Winestate Magazine May June 2010

MAY/JUNE 2010 WINESTATE VOL 33 ISSUE 3 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDESWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDS ADELAIDE HILLS TASMANIA CENTRAL & WESTERN NSW NELSON & WAIRARAPA, NZ best of the west 532 tasted merlot sushi &The Bordeaux blender meets Shiraz FILM FERMENT Sweet Talk wines dirty Scott Hicks & Kerry Heysen's little secret Wine AdventurePRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 May/June 2010 BATTLING THE KIWI ‘SAVALANCHE' Vol 33 Issue 3 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) UK £3.95 NZ $10.95 plusCentral & Western NSW • Tasmania • Adelaide Hills • Nelson & Wairarapa, NZ

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NO.234 MAY/JUNE 2010 One sGahloolotidtisEditor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] takes!Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] A bad bottle shot can undo all the good workSub-editor Mike Jaensch that goes into the passionate making andAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] branding of a bottle of wine.Art Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] At Wellcom, we have provenMarketing Coordinator Sue Lumb E-mail: [email protected] expertise to shoot your wine andPrinting DAI Rubicon deliver premium imagery that willWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] suit all applications.CONTRIBUTORSNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley Our highly skilled and experienedSouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Graeme Andrews, Valmai Hankel photographers and graphic artistsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod Properjohn use only state-of-the-art digitalQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel technology to ensure that yourNew Zealand Michael CooperNational Travel Winsor Dobbin wines get our best shot.USA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW Call us now to ensure thatASIA Denis Gaston the combined efforts of yourADVERTISING SALES team, from viticulturists toAustralia, New Zealand & International winemakers to marketersPeter Jackson, Winestate Publications are not shot to pieces byPhone: (08) 8357 9277 Mob: 0457 834 880 E-mail: [email protected] below average imagery.Trade & Advertising website www.winestate.info As we say, all it takesNSW, South Australia & Victoria is one top shot!Winestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277 So shoot us anE-mail: [email protected] email, or dial in theJaye Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] phone number.Western AustraliaJamie O’Keeffe - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766 At Wellcom we also specialise in theWINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] production of a wide range of communicationDISTRIBUTORS and promotional mediaAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/L including graphicNew Zealand design, catalogues,Independent Magazine Distributors banners, annual reports,International posters, newsletters,DAI RubiconHong Kong & China brochures, TVCEverwise Wine Limited production andUK corporate videos.ComagBRAZIL 43 Fullarton Road, Kent Town SA. 5067Walker Distribution phone +61 8 8362 1077 fax +61 8 8363 2488USASource Interlink International [email protected] is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2010 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au Wellcom_67x274.indd 1 18/12/08 3:51:47 PM

contentsMAY/JUNE 2010FEATURES R E G U L A R S30 The distinctively different 8 Briefs Wairarapa and Nelson 15 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper With a plethora of small wineries 16 European Report with Sally Easton in two regions separated by Cook 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Strait, Nelson and the Wairarapa 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King are building on their strengths while 22 Wine History with Valmai Hankel tackling a few problems. Michael 51 Grapevine Cooper examines the pros and cons of these near-neighbours.32 West Australian winemakers battle 42 56 Wine Words the savvy flood 81 Subscription Form Inexpensive New Zealand sauvignon 42 Sushi meets shiraz in a 83 How We Judge blanc is battering their prestigious marriage of cultures 84 What’s it Worth? signature wines in the marketplace, A quarter of a century after an 87 Wine Investment & Collecting so Western Australia has launched historic matching of Australian wine 1 70 Aftertaste a counter-attack led by Howard and Japanese food in Tokyo, a Park principal Jeff Burch, as Mike repeat performance produced some 59 Winter Beers, New Releases Zekulich explains. fascinating taste duets, writes Denis and Top 40 Best Buys under $20. Gastin, who was present at both events.36 Why sugar in wine is 48 unfashionably popular 46 A classic Bordeaux blender and “People talk dry but drink sweet.” its willing accomplices W I N E TAST I N G S That’s a famous expression in the It might have its detractors, but wine industry, writes Andrew Corrigan, merlot has a long and illustrious who explains the intricacies of sugar record of producing superb wines in making wines, from rieslings to in France, Italy and the New World. ‘stickies’ and, surprisingly, even reds. Andrew Corrigan introduces this grape and profiles four of its regular38 Filmmakers heading for a new kind blending “bedfellows”. of stardom - with wine Sharing a passion for wine and 48 Seeking answers to questions the environment, the celebrated of survival filmmaking team of Scott Hicks and With the wine industry worldwide Kerry Heysen are making their mark facing challenges ranging from with some outstanding results from the global financial crisis to the their property in the Adelaide Hills, environment, d’Arenberg winemaker writes Joy Walterfang. Chester Osborn analyses the 2009 Wine Future Rioja conference in the first article of a two-part series. Winestate Magazine 98 Western Australia Issue Number 234 116 Central & Western NSW May/June 2010 124 Merlot & Bordeaux Varietals 130 Adelaide Hills Cover photograph 136 Tasmania © Ina Peters. 141 Sweet & Fortifieds 148 Nelson & Wairarapa, NZ 153 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases

TheHEDONIST by Walter Clappiso6 ShirazJames Halliday 93 points!This famous winecrops up in all thebest places...Poured on British Airways Business ClassHas been served at the table of Sachin Tendulkar,one of the best batsman who ever livedNobu, Mayfair (UK)Nobu, New York (USA)Blue Hill, New York (USA) - Where PresidentObama had his Inauguration DinnerRetailersFassina Liquor (SA)Cellarbrations – Tappy’s at The Hub (SA)Cellarbrations Blackwood (SA)St Peter’s Cellars (SA)The Arkaba (SA)Ocean Grove Cellars (Vic)Cloud Wine Cellars (Vic)Best Cellars (NSW)IGA Ainslie (ACT)Waitrose (UK)www.hedonistwines.com.auPh: +61 8 8323 8818



editorialT H I S I S S U E I S A B O U T little brothers and big brothers. We have always had a great friendly rivalry between Australia andNew Zealand, particularly on the sports field. This has now extendedinto the wine field, where Kiwi sauvignon blancs are now the leadingwhite wines, in sales terms, in Australia and Australia has become theleading export market for New Zealand. This has not gone unnoticed, and Western Australian wineries inparticular have been affected with their so-called ‘Classic’ whites takinga hammering along with Aussie chardonnays. With both countrieshaving a considerable oversupply of fruit, there is a ‘fight to the bottom’,encouraged by the big supermarket chains, which boast that no matterhow low a rival goes, they can go even lower! (Interestingly, the questionof quality is rarely mentioned). In this issue Mike Zekulich reports on a fightback by a group ofMargaret River producers who are organising a marketing campaignto stem the Kiwi ‘savalanche’. Howard Park wines principal Jeff Burchdoesn’t mind fair competition but claims that New Zealand sauvignonblanc is now being sold on the Australian market below the cost ofproduction. “That is clearly dumping,” he says. “It’s a political timebomb for me because most big wine companies have interests in New Zealand and no one wants to shake thetree.” In shades of the Air New Zealand takeover, and ultimately the stripping of the Ansett franchise, he saysthat while overproduction in Australia has left producers with “a headache after the big party”, the same couldhappen in New Zealand. “They are continuing to plant and, with their high production costs, they will ultimatelycome to grief. In the meantime, while they are destroying themselves, they will severely damage the Australianmarket.” Apparently brotherly love goes only so far! In the red wine sphere we feature our annual tasting of merlot and associated Bordeaux blend varietals. Merlotis often regarded as the little brother of the predominant cabernet sauvignon variety, which makes up this famousblend. Usually, this involves cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and sometimes malbec(popular in previous centuries but less so now). Somewhat disparaged lately (particularly, after the American movie Sideways) and with Wolf Blass calling it a“weed” after presenting the Winestate Merlot Trophy to a rather startled winner at our 2008 awards, merlot canbe ordinary (like some of the high-volume Davis University clones), but it also can be great. As francophiles know, the Bordeaux Left Bank is predominantly big brother cabernet sauvignon, while the RightBank of St Emilion and Pomerol leans more to little brother merlot and cabernet franc as the main components.Regular columnist Andrew Corrigan reports on the glories of merlot and says that it is not without coincidencethat two of the world’s most expensive wines, Petrus and Le Pin, are merlot-based. Moving away from family ties (and squabbles) we also have for your interest a massive tasting of 500 WesternAustralia regional wines, a cool climate smorgasbord of wonderful wines from Tasmania, Adelaide Hills andCentral and Western NSW. And, of course, Michael Cooper, our New Zealand editor, brings you the best ofNew Zealand in each issue. Lots to like and lots to enjoy!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherMay/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 7

briefsSTILL FAITHFUL AFTER 150 YEARS Hayley Purbrick, the latest family member to enter the business, starts this year in the marketing department. One of her first jobsTAHBILK winery has always represented stability and reliability in will be to promote the 150th anniversary wine pack featuring threea world of change. It has passionately maintained its Nagambie wines labelled in old Tahbilk livery: 1949 Vines 2000 Cabernetvineyards that include some of the oldest, if not the oldest, shiraz Sauvignon, 1933 Vines 2000 Shiraz and 1927 Vines 1999 Marsanne.vines in the world. It has preserved winemaking traditions that dateback to the 1930s. Even the Central Victorian company’s labels LICENCE JOLT TO SMALL WINEMAKERSretain the original Tahbilk stamp. Now in its 150th year and with thearrival of a new generation at the winery, might we expect to see at THE BRUMBY Government’s crackdown on alcohol abuse has seenleast a modicum of change? Following the dictum that if it ain’t broke, tough new liquor licensing laws introduced in Victoria. While late nightwhy fix it, the Purbrick family, the ‘custodians’ at Tahbilk, will launch venues have been targeted with heavier licence fees and restrictionsa series of dinners and tastings to celebrate the milestone. The first in trading, the changes have also affected small wine producersbig tasting of the year was held at the winery in February, with wines and more unlikely candidates such as bed and breakfast operators.dating back to 1956 and the early ’60s through to the current releases. The cost of a temporary licence has risen from $27.70 to $90.50, The red winemaking philosophy, laid down by Eric Purbrick in the provoking anger from the state’s smallest makers, who sell much of1930s, which has seen a succession of Tahbilk winemakers pursue their production through farmers’ markets and need a licence each timered wines medium in body and modest in alcohol, has produced they attend a market. Attendance at a major wine festival (attractingextraordinary age-ability across shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. 5000 people or more) could set some producers back by almost $800.The tasting revealed that despite the widespread appreciation ofpremium wines like the 1860 Vines shiraz and the new series of And since January 1 all licence holders have also been requiredESP shiraz and cabernets (named after Eric Stevens Purbrick), it to designate and monitor a red line around the area in which theiris the standard $19 everyday reds (and $15 marsanne) that offer wine will be sold and consumed. Stallholders at farmers’ markets,extraordinary value for money and also age a treat. producers who offer picnics in their vineyards and operators of B&Bs - who often provide a complimentary bottle of wine to guests - say theThree generations John, Hayley & Alister Purbrick. red line rule will be counter-productive to the state’s winery tourism. ”I do not believe that wineries are considered to be contributing to anti-social behaviour through the operation of their cellar doors, nor from participating in farmers’ markets,” says Chris Pfeiffer, chairman of the Victorian Wine Industry Association and co-founder of Pfeiffer Wines in Rutherglen. “The fallout for wineries is that off-site events become more difficult to participate in, which will have an impact on regional tourism.” He says the fee increase has forced his family, like others in the industry, to review the value of participating in some of the local markets it attends.8 tomichwWineIsN.indEdS1TAT E May/June 2010 Tomich Wines - Passion from the land to the bottle, our award winning wines are 100% estate grown from our cool climate vineyard in the Adelaide Hills. Visit our tasting room at 87 King William Road, Unley SA Proudly distributed nationally SA - Festival City Wines & Spirits 08 8349 1200 VIC - In Wine 03 9426 9000 NSW - In Wine 02 9699 6800 QLD - In Wine 0410 679 410 WA - In Wine 0407 471 588 Alice Springs - Wine Club Nick Hill 08 8952 3597 Brand Manager - Troy Smedley 0403 715 217 www.tomich.com.au 22/9/09 9:56:10 PM

