Lonely Planet Cambodia

349 There are several organised that there are more than In genuine emergencies Directory A–Z Children homestays around the coun- enough of these things in the assistance may be available, try in provinces like Kompong country already. but only if all other channels Cham and Kompong Thom, have been exhausted. If you as well as lots of informal It is also illegal to take have all your money and homestays in out-of-the-way ancient stone sculptures documents stolen, the em- places such as Preah Vihear. from the Angkor period out of bassy can assist with getting The Mekong Discovery Trail the country. a new passport, but a loan includes several homestays for onward travel is out of the between Kratie and the Lao Discount Cards question. border. There are also several Australian Embassy (Map p46; homestays in Banteay Srei Senior travellers and %023-213470; 16 National District near Siem Reap, students are not eligible for Assembly St, Phnom Penh) which is a convenient option discounts in Cambodia. Chinese Embassy (Map p46; for those only planning to %023-720920; 256 Mao Tse visit Angkor. Embassies & Toung Blvd, Phnom Penh) Consulates French Embassy (Map p38; Children %023-430020; 1 Monivong Many countries now have Blvd, Phnom Penh) Children can live it up in embassies in Phnom Penh, German Embassy (Map p46; Cambodia, as they are always though some travellers %023-216381; 76-78 St 214, the centre of attention and will find that their nearest Phnom Penh) almost everybody wants to embassy is in Bangkok. It’s Indian Embassy (Map p38; play with them. This is great important to realise what an %023-210912; 5 St 466, Phnom news when it comes to babes embassy can and can’t do to Penh) in arms and little toddlers, as help if you get into trouble. Indonesian Embassy (Map p38; everyone wants to entertain Generally speaking, it won’t %023-216148; 1 St 466, Phnom them for a time or babysit be much help if the trouble Penh) while you tuck into a plate of is your own fault. Visitors Japanese Embassy (Map p38; noodles. For the full picture are bound by the laws of the %023-217161; 194 Norodom on surviving and thriving on country they are in. The em- Blvd, Phnom Penh) the road, check out Lonely bassy won’t be sympathetic Lao Embassy (Map p58;%023- Planet’s Travel with Children, if you end up in jail after com- 982632; 15-17 Mao Tse Toung which contains useful advice mitting a crime, even if such Blvd, Phnom Penh) on how to cope on the road. actions are legal in your own There is also a rundown on country. health precautions for kids and advice on travel during Electricity pregnancy. Customs 230V/50Hz 230V/50Hz Regulations If Cambodia has customs allowances, it is tight-lipped about them. You are entitled to bring into the country a ‘reasonable amount’ of duty- free items. Travellers arriving by air might bear in mind that alcohol and cigarettes are on sale at prices well below duty-free rates on the streets of Phnom Penh – a branded box of 200 cigarettes costs just US$13 and international spirits start as low as US$7 a litre. Like any other country, Cambodia does not allow travellers to import any weapons, explosives or narcotics – some might say

Directory A–Z Food350 ­limited medical facilities will continue to be around for Malaysian Embassy (%023- mean that you may have to a long time, but if you are a 216177; 220 Norodom Blvd, be airlifted to Bangkok in smoker, be discreet. Phnom Penh) the event of serious injury or Myanmar Embassy (Map p46; illness. This advice applies equally %023-223761; 181 Norodom to other narcotic substances, Blvd, Phnom Penh) Worldwide travel insurance which are also illegal. And Philippine Embassy (Map p58; is available at www.lonely think twice about buying any %023-222303; 15 St 422, planet.com/travel-insurance. pills from a ‘friendly’ street Phnom Penh) You can buy, extend and dealer, as they may turn out Singaporean Embassy (Map claim online anytime – even if to be tranquillisers and you’ll p46; %023-221875; 92 you’re already on the road. wake up as a robbery victim. Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh) Thai Embassy (Map p38; Internet Access Travellers should note %023-726306; 196 Norodom that they can be prosecuted Blvd, Phnom Penh) Internet access is wide- under the law of their home UK Embassy (Map p38; %023- spread, but there are not country regarding age of con- 427124; 27-29 St 75, Phnom as many internet shops as sent, even when abroad. Penh) there used to be now that US Embassy (Map p52; %023- wi-fi is more prevalent. LGBT Travellers 728000; 1 St 96, Charges range from 1500r to Phnom Penh) US$2 per hour. Many hotels, While Cambodian culture is Vietnamese Embassy (Map guesthouses, restaurants tolerant of homosexuality, p58; %023-726274; 436 and cafes now offer free wi-fi, the gay and lesbian scene Monivong Blvd, Phnom even in the most out-of-the- here is certainly nothing Penh) Also has consulates in way provincial capitals. like that in Thailand. Former ­Battambang (Map p238; %053- King Norodom Sihanouk was 952894; St 3; h830-5.30pm Language Courses a keen supporter of equal Mon-Fri), issuing visas in a day; rights for same-sex partners and Sihanoukville (Map p185; The only language courses and this seems to have %034-934039; 310 Ekareach available in Cambodia at encouraged a more open St; h8am-noon & 2-4pm present are in Khmer and attitude among younger Mon-Sat), also with speedy visa are aimed at expat residents Cambodians. Both Phnom processing. of Phnom Penh rather than Penh and Siem Reap have a travellers. Try the Institute few gay-friendly bars, but it’s Food of Foreign Languages at the a low-key scene compared Royal University of Phnom with some parts of Asia. See p336 for the low-down Penh (Map p38; %012 866826; on food in Cambodia. www.rupp.edu.kh; Russian Blvd). With the vast number of Also check out the notice- same-sex travel partners – EATING PRICE boards at popular guest- gay or otherwise – checking RANGES houses, restaurants and bars, into hotels across Cambodia, The following price where one-hour lessons are there is little consideration ranges refer to a stand- often advertised by private over how travelling foreigners ard main course. Unless tutors. There are also regular are related. However, it is otherwise stated, tax is listings under the classifieds prudent not to flaunt your included in the price. in the Phnom Penh Post and sexuality. As with hetero- $ less than US$5 the Cambodia Daily. sexual couples, passionate $$ US$5-15 public displays of affection $$$ more than US$15 Legal Matters are considered a basic no-no. Insurance Marijuana is not legal in Recommended websites Cambodia and the police are when planning a trip: Health insurance is essential. beginning to take a harder Cambodia Gay (www.cambodia Make sure your policy cov- line on it. There have been -gay.com) Promoting the GLBT ers emergency evacuation: several busts (and a few set- community in Cambodia. ups, too) of foreigner-owned Siem Reap Gay Guide (www. bars and restaurants where thesiemreapgayguide.com) Also ganja was smoked – the days produces a free printed guide. of free bowls in guesthouses Sticky Rice (www.stickyrice.ws) are definitely history. Mari­ Gay travel guide covering Cambo- juana is traditionally used dia and Asia. in some Khmer dishes, so it Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com) Gay travel information and contacts, including some local gay terminology.

