Winestate Magazine December 2020

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE Pinot Noir 147 tasted New Releases THE ARGUMENT FOR OAK! 159 tasted FUMÉ BLANC Rosé A CASE OF MISTAKEN IDENTITY 126 tasted December 2020 leconfield Vol 43 Issue 6 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) a NOT-SO-SECREt success NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 watkins family wines EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 sets a new course plus Limestone Coast • Rosé • Riesling • Sauvignon Blanc & Blends • Pinot Gris/Grigio Semillon & Blends • Pinot Noir • Hawkes Bay (NZ) • New Releases

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TAKE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED AND DISCOVER A HIDDEN GEM, WHICHER RIDGE WINES. Whicher Ridge is the result of 10 years of work by the dynamic duo of Neil and Cathy Howard, a vigneron and winemaker couple with a combined 50 years of grape growing and winemaking experience between them. The couple specialise in making small batch, single vineyard wines which are full of varietal and terroir specific flavours, from vines grown in the ancient soils of three of Australia’s most isolated wine regions in the south west of Western Australia. For those unable to visit the Cellar Door in person, Whicher Ridge has created wine tasting kits with a selection of samples of their single vineyard wines. The Kits are delivered direct to you with free shipping and a discount coupon to use on your wine purchase. When travelling next to the Margaret River Region, make sure that you visit the Whicher Ridge Cellar Door for a totally unique wine tasting experience, the centrepiece of which is the Wine Sensory Garden. The Garden is the only one of its kind in Australia and has been a consistent regional award winner in the annual Gourmet Traveller Wine Cellar Door Awards. Visit the website for more information on the wine tasting kits and the wine tasting experiences on offer. 200 Chapman Hill E Rd, Chapman Hill WA 6280 E: [email protected] P: 0448 531 399 W: www.whicherridge.com.au WhicherRidgeWines whicherridgewines Scan the QR code to watch our story video on YouTube

NO.304 DECEMBER 2020 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Uniquely Yorke NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Peninsula Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Cellar Door and Function Centre Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd Open 7 days 10am-5pm International DAI Rubicon Maitland, South Australia Phone (08) 8834 1258 WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. barleystackswines.com Copyright 2020 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 5

contents DECEMBER 2020 FEATURES 24 A NOT-SO-SECRET RECIPE 24 36 Leconfield Wines has an incredible 36 F U M E B L A N C . A C A S E O F R E G U L A R S Australian winemaking history and MISTAKEN IDENTITY that legacy continues today, writes 10 Briefs Karyn Foster. Still winning swags What exactly is Fumé Blanc we 18 European Report with Sally Easton of awards including in this issue's hear you ask? Good question! Clive 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley various tastings, Leconfield proves Hartley delves into the conundrum 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King their recipe for success is one worth of this most interesting style that is 44 Grapevine following. derived from the variety of sauvignon 48 What’s it Worth? blanc with the added use of oak 109 Subscription Form 28 THE ARGUMENT FOR OAK! and can sometimes even feature the 114 Aftertaste supporting varietals of semillon or Love it or hate it, one thing that's muscadelle. W I N E TAST I N G S obvious is that more often than not its needed. The real challenge comes in 40 SETTING A NEW COURSE FOR 52 Limestone Coast & Surrounds knowing when to use it, how to use it SUCCESS 58 Riesling and how much of it to use, writes Joy 62 Sauvignon Blanc & Blends Walterfang. As Nigel Hopkins writes, \"It's one of 66 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio the biggest wineries you've never 70 Pinot Noir 32 REACHING NEW HEIGHTS heard of!\" As one half of the previous 76 Semillon & Blends Fleurieu Vintners partnership, who 80 Rosé Feeling housebound in these made and sold huge volumes of 88 Hawkes Bay, NZ current difficult pandemic times? premium wine to other wineries, the 97 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases Winsor Dobbin is here to help Watkins family have now launched with a tantalising article on Italy's its own label - Watkins Family Wines. picturesque Alto Adige region and So even though they are setting out whilst small in winegrowing terms, on their own, they are far from starting this area makes up for it with over 20 from scratch! different grape varieties set amongst stunning scenery. Start saving your pennies now for when the borders open back up! 40 102 New Releases and Best Value Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine Issue Number 304 For a complete list of what we tasted for this December 2020 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Cover photograph Daniela Pelazza 6 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

A helping hand in crafting fine wines In the modern, dynamic wine industry the hand crafting of great wines is often overlooked. Whilst only 2% of the world’s wines are made using new oak barrels, a high proportion of the ‘great wines’ of the world are handcrafted in them. For almost two centuries the cooperages of the Tonnellerie François Frères Group have been producing barrels for these wines. The TFF Group has evolved from humble beginnings to now having its brands internationally recognised throughout the wine world. Through its Demptos Research Centre at the University of Bordeaux, it has over the last 20 years quantified the science to explain why new oak barrels provide that added dimension to allow very good fruit to realise its full potential. Classic Oak, on behalf of the TFF Group, is proud to lend a helping hand to the premium programs of many Australian and New Zealand producers. Australia: (02) 9479 4700 New Zealand: 021 500 607 [email protected] 04 472 6050 www.classicoakproducts.com [email protected]

“ A New Generation Has Arrived ” Let Grandeur Wellington make century old traditions a brand new experience. www.grandeurwellington.com.au 201 Blewitt Springs Road, McLaren Flat, South Australia 5171

editorial SOMETHING HAS BEEN HAPPENING OVER THE PAST FEW ISSUES, indeed over the next one, and back over the past few years. Wine Judges have been selecting more mid-weight wines than the blockbusters of the past. The number of so called alternative varietals has increased exponentially over the past few years, maybe not in volume, but certainly in the number of labels out there. Organic and biodynamic wines are growing rapidly as sustainability and environment are the new buzzwords and in some groups unless you support these you are considered a bad person. We support the trend with Australasia’s biggest blind judging of Organic & Biodynamic wines each year in Winestate, but don’t judge others who choose not to do so, or are in micro-climates where the procedure is too difficult to adhere to. Just as in the early eighties we had what I call the “Bordeaux period” where judges pushed the idea of lean and green 12 and 12.5% alcohol wines, to emulate those of the old country, thereby bringing winemakers to heel if they wanted to win medals, we are seeing a similar situation now where big is out and fruit driven low tannin wines are in. In some shows if you have \"provenance\" that will give you an extra point. We find that hard to swallow, as we do with wine reviews that are not judged blind. Another development is the rise of “natural” still wines or pet-nat (petillant - lightly sparkling natural) wines. As a cynical wine friend told me once, “show me a natural vine and I will show you a vine that crawls along the floor”. The big problem is that whilst there are some good examples, there are also some god-awful ones as well that may give you a headache in the morning and not just because you drank too much of it! Just because it is natural doesn’t necessarily make it good! It reminds me of an article we did in the eighties about histamine in poorly made wines. We interviewed a professor from the Australian Wine Research Institute who noted that wines from small Italian winemakers that were made in a “natural” way often contained levels of volatility and oxidation that created these headache producing histamines. Many of these wines were made without natural sulphur or had minimal added levels, not enough to curtail these problems. Clean, well made wines were not a problem, the professor noted. This article caused outrage in the industry at the time, but no doubt influenced winemakers to be a bit more diligent rather than letting nature just have its way. One of the other changes of the past few years is the level of oak used in wine, particularly in red wines. Generally, as the fruit weight has dropped so has the oak level, thereby creating a better balanced wine all round. In this issue, Joy Walterfang, interviews Oak industry leader, Peter Dunlop, CEO of Classic Oak. He offers a fascinating overview of the changes that have happened in the marketplace. Our other feature articles include a Fumé Blanc expose, along with an Alto Adige, Northern Italian regional feature and special reports on the Leconfield winery and the newly established Watkins Family wines. In this issue we have a great line up of judgings ranging from the regions of Limestone Coast in Australia to Hawkes Bay in New Zealand. Then we have the so called annual “style tastings” of semillon, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris/grigio and riesling and for red lovers a great tasting of pinot noirs. We have often talked about dry rosé being the ideal summer lunch drink and our rosé judging shows the rising interest in this wine style. And of course, new releases rounds out a comprehensive issue of wine reviews. Lots to taste and lots to like! Cheers! Your wine, our ports. Peter Simic Australia Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. Editor/Publisher Major Sponsors and Supporters Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs A DIFFERENT TAKE ON GIN RETIREMENT OR REBOOT? TAYLOR and Smith's Dry Gin, made in a tiny distillery in WHAT do you do when you retire from the family business after 40 suburban Hobart, was named the winner of 2020’s Best Small years of crafting fine wines - particularly riesling? Batch Spirit Award at the Tasting Australia Spirit Awards. The Taylor & Smith Dry Gin ($85) also won gold in the London Dry If you are Neil Pike you start your own wine label and relax by Gin category, and the Taylor & Smith Gin ($85) won bronze in spending some time in the kitchen. Pike retired from the family the Best Contemporary Spirit section. Clare Valley winery last year but has now started his own label: Limefinger, with a 2020 riesling grown just a couple of minutes from Taylor & Smith’s Dry Gin is billed as \"a beautifully aromatic gin with Watervale Township. a unique character and an array of striking botanicals and other ingredients, including abalone shell, paired with a quintessentially The Limefinger 2020 The Learnings Riesling was made in tiny Tasmanian ingredient: the needles of the native Huon Pine tree\". quantities, just 3,000 bottles, and retails for $37.50. “We love experimenting,” says Natalie Smith, one half of team \"After 40+ vintages working in the Clare Valley/Watervale one learns Taylor & Smith. “Huon Pine always makes me think of being in the a few things along the way,\" Pike says. It has been a privilege to be Tasmanian landscape, of rivers and crisp clean air. It’s an icon of able to apply those learnings to such a gorgeous parcel of fruit.\" Tasmanian flora and Tasmanian timber, too so it just made sense to try it in the Dry Gin.” Pike has also been cooking up a storm, including crafting some Limefinger lemon/lime oil pickle that he recommends using when The water that feeds directly to the distillery comes from a lake of cooking chicken. Paired with riesling, of course. snow melt at Mount Field National Park. Taylor & Smith Distilling Co. is an artisan distillery based in the Hobart suburb of Moonah that is HISTORIC VENUE EXPANDS owned and run by Smith and Ben Taylor. THE historic Knappstein Wines site in the Clare Valley is en- “All ingredients are as local as possible, even the abalone shells are route to being one of the snazziest cellar door facilities in South sourced from family dives on the East Coast of Tasmania. Abalone Australia. The first of three newly renovated cellar door venues shell is used in Chinese medicine and the calcium carbonate on the heritage-listed site has just been launched with two more neutralises acids while adding a slight salinity,” says Taylor. on the way. The new Knappstein tasting room is now open to the public and more than triples Knappstein’s tasting room capacity. Visit www.taylorandsmith.com.au for more information. Later in 2020, the Knappstein wine lounge and underground cellar venue will be unveiled. This is the first major renovation of the property in the last 15 years and spans the entirety of the heritage- listed Enterprise Brewery building first established in 1878. Knappstein Wines’ Tania Matz feels the renovations will breathe new life to the property and Knappstein brand. “We’re thrilled with the renovations,\" she said. \"It’s exciting to now have a cellar door that matches Knappstein’s rich history and enviable winemaking reputation.” The new cellar door sales and tasting room has moved from the north side of the Enterprise Brewery to the long frontage of the building, giving visitors a more expansive space to enjoy a Knappstein tasting experience. The focal point of the room is a long granite tasting bench to be used for guided tastings. In the south end of the room is a seating 10 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

