149 100m-wide jayasindhu (moat) that would and west gates, found at the end of dirt have stopped all but the hardiest invaders trails. The east gate (Map p130) was used as in their tracks. This architectural layout is a location in Tomb Raider, where the bad an expression of Mt Meru surrounded by guys broke into the ‘tomb’ by pulling down the oceans. a giant (polystyrene!) apsara. The causeway at the west gate (Map p130) of Angkor Thom It is the gates that grab you first, flanked has completely collapsed, leaving a jumble by a vast representation of the Churning of of ancient stones sticking out of the soil, like the Ocean of Milk, 54 demons and 54 gods victims of a terrible historical pile-up. engaged in an epic tug of war on the cause- way. Each gate towers above the visitor, the In the centre of the walled enclosure magnanimous faces of the Bodhisattva Av- are the city’s most important monuments, alokiteshvara staring out over the kingdom. including Bayon, Baphuon, the Royal En- Imagine being a peasant in the 13th century closure, Phimeanakas and the Terrace of approaching the forbidding capital for the Elephants. With all these temples and sites firsttime.Itwouldhavebeenanawe-inspiring to discover, visitors should set aside a half yet unsettling experience to enter such a day to explore Angkor Thom in depth. gateway and come face to face with the di- vine power of the god-kings. Bayon បាយ័ន Te m ple s o f A n g ko r GBA naetygtokinonrg TThhoemre & A roun d The south gate (Map p130) is most popu- At the heart of Angkor Thom is the lar with visitors, as it has been fully restored 12th-century Bayon (បាយន័ ; Map p130; and many of the heads (mostly copies) re- main in place. The gate is on the main road h7.30am-5.30pm), the mesmerising, if into Angkor Thom from Angkor Wat, and it slightly mind-bending, state temple of gets very busy. More peaceful are the east Central Area of Angkor Thom e0 400 m 0 0.2 miles Preah Pool Northern Ave North Gate of Palilay Angkor Thom (500m); D Preah Khan (2.5km) Pool Food Preah Pithu Stalls Tep Pranam Pool Pool Gate Moat Pool Gate Terrace of North Royal the Leper King Kleang Enclosure Pool Prasat Victory Gate (1km); Suor Prat Pool DTa Prohm (3.5km) Central Ave of Victory Square Phimeanakas Terrace Pool of Elephants South Gate Gate Main Kleang Moat Entrance Pools Baphuon Pool Pool Pool Bayon Pool D Pool D East Gate of West Gate of Main Angkor Thom (1km) Angkor Thom (1km) Entrance Pool DSouth Gate of Angkor Thom (1.2km); Angkor Wat (3.3km)
150 Te m ple s o f A n g ko r BAGnaetygtokinonrg TThhoemre & A roun d Architectural Layout Jayavarman VII. It epitomises the creative genius and inflated ego of Cambodia’s most Unlike Angkor Wat, which looks impressive celebrated king. Its 54 Gothic towers are from all angles, Bayon looks rather like a famously decorated with 216 gargantuan glorified pile of rubble from a distance. It’s smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara that bear only when you enter the temple and make more than a passing resemblance to the your way up to the third level that its magic great king himself. The Bayon is decorated becomes apparent. with 1.2km of extraordinary bas-reliefs in- corporatingmore than 11,000 figures, depict- The basic structure of Bayon comprises a ing everyday life in 12th-century Cambodia. simple three levels, which correspond more Unique even among its cherished con- or less to three distinct phases of building. temporaries, the architectural audacity was This is because Jayavarman VII began con- a definitive political statement about the struction of this temple at an advanced age, change from Hinduism to Mahayana Bud- so he was never confident it would be com- dhism. Known as the ‘face temple’ thanks pleted. Each time one phase was complet- to its iconic visages, these huge heads glare ed, he moved on to the next. The first two down from every angle, exuding power and levels are square and adorned with bas- control with a hint of humanity. This was reliefs. They lead up to a third, circular precisely the blend required to hold sway level, with the towers and their faces. over such a vast empire, ensuring the dispa- rate and far-flung population yielded to his Some say that the Khmer empire was di- magnanimous will. As you walk around, a vided into 54 provinces at the time of Bayon’s dozen or more of the heads are visible at any construction, hence the all-seeing eyes of Av- one time: full face or in profile, sometimes alokiteshvara (or Jayavarman VII) keeping level with your eyes, sometimes staring watch on the kingdom’s outlying subjects. down from on high. Bayon is now known to have been built by Bas-Reliefs Jayavarman VII, though for many years its origins were unknown. Shrouded by dense Angkor Wat’s bas-reliefs may grab the head- jungle, it also took researchers some time to lines, but Bayon’s are even more extensive, realise that it stands in the exact centre of decorated with 1.2km of extraordinary carv- the city of Angkor Thom. There is still much ings depicting more than 11,000 figures. The mystery associated with Bayon – such as its famous carvings on the outer wall of the exact function and symbolism – and this first level show vivid scenes of everyday life seems only appropriate for a monument in 12th-century Cambodia. The bas-reliefs whose signature is an enigmatic smiling face. on the second level do not have the epic The eastward orientation of Bayon leads proportions of those on the first level and most people to visit early in the morning. tend to be fragmented. The reliefs described However, Bayon looks equally good in the are those on the first level. The sequence as- late afternoon. A Japanese team is restoring sumes that you enter Bayon from the east several outer areas of the temple. and view the reliefs in a clockwise direction. BAYON INFORMATION Chams on the Run BAS-RELIEF The Bayon Information Center (Map Just south of the east gate is a three-level p104; %092-165083; www.angkor-jsa.org/ panorama. On the first tier, Khmer soldiers bic; admission US$2; h8am-4pm Tue, march off to battle – check out the elephants Wed & Fri-Sun) is a well-presented and and the ox-carts, which are almost exactly informative exhibition on the history of like those still used in Cambodia today. The the Khmer empire and the restoration second tier depicts coffins being carried projects around Angkor, that includes back from the battlefield. In the centre of some short documentary films. Set the third tier, Jayavarman VII, shaded by in the beautiful compound of the parasols, is shown on horseback followed by Japanese government team for Safe- legions of concubines (to the left). guarding Angkor (JSA) on the outskirts of Siem Reap, it’s a big saving on the Linga Worship BAS-RELIEF Angkor National Museum. The first panel north of the southeastern corner shows Hindus praying to a linga (phallic symbol). This image was probably originally a Buddha, later modified by a Hindu king.
151 Bayon The Chams The Chams A Retreat Retreat The Circus Land of North Comes to Plenty Gate Town Doorway Doorway Library The Sacking of Victory First Level Angkor Parade Doorway Second Level Doorway Pool The All- The Chams Enter Seeing King Angkor West Third East Main Gate Level Gate Entrance Civil War Chams on the Run Doorway Second Level Doorway Pool First Level Library Linga Te m ple s o f A n g ko r BAGnaetygtokinonrg TThhoemre & A roun d Military Doorway Doorway Worship Procession The Naval Military Chams Battle Procession South Vanquished Gate Naval Battle BAS-RELIEF some armed, confront each other, and the violence escalates until elephants and war- The Naval Battle panel has some of the best- riors join the melee. carved reliefs. The scenes depict a naval bat- tle between the Khmers and the Chams (the latter with head coverings), and everyday life The All-Seeing King BAS-RELIEF around Tonlé Sap lake where the battle was The fighting depicted in the Civil War pan- el, just south of this panel, continues on a fought. Look for images of people picking smaller scale. An antelope is being swal- lice from each other’s hair, of hunters and, towards the western end of the panel, of a lowed by a gargantuan fish; among the smaller fish is a prawn, under which an in- woman giving birth. scription proclaims that the king will seek The Chams Vanquished BAS-RELIEF out those in hiding. In the Chams Vanquished, scenes from daily Victory Parade BAS-RELIEF life are featured while the battle between the Khmers and the Chams takes place on the This panel depicts a procession that includes the king (carrying a bow). Presum- shore of Tonlé Sap lake, where the Chams ably it is a celebration of his victory. are soundly thrashed. Scenes include two people playing chess, a cockfight and wom- en selling fish in the market. The scenes of The Circus Comes to Town BAS-RELIEF meals being prepared and served are in cel- At the western corner of the northern wall is a Khmer circus. A strongman holds three ebration of the Khmer victory. dwarfs, and a man on his back is spinning Military Procession BAS-RELIEF a wheel with his feet; above is a group of tightrope walkers. To the right of the circus, The most western relief of the south gallery, the royal court watches from a terrace, below depicting a military procession, is unfin- ished, as is the panel showing elephants be- which is a procession of animals. Some of the reliefs in this section remain unfinished. ing led down from the mountains. Brahmans have been chased up two trees by tigers. A Land of Plenty BAS-RELIEF Civil War BAS-RELIEF The two rivers, one next to the doorpost and the other a few metres to the right, are This panel depicts scenes that some schol- teeming with fish. ars maintain is a civil war. Groups of people,
1 52 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Temples of Angkor Cambodia is the undisputed temple capital of Asia, and we’re not just talking about the holiest of holies – the one and only Angkor Wat. Angkor is heaven on earth, but there are also temples dotted all over Siem Reap, the epicentre of the empire, that attest to the glories of Khmer civilisation. CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES ©
153MARTIN PUDDY / GETTY IMAGES © 1. Ta Prohm (p158) Jungle trees are entwined with temples at Angkor’s most atmospheric ruin. 2. Sra Srang (p159) Only the stone base remains of the temple that once stood in this peaceful basin. 3. Bayon (p149) There are more than 210 faces of Cambodia’s most celebrated king, Avalokiteshvara, carved here. 4. Banteay Srei (p165) A Hindu temple with stunning stone carvings, known as the art gallery of Angkor. TRAVELSTOCK44 - JUERGEN HELD / GETTY IMAGES © WIBOWO RUSLI / GETTY IMAGES ©
154 The Chams Retreat BAS-RELIEF side, the retaining wall of the second level was fashioned, in the 16th century, into a re- On the lowest level of this unfinished three- clining Buddha (p154) 60m in length. tiered scene, the Cham armies are being defeated and expelled from the Khmer king- Baphuon is approached by a 200m el- dom. The next panel depicts the Cham ar- evated walkway made of sandstone, and mies advancing, and the badly deteriorated the central structure is 43m high. Clam- panel shows the Chams (on the left) chasing ber under the elevated causeway leading the Khmers. to Baphuon for an incredible view of the hundreds of pillars supporting it. The Sacking of Angkor BAS-RELIEF In its heyday, Baphuon would have been This panel shows the war of 1177, when the one of the most spectacular of Angkor’s Khmers were defeated by the Chams, and temples. Located 200m northwest of Bay- Angkor was pillaged. The wounded Khmer on, it’s a pyramidal representation of myth- king is being lowered from the back of an el- ical Mt Meru. Construction probably began ephant and a wounded Khmer general is be- under Suryavarman I and was later com- ing carried on a hammock suspended from a pleted by Udayadityavarman II. It marked pole. Directly above, despairing Khmers are the centre of the capital that existed before getting drunk. The Chams (on the right) are the construction of Angkor Thom. Te m ple s o f A n g ko r GBA naetgptkhiounrognTThhoemre & A roun d in hot pursuit of their vanquished enemy. The Chams Enter Angkor BAS-RELIEF Royal Enclosure & Phimeanakas ភមិ ានអាកាស This panel depicts a meeting of the Khmer and Cham armies. Notice the flag bearers Phimeanakas (Map p130) stands close to the among the Cham troops (on the right). The centre of a walled area that once housed the Chams were defeated in the war, which end- royal palace. There’s very little left of the ed in 1181, as depicted on the first panel in palace today except for two sandstone pools the sequence. near the northern wall. Once the site of royal ablutions, these are now used as swimming Baphuon បាពនួ holes by local children. Phimeanakas means ‘Celestial Palace’, and some scholars say that Some have called Baphuon (Map p130; it was once topped by a golden spire. h7.30am-5.30pm) the ‘world’s largest jigsaw puzzle’. Before the civil war the Baphuon was Today, Phimeanakas only hints at its painstakingly taken apart piece-by-piece by former splendour and looks a little worse a team of archaeologists, but their metic- for wear. The temple is another pyrami- ulous records were destroyed during the dal representation of Mt Meru, with three Khmer Rouge regime, leaving experts with levels. Most of the decorative features are 300,000 stones to put back into place. After broken or have disappeared. Still, it is years of excruciating research, this temple worth clambering up to the second and has been partially restored. On the western third levels for good views of Baphuon. THE RECLINING BUDDHA Construction of the palace began under OF BAPHUON Rajendravarman II, although it was used by Jayavarman V and Udayadityavarman On the western side of Baphuon is a I. It was later added to and embellished reclining Buddha about 60m in length. by Jayavarman VII and his successors. The The unfinished figure is difficult to make royal enclosure is fronted to the east by the out, but the head is on the northern side Terrace of Elephants. The northwestern wall of the wall and the gate is where the of the Royal Enclosure is very atmospheric, hips should be; to the left of the gate with immense trees and jungle vines cloak- protrudes an arm. When it comes to the ing the outer side, easily visible on a forest legs and feet – the latter are entirely walk from Preah Palilay to Phimeanakas. gone – imagination must suffice. This huge project, undertaken by the Bud- Preah Palilay ព្រះប៉ាលឡី ៃ dhist faithful 500 years ago, reinforces the notion that Angkor was never entire- Preah Palilay (Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm) is ly abandoned. about 200m north of the Royal Enclosure’s northern wall. It was erected during the rule of Jayavarman VII and originally housed
155 a Buddha, which has long since vanished. nied by the court and princesses, the latter Sadly, the immense trees that used to loom adorned with beautiful rows of pearls. large over the temple have been cut down, removing some of the romance of the place On the southern side of the Terrace of the in the process, although the large trunks are Leper King (facing the Terrace of Elephants), already showing some signs of regrowth. there is access to the front wall of a hidden terrace that was covered up when the out- Tep Pranam ទេពប្រណម្យ er structure was built – a terrace within a Tep Pranam (h7.30am-5.30pm), an 82m by terrace. The four tiers of apsaras and other 34m cruciform Buddhist terrace 150m east figures, including nagas, look as fresh as if of Preah Palilay, was once the base of a pago- they had been carved yesterday, thanks to da of lightweight construction. Nearby is a being covered up for centuries. Some of the 4.5m-high Buddha, but it’s a reconstruction figures carry fearsome expressions. As you of the original. A group of Buddhist nuns follow the inner wall of the Terrace of the lives in a wooden structure close by. Leper King, notice the increasingly rough chisel marks on the figures, an indication that this wall was never completed, like many of the temples at Angkor. Preah Pithu ព្រះពធិ រូ Terrace of Te m ple s o f A n g ko r GAT eneptgtkPiornragnTTahhmoemre & A roun d Preah Pithu (h7.30am-5.30pm), located Elephants ទលី ានជលដ់ ំរ ី across Northern Ave from Tep Pranam, is a The 350m-long Terrace of Elephants (Map group of 12th-century Hindu and Buddhist temples enclosed by a wall. It includes p130) was used as a giant viewing stand for public ceremonies and served as a base for some beautifully decorated terraces and the king’s grand audience hall. Try to im- guardian animals in the form of elephants and lions. It sees few tourists so is a good agine the pomp and grandeur of the Khmer empire at its height, with infantry, cavalry, place to explore at a leisurely pace, taking horse-drawn chariots and elephants parad- in the impressive jungle backdrop. ing across Central Square in a colourful procession, pennants and standards aloft. Looking on is the god-king, shaded by multi- Terrace of the tiered parasols and attended by mandarins Leper King ទលី ានព ្រះគម្លង់ The Terrace of the Leper King (Map p130) is and handmaidens bearing gold and silver utensils. just north of the Terrace of Elephants. Dat- The Terrace of Elephants has five piers ex- ing from the late 12th century, it is a 7m-high platform, on top of which stands a nude, tending towards the Central Square – three in the centre and one at each end. The mid- though sexless, statue. The front retaining dle section of the retaining wall is decorated walls of the terrace are decorated with at least five tiers of meticulously executed carv- with life-size garudas and lions; towards either end are the two parts of the famous ings. On the southern side of the Terrace of parade of elephants, complete with their the Leper King, there is access to a hidden terrace with exquisitely preserved carvings. Khmer mahouts. The aforementioned statue is yet anoth- er of Angkor’s mysteries. The original of the statue is held at Phnom Penh’s National Kleangs & Prasat Suor Museum, and various theories have been ad- Prat ប្រាសាទឃ្ាល ងំ នងិ ប្រាសាទសួព្រ័ត vanced to explain its meaning. Legend has it that at least two of the Angkor kings had Along the east side of Central Square are leprosy, and the statue may represent one of two groups of buildings called Kleangs. The them. Another theory – a more likely expla- North Kleang and South Kleang may at one nation – is that the statue is of Yama, the god time have been palaces. The North Kleang has of death, and that the Terrace of the Leper been dated from the period of Jayavarman King housed the royal crematorium. V. Along Central Square in front of the two The carved walls include seated apsaras, Kleangs are 12 laterite towers – 10 in a row kings wearing pointed diadems, armed with and two more at right angles facing the Ave short double-edged swords and accompa- of Victory – known as the Prasat Suor Prat, meaning ‘Temple of the Tightrope Dancers’.