briefs A volumetric tax would increase the price of a $14 cask to $31.07 and the negative flow-on to sales would be felt by growers not only in the Murray Valley but other inland wine areas like the Riverland in SA and Riverina in NSW. Under a proposed volumetric tax, an $8 bottle of wine would cost $10. The only group happy under a different tax regime would be producers in the premium market, where a $30 wine would drop in price to $27.53, thus stimulating sales.SMOKY CONFRONTS A TAX STORM NINTENDO HUNTS WINE LABELSLONG-TIME Constellation winemaker Peter ‘Smoky’ Dawson is the NINTENDO, the world’s biggest computer games producer,new chairman of the Australian Wine Research Institute board. Peter has Australian winemakers in its sights. The company hasenjoyed a celebrated career, first with Houghton Wines and then approached a number of Australian wineries, requesting they signas chief group winemaker with Hardys (now Constellation Wines), over the copyright of wine labels to be featured in a new game it istwice winning the International Red Winemaker of the Year award. developing in conjunction with British wine writer Jancis Robinson. Following his appointment to the AWRI, he called on researchers The legal wording in the request worries winemakers andto “get into the trenches” with wine producers to work out solutions legal experts. Wedgetail Estate in the Yarra Valley receivedto industry problems. “Organisations that service the industry have documentation in February through Robinson’s office in whichan obligation to ensure they deliver tangible benefits,” he said. owner/winemaker Guy Lamothe was asked to sign over the copyright for “all types of uses” without any limitation, for As the Federal Government digests the Henry Taxation Review “an indefinite period”. The document also allows Robinson toand considers changing the way wine is taxed, grapegrowers in assign copyright to a third party, Nintendo, effectively givingthe Murray Valley are reflecting on a potentially bleak future. the company carte blanche use. Should the government be tempted to change from a value-based Intellectual property lawyers say that under such an agreementtax (ad valorem) to an excise on alcohol content (volumetric), at least it would be possible for Nintendo, if it so wished, to bottle its own15 per cent of the valley’s wine production could be in jeopardy. wine and use the label. An excise tax would affect all prices but would be particularly Robinson denied that producers would lose copyright and saiddiscriminatory against cask wine - which accounts for 15 per cent she was responding to a request from lawyers for Nintendo.of the valley’s production. “That’s around 50,000 tonnes that would While the company won’t reveal the nature of the new game,be under threat because of the anticipated consumer backlash it is believed to be along the lines of a prototype launched inshould the price of cask wine more than double,” says Murray Japan in 2007 that acts as a wine primer, dispensing informationValley Winegrowers chief executive Mike Stone. and recommendations. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsFINE DINING FOR A SELECT FEW WINDOWRIE’S NEW FACETOWER Lodge, the boutique hotel adjacent to Tower Estate in the ANTHONY D’Onise, the new winemaker at Cowra’s WindowrieHunter Valley, has opened NINE, a new restaurant it hopes will Estate, arrived at the winery along with the first of the 2010 fruit,become known as one of the country’s signature eateries - although it leaving him little time to unpack. Anthony joined Windowrie fromis currently open only on Friday and Saturday evenings. NINE can seat Charles Sturt University Wines in Wagga Wagga and has workedonly 16 guests at any one time, ensuring the highest level of service vintages in Hungary and at Le Chablisienne in Chablis. Withinand attention to detail, says general manager Andreas Breitfuss. Australia, he has worked with Orlando in the Barossa Valley, Petaluma in the Adelaide Hills and Smithbrook in Pemberton, He says the dining experience will be extended to a range Western Australia.of unique locations around the lodge. “During a ‘soft’ openingperiod, the feedback we have received has been remarkable, “It’s an exciting time at Windowrie, and I’m looking forward towhich convinces me that we will indeed achieve our goal of being getting involved,” he says. “Windowrie is a family company thatrecognised as one of Australia’s leading restaurants.” has been evolving and building its quality credentials over the past few years. Working closely with other boutique winemakers Executive chef Daniel Hunt is creating seasonal degustation in the region from both a winemaking and marketing perspectivemenus using Hunter Valley produce wherever possible. These is also exciting. Windowrie offers a range of opportunities,dinners cost $180 a person, with wines available by the bottle or including sourcing fruit from outside of Cowra. We are activelymatched with a variety of Tower Estate wines. working with growers in Mudgee and Orange, as well as making a range of organic wines.” The restaurant’s name reflects the fact that Tower Lodge, thebrainchild of the late Len Evans, has been operating for nine years. THAI FOOD’SThe hotel was recently accepted as a member of the exclusive WINE MASTERRelais & Chateaux group. POP your head into theSIPPING FOR SLIMMERS cellar of the Arun Thai restaurant in Sydney’s McWILLIAM’S is the first winery in Potts Point and you are Australia to have a range endorsed immediately surrounded by Weight Watchers. The slimming by thousands of great group has backed McWilliam’s wines - piled high, many Balance range of lower-alcohol of them still in their boxes. wines, which includes a semillon Owner and chef Kham sauvignon blanc blend and a shiraz. Signavong is a huge fan of matching his authentic spicy food A 150ml glass of Balance wine with wines from around the world - hence wines like Mucadet is equal to one Weight Watchers sur lie, a Salomon Undhof Riesling or a Vouvray. point, making it easy for people on the program to keep track of their Kham grew up on the banks of the Mekong River in the kilojoule intake. More than 1.8 million Isaan province of northern Thailand, and is one of Sydney’s people follow the Weight Watchers most experienced Thai restaurateurs. He recently opened program in Australia each year. another restaurant in Hong Kong. In his new book, Khan Sai Mae Nam, he shares 80 of his favourite recipes, some of them “It’s fulfilling to know that we’re quite easy to replicate, others a little more demanding. This giving people who like to enjoy is a fascinating journey into the cultural and geographical a glass of wine a lower kilojoule influences that have helped shape many of the Thai dishes and lower alcohol option,” says that are so widely popular today - and Kham also shares someMcWilliam’s winemaker Jim Brayne. The Balance range, retailing of his wine tips with readers.at a recommended $16.99, contains 8.5 per cent alcohol, makingit one third lower in alcohol and kilojoules than regular table wine. “Wines with good acidity are a good match for spicy food and those with moderate acidity made from cool-climate fruit are best of all,” he writes. He suggests matching Howard Park Riesling, for instance, with Thai lobster, steamed fish and scallops, while the Dowie Doole Chenin Blanc is recommended for oyster, scallop and some chicken dishes. Sai Mae Nam is available for $49.95 from selected independent bookshops, via www.bluecockatoo.com.au/books/kham’s, the Essential Ingredient, Sydney, or The Cookery Book (www.cookerybook.com.au).10 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

briefsITALIAN SCHOLARSHIP WINNER LEGEND REACHES MILESTONEGALLI Estate Winery has named Jeannette Clarke, the wine buyer HUNTER Valley iconand manager at inner-city Melbourne bar La Vita Buona, as winner Karl Stockhausenof the L’Erudito 2010: The Lorenzo Galli Scholarship, which carries celebrated his 80tha prize of a $10,000 trip to Italy. birthday on the eve of the 2010 vintage Funded by Galli Estate Winery, L’Erudito is an initiative to help educate at a private cocktailthe next generation about Italian-style wines. The program consists of party for industrya written component and a two-day masterclass led by eminent Italian colleagues andwine expert Michael Trembath, wine writer Jane Faulkner and The Wine friends at Briar RidgeGuide’s Dan Sims, with support from leading wine identities such as Vineyard. A German-winemakers Fred and Joel Pizzini and writer Max Allen. born, post-war immigrant, Karl has had key roles in some of the country’s leading wine companies, and has worked well over 50 The scholarship was established in 2009 by Galli Estate owner Pamela vintages in different regions across the country.Galli, in honour of her late husband, Lorenzo Galli, founder of the winery. He has made some of Australia’s greatest and most sought-afterRIVERINA’S TOP CITIZEN wines, most notably the 1965 Lindeman’s Bin 3110 Hunter River Burgundy, which recently sold at auction for $1700 a bottle. WorkingBILL Calabria of Westend Estate wines has been named Riverina alongside Briar Ridge winemaker Mark Woods, he still plays an activecitizen of the year for his tireless community work, including role at the winery, and oversees the production of his Signature range,raising more than $500,000 over seven years through Country specialising in Hunter Valley semillon, chardonnay and shiraz.Hope events and establishing the Westend Estate Foundation tosupport disadvantaged local families. Griffith mayor Mike Neville Karl was one of the six inaugural recipients of the Hunter Valleydescribed Bill as “not only a great volunteer, but a champion Wine Industry’s Legends awards. Briar Ridge Vineyard owneras a bloke as well as a businessman”. The Calabria family was John Davis said Karl had not only made a significant impact fromnamed NSW Family Business of the Year and Exporter of the a winemaker’s perspective but had become a great ambassadorYear at the NSW Business Awards in late November. for the industry.NEW WARNING TO CASSEGRAIN’S NEW MENUSMALL GROWERS JOHN Cassegrain recently took over the restaurant at hisNEIL McGuigan, chief winemaker Cassegrain winery in Port Macquarie and has introduced a newfor the Australian Vintage group, menu with the focus firmly on local produce. With a fresh approachhas echoed warnings from Peter to French cuisine, executive chef Patrick Bowen has introducedLehmann and John Casella three dining options: a la carte, a fast-track lunch menu and aof Yellow Tail that many small lunch degustation to be enjoyed at a more relaxed pace withgrowers face extinction in areas accompanying wine matching.like the Riverland and Riverina.Neil, who was named International The restaurant boasts full glass frontage and a large outdoorWinemaker of the Year at the International Wine and Spirits deck overlooking the picturesque winery vines, extensive roseCompetition in London last year, says: “It is obvious there are too gardens, tree-lined avenues, formal gardens and a serenemany grapes out there. Unfortunately it may take a couple more years lily pond. Raging River Wagyu beef, Hastings Valley haloumi,of fruit remaining unsold, and grapes being dropped on the ground, Ricardo’s tomatoes, Macleay Valley rabbit, Clover Hills meat,for the message to get home. oysters and fresh local fish of the day are all regulars on the menu, and Cassegrain wines are sold at cellar door prices with “If growers can’t sell grapes this year they certainly won’t be a minimal $1 per bottle corkage fee.able to sell them next year, so many small growers who don’thave contracts locked in are in big trouble. You need to have anefficient vineyard so you can sell grapes at a price that enablesthe wine companies to produce wines that they can sell overseas.” One grower had told him he believed growers needed 250 to 300acres of vines to make a living. “You have to be large and efficient,or else produce something extraordinary, or different. There has tobe a question about how long many of them can go on. Cutting anumber of our contracts, as we had to last year, was devastating.We have great empathy with growers, and are grapegrowersourselves, but it just had to be done for the good of the company.” May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsHUNTER FESTIVITIES BEGIN TALTARNI’S GREEN REWARDTHE LOVEDALE Long Lunch TALTARNI - a pioneer of Victoria’s Pyrenees wine industry - hason May 15-16 kicks off a range been rewarded for its commitment to the sustainability of theof Hunter Valley wine and environment and the local economy with a $100,000 grant from thefood events throughout the Victorian Government to help fund a new grape receiving systemyear. Hunter Valley Wine and and trade waste effluent treatment plant.Food Month runs throughoutJune and guests will sharpen Taltarni CEO Loic Le Calvez led the submission to enable thetheir culinary skills as they winery to be an industry leader in water management and allowparticipate in masterclasses, Taltarni’s growing sparkling wine production facility to create newlearning cheesemaking and job opportunities. “Taltarni has been committed to this region sincewine and food matching. For 1972, and we are proud to be an active centre of employment,”more information visit www. he says. “We have made major investments in recent years, whichhunterwineandfood.com.au. have translated into more jobs and made us one of the leading sparkling wineries in Australia. It is a community effort, and we Hunter Valley Semillon & want the entire region to benefit.”Seafood weekend has beenswitched from April to the NEW LOOK FOR BROWNSweekend of October 8-10 to coincide with the release of thevalley’s 2010 semillons. The Main Event on October 9 will feature THERE’s a new look to the wines produced by Browns ofmasterclasses with Peter Bourne and cooking shows with Padthaway - with new labels replacing the old, dated ones andmajor surprise guests. Special semillon dinners, lunches and relabelled older vintages still in stock. Partner Sue Brown describesmaster classes will be on throughout the weekend. See www. the changes as “a mini relaunch after 15 years of winemaking”.huntersemillonandseafood.com.au The launch coincides with a new chardonnay the Brown family hopes will help bring consumers back to the variety. “Chardonnay Hunter Uncorked at Balmoral in Sydney is scheduled for and Padthaway go together,” says Sue. “It’s a hero variety for theNovember 7. More than 30 wineries and restaurants will star, region and a wine Australia has done well for a long time.” Thewith live jazz bands and local artists displaying their work on the 2007 Melba Lillian Chardonnay is made from the oldest chardonnaypromenade. See www.hunteruncorked.com.au vines in Padthaway.BARONS FROCK UP AGAIN CHEF ADVANCES TO RETREATDECLARATION of vintage was declared in the Barossa as the YOUNG chef Rebecca Stubbs has joined McLaren Vale’s Chapel Hillceremonial Barons gathered again to bless the vintage and wines as executive chef at the Retreat. She cooked for three years withfurther the “glory of the Barossa”. This year’s Barossa Winemaker Le Tu Thai at the Bridgewater Mill and was most recently at Chloe’sof the Year is Wayne Dutschke, with Robert Seelander named with the 2009 South Australian chef of the year Johnny Triscari.Vigneron of the Year. Late Baron, Galvin John, was honouredwith a bronze footpath plaque. The vintage forecast was read by Joining Chapel Hill gives Rebecca the opportunity to pursue andYalumba’s Baron, Louisa Rose, who reported that after healthy develop her passion for food and wine, says CEO Marc Allgrove.winter rains and a warm November, resulting in some fruit setloss, ongoing warm days and cool nights would result in an Chapel Hill’s cooking classes will continue under her guidance andexcellent vintage, producing “wines of great quality, personality unique offerings will be developed for the cellar door and gallery.and variety expression”. Rebecca says she is looking forward to exploring McLaren Vale, from the coast to the hills. “It not only produces great wine, but the seafood, olives, cheese, and much, much more provides me with a unique opportunity to develop and offer a truly regional experience.” ISLAND’S TASTY WEEKENDS HAMILTON Island on the Great Barrier Reef is expanding its program of food and wine weekends it calls Great Barrier Feasts. Leading Sydney chef Tetsuya Wakuda launched the 2009 series in March, alongside wine critic James Halliday. Further Chef’s Table weekends will be held in July and November, aimed at showcasing the finest food and wine in a world-class setting. Luxury packages are being offered for the gourmet weekends and guests can choose between accommodation at the premier luxury resort of qualia or the five-star Beach Club. Phone 1300 780 959.12 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

briefsCONVENT CHANGES HANDS WHITE VARIETY’S GREAT DOUBLETHE 100-YEAR-OLD SAVAGNIN is great, says Barossa winemaker Joanne Irvine, whosePeppers Convent 2008 Irvine Wines Savignin won the trophy for best white wine at theRetreat in the Hunter 2008 Barossa Regional Wine Show, with her 2007 savagnin runner-Valley has new up and a gold medal winner. “The wine media has painted thisowners. The property, variety unfairly as somewhat lesser quality than the albarino varietya great favourite with from Spain,” Joanne says. Originally growers planted what theywine lovers, has been thought were albarino clones, only to discover they were incorrectlypurchased by the identified, and were in fact savagnin, a less well-known variety.Cowley family, whoown Tower Estate, Growers are discussing a class action against the CSIRO becauseTower Lodge and Roberts Restaurant in the Hunter Valley. It of the considerable costs involved in revising the packaging andwill remain part of the Peppers group under a new long-term marketing involved with the name change.marketing service agreement. Peppers Group general managerTomas Johnsson says the retreat is central to the Peppers brand SAVOUR’S SPANISH COUPphilosophy “and we are delighted to work with the Cowley family”.The property is adjacent to the Pepper Tree winery. LEADING Spanish chef Paco Roncero, who worked under Ferran Adria for three years at the acclaimed el Bulli and is now executiveCASCADE’S chef at the Michelin-starred La Terazza del Casino in Madrid, has beenVINTAGE ALE signed as the star guest for the second annual Savour Tasmania food and wine festival. The festival will run from May 27-30 in Hobart andIT’S USUAL for wines then from June 4-6 in Burnie and Launceston, with other star chefsto be released with a including Alvin Leung from Hong Kong and Martin Bosley from Newvintage on the label, Zealand, along with Adelaide’s Simon Bryant and Maggie Beer.but most unusual tofind vintage beers. An Several lunches and dinners at iconic locations will highlight theexception to the rule is best of Tasmania’s wines and produce, and showcase some of theCascade First Harvest state’s outstanding wine producers. See www.savourtasmania.com.Ale, which is made from the first of the season’s fresh hops, pickedat Bushy Park, north-west of Hobart, in March and then fermented POLO TRAGEDYuntil the beer’s release in May. JAMES Ashton, founder of the Three different varieties of hops are used each vintage by brewer Max Millamolong Estate vineyardBurslem, creating vintage variation and interest. Although the beers outside Orange and a leading poloare recommended for consumption within nine months, they actually official, died after a fall sustaineddrink well for two or three years despite containing no preservatives. during a polo match in Thailand on February 14. He was 69. James was The 4800 cartons of 2010 Cascade First Harvest Ale will be released visiting the Asian nation in his newnationally in early May and cost $24 a six-pack. First Harvest will also role as president of the Internationalbe available on tap at the Cascade Visitors Centre in South Hobart. Federation of Polo (FIP). He was a successful grazier, horse breederCOONAWARRA ON THE ROAD AGAIN and horseman and ran farmstay country accommodation and a coolTHE much-travelled winemakers of Coonawarra are gearing up climate vineyard.for their annual trek around the nation showing off their latest andgreatest releases. The Coonawarra Road Show will visit six different LISA’S NEW MISSIONcities, offering wine lovers the opportunity to both taste the brandsand meet the personalities behind them. LISA McGuigan, founder of Tempus Two and a member of one of Australia’s most famous winemaking families, has joined Poole’s Dates are: Brisbane, August 16 at Vino’s Restaurant & Bar; Rock Wines, the Hunter Valley family enterprise founded in 1988Sydney, August 17 at The Menzies Hotel; Canberra, August 18 at by businessman David Clarke. As the newly appointed generalUniversity House, Acton; Melbourne, August 19 at Melbourne Town manager for sales and marketing, Lisa takes a global role inHall; Adelaide, August 23 at The Sebel Playford; and Perth, August promoting the three brands in the Poole’s Rock Wines portfolio -25 at Perth Town Hall. This year marks the eighth Coonawarra Road Poole’s Rock, Cockfighter’s Ghost and Firestick. “The opportunityShow and guests are promised the chance to taste over 100 wines, to grow the worldwide sales of the three Poole’s Rock Wines brandwith entry just $25. For full details call the Coonawarra Vignerons portfolios is both a challenge and a privilege, as is the chance toAssociation on (08) 8737 2392 or visit www.coonawarra.org. participate in another dynamic family-run wine company,” she says. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 13