briefs area, giving guests the space to relax with a glass of wine or a “The St Hallett winemaking philosophy is relatively simple, minimal ‘build your own’ platter with fresh produce from local providores. intervention and maximum attention,” new chief winemaker Helen McCarthy says. “We tailor fermentation and maturation to each The north end of the room is sectioned off by a floor-to-ceiling parcel of the highest quality fruit to reveal the rich textures, depth display, creating a semi-private area for large group tastings and diversity of Barossa fruit. and events. The design of the renovations highlights the room’s original features, like the structural timber beams in the bulkhead “With every vintage our winemaking team learn more about the and original sandstone facade of the building. influence of the site on the flavour and quality of the wines. We are thrilled to be sharing some of our best wines yet in the 2020 Knappstein’s new wine lounge, to be opened later this year, annual vintage release.” takes over the site's original tasting room and repurposes the space into a cosy retreat for guests. ON THE RISE Visitors can access the wine lounge through the new tasting THERE is no stopping Accolade Wines - already one of the room, or via the north side of the building, allowing for the space world’s largest producers of new world wines. Accolade has to be used as a private venue for small events. confirmed the acquisition of Katnook Estate in the heart of the Coonawarra wine region. For the first time in the property’s history, Knappstein will open to the public its underground cellar. Accessed through the main stairs of the new wine lounge, the underground cellar will be a unique space for Knappstein’s major events, live music performance, private tastings, and dinner functions. Towards the back of the cellar, Knappstein has created an exclusive museum display room to house the winery’s back vintages. The brand has had several owners over the past three decades. Due to Covid-19 venue restrictions, Knappstein’s cellar door sales and tasting room is currently limited to 40 guests maximum for seated tastings only. For information visit www.knappstein.com.au. NEW OFFERINGS FROM ICONIC WINERY Under the terms of the deal with current owner the Wingara Wine Group, Accolade Wines will acquire the historic Katnook CELEBRATED Barossa winery St Hallett debuted three new Estate brand, winery, cellar door and control of approximately premium wines as part of the brand’s inaugural annual vintage 160 hectares of premium vineyards on the famed terra rossa release on November 12. soils of the Coonawarra. Katnook’s heritage stretches back to 1896, when the Coonawarra’s second vintage was made in Alongside St Hallett’s the Katnook woolshed by Scottish immigrant and Australian two new vintage wines winemaking pioneer John Riddoch. – the 2016 Old Block Shiraz and 2018 Accolade Wines Chief Executive Officer Robert Foye said Blackwell Shiraz – the the acquisition would not only add a much-loved brand to the winery unveiled the company’s portfolio but would allow Accolade Wines to secure 2018 Higher Earth additional premium wine for the 2021 vintage, underpinning its Syrah, 2018 Mighty global expansion and the premiumisation of existing brands Ox Shiraz (1.5L including Grant Burge, St Hallett, Hardys and Petaluma. magnums) and St Hallett’s most luxurious shiraz to date, the 2015 Planted 1919. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs “As we modernise these brands’ marketing and packaging, innovate into new higher-value product tiers and expand the distribution of these brands globally, we need access to more premium wine,” Foye said. GREAT COLLABORATION JACKSON Family Wines, the family-owned American wine company founded by the late Jess Jackson in 1982, has announced the purchase of Giant Steps in Victoria’s Yarra Valley. Recognised as a world-class producer of single-vineyard chardonnay and pinot noir, Giant Steps joins Yangarra Estate Vineyard and Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard in McLaren Vale, as part of Jackson Family Wines in Australia. “This is a remarkable new chapter for Giant Steps,” said is made by renowned McLaren Vale winemaker Ben Riggs, who founder and former owner Phil Sexton. “The Jackson family has also works with former Australian cricket captain Ricky Ponting. demonstrated an invaluable commitment to the Australian wine community over the last two decades, and we feel confident in The 295 McLaren Vale Shiraz is a limited-run release with only our shared vision for the winery’s future. 1063 bottles produced - the exact number of points scored by the trio in tests for the Wallabies. Drew Mitchell said the \"The recognition of the diversity of the Yarra Valley, and the new addition to the range is a tribute to the trio’s rugby career development of ‘great dirt as vineyards’ is what brought the together in the Wallabies’ backline. Jackson family and Giant Steps initially together and will continue to be our key goal.” “Gits, AAC and I have collectively played 295 games in the Wallabies’ backline,\" he said. \"You form an incredible mateship, The acquisition includes the purchase of Giant Steps’ Sexton and on and off the field, when playing in the backline, and this wine Applejack vineyards (75 hectares in total), while Giant Steps will captures this perfectly, alongside our commitment to excellence continue to source fruit from Tarraford, Wombat Creek, Primavera, and our love for a laugh. It’s a wine that is full of character and is and Gruyere Farm vineyards. the ultimate expression of a McLaren Vale shiraz.” Sexton will continue his role as founder and general manager The bottle is a talking point in itself finished with an embossed and Steve Flamsteed will remain chief winemaker. Giant Steps will bronzed label and wax-sealed by hand. The 295 McLaren Vale continue to work closely with its national distributor: red+white. Shiraz ($295 per six pack, of course) joins Backline’s existing line- up of the Backline Block Raider’ Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2018. The Jackson Family Wines owns brands across the globe including name paying homage to one of the boys’ favourite plays at $139 Kendall-Jackson and Lokoya in California and wineries in France, per case of six and the “Je Fais” Langhorne Creek Cabernet blend; Chile, Italy, and South Africa. “Je Fais” meaning ‘I do’. This also retails for $139 per case of six. SERIOUS ABOUT SPORT AND WINE The range also includes the Pilou Pilou Fleurieu Peninsula Rosé 2020, named after the infamous war cry of the famous Toulon club, FORMER Australian rugby internationals Adam Ashley-Cooper, where both Giteau and Mitchell played. This is $114 for a six pack. Matt Giteau and Drew Mitchell are getting serious about the wine business. The trio recently launched a wine range that plays tribute For more details see www.backlinewines.com.au to their time in the Wallabies’ backline with each wine being crafted based on a memory from the game or life outside rugby. INSPIRING INDIGENOUS ART AND WINE Their newest drop, a McLaren Vale Shiraz dubbed ‘295’ after OWNER-operators Robert and Kellie Gherardi have reopened the number of games they collectively played for the Wallabies, their Mr Barval cellar door in Margaret River with the on-site gallery’s new art exhibition Wandjina: The Rainmaker. The exhibition unifies a number of talented artists from the remote Indigenous community of Kalumburu in the Kimberley, where the Gherardi family recently spent three months living in the local community as part of Kellie’s remote-area nursing work. The exhibition will be the first-ever whole-of-community collaboration of the local artist groups from the remote 12 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

briefs When the oceans receded, they left the area rich with deep limestone deposits containing marine fossils. Those deposits add to the rich, fertile soils of the region, which produce the grapes that make the wine. The range comprises a 2019 Chardonnay, a 2019 Shiraz (with a dash of pinot gris and riesling in the blend) and a 2019 Rosé. For details see www.thehiddensea.com. Indigenous community in the Kimberley region of Western PROSECCO PROSPERS Australia. The artworks have travelled thousands of kilometres to be on show in the Mr Barval cellar door. WHEN prosecco was introduced into Australia, largely by Italians in the King Valley, it was “This is the first-ever time the separate artist groups in seen as a cheap and cheerful alternative to Kalumburu have joined forces as a collective – so it’s a whole- entry level bubbles. of-community initiative,” said Kellie. But tank-fermented prosecco, made from the Home to around 470 residents, Kalumburu is the most remote Italian glera grape, has grown to be a category permanent settlement in Western Australia and is located on of its own and Brown Brothers are among the the King Edward River, 550km from Kununurra and 650km leading flag wavers for the style. Brown Brothers from Derby. began making prosecco in 2007 and now produce 34.6% of the industry segment. “Immersing ourselves in the community in Kalumburu was an extraordinary experience for our family,\" said Kellie. \"We met The Brown family range includes Prosecco some remarkable people; our kids went to school there, we NV, Prosecco Rosé and Prosecco Spritz and even took our dog Sam all the way up there! now a new entrant: Brown Brothers NV Brut Premium Prosecco, which sells for around $27 “This art exhibition means a lot and is available online, as well as at BWS and to us – we lived and breathed Dan Murphy's stores. Kalumburu, and we feel privileged to bring a little part of it home to Brown Brothers, with over 130 year in Margaret River in the form of these the wine industry, say the new wine is \"the incredible artworks.” pinnacle\" of their prosecco range and is a single vineyard wine made in a drier style than best-selling Prosecco NV. The exhibition is not-for-profit, with majority proceeds from the art sales \"Prosecco is the perfect beverage for relaxed social occasions, going directly to the artists and the picnics with friends or the great beginning of a night in,\" says remainder being channelled into Senior Brand Manager John Biggar. \"Our new Premium Brut wine community health and wellness is crafted from our very best (King Valley) fruit and is made to be projects in Kalumburu. See www. the prosecco for special moments.\" mrbarval.com NEW RELEASE FOR AN OLD FAVOURITE A HIDDEN GEM PROTECTING OUR SEAS JIM Barry's The Armagh is one of Australia's greatest red wines, a SOUTH Australian wine brand Hidden Sea has distinguished itself Clare Valley shiraz of both style and substance. by pledging to remove the equivalent of 10 plastic bottles from the ocean for every bottle sold - using a completely trackable process. So, when family patriarch Peter Barry says: “This is the Armagh we’ve been waiting 30 years to make” you know you can expect With more than 8 million tonnes of plastics entering our oceans something special from the new release Armagh from the 2016 each year, and an already estimated 150 million tonnes already in vintage. the ocean wine drinkers can help turn the tide. Barry explains: \"Back in 1985, when my brother Mark and I set Hidden Sea is working with the www.reseaproject.com to remove about creating a great Australian shiraz, this was the wine we the equivalent of 60 plastic bottles from the oceans for each six- envisaged. It has taken 30 years of persistence and input from pack of wine sold. three generations, to craft what I believe is the best Armagh we have ever made. By 2030, the winery hopes to have removed a billion plastic bottles for recycling. \"It is with satisfaction that I look back on the journey that has brought us to this point, a journey that began in 1968 when my The wines are made at the former Stonehaven winery by Oliver father, Jim Barry, planted eight acres of shiraz vines near a village Crawford (once of Devil's Lair and Vasse Felix in Margaret River) called Armagh. using fruit from South Australia's Limestone Coast, which 26 million years ago was submerged by a vast ocean system. \"As a child, I remember hand watering the vines during the drought of 1969, from a 44-gallon drum on the back of a Holden FX ute. Dad December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs always encouraged us to carve out our own path and swim against Non-drinkers can enjoy freshly made scones, a gourmet platter, or the tide, saying 'if everyone is going one way, do not follow'. In 1985 a choice of daily lunch specials - house-made pies anyone? we did just that. When many in the Clare Valley were bulldozing and burning wonderful old shiraz vines, we took a risk and created For serious whisky lovers there is the membership of the The Armagh. Tasmanian Whisky Club, which offers exclusive releases four times a year, while there are also regular three-day distillery courses \"It is my greatest pleasure to share this special vintage with my own offering an up-close look at the distilling business. sons, Tom and Sam, and continue the journey with them. Tom, as winemaker, has shown tremendous respect for the past in making Old Kempton Distillery, Dysart House, 26 Main St, Kempton, this wine, while also capturing his own style. The 2016 Armagh Shiraz Tasmania. Phone (03) 6259 3082. www.oldkemptondistillery.com.au. is something that we will treasure and enjoy for years to come. It is a wonderful reflection of all we have achieved over six decades.\" ORIGINS OF ORGANIC The name Armagh was bestowed by the original Irish settlers who JOCH Bosworth and Louise Hemsley-Smith were way ahead arrived in 1849 and named the lush, rolling hills of the Clare after of the curve when they decided to convert their McLaren Vale their homeland. The 2016 will set you back $350. vineyard to organic. THE TOTAL PACKAGE Back in the mid-1990s, very few consumers had any idea what organics involved and organic winemaking is still niche today. TAKE a historic sandstone house built in the 1840s, add in one The couple behind Battle of Bosworth and Spring Seed were of Tasmania's best boutique distilleries, a country-style cafe the first to convert in McLaren Vale and this year marks their with friendly service and a courtyard with live music on summer 25th anniversary. McLaren Vale now has the highest number of weekends. Throw in beautiful gardens and whisky tours and organic vineyards in Australia and it all started back in 1995. tastings and you have Old Kempton Distillery just a 40-minute drive north of the Tasmanian capital of Hobart. Converting to organics was then a radical move, although extremely foresighted in hindsight. Organic wine sales in In addition to a range of single malt whiskies, distiller Matt Australia have soared in recent years. Fontaine crafts Embezzler Gin, Barley Vodka, Lavender Malt and Apple Liqueur, distilled from Tasmanian apple cider. From those early days, Bosworth Wines now produce more than 20 wines from their certified organic, family-owned estates The whiskies are matured in 20- or 100-litre single casks, under two labels and export to close to a dozen countries. previously used for ports, sherries, or pinot noir wines. As there was no existing methodology for modern McLaren Dysart House was once a colonial inn, nowadays it is a stylish spot Vale vineyards wanting to convert to organic, viticulturist Joch, in which to sink into a leather chair and sip on something special. had to largely invent his own after returning home to the Vale after a stint working in the US. This included pioneering the use It was built in 1842 by convict embezzler turned-innkeeper, of the local yellow soursob under the vines for weed control, William Ellis, and was one of the finest inns on the road from and the modification of a rotary hoe to cultivate only the soil Hobart to Launceston. It was recently home to writer and arts under the vines in order to remove weeds. patron Leo Schofield before being purchased by businessman John Ibrahim (not that one). Today, many of McLaren Vale’s organic growers use Joch’s rotary hoe technique in their own vineyards. And the humble The brick stables, once home to 22 horses, now house Old soursob (Bermuda buttercup) has become the brands logo. Kempton’s Tasmanian-made copper still, while a new distillery is almost completed. The on-site distillery tour offers the chance to see “I realised that McLaren Vale’s Mediterranean climate was well how the various spirits are made in copper pot stills and aged in small suited to organic viticulture”, said Joch. “Personally, I’d never oak casks, followed by a bespoke tasting of your favourite styles. been too keen on using chemicals, so I took what I knew and made a start, devising the process as I went using some ideas and advice from a few old growers in the district.” For details see www.battleofbosworth.com.au. 14 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