351 DANGEROUS DRUGS 101 handle it. Stay alert when D i rec to ry A–Z M aps using ATMs late at night. Watch out for yaba, the ‘crazy’ drug from Thailand, known rather ominously in Cambodia as yama (the ANZ Royal Bank has the Hindu god of death). Known as ice or crystal meth most extensive network, elsewhere, it’s not just any old diet pill from the phar- including ATMs at petrol macist but homemade methamphetamines produced stations, and popular hotels, in labs in Cambodia and the region beyond. The pills are restaurants and shops, close- often laced with toxic substances, such as mercury, lith- ly followed by Canadia Bank. ium or whatever else the maker can find. Yama is a dirty Acleda Bank has the widest drug and more addictive than users would like to admit, network of branches in the provoking powerful hallucinations, sleep deprivation and country, including all provin- psychosis. Steer clear of the stuff unless you plan on an cial capitals, making remote indefinite extension to your trip. travel that much easier to plan. Most ATM withdrawals Also be very careful about buying ‘cocaine’ in Cambo- incur a charge of US$3 to dia. Most of what is sold as coke, particularly in Phnom US$5, but ABA Bank offers Penh, is actually pure heroin and far stronger than what free withdrawals. may be found elsewhere. Bargaining Maps the Thai baht (B) is also com- monplace. If three currencies It is important to haggle over The best all-rounder for Cam- seems a little excessive, purchases made in local mar- bodia is the Gecko Cambodia perhaps it’s because the kets in Cambodia, otherwise Road Map. At 1:750,000 Cambodians are making up the stallholder may ‘shave scale, it has lots of detail and for lost time: during the Pol your head’ (local vernacular accurate place names. Other Pot era, the country had no for ‘rip you off’). Bargaining popular foldout maps include currency. The Khmer Rouge is the rule in markets, when Nelles Cambodia, Laos and abolished money and blew up arranging share taxis and Vietnam Map at 1:1,500,000, the National Bank building in pick-ups, and in some guest- although the detail is limited, Phnom Penh. houses. The Khmers are and the Periplus Cambodia not ruthless hagglers, so a Travel Map at 1:1,000,000, The Cambodian riel comes persuasive smile and a little with city maps of Phnom in notes of the following friendly quibbling is usually Penh and Siem Reap. denominations: 100r, 200r, enough to get a fair price. Try 500r, 1000r, 2000r, 5000r, to remember that the aim is Lots of free maps, sub- 10,000r, 20,000r, 50,000r not to get the lowest possi- sidised by advertising, are and 100,000r. ble price, but a price that is available in Phnom Penh and acceptable to both you and Siem Reap at leading hotels, Businesses may quote the seller. Remember that in guesthouses, restaurants prices in US dollars or riel, many cases a few hundred and bars. but in the west it is some- riel is more important to a times baht. While this may Cambodian with a family to Money seem inconsistent, this is the support than to a traveller on way it’s done in Cambodia, an extended vacation. Cambodia’s currency is the and the sooner you get used riel, abbreviated in our list- to thinking comparatively in Cash ings to a lower-case ‘r’ written riel, dollars or baht, the easier after the sum. Cambodia’s your travels will be. The US dollar remains king second currency (some in Cambodia. Armed with would say its first) is the US ATMs enough cash, you won’t need dollar, which is accepted to visit a bank at all because everywhere and by everyone, There are credit-card- it is possible to change small though change may arrive compatible ATMs (Visa, amounts of dollars for riel in riel. Dollar bills with a MasterCard, JCB, Cirrus) in at hotels, restaurants and small tear are unlikely to be most major cities. There are markets. It is always handy accepted by Cambodians, also ATMs at the Cham Yeam, to have about US$10 worth so it’s worth scrutinising the Poipet and Bavet borders if of riel kicking around, as it is change you are given to make arriving by land from Thai- good for motos, remork- sure you don’t have bad bills. land or Vietnam. Machines motos (tuk tuks) and mar- In the west of the country, dispense US dollars or riel. kets. Pay for something Large withdrawals of up to cheap in US dollars and the US$2000 are possible, change comes in riel. providing your account can The only other currency that can be useful is Thai baht, mainly in the west of the country. Prices in towns such as Koh Kong, Poipet and

352 D i rec to ry A–Z Op e n i n g H o u r s tambang, Kompong Cham to pay about 2% commission and other major towns. Most to change them. TIPPING TIPS banks advertise a minimum charge of US$5, but Canadia Opening Hours In many Cambodian res- Bank offers this service for taurants, change will be free. Most Cambodians get up returned in some sort of very early and it’s not unusual bill holder. If you leave Several travel agents and to see people out and about the change there it will hotels in Phnom Penh and exercising at 5.30am if you often be taken by the Siem Reap can arrange cash are heading home – ahem, restaurant proprietor. If advances for about 5% com- sorry, getting up – at that you want to make sure mission; this can be particu- time. the tip goes to the staff larly useful if you get caught Banks Hours vary slightly who have served you, short at the weekend. according to the bank, but most leave the tip on the table keep core hours of 8am to or give it to the individ- Tipping 3.30pm Monday to Friday, plus uals directly. In some Saturday morning. places, there may be a Tipping is not traditionally Bars Many are open all day, but communal tip box that expected here, but in a coun- some open only for the night is shared by staff. try as poor as Cambodia, tips shift, especially if they don’t can go a long way. Salaries serve food. Sisophon are often quoted remain extremely low and Government offices Open from in baht, and even in Battam- service is often friendly and Monday to Friday and on Satur- bang it is common. attentive. Many of the upmar- day mornings. They theoretically ket hotels levy a 10% service begin the working day at 7.30am, In the interests of making charge, but this doesn’t break for a siesta from 11.30am life as simple as possible always make it to the staff. If to 2pm, and end the day at 5pm. when travelling overland, or- you stay a couple of nights in Attractions such as museums ganise a supply of US dollars the same hotel, try to remem- are normally open seven days before arriving in Cambodia. ber to tip the staff who clean a week. Cash in other major curren- your room. Consider tipping Local markets These operate cies can be changed at banks drivers and guides, as the seven days a week and usually or markets in Phnom Penh time they spend on the road open and close with the sun, or Siem Reap. However, most means time away from home running from 6.30am to 5.30pm. banks tend to offer a poor and family. They close for a few days during rate for any non-dollar trans- the major holidays of Chaul action so it can be better to It is considered proper to Chnam Khmer (Khmer New use moneychangers, which make a small donation at the Year), P’chum Ben (Festival of the are found in and around every end of a visit to a wat, espe- Dead) and Chaul Chnam Chen major market. cially if a monk has shown (Chinese New Year). you around; most wats have Restaurants Local restaurants Western Union and Money­ contribution boxes for this generally open from about Gram are both represented purpose. 6.30am until 9pm and may in Cambodia for fast, if more stay open throughout that time. expensive, money transfers. Travellers Cheques International restaurants stay Western Union is represented open a little later and sometimes by Acleda Bank, and Money- Most branches of Acleda close between sittings. Gram by Canadia Bank. Bank change travellers cheques to cash, bringing Credit Cards financial freedom to far-flung provinces like Ratanakiri and Top-end hotels, airline offices Mondulkiri. It is best to have and upmarket boutiques cheques in US dollars; expect and restaurants generally accept most major credit SHOPPING cards (Visa, MasterCard, JCB and sometimes American High-quality handmade crafts, including silk clothing Express), but many pass the and accessories, stone and wood carvings, and silver, are charges straight on to the widely available, especially in Siem Reap, Phnom Penh customer, meaning an extra and towns with particular handicraft specialities. Hill 2% to 3% on your bill. tribes in Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri produce hand-woven cotton in small quantities. In our coverage of Phnom Cash advances on cred- Penh and Siem Reap, we focus on shops and organisa- it cards are available in tions that contribute to reviving traditional crafts and Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, supporting people who are disadvantaged or disabled. Sihanoukville, Kampot, Bat-