156 heng (Map p130; h5am-7pm) is the sunset Archaeologists believe the towers, which view over Angkor Wat. For many years, the whole affair turned into a circus, with form an honour guard along Central Square, crowds of tourists ascending the slopes of were constructed by Jayavarman VII. It is the hill and jockeying for space. Numbers are likely that each one originally contained restricted to just 300 visitors at any one time, either a linga or a statue. It is said artists so get here early (4pm) to guarantee a sun- performed for the king on tightropes or set spot. The temple, built by Yasovarman I rope bridges strung between these towers, (r 889–910), has five tiers, with seven levels. hence the name. According to 13th-century Chinese emissary Chou Ta-Kuan, the tow- Phnom Bakheng also lays claim to being ers of Prasat Suor Prat were also used for home to the first of the temple-mountains public trials of sorts. During a dispute the built in the vicinity of Angkor. Yasovarman two parties would be made to sit inside two I chose Phnom Bakheng over the Roluos towers, one party eventually succumbing to area, where the earlier capital (and temple- illness and proven guilty. mountains) had been located. AROUND ANGKOR THOM The temple-mountain has five tiers, with D seven levels (including the base and the Baksei summit). At the base are – or were – 44 Te m ple s o f A n g ko r AGB raektostueinindgCAhTnahgemkrkoerro&nTAghroomun dChamkrong បក្ចសី ាកំ ្រុងtowers. Each of the five tiers had 12 towers. Located southwest of the south gate of An- The summit of the temple has four towers gkor Thom, Baksei Chamkrong (Map p130; at the cardinal points of the compass as well h7.30am-5.30pm) is one of the few brick edi- as a central sanctuary. All of these numbers fices in the immediate vicinity of Angkor. A are of symbolic significance. The seven lev- well-proportioned though petite temple, it els, for example, represent the seven Hindu was once decorated with a covering of lime heavens, while the total number of towers, mortar. Like virtually all of the structures excluding the central sanctuary, is 108, a of Angkor, it opens to the east. In the early particularly auspicious number and one 10th century, Harshavarman I erected five that correlates to the lunar calendar. statues in this temple: two of Shiva, one of Vishnu and two of Devi. Some prefer to visit in the early morn- ing, when it’s cool (and crowds are light), Phnom Bakheng ភ្នំបាខែង to climb the hill. That said, the sunset over the Western Baray is very impressive from Located around 400m south of Angkor here. Allow about two hours for the sunset Thom, the main attraction at Phnom Bak- experience. To get a good picture of Angkor Wat in the glow of the late-afternoon sun from the summit of Phnom Bakheng, you will need at least a 300mm lens, as the temple is 1.3km away. Phnom Bakheng Way Up/ Down View to Central Historical Entry Point Western Baray Sanctuary (No Public Access) D Elephant Dismount View to Elephant Angkor Wat Path
157 ANGKORIN’ FOR LUNCH Te m ple s o f A n g ko r GCA rhetaotuinSndgayATnThgeevkrooerd&aTAhroomun d Many of the tour groups buzzing around Angkor head back to Siem Reap for lunch. This is as good a reason as any to stick around the temples, taking advantage of the lack of crowds to explore some popular sites and enjoy a local lunch at one of the many stalls. Almost all of the major temples have some sort of nourishment available beyond the walls. Anyone travelling with a moto or remork-moto (tuk tuk) should ask the driver for tips on cheap eats, as these guys eat around the temples every day. They know the best spots, at the best price, and should be able to sort you out (assuming you are getting along well). The most extensive selection of restaurants is lined up opposite the entrance to Ang- kor Wat and includes several choices such as Khmer Angkor Restaurant (Map p130; mains US$3-6; h6am-6pm) and Angkor Reach Restaurant (Map p130; mains US$3-6; h6am-6pm). There is also a handy branch of Blue Pumpkin (Map p130; Angkor Cafe; dishes US$2-8; h7am-7pm) turning out sandwiches, salads and ice creams, as well as divine fruit shakes, all to take away if required. Chez Sophea (Map p130; %012 858003; meals US$10-20; h11am-10pm) offers barbecued meats and fish, accompanied by a cracking homemade salad, but prices are at the high end. There are dozens of local noodle stalls just north of Angkor Thom’s Terrace of the Leper King, which are a good spot for a quick bite to eat. Other central temples with food available include Ta Prohm, Preah Khan and Ta Keo. There is also a cluster of excellent Khmer restaurants located along the northern shore of Sra Srang. Further afield, Banteay Srei has several small restaurants, complete with ornate wood furnishings cut from Cambodia’s forests. Further north at Kbal Spean, food stalls at the bottom of the hill can cook up fried rice or a noodle soup. The excellent Borey Sovann Restaurant (meals US$3-6; h11am-6pm), located near the entrance to Kbal Spean, is a great place to wind down before or after an ascent to the River of a Thousand Lingas. There are also stop-and-dip stalls (dishes US$2 to US$4) near the entrance to Beng Mealea temple. Water and soft drinks are available throughout the temple area, and many sellers lurk outside the temples, ready to pounce with offers of cold drinks. Sometimes they ask at just the right moment; on other occasions it is the 27th time in an hour that you’ve been approached and you are ready to scream. Try not to – you’ll scare your fellow travellers and lose face with the locals. Chau Say condition thanks to extensive work under- taken by the EFEO in the 1960s. Tevoda ចៅសាយទ េវតា Just east of Angkor Thom’s Victory Gate is Chau Say Tevoda (Map p130; h7.30am- Spean Thmor ស្ាព នថ្ម 5.30pm). It was probably built during the Spean Thmor (Stone Bridge; Map p130), of which an arch and several piers remain, second quarter of the 12th century, under is 200m east of Thommanon. Jayavarman the reign of Suryavarman II, and dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu. It has been renovated VII constructed many roads with these im- mense stone bridges spanning watercours- by the Chinese to bring it up to the condition es. This is the only large bridge remaining of its twin temple, Thommanon. in the immediate vicinity of Angkor. It vividly highlights how the water level has changed course over the centuries and may Thommanon ប្រាសាទធ មម្នន្ទ offer another clue to the collapse of Ang- kor’s extensive irrigation system. Just north Just north of Chau Say Tevoda is Thom- of Spean Thmor is a large water wheel. manon (Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm). Al- There are more-spectacular examples though unique, the temple complements its of these ancient bridges elsewhere in Siem neighbour, as it was built to a similar design Reap Province, such as Spean Praptos, with around the same time and was dedicated to 19 arches, in Kompong Kdei on NH6 from Shiva and Vishnu. Thommanon is in good
158 the other monuments of Angkor, it has been Phnom Penh; and Spean Ta Ong, a 77m swallowed by the jungle, and looks very bridge with a beautiful naga, forgotten in much the way most of the monuments of the forest about 28km east of Beng Mealea. Angkor appeared when European explorers first stumbled upon them. Ta Keo តាកែវ Well, that’s the theory, but in fact the Ta Keo (Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm) is a jungle is pegged back and only the largest stark, undecorated temple that undoubtedly trees are left in place, making it manicured would have been one of the finest of Ang- rather than raw like Beng Mealea. Still, a kor’s structures, had it been finished. Built visit to Ta Prohm is a unique, other-worldly by Jayavarman V, it was dedicated to Shi- experience. There is a poetic cycle to this va and was the first Angkorian monument venerable ruin, with humanity first con- built entirely of sandstone. The summit of quering nature to rapidly create, and na- the central tower, which is surrounded by ture once again conquering humanity to four lower towers, is almost 50m high. The slowly destroy. If Angkor Wat is testimony four towers at the corners of a square and a to the genius of the ancient Khmers, Ta fifth tower in the centre is typical of many Prohm reminds us equally of the awesome Te m ple s o f A n g ko r GTAaretoKtueinondg ATnhgekroer& TAhroomun d Angkorian temple-mountains. fecundity and power of the jungle. No one is certain why work was never completed, but a likely cause may have been Built from 1186 and originally known as the death of Jayavarman V. Others contend Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta Pro- that the hard sandstone was impossible to hm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the carve and that explains the lack of decora- mother of Jayavarman VII. It is one of the tion. According to inscriptions, Ta Keo was few temples in the Angkor region where an struck by lightning during construction, inscription provides information about the which may have been a bad omen and led temple’s dependents and inhabitants. Al- to its abandonment. Allow about 30 minutes most 80,000 people were required to main- to visit Ta Keo. tain or attend at the temple, among them more than 2700 officials and 615 dancers. Ta Nei តានី Ta Prohm is a temple of towers, closed Ta Nei (Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm), 800m courtyards and narrow corridors. Many north of Ta Keo, was built by Jayavarman of the corridors are impassable, clogged VII (r 1181–1219). There is something of the with jumbled piles of delicately carved spirit of Ta Prohm here, albeit on a lesser stone blocks dislodged by the roots of long- scale, with moss and tentacle-like roots cov- decayed trees. Bas-reliefs on bulging walls ering many outer areas of this small temple. are carpeted with lichen, moss and creep- However, the number of visitors are also on ing plants, and shrubs sprout from the a lesser scale, making it very atmospheric. roofs of monumental porches. Trees, hun- It can be accessed by walking across a dreds of years old, tower overhead, their French-built dam or via a short trek from Ta leaves filtering the sunlight and casting a Nei to Ta Keo through the forest, a guaran- greenish pall over the whole scene. teed way to leave the crowds behind. Includ- ing the access walk, allow about two hours The most popular of the many strangu- to visit Ta Nei. Close by is the new Flight of lating root formations is that on the inside the Gibbon Angkor zipline experience. of the easternmost gopura (entrance pavil- ion) of the central enclosure, nicknamed Ta Prohm តាព្រហ្ម the Crocodile Tree. One of the most famous spots in Ta Prohm is the so-called ‘Tomb The ultimate Indiana Jones fantasy; Ta Pro- Raider tree’, where Angelina Jolie’s Lara hm (Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm) is cloaked in Croft picked a jasmine flower before falling dappled shadow, its crumbling towers and through the earth into…Pinewood Studios. walls locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast root systems. Undoubtedly the most It used to be possible to climb onto the atmospheric ruin at Angkor, Ta Prohm damaged galleries, but this is now prohibit- should be high on the hit list of every vis- ed, to protect both temple and visitor. Many itor. Its appeal lies in the fact that, unlike of these precariously balanced stones weigh a tonne or more and would do some serious damage if they came down. Ta Prohm is cur- rently under stabilisation and restoration by an Indian team of archaeologists work- ing with their Cambodian counterparts.
159 Ta PTrAoPhHmROM Central Hall of Pool Sanctuary Dancers Path Tomb Raider Crocodile Eastern Tree Tree Entry Tower Pool Path Giant Tree Entry Root Tower Ta Prohm is at its most impressive early in Prasat Kravan ប្រាសាទក្រវន៉ា ់ Te m ple s o f A n g ko r GAB raentotuiennadgyATKnhdgeekri oe&r&STrAharooSmurnadng the day. Allow as much as two hours to visit, especially if you want to explore the maze- Uninspiring from the outside, the interior like corridors and iconic tree roots. brick carvings concealed within its towers are the hidden treasure of Prasat Kravan Banteay Kdei & (Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm). The five brick Sra Srang បន្ាទ យក ន្ដី ងិ ស្រះស្រង់ towers, arranged in a north–south line and oriented to the east, were built for Hindu Banteay Kdei (Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm), worship in AD 921. The structure is unusu- a massive Buddhist monastery from the lat- al in that it was not constructed by royalty; ter part of the 12th century, is surrounded this accounts for its slightly distant location, by four concentric walls. Each of its four away from the centre of the capital. Prasat entrances is decorated with garudas, which hold aloft one of Jayavarman VII’s favourite THE LONG STRIDER themes: the four faces of Avalokiteshvara. East of Banteay Kdei is an earlier basin, Sra One of Vishnu’s best-loved incarnations Srang, measuring 800m by 400m, reserved was when he appeared as the dwarf for the king and his consorts. Vamana, and proceeded to reclaim the world from the evil demon king Bali. The outer wall of Banteay Kdei measures The dwarf politely asked the demon 500m by 700m. The inside of the central tow- king for a comfortable patch of ground er was never finished and much of the temple upon which to meditate, saying that the is in a ruinous state due to hasty construc- patch need only be big enough so that tion. It is considerably less busy than nearby he could easily walk across it in three Ta Prohm and this alone can justify a visit. paces. The demon agreed, only to see the dwarf swell into a mighty giant who A tiny island in the middle of Sra Srang strode across the universe in three enor- once bore a wooden temple, of which only the mous steps. From this legend, depicted stone base remains. This is a beautiful body of at Prasat Kravan, Vishnu is sometimes water from which to take in a quiet sunrise. known as the ‘long strider’. Allow about one hour to visit Banteay Kdei and take in the view over nearby Sra Srang.
160 The central sanctuary of the temple was Kravan is just south of the road between An- dedicated in AD 1191. gkor Wat and Banteay Kdei. Prasat Kravan was partially restored in A large stone stela tells us much about 1968, returning the brick carvings to their Preah Khan’s role as a centre for worship former glory. The images of Vishnu in the and learning. Originally located within the largest central tower show the eight-armed first eastern enclosure, this stela is now deity on the back wall, taking the three gi- housed safely at Angkor Conservation. The gantic steps with which he reclaimed the temple was dedicated to 515 divinities and world (p159) on the left wall; and riding a during the course of a year 18 major festivals garuda on the right wall. The northern- took place here, requiring a team of thou- most tower displays bas-reliefs of Vishnu’s sands just to maintain the place. consort, Lakshmi. Preah Khan covers a very large area, but Preah Khan ព្រះខ័នធ្ the temple itself is within a rectangular en- closing wall of around 700m by 800m. Four Te m ple s o f A n g ko r AGP reetotauihnndKghATanhngekroer& TAhroomun d The temple of Preah Khan (Sacred Sword; Map processional walkways approach the gates p130; h7.30am-5.30pm) is one of the largest of the temple, and these are bordered by complexes at Angkor, a maze of vaulted corri- another stunning depiction of the Churning dors, fine carvings and lichen-clad stonework. of the Ocean of Milk, as in the approach to It is a good counterpoint to Ta Prohm and Angkor Thom, although most of the heads generally sees slightly fewer visitors. Like Ta have disappeared. From the central sanc- Prohm it is a place of towered enclosures and tuary, four long, vaulted galleries extend in shoulder-hugging corridors. Unlike Ta Prohm, the cardinal directions. Many of the interior however, the temple of Preah Khan is in a walls of Preah Khan were once coated with reasonable state of preservation thanks to the plaster that was held in place by holes in the ongoing restoration efforts of the World Mon- stone. Today, many delicate reliefs remain, uments Fund (WMF; www.wmf.org). including rishi and apsara carvings. Preah Khan was built by Jayavarman VII and probably served as his temporary resi- The main entrance to Preah Khan is in dence while Angkor Thom was being built. the east, but most tourists enter at the west gate near the main road, walk the length of the temple to the east gate before doubling back to the central sanctuary, and exit at the Preah Khan Two-Storey Building with Columns West Gate (Tourist Entrance; 200m) D D Crossed East Gate Trees (Historic Main Entrance; 100m) Hall of Dancers
161 north gate. Approaching from the west, there It’s a safe bet that if an ‘Encore Angkor’ Te m ple s o f A n g ko r PGA reetotauihnndNgeATanhkgekrPoeora&nTAhroomun d is little clue to nature’s genius, but on the out- casino is eventually developed in Las Vegas er retaining wall of the east gate is a pair of or Macau, Preah Neak Poan will provide the trees with monstrous roots embracing, one blueprint for the swimming complex. still reaching for the sky. There is also a cu- rious, Grecian-style, two-storey structure in In the pool around the central island the temple grounds, the purpose of which there were once four statues, but only one is unknown, but it looks like an exile from remains, reconstructed from the debris by Athens. Another option is to enter from the the French archaeologists who cleared the north and exit from the east. Given its vast site. The curious figure has the body of a size, it is sensible to set aside at least 90 min- horse supported by a tangle of human legs. utes to explore this temple, even two hours. It relates to a legend that Avalokiteshvara once saved a group of shipwrecked follow- Preah Khan is a genuine fusion temple, ers from an island of ghouls by transform- the eastern entrance dedicated to Mahaya- ing into a flying horse. A beautiful replica of na Buddhism with equal-sized doors, and this statue decorates the main roundabout the other cardinal directions dedicated to at Siem Reap International Airport. Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma with successive- ly smaller doors, emphasising the unequal Water once flowed from the central pool nature of Hinduism. into the four peripheral pools via ornamental spouts, which can still be seen in the pavil- Preah Neak Poan ព្រះនាគព ន័ ្ធ ions at each axis of the pool. The spouts are in the form of an elephant’s head, a horse’s The Buddhist temple of Preah Neak Poan head, a lion’s head and a human head. The (Temple of the Intertwined Nagas; Map p130; pool was used for ritual purification rites. h7.30am-5.30pm) is a petite yet perfect tem- ple constructed by Jayavarman VII in the Preah Neak Poan was once in the cen- late 12th century. It has a large square pool tre of a huge 3km-by-900m baray serving surrounded by four smaller square pools. In Preah Khan, known as Jayatataka, which is the middle of the central pool is a circular ‘is- once again partially filled with water due to land’ encircled by the two nagas whose inter- a new opening in the dyke road. Access is twined tails give the temple its name. currently restricted to the edge of the com- plex via a wooden causeway, so a visit takes only 30 minutes. Preah Neak Poan D Car Park Elephant-Head Spout Horse-Head Naga Human-Head Spout Head Spout Horse Naga Statue Head Lion-Head Spout
Te m ple s o f A n g ko r TGAaretoStuoinmndg ATnhgekroer& TAhroomun d162 GUIDE TO THE GUIDES Countless books on Angkor have been written over the years, with more and more new titles coming out, reflecting Angkor’s rebirth as the world’s top cultural hot spot. Here are just a few of the best: A Guide to the Angkor Monuments (Maurice Glaize) The definitive 1944 guide, down- loadable for free at www.theangkorguide.com. A Passage Through Angkor (Mark Standen) One of the best photographic records of the temples. A Pilgrimage to Angkor (Pierre Loti) One of the most beautifully written books on Ang- kor, based on the author’s 1910 journey. Ancient Angkor (Claude Jacques) Written by one of the foremost scholars on Angkor, this is a very readable guide to the temples, with photos by Michael Freeman. Angkor: An Introduction to the Temples (Dawn Rooney) Probably the most popular contemporary guide. Angkor – Heart of an Asian Empire (Bruno Dagens) The story of the ‘discovery’ of Angkor, complete with lavish illustrations. Angkor: Millennium of Glory (various authors) A fascinating introduction to the histo- ry, culture, sculpture and religion of the Angkorian period. Khmer Heritage in the Old Siamese Provinces of Cambodia (Etienne Aymonier) Aymonier journeyed through Cambodia in 1901 and visited many of the major temples. The Angkor Guide (Andrew Booth) Excellent guide to the temples of Angkor with input from leading academics, beautiful overlay illustrations and profits helping to fund educa- tion in Siem Reap (see www.angkorguidebook.com). The Customs of Cambodia (Chou Ta-Kuan) The only eyewitness account of Angkor, by a Chinese emissary who spent a year at the Khmer capital in the late 13th century. Ta Som តាសោម varman II, would once have been situated on an islet in the centre of the Eastern Baray Ta Som (Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm), which reservoir, but is now very much on dry land. stands to the east of Preah Neak Poan, is one Its temple-mountain form is topped off by of the late-12th-century Buddhist temples of a quintet of towers. The elaborate brick prolific builder Jayavarman VII. The most shrines are dotted with neatly arranged impressive feature at Ta Som is the huge holes, which attached the original plaster- tree completely overwhelming the eastern work. The base of the temple is guarded at gopura, providing one of the most popular its corners by perfectly carved stone figures photo opportunities in the Angkor area. of elephants. Eastern Baray & Eastern The Eastern Mebon is flanked by earth- Mebon បារាយណ៍ ខាងក�តើ en ramps, a clue that this temple was never finished and a good visual guide to how the temples were constructed. និងមេបណុ ្យខាងក�តើ The enormous one-time reservoir known Pre Rup ប្រែរូប as the Eastern Baray was excavated by Built by Rajendravarman II, Pre Rup (Map Yasovarman I, who marked its four corners p130; h5am-7pm) is about 1km south of the with stelae. This basin, now entirely dried Eastern Mebon and is a popular spot for sun- up, was the most important of the public set. The temple consists of a pyramid-shaped works of Yasodharapura, Yasovarman I’s temple-mountain with the uppermost of the capital, and is 7km by 1.8km. It was origi- three tiers carrying five lotus towers. Pre nally fed by the Siem Reap River. Rup means ‘Turning the Body’ and refers to a traditional method of cremation in which a The Hindu temple, Eastern Mebon (Map corpse’s outline is traced in the cinders: this p130; h7.30am-5.30pm), erected by Rajendra-
163 suggests that the temple may have served as provide water for the intensive cultivation an early royal crematorium. of lands around Angkor. These enormous barays weren’t dug out, but were huge The brick sanctuaries here were once dykes built up around the edges. decorated with a plaster coating, fragments of which remain on the southwestern tow- The Western Baray is the main local swim- er; there are some amazingly detailed lin- ming pool around Siem Reap. There is a tel carvings here. Several of the outermost small beach of sorts at the western extreme, eastern towers are perilously close to col- complete with picnic huts and inner tubes lapse and are propped up by an army of for hire, which attracts plenty of Khmers at wooden supports. weekends. In the centre of the Western Baray is the ruin of the Western Mebon (Map p130; Pre Rup is one of the most popular sun- h7.30am-5.30pm) temple, where the giant set spots around Angkor as the view over bronze statue of Vishnu, now in the National the surrounding rice fields of the Eastern Museum (p42) in Phnom Penh, was found. Baray is beautiful, although some trees have The Western Mebon is accessible by boat. rather obscured it these days. It gets pretty crowded. Banteay Samré បន្ាទ យសំរែ ROLUOS TEMPLES Te m ple s o f A n g ko r RBGoaentltuieonasgyTTSehamemprrleeés& A roun d Banteay Samré (Map p130; h7.30am- The monuments of Roluos (រលួស), which 5.30pm) dates from the same period as An- gkor Wat and was built by Suryavarman served as Indravarman I’s capital, Hariha- II. The temple is in a fairly healthy state ralaya, are among the earliest large, per- of preservation due to some extensive ren- manent temples built by the Khmers and ovation work, although its isolation has mark the dawn of Khmer classical art. Be- resulted in some looting during the past fore the construction of Roluos, generally few decades. The area consists of a central only lighter (and less durable) construction temple with four wings, preceded by a hall materials such as brick were employed. and also accompanied by two libraries, the southern one remarkably well preserved. The temples can be found 13km east of Siem Reap along NH6 near the modern-day The whole ensemble is enclosed by two town of Roluos. Plan a half-day visit togeth- large concentric walls around what would er with the stilted village of Kompong Pluk have been the unique feature of an inner or allow two to three hours to explore the moat, now dry. three temples. Banteay Samré is 400m east of the East- Preah Ko HINDU TEMPLE ern Baray. A visit here can be combined with a trip to Banteay Srei or Phnom Bok. (ព្រះគោ; Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm) Preah Ko was erected by Indravarman I in the late 9th century, and was dedicated to Shiva. Preah Ko was also dedicated to his deified ancestors in AD 880. The front towers relate Western Baray & Western to male ancestors or gods, the rear towers to Mebon បារាយណ៍ ខាងលិច female ancestors or goddesses. Lions guard the steps up to the temple. The towers of នងិ មេបុណ្យខាងលចិ Preah Ko (Sacred Ox) feature three nandis The Western Baray, measuring an incredi- (sacred oxen), all of whom look like a few ble 8km by 2.3km, was excavated by hand to GOOD-CAUSE PROJECTS AROUND ROLUOS Several good-cause initiatives have sprung up around the Roluos area. Look out for Pro- lung Khmer (Map p130; www.prolungkhmer.blogspot.com) on the road between Preah Ko and Bakong. It’s a weaving centre producing stylish cotton kramas (scarves), set up as a training collaboration between Cambodia and Japan. Also here is the Lo-Yuyu (Map p130) ceramics workshop, producing traditional Angkorian-style pottery. Right opposite Preah Ko is the Khmer Group Art of Weaving (Map p130), turning out silk and cotton scarves on traditional looms. Also here is Dy Proeung Master Sculptor (Map p130; donations accepted), who has created scale replicas of Preah Ko, Bakong and Lolei, plus Angkor Wat, Preah Vihear and Banteay Srei for good measure.