briefs CELEBRITY STATUS SELLS WINE Matt Moran says the reason for his involvement, which includes offering food matches for each of the wines, is quite simple. CELEBRITY helps to sell wine. Just ask Greg Norman, Kylie Minogue, or Graham Norton. All have enjoyed success adding their names to “I grew up on the farm and I’ve always had a passion for sourcing wine brands. Actor Sam Neill actually makes his own wines. great quality produce to create great tasting food,\" he said. \"Like paddock-to-plate, Grower Wines by The Group represent an exciting Now celebrity chef Matt Moran is joining in, partnering with a movement in the Australian wine industry. grower-owned collective to be known as The Group. The wines in the range aim to showcase the collective skills, quality, and expertise \"The Group’s collaboration with a Grower-Owned Collective paves of around 100 grape growers and their families to deliver a range the way for the hard-working growers and supports the local, real of premium wines from regions including McLaren Vale and the people behind the label. Establishing these connections is how Adelaide Hills. By working with the collective, The Group helps to you create honest, authentic and quality produce – whether its maintain the collective’s initial goal; to support the livelihood of the food or wine.” growers, and to facilitate the sharing of knowledge and expertise. The wines are made by the talented Marnie Roberts (ex-Claymore, On sale now at Liquorland and First Choice Liquor Market stores now Matriarch and Rogue), herself the daughter of a grape grower. nationally, the range includes four core varietals; The Murder 2017 McLaren Vale Shiraz; The Shadow 2019 Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir; “The collective knowledge, passion and experience that’s passed The Quiver 2019 McLaren Vale Grenache and The Fever 2018 down through generations of growers is really special,\" she said. McLaren Vale Grower Blend. A limited-edition The Siege 2019 \"These growers are experts on the fruit they grow, and what grapes McLaren Vale Shiraz will follow. The core range will sell for $34, make the finest wines possible.\" with The Siege at $70. Half bottles will soon be available for $22. For details on the range see www.thegroupwines.com.au December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs GUESTHOUSE WITH THE FLAIR OF PROVENCE luxury linen, quality toiletries, free on-site parking, tea- and coffee-making facilities and air conditioning. There is a choice MONTVILLE House is a new luxuriously appointed stand-alone of double, twin, and family rooms. The vintage food truck van guesthouse that sits in the grounds of Clovelly Estate’s French doubles as the reception desk. provincial-style Spicers Clovelly Estate in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. Opened just a few months ago, Montville House is Visit Sunshine Coast Interim CEO Craig Davidson said: \"New nestled in the rolling hills of the Blackall Ranges, just outside the products and experiences are an important part of keeping up lovely hamlet of Montville and a short drive from Maleny. with consumer demand. They provide fresh incentive for visitors to stay longer and spend more, entice new visitors to the region Montville House has six self-contained suites, each with a marble- and encourage return travellers to try something new.” tiled en suite bathroom, and is perfect for groups of six to 12 people. There is also a kitchenette with an honesty bar, Nespresso machine Prices start from $170 per night for a double room and can be and an extendable dining table. booked direct at www.loea.com.au/. Montville House promotes its natural textures and materials, CULINARY DUO CREATE NEW MENU timber, and cool white stone in bright, airy spaces with generous natural light. French doors open onto lush gardens. Guests can CULINARY duo Bobbi and Matt Wells of The Barrelroom have dine in the on-site Long Apron Restaurant. launched a new locavore menu at Ballandean Estate’s signature restaurant, showcasing the best of local produce and hand-made Montville is a destination town with galleries, craft shops and artisan pasta. Owner-chef Bobbi Wells says: “The last few weeks fashion boutiques and Clovelly Estate is set up to cater for small we’ve seen an enormous influx of wine tourists at the cellar door groups or couples. In addition to Montville House, there is the and restaurant, booking out weeks in advance at times. three-bedroom French Cottage and 10 suites in the main guest house, which also houses the Spa Anise Day Spa. “Our new menu draws inspiration from the truffles produced at The Folly, a Ballandean property with 300-plus inoculated trees The menu at the Long Apron is inspired by the surroundings, the hosting black gold. Diners are loving our new mushroom tortelloni, seasons, and the landscape: ocean, hinterland, wetlands - and served with a mixed mushroom cream sauce and fresh Ballandean chef Chris Hagan showcases fresh local vegetables. truffles shaved over the dish. Montville House is at Spicers Clovelly Estate; https://spicersretreats. com/retreats/spicers-clovelly-estate. “Award-winning Mallow organic lamb is featured in several dishes and also farmed nearby. One of our most popular new dishes is CHIC ADDITION TO THE COAST the hand-made pappardelle with slow-cooked Mallow lamb ragu, finished with pesto and grated Reggiano. WHAT was once a standard motel has been reborn as a chic boutique hotel on the Sunshine Coast. Loea Boutique Hotel - “We slow-braise the lamb located opposite the Maroochy River - has undergone a major shoulder for six hours at 150 renovation. Loea is owned by Andrew and Lucy Pink, who noticed degrees, then reduce the stock a gap in the market for boutique hotel-style accommodation. and add house-made sugo sauce and, confit cherry tomatoes, Features of the property include a luxe outdoor pool surrounded by then serve with spinach, pesto, a communal al fresco lounge area and garden, local organic skincare gremolata and grated Reggiano. products in the rooms, a private outdoor deck for each suite and a vintage food van on site offering coffee, alcoholic beverages and “Other new dishes include veal brunch, grazing and dessert platters available to be pre-ordered. scallopini with duck fat-roasted potatoes, peas and white wine The property has free wifi throughout, king-sized beds with sauce and a baked Israeli cauliflower with house-made labneh and grated tomatoes. 16 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

“Starters include a beef carpaccio, stuffed mushrooms, and DISTILLERY BLOSSOMS ON battered zucchini flowers stuffed with buffalo mozzarella.” THE COAST The Barrelroom is open for dine-in Thursday to Monday for THE Gold Coast was screaming out for a gin distillery, but when lunch, and on Friday and Saturday for dinner. See the menu at owner James Greig finally opened his cellar doors to Wildflower www.barrelroomrestaurant.com. Gin, two years after perfecting his signature gin, the state went into lockdown. His first product for sale ended up being hand CRYSTAL CLEAR VISION sanitiser. Now he is able to release his Wildflower Signature Gin at this speakeasy-inspired cellar door. The gin is produced with CHANGE is in the air in Brisbane with Crystalbrook Collection, locally picked flowers. Wildflower also offers two Masterclass one of Australia's leading sustainable hospitality companies, sessions after which you walk away with your own 500ml bottle of announcing plans to expand its luxury east coast hotel portfolio gin to enjoy. See www.wildflowergin.com. with the acquisition of boutique Brisbane property The Fantauzzo. JW MARRIOTT MAKES DEBUT Situated beneath Brisbane's iconic Story Bridge overlooking the Howard Smith Wharves, the contemporary hotel features 166 rooms JW Marriott Hotels & Resorts, part of Marriott International, will make and suites, the Polpetta kitchen and bar, the elevated Fiume bar its debut in Australia in December following a $35 million rebrand along with a rooftop pool, fitness centre and meeting spaces. The of Queensland’s iconic Surfers Paradise Marriott Resort & Spa into property celebrates photo-realist painter Vincent Fantauzzo, with the JW Marriott Gold Coast Resort & Spa. Upon completion of the 300 of his works and digital prints on display throughout the hotel. renovation, the resort will be elevated to a new standard. The purchase from the Deague Group marks Crystalbrook's “We are excited to announce the debut of our flagship JW Marriott entry into the vibrant Brisbane market, and adds to its operations brand here in Australia with the opening of JW Marriott Gold Coast in Sydney, Byron Bay, Cairns, Newcastle and Port Douglas. The Resort & Spa,” said Sean Hunt, area vice president for Australia, group's portfolio includes Little Albion in Sydney; Byron at Byron New Zealand and Pacific, Marriott International. in Byron Bay; Riley, Bailey and Flynn in Cairns and Kingsley in Newcastle. Crystalbrook also owns and operates Crystalbrook “The opening will signal the continued expansion of our luxury Superyacht Marina in Port Douglas. footprint in Australia as we continue to see strong demand within the luxury travel segment here. The JW Marriott brand, with its “Australia's east coast is unlike anything else in the world, and distinctive luxury philosophy, will resonate with these travellers, who as a company we are pleased to be able to invest in and support seek exceptional, thoughtfully-crafted services and experiences.” the Australian tourism industry,\" said Crystalbrook owner Ghassan Aboud. \"Brisbane was the next logical step for us.” Award-winning Australian design studio, DBI, the original architects and interior designers behind the existing property, were The official handover will occur in the first half of 2021. The hotel engaged to reimagine the iconic resort. will trade as part of the Crystalbrook Collection with the official new name to be announced in the coming months. With a total of 223 rooms and suites, JW Marriott Gold Coast Resort & Spa has been designed, inspired by its natural surroundings, to promote and reflect the beauty and relaxed mood of coastal Queensland. The new-look guest rooms, offering a choice of ocean or hinterland views, also draw inspiration from the local landscapes and surrounding elements. The property will have six food and beverage venues, including two feature restaurants, lobby lounge and bar, pool bar, a new Japanese whisky bar, and a signature JW Marketplace. The resort’s highly celebrated outdoor swimming pools, offering a variety of depths and activations, including the saltwater lagoon featuring over 300 tropical fish, is the heart of the JW Marriott. The Pool Bar will offer poolside dining options and a lounge area for refreshing cocktails, light bites, and family snacks. For further information on the JW Marriott brand visit www.jw-marriott.marriott.com. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW MAKING SENSE OF THE MADNESS IN PANDEMIC TIMES AS parts of Europe looked, from an Yet, in spite of all things pandemic, dioxide (a protective agent commonly used October perspective, as though they as undoubtedly we know personally, in food industries) may be added. are were heading towards a second some sense of continuing, in whatever a Covid-19 wave, and a winter of partial, ‘pandemic-normal’ comprises, carries on … In the last couple of decades, several and possibly even national, lockdown, a groups of growers have emerged, in saving grace, of sorts, for the wine industry … and yet, in a move that might be Europe and beyond, as the modern is that harvest is all but over, and vines are considered some way from ‘normal’, earlier incarnation of this niche winemaking heading into their dormant phase. this year, after a decade of discussions, philosophy has gained followers. Often the France formally defined ‘natural wine’. aims, emphases and wine specification At top line level, European Union (EU) Since its modern-day emergence this requirements differ slightly; and they are figures suggest that things might have minimal intervention category has defied typically voluntary, member associations. been even worse. Data for the EU-27 a universally accepted definition. Makers nations from Eurostat (the statistical of this style are often noteworthy for their What’s different now is that in France, office of the EU) show that by August total individuality, quirkiness, free-spiritedness wine industry regulators have officially retail trade, including the category ‘food, and lack of desire to be ‘boxed in’. recognised, for a three-year trial period, a drinks, tobacco’ had recovered relative labelling certification that has been termed to their February levels. Textiles, clothing Nonetheless it has been, ‘natural method’, managed by the Union and footwear, and fuel consumption of Natural Wines. Significantly, this means are categories still only at 90-95% of and remains, a rocky this syndicate is officially recognised by February levels. the French governmental administration. ride for agriculture, Nonetheless it has been, and remains, The name may yet cause confusion a rocky ride for agriculture, including including wine, one because European wine law disallows wine, one that has needed huge support the term ‘natural wine’ on wine labels. So, packages. Within the EU, seasonal that has needed huge while the union’s name refers to natural agricultural workers were classified as wine, the qualifying wine label states ‘critical workers’. This allowed summer support packages. ‘natural method’ (vin méthode nature). vineyard management, and autumn harvesting to carry on. Loans, grants and Critics of the unformulated category, among Members must adhere to the official advance payments of existing support other things, state that it implies all other protocols of the group, which means measures were put in place to try to keep wines are suddenly ‘unnatural’, or less-than- a mandatory ‘natural method’ charter: farmers in business. Unsold stocks of wine natural, or inauthentic? Brian Croser notably fruit must be hand harvested from 100% have been distilled into industrial alcohol described natural wines as ‘accidental wines’, certified organic or biodynamic (or 2nd for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and medical for these very implications. year conversion at least). Fermentation purposes. Other stocks have been used to must be by indigenous yeast and make hand sanitiser. Thus, physical space A generic summary of natural wines is winemaking without inputs or additions. has been created for the new harvest. that they are typically farmed organically No ‘technical’ processing is allowed, Then, to help with rebuilding, wine is one or biodynamically. Typically, fermentation for example, reverse osmosis, flash of several hard-hit food sectors to receive uses indigenous yeasts and no additives are pasteurisation, thermovinification, cross- additional marketing-support funds for the used. An exception is that a very little sulphur flow filtration. next campaign year. The exception to additions is sulphur dioxide (SO2). While no SO2 is allowed to be added before and during fermentation, 18 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

