199 SINS OF COMMISSION, SINS OF OMISSION At Sihanoukville’s bus station, only members of the official ‘motodup association’ are allowed to pick up arriving passengers (independent drivers sent to fetch someone must show their charge’s name). As a result, you may be quoted inflated prices for onward local transport. Bargaining is usually futile – if you don’t agree to the set price (usually 8000r to the beaches) no one else will take you. You can try walking out to the street, but there’s not a whole lot of traffic in this part of town. You may also have trouble shaking the persistent driver the cartel has assigned you according to a rotation system. Confrontations between independents and cartel drivers sometimes develop. The situation with remorks – ideal for travel with a big pack – is similar. The set price for remorks to the Serendipity area is US$6. Many guesthouses pay US$2 to moto drivers who bring them customers, but some places pay drivers far higher sums – US$4 or even US$5 – to send custom their way, so if you’ve just arrived, getting your moto guy to take you where you want may turn into a battle of wills. If your chosen hostelry is one that won’t pay up, don’t be surprised to hear that it’s closed, has contaminated water or is ‘full of prostitutes’. Ferry companies tend to come and go. The two Minivans to Kampot and Kep can be booked So u th C oas t PGS irehetatanhi noSguikhAvarinoloul enudk P r o v i nc e main companies (at the moment) servicing through Ana Travel (p197). Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem are Speed Ferry Cambodia (Map p190; www.speedferry Most bus departures leave from the company cambodia.com; Koh Rong Dive Centre, Seren- terminals on Ekareach St and stop at the bus sta- dipity Beach Rd; return ticket US$26) and TBC tion (Map p185; Mittapheap Kampuchea Soviet Speed Boat (Map p190; % 088 781 1711; www. St) on the way out of town. Most bus companies tbckohrongspeedboat.com; Serendipity Beach will include free pick up from the Serendipity and Rd; return ticket US$20). central Sihanoukville area. Capitol Tour (Map p187; % 034-934042; 169 Speed Ferry Cambodia has sailings to Koh Rong Ekareach St) Sanloem and Koh Rong at 8am and 3pm, and Giant Ibis (Map p190; % 089 999818; www. another departure only to Koh Rong at 11am. TBC giantibis.com; Thnou St) Speed Boat leaves for Koh Rong Sanloem and Koh GST (Map p187; % 015 995950; Ekareach St) Rong at 10am, 1pm and 3.30pm. Phnom Penh Sorya (Map p187; % 034-933888; 236 Ekareach St) Of the two companies, Speed Ferry Cambodia Rith Mony (Map p187; % 093 465858; Ekareach tends to be the more reliable but sailing sched- St) ules of both tend to change regularly. Ticket Virak Buntham (Map p187; % 016 754358; prices drop substantially from June to October. Ekareach St) Both services leave from Serendipity Beach Rd SHARE TAXI pier, although in adverse sea conditions depar- Cramped share taxis (US$6 per person or ture is moved to the ferry dock at Sihanoukville US$45 per car) and minibuses (15,000r) to Port (7km north of the Serendipity Beach area). Phnom Penh depart from the bus station until about 8pm. Avoid the minibuses if you value A cheaper option is the cargo ‘slow boat’ ferry things like comfort and your life. Hotels can that usually chugs from the ferry dock at Sihan- arrange taxis to Phnom Penh for US$50 to oukville Port to Koh Rong Sanloem and Koh Rong US$60 (about four hours). Share taxis to Kam- twice daily (8am and 2pm, return US$10, three pot (US$5, 1½ hours) leave mornings only from a hours). Note that safety isn’t a top priority – to taxi park (Map p187; 7 Makara St ) opposite Psar put it mildly – on this boat. Slow boat tickets can Leu. This taxi park and the bus station are good be purchased from most travel agencies around places to look for share taxis to Koh Kong or the Serendipity Beach Rd. Thai border. If nobody’s sharing, expect to pay US$45 to US$60 to the Thai border. BUS All of the major bus companies have frequent 8 Getting Around connections to Phnom Penh from early morning until at least 2pm. Capital Tour and Rith Mony are TO/FROM THE BUS STATION the cheapest. Giant Ibis runs a ‘luxury’ service, Arriving in Sihanoukville, buses stop at the bus complete with hostess and wi-fi, at 7.30am, station then some, if you’re lucky, continue to 9.30am and 1.30pm. their central terminals. Prices to the Serendipity Beach area from the station are fixed at a pricey Bookings made through hotels and travel agencies incur a commission. Most travel agents only work with two or three bus companies, so ask around if you need to leave at a different time than what’s being offered.
200 So u th C oas t RSP iregaehamthsNSa&ithAiaocnntoai vuliktPiaPerrsko v i nc e or arranged at the Ream National Park US$2 for a moto and US$6 for a remork, so con- Headquarters (%016 767686, 012 875096; tinue to the centre if possible and get a cheaper, NH4; h7am-5pm) itself, opposite Sihan- shorter remork ride from there. oukville Airport entrance. When booking directly with the park HQ, it’s best (but not BICYCLE obligatory) to phone ahead. The income Bicycles can be hired from many guesthouses for generated goes to help protect the park. about US$2 a day. To get to some deserted beaches on your MOTO & REMORK own, drive south from the park HQ and the Sihanoukville’s moto drivers are notorious for airport for about 9km along a sealed road un- aggressively hassling passers-by and, more than til you get to Ream Naval Base. Jog left around anywhere else in Cambodia, shamelessly trying to the base and follow the dirt roads to a series of overcharge, so haggle hard (with a smile) over the long white beaches lined with casuarina trees. price before setting out. Road access to Koh Sampoach Beach is pos- sible by taking an immediate left-hand turn A moto should cost about US$1 from the centre off the Ream National Park road when leaving to Serendipity, Occheuteal and Victory Beaches, NH4. If you pass the airport entrance, you’ve and Victory Hill; remorks around US$2. Remorks gone too far. Follow this major road for about from Serendipity to Victory Hill/Beach should 12km and you will eventually arrive at a small cost US$3, but drivers ask US$5 for this trip. beachside restaurant on Koh Sampoach. Motorbikes can be rented from many guest- Ream National Park’s territory includes houses for US$5 to US$7 a day. The police some- two islands with some fine snorkelling, Koh times ‘crack down’ on foreign drivers. Common Thmei (p202) and – just off Vietnam’s Phu violations: no driver’s licence, no helmet, no wing Quoc Island – Koh Seh, which is best ac- mirrors and, everybody’s favourite, driving with cessed from Koh Thmei. the lights on during the day. Hiring a moto (includ- Boat Trips ing the driver) for the day costs US$10 plus petrol; Popular ranger-led boat trips head through a remork is about US$20 a day. the mangrove channels of the Prek Toeuk Sap Estuary. These leave from the Prek Ream National Park Toeuk Sap ranger station, which is located about 3km east of Ream National Park Head- Just 15km east of Sihanoukville, Ream Na- quarters next to a major bridge on NH4 – the rangers at HQ will help you get there and ar- tional Park (ឧទ្យានជាតរិ ាម) offers trekking range for a boat to be waiting. opportunities in primary forest, invigorat- From the Prek Toeuk Sap ranger station ing boat trips through coastal mangroves it’s a one-hour boat ride (US$35 return for and long stretches of unspoilt beach. This is one to three persons) to the fishing village an easy escape for those looking to flee the of Ta Ben. Full-day trips (US$50 per group) crowds of Sihanoukville. The park is home to continue another hour east to the village of breeding populations of several regionally and Andoung Toeuk. From here a path leads 25 globally endangered birds of prey, including minutes through the jungle to the park’s fin- the Brahminy kite, grey-headed fish eagle and est beach, Koh Sampoach Beach, which is white-bellied sea eagle: look for them soaring also nicknamed the Chinese beach as Chinese over Prek Toeuk Sap Estuary. Endangered developers have the concession for this area. birds that feed on the mudflats include the Jungle Walks lesser adjutant, milky stork and painted stork. Jungle walks led by rangers are easy to ar- range, but hiking unaccompanied is not al- Despite its protected status, Ream is en- lowed. Two-hour walks in the forest behind dangered by planned tourism development, the Ream National Park Headquarters cost especially along its coastline. By visiting, you US$6 per person. Four- to six-hour treks can demonstrate that the park, in its natu- going further into the park’s mountainous ral state, is not only priceless to humanity interior cost US$10 per person. but also a valuable economic resource. Ma- jor roads have been bulldozed through the 88 Getting There & Around heart of the park to access the beaches and a main road will eventually connect NH4 with Sihanoukville travel agencies offer day trips to Otres Beach directly via this route. Ream National Park for about US$20, including a boat ride, a jungle walk and lunch. 1 Sights & Activities Hiking and boating trips through Ream National Park can either be booked before- hand with a tour operator in Sihanoukville
Ream National Park is a breeze to get to – just 201 follow NH4 east from Sihanoukville to the airport turnoff, which is 15km from the Cambrew brewery ISLAND KNOW-HOW So u th C oas t GTKhbeatetlSioCnhughtTahhyeerCrnaesI&sclaAadwnaedsys at the junction of NH4 and Wat Leu Rd. Go right and drive 500m to the park headquarters. ¨¨There are no banks or ATMs on any of the islands. Bring enough cash. A return trip from Sihanoukville by moto should cost US$7 to US$15; a remork US$15 to US$20. ¨¨Don’t forget to pack insect repellent. The price depends on how well the driver speaks The sand flies can be ferocious. English and how long you stay. ¨¨It’s not a bad idea to come equipped Kbal Chhay Cascades with a decent topical antiseptic. Insect bites can quickly turn into tropical Thanks to their appearance in Pos Keng Kong ulcers if scratched. A torch (flashlight) (The Giant Snake; 2000), one of the most suc- is also useful. cessful Cambodian films of the post-civil war ¨¨When leaving, if you have a booked era, these cascades (ទឹកធ្លា ក់ក្បាលឆាយ; onward transport connections from Sihanoukville, don’t take the last admission US$1, picnicking platforms per day 5000r) possible ferry/boat. Sailing times can on the Prek Toeuk Sap River draw huge num- be delayed or cancelled at short notice bers of domestic tourists. due to sea conditions. From the parking area, a rough log toll- technicolour sunsets and the patter of rain- bridge (locals 300r, tourists 500r) leads to drops on thatch as you slumber. It seems too several miniature sandy coves and some good to last, so enjoy it while it does. perilous rapids. The best spot for a safe, refreshing dip (for children as well as 88 Getting There & Away adults) is across another bridge, on the far bank of a cool, crystal-clear tributary of the The logical jumping-off point for any of the main brown-tinted main river. Not much water habitable islands between the Koh Kong Con- flows here in the dry season. servation Corridor and Ream National Park is Sihanoukville. To get here from Sihanoukville, head east along NH4 for 5.5km from the Cambrew Scheduled boat services link Sihanoukville with junction then, at the sign, head north along Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem while other a wide dirt road for 8km. By moto/remork a islands, such as Koh Ta Kiev, can be reached by return trip should cost US$7/15. private boats, usually owned by the resort you’re visiting. THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS The Koh Sdach Archipelago is most easily For many a traveller Cambodia’s southern accessed from the four-lane highway that cuts islands are the tropical Shangri-La they’ve through Botum Sakor National Park. been seeking – as yet untouched by the mega-resorts that have sprouted like mush- Koh Kong is the base for visiting Cambodia’s rooms across Thailand’s cachet of islands. largest island, Koh Kong Island. Many of the islands have been tagged for ma- jor development by well-connected foreign Koh Ta Kiev កោះតាគ�ៀវ investors but, thanks to the global recession, the big boys have been slow to press go, pav- If your beach break perfection is about log- ing the way for DIY development to move in ging off and slothing out, this little island off with rustic bungalow resorts targeting inde- Ream National Park ticks all the right box- pendent travellers. es. Despite the fact that the island has been leased to French and Chinese property com- That’s not to say that all small-scale devel- panies – and a proper road has recently been opment is fine. Koh Rong, in particular, has sliced through the jungle interior signalling changed dramatically in the past couple of major development may not be far off – for years due to unchecked construction in the the moment Koh Ta Kiev has a handful of Koh Tuch area. But for the most part, Cam- budget-friendly, basic digs with serious chill- bodia’s islands are still paradise the way you out factor. imagined it: endless crescents of powdered, Most of the beach bungalow accommo- sugary-soft sand, hammocks swaying in the dation is along Long Beach, a white-sand breeze, photogenic fishing villages on stilts, beach on the west side. Various tracks branch off from here through the forest for those who want to explore, including one to
202 Resort (%097 737 0400; www.koh-thmei-resort. an even more secluded beach on the south coast. Unfortunately rubbish regularly wash- com; bungalows US$35, f US$60) S. It’s a real es up on the island, so don’t expect pristine gem with super-simple bungalows, which swaths of sand. use solar-panels and biofuel for electricity, Koh Ta Kiev, along with Koh Russei and that are just right for the setting. The resort smaller uninhabited islands in the area, ap- sits on a great beach, and you can easily walk pears on most island-hopping itineraries out to several more, plus go sea-kayaking or of Sihanoukville. Day trips run from US$12 snorkelling (visibility varies). Khmer meals to US$15 depending on whether you launch are tasty and cost US$6. from Otres Beach or Serendipity Beach. Getting here requires private transport to 4 Sleeping the mainland fishing village of Koh Kchhang; turn off the NH4 in the town of Bat Kokir, There’s no wi-fi at any of Koh Ta Kiev’s ac- about 12km east of Sihanoukville airport. commodation, electricity is limited (bring a From Koh Kchhang the resort is a 1¼ hour torch/flashlight) and most places only have boat ride (six-passenger boat US$15). Koh rudimentary shared bathrooms (bucket Thmei Resort can organise pick-ups from Si- showers and squat toilets). hanoukville, as well as the boat ride. Ten103 Treehouse Bay BUNGALOW $ (%097 943 7587; www.ten103cambodia.com; Koh Ta Kiev; hammock/dm US$5/7, hut without bath- Koh Rong កោះរុង៉ room US$20-25) Unplug, unwind, de-stress – If you’re here to party, you’re in the right place. A few years back, Koh Rong was little So u th C oas t STKhol eeheSRpoui nusgtshe ie rn Is l ands Ten103 is a beachfront backpacker bolt hole more than a jungle-clad wilderness rimmed that dishes up simple beach living the way it used to be. Stilted open-air ‘treehouse’ huts by swaths of sugary-white sand, with a few beach-hut resorts speckling the shore have sea views, while the open-air dorm and around tiny Koh Tuch village. Today the Koh palm-thatch hammock shelters provide even more basic back-to-nature options. Book Tuch village street-strip that leads out from the pier is a bottleneck of back-to-back back- transport on their boat (US$13 return) from packer crash pads, restaurants, and hole- Otres one day in advance. in-the-wall bars blasting competing music. Look, you’ll either love it or hate it, but for The Last Point BUNGALOW $ young travellers who descend off the ferry (%088 502 6930; www.lastpointisland.com; Koh Ta Kiev; dm/tent US$4/6, bungalows US$15-20) The in droves, Koh Rong (particularly Koh Tuch beach) is a vital stop on any Southeast Asia Last Point sits in splendid isolation on a sandy party itinerary. stretch of Koh Ta Kiev’s south coast, a 40- minute walk from the island’s other accom- It’s still possible to escape the mayhem though. The further you walk away from the modation options. There’s a variety of small, village, the more sedate it gets. The evening sweet palm-thatch bungalows to play out Robinson Crusoe dreams, as well as a breezy frog chorus overpowers the drifting bass from the late-night raves, phosphorescence open-air dorm just steps from the sand. shimmers in the sea and the island’s natural charms of head-turning beaches, backed by lush forest interior, are clear to see. Koh Russei កោះឫស្សី Koh Rong’s full-tilt surge into tourism Less than an hour by boat from Sihan- is not without problems that threaten the oukville, tiny Koh Russei (Bamboo Island) was cleared of most resorts in preparation pristine environment that attracted trav- ellers here in the first place. Many hastily for a high-end development – a five-star Alila knocked-up hostels and bars don’t have Hotels (www.alilahotels.com) resort – that is still in the construction phase. proper septic systems, with waste running directly into the sea, and the sand nearest Most boat day trips from Sihanoukville call the village can become strewn with rub- in at Koh Russei as part of their itinerary. bish. The threat of even bigger development also hangs over the island with a ring-road cutting through the interior and the initial Koh Thmei កោះថី្ម planning stages of a big resort on beautiful The large island of Koh Thmei is part of Ream National Park. There’s only one resort Long Beach now materialising. If you want to hang out with fellow travel- on the island, German-managed Koh Thmei lers, hit an all-night rave (or three) and crash
203 out on the sand during the day, Koh Rong’s sunbathing and swimming. There are sim- the spot. Those looking for a more relaxed ple resorts at the north and south end of this vibe would be wise to pick a bungalow- beach, with virtually nothing in between. resort well away from Koh Tuch village or to During our last visit, one of the basic look at Koh Rong Sanloem instead. resorts on the southern end was being knocked down to make way for a new ho- r Beaches tel construction, so expect part of this sandy sweep to see more development in the Koh Tuch Beach BEACH future. The wide sweep of Koh Tuch Beach extends for about 1km northeast from Koh Tuch vil- lage pier and gets lovelier the further out 4km Beach BEACH you go. Walk towards the headland (near Treehouse Bungalows) for white sand and a Past the Koh Tuch Beach headland (near more mellow scene. Treehouse Bungalows) is 4km Beach, where you can walk at least another hour along the sand and encounter little more than hermit crabs. A clutch of small bungalow re- Long Beach BEACH sorts are moving in but it’s still very peace- On the back (west) side of the island is Koh Rong’s finest beach, a 7km stretch of drop- ful. Further on, 4km Beach runs into Nature dead gorgeous white sand, dubbed Long Beach; another worthy white-sand stretch. Beach (also called Sok San Beach after the Activities 2fishing village at its northern end). Longtail boats head here from Koh Tuch pier, depos- Longtail boat day trips to Long Beach iting sun-seekers on the sand for a day of (with snorkelling, fishing and swimming Koh Rong So u th C oas t TKBhoe aehcSRhooeunstgh e rn Is l ands e# 0 1 km 6666A 0 0.5 mile 666446446661 B C D 14 15 ÿ# 1 11 ÿ# 2 ÿ# 666464666444444666444444666446446442ÿ#12 ÿ#8 3 Ù#2 Koh Tuch ÿ#16 Beach Koh Tuch 18 ú# TBC Speed Village 17 f#Boat ÿ# 9 ÿ# Ø#5ú##p7 f# 10ÿ# Speed Ferry 13 Cambodia Sok San Beach 6464 66644644644Ù#36 Ø# 644666444444BLeoancgh Bungalows Police (2.7km) Beach D Ù# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles 4 4km Beach Ù# 1 66464666646464 66Ù#BKeoahchTuch 3 f# 66664464 66f# Pagoda Island D Sihanoukville 4 Police 4 Ù# Beach 6666666A B C D Koh Rong See Enlargement DSanloem
204 Koh Rong Dive Center DIVING thrown in) are the main Koh Rong activity. Pretty much every place in Koh Tuch village (%034-934744; http://kohrong-divecenter.com; organises them for about US$10 per person. Koh Rong Pier) Koh Rong’s main dive centre For an adventurous day out packed full organises trips in the waters around both of scenery, it’s possible to organise a boat Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem. to Sangker village on the island’s east coast, then hire a moto driver to whiz you around Friends of Koh Rong VOLUNTEERING the island. Vagabonds can help organise this (about US$25 per person). (%096 552 0416; www.friendsofkohrong.org; Lo- It’s also viable to walk 1½ hours from the cal Pier, Koh Tuch village) S This grassroots main beach to Long Beach via a rigorous jun- NGO takes on qualified teachers (minimum gle track, but be aware that it involves scram- two-month commitment) to volunteer with bling and is definitely not flip-flops territory. its education programs. They also have vol- There’s good snorkelling around the unteer opportunities in community devel- island and resorts rent out gear for about opment and local health projects. They run US$5 per day. Several places hire sea kayaks regular beach clean-ups that travellers can for about US$5 per hour for a single kayak get involved in. (US$8 for a tandem). From Koh Tuch Beach, it’s a 30-minute paddle out to Pagoda Island, 4 Sleeping an idyllic islet topped by a wat, just offshore. During high season (particularly December High Point and January) Koh Rong’s accommodation fills up fast. This is compounded by the fact So u th C oas t KST hol eeheSRpooi nungtgh e rn Is l ands Rope Adventure ADVENTURE SPORTS that some backpacker crash pads don’t ac- cept advance bookings. If you’re nervous (%016 839993; www.high-point.asia; Koh Tuch about turning up on the island without a village; per person US$35; h9am-6pm) A collec- bed, it’s worthwhile to book a place for the tion of ziplines, swing bridges and walking first night and, once here, check out the rest cables take thrill-seekers on an adrena- of the hostel scene. Travellers with no bed line-packed, 400m-long journey through for the night during busy periods usually the forest canopy, not far from Koh Tuch. end up renting a hammock. Nearly all ac- Your ticket gets you unlimited access to the commodation has 24-hour electricity, wi-fi, course for the entire day. From April to Oc- mosquito nets and fans. Air-con is a rarity. tober, tickets are US$10 cheaper. Natural Lounge GUESTHOUSE $ (%069 541177; [email protected]; Koh Tuch; Koh Rong dm US$8, r with/without bathroom from US$30/20; W) A family-run calm oasis amid the Koh æ Sights Tuch hubbub with small, spotless, wood- 1 4km Beach.............................................C3 floored rooms set around a leafy courtyard. 2 Koh Tuch Beach.................................... B1 Downstairs there’s a couple of bijou en suite 3 Long Beach............................................A3 rooms with two double beds that you could 4 Police Beach..........................................A2 fit four people in if you don’t mind a squeeze. Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Bongs HOSTEL $ 5 Friends of Koh Rong .............................A2 (%093 924856; www.bongsguesthouse.com; Koh 6 High Point Rope Adventure.................A2 Tuch; r US$20; W) Bongs’ well looked-after 7 Koh Rong Dive Center..........................B2 wooden rooms (above the bar of the same name) are a great deal if you want to stay in ÿ Sleeping the centre of the action. All come with tiny 8 Bongs ..................................................... B1 but adequate bathrooms and guests get free 9 Dreamcatch Inn ....................................A2 water refills, tea and coffee. 10 Green Ocean Guesthouse ...................A2 11 Monkey Island ....................................... B1 Green Ocean Guesthouse HOSTEL $ 12 Nam Nam............................................... B1 (%096 916 9267; [email protected]; Koh 13 Natural Lounge .....................................A2 Tuch; dm US$8-10, d US$25; W) The recently 14 Paradise Bungalows............................. B1 renovated rooms with tiled floors here are 15 Treehouse Bungalows ......................... B1 some of the nicest, and most spacious, in 16 Vagabonds............................................. B1 Koh Tuch village. There’s a great communal balcony out front and the 12-bed dorm has ú Eating sea views. 17 Buffalo ....................................................B2 18 Koh Lanta............................................... A1 Loops Bar....................................... (see 9)
Vagabonds HOSTEL $ 205 (www.vagabondskohrong.com; Koh Tuch; dm US$5, popular Monkey Republic in Sihanoukville, r with shared bathroom US$10) Firstly, you don’t Monkey Island’s action revolves around its come here for the facilities. Bare-bones bamboo-and-thatch bar, which is always rooms and four-bed dorms (with lockers) jam-packed with backpackers. Some of the are made cheery by colourful murals. Vaga- basic bungalows can fit up to five people at bonds’ following is instead due to friendly a squeeze and come with hammocks on the staff and the fun vibe of the cafe downstairs, porches. which dishes up huge portions of comfort Sok San Beach Bungalows BUNGALOW $$ (%034-5000127; Soksan village, Long Beach; bun- food (US$3 to $5). Walk-ins only. galows US$20-25) You’re paying for the Long Dreamcatch Inn GUESTHOUSE $ Beach setting here. Bungalows are decided- ([email protected]; Koh Tuch; r with shared bathroom US$15; W) A more mellow ly rickety, electricity is limited and, it’s fair to say, amenities are few. But you’re far from alternative to most of the Koh Tuch village the hoopla of Koh Tuch and travellers look- offerings, Dreamcatch Inn has super-basic ing for a slice of old-school Koh Rong beach rooms leading onto a colourful terrace strung life will revel in the spartan solitude. with hammocks and swing chairs. Shared bathrooms have squat toilets. Walk-ins only. 5 Eating & Drinking Nam Nam GUESTHOUSE $ Both Bongs and Vagabonds are great places (Koh Tuch; r US$25; W) Fronted by a com- to relax with a beer and are often home to a munal terrace, the three rooms at this lively crowd. Bongs regularly has live music Khmer-managed place are among the most in the evening. spacious in town and come with decent So u th C oas t ETKahotehi nSRogoun&tghD re ri nnkIisnlgands bathrooms. It’s in a back alley off the beach During high season there are frequent all- strip but you’ll find the manager at their night parties on Police Beach, just south of restaurant next to Bong’s Bar. Walk-ins only. Koh Tuch village. Check out flyers around town for information. Police Beach is also oTreehouse Bungalows the main location for full moon parties. BUNGALOWS $$ Loops Bar INTERNATIONAL $ (%034-934744; www.treehouse-bungalows.com; Koh Tuch Beach; bungalows US$45-55, treehous- (Koh Tuch; mains US$2.50-5.50; h8am-11pm; W) Downstairs from Dreamcatch Inn is this cafe- es US$45-60; W) Nestled on a secluded cove bar decorated with recycled water bottles, about a 15-minute beach walk from Koh Tuch pier, Treehouse has more than a touch of the strung from the ceiling as pot plants. Break- fast options are stellar and include fruity fairy tale about it. Bungalow balconies are French toast with a tropical twist and coco- strung with seashells (nab B3 for great sea views), high-raised bungalow ‘treehouses’ nut muesli. Lunch and dinner feature decent Khmer options along with comfort food clas- have prime vistas, and the restaurant is set sics such as bangers and mash. Manager Te beside a natural reservoir with an organic garden out back. Even if you’re not staying puts on a fire-poi show every Saturday night. here, drop by to sample their delicious wood- Koh Lanta INTERNATIONAL $ fired pizza and Khmer seafood menu. (Koh Tuch; US$3-6; h7am-10pm) Named after the famous French Survivor show, which is Paradise Bungalows BUNGALOWS $$ filmed on Koh Rong, this place offers the best (%092 548883; www.paradise-bungalows.com; Koh Tuch Beach; bungalows US$35-100; W) Delightful- wood-fired pizzas on the island. ly rustic, bungalows here (in all shapes and Buffalo INTERNATIONAL $$ sizes) climb up the hill amid rambling jungle foliage. US$35 rooms are way up on the hill (Cambodia Speed Ferry Pier, Koh Tuch; mains US$7- 10; h8am-late; W) With a breezy pier position, while more expensive options are practically Buffalo tries to please everyone with a menu lapped by waves at high tide. The loungey res- taurant, with soaring palm-leaf panel roof and featuring everything from fajitas to pizza to gözleme (Turkish pancakes). Happy hour shoreline panorama, is a real highlight. (3pm to 5pm) heralds US$0.75 draught beer. Monkey Island BUNGALOW $$ 8 Information (%081 830992; www.monkeyisland-kohrong.com; Koh Tuch Beach; bungalows with bathroom US$35- Bring all the cash you think you’ll need with you. If 40, without bathroom US$30; W) Linked to the you do run out of money, Vagabonds has a useful money-lending service (10% fee).