353 Shops Tend to open from about FESTIVAL WARNING D i rec to ry A–Z P h o t o g r ap h y 8am until 6pm, although shops in malls are usually open until In the run-up to major festivals such as P’chum Ben about 8pm, as are supermarkets. or Chaul Chnam Khmer, there is a palpable increase in There are 24-hour minimarts in the number of robberies, particularly in Phnom Penh. most big cities. Cambodians need money to buy gifts for relatives or to pay off debts, and for some individuals theft is the Photography quickest way to get this money. Be more vigilant at night at these times and don’t take valuables out with you Many internet cafes in ­unnecessarily. Cambodia will burn CDs or DVDs from digital images Ensure postcards and letters Constitution Day 24 September using card readers or USB are franked before they van- Commemoration Day 15 connections. The price is ish from your sight. October about US$2.50 if you need Independence Day 9 November a DVD or US$1.50 for a CD. Letters and parcels sent International Human Rights Digital memory sticks are further afield than Asia can Day 10 December widely available in Cambodia take up to two or three weeks and are pretty cheap. Digital to reach their destination. Safe Travel cameras are a real bargain Use a courier to speed things thanks to low tax and duty, up; EMS (%023-723511; www. Cambodia is a pretty safe so consider picking up a new ems.com.kh; Main Post Office, St country for travellers these model in Phnom Penh, rather 13, Phnom Penh) has branches days, but remember the than Bangkok or Saigon. at every major post office in golden rule: stick to marked the country. DHL and Fed Ex paths in remote areas (be- Make sure you have the are present in major cities like cause of land mines). necessary charger, plugs Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and and transformer for Cam- Sihanoukville. The Cambodia Daily bodia. Take care with some (www.cambodiadaily.com) of the electrical wiring in Public Holidays and the Phnom Penh Post guesthouses around the (www.phnompenhpost.com) country, as it can be pretty Banks, ministries and embas- are both good sources for amateurish. sies close down during public breaking news. Check their holidays and festivals, so plan websites before you hit the Photographing ahead if visiting Cambodia road. People during these times. Cambo- dians also roll over holidays Crime & Violence The usual rules apply. Be if they fall on a weekend polite about photographing and take a day or two extra Given the number of guns people, don’t push cameras during major festivals. Add in Cambodia, there is less into their faces, and show to this the fact that they take armed theft than one might respect for monks and peo- a holiday for international expect. Still, hold-ups and ple at prayer. In general, the days here and there, and it motorcycle theft are a poten- Khmers are remarkably cour- soon becomes apparent that tial danger in Phnom Penh teous people and if you ask Cambodia has more public and Sihanoukville. There is nicely, they’ll agree to have holidays than any other na- no need to be paranoid, just their photograph taken. The tion on earth! cautious. Walking or riding same goes for filming, al- International New Year’s Day alone late at night is not ideal, though in rural areas you will 1 January particularly in rural areas. often find children desperate Victory over the Genocide 7 to get in front of the lens and January There have been incidents astonished at seeing them- International Women’s Day 8 of bag snatching in Phnom selves played back on an LCD March Penh in the last few years and screen. Some people will International Workers’ Day the motorbike thieves don’t expect money in return for 1 May let go, dragging passengers their photo being snapped; International Children’s Day off motos (motorcycle taxis) be sure to establish this be- 8 May and endangering lives. fore clicking away. King’s Birthday 13-15 May King Mother’s Birthday 18 June Should anyone be unlucky Post enough to be robbed, it is important to note that getting The postal service is hit and help from the police, such miss from Cambodia; send as a police report, is going anything valuable by courier to cost you. The going rate or from another country.

Directory A–Z Telephone354 Scams Telephone depends on the size of the claim, but anywhere from Most scams are fairly Cambodia’s landline system US$5 to US$50 is a common harmless, involving a bit of was totally devastated by charge. commission here and there the long civil war, leaving the Violence against foreigners for taxi or moto drivers, par- country with a poor com- is extremely rare, but it pays ticularly in Siem Reap. munications infrastructure. to take care in crowded bars The advent of mobile phones or nightclubs in Phnom Penh. There have been one or has allowed Cambodia to If you get into a stand-off with two reports of police set-ups catch up with its regional rich young Khmers in a bar in Phnom Penh, involving neighbours by jumping or club, swallow your pride planted drugs. This seems headlong into the technology and back down. Many carry to be very rare, but if you fall revolution. Mobile phones guns and have an entourage victim to the ploy, it may be are everywhere in Cambodia, of bodyguards. Sihanoukville best to pay them off before but landline access in major also has a reputation for more police get involved at towns is also improving, con- occasional violent incidents, the local station, as the price necting more of the country usually between rival groups will only rise when there are to the outside world than ever of foreign business owners. more mouths to feed. before. In this guide, landline area codes appear under Mines, Mortars & There is quite a lot of fake the name of each city, but in Bombs medication floating about the many areas service is spotty. region. Safeguard yourself Never touch any rockets, ar- by only buying prescription With the explosion of wi-fi tillery shells, mortars, mines, drugs from reliable pharma- in towns and cities, it is usu- bombs or other war material cies or clinics. ally possible to use FaceTime, you may come across. The Skype or Viber at any guest- most heavily mined part of Beware the Filipino black- house, hotel, cafe or restau- the country is along the Thai jack scam: don’t get involved rant. Some guesthouses and border area, but mines are in any gambling with seem- hotels also have terminals in a problem in much of Cam- ingly friendly Filipinos unless the lobby for the free use of bodia. In short: do not stray you want to part with plenty guests. from well-marked paths of cash. under any circumstances. If For telephone listings of you are planning any walks, Beggars in places such as businesses and government even in safer areas such as Phnom Penh and Siem Reap offices, check out www. the remote northeast, it is im- may ask for milk powder yp.com.kh. perative you take a guide as for an infant in arms. Some there may still be unexploded foreigners succumb to the Mobile Phones ordnance (UXO) from the urge to help, but the beggars American bombing campaign usually request the most Mobile phones, whose num- of the early 1970s. expensive milk formula avail- bers start with %01, 06, 07, able and return it to the shop 08 or 09, are hugely popular to split the proceeds after the with both individuals and handover. commercial enterprises. GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE When travelling with a mobile phone on internation- Travel advisories on government-run websites update al roaming, just select a net- nationals on the latest security situation in any given work upon arrival, dial away country. and await a hefty phone bill once you return home. Note Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www. to self: Cambodian roaming smartraveller.gov.au) charges are extraordinarily Canadian Government (www.voyage.gc.ca) high. German Foreign Office (www.auswaertiges-amt.de) Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.anzen. Those who plan on spend- mofa.go.jp) ing longer in Cambodia Netherlands Government (www.minbuza.nl) should arrange a SIM card New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.safe for one of the local service travel.govt.nz) providers. Foreigners need to UK Foreign Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice) present a valid passport to US Department of State (www.travel.state.gov) get a local SIM card, but they are available free on arrival at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap international airports. Most mobile companies now offer cheap internet- based phone calls accessed

355 through a gateway number. may be land mines not far times. Most guesthouses and Directory A–Z Time Look up the cheap prefix and from the road or track. Stay small hotels have ground- calls will be just US10¢ or less on the roadside and do the floor rooms that are reasona- per minute. deed, or grin and bear it until bly easy to access. the next town. Time The biggest headache Tourist also happens to be the main Cambodia (like Laos, Vietnam Information attraction – the temples and Thailand) is seven hours of Angkor. Causeways are ahead of Greenwich Mean Cambodia has only a handful uneven, obstacles common Time or Universal Time Co- of tourist offices, and those and staircases daunting, even ordinated (GMT/UTC). When encountered by the inde- for able-bodied people. It is it is midday in Cambodia, it pendent traveller in Phnom likely to be some years before is 10pm the previous evening Penh and Siem Reap are things improve, although in San Francisco, 1am in New generally of limited help. some ramping is now being York, 5am in London, 6am in However, in the provinces it is introduced at major temples. Paris and 3pm in Sydney. a different story, as the staff are sometimes happy to see Wheelchair travellers Toilets visitors, if the office happens will need to undertake a lot to be open. These offices of research before visiting Cambodian toilets are mostly generally have little in the way Cambodia. There is a grow- of the sit-down variety. The of brochures or handouts ing network of information occasional squat toilet turns though. Generally speaking, sources that can put you in up here and there, particu- fellow travellers, guesthous- touch with others who have larly in the most budget of es, hotels and free local mag- wheeled through Cambodia budget guesthouses in the azines are more useful than before. Try contacting the provinces or out the back of tourist offices. following: provincial restaurants. Cambodia has no official Disability Rights UK (http:// The issue of toilets and tourist offices abroad and it disabilityrightsuk.org) what to do with used toilet is unlikely that Cambodian paper is a cause for concern. embassies will be of much Mobility International USA Generally, if there’s a waste- assistance in planning a (www.miusa.org) paper basket next to the trip, besides issuing visas, toilet, that is where the toilet which are available on arrival Society for Accessible Travel paper goes, as many sewer- anyway. & Hospitality (SATH; www. age systems cannot handle sath.org) toilet paper. Toilet paper is Travellers with seldom provided in the toilets Disabilities Visas at bus stations or in other public buildings, so keep a Broken pavements, potholed Most visitors to Cambodia stash with you at all times. roads and stairs as steep as require a one-month tourist ladders at Angkor ensure that visa (US$30). Most national- Many Western toilets also for most people with mobility ities receive this on arrival at have a hose spray in the bath- impairments, Cambodia is Phnom Penh and Siem Reap room, aptly named the ‘bum not going to be an easy coun- airports, and at land borders, gun’ by some. Think of this try in which to travel. Few but citizens of Afghanistan, as a flexible bidet, used for buildings have been designed Algeria, Bangladesh, Iran, cleaning and ablutions as well with the disabled in mind, al- Iraq, Nigeria, Pakistan, Saudi as hosing down the loo. though new projects, such as Arabia, Sri Lanka and Su- the international airports at dan need to make advance Public toilets are rare, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, arrangements. Passport the only ones in the country and top-end hotels, include holders from Asean member being along Phnom Penh’s ramps for wheelchair access. countries do not require a riverfront and some beautiful Transport in the provinces is visa to visit Cambodia. One wooden structures dotted usually very overcrowded, but passport-sized photo is about the temples of Angkor. taxi hire from point to point is required and you’ll be ‘fined’ The charge is usually 500r an affordable option. US$2 if you don’t have one. It for a public toilet, although is also possible to arrange a they are free at Angkor. Most On the positive side, the visa through Cambodian em- local restaurants have some Cambodian people are usu- bassies overseas or an online sort of toilet. ally very helpful towards all e-visa (US$30, plus a US$5 foreigners, and local labour processing fee) through the Should you find nature is cheap if you need some- Ministry of Foreign Affairs calling in remote border ar- one to accompany you at all (www.mfaic.gov.kh). eas, don’t let modesty drive you into the bushes: there Those seeking work in Cambodia should opt for the business visa (US$35) as it is