producers may adjust up to 30mg/l total Will this trial encourage other natural wine We have to wash SO2 between the end of fermentation and grower associations to go down the route of over 32,000 bottling. As a point of comparison, EU total formal recognition and certification? Does wine glasses SO2 maxima for certified organic wine is it matter if there ends up being multiple each year ... 120mg/L for dry whites and rosés, and natural wine certifications each with slightly 100mg/L for red, so the natural method different rules and specifications? If the so you don’t have to. requirements are notably more stringent. experience of sustainability certification options is anything to go by, then maybe Two identifying labelling logos are not. There are two key biodynamics available, one with “without added certifying organisations. There are many sulphites” and an alternative with “<30mg/l organics certifying organisations in sulphites added”. The latter is viewed by different countries. In terms of international the syndicate as an inclusive ‘stepping- trading of wine, differences in protocols stone’ for producers who are evolving and specifications of individual national towards ‘zero inputs’. As in Australia (and certifying organisations tend to be overcome elsewhere), the wine labels will most likely by equivalence agreements. This means also state “contains sulphites” as part of the key rules in each nation are accepted existing mandatory allergen labelling, in other nations with which the agreement because during fermentation some yeasts is in place. For organic wine, for example, naturally produce sulphites at levels of the EU and Australia accept each other’s 10mg/L and more. definitions and protocols. So, for natural wine certification, there is plenty of prior At the time of writing, about 100 growers examples that slight differences in protocols are already members, and the syndicate can be both agreed and accepted. But that is liaising with producers in other EU may be some way into the future. We’re countries with a view to natural method in year one, of one three-year trial, in one ultimately becoming authorised under EU country. Is it progress? I’d say so. wine legislation. Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Is all this just another label to add to the Wine Buying Guide growing plethora? Maybe, but it’s also a commitment to begin to try to make sense phone +61 8 8357 9277 or of an increasing number of producers on-line www.winestate.com.au who are experimenting with using fewer of the possible winemaking tools that have evolved during the second half of the 20th century and first fifth of the 21st century. Importantly, it also provides unambiguous information for consumers in the complex, often confusing arena of wine buying. Clarity is typically always a good thing. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY BIOSECURITY: BEWARE OF HITCHHIKERS BROWN Marmorated Stink Bug (BMSB) will often aggregate in outbuildings, in the community and visitors to our and the Glassy Winged Sharpshooter might warehouses, vehicles, large pieces of countries to be vigilant and be aware of not be names familiar with wine lovers, but machinery, shipping containers etc, in what these hitchhikers look like. Maybe they could stop you enjoying your favourite places where they aren’t easily observed New Zealand’s excellent top ten ‘Unwanted drops in the future. – small compartments, nooks and corners, Poster’ needs to be adapted and displayed wheel arches, cracks. Some of these at entry points? Australia has seen BMSB The fight to keep Australian and New vehicles, machinery, containers are then ‘incidents’ grow from below 10 per annum Zealand vineyards safe from international shipped overseas, bringing aggregations to over 50 per annum in the past ten pests and diseases has never been harder, years. Infested shipping containers are possibly since Phylloxera terrorised the The fight to keep being stopped at or before the border vinous world in the late 19th century. and are often fumigated before reaching Biosecurity is an item on every annual Australian and New our shores. report and SWOT analysis. “It’s a booming business, unfortunately,” comments Wine Zealand vineyards The vine malady Pierce’s disease (caused Australia’s Program Manager Craig Elliott by Xylella fastidiosa) is a bacterium that and whilst 2020 has seen a lull in the fight safe from international blocks the xylem, the tissues that transport against these invaders the threat level is still water from the roots to the stems of the vine. high. In fact, the New Zealand Winegrowers pests and diseases has It’s a fatal disease causing, not surprisingly, have published a Most Unwanted flyer water stress. The vine dies within one to five listing the top 10 pest and diseases to stop never been harder, years. The disease came to prominence in at the borders. America in 1892. They are still fighting the possibly since Phylloxera disease in California and have a control BMSB is at the top of their list. Marmorated programme to stop it spreading into means ‘veined or streaked like marble’, terrorised the vinous Northern Californian wine regions. There is which is a reference to its appearance. no treatment or sub species of vitis vinifera Originating from Asia, the insect damages world in the late that is resistant to the disease, pinot and fruit and opens wounds that can lead to chardonnay succumb quicker than other fungal disease. Added to this, the bug 19th century. varieties. The most threatening vector (a emits a foul smell akin to rotten coriander carrier insect) to spread Pierce’s disease, or sweaty socks which, if caught up in the of BMSB with them.” Sophie reports that is the Glassy Winged Sharpshooter (GWSS) grape harvest, will taint the grape juice it is now widespread in the United States which is why the insect is on the most making it unusable. “BMSB has already and spreading in Italy and France and unwanted list. The insect has been getting been detected in freight consignments of most recently has been detected in Chile, geographically closer to New Zealand with imported machinery and vehicles as well near Santiago. it currently waiting in Tahiti and the Cook as garden pots,” comments Craig. Sophie Islands for a ride west. But the disease Badland is the Biosecurity and Emergency BMSB has been found on tourists clothing, could also be spread by a local insect that Response Manager for New Zealand their personal effects and packages from feeds off the xylem and in New Zealand Winegrowers, she explains that “BMSB overseas. There is a real need for everyone they have identified the meadow spittle overwintering in the northern hemisphere 20 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

bug as a possible carrier as it is commonly France, Spain, and parts of Italy is the CONNECT ON SOCIAL found in vineyards. The strict quarantine Scaphoideus titanus. In organic vineyards WITH WINESTATE regulations on plant material brought into the pest is managed with Pyrethrins. Australia and New Zealand is the first line www.facebook.com/Winestate-Magazine of defence against Pierce’s disease and New Zealand has a biosecurity campaign is very effective. But it is the people that running called ‘Ko Tãtou – this is us’ twitter.com/winestateed smuggle plant material in their luggage that and a catch phrase, ‘Catch it, Snap it, is the most likely entry point – so please Report it’ and have a hotline number 0800 www.instagram.com/winestate/ no plant cuttings hidden in your pyjamas! 80 99 66. Sophie makes an important GWSS has not spread into Europe and, point, “biosecurity is crucial for the Follow us and keep up to date with it is thought, that the cold winters kill off sustainability of the New Zealand wine all our latest wine info, tastings, the insects sufficiently to stop outbreaks, industry. Unfortunately, there is not a competitions and events on but warmer countries such as Australia great diversity of plantings in the NZ wine facebook, twitter and instagram. might not be as lucky. Xylella fastidiosa industry and a few key varieties are relied is not only found in vines, but over 500 upon quite heavily – an incursion of a hundred different plants, “many of these new pest of disease could have serious are asymptomatic,” notes Sophie. consequences”. Flavescence dorée (Candidatus Craig Elliott thinks that we rely too heavily Phytoplasma vitis) is one of the major on governments to protect us and feels vine problems in France, Spain and biosecurity should be a normal part of Italy. Phytoplasma is a bacterium, that is business, just like WHS. The general public spread by grafting from infected plants, or need to be aware of the threat and follow carried by a vector. It causes the leaves instructions of vineyard staff. “This might to yellow and die and reduces yields involve not entering production areas or to dramatically as well as wine quality. Whilst decontaminate shoes or vehicles before the threat level is low, the consequences entering a property. If you have someone would be commercially devastating for travelling around a number of vineyards both industries. One of the measures to day after day, they could easily transmit counter the threat of Flavescence dorée is a pest like phylloxera on their shoes or to use pesticides to cut down the vectors. clothing throughout a region and cause However, if you are an organic/biodynamic a major impact to wine production. We farmer that would be against the rules have a great reputation for producing and you could lose your accreditation. In quality wine with an emphasis on clean, 2015 French authorities took a Biodynamic green production. If we don’t stay on top Burgundian producer Thibault Liger-Belair of biosecurity, we place that at risk.” to court for failing to spray his vines when ordered. The most common vector in December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING BYRON BAY - BEER, BARS AND TOP CLASS SPIRITS HOME to Hollywood and home-grown the jewel of our rainforest, Davidson mentored by the award-winning team movie stars, smart restaurants and luxury plum\". Cape Byron has recently started at Lark Distillery in Tasmania. The duo rentals, Byron Bay is also the Wellness making whisky in the traditional Scottish makes artisanal spirits using ingredients Capital of Australia. But there's more to style using nutrient-rich spring water sourced from their own farm and local the NSW tourism mecca for keen beer from the base of Mount Warning. Visitors growers. The range is a mix of light and and spirits fans and those yearning for to the distillery can sign up to be dark, including The Promise Spiced some of the best seaside bars in the notified of the first limited release. For Rum, vodka, silver rhum, limoncello, country. In fact, you could spend a week butterscotch schnapps devotees - Mac silver rhum overproof, kokomo coconut visiting local breweries and distilleries infused pure cane spirit and Fig Tree on a DIY basis or with leading tour The distillers are a Restaurant kumquat liqueur. companies to sample top class craft beers and artisanal spirits. tourist attraction in Centrally located in Byon Bay's Banksia Drive, Lord Byron Distillery offers Located on the 39-hectare Brook their own right. Jim complimentary tours and cocktails and Farm, Cape Byron Distillery was once tastings at the cellar door. If you are a rundown dairy farm. Pam and Martin McEwan, AKA The Cask really keen, you can sign up for the very Brook took over the property in 1988 instructive two-hour blending class. and planted 35,000 subtropical trees. Whisperer, boasts Today's lush rainforest is a haven for Husk Distillers, renowned for Ink Gin wildlife and birds and produces most more than 50 years’ and paddock-to-bottle rum, opened its of the botanicals used to make the plush new cellar door, cocktail bar and distillery's signature Brookie's Byron experience and is the cafe in Tumbulgum, a 60-minute drive Bay Gin. from Byron Bay, last year. Forget any only distiller in the other rum you've tasted, Husk's French- The distillers are a tourist attraction in inspired agricole rum is made from the their own right. Jim McEwan, AKA The world to win the Master 60-hectare family farm's sugar cane. Cask Whisperer, boasts more than 50 Choose from Husk Spiced Bam Bam, years’ experience and is the only distiller Distiller of the Year Pure Cane and Pure Cane 50. in the world to win the Master Distiller of the Year award three times. award three times. In 2012, Husk's distiller, Paul Messenger, started to experiment with the colour Eddie Brook, Co-Founder and CEO by Brookie's - is a premium macadamia switching properties of the Butterfly of Cape Byron Distiller y, has been nut and wattleseed liqueur flavoured with Pea, a flowering legume originating in mentored by McEwan and is devoted butterscotch, cacao and coffee flavours. Thailand. Over the following three years, to gin flavoured with native ingredients. he came up with a gin recipe made A passion acknowledged at the Icons Tour bookings are essential during from 12 botanicals to create a superbly of Gin awards held in London in the Covid-19 crisis. You are given balanced gin with a deep blue colour February when the distillery was named a G&T on arrival before a guided dubbed Ink Gin. The following year the Sustainable Distillery of the Year, beating tasting of the Brookie's range. Go to breakthrough spirit took out the Best out all-comers. capebyrondistillery.com. Innovation in Spirits gong at the 2016 Australian Drinks Industry awards - the Two types of multi-award-winning gins Brian and Helen Restall of the Lord first craft product to win the category. are on offer in a range of sizes from 50ml Byron Distillery were inspired and to 700ml - Brookie's Byron Dry Gin and Husk's offers three tours - daily Slow Gin, billed as \"a rare gin made from distillery tours, an Ink Gin tour and a 22 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