206 to travel to make sure of a seat. Ticket prices drop from June to October. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Theft is becoming a problem on Koh Rong. Use During high season extra ferry times are usually lock-boxes if supplied in dorms, or leave valuables added. When sea conditions are bad (particularly in your accommodation’s safe. from June to October) ferries can be cancelled at short notice. In 2013 an American woman was murdered while hiking the jungle trail to Long Beach, and in If you’re travelling to a resort not on the island’s 2015 there was an attempted attack on a Japa- eastern side, book transport through the resort nese tourist. Travellers – both male and female – itself. should buddy up when walking in more isolated areas of the island, and on the beach late at night. 88 Getting There & Away Koh Rong Sanloem កោះរងុ ៉ សន្លឹម From Koh Tuch Speed Ferry Cambodia (www. speedferrycambodia.com; one way/return This horseshoe-shaped, 10km-long island is US$13/26) departs for Sihanoukville at 10am, many people’s ideal vision of island bliss. Koh noon and 4pm daily; and the TBC Speed Boat Rong Sanloem’s most popular destination is (% 088 7811711; www.tbckohrongspeedboat. Saracen Bay – a crescent-shaped sweep of com; one way/return US$12.50/$20) to Siha- white sand on the island’s east coast, lined noukville leaves at 10.30am, 1.30am and 4pm. by a row of small beach-bungalow resorts Both journeys take between 45 minutes to one backed by lush jungle. If that’s not isolated hour. If you don’t have a return ticket, you can enough though, the southwestern side of the buy one-way tickets at the ferry offices on the island (reached by walking trail or private Koh Tuch piers. If you have a return ticket, go to boat) is home to just a couple of secluded the relevant ferry office the day before you want D Koh Rong Sanloem e# 0 ASo u th C oas t TKGhoe tehtSRionougntgThhSeearrnnelIo&selAmawnadys0 666644666f# DB C 2 km Koh 1 mile Kong D D Koh Kong & Sihanoukville See Enlargement 200 m 0.1 miles 1 1 440 6666446660 ::: 7ÿ#666646662 :: 9 ÿ# 4 p# : : : Military M'Pai Bay Base 15 6 f# :: 2 ú# Ø# 6666Village ::: ÿ#14 : :: 6666666443 KOHRONG 3 6666SAMLOEM ÿ#13 16 444 44#û 66464464464464 63Ù# p##5f# Orchid 10 Resort ÿ# 2 Ù# SaBraacyen SBuenasceht ÿ# 4 12 ÿ# 4 Lazy Ù# ÿ# 11 D 66464444644464444644 6A Beach 8 1 Lighthouse C B
207 resorts, where the cares of the world seem a cursions. Tom at Coral Garden Dive Resort million miles away. is one of the best people to talk to about or- ganising fishing trips (US$30). Those looking for an alternative island experience can head to the village of M’Pai Cambodian Diving Group DIVING Bay at the island’s northern tip. There’s no ro- mantically photogenic white sands here (the (%088 685 6986; www.cambodiandiving.com; beach is a grainy-yellow hue), but the clutch M’Pai Bay; 2-dive package US$65, PADI Discover of budget guesthouses that have set up shop Scuba US$75, 3-day PADI Open Water US$345) S provide serious chill factor with a proper lo- Based in M’Pai Bay, these guys have expert cal vibe that will suit the more intrepid. knowledge of the surrounding underwater world that only comes from years of experi- 1 Sights & Activities ence diving here. As well as excellent one-day dive packages and a range of PADI courses, From Saracen Bay it’s an easy 25-minute they run longer three-day exploration dive walk to Lazy Beach (non-guests will need trips for experienced divers and are involved to buy a drink or meal at the resort restau- in local marine conservation efforts. rant to stay and admire the beach), and a 45-minute hike (sneakers necessary) to Sun- Coral Garden Dive Resort DIVING set Beach. There’s also a harder trail, taking about 1½ hours to the lighthouse on a hill (%088 611 5770; www.coraldivers.org; Saracen Bay; overlooking the ocean at the island’s extreme 2-dive package US$80,Discover Scuba 2-dive package southern tip, which is also a prime nesting US$95, 3-day PADI Open Water US$385) Master spot for sea eagles. Be aware that there are scuba-diver trainer Tom Mellon knows the soldiers stationed at the lighthouse and they dive sites around Koh Rong Sanloem and may ask you for a tip (US$1 is usually fine). Koh Rong like few others and guides highly recommended, professional dive excursions So u th C oas t SKT hoi gehhStRosoun&tghASceatrnnilvoIi tseilmeasnds If you want to explore the island interior for both absolute beginners and advanced di- further, talk to Gil (%088 379 6528), usually vers on a 12m catamaran. Two-dive packages based at Paradise Villas on Saracen Bay from stop at M’Pai Bay for a local lunch. Snorkellers around November to March. He can guide (US$25 for two locations) are also welcome. treks for between US$12 to $15 per person. Save Cambodian Marine Life VOLUNTEERING The Beach Resort’s (p208) activity cen- (%096 807 3236; www.savecambodianmarinelife. tre rents kayaks (US$10) and can organise com; M’Pai Bay; 1-week volunteer package US$250) guided kayaking trips and snorkelling ex- S This NGO works to protect the local reefs Koh Rong Sanloem surrounding Koh Rong Sanloem with ongo- ing projects including maintaining a coral æ Sights nursery and organising reef clean-up dives. 1 Lazy Beach ............................................B4 Volunteer packages include diving, shared 2 Saracen Bay ......................................... C4 accommodation and all meals. 3 Sunset Beach ........................................B4 4 Sleeping Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 4 Cambodian Diving Group ....................A2 Saracen Bay is the most developed beach 5 Coral Garden Dive Resort....................B3 with over a dozen small ‘resorts’ lining the 6 Save Cambodian Marine Life ..............B2 sand. Nearly all of Koh Rong Sanloem’s re- sorts have 24-hour electricity. Wi-fi is still a ÿ Sleeping rarity (and if available is sporadic at best). 7 Chill Inn...................................................A2 Most places offer healthily discounted rates 8 Cita Resort............................................ C4 for bungalows during June to October. 9 Easy Tiger ..............................................A2 Easy Tiger GUESTHOUSE $ 10 Green Blue Resort ............................... C4 (%096 915 3370; www.easytigerbungalows.com; 11 Lazy Beach ............................................B4 M’Pai Bay; dm/r/bungalow US$7.50/15/30) This 12 Secret Paradise.................................... C4 friendly guesthouse in M’Pai Bay village 13 The Beach Resort .................................B3 has plenty of home-spun appeal, thanks to 14 The Drift .................................................A2 its helpful owners. There’s simple dorms and small private rooms in the main build- ú Eating ing. Out back are sturdy basic bungalows 15 Fishing Hook..........................................A2 with large verandahs for those seeking more privacy. However, it’s the restaurant û Drinking & Nightlife 16 Good Vibz...............................................B3
208 Party Boat, whose day-trippers fill up the bar and communal feel that make this place a area most afternoons, which – depending on w inner. your outlook – will either be a major plus or minus to staying here. Chill Inn GUESTHOUSE $ (%016 824211; www.chillinncambodia.com; M’Pai Bay; dm US$7.50) The hammock-strung bar out front is M’Pai Bay’s laid-back night spot, while Green Blue Resort RESORT $$ (%096 725 0054; www.greenblueresort.com; Sar- the super-simple dorm provides all the basic acen Bay; dm US$10, bungalow US$65-80) Green dossing needs. A cracking spot for those who Blue has a delightfully homey feel with bun- favour kicked-back ambience over amenities. galows strung with pot plants and vines, some set back from the seafront amid a The Drift GUESTHOUSE $ well-tended garden. A small basic dorm out (%015 865388; www.facebook.com/thedriftsam loem; M’Pai Bay; dm/r US$8/15) A new player back caters for budgeteers. Electricity only in the evening. on the M’Pai Bay scene, The Drift has spick- and-span dorms and a couple of private oCita Resort rooms in a cute wooden house on the sand. RESORT $$$ (%096 261 2418; www.citaresort.com; Saracen There’s a good social vibe with home-cooked Bay; bungalow US$85-90) At the southern end meals (US$3) often eaten communally. of Saracen Bay, this intimate resort has just five beautifully conceived raised bungalows Lazy Beach RESORT $$ with upper-level bedrooms fronted by sea- (%017 456536; www.lazybeachcambodia.com; bungalows US$60) Alone on the southwest view balconies, open-air bathrooms and shaded hammock-strung lounging area be- So u th C oas t KETahotehi nSRogoun&tghDSrearinnnlkoIisnelgmands coast of Koh Rong Samloem, the 16 bun- low. The fantastic restaurant here dishes up galows at this idyllic getaway front one of the must stunning beaches you’ll find any- fresh pasta and other Italian specialities. where. They have balconies and hammocks Secret Paradise RESORT $$$ outside, and spiffy stone-floor bathrooms and duelling queen-size beds inside. The (www.secretparadiseresort.asia; Saracen Bay; bungalow US$100) Beach living with serious restaurant-common area is stocked with style – Secret Paradise has huge glass-door books and board games, making it a good fit for families. bungalows, featuring cane furniture and snazzy bathrooms, all with seafront veran- dahs. Service is impeccable and the restau- The Beach Resort RESORT $$ rant is strong on tasty Khmer cuisine. (%034-666 6106; www.thebeachresort.asia; Sara- cen Bay; dm US$7.50, bungalow with/without bath- 5 Eating & Drinking room US$35/25, deluxe US$50-85; W) This lively resort caters for the full gamut of budgets There are no separate restaurants in Saracen with an open-air dorm, bijou seafront bun- Bay, but all the resorts have attached restau- galows and deluxe stone-walled options. It’s rants so there’s quite a good selection of food also the stop-off point for Sihanoukville’s on offer. Koh Rong Sanloem is more about relaxing than partying so there’s not much DIVING IN CAMBODIA Cambodia might not be as famous for diving as neighbouring Thailand, but heading below the surface here offers up some serious dive highlights. Though fish stock may indeed be lower than in other Asian dive destinations (a consequence of years of irresponsible fishing practices, now being reversed by marine conservation organisations), the waters sur- rounding the southern islands off Sihanoukville are famed for their biodiverse coral life and unique array of macro life, particularly seahorses and nudibranchs. The best of Cambodia’s diving is among the fringing reefs of Koh Rong Sanloem and Koh Koun, which are home to a mind-boggling collection of weird and wacky nudi- branchs, starfish and seahorses. Commonly spotted fish include angelfish, damselfish and scorpionfish. Further afield, the islands of Koh Tang and Koh Prins offer a plethora of marine life from bamboo shark and bluespotted ribbontail ray to wrasse and batfish. Whale sharks have also been sighted by divers here. Two of the most experienced dive operators in the area, who know the best dive sites for macro life, are Cambodian Diving Group (p207) and Coral Garden Dive Resort (p207).
happening after dark. The Beach Resort usu- 209 ally has a bit of a drinking scene. Island) and Koh Totang – you can spend a day or two exploring the other islands, Fishing Hook INTERNATIONAL $ some of which have utterly isolated beaches (M’Pai Bay; mains US$2.50-5.50; h6-10.30pm) and good snorkelling. Most island-hopping Some of the finest food on Koh Rong San- tours target Koh Ampil, which is a cluster loem is served up at this place perched on of three tiny islands surrounding a spit of M’Pai Bay pier. The menu waltzes from sand, and the long white beaches on either Khmer-influenced seafood (such as grilled side of Koh Smach. fish in tamarind sauce) to more global offerings, while the cushion-strewn dining Koh Sdach has the only village of any size terrace over the water is the epitome of in the entire archipelago and is thoroughly off beach-casual ambience. the tourist trail with the small local economy based entirely around fishing. The village pier Good Vibz BAR is around 10 minutes by outboard (speedboat) from the point where the new four-lane high- (www.good-vibz-camp.com; happrox Dec-Apr) way that cuts through Botum Sakor National Veering off the walking trail from Saracen Bay Park terminates on the mainland. Although to Sunset Beach, 436 steps lead up the hill to this highway has made the archipelago this secluded jungle-bar that throws weekly infinitely easier to access, it’s part of a huge raves and daily events including movie nights tourism development that is permanent- with films projected on a large screen amid ly changing the southwest coast of Botum the jungle backdrop. For those who can’t bear Sakor, once known for pristine beaches to leave there’s also accommodation in ham- backed by virgin forest (an 18-hole golf course mocks (US$1) and tents (from US$3). has been opened along the mainland coast). So u th C oas t TKGhoe tehtSSionduagtcThheeArrrnecIh&silpAaewnladaysg o 88 Getting There & Away Fortunately, the islands appear to be largely excluded from the development Both Speed Ferry Cambodia (www.speedferry agenda, and existing resorts are far enough cambodia.com; one way/return US$13/26) from the mainland that the commotion is and TBC Speed Boat (% 088 781 1711; www. out of earshot, if not completely out of eye- tbckohrongspeedboat.com; one way/return shot. Koh Sdach has 24-hour electricity. US$12.50/$20) connect Saracen Bay with Siha- noukville. Speed Ferry Cambodia also stops at 4 Sleeping & Eating M’Pai Bay. Mean Chey Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ Speed Ferry Cambodia has departures from (%011 983806; Koh Sdach; r US$7.50) Budget Saracen Bay Pier at 9.30am and 3.30pm, which travellers will have to settle for this simple continue to drop off/pick up passengers at M’Pai guesthouse with 15 powder-blue concrete Bay (about 15 minutes later) and Koh Rong cottages close to the main fishing village on Island (US$5 to hop between the islands) before the northwest side of Koh Sdach. The Yvonne heading for Sihanoukville. restaurant on the premises has lovely views of the neighbouring islands and serves Speed Ferry Cambodia uses Orchid Resort, French and Khmer food. near Saracen Bay Pier, as its office. You should make sure to validate the ticket for your return Nomads Land RESORT $$$ journey here one day before travel to make sure (%011 916171; http://nomadslandcambodia. you get a seat. com; Koh Totang; bungalows s/d incl meals from US$60/90; hNov-May) S It’s hard to imagine TBC Speed Boat departs Saracen Bay Pier for a more relaxed place than Nomads. Owner Sihanoukville at 10.30am, 1.30pm and 4pm. Karim has made this the greenest resort in the islands with five funky bungalows pow- Schedules change frequently depending on the season so always double check when you buy your ticket. ered by solar panels and rain water collected for drinking. It sits on a white beach on Koh Koh Sdach Totang, an island speck, which is 15 minutes Archipelago from the mainland’s Poi Yopon village by the ប្រជកុំ ោះស្េដច resort’s boat. Just off Botum Sakor National Park’s (p181) southwest tip, this is a modest archipelago of 12 small islands, most of them uninhabit- 8 Getting There & Away ed. Basing yourself at one of the two islands with accommodation – Koh Sdach (King Getting to the Koh Sdach archipelago can be rath- er convoluted. The easiest, but most e xpensive,
210 old town district where lanes are lined with crumbling shophouses, many built in way is to hire private transport from Koh Kong the mid-20th century by the town’s then (US$60), Sihanoukville (US$80) or Phnom Penh vibrant Chinese merchant population. The (US$90) and travel overland via the new Chinese best streets, a couple of which have been highway to the village of Poi Yopon on the main- well restored in recent years, are between land opposite Koh Sdach. the triangle delineated by the central Duri- an Roundabout, the post office and the old Much cheaper is to take any public bus travel- French bridge. ling down NH48 and get off at the turnoff for the Chinese highway, 6km west of Andoung Tuek. Kampot Traditional From here you can either get a local minibus (US$7.50, two hours, mornings only) or moto Music School CULTURAL CENTRE driver (US$15 to US$20 depending on your negotiating skills) to take you to Poi Yopon. (www.kcdi-cambodia.com; St 724; h2-5pm Mon- Tue & 5-7pm Fri) SF During visitor hours Hiring an outboard from Poi Yopon to Koh you are welcome to observe training ses- Sdach costs about US$10. Nomads Land (p209) sions and/or performances at this school has its own private boat, which can pick you up, that trains children who are orphaned or and it can also can organise taxis to Poi Yopon. have disabilities in traditional music and dance. Donations are very welcome. A much more adventurous (or frustrating, depending on your outlook) option is to try to Kampot Provincial Museum MUSEUM get on the local cargo ferry from Sihanoukville to Koh Sdach Island. This leaves Sihanoukville’s (សារមនីរទ្ ខេតតក្ ំពត; River Rd; admission US$2; Royal Pier in the main port area daily, or every h3-6pm Tue & Thu, 8-11am & 3-6pm Sat & Sun) other day (depending on various factors), be- This tiny new museum, inside the finely- tween noon and 2pm (US$10, 4½ hours with aSo u th C oas t KS iagmhptost P r o v i nc epreserved French colonial–era Old Gover- stop or two along the way) and makes the return leg from Koh Sdach at 8pm. nor’s Mansion, traces the history of Kampot and the outlying area, drawing on the knowl- KAMPOT PROVINCE edge and experience of Jean-Michel Filippi, a cultural anthropologist and some-time resi- Kampot Province (ខេតកត្ ពំ ត) has emerged dent of the area. Well, we think it does anyway, as on our as one of Cambodia’s most alluring destina- last visit we tried to access it twice during tions thanks to a hard-to-beat combination its supposed opening hours and found it of easygoing towns and lush countryside firmly closed. If it is open during your Kam- riddled with honeycombed limestone caves. pot visit, it’s worthwhile stopping by. The province is renowned for producing Kampot Prison HISTORIC BUILDING some of the world’s finest pepper. Durian haters be warned: Kampot is also Cambo- (ពនធន្ ាគារ ខេត្តកពំ ត; St 736) You can view dia’s main producer of this odoriferous fruit. the beautiful, but hugely decrepit, French colonial–era old prison building from out- Kampot កំពត side Kampot prison gate. The guards are used to tourists stopping by, but ask before % 033 / POP 39,500 It’s not hard to see why travellers become you start taking photographs. entranced by Kampot. This riverside town, with streets rimmed by dilapidated shop- Old French Bridge BRIDGE house architecture, has a dreamy quality; as Destroyed during the Khmer Rouge period, Kampot’s old French bridge was later re- if someone pressed the snooze button and paired in a mishmash of styles. It’s official- the entire town forgot to wake up. Eclipsed as a port when Sihanoukville was ly closed for safety reasons; locals simply climb over the barrier to walk across. Watch founded in 1959, Kampot makes an excellent your step extremely carefully if you do de- base for exploring Bokor National Park, Kep, and the superb cave-temples and verdant cide to walk on it. countryside of the surrounding area. 2 Activities & Courses 1 Sights Kampot is fast creating a niche for itself as a base for adventure sports and activities. Kampot is more about ambience than ac- Climbing and water sports on the Kam- tual sights and the most enjoyable activity pong Bay River are the main attractions. is strolling or cycling through the central
211 Climbodia ROCK CLIMBING FESTIVAL TIME (%095 581951; www.climbodia.com; Phnom Launched in 2015, the Kampot Writers Kbal Romeas, off NH33; half-day US$35-40, full- & Readers Festival (www.kampot day US$70) Cambodia’s first outdoor rock- writersfestival.com) brings four days of climbing outfit offers highly recommended literary discussions, poetry readings, art half-day and full-day programs of climbing, exhibitions, concerts and creative work- abseiling and caving amid the limestone for- shops to Kampot in November. mations of Phnom Kbal Romeas, 5km south of Kampot. Via ferratas (cabled routes) have been established across some of the cliffs and the variety of programs cater for both com- Bart the Boatman BOAT TOUR plete novices and the more experienced. (%092 174280; 2 people US$40) Known sim- ply as Bart the Boatman, this Belgian expat SUP Asia WATER SPORTS runs original private boat tours along the (%093 980550; www.supasia.org; Kompong Bay small tributaries of the Kampong Bay River. River east bank; 2½hr tour US$25; hdaily mid- Oct–Jul) SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) has His backwater tour is highly recommended by travellers. come to Kampot in a big way with this com- pany offering an alternative form of touring Captain Chim’s BOAT TOUR the river. Daily tours depart at 8.30am and (%012 321043; Captain Chim’s Guesthouse, St 724; 3.30pm, taking in the riverbank sights of the sunset boat trip per person US$5) Sunset cruises local area (with a SUP lesson beforehand). and firefly-watching trips on a traditional boat There’s also a two-day (18km) trip that trav- include a cold beer and are a bargain. Also erses the Kampong Bay River to the sea. on offer are fishing trips for US$11 including So u th C oas t TKoaumrpso t P r o v i nc e lunch, and bicycle hire (US$2 per day). Khmer Roots Cafe COOKING COURSE (%088 356 8016; http://khmerrootscafe.com; off Kampot Dreamtime Tours BOAT TOUR NH33; cooking course incl return transport from (%089 908417; www.kampotrivercruises.com; Kampot US$20; h10am-4pm) More than just a River Rd) Sunset river trips leave from the cooking class, Khmer Roots Cafe is a slice dock just across the road from Rikitikitavi of Cambodian rural life set amid owner (p213) at 4pm and cruise out to the river Soklim’s shady trees and organic vegetable mouth in a boat formerly owned by King gardens about one hour east of Kampot. Norodom Sihanouk. Wine, cheese and a Classes usually include preparing two dishes seafood barbecue are included. (including gathering the ingredients), lunch and the opportunity to explore the tranquil Sok Lim Tours TOUR countryside afterwards. (%012 796919; www.soklimtours.com; St 730; h8am-7pm) Kampot’s longest-running outfit is well regarded and organises all the usual Seeing Hands Massage 5 MASSAGE (River Rd; per hr US$5; h7am-11pm) Blind mas- day tours and river cruises. For private coun- seurs offer soothing bliss. tryside tours they have good English-s peaking remork driver-guides who understand the T Tours process and history behind Kampot pepper. If there’s no one in the actual office, they’ll be in Everybody and their grandmother wants the neighbouring Jack’s Place restaurant. to sell you a tour in Kampot. The main day trips are to Bokor Hill Station (US$12 to Quad Cambodia Kampot ADVENTURE TOUR $15), and a countryside tour that usually in- cludes Phnom Chouk Cave, the nearby salt (%088 938 1242; www.quadcambodiakampot.wix. fields, a pepper farm, Kep and Koh Tonsay com/quadcambodiakampot; River Rd; sunset 1½hr (US$18 to $20). tour 1 person US$23, 2 people US$33) A revved-up approach to local sightseeing in the Kampot Alternatively, you can hire a remork driv- countryside, sunset quad-biking tours depart er and cobble together your own tour of the at 4.15pm. There are also longer tours (from caves, Kep and surrounding countryside. US$36 per person) that head further afield. Depending on locations, a half-/full-day tour costs about US$15/25. 4 Sleeping Sunset cruises and evening boat trips to When it comes to accommodation, Kam- watch fireflies are also popular. Be aware on pot is a tale of two cities. In town most ho- the firefly tours that seeing fireflies isn’t guar- tels and guesthouses are in, or near, the old anteed due to their unpredictable nature.