Te m ple s o f A n g ko r AGP hretontuoinmndgKArTnhogemkroer& A roun d164 HIDDEN RICHES, POLITICAL HITCHES Angkor Conservation is a Ministry of Culture compound on the banks of the Siem Reap River, about 400m east of the Sofitel Phokheetra Royal Angkor Hotel. The compound houses more than 5000 statues, lingas (phallic symbols) and inscribed stelae, stored here to protect them from the wanton looting that has blighted hundreds of sites around Angkor. The finest statuary is hidden away inside Angkor Conservation’s warehouses, meticulously numbered and catalogued. Unfortunately, without the right contacts, trying to get a peek at the statues is a lost cause. Some of the statuary is on public display in the Angkor National Museum (p95) in Siem Reap, but it is only a fraction of the collection. Formerly housed at Angkor Conservation, but now going it alone in an impressive head- quarters is Apsara Authority (Authority for Protection & Management of Angkor & the Region of Siem Reap; www.autoriteapsara.org). This organisation is responsible for the research, protection and conservation of cultural heritage around Angkor, as well as urban planning in Siem Reap and tourism development in the region. Quite a mandate, quite a challenge, especially now that the government is taking such a keen interest in its work. Angkor is a money-spinner; it remains to be seen whether Apsara will put preservation before profits. It is a powerful authority that some have nicknamed the Ministry of Angkor. steaks have been sliced off over the years. Lolei HINDU TEMPLE The six prasats (stone halls), aligned in two rows and decorated with carved sandstone (លលៃ; Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm) The four and plaster reliefs, face east; the central brick towers of Lolei, an almost exact rep- tower of the front row is a great deal larger lica of the towers of Preah Ko (although in than the other towers. Preah Ko has some much worse shape), were built on an islet of the best surviving examples of plaster- in the centre of a large reservoir (now rice work seen at Angkor and is currently under fields) by Yasovarman I, the founder of the restoration by a German team. There are first city at Angkor. The sandstone carvings elaborate inscriptions in the ancient Hindu in the niches of the temples are worth a look language of Sanskrit on the doorposts of and there are Sanskrit inscriptions on the each tower. doorposts. According to one of the inscrip- tions, the four towers were dedicated by Yas- ovarman I to his mother, his father and his Bakong HINDU TEMPLE maternal grandparents on 12 July 893. (បាគង; Map p130; h7.30am-5.30pm) Bakong is the largest and most interesting of the Roluos Group. Built and dedicated to Shiva by Indravarman I, it’s a representation of Mt AROUND ANGKOR Meru, and it served as the city’s central tem- ple. The east-facing complex consists of a five-tier central pyramid of sandstone, 60m square at the base, flanked by eight towers Phnom Krom ភ្នំក្រោម of brick and sandstone, and by other minor The Hindu temple of Phnom Krom (Map sanctuaries. A number of the lower towers p130; h7.30am-5.30pm), 12km south of Siem Reap on a hill overlooking Tonlé Sap, dates are still partly covered by their original plas- from the reign of Yasovarman I in the late terwork. The complex is enclosed by three concentric walls and a moat. There are 9th or early 10th century. The name means ‘Lower Hill’ and is a reference to its geo- well-preserved statues of stone elephants graphic location in relation to its sister tem- on each corner of the first three levels of the central temple. There are 12 stupas – three ples of Phnom Bakheng and Phnom Bok. Phnom Krom remains one of the more tran- to each side – on the third tier. The sanctu- quil spots from which to view the sunset, ary on the fifth level of Bakong temple was a later addition during the reign of Suryavar- complete with an active wat. The three towers, dedicated (from north man II, in the style of Angkor Wat’s central to south) to Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma, are tower. There is an active Buddhist monas- tery here, dating back a century or more, in a ruined state. It is necessary to have an Angkor pass to visit the temple at the sum- which has recently been restored.
165 mit of Phnom Krom, so don’t come all the miss) that marks the turn. Locals are friendly way out here without one, as the guards and helpful should you find yourself lost. won’t allow you access to the summit of the hill. If coming here by moto or car, try to get Banteay Srei បន្ាទ យស្រី the driver to take you to the summit, as it is Considered by many to be the jewel in the a long, hot climb otherwise. Plan on a half- crown of Angkorian art, Banteay Srei day visit in tandem with exploring the float- (h7.30am-5.30pm) is cut from stone of a ing village of Chong Kneas (p127). pinkish hue and includes some of the finest stone carving anywhere on earth. Begun in Phnom Bok ភប្ំន ូក AD 967, it is one of the smallest sites at Ang- One of three temple-mountains built by kor, but what it lacks in size it makes up for Yasovarman I in the late 9th or early 10th in stature. The art gallery of Angkor, Ban- century, Phnom Bok (Map p130; h7.30am- teay Srei, a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, 5.30pm) is in a peaceful but remote location is wonderfully well preserved and many of and sees few visitors. The small temple is its carvings are three-dimensional. in reasonable shape, but it is the views of Banteay Srei means ‘Citadel of the Wom- Phnom Kulen to the north and the plains of en’ and it is said that it must have been built Te m ple s o f A n g ko r AGP hretontuoinmndgBAoTnkhgekroer& A roun d Angkor to the south from this 212m hill that by a woman, as the elaborate carvings are make it worth the trip. The remains of a 5m supposedly too fine for the hand of a man. linga are also visible at the opposite end of Banteay Srei is one of the few temples the hill and it’s believed there were similar around Angkor to be commissioned not by linga at Phnom Bakheng and Phnom Krom. a king but by a Brahman, who may have Phnom Bok is about 25km from Siem Reap. been a tutor to Jayavarman V. The temple There is a long, winding trail snaking up is square and has entrances at the east and the hill at Phnom Bok, which takes about 20 west, with the east approached by a cause- minutes to climb, plus a faster cement stair- way. Of interest are the lavishly decorated case, but the latter is fairly exposed. Avoid the libraries and the three central towers, which heat in the middle of the day and carry plenty are decorated with male and female divini- of water, which can be purchased locally. ties and beautiful filigree relief work. Phnom Bok is clearly visible from the Classic carvings at Banteay Srei include road to Banteay Srei. It is accessed by con- delicate women with lotus flowers in hand tinuing east on the road to Banteay Samré and traditional skirts clearly visible, as well for another 6km. It is possible to loop back as breathtaking re-creations of scenes from to Siem Reap via the temples of Roluos by the epic Ramayana adorning the library heading south instead of west on the return pediments (carved inlays above a lintel). journey, and gain some rewarding glimpses of the countryside. Unfortunately, it is not a sensible place for sunrise or sunset, as it would require a long journey in the dark. WHEN NATURE CALLS Chau Srei Vibol ចៅស្រីវបិ លុ Angkor is now blessed with some of the finest public toilets in Asia. Designed A petite hilltop temple, Chau Srei Vibol in wooden chalets and complete with (h7.30am-5.30pm) used to see few visitors amenities such as electronic flush, they as it was difficult to access, but new roads wouldn’t be out of place in a fancy hotel. have put it on the temple map at last. The The trouble is that the guardians often central sanctuary is in a ruined state but is choose not to run the generators that nicely complemented by the construction of power the toilets, meaning it is pretty a modern wat nearby. dark inside the cubicles (but, thankfully, you can flush manually, too!). Entrance Surrounding the base of the hill are later- is free if you show your Angkor pass; and ite walls, each with a small entrance hall in the toilets are found near most of the reasonable condition. To get here, turn east major temples. off the Roluos to Anlong Veng highway at a point about 8km north of NH6, or 5km south Remember, in remote areas don’t of Phnom Bok. There is a small sign (easy to stray off the path; being seen in a com- promising position is infinitely better than stepping on a land mine.
166 ANGKOR CENTRE FOR CONSERVATION OF BIODIVERSITY Conveniently located near the base of the trail to Kbal Spean is the Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity (មជ្ឈមណ្ឌ លអង្រគ ស ម្រាប់ការអភរិ ក្សជវី ចម្រុះ; ACCB; www.accb-cambodia.org; donation US$3; htours 9am & 1pm Mon-Sat), committed to rescuing, rehabilitating and reintroducing threatened wildlife to the Cambodian forests. Tours of the centre are available daily at 9am and 1pm, taking about 90 minutes. The 9am tour is the better option as animals are fed at this time and are more lively than during the heat of the day in the afternoon. Species currently under protection here include pangolin, pileated gibbon, silvered langur, slow loris, civet cat and leopard cat. There are also several large water birds, including the impressive sarus crane and the extremely rare giant ibis, the national bird of Cambodia, the only known one in captivity. Private tours of the centre are available outside core hours but must be booked in ad- vance and will cost US$25 per person or US$10 for a group of five or more. Note that you don’t need an Angkor pass to visit ACCB, only to visit Kbal Spean. Te m ple s o f A n g ko r AGK rbeatoltuinSndpgeATanhngekroer& A roun d However, the sum of the parts is no greater remork-moto drivers will want a bit of extra than the whole – almost every inch of these cash to come out here, so agree on a sum first. interior buildings is covered in decoration. Standing watch over such perfect creations There’s plenty to do in Banteay Srei dis- are the mythical guardians, all of which are trict as well as several homestays (p124) copies of originals stored in the National should you wish to stay and explore the area. Museum. It is possible to combine a visit to Banteay Srei as part of a long day trip to the River Banteay Srei was the first major temple of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean and restoration undertaken by the EFEO in Beng Mealea. A half-day itinerary might 1930 using the anastylosis method. The pro- include Banteay Srei, the Cambodia Land- ject, as evidenced today, was a major suc- mine Museum and Banteay Samre. It takes cess and soon led to other larger projects 45 minutes to explore Banteay Srei temple, such as the restoration of Bayon. Banteay but allow 90 minutes to visit the information Srei is also the first to have been given a full centre and explore the area. makeover in terms of facilities, with a large car park, a designated dining and shopping Kbal Spean ក្បាលស ្ពា ន area, clear visitor information and a state- A spectacularly carved riverbed, Kbal of-the-art exhibition on the history of the Spean (h7.30am-5.30pm) is set deep in the temple and its restoration. There is also a jungle to the northeast of Angkor. More small baray (reservoir) behind the temple commonly referred to in English as the ‘Riv- where local boat trips (US$7 per boat) are er of a Thousand Lingas’, the name actually possible through the lotus pond. means ‘bridgehead’, a reference to the natu- ral rock bridge at the site. Lingas have been When Banteay Srei was first rediscov- elaborately carved into the riverbed, and im- ered, it was assumed to be from the 13th or ages of Hindu deities are dotted about the 14th centuries, as it was thought that the area. Kbal Spean was ‘discovered’ in 1969, refined carving must have come at the end when ethnologist Jean Boulbet was shown of the Angkor period. It was later dated to the area by a hermit. AD 967, from inscriptions found at the site. It is a 2km uphill walk to the carvings, along a pretty path that winds its way up into In 1923 Frenchman André Malraux was the jungle, passing by some interesting boul- arrested in Phnom Penh for attempting to der formations along the way. Carry plenty of steal several of Banteay Srei’s major statues water up the hill, as there is none available and pieces of sculpture. Ironically, Malraux beyond the parking area. The path eventually was later appointed Minister of Culture splits to the waterfall or the river carvings. under Charles de Gaulle. There is an impressive carving of Vishnu on the upper section of the river, followed by Banteay Srei is about 32km northeast a series of carvings at the bridgehead itself, of Siem Reap and 21km northeast of Bay- on. Banteay Srei is well signposted and the road is surfaced all the way, so a trip from Siem Reap should take about 45 minutes by car or one hour by remork-moto. Moto and
167 some of which were hacked off in the past toll per foreign visitor, an ambitious fee Te m ple s o f A n g ko r GAP hretontuoinmndgKAuTnlhgenkroer& A roun d few years, but have since been replaced by compared with what you get for your money excellent replicas. This area is now roped off at Angkor, especially as very little of the toll to protect the carvings from further damage. goes towards preserving the site. The road winds its way through some spectacular jun- Following the river down, there are several gle scenery, emerging on the plateau after a more impressive carvings of Vishnu, and Shi- 20km ascent. The road eventually splits: the va with his consort Uma, and further down- left fork leads to the picnic spot, waterfalls stream hundreds of lingas appear on the and ruins of a 9th-century temple; the right riverbed. At the top of the waterfall are many fork continues over a bridge and some river- animal images, including a cow and a frog, bed carvings to the reclining Buddha. Wat and a path winds around the boulders to a Preah Ang Thom sits at the summit of the wooden staircase leading down to the base of mountain and houses the large reclining the falls. Visitors between January and June Buddha carved into the sandstone boulder will be disappointed to see very little water upon which it is built. This is the focal point here. The best time to visit is between July of a pilgrimage for Khmer people, so it is im- and December. When exploring Kbal Spean portant to take off your shoes and any head it is best to start with the river carvings and covering before climbing the stairs to the work back down to the waterfall to cool off. sanctuary. The views from the 487m peak From the car park, the visit takes about two are tremendous, as you can see right across hours including the walk and nearer to three the forested plateau. hours with a natural shower or a picnic. It’s the best part of a day trip if you include An- The waterfall is an attractive spot and gkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity was featured in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. (opposite), Banteay Srei temple (p165) and However, it could be much more beautiful the Cambodia Landmine Museum (p124). were it not for all the litter left here by fam- ilies picnicking at the weekend. Near the Kbal Spean is about 50km northeast of top of the waterfall is a jungle-clad temple Siem Reap or about 18km beyond the tem- known as Prasat Krau Romeas, dating from ple of Banteay Srei. The road is now excel- the 9th century. lent, as it forms part of the new road north to Anlong Veng and the Thai border, so it THE LOST CITY OF takes just one hour or so from town. MAHENDRAPRAVARTA Moto drivers will no doubt want a bit of Phnom Kulen hit the headlines in 2013 extra money to take you here, such as US$15 thanks to the ‘discovery’ of a lost city or so for the day, including a trip to Banteay known as Mahendrapravarta in Angko- Srei. Likewise, remork-moto drivers will rian times. Using jungle-piercing LIDAR probably up the price to US$25 or so. A sur- radar technology, the structures of a charge is also levied to come out here by car. more extensive archaeological site have Admission to Kbal Spean is included in the been unveiled beneath the jungle cano- general Angkor pass; the last entry to the py. However, it wasn’t quite as dramatic site is at 3.30pm. a discovery as initially reported, as Phnom Kulen had long been known as Phnom Kulen ភគ្នំ លូ ែន an important archaeological site. The Considered by Khmers to be the most LIDAR research confirmed the size sacred mountain in Cambodia, Phnom Ku- and scale of the ancient city, complete len (admission US$20) is a popular place of with canals and barays, in the same pilgrimage on weekends and during festi- way NASA satellite imagery had helped vals. It played a significant role in the histo- identify the size and scale of the greater ry of the Khmer empire, as it was from here Angkor hydraulic water system more in AD 802 that Jayavarman II proclaimed than a decade ago. Some new temples himself a devaraja (god-king), giving birth and features were identified beneath to the Cambodian kingdom. Attractions in- the jungle, but remain remote and inac- clude a giant reclining Buddha, hundreds of cessible due to terrain and the possibil- lingas carved in the riverbed, an impressive ity of land mines. An additional LIDAR waterfall and some remote temples. survey of the entire Kulen plateau was In 1999 a private businessman bulldozed conducted in 2015. a road up here and now charges a US$20
168 Moto drivers are likely to want about US$20 or more to bring you out here, and LAND MINE ALERT! rented cars will hit passengers with a sur- At no point during a visit to Kbal Spean charge, more than double the going rate for or Phnom Kulen should you leave Angkor; forget coming by remork-moto as well-trodden paths, as there may be land the hill climb is just too tough. With the long mines in the area. journey here, it is best to plan on spending the best part of a day exploring, although it There are plenty of other Angkorian sites can be combined with either Banteay Srei or on Phnom Kulen, including as many as 20 Beng Mealea. minor temples around the plateau, the most important of which is Prasat Rong Chen, Beng Mealea បងឹ មាលា the first pyramid or temple-mountain to be constructed in the Angkor area. Most im- A spectacular sight to behold, Beng Mealea pressive of all are the giant stone animals (admission US$5; h7.30am-5.30pm), located or guardians of the mountain, known as Sra about 68km northeast of Siem Reap, is one Damrei (Elephant Pond). These are quite of the most mysterious temples at Angkor, difficult to reach, particularly during the wetTe m ple s o f A n g ko r BAGretnotguinMndgeaATlnhegeakroer& A roun d as nature has well and truly run riot. Built to season. The few people who make it, howev- the same floorplan as Angkor Wat, exploring er, are rewarded with a life-size replica of a this titanic of temples is Angkor’s ultimate stone elephant – a full 4m long and 3m tall – Indiana Jones experience. Built in the 12th and smaller statues of lions, a frog and a century under Suryavarman II, Beng Mealea cow. These were constructed on the south- is enclosed by a massive moat measuring ern face of the mountain and from here 1.2km by 900m. there are spectacular views across the plains This Buddhist temple used to be utterly below. Getting to Sra Damrei requires taking consumed by jungle, but some of the dense a moto from Wat Preah Ang Thom for about foliage has been cut back and cleaned up in 12km on very rough trails. From here it is a recent years. Entering from the south, visi- 1km walk to the animals through the forest. tors wend their way over piles of finely chis- Don’t try to find it on your own; expect to elled sandstone blocks, through long, dark pay the moto driver about US$10 for a half chambers and between hanging vines. The day exploring this area and carry plenty of central tower has completely collapsed, but water. Other impressive sites that could be hidden away among the rubble and foliage included in an adventurous day trip around are several impressive carvings, as well as Phnom Kulen include the ancient rock carv- a well-preserved library in the northeast- ings of Poeng Tbal, an atmospheric site of ern quadrant. The temple is a special place enormous boulders, and the partially re- and it is worth taking the time to explore stored temple of Damrei Krap. it thoroughly – Apsara caretakers can show you where rock-hopping and climbing is Phnom Kulen is a huge plateau around permitted. The large wooden walkway to 50km from Siem Reap and about 15km and around the centre was originally con- from Banteay Srei. To get here on the toll structed for the filming of Jean-Jacques road, take the well-signposted right fork Annaud’s Two Brothers (2004), set in 1920s just before Banteay Srei village and go French Indochina and starring two tiger straight ahead at the crossroads. Just before cubs. The filming included 20 tigers of all the road starts to climb the mountain, there ages for continuity throughout the story. is a barrier and it is here that the US$20 There are several very basic, unmarked charge is levied. It is possible to buy a family homestays a few hundred metres cheaper entrance ticket to Phnom Kulen for behind the restaurants opposite the temple US$12 from the City Angkor Hotel (%063- entrance. The best restaurant is Romduol 760336; www.cityangkorhotel.com; Airport Rd) Angkor II (mains US$5; h7am-7pm), a sister in Siem Reap. It is only possible to go up restaurant to the Romduol Angkor near Sra Phnom Kulen before 11am and only possible Srang. Wholesome Cambodian food is on to come down after midday, to avoid vehi- offer, plus ice-cold drinks. cles meeting on the narrow road. There are It costs US$5 to visit Beng Mealea and there plenty of small restaurants and food stalls are additional small charges for transport, so located near the waterfall or in the small village near Wat Preah Ang Thom.
169 Beng Mealea Retaining Wall Library Collapsed Turtle Central Carving Tower Library Library Te m ple s o f A n g ko r KGR oehtmtoKitenergATnhgekroeri&aAnrSoiutnedsLibrary D Visitor Access To Main Entrance, Parking & Food Stalls (300m) make sure you work out in advance with the REMOTE ANGKORIAN driver or guide who is paying for these. SITES Beng Mealea is about 40km east of Bay- Koh Ker កោះក េរ on (as the crow flies) and 6.5km southeast Abandoned to the forests of the north, Koh of Phnom Kulen. By road it is about 68km Ker (admission US$10; h7.30am-5.30pm), cap- (one hour by car, longer by moto or remork- ital of the Angkorian empire from AD 928 moto) from Siem Reap. The shortest route to AD 944, is now within day-trip distance is via the junction town of Dam Dek, locat- of Siem Reap. Most visitors start at Prasat ed on NH6 about 37km from Siem Reap in Krahom where impressive stone carvings the direction of Phnom Penh. Turn north grace lintels, doorposts and slender win- immediately after the market and continue dow columns. The principal monument is on this road for 31km. The entrance to the Mayan-looking Prasat Thom, a 55m-wide, temple lies just beyond the left-hand turn 40m-high sandstone-faced pyramid whose to Koh Ker. Allow a half day to visit, includ- seven tiers offer spectacular views across ing the journey time from Siem Reap or the forest. Koh Ker is 127km northeast of combine it with Koh Ker in a long day trip Siem Reap. best undertaken by car or 4WD. Long one of Cambodia’s most remote and inaccessible temple complexes, the opening Beng Mealea is at the centre of an an- of a toll road from Dam Dek (via Beng cient Angkorian road connecting Angkor Mealea) has placed Koh Ker (pronounced Thom and Preah Khan in Preah Vihear ko-kaye) within striking distance of Siem Province, now evocatively numbered route Reap. To really appreciate the temples – the 66. A small Angkorian bridge just west of ensemble has 42 major structures in an area Chau Srei Vibol temple is the only remain- that measures 9km by 4km – it’s necessary ing trace of the old Angkorian road between to spend at least one night. Beng Mealea and Angkor Thom; between Prasat Krahom (Red Temple), the second- Preah Khan and Beng Mealea there are at largest structure at Koh Ker, is so named least 10 bridges abandoned in the forest. This is a way for extreme adventurers to get to Preah Khan temple, but do not undertake this journey lightly.