rum tour. Bookings are essential at www. an annual tip of the hat to venues that Follow us and keep huskdistillers.com The seasonal menus hero wines. The moreish bar menu which up to date with all at the Planter's Kitchen are reason also celebrates sustainability will keep our latest wine info, enough to drop by or finish a tour with you here for an hour or three. tastings and events Happy Hour on Fridays and Saturdays. on facebook, twitter The Bolt Hole, a rooftop cocktail and The craft beer brand synonymous whisky bar, offers up to 300 whiskies, and instagram. with Byron Bay is Stone & Wood. The gins, rums, tequilas and artisanal spirits. company routinely picks up major A great spot for a sundowner amid Winestate Magazine awards for its top sellers - Pacific Ale a London club style decor of leather @WinestateEd and Green Coast Lager- limited and Chesterfields and an impressive copper- seasonal releases. A visit to its Byron toned bar. Bay brewery is considered a must-do regional attraction and features on most G&Ts made with Brookie's Ink Gin do of the local tours for good reason. a brisk business at The Mez Club, a popular favourite with locals and visitors. The tasting room is Stone & Wood's The upper level caters to groups but \"spiritual home\", housing 31 brewing downstairs is filled with friends and tanks, a canteen run by 100 Mile Table couples gazing out of the floor-to-ceiling (co-owner Sarah Swan worked for the windows open to the sea breezes. The Rockpool Group in Sydney for 14 years) tapas-style menu underscores Byron's and a roomy beer garden. You don't famous laidback vibe. have to make a booking for a general visit, but you do need a reservation for Some of the best views in town are a guided tour. A welcome craft brew also found at The Balcony Bar & Oyster kicks off the proceedings, followed by Co. Then there's the fresh-as oysters, an in-depth immersion in the history expertly-made cocktails and seasonal of beer, the Stone & Wood story and menus created by Sean Connolly, the conscious business initiatives. Then internationally renowned super-chef comes a guided tasting of five beers, who also oversees top class eateries in including core brews, one-off pilot beers Australia and New Zealand, including The and limited releases. For bookings, go Morrison Bar & Oyster Room in Sydney to www.stoneandwood.com.au. and Sean's Kitchen in Adelaide. Supernatural Cellars is Byron Bay's first natural wine bar. Owned by ex- Hunter Valley (Krinklewood) winemaker, Peter Windrim, the cosy laneway premises specialises in 50 organic, biodynamic and naturally produced wines from near and far - WA through Georgia and France. Late last year, Supernatural Cellars won the inaugural Maverick award at the 2019 Wineslinger Awards, December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 23

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A NOT-SO-SECRET RECIPE Take heritage, regional know-how, a good range of varieties, a dedicated team, talented winemakers, add a dash of passion and you have a recipe for success. KARYN FOSTER AT no time has success ever been so evident as when Australian wines entered a renaissance that continues to this day. Leconfield Coonawarra scooped the pool in Winestate “Until Syd’s pioneering efforts Australians were a nation of beer Magazine’s recent Annual Limestone Coast tasting. An eminent Winestate judging panel saw Leconfield Coonawarra leading drinkers. But with the introduction of refrigerated fermentation that the pack with exciting wines including the 5 star 2019 Leconfield all changed,” Richard explains. “Once Australian red and white Coonawarra Reserve Shiraz - equal top in category - eligible table wines became eminently drinkable following the introduction for Wine of the Year and the sensual new 4.5 star Syn Sparkling of cold fermentation, consumption patterns changed radically Rosé, also eligible for the Wine of the Year. All-in-all an amazing amongst Australians to favouring wine. The humble grape became seven Leconfield Coonawarra wines were deemed eligible for much less humble.” the up-coming Wine of the Year. Today Leconfield Coonawarra’s much celebrated standout wines Leconfield’s home is in Coonawarra. The vineyards are planted are characterised by Senior Winemaker Paul Gordon as follows; predominantly to cabernet sauvignon and with merlot, cabernet franc, shiraz, petit verdot, riesling and chardonnay; yielding “Leconfield Coonawarra ‘The Sydney’ Reserve - the very best multi-award winning sparkling, white, rosé and succulent reds. of our Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon resource married with exquisite French oak producing a wine that expresses the finesse Leconfield Coonawarra was established in 1974 by Sydney and depth of the region. Hamilton at 76 years of age. With a ground-breaking winemaking career spanning nearly 60 years, Sydney Hamilton selected a “Leconfield Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon - the wine for which fine piece of ‘Terra Rossa’ country at Coonawarra to fulfill a life’s we are most renowned, showing the intensity, length and purity ambition, to grow and produce a classic Australian cabernet that Coonawarra insists from this wonderful variety. It evolves over sauvignon. He named the estate Leconfield, after his English time to provide a wine to savour. ancestor, Lord Leconfield, and set about establishing a remarkable reputation for Leconfield Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. “Leconfield Coonawarra Merlot - having developed recognition as amongst the best examples of this variety, it has the reputation With 65 vintages under his belt, Sydney decided to finally of providing the great structure and texture expected of this variety. retire and Leconfield Coonawarra was acquired by his McLaren Vale based nephew Dr Richard Hamilton. Ever respectful to his “Leconfield Coonawarra Reserve Shiraz - selected from hand ancestor, Richard gives credit to Sydney Hamilton’s discovery thinned fruit to allow good light penetration into the vine canopy, of the key to temperature-controlled fermentation in the 1930s. then vat fermented, this is a delicious shiraz showing elegance, finesse and a textural palate. “Leconfield Coonawarra Old Vines Riesling - a single vineyard, dry style, this riesling is refreshing when young, and a delight for December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 25

The face of Leconfield those with the patience to allow complex toastiness to develop with Coonawarra is personalised ten or so years of aging. Harvested from riesling cuttings sourced by a small team dedicated from Sydney’s Happy Valley vineyard almost 50 years ago. to the five generations of Richard Hamilton’s family “Leconfield’s Syn Sparkling Rosé - Coonawarra chardonnay and heritage. pinot noir to provide the elegant basis for this newest addition to our range. Crisp with a delicate yeastiness and the palest of blushes 26 W I N E S TAT E December 2020 hinting that even this wine is a little coy at how good it is. Winemaker Paul Gordon has been with the company for nearly two decades, after stints throughout South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales and Europe. Inspiration from wines of Alsace, Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Rhone regions of France and the new generation of producers in Italy as well as Paul's oenology experience in Australia have refined his approach. \"Great wine cannot be made without exceptional fruit. I pride myself on developing close relationships between both our winery and vineyard staff. We all constantly evaluate our wonderful vineyard resource to find innovative means of maximising fruit quality in our wines.\" The face of Leconfield Coonawarra is personalised by a small team dedicated to the five generations of Richard Hamilton’s family heritage. According to Gordon, “winemakers tend to receive more than their fair share of credit and to that end we are very lucky to have the experience of Greg Foster who joined us in 2018 and leads our two experienced cellarmen. “However, the wines would not exist without Bendt Rasmussen in Coonawarra and Lee Harding in McLaren Vale and their crews

who have 90ha of vineyards to manage. They have an incredible Previous pages left to right: Exterior of new cellar door entry; Paul Gordon knowledge and dedication, getting up when most are asleep to and Greg Foster in the winery; Paul Gordon on vineyard wine tanks. Photo battle frosts and pick fruit in the cooler night hours. credit Simon Hughes. From left to right top to bottom: Leconfield platter; the team at Leconfield; “Then there are the faces of the brand with Kerrie Marcus, Paul Gordon; interior of the cellar door; Paul in the vineyards checking the Karly Craik, Kate Mooney and Damian White, and their teams vines; Greg Foster in the winery. Photo credit Simon Hughes. who passionately share their knowledge of our wines with customers and Alethea Flodin who ensures that every wine looks fantastic when its packed. Kerry Knobloch and Christine Seys handle the finances. We are indeed lucky to have such a tight knit group of people.” Leconfield Coonawarra has a newly refurbished cellar door in the region, adjacent to the Riddoch Highway. It is also represented in McLaren Vale at a joint cellar door with brother winery Richard Hamilton Wines. Customers can sample delightful pre-selected wine flights or wines of choice (including vegan friendly) from the tasting list at either venue; accompanied by regional produce. Leconfield Coonawarra is a shining example of a recipe for success. As Paul Gordon reflects, “The essence of Leconfield Coonawarra was Sydney Hamilton’s ambition to craft outstanding wines. It is the reason Coonawarra with its unique climate and soils was selected and the former sheep property transformed to produce today’s rich vineyard resource almost 50 years since the first vines were planted.” Something the friendly ghost of Sydney Hamilton surely looks down on from the great vineyard in the heavens, with pride. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 27

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THE ARGUMENT FOR OAK! JOY WALTERFANG THERE are those that love big oaky wines and those who hate them – I think I am safe in saying the majority of wine consumers fall into the latter category. But oak isn’t the enemy here it is how it is used. Oak ageing smoothes out a wine and balances the flavours - when it’s done well, but with inept use it can smother everything, leaving you with nothing but a mouthful of splinters! Oak can’t be all bad, after all it has been a couple of hundred years now that French winemakers have been maturing their premium wines in oak. The First Growth wines of Bordeaux and Grand Crus of Burgundy may spend anything up to two years in small barrels creating unsurpassed examples of wines with both elegance and power. The practice of maturing wine in oak barrels is not done to add oak flavours, although a wine sitting in a barrel for month after month must absorb some sensory characteristics from the timber, but no, it is predominately done for the physical properties that can be imparted to a callow youth of a wine. Oak maturation gives structure and complexity, softening the immature wine’s harsh tannins and over time producing a rounder, smoother and fuller wine with increased stability. The Australian Wine Industry has had an interesting forty-year journey with oak. At the beginning of the eighties the industry was still remarkably underdeveloped with the potential of export markets only just being investigated. Peter Dunlop of Classic Oak is about to clock up 40 years in the oak barrel business and recalls those early days when Antipodean vintners began to adopt the use of oak to mature their table wines, albeit rather a little too enthusiastically. “Although Australian winemakers imported oak from both France and America, the more powerful American oak was the popular choice for maturing shiraz and cabernet wines. During that time big wine companies were also bringing in their own oak and seasoning it where they were located, mostly in the Barossa. Today it is acknowledged that the Barossa climate is not suited for air-drying barrel staves as it resulted in too much astringency. For perfect seasoning conditions you need to have high humidity and a rainfall of over 1000mm,” reflects Peter. “Back then there were December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 29

also an enormous amount of cheap Bourbon style barrels being to which the inside of the barrel has been toasted, size of the imported from the US that were not only being used for reds but also for white varieties such as chardonnay and semillon, for which barrel, whether it is new or old and the time the wine spends they were definitely not suited.” in the barrel. And so, the profile of Australian wines evolved. Chardonnay, in particular, is susceptible to oak influence. Peter remembers what he refers to as those, “butchered “I am in a wine club in Newcastle,” said Peter. “We recently chardonnays,” of old and the resulting consumer ABC lament - “anything but chardonnay!” did a tasting comparison between a lineup of top producers of As there was virtually no export market for Australian wines, at Hunter River chardonnays against some Burgundian Grand crus the time, there was really no need for winemakers to look at what their overseas counterparts were producing. and Premier crus. It was a blind tasting with guys who had really And so, the fervor for oak – any oak, coupled with the harvesting sophisticated palates and went to France regularly buying wine, of super ripe grapes, equating to high alcohol wines and hey presto, the huge oaky Australian blockbusters were born. they were totally bemused trying to pick the Aussie wines from the Consumers were seduced by these massive wines, no doubt French which shows we are now producing beautifully balanced fine encouraged by the astonishingly high ratings certain influential American wine writers were giving them, creating almost a wines that are really showing up well against the wines of the world.” cult following. Oak is expensive and adds considerable cost to the winemaking But people eventually tired of wines that leaped out the glass and grabbed them by their collective throats. They were bored process. Barrel maturation will always be the preferred method by the sameness of them all. for production of fine wines, but winemakers can instill subtle oak Things began to change. Enter the Flying Winemakers, a concept that started with a group of enlightened Australian characters in their less expensive wines without the cost of barrels. winemakers who ventured outside their comfort zones, travelling north during the Australian winter to work in the wine regions The industry approved alternatives of oak battens, oak chips and of Europe. Seeing the benefits of this, winemakers from the United States and Europe began migrating south during their oak shavings can be suspended in the wine as it ages in stainless quiet time. A constructive international interchange of ideas and techniques began. steel tanks imparting certain oak derived flavours. These barrel By the late ‘90s and early ‘00s, Australian wine export markets substitutes come with the same range of provenances and quality exploded, new wine regions were appearing in cooler areas, the excesses of the past were toned down and winemakers available in barrels. The barrel alternatives may not impart the were understanding the effects different configurations of oak can make to a wine. physical properties mentioned at the beginning of the article but Characters that oak can impart will differ greatly depending can add a complexity to the wine. on the origin of the oak, the species, length of time it has been seasoned in the open air, fineness of the oak grain, the extent “These days our winemakers have the benefit of knowledge once only available to the very top Châteaux and top houses in Burgundy,” noted Peter. “Now we can source the world’s best oak products which enables our winemakers to produce wines that can stand up to any in the world.” Judges’ comments that appear in Winestate’s bi-monthly wine reviews back this up. The majority of wines presented to the panels get the big thumbs up for achieving the right balance between the oak and the fruit. The enjoyment of wine is subjective, it is a personal thing, and for every person who turns up their nose at oak aromas and flavours in wine, there is someone else who just loves them. Peter has the last word. “Be it a good thing or bad there is no doubt the globalization of wines has certainly improved the quality of our wines.” Vive le barrique! 30 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