212 Kampot e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles ABCD D D Quad Cambodia Kampot (500m); FarmLink (500m); Bungalow Les Manguiers (2km); Villa Vedici (2km); Kampot River (1km); Naga Ekareach St NH 3 House (1km); Olly's Place (2km); Green House (5km); Arcadia 2ú#6 1 Backpackers (6km) #ì 66 #æ 1 Old French Bridge #æ SUP Asia (4km); Canadia 1 Champa Lodge (5km) Bank Old Cinema â# 37 7 Makara St ›# 6(closed) ð# Sonja Kill Memorial D #ï ›# 38 6 6Hospital(7km); Bokor Hill Station (40km) 6 62 6666663 D21#ú St 729 NH332#ú7#ý3þ#3133þ#2â#2ú#O2ld›#36Ma2ú#r4kSett724ÿ#12St 7242 St 73128 #ú -# BKaaymRpiovnegr 30 ›# #æ5 #ì 40›# ›# #û 1ÿ#0St37926 þ#34 Acleda 2 #æ Bank 35 29 St 22738#úÿ#18 #û 7# Ø# 8 St 701 ÿ#17 ò# 13 16 Climbodia ÿ#St 730ÿ# (2km); St 730 St 730 ÿ# # #ú ÿ# Kep (24km); 11 9 25 3 15 Khmer Root So u th C oas t KS laemeppoi nt gP r o v i nc e Cafe (32km); Starling Farm (39km) â# 3 St 736 Lotus 4 4 Flower Pond â# 4 St 729 St 701 River Rd ÿ# 14 5 5 D ÿ# 19 Kampot Car Rental (400m)D ÿ#20 AB C town, a stone’s throw from all the cafes and impressive through breezes, personalised restaurants. Out of town, a series of places fans and reading lights. Good-value private are strung out along the riverbank offering rooms are exceptionally well cared for and a complete chill-out (or complete party, de- bright. Downstairs is a movie lounge and a pending on which one you pick) experience. lively bar-restaurant with happy hours from If you fall for Kampot’s charms, it might be noon to 8pm and well-regarded Indian food. worth sampling both areas. There’s even minigolf in the garden. 4 Central Kampot Pepper Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%017 822626; [email protected]; St 730; dm US$3, r with fan US$10, bungalow US$25; Magic Sponge GUESTHOUSE $ naW) We’re big fans of this homely, local- (%017 946428; www.magicspongekampot.com; St 730; dm US$4, r with air-con US$10-15, with- ly run guesthouse in a slightly creaky mid- century villa. Fan-only rooms have bags of out air-con US$15-20; naW) This popular character with beautiful old wood floors backpacker place has a rooftop dorm with
213 Kampot 21 Cafe Espresso..........................................C2 So u th C oas t KS laemeppoi nt gP r o v i nc e 22 Captain Chim's ........................................B2 æ Sights 23 Ellie's .........................................................B2 1 Durian Roundabout .................................C1 24 Epic Arts Café ..........................................C2 2 Four Nagas Roundabout........................ D2 25 Jack's Place..............................................D3 3 Kampot Prison ........................................ C4 26 Night Market ............................................ C1 4 Kampot Provincial Museum.................. B4 5 Kampot Traditional Music School ........ C2 Rikitikitavi ........................................(see 17) 6 Old French Bridge....................................B1 27 Rusty Keyhole..........................................B2 28 Veronica's Kitchen ..................................B2 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours û Drinking & Nightlife Captain Chim's............................... (see 12) 29 KAMA ........................................................C2 30 Oh Neils.....................................................B2 7 Kampot Dreamtime Tours .................... B3 ý Entertainment 8 Seeing Hands Massage 5....................... B2 31 Ecran .........................................................B2 9 Sok Lim Tours ......................................... D3 þ Shopping 32 Dorsu.........................................................B2 ÿ Sleeping 33 Kepler's Kampot Books..........................B2 10 Baraca ...................................................... B2 34 Tiny Kampot Pillows ...............................C2 11 Blue Buddha Hotel.................................. C3 ï Transport 12 Captain Chim's Guesthouse.................. D2 35 Capitol Tours ...........................................D2 13 Magic Sponge.......................................... D3 36 Champa Mekong Travel .........................C2 14 Mea Culpa................................................ B5 37 Giant Ibis................................................... C1 15 Nyny Guesthouse ................................... D3 38 Kampot Express ...................................... C1 16 Pepper Guesthouse................................ D3 39 Kampot Tours & Travel ..........................B2 17 Rikitikitavi ................................................ B3 40 Phnom Penh Sorya .................................D2 18 The Columns ........................................... C3 19 The Mad Monkey Hostel........................ B5 20 Two Moons .............................................. B5 ú Eating Baraca .............................................(see 10) (room 101 is the best), while out in the front dorms and a poolside bar area that’s always garden are two rather upmarket bungalows home to a youthful party scene. with rain showers and tasteful decor. Nyny Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%077 901460; [email protected]; St 730; s/d Blue Buddha Hotel HOTEL $ US$6/8, with air-con US$13/15; aW) Bargain (%071 637 2924; www.bluebuddhahotel.com; St 730; d/tr/f US$22/27/38; naW) Raising basement prices with solid facilities are on the bar for budget digs in Kampot, Blue offer at this blandly modern hotel. Rooms Buddha has helpful owners and spacious, are sparkling clean and come with showers minimalist-style rooms with comfortable beds, that have dependable hot water. cable TV, minibar and big modern bathrooms. Guests also benefit from a swag of discounts oRikitikitavi BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%012 235102; www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com; River at businesses around town, and free bike hire. Rd; r incl breakfast US$48-53, f US$58; naW) Captain Chim’s Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ One of Cambodia’s best-run boutique ho- (%012 321043; www.facebook.com/captain-chims- tels, Rikitikitavi’s rooms are a lesson in guest-house; St 724; dm US$3, r with/without subtle luxury, fusing Asian-inspired decor air-con US$13/8; aW) This family-run guest- with modern creature comforts. Ceilings are house offers simple, spick-and-span rooms graced with stunning beams, and palm pan- and a spacious dorm with its own balcony. els and beautiful artwork adorn the walls. Bathrooms only have cold water. Guests get Plus you get swish contemporary bathrooms free laundry and free bicycle hire. and mod-con amenities such as flat-screen The Mad Monkey Hostel HOSTEL $ TVs, DVD player, fridge and kettle. Service is sublime. Highly recommended. (%033-666 8853; www.madmonkeyhostels.com/ kampot; River Rd; dm US$5, d with/without air- con US$25/18; naiWs) Part of the Mad The Columns BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%092 128300; www.the-columns.com; St 728; r Monkey hostel empire, this place lures incl breakfast US$45-59, ste US$75; aW) Set in backpackers in with good-sized (fan-only) a row of thoughtfully restored shophouses
214 Naga House BUNGALOW $ near the riverfront, this boutique hotel (%012 289916; www.facebook.com/nagahouse blends classic and modern with minimalist kampot; Tuk Chhou Rd; bungalow US$7-12; W) rooms featuring a touch of mid-century fur- This classic backpacker hang-out offers basic niture, iPhone docking stations, flat-screen ground-level and stilted thatched bungalows TVs and slick modern bathrooms. Down- (all with shared bathroom) amid lush foliage. stairs is Green’s, an inviting cafe with a love- There’s an extremely social bar-restaurant on ly old tilework floor and a menu of healthy the riverfront that often rocks into the night salads and shakes. and regularly hosts live music and DJ sets. Two Moons HOTEL $$ (%033-932857; www.twomoonshotel.com; River Arcadia Backpackers HOSTEL $ (%077 219756; www.arcadiabackpackers.com; Tuk Rd; r US$35-50, ste US$70-85, Khmer house r with Chhou Rd; dm US$5-8, r with bathroom US$17-20, shared bathroom US$15-20; naWs) Bright, contemporary rooms in the main building without bathroom US$10, bungalow US$25; W) Kampot’s biggest backpacker party scene, opening on to a communal balcony, and Arcadia is about sunbathing on the river there’s some jazzy top floor ‘penthouse’ suites, perfect for families. The sprawling pontoon during the day and later, joining in garden, with inviting pool area and good the revelry at the bar-restaurant that regu- bar-restaurant, is home to a traditional larly cranks into the wee hours. Those after wooden Khmer house with a couple of at- some semblance of sleep would be wise not mospheric budget rooms. to opt for the US$5 dorm. Mea Culpa GUESTHOUSE $$ oGreen House BUNGALOW $$ (%012 504769; www.meaculpakampot.com; St So u th C oas t KS laemeppoi nt gP r o v i nc e 729; r US$25-27; aW) This modern villa has (%092 791958; www.greenhousekampot.com; Tuk Chhou Rd; bungalow with bathroom US$20-30, 11 rooms with plenty of homely appeal, while without bathroom US$12; W) This gorgeously the location, south of the centre, guarantees conceived riverfront pad is all about a relaxed, peaceful vibe. The garden res- tranquillity and has both palm-thatch taurant here spins the best pizza in town, bungalows (with shared facilities) and col- straight from a wood-fired oven. ourful wooden cottages with balconies; the best right on the riverbank (children under 12 not accepted). The historic teak-wood 4 On the River main building, which houses the restaurant (open from 7am to 8.45pm), was once home Most of the out-of-town places aren’t that to the legendary Phnom Penh bar ‘Snowy’s’ far out of town – usually just a 10-minute (aka ‘Maxine’s’), transported lock stock and remork ride from the centre. All of them are barrel here in 2011. on the river and have over-water pavilions or docks to facilitate swimming. Bungalow Kampot River BUNGALOW $ Champa Lodge BUNGALOW $$ (%092 525835; www.champalodge.com; Kom- (%033-666 6418; [email protected]; Tuk pong Kreang; bungalow US$38-60; W) Set on a Chhou Rd; bungalow US$6-10; W) For back- to-basics living and serious relaxation this bend in the river amid traditional Cambo- dian countryside scenes, Champa is a rural Cambodian-owned family place comes up hideaway with arty rooms set in traditional trumps. The river-terrace restaurant (meals from US$2) is the spot to contemplate sun- Khmer wooden houses, all with verandahs to sloth out on and admire the bucolic views. set while accommodation is in rustic palm- Kayak and bike hire is available if you can thatch bungalows (think mattress on the floor, mosquito net and fan). Stilted bunga- drag yourself away. The restaurant-bar in- cludes a great selection of Belgian beers. lows have private bathrooms. Olly’s Place BUNGALOW $ Les Manguiers RESORT $$ (%092 330050; www.mangokampot.com; Kom- (%092 605837; www.ollysplacekampot.com; Tuk pong Bay River east bank; r with shared bathroom Chhou Rd; dm US$3, r US$6-8; W) This mellow, intimate retreat is run by French-speaking US$11-24, bungalow US$32-80; iW) This ram- bling garden complex has swags of extras Belgian Olly. Thatched bungalows and basic with free canoes and bikes, badminton, table rooms are ridiculously good value consider- ing the relaxed vibe and plum location. Use tennis and a children’s playground. You can jump into the river from one of four over- of windsurfers and paddleboards is free. water gazebos. There’s a variety of accom-
215 KAMPOT PEPPER So u th C oas t KEaatmipnogt P r o v i nc e Before Cambodia’s civil war, no Paris restaurant worth its salt would be without pepper from Kampot Province, but the country’s pepper farms were all but destroyed by the Khmer Rouge, who believed in growing rice, not spice. Today, thanks to a group of eco-entrepreneurs and foodies who are passionate about pepper, Kampot-grown peppercorns, delicate and aromatic but packing a powerful punch, are making a comeback. Kampot pepper is grown on family farms that dot Phnom Voar and nearby valleys northwest of Kompong Trach, where the unique climate and farmers’ fidelity to labour- intensive growing techniques produce particularly pungent peppercorns. In fact, Kampot pepper is so extraordinary that it’s Cambodia’s first-ever product to receive a ‘geographi- cal indication’ (GI), just like French cheeses. Increased sales have made a huge difference for Kampot’s pepper families, and especially for the girls who are able to marry now their parents can afford their dowries. Peppercorns are picked from February to May. Black pepper is plucked from the trees when the corns are starting to turn yellow and turns black during sun-drying; red pepper is picked when the fruit is completely mature; and mild white pepper is soaked in water to remove the husks. September to February is the season for green pepper, whose sprigs have to be eaten almost immediately after harvesting – the crab market restaurants (p223) of Kep are one of the best places to experience its gentle freshness. A packet of pepper makes an excellent souvenir or gift: it’s lightweight, unbreakable and, if stored properly – that is, not ground! – will stay fresh for years. FarmLink (%033 690 2354; www.farmlink-cambodia.com; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri) In Kampot you can purchase pouches of peerless pepper at the FarmLink bou- tique, one of the pioneers of GI pepper production. You can see pepper being dried in the garden out the front and visitors can see the pepper sorting room. It’s just over the New Bridge; take the first right and look for it on the left. Sothy’s Pepper Farm (%088 951 3505; www.mykampotpepper.asia; Phnom Vour, Kep dis- trict, off NH33; h9am-5pm) By far the friendliest pepper farm to visit, Sothy’s has a shop and offers short tours that explain the history and process behind the Kampot pepper industry. It’s nearer to Kep than Kampot. Starling Farm (www.starlingfarm.com; Kampot district, off NH33; h7am-5pm) Has an on- site shop and restaurant. The farm doesn’t run tours (or offer any information) but you can go have a look at the nearest pepper field by yourself. The scenery on the way out here from Kampot is the real highlight. modation from large, bright simple rooms to where you can chow down on simple noodle stilted wooden bungalows, all with fan and and rice dishes, grilled meat and Khmer des- cold water. Meals are served table d’hôte style. serts such as sticky rice with coconut sauce. Villa Vedici RESORT $$ Many of the guesthouses are worthy of (%089 290714; www.villavedici.com; Kompong Bay a meal. Mea Culpa has wood-fired pizzas, River east bank; r US$30-45, bungalows from US$55; Magic Sponge (p212) has good Indian food, aiWs) A playground for kids and adults or enjoy a meal on the water at one of the alike offering kitesurfing, a speedboat for out-of-town riverside places – Green House water-skiing and wakeboarding, plus a Play- is particularly good. Station on a gargantuan flat-screen in the Cafe Espresso CAFE $ main building’s airy living room. Rooms are (St 731; mains US$4-6; h8.30am-4pm Tue-Fri, 9am- functional rather than frilly, but guests tend 4.30pm Sat & Sun; Wv) A blink-and-you’ll- to spend most of their time here lapping up miss-it cafe; we advise you don’t blink. The the rays beside the lovely pool. Aussie owners are real foodies and offer a global menu that traipses from vegetarian 5 Eating quesadillas to Brazilian-style pork sandwich- es with some especially tempting breakfast For cheap eats, the bustling night market options. But it is caffeine-cravers who will (NH3; h4pm-midnight) is full of food stalls
216 be really buzzing, thanks to their regionally popular riverfront bar-restaurant turns out grown coffee blends, roasted daily in house. a global menu of comfort food and Khmer home cooking. Most people are here for their Epic Arts Café CAFE $ famous ribs; order in advance, but beware (www.epicarts.org.uk; St 724; mains US$2-4; the enormous extra-large portions. h7am-4pm; W) S A great place for break- fast, homemade cakes, infused tea and light lunches, this mellow eatery is staffed by Baraca TAPAS $$ (St 726; tapas US$1.50-3, mixed plate for 2 peo- young people who are deaf or have a disabil- ple US$10; h5-10pm; Wv) A cosy, colourful ity. Profits fund arts workshops for Cambodi- place with a slight bohemian edge, Baraca ans with a disability and it’s possible to learn serves inventive tapas with cherry-picked in- some sign language at 3pm every Friday. fluences from Asia, the Mediterranean and the Middle East. A must for lovers of small- Jack’s Place CAMBODIAN $ plate dining. Out the back their guesthouse (St 730; mains US$2.50-6; h7am-10pm; Wv) A friendly, local family-run place, this re- (%011 290434; www.baraca.org; St 726; d US$12- 16, f US$20; W) has simple, airy rooms with laxed open-air restaurant dishes up yao hon high ceilings and original tilework floors. (Khmer hot-pots), char kroeung (vegetable and peanut stir-fry) and a whole host of Cam- 6 Drinking & Entertainment bodian staples. The soups here are delicious and there’s also sandwiches and burgers. KAMA BAR (Kampot Arts and Music Association; St 726; h6pm-midnight Wed-Sun; W) Owned by Julien Ellie’s CAFE $ Poulson, a founding member of the acclaimed (St 726; mains US$3-5; h8am-4pm Wed-Mon; band, Cambodian Space Project, KAMA is So u th C oas t KD ar imnpkoi nt gP r&oEvnitnce reta i nm e nt Wv) Eggs Benedict, French toast, English part boho bar, part art space. It spins tunes muffins – Ellie’s whips up some of the most from an eclectic vinyl collection, plays movies scrumptious breakfasts in town for travellers nightly and hosts creative events. Pop in for pining for a taste of home. The cakes and a beer, or their dish of the day, and check out original sandwich fillings, such as pumpkin, what’s happening while you’re in town. spinach and feta, make for a tasty lunch too. Captain Chim’s CAMBODIAN $ Oh Neils BAR (St 724; mains US$1-3; h7am-10pm; W) Some of (River Rd; h5pm-late; W) The liveliest of the Kampot’s best budget bites are found here. little bars that dot the riverfront in Kampot, Best known for breakfast, Khmer faves such Oh Neils has walls plastered with rock ’n’ roll as loc lak (salad featuring marinated, stir- memorabilia and a who’s who soundtrack of fried beef) will fill you up at any time of day. classic tunes from down the decades. oRikitikitavi INTERNATIONAL $$ Ecran CINEMA (www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com; River Rd; mains US$5- (St 724; per movie 10,000r; h11am-9pmWed-Mon) Ecran (French for screen) is a little movie- 8; h7am-10pm; Wv) Named after the mon- cafe offering big-screen films and a private goose in Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book, this riverfront terrace is all about the ambi- room for movie watching. Cambodian clas- sics such as The Killing Fields screen daily, ence. It’s known for its Kampot pepper chick- plus cult classics and more. Handmade noo- en, burritos, slow-cooked curry and salads. Happy hour from 5pm to 7pm brings 2-for-1 dles and dumplings are available (US$2 to $2.50), plus drinks. cheer on all cocktails. This is the best place in town to kick back and enjoy a sundowner. 7 Shopping Veronica’s Kitchen INTERNATIONAL $$ (River Rd; mains US$4.75-6; h7.30am-10pm; W) Tiny Kampot Pillows HANDICRAFTS, CLOTHING This easygoing and friendly open-air restau- (www.tinykampotpillows.com; 2000 Roundabout; rant is run by a local family and has a con- h10am-6pm) Textile shop selling, well, lots of sidered menu of classic Khmer and European tiny pillows in handwoven silk, plus plenty of dishes that manages to please everyone. It’s a other accessories from clothing to bags. top riverfront spot for a late-afternoon beer. Dorsu CLOTHING Rusty Keyhole INTERNATIONAL $$ (www.dorsu.org; St 724; h10am-5.30pm) Ethical fashion from Kampot. The lovely range of (River Rd; small/large/extra-large ribs US$5/7.50/10; high-quality wardrobe staples here are all de- h8am-11pm Nov-May,11am-11pmJun-Oct; W) This signed and produced locally by a small team.