356 Directory A–Z Volunteering via the Vietnamese consulate some motorbike-rental shops easily extended for long pe- in Sihanoukville. Most visitors in Phnom Penh can help with riods, including multiple en- to Laos can obtain a visa on arrangements, sometimes at tries and exits. A tourist visa arrival (US$30 to US$42) a discounted price. can be extended only once and most visitors heading to and only for one month, and Thailand do not need a visa. Volunteering does not allow for re-entry. Travellers are sometimes Visa Extensions There are fewer opportunities overcharged when crossing for volunteering than one at land borders with Thailand, Visa extensions are issued by might imagine in a country as as immigration officials de- the large immigration office impoverished as Cambodia. mand payment in baht and located directly across the This is partly due to the sheer round up the figure consid- road from Phnom Penh Inter- number of professional devel- erably. Overcharging is also national Airport. opment workers based here, an issue at the Laos border, and development is a pretty but not usually at Vietnam Extensions are easy to ar- lucrative industry these days. borders. Arranging a visa in range, taking just a couple of advance can help avoid over- days. It costs US$45 for one Cambodia hosts a huge charging. month (for both tourist and number of NGOs, some of Overstaying a visa current- business visas), US$75 for which do require volunteers ly costs US$5 a day. three months, US$155 for six from time to time. The best For visitors continuing months and US$285 for one way to find out who is rep- to Vietnam, one-month year (the last three prices resented in the country is to ­single-entry visas cost relate to business visas only). drop in on the Cooperation US$55 and take two days in It’s pretty straightforward Committee for Cambodia Phnom Penh, or just one day to extend business visas ad infinitum. Travel agencies and THE PERILS OF ORPHANAGE TOURISM In recent years, visiting orphanages in the developing world – Cambodia in particular – has become a popular activity, but is it always good for the children and the country in the longer run? Tough question. ‘Orphan tourism’ and all the connotations that come with it are a disturbing development that is bringing unscrupulous elements into the world of caring for Cambodian children. There have already been reports of new or- phanages opening up with a business model to bring in a certain number of visitors per month. In other cases, the children are not orphans at all, but are ‘borrowed’ from the local school for a fee. In a report released in 2009, Save the Children stated that most children living in orphanages throughout the developing world have at least one parent still alive. More than eight million children worldwide are living in institutions, with most sent there by their families because of poverty rather than the death of a parent. Many are in danger of abuse and neglect from carers, as well as exploitation and international trafficking, with children aged under three most at risk. The Save the Children report states: ‘One of the biggest myths is that children in or- phanages are there because they have no parents. This is not the case. Most are there because their parents simply can’t afford to feed, clothe and educate them.’ From 2005 to 2010, the number of orphanages in Cambodia almost doubled from 153 to 269. Of the 12,000 Cambodian children in institutions, only about 28% are genuine orphans without both parents. Many orphanages in Cambodia are doing a good job in tough circumstances. Some are world class, enjoy funding and support from wealthy benefactors, and don’t need visitors; others are desperate places that need all the help they can get. However, if a place is promoting orphan tourism, then proceed with caution, as the adults may not always have the best interests of the children at heart. Child-welfare experts also recom- mend that any volunteering concerning children should involve a minimum three-month commitment – having strangers drop in and out of their lives on short visits can be detri- mental to a child’s emotional well-being and development. Friends International and Unicef joined forces in 2011 to launch the ‘Think Before Visiting’ campaign. Learn more at www.thinkchildsafe.org/thinkbeforevisiting before you inadvertently contribute to the problem.

(CCC; %023-214152; www. are available at www.unv.org. 357D i rec to ry A–Z W o m e n T r av e l l e r s ccc-cambodia.org; 9-11 St 476) Other general volunteer sites in Phnom Penh. This organ- with links all over the place Work isation has a handy list of all include www.voluntourism. NGOs, both Cambodian and org and www.goabroad.com/ Jobs are available throughout international, and is extreme- volunteer-abroad. Cambodia, but apart from ly helpful. teaching English or helping Women Travellers out in guesthouses, bars or There are a couple of pro- restaurants, most are for pro- fessional Siem Reap–based Women will generally find fessionals and are arranged organisations helping to Cambodia a hassle-free place in advance. There is a lot of place volunteers. ConCERT to travel, although some of teaching work available for (Map p96; %063-963511; www. the guys in the guesthouse English-language speakers; concertcambodia.org; 560 industry will try their luck salary is directly linked to Phum Stoueng Thmey; h9am- from time to time. Foreign experience. Anyone with an 5pm Mon-Fri) has a ‘responsi- women are unlikely to be English-language teaching ble volunteering’ section on targeted by local men, and certificate can earn consider- its website that offers some will probably find Khmer men ably more than those with no sound advice on preparing to be courteous and polite. qualifications. for a stint as a volunteer. At the same time it pays to Globalteer (%063-761802; be careful. As is the case in For information about www.globalteer.org) coordi- many places, walking or rid- work opportunities with nates the Cambodia Kids ing a bike alone late at night NGOs, call into Phnom Penh’s Project and offers volunteer is risky, and if you’re planning Cooperation Committee placements with various a trip off the beaten track it for Cambodia (CCC; %023- projects, but this does involve would be best to find a travel 214152; www.ccc-cambodia.org; a weekly charge. companion. 9-11 St 476), which has a noticeboard for positions The other avenue is Khmer women dress fairly vacant. If you are thinking of professional volunteering conservatively. It’s best to applying for work with NGOs, through an organisation follow suit, particularly when you should bring copies of back home that offers one- visiting wats. In general, long- your education certificates or two-year placements in sleeved shirts and long trou- and work references. Howev- Cambodia. One of the largest sers or skirts are preferred. It er, most of the jobs available organisations is Voluntary is also worth having trousers are likely to be on a voluntary Service Overseas (www.vso. for heading out at night on basis, as most recruiting for org.uk) in the UK, but other motos, as short skirts aren’t specialised positions is done countries also have their very practical. in home countries or through own organisations, including international organisations. Australian Volunteers Inter- Tampons and sanitary national (www.australian napkins are widely available Other places to look for volunteers.com) and New in the major cities and pro- work include the classifieds Zealand’s Volunteer Service vincial capitals, but if you are sections of the Phnom Penh Abroad (www.vsa.org.nz). heading into very remote ar- Post and the Cambodia The UN also operates its own eas for a few days, it is worth Daily, and on noticeboards at volunteer program; details having your own supply. guesthouses and restaurants in Phnom Penh.