The Australian Wine Industry has had an interesting forty-year journey with oak. At the beginning of the eighties the industry was still remarkably underdeveloped with the potential of export markets only just being investigated. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 31

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REACHING NEW HEIGHTS AltoThe lure ofAdige WINSOR DOBBIN HIGH on a mountain range in the far north-east of Italy is a tiny Wine was made in this area even before the Romans arrived, wine region that is the local equivalent of Tasmania in Australia. and some evidence suggests production dates as far back as And, just like the Apple Isle, it is booming. the Iron Age. The most planted grapes are schiava, pinot grigio, gewürztraminer, pinot blanc, chardonnay, lagrein and pinot noir, Done Tuscany? Discovered Piedmont? Why not sample one of while you will also come across sauvignon blanc, Muller-Thurgau Italy’s most idiosyncratic wine regions: the Alto Adige. and merlot, as well as several less important varieties. The wide range is accounted for by the fact that vines are planted at between Overlooked by the Dolomites, the Alto Adige is bordered by 200 to over 1,000 meters above sea level. Austria and Germany and is also known by its German name of Sud Tirol. Alto Adige was the only Italian viticultural zone whose area under vine increased during the 1980s and 1990s; and with this came The scenery is spectacular (ideal for walkers, hikers and bikers) technological advancements in both winemaking and viticulture. and the skiing stunning during winter (the famous winter resort It is a trend that is continuing. of Val Gardena is just a short drive from the regional capital of Bolzano). In summer, alpine trekking is popular and the region is Alto Adige’s winemaking area today comprises 5,400-hectares of blessed with 300 days of sun per year. vineyards. This has risen by approximately 500 hectares over the past 10 years. Wines from Alto Adige are characterised by purity This is a quirky area, but one on a rapid rise. Although you are in of fruit and energy – making them very much on-trend in the era in Italy most of the locals speak German. But a combination of Italian which cool-climate viticulture and minimal intervention are in vogue. flair and German efficiency has seen Alto Adige emerge as Italy’s top white wine region in recent years. “Nature is more powerful than we are,” says regional biodynamic pioneer Alois Lageder, who exports to Australia. The key ingredients are the Alpine-Mediterranean climate, the quality of the mineral-rich soils and some smart vineyard locations. His son, Clemens Lageder, adds: “Biodynamics is not a magic wand, where suddenly everything gets better, but you have to While the Alto Adige is one of Italy’s smallest winegrowing deal intensively with the matter. It also helps to broaden one's regions it is also one of the most multifaceted with over 20 own horizon.” different grape varieties thriving here, including several reds, among them indigenous varieties lagrein and schiava (also known as vernatsch and trollinger). White wines account for 62% of production and reds 38%. A remarkable 98% of the vineyard area is regarded as being of DOC quality. There are around 5,000 winegrowers here, around 200 wineries (many of them co-operatives) and around 15,700 acres of vines. Around 40 million bottles are produced each year – less than 1% of Italy’s total wine production, another parallel with Tasmania. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 33

STAR NAMES TO LOOK OUT FOR: Cantina Terlano, a co-operative founded way back in 1893 in the village of Terlan, Terlano is regarded as one of the most innovative producers in the region. The white wines from here are noted for their longevity. Alois Lageder is one of the regional style leaders with the Löwengang winery built to strict environmental and ecological criteria. Founded in 1823 and today directed by fifth and sixth generations Alois and Clemens Lageder, the estate combines tradition and innovation based on a sustainable and organic philosophy. Tiefenbrunner is one of the oldest wine estates in the region with Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof Wine Estate now run by the fifth- generation family member Christof Tiefenbrunner. The business dates back to 1848. Cantina Kurtatsch is a collection of small growers; 190 in all, many of whom cultivate vineyards that are less than a hectare in size. Pinot noir is a standout, labelled as blauburgunder or pinot nero, while it also exports an outstanding lagrein to Australia. St Michael Eppan has a history dating back to 1907. It was formed when three hundred different small winemakers came together. Today the label is known for producing some of Italy’s best white wines, including stellar chardonnays in 2017 and 2018. Cantina Girlan was founded in 1923 by a group of 23 grape growers. Today, over 200 members of the co-op farm an area covering about 220 hectares of vineyards. 34 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

A combination of Italian flair THE 2019 VINTAGE and German efficiency has seen Alto Alto Adige winegrowers describe 2019 as “difficult but full of potential” Adige emerge as Italy’s top white wine region in recent years. and of course nobody could predict what was to come in 2020! “Alto Adige’s winegrowers and winemakers are counting on a VISITING ALTO ADIGE Your base for exploring the steep vineyards will almost certainly be good vintage with promising quality,” the SudTirol Wein/Vini Alto Adige group reported. the delightful city of Bolzano (known as Bozen in German). The Parkhotel Laurin, in the heart of the Bolzano just a short stroll “The winter months of 2018-2019 were unusually warm with temperatures that at times were already spring-like. Furthermore, from the cathedral, is a delightful upmarket hotel with lovely gardens. with the exception of a heavy snowfall in early February, the winter Dining al a carte here is a real pleasure. turned out to be very dry. After a likewise warm and dry March, it turned really wet in the months of April and May, with the latter More affordable, but part of the same group and just around the also becoming too cool for the season. corner is the Hotel Greif, with a rooftop garden on a side street just off the Piazza Walther. This design hotel has different themes in each “In general, the spring of 2019 was distinguished by extreme room and offers free wifi and a gym. The staff are excellent and the weather phenomena: the first hailstorms already occurred in April. breakfasts big enough to set you up for a day of exploring the hillsides. Several cold spells brought along with them the danger of late frosts.” Vineyard work paid off. The local food is a heady mix of Italian and German influences. Think dishes like spatzle: small gnocchi made with eggs, flour, and water, “As a result of the course of the weather throughout the year, which can be eaten with a simple butter and chives condiment. A winegrowers were faced with great challenges,” said Hansjörg traditional meal will often involve some type of cured meat, the most Hafner, head of the Winegrowing Division at the Alto Adige famous being speck, a dry-cured, lightly smoked ham, eaten sliced by Fruitgrowing and Winegrowing Consulting Centre. itself or with rustic breads. There are also several local cheeses (you’ll see dairy cows on many of the hillsides) chief among them trentingrana. “The timely execution of various measures for care, such as leaf Desserts are often made with apples, pears or plums, as these fruits removal, was especially important. For that reason, the diligence and are widely cultivated in the region. The quality of food is generally high; commitment in the vineyards especially paid off this year.” you don’t necessarily have to go to a fancy restaurant - just stop at a local malga (mountain hut). Hans Terzer, winemaker at the Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano winery and also president of the Alto Adige Winemakers The name \"Alto Adige\" was created in the late 18th-century by the said: “With some varieties there were mild problems with rot, so French occupier Napoleon Bonaparte, the region was annexed to conscientious work in the vineyard and above all else a well-directed Italy in 1919, after World War I, but the Austrian/German influences selection during the harvest this year were very often decisive for the are dominant. During my recent stay, the centre of Bolzano was quality of the grapes. taken over by German bands for a massive beer festival that resembled a mini Oktoberfest. “But the lovely autumn weather during the last two weeks before the harvest really lent us a helping hand.” The province of Bolzano is dotted with picturesque small towns and is noteworthy for the fact that three cultures and languages live in Franz Haas, from the eponymous winery in Montan, said he was harmony: Italian, German and the local Ladin dialect. positively surprised. For wine lovers, Cantina Terlano, a co-operative founded in 1893 “As far as both white wines and red wines are concerned, a great in the village of Terlan, welcomes visitors and produces stellar deal of work was necessary in the vineyards,” he said. “The promise white wines. It is worth a walk to take in the sharply terraced is for fresh, lively, and sporty and dynamic wines.” Vorberg vineyards. THE FACTS In the village of Magré, Alois Lageder’s Löwengang winery is a relative If you are already in Europe, you can fly direct to Bolzano and hire a newcomer, built in 1995 to strict environmental and ecological criteria. car. Alternatively, Emirates Airline flies to Munich, from where you can catch a train or shuttle bus to Bolzano. Innsbruck is another nearby local airport. For more details visit www.suedtirol.info or www.altoadigewines.com. The writer was a guest of the Alto Adige Wine Summit and was assisted by Eurail, which offers a range of travel passes throughout the continent. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 35

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FUMÉ BLANC. A CASE OF MISTAKEN IDENTITY. CLIVE HARTLEY CALIFORNIAN winemaker Robert Mondavi invented the term in sees the style as a niche market that can demand a premium the 1960’s. He needed a new term to disassociate his wine from price compared to New Zealand sauvignon blanc which has the poor reputation sauvignon blanc had at the time. He got seen a slide in its price point. “It’s a far more complex wine his idea from the Loire Valley region of Pouilly Fumé. Mondavi than un-oaked sauvignon blanc and they have excellent ageing Fumé Blanc was released in 1968 and became so famous that characteristics. Our 2011 recently received 92 points from one other wineries around the globe copied it. well regarded reviewer, who scored it 86 in 2013. Obviously ageing well!” commented Owen. In Australia Fumé Blanc is officially a synonym for sauvignon blanc. But the term can be used for a number of different Marlborough styles of pungent sauvignon blanc polarizes wine styles. In most cases, it indicates an oak matured sauvignon drinkers. Some drinkers hate it whilst others won’t drink anything blanc, but, it can equally apply to a stainless steel or neutral other than SB. What Fumé Blanc does is make the variety more oak fermented lees contact driven style. Whilst the name was a approachable to both groups, especially chardonnay lovers. reference to Pouilly Fumé, it could also mimic the wine style of Bordeaux Blanc where you see sauvignon blanc and semillon Making these styles can be tricky. Chardonnay is matured in (and occasionally muscadelle) blended and barrel fermented. oak because it is regarded as a non-aromatic grape variety and needs a boost of aromas and flavours. However, sauvignon In Australia and New Zealand, we have seen a few shining blanc can be extremely aromatic and the fear would be is that stars of this style endure and work away in the shadows of the aromas and flavours clash with the oak. Patrick explains thumping aromatic fruit-bowls which are the trademarks of New their approach, “The marrying of fruit flavour and oak is the test. Zealand’s Marlborough Savvy Blanc. In the spirit of ‘every dog The goal is to ensure we have a balanced wine that delivers has it’s day’, we might be seeing the emergence of this more nice fruit flavours as well as subtle spicy oak nuances. The main reserved style. benefit of time in oak is the additional texture in the mouth. We believe our region gives us the opportunity to get that balance In Australia, sauvignon blanc does well in the Great Southern right.” Whilst at Sidewood they use 100% new French oak and Margaret River regions in WA, the Adelaide Hills in South Hogsheads and reckon the intense ripe tropical, lychee and Australia, and Orange in NSW. pear they get in their fruit “sucks up” the oak tannins providing a textural wine that doesn’t look oak dominant. Talking to producers, you can quickly see that they look to both Bordeaux and Loire for inspiration. Patrick Corbett at Singlefile Getting the right brand name is crucial in the success of a in the Great Southern has been making a Fumé Blanc since wine, and Fumé Blanc is a classic example. Owen confirms 2011. “We had the good fortune of trying a Château Margaux this, “From our past experience calling the wine an oaked Pavillon Blanc many years ago which inspired our interests in sauvignon blanc was a difficult sell, switching to Fumé has been producing a wine of this style. It’s particularly well suited to very positive and well received”. This view is also supported food,” he comments. Whilst Owen Inglis from Sidewood Estate by Craig Dunkerton from Woody Nook Wines in Margaret in the Adelaide Hills was a fan of sancerre ‘for decades’, Owen December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 37

In Australia Fumé Blanc is officially a synonym for Sauvignon Blanc. But the term can be used for a number of different styles. 38 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