217 Kepler’s Kampot Books BOOKS All guesthouses can arrange tickets and pick-ups. A moto to Kep should cost about US$6 (remork (St 724; h8am-8pm) This is the place for US$12). secondh and books in Kampot. 88 Information 88 Getting Around The free and often hilarious Kampot Survival A moto ride in town costs around 2000r (remork Guide (www.kampotsurvivalguide.com) takes a US$1). To get to the riverside guesthouses on tongue-in-cheek look at local expat life. There’s the edge of town it should cost between US$2 to also the free Coastal guide to Kampot and Kep, US$4, depending on where they’re located. with heaps of info on local businesses. Bicycles (US$2 per day) and motorbikes (about There’s a strip of copy shops with internet US$5 per day) can be rented from many guest- access southwest of the Durian Roundabout on houses around town. 7 Makara St. Wi-fi is free at most guesthouses, Kampot Car Rental (% 088 5102702; www. cafes and restaurants. facebook.com/kampotcarrental; River Rd; per Acleda Bank (St 724; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, day from US$20; h7am-8pm) Self-drive car hire to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) gives you the freedom to explore at a bargain Canadia Bank (Durian Roundabout; h8am- price. Check the small print. 3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) Sonja Kill Memorial Hospital (% emergency Around Kampot So u th C oas t IKAnrafomopurnomdtatPKiraoomnvpiontc e 078 265782, outpatient clinic 077 666752; www. skmh.org; NH3, 7km west of Kampot) The best The limestone hills east of Kampot towards hospital in the area with state-of-the-art medical Kep are littered with caves. Phnom Chhnork, facilities and highly trained local and expatriate surrounded by blazingly green countryside, doctors. is a real gem and can easily be visited in an Tourist Information Centre (% 033-655 5541; afternoon along with Phnom Sorsia. [email protected]; River Rd; h7am-7pm) Led by the knowledgeable Mr Pov, Kampot’s Phnom Chhnork CAVE tourist office doles out free advice, sells tours and can arrange transport to area attractions (ភ្នំឈ្ោង ក; admission US$1; h7am-6pm) Phnom such as caves, falls and Kompong Trach. Chhnork is a short walk through a quilt of rice paddies from Wat Ang Sdok, where 88 Getting There & Away a monk collects the entry fee and a gaggle of friendly local kids offer their services as Kampot, on NH3, is 148km southwest of Phnom guides. Penh, 105km east of Sihanoukville and 25km From the bottom, a 203-step staircase leads northwest of Kep. up the hillside and down into a cavern as graceful as a Gothic cathedral. The view from Capitol Tours (% 092 665001; NH33) and up top, and the walk to and from the wat, is Phnom Penh Sorya (NH33) sell tickets from offic- especially magical in the late afternoon. es opposite the Total petrol station near the Four Inside the cave you’ll be greeted by a Nagas Roundabout. Both have a 7am departure to stalactite elephant, with a second elephant Phnom Penh (US$5 to US$6, four hours). Capitol outlined on the flat cliff face to the right. Tiny has another service at 1pm. Sorya’s service goes chirping bats live up near two natural chim- via Kep (US$2, 45 minutes). neys that soar towards the blue sky, partly blocked by foliage of an impossibly green Most people opt to travel to Phnom Penh by hue. faster, more comfortable, minivan services. Within the main chamber stands a re- Giant Ibis (%095 666809; www.giantibis. markable 7th-century (Funan-era) brick com; 7 Makara St) has minivans to Phnom Penh temple, dedicated to Shiva. The temple’s (US$9, 2½ hours) departing at 8.30am and brickwork is in superb condition thanks to 2.45pm. Kampot Express (%077 555123; www. the protection afforded by the cave. Poke kampotexpress.com; St 729 ) runs minivans your head inside and check out the ancient to Phnom Penh (US$8, 2¾ hours) at 8am,1pm stalactite that serves as a linga. A slippery and 4.30pm. To Sihanoukville, Kampot Tours passage, flooded in the rainy season, leads & Travel (%092 125556; St 710) (US$5, 8am through the hill. and 3.30pm, two hours) and Champa Mekong To get to Phnom Chhnork turn left off the Travel (%033-630 0036; St 724; US$5; 8am, NH33 about 5.5km east of Kampot. Look 10.30am, 3.30pm; two hours) are the two main for a sign reading ‘Phnom Chhngok Resort’ minivan companies. For Kep (US$3, 30 min- across the road from a Cham mosque. From utes), Kampot Tours & Travel have services at 9.30am and 2pm, while Champa minivans leave at 10.30am and 3pm. The morning service to Kep from both companies carries on to Ha Tien in Vietnam (US$8, 1½ hours).
218 It’s appropriate, then, that the foggy show- the turnoff it’s 6km to the cave on a bumpy down that ends the Matt Dillon crime thrill- road. A return moto ride from Kampot costs er City of Ghosts (2002) was filmed here. about US$6 (remork US$10). These days the hill station is becoming Phnom Sorsia CAVE more famous for the ugly modern casino, which blights the summit, the Thansur (ភ្នសំ ស�ៀរ, Phnom Sia; h7am-6pm) F Bokor Highland Resort. It’s part of a devel- Phnom Sorsia is home to several natural opment project that includes a golf course caves. From the parking area, a stairway and numerous holiday villas on sale at spec- leads up the hillside to a gaudy modern tem- ulative prices. This construction has sadly ple. From there, steps lead left up to Rung all but destroyed the pleasingly eerie atmos- Damrey Saa (White Elephant Cave). A slip- phere of bygone Bokor. pery, sloping staircase where one false step will send you into the abyss leads down and then up and then out through a hole in the other side. Exit the cave and follow the right- History hand path which leads back to the temple. To see the Bat Cave take the steps lead- In the early 1920s the French, ever eager to ing to the right from the temple. Inside the escape the lowland heat, established a hill cave, bats flutter and chirp overhead, flying station atop Phnom Bokor (1080m), known out to the forest and back through a narrow for its dramatic vistas of the coastal plain natural chimney. Locals use bamboo poles one vertical kilometre below. to hunt the creatures by swatting them out of the air. The circuit ends near a hilltop The hill station was twice abandoned to So u th C oas t BKS ioagmkhpotrostH iPlrloSvti antcieo n stupa with impressive views. the howling winds: first when Vietnamese The turnoff to Phnom Sorsia is on NH33, and Khmer Issarak (Free Khmer) forces over- 13.5km southeast of Kampot and 1.3km ran it in the late 1940s while fighting for in- northwest of the White Horse Roundabout dependence from France, and again in 1972 near Kep. Look for a sign reading ‘Phnom when the Lon Nol regime left it to the Khmer Sorsia Resort’ – from there a dirt road leads Rouge forces that were steadily taking over about 1km northeast through the rice fields. the countryside. Because of its commanding position, the site was strategically important Tek Chhou Rapids RIVER to all sides during the civil war and was one location the Vietnamese really had to fight (ទកឹ ឈ;ូ admission US$1) Hugely popular with for during their 1979 invasion. For several locals, these modest rapids are surrounded by months, the Khmer Rouge held out in the food stalls and – a prerequisite for any proper Catholic church while the Vietnamese shot Khmer day out – picnicking platforms. A re- at them from the Bokor Palace, 500m away. mork here from Kampot costs around US$5. 1 Sights Thanks to the hydroelectric dams upriv- Bokor Palace HISTORIC BUILDING er (part of the US$280 million project that flooded small parts of Bokor National Park), (ដណំ ាកប់ កូ គោ) F Opened in 1925, this once grand hotel was a chief playground for the term ‘rapids’ is something of a misnomer hobnobbing French officials. As you wander but this is still a top spot for riverside relax- ation and a chance to take in the local scene. through the building, you’ll need your imag- ination to envisage the lavish interiors that adorned the opulent ballroom and guest- rooms as today the hotel is a vast, empty Bokor Hill Station shell with just scraps of original floor tile- work still hanging on. កស្ាថ នយី ភបន្ំ កូ គោ The once abandoned French retreat Catholic Church CHURCH of Bokor Hill Station F, inside the 1581-sq-km Bokor National Park F The squat belfry of the Romanesque- style Catholic church still holds aloft its (ឧទ្យានជាតិបូកគោ, Preah Monivong National cross, and fragments of glass brick cling to Park; admission motorbike/car 2000r/4000r) is famed for its refreshingly cool climate and the corners of the nave windows; one side window holds the barest outline of a rusty creepy derelict buildings that had their hey- crucifix. It’s easy to imagine a small crowd of day during the 1920s and 1930s. On cold, foggy days it can get pretty spooky up here French colonials in formal dress assembled here for Sunday Mass. The subdividing walls as mists drop visibility to nothing and the inside were built by the Khmer Rouge. A bit wind keens through abandoned buildings. up the hill, a sheer drop overlooks rainforest.
219 Wat Sampov Pram BUDDHIST TEMPLE many are covered in graffiti and shelter squatters (and, some say, ghosts). There are (វត្សត ំពៅប្រា)ំ Lichen-caked Wat Sampov good examples along NH33A, heading north Pram (Five Boats Wat) offers tremendous from the Northern Roundabout. Don’t get views over the jungle to the coastline below, your hopes up about buying one, as they including Vietnam’s Phu Quoc Island. Wild were all snapped up for a song in the mid- monkeys like to hang out around the wat. 1990s by well-connected speculators. Popokvil Falls WATERFALL (ទកឹ ធ្ាល ក់ពពកវលិ ) From the Thansur Bokor oKep National Park PARK Highland Resort, the road heads north to two-tiered Popokvil Falls, which are at their (ឧទ្យានជ ាតិកែប; admission 4000r) The interi- or of Kep peninsula is occupied by Kep Na- most impressive from July to October. tional Park, where an 8km circuit, navigable 8 Getting There & Away by foo t and mountain bike, winds through thick forest passing by wats and viewpoints. To visit the hill station you can either go on one Quirky yellow signs point the way and show of the numerous day trips organised in Kampot trailheads to off-shooting walking paths that or rent a motorbike and travel under your own lead into the park’s interior. The ‘Stairway to steam. The road up here is brand-spanking new – Heaven’ trail is particularly worthwhile, lead- built by the Thansur Bokor Highland Resort – so ing up the hill to a pagoda, a nunnery and it’s in excellent condition. the Sunset Rock viewpoint. The main park entrance is behind Veranda Natural Resort. Kep កែប Fuel up or chill out after your hike at Led Zep Cafe (p224), which is on the trail 300m So u th C oas t GK eaptmtpiontg PTrhoevrienc& eAway % 036 / POP 35,000 Founded as a seaside retreat for the French into the walk from the main entrance. The elite in 1908 and a favoured haunt of Cam- owner, Christian, was the driving force in cre- bodian high-rollers during the 1960s, today ating, mapping and signposting the trails and tourists are being drawn back to Kep (Krong continues to look after the park environment. Kep, also spelled Kaeb). Some travellers find Kep a tad soulless because it lacks a centre. Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island) ISLAND Others are oddly charmed by its torpid pace. (កោះទន្សាយ) If you like a rustic beach- combe r lifestyle, Koh Tonsay’s 250m-long This dearth of a central hub (not to men- main beach is for you, but come now as the tion a complete absence of a long sandy shoreline) hasn’t stopped Kep’s proliferation island is tagged for development. The beach is one of the nicest of any of the Kep-area of boutique resorts. Hotels here squarely islan d s , but don’t expect sparkling white target a cultured beach crowd, happier to go for a hike amid the butterly-filled trails sand. T his one has shorefront flotsam, chick e n s and wandering cows. Restau- of Kep National Park and hang out in their rant- s h acks and rudimentary bungalows hammock with a glass of wine, than party. Famed for its spectacular sunsets and (from US$7 per night) rim the sand. Boats to Rabbit Island (30 minutes) leave splendid seafood, Kep also has a glut of lux- from Rabbit Island pier at 9am, returning to urious villa ruins that hark back to its pre- war heyday. Kep’s evacuation under Khmer Kep at 4pm (US$10 return). Kep guesthous- es can arrange boat tickets or you can head Rouge rule, followed in the 1980s by sys- to the Koh Tonsay Boat Ticket Office at the tematic looting, mean today these decaying shells of modernist mansions, now entan- pier. Private boats to Rabbit Island can be arranged at the pier office and cost about gled with forest, stand as relics from another US$25 return. age that met a sudden and violent end. Other Kep-area islands include Koh Pos 1 Sights (Snake Island; about 30 minutes beyond Rab- bit Island), which has a deserted beach and Scattered throughout Kep are the mildewed fine snorkelling but no overnight accommo- shells of handsome mid-20th-century villas dation. Getting out there costs about US$50 that speak of happier, carefree times, and of for an all-day trip by 10-person boat. There’s the terrible years of Khmer Rouge rule and also small, beachless Koh Svay (Mango civil war. All built according to the precepts Island), whose summit offers nice views. of the modernist style, with clean lines and The island’s named because locals say it little adornment, they keep the memory of resembles a rabbit – an example of what too Kep’s short and sweet heyday alive. Today much local brew can do to your imagination.
220 e# 0 500 m 0 0.25 miles 66666Kep D ABCD Kampot (25km) Wat Ú# Samathi ÿ#10 NH33A 1 1 66666ÿ#18 ÿ#14 ÿ#19 æ#5 26 17 ú# ÿ# 6666612ÿ# ÿ#11 27 ÿ# 13 ü# 2 Northern Ø# 2 Roundabout Kep National Park 8 ÿ# Main Circuit Trail 25 #ú 20 #÷6 ÿ#9 6464464 666ÿ#1528 #û#ú 23 24 #ú Crab Market Kep National NH33A ÷# Park So u th C oas t KB eapamcphoetsP r o v i nc e 1 Kep Guest House (600m); Sothy's Pepper Farm (19km) 3 Ú# Wat Samot 3 Raingsey 4444Kep Beach ABA Bank Roundabout ATM 6464464 666ÿ##ú#ì#AnaTravel Vietnam Border (30km); 16 22 Ù# D 4 #á ú# 21 NH33A29 f# 44447 4 á# 3 30 # 666666Ù#2 4 Gulf of Thailand 6A B C D Kep Butterfly Farm FARM than it had been for years. It’s still somewhat (កសដិ ្ាឋ នមេអបំ ៅកែប; Jasmine Valley Trail, Kep pebbly and can get packed on weekends. National Park; donations accepted; h9am-6pm) The eastern end of the shaded promenade F This small and beautifully kept flower- along the beach is marked by Sela Cham filled garden is home to myriad butterflies. P’dey, a statue depicting a nude fisher’s wife You can cycle or motorbike here or hike here waiting for her husband to return. from the Kep National Park trail by taking the off-shooting ‘Connection Path’ track. Coconut Beach BEACH r Beaches This ‘beach’ has dining platforms and food shacks, but not really any sand as such. It be- Most of Kep’s beaches are too shallow and gins a few hundred metres southeast of Kep rocky to make for good swimming. It is pos- Beach, just past the town’s famous giant sible to swim off the beach or the jetty at the crab statue. Sailing Club, but the water is particularly shallow here. 2 Activities Sailing Club WATER SPORTS Kep Beach BEACH (%078 333686; www.knaibangchatt.com/the This handkerchief-sized strip of sand is -sailing-club; h8am-5pm) Open to all, the club Kep’s only proper beach. In the pre-war peri- hires out sea kayaks (US$5 per hour), Hobie od, powder-white sand was trucked in from Cats (from US$15 per hour) and windsurfers other beaches and this practice began again (US$12 per hour). Decent mountain bikes in 2013, ensuring the beach is in better shape are also available at US$10 per day.
221 Kep 15 Le Ponton Hotel.......................................A3 16 Saravoan Hotel ........................................A3 æ Top Sights 17 Sea View Bungalows...............................B2 1 Kep National Park................................... B3 18 Tara Lodge ............................................... A1 19 Tree Top Bungalows............................... B1 æ Sights 20 Veranda Natural Resort..........................B2 2 Coconut Beach........................................ C4 ú Eating 3 Giant Crab Statue................................... B4 21 Breezes.....................................................D4 4 Kep Beach................................................ A4 22 Brise de Kep.............................................A3 5 Kep Butterfly Farm..................................C1 23 Crab Market .............................................A2 6 Kep National Park Entrance.................. B2 24 Kimly .........................................................A2 7 Sela Cham P'dey Statue ........................ B4 25 La Baraka..................................................A2 26 Sailing Club ..............................................A2 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours û Drinking & Nightlife 8 Ranch de la Plantation ........................... D2 27 Led Zep Cafe............................................B2 Sailing Club.................................... (see 26) 28 Toucan ......................................................A2 ï Transport ÿ Sleeping 29 Koh Tonsay Boat Ticket Office..............D4 9 Bacoma .................................................... A3 30 Rabbit Island Pier ....................................D4 10 Botanica Guesthouse..............................A1 11 Kimly Lodge............................................. A2 12 Knai Bang Chatt...................................... A2 13 Le Coco De Mer....................................... A2 14 Le Flamboyant Resort.............................A1 Magic Tree TREE CLIMBING near Kompong Trach, and Phnom Chhnork So u th C oas t TKoeapumrpso t P r o v i nc e (p217) and Phnom Sorsia (p218) on the road (%099 896859; maxdiscoverycambodia.wordpress. to Kampot. The best way to see the sights is com; US$8) Max Discovery Cambodia organise to hire one of the many English-speaking re- a range of events and team-building around mork drivers in town (about US$20 per day) Kep, and the Magic Tree is an alternative ex- and tailor your own countryside tour. perience for families. Explore the interior of a huge old ficus tree in Kep National Park with 4 Sleeping safety ropes and instruction. Kep meanders along the shoreline for a good Ranch de la Plantation HORSE RIDING 5km, with resorts and guesthouses speckled along the length of the main road and snug- (%097 847 4960; www.kep-plantation.com; 1/2hr gled along the dirt tracks that wander up the US$20/34; h8am-6pm) Horse rides are avail- hills leading to Kep National Park. able through the lower reaches of Kep Na- tional Park and into the countryside around town. Horses can be a little cantankerous so are more suited to experienced adult riders. oBotanica Guesthouse BUNGALOW $ (%097 899 8614; www.kep-botanica.com; NH33A; r with fan/air-con US$19/29; aWs) A little Marine Conservation way from the action (if Kep can be said to Cambodia VOLUNTEERING have any action), Botanica offers exceptional (www.marineconservationcambodia.org; Koh Seh) value for money with attractive bungalows S Based on the island of Koh Seh (18km from Kep) Marine Conservation Cambodia boasting contemporary bathrooms. There is a small swimming pool and guests can use works to preserve the marine environment free bicycles to hit the beach. around Kep and combat the destruction caused to sealife by illegal fishing. Volunteers can get hands-on practice, getting involved Tree Top Bungalows BUNGALOW $ (%012 515191; www.keptreetop.com; bungalow with patrols to spot illegal fishing, as well with/without bathroom US$25/5, treehouse bunga- as learning about marine conservation and helping with research projects. low from US$10; iW) Chilled out to the max, the bamboo ‘treehouse’ bungalows here are T Tours as quirky as it gets (each pair shares a bath- room). Back down on the ground are solid, Kep makes a good base for visiting Sothy’s roomy bungalows with private bathrooms, Pepper Farm (p215), and several delightful and Kep’s cheapest rooms – shacks separat- cave temples, including Wat Kiri Sela (p224) ed by flimsy partitions.
222 Kimly Lodge GUESTHOUSE $ Le Flamboyant Resort RESORT $$ (%012 721200; www.kimlylodge.com; d US$25, bun- (%017 491010; www.flamboyant-hotel.com; NH33A; galow from US$45; aWs) Smart, good-value d incl breakfast from US$60; naWs) Although rooms with tiled floors, cosy decor and spot- less flamboyant than the name would sug- less bathrooms are a real budget find. Out gest, this attractive, large garden property the back large cottage-style bungalows have (complete with lawn-mowing horse) has a stone-walled bathrooms and little verandahs. boutique resort feel. C ottage-style bungalows have blue accents and wood detailing, and Kep Guest House HOSTEL $ open out onto dinky verandahs. There are (%097 374 8080; www.kepguesthouse.com; NH33A; dm US$5-7, r US$9-17; aW) This mod- two swimming pools, a small spa hut and a good restaurant on site. est hostel is Kep’s nicest backpacker pad with bright, airy and clean rooms, and a dorm with double beds. There’s great sea views Sea View Bungalows RESORT $$ (%097 695 8582; www.seaviewbungalows.com; from the rooftop restaurant. The US$17 bungalows incl breakfast from US$40; aWs) room has air-con. This family-friendly bungalow resort sprawls along the hillside amid a rambling mature Bacoma BUNGALOW $ garden with pool. It’s far enough away to (%088 411 2424; [email protected]; NH33A; r US$10-36; W) Cheap and cheerful rondavels feel secluded, but still central enough to eas- ily walk to Kep’s crab market. Both spacious (circular thatched dwellings) in the garden all family suites and standard bungalows are have mosquito nets and fan, with a generous helping of sparkling clean shared bathrooms. comfortable and kept spick-and-span, though the decor is a bit dull. So u th C oas t SK leaepmeppoi nt gP r o v i nc e There are also roomy bungalows and tradi- tional Khmer houses with private bathroom. Veranda Natural Resort RESORT $$$ (%012 888619; www.veranda-resort.asia; Kep Hill- Le Coco De Mer BUNGALOW $ side Rd; r incl breakfast from US$80; aWs) The (%090 880413; www.lecocodemerbungalows.com; bungalow with fan/air-con incl breakfast US$25/35; hillside bungalows here are built of wood, bamboo and stone, and are connected by a aW) Set in a relaxed, peaceful garden, Le maze of stilted walkways, making it a mem- Coco De Mer is tucked just up the hill from the main road. Simple but sweet wooden orable spot for a romantic getaway. Check out a few rooms because the size, shape and bungalows (fan only), with hammocks strung price vary wildly. The food is excellent and from porch, are delightfully rustic, while spa- cious concrete cottages offer air-con to beat sunset views from the restaurant pavilion are stunning. the Kep heat. oSaravoan Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL Le Ponton Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (%017 780061; www.lepontonhotel.com; bungalow (%036-639 3909; www.saravoanhotel-kep.com; d/ incl breakfast from US$80; naWs) This ho- tw/f US$45/50/55; naWs) This new player on the scene has brought contemporary min- tel radiates an effortless beach-holiday vibe with its colourful lounging areas and very imalist design to Kep. Spacious rooms come attractive pool area. Bungalow-style rooms with polished concrete floors, stone-wall de- tailing and floor-to-ceiling glass doors that with little balconies are simple but chic, and are set within a wonderful tropical garden of open out onto balconies with the best sea blooming flowers and well-tended trees. It’s view in town. The terrace pool area (again with sea views) is just the place to cool off strolling distance to both the crab market and Kep Beach. after exploring Kep National Park. Knai Bang Chatt BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ Tara Lodge GUESTHOUSE $$ (%078 888556; www.knaibangchatt.com; s/d incl (%097 623 6167; www.taralodge-kep.com; d incl breakfast US$50-60, f US$75; naWs) The breakfast from US$188/319; naiWs) Kep’s first stab at a design hotel occupies a cluster of hugely friendly Tara Lodge gets a big tick 1960s waterfront villas, with rooms that could from us for its comfortable, large rooms (with all the mod-cons) secreted within a verdant have fallen out of the pages of a slick maga- zine. For this price though, we would have garden of palms and flowers, and set around expected all the lovely glass to be cleaned to a glistening pool. This is a secluded spot for some serious downtime. The upstairs terrace- properly appreciate the sea views. It’s on the seafront, with only a sliver of a beach. restaurant has wonderful views.