170 Koh Ker Prasat Thom Prasat Group Thneng Prasat Prasat Northern Thom Krahom Prasat Group Leung Te m ple s o f A n g ko r KRGoehtmtoKitenergATnhgekroeri&aAnrSoiutneds RAHAL Southern Group Prasat Bram for the red bricks from which it is con- thither. A naga-flanked causeway and a se- structed. Sadly, none of the carved lions for ries of sanctuaries, libraries and gates lead which this temple was once known remain, past trees and vegetation-covered ponds. though there’s still plenty to see, with stone Just west of Prasat Krahom, at the far west- archways and galleries leaning hither and ern end of a half-fallen colonnade, are the
171 remains (most of the head) of a statue of vanished during the destruction of the 1970s, Te m ple s o f A n g ko r KSR oleehmeoKptieenrgA n&gEkaotriinagn S ites Nandin. helping to preserve this complex as some- thing of an enigma. The principal monument at Koh Ker is Prasat Thom (also known as Prasat Kom- Several of the most impressive pieces peng). The staircase to the top is open to a in the National Museum (p42) in Phnom limited number of visitors and the views are Penh come from Koh Ker, including the spectacular if you can stomach the heights. huge garuda (mythical half-man, half-bird Some 40 inscriptions, dating from AD 932 creature) that greets visitors in the entrance to AD 1010, have been found here. hall and a unique carving depicting a pair of wrestling monkey-kings. South of this central group is a 1185m-by- 548m baray known as the Rahal. It is fed 4 Sleeping & Eating by the Sen River, which supplied water to irrigate the land in this arid area. Near the main temple of Prasat Thom there are a few small eateries (open during day- Some of the largest Shiva linga in Cam- light hours) run by the wives of the heritage bodia can still be seen in four temples about police stationed here. The nearby village of 1km northeast of Prasat Thom. The largest Srayong (10km) also has a few eateries. is found in Prasat Thneng, while Prasat Leung is similarly well endowed. Mom Morokod Among the many other temples that Koh Ker Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ are found around Koh Ker, Prasat Bram (%011 935114; r from US$10) About 200m is a real highlight. It consists of a collec- south of the Koh Ker toll plaza, 8km south tion of brick towers, at least two of which of Prasat Krahom, this quiet guesthouse has have been completely smothered by vora- 11 clean, spacious rooms with elaborately cious strangler figs; the probing roots cut carved wooden doors and bathrooms. through the brickwork like liquid mercury. Ponloeu Preah Koh Ker is one of the least-studied tem- ple areas from the Angkorian period. Louis Chan Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ Delaporte visited in 1880 during his exten- (%012 489058; r US$5) Located in the vil- sive investigations into Angkorian temples. lage of Srayong, this friendly, family-run It was surveyed in 1921 by the great Henri guesthouse has 14 rooms with bare walls, Parmentier for an article in the Bulletin de mosquito nets and barely enough space for l’École d’Extrême Orient, but no restoration a double bed. Toilets and showers are out work was ever undertaken here. Archaeolog- the back. ical surveys were carried out by Cambodian teams in the 1950s and 1960s. But all records 88 Getting There & Away LAND MINE ALERT! Koh Ker is 127km northeast of Siem Reap (2½ hours by car) and 72km west of Tbeng Meanchey Many of the Koh Ker temples were (1½ hours). The toll road from Dam Dek, paved mined during the war, but by 2008 most only as far as the Preah Vihear Province line, had been cleared: de-mining teams passes by Beng Mealea, 61km southwest of Koh reported removing from the area a total Ker; one-day excursions from Siem Reap often of 1382 mines and 1,447,212 pieces of visit both temple complexes. Admission fees are exploded and unexploded ordnance. collected at the toll barrier near Beng Mealea if However, considering what’s at stake, travelling from Siem Reap. it’s best to err on the side of caution. Do not stray from previously trodden paths From Siem Reap, hiring a private car for a or wander off into the forest, as there day trip to Koh Ker costs about US$80. There’s may be land mines within a few hundred no public transport to Koh Ker, although a few metres of the temples. pick-ups (10,000r) link Srayong, 10km south of Prasat Krahom, with Siem Reap. It might also be possible to take one of the share taxis that link Siem Reap with Tbeng Meanchey and get off at Srayong.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ក្រុងកោះកងុ របៀងអភរិ កស្ ខេតត្ កោះកងុ ក្រុងព្រះស ីហនុ កោះតាគៀវ កោះឫសស្ ី កោះថ្មី កោះរ៉ុង កោះរ៉ុងសនល្ ឹម ប្រជកុំ ោះស្ដេច កំពត កសថ្ ានីយភ្នបំ ូកគោ South Coastកែប AREA 27,817 SQ KM / POP 2 MILLION តាកែវ ភន្ ំបាយ៉ងក់ ោរ Why Go? anti- Cdoatmebtoodtieam’s pSloeu-htohpCpoinagstti(cឆk្រេនliខsាtsង. តT្hូងប e)bpearochviedseds rtahwe most Includes folk here, but stick around and you’ll see this region is more than its sandy bits. Koh Kong City. . . . . . . .174 The Koh Kong Conservation Corridor’s emerald-green Koh Kong Conservation vistas offer trekking potential that is only now being tapped Corridor. . . . . . . . . . . . 179 into, providing both day-hikers and intrepid types with a Sihanoukville. . . . . . . . 184 host of nature-filled adventures. Down south travellers can Ream National Park. . 200 dig into history, admiring Kampot’s preserved architecture, Koh Rong Sanloem. . . 206 then dig into plates piled with crab in Kep, before exploring Koh Sdach the surrounding countryside, patch-worked with rice fields Archipelago. . . . . . . . . 209 and studded with caves. Kampot . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Here to answer the call of the beach? The South Coast Bokor Hill Station. . . . 218 doesn’t disappoint. While brash Sihanoukville isn’t everyone’s Kep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 cup of tea, the islands offshore have something for everyone Takeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 from die-hard partiers to those seeking solitude. Pick your beach, sprawl on the sand, make friends with your hammock. Best Nature & There’s a reason many visitors decide to never leave. Adventure When to Go Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨CBET Treks (p182) 16/400 ¨¨Climbodia (p211) Sihanoukville ¨¨Ream National Park (p200) °C/°F Temp ¨¨Kep National Park (p219) ¨¨SUP Asia (p211) 40/104 Best Places to 30/86 12/300 Stay 20/68 8/200 ¨¨Rikitikitavi (p213) ¨¨Rainbow Lodge (p179) 10/50 4/100 ¨¨Mushroom Point (p192) ¨¨Green House (p214) 0/32 J F MAM J 0 ¨¨Cita Resort (p208) J ASOND Nov–Jan Prime Feb Peak season Jun–Oct Hotel hiking time. Hit finishes on the prices nosedive the Cardamoms islands. The across the coast while comfortable crowds fizzle out with bargains temperatures but the weather’s ahoy, but pack an reign. still glorious. umbrella.
THAILAND Phnom Knang Central Cardamoms KOMPONG NH5 Trapeang Protected Forest CHHNANG Udong WCKahotahemrPfaoYlreWl aaTmta(etCrCafhiaalurldoa(rV1mCeP2ah1hole3nmIcmIokRmp)MTaohnoiKnmguteranartvaCaihnnCashmh)unma(K1rKnr0ona0apo0benmugr) Ko Mak Khlong Yai Roleak Kang Ko Kut Hat Lek Cheung NH44 NH6 Koh Kong Bang Southern PHNOM TMakehkmonaguRiver Peam KrasaopCity KoPngreCakoPnVAispaerhelrlonvetgyationKPCCOraoroHtderacrmiKtdeodOomrFNsoGrest NH51 PENH Wildlife Sanctuary Tatai RiAvreerng KOMPONG NH1 Koh Kapi Bridge SPEU Kompong Speu TBoantlié KANDAL NH48 NH4 Koh Koh Kong Trapaeng Island Rung River Kirirom Alatang Preak Khsach Chi Phat National NH46 NH2 Phnom NH21 HeadquaPrtaerrks NH48 Park NH3 Chisor Andoung Tuek Kirovong III Dam BTaosnsaléc Ta Nhi Ta Op Sre Ambel (EClheupohranPthMnoomunDtaaimnsrei) Plauv Bombek Botum Sakor Angk Tasaom National Park Sre Ambel KAMPOT SKamaanmor Takeo Koh Sdach Ta Nun Thmor NH4 Bokor Chhuk Angkor Borei Koh SamiYt oPpooi n Sor National Phnom Da Gulf of Park TAKEO Kompong Som PREAH KohKSoRahonn(RlBgooaeTmnKmuKogbcShoohiohhPaIRsnrlueoaksnusBdkBTeOv)iereieatlanrlcecehgThsaStKKuioneNghvHHN4KC1RaaPRbauteaaseiaocrlamkanmCVadThelehhasmlaRyAoKPeSKrmhnoPITuohHhprhheuQAToyTlSuhmNeeomkhOcReCUIiaKshBSKplthoeaKaiopkndtouiodsKNohrnaKaTHmtooiiPolhnplansoPraaPklotyhsKnVAoRoemOau NKNNHHeG33p3TKuPEkKTrXPerHoMakamacXeChpiaTahTosieaanTnkngc1i1hP3eBhaPanhTyonaomopPnmeNhgVcHnh2oImEKDirTeivnToNinngh 0 Gulf of Thailand Chau 0 Doc 50 km Bien 30 miles AM South Coast Highlights 1 De-stressing upon the down for the night in a friendly town in Kampot (p210), then on the meandering sands of (p223), then working off the photogenic white sands of homestay at Cambodia’s most heading out for river and cave Sihanoukville’s mellow Otres calories in Kep National Park. Saracen Bay on Koh Rong successful ecotourism project adventures in the surrounding Beach (p186). 6 Tuning out on Koh Ta Kiev Sanloem (p202). in Chi Phat (p181). countryside. 5 Feasting on the famous (p201) where hammock-time 2 Exploring the forest with 3 Ambling the alleys of 4 Topping-up your tan by day Kampot pepper crab of Kep is a way of life. local guides and bedding Cambodia’s best-preserved old and downing cocktails by night So u th C oas t S o u th C o ast H i g h l i g hts 173
174 dominated by smuggling, prostitution and gambling. Although remnants of its less sa- KOH KONG PROVINCE lubrious past still cling on, today this low- slung town is striding towards respectability Cambodia’s vast and sparsely populated far as ecotourists, aiming to explore the Car- damoms, shoo away the sleaze. The dusty southwestern province of Koh Kong (ខេត្ត sprawl of streets sits on the banks of the Koh កោះកងុ ) shelters some of the country’s most Poi River which spills into the Gulf of Thai- land a few kilometres south of the centre. remarkable and important natural sites. Until relatively recently the entire prov- 1 Sights & Activities ince was effectively cut off from the rest Koh Kong’s main appeal is as a launch- of the country due to dreadful roads. The ing pad for adventures in and around the provincial capital of Koh Kong (Krong Koh Cardamom Mountains and the Koh Kong Kong) was easier to visit from Thailand, the Conservation Corridor, but there are a few Thai baht was king and the vast majority of diversions around town as well. If you want foreigners in town were the wrong type of a dip, the pool at Oasis Bungalow Resort tourists on visa runs from Pattaya. That has (p176) is open to non-guests (children/ all changed as National Hwy 48 (NH48) is adults US$2/4). Sun-worshippers will dis- now paved and bus connections to Phnom cover additional beaches further north on Penh and Sihanoukville are frequent. the Gulf of Thailand near the Thai border. The best base for exploring the province’sSo u th C oas t SK oi ghhtKso n&gAPCcrittoiyvviitnice se Koh Yor Beach BEACH untamed jungle and coastline, spread out along the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor, (ឆ្រនេ កោះយ ៉ នៅបាកខ់ ង្ល ) This long, wind- is the riverine town of Koh Kong, 8km from swept beach is on the far (western) side of the Thai border. From here, motorboats can whisk you to rushing waterfalls, secluded islands, sandy coves and Venice-like fishing villages on stilts. the peninsula that forms the west bank of the Koh Poi River opposite Koh Kong. Al- Koh Kong City ក្ងុរ កោះកងុ though it’s not the world’s prettiest beach, it offers good shell-collecting and you’re % 035 / POP 36,053 nearly guaranteed to have it to yourself. To Sleepy Koh Kong was once Cambodia’s Wild West with its isolated frontier economy Koh Kong City e#00 02.010mmiles Koh Kong City AB Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Oasis Bungalow 1 Ritthy's Koh Kong Eco Adventure St 3 Resort (1km) Tours ...................................................A2 6Wat Neang Kok (2.5km); D 16 ˜#St›#1213 1 ÿ Sleeping Thmorda Garden Resort (3km); Sen Sok 2 99 Guesthouse......................................B2 Koh Yor Beach (7.5km); St 13 3 Asian Hotel.............................................A2 1 Jungle Cross (8km); 4 Koh Kong Bay Hotel .............................A2 Thailand Border (8km) 5 Koh Kong City Hotel .............................A2 D î#Clinic 6 PS Guesthouse......................................A3 ò# ì#Acleda St 5 ú Eating 662 Koh Poi River 7 Baan Peakmai .......................................A2 Bank 8 Café Laurent..........................................A2 D4 9 Psar Leu .................................................A3 ÿ# #ú 7 Tatai Waterfall 5 ÿ# ÿ# 3 St 6 17 Turnoff (15km); 10 Seta Ice Cream .....................................A2 8 #ú Tatai Bridge (18km) û Drinking & Nightlife ›# 2 11 Fat Sam's ...............................................B2 Canadia # 1 St 7 12 Paddy's Bamboo Pub...........................B3 66Bank #ú10 ÿ# 2 ï Transport 13 Bus Station ............................................ B1 DBoocaktf# #ì St 8 ›#15 14 Olympic Transport................................B3 St 9 ›# #û11 Phnom Penh Sorya...................... (see 11) St 2 15 Rith Mony...............................................B2 St 1 #ú9 14 16 Taxi Station............................................ B1 17 Virak Buntham ......................................B2 6 ÿ# #û12 33 AB
175 get there, cross the toll bridge that spans the and jungle treks in the Koh Kong Conser- river north of the town centre and look for a vation Corridor. Their overnight jungle left turn about 1.5km beyond the tollbooth. trekking and camping excursions (one/two The beach is about 6km from the turnoff. nights per person US$35/70) get great re- views from travellers. Wat Neang Kok BUDDHIST TEMPLE (វត្នត ាងកកុ ) A rocky promontory on the right Neptune Adventure ECOTOUR (western) bank of the Koh Poi River is deco- (%088 777 0576; neptuneadventure-cambodia. rated with life-size statues demonstrating the com; Tatai River) S This well-established eco violent punishments that await sinners in the tourism operator is based at Neptune River Buddhist hell. This graphic tableau belongs Bungalows (p179) on the Tatai River and to Wat Neang Kok, a Buddhist temple. To get offers highly recommended jungle treks as there, cross the bridge, turn right 600m past well as multi-activity adventures combining the tollbooth (motos cost 1400r), and proceed trekking, kayaking and boating. Day tours 150m beyond the temple to the statues. range from US$10 to US$25 per person. T Tours Jungle Cross ADVENTURE TOUR Boat tours are an excellent way to view Koh (%015 601633; www.junglecross.com; dirt-bike Kong’s many coastal attractions. English- rental per day US$25; h9am-6pm) Specialises speaking Teur (%016 278668) hangs around in dirt-bike and 4WD safaris deep into the the boat dock (cnr St 1 & St 9) and can help Cardamoms, with riverside camping in ham- you hire six-passenger (40-horsepower) mocks. Also runs trekking tours to more re- and three-passenger (15-horsepower) out- mote bits of the Cardamoms, with transport boards (speedboats). Destinations include by 4WD to the launch point. Based out of Koh Kong Island western beaches (big/small Koh Kong Safari World near the Thai border. So u th C oas t TKo uhrKso n g CP ri toyv i nc e boats US$80/50), around Koh Kong Island (big/small boats US$120/90) and Peam 4 Sleeping Krasaop Wildlife Sanctuary (big/small boats US$40/30). Koh Kong is a popular holiday destination for Khmer families; hotels fill up and raise The most popular tour is to Koh Kong their rates during Cambodian holidays. If Island (full day per person incl lunch & snorkelling staying in town doesn’t appeal, check out the equipment US$25, overnight US$55). Trips take Tatai River (18km east), with its handful of in some of the mangroves of Peam Krasaop fabulous eco-accommodation options. Wildlife Sanctuary, where there’s a good chance of spotting Irrawaddy dolphins ear- oKoh Kong City Hotel HOTEL $ ly in the morning. Overnight trips involve (%035-936777; http://kkcthotel.netkhmer.com; beach camping or a homestay on the island. St 1; r US$15-20; aiW) Ludicrous value for Note that tours don’t take place in the rainy what you get; squeaky-clean rooms include season (July to October) because of strong a huge bathroom, two double beds, 50 TV onshore (southwesterly) breezes. However, channels, a full complement of toiletries, private boat trips to Peam Krasaop are pos- free water and – in the US$20 rooms – glo- sible year-round. rious river views. Friendly staff top off the experience. As tours become more popular, garbage is beginning to pile up on some of the is- Asian Hotel HOTEL $ land’s western beaches, which is mainly the (%035-936667; www.asiankohkong.com; St 1; r fault of irresponsible boatmen and tour op- US$15-20; ai) While it may lack the river erators. Choose a reputable tour company. views of rival hotels across the road, the Asian Most operators offer overland trips in the makes up for it with spacious, clean and com- Cardamom Mountains as well as boat tours. fortable rooms with a touch of old-time class. Bag a front (roadside) room for a balcony. Ritthy’s Koh Kong Eco Adventure Tours ADVENTURE TOUR 99 Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%012 707719; www.kohkongecoadventure.com; (%035-936799; [email protected]; St St 1; h8am-9pm) A one-stop shop for all 6; s/d with fan US$8/10, with air-con US$13/15; your tour needs in Koh Kong, this is the aW) Managed by friendly Piseth, 99 is a longest-running ecotourism operator in solid budget choice with a range of bright town. Ritthy’s excursions include excellent and neat as a pin, decent-sized rooms in a Koh Kong Island boat tours, birdwatching, central, yet quiet, location.
176 PS Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ Crab Shack SEAFOOD $ (%097 729 1600; St 1; r with fan/air-con US$7/12; (Koh Yor Beach; mains US$4-8; h11am-9pm) A aW) The ultra simple rooms at this river- family-run place over the bridge on Koh front place are spick and span, and decked Yor, it’s known for perfect sunsets and heap- out in a rainbow of colours. ing portions of fried crab with pepper (on request). oOasis Bungalow Resort BUNGALOW $$ (%092 228342; http://oasisresort.netkhmer.com; oCafé Laurent d/tr US$30/35; aWs) Surrounded by lush INTERNATIONAL $$ (St 1; mains US$4-15; h10.30am-11pm Wed-Mon; forest, 2km north of Koh Kong centre, Oa- W) This chic waterfront cafe and restaurant sis really lives up to its name. Five large, airy offers atmospheric dining in over-water pa- bungalows set around a gorgeous infinity vilions where you can sit back and watch pool with views of the Cardamoms provide a the sunset while feasting on refined West- tranquil base in which to chill out and reset ern and Khmer cuisine. As well as French- your travel batteries. To get here, follow the accented steaks and a decent pasta menu, blue signs from Acleda Bank. During the De- there’s a huge range of fresh seafood and cember to January high season bungalows Asian classics, all served with fine-dining are US$5 extra. The no-sex-tourist policy panache. here is a refreshing approach for Koh Kong. Thmorda Crab House SEAFOOD $$ (%035-690 1252; Neang Kok; mains US$4-20; Koh Kong Bay Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ h7am-10pm) For dining with a different (%035-936367; www.kohkongbay.com; St 1; r incl breakfast US$32-45, ste from US$60; aWs) perspective, head across the bridge to this Koh Kong’s first attempt at a boutique hotel attractive restaurant set on stilts over the So u th C oas t EKaothi nKgo n&gDPCrriitnoykviinngc e has wood-floored rooms designed in mini- river. Part of the Thmorda Garden Riverside malist European style with balconies and Resort, the restaurant includes some private rain showers in the bathrooms, but at this pavilions. Crab is a speciality, plus there’s a price we’d have expected someone to vac- good range of Thai dishes available. uum the hallways. If there was a tad more attention to detail it could be a winner. Seta Ice Cream INTERNATIONAL $$ (St 1; mains US$4-10; h7am-10pm) Seta covers most bases offering everything from pizza to Thmorda Garden Riverside Resort RESORT $$ curry and baguettes to noodles, with break- (%035-690 0324; www.thmordagarden.com; Neang fast options (US$1.50 to $4.50) thrown in Kok; standard/deluxe r US$35/60; aW) The stand- for good measure. Its road-front terrace also ard rooms may be only slightly bigger than a doubles up as a popular drinking spot in the postage stamp but you can’t beat the location. evening. Smack on the peninsula overlooking the Koh Poi River (just across the toll bridge from Fat Sam’s BAR Koh Kong), this small resort is a peaceful choice for travellers looking to fully unwind. (off St 3; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 4-10pm Sun; W) Kayaks are free and bikes can be hired. This informal, Welsh-run bar-restaurant has a decent selection of beers, spirits and 5 Eating & Drinking wines and an impressive food menu that runs the full gamut from fish-and-chips and The best cheap food stalls are in the south- chilli con carne to authentic Khmer and east corner of Psar Leu (Market; St 3; h8am- Thai favourites. Useful travel information 11pm); fruit stalls can be found near the is dished out for free, plus there are motor- southwest corner. Riverfront food carts sell bikes available for rent. noodles and cans of beer for a few thousand riel, doubling up as sunset drinking spots. Paddy’s Bamboo Pub BAR Baan Peakmai ASIAN $ (St 7; mains US$2-4) Paddy’s angles for the backpacker market with US$1 beers, a pool (St 1; mains 7000-15,000r; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm; table and affordable Khmer food, plus some v) Sure, you’d find more ambience in a pa- per bag but don’t be put off by the plain-Jane home-grown comfort flavours. If you’re down to your last dollars, they also have ex- decor. Baan Peakmai does a fine line in pan- tremely basic rooms out the back (singles/ Asian dishes with large portions and on-the- ball service. The menu romps through Thai, doubles US$4.50/5.50). Paddy is also a good source of travel info and can arrange boat Chinese and Khmer favourites and there are tours and other excursions. plenty of vegetarian options.