River, who produce a ‘Fumé’ blend of sauvignon blanc and Bordeaux whites can be complex and rich wines, especially semillon (it would need 85% of sauvignon blanc to be able to when the top Châteaux make it their flagship white wine, with use the whole name!). They noticed declining sales in their prices to match. Graves and the inner sanctum of Pessac- stainless steel fermented sauvignon blanc and it was time for a Léognan are important sub regions for these white wines. change. “There definitely seems to be a resurgence in the style, Daniel Airoldi, a leading Bordeaux importer in Melbourne, particularly Margaret River. The barrel fermented white class at agrees;“For classic style Bordeaux Blanc, definitely Pessac- the Margaret River Wine Show has some fantastic wines of both Leognan. The iron rich gravel and sand subsoil really do bring the Fumé Blanc style and white Bordeaux styles. Winemakers a great acidity and mineral line into the wines. Usually barrel- love to drink them, we just have to get the consumer to catch aged semillon-sauvignon blends enjoy a few years cellaring on,” adds Craig. prior to reaching their peak.” In Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, the wines see little if no oak. According to a report published in 2018 in the International Pascal Jolivet wines, for example, uses all natural yeast and Journal of Wine Business Research only 4% of sauvignon a slow temperature controlled stainless steel fermentation blancs were labelled as Fumé Blancs so it will be interesting to followed by an extensive time on lees. The French say the see if the name starts to take hold in Australia and New Zealand influences of style relies heavily on the limestone, flint (silex) and whether we ever clear up what to expect in the bottle. and clay soils, the latter two responsible for more textured wines. The late Didier Dagueneau was an exception to the rule on oak with barrel work seen in his wines. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 39

SETTING A NEW COURSE FOR SUCCESS Watkins Family Wines launches its own label NIGEL HOPKINS IT’S one of the biggest wineries you’ve That’s about to change. In an amicable never heard of, yet it’s highly likely that at split, Fleurieu Vintners has been divided - some point many of us have drunk its wines. with Randall taking Boar’s Rock and some of the vineyards and the Watkins family That’s because Watkins Family Wines was taking the Chandlers Hills winery and cellar one half of Fleurieu Vintners, which operated door, a 7.5ha property with the historic wineries at Boar’s Rock in McLaren Vale Normans 5ha former Chais Clarendon and Chandlers Hill, near Clarendon in the shiraz and cabernet sauvignon vineyard, Adelaide Hills region, and was one of the and a massive Langhorne Creek vineyard largest premium bulk wine supply companies that has 140ha already planted and another in Australia’s cool climate regions. 300ha ready to go. Fleurieu Vintners was a partnership And although the Watkins family will between David and Ros Watkins and their continue to make premium bulk wine to friend from university days Warren Randall, be on-sold to other wineries, it has now starting in 1996 when they planted a launched its own label, Watkins Wines, 40ha vineyard at Currency Creek, initially with a range of premium bottled wines, and planning just to sell the grapes. From little in October reopened a now transformed things big things grow. cellar door in a bid to get the new label well and truly on the consumers’ radar. In 2012 the Fleurieu Vintners Group purchased Boar’s Rock winery in McLaren That’s also reflected a transition within Vale and by 2020 the group had five vineyards the Watkins family, with David and in McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Adelaide Ros now stepping back and their sons Hills and Currency Creek totalling 418ha, as Sam, as winemaking director, and Ben, well as the 10,000 tonne Boar’s Rock winery commercial director, taking day to day in McLaren Vale and the 5000 tonne former control: “It was a great way to end Norman’s winery in the Adelaide Hills. things,” Sam says. “There was lots of give and take and everybody was happy.” But all this was flying under the radar as far as the average wine consumer was And although a new label, they’re far concerned, despite the huge volumes of from starting from scratch. Although only premium wine being made and sold to 33, Sam has some 15 years winemaking other wineries. 40 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

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But all this was flying under the radar as far as the average wine consumer was concerned, despite the huge volumes of premium wine being made and sold to other wineries. experience under his belt already, with his first vintage in 2006 at the Chandlers Hill winery, followed by vintages in the Barossa and Coonawarra, Orange, Napa and Quinta da Roêda in Portugal before returning to Boar’s Rock in 2013. This vintage at Chandlers Hill he will process 2000 tonnes of grapes, still far short of what Sam was used to at Boar’s Rock, where he’d deal with 8000 tonnes or more. But this time he’ll be putting it into bottles under his own name for the first time, in three ranges. The Pilot range of five wines, Sam says, will be sourced from various growers and regions and includes a wild ferment sauvignon blanc, a moscato from the Riverland, a GSM, a merlot and a carbonic maceration grenache. The Watkins Classic range – “all about Langhorne Creek regionality” – includes a 42 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

chardonnay, a grenache rosé, a shiraz and The original Normans Wines was founded by happy to see more compatible ventures, cabernet sauvignon. All nine wines will have Jesse Norman in 1853. The Normans exited like Dawn Patrol, share the space. a retail price of $20. the company in 1982, when it was bought by the Horlin-Smith family who also took over the He’s especially excited by the potential Top of the range with be the 2016 vintage Light family’s vineyards at Chandlers Hill, near of their vineyard holdings at Langhorne shiraz and cabernet sauvignon sourced from Clarendon, which then became the Normans Creek, where he chairs the Langhorne Creek the Chandlers Hill vineyard, the Adelaide Hill headquarters. When Normans, as a brand, Wine Show. Soil testing has shown that the range, at $50. Sam describes these wines as collapsed it was taken over by West Australian Watkins vineyard is sitting over terra rossa “massive, showing what this vineyard can do, winery Xanadu and ultimately was bought by soil, just like Coonawarra, which he says with 30 months on oak but still showing great Fleurieu Vintners. helps explain the quality of their cabernet vibrancy.” He’s delighted that all 11 wines in sauvignon. And there’s a lot more vineyard his initial showing have scored three stars or Now new energy is being pumped into space, some 300ha, for them to plant. more in Winestate’s tastings. the winery and cellar door by Sam and Ben Watkins, who have brought coffee roaster No longer hiding their light under a barrel, He’s also determined to use the economies Dawn Patrol onto the site, bring in food trucks Watkins Wines are now on our radar. of scale of his operation and his experience every weekend to feed the masses, and face at Boar’s Rock to keep his wines affordable: the huge task of what to do now with their Previous page: Sam and Ben Watkins in barrel storage, “In South Australia, there’s no reason for winery and vineyards. a selection of Watkins Wines. anyone to drink crap wine,” he says. From left to right: Exterior of Watkins cellar door, interior “It’s a huge winery and we have massive of Watkins cellar door, Ben Watkins and Sam Watkins. With the former Norman’s winery he’s also vineyards,” Sam says, adding that he’d be inherited a great deal of winemaking history. December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 43

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL FOR chef and business owner Andrew peanut curry sauce and beef massaman then had the patience to wait for the all- Baturo and his wife Jaimee, Thai cuisine with pickled vegetables tucked into a allusive mooring in the inner-city locale. has always been a favourite. Their first housemade milk bun. holiday together was to Thailand and their There’s a small galley and prep area and chef at their French-Vietnamese inspired There’s a small stir fry section - goldband a sturdy timber table that runs down the restaurant, Libertine in the Barracks snapper and green peppercorns is highly centre of the vessel. Polished timber beams complex at Petrie Terrace in Brisbane’s recommended - then there’s curries and attached to the edges of the trawler act as inner west, Suwisa Phoonsang is Thai. soups followed by noodles, salads and bar seats looking out to the river. sides, all of which appeal but the fish So, it made sense to bring Suwisa on dumpling green curry and the Shark Bay The menu is simple and understandably board when they made the decision to tiger prawn noodles are standouts. seafood-centric. As you’d expect king open an extended pop-up called Naga prawns are a major feature, mainly sourced in the heart of the CBD complete with a All three rice dishes are crowd-pleasers, from Mooloolaba, about an hour’s drive from colourful fit out and a mouth-wateringly blue swimmer crab fried rice with lime is Brisbane. The bugs are gleamingly fresh vibrant Thai-inspired menu. light and delicious as is the pineapple and straight out of nearby Moreton Bay and king prawn and the more earthy brown rice the oysters come from further afield - Coffin It is quite a shift away from the Baturo’s with galangal and thai chilli paste is smoky Bay - as does the salmon, served raw with a other venues, apart from Libertine they are and packed with spice. tangy dressing, which hails from Tasmania. also co-founders of the popular Gresham Bar in the CBD, Walter’s Steakhouse, also The decor is as playful and colourful Fresh sourdough and some simple sauces in the CBD and Popolo Italian Kitchen as the menu designed by much lauded are all that accompanies the shellfish but overlooking the river in Southbank. interior designer Anna Spiro. With projects honestly that is all that’s needed - so fresh like Arc and Mr Percival’s at Howard and so high is the quality. At the time of Naga is located at the Eagle Street Pier Smith Wharves, Spiro is no stranger to publishing this article the Prawnster is BYO overlooking the wide reach of the river the challenge of bringing life and vigor to with a liquor license pending. Prawnster, and the Story Bridge, Naga took over from industrial workspaces and, in this case, Berth B1, Dockside Marina, 44 Ferry Street, Pony Dining, which was an early Covid she has done it using a tropical fruit palette Kangaroo Point. Phone 0450 447 886. casualty earlier in the year. of lime, orange and lemon, modernist furnishings and a floor-to-ceiling mango Top right: Dontbekoi cocktails from Naga restaurant. The Eagle Street Pier is slated for hued bookshelf paired with an industrial Bottom left: Pud Thai with Moreton Bay Bug from Naga. redevelopment at some stage in the future (a style bar and open kitchen. Bottom right: Thai dishes from Naga restaurant. date will be set once more certainty returns to the property market) hence the pop up. The high ceiling is festooned with thousands of white paper lanterns creating And while a permanent place in the a cloudlike effect and there’s plenty of redeveloped site is on offer for now Baturo colour in the view from the wraparound and his team are concentrating on the large verandah that overlooks the Story Bridge and colourful menu and killer cocktail list. and up-lit cliffs of Kangaroo Point. Naga, Upper Level, Eagle Street Pier, 18/45 Eagle The menu is designed for sharing and St, Brisbane. Phone (07) 3220 0505. begins with a section helpfully labelled ‘Start here’. With dishes like 8-hour masterstock Also taking in the river vistas is The braised Jack’s Creek black angus ribs, Prawnster, a seafood eatery on board a slipper lobster with rice crackers and vintage prawn trawler moored at Kangaroo Point in Brisbane’s inner east. Built in the ‘70’s the trawler named Del Fuego was decommissioned after a lengthy career hauling its delicious catch off the north Queensland coast for a couple of decades. Martin Brennan and his wife Donna had the idea to repurpose the vessel into a floating restaurant and 44 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

Are our range of Variety RRP premium alternative Prosecco $21.00 varietal wines, including Fiano $21.00 selected less familiar Arinto $21.00 varieties of Italian and Tempranillo $21.00 Iberian origin. Rose GSM $21.00 Carmenere $21.00 Fiano $21.00 Durif $21.00 Saperavi $21.00 Vermentino $21.00 Chardonnay $21.00 Graciano $21.00 Lagrein $21.00 Monastrell $21.00 Montepulciano $21.00 I may not speak Italian but I am fluent in Prosecco Trade contact: Distributor contact: Kim O’Hara Bouchon Wines & Spirits Periscope Management 16 Prospect Street, Fortitude Valley Qld 4006 Mob: +61 421 077 344 Tel: +61 07 3854 0407 [email protected] [email protected] Distributor contact: Distributor contact: Claret & Co | Scott Teasdale Unique Wine Solutions | Stephen Nankervis 13 View Street, Subiaco WA 6008 PO Box 106, Port Melbourne Vic 3207 Mob: +61 447 087 998 Mob: +61 414 388 046 [email protected] [email protected]