5 Eating 223 Eating at the crab market – a row of wooden La Baraka INTERNATIONAL $$ waterfront restaurants by a wet fish market – (Crab Market; mains US$6-10; h11am-10pm; W) is a quintessential Kep experience. Fresh A breath of fresh air from the crab market’s crabs fried with Kampot pepper are a taste other identikit menus, La Baraka serves up sensation. Crabs are kept alive in pens teth- a mix of European and Asian flavours with ered a few metres off the pebbly beach. You bags of seafood dishes such as swordfish can dine at one of the restaurants or buy carpaccio. For non-fish lovers there’s also crab for around 35,000r a kilo and have your great pizza and pasta. Their terrace, over the guesthouse prepare it. There are lots of great waves, is sunset cocktail perfection. places to choose from at the crab market, so keep an eye on where the Khmer crowd are Breezes FUSION $$ eating. Some of Kep’s hotels offer fine d ining. (NH33A; mains US$5-10; hnoon-9.30pm; W) Knai Bang Chatt’s seafront Strand dining pa- Sitting right on the shoreline, this inviting vilion and Veranda Natural Resort are a cou- alfresco restaurant on the road out towards ple of the top tables, and have great views the Rabbit Island pier boasts sleek furnish- to boot. ings, excellent food and fine views of Rab- bit Island. Dishes are Asian (not necessarily Khmer), Western and fusion. oKimly SEAFOOD $$ Brise de Kep INTERNATIONAL $$ (%036-904077; Crab Market; mains US$2.50- 8; h10am-10pm) Of the longest-running (%036-633 6339; Kep Beach; mains US$3-9; h7am-10pm) Mixing up a selection of French restaurant-shacks in the crab market, this is and Asian dishes, this restaurant with sea the one most recommended by locals. Kim- views is strong on seafood specials, includ- ly does crab every which way – 27 ways, to ing tuna, barracuda and shellfish. So u th C oas t EKaeatpmipnogt P r o v i nc e be exact – all for US$6 to US$7, or supersize it for an extra two bucks. The Kampot pep- oSailing Club FUSION $$ (mains US$7-12.50; h10am-10pm; W) With a per crab is truly mouth-watering. small beach, breezy wooden bar and a wooden GETTING TO VIETNAM: KEP TO HA TIEN Getting to the border The Prek Chak–Xa Xia border crossing (h6am-5.30pm) has become a popular option for linking Kampot and Kep with Ha Tien, and then onwards to either the popular Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc, or to Ho Chi Minh City. The easiest way to get to the Prek Chak border and on to Ha Tien, Vietnam, is to catch a minivan from Phnom Penh (US$16, five hours), Sihanoukville (US$16, four hours), Kampot (US$8, 1½ hours) or Kep (US$5, one hour) to the border. Virak Buntham (p84) plies this route from Phnom Penh. From Kampot and Kep, Kampot Tours & Travel (p217) are the most reliable service. Note that even travellers who’ve bought a through ticket to Ho Chi Minh City or Phu Quoc usually have to change buses at the border. A more flexible alternative from Phnom Penh or Kampot is to take any bus to Kompong Trach, then a moto (about US$3) for 15km, on a good road, to the border. In Kep, guesthouses can arrange a direct remork (US$13, one hour) or taxi (US$20, 30 minutes). Rates and times are almost double from Kampot. Private vehicles take a new road that cuts south to the border 10km west of Kompong Trach. At the border Vietnam grants 15-day visas on arrival for nationals of several European and Asian countries. Other nationalities, and anyone staying longer than 15 days, must purchase a visa in advance. At Prek Chak, motos ask US$5 to take you to the Vietnamese border post 300m past the Cambodian one, and then all the way to Ha Tien (15 minutes, 7km). You’ll save money walking across no-man’s land and picking up a moto on the other side for US$2 to US$3. Moving on Travellers bound for Phu Quoc should arrive in Ha Tien no later than 12.30pm to secure a ticket on the 1pm ferry (230,000d or about US$11, 1½ hours). Extreme early risers may be able to make it to Ha Tien in time to catch the 8am ferry. The scheduled buses from Cambodia to Ha Tien arrive before the 1pm boat departs.
224 Motorbike rental is US$5 to US$7 per day; ask jetty poking out into the sea, this is one of your guesthouse or any travel agency. Cambodia’s top sundowner spots. The Asian fusion food is excellent and you can get your Around Kep crab fix here too. Try the Kep Special Fish (served in a Kampot pepper and coconut Wat Kiri Sela BUDDHIST TEMPLE sauce) for a local taste sensation. 6 Drinking & Nightlife (វត្តគ ិរសី ិលា; h7am-6pm) This Buddhist tem- ple sits at the foot of Phnom Kompong Trach, Toucan BAR a dramatic karst formation riddled with more (Crab Market; h11am-midnight; W) The terrace than 100 caverns and passageways. From the here is the best spot for a drink (or five) once the sun goes down. There’s usually a few punt- wat, an underground passage leads to a fish- bowl-like formation, surrounded by vine- ers propping up the bar until midnight or so, draped cliffs and open to the sky. Various which counts as a late night for Kep. stalactite-laden caves shelter reclining Buddhas and miniature Buddhist shrines. Led Zep Cafe CAFE The closest town is Kompong Trach. From (Kep National Park; h9.30am-6pm) A lovely, se- here, take the dirt road opposite the Acleda cluded cafe on the Kep National Park trail. Enjoying a chilled lime juice on the wide Bank, on NH33 in the town centre, for 2km. Kompong Trach is 28km northeast of Kep terrace with knock-out views overlooking the on NH33, making it an easy day trip from coast is the perfect pick-me-up after a hike. both Kep and Kampot. At the wat, note that friendly local kids So u th C oas t DTAarkoi neukonidnP rgKoe&vpiNnicgeht l i f e 88 Information with torches (flashlights), keen to put their evening-school English to use, are eager to For all things Kep-related, www.visitkep.com serve as guides. Make sure you tip them if is a useful online resource. you use them. There’s no bank in Kep but there is an ABA Bank ATM (h24 hr) at Kep Beach. Nearly all hotels and many restaurants have free wi-fi. 88 Getting There & Around TAKEO PROVINCE Kep is 25km from Kampot and 41km from the Often referred to as ‘the cradle of Cambodian Prek Chak–Xa Xia border crossing to Vietnam. civilisation’, Takeo Province (ខេតត្ត ាកែវ) was Buses stop at Kep Beach in front of a line of travel agencies which all sell bus and minibus part of what Chinese annals called ‘water tickets. Ana Travel (% 036-652 3999; Kep Chenla’, no doubt a reference to the exten- Beach; h9am-6pm) has the best onward bus sive annual floods that still blanket much information. You can also purchase bus tickets of the area. Today this impoverished rural from most guesthouses. province is a backwater that sees few tour- ists. Those who do make it here get some Phnom Penh Sorya (p84) and Hua Lian (Map of Cambodia’s most ancient and fascinating p46; %223025; Monireth Blvd & Olympic Stadi- temples virtually to themselves. um) buses head to Phnom Penh at 7.30am, 1pm and 2.30pm (US$5, four hours). A private taxi to The temples of Tonlé Bati (p90) and Phnom Penh (2½ hours) costs US$40 to US$45. Phnom Chisor (p91) lie in Takeo but are usu- ally visited as day trips from Phnom Penh. Virak Buntham’s (p199) Ha Tien– Sihanoukville bus rumbles through Kep Takeo តាកែវ at 7.30pm (US$7, three hours). However, it’s more comfortable to take the minivan services % 032 / POP 40,000 to Sihanoukville (US$6 to US$7, 2½ hours) via Kampot (US$3, ½ hour) run by Kampot Tours There’s not much happening at all in the & Travel (Map p190; % in Kampot 092 125556; languid, lakeside provincial capital of Takeo, Ana Travel, Serendipity Beach Rd) and Champa but it makes a good base from which to take Mekong Travel (p217) departing at 10.30am and a motorboat ride to the pre-Angkorian tem- 2.30pm. ples of Angkor Borei (p227) and Phnom Da (p227) and experience river life. A remork to Kampot costs about US$12; The main attraction in town is eating private taxis are US$20. Remorks hang out at freshwater lobster on the waterfront (rainy Kep Beach roundabout. There are very few moto season only). drivers in town.
225 Takeo e#0 500 m A 0 0.25 miles 1 BCD 666TaMok's 2 House (1km)NH2 Boats to Boeung ú#4 f##úA5ngkor Borei D St 2 Canal No.15 Lakefront Promenade ï# St 11 3#úÿ#St 9 1 St 12 ð# St 4 2 St 14 St 15 St 3 St 5 1 St16 666NH2 1 1St 71 1 1 18 1 1 St #æ 1 St 16 durUin(nJgduewlr-Newtoasvet)earson 2 6 St 10 ì#Canadia Bank 3 Share Psar 3 Taxis Thmei ˜# # So u th C oas t TSai gkhetosP&r oAvcitnicv ei t i e s ABCD 1 Sights & Activities Takeo Although it’s nothing compared to Kampot, æ Sights some attractive French-era shophouses, 1 Independence Monument ...................C2 slowly slouching into genteel decay, line the streets around Psar Nat. The building hous- ÿ Sleeping ing Psar Nat itself is a concrete monstros- 2 Daunkeo Guesthouse........................... C1 ity built after the overthrow of the Khmer Rouge. ú Eating 3 Delikes.................................................... C1 Ta Mok’s House HISTORIC BUILDING 4 Psar Nat ................................................. C1 5 Stung Takeo .......................................... C1 (ផទ្ ះតាម៉ុក; h7am-5pm) F A pleasant stroll via a 150m-long railings-free bridge takes you to the house of Takeo Province’s most notorious native son, Ta Mok (aka ‘The US$17/13; iW) This popular and friendly Butcher’), the Khmer Rouge commander of family homestay has 11 rooms in a spacious the Southwestern Zone, where he presided compound located just off the road between over horrific atrocities. Ta Mok’s House is Angk Tasaom and Takeo. The rates include now occupied by a police training facility, some delicious home-cooked Khmer food but you can wander around the grounds. Ta and cooking classes are available. It’s possi- Mok also had a residence near Anlong Veng. ble to volunteer to teach English at the local school. 4 Sleeping Daunkeo Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ Few people stay overnight in Takeo as it is (%032-210303; www.daunkeo.com; St 9; s/d with day-tripping distance from Phnom Penh or fan US$6/8, with air-con US$13/15; aW) The a brief detour on a road trip south to Kep smartest guesthouse in Takeo, Daunkeo is or Kampot. spread over three modern villas. Spotlessly clean and efficiently run, its air-con rooms Meas Family Homestay HOMESTAY $ include satellite TV and hot-water show- (%011 925428; http://cambodianhomestay.com; Ang Tasaom District; adult/child incl all meals ers. Anoint yourself a VIP with a suite-like room for just US$25.
226 GETTING TO VIETNAM: TAKEO TO CHAU DOC Getting to the border The remote and seldom-used Phnom Den–Tinh Bien border crossing (h7am-5pm) between Cambodia and Vietnam lies about 60km southeast of Takeo town in Cambodia and offers connections to Chau Doc. Most travellers prefer the Mekong crossing at Kaam Samnor or the newer Prek Chak crossing near Ha Tien to the south. Take a share taxi (10,000r), a chartered taxi (US$25) or a moto (US$10) from Takeo to the border (48km). At the border Several European and Asian nationalities can get 15-day Vietnam visas on arrival; everyone else needs to arrange one in advance. Coming into Cambodia from Vietnam, note that e-visas are not accepted for entry here. Moving on Travellers are at the mercy of Vietnamese xe om (moto) drivers and taxis for the 30km journey from the border to Chau Doc. Prepare for some tough negotiations. Expect to pay somewhere between US$5 and US$10 by bike, more like US$20 for a taxi. So u th C oas t AETantkgieknoogrP rBoovrienic&e P hn o m D a 5 Eating 88 Getting There & Around There are food stalls around Independence Takeo is on NH2, 77km south of Phnom Penh, Monument. In the evening, this is the place 40km north of Kirivong and 48km north of the to snack on Cambodian desserts or enjoy a Phnom Den-Tinh Bien border crossing to Vietnam. tukalok (fruit shake). No bus company currently serves Takeo. To Stung Takeo CAMBODIAN $ Phnom Penh direct, take a shared taxi (US$5 per (St 9; small/large mains US$3/5; h7am-9pm) seat, US$25 for the whole taxi) from a lot (NH3) Perched over the seasonal lake, this is eas- in front of Psar Thmei (Central Market, NH2). For ily Takeo’s best restaurant for both food and a more roundabout journey, hop on a nine-seater ambience. The seafood-heavy menu is full of remork (seat 2000r) from Psar Thmei, a remork traditional local flavour, such as squid and (US$4) from Psar Thmei or the hospital or a Kampot pepper. This is also the place to moto (US$3) wherever you spot one, and head come for remarkably good – and affordable – to Angk Tasaom; the chaotic transport junction freshwater lobster. The season for these 13km west of Takeo on NH3. Here you can flag toothsome creatures is approximately down both northbound buses to Phnom Penh and August to November. southbound buses to Kampot and Kep. Delikes INTERNATIONAL $ Occasional share taxis (10,000r) and mini- (St 10; mains US$2-5; h6am-8pm; W) This vans (5000r) make the 45-minute trip down to small place serves excellent Asian break- Kirivong, or you can hire a moto for US$10. To fasts, tasty fresh spring rolls and salads, and get to the Phnom Den–Tinh Bien border crossing a range of pizzas. Their green mango and for Vietnam, go to Kirivong and switch to a moto dried shrimp salad makes for a light but fla- (US$2) for the final 8km. A private taxi to Kirivong vourful lunch. is US$20, plus US$5 more to the border. Psar Nat MARKET $ Angkor Borei & Phnom Da (St 10; h6am-about 8pm) The food court here has a dozen stalls that are great for breakfast Angkor Borei was known as Vyadhapura soup, num kong (delectably chewy Khmer when it served as the capital of ‘water Chen- doughnuts) and num kroch (fried dump- la’ in the 8th century. It was also an impor- lings filled with beans and palm sugar). tant centre during the earlier Funan period (1st to 6th centuries), when Indian religion 88 Information and culture were carried to the Mekong Delta by traders, artisans and priests from Canadia Bank (NH2; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to India, as the great maritime trade route 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) between India and China passed by the Me- Takeo Tourism (% 032-931323; h7.30-11am kong Delta. The earliest datable Khmer in- & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-11am Sat & Sun) May scription (AD 611) was discovered here and be able to arrange an English-speaking guide hints of this past greatness can be found in (US$15 to US$20) to the temples. the 5.7km moated wall that still surrounds this impoverished riverine townlet.
227 The 45-minute open-air motorboat ride to in the dry season but surrounded by flooded rice reach here from Takeo, along Canal No 15, fields the rest of the year. In the rainy season the dug in the 1880s, is one of the best oppor- water can get rough in the afternoon, so it’s a tunities you’ll have in Cambodia to see rural good idea to head out early. riverside living. Today Angkor Borei is home to a small archaeological museum display- Angkor Borei can also be reached year-round ing local Funan and Chenla era artefacts. In via a circuitous land route from the north. wet season, when the water levels are high enough, the boat then continues for 15 min- When the water levels are too low you will have utes to Phnom Da, with its temple featuring to travel by moto for the 10-minute ride from striking bas-reliefs and ancient hand-cut Angkor Borei to Phnom Da (US$5 return). caves. When arriving by boat isn’t possible, you can hop on a moto at Angkor Borei. Phnom Bayong & Around ភំន្បាយង៉ ់កោរ 1 Sights Affording breathtaking views of Vietnam’s pancake-flat Mekong Delta, the cliff-ringed summit of Phnom Bayong (313m) is graced Angkor Borei by a 7th-century Chenla temple built to celebrate a victory over Funan. The linga Archaeological Museum MUSEUM (សារមនរីទ្ បុរាណវទិ ្យាអងរ្គ បុរ;ី %012 201638; admission US$1; h8am-4.30pm) This modest originally in the inner chamber is now in archaeological museum occupies a Khmer- Paris’ Musée Guimet, but a number of flora- style building a bit east of Angkor Borei’s and fauna-themed bas-relief panels can road bridge. Featured inside are locally dis- still be seen; for example, on the lintels of covered Funan- and Chenla-era artefacts, the three false doorways, and carved into including human bones, pottery, jewellery the brickwork. So u th C oas t SPTaihgknheotomsPBraoyvoi ncge& A r o u nd and stone carvings. The dark-red statues are The sweltering climb up to the temple copies of important works now in Phnom takes about 1½ hours (bring plenty of wa- Penh’s National Museum (p42) or Paris’ ter), or you can hire a moto in Kirivong to Musée Guimet. take you up in less than 20 minutes (US$10). It’s a treacherous path, which explains the Phnom Da TEMPLE high price. (ប្រាសាទភ្នំដា; admission US$2) The twin hills Gentle Kirivong Waterfall (Chruos of Phnom Da are spectacularly isolated Mont-St-Michel-style by annual floods. One Phaok Waterfall) is reached by a 1.5km ac- cess road that begins about 1km south of hill is topped by a temple whose founda- Kirivong. Market stalls here sell the area’s tions date from the 6th century, although the temple itself was rebuilt in the 11th most famous products: topaz and quartz, either cut like gems or carved into tiny Bud- century. Exceptionally, the temple entrance dhas and nagas. It’s a popular destination faces north; the other three sides have blind doors decorated with bas-relief nagas. for locals on a day out. Five artificial caves pockmark the two 88 Getting There & Away hills, used for centuries as Hindu and Bud- dhist shrines and, during the Vietnam War, Phnom Bayong is about 3km west of the north- as hideouts by the Viet Cong. ern edge of Kirivong; the turnoff is marked by a Phnom Da’s finest bas-relief carvings are painted panel depicting the temple. not in situ, having been taken to museums in Angkor Borei, Phnom Penh and Paris. Kirivong is on NH2, 40km south of Takeo and Nearby, on the second hillock, is 8m-high 8km north of the Phnom Den–Tinh Bien border Wat Asram Moha Russei, a restored Hindu crossing. From Takeo, a moto to Kirivong costs sanctuary that probably dates from around about US$10 (US$15 return). AD 700. Infrequent minibuses and share taxis to 88 Getting There & Away Phnom Penh (via Takeo) leave from Kirivong’s Ton Lop Market on NH2 in the centre of town. Hiring a boat from Takeo’s dock costs around US$35 return for up to four people. The canal To get to the Vietnam border, a moto (US$2) leading out to Angkor Borei is clearly delineated from Kirivong is the best bet. Coming from the border, you may have to ask the Cambodian border officials to call a moto or taxi to pick you up.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Northwestern Cambodia POP 4 MILLION / AREA 71,157 SQ KM Includes Why Go? Kompong Chhnang. . . 229 Looking for temples without the tourist hordes? The re- Pursat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 mote temples of Northwest Cambodia are a world apart. Battambang . . . . . . . . 236 While hilltop Prasat Preah Vihear is the big-hitter, the other Pailin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 temple complexes – wrapped by vines and half-swallowed Poipet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 by jungle – are all fabulous to explore. Sisophon. . . . . . . . . . . 252 Banteay Chhmar . . . . 254 In the region’s heart is Tonlé Sap, one of the world’s Dangrek Mountains. . . 258 most fish-rich lakes and a birder’s paradise. Boat trips from Preah Vihear City. . . . 259 Kompong Chhnang and Krakor (near Pursat) to the rickety Prasat Preah Vihear. . 260 floating villages that cluster along this important waterway Kompong Thom. . . . . 265 allow you to dip your toes in lake life. Best Temples When forays into the region’s far-flung corners are com- plete, the Northwest has one more surprise up its sleeve. ¨¨Prasat Preah Vihear (p262) Laid-back Battambang, with its colonial architecture and ¨¨Banteay Chhmar (p254) burgeoning arts scene, is the main city here. There’s a wealth ¨¨Sambor Prei Kuk (p267) of brilliant sights all within day-tripping distance from ¨¨Preah Khan (p263) town – making it a worthy pit stop after all the hard trav- ¨¨Banteay Top (p254) elling is done. When to Go Rainfall inches/mm 16/400 Battambang 12/300 °C/°F Temp 40/104 30/86 Best Local Life 20/68 8/200 ¨¨Banteay Chhmar 10/50 4/100 Homestay (p255) 0/32 J F MAM J 0 ¨¨Phoum Kandal & Chong J ASOND Kos Floating Villages (p229) Dec & Jan Head Aug & Sep Rainy Nov Best for ¨¨Soksabike (p240) to remote temples season is in full back-country to explore while throttle in lush exploration, with ¨¨Isanborei (p268) pleasant tempera- countryside stud- roads neither too tures prevail. ded with palms. muddy nor too dusty.