nzbriefsSINGLE-MINDED WINERIES UNITE AUCKLAND VINEYARDS RETREATFIVE small wineries have WINEGROWING districts north and south of Auckland city haveformed a new marketing recently reported planting cutbacks. In south Auckland, thealliance, Specialist Clevedon area’s largest vineyard, Vin Alto, has been uprooted. TheWinegrowers of New Zealand. 10ha vineyard at one stage had reputedly the largest collection“We are true specialists,” of Italian grape varieties and clones in the southern hemisphere,says Nick Nobilo, of and was later planted principally in pinot gris.Vinoptima, “intent on makingthe very best wine from our At Matakana, north of Auckland, the 2010 crop at one of theone chosen variety or style, biggest vineyards will not be harvested. And a small, upmarketwhich has led each of us Matakana producer has uprooted 90 per cent of its vineyard,to a level of dedication that planted in syrah, after discovering it could buy grapes of a similarborders on the obsessive.” high quality, at much lower cost, from Hawke’s Bay. The group includes three producers who focus on a single NEW CHIEFgrape variety - Vinoptima, a Gisborne-based gewurztraminer JOINS TOHUspecialist; The Hay Paddock, committed to syrah grown onWaiheke Island; and Wooing Tree, acclaimed for its dark, AFTER a 10-year spell atflavour-crammed Central Otago pinot noirs. The two producers Waimea Estates, one ofspecialising in a single style are Destiny Bay, also on Waiheke Nelson’s largest wineries,Island, a source of distinguished Bordeaux-style reds; and No1 where he was generalFamily Estate in Marlborough, New Zealand’s only sparkling wine manager and winemaker,specialist, owned by the Le Brun family. The group believes NZ Mike Brown has joined Tohuwinemakers should work harder to escape the commodity trap. as CEO. While he was at Waimea Estate, his wines - “New Zealand has achieved recognition for producing especially pinot gris - enjoyed outstanding show success and alsodrinkable white wines [from sauvignon blanc] at affordable earned a reputation for top value. Tohu (pronounced ‘Tor-who’),prices,” says Steve Farquharson, co-founder of Wooing Tree, which owns vineyards in Marlborough, Nelson and Gisborne, is“but has no standing in the fine-wine market - which is where, New Zealand’s first wholly Maori-owned wine company.as one of the world’s smallest producers, we should be aiming.”SAUVIGNON BLANC SIGHTS RAISED VINTAGE FORECAST SLIGHTLY DOWN“ON BOTH price and ageability, we’ve never really done all we FOLLOWING the bumper 2008 and 2009 harvests, New Zealandcan with New Zealand sauvignon blanc,” says Patrick Materman, Winegrowers has predicted a slightly reduced 2010 vintage. Therecently appointed chief winemaker of Pernod Ricard NZ. The 2009 grape crop of 285,000 tonnes was identical to the massivecompany, formerly known as Montana, recently announced a 2008 harvest, which was a 39 per cent leap on the previousproject to create a Marlborough sauvignon blanc that “matures record. For 2010, the forecast is for 265,000 to 285,000 tonnes,well and sets a new benchmark for quality”. to be harvested from 33,000 hectares of bearing vineyards (up 2,000 hectares on 2009). Don’t expect a flashy, drink-young style. “The aim is to make theopposite of a big, fruit bomb sauvignon blanc that tastes impressive After the country’s coolest October for over 25 years, in mostand explosive initially, then falls over faster in the bottle than the more regions harvest is expected to be two to three weeks later thanrestrained sauvignon styles,” Patrick told the New Zealand Herald. usual. At Dry River winery, in Martinborough, where the vines’The project, originated by Patrick and his predecessor, Jeff Clarke flowering was delayed by two weeks, “November through to- rather than the company’s marketing staff - also involves input January was likewise very cold”. January was wet in many regions,from Denis Dubourdieu, a long-serving professor of oenology at the but February was generally slightly warmer and markedly drierUniversity of Bordeaux and an authority on the ageing of white wines. than normal. The first trial batch of the new super-sauvignon, about 10 cases, In Marlborough, the harvest began on March 9 with hand-was made in 2009 from 14 vineyard sites and over 40 blending picking of pinot noir grapes for bottle-fermented bubbly. Here,components. Commercial production kicks off from the 2010 vintage, too, the expected late ripening was attributed almost entirely tobut the wine will not be released until mid-2012. Patrick says its price the abnormally low temperatures in October, which significantlyhas not yet been settled, but “has not been seen before”. delayed flowering.14 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERGREEN TIDE TURNING IN CAMPAIGN AGAINST CHEMICALS NEW ZEALAND wine has been promoted insects that prey on insect ‘pests’. At the on fungicide, apart from a little sulphur.around the world as “the riches of a clean, winery, control of wastewater disposal, Nothing at all on herbicide or fertiliser.”green land.” Yet about $1000 worth of process aids and spills are also audited.fungicides, herbicides and insecticides are BioGro is New Zealand’s key certifierapplied to each hectare of New Zealand’s However, most producers, baulking at the of organic producers and the only onevineyards every year, according to Steve paperwork, were reluctant to join the scheme, with a specific standard for viticulture andWratten, professor of ecology at Lincoln leading their own industry body to crack winemaking. The ranks of BioGro-certifiedUniversity, near Christchurch. the whip. From the 2010 vintage onwards, wine producers include Babich, Kawarau all wines in promotional events run by NZ Estate, Millton, Partington, Richmond Concerns on this score surfaced in the Winegrowers (such as export campaigns Plains, Savvy, Seresin, Sunset Valley, Twoearly 1990s. Pernod Ricard NZ (formerly and the Air New Zealand Wine Awards) Gates, Vidal and Vynfields. Others are onMontana) has admitted that “a number of must be produced under an independently the verge of their first releases. Look for thethen common viticultural practices were audited sustainability programme. BioGro logo on the label.neither environmentally sustainable nornecessarily serving the best interests But pressure is mounting on wineries Some producers argue that chemical-freeof vineyard workers, surrounding to take sustainability more seriously. In vineyard management involves increasedcommunities, and the burgeoning number 2007, the Soil and Health Association use of tractors for routine tasks, such asof spray-wary, environmentally conscious of NZ slammed the industry’s use weeding, and so more carbon emissions.wine consumers.” of herbicide sprays and challenged But the trend is clear. Membership of Organic Sustainable Winegrowing to “lift its Winegrowers New Zealand has soared in the past two years, from eight to over 100.I spend virtually nothing on fungicide, apart from a There is also growing interest inlittle sulphur. Nothing at all on herbicide or fertilizer. biodynamics, founded on the belief that cosmic rhythms have a profound influence Vines were sprayed fortnightly, game”. Major overseas retailers, led on the soil, plant and animal life. Leadingregardless of any insect or disease by supermarket chains in the UK, are advocates include Millton, Nick Mills ofthreats. “There was not a weed in sight,” demanding that growers be able to Rippon Vineyard in Central Otago, andrecalls Kate Radburnd, of C.J. Pask winery demonstrate to their customers that Marlborough viticultural consultant Bartin Hawke’s Bay. “The vineyard was a their wines do not harm the environment Arnst, formerly of Seresin.picture of vines and bare earth.” where they were produced. Bart believes winegrowers are finally The industry’s much-publicised Interest in organic viticulture is currently starting to adopt greener methods.Sustainable Winegrowing programme, soaring. Less than two per cent of the “Biodynamics can freak people out … butlaunched before the 2000 vintage, was vineyard area is certified organic or in to the Germans and French it is nothingbased on “environmental soundness”, conversion to organic, but last year, 240 new at all. Their culture widely accepts“social responsibility” and “economic people attended the country’s inaugural it. Many of our younger winemakers areviability” guidelines. Resulting in a Organic Wine Future conference. working overseas and there is commitmentsignificant reduction in chemical use, and courage to change things here now.”it has been described by Doug Bell, a James and Annie Millton’s vineyardprominent Gisborne viticulturist, as “an at Gisborne was New Zealand’s first to At the industry-run Air NZ Wine Awards,easily achieved middle ground between be certified organic, in 1986. Richmond ‘sustainably-produced’ wines nowcommercial and organic growing”. Plains, in Nelson, later produced New compete for ‘pure’ medals - Pure Gold, Zealand’s first organically certified Pure Silver – and a Champion Sustainable Vineyard workers monitor the plants sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. Wine Trophy. For Philip Gregan, CEO ofweekly for signs of insects and disease, NZ Winegrowers, sustainability has nowspraying only at certain thresholds. Is organic viticulture economically viable? become “a key strategic issue”.Wildflowers, buckwheat and other plants According to James Millton, his labourimprove the soil’s organic matter and costs for managing the vineyards are Bart Arnst agrees: “We should be steadilystructure, while attracting ‘beneficial’ higher, but overall he saves about $300 moving as an industry towards being as per hectare. “I spend virtually nothing organic as we can be, because someone will question it.” May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 15

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWBORDEAUX LEARNS TO ADAPT TO CLIMATE CHANGEAS FRENCH exports plummeted by nearly de-leafed in June and July. In 2003 it all minutiae being an ascendant aspiration20 per cent last year to their lowest level changed. We de-leafed one side[and for the real Bordeaux cognoscenti. Within a decade, with little sign of any sort of waited]. I didn’t do a second de-leafing.” more regular vintages, perhaps the joyrecovery in 2010, parts of the industry Less vigilant producers continued with their of squirrelling away a particularly goodhave been turning their attention to ways systematic approach, only to find sunburnt find will become a thing of the past, atof dealing with climate change, and how bunches in their vineyards. least for those who can still afford theto lessen their own environmental footprint. prices. As Bruno Eynard says, “the most The 2003 vintage in Bordeaux was the difficult choices are for the next 20, 30, While the industry generally accepts most New World-like to date - by which, 40 years”, which includes what grapethat climate change is occurring, one of in Europe, is generally meant hotter varieties should be planted. And thatBordeaux’s medium-term saving graces is fruit, often jammy, with high alcohol small question about irrigation.that it has built its long-standing reputation and lower acidity. It’s hard to imaginefrom a geographical position of a cool, the Bordelais citing lack of viticultural Those decisions will necessarily involvemarginal climate for growing cabernet experience, but when it came to such ways to lower carbon footprints, whichsauvignon and merlot. Which means, for the a hot vintage, this is exactly so. Over in is a path being trodden by an entiremoment at least, a bit of climate warming is the Rhone Valley, Philippe Guigal of the appellation - Saumur Champigny - in theappreciated, rather than feared, if only for eponymous company revealed his study Loire valley, north of Bordeaux. It is thethe reds. The average rise in temperature visits to the Barossa Valley and California first in France to adopt an appellation-of 2C means that in a cooler, marginal stood him in good stead to handle the wide biodiversity programme with theclimate, grapes can ripen more regularly, very challenging 2003 vintage in his aim of using fewer chemical productsmore evenly and more consistently. home territory. - no herbicides and fewer pesticides. All growers in the appellation have signed upWe are not introducing natural predators - just to the initiative.broadening biodiversity, avoiding plants that might The programme has been put together by Dr Maarten van Helden, associateharbour bad insects. professor at Bordeaux University, who specialises in agro-ecology It’s therefore a case of a few more decent Changing vineyard management and integrated pest management invintages being made, as Bruno Eynard, the techniques will offer Bordeaux some viticulture. He says the growers askedgeneral manager of third growth Chateau further buffering against the persistent him “to create a landscape managementLagrange in Saint-Julien says. “In a decade onslaught of climate change. Eric Perrin, plan which would reduce insect pests inwe used to get one exceptional, three owner of Chateau Carbonnieux in Pessac- the area”. Studies in the 1500ha Saumur-good, three medium and three modest Leognan (Graves), classified for red Champigny appellation showed the main[not very good at all] vintages. Now we get and white, says progress “was mostly insect threat to be the grape berry moth,three exceptional, six very good and one oenology in the 1980s and 1990s. Now which, Dr van Helden says, “is the mainmedium.” The Bordelais are having a ball, progress will be more in the vineyard.” insect of a monoculture and is reducedeven though it may be short-lived. Leaf plucking is one option, but longer- in non-monocultures”. term options include retraining the vines And while the history records show that at different heights, or replanting with The plan therefore is to create a morein any given decade there are hotter and different rootstocks which can influence diverse landscape and a more complexcooler years, the sustained, hot 2003 ripening rates. Irrigation, currently ecosystem in the vineyard. The first stephas turned into a decisive vintage for top banned, may be required. is to plant hedgerows, so far extending forBordeaux producers. Until this time, says more than 25km and still being planted,Francois Despagne, owner of Chateau For the moment the Bordelais are but not randomly. Dr van Helden says,Grand-Corbin-Despagne in Saint Emilion enjoying some regularity and consistency “We’re testing hypotheses: connectivity- which was promoted to St Emilion in their wines. On the downside, vintage by planting hedgerows as corridors;Grand Cru Classe in 2006 - viticultural variation has been one of the most and stepping stones - small areas ofmanagement was largely systematic, so fascinating mainstays of the annual biodiversity - in areas of monoculture.“from 1997 to 2003 we systematically Bordeaux campaign, with knowledge-in- We hope to be able to show one is more efficient than another.”16 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

The natural layout of vineyards andcommunities goes some way to helpingconcentrate growers’ minds, and theprogramme doesn’t mean abandoningcommercial vineyards. Dr van Heldensays that usually somewhere betweenfive and 25 per cent of viticultural land isnot cultivated, so sometimes it’s a caseof putting this non-planted land to moreconstructive use. What this programme in Saumur-Champigny is specifically not doing isintroducing natural predators into thevineyard, which is a common way ofmanaging pests in a less environmentallydamaging way. “We are not introducingnatural predators - just broadeningbiodiversity, avoiding plants that mightharbour bad insects,” says Dr van Helden. Growers’ association ex-presidentFredrik Filliatreau, who drove the project,says the main objective was to reducechemical applications, and they’vebacked this up with a modification of therules of production. In addition to their work with Dr vanHelden, the growers have put in nineweather stations across the appellation,which, Fredrik says, is “to followthe humidity, climate, precipitation,temperature etc all year round, tohelp growers reduce treatments fordiseases such as mildew. We’re notworking only on the insects, becauseinsecticides are not the main chemicalproduct we use. We’re reducing theuse of herbicides and other chemicalsby understanding weather”. If all this sounds logical andstraightforward, consider the entrenchedhistorical viticultural heritage of France.“This is a big step for us,” Filliatreau says.“A lot of growers are over 50 years old. Theyhave wonderful experience, but they arenot very sensitive about ecology. But theyare pleased to [be part of the programme]because they use less money. And it’sbetter for the ecology.”