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING BONDI Junction has seen a blizzard of new trend for gourmet salad bowls, burgers and The confidence is justified. Okami offers an developments in recent years, including a pizzas is well to the fore. Meat lovers are all-you-can-eat spread of 30 dishes for only spate of residential apartments. Walking spoiled with Wingham pasture-fed rump with $34.80 per person, minimum of two people. past soaring blocks such as Bondi Central, rustic fries, Ranger Valley 150 Day grain-fed There is a stipulation that you have to get you are left in no doubt that the suburb scotch fillet with truffle creamy mash, king through all that chow within two hours. Many has transitioned to a sub-regional centre brown mushrooms, roast onions and Diane Japanese favourites are on offer, including full of penthouses, luxury units and even sauce or sirloin with smoked potato gratin teriyaki steak, seafood tempura, chicken more upscale shopping. On the corner of and black garlic butter. katsu and miso steak. There's even a dessert Denison and Oxford Streets, the NewLife menu centred on vanilla, sesame and green Bondi Junction development fills the space In addition to the duck ragu pie, we also tea ice-cream and mochi rice cakes. once occupied by the old Mill Hill Hotel and ordered the roast pumpkin tortellini with at its base is The Mill. A decidedly more Japanese pumpkin, ricotta, pine nuts, goat's The value is unbeatable and the semi- upmarket food and entertainment venue curd, sage butter and lemon. For those permanent queue outside Okami's Marrickville than its vintage predecessor. after definitive luxe pub grub, check out the premises testifies to the appeal of top-quality herb-crusted chicken schnitzel, fish and Japanese food at a near giveaway price. Only a week after opening in early October, chips - barramundi, of course - or roast lamb Better yet, it's also BYO. Okami Restaurant, The Mill was buzzing on the night of our cutlets with chickpea mayo, mushy peas, Shops 6 & 7, 359 Illawarra Rd, Marrickville; visit. An even split of bright young things, lamb shoulder croquette and potato gratin. okamirestaurant.com.au. professionals and older, well-heeled Eastern Suburbs residents. The high-end fit-out This is Bondi so cocktails are prominent from The NSW government has been pumping includes heritage features from the old Mill \"on-tap\" specials such as espresso martini billions into making Parramatta Sydney's Hill Hotel juxtaposed against the latest in and classics including Cosmopolitans and second CBD. In late October, the first modern design. You have to place food and Negronis. Three French rosés, including a stage of the $3.2 billion Parramatta Square drink orders at the burnished wood bar, but 2017 Terres de Saint Louis Grenache Cinsault precinct - a 3000 square metre public that only adds to the relaxed ambience. Syrah from Provence, tip the hat to the space bigger than Martin Place - opened ragingly popular trend. The well-curated wine for business with some of the city's most The Kospetas clan - Harris, Steven and list veers from Aussie bottlings through Italy, significant dining names heading west. Jim - partnered with the TWT Property Group Greece, France and New Zealand. Sports to transform the space, which includes the events are regular drawcards, so there are 12 Parramatta's major eat strip - Church Street facades of renovated historic terraces. The beers on tap and 8 bottled choices such as - is no slouch when it comes to sophisticated family have been leading lights of Sydney's Stone & Wood Pacific Ale, Peroni and Asahi. dining and bars, so the newcomers will find dining and bar scene for more than 30 years, a demanding clientele. Cicciabella, Maurice heading the Universal Hotels group. Other There's only two desserts - a dark Terzini's Bondi trattoria, has launched a acclaimed properties include 1821, the plush chocolate pie with buttermilk ice-cream second outpost in Parramatta Square, with Greek restaurant in the CBD, the Civic Hotel and mini doughnuts with Nutella fondue, a menu created by head chef Nic Wong and Kinsela's. The Mill's kitchen is helmed walnuts and vanilla ice-cream - which is a (ex Cho Cho San). Ibby Moubadder and by Vaughan Chapman, formerly with Marcus nod to the Kospetas Greek heritage and Jorge Farah - Henrietta, Nour and Cuckoo Levy's Marvan Group, and the team-up has a rif on loukoumades. Totally in sync with Callay - have debuted a new Asian concept delivered an exceptionally good bistro menu, Bondi Junction's recent change of pace called LilyMu. Rivareno Gelato, the Italian mixing modern Australian cuisine with Asian and influx of new inhabitants, The Mill hits artisan ice expert, premiered its first Aussie and Italian influences. all the right notes from the chillax vibe outlet in 2013 and has opened a third outpost through the decor and come-back-for-more at Parramatta Square. If you are not a local, The signature main is duck ragu pie food. The Mill, 59b Oxford Street, Bondi the expanded dining scene is well worth the with thyme and porcini accompanied Junction; themillbondi.com.au. trip as much for the architecture as the food. with Parisian-style mash and an intensely For more information, go to psq.com.au. flavoured jus. Even on repeat visits, it is a go- In October, Time Out named Marrickville to choice because all of the ingredients are as one of the top 10 coolest neighbourhoods Top: Food from The Mill bar and restaurant. the best they can be from the flaky pastry to in the world. Restaurateurs have to please a the slow-braised duck served directly from very demanding community of diners in the an individual cooking pan. For the amount of Inner West hotspot and Okami has proved a meat and top-class presentation, the price major hit. First off, the Illawarra Road venue of $22 is scarcely believable. belongs to a chain, but that didn't stop Din Tai Fung receiving a Michelin star and you should The shared plates are equally inspired from ditch outdated prejudices about Okami, too. super-fresh burrata with date and tarragon paste to the cheekily-named KFC - Korean The company was founded in Melbourne fried cauliflower, yuzu, pepper glaze and in 2013 and now has 26 branches togarashi aka Japanese seven spice. The in Victoria. Marrickville was the first salmon crudo is another standout, spiked Sydney outpost, opening in August, and with tare, chilli, fried onions, cucumber and another quickly followed in Silverwater in crispy dumpling skins. October. Okami has ambitious plans to launch between 10 and 15 Sydney outlets The Mill is open for lunch, so the ongoing by the end of next year. 46 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS ADELAIDE’S SkyCity casino has done us the Singh family who founded it, now headed has one of the best winery restaurant locations all a favour with the restoration of Adelaide by matriarch Mrs Anant Singh AM, with son in South Australia, overlooking a landscape of Railway Station’s former Great Dining Hall, Amrik and daughter Sheila undertaking day neatly tended cabernet sauvignon vineyards, transforming a once grand space more to day management. rolling hills, gum trees, dams and grazing recently degraded to a storage area with a cows. But there’s more to this sleek combined $6 million make-over. Its discreet basement location has helped restaurant-cellar door than that. make it a favourite of both captains of industry Now renamed The Guardsman, it looks far and politicians alike, with one former state New chef Tom Robinson, who has taken more stylish than it ever did when it was built premier once declaring that he would be over from long-standing chef James Brinklow, in 1928. The once heavy Art Deco basic happy to eat his last meal there. has a passion for local produce and a nose-to- styling has been lightened up by design tail philosophy that are both front and centre firm du jour Studio Gram, responsible Not surprisingly it’s especially popular on his new Provenance menu that features for many of Adelaide’s new wave of with visiting Indian cricket teams, which dishes such as spring vegetable tart with soft restaurants, with luxurious woodwork, sleek helps account for the extraordinary cricket egg and ricotta, Wiltipoll lamb with saltbush, leather upholstery, café chairs, tiled floors bat collection on its walls, along with a olives and carrot, or cured Hirasama kingfish and more. It looks good. collection of Tom Gleghorn paintings that with apple and cucumber. Menus range from overlook a splendid dining room featuring three to seven courses, with an option of And even though the original dining glossy mahogany tables, low lights and paired wines. room once hosted the august members of sumptuous style. Adelaide’s Beefsteak and Burgundy Club Robinson has plenty on which to draw: a it’s unlikely its menu ever extended much One of the reasons Jasmin continues to selection of micro-herbs including mustard further than the classic staples of 1950’s thrive is that both its cooking and service leaf, cress, borage, nasturtium and veggies Anglo-centric cuisine, which really wasn’t standards remain of such consistent high are due for harvest, whilst quince, red up to much. quality. Signature dishes such as its delicious apple, fig and pear trees are maturing in the estate gardens. There’s a flock That’s now been put well into the past by outstanding beef vindaloo and even more of 40 grass-fed Wiltipoll and Dorper breeding inaugural chef Luke Brabin who, having fiery chicken tindaloo have never left the ewes, whose lambs are raised in paddocks worked his way across restaurants in menu, its tandoori dishes such as Punjabi next to the winery and restaurant, while the Australia, China and Japan, with chefs lamb tandoori or tandoori mushrooms are estate dams are full of yabbies and rainbow such as Gordon Ramsay, has started with a exemplary, and once you start on the entrees and brown trout to be featured on future thoroughly contemporary menu using entirely you wonder why you’ve ordered anything menus. Plans to produce estate eggs and South Australian produce to produce pub more. Watch for daily specials such as the honey are underway. The Lane, Ravenswood classics but some with Middle Eastern, Indian pan-fried garfish dusted with masala spices. Lane, Hahndorf. Open for lunch daily. Phone and Asian-inspired touches. (08) 8388 1250. Little wonder that visiting celebrity chef Start with kingfish ceviche or terrific local Marco Pierre White recently described a meal Top: Interior of The Guardsman. San Jose salumi, then perhaps a Mayura at Jasmin as “without question the best Indian Above: Entrance of the Guardsman. Station waygu burger, Coorong mullet with meal of my life. Where Mrs Singh is a genius young coconut salad, or lamb shoulder with is she doesn’t believe in change, she believes cous cous and lemon (a dish for two to share). in refinement.” Jasmin, 31 Hindmarsh Square, There’s a good range and all very well priced. Adelaide. Open for lunch Thursday and Friday, dinner Tuesday to Saturday; phone And although those Beef and Burgundy (08) 8223 7837. chaps (and they were all chaps) would have loved their wine, they didn’t have the choice After a six-month hiatus, The Lane they now have here and would go straight Vineyard Restaurant has reopened its past the ‘small but OK’ limited wine list to the doors, with a new chef, new menu and new SkyCity master list of 7500 labels curated by emphasis on home-grown produce. sommelier Jimmy Parham. And where once they might have had two or three beers to If the view was the only good thing about choose from, now there’s around 20 on tap. The Lane, just 3km from Hahndorf in the The Guardsman, Adelaide Railway Station, Adelaide Hills, it would probably be enough. It 125 North Terrace, Adelaide. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday; phone (08) 8212 2811. One Adelaide restaurant where social distancing has caused very little disruption is Indian favourite Jasmin, which has long been noted as much for its well-spaced tables as for its calm and comfortable surroundings. The fact that it has this year clocked up exactly four decades of providing some of the finest Indian food in Australia is a tribute to December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 47

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 48 W I N E S TAT E December 2020

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Follow us and keep up to Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque date with all our latest 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage wine info, tastings and 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 events on facebook, 1993 $90 1991 $850  twitter and instagram. 1994 $120 1992 $270 1995 $110 1993 $240 Connect on social with 1996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  Winestate 1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  1998 $160  1996 $260 www.facebook.com/Winestate- 1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 Magazine 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 twitter.com/winestateed 2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 www.instagram.com/winestate/ 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 www.winestate.com.au 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 1901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350  IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260  Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370  1999 $550  1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190  2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 December 2020 W I N E S TAT E 49

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN LIMESTONE COAST BISSELL PASSES BALNAVES family for the opportunity to initially ZEMA ESTATE LOSES LOVED BATON design and build the winery back in 1996 PATRIARCH but also for the 25 years I have spent BALNAVES of Coonawarra – one of the here,” Bissell said. COONAWARRA lost one of its great region’s most popular cellar door stops characters when Demetrio Zema died - has undergone a generational change “I spent the majority of my career working peacefully in May. He was 87. A former with winemaker Pete Bissell retiring after in Coonawarra and was given the freedom painter, Zema arrived in Coonawarra in a quarter of a century. Bissell has been to do experiments, evolve the styles and 1959 with his wife Francesca and was the a winemaker for 40 years but will not go in a unique direction.” founder and owner of Zema Estate along be leaving the industry altogether. He with their sons Matt (deceased) and Nick. will remain in Penola and work on his New senior winemaker Jenkins was own Wrattonbully vineyard, as well as assistant winemaker in the Clare Valley at Demetrio had a passionate dream becoming a grandfather. Pikes Wines before returning to Balnaves of creating quality wine that stemmed as assistant winemaker in 2018. back to his ancestral home in Calabria in Jacinta Jenkins, who has been working southern Italy. His father and grandfather under Bissell, took over as chief winemaker The Balnaves Wine Room overlooks a had vineyards and made wine just for from July 1. She is the daughter of Wynns tranquil pond full of bird life, surrounded the family. Coonawarra Estate viticulturist Allen by vineyards and over 900 beautiful rose Jenkins. bushes. He established Zema Estate in 1982 and began a multi-generational tradition Originally from New Zealand, Bissell FOOD & WINE AMONGST THE of family grape-growing and winemaking. gained experience working in France, VINES Today, Zema Estate is one of the region’s and at Australian wineries including favourite cellar doors. The Zema family Mountadam, Lindemans Hunter River, Leo CAFÉ in the Vines is Hollick Estates take great pride in their achievements Buring, and Pipers Brook in Tasmania. He newest venture, serving up breakfast and and have never lost sight of Demetrio’s has also worked for Wynns Coonawarra lunch daily. From coffee and fresh-baked original philosophy of growing the Estate and Penfolds. scrolls to hearty burgers and tantalising best possible grapes to – consistently pizzas, the menu focuses on providing produce exceptional wines, said son “I am very grateful to the Balnaves comfort food and supporting Limestone Nick Zema. Coast producers. Favourites include egg and bacon rolls and lamb giros. The The eldest of eight children, Demetrio café is open seven days for takeaways, loved returning to Italy and he spoke of Monday-Friday 8am-3pm, weekends his homeland with fondness. He was a 9am-3pm. real character and loved to greet visitors to the cellar door in Coonawarra. In addition to his family and wine interests, he was an avid hunter, loved his dogs and was a huge Moto GP fan. 50 W I N E S TAT E December 2020