KOMPONG CHHNANG 229 PROVINCE bicycle tour makes for a rewarding circuit. There are no road signs, so it’s a good idea Kompong Chhnang Province (ខេតត្កំពងឆ់ ្ាន ងំ ) to go with a local. is a relatively wealthy province, thanks to its oPhoum Kandal & proximity to the capital, its fishing and ag- ricultural industries and abundant water Chong Kos Floating Villages VILLAGE resources. Much less visited than other floating villages, the Tonlé Sap River hamlets of Phoum Kandal (ភមូ កិ ណ្ាដ ល) and Chong Kos (ចងុ កោះ) are a colourful vision of brightly painted wooden houses, with tiny terraces strung with ham- Kompong Chhnang កំពងឆ់ ្នា ងំ mocks, all built on rickety DIY pontoons. To fully explore the villages, hire a wooden boat % 026 / POP 45,000 (with captain) at Kompong Chhnang dock (US$10 per hour, up to three people) to pad- While nothing much may be happening dle you through these fully buoyant towns, in the sleepy centre of Kompong Chhnang complete with shops, satellite TV – check out (Clay Pot Port), the bustling dock on the the ingenious bamboo electricity poles! – and Tonlé Sap River is the jumping-off point for mobile vegetable vendors. serene boat rides to two floating villages. A one-hour boat ride will allow you to see Skimming through the watery streets in a one village; with 1½ or two hours, you have tiny wooden paddle-boat as the late after- enough time to visit both. Bigger, motorised noon sun sends a shimmer over the river is tourist boats are available for river tours for a gorgeous way to end a day. US$15 per hour, but these only circle the pe- rimeter of the villages. Hiring a paddle-boat is Outside of town you’ll find a lush land- a more tranquil option: you can glides within scape of yellow-green rice fields. Here, in the maze of watery streets to glimpse how the tiny hamlets where cows slumber beside village life functions when everything floats. curvaceous hay bales, the area’s distinctive pottery is crafted underneath stilted homes, providing another reason to linger. 1 Sights Combining Ondong Rossey and Phnom Santuk for a moto (motorcycle taxi) or N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia KS oi gmhptosn g C hh n a n g P r o v i n c ePhoum Kandal (directly southeast of the boat dock) is an ethnic Vietnamese village, D while Chong Kos (to the north) is Khmer. Kompong Chhnang NH5 Ondong Rossey VILLAGE e# 0 500 m (អណ្ដូ ងឫស្សី) The quiet village of Ondong 0 0.25 miles Rossey, where the area’s famous red pottery is made under every house, is a delightful DA Psar Krom (600m); B 7km ride west of town through serene rice River Port (1.5km); Phoum Kandal & Chong Kos fields dotted with sugar palms, many with 1 Floating Villages (1.5km) bamboo ladders running up the trunk. The 1 unpainted pots, decorated with etched or Bus Ticket ›# appliqué designs, are either turned with a Stand foot-spun wheel (for small pieces) or banged 5 #ú #ú3 #ú 4 into shape with a heavy wooden spatula (for ò#˜# #ìAcleda Bank OndongD Taxi large ones). Rossey Park The golden-hued mud piled up in the 662 (7km) # yards is quarried at nearby Phnom Krang Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument 2 Dai Meas and pounded into fine clay be- Independence fore being shaped and fired; only at the last 66# Monument Kompong Chhnang ñ# 1 ÿ# î# Hospital ÿ Sleeping Prison St ì# ÿ# 2 1 Chanthea Borint Hotel .........................A3 Canadia 2 Sovann Phum Hotel..............................B3 3 Bank 3 ú Eating 3 Phnom Mea Bakery ..............................B2 Udong (45km) 4 Psar Leu ................................................. B1 AB 5 Soksan Restaurant...............................A2
230 0 THAILAND Chong Chom 0 O Smach North- 50 km western Aranya 25 miles Cambodia Prathet Highlights Banteay Chhmar Protected Landscape 1 Chilling out Samraong amid the colonial- NH56 tinged charms of ODDAR Battambang (p236), Banteay MEANCHEY surrounded by Chhmar verdant countryside Banteay Top and hilltop temples. Thmor NH68 2 Soaking up the Puok stupendous vistas NH69 Ang Trapeng from atop Prasat ReTshemrvoer Preah Vihear’s (p262) dramatic BANTEAY mountain perch. MEANCHEY 3 Gliding on Poipet Prey Mon a paddle-boat through the watery NH5 Sisophon Kralanh thoroughfares of Phoum Kandal and Mongkol Borei NH6 Chong Kos floating villages, just outside BATTAMBANG Kouk Kduoch Wat Ek Prek Toal Kompong Chhnang Phnom Bird Sanctuary (p229). NH59 4 Exploring the vine-entwined brick Kamrieng NH5 Wat Somrong temples of Southeast Knong Asia’s first temple Daun Phnom Battambang city: the impressive Lem Sampeau pre-Angkorian ruins Kamping Poy (762m) of Sambor Prei Kuk (p267). Ban Pakard Phnom Sneng Sangker Reang 5 Admiring Psar Pruhm Krapeu NH57 Kesei the intricate N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia CKS oiagmhbptosdn iga CHhi hg hnlaingghtPsr o v i n c e Avalokiteshvara bas- Prasat reliefs at the massive Banan 12th-century complex Pailin Moung of Banteay Chhmar Russei (p254). Phnom Keu PAILIN Treng 6 Traversing the Waterfall Samlaut lonely road out to Preah Khan (p264) Samlaut to stand in awe at Multiple Use Stung its mighty, jungle- Area encroached gopura r d amo mn oCmhhMrMokooPuurennalttaai (entrance pavilion). Ca h u or Ph in s (C ns Phnom Samkos Forest ( Rovieng ( Ranger TraWt ildlife Sanctuary Pramoay SttuhnisgaPt ou Station Thma Da Phnom Samkos Kravanh (1717m) Ou Som Ranger Station Ranger u n tai Station ountai n Ko Chang Mo n s om mM s C(aCrhduaomr Ph n o Phnom Knang Central Trapeang Cardamoms (1213m) Protected Forest Khlong Yai Thma Bang Cham Ko Kut Hat Lek Yeam Koh Kong Gulf of Thailand Peam Krasaop KOH KONG Wildlife Sanctuary NH48 Botum Sakor National Park
Dangrek Mountains 231 (Chuor Phnom Dangrek) Chong Prasat Preah Anh LAOS Sa Ngam Khmer Rouge Vihear Seh Sites Muang Choam Kor Muy Choam Emerald Khong Ksant Triangle Preah Vihear Anlong Veng Sra Em Prasat Protected Forest Neak Kulen Promtep Buos NH67 Wildlife Sanctuary Prey Veng Tmatboey Ibis PREAH Veal Krous Kulen Project VIHEAR Vulture Feeding Station SIEM Koh Ker Preah Vihear Chhep REAP City NH64 Kbal Phnom Kulen Srayong STUNG Spean National Park TRENG Banteay Svay Phonom Srei Leu Spean Ta Ong SangkomTbeng NH62 NH67 Phnom Kulen Thmei Svay Pak Angkor (487m) Preah Beng Khan Ta Seng Rovieng Siem Reap NH64 Mealea KhvauNH66 Phnom Roluos Toll Road Phnom StSuenng Dek Krom Dam Dek Spean Praptos Floating Kompong NH62 Village of Pluk Kompong Sambor Chong Kneas Prei Kuk Tonlé Sap Kdei KOMPONG KRATIE Stung Chikreng Bengal THOM Florican Conservation Stoeng Area (BFCA) N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia SK oi gmhptosn g C hh n a n g P r o v i n c e Boeng Tonlé Chhmar NH6 Wildlife Sanctuary Prasat Kompong Thom Andet Phnom Santuk Kompong Kakaoh NH5 Luong Pursat Krakor Tonlé Sap Chheu Baray PURSAT Tom Ondong KompRoinvegr NH6 Spoe Tbong Mekong River Phnom Aural Chhuk Laeng Rossey Stung Cascades Prasat Kuha Trang Nokor Chhnang Wildlife KOMPONG Sanctuary Romeas NH5 NH7 CHAM Phnom Aural Skuon Kompong Cham (1813m) Prek Spaen Dach KOMPONG Kdam Chub CHHNANG Udong Ferry Krau Sanghea Satob KOMPONG PHNOM PENH NH43 SPEU NH44 Killing Fields of Choeung Ek Kompong Speu NH1 Prey Veng PREY KANDAL VENG SVAY RIENG Kirirom NH4 Tonlé Ba Phnom National Treng Trayern NH3 Park NH21
232 Canadia Bank (NH5; h 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, stage does it acquire a pinkish hue. Pieces to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) can be purchased at the Pottery Devel- opment Center, although you’ll get better 88 Getting There & Away deals buying directly from the pottery mak- ers at their houses. Kompong Chhnang is 91km north of Phnom Penh, 93km southeast of Pursat and 198km Phnom Santuk VIEWPOINT southeast of Battambang. b(ភeh្នសំ inនdទកុ្ W) aPthnSoamntuSkan, tiuska, a rocky hillock BUS few kilometres You can buy tickets for Rith Mony and several southwest of Kompong Chhnang. The other companies at the bus stand (NH5) – a b oulder-strewn summit affords fine views of vendor-cart with bus company signage in the countryside, including Tonlé Sap, 20km front – found north of the taxi park. You can to the north. also flag down buses on the NH5 at the Acleda Bank corner. 4 Sleeping & Eating Buses south to Phnom Penh (12,000r, two There are plenty of food stalls at the two hours), and north to Pursat (12,000r, two hours) markets, Psar Leu (h7am-6pm) and Psar and Battambang (20,000r, 3½ hours) pull Krom (h6am-6pm). through town hourly throughout the day. Chanthea Borint Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ TAXI (%026-988622; [email protected]; Prison St; The fastest way to get to Phnom Penh is by r with fan/air-con US$8/15; naW) Set in a share taxi (20,000r, 1½ hours). They wait at the shady garden, this 30-room family pad taxi park west of Psar Leu. Share taxis do not offers the most charming and friendly ac- generally serve destinations to the northwest, commodation in town. The rooms are small such as Battambang. but tidy and well cared for. The restaurant serves breakfast only. 88 Getting Around N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia PS luerespaitn Pgr&oEvai ntci neg Sovann Phum Hotel HOTEL $ A several-hour remork tour taking in the pottery (%026-989333; [email protected]; villages and Phnom Santuk costs around US$8. NH5; r with fan/air-con from US$8/15; aiW) A moto should be about US$5. A moto/remork to A step up from most Kompong Chhnang the port is US$1/2 one way. options in cleanliness and style, this is a popular spot for the NGO crowd. It has 30 Chanthea Borint Hotel rents bicycles (US$2 for the day). good-sized rooms with modern bathrooms and plenty of light, plus a decent restaurant. Soksan Restaurant CAMBODIAN $ PURSAT PROVINCE (NH5; mains US$2-2.50; h6am-8pm) It lacks English signage but there’s an English Pursat Province (ខេតពត្ ោធ៍ិសាត់), Cambodia’s menu at this restaurant next to Kompong Chhnang’s taxi park. It specialises in fried fourth-largest, stretches from the remote everything, and soups – or be adventurous forests of Phnom Samkos, on the Thai bor- and order the porcupine fish with omelette. der, eastwards to the fishing villages and marshes of Tonlé Sap lake. Famed for its or- Phnom Mea Bakery BAKERY $ anges, it encompasses the northern reaches (NH5; baked goods 2000-5000r; h7am-5pm) of the Cardamom Mountains, linked with the town of Pursat by disreputable roads. This little place turns out freshly baked ba- guettes, sandwiches, pastries and tasty piz- za. An excellent option for packed lunches. Pursat ពោធិស៍ ាត់ % 052 / POP 38,000 8 Information You know you’ve hit Pursat when huge mar- ble monument shops begin to rim the roads – Remork-moto (tuk tuk) driver Channy (% 077 if you’re in the market for a life-size statue of 357361; [email protected]) is the one-stop a rearing horse, you’re in the right place. This shop for all things informative about Kompong dusty provincial capital, known for its carv- Chhnang. He hangs out near the taxi park when ers, is no beauty but it makes a good base for he’s not with customers. a day trip to the floating village of Kompong Acleda Bank (NH5; h 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to Luong or an expedition into the wilds of the 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) Central Cardamoms Protected Forest.
233 Pursat e# 0 500 m A 0 0.25 miles BCD 1 66Hospital î# ú#6 Battambang (105km) # 2 10 Khmer Rouge–Era Dam ˜# 1 £# Train ß# Cham Station Mosque 2 3 66St209 Department #÷ A of Tourism D ñ# #ï 1 #æ St 208 Pursat Pursat River 2 High School #þ7 ˜#12 St 109 St St 202 St 105NH5201 Pheng Ky St 104 ð#Computer St 103 ÿ# ÿ# St 101 St 10243 #ì 5 Canadia ˜# ÿ# Bank 11 ›# ›# 3 Krakor 9 8 D(32km) BCD 1 Sights Pursat N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia SP iugrhstast P r o v i n c e Koh Sampovmeas PARK æ Sights 1 Bun Rany Hun Sen (កោះសំពៅមាស, Golden Ship Island) This bi- Development Centre .........................B2 zarre island-park, built up in the shape of 2 Koh Sampovmeas ................................ D1 a ship, is Pursat’s place to see and be seen towards sunset. Young locals drop by for ÿ Sleeping aerobics (classes from 5pm) or a game of 3 KM Hotel ................................................C3 badminton, while power-walkers pound the 4 Phnom Pech Hotel................................C3 circuit between the manicured lawns and 5 Thansour Thmey Hotel ........................C3 Khmer-style pavilions. ú Eating Bun Rany Hun Sen 6 Magic Fish Restaurant ......................... D1 Reak Smey Angkor Development Centre ARTS CENTRE Restaurant .................................. (see 4) (St 109; h7-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 7-11am Sat) þ Shopping Teaches cloth and mat weaving, sewing, 7 Psar Chaa...............................................C2 marble carving and other artisanal skills to young people, and sells the items they make ï Transport from a large shop on premises. There are 8 Phnom Penh Sorya...............................C3 some real bargains here on beautiful krama 9 Rith Mony...............................................C3 (chequered scarves) and baskets. Travellers 10 Taxis to Battambang............................A2 are welcome to visit classes. 11 Taxis to Phnom Penh ...........................C3 12 Taxis to Pramoay..................................C2 4 Sleeping & Eating KM Hotel HOTEL $ (%052-953168; www.kmhotel.com.kh; St 101; r US$20, deluxe US$45; aWs) Bringing a showers, are a let-down, but we’re not com- whole new level of comfort to Pursat’s hotel plaining because look outside and you’ll scene, this 146-roomed hotel is ridiculously find not one but two huge swimming pools. good value, with mammoth rooms hosting Thansour Thmey Hotel HOTEL $ (%012 962395; [email protected]; St flatscreen TVs and new beds that guarantee 102; r with fan/air-con US$7/15; aW) Hello, a contented sleep. The bathrooms, with old
234 THE KHMER ROUGE AIRPORT The Khmer Rouge were not known as great builders, but in 1977 and 1978 slave labourers built an airfield using cement of such high quality that even today the 2440m runway and access roads look like they were paved just last week. No one knows for sure but it seems that Kompong Chhnang Airport (KZC), never operational under the Khmer Rouge, was intended to serve as a base for launching air attacks against Vietnam. Chinese engineers oversaw the work of tens of thousands of Cambodians suspected of disloyalty to the Khmer Rouge. Anyone unable to work was killed, often with a blow to the head delivered with a bamboo rod. In early 1979, as Vietnamese forces approached, almost the entire workforce was executed. Estimates of the number of victims, buried nearby in mass graves, range from 10,000 to 50,000. In the late 1990s, a plan to turn the airport into a cargo hub for air-courier companies came to nought. These days, local teenagers come out here to tool around on their mo- torbikes while cows graze between the taxiway and the runway. On sunny days the sun creates convincing mirages. On an anonymous slope a few kilometres away, the Khmer Rouge dug a cave – said to be 3km deep – apparently for the purpose of storing weapons flown in from China. Now home to swirling bats, it can be explored with a torch (flashlight) – but lacking ventilation, it gets very hot and humid. On a hillside near a cluster of bullet-pocked cement barracks, stripped of anything of value, is a massive cement water tank. Inside it’s a remarkable echo chamber. The airport is about 12km west of town. Take NH5 towards Battambang for 7km and then turn left onto a concrete road. N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia PI nufrosramt aPtri o nv i n c e classic Khmer wood carvings. If you’ve around the province, including to more remote always wanted to sleep in an intricately bits such as the Cardamoms. carved bed, now is your chance. Rooms Canadia Bank (NH5; h 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, are tidy and the restaurant, which serves to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) Khmer and Chinese dishes (mains 10,000r Department of Tourism (% 012 838854; h7- to 16,000r), is one of the best in Pursat. 11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Has a booklet on Pursat sightseeing and a map of the province and city. Phnom Pech Hotel HOTEL $ (%052-951515; St 101; r with fan US$8, with air- 88 Getting There & Around con US$13-15; aW) This long-running local has clean, though tired, rooms. The friendly Pursat is 105km southeast of Battambang and manager is quite helpful with travel advice. 185km northwest of Phnom Penh along NH5. Reak Smey Angkor Buses pass through Pursat virtually all day long, shuttling southeast to Kompong Chhnang and Restaurant CAMBODIAN $ Phnom Penh (20,000r, four hours) hourly; and (St 101; mains 4000-8000r; h7am-9pm) Huge- north to Battambang (15,000r, 1½ hours), hourly ly popular with Khmer tour groups, this from around 11am onwards. Phnom Penh Sorya family-run restaurant dishes up an exten- (NH5) has direct trips to Kompong Cham (US$9, sive menu of local favourites, with plenty of six hours, 11.30am) and Siem Reap (US$6, five noodle soups and fried-rice options. There’s hours, 7.30am) via Battambang. also a small menu of omelettes and West- ern breakfast plates. Share taxis serve Phnom Penh (24,000r, three hours) from NH5 just east of the bridge. Share Magic Fish Restaurant CAMBODIAN $ taxis to Battambang (16,000r, two hours) depart (St 101; mains 8000-15,000r; h10am-9pm) Just from NH5 on the western edge of town. north of the Khmer Rouge–era dam, this riverside place has tasty Khmer dishes and Pick-ups and share taxis to the remote Carda- great river views. moms outpost of Ou Som (40,000r, 3¼ hours) and the town of Pramoay (Veal Veng; 30,000r, 8 Information 2½ hours) via Kravanh (one hour) and Rovieng (two hours) leave from next to the old market, Cheata at the Phnom Pech Hotel is relatively Psar Chaa. switched on if you need information on getting Phnom Pech Hotel rents out bicycles (US$3 a day) and motorbikes (US$10). Moto/remork drivers in town charge US$10/15 for a return trip to Kompong Luong.
235 Kompong Luong កពំ ង់ហលួង្ 8 Getting There & Away POP 10,000 Roads and bridges in the area have been upgrad- ed to service a new hydrodam in Ou Som, and you Kompong Luong has all the amenities you’d can now get into the park at any time of the year. expect to find in an oversized fishing village, Areas in and near the CCPF are still being de- except that here everything floats on water. mined, so stay on roads and well-trodden trails. The result is a partly ethnic-Vietnamese Ven- ice without the dry land. The cafes, shops, From Psar Chaa in Pursat, share taxis and chicken coops, fish ponds, ice-making factory, pick-ups serve Kravanh (one hour), Rovieng (two petrol station and karaoke bars are kept from hours) and Pramoay (three hours) year-round. sinking by boat hulls, barrels or bunches of From Pramoay, the track south to Ou Som is in bamboo, as are the Vietnamese pagoda, the rougher shape. It’s passable by moto year-round, blue-roofed church and the colourful houses. but taxis can’t handle it during the height of the In the dry season, when water levels drop and wet season. The road south from Ou Som to Koh Tonlé Sap lake shrinks, the entire aquapolis is Kong is much better and can accommodate taxis towed, boat by boat, a few kilometres north. year-round. In the dry season you can go from Pursat all the way to Koh Kong by share taxi. The population of this fascinating and picturesque village is partly Vietnamese, so You can also get to Pramoay via a dirt road (no (reflecting their ambiguous status in Cam- public transport) from Samlaut in Pailin Province. bodian society) you may find the welcome here slightly more subdued than in most Phnom Aural Wildlife Sanctuary is best rural Cambodian towns, at least from the accessed from Kompong Speu, 45km west of adults. Khmer Rouge massacres of Vietnam- Phnom Penh. ese villagers living around Tonlé Sap were commonplace during the first half of the Central Cardamoms 1990s, and even as late as 1998 more than Protected Forest (CCPF) 20 Vietnamese were killed in a pogrom near Kompong Chhnang. ព្រៃអភរិ ក្សភំ្នក្រវញា៉ The way to explore Kompong Luong is, The CCPF’s enforcement ranger teams get N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia PGK oue trmtspiaontngPgTrhLouevori nencg&eAr o u n d naturally, by boat. The official tourist rate to technical and financial support from Conser- charter a four-passenger wooden motorboat vation International (www.conservation.org) (complete with life-jackets) at Kompong and operate out of three stations in the north. Luong boat landing is US$10 per hour for one to three passengers (US$13 for four to Rangers and military police based at Kra- five, US$15 for six to seven). vanh ranger station, deep in the Cardamoms jungle in the Tang Rang area south of Pursat, Kompong Luong has three homestays play an unending game of cat-and-mouse (per person per night not incl boat ride US$4-6; W) with loggers, poachers and encroachers. available with local families. This is an inter- esting way to discover what everyday life is re- The most valuable contraband at the ally like on the water. Meals are available for front-line Rovieng ranger station is aromat- US$2 and host families can provide boats for ic mreah prew (sassafras, or safrole) oil, village exploring. You can book a homestay extracted from the roots of the endangered when you arrive at the boat landing. Cinnamomum parthenoxylon tree. One tonne of wood produces just 30L of the oil, 8 Getting There & Around which has a delightful, sandalwood-like scent. Local people use it in traditional med- The jumping-off point to Kompong Luong is the icine, but it’s safrole oil’s use as the precursor town of Krakor, 32km east of Pursat. From Krakor in the production of the drug MDMA that to the boat landing, where tours begin, it’s 1.5km has caused the most illegal logging of this to 6km, depending on the time of year. tree species. Northern Cardamom A few kilometres from Rovieng (and Mountains ភក្ំន ្រវញា៉ 53km southwest of Pursat) are the L’Bak Kamronh Rapids, which attract Khmers on As the Central Cardamoms Protected Forest holidays. About 25km west of Rovieng, in (CCPF) and adjacent wildlife sanctuaries slow- Pramoay Commune, the old-growth Chhrok ly open up to ecotourism, Pursat is emerging Preal Forest can be visited with a guide. as the Cardamoms’ northern gateway. To pre-arrange a guide, homestay or guesthouse near the Kravanh or Rovieng ranger stations, try contacting forestry offi- cial Peau Somanak (%017 464663; smpeov@ gmail.com) for advice.