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYTAKE SOME OF THE GUESSWORK OUT OF CHOOSING WINESTHE PROLIFERATION of wines from should also be drunk young. That goes word to watch for here is ‘joven’, whichacross the globe that are flooding for all Italian white wines, with a few indicates a young wine with normally noAustralian bottle shops is a sign of our exceptions such as the glorious soave oak maturation and meant to be consumedmaturing palate as a wine drinking nation. from Peiropan (La Rocca), which sees young. In general, if a red wine has hadSipping a Pouilly Fume or sampling oak maturation and is priced in the only a couple of months in oak then, again,an Italian sangiovese is becoming premium range. Australia’s best pinot gris it is designed for immediate consumption.commonplace in the CBD of state capital and grigios come from the Morningtoncities and chic pockets around the Peninsula. Rose is another very popular Oxidised white wines pick up a bruisedcountry. Imports have risen dramatically style but the rule is definitely to drink the apple aroma and that can further developin recent years, much to the distress of freshest wines available. into sherry-like aromas. The colourlocal winemakers. deepens and you can sometimes pick With red wines, French Beaujolais is the oxidised wine in a line-up on a bottle However, the surge of imports has also one of the classic drink-early styles. The shop shelf. Red wines can be identifiedexposed the need for higher levels of top 10 cru village wines include names by a duller, cooked fruit aroma. The termeducation to enjoy these wines. In too such as Brouilly and Moulin a Vent, ‘maderised’ is commonly used.many instances I’ve noticed imported which produce some of the longest-livingwines languishing on shelves well out of Beaujolais, but these can last only four Price is often a reliable indicator of thedate and past their best, waiting for an or five years on average. Otherwise, all ageing ability of wine, with a few exceptionsunsuspecting customer to leap into the such as Australia’s excellent Hunter Valleyunknown and try a bottle. Sadly, they willultimately be disappointed, never to try Oxidised white wines pick up a bruised apple aromathat style or brand again. Determining and that can further develop into sherry-like aromas.what is current drinking is a vital skill inpurchasing wines. Beaujolais should be consumed within semillon and dry rieslings. If you buy a one to two years after release. Spanish Rioja or Ribera Del Duero for $15 Each country, including Australia and and it’s a 2005 - already five years old -New Zealand, has its ‘drink now’ styles. In Italy, Chianti is not simply Chianti don’t expect it to taste very fresh or in mintEach year we wait for the new vintage of - there are nine different wines that condition. The key is to buy the most currentMarlborough sauvignon blanc to hit the could bear the name, with or without a vintage of these wines. Ask your retailershelves. This is definitely a drink-early sub-regional name. The main ones are which wines they have just received andstyle, with up-front fruit and fresh, crisp, labelled either Chianti, Chianti Classico, when they were imported.zesty acidity on the palate. Australian Chianti Rufino and Chianti Sensesi.sauvignon blanc from regions such Those simply labelled Chianti are the In the current market, with plenty of wineas Orange and the Adelaide Hills has ones that should be consumed in their on the market from home and abroad,improved out of sight. These wines should youth, while Classico and Rufino are the winner is the consumer. Retailers arebe drunk within one to three years. A clear best drunk between three and five years stocking wines originally destined forsign that they have passed their best is old. The Reserva labelled wines have export markets, although there is a dangerwhen the fresh, crisp palate disappears good cellaring potential. Vapolicella or of older Australian wines coming onto theand the aromas go from fresh gooseberry Valpolicella Classico, from the Veneto market as tanks are emptied. Australianor crunchy green capsicum into tinned region in north-eastern Italy, is another screw cap wines do preserve the aromasasparagus or an unattractive vegetal one to drink quickly. The Ripasso styles and flavours better than cork, which is stillsmell. Reserve-style sauvignon blancs can age a little longer and the premium- often used on imported wines. They alsowith some oak maturation can age longer priced Amarone have no problem in travel less to reach the shops. Our winesand are underrated, quality-driven wines. lasting 10 or more years. display higher fruit concentrations, alcohol and tannins that help preserve them and Pinot grigio, either from northern Italy Australia has seen an increase in the improve their reliability.or our own shores and a prolific seller, number of tempranillos from Spain. The18 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

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winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGHOT BUT NOT BOTHERED ON THE MORNINGTON PENINSULA WHEN Caudalie, the French beauty Last December the 20ha Peninsula Hot your skin to feel as fresh as a newborn’s,brand that bases its skincare on grapes Springs property unveiled the second there’s also a smart range of mud, stone,and grapevine extracts, announced it was stage of a development designed in the salt and steam therapies available in theopening a ‘wine spa’ at Chateau Smith style of such toney Japanese onsen hot very private Spa Dreaming Centre that areHaute Lafite in Bordeaux in the early spring resorts as Arima and Miyajima, as sophisticated as their counterparts innoughties, journalists worldwide - including which charge $US2500 a person for a Asia and Europe. Feeling peckish? Theme - were intrigued. Not least by the name. weekend visit. You can’t stay at Peninsula expanded relaxation centre also houses theCaudalie comes from the French vigneron’s Hot Springs yet - 126 chic spa lodges to Bath House cafe, which serves spa cuisineterm which means the unit measure for the be ‘hidden’ in the surrounding dunes for created by leading Melbourne celebritytime a wine’s flavour lingers in the mouth. ultimate privacy are slated to open in 2012 - chef Andrew Blake.The more caudalies, the better the wine. An but the day spa featuring mineral-rich wateromen of sorts, as it turned out. that bubbles up from 637m underground Eating is as much a part of a visit to at 50C has been a huge success with Peninsula Hot Springs as detoxing. You Five years later, Caudalie took its wine- Melburnians, interstate visitors and golfers can front up for the ultimate healthy cookedinspired treatments to Rioja and set up shop from nearby Peppers Moonah Links resort - breakfast washed down with one of Emmaat the Marques di Riscal hotel, designed by only a seven-minute golf buggy ride away. & Tom’s Vitamin and Mineral Waters.American star architect Frank Gehry. I’ve The raspberry and cranberry juice isbeen to both establishments and can tell you The architecture and garden layout are particularly refreshing. The lunch menuthat nothing freshens the complexion better inspired. In addition to the public baths follows a ‘Mediterrasian’ bent and veersthan a ‘scrub’ of crushed cabernet grapes. scattered around the main area and the from chorizo sausage, roasted pepper, oliveUnless it’s the barrel bath treatment, in which tiny, only-for-two private baths tucked into and mushroom pizza to a big bowl of Asian-bubbling-hot spring water is enriched with forest glades, the very chic expansion style soup - barbecue pork, noodles, beansuper-fine pieces of grape skin. has added 39 more bathing experiences, sprouts, chicken, prawns and bok choy.If you want your skin to feel as fresh as a newborn’s, there’s also a smart rangeof mud, stone, salt and steam therapies. Caudalie isn’t alone in teaming luxury spa including a Turkish hammam, authentic As you would expect, local wines featureand grape-based treatments. In Italy, Terme di Finnish sauna and a private hilltop spa strongly in the popular Dine & BatheSalvarola in Emilia-Romagna, once an ancient with a 360-degree view of the surrounding menus – two-course meals with optionsthermal centre frequented by the Romans, countryside. Imagine a plate of fruit and a such as five spice roast duck salad, figsserves up exfoliation and massage treatments chilled glass of local sparkling wine here at and hazelnuts to Syrian chicken with giantusing Lambrusco di Grasparossa grapes. sunset for a master/mistress of the universe couscous. More of a pasta lover? Then feeling. The uplifting trek to the top of the hill select from the Pasta and Bathe line-up for But you don’t have to go halfway around the makes sliding into the bubbling hot water a gnocchi with duck and thyme ragu orworld to enjoy a luxury spa in wine country seem even more of a reward. veal and caramelised onion tortellini withthat feels a little bit French and a little bit tomato and basil sauce to go with yourItalian. A couple of years ago, Peninsula The luscious products slapped onto complimentary glass of Mornington redHot Springs on the Mornington Peninsula the willing bodies at any spa are a major or white matched by the sommelier - allopened its doors as Australia’s first up-market drawcard. And to further bolster its position for just $70 a person, including a three-hot spring spa. Note the word luxury. The of offering up-scale natural healing and hour bathing session. The evening Dine &Northern Territory has long relieved the aches relaxation, Peninsula Hot Springs offers a Bathe packages are very popular becauseand pains of locals and visitors at Mataranka huge array of body and face treatments they include the whisper-quiet twilight timeand Bitter Springs, about 100km south of using Li’Tya, Australia’s premier luxury and lazing in the moon-viewing pools. YouKatherine, while an estimated 300,000 visitors home-grown spa brand, which features don’t even need to drink to feel the magic,a year take a dip in Moree’s Hot Artesian Pool native ingredients such as lilly pilly and but a glass of pinot noir only deepens theComplex in NSW, first opened in 1895. But Tasmanian peat mud, and Phyt’s Certified feeling of fantasy.posh they are not. Organic products from France. If you want20 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

The Bath House cafe may be one of thepeninsula’s best but the antique shops,seaside walks and 50 cellar doors beckonstrongly. Before lunch, a good trio of wineriesto park the car at include Paringa Estate (forgreat reserves unavailable elsewhere), RedHill Estate and Tuck’s Ridge. You can lunchsplendidly at all three venues or head forthe atmospheric amphitheatre setting and‘chef’s hat’ cuisine at Montalto Vineyardand Olive Grove. Fancy more of a snack?The Roman-style pizza at T’Gallant winerycan be sniffed from metres away. Aftera leisurely chow-down, finish off the daywith inspections of Morning Star Estate,Hickinbotham of Dromana or Willow Creek. Beauty junkies-cum-winelovers also havethe option of the Endota Wellness Spa at RedHill or the Spa Retreat at Woodman Estate.Two of my favourite places to stay are GlyntManor Luxury Retreat and George’s B&B.The Mornington Peninsula may liken itselfto Tuscany or Provence but it also providesservices that the Italians and French wouldn’tthink of, now that their drink/driving lawsare stricter. If you don’t want to restrict yourtasting or drinking pleasure because life andyour visit is too short, book a ‘designateddriver’ through Luxury Personalised Tours orMornington Peninsula Shuttle Services. Fact file: Peninsula Hot Springs is only a 75to 90-minute drive from central Melbourne.Prices begin at $30 per adult for a daypass to the public areas, with treatmentpackages beginning at $135. If you wantto stay overnight, Peppers Moonah LinksYin Yang Packages are available for $525per couple, which includes overnightaccommodation in a one-bedroom suite,full buffet breakfast, an access bathingpass for two, one Kudo body massage,one round of golf, lunch for one and acomplimentary visit access pass for thesecond day. Two night packages with thesame inclusions are available for $725 percouple. For more information and bookings,see www.peninsulahotsprings.com.au. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 21