35 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Transport GETTING THERE It’s also important to make iest connections from major & AWAY sure that there is plenty of cities in Europe, the USA and space left in the passport, Australia. Singapore Airlines’ Entering the as a Cambodian visa alone regional wing, Silk Air, and Country takes up one page. budget airline Jetstar offer at least one flight per day con- Cambodia has two interna- Losing a passport is not necting Cambodia to Singa- tional gateways for arrival by the end of the world, but it is pore. Other regional centres air – Phnom Penh and Siem a serious inconvenience. To with flights to Cambodia are Reap – and a healthy se- expedite the issuing of a new Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), lection of land borders with passport, keep a photocopy Hanoi, Vientiane, Luang Pra- neighbouring Thailand, Viet- of your passport photo page. bang, Pakse, Kuala Lumpur, nam and Laos. Formalities Seoul, Taipei, Hong Kong, at Cambodia’s international Air Guangzhou and Shanghai. airports are traditionally Further afield, there is also a smoother than at land bor- Airports & Airlines route to Doha in the Middle ders, as the volume of traffic East. is greater. Crossing at land Phnom Penh International borders is relatively easy, but Domestic airlines in Cam- immigration officers may Airport (សិប្បកម​ ក្ម សាងព្រះ​ bodia tend to open up and try to wangle some extra ពុទរធ្ បូ ព្រះយវូ ង្ស; PNH; close down regularly. Given cash, either for the visa or via the choice, enter the country some other scam. Anyone %023-890890; www.cambodia- on an international carrier without a photo for their visa airports.com) Gateway to the rather than a local outfit. form will be charged about Cambodian capital. US$2 at the airport, and Siem Reap International Air- Some airlines offer open- around 100B at land borders port (Map p130; %063-761261; jaw tickets into Phnom Penh with Thailand. www.cambodia-airports.com) and out of Siem Reap, which Serves visitors to the temples can save some time and Arrival by air is popular for of Angkor. Both airports have a money. Tickets are available those on a short holiday, as good range of services, including directly from the airlines or travelling overland to or from restaurants, bars, shops and through travel agencies in Cambodia puts a dent in the ATMs. Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. time in-country. Travellers on Sihanoukville Inter- Air Asia (www.airasia.com) Daily longer trips usually enter and national Airport (%012- budget flights connecting Phnom exit by land, as road and river 333524; www.cambodia- Penh and Siem Reap to Kuala transport is very reasonably airports.com) Currently only Lumpur and Bangkok. priced in Cambodia. offers domestic links with Asiana Airlines (www.asiana. Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. co.kr) Regular connections be- Passport Flights to Cambodia are ex- tween Phnom Penh and Seoul. panding, but most connect Bangkok Airways (www.bang Not only is a passport essen- only as far as regional capi- kokair.com) Daily connections tial, but it also needs to be tals. However, budget airlines from Phnom Penh and Siem valid for at least six months have taken off in recent years Reap to Bangkok. or Cambodian immigration and are steadily driving down Cambodia Angkor Air (www. will not issue a visa. prices. cambodiaangkorair.com) Daily connections from Phnom Penh If you are heading to and Siem Reap to Bangkok, Cambodia for a short holiday and want a minimum of fuss, Thai Airways offers the eas-

359 CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Tr a nsp o rt L and Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with con- tributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel. Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and Thai Airways (www.thaiair.com) for petty extortion. Travellers Guangzhou; also from Phnom Daily flights connecting Phnom are occasionally asked for Penh to Vientiane and Hanoi. Penh and Bangkok. a small ‘immigration fee’ Cebu Pacific (www.cebupacific Vietnam Airlines (www.viet- of some kind or some sort air.com) Budget flights between namair.com.vn) Daily flights of bogus health certificate Siem Reap and Manila three linking both Phnom Penh and costing US$1. More serious times a week. Siem Reap with both Hanoi and scams include overcharging China Eastern Airlines (www. Ho Chi Minh City, as well as for visas by demanding ce-air.com) Regular flights from Phnom Penh with Vientiane, and payment in Thai baht and Phnom Penh to Shanghai. Siem Reap with Luang Prabang, forcing tourists to change China Southern Airlines (www. Danang and Phu Quoc. US dollars into riel at a poor cs-air.com) Daily flights from rate. Hold your breath, stand Phnom Penh to Guangzhou. Land your ground, and don’t let Dragon Air (www.dragonair.com) this experience flavour your Daily flights between Phnom Border Crossings impression of Cambodians Penh and Hong Kong. overall. Eva Air (www.evaair.com) Daily Cambodia shares one border flights between Phnom Penh crossing with Laos, five cross- Before making a long-­ and Taipei. ings with Thailand and seven distance trip, be aware of Jetstar (www.jetstar.com) with Vietnam. Cambodian border closing times, visa Daily budget flights from both visas are now available at all regulations and any trans- Phnom Penh and Siem Reap to the land crossings with Laos, port scams. Border details Singapore. Thailand and Vietnam. Neigh- change regularly, so ask Korean Air (www.koreanair. bouring visas are available on around or check the Lonely com) Regular flights connecting arrival in Laos and Thailand Planet Thorn Tree (lonely Phnom Penh and Siem Reap with but are only available to lim- planet.com/thorntree). Seoul and Incheon. ited nationalities on arrival in Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines. Vietnam, so check your pass- LAOS com) Regular flights from port status before heading to Cambodia and Laos share a Phnom Penh to Vientiane and the border. Most borders are remote frontier that includes from Siem Reap to Pakse and open during the core hours of some of the wildest areas of Luang Prabang. 7am to 5pm. However, some both countries. There is only Malaysia Airlines (www. of the most popular crossings one border crossing open to malaysiaairlines.com) Daily con- are open later in the evening foreigners. nections from Phnom Penh and and other more remote cross- Siem Reap to Kuala Lumpur. ings close for lunch. THAILAND Qatar Airways (www.qatarair Cambodia and Thailand ways.com) Regular flights from There are few legal share an 805km border and Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City ­money-changing facilities there are now five legal inter- and Doha. at some of the more remote national border crossings, Silk Air (www.silkair.com) Daily border crossings, so be and many more options for flights linking Phnom Penh and sure to have some small-­ locals. Siem Reap with Singapore, plus denomination US dollars some flights between Siem Reap handy. VIETNAM and Danang. Cambodia and Vietnam Tourist visas are available share a long frontier with a at all crossings for US$30, bevy of border crossings. but Cambodian immigration Foreigners are currently officers at the land border permitted to cross at seven crossings, especially with places. Cambodian visas are Thailand, have a reputation