236 Phnom Samkos Wildlife Dach (12,000r, 2½ hours), then hire a moto Sanctuary ទជី ម្រកស តព្វ ្រៃភ ស្នំ ំកុស to Sra Ken (US$10, one hour). Overnight in Sra Ken, which has homestay accommoda- Sandwiched between the CCPF and the Thai tion (about US$4 to US$6), and head up the frontier, the Phnom Samkos Wildlife Sanc- mountain the next morning. On the second tuary (3338 sq km) is well and truly out in day you can camp on the mountain or re- the sticks. It is threatened by timber laun- turn to Sra Ken. dering and agricultural concessions. BATTAMBANG PROVINCE Boasting Cambodia’s second-highest peak, Phnom Samkos (1717m), the sanctu- Batt ambang P r ov ince (ខេត្បត ាត់ដបំ ង; Bat ary’s main town is Pramoay (Veal Veng), 125km west of Pursat. This remote little out- Dambong), is said by proud locals to produce post has three guesthouses (r US$5). Local Cambodia’s finest rice, sweetest coconuts and moto drivers can take visitors to nearby eth- tastiest oranges (don’t bring this up in Pur- nic minority villages. sat). It has a long border with Thailand and a short stretch of the Tonlé Sap shoreline. From Pramoay it takes about an hour to tackle the track south to Ou Som, next to Battambang has passed from Cambodia the Atai dam, where there’s a CCPF ranger to Thailand and back again several times station. over the past few centuries. Thailand ruled the area from 1794 to 1907 and again during 2 Activities WWII (1941 to 1946), when the Thais cut a deal with the Japanese and the Vichy French. O’Soam Tourism Centre TOUR (%089 899895; www.osoamtour.wordpress.com) In the isolated settlement of Ou Som, vil- lagers have long eked out a meagre living by poaching and logging. To create income- Battambang បាត់ដំបង generating opportunities in the area that har- % 053 / POP 147,000 N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia BAcatti vaimtbi easn g P r o v i n c e ness the local environment sustainably, the There’s something about Battambang that visitors just love. Forget the fact that there’s O’Soam Community Centre offers a range of really not all that much to do in the city ecotourism activities for those interested in experiencing a region of Cambodia that has proper: the colonial architecture teetering into genteel disrepair, the riverside setting, long been under the radar for travellers. the laid-back cafes – they all make up for Hiking and boat trips in the surrounding countryside, as well as trips to Phnom Sam- it. It’s the perfect blend of relatively urban modernity and small-town friendliness. kos, can be organised. Local accommodation Outside the city’s confines, meanwhile, is provided by a couple of simple guesthouses and homestays (US$5 per person). timeless hilltop temples and bucolic villages await – not to mention the most scenic river trip in the country, which links Battambang Phnom Aural Wildlife Sanctuary with Siem Reap. ទីជម្រកសត្ពវ ្រៃភឱ្នំ រលា៉ ់ That Cambodia’s best-known circus (the magnificent Phare Ponleu Selpak) is here Sadly, Phnom Aural Wildlife Sanctuary is no coincidence: the city has an enduring (2538 sq km), just east of the CCPF, is rapidly tradition of producing many of Cambodia’s being destroyed from the south and the east best-loved singers, actors and artists. by corrupt land speculation and rampant illegal logging. 1 Sights Hiking up Phnom Aural (1813m), Cambo- Much of Battambang’s charm lies in its early dia’s highest peak, can be done in a day but 20th-century architecture; a mix of vernacu- most do it in two or three days, including lar shophouses and French colonial construc- transport to and from Phnom Penh. Guides tion that makes up the historic core of the (US$25 to US$30 per day) who know the city. Some of the finest colonial buildings are way, and where to find water, can be hired dotted along the waterfront (St 1), especially through the village chief in Sra Ken, at the just south of Psar Nath (St 1), itself an archi- base of the mountain. tectural monument, albeit a modernist one. To get there, travel from Phnom Penh to Phnom Penh–based KA Architecture the town of Kompong Speu (45km), where Tours (www.ka-tours.org) F has collaborat- early-afternoon minibuses depart for Spean
237 BATTAMBANG’S EMERGING ART SCENE Before the Khmer Rouge era, Battambang had a long history as the nation’s central hub for art and culture. Today a new generation of artists are building on this heritage and Battambang is regaining its reputation as Cambodia’s capital of culture. A small clutch of galleries, shops and funky bars have set up around St 2½, creating an informal arts district right in the heart of town. Check out the local scene at these places: Sammaki Gallery (St 2½; h1-6pm Mon-Fri) S Battambang’s original contemporary- art gallery, focused on the work of local young artists. Supported by the Cambodian Children’s Trust. Sangker Art Space (St 1½) A little art space and gallery that runs regular exhibitions by Battambang’s artists. Lotus Bar & Gallery (p244) At the heart of Battambang’s artistic life, Lotus’ upstairs gallery hosts exhibitions showcasing the town’s diverse and eclectic artistic community. Owner Darren Swallow helped found the Sammaki Gallery. Choco l’art Café (p243) This cafe-gallery often hosts exhibitions and other art projects. Make Maek Art Space (66 St 2½) This gallery and workshop, run by respected local painter Mao Soviet, displays many of his works. It was closed last time we came through town but check out if it’s reopened when you visit. ed with Battambang Municipality to create Wats BUDDHIST TEMPLE two heritage walks in the historic centre of Battambang, available as a free download Battambang’s Buddhist temples survived the from its website. The walks concentrate Khmer Rouge period relatively unscathed both on the French period and on the mod- thanks to a local commander who ignored ernist architecture of the ’60s. This is a great orders from on high. Some of the best are way to spend half a day exploring the city. Wat Phiphétaram (St 4), Wat Damrey Sar N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia SBiagthttasmb a n g P r o v i n c e (វតត្ដរំ សី , White Elephant Pagoda; St 127) and Wat Kandal (វត្តកណ្ាដ ល; Riverside Rd ). Battambang Museum MUSEUM (សារមនរទី្ ខេត្តបាតដ់ បំ ង; St 1; admission US$1; Wat Kor Village VILLAGE h8-11am & 2-5.30pm) This small and rather (ភមូ វិ ត្គត ) About 2km south of central Battam- dusty museum displays a trove of fine An- bang, the village of Wat Kor is centred around gkorian lintels and statuary from all over a temple of the same name. It’s a great place Battambang Province, including pieces to wander, especially late in the afternoon from Prasat Banan and Sneng. Signs are in when the opposite (east) bank of the Sangker Khmer, English and French. River is back-lit in amber tones by the sink- A mammoth museum enlargement and ing sun. Picturesque bridges span the river, modernisation project was in the planning the spires of Wat Kor glow bright platinum stages when we were last in town and may and Khmer village life is on full display. be well under way by the time you visit. About 1.5km beyond Wat Kor, you’ll en- counter a cluster of Khmer heritage hous- Governor’s Residence NOTABLE BUILDING es that the village is known for. Built of The two-storey Governor’s Residence, with now-rare hardwoods almost a century ago balconies and wooden shutters, is a hand- some legacy of the early 1900s. The interior is and surrounded by orchard gardens, they have wide verandahs and exude the ambi- closed but it’s possible to stroll the grounds. ence of another era. It was designed by an Italian architect for the last Thai governor, who departed in 1907. Two of the approximately 20 heritage houses in the Wat Kor area are open to visi- tors: Bun Roerng House (suggested donation Train Station HISTORIC BUILDING US$1) and neighbouring Khor Sang House (St 102) Here at Battambang’s disused train (suggested donation US$1). The owner of each station, the time on the stopped clock is always 8.02. Just along the tracks to the will give you a short tour in French or Eng- lish. They have floors worn lustrous by a south, you can explore a treasure trove of century of bare feet and are decorated with derelict French-era repair sheds, warehous- es and rolling stock. old furniture and family photos.
238 B CSStt550011 D Vishnu ÿ#23 Sanctuary Villa (200m) Battambang A # Roundabout f#›# 1 ˜# 57 64 NH57 #54 Phare Ponleu D St 465 í# Selpak turnoff (400m); D St 101 Sisophon (68km) D ú#45 56 2 66 ˜# ›# 60 Riverside Rd Sangker River›#62 3 ›#63 4 ›#58 5 St 102 Ú# 11 21 CECNITT1ãS#Y6Rt 1E15S30tS3ÿ#t1½#172Sð##1#úÿ#t31114585215Ø#97#ú3ú#36â#54PNs›#6aa4#þ3#ú1tr9#ú73æ#5923ÿ#2ÿ##ú9844â4#ü#2ú##ì6ú###BC7#ì4#ú35uo5432il9l5ú#od1nini4ag1ls EAST ÿ# #ú40 BANK 6 28 ÿ# St 102 St 3 ÿ# 26 St 1 ½ Ú# 10 dd 8 14# Battambang £# â# â#6 2 æ# # St 123 13 N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia BS iagthttasmb a n g P r o v i n c e St 2 ½ ñ# St 2 St 125 9 1 â# St 209 Ú# St 127 20ÿ# 43 12 Ø# ú# ÿ#25 Wat Sangker Ú# D Old NH5 #ú St 1 û# 47 #ï æ# 3 19 ã# NH57 St 139 Wat û#48 Kampheng Ú# St 149 7 St 153 NH57 DYi Quoc Clinic (100m); Wat Kor (1.5km); Pailin (83km) Green Orange Kayaks (8km); Maisons Wat Kor (2km) A Phnom Banan (23km) BC D
e# 0 500 m 239 0 0.25 miles Bun Roerng House was built in 1920 by a E local lawyer. During our last visit, the current DF owners were planning to turn the rear sec- ›# tion of the house into homestay accommoda- Wat Ek Phnom (11km) tion which, when finished, could be a unique NH5 1 option for architecture/history fans. Khor Sang House was built in 1907 by the French- 2 speaking owner’s grandfather, who served as a secretary to the province’s last Thai gover- nor. The rear section dates from 1890. 2 Activities Non-guests can use the pool at Delux Villa (%077 336373; www.deluxvilla.com; St 4; W) for US$5. Green Orange Kayaks KAYAKING (%017 736166; www.fedacambodia.org; Ksach Poy; half-day US$12) S Kayaks can be rented from St 201 Green Orange Kayaks, part of FEDA, a local ÿ# NGO that runs a community centre in the vil- 3 lage of Ksach Poy, 8km south of Battambang. Half-day, self-guided kayaking trips begin at St 203 ÿ# 22 î# 53 Ksach Poy’s Green Orange Cafe. From there you paddle back to the city along the Sangk- er River. A guide (US$3) is optional. Booking ahead is highly recommended. FEDA also run a guesthouse, the Green St 207 Orange Village Bungalow (%012 207957; N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia BAcatti vaimtbi easn g P r o v i n c e 4 www.fedacambodia.org; Ksach Poy; tr per person US$5) S, in Ksach Poy. Ask for Ngarm. St 208 Aerobics Classes HEALTH & FITNESS St 212 (Riverside Rd; per person 1000r) Head to Bat- tambang’s East Bank to see the locals burn- ing off the rice carbs doing aerobics from NH5 about 6am to 7am and 5pm to 7pm daily. #ú ú# Just five minutes of working out should 32 31 5 be enough to teach you some numbers in Khmer. D Seeing Hands Massage MASSAGE Psar Thmei (%078 337499; St 121; per hr US$6; h7am-10pm) (500m) S Trained blind masseurs offer soothing St 208 work-overs. St 212 50 6 Victory Club SWIMMING #þ (St 1; pool access US$2; h6am-8pm) Has a 25m pool. St 305 St 314 Khmer New Generation E St 305 Organization VOLUNTEERING (%092 790597; www.kngocambodia.org; Bospo village) S Khmer New Generation Organiza- tion, a local NGO, is always looking for volun- St 307 7 teer teachers to help out with its English-lan- guage teaching program. Commitments of D Butterfly Bicycle one month or longer are preferred. Tours (20m) F
240 N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia TBoatutrasmb a n g P r o v i n c e Battambang 37 Fresh Eats Café........................................C2 38 Jaan Bai ....................................................D2 æ Sights 1 Battambang Museum ............................ C4 La Villa.............................................(see 26) 2 French-Era Train Repair Sheds ............ B4 39 Lan Chov Khorko Miteanh......................C3 3 Governor's Residence............................ D6 40 Lonely Tree Cafe .....................................C3 4 Make Maek Art Space ............................ C2 41 New Night Market ...................................D2 5 Psar Nath ................................................. C2 42 Night Market ............................................D2 6 Sammaki Gallery..................................... C3 43 Riverside Night Market...........................D4 7 Sangker Art Space ................................. D3 44 The Kitchen .............................................D3 8 Train Station............................................ B3 45 Vegetarian Foods Restaurant................ C1 9 Wat Damrey Sar...................................... C4 û Drinking & Nightlife 10 Wat Kandal .............................................. D4 Here Be Dragons ...........................(see 25) 11 Wat Phiphétaram.................................... D2 46 Kinyei ........................................................D2 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Lotus Bar & Gallery ....................... (see 37) 12 Aerobics Classes .................................... D4 47 River ..........................................................D5 13 Australian Centres for 48 Riverside Balcony Bar.............................D6 Development........................................ C4 þ Shopping 14 Battambang Bike.................................... C3 49 Bric-a-Brac ...............................................C3 15 Coconut Lyly............................................ C2 16 Delux Villa ................................................ C3 Jewel in the Lotus............................ (see 4) 17 Nary Kitchen............................................ C2 Lonely Tree Shop ..........................(see 40) 18 Seeing Hands Massage.......................... C3 50 Rachana Handicrafts .............................. F6 Soksabike ...................................... (see 46) ï Information 19 Victory Club ............................................. D6 51 ANZ Royal Bank.......................................D2 52 Canadia Bank...........................................D2 ÿ Sleeping 53 Handa Medical Centre............................ F3 20 Angkor Comfort Hotel............................ C4 54 Institut Français....................................... C1 21 Au Cabaret Vert ...................................... B6 55 Lucky Net .................................................C3 22 Bambu Hotel.............................................E3 56 Vietnamese Consulate ........................... C1 23 Banan Hotel..............................................C1 ï Transport 24 Ganesha Family Guesthouse ................ D3 Angkor Express ............................. (see 57) 25 Here Be Dragons..................................... D5 57 Boat to Siem Reap .................................. D1 26 La Villa ...................................................... D3 58 Capitol Tour ............................................. C1 27 Royal Hotel .............................................. C2 Chann Na........................................ (see 57) 28 Sangker Villa Hotel ................................. D3 59 Gecko Moto..............................................D2 29 Senghout Hotel ....................................... D2 60 Golden Bayon Express............................ C1 30 Tomato Guesthouse............................... C3 61 Mekong Express ......................................C2 62 Phnom Penh Sorya ................................. C1 ú Eating 63 Ponleu Angkor Khmer ............................ C1 31 Bamboo Train Cafe..................................E5 64 Rith Mony ................................................. D1 32 Battambang BBQ & Buffet .....................E5 65 Taxi Station .............................................. C1 33 Cafe Eden................................................. D2 66 Taxis to Pailin........................................... C1 34 Choco l'art Café ...................................... C2 35 Coconut Water ....................................... C3 36 Flavours of India...................................... C3 Children’s Action for a social enterprise aiming to connect visitors with the Cambodian countryside and its peo- Development VOLUNTEERING ple. Half-day/full-day trips cover 25km/40km and include stops at family-run industries (%092 301697; www.cadcambodia.org) S Chil- such as rice-paper making and the prahoc dren’s Action for Development, a nonprofit (fermented fish paste) factory, and a visit to a in Pheam Ek (13km from Battambang), pro- local home. Tour prices depend on group size. vides free English instruction to local kids and welcomes short-term volunteer teachers. T Tours Butterfly Bicycle Tours CYCLING Soksabike CYCLING (%089 297070; www.butterflytour.asia; St 309; half-day tour US$15-17; hdeparts 7.30am & (%012 542019; www.soksabike.com; half-day 1.30pm) Begun by a group of local university US$23-27, full-day US$34-40; hdeparts 7.30am) S Based at Kinyei cafe (p244), Soksabike is students, Butterfly’s bicycle tours are focused either on landscapes, sights or traditional life
in the local area. The traditional livelihoods 241 tour gets rave reviews from visitors. Royal Hotel HOTEL $ (%016 912034; www.royalhotelbattambang.com; St 115; r with air-con US$20-25; aiW) An Battambang Bike CYCLING old-timer on the Battambang scene, the (%097 482 4104; www.thebattambangbike.com; St Royal is deservedly popular. Some rooms 2½; tours US$18) Leads a variety of bike tours, including a half-day city tour and a half-day may be faded but all are decently sized and come with fridge and TV. Staff here are cycle trip to Phnom Sampeau. They also run some of the most clued-up in town. free Saturday fun-rides and rent both city and mountain bikes (US$2 to $5 per day). Senghout Hotel HOTEL $ (%012 530327; www.senghouthotel.com; St 2; r C Courses with fan US$10-15, with air-con US$15-35; aWs) Known for its on-the-ball staff who are quick Coconut Lyly COOKING COURSE to help with traveller queries, the Senghout (%016 399339; www.coconutlyly.com; St 111; per has a variety of nicely decorated rooms. Some person US$10) Classes are run by Chef Lyly, a graduate from Siem Reap’s Paul Dubrule can be a bit poky, so check out a few before deciding. The rooftop pool is a key drawcard. Cooking School. Half-day classes (start times 9am and 3.30pm) include a visit to Psar Nath, preparing four typically Khmer dishes Ganesha Family Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (recipe book included) and then eating your (%092 135570; www.ganeshaguesthouse.com; handiwork afterwards. The excellent restau- St 1½; dm US$4.50, r US$11-14; W) The best of rant here is open from 8am to 10pm. Battambang’s cheapies, Ganesha has a light- filled dorm with double-wide beds, and small Nary Kitchen COOKING COURSE private rooms with bamboo furniture and tiled bathrooms (cold water only). Down- (%012 763950; www.narykitchen.com; St 111; half- stairs is an inviting cafe. day course US$10) This popular cooking class includes a visit to the local market, three- course menu and a keepsake recipe book. Tomato Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%053-690 7374; www.facebook.com/tomato Courses start at 9am and 3.30pm, lasting guesthouse; St 119; dm/d US$1.50/3; W) The about three hours, plus time to eat. If you’re N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia BC aotutrasmebs a n g P r o v i n c e more interested in eating than cooking, its cafe downstairs is always bustling and up- stairs are tiny, en suite rooms – just don’t try restaurant is open from 8am to 10pm. to swing a cat in them. Or else you can bed Australian Centres for down in the spectacularly cheap dorm. Development LANGUAGE COURSE Banan Hotel HOTEL $ (%053-677 7772; www.acdcambodia.weebly.com; (%053-953242; www.bananhotel.com; NH5; r incl St 123) S Offers well-regarded Khmer lan- guage classes, with one-to-one lessons avail- breakfast US$20, deluxe US$25-40; aiWs) With wood panelling in abundance, this hotel able as well as regular weekly classes. has immaculate rooms (more expensive ones 4 Sleeping come with balconies) and friendly service, plus there’s an annexe with a rooftop pool. Most of Battambang’s budget options are clustered close to Psar Nath, while midrange Sanctuary Villa BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ and luxury accommodation tends to be ei- (%097 216 7168; r incl breakfast US$60-90; ther on the east bank or out of the centre, aiWs) This intimate poolside boutique and requires a short remork or moto ride to in a lush garden has seven attractive villas get to the tourist belt in the old quarter. furnished with traditional woods, tasteful silks and throw rugs – but the out-of-the- way location won’t be for everybody. From 4 City Centre the White Horse roundabout on NH5 go oAngkor Comfort Hotel HOTEL $ 500m north and take a right. (%077 306410; www.angkorcomforthotel.com; St 1; r with air-con US$15; naW) The Angkor’s Maisons Wat Kor BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (%098 555377; www.maisonswatkor.com; Wat Kor huge rooms are sparkling clean and come village; s/d from US$81/94; aWs) About 2km with white linen on the bed, flatscreen TVs, enough power-points to charge up all your south of central Battambang, Maisons Wat Kor is a secluded sanctuary of just eight rooms devices at once, and modern bathrooms with in traditional-style Khmer houses. Rooms walk-in showers – these are midrange amen- ities on a backpacker budget. are light-filled, spacious and come with
242 AN EVENING UNDER THE BIG TOP Battambang’s signature attraction is the internationally acclaimed circus (cirque nou- veau) of Phare Ponleu Selpak (ហ្ាវ រពន្សលឺ ិល្ប; %053-952424; www.phareps.org; adult/ student US$14/7), a multi-arts centre for disadvantaged children. Even though they also run shows in Siem Reap, it’s worth timing your visit to Battambang to watch this amaz- ing spectacle where it all began. Performances are at 7pm on Monday, Thursday and Saturday, with a Friday show added between November to February. Tickets are sold at the door from 6pm. Phare, as it’s known to locals, does a ton of stuff – contrary to popular belief it is not just a circus. It trains musicians, visual artists and performing artists as well. Many of the artists you’ll bump into around town, such as Ke of Choco l’art Café fame (oppo- site), lived and studied at Phare. Guests are welcome to take a guided tour (US$5; hMon-Fri 8-11am & 2-5pm) of the Phare complex during the day and observe circus, dance, music, drawing and graphic-arts classes. This is definitely $5 well spent. To get here from the Vishnu Roundabout on NH5, head west for 900m and then turn right (north) and continue another 600m. contemporary bathrooms. The saltwater Sangker Villa Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ swimming pool surrounded by lush foliage (%097 764 0017; www.sangkervilla.com; off St 203; provides plenty of opportunity for chill-out r incl breakfast US$45-55; aWs) Sangker Villa time. may lack the pizzazz of Battambang’s fancier poolside boutiques, but beats them hands- Au Cabaret Vert BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ down on price. Out the back, the poolside (%053-656 2000; www.aucabaretvert.com; NH57; r incl breakfast US$85; aWs) Contemporary bar provides a tranquil retreat, while the bright, simply decorated rooms come with N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia EBattti nagmb a n g P r o v i n c e meets colonial at this resort on the western contemporary bathrooms. edge of town. Rooms are stylish and include flatscreen TV and rain shower. The swim- oBambu Hotel ming pool is a natural, self-cleaning pond. HOTEL $$$ (%053-953900; www.bambuhotel.com; St 203; r incl breakfast from US$90; naiWs) Bambu’s spacious rooms are designed in a 4 East Bank Franco-Khmer motif with gorgeous tiling, oHere Be Dragons HOSTEL $ stone-inlaid bathrooms and exquisite fur- (%089 264895; www.herebedragonsbattambang. com; Riverside East; dm US$3, r US$8-10; W) niture. The fusion restaurant is one of the best in town and the poolside bar invites A funky fun bar, leafy front garden for re- lingering. Above all else though, it’s Bambu’s laxing, and free beer on arrival make Here Be Dragons a top backpacker base. Six-bed gracious staff that set it in a category above Battambang’s other boutique offerings. dorms come with lock-boxes, while sunny Book ahead – it’s extremely popular. private rooms are cheerfully decked out with brightly coloured bedding. The quiet 5 Eating location next to the riverside park on the East Bank is a bonus. For excellent Cambodian cuisine, also try cooking-school restaurants (p241) around La Villa BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ town. (%053-730151; www.lavilla-battambang.net; River- side Rd; d incl breakfast from US$70; aiWs) For street food, there are three night For a taste of colonial life, try this French- markets. The original night market (snacks era villa renovated in vintage 1930s style, & mains r2000-8000; h4-9pm) is at the one of the most romantic boutique hotels in northeast corner of Psar Nath and dishes Cambodia. Gauzy mosquito nets drape over up barbecued chicken, fish and pork. The four-poster beds, original tile work graces new night market (St 1; mains 4000-8000r; the floors and art deco features decorate h6pm-midnight) is across the road along the every corner, creating an old-world ambi- riverfront, and is more of a sit-down affair. ence that can’t be beaten. There’s another riverside night market (St 1; mains r4000-8000; h3pm-midnight), across from the Battambang Museum.