177 88 Information for the three-minute moto/remork ride into the So u th C oas t KInofho rK omantgi oCP rintoyv i nc e centre. Pick-ups are at the company offices in MEDICAL SERVICES town. Bus companies usually offer free transfer In a medical emergency, evacuation to Thailand by remork from your guesthouse to their respec- via the Cham Yeam-Hat Lek border crossing is tive offices. possible 24 hours a day. In Thailand there’s a ¨¨To Phnom Penh (US$7, six hours), Virak hospital in Trat, 92km from the border. Buntham (% 089 998760; St 3) and Phnom Sen Sok Clinic (% 012 555060; kkpao@ Penh Sorya (% 077 563447; St 3) each have a camintel.com; St 3; h24hr) Has doctors who 7.45am departure; Olympic Transport (% 011 speak English and French. 363678; St 3) buses leave at 7.45am and 11.45am; and Rith Mony (% 012 640344; St 3) MONEY has services at 7.30am and 11.30am. Thai baht are widely used so there’s no urgent ¨¨For Sihanoukville (five hours), Virak Buntham need to change baht into dollars or riel. To do so, (US$8, 8am), Olympic Transport (US$10, use one of the many mobile-phone shops around 11.45am) and Rith Mony (US$8, 2pm) all have Psar Leu. one bus daily. Acleda Bank (St 3; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to ¨¨Note that Virak Buntham and Rith Mony claim 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) to offer night buses from Siem Reap to Koh Canadia Bank (St 1; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to Kong, but these arrive in Sihanoukville early 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) morning and require a second five-hour bus to Koh Kong, leaving many a backpacker justifia- TOURIST INFORMATION bly annoyed. Ritthy’s Koh Kong Eco Adventure Tours (p175) ¨¨The same two companies offer midday trips and guesthouses are the best places to get the to Bangkok with a bus change at the border local low-down. You can also look for the free (US$20, eight hours). There are also trips to Koh Kong Visitors Guide (www.koh-kong.com), Koh Chang in Thailand (US$14 including ferry) which is mostly advertisements. with a change of bus at the border, plus a local ferry to the island. 88 Getting There & Away TAXI Koh Kong is on NH48, 220km northwest of Siha- From the taxi lot (St 12) next to the bus station, noukville and 290km west of Phnom Penh. It’s shared taxis head to Phnom Penh (US$11, five linked to the Thai border by a paved toll road that hours) and occasionally to Sihanoukville (US$10, begins on the other side of the 1.9km bridge over four hours) and Andoung Tuek (US$5, two the Koh Poi River. hours). As with anywhere, the best chance for a ride is in the morning. Guesthouses can set you BUS up with a private taxi to Phnom Penh (US$55) or Most buses drop passengers at Koh Kong’s Sihanoukville (US$50). unpaved bus station (St 12), on the northeast edge of town, where motos (motorbike taxis) and Hiring a taxi to or from the Thai border costs remork-motos (tuk tuks) await, eager to over- about US$10 (plus 6000r for the toll), while a charge tourists. Don’t pay more than US$1/2 moto/remork will cost about US$3/8. GETTING TO THAILAND: KOH KONG CITY TO TRAT Getting to the border The Cham Yeam–Hat Lek border crossing (h8am-10pm), be- tween Cambodia’s Koh Kong and Trat in Thailand, links the beaches of Cambodia and Thailand. Leaving Cambodia, take a taxi (US$10 plus toll), remork (US$8) or moto (US$3) from Koh Kong across the toll bridge to the border. Once in Thailand, catch a minibus to Trat, from where there are regular buses to Bangkok. At the border Departing Cambodia via the Hat Lek border is pretty straightforward. Coming in the other direction and arriving in Cambodia, be aware that the Cham Yeam border is notorious for visa overcharging; although these days you’ll usually pay 1300B, which is basically the same price as buying an e-visa in advance. Moving on From the Hat Lek border, take a minibus straight to Trat (120B). From here there are regular buses to Bangkok (254B, six hours) heading to the Thai capital’s Eastern or North and Northeastern bus stations. Buses depart hourly from 6am until 11.30pm. Anyone heading to the nearby island of Koh Chang can arrange onward transport in Trat. Coming into Cambodia, note that you’ll get a better deal on all transport from the bor- der to Koh Kong if you pay in dollars not baht.
178 8 Getting Around 88 Getting There & Away BICYCLE Koh Kong Island lies about 25km south of Koh Ritthy’s Koh Kong Eco Adventure Tours (p175) Kong City. The most practical way to get there is rents out bicycles for half (US$1) and full days on a boat tour from Koh Kong City. (US$2). Koh Kong Island Resort offers daily transport CAR, MOTO & MOTORBIKE on its boat for US$15 per person, departing Koh Short moto rides within the centre are 2000r; Kong at 8.30am and returning to Koh Kong from remorks are double that, but overcharging is Koh Kong Island at 3pm. This must be booked common. beforehand. Motorbike hire is available from most guest- Peam Krasaop Mangrove houses, Ritthy’s Koh Kong Eco Adventure Tours Sanctuary (p175) and Jungle Cross (p175). ជម្រកសត្ពវ ្រៃបងឹ ក្រយកា៉ នៅពាមក្រសោប Around Koh Kong City Anchored to alluvial islands – some no larger than a house – the magnificant mangroves Koh Kong Island កោះកងុ of the 260-sq-km Peam Krasaop Mangrove Sanctuary (admission 5000r; h6.30am-6pm) So u th C oas t KGA ore othtuKinnodgn gKAorPhoruoKnovdinngc eC i t y Cambodia’s largest island towers over seas protect the coast from erosion, serve as a so crystal clear you can make out individ- vital breeding and feeding ground for fish, ual grains of sand in a couple of metres of shrimp and shellfish, and are home to myr- water. The island has seven beaches, all of iad birds. them along the Western coast. Unfortunate- ly they’re becoming increasingly polluted as To get a feel for the delicate mangrove irresponsible tour operators fail to properly ecosystem, explore the 600m-long concrete dispose of waste. Hopefully the situation can mangrove walk, which wends its way above be reversed, as the island is a real gem. the briny waters to a 15m observation tow- er. The entrance is 5.5km southeast of Koh Several of the beaches – lined with coco- Kong. A moto/remork costs US$5/10 return. nut palms and lush vegetation, just as you’d expect in a tropical paradise – are at the Although the main raised walkway is mouths of little streams. At the sixth beach made from concrete blocks, there are var- from the north, a narrow channel leads to a ious wooden paths that shoot off from the hidden lagoon. main trail. Travellers with little ones in tow should keep a vigilant eye on children as the On Koh Kong Island’s eastern side, half a walkway (particularly on the wooden sec- dozen forested hills – the highest towering tions) is not maintained well. If you’re lucky, 407m above the sea – drop steeply to the you’ll come across cavorting monkeys with a mangrove-lined coast. The Venice-like fish- fondness for fizzy drinks. ing village of Alatang, with its stilted houses and colourful fishing boats, is on the south- Unfortunately, a new resort has built 30 east coast facing the northwest corner of Bo- stilted bungalows amid the mangroves near tum Sakor National Park. the sanctuary entrance. The resort is a shrine to wood-crete that falls well short of blend- It’s forbidden to explore the thickly ing with the beauty of the surroundings. forested interior, but there are now two bungalow resorts on the island. Overnight You can avoid confronting this eyesore by camping is available with a guide. hiring a motorboat to take you through the sanctuary. Wooden boats are available for 4 Sleeping hire from the dock at the sanctuary entrance (short/long tours US$5/10), but a better plan Koh Kong Island Resort RESORT $$ is to head into the park’s interior on a boat (%035-936371; www.kohkongisland.net; Koh tour out of Koh Kong. Kong Island; bungalows d US$25-50, f US$70) The first accommodation to open on Koh Kong On a boat tour you’ll have a chance to Island, the rustic wooden bungalows here visit fishing hamlets where residents use have solar-powered electricity, fans and spindly traps to catch fish, which they keep dinky porches out front, perfect for a spot of alive till market time in partly submerged lazing. Standard bungalows are pretty poky nets attached to floating wooden frames. so it’s worth splashing out on the deluxe op- Further out, on some of the more remote tion (US$50). mangrove islands, you pass isolated little beaches where you can land and lounge alongside fearless hermit crabs.
179 Much of Peam Krasaop is on the prestig- org), along with teams of armed enforce- ious Ramsar List of Wetlands of Internation- ment rangers, are working to help protect al Importance (www.ramsar.org). The area, the area’s 16 distinct ecosystems from log- which is part of the Koh Kong Conservation gers and poachers. Ecotourism, too, can play Corridor, is all the more valuable from an a role in providing local people with sustain- ecological standpoint because similar for- able alternatives to logging and poaching. ests in Thailand have been trashed by short- sighted development. Today Peam Krasaop’s Tatai River & Waterfall habitats and fisheries are threatened by the large-scale dredging of sand for Singapore. ស្ងឹទ តាតៃ នងិ ទកឹ ធ្លា ក់តាតៃ Koh Kong The Phun Daung (Tatai) Bridge, about 18km Conservation Corridor east of Koh Kong on the NH48, is your gate- រប�ៀងអភិរក្សខ េតក្ត ោះកងុ way to jungle living. The main sight here Stretching along both sides of NH48 from Koh is the Tatai Waterfall, a thundering set of Kong to the Gulf of Kompong Som (the bay rapids during the wet season, plunging over northwest of Sihanoukville), the Koh Kong a 4m rock shelf. Water levels drop in the dry Conservation Corridor encompasses many of season, but you can swim year-round in re- Cambodia’s most outstanding natural sites, freshing pools around the waterfall. including the southern reaches of the fabled Cardamom Mountains, an area of breathtak- However, the real attraction of the Tatai ing beauty and astonishing biodiversity. River is its isolated setting with dense forest So u th C oas t SK ol eheKpoi nngg PCroonvsi ne cr veat i o n C o rr i d o r The Cardamoms cover 20,000 sq km of plunging down to the riverbank. Spending a southwestern Cambodia. The remote peaks – few days here, either exploring the lush and up to 1800m high – and 18 major waterways tranquil natural environment or swinging in a hammock while contemplating river-life, is a pure get-away-from-it-all experience that offers extra kudos for sustainability. are home to at least 59 globally threatened 4 Sleeping animal species including tigers, Asian ele- phants, bears, Siamese crocodiles, pangolins Most places have their own restaurants and and eight species of tortoise and turtle. offer a range of trekking, boating and kay- The second-largest virgin rainforest on aking adventures on and around the river. mainland Southeast Asia, the Cardamoms oRainbow Lodge ECOLODGE $$ are one of only two sites in the region (%012 160 2585; www.rainbowlodgecambodia.com; where unbroken forests still connect moun- Tatai River; s/d/f incl all meals US$75/100/140; W) tain summits with the sea (the other is in S A slice of jungle-chic, Rainbow Lodge Myanmar). Some highland areas receive up proves being sustainable doesn’t mean you to 5m of rain a year. Conservationists hope have to sacrifice creature comforts. Powered the Cardamoms will someday be declared a by solar panels and bio-fuel, the bungalows Unesco World Heritage Forest. here are set back from the river. They are While forests and coastlines elsewhere in reached by elevated walkways hugged by Southeast Asia were being ravaged by devel- foliage and centred around a sleek open-air opers and well-connected logging companies, lounge with an impressive bar. Access is by the Cardamom Mountains and the adjacent boat; free transfers to/from Tatai Bridge. mangrove forests were protected from the Activities include kayaking, day treks, worst ecological outrages by their sheer re- river cruises, local village visits and over- moteness and, at least in part, by Cambodia’s night camping, while a riverfront spa pa- long civil war. As a result, much of the area is vilion provides pampering massages. still in pretty good shape, ecologically speak- ing, so the potential for ecotourism is huge – Neptune River Bungalows ECOLODGE $$ (% 0887770576; http://neptuneadventure-cambodia. akin, some say, to that of Kenya’s game com; Tatai River; bungalow incl breakfast US$35-50) reserves or Costa Rica’s national parks. The next few years will be critical in S Want to play Robinson Crusoe? You’re in the right place. Thomas – ecotour operator determining the future of the Cardamom of long-running Neptune Adventure (p175) – Mountains. NGOs such as Conservation In- ternational (www.conservation.org), Fauna has created a jungle getaway with bags of rustic charm. The four stilted bungalows, & Flora International (www.fauna-flora.org) made of all natural materials, are set amid and Wildlife Alliance (www.wildlifealliance.
180 based ecotourism (CBET) project (%097 fruit trees. Meals (US$3 to $7), using produce 752 9960; [email protected]) was also from their gardens, are usually eaten commu- set to launch here. The nearby Areng Val- nally, which adds to the homely vibe. Excel- ley, some of whose inhabitants belong to lent jungle trekking and boat trips are easily the Khmer Daeum minority community, is arranged and there’s free use of kayaks. home to Asian elephants and the dragonfish Transfers to/from Tatai Bridge are included. (Asian arowana), which is almost extinct in the wild. It also has the world’s second- Four Rivers Floating Lodge RESORT $$$ largest population of critically endangered (%097 758 9676; www.ecolodges.asia; Tatai Riv- wild Siamese crocodiles, toothy critters up to er; d incl breakfast US$259; W) The 12 canvas 3.5m long, which don’t eat people, preferring tent-villas here float on a pontoon situated fish, snakes, frogs and small mammals. on a branch of the Tatai River estuary 6km downriver from Tatai Bridge. Inside, the The valley and its fauna are under threat lavish use of wicker and richly dark wood from a proposed huge Chinese-built hy- provides a colonial-cool ambience, topped droelectric dam that, if constructed, will off by the most sumptuous bathrooms you’ll displace 1500 people, flood 90 to 120 sq see under canvas anywhere. Boat transfers km of land and inundate an important to/from Tatai Bridge are included. elephant-migration route. Government pro- ponents of the dam counter that this and sev- So u th C oas t KGoe thtKi nogn gT hPCeroronevsi&enrcAvweaatyi o n C o rr i d o r 88 Getting There & Away eral additional Chinese-funded dams being built in Cambodia will provide much needed Access to Tatai Waterfall is by car or motorbike. electricity to a power-starved country. The clearly marked turnoff is on the NH48 about 15km southeast of Koh Kong, or 2.8km From December to May the truly intrepid northwest of the Tatai Bridge. From the highway can take an eight-day trek from Thma Bang it’s about 2km to the falls along a rough access north to Kravanh, or from Chamnar (linked road. There’s a stream crossing about halfway – to Thma Bang by road) over the mountains at the height of the wet season you may have to to Kravanh, a five- or six-day affair. cross it on foot and walk the last kilometre. An easier, year-round option is the From Koh Kong, a half-day moto excursion to three- or four-day hike from Chumnoab, Tatai Waterfall costs US$10 return (remork-moto east of Thma Bang, eastwards to Roleak US$15), or less to go one way to the bridge. If Kang Cheung, linked to Kompong Speu by travelling by public transport from Phnom Penh road. Between the two is Knong Krapeur to one of the resorts, ask the driver to let you off (1000m), set amid high-elevation grassland at the bridge. and pines. Inhabited five centuries ago, the area is known for its giant ceramic funeral Central Cardamoms Protected jars, still filled with human bones. Forest ឧទ្យានជ ាតជិ ួរភកំន្ ្រវាញ There’s no reservation system in Thma The Central Cardamoms Protected Forest Bang; just show up and arrange trekking (CCPF; 4013 sq km) encompasses three of and accommodation on the spot. Southeast Asia’s most threatened ecosys- tems: lowland evergreen forests, riparian 8 Getting There & Away forests and wetlands. The southern reaches of the Central Cardamoms The rangers and military police who Protected Forest are easiest to reach from the protect this vast area from illegal hunting south. The road to Thma Bang from NH48 has and logging, with the help of Conservation been widened and it now takes only about an International, are based at six strategically hour to drive from Koh Kong. Turn off NH48 sited ranger stations, including one in Thma about 10km east of the Tatai River bridge at the Bang. Here you’ll find two basic guesthous- Veal II (Veal Pii) ranger checkpoint. es (per person US$5) (one run by the rangers, the other by the local community) both with Thma Bang is linked to Chi Phat by a difficult a couple of rooms and a dorm, and with elec- trail that can be handled by motorbike, but just tricity from 6pm to 9pm. Meals can be pre- barely and only in the dry season. We don’t pared for US$2. Bring warm clothes, as the recommend it. Only attempt it in a large group temperature can drop as low as 10°C. of experienced bikers to help navigate bikes over the more difficult river crossings and dried out Mostly covered with dense rainforest, waterfall beds. Thma Bang is perfect for birdwatching or hik- ing to a waterfall with a local guide (rangers An improved road (though still much easier to can help you find one). A new community- navigate in the dry season), goes north from Koh Kong through the Cardamoms to Pursat, Pailin
181 and Battambang, passing by remote mountain ged road around the park’s east coast via the So u th C oas t AK octhi vKiotni egsPC&rooTnovsiuenrcsveat i o n C o rr i d o r towns such as Veal Veng, Ou Som (where there’s scenic fishing village of Thmor Sor, which is a fledgling ecotourism project) and Promouy largely built on stilts over the alluvial bay, (the main town in the Phnom Samkos Wildlife stretching almost 1km out to sea. Sanctuary). Near Koh Kong, the turnoff is on the old road to Phnom Penh past the airport, a few Chi Phat សហគមន៍ទេសចរណ៍ ជីផាត់ hundred metres beyond the army base. In an effort to protect the southern Carda- Going south, share taxis link Pursat with Pro- mom Mountains from poaching, logging mouy, Ou Som and Koh Kong during the dry sea- and land grabbing, Wildlife Alliance (www. son. In the wet season, it may still be possible to wildlifealliance.org) launched a multiphase hire a moto for the long trip from Promouy to Koh project to transform the rainforest into a Kong, depending on local road conditions and sea- source of jobs and income for local peo- sonal rainfall. Heading north from Koh Kong, share ple. The Southern Cardamoms Protect- taxis are rare on this route. The CCPF’s northern ed Forest (1443 sq km), whose southern sections are accessible from Pursat (p232). boundary is NH48 between Koh Kong and Andoung Tuek, is becoming a world-class Botum Sakor National Park ecotourism destination. រមណី យដ្ាឋ នឧទ្យានជាតបិ ុទមុ សាគរ Once notorious for its loggers and poach- Occupying almost the entirety of the 35km- ers, the river village of Chi Phat (popula- wide peninsula northwest across the Gulf tion 630 families) is now home to Wildlife of Kompong Som from Sihanoukville, this Alliance’s pioneering community-based 1834-sq-km national park, encircled by eco-tourism project (CBET). Chi Phat offers mangroves and beaches, is home to a pro- travellers a rare opportunity to stay in a rural fusion of wildlife, including elephants, deer, community where tourism is controlled by leopards and sun bears. the local villagers themselves; and to explore the Cardamoms ecosystems while contribut- Alas, Botum Sakor appears to be a na- ing to their conservation and providing an tional park in name only. A US$3.5 billion alternative livelihood to the former poachers Chinese-run tourism project is developing who act as its protectors and guides. the western third of the park into seven resort-cities. Launched in 2010, the project 2 Activities & Tours will take 25 years to complete, but hundreds of local families have already been evicted All activities in Chi Phat are controlled from the area, a four-lane highway has been through the exceptionally organised CBET laid through the heart of the park, and a Community Visitor Centre (%092 720925, golf course is already up and running.The 035-675 6444; www.chi-phat.org; Chi Phat; new highway, which begins 6km west of An- h7am-7pm ; W), a two-minute walk from the doung Tuek, also provides access to the Koh river pier. The visitor centre has free wi-fi, Sdach Archipelago (p209). solar-powered electricity and a good res- taurant serving both meat and vegetarian Meanwhile, Cambodian businessman Ly Khmer food. Yong Phat has been granted a concession to develop a large central swath of the park. Prices for all tours are extremely rea- sonable, ranging from US$15 to US$25 per That leaves the eastern third of the pen- person including lunch, transport and insula as the only viable area to visit. Boats equipment. All-inclusive multiday trips cost can be hired in Andoung Tuek to take you a bit more per day. Prices include a contri- up into four mangrove-lined streams that bution to the community conservation fund. are rich with wildlife, including the pileat- All tours require guides, most of whom once ed gibbon, long-tailed macaque and black- worked as poachers and loggers. shanked douc langur. The streams are Ta Op, the largest, on the east coast; Ta Nun On arrival in Chi Phat, head to the visitor in the middle of the south coast; and Ta Nhi centre to organise activities, which must be and Preak Khsach on the east coast. booked by 5pm the day before. At the centre you can meet the guides and other guests At the park headquarters (%099 374797, returning from treks. This is the time to get 081 414988; NH48), 3.5km west of Andoung information about activities and the condi- Tuek, you can arrange a hike with a ranger tion of the trails, and learn how the local (US$5 a day) or a boat excursion out of An- community is now a force to protect the for- doung Tuek. ests it once plundered. Trail bikers and intrepid moto riders can bypass the newer highway and take the rug-
182 So u th C oas t KA octhi vKiotni egsPC&rooTnovsiuenrcsveat i o n C o rr i d o r As well as the many trekking, boating spotting isn’t guaranteed but there are usu- and mountain-biking activities on offer, it ally plenty of opportunities to shoot (with a is also possible to visit Wildlife Alliance’s camera) monkeys and hornbills. Although m illion-tree nursery, where it nurtures sap- the guides wear flip-flops, it’s recommended lings for its impressive reforestation pro- to bring walking shoes for the treks. gram. This is an educational experience and Boat Tours involves the chance to make a lasting mark CBET’s sunrise birdwatching boat trips and with a plant-a-tree initiative. You can also sunset star-gazing cruises (US$12 to US$35 hire kayaks to explore the river by yourself. per person) are a great way to experience the When we last called through town they were languid beauty of the Preak Piphot River. busy setting up new Khmer cooking classes. The former involves a 1½ hour longtail boat Treks ride before jumping in a traditional stand- CBET treks (US$15 to US$25 per person up rowing boat (with rower) and silently per day) range from one to seven days with paddling along the placid Stung Proat, an shorter trips exploring the bat caves, water- unlogged tributary of the river. falls, mountain communities and mysterious burial jar sites in the surroundings. The more Silver langurs, long-tailed macaques, adventurous can also get a glimpse into the greater hornbills and other rainforest crea- work involved in protecting the forest from tures can often be seen along the banks of illegal logging and poaching on three- to five- Stung Proat. Gibbons are hard to spot, but day patrol with forest ranger treks. can often be heard calling to each other through the forest canopy. On overnight trips you either sleep in Mountain-Biking Tours hammocks or at one of five campsites set CBET’s one- to two-day mountain-biking up by Wildlife Alliance, equipped with eco- tours (US$20 to US$25 per person per day) toilets, field kitchens and comfortable ham- follow trails to waterholes, burial jar sites, mocks with mosquito-proof nets. Wildlife CHI PHAT: AN ECOTOURISM CASE STUDY The Chi Phat community has long supplemented its meagre agricultural income with products from the nearby forests. Gathering nontimber forest products (known in develop- ment lingo as NTFPs) and small quantities of firewood can be ecologically sustainable, but around Chi Phat the wholesale forest destruction carried out during ‘the logging time’ – the anarchic 1990s – left the whole ecosystem, and the villagers’ livelihoods, way out of kilter. For many, poaching endangered animals became a way of life. When Wildlife Alliance (www.wildlifealliance.org) came on the scene in 2002 in a last- ditch effort to save the southern Cardamoms, local villagers and outsiders were encroach- ing on protected land, destroying the forest by illegal logging, and hunting endangered animals for local consumption and sale on the black market. The only way to prevent eco- logical catastrophe – and, among other things, to save macaques from being trapped, sold for US$60 and shipped to Vietnam to be eaten – was to send in teams of enforcement rangers to crack down on ‘forestry and wildlife crimes’. But enforcing the law impinged on local people’s ability to earn income, generating a great deal of resentment. Wildlife Alliance realised that in order to save the Cardamoms, it needed the cooperation of locals, which would be forthcoming only if income-generating alternatives to poaching and logging were available. Thus Wildlife Alliance launched what’s known in NGO parlance as a community-based ecotourism (CBET) project. The first step was empowering the local community. A com- mittee of 14 elected representatives was established to assess positive and negative im- pacts, set goals and manage the project. Many of those who joined as ‘stakeholders’ were former loggers and wildlife traders. Today the Chi Phat CBET project is flourishing. The initially sceptical locals have warmed to the idea, and the income generated from ecotourism – income that goes into both the villagers’ pockets and a community development fund – is starting to make a real difference. Chi Phat is seen as a model for other CBET projects, and delegations from around Cambodia now come here to see how it’s done.