360 0 50 km 0 25 miles Border Crossings THAILAND LAOS Tr a nsp o rt T o u rs Chong Jom Chong Prasat Preah Sa-Ngam Vihear O Smach Anlong Sra Em Muang Khong Samraong Choam Veng Aranya Nong Nok Khiene Le Thanh Prathet Tbeng Trapeang Poipet Sisophon Meanchey Kriel Ban O Yadaw Lung Siem Reap Battambang Ban Pakard Psar Pruhm Pailin Pursat Kompong Kompong Thom Luong Krakor Kratie Sen Monorom Kompong Skuon Kompong Snuol Trapeang Sre Chhnang Cham Romeas Khlong Yai Udong Trapeang Loc Ninh Hat Lek Koh Kong PHNOM PENH Prey Phlong City Kompong Speu Veng Svay Xa Mat Cham Yeam Rieng Tay VIETNAM Kaam Banteay Ninh Samnor Chakrey Bavet Moc Bai Takeo Khanh Phnom Binh Vinh Xuong Sihanoukville Kampot Den Chau Doc HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON) Kep Prek Chak Bien Xa Xia Tinh Ha Tien now available at all crossings, Tours Flights and tours can be but two-week Vietnamese booked online at lonely visas are only available on In the early days of tourism planet.com/bookings. arrival for a handful of in Cambodia, organised nationalities. tours were a near necessity. Shop around before book- The situation has changed ing a tour, as there is lots of Car & Motorcycle dramatically and it is now competition and some com- much easier to organise your panies offer more interesting Car drivers and motorcycle own trip. Budget and mid- itineraries than others. The riders will need registration range travellers in particular following are reliable compa- papers, insurance docu- can go it alone, as arrange- nies based in Cambodia. ments and an International ments are cheap and easy About Asia (%063-760190; Driving Licence (although not on the ground. If you are on www.aboutasiatravel.com) officially recognised) to bring a tight schedule, it can pay Small bespoke travel company vehicles into Cambodia. It is to book a domestic flight in specialising in Siem Reap. Profits complicated to bring in a car advance if you’re planning to help build schools in Cambodia. but relatively straightforward link the temples of Angkor Hanuman (%023-218396; to bring in a motorcycle, as and Siem Reap with Cambo- www.hanuman.travel) Long- long as you have a carnet de dia’s capital, Phnom Penh. running, locally owned, locally passage (vehicle passport). Once at Angkor, guides and operated company with innova- This acts as a temporary all forms of transport under tive tours like Temple Safari. Big import-duty waiver and the sun are plentiful. supporter of responsible tourism should save a lot of hassles initiatives. when dealing with Cambodi- an customs.

361 Journeys Within (%063- Prices are higher than the ­Cambodia. PEPY promotes Tr a nsp o rt A ir 964748; www.journeys-within. competition. ‘adventurous living, responsible com) A boutique tourism Cambodia Bayon Airlines giving’ and uses proceeds to help company based in Siem Reap (%023-231555; www.bayonair build schools in rural Cambodia that offers various cross-border lines.com) Has at least one flight and fund education programs. trips in addition to appealing daily between Phnom Penh and For more on cycling in tours within Cambodia. Operates Siem Reap and Siem Reap and Cambodia, see the Outdoor a charitable arm helping schools Sihanoukville. Adventures chapter (p28). and communities. Sam Veasna Center (%063- Helicopter Boat 963710; www.samveasna.org) S Day trips that combine bird- There are two private heli- Cambodia’s 1900km of nav- watching with visits to outlying copter companies offering igable waterways are not as temples. scenic flights over the tem- important as they once were There are also motorbike ples of Angkor and charter for the average tourist, given touring companies recom- flights for high-flyers. major road improvements. mended later in this section Helicopters Cambodia (Map North of Phnom Penh, the (p363), as well as specialist p96;%012 814500; www. Mekong is easily navigable travel companies in Siem helicopterscambodia.com) as far as Kratie, but there are Reap (p102) offering Angkor Has offices in Phnom Penh and no longer regular passenger experiences and more. Siem Reap and is affiliated with services on these routes, as Helicopters New Zealand. buses have taken all the busi- GETTING Helistar (Map p96;%088 888 ness. There are scenic boat AROUND 0016; www.helistarcambodia. services between Siem Reap com) A reliable helicopter com- and Battambang, and the Air pany with offices in both Phnom Tonlé Sap lake is also naviga- Penh and Siem Reap. ble year-round, although only Airlines in Cambodia by smaller boats between Bicycle March and July. Domestic flights offer a quick way to travel around the Cambodia is a great country Traditionally the most country. The problem is that for experienced cyclists to popular boat services with the airlines themselves seem explore. A mountain bike is foreigners are those that to come and go pretty quick- the recommended set of run between Phnom Penh ly as well. There are currently wheels thanks to the notori- and Siem Reap. The express three domestic airlines in ous state of the roads. Most services do the trip in as Cambodia, operating flights roads have a flat unpaved little as five hours, but it’s between Phnom Penh and trail along the side, which is not the most interesting boat Siem Reap and Siem Reap useful for cyclists. journey in Cambodia, as the and Sihanoukville. There are Tonlé Sap lake is like a vast around seven flights a day Much of Cambodia is sea, offering little scenery. between Phnom Penh and pancake flat or only moder- It’s more popular (and much Siem Reap and it is usually ately hilly. Safety, however, cheaper) to take a bus on the possible to get on a flight at is a considerable concern on paved road instead. short notice. Book ahead in the newer surfaced roads, peak season. There are cur- as local traffic travels at high The small boat between rently about three flights per speed. Bicycles can be trans- Siem Reap and Battambang day between Siem Reap and ported around the country is more rewarding, as the Sihanoukville in peak season. in the back of pick-ups or on river scenery is truly memo- Bassaka Air (%023-217613; the roof of minibuses. rable, but it can take as long www.bassakaair.com) Offers at as a whole day with delays. least one flight daily between Guesthouses and hotels in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and Cambodia rent out bicycles Bus Siem Reap and Sihanoukville. for around US$2 per day, or Cambodia Angkor Air (%023- US$7 to US$15 for an im- The range of road transport 212564; www.cambodiaangko ported brand such as Giant is extensive. On sealed roads, rair.com) The national carrier or Trek. the large air-conditioned offers four flights a day between buses are the best choice. Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and Top bikes, safety equip- Elsewhere in the country, a up to two flights a day between ment and authentic spare shared taxi or minibus is the Siem Reap and Sihanoukville. parts are now readily avail- way to go. able in Phnom Penh at very reasonable prices. Bus services have come PEPY Ride (%023-222804; on in leaps and bounds in www.pepyride.org) A bicycle the last few years and the and volunteer tour company s­ ituation is getting even offering adventures throughout

362 POPULAR LAND CROSSINGS Laos For Laos, the Trapeang Kriel–Nong Nok Khiene crossing connects Stung Treng in Cambodia with Don Det in Laos. Thailand Tr a nsp o rt C ar & M o t o rcycle BORDER CROSSING CAMBODIAN TOWN CONNECTING TOWN Cham Yeam–Hat Lek Koh Kong City Trat Choam–Chong Sa-Ngam Anlong Veng Phusing O Smach–Chong Jom Samraong Surin Poipet–Aranya Prathet Siem Reap Bangkok Psar Pruhm–Ban Pakard Pailin Chanthaburi Vietnam BORDER CROSSING CAMBODIAN TOWN CONNECTING TOWN Bavet–Moc Bai Phnom Penh Ho Chi Minh City Kaam Samnor–Vinh Xuong Phnom Penh Chau Doc O Yadaw–Le Thanh Ban Lung Pleiku, Quy Nhon, Hoi An Phnom Den–Tinh Bien Takeo Chau Doc Prek Chak–Xa Xia Kep, Kampot Ha Tien, Phu Quoc Trapeang Phlong–Xa Mat Kompong Cham Tay Ninh, Ho Chi Minh City Trapeang Sre–Loc Ninh Kratie, Kompong Cham Binh Long better as more roads are Car & Motorcycle coming to live and work in upgraded. Bus travel is ar- Cambodia. guably the safest way to get Car and motorcycle rental around the country these are comparatively cheap in When it comes to renting days. The services used Cambodia and many visitors motorcycles, it’s a case of no most regularly by foreigners rent a car or bike for greater licence required. If you can are those from Phnom Penh flexibility to visit out-of-the- drive the bike out of the shop, to Siem Reap, Battambang, way places and to stop when you can drive it anywhere, or Sihanoukville, Kompong they choose. Almost all car so the logic goes. Cham and Kratie, and the rental in Cambodia includes tourist buses from Siem a driver, which is good news Fuel & Spare Parts Reap to Poipet. given the abysmal state of many roads, the lack of road Fuel is relatively expensive ‘Express minibuses’ now signs and the disregard for in Cambodia compared with connect Phnom Penh and road rules displayed by some other staples, at around major cities around the coun- drivers. 4000r to 5000r (US$1 to try and these can be faster US$1.25) a litre. Fuel is read- than the bigger buses. These Driving Licences ily available throughout the minibuses are usually mod- country, but prices generally ern Ford Transits or Toyota A standard driving licence is rise in rural areas. Even the HiAces and operate a one not much use in Cambodia. most isolated communities seat/one passenger policy. In theory, to drive a car you usually have someone selling Older minibuses serve most need an International Driv- petrol out of Fanta or Johnnie provincial routes but are ing Licence, usually issued Walker bottles. Some sellers not widely used by Western through your automobile mix this fuel with kerosene visitors. They are very cheap association back home, but to make a quick profit – use but often uncomfortably Cambodia is not currently a it sparingly, in emergencies overcrowded and sometimes recognised country. It is very only. driven by maniacs. Only real- unlikely that a driving licence ly consider them if there is no will be of any use to most When it comes to spare alternative. travellers, save for those parts, Cambodia is flooded with Chinese, Japanese and Korean motorcycles, so it’s easy to get parts for Hondas,