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELPREACHING TO THE UNCONVERTED: EARLY PROMOTION OF AUSTRALIAN WINES - PART 3 AND FINALWE HAVE been looking at some of the the grape’s rich store of valuable minerals, magazines emphasised the “even sunnyAustralian Wine Board’s promotional including iron. Wine refreshes mind and climate, widely spread vineyards” andactivities from the mid-1950s to the early body - releases new vitality - smoothes “consistent quality”, and pointed out that1970s, preserved in a publicity album away the day’s worries.” Furthermore, in Australia “every year is a good vintagefor the board and currently held by the Australian wine offered good value. “Each year”. Australian wine was “the choice ofAustralian Wine and Brandy Corporation. glass costs only a few pence. Fine wine is the connoisseur”.During these years the board, forerunner not a luxury in Australia.”of the corporation, ran an Australia-wide In November 1971 the board began aadvertising campaign promoting wine. Usually, you were told that “meal year-long Australia-wide promotion of time is unquestionably the proper time flagons. The “ten cent extravaganza”, as As well as advertisements in newspapers to take wine”, because “alcohol injury it was called, pointed out that there wereand magazines the board issued pamphlets is more likely to be feared when the “20 glasses of wine in one Great Australianon several aspects of buying, storing, alcohol is taken on an empty stomach”. Flagon”. Not only was there a plethoraserving and drinking wine. In addition to Drinking wine with meals was good for of print advertisements, especially ingiving advice on what wine to serve with you, especially if you’d had a hectic day Women’s Weekly, Readers Digest, TVwhat food, a pamphlet, How to start a wine at the office. “Discover the soothing, Week and the daily press, but for thecellar, made the sensible point that you smoothing, relaxing effect of good wine whole year there would be advertisingdon’t necessarily need one - it depends on on taut nerves … and its energising tonic emblazoned on buses and trams in thespace available and finance - but if you did effect when you’re a little tired.” Perhaps capital cities. Wine merchants wereyou could start with “a dozen each of the surprisingly, a specific amount of wine encouraged to “reap your share of thismain wine types” and make sure you don’t was recommended, presumably for growth market” by displaying flagonsstore them in a rack on top of the fridge or blokes only. “A modest quantity of light prominently and “encouraging yournear the hot water service. wine - say, up to a reputed pint [about customers to experiment with the Great Australian Wines in flagons”.Discover the soothing, smoothing, relaxing effect of The writing was often lyrical, irresistible,good wine on taut nerves … and its energising tonic sometimes even alliterative: “A gleaming glass of white wine gives life and lift to anyeffect when you’re a little tired. meal.” “There’s the glow of a thousand grapes in a bottle of fine wine - and a Another pamphlet, Wine waiter’s three-quarters of a bottle] - with the mid- wealth of goodness, too - all the energisingmanual, published around 1960, also day and evening meal [presumably not properties recognised through the ages.”gave wise advice, including making sure each meal] is fine.” At about 570ml a day,that “all glasses are dry, and absolutely this is above the current recommended This historically important album comesclean. Many a good wine has been daily maximum of four glasses for men from a much less complex age, whenspoiled because the wine has been wiped (about 480ml). But at least you would the simple message to drink more winewith a dirty or tainted cloth”. [Today, you be comforted to know that “wine aids did not conflict with advice on howcould add dishwashers to the causes of digestion” and is “a help in the hospital”. much alcohol it was safe to drink forspoilage.] And “do not put ice into the your health’s sake, or when driving, orwine glass. If wine requires chilling this Perhaps you were considering the then- pregnant, or anything else. And thereshould be attended to before opening”. daunting task of sending some Australian were far fewer grape varieties andHowever, it was all right to serve sherry wines overseas. The ads told you how to wine styles in Australia from which to“on the rocks”. do it. They listed the names of local wine choose. It created a climate for the merchants who would “arrange delivery eager consumption of the profusion of The health benefits of drinking wine were to your friends direct from the Australian words written on wine today, includingfrequently alluringly mentioned. “Wine is Wine Centre in London”. The campaign the establishment of magazines such asthe pure juice of choice grapes, picked at was not restricted to Australia and the UK. Wine and Spirit Buying Guide in 1975,their moment of maturity. Wine brings you Advertisements in Chinese and Canadian and Winestate, which later took over Wine and Spirit Buying Guide, in 1978.22 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

CIAO ITALIA! Italy 2010 WINE TOUR OF ITALY 11 September - 29 September 2010 - in conjunction with The Australian newspaper & Travelrite International. Hosted by Winestate editor/publisher Peter Simic, the 15-night tour frommid-September features fascinating and informative visits to Rome, Umbria (Orvieto) and fabulous Tuscany (Montalcino & Montepulciano) for Brunello and Chianti and visits to Siena and Florence. Then onto the Piemonte region (Alba) for Barolo and Barbaresco; a visit to Turin before moving across to the spectacular Lake Garda, our base for visits to northern Alto Adige and the eastern Verona region, near Venice. We will sample the wines, meet the winemakers and enjoy local cuisine while exploring towns and villages in the best Italian tradition. We stay in quality hotels in Rome, Siena, Florence, Parma, Alba, Milan and Riva del Garda. Peter Simic will open doors not normally available to tourists and ensure you have a rewarding and exciting time in outstanding surroundings. Peter’s knowledgeable and caring leadership will make this one of your best-ever wine & food holidays!To check out individual winery visits go to www.winestate.com.au and click on the link.

Tour of Italy 2010Paolo Manzone.THE ITINERARY DAY 3 Peter Simic, your tour guide, is an ideal host for this trip. Monday 13 September With a background in publishing and wine education overDAY 1 SIENA 30 years, his wine knowledge is extensive. In addition toSaturday 11 September After breakfast we will travel being the founding editor/publisher of Winestate, PeterDEPARTURE north by private coach to the was formerly the founding publisher of Wine & SpiritTour members depart Australian Orvieto sub-region in Umbria for (US), manager of the SA Wine Information Bureau, andcapital cities and travel on Singapore our first wine visit to the classic wine educator with SA Regency College. He is also aAirlines overnight services to Italian winery estate of Castello regular wine commentator in newspapers and on radio andRome. It will be possible for Delle Regine with the promise of television in all states. Peter has led a number of highlymembers to depart Australia on an an Italian “Slow food” afternoon: successful wine tours: the Winestate tours to France inearlier day - accommodation will be good food, good wines and good 1999, 2003 and 2007, the QE2 Winestate cruise in 2001,offered at a Rome hotel for clients people! Late afternoon we travel the Winestate tours to Italy in 2002 and 2005 and thearriving early. Please call for details. onto the wonderful city of Siena Winestate tours to Spain and Portugal in 2004 and 2008. for a three night stay.DAY 2 your expert tour leaderSunday 12 September DAY 4 ROME Tuesday 14 September On arrival mid-morning at Rome SIENAAirport, the tour group will be met This morning we will join ourby a private coach and travel to private coach to travel south tocentral Rome for an afternoon Montepulciano, a great Tuscansightseeing tour with a local hill town. It is the home ofguide before checking into the one of Italy’s most famoustour’s centrally located four-star red wines, Vino Nobile dihotel. The tour group will come Montepulciano, produced fromtogether for welcome drinks sangiovese and local varietieswith Peter Simic before dinner. such as canaiolo and mammolo.A good value local restaurant will We will visit key producers,be recommended. Fattoria del Cerro and the highly24 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

CIAO ITALIA!regarded Poliziano winery. main sights. There will be free Top & Centre: Sensi Vini barrel room and winery at night. Below: Monte del Frà.Afterwards we return to Siena time for lunch at leisure beforefor an evening of leisure. we depart for the spectacular the company of the Paolo DAY 12 Castello di Gabbiano vineyard Manzone family at their winery. Wednesday 22 September DAY 5 in Chianti (part of the Foster’s A number of local restaurants will MILANWednesday 15 September group). There will be time for be recommended for dinner. After breakfast we will continueSIENA shopping on our return and exploring the fine wines ofFollowing breakfast we travel good quality restaurants will be DAY 11 Piedmont. We will head northsouth to the most famous recommended for dinner. Tuesday 21 September to the Novara and Vercelli Hillswine area in southern Tuscany, ALBA region, notable for the bold reds:Montalcino, home of Brunello DAY 8 Today we have a fabulous Gattinara and Ghemme, produceddi Montalcino. Here we visit the Saturday 18 September visit arranged to the famous from nebbiolo. Included will be amagnificent Villa of the Argiano PARMA Prunotto winery; a meeting cellar tour and hosted lunch bywinery dating back to the 1580 This morning we will travel north with their winemaker Gianluca the dynamic Marrone family atRenaissance period. There will for a day in the Emilia-Romagna Torrengo, and a hosted lunch. Agricola Gian Piero Marrone.be time to explore the pleasant wine region, which covers antown of Montalcino. We will enjoy area from south of Bologna tothe first Winestate Magazine north of Parma. Here we visit theCelebration Lunch at a noted Gaviolo Family winery, whereMichelin- starred restaurant in Lambrusco and Gaviolo date backMontalcino. An impressive menu to 1794. There will be free timewill be served with a range of in Bologna and in late afternoontop-ranking local wines selected we will continue on to Parma,by Peter Simic. our base for two nights. Parma is an important market townDAY 6 and the home of two of Italy’sThursday 16 September most famous culinary delights:FLORENCE Parmesan cheese and dry-curedAfter a morning free time in ham. Good value restaurants willSiena we travel further north for be recommended for dinner.vineyard visits in the well-knownChianti region located between DAY 9Siena and Florence. Sangiovese Sunday 19 September is the essential variety in Chianti, PARMAwith many of the best producers The morning will be free forusing it exclusively. We will visit individual activity. At lunchtimethe top vineyard of Sensi Vini and we will enjoy a Winestateenjoy structured tastings followed Magazine Celebration Lunchby a trip to the magnificent 15th at a high-quality Michelin-starredcentury Machiavellian structure restaurant. Peter Simic willof Villa Mangiacane. In late choose a range of prestige Italianafternoon we will travel on to wines that will match a fineour centrally located Florence menu. The evening will be free.hotel for a two-night stay.Good quality restaurants will be DAY 10recommended for dinner. Monday 20 September ALBADAY 7 After breakfast we will travel westFriday 17 September to the Piedmont region and theFLORENCE delightful town of Alba, famousAfter breakfast we will enjoy for its white truffles, where wean optional short walking tour will stay for two nights. Here weof Florence with a local guide, begin our visit with a tasting andvisiting the Duomo, the Piazza tour of the winery, Produttoridella Signoria, the Ponte Vecchio del Barbaresco winery. After aand this remarkable city’s other complimentary lunch we enjoy May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 25

Tour of Italy 2010Later in the afternoon we visit the restaurant for a Winestate important La Montina winery for a will perform for us among thespectacular Castello di Luzzano Magazine Celebration Dinner. tour and lunch. The winery is in the statues of the estate.winery on the way to Milan for a There will be a carefully selected Franciorta region and dates back totwo night stay. menu, with local wines matched 1620 and Pope Paul VI. We then DAY 17 by Peter Simic to regional food. move on to the Masi Winery, near Monday 27 September DAY 13 Verona. Masi is one of Italy’s most DEPARTUREThursday 23 September DAY 14 important wineries, known for its After breakfast the tour group willMILAN Friday 24 September amarone style reds. If time permits be transferred to Milan’s MalpensaIn the morning we will enjoy a RIVA DEL GARDA they will also show us the historical Airport to join the internationaltour of the sights of Milan with After breakfast we will travel east Serego Alighieri Villa. flight back to Australia.a local guide. There will be free by private coach to Lake Garda andtime for independent activity in our hotel located right on the lake in DAY 15 DAY 18the afternoon before we come the small town of Riva del Garda. Saturday 25 September Tuesday 28 Septembertogether at a Michelin-starred On the way we visit the historically RIVA DEL GARDA EN ROUTETO AUSTRALIA The best wines are produced Marrone family. between Lake Garda and Verona DAY 19 and in the elevated Alto Adige Wednesday 29 September region to the north.Valpolicella and EARLY MORNING ARRIVAL Bardolino are notable reds and well- IN AUSTRALIA. known whites include Soave and Trentino chardonnay. In the moring TOUR DETAILS we visit the beautiful Monte del Frà winery for a wonderful The price for the 15 night tour sparkling Italian wine tour. is $10,250.00 per person twin share. Single supplement isLa Montina. DAY 16 $1,500.00 per person. The land- Sunday 26 September only price for the tour (no flights) is RIVA DEL GARDA $8,700.00 per person twin share. After breakfast we will take a International and general travel ferry trip on Lake Garda and taxes and fuel surcharges are then enjoy our final Winestate additional; at 25 November 2009 Magazine Celebration Lunch they were approximately $546.00 at the aristocratic Il Dominio per person for economy class. di Bagnoli Cellars dating back Please call for business class fares to the 14th century, the most and for fares on other airlines. prestigious winery of Padua. To finish the tour Venetian players INCLUDED INTHE TOUR PRICE: great food and wine • Return economy class air travel from east coast AustralianFull continental breakfast daily and four special Winestate Magazine Celebration lunches/ capitals to Rome and returndinners are included in the tour package plus a number of superb winery hosted lunches. These from Milan. Long-haul travel willlunches/dinners will be occasions at which we celebrate the food and wine of each region. be on Singapore Airlines. Please call for other departure cities. Passengers will be able to extend their stay in Europe and stop over in Singapore at no extra airfare cost. • Accommodation in three and four star hotels with private facilities. Hotel taxes and service charges. • Full continental breakfast daily and four special Winestate Magazine Celebration lunches or dinners.26 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

CIAO ITALIA! very special experiencesFollowing the great success of previous wine toursto France, Italy and Spain, Peter Simic and the staff atWinestate Magazine have arranged for a series of veryspecial visits in the historic and impressive fine wineareas of Italy. We will visit vineyards that are rarely opento the public and sample special vintages and meetpeople responsible for their skillful production. It will be aunique opportunity to meet the characters and expand ourknowledge in most enjoyable and pleasant surroundings.• Entrance, tasting fees and GENERAL INFORMATION CHANGES. International reserves the rightspecial services at vineyards AND BOOKING CONDITIONS After confirmation of travel to cancel the tour if insufficientin each of the regions visited. TOUR OPERATOR. arrangements, one change passengers have booked by 60Sightseeing and general entrance Travelrite International Pty Ltd to travel arrangements will days before departure, giving afees as detailed in the itinerary. (ABN 64 005 817 078) is the tour be provided free of charge. full refund of all monies paid,• Tour leadership by Peter operator working with Winestate Subsequent changes will incur a or offering arrangements toSimic, editor/publisher of Publishing Pty Ltd. fee of $25 for each change. proceed with the tour at aWinestate Magazine. TOUR PRICES. CANCELLATIONS. modified price.• Tour management byTravelrite Prices are based on Cancellation advised more REFUNDS.International Pty Ltd, with an airfare, general transport, than 60 days from the date The tour is based onexperienced staff member accommodation and other costs of departure from Australia arrangements that do not allowtravelling with the group. at foreign exchange rates at will incur a cancellation fee of for any refunds in respect of• A Travelrite International 25 November 2009. Travelrite $300 per person. Cancellations sightseeing, accommodation,travel bag. International reserves the right advised 60 days or less meals, airfare or other services to alter the tour price or modify from the date of departure not utilised after the tourNOT INCLUDED IN THE the tour if any of these factors from Australia will result in has commenced.TOUR PRICE: change, giving any passenger the loss of all monies paid. TRAVEL DOCUMENTS.• Passport and visa fees. who has booked the right to Travel insurance is strongly All passengers will need to be in• International airport and withdraw with a full refund of recommended to cover the possession of a valid passport.general travel taxes. monies paid. No alteration to the cost of cancellation fees that Passengers holding other than• Travel insurance. tour price will be made within 60 could result from a death in an Australian passport should• Sightseeing and general days of departure from Australia. the family, illness, etc. check requirements withexpenses not specified in the DEPOSITS AND PAYMENTS. MINIMUMTOUR NUMBERS. Travelrite International.itinerary. A deposit of $500 per person is The tour has been priced on the BAGGAGE.• Items of a personal nature. required at the time of booking. basis of a minimum number of Economy class passengers• Additional travel arrangements - Full payment will be required 60 passengers having booked 60 qualify for a 23kg airlinethese will be quoted for separately. days before departure. days before departure. Travelrite baggage allowance. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 27