waterfalls and rural communities in the sur- 183 rounding forest. Overnight trips use ham- homestays also have 12V fans powered over- mocks (with mosquito nets) for sleeping. If night by rechargeable car batteries. you want to explore the countryside around Chi Phat village solo, you can also hire CBET Guesthouses GUESTHOUSE $ mountain bikes at the CBET visitor centre. (www.chi-phat.org; r US$5, with bathroom US$6) S Chi Phat’s CBET project has 18 family-run guesthouses that provide small, clean rooms. While some only have shared bathrooms, Release Station Tours others come with en suite facilities. You can Wildlife Alliance Release specify your preference when booking at the Station Tours TOUR (%010 690864; www.wildlifealliance.org/page/ CBET visitor centre. All guesthouses are con- view/507/wildlife-release-station-tours; adult/child nected to the village’s electricity grid, which 1 night US$120/50, 2 nights US$200/75) Wild- operates mornings and evenings only. life Alliance operate tours to their release station (about 30 minutes from Chi Phat), CBET Bungalows BUNGALOW $ (www.chi-phat.org; bungalow US$10-15) S Chi where animals such as sun bears and bintu- Phat has two bungalow options provid- rongs are released into the wild after being rescued from illegal trafficking. Accommo- ing a greater degree of privacy than the village’s guesthouse and homestay accom- dation, food and activities – jungle trekking, modation. Both sets of bungalows are built wildlife tracking, and helping set up camera traps – are included. Transport (by motor- from natural materials and come with en suite bathrooms and dinky balconies. They bike) is provided from either Andoung Tuek have electricity in the mornings and eve- =or Chi Phat. Advance bookings essential. nings. So u th C oas t SK ol eheKpoi nngg CP roonvsienrcveat i o n C o rr i d o r 4 Sleeping Butterfly Island BUNGALOW $$ Chi Phat’s CBET project has a selection (www.chi-phat.org; bungalow US$30-35) S Chi of places to stay. Some are in town, others Phat’s most upmarket and peaceful place to are out in the countryside, surrounded by stay is Butterfly Island, a set of simple but orchards. There’s not a huge difference in sturdy bungalows, surrounded by lush for- accommodation standards, particularly be- est, on a small island in the middle of a river tween the guesthouses and the homestays. reached by a swing bridge. It has been closed All rooms – inspected monthly by the CBET recently, but reopening was on the cards. committee – are clean and commodious Check on the CBET website before arriving. and come with fans, mosquito nets, cotton sheets, foam mattresses, towel, free bottled 5 Eating & Drinking water and a laminated sheet on local cus- toms. The village only has electricity in the Several food stalls on the main strip between morning between 5am and 9am, and in the the river pier and the visitor centre sell sim- evening from 6pm to 9pm (bring a torch/ ple local food for about US$2 a dish. Soft flashlight). drinks and beer are available in local stores. The visitor centre boasts the only real bar in You can either book your room in ad- town, which (when it’s open) offers some of vance or simply call in at the visitor centre the best cocktails this side of Phnom Penh. when you arrive and choose your accom- modation then. The guesthouse owner will Visitor Centre Restaurant RESTAURANT $ come and meet you. (breakfast US$2.50, lunch & dinner US$3.50; v) The only restaurant in town is located at the CBET Homestays HOMESTAY $ visitor centre. Everybody enjoys the same se- (www.chi-phat.org; r US$4) S Many of Chi Phat’s 13 homestays are in wooden, stilted Khmer lection of three dishes for lunch, and three dishes for dinner, and the menu changes daily. houses that offer a glimpse into rural life. Vegetarians are catered for and packed lunch- Rooms are cosy and simple, and bathrooms are shared with the family. Some homestays es are available. All of the food is sourced locally, and much is locally grown or reared. have squat toilets and traditional shower facilities (a rainwater cistern with a plastic bucket). Dinner (US$2.50) can be provided. 8 Information Visitors can let CBET staff know if they need Western-style bathroom facil- Chi Phat has no bank or ATM; bring all the cash ities when choosing where to stay. Some you need with you. For information on all activ- ities, tours, accommodation and getting to Chi Phat check out www.chi-phat.org.
184 So u th C oas t GPS irehetatanhi noSguikhTvahinelroleeu k& PArwoavyi nc e Besides the surrounding islands, natural sites Very occasionally, at the boat dock in Andoung include Ream National Park, 18km east of Sihanoukville, and the Kbal Chhay Cascades. Tuek and in nearby coffee shops, scammers accost travellers, purveying misinformation, Sihanoukville ក្រុងព្រះសហី នុ offering bogus tourist services and demanding spurious payments. % 034 / POP 91,000 88 Getting There & Away Sure, Sihanoukville would never win first prize in a beauty competition, but thanks Chi Phat is on the scenic Preak Piphot River, to a surrounding coastline of white-sand 21km upriver from Andoung Tuek. Andoung beaches this is Cambodia’s most happening Tuek is on NH48, 98km from Koh Kong. All buses sun-sloth destination. Named in honour of travelling between Koh Kong and Phnom Penh or the then head-of-state, Sihanoukville (Kong Sihanoukville pass through here. Preah Sihanouk; also known as Kompong Som) was hacked out of the jungle in the late Arriving in Andoung Tuek, buses usually stop 1950s to create Cambodia’s first and only outside Kim Chhoun Guesthouse (the restau- deep-water port, strategically vital because it rant with blue pillars), where the management meant that the country’s international trade work in conjunction with CBET to help organise no longer had to pass through Vietnam’s onward transport to Chi Phat. This is the place Mekong Delta. to organise a moto or ask about the CBET boat if you haven’t already booked through the CBET Today it is a bustling and ever expanding website (www.chi-phat.org). city, but its sandy bits are one step removed from the hubbub. The Serendipity Beach CBET’s longtail boat (US$10), which makes area is a sort of decompression chamber for the two-hour trip from Andoung Tuek every day, backpackers, who flock here to rest up be- is the most atmospheric way to get to Chi Phat. tween travels and party through the night. It’s best to book at least 48 hours in advance through the CBET website to be sure of a place Even further away from the hustle, in on the boat. The boat leaves Andoung Tuek at the far south of town, is relaxed Otres 1pm (or whenever the Virak Buntham bus from Beach, where cheap bungalow joints and Phnom Penh arrives). The CBET community bohemian-flavoured guesthouses are now works only with local boatmen who have been neighbours with rather swish boutique re- trained in safety standards and whose boats sorts. The mellow scene here ticks all the have been remodelled to offer tourists a degree of comfort. The CBET-sanctioned boats have Sihanoukville life-vests and carry a spare engine. æ Sights You can also book a moto (US$7, 45 minutes) 1 Independence Beach ...........................A3 in advance to travel the 17km unsealed road to 2 Lamherkay Beach.................................A2 Chi Phat, although this is also easily organised 3 Sokha Beach......................................... C4 upon arrival in Andoung Tuek. Moto drivers drop 4 Victory Beach........................................ A1 passengers off across the river from Chi Phat 5 Wat Leu .................................................. C1 and a tiny raft-ferry (1000r) takes passengers to the village itself. Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 6 Fitness Resort .......................................C2 Travelling from Chi Phat, boats and motos can be booked the night before to return to Andoung ÿ Sleeping Tuek in the morning, in time to catch onward 7 Cloud 9 .................................................. C4 buses. The CBET office can also book bus tickets. 8 Independence Hotel .............................A3 9 Pagoda Rocks........................................ C1 If you have your own transport, the road to Chi Phat is unsealed but in pretty good shape. Follow 10 Sokha Beach Resort............................ C4 the telephone lines and use the car ferry to cross the river. Motorbikers can use the smaller raft-fer- ry, located 100m to the left of the main ferry. PREAH SIHANOUK ú Eating PROVINCE 11 Chez Claude ..........................................B3 12 Dao of Life..............................................C2 Sandwiched between Kampot and Koh Kong Provinces, diminutive Preah Sihanouk ï Information 13 Vietnamese Consulate.........................B2 Province (ខេតព្ត ្រះសហី ន;ុ also known as ï Transport Kompong Som Province) is dominated by its 14 Bus Station ............................................ B1 main city, the dynamic port of Sihanoukville.
185 boxes if you’re looking for lazy days of sun- Wat Leu BUDDHIST TEMPLE bathing rather than night-time bar-hopping. (វតល្ត �,ើ Wat Chhnothean; Map p185; Wat Leu Rd) Although none of Sihanoukville’s beaches Spectacular views of almost the entire city qualify as Southeast Asia’s finest, the sandy and gorgeous sunset panoramas await at strips rimmed by casuarina trees and coco- Wat Leu, situated on a peaceful, forested nut palms have plenty of tropical charm and hilltop 1.5km northwest of the city centre. it’s easy to find stretches of sand to yourself, From the city centre, a moto ride due north especially if you venture outside the cen- up the hill costs 6000r, but drivers will likely tre. If they’re not picture-postcard-perfect want US$2. Remorks have to take the long enough for you, Sihanoukville is also the way around and ask US$5. jumping-off point to Cambodia’s southern islands, where castaway-cool beckons. r Beaches 1 Sights Sihanoukville’s beaches all have wildly dif- ferent characters, offering something for On most days in the late afternoon, three just about everyone. For a more isolated troupes of tame monkeys gather on 2 Thnou sandy strip, the beaches of Ream National St – behind and on the chain-link fence en- Park (p200) are only a short ride away. closing the grounds of the Independence Hotel (p192) – hoping to score peanuts Occheuteal Beach BEACH and bananas from passing humans. Locals often stop by with their kids, generating (ឆ្រនេ អូរឃ�ើទាល; Map p190) This 4km-long a great deal of mirth and mutual inter- beach is by far Sihanoukville’s most pop- primate a dmiration. ular. The rocky strip at the northwestern end is known as Serendipity Beach (Map So u th C oas t SP irhgeahanthsoSuikhvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e 66Sihanoukville e# 0 1 km A Ekareach St00.5 miles SihanBoukville Port CBoray Ka D Ferry Dock (500m) Sihanoukville NH4 £# DPort ·/Area 1 Krong St 1 uchea Soviet St 444 /·NH4 Ù# 46444462 Koh Mò#Vá#iitHctMItainolpldorhyneepuaempneKd1›#na4etmncpe6Ø# makor St ÿ#9 Ú#5 66DWat Leu Rd –# (15km); Ream National Park (15km); 66NH48 (80km) 2 Ù# 2 Pos #ú12 Don Bosco 44Bridge ‚ Ù# Lamherkay Beach í# ñ# DHotel School (Hawaii Beach) (3km) 13 Omui St Santepheap St Ù# Boeng 19 Mithona St 3 PTruepk Thnou 444Koh Pos Beach See Sihanoukville City Centre Map (p187) 3 ÿ# 44644648 44441 Ù# ú#11 2 T hno u St SBaomenAgt 46446446446Ù# Serendipity See Serendipity Map (p190) 10 St ÿ# Gulf of Beach Occheuteal Thailand D3 4444444444 Beach 4 7 ÿ# Ù# Ù# 1 Kanda St Otres Otres Beach – walking only (3.5km) DBeach (6km) 4444A B C D
186 squeaks loudly underfoot. The tiny eastern p190), which has a few resort bar-restaurants end of Sokha Beach is open to the public where waves lap a few metres from the ta- and is rarely crowded. The rest is part of bles, providing a romantic backdrop. Turn- the exclusive Sokha Beach Resort (Map ing left from the pier, a string of beach-bars p185; %034-935999; www.sokhahotels.com; rim the white sand. During the day this area Thnou St; r/ste from US$171/210; aiWs). is busy with vendors, beggars and nuisances Tourists are welcome to enjoy the sand such as jet skis. Escape the mayhem by walk- near Sokha but are expected to buy some- ing to the southern section of the beach. thing to drink or eat. You might even duck Occheuteal can get packed, especially into the resort to use the pool (US$5). at weekends when local families arrive for some beach time. It’s also far from clean, Victory Beach BEACH particularly along the beach-bar section; note the rivulets of waste water that flow (ឆ្រេន ជ័យជំនះ; Map p185) Though it’s not the from the shacks into the surf. The southern best beach in town due to the looming section of the beach is ultimately slated to backdrop of Sihanoukville Port, it is hassle- become another exclusive Sokha resort, but free and family-friendly, with plenty of is for now pretty empty. midrange beach eateries. oOtres Beach BEACH Lamherkay Beach BEACH (ឆ្នេរអរូ ត ្រេះ; Map p194) Past the southern end (ឆ្នេរលម្ែកហ ាយ; Map p185) About 1.5km south- west of Victory Beach is Lamherkay Beach, of Occheuteal Beach, beyond the Phnom also known as Hawaii Seaview Beach. It’s Som Nak Sdach (Hill of the King’s Palace) headland, lies stunning Otres Beach; a hugely popular with car-owning Khmers on weekends and holidays but quiet on So u th C oas t ASP icrhteaai vnhiotSuiiekhsvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e seemingly infinite strip of casuarinas that weekdays. Koh Pos (Snake Island), the gives southern Thailand a run for its money. Although no longer the empty stretch of island 800m offshore, has been leased by Russians with big resort plans, which ex- beach it once was, Otres has cleaner water plains the flashy new bridge linking it with and is more relaxed than anything in Sihan- oukville proper, and is lengthy enough that the mainland. It’s currently a bridge to no- where, as work on the actual resort appears finding your own patch of sand is not a chal- to have stalled. lenge…just walk south. Long eyed-up by large-scale developers, Otres has so far managed to shun major Independence Beach BEACH construction work and DIY development is (ឆ្រនេ ឯករាជ្យ; Map p185) Northwest of Sokha Beach Independence Beach (7-Chann Beach) blossoming with more than 30 small-scale has mostly been taken over by a gargan- independent resorts and beach bungalow places in the area, including a handful of tuan new property development. The only open section is beneath the classic hotel for upmarket boutique hotels. Otres is split into which the beach is named. three distinct sections: Otres 1 (Map p194) is the first and busiest stretch, while about 2 Activities 2km south is quieter Otres 2 (Map p194), separated by a slated resort development Starfish Bakery & Café MASSAGE currently known as ‘Long Beach’. Inland lies (Map p187; off 7 Makara St; per hr US$6-10; h7am- 6pm) S Masseuses who are visually or laid-back Otres Village, an up-and-coming physically disabled and have been trained estuary area. Otres Beach is about 5km south of the by Western massage therapists perform Khmer, Thai, oil, foot and Indian head mas- Serendipity area. It’s a US$2 moto ride (re- sages. Profits go towards social projects. mork US$5) to get here (more at night). If going it alone, follow the road southeast Relax SPA along the beach and skirt the hill by heading (Map p190; %085 352213; Serendipity Beach Rd; inland on the inviting tarmac. From the city per hr from US$10; h10am-9.30pm) This place’s centre, you can take Omui St from Psar Leu Khmer, lavender, jasmine-oil and foot mas- east out of town for 5km. sages get great reviews. They also offer facials, pedicures and waxing. Sokha Beach BEACH (ឆ្េរន សុខា ; Map p185) Midway between Inde- Seeing Hands Massage 3 MASSAGE pendence and Serendipity beaches lies Si- (Map p187; 95 Ekareach St; per hr US$6; h8am- hanoukville’s prettiest beach, 1.5km-long 9pm) S Some of the blind masseurs who Sokha Beach. Its fine, silicon-like sand work their magic here speak English.
187 Sihanoukville City Centre e# 0 400 m AB 0 0.2 miles î#CT Clinic C D 1 Boray Kamakor St Omui St 1 Koh Rong St Taxi Park Ekarea1c7h›#St St 109 ú# 5 ˜# ò# ›# 15 St 108 10 ú# 11 þ# 4 ì##ì 12 Sopheakmongkol St 13 ú# 7 16 ›# 7 Makara St Psar Leu 2 ÿ# ›# 2 2 ú# 8 St 218 St 9 216 ú# ›#14 Sereypheap St Ekareach St Ø# 1 So u th C oas t APS icrhteaai vnhiotSuiiekhsvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e 3 ú# 3 6 ú# 3 ABCD Sihanoukville City Centre þ Shopping 10 Mr Heinz ................................................... B1 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Starfish ............................................. (see 9) 1 Seeing Hands Massage 3 ...................... C3 Starfish Bakery & Café....................(see 9) ÿ Sleeping ï Information 2 Small Hotel .............................................. C2 11 ANZ Royal Bank....................................... B1 12 Canadia Bank...........................................C2 ú Eating 3 Cabbage Farm Restaurant.................... B3 ï Transport 4 Espresso Kampuchea ............................B1 13 Capitol Tour .............................................C2 5 Gelato Italiano ..........................................B1 14 GST............................................................C3 6 Holy Cow.................................................. C3 15 Phnom Penh Sorya ................................. B1 7 Psar Leu ................................................... D2 16 Rith Mony .................................................C2 8 Samudera Supermarket........................ C2 17 Virak Buntham......................................... B1 9 Starfish Bakery & Café........................... C2 Fitness Resort GYM longest-running dive operator in Sihan- oukville, Scuba Nation is a PADI five-star (Map p185; %015 620534; www.fitness- centre with a comfortable boat for day and sihanoukville.com; Boray Kamakor St; day pass/ liveaboard trips. class US$5/6; h6am-8pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun) A French-run complex with a huge open-air gym, free weights, aerobics, and Khmer and Dive Shop DIVING Thai boxing classes. (Map p190; %034-933664; www.diveshop cambodia.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; PADI Dis- cover Scuba US$95, 1-/2-dive package US$65/80; Diving & Water Sports Scuba Nation DIVING h9am-7pm) PADI five-star dive centre offer- (Map p190; %012 604680; www.divecambodia. ing the full gamut of PADI courses, as well com; Serendipity Beach Rd; 2-dive package US$85, as fun dives and liveaboards. Also has a dive PADI Open Water US$445; h8am-6.30pm) The shop on Koh Rong Sanloem.