363 Yamahas or Suzukis, but Phnom Penh, Siem Reap Red Raid Cambodia (www. Tr a nsp o rt C ar & M o t o rcycle finding a part for a BMW or and Battambang. If you have motorcycletourscambodia.com) Harley is another matter. The never ridden a motorcycle More expensive but experienced same goes for cars – spares before, Cambodia is not the French-run outfit offering trips for Japanese cars are easy to ideal place to start, but once throughout Cambodia, including come by, but if you are driv- out of the city it does get the Cardamoms. ing something obscure, bring easier. If you’re jumping in at For more on dirt biking in substantial spares. the deep end, make sure you Cambodia, see the Outdoor are under the supervision of Adventures chapter (p28). Hire someone who knows how to ride. Insurance CAR Car hire is generally only Motorcycles are available If you are travelling in a tour- available with a driver and is for hire in Phnom Penh and ist vehicle with a driver, then most useful for sightseeing other provincial capitals. In the car is usually insured. around Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (and at times in When it comes to motor- Angkor. Some tourists with a Sihanoukville), motorcycle cycles, many rental bikes are healthy budget also arrange rental is forbidden. It is usu- not insured and you will have cars or 4WDs with drivers ally possible to rent a 100cc to sign a contract agreeing to for touring the provinces. motorcycle for between a valuation for the bike if it is Hiring a car with a driver US$5 and US$10 per day; stolen. Make sure you have a is about US$30 to US$35 costs are around US$10 to strong lock and always leave for a day in and around US$25 for a 250cc dirt bike. the bike in guarded parking Cambodia’s towns. Heading where available. into the provinces it rises to Cambodia Expeditions US$50 or more, plus petrol, (www.cambodiaexpeditions. Do not even consider depending on the destina- com) This team has been hiring a motorcycle if you tion. Hiring 4WDs will cost running motorbike tours and are daft enough to be trav- around US$60 to US$120 a rallies in Cambodia since 1998. elling in Cambodia without day, depending on the model Very professional with some medical insurance. The cost and the distance travelled. great routes in the north of the of treating serious injuries, Driving yourself is just about country. especially if you require an possible, but this is inadvisa- Dancing Roads (www. evacuation, is bankrupting ble due to chaotic road con- dancingroads.com) Offers for budget travellers. ditions and personal liability motorbike tours around the in the case of an accident. capital and gentle tours further Road Conditions & afield to the South Coast. Based Hazards MOTORCYCLE in Phnom Penh, the driver-guides It is possible to explore Cam- are fun and friendly. Whether travelling or living bodia by motorbike, but only Hidden Cambodia (www. in Cambodia, it is easy to lull experienced off-road bikers hiddencambodia.com) A Siem yourself into a false sense should take to these roads Reap–based company specialis- of security and assume that with a dirt bike. Novice riders ing in motorcycle trips through- down every rural road is yet should stick to riding smaller out the country, including the another friendly village. How- semi-automatic mopeds. remote temples of northern ever, even with the demise Anyone planning a longer Cambodia and beyond. of the Khmer Rouge, odd ride should try out the bike incidents of banditry and around Phnom Penh for a robbery do occur in rural day or so first to make sure it is in good health. ROAD SAFETY Cambodia has some of Many more people are now killed and injured each the best roads (read worst month in traffic accidents than by land mines. While this roads) in the world for dirt is partly down to land mine awareness efforts and ongo- biking, particularly in the ing clearance programs, it is also due to a huge increase provinces of Preah Vihear, in the number of vehicles on the roads and drivers trav- Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri and elling at dangerous speeds. Be extremely vigilant when the Cardamom Mountains. travelling under your own steam and take care crossing There are several specialised the roads on the high-speed national highways. It’s best dirt-bike touring companies not to travel on the roads at night due to a higher prev- in Cambodia. alence of accidents at this time. This especially applies to bikers, as several foreigners are killed each year in Drive with due care and motorbike accidents. attention, as medical facil- ities and ambulances are less than adequate beyond

364 Tr a nsp o rt L o cal T ransp o rt In Cambodia traffic drives to bargain the fare if taking a areas. There have also been on the right. There are some cyclo from outside an expen- some nasty bike-jackings in traffic lights at junctions in sive hotel or popular restau- Sihanoukville. When travel- Phnom Penh, Siem Reap rant or bar. Fares range from ling in your own vehicle, and and Sihanoukville, but where US$1 to US$3. There are few particularly by motorcycle there are no lights, most cyclos in the provinces, and in rural areas, make certain traffic turns left into the in Phnom Penh the cyclo has you check the latest security oncoming traffic, edging almost been driven to extinc- information in communities along the wrong side of the tion by the moto. along the way. road until a gap becomes Be particularly careful apparent. For the uninitiated Moto about children on the road – it looks like a disaster waiting you’ll sometimes find kids to happen, but Cambodians Motos, also known as hanging out in the middle of are quite used to the system. motodups (meaning moto a major highway. Livestock Foreigners should stop at driver), are small motor- on the road is also a menace; crossings and develop a hab- cycle taxis. They are a quick hit a cow and you’ll both be it of constant vigilance. Never way of making short hops pizza. assume that other drivers around towns and cities. Other general security will stop at red lights; these Prices range from 2000r to suggestions for those travel- are considered optional by US$1.50 or more, depend- ling by motorcycle: most Cambodians, especially ing on the distance and the ¨¨Try to get hold of a good- at night. town; expect to pay more quality helmet for long at night. In the past it was journeys or high-speed Phnom Penh is the one rare for prices to be agreed riding. place where, amid all the in advance, but with the ¨¨Carry a basic repair kit, chaos, traffic police take increase in visitor numbers, including some tyre levers, issue with Westerners break- a lot of drivers have got into a puncture-repair kit and a ing even the most trivial road the habit of overcharging. It’s pump. rules. Make sure you don’t probably best to negotiate up ¨¨Always carry a rope for turn left at a ‘no left turn’ sign front, particularly in the ma- towing on longer journeys in or travel with your headlights jor tourist centres, outside case you break down. on during the day (although, fancy hotels or at night. ¨¨In remote areas always strangely, it doesn’t seem to carry several litres of water, be illegal for Cambodians to Outboards as you never know when you travel without headlights at will run out. night). Laws requiring that Outboards (pronounced ‘out- ¨¨Travel in small groups, bikes have mirrors and that boor’) are the equivalent of not alone, and stay close drivers (not passengers, even Venice’s vaporetto, a sort of together. children) wear helmets, are local river-bus or taxi. Found ¨¨Don’t be cheap with the being enforced around the all over the country, they are petrol, as running out of country by traffic police ea- small fibreglass boats with fuel in a rural area could ger to levy fines. Foreigners 15HP or 40HP engines, and jeopardise your health, are popular targets. can carry up to six people especially if water runs out for local or longer trips. They too. Local Transport rarely run to schedules, but ¨¨Do not smoke marijuana or locals wait patiently for them drink alcohol and drive. Bus to fill up or you can charter ¨¨Keep your eyes firmly fixed the whole boat and take off. on the road; Cambodian There are currently almost Another variation are the potholes eat people for fun. no local bus networks in Cambodia. Phnom Penh now THE MOTO BURN Road Rules has a few local bus routes that are proving popular with Be careful not to put If there are road rules in local students, but are not your leg near the ex- Cambodia it is doubtful that yet widely used by visitors. haust pipe of a moto anyone is following them. (motorcycle taxi) after Size matters and the biggest Cyclo long journeys; many vehicle wins by default. The travellers have received best advice if you drive a car As in Vietnam and Laos, the nasty burns, which can or ride a motorcycle in Cam- cyclo (pedicab) is a cheap take a long time to heal bodia is to take nothing for way to get around urban in the sticky weather, granted. areas. In Phnom Penh cyclo and often require antibi- drivers can either be flagged otics to recover. down on main roads or found waiting around markets and major hotels. It is necessary