Tour of Italy 2010CIAO ITALIA!CHANGES TO THE for passengers with carriers,TOUR ITINERARY. hoteliers, Travelrite InternationalTravelrite International reserves acts only as agent for passengersthe right to make changes to the in making arrangements withitinerary to fit in with operational carriers, hoteliers and othersrequirements. Any change to the for the tour. As a result, weitinerary will be replaced with cannot accept liability for anysimilar arrangements with an act or omission whatsoever,equal or greater value. whether negligent or otherwise,RESPONSIBILITY. of those carriers, hoteliers orTravelrite International Pt y other persons providing servicesLtd (ABN 64 005 817 078), in connection with the tourLicence No 30858) is the tour over whom we have no directorganiser. Nationwide News or exclusive control. We doPty Limited and The Australian not accept responsibility forhas no involvement in the tour, any injury, damage, loss, delay,and has no liability of any kind to change of schedule, or anyany person to the tour. Travelrite other events that are beyondInternational Pty Ltd acts only as our direct control, such as, butagent in making arrangements not limited to, war, terrorism, comfortable tour hotels flood, fire, civil disturbance, acts Further information and of God, acts of government, or booking forms can be obtainedWe have carefully selected well-located three and four any other authorities, accidents by t e l e p h o n i n g Tr ave l r i t estar hotels (top class or very comfortable Michelin ratings) to or failure of machinery or International Pty Ltd on (03) 9836that provide good value for money. All hotels have clean, equipment, or industrial actions. 2522 or 1800 630 343 (toll-free).comfortable rooms with private facilities. Some will provide The passage contract in usean enjoyable experience of hotels “European style”, rather than by the carriers concerned, Travelrite International Pty Ltdthe uniformity of standardised modern hotels. when issued, shall constitute ABN 64 005 817 078. the sole contract between Licence No 30858 the transportation companies November 2009 or firms and the purchasers Email: [email protected] of these tours. Baggage is at owners’ risk throughout the tour. ABOUT TRAVELRITE The contract between passenger INTERNATIONAL and Travelrite International shall Travelrite International Pty Ltd is be construed in accordance with a well-established travel company the laws of the State of Victoria. that has been operating in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne HOWTO BOOK for 30 years. It is fully licensed Bookings can be made by sending and has two fully accredited IATA full names and addresses of offices: Heathmont and Balwyn. intending tour members with a It directly represents the major deposit of $500 per person to: airlines of the world and all major domestic and international tour Travelrite International Pty Ltd and transport operators.Travelrite 298 Whitehorse Rd, International is a member of the Balwyn 3103 Victoria Australian Federation of Travel Agents (AFTA).28 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

New ReleaseDirty Girl’s BubblesSylvan Springs Estates is Major Retailersa proud McLaren Valeboutique wine producer. Fassina (SA)Our philosophy is to Booze Brothers (SA)concentrate all of our Cellarbrations - Tappy’s (SA)resources into a small Village Cellars (SA)range of wines and do McLaren Vale Hotel (SA)it well! Tonsley Hotel (SA)T: +61 8383 0500 Torrens Arms Hotel (SA)[email protected] Baden Powell Cellars (VIC)Sam@sylvansprings wineboss.com.auwww.sylvansprings.com.au Burton Stores (VIC) Carma Cellars (VIC) Finest Drop Cellars (VIC) Chippendale Cellars (NSW) Platinum Liquor (NSW) D’Vine Cellars (NSW) Criss Cross Cellars (ACT) Walkabout Tavern (NT) squashedgrape.com.au

DISTINCTIVELY DIFFERENTIdentity issues aside, Wairarapa and Nelson are making their markMICHAEL COOPER Kairanga in 2008 decided to focus its Wairarapa Valley, to the north and south Martinborough plantings on pinot noir, but of Masterton, the largest urban centreTWO OF NEW ZEALAND’S draw the other half of its fruit intake from in the Wairarapa. About one-third of the other, more naturally productive regions - Wairarapa’s wine flows from the Opaki, Eastsmaller wine regions lie in the middle of the chardonnay, pinot gris and gewurztraminer Taratahi and Gladstone districts.country, on opposite sides of Cook Strait. from Gisborne; merlot from Hawke’s Bay;Nelson and the Wairarapa boast over 100 sauvignon blanc from Marlborough. Ata Here, the winemakers are grappling with awineries - more than 15 per cent of all New Rangi in 2007 purchased grapes from key identity issue. Most producers label theirZealand wine companies - but in 2009 they Central Otago for its drink-young Crimson wines as of ‘Wairarapa’ origin (a geographicproduced less than five per cent of the Pinot Noir label. term for which Martinborough producerscountry’s wine. also qualify, although they rarely use it). The good news is that the 2008 and But the Wairarapa name is not exclusive At the bottom of the North Island, the 2009 vintages have treated the region’s to the vineyards near Masterton, and it isWairarapa (including Martinborough, its winemakers more kindly. The 2008 pinot also easily confused with the winegrowingfamous district), has 64 wine producers and noirs, now on the market, are from a bumper sub-region of Waipara, in North Canterbury.a bearing vineyard area in 2010 of 882ha. season, one-third larger than the previousPinot noir dominates plantings, ahead of record. After a favourable growing season, “People don’t know where Gladstone andsauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Only 2009 yielded yet another record harvest. Masterton are,” admits Christine Kernohan,two wineries - Palliser and Te Kairanga - are of Gladstone Vineyard. “We don’t quiteclassified as medium-sized, producing over At first, most of the Wairarapa’s vineyards know how we should explain ourselves to22,000 cases. In 2009, the average winery were planted in and around the small the rest of the world.”in the region produced just 5000 cases. town of Martinborough, but the latest developments are further afield. Vines There is also a widespread belief, After a series of low-yielding vintages are sprouting 45 minutes’ drive up the reflecting the fame of its wines, that(especially 2003, 2005 and 2007), Te Martinborough is a region in its own right,

WE DON’T QUITE KNOW HOW WE SHOULD EXPLAIN OURSELVES TO THE REST OF THE WORLD.rather than a sub-region of the Wairarapa. Woollaston Estates late last year This versatility has been both a strengthThis misconception does nothing to announced it was “tightening its belt” and a weakness, because Nelson neverenhance the profile of the wineries near in response to the recession and the developed a glowing reputation for aMasterton. For wine lovers, the key point tough market around the world. Two staff single standout variety or style, such asto note is that Martinborough and the members were laid off, grape production Martinborough pinot noir. Tim Finn, ofvineyards further north, near Masterton, are was slowed, and the decision was made to Neudorf Vineyards (a source of consistentlyall part of the Wairarapa region. focus more on New Zealand sales. classy riesling and pinot gris), told the local paper that, fortunately, the aromatic tag At the top of the South Island, Nelson has a But there is more to the region was “up for grabs”.similar area of bearing vines (861ha in 2010) than sauvignon blanc, pinot noir andto the Wairarapa, heavier crops, and only half chardonnay. Nelson is “staking a claim By celebrating their rieslings,the number of producers. Seifried, Waimea, as the home of New Zealand’s finest gewurztraminers and pinot gris (150Kahurangi and Spencer Hill are all in the aromatic wines”, reported the Nelson delegates attended the Nelson Aromaticsmedium-sized category. The average Nelson Mail in February. About 20 per cent of the Symposium in February), Nelson’swinery produced 16,500 cases in 2009 - more vineyard area is established in pinot gris, winegrowers are achieving a morethan three times the Wairapara average. riesling, gewurztraminer and viognier. distinctive image. With sauvignon blanc as its most extensively Nelson’s reputation for good aromatic Above: Anchorage Wines Motueka vineyards.planted variety, followed by pinot noir and whites stretches back to the 1970s, when Right: Sauvignon blanc is Nelson’s most widelychardonnay, Nelson has been adversely Austrian Hermann Seifried produced a planted grape variety.affected by the oversupply of Marlborough rivulet of riesling and gewürztraminer. Todaywine, Growers without contracts have been the region produces top-flight bottlings of NELSON & WAIRARAPA TASTING STARTS PAGE 148.reported to be “desperately seeking” - and riesling, gewurztraminer, sauvignon blanc,not always finding - buyers for their fruit. chardonnay, pinot gris and pinot noir. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 31

War Declared OCHNEKAIWPIEI SWest Australian winemakers battle to close the savvy floodgates MIKE ZEKULICHBrand quality, A F L O O D of cheap New Zealand McHenry Hohnen, Plantagenet, Rosawhich so many WA Brook, Sandalford, Stella Bella, Vasse Felix,producers have sauvignon blanc into WA, slashing demand Voyager Estate, Watershed, West Capestrived to preserve for local aromatic white wines, including Howe and Xanadu.through the pursuit the prestigious semillon sauvignon blancof quality wine, is blends, has led to a unique counter-attack The catalyst that stung Jeff Burch into actionbeing progressively that may go on to become a major long- was the realisation that NZ was taking morechipped away. term, State-based marketing promotion. and more market share from WA whites. Other producers told him they were being ‘chopped Opposite: View of the artwork and entrance to the Concerned Howard Park principal up’ by the imports and that something had to Vasse Felix tasting cellar. © Tourism Western Australia. Jeff Burch decided he just had to be done. “Quite frankly, I was fed up,” said do something to try to stem the Kiwi Jeff. “I got sick of seeing advertisements ‘savalanche’, so took a day off to hit using the principle of banding, whereby a the phones and call 20 prominent local good and respected-quality WA wine was producers. All but one agreed to dig deep being offered with a cheap import which and put in the $5000 requested to provide probably cost just a few dollars. The cost of a fighting fund for a ‘wine war’. the two might have been, say, $20, but the average price gives a misleading perception Called ‘Summer with the Locals’, the that the WA wine was worth just $10. “This is multi-pronged campaign aimed to remind just one way brand quality - which so many consumers just how good WA white wines WA producers have strived to preserve were and what a proud industry it was through the pursuit of quality wine - is being that produced them. To identify the wines progressively chipped away.” produced by makers in the scheme, bottles carry specially designed local stickers seeking Jeff, a forthright, no-nonsense man, to catch consumer and trade attention. stressed that consumers were being asked to buy WA wines not from Besides Howard Park, other big-name a sense of parochialism but because producers include Alkoomi, Amberley, WA produced such superior products. Capel Vale, Clairault, Deep Woods, Evans and Tate, Ferngrove, Forest Hill, Madfish,32 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010



“We want consumers to at least consider will give the programme more guts, morea WA wine when they come to buy their attention,” says Jeff. “Part of the objectivenext bottle,’ he says. “We’re not looking for was to demonstrate to the WA industry thathandouts. We’re making terrific wines and it needed to be more cohesive, to workwe’re worthy of their support.” together. Individually, it would be like fighting a tsunami. No one on their own can solve Jeff urges consumers to pick out a WA such a problem, no matter how big they are.”brand they know and trust from drinkingin the past - rather than a mass-produced, Sauvignon blanc in NZ now representscheap, bland, no-name NZ sauvignon more than half the country’s wine productionblanc made from big yields with nothing - an incredible increase in only 30 years.to distinguish them. The variety was first grown in an Auckland vineyard during the 1970s. Cuttings Well, did the campaign work? “We didn’t from those vines supplied the ambitioussell a lot of wine,” says Jeff, “but we put the development of the Marlborough region,issue squarely in front of the public.” He with the first wine in commercial quantitiessaid it was the first step of a long journey marketed in 1980. By the early 1990s,- a pilot scheme to see whether it could sauvignon blanc was firmly established asmake a difference. NZ’s flagship wine, with an ever-increasing demand, locally and nationally. And it has, in the sense that an impressedWA Wine Industry Association - the State’s According to a NZ report, the surplusgoverning body - plans to expand the of wine from 2008 was put at up to 30scheme by opening it to all producers million litres and more than 10 million litresinitially, running a winter reds campaign. “This34 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

from 2009. One website had 63 different attracted people from all over the world compete on the Australian domestic marketsauvignon blancs for sale in bulk. Wineries ready to try wines from near and far by Australian Government policies fosteringhave attempted to clear excess wine - which means the impact of imports closer economic relations, under which NZthrough bulk exports, cheap cleanskins has been disproportionately greater in winemakers get the same Wine Equalisationand lower-status brands, the report says. WA than, say, South Australia. As well, Tax rebate as Australian producers - up to sauvignon blanc is seen as a safe choice $500,000 for sales of $1.7 million. The WA fightback drew good support for consumers not brave enough to lookfrom the State Government, politicians and at alternative white wine styles. Jeff believes there is cause for legalindependent retailers. As well, Jeff describes action because, he claims, NZ sauvignonthe backing from big national retailers as Jeff also warns that, while overproduction blanc is being sold on the Australian market“reasonable”. He says many people who in Australia left producers with “a headache below the cost of production. “That isare proud of the WA industry and the quality after the big party”, the same could clearly dumping,” he says. “It’s a politicalstandards it has achieved are concerned with happen in NZ. “They are continuing to time bomb for me because most big winethe impact of the NZ imports. plant and, with their quite high production companies have interests in New Zealand costs, they will ultimately come to grief. and no one wants to shake the tree.” He says industry research has shown In the meantime, while they are destroyingthat WA consumers, perhaps more than themselves, they will severely damage the BEST OF THE WEST TASTING STARTS PAGE 98.their counterparts in any other states, Australian market.”are more likely to experiment with styles Above: Howard Park Vineyard © Christian Fletcher.from elsewhere because big resource He is also critical of the fact that NZ Left: Howard Park winery © Ken Martin.project developments in the state have producers are being encouraged to May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 35

Sweet Talk Sugar in wine might be unfashionable - but we rather like it anyway 36 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