5 City Centre 243 W) Run with gusto by local painter Ke and oLonely Tree Cafe CAFE $ his French partner, Soline, this inviting (www.thelonelytreecafe.com; St 121; mains US$4- g allery-cafe sees foreigners and locals alike 5.50; h10am-10pm; W) S Upstairs from the gather to drink and eat Soline’s wonderful shop of the same name, this uber-cosy cafe bread, pastries and (for breakfast) crêpes. Live music gets going occasionally. serves Spanish tapas–style dishes and a few oJaan Bai FUSION $$ Khmer options under a soaring, bamboo- inlaid ceiling. Its mascot is an actual tree on (%078 263144; jaanbai@cambodianchildrenstrust. org; cnr St 1½ & St 2; small plates US$3, mains US$4- the road to Siem Reap. Proceeds support cul- 10; h11am-10.30pm Tue-Sun; Wv) S Jaan Bai tural preservation and the disabled, among other causes. (‘rice bowl’ in Khmer) is Battambang’s foodie treat, with a sleekly minimalist interior offset by beautiful French-Khmer tile work lining Coconut Water INTERNATIONAL $ the wall. The menu likewise is successfully (St 119; mains US$2-3.50; h8am-9pm; v) S Eat in the snug 1st-floor cafe or amid the cush- bold. Order a few of the small plates to sa- ions on the shaded rooftop. There’s great vour their range of flavours, or go all-out with breakfast options and a small list of Khmer the tasting menu: seven plates plus wine for staples, or you can munch on a caramelised US$15 per person (minimum two people). chicken or tofu burger. Profits support vari- You’re eating for a good cause. Jaan ous community projects. Bai trains and employs vulnerable youth through the Cambodia Children’s Trust Flavours of India INDIAN $ (www.cambodianchildrenstrust.org). (85 St 2½; mains US$3.50-5; h9am-10.30pm; Wv) The Battambang outpost of a popular Cafe Eden CAFE $$ (www.cafeedencambodia.com; St 1; mains Phnom Penh Indian restaurant, the inspira- US$4-7; h7.30am-9pm Wed-Mon; W) S This tion for which came about when some curry- craving expats ordered takeaway all the way American-run social enterprise offers a re- from the capital (290km to the southeast). laxed space for a hearty breakfast or an after- Opt for the thalis (US$5 to US$7) for an ex- noon coffee. The compact lunch-and-dinner N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia EBattti nagmb a n g P r o v i n c e cellent-value meal. menu is Asian-fusion style, with some great burgers on offer as well. They also do the best Vegetarian Foods Restaurant VEGETARIAN $ chips in town. At the back, their boutique (St 102; mains 1500-3000r; h6.30am-5pm; v) sells a small range of clothing and crafts. This hole-in-the-wall eatery serves some of the most delicious vegetarian dishes in The Kitchen INTERNATIONAL $$ Cambodia, including rice soup, homemade (St 1; mains US$5-7; h10am-10pm; W) The Kitch- soy milk and dumplings for just 1000r. Tre- en has an easygoing vibe, with colourful wall mendous value. art and dangling kitchen implements used as decoration. The menu dishes up a bit of Fresh Eats Café INTERNATIONAL $ everything, wandering from Mexican (burri- (www.mpkhomeland.org; St 2½; mains US$2.50- 4; h9am-9pm; W) S Run by an NGO that tos and tacos) to pan-Asian with ease. There’s some good bar-snack options, too. helps disadvantaged youth, this place com- plements its Khmer specialities with build- your-own baguettes, great salads and pasta. 5 East Bank There’s a small handicrafts boutique on site. A lively restaurant scene is developing on the Lan Chov Khorko Miteanh NOODLES $ East Bank, especially along Old NH5. (145 St 2; mains 4000-6000r; h9am-9pm) More Bamboo Train Cafe INTERNATIONAL $ conveniently known as Chinese Noodle by (Old NH5; mains 8000-16,000r; h7am-10pm) The resident foreigners, the Chinese chef here affable owner ensures this place is always does bargain dumplings and serves fresh popular. The eclectic menu contains pizza, noodles a dozen or more ways, including pasta, curries and a delicious tofu amok. with pork or duck soup. Battambang BBQ & Buffet BARBECUE $ (Old NH5; mains 10000-16000r; h4-10pm) Choco l’art Café CAFE $ (www.chocolartcafe.com; St 117; breakfasts & mains US$1.50-6; h9am-midnight Wed-Mon; Offering an all-inclusive tabletop barbe- cue and serve-yourself buffet, this place is
244 ALL ABOARD THE BAMBOO TRAIN Battambang’s Bamboo Train (return ride for 2 or more passengers each US$5, for 1 passen- ger US$10; h7am-dusk) is one of the world’s unique rail journeys. From O Dambong, 3.7km east of Battambang’s old French bridge (Wat Kor Bridge), the train bumps 7km southeast to O Sra Lav along warped, misaligned rails and vertiginous bridges left by the French. The journey takes 20 minutes each way, with a 20-minute stop at O Sra Lav in between. Each bamboo train – known in Khmer as a norry (nori) – consists of a 3m-long wooden frame, covered lengthwise with slats made of ultralight bamboo, that rest on two barbell-like bogies, the aft one connected by fan belts to a 6HP gasoline engine. Pile on 10 or 15 people, or up to three tonnes of rice, crank it up and you can cruise along at about 15km/h. The genius of the system is that it offers a brilliant solution to the most ineluctable problem faced on any single-track line: what to do when two trains going in opposite directions meet. In the case of bamboo trains, the answer is simple: one car is quickly dis- assembled and set on the ground beside the tracks so that the other can pass. The rule is that the car with the fewer passengers has to cede priority. With the advent of good roads, the bamboo train would have become defunct if it hadn’t been for its reinvention as a tourist attraction. Yes, it is super-touristy – complete with some very determined children touting bracelets when you disembark at O Sra Lav – but there’s no denying that whizzing along the click-clacking rails is a huge amount of fun. There is talk of upgrading the railway and ending the operation of the bamboo train in the near future, but there are plans to relocate it within the province. N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia BD arti ntka imnbga&n gN iPgrhotvliinfce e unbelievably popular with local Khmers (mains US$4 to US$8) meanders from Mid- and domestic tourists. Exceptional value. dle East–inspired mezze platters to pizza, with some Khmer specialities thrown in. oLa Villa INTERNATIONAL $$ (%053-730151; Riverside Rd; mains US$5-15; Here Be Dragons BAR h11am-3pm & 6-9pm; W) Battambang’s most (Riverside Rd; h11am-late; W) Before there was the popular hostel, there was the popular bar atmospheric dinner option dishes up de- Dragons. They haven’t forgotten their roots. lectable Khmer, Vietnamese, French and Italian dishes, plus wines from around the The bar frequently rumbles ’til late with a mix of backpackers and expats. There’s a world. Specialities include a tender fish fillet Wednesday pub quiz. in lemon sauce. Sit inside under the glass atrium or bask in the colonial glow of the courtyard outside. Riverside Balcony Bar BAR 6 Drinking & Nightlife (cnr St 1 & St 149; h4-11pm Tue-Sun; W) Set in a gorgeous wooden house high above the riv- erfront, Australian-run Riverside is Battam- oKinyei CAFE bang’s original bar and a mellow place for (www.kinyei.org; 1 St 1½; coffee US$1.25-2.50, a sundowner. The small menu mixes pub snacks US$1-2.50; h7am-7pm; W) S Want to know where we go for our morning coffee grub and Khmer classics (mains US$3.50 to US$7.50). in Battambang? National barista champs have been crowned here. All your espressos, River BAR flat whites and cappuccinos are on offer and (St 1; h6am-11pm) Locals flock here during the evening for the riverfront breezes and there’s a small menu of breakfast options for the football and movies this place blasts and light bites. out on its outdoor screen. Lotus Bar & Gallery CAFE 7 Shopping (St 2½; h11am-late; W) In a beautifully reno- vated shophouse, the street-level bar is a fine place to mingle with all sorts of characters. Lonely Tree Shop TEXTILES Upstairs is a gallery, while downstairs you (St 121; h10am-10pm) S Fine silk bags, chunky jewellery, fashionable shirts and might get film, musical performances or a skirts. Definitely not your run-of-the-mill themed party on any given night. The menu charity gift shop.
245 Jewel in the Lotus VINTAGE by protected wetlands, taking from five hours in the wet season to nine or more hours in the (St 2½; h11am-10pm) A wonderful trinket shop height of the dry season. Cambodia’s most mem- selling all kinds of ephemera and kitsch, plus orable boat trip, it’s operated on alternate days old photos and prints by local artists. Worth by Angkor Express (% 012 601287) and Chann stopping in even if you’re not buying. Na (% 012 354344). Bric-a-Brac HOMEWARES In the dry season, passengers are driven to a navigable section of the river. The best seats are (%077 531562; www.bric-a-brac.asia; 112 St 2; away from the noisy motor. It may be possible to h11am-8pm) This swish place sells handmade alight at the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary and then passementrie (trimmings) items, textiles, be picked up there the next day for US$5 extra. antiques and accessories. Upstairs is a bijou Be aware that these boats, while scenic, are not hotel of just three arty, designed rooms. always popular with local communities along the way, as the wake has caused small boats to Rachana Handicrafts TEXTILES capsize and fishing nets are regularly snagged. Many travellers also complain of overcrowding (h7.30am-5.30pm) S A tiny, NGO-run sew- and safety issues – there are rarely enough life ing workshop on the outskirts of town that jackets to go around. trains disadvantaged women and sells purs- es, stuffed toys, kramas and cotton and silk accessories. BUS 88 Information Like Phnom Penh, Battambang does not have a N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia IBnaftotrammbatainogn P r o v i n c e central bus station. Most companies are clus- For information on what’s happening in town, tered in the centre just south of the intersection look out for copies of the free Battambang Buzz of NH5 and St 4. magazine at restaurants, bars and hotels. To Phnom Penh, Capitol Tour and Phnom Penh The city map available at the tourist office Sorya have the most day buses. For a quicker details scenic routes to the bamboo train and journey, opt for the more expensive express other attractions outside of town. minivan services run by Golden Bayon Express (US$10, 4½ hours, 7am and 8.30am) or Mekong Free wi-fi access is the norm at hotels and most Express (US$12, 4½ hours, 7.30am, 8.45am, cafes and restaurants. 9.30am, 1pm, 2.30pm and 5pm). Unless you don’t ANZ Royal Bank (St 1; h 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, mind arriving at an ungodly hour in the morning, ATM 24hr) the sleeper bus options offered to Phnom Penh by Canadia Bank (Psar Thom; h7.30am-3.30pm various companies are not worth it. Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) Handa Medical Centre (% 095 520654; NH5; Mekong Express and Golden Bayan also run h clinic 9am-3.30pm, emergency 24hr) Has express minivans to Siem Reap. two ambulances and usually a European doctor or two in residence. Buses to Bangkok involve a change at the Institut Français (French Institute; www. border – usually to a minibus on the Thai side. institutfrancais-cambodge.com; St 501; h 8am- noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) Valiantly trying to keep If you’re pinching pennies, Capitol Tour gen- French culture alive in the age of the Anglo- erally has the lowest prices, followed by Phnom phones, the French Institute has an upstairs Penh Sorya. médiathèque with books and DVDs available for Capitol Tour (% 053-953040; St 102) free browsing. Golden Bayon Express (% 070 968966; St 101) Tourist Information Office (% 012 534177; Mekong Express (% 088 576 7668; St 3) www.battambang-town.gov.kh; St 1; h 8-11am & Phnom Penh Sorya (% 053-953904; St 4) 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Moderately useful office with a Ponleu Angkor Khmer (% 053-952366; St 4) great map of Battambang. Rith Mony (% 011 575572; St 1) Yi Quoc Clinic (% 053-953163, 012 530171; off NH57; h24hr) The best clinic in town. TAXI At the taxi station (NH5), share taxis to Phnom 88 Getting There & Away Penh (40,000r, 4½ hours) and Pursat (16,000, two hours) leave from the southeast corner. Taxis Battambang is 290km northwest of Phnom Penh to Poipet (20,000r, 1¾ hours), Sisophon (20,000r, along NH5 and 80km northeast of Pailin along 1¼ hours) and Siem Reap (26,000r, three hours) NH57 (formerly NH10). leave from north of the market out on NH5. BOAT Share taxis to Pailin (20,000r, 1¼ hours) and The riverboat to Siem Reap (US$20, daily 7am) the Psar Pruhm–Ban Pakard border leave from squeezes through narrow waterways and passes the corner of St 101 and St 4. Hiring a private taxi (US$35 to US$40) gives you the option of stopping off at Phnom Sampeau and Sneng on the way.
246 BUSES FROM BATTAMBANG DESTINATION DURATION COST COMPANIES FREQUENCY (HR) (US$) Bangkok 9 15-16 Mekong Express, PP Sorya 10.30am, 11.30am, noon Kompong Cham 7½ 7.50-10 PP Sorya, Rith Mony 9.30am Pailin 1½ 3-4 Ponleu Angkor, Rith Mony 1pm, 3pm Phnom Penh 5-6 5-12 all companies regularly until 2.30pm Poipet 2¼ 4-4.50 Capitol, PP Sorya, Rith Mony 7.45am, 1pm Siem Reap 3-4 4.50-5 Capitol, Golden Bayon Express, 7.45am, 8am, 9.45am, 1pm, Mekong Express, PP Sorya 2pm N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia GBAraetotuainnmdgbBaAarntogtuaPnmrdbo vainngc e 8 Getting Around gate decorated with a bas-relief of Eiy Sei (an elderly Buddha). A deep canyon, its ver- English- and French-speaking remork drivers are tical sides cloaked in greenery, descends 144 commonplace in Battambang, and all are eager steps through a natural arch to a ‘lost world’ to whisk you around on day trips. A half-day trip of stalactites, creeping vines and bats; two out of town to a single sight like Phnom Sampeau Angkorian warriors stand guard. might cost US$12, while a full day trip taking in three sights – Phnom Sampeau, Phnom Banan Near the westernmost of the two anten- and the bamboo train, for instance – costs US$16 nas at the summit, two government artillery to US$20, depending on your haggling skills. A pieces, one with markings in Russian, the moto costs about half that. other in German, are still deployed. Near the base of the western antenna, jockey for A moto ride in town costs around 2000r, while a position with other tourists on the sunset remork ride starts from US$1. lookout pavilion. Looking west you’ll spy Phnom Krapeu (Crocodile Mountain), a Gecko Moto (% 089 924260; St 3; h8am-7pm) one-time Khmer Rouge stronghold. and Royal Hotel rent out motorbikes for US$7 to US$8 per day. Bicycles can be rented at the Royal About halfway up to the summit, a road Hotel, Soksabike, Battambang Bike and several leads under a gate and 250m up to the other guesthouses for about US$2 per day. Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau, now a place of pilgrimage. A staircase, flanked by Around Battambang greenery, leads into a cavern where a gold- en reclining Buddha lies peacefully next to a The countryside around Battambang is glass-walled memorial filled with bones and littered with old temples and other worth- skulls – the remains of some of the people while sights. Admission to Phnom Sampeau, bludgeoned to death by Khmer Rouge cad- Phnom Banan and Wat Ek Phnom costs res and then thrown through the skylight US$3 for a combined ticket. If you purchase above. Next to the base of the stairway is the the ticket at one site, it’s valid all day long old memorial, a rusty cage made of chicken at the other two. For details on sites not wire and cyclone fencing and partly filled mentioned below, check out the guidebook with human bones. Around Battambang (US$10) by Ray Zepp, which has details on temples, wats and ex- Back down at the hill base, people gather cursions in the Battambang and Pailin areas. every evening to witness a natural spectacle. Proceeds go to monks and nuns working to At dusk (around 5.30pm) a thick column of raise HIV/AIDS awareness and to help AIDS bats pours out of a massive cave high up orphans. on the north side of the cliff face. The mes- merising display lasts a good 30 minutes as Phnom Sampeau ភ្នំសពំ ៅ millions of bats head out in a looping line to their feeding grounds near Tonlé Sap. At the summit of this fabled limestone out- crop, 12km southwest of Battambang along Access up to Phnom Sampeau is via a ce- NH57 (towards Pailin), a complex of tem- ment road or – if you’re in need of a work- ples (admission US$3 combined ticket) affords out – a steep staircase. The road is too steep gorgeous views. for remorks. English-speaking moto drivers hang out near the base of the hill, at a line As you descend from the summit’s golden of restaurants around the ticket office, and stupa, dating from 1964, turn left under the can whisk you up the hill for US$4 return.
247 Phnom Banan ប្រាសាទភបំន្ ាណន់ Midway b etween Battambang and Phnom Banan, i n an area known for its produc- The temple of Prasat Banan can easily be tion of chilli peppers (harvested from combined with a visit to Phnom Sampeau October to January), Cambodia’s only win- for a good half-day trip by moto or remork. ery gro w s shiraz and cabernet sauvignon grapes t o make reds, and tropics-resistant 1 Sights Black Q u een and Black Opal grapes to make ro s és. Both taste completely un- Prasat Banan TEMPLE like an y thing you’ve ever encountered in a bottle with the word ‘wine’ on the label. (admission US$3 combined ticket) It’s a 358-stone- step climb up Phnom Banan to reach Prasat Officially recognised by Cambodia’s Min- Banan, but the incredible views across sur- istry of Industry, Mines & Energy, Banon rounding countryside from the top are worth belongs to that exclusive club of wineries it. Udayadityavarman II, son of Suryavarman whose vintages improve significantly with I, built Prasat Banan in the 11th century; the addition of ice cubes. Also made here is some locals claim the five-tower layout here Banon brandy, which has a heavenly bou- was the inspiration for Angkor Wat, although quet and a taste that has been compared this seems optimistic. There are impressive to turpentine. Sampling takes place in an carved lintels above the doorways to each of attractive garden pavilion. the towers and bas-reliefs on the upper parts of the central tower. The winery is 10km south of Battambang From the temple, a narrow stone staircase and 8km north of Phnom Banan. leads south down the hill to three caves, Kamping Poy which can be visited with a local guide. Pras- at Banan is 23km south of Battambang. កំពីងពយួ Prasat Phnom Banon Winery WINERY Also known as the Killing Dam, Kamping Poy was one of the many grandiose Khmer (កន្លែងផ លតិ ស្រាទពំ ាងំ បាយជរូ ភបំ្ន ាណន;់ Rouge projects intended to re-create the so- Bot Sala Village; wine tasting US$2; h6am-6pm) phisticated irrigation networks that helped N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia SABriagtohtutansmdbBaantgtaPmrbo vainngc e TEMPLES & VILLAGE LIFE ON THE ROAD TO WAT EK PHNOM The rural lanes that squiggle out from Battambang are brimming with paddy field pano- ramas and tiny villages where traditional crafts and produce are made. The roads leading to Wat Ek Phnom are particularly rewarding to explore and make for a great half-day circuit, soaking up a mix of historic sights and village life. Some highlights: Pheam Ek Village About 5km north of Battambang is the village of Pheam Ek, whose speciality industry is making rice paper for spring rolls. All along the road, in family workshops, you’ll see rice paste being steamed and then placed on a bamboo frame for drying in the sun. Wat Ek Phnom is 5.5km further on. Wat Ek Phnom (វតត្ឯ កភ;្នំ admission US$3 combined ticket) Hidden behind a colourful modern pagoda and a gargantuan Buddha statue is this atmospheric, partly collapsed 11th-century temple. Wat Ek Phnom measures 52m by 49m and is surrounded by the remains of a laterite wall and an ancient baray (reservoir). A lintel showing the Churning of the Ocean of Milk can be seen above the east entrance to the central temple, whose upper flanks hold some fine bas-reliefs. Prahoc Factory After leaving Wat Ek Phnom, turn southwest towards Battambang; just before the bridge across the Sangker River, is a local factory which produces Cambodian prahoc (fermented fish paste). The bamboo trays of fish drying in the sun along the roadside are hugely photogenic. Wat Somrong Knong Just over the bridge, on the eastern side of the Sangker River, is Wat Somrong Knong. The gorgeous 18th-century pagoda here was used as a prison during the Khmer Rouge era; the area behind the wat was used as a killing field, where it’s believed around 10,000 people were executed. A memorial has been erected at the site. From here, take the road southwest for 6km to arrive back in Battambang.
248 LAND MINE ALERT! Cambodia wax mighty under the kings of Angkor. As many as 10,000 Cambodians Pailin and nearby parts of Battambang are thought to have perished during its con- Province (especially the districts of struction, worked to death under the shad- Samlot and Rotanak Mondol) are some ow of executions, malnutrition and disease. of the most heavily land-mined places There’s little to see but people come to in the world. De-mining sites are com- picnic, and hire row boats (10,000r for two monplace, sometimes quite close to hours) out on the water. the highway. Numerous amputees bear These days, thanks to the dam, the sad tribute to the horror of land mines. Kamping Poy area is one of the few parts of Stay on the beaten track in these parts. Cambodia to produce two rice crops a year. Public roads are OK, but farm roads Kamping Poy is 27km west of Battambang are risky, and venturing into Pailin’s (go via NH5 and follow the irrigation canal). beautiful forests on foot is definitely not It’s easy to combine a visit here with a stop a good idea. at Phnom Sampeau. Sneng សឹងន្ was amnesty and free rein in Krong Pailin, a mini-province carved out of Battambang This town, located on NH57 20km south- Province to serve as a Khmer Rouge fiefdom. west of Battambang towards Pailin, is home Only in 2007 were Ieng and his wife arrested to two small yet interesting temples. Pra- for war crimes and crimes against human- ity. He died in March 2013, well before the sat Yeay Ten (ប្រាសាទយាយទែន; NH57), completion of the trial. Ieng’s son, Ieng Vuth, currently serves as deputy governor of Pailin. dedicated to Shiva, dates from the end of N o rth w e s te rn Ca m bo d ia PSai gi lhitnsP&r oAcvti ni vciet i e s the 10th century and, although in a ruinous Pailin ប៉ៃលិន state, has above its doorways three delicate- ly carved lintels that somehow survived the % 055 / POP 35,000 ravages of time and war; the eastern one depicts the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. The remote Wild West town of Pailin has The temple is situated on the east side of the little to recommend it except a particularly highway, so close to the road that it resem- colourful hilltop temple. That said, the for- bles an ancient Angkorian tollbooth. ested Cardamom foothills surrounding the city are beautiful. Just don’t wander into Behind Prasat Yeay Ten is a contempo- them by yourself – or you may literally be rary wat; tucked away at the back of the walking into a minefield. wat compound are three brick sanctuar- ies (off NH57) that have some beautifully preserved carvings around the entrances. PAILIN PROVINCE 1 Sights & Activities Pailin (ខេតបត្ ៉ៃលនិ ) is best known for its Wat Phnom Yat BUDDHIST TEMPLE gem mines (now pretty much exhausted), a (វត្តភ ្នំយ៉ាត; off NH57) From NH57, stairs lead surfeit of land mines and for being a refuge through a garish gate up to Wat Phnom Yat, for Khmer Rouge pensioners. a psychedelic temple centred on an ancient po (sacred fig) tree. A 27m Buddha looms During the civil war, the Pailin area’s gem over the top of the staircase, while a path and timber resources – sold on international leads up to the colourful temple and the markets with help from Thai army generals – large golden stupas at the top of the hill. served as the economic crutch that kept the Along the path a life-sized cement tab- Khmer Rouge war machine hobbling along. leau shows naked sinners and their punish- In the mid-1990s, it was a staging area for ments: being heaved into a cauldron (the regular dry-season offensives that overran impious), de-tongued (liars) and forced to government positions as far east as Phnom climb a spiny tree (adulterers). Medieval Sampeau. European triptychs don’t portray a hell that is nearly so scary – a highly pertinent In 1996 the Khmer Rouge supremo in message given who lives around here. The these parts, Ieng Sary – or Brother Number sunrises and sunsets at the top are usually Three during the Democratic Kampuchea nice enough to take your mind off the fire regime – defected to the government side and brimstone. with 3000 heavily armed troops. His reward
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