188 EcoSea Dive DIVING Check out the boat operator thoroughly before signing up. Drowning kind of takes (Map p190; %034-934631; www.ecoseadive.com; the fun out of a day on the water. Serendipity Beach Rd; 3-dive package US$90; h9am-7pm) Offers both PADI and SSI courses and has competitively priced fun-dive rates. Eco-Trek Tours ADVENTURE TOUR (Map p190; %012 987073; www.ecotours cambodia.com; h8am-10pm) This travel agen- Hurricane Windsurfing WATER SPORTS (Map p194; %017 471604; sydney.victor@yahoo. cy runs highly recommended boat tours and fr; Queenco Palm Beach Resort, Otres 1; h9am- 6.30pm) Rents paddleboards (US$8 per trekking trips to Ream National Park as well as boat trips around the islands. hour), windsurfers (basic US$10 per hour, high-performance US$20), sea kayaks Suntours BOAT TOUR (single US$4 per hour, tandem US$6) and (%016 396201; www.suntours-cambodia.com; per person US$30) Suntours offers upmarket is- skimboards (try bungee skimboarding). land cruises. Their day cruises to Koh Rong Otres Beach sometimes gets surf from May to October; you can rent surfboards and Sanloam, which get rave reviews, include snacks, buffet lunch, coffee and tea, as well as bodyboards here too. snorkelling, kayaking and fishing equipment. Blue Lagoon Kitesurf Centre WATER SPORTS Liberty Ranch HORSE RIDING (Map p194; %085 511145; Papa Pippo, Otres 1; 1hr lesson incl equipment US$50; h9am-7pm) This (Map p194; %016 339774; www.libertyranch- kitesurfing centre rents equipment as well sihanoukville.com; Otres Village; 1/2/3hr trail ride as running kitesurfing lessons and multiday US$25/45/60; h7-11am & 3-6pm) A horseback courses. Located on Otres Beach, near Papa tour is a great way to discover the tranquil So u th C oas t PSCiroheuaarnhsoeSusikhvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e Pippo restaurant, they also run boat tours countryside around Sihanoukville. Total be- to four islands (US$15 per person including ginners can opt for trails along Otres Beach breakfast, lunch and snorkelling). and explore the small villages nearby, while more advanced riders can venture on longer C Courses tours that head further out towards the hills. Don Bosco Hotel Khmer Party Boat BOAT TOUR Cooking Course COOKING COURSE (Map p190; www.thepartyboat.asia; Serendipity (%034-934478; www.donboscohotelschool.com/ Beach Pier; per person US$25) The daily cruise cooking; Don Bosco Hotel School, Ou Phram St; per person US$30) S The cooking classes here (9.30am to 5pm) to Koh Rong Sanloem in- cludes snacks, lunch, snorkelling and a free provide a great opportunity to support the drink. They also run return transport to Koh worthy Don Bosco Hotel School plus learn Rong Island’s full moon parties leaving Siha- some Khmer culinary skills. They include noukville at 5pm and returning around 8am. a trip to the market and a slap-up three- course lunch (which you’ve helped create), Stray Dogs of Asia ADVENTURE TOUR as well as a tour of the hotel school. Classes (Map p190; %017 810125; www.straydogasia.com; Mithona St; tours US$100; h9am-6pm) Runs usually run from 10am to 12.30pm on Tues- all-day countryside dirt-bike tours that take days, Thursdays and Saturdays. in some of the natural attractions around T Tours Sihanoukville. Popular day tours go to some of the closer is- 4 Sleeping lands and to Ream National Park (US$20 per person). You can also hire a boat and make Location, location, location; each Sihan- your own way to the islands: most travel oukville district has its own distinct charac- agencies and guesthouses can arrange a boat. ter and attracts a different type of clientele. Budget US$50 for a boat to Koh Ta Kiev from We quote prices for the high season (No- Occheuteal, and a bit less for Koh Russei. vember to March). Rates drop between June You’ll save money going from Otres Beach. and October, especially on Serendipity and Otres Beaches, but can skyrocket on Khmer Booze cruises offer backpackers the holidays at some establishments. chance to spend the day onboard getting sloshed under the sun. Be aware that acci- 4 Serendipity & Occheuteal dents have occurred (including one boat sinking due to overloading passengers) and The main backpacker hang-out is Serendip- there are rarely enough life jackets onboard. ity Beach Rd, which runs up the hill from
Serendipity Beach, connecting to Ekareach 189 St at the Golden Lions Roundabout (Map p190; Ekareach St). A string of wallet-friendly Big Easy HOSTEL $ crash pads and guesthouses meander all the (Map p190; %081 943930; Serendipity Beach Rd; way up the street. Decent midrange options dm US$3, r US$6-10; W) This classic backpack- can be found on the roads running south- er joint is accommodation, comfort food and east from here. a lively rock bar all rolled into one. Rooms are basic but you’ll most likely spend your Late-night noise from the nearby clubs time in the bar, which has a great vibe with affects most of the accommodation here. occasional live music and live EPL games. The din lessens substantially in the hotels slightly further east but light sleepers may oRopanha Boutique want to bunk elsewhere. Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (Map p190; %012 556654; www.ropanha-boutique hotel.com; 23 Tola St; r incl breakfast US$45-55; oChochi Garden aWs) The pick of the pack when it comes GUESTHOUSE $ to affordable atmosphere in the Serendipi- (Map p190; %070 865640; www.chochigarden. com; Serendipity Beach Rd; r with fan/air-con ty area. Set around a lush courtyard garden US$15/25; naW) Finally! Serendipity gets and pool, Ropanha’s rooms include flat- its first boutique backpacker pad. Italian- screen TVs and accompanying DVD players, Japanese couple Francesca and Taka have plus rain showers in the bathroom. Deluxe created the nearest Serendipity gets to a rooms have pool views but all have lashings tranquil oasis right in the heart of the ac- of white and are exceptionally well cared for. tion. Out the front is a cool bar/restaurant while simple rooms, some with palm-thatch OC Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p190; %034-933658; www.ochotel.asia; 23 roofs and pretty painted window-grills, are Tola St; r incl breakfast US$49-86; aWs) There So u th C oas t PS ilrheaeanphionSugikhvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e in a plant-filled garden strewn with comfy seating areas. are two OC hotels in one location: choose either the slick deluxe rooms in the new an- nexe, with swags of contemporary style and The Gypsies GUESTHOUSE $ pool views; or the less expensive options in (Map p190; %088 788 2100; www.the-gypsies. com; Serendipity Beach Rd; dm/r US$7/25; aW) the old building, which have great amenities Right beside Serendipity’s pier Gypsies is a but a lot less pizzazz. Guests get free trans- cute-as-a-button yellow building. Upstairs fers to Otres Beach. are four breezy rooms with bags of bohemi- an flair that share a wide balcony overlook- Coolabah Resort HOTEL $$ (Map p190; %017 678218; www.coolabah-hotel. ing the mayhem below. The cafe downstairs com; 14 Mithona St; r US$42-65; aiWs) This serves up some decent grub and there’s a (poky) dorm too. popular Aussie-run hotel gets kudos for having the most on-the-ball staff in the Ser- endipity area. Rooms are classically styled One Stop Hostel HOSTEL $ in soothing neutrals with smart art and (Map p190; %096 339 0005; onestophostelshv@ gmail.com; Golden Lions Roundabout; dm US$7; contemporary bathrooms, and come in a aWs) Dorm beds just got a makeover. The variety of sizes including family options.The eight-bed dorms here, decked out in lashings bar here is one of Serendipity’s more relaxed of white-on-white, boast beds with individual places to sit down with a beer. reading lamps and luggage lock-boxes. Rooms are set around a wall-to-ceiling glassed court- Reef Resort HOTEL $$ (Map p190; %034-934281; www.reefresort.com. yard with a small pool, proving slick styling kh; Serendipity Beach Rd; incl breakfast d US$30- doesn’t have to cost the earth. 40, f US$55-60; aWs) Reef’s enthusiastic new owners were giving the property a Monkey Republic HOSTEL $ modern-Mediterranean makeover when we (Map p190; %012 490290; http://monkey republic.info; Serendipity Beach Rd; dm US$6, r with last pulled through town. This was the first fan US$15-22, r with air-con US$18-30; aiW) upmarket property to open in the Serendip- Self-proclaimed ‘backpacker central’, Monkey ity area and the generously proportioned Republic rose from the ashes in 2013 follow- rooms, well-kitted-out family suites and ing a dramatic fire (no casualties). It offers 12.5m pool still make it a smart choice. decent dorms and plain, affordable rooms in a building fronted by a yellow French colonial Cloud 9 BUNGALOW $$ (Map p185; %098 215166; www.cloud9bungalows. facade. The bar-restaurant constantly heaves com; Serendipity Beach; bungalow US$40-100; with young travellers.
190 Serendipity e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles ABC D St ÿ#2E1kareach 1 661 Thnou›#St #ú 3#ú132#ûÿ#224#pÿ#24541Ø##p808ÿ›##4#û591#f#3AT#ý0#úrnaa4#ú3ve42f#l 1 Golden Lions 2 48 Roundabout 29 #æ 13 ÿ# 50 Serendipity 38 Beach Rd #û 662 37 #û þ#46# Serendipity Beach Rd 10 15 43 23 Tola St28 1 Kanda St 39 #û #ú27 ÿ# #ý #ú #ú 34 26 #ú #p 9 ÿ# 19 ÿ# 14 Mithona St (Occheuteal St) 17 ÿ# 6 #ú 24 ÿ# # þ# 31 45 35 #ú 444444443 1611 2ÿ#5 3 ÿ# ÿ# 20 Ù#3 Serendipity Beach 44444444ÿ# D #7Serendipity #û 41 ï# f# Pier Ù#2 So u th C oas t SP ilrheaeanphionSugikhvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e 47 Tourist Information 44444444444#û36 ÿ# Centre 23 4 44444444 4 Koh Rong & 44444 Koh Rong Sanloem CD AB 44444W) The last place on Serendipity Beach is a Asian decorative touches, come with great fine choice, and not just because it’s furthest amenities (including kettles and decent removed from the club noise. It has a cosy bathroom toiletries) and the larger ones are tropical bar and we really like their range of great for travelling families. rustic, Khmer-style wooden bungalows with fans and ocean-view balconies. Nice Beach Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p190; %034-659 4999; www.nicebeach- BUNGALOW $$ hotel.com; 14 Mithona St; r incl breakfast US$25- Cove (Map p190; %034-638 0296; www.thecovebeach. 35; aW) This Cambodian villa-style hotel com; Serendipity Beach; r with air-con from US$29, offers enticing value for money with pow- bungalow from US$40; aW) This clutch of erful air-con, fridge and cable TV (that actu- bungalows nestles into the hillside. Most di- ally works) in all rooms. Bag a front-facing rectly face the sea and come with balconies room for a swish bathroom and balcony. and hammocks. Be aware that bungalows here are close together so there’s not much Diamond Ocean Resort HOTEL $$ privacy. There’s also a row of rooms in a con- (Map p190; %034-683 3999; www.diamond crete block higher up the hill. oceanresort.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; r incl breakfast US$55-75; naWs) The facade is HOTEL $$ business-bland but this new hotel provides Blue Sea Boutique Hotel (Map p190; %034-933999; www.bluesea- the bells and whistles necessary for those boutique.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; r incl breakfast who can’t live without their mod-cons. Large US$60-80; aWs) These bungalows are set rooms have subtle touches of Khmer artistry amid a lush garden with pool. Rooms, with and come with contemporary bathrooms.
191 Serendipity 27 Invito .........................................................B2 So u th C oas t PS ilrheaeanphionSugikhvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e 28 Leisure Cafe .............................................C2 æ Sights 29 Marco Polo ............................................... B1 1 Golden Lions Roundabout......................C1 30 Mick & Craig's .......................................... B1 2 Occheuteal Beach................................... B3 31 Nyam.........................................................C3 3 Serendipity Beach .................................. A3 32 Olive & Olive ............................................. B1 33 Sandan...................................................... B1 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 34 So...............................................................B2 4 Dive Shop..................................................B1 35 Taj Mahal ..................................................C3 5 EcoSea Dive............................................. B2 û Drinking & Nightlife 6 Eco-Trek Tours ....................................... B3 36 JJ's Playground .......................................C4 7 Party Boat................................................ B3 37 La Rhumerie.............................................B2 8 Relax ......................................................... B2 38 Led Zephyr ...............................................B2 9 Scuba Nation........................................... B2 39 Maybe Later .............................................B2 10 Stray Dogs of Asia .................................. B2 40 Reggae Bar............................................... B1 41 Sessions ...................................................B3 ÿ Sleeping 42 Utopia........................................................B2 11 Above Us Only Sky.................................. A3 ý Entertainment 12 Big Easy.....................................................B1 43 Galaxy Cinema.........................................B2 13 Blue Sea Boutique Hotel........................ B2 44 Top Cat Cinema....................................... B1 14 Chochi Garden ....................................... B2 þ Shopping 15 Coolabah Resort ..................................... B2 45 Q&A ...........................................................C3 16 Cove.......................................................... A3 46 Tapang......................................................B2 17 Diamond Ocean Resort ......................... B3 ï Transport 18 Monkey Republic .....................................B1 47 Ferry Dock ................................................B3 19 Nice Beach Hotel .................................... B2 48 Giant Ibis................................................... A1 20 OC Hotel................................................... D3 49 Kampot Tours & Travel .......................... B1 21 One Stop Hostel ......................................C1 50 Speed Ferry Cambodia........................... C1 22 Reef Resort...............................................B1 51 TBC Speed Boat ...................................... B1 23 Ropanha Boutique Hotel........................ D4 24 Serendipity Beach Resort...................... B3 25 The Gypsies ............................................ B3 ú Eating 26 Cafe Mango.............................................. B2 Serendipity Beach Resort HOTEL $$ some long-termers because it’s cheap and (Map p190; %034-938888; www.serendipity it’s removed from the traveller scene. Most beachresort.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; r US$45-75; banks and businesses are here too, as is Si- aiWs) Ignore the ugly ducking exterior, hanoukville’s main market. for inside a Serendipity swan awaits. Prices here remain good value given the impressive Victory Hill (Weather Station Hill, also size and style of the rooms. The huge pool is known as ‘The Hill’), once a backpacker often partially shaded. haven, is up the hill from Victory Beach. The main drag is pretty sleazy and far re- Above Us Only Sky BUNGALOW $$$ moved from its original hippy-trippy vibe, (Map p190; %089 822318; www.aboveusonlysky. but one of the longest-running guesthouses net; Serendipity Beach; bungalow $80-100; here remains a good locally owned option. aW) The bungalows here are attractive- Independence Beach and Sokha Beach both ly minimalist inside with tiled floors and have high-end resorts occupying the prime glass-fronted doors to make the most of the beach real estate. sea panoramas. Chances are you’ll spend Small Hotel HOTEL $ most of your time parked on the cosy balco- (Map p187; %034-630 6161; www.thesmallhotel. ny in a comfy cane chair, taking in the view. info; s/d US$17/25; naiW) Run by a clued- The bar-restaurant, perched over the rocks up Swedish-Khmer couple, this guesthouse by the seashore, is a real gem. is as cosy as sitting in front of a fireplace on a snowy Scandinavian night. The 11 rooms lack the immense character of the lobby 4 City Centre & Around but are spotless and have hot water, fridge and TV. The shabby city centre, spread out along and north of Ekareach St, is preferred by
192 Don Bosco Hotel School HOTEL $$ Even if you’re not staying, stop in for a (%034-934478; www.donboscohotelschool.com; drink or to sample their Aussie meat pies Ou Phram St; s US$35, d US$40-65; naWs) ($4.50 to $7) or quesadillas ($3 to $4.50). S This excellent training hotel offers dis- advantaged youngsters a helping hand into Otres Orchid BUNGALOW $ (Map p194; %034-633 8484; www.otresorchid. hospitality. Rooms are great value with a com; Otres 1; bungalow with fan/air-con US$20/35; three-star trim throughout. Facilities include a pool, a gym and an Italian restaurant. The aW) Cracking value, the Orchid offers sim- ple bungalows at sensible prices in a garden location isn’t great but the experience more setting a hop-skip-jump to the beach. The than compensates. It’s signposted from Omui St when travelling out of the city cen- fan-only bungalows have more character than the air-con options and come with tre on the road to Otres Beach. hammock-strung balconies. Pagoda Rocks BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ SeaGarden BUNGALOW $ (Map p185; %077 524275; www.pagodarocks.com; Wat Leu Area; d/f US$65/105; aWs) If you’re (Map p194; %096 253 8131; www.seagarden otres.com; Otres 1; dm US$5,r US$15-20; W) Look going to stay far away from the beach you no further for a cheap bungalow right on might as well stay somewhere memorable. Pagoda Rocks has a swanky restaurant, a the sand. SeaGarden offers basic beach huts, and rooms in a stilted building, both on the blissful infinity pool with prime views of the beach. The new owner keeps everything port area, and chic cottages. Unfortunately, getting here is a hassle if you don’t have your neat as a pin and was building a spacious dorm when we last pulled into town. own wheels; remork drivers demand US$5 So u th C oas t SP ilrheaeanphionSugikhvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e one way. Ask for ‘Wat Leu’. Castaways BUNGALOW $ (Map p194; %012 998492; Otres 2; bungalow Independence Hotel HOTEL $$$ US$15-25) Castaways has just five wood- (Map p185; %034-934300; www.independence hotel.net; 2 Thnou St; d/ste from US$130/155; floored bungalows, brightened by wall mu- rals, on the sand. More expensive options aiWs) Opened in 1963, this striking come with en suite. This place’s quiet location seven-storey hotel still has the jet-set feel of Sihanoukville’s movie-star heyday. After suits those looking for serious downtime. years of neglect it was reopened in 2007. It Hacienda HOSTEL $ features fresh contemporary rooms with sea panoramas or views of the landscaped gar- (Map p194; %070 814643; Otres Village; dm US$4, r US$8-15; W) Hacienda is a laid-back back- dens, and a few bungalows overlooking the packer zone on Otres’ estuary with cheap water. Ride the elevator to the private beach. dorm beds and basic bungalows. There’s also a popular bar-restaurant that often breaks 4 Otres Beach into a party. Groovy little Otres is Sihanoukville’s laid-back oMushroom Point BUNGALOW $$ beach colony with a cluster of bungalows, (Map p194; %078 509079; www.mushroompoint. guesthouses and stylish boutique resorts run- com; Otres 1; dm US$8, bungalow US$25-30; W) ning along the sand. The beach is split into The open-air dorm in the shape of a mush- two sections, separated by a 2.5km section room wins the award for most creative in of empty beach. Otres 1 has most of the ac- Cambodia. Even those averse to communal commodation while quieter Otres 2, further living will be content in their mosquito-net– south, is home to the boutique resorts. Just draped pods, good for two. Quirky ’shroom- inland is Otres Village with a scattering of re- shaped bungalows are beautifully conceived laxed places nestled on a river estuary. with hammocks outside for lounging. Their oWish You Were Here HOSTEL $ beach annex has more bungalows and a bar. (Map p194; %097 241 5884; http://wishotres. Elephant Garden RESORT $$ com; Otres 1; dm US$6, r US$14-16, bungalows US$18; nW) This rickety wooden building (Map p194; %034-659 0222; www.elephant- garden.com; Otres 2; bungalow US$35-50, f US$60; is one of the hippest hang-outs in Otres. aW) This intimate resort is on a quiet Rooms are simple but the balcony upstairs encourages serious sloth-time and the bar- stretch of sand and has shaded terraces strewn with cushions. Bed down in either restaurant downstairs has a great vibe thanks stilted Khmer houses or opt for the tidy to chilled-out tunes and friendly staff. palm-thatched bungalows. The split-level
193 family suite is perfect for travellers with lit- Ren RESORT $$$ tle ones in tow. (Map p194; %078 539999; www.ren-resort.com; Otres 2; r incl breakfast US$95-107; naWs) Otres Lodge BUNGALOW $$ Ren has gone for super-slick minimalism (Map p194; %070 857391; www.otreslodge.com; Otres 1; bungalow with fan/air-con US$45/55; with a nod to mid-century modern in its 24 stylish rooms set around an inviting aWs) Otres Lodge has roomy thatch- pool and surrounded by lush foliage. Three roofed, wooden bungalows amid a flower- filled garden. Out the front the small pool is rooms have rather sumptuous outdoor bath- rooms, while others have balconies that flow on hand if you’re too lazy to make it across right into the pool – great for those who fan- the road to the beach. The restaurant is re- nowned for its burgers. cy a swim as soon as they wake up. Papa Pippo BUNGALOW $$ Secret Garden RESORT $$$ (Map p194; %097 649 5131; www.secretgarden (Map p194; %010 359725; www.papapippo. otres.com; Otres 2; bungalow incl breakfast from com; Otres 1; bungalow US$30-35) Sandy-toed bliss is at hand with these cosy, and rather US$119; aWs) Otres’ first upmarket bou- tique resort is still one of its best. Cute bun- classy, beachfront bungalows. Glass doors galows, set amid a manicured garden with make the most of the sea views while the interiors, with painted-wood walls and tiled swimming pool, have bright and breezy de- cor, while sun-lounging heaven is available at floors, add a touch of individual style. the beachside bar-restaurant across the road. Mama Clare’s BUNGALOW $$ Tamu BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (Map p194; %097 690 2914; www.mamaclares. com; Otres Village; bungalow US$30-35; W) (Map p194; %088 901 7451; www.tamucambodia. So u th C oas t PS ilrheaeanphionSugikhvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e com; Otres 2; r incl breakfast US$110-170; aWs) Peaceful downtime is on the cards at this This ultra-contemporary boutique hotel offers homely place on Otres’ riverbank. The wood- and-thatch stilted bungalows are a rustic re- a range of simple yet chic rooms set around a courtyard pool. Bag a pool-front room for a treat from the world and vegetarian dinners Balinese-style alfresco bathroom. There’s also (US$4 to $5) are eaten communally. a hip beachside restaurant open to all. THE LAST BATTLE OF THE VIETNAM WAR The final bloody confrontation of the Vietnam or Indochina War took place off the coast of Sihanoukville. On 12 May 1975, two weeks after the fall of Saigon, Khmer Rouge forces used captured US-made Swift boats to seize an American merchant ship, the SS Mayagüez (named after a city in Puerto Rico), while it was on a routine voyage from Hong Kong to Thailand. The vessel was anchored 50km southwest of Sihanoukville off Koh Tang – now a popular scuba-diving destination – while the 39 crew members were taken to Sihanoukville. Determined to show resolve in the face of this ‘act of piracy’, President Gerald Ford or- dered that the ship and its crew be freed. Naval planes from the US aircraft carrier Coral Sea bombed Sihanoukville’s oil refinery and the Ream airbase, and Marines prepared for their first hostile boarding of a ship at sea since 1826. On 15 May, Marines stormed aboard the Mayagüez like swashbuckling pirates but found it deserted. In parallel, airborne Marine units landed on Koh Tang. Thought to be lightly defended, the island turned out to have been fortified in anticipation of a Vietnam- ese attack (Vietnam also claimed the island). In the course of the assault, most of the US helicopters were destroyed or damaged and 15 Americans were killed. Unbeknown to the Americans, early on 15 May the Khmer Rouge had placed the crew of the Mayagüez aboard a Thai fishing boat and set it adrift – but the men weren’t dis- covered by US ships until after the assault on Koh Tang had begun. In the chaotic with- drawal from the island, three Marines were accidentally left behind and, it is believed, later executed by the Khmer Rouge. The Vietnam War Memorial in Washington DC lists American war dead chronologi- cally, which is why the names of the Marines who perished in the ‘Mayagüez Incident’ appear at the bottom of the very last panel.