If they choose the dry wine, serve them theslightly sweet one and watch them enjoy it!ANDREW CORRIGAN MW the taste and a soft silkiness. Red wines as sophisticated - and sweet/fruity wine is well as white wines are made in this way - a not regarded as such. So they talk “dry”.MOST WINE DRINKERS classic “dry” red might in fact have three to Try it yourself when you are the host. Ask five grams per litre of sweetness, and many a guest whether he or she would like aare aware of those really sweet wines reds made for extra consumer appeal at bone-dry white wine or a slightly sweet one.- known as “dessert wines”, which are lower prices have sweetness higher than this If they choose the dry wine, serve them theusually half bottles of nectar with names level. Many NZ sauvignon blancs contain a slightly sweet one and watch them enjoy it!that include terms such as “botrytis” and little sweetness. The “Ben Ean” effect - the suggestion that“noble” and epitomised by Sauternes from the wine was a little sweet - was fatal forFrance and luscious wines from Germany. The level of residual sugar is known as products aiming to appear sophisticated. “RS” in the wine trade and sometimes also Then there are fortified wines like muscat, “GR” - grams residual. The level where Recently some producers have re-enteredtawny port, cream sherry and so on. And sweetness is generally detected varies. For the market and openly marketed a wine aswines that are a bit sweet - often called example, a wine with higher alcohol, such sweet. Frogmore Creek FGR Riesling from“fruity” - and designed to match spicy food as chardonnay, can carry only a little RS Tasmania was among the pioneers; “FGR”(Brown Brothers crouchen riesling and because the tastebuds detect alcohol as a means Forty Grams Residual and indicatesmoscato styles by Italian and Australian type of sweetness anyway and so higher- a fairly substantial level of sweetness.producers are popular examples). However, alcohol wines reinforce any sweetness. The However, the cold climate leaves the rieslinga lot of wine that is known as dry is a little opposite is true for wines naturally high in with quite high acid and, although it appearssweet, and drinkers prefer it this way - acid, from really cold climates where there a little sweet, the result is delicious. Hangingalthough they don’t like to know about it! is a bracing, tingling, mineral taste - German Rock RS Fifty Riesling is another deliciousThere is a famous expression in the wine riesling, Frankland River riesling, white wines style that’s fresh and partly sweet.industry: “People talk dry but drink sweet.” from the Loire Valley in France are examples. A simple technique for making lower- The simple issue is that a bone dry wine These high-acid wines can contain priced sweet wine in Europe is to blendcan taste tart and sour - the best example higher RS and not taste sweet because unfermented grape juice into the dry wineis dry sherry - usually called “fino”. Tio Pepe the acid and sugar balance each other. - German wines such as Liebfraumilch arefrom Spain is readily available and Australian In fact, such cold climate wines definitely made this way. Higher-quality Europeanproducers of fino include Seppeltsfield need some sweetness; German wines are wine and the new styles in Australia areand Pfeiffer. When I serve one of these in well known for it. The problem has been made by using a weaker yeast that givesa beginners’ wine appreciation course, that cheap German wines were too sweet up fermentation without finishing off -many tasters recoil in horror because the and gave an unsophisticated image to leaving residual sugar. The winemakerwine is so dry. So many pre-prepared food German wine overall; the one with the must consider balancing the levels ofand beverages are a little sweet that most especially poor image was Liebfraumilch, grape ripeness and natural acidity.people have developed a bit of a sweet and consumers still joke about it. The measurement of sugar is calledtooth and don’t realise it. Some people’s “baume”, a French term, and is calibratedtastes are quite sweet, as demonstrated by In the 1970s, general wine consumption whereby grapes of 13 baume will producethe popularity of Coca-Cola as a soft drink. in Australia was taking off and many a wine of 13 per cent alcohol if all sugar is riesling blends at the time were made in the fermented. In the case of RS Riesling, a The issue is that some wines are known as German manner with a bit of sweetness - typical crop might be harvested at 12 baumedry but in fact have a surprising amount of Lindemans Ben Ean was a massive seller. and be fermented to nine per cent alcoholsugar. A well-known example is the Yellowtail Ask anyone over 50 and the name will - leaving three degrees of residual sugar.range that has been very successful in the probably bring back fond memories ofUS, where consumers have a notorious youthful exuberance. SWEET & FORTIFIED TASTING STARTS PAGE 141.preference for some sweetness. A tasteof Yellowtail does not readily show off its Even though most consumers enjoysweetness because there is nice harmony in a little sweetness, they like to appear May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 37

PRODUCTIONWITH ADIFFERENCEFilmmakers heading for a new kindof stardom - in the wine industryJOY WALTERFANG D O L C E T T O is a popular red wine from the Piedmont region of northwest Italy, and has been since the 11th century. Yet the bottle of dolcetto I’m looking at right now doesn’t look at all Italian. For a start it’s called Yacca Paddock and there’s a large kangaroo on the label. Over the past few years the dolcetto grape has really taken off in Australia; in fact, Australia is supposed to have the largest planting of the variety outside Italy. The said ‘kangaroo’ dolcetto is a product of Adelaide Hills Yacca Paddock Vineyard, which in turn is the production of filmmaking team Scott Hicks and Kerry Heysen Hicks. It begs the question: why would a seemingly sane internationally successful film director (Scott) and producer (Kerry) decide to go into the wine industry? Simple,38 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

People have often referred, somewhat would work around them; an expensivedisparagingly, to our ‘fruit salad’ block, but it option but one we’ve never regretted.”has turned out to be our saviour. Every one of the 60 acres of grapesaccording to Kerry. “I love growing things,” “From the inception of Yacca Paddock is netted. No guns are allowed on theshe says. “And Scott loves drinking things. Vineyards the care of the environment property and vehicles are bannedWe make a good combination and have was uppermost in our minds,” Kerry from driving in the bushland. “As theredone for 38 years.” When Scott was once says. “We chose a 120-acre property has been no stock grazing in theasked, “What’s it like to have a vineyard?”, in the Adelaide Hills wine region that area since 1997 the regeneration ishis response was, “When we first got it, it had previously been used as a dairy wonderful,” says Kerry. “We have manywas like standing under a shower ripping property, but half of it was still pristine species of native orchid, includingup $100 notes.” bushland. The vineyard was planted in several rare specimens. We have the cleared area which abutted the bush regular bird and frog counts, and do a The film industry probably isn’t that different - we had to make decisions about the species identification to give us a betterfrom the wine industry. To make award- kangaroos and the abundant bird life. understanding of the land.”winning films you need top crews and perfect We decided they were there first so welocations; it’s the same for a good wine. Yacca Paddock, a cool climate vineyard 350m above sea level, was planted in 2000, with Kerry spending the previous year negotiating contracts with wine companies. “That was a long year,” she recalls. “It’s funny where you sometimes take advice from. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 39

I was at the beach at Port Willunga one day biggest contractor said ‘no way’ - so we every three years so we pulled it. It brokewhen a woman came up to me and said, didn’t! Scott still likes to remind them of my heart because we pulled it the year after‘I’m from Rosemount - I believe you’re going this, on a fairly regular basis! it had been particularly good,” Kerry says.to plant a vineyard. Don’t let any of the bigwine companies make you grow all red. “Water is not a problem for us here. Of all the grapes they grow, Kerry’sYou need to balance it.’ I never found out We don’t use a lot as the vineyard is dry- favourite, on the vine, is dolcetto. “It makeswho she was.” But it was advice well heeded. grown, although the whites do need water. such perfect looking bunches of grapes. And I remember Geoff Hardy telling me he once they are so sweet to eat; I’m always sneaking Geoff Hardy designed the vineyard had a shiraz that he hadn’t watered for a bunch off the vine.” Although dolcettofor Scott and Kerry. It was intended to nearly 13 years and the wine it produced grapes taste sweet and the name means ‘littleproduce premium, super-premium and was superb. I believe that’s the way to go. sweet one’, their sugar and acid levels are onultra-premium quality grapes but for this We have very good rainfall up here, a very a par with other red grapes from the regioncreative pair it also had to look beautiful. good bore and a dam. We’ve had a lovely and usually produce a dry wine.“I think Geoff has the most aesthetic eye wet winter; the water soaked down aboutin the world. He’s great,” says Kerry. The a metre and was running off the slopes up In consultation with winemaker Ben Riggs,vineyard is now under the expert guidance until the end of November. We also had a Scott and Kerry have created two wines underof viticulturist Richard Leask. very hot spell early November. I’m sure if their Yacca Paddock label: a dolcetto and a you had stood still long enough you would shiraz/tannat blend. But if you want to check “Together with Geoff we worked out what have seen the vines growing.” them out you will have to be quick becausevarieties we would have. My knowledge once the current stock has gone that will be it.came from reading, Scott’s from drinking. The Yacca Paddock ‘fruit salad’ vineyardApart from the usual premium varieties consists of chardonnay, riesling, sauvignon “I discovered I could run two majorwe also wanted to include some lesser- blanc, pinot noir, shiraz and merlot as well businesses,” explains Kerry. “But I wasknown ones. People have often referred, as the Spanish variety tempranillo, two Italian spreading myself too thin. To sell winesomewhat disparagingly, to our ‘fruit varieties - arneis and dolcetto - tannat, which properly you have to be there, on thesalad’ block, but it has turned out to be our is associated with red wines of south-eastern ground, all the time. We still have one verysaviour. At the time, Scott was very keen to France - and the popular Californian red, durif. good buyer in Japan and also sell to agrow pinot grigio; he thought it was going couple of restaurants in Los Angeles - forto be the next big thing in white. But our “We also had cabernet sauvignon, which an astronomical amount of money! But, was stunning, but was only stunning once basically, all our marketing is done online.”40 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

So what happens to the grapes at Yacca blanc. We asked whose it was as we’re to his Mr Riggs label. Ben has been a hugePaddock? “Our pinot noir is ultra-premium always interested in trying other countries’ believer in the vineyard right from the wordand goes to Magill Estate. We have just sauvignon blanc and they said it’s a Steve go. That was always my ambition - to havebeen down at Magill Estate filming a wine Pannell 2007. ‘They’re our grapes,’ I told the passionate winemakers who were going to becommercial for South Australian tourism. flight attendant! That was an absolute thrill. as passionate about our grapes as we were.We haven’t tasted our last pinot noir. Can’twait to get some bottles of it! “The tempranillo goes to Ben Riggs and “We grow a super-premium chardonnay. has just won a trophy in Hong Kong. It beat I believe chardonnay is going to make a “Our sauvignon blanc goes to Steve all those Spaniards! Apparently there were comeback soon because it’s such a goodPannell. The other week we were in the US 36 Spanish wines in the line-up. Ben also variety. I noticed in America recently a lotflying between Los Angeles and New York takes our shiraz and the tannat now to use of men are ordering it again.” McLaren Valeand were asked if we’d like a sauvignon under his own label, and the riesling goes grapegrower Dave Paxton has a theory: when people say they’re not drinking a particular variety that’s when it’s time to plant it! With over 30 years in the industry he should know. Will there be any winemakers coming out of the Hicks family? “Not from the next generation - our sons - because it came to them when they were older. But I have high hopes for the next generation,” says Kerry. “Our grandchildren could be the ones; they’ve been coming here since they were born; it’s been a major part of their lives. They get such joy out of the place. I’d love to see one of them get involved.” ADELAIDE HILLS TASTING STARTS PAGE 130. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 41

42 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

Sushimeets Shiraz25 YEARS ON, A NEW MATCH OF AUSSIE WINE AND JAPANESE FOOD DENNIS GASTINW I N E H A S T Y P I C A L LY been industry experts, which included Ms Fumiko Arisaka, the founder of Vinotheque magazineregarded in Japan as something for and one of Japan’s wine ‘legends’.‘foreign’ consumption, even though it hasa domestic wine industry that dates back To underline the traditional food focus,well over a century. So, if you are eating we served the selection of six JapaneseFrench food, you will typically drink French dishes in a bento, the traditional lacquerwine; or if you are eating Italian food, you meal box, and presented six Australianwill drink Italian wine. wines that we thought would match each dish - emphasising the innovative approach The association between France and to food and wine matching that has alwaysItaly and attractive new consumption been the spirit of Australia.experiences goes well beyond wine andfood in the Japanese consciousness, Some of the combinations were chosenbecause both of these European countries to confront conventional thinking - forare renowned for perfumes, cosmetics, example, presenting a flor fino sherry as thefashion products and the like. accompaniment to mini-spring rolls, and a pinot noir to accompany salmon sashimi. With Australia lacking an established It worked a treat, and a good proportion ofreputation in any of these areas it has been those participating were then signed up intoan enormous challenge to win space in an ‘Australian Wine by the Glass’ promotionits consumers’ mind for Australian wine. that we had set up to try to carry the messageBut convincing the Japanese that Australian out to a broader consumer audience.wine is a natural partner for traditionalJapanese cuisine has always appealed to The challenge is still there, 25 yearsme as a (perhaps ‘far out’) way of gaining later. Despite its dominance in many of theand keeping attention in this market. world’s biggest wine markets, Australian wine has still made only a moderate impact Twenty five years ago, during the first ‘wine on the collective Japanese palate. Ourboom’ in Japan, I was working there as market share, interestingly, did get as highAustralia’s senior trade commissioner and, as 14 per cent in 1985, but it has not beenaccordingly, was responsible for promoting so high since then and tends to move in theAustralian wine in that market. To test this range between six and nine per cent - withproposition, we invited around 200 Japanese France and Italy still dominating.chefs and restaurant managers to a tastingat Tokyo’s Palace Hotel to show how that Opposite: The food selection in a bento. © Fumio Ochiai.might work. We were supported by a panel of May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 43

On the 25th anniversary of the original It was exciting to event, the current head of the Wine Australia see the strength of office in Tokyo, Hiro Tejima, invited Ms reaction to these Arisaka and me to give it another try, and wines, specifically in so a contemporary version of the original the context of classic was put on in March at The Westin Tokyo Japanese dishes. for the trade, the media and supporters of Wine Australia Japan’s Twitter site. And it with several commenting that it was the ideal worked a treat, once again. wine for cherry blossom viewing picnics - with one Tweet noting that it must be served in The biggest hit of the evening was, clear plastic cups to highlight its floral tone. undoubtedly, the 2009 Angove’s Nine Vines Grenache Shiraz Rose. Ms Arisaka spoke The other wine that was considered extensively about the beautiful colour and a good match for a broader range of generous flavours of this rose and its versatility dishes was the 2005 Tyrrell’s Steven across a broad range of traditional Japanese Vineyard Hunter Semillon. There were lots dishes. This point was extensively relayed on of comments about the tight structure of posts on Twitter from those in attendance, the wine and its crisp acid finish being particularly appropriate for Japanese foodsBLEND OF NATIONS where condiments such as soy sauce, wasabi, ginger and salt are routine. The wines and food dishes at the 25th anniversary event. THE WINES Welcome sparkling: Grant Burge Moscato Frizzante 2009 (Barossa Valley) Ashbrook Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (Margaret River) Tyrrell's Stevens Vineyard Hunter Semillon 2005 (Hunter Valley) Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2005 (Clare Valley) Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay 2008 (Adelaide Hills) Angove’s Nine Vines Grenache Shiraz Rose 2009 (Riverland) Stonier Pinot Noir 2007 (Mornington Peninsula) Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz 2004 (Grampians) Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot 2006 (Margaret River) THE FOOD Simmered vegetables Deep-fried shrimps with tsubomina (a variety of leaf mustard) Tempura of kisu (whiting) Japanese-style omelet with nanohana (canola stalk and florets) Braised burdock (thistle root) Tuna and sea bream sashimi Natto (fermented soybeans) temaki sushi with shiso leaves (a type of mint) Kanpyo temaki sushi (dried gourd strips) Aussie beef tataki (lightly seared) with wasabi soy sauce Grilled lamb with rosemary and garlic Steamed rice with bamboo shoot Miso soup and Japanese pickles44 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010