194 44Otres Beach e# 0 400 m Otres Beach A 0 0.2 miles B D Serendipity æ Top Sights 4444444Beach Rd (6km) 1 Otres Beach...........................................A2 11 æ Sights 2 Otres 1 Beach ........................................ A1 5 Ø# ÿ#12 3 Otres 2 Beach........................................B3 444444ÿ#13 2 Ù# Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 20ú# ÿ#19 4 Blue Lagoon Kitesurf Centre...............B2 444444444444644444462 Otre1sÙ# 21 Ø# 5 Hurricane Windsurfing......................... A1 6 Liberty Ranch ........................................B2 ú# 6 ÿ Sleeping Beach 2216ú#1ÿ#4 ÿ#ÿ#11 7 Castaways .............................................B3 2 8 Elephant Garden ...................................B3 9 Hacienda ................................................B2 Ø#D4evSellaotpemd ent 23ý# 10 10 Mama Clare's ........................................B2 11 Mushroom Point ...................................A2 ÿ# ÿ# Area 444444446444463 9 3Ù# 12 Otres Lodge........................................... A1 13 Otres Orchid .......................................... A1 8 ÿ# 3 14 Papa Pippo.............................................A2 7 ÿ# ÿ#17 15 Ren .........................................................B3 ÿ#18 16 SeaGarden.............................................A2 ÿ#15 17 Secret Garden .......................................B3 So u th C oas t PESairhteaiannhgoSuikhvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e6444444A B 18 Tamu ......................................................B3 19 Wish You Were Here............................. A1 ú Eating 5 Eating 20 Chez Paou.............................................. A1 21 Mom's Kitchen ......................................A2 44If you’ve had your fill of noodles for a while, Mushroom Point .......................... (see 11) Sihanoukville’s globetrotting mash-up men- Papa Pippo................................... (see 14) 22 Shin.........................................................A2 6us of quesadillas, burgers, kebabs, and plenty of pizza and pasta should hit the right spot. ý Entertainment The Serendipity area has the most dining 23 Otres Market .........................................B2 choice, but the gritty commercial centre also holds a few culinary surprises. Otres is your best bet for atmospheric meals on the beach. ing out wood-fired pizzas, homemade pasta and delicate gnocchi. Dine at lunchtime or 5 Serendipity & Occheuteal before 6.30pm for a main course accom- panied by garlic bread or bruschetta and a For ambience, check out the over-the-water drink for just US$5. resort restaurants at Serendipity Beach. Two blocks inland, Tola St is developing into a Leisure Cafe CAFE $ restaurant zone, with a plethora of barbecue (Map p190; 23Tola St; mains US$1.50-3.50; h7am- places in the evening. 9pm; W) This contemporary cafe is located oNyam CAMBODIAN $ in the grounds of the Golden Sands Hotel. (Map p190; www.nyamsihanoukville.com; 23 Tola St; With turbo air-con, this is a great place to mains US$2-4.25; h5-10pm; W) Translating as hide from the heat and sample its coffee ‘Eat’ in Khmer, this is a great spot for a con- creations and the New Zealand Natural ice temporary Cambodian dinner experience. cream. All the favourites are here such as amok oSandan CAMBODIAN $$ (baked fish), but there are also some healthy (Map p190; 2 Thnou St; mains US$4-10; h7am- seafood offerings reflecting its coastal loca- 9pm Mon-Sat; Wc) S Loosely modelled on tion. the beloved Phnom Penh restaurant Rom- deng (p64), this superb restaurant is an ex- Cafe Mango ITALIAN $ tension of the vocational-training programs (Map p190; Serendipity St; mains US$3-6; h7am- for at-risk Cambodians run by local NGO 10pm; W) A cracking little Italian cafe turn-
195 M’lop Tapang. The menu features creative 5 City Centre & Around Cambodian cuisine targeted at a slightly upmarket clientele. There’s a kids’ play area For Sihanoukville’s cheapest dining, head to and occasional cultural shows. the food stalls in and around Psar Leu (Map p187; 7 Makara St; h7am-9pm). The vendors Invito ASIAN $$ across the street, next to the Kampot taxis, (Map p190; Serendipity Beach Rd; mains US$4.50- are open 24 hours. 10.50; h10am-10pm; W) The Thai and Khmer dishes coming out of the kitchen here are among Serendipity Beach Rd’s best. Splash Dao of Life VEGAN $ (Map p185; Ekareach St; mains US$3.50-6; hnoon- out on the nium tre salmon (salmon in a 9pm Tue-Sun; Wv) S This rooftop cafe, full mango sauce) or tuck into their Panang cur- of hammocks and recycled furniture, dishes ry or fish amok. There’s also a range of pas- up creative and tasty vegan meals. Its vegie ta and meaty options such as rib-eye steak if burger (made from sweet potato and black you’re not after Asian flavours. beans) is particularly good, or tuck into healthy options such as spiralised zucchini So INTERNATIONAL $$ linguine. It has movie nights every Wednes- (Map p190; Serendipity Beach Rd; mains US$4-10; day and regularly host social projects with h8am-10pm; W) So is renowned for serving local community involvement. up some of Serendipity’s tastiest cuisine. Come for dinner when the candles come Starfish Bakery & Café CAFE $ out, the menu changes and the top chef is in (Map p187; www.starfishcambodia.org; off 7 Makara action. Specialities include wasabi prawns St; sandwiches US$2.50-4.50; h7am-6pm; Wv) and baked scallops in wine sauce. Early S This relaxing, NGO-run garden cafe spe- diners benefit from two courses for US$5 cialises in filling Western breakfasts, baked So u th C oas t PESairhteaiannhgoSuikhvainlol eu k P r o v i nc e between 5pm and 6.30pm. cakes and tarts, and healthy, innovative sandwiches heavy on Mexican and Middle Marco Polo ITALIAN $$ Eastern flavours. Sitting down for coffee (Map p190; Thnou St; mains US$3-8; h11am-10pm; W) Some of the best Italian food around is here on the shady terrace is a peaceful re- prieve from Sihanoukville’s hustle. Income created by the Italian owner and chef of Mar- goes to sustainable development projects. co Polo. The pasta dishes are perfectly al den- te and the thin-crust pizzas emerging from the wood-fired oven are divine. Espresso Kampuchea CAFE $ (Map p187; Boray Kamakor St; mains US$2-4; h8am-5pm) Espresso Kampuchea is hid- Taj Mahal INDIAN $$ den down a nondescript side street in Si- (Map p190; 23 Mithana St; curries US$3-10; h7am-9pm; W) Curry-craving British expats hanoukville centre but serious caffeine aficionados should definitely make the trip rave about the food here. Selecting bespoke here. Owner Sophal personally sources her dishes can add up to an expensive spread, making the thalis (set meals, US$4 to $7) a coffee from Laos and serves up excellent double-shot cappuccinos and espresso. particularly good deal. There’s a small menu of baguettes and fried Olive & Olive MEDITERRANEAN $$ noodles. (Map p190; %086 283151; Serendipity Beach Rd; Cabbage Farm Restaurant CAMBODIAN $ mains US$7-13; h7am-10pm) A pinch of Greek cuisine, a touch of Turkish influence and (Map p187; small/large mains 8000r/15,000r; h11am-10pm) Known to locals as Chom Ka swags of Italian favourites are on the menu Spey, this restaurant gets rave reviews for its here. There’s plenty of pasta, seafood and steaks, but most people order the wood-fired seafood and spicy seasonings. An authentic Khmer dining experience. A sign in English pizzas, which are ridiculously huge. on Sereypheap St points the way. Mick & Craig’s INTERNATIONAL $$ Gelato Italiano ICE CREAM $ (Map p190; www.mickandcraigs.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; mains US$4-7; h7am-10pm; W) This (Map p187; St 108; gelato per scoop US$1; h8am- 9pm; W) Run by students from Don Bosco long-running guesthouse and restaurant Hotel School (p192), this cafe specialises in serves up classic comfort food from around the globe. Indian meals are just US$6, while gelatos (Italian ices) in a dizzying array of fla- vours, and also serves various coffee drinks Thursday and Friday barbecue nights in- and light meals in a bright, airy space. clude a rack of ribs.
196 Samudera Supermarket SUPERMARKET $ Papa Pippo ITALIAN $$ (Map p187; 64 7 Makara St; h6am-10pm) Good (Map p194; www.papapippo.com; Otres 1; mains selection of fruit, vegies and imported food US$5-7; h9am-9.30pm; W) Located on the brands, including European cheeses and beachfront Papa Pippo brings Italian flair wine. to Otres. Their homemade pasta is some of the best on the coast and there are plenty of oChez Claude FRENCH $$ regional specialities from Emelia-Romagna (Map p185; www.claudecambodge.com; above 2 Thnou St; mains US$5-15; h7am-11pm; W) Dou (where the owners hail from) on the menu. Dou and Claude are your hosts at this all- Shin JAPANESE $$ (Map p194; Otres 1; mains US$6-9; h9am-4am) wood lookout perched high above Sokha On the beachfront, Shin is all about sand- Beach with panoramic views and outstand- ing French, Vietnamese and Cambodian between-your-toes dining while sipping a cocktail and munching on freshly prepared cuisine, especially seafood. Time your visit sushi. Later in the evening a bar atmosphere for sunset to see Sihanoukville’s twinkling lights turn on. Access is via an innovative takes over – if you’re up for a late-night drink in Otres, this is the place to be. tractor-pulled cable car. Holy Cow INTERNATIONAL $$ 6 Drinking & Nightlife (Map p187; 83 Ekareach St; mains US$2.50-7; h8.30am-11pm; Wv) As well as solid com- There’s no shortage of venues in which to fort food such as pasta, burgers and shep- quaff locally brewed Angkor Beer, available herd’s pie, this funky cafe-restaurant dishes on draught for as little as US$0.50. Many of up bagels with cream cheese, sandwiches on the hostels on Serendipity Beach Rd have So u th C oas t DPS irheianankhoi nSugikh&vainNloli geuhktPlri foev i nc e homemade bread and a good selection of lively bars, including Monkey Republic v egie options. The menu includes two vegan (p189) (happy hour 6pm to 9pm), Big Easy desserts, both involving chocolate. (p189) (sport and live music) and Utopia (Map p190; cnr Serendipity Beach Rd & Mithona St; 5 Otres Beach h24hr), with regular US$0.25 beer promo- tions: yes, that does equal 20 beers for US$5. Mom’s Kitchen CAMBODIAN $ (Map p194; Otres 1; mains US$1.50-2.50; h8am- Occheuteal Beach is lined with beach- 7pm) Plonk yourself down on a streetside seat shack bars but the scene here seems to attract here and dig into cheap and cheerful rice a fair number of sex-tourists sofemale trav- and noodle dishes cooked by the ladies in the ellers may find this area too sleazy. Hit the little store behind. Nothing fancy – just fresh bar-restaurant of Above Us Only Sky (p191) and tasty Khmer home cooking. and the other Serendipity Beach resorts for a more laid-back scene. Off the beach, the bars oChez Paou INTERNATIONAL $$ at Coolabah Resort (p189) and Chochi Gar- (Map p194; Otres 1; mains US$5-8, khmer specials den (p189) both have a friendly vibe. US$15-22; h7am-10pm; W) This is fine dining Otres style – right on the beach. The menu The bar courts of Golden Lions Plaza, at contains a good selection of steaks, pasta and the top of Serendipity Beach Rd, are mostly burgers, but it’s the Khmer specials (order in heavy on hostesses and light on atmosphere. advance) of sting ray cooked on embers with A few long-standing regular bars remain fresh Kampot pepper, prawns flambéed in amid the hostess bars of Victory Hill, but the pastis, and crabs in two different ways that overall impression is Sinville rather than the makes this place really stand out. beach vibe of Serendipity. For relaxed sunset drinks with plenty of sand-between-the-toes appeal, Otres Beach can’t be beaten. Mushroom Point INTERNATIONAL $$ La Rhumerie BAR (Map p194; Otres 1; mains $3.50-12; h8am-10pm) (Map p190; Serendipity Beach Rd; h6pm-2am) Mushroom Point’s breakfasts are a winner Pull up a bar stool at La Rhumerie for sal- featuring homemade baguettes with mango sa music and yummy rum infused with jam and homemade muesli. Later in the day ingredients such as Kampot pepper and gin- their pizzas (with original topping combina- ger. We’re not big fans of their weird blue tions) and barbecued seafood plates get plau- back-lighting, but we’re more than a tad dits from travellers. There’s an excellent wine partial to the coffee-infused rum. Not a rum list to boot. fan? They whip up mean cocktails as well.
197 Maybe Later BAR at least six) or on large flat-screen TVs (for smaller groups). Has cosy satellite chairs (Map p190; Serendipity Beach Rd; h5pm-2am) and powerful air-con. This popular little Mexican taqueria that doubles as a late-night bar serves top mar- gheritas and some refined tequilas for those Galaxy Cinema CINEMA who prefer sips to shots. It’s a civilised escape (Map p190; %017 721677; Mithona St; tickets US$3; h11am-1pm) Regular screenings at 7pm or from the beachside party scene. you can rent it out for private viewings. Led Zephyr BAR 7 Shopping (Map p190; Serendipity Beach Rd; h7am-mid- night) Sihanoukville’s premier live-music venue, the house band (and friends from Funky restaurant Holy Cow (opposite) sells time to time) are rockin’ here most nights. some fashionable clothing upstairs. Covers include many of the big anthems Tapang HANDICRAFTS from the ’60s to ’80s, with a bit of Chili Pep- (Map p190; www.mloptapang.org; Serendipity Beach Rd; h10am-8pm) S Run by a local pers thrown in for good measure. NGO that works with at-risk children, this Sessions BAR shop sells good-quality bags, scarves and (Map p190; Occheuteal Beach; h5pm-1am) The T-shirts made by street kids (and their fam- music selection makes Sessions the top sundowner bar on Occheuteal Beach. The ilies) so that they can attend school instead of peddling on the beach. crowd of expats and backpackers assembled usually lingers well into the evening before Starfish HANDICRAFTS the hard-core partiers move on to the late- (Map p187; www.starfishcambodia.org; off 7 Maka- So u th C oas t PESnirhteaaenrhotSauiikhnvaminleolneutk P r o v i nc e ra St; h7am-6pm) S On the premises of the night venues. bakery of the same name, the silks and other JJ’s Playground BAR gifts sold here support a sustainable liveli- (Map p190; Occheuteal Beach; h6pm-6am) For a hood for poor local families. while now JJ’s has been the go-to spot for those seeking late-night debauchery. The Q&A BOOKS scene here is pretty much summed up by (Map p190; Mithona St; h7.30am-7.30pm) An inviting secondhand bookshop behind Oc- their tag line ‘let’s get wasted’. Expect shots, cheuteal Beach with 8000 titles in more loud techno, a fire show or two, and a lot of chaos. And don’t say we didn’t warn you than 20 languages, plus a small cafe. about the toilets. Mr Heinz BOOKS Reggae Bar BAR (Map p187; 219 Ekareach St; h9am-6pm) Stocks thousands of books in 57 varieties… well not (Map p190; Thnou St; h5pm-1am) It has more quite, but at least 10 languages. Marley on the walls than we’ve seen in quite some time (owner Dell is an avid collector) and the clientele diligently pay homage in 88 Information the most appropriate way available. Most guesthouses and hotels offer free wi-fi, as 3 Entertainment do the majority of cafes, restaurants and bars. There are also a few shops on Serendipity Beach Otres Market LIVE MUSIC Rd and on Ekareach St that have public internet terminals. (Map p194; www.otresmarket.com; Otres Village; hnoon-9pm Sat Nov-Apr) Located on Otres Sihanoukville’s banks – all with ATMs – are in Village’s estuary, this wooden shack, known the city centre along Ekareach St. There are as ‘the barn’, is a live-music venue every plentiful standalone ATMs along Serendipity Saturday during high season. Vendors have Beach Rd and a couple on Otres 1 at Otres Beach. food and craft stalls while DJ’s and bands Ana Travel (Map p190; % 034-933929; take to the stage from around 4pm. Look Serendipity Beach Rd; h 8am-10pm) Handles out for their special events – in the past Cambodia visa extensions and arranges Viet- they’ve hosted top local bands such as Cam- nam visas the same day. bodian Space Project. ANZ Royal Bank (Map p187; 215 Ekareach St; h 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM Top Cat Cinema CINEMA 24hr) Canadia Bank (Map p187; 197 Ekareach St; (Map p190; %012 790630; Serendipity Beach Rd; h 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM tickets US$3.50; h11am-3am) Shows films on 24hr) an 8m high-definition screen (for groups of
So u th C oas t GPS irehetatanhi noSguikhTvahinelroleeu k& PArwoavyi nc e198 At night, travellers (especially women) should CT Clinic (Map p187; % 081 886666, 034- avoid walking alone along dark, isolated beaches 936666; 47 Boray Kamakor St; h emergencies and roads. 24hr) The best medical clinic in town. Can administer rabies shots, and antivenin in the The currents off Occheuteal can be deceptively event of a snake bite. strong, especially during the wet season. Post Office (Map p187; 19 7 Makara St; h7am- 5pm) 88 Getting There & Away Tourist Information Centre (Map p190; 14 Mithona St; h 9am-11.30am & 2-5pm Mon- National Highway 4 (NH4), which links Sihan- Sat) Don’t expect much out of Sihanoukville’s oukville to Phnom Penh (230km), is in excellent tourist information centres. The best is this one condition, but because of heavy truck traffic just off Occheuteal Beach. It has brochures and and the prevalence of high-speed overtaking on can help you with hotel reservations. blind corners, this is one of Cambodia’s most dangerous highways; it’s doubly dicey around DANGERS & ANNOYANCES dusk and at night. Theft is a problem on the beaches (especially Occheuteal Beach) so leave valuables in your NH3 to Kampot (105km) and NH48 to Koh room. It’s often children who do the deed, some- Kong (220km) and the Thailand border (230km) times in conjunction with adults. Arriving in a are also in good shape. team, one or more will distract you while another lifts whatever valuables are lying on your towel. AIR Or they’ll strike when you’re out swimming. Sihanoukville International Airport has one daily direct flight to Phnom Penh and another to Siem You’ll probably tire of the steady stream of Reap from US$115 one way. Both routes are beggars, many of them children or amputees, on operated by Cambodia Angkor Airlines (% 023 Occheuteal Beach. NGO M’lop Tapang, which ex- 6660330; www.cambodiaangkorair.com). ists to improve the welfare of street kids, advises you never give money or food to children begging. The airport is 15km east of town, just off the NH4. A taxi to/from the airport costs about As in Phnom Penh, drive-by bag snatchings US$20. Figure on US$5 one way for a moto; occasionally happen and are especially danger- US$10 for a remork. ous when you’re riding a moto. Hold your shoulder bags tightly in front of you, especially at night. BOAT The road between Otres and Sihanoukville is Sihanoukville is the gateway to Cambodia’s considered especially risky after dark, so arrange southern islands. Only Koh Rong and Koh Rong a remork or moto via your guesthouse if staying in Sanloem have scheduled public ferry services. this area, and not just a random stranger in town. Transport to other islands is by day-trip boats or on private boats owned by the resorts. BUS SERVICES FROM SIHANOUKVILLE DESTINATION DURATION PRICE COMPANIES FREQUENCY (HR) (US$) Bangkok 14 28 Rith Mony, Virak Buntham (night) 8.15am, 9.15am, 7pm Battambang 12 17 Capitol Tour, Rith Mony, Virak 7 services 7am-2.15pm, 7pm Buntham (night) Kampot 2 5-6 Champa Mekong Travel (book 7.30am, 11.30am, 1.30pm, (minivan) through Ana Travel), Kampot 3.30pm 2¼ 7-8 Tours & Travel Kep (minivan) Champa Mekong Travel (book 7.30am, 11.30am, 1.30pm, 4½ 8 through Ana Travel), Kampot 3.30pm Koh Kong 4½ 5-11 Tours & Travel Phnom Penh Rith Mony, Virak Buntham 6 services 7.45am-2.45pm 4 10 Capitol Tour, Giant Ibis, GST, regular 7am-2.30pm Phnom Penh Phnom Penh Sorya, Rith Mony (minivan) 12 13-17 Virak Buntham 6 services 7.45am-2.45pm Siem Reap GST, Rith Mony, Virak Buntham 6 services 7am-12.30pm, 8pm (night)
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