Both wines are genuine quality wines, present Australian wines with more specific * Denis Gastin, a former Australian tradewith lots of kudos in Australia: this Tyrrell’s formulations of traditional bento - such as official in China and Japan, wrote in thesemillon has so far won four trophies and the eki-ben (combinations of regional food March/April issue of Winestate about howat least 10 gold medals despite being specialties sold at railway stations) and Australia must view the Asian region as aon the market only a few months, and Makunouchi-bento (‘between act’ bento, whole range of countries, rather than just athe Angove’s wine was listed by James served during intermission at Kabuki single region. Denis has written extensivelyHalliday in his top 100 Australian Wines. theatre performances). about the Asian wine industry in wine andBut it was exciting to see the strength of liquor industry publications in Japan andreaction to these wines, specifically in the So we might be on to something after all. South Korea and on the official Australiacontext of classic Japanese dishes. Wine Japanese language website. One specific match that particularlyappealed was Petaluma Hanlin Hill Rieslingwith tempura whiting; it also worked withtamago-yaki (a kind of egg omelet) servedwith canola shoots and braised burdock(thistle root). Another one was the crisp andfresh Ashbrook Estate Sauvignon Blanc withthe simmered vegetables. Shaw & Smith’sM3 Chardonnay was tagged ‘world class’by a journalist from the Yomiuri Shimbunnewspaper. Stonier’s pinot noir surprised mostpeople as a match with tuna sashimi. It wasof no particular surprise that Cullen’s DianeMadeline Cabernet Merlot was seen to matchthe beef and lamb dishes - notwithstandingthe wasabi, soy sauce and garlic. The ‘fun’ bit was the natto temaki sushidish. Natto is a fermented soybean that isvery popular in Tokyo cuisine; it’s a smelly,strangely textured food that Japaneseexpect foreigners to totally eschew - evenmost Japanese from Osaka and furthersouth wouldn’t even dream of eating natto.But I reckon the natural yeast in this dishdoes interesting things with the flavour andtexture of big red wines, and, especially,Australian shiraz. So we paired the MountLanghi Ghiran Shiraz with this dish (wherethe natto is laid on rice with a leaf of theunique, mint-related shiso plant and wrappedin seaweed) and we encouraged people todip it generously into the soy sauce. This wasa big hit! Very few people had expected toenjoy this combination, and it generated awave of excited chatter and Tweets. Ms Arisaka says the bento/wine conceptworked so well that she’d like to extend it toAbove: Ms Fumiko Arisaka, founder of Vinotheque magazine. Below: The presentation panel - Hiro Tejima,Wine Australia Japan, Denis Gastin, Fumiko Arisaka. Opposite: Guests enjoying the occasion. © Fumio Ochiai. May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 45

Versatility ANDREW CORRIGAN MWof Merlot M E R L O T , along with its cabernet A classic Bordeaux blender and its willing accomplices sauvignon bigger brother and lesser-known varieties cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot, have their home in the French region of Bordeaux. Cabernet sauvignon dominates the western sub-region of Medoc, while merlot dominates the eastern sub-regions of Pomerol and St Emilion. Most Bordeaux wines are blends of the varieties but merlot is also made as a wine in its own right. In contrast to the usual practice in Bordeaux of blending varieties, in Australia cabernet sauvignon is commonly available as a single variety wine and is generally of very good quality. But blends are also common in Australia and the wines are often referred to as “Bordeaux blends” or, occasionally, “cabernets”. An interesting recent development in Australia is using petit verdot, cabernet franc and malbec as single varieties. Cabernet sauvignon is the full name but it is often simply referred to as “cabernet”. While there is not as much planted as shiraz, it is a backbone red variety in Australia with a long history. Merlot is not as common, while cabernet franc and petit verdot are rare. Merlot is thinner-skinned than cabernet sauvignon, so has less colour depth. Merlot ripens on the vine more easily and gives greater crop levels than cabernet, but is more easily damaged by frosts. In Medoc, on the side closer to the Atlantic Ocean, the soil type is gravelly and the climate cooler. Here cabernet dominates; producers have a minority amount of merlot and traditionally describe it as “insurance” due to merlot’s ability to be harvested earlier and therefore deliver a crop even if wet weather strikes the later ripening cabernet sauvignon. On the eastern side, further inland, where the heavier clay and sand soils are found, St Emilion and Pomerol are renowned for merlot and cabernet franc. Merlot is not

MERLOT IS KNOWN IN AUSTRALIA AS A BLENDER MAJOR AND MINOR ROLESWITH CABERNET SAUVIGNON BECAUSE ITS SOFTER,FLESHIER TASTE COMPLEMENTS THE TANNINS AND Key characteristics of these blending varieties:DRYNESS OF THE LATTER. M E R L OT - aromas of tomato bushas resistant as cabernet sauvignon to as that of merely a softener for cabernethumidity and diseases, so it seems to do sauvignon, because merlot can be a fine and red berries in colder, less ripenedbest in drier, milder inland regions. There wine on its own. It can overcrop easily (if it regions, and toffee fruit cake in warmer,is rivalry between the cabernet “princes is not pruned back and receives too much more ripened conditions; juicy, silky taste.of Medoc”, who see their more tannic moisture in the growing season) and then Good Australian examples are Heggies,wines that need time to mature as being creates a soft, light, spicy red - and hence Yalumba (Barossa/Eden Valley); Peppertreenobler, and the producers of St Emilion a low reputation as a “nothing” wine. Its (Coonawarra); Evans&Tate, Fermoy Estateand Pomerol, who make juicier wines that reputation created by cheap, high-volume (Margaret River); Tappanappa Whalebonecan be drunk earlier. One of the world’s examples in the US was famously trashed in Vineyard (Wrattonbully).most expensive collectable wines, Chateau the movie Sideways a few years ago, whenPetrus from Pomerol - of which a recent the film hero made it clear that merlot was CABERNET SAUVIGNON -vintage brought about $700 a bottle - is not a serious wine. The well-known joke ismade completely of merlot. Another famous that later in the film he decides to open his aromas of blackcurrants, cassis liqueur,and stratospherically priced collectable special bottle of Cheval Blanc, not realising cedar, tobacco. Long palate textureis Chateau Cheval Blanc, which is made that it contains a large proportion of his with firm, mouth-drying tannins; Goodfrom 60 per cent cabernet franc and 40 despised variety, merlot. Australian examples abound - such asper cent merlot. In Bordeaux and countries such as Wynns, Majella, Brand’s Laira, ZemaCabernet sauvignon and merlot are Argentina, Chile and Italy, where a lot Estate (Coonawarra); Moss Wood, Cullen,excellent bedfellows. Cabernet sauvignon of merlot is grown, the flavour of the Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix, Watershed,tends to have a firm tannin taste (quite a dry wine usually relies on the grapes alone Lenton Brae (Margaret River); Wirra Wirrasensation; think of a cup of tea made with and gives a blackcurrant/tomato bush/ Angelus (McLaren Vale); Coldstream Hillstwo teabags!) and a long, thin, dry palate mushroom aroma in a cooler region and (Yarra Valley); O’Leary Walker (Clare).shape. It can be softened and filled out in a fruit-cake/ripe plum flavour in a warmerthe mid-palate by blending in some merlot. location. In Australia and to a certain extent C A B E R N E T F R A N C - good colourMerlot is known in Australia as a blender in California, where merlot is popular, thewith cabernet sauvignon because its softer, affinity of the grape for oak barrel flavour and leafy, light-perfumed red cherry aromafleshier taste complements the tannins and is utilised and a lot of richness exists due and quite soft mid-palate taste, yet withdryness of the latter. to barrel maturation. good length and surprisingly high backMerlot helps the wines attain earlier Famous American critic Robert Parker palate tannin, hence a good blendingdrinkability - an important criteria in a likes big, intense wines and producers component. An example is d’Arenbergconsumer market where there may be talk have reacted to satisfy his taste, knowing Galvo Garage (McLaren Vale).of cellars and ageing but in fact most wines the result will be fame and a higher priceare consumed fairly young. This blending tag in the lucrative US market. There have P E T I T V E R D OT - very dark colour androle is the conventional wisdom for the been examples of wines such as Le Pinsuccess of the blend. However, it is an from Pomerol, which have leapt in price full body, often with high tannin, hence it isoversimplification to consider merlot’s role due to a following by Parker. a great blending component. Single-variety examples include Kingston Estate EchelonMERLOT & BORDEAUX VARIETAL TASTING STARTS PAGE 124. (Riverland); Ravenscroft (Granite Belt); and Zilzie Estate (North-Western Victoria). M A L B E C - black colour and rich though earthy taste. Very prone to humidity-related disease and hence very little is left in Bordeaux. An example is Cullen Mangan (Margaret River). May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 47

oQUfEsSTuIOrvNiSval “THIS IS the most influential group of wine speakers ever to get together in one In the first article in a two-part series, place,” said Gary Vaynerchuk, the world’s d’Arenberg winemaker Chester Osborn analyses leading Tweeter on wine with over 850,000 the 2009 Wine Future Rioja conference visitors each day to his site. So how many Aussies attended the two-day Wine Future48 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010 Rioja conference in Logrono, Spain, in November? Just three! - even though Spain is such a great place to play, with 6000 wineries and 18,000 labels overall. So, since 99.99986 per cent of Australia missed arguably “the most important wine conference ever”, I will attempt in this and the next issue of Winestate to summarise the interesting and important ways to move into the future of wine. During the most important part of the conference, most of the ‘gurus’ were up on stage to be questioned about what

were the biggest challenges for the wine Now that the figures are and new profiles are being developedindustry. The issues (in no particular order coming out it’s clear this is and overall there is a big sense of place -or ranking) were: a worldwide wine problem. the taste of terroir, with wines of character.• The global financial crisis of 2009 Speaker after speaker• Globalisation and financial exchange rates confirmed the difficult situation Quinn Vila of Vilaviniteca, one of the most• Adulteration of wine in their own countries. important Spanish distributors, explained• The active internet that sales were down 15 per cent in Spain• The proliferation of wineries and new wines In France it was reported for his company but many customers were• Global warming that the huge Champagne down 35 per cent. I noticed in the La Prensa• Staying in business houses are 50-85 per cent del Rioja magazine that sales of Rioja for• Profitability, sustainability and the down on sales. In Bordeaux, 2008 were down 7.4 per cent but Reserva Paul Pontellier, director of and Grand Reserva were down 10.5 and environment winemaking at Chateau 14.7 per cent respectively. Now that’s for We are all aware of the financial crisis and Margaux, and Matthew 2008, when only four months of the year wereits effect on the wine industry. Unfortunately Chadronnier, head of CVBG caught in the global financial crisis. It will beAustralia, with its transparency of group, the leading company interesting to see the 2009 sales figures.information, showed its dirty linen first and in the distribution of Bordeauxwe were treated as if we were on our own, grand cru wines, explained Quinn’s suggested way out of this was toas British wine writer Jancis Robinson MW that the grand crus in Bordeaux seem offer better customer service and to increasevehemently emphasised our dire situation. to be okay but the rest of Bordeaux the customer base, dropping delivery time (that’s 99 per cent of the production from 34 to 18 hours, allowing orders of three from 120,000ha – 70 per cent of the total bottles and even one bottle. Before you Australian production) is in dire straits budding Aussie winemakers think, “Let’s and has been for years. sell to Spain,” remember that Spain imports Many Bordelaise are fighting for survival only one per cent of its wine consumption. for a few main reasons. One: having the appellation controlee system considerably But if you reckon it’s hard for the Aussies, disadvantages winemaking options. Two: French and Spanish, take a look at the too many small producers of unknown Russian wine trade. Domitric Pinski of DP brands abound with insufficient distribution Trade (the most important distributor and (under 10,000 cases). Three: they can’t importer of wine and spirits in Russia) compete in the $5-a-bottle area since the described how the Russian government climate is wrong; vintage is too cold and was again creating a monopoly of wine summer has dominant rainfall patterns. production - although d’Arenberg’s Russian Matthew did point out that there are some agent, Forte, says this is only a rumour. positives. Quality is increasing, new terroirs are being promoted, new generations One million jobs are possibly at risk. The monopoly is Russia’s way of combating corruption, which is rife (half of Russian vodka is counterfeit). May/June 2010 W I N E S TAT E 49

The pathways of success are getting out I believe there are too many competitionsthere and telling people about wine. and so there is a lack of ‘reproducibility’ and credibility. And the shows can haveIn 2005 the wine market was frozen for about wine.” Spanish winery owner Alvaro the effect of globalising a standard taste.months for no reason and now no one Palacios spends 190 days a year on the This also comes from having so few veryis taking responsibility for the blunder. road. Ernie Loosen, of Dr Loosen Wines influential wine media, as we see from theInterest rates in Russia are at 25 per cent; in Germany, travels 330 days a year and ‘Parker effect’. Many regions worldwidewine sales in 2009 were down 40 per cent; says, “85 per cent of new products fail; are making bigger, fatter, earlier-drinkingbrands are being dropped everywhere. it’s tough.” One word of advice I wouldn’t wines than before.Consumption of wine is at six litres per have agreed with was that Esteban thinksperson a year, compared with 14.3 litres for the French should promote their product The high-alcohol discussion happened atspirits and 81 litres for beer. And internet as French wine rather than under individual the end of the conference, with both winesales are not allowed. appellations. critics, Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson, fine with a 15 per cent level, if the wine Esteban Cabezas from the Wine Academy If we listen to Baudin Havaux of Concours is balanced. Robert went on to say that,of Spain (formerly of Colgate-Palmolive, Mondial de Bruxelles, one of the most “some regions, and some years, makeAllied Domecq and Coca-Cola) said there important internal wine competitions, he high-alcohol wines. They should make thewas not a single wine industry in each would have us entering his show because best wine possible and sometimes theycountry, but instead there were different it’s cheap and gets a high media profile. need to be that ripe”. Jancis, however,areas of the industry, through different Two thirds of his judges are journalists. ridiculed the fashion of long grape hangprice points. “The pathways of success Of course you have to win, but it can be a time in vineyards, which I must agreeare getting out there and telling people great marketing tool. On the negative side, with. It can make the wines dead of fruit - somewhat lifeless. Paul Pontellier, from Chateau Margeaux, thinks that times of crisis create an opportunity to make better wines. I’m not sure if I totally agree. I think you should make the best wine you can - always! * Next issue: Part 2. More from Justin Howard-Sneyd MW (Waitrose); Miguel Torres (Torres Wines); Nicola Jenkin (WRAP); Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW (Wine Advocate); Don St Pierre (ASC Wines, China); Ulf Sjodin MW (Scandinavian wine consultant); Richard Habtead (Wine Intelligence); Tim Hanni (Diversity Wine Awards); Robert Joesph MW (wine critic); Jeremy Benson (New York wine marketer); and Andrew Jefford MW (wine writer).50 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2010