365 international longtail rocket REMORK VERSUS TUK TUK Tr a nsp o rt S hare Taxis boats that connect small villages on the upper stretch- So just what are those motorbikes with the cute little es of the Mekong. Rocket is carriages pulled behind? Remork-motos? Remorks? Tuk the definitive word and their tuks? The debate rumbles on. Officially, Cambodians safety is questionable. call them remork-motos, which is often shortened to remork. In Thailand, the high-octane three-wheeled taxis Remork-Moto in Bangkok are known as tuk tuks, and this moniker has hopped across the border into common usage in The remork-moto (tuk tuk) Cambodia. However, some Cambodians take offence at is a large trailer hitched to the use of the name tuk tuk, so for the time being we are a motorcycle and pretty opting for remork. Remorkable. much operates as a low-tech local bus with oh-so-natural Taxi Train air-conditioning. They are used throughout rural Cam- Taxi hire in towns and cities Cambodia’s rail system is, bodia to transport people is getting easier, but there like the old road network, and goods, and are often are still very few metered one of the most notorious in seen on the edge of towns taxis, with just a handful of Asia. There are currently no ready to ferry farmers back operators in Phnom Penh. passenger services, but this to the countryside. Guesthouses, hotels and may change as the railway travel agents can arrange continues to be rehabilitated Most popular tourist des- cars for sightseeing in and by a private company. Even- tinations, including Phnom around towns. tually, the Cambodian net- Penh, Siem Reap and the work will be plugged into the South Coast, have their very Share Taxis Trans-Asian Railway, which own tourist versions of the will link Singapore and China, remork, with a canopied In these days of improving but connecting Phnom Penh trailer hitched to the back of roads, share taxis are losing with Ho Chi Minh City via a the motorbike for two people ground to ‘express minibus- Mekong bridge will take a few in comfort or as many as you es’. When using share taxis, years yet. can pile on at night. Often it is an advantage to travel referred to as tuk tuks by in numbers, as you can buy The rail network con- foreigners travelling in Cam- spare seats to make the sists of about 645km of bodia, they’re a great way to journey more comfortable. ­single-track metre-gauge explore temples, as you get Double the price for the lines. The 385km north- the breeze of the bike but front seat and quadruple it western line, built before some protection from the for the entire back row. It WWII, links Phnom Penh with elements. is important to remember Pursat and Battambang. that there aren’t necessarily The 254km southwestern Rotei Ses fixed prices on every route, line, which was completed so you have to negotiate. For in 1969, connects Phnom Rotei means ‘cart’ or ‘car- major destinations they can Penh with Takeo, Kampot and riage’ and ses is ‘horse’, but be hired individually, or you Sihanoukville. The prettiest the term is used for any cart can pay for a seat and wait sections of the network pulled by an animal. Cambo- for other passengers to turn are between Takeo and dia’s original 4WD, ox carts, up. Guesthouses are also Kampot and from there to usually pulled by water buf- very helpful when it comes to S­ ihanoukville. falo or cows, are a common arranging share taxis – at a form of transport in remote price, of course. parts of the country, as only they can get through thick mud in the height of the wet season. Some local community-tourism initia- tives now include cart rides.

366 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Health General health is more of a While the potential dan- Vaccinations concern in Cambodia than gers can seem quite fright- most other parts of South- ening, in reality few travellers Plan ahead for getting your east Asia, due to a lack of experience anything more vaccinations; some of them effective medical-treatment than an upset stomach. Don’t require more than one injec- facilities, a prevalence of let these warnings make you tion over a period of time, tropical diseases and poor paranoid. while others should not be sanitation. Once you venture given together. into rural areas you are very BEFORE YOU GO much on your own, although Record all vaccinations on most towns have a reasona- Insurance an International Certificate ble clinic these days. of Vaccination, available from Do not visit Cambodia your doctor. It is a good idea If you feel particularly un- without medical insurance. to carry this as proof of your well, try to see a doctor rath- Hospitals are extremely basic vaccinations when travelling er than visit a hospital; hos- in the provinces and even in in Cambodia. pitals in rural areas are pretty Phnom Penh the facilities primitive and diagnosis can are generally not up to inter- Medical Checklist be hit and miss. If you fall national standards. Anyone seriously ill in Cambodia you who has a serious injury or Following is a list of items to should head to Phnom Penh illness while in Cambodia consider including in your or Siem Reap, as these are may require emergency medical kit – consult your the only places in the coun- evacuation to Bangkok. With pharmacist for brands availa- try with decent emergency an insurance policy costing ble in your country. treatment. Pharmacies in the no more than the equivalent ††aspirin or paracetamol – larger towns are remarkably of a bottle of beer a day, this for pain or fever well stocked and you don’t evacuation is free. Without an ††antihistamine – for need a prescription to get insurance policy, it will cost allergies, or to ease the itch your hands on anything from between US$10,000 and from insect bites or stings antibiotics to antimalarials. US$20,000. Don’t gamble ††cold and flu tablets, Prices are also very reason- with your health in Cambodia throat lozenges and nasal able, but do check the expiry or you may end up another decongestant date, as some medicine may statistic. ††multivitamins – especially have been on the shelves for for long trips, when dietary quite a long time. vitamin intake may be inadequate EVERYDAY HEALTH ††loperamide or diphenoxylate – ‘blockers’ for Normal body temperature is up to 37°C (98.6°F); more diarrhoea than 2°C (4°F) higher indicates a high fever. The normal ††rehydration mixture – to adult pulse rate is 60 to 100 beats per minute (children prevent dehydration, which 80 to 100, babies 100 to 140). As a general rule, the may occur during bouts of pulse increases about 20 beats per minute for each 1°C diarrhoea (2°F) rise in fever.

367 RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS mosquito, which transmits Health Avail abilit y & Cost of He alth Care the dengue virus, is most Recommended vaccinations for a trip to Cambodia are active during the day and is listed here, but it is imperative that you discuss your found mainly in urban areas. needs with your doctor. Signs and symptoms Diphtheria and tetanus Vaccinations for these two of dengue fever include a diseases are usually combined. sudden onset of high fever, headache, joint and muscle Hepatitis A This vaccine provides long-term immu- pains (hence its old name, nity after an initial injection and a booster at six to 12 ‘breakbone fever’), plus months. The hepatitis A vaccine is also available in a nausea and vomiting. A rash combined form with the hepatitis B vaccine – three of small red spots appears injections over a six-month period are required. three to four days after the onset of fever. Hepatitis B Vaccination involves three injections, with a booster at 12 months. Seek medical attention if you think you may be infect- Polio A booster every 10 years maintains immunity. ed. A blood test can diagnose infection, but there is no Tuberculosis Vaccination against TB (BCG vaccine) is specific treatment for the recommended for children and young adults who will be disease. Aspirin should be living in Cambodia for three months or more. avoided, as it increases the risk of haemorrhaging, but Typhoid Vaccination against typhoid may be required plenty of rest is advised. if you are travelling for more than a couple of weeks in Cambodia. There is no vaccine against dengue fever. The best prevention is to avoid mosquito bites at all times. ††insect repellent, sunscreen, Antibiotics should ideally Fungal Infections lip balm and eye drops be administered only under ††calamine lotion or aloe medical supervision. Take Fungal infections occur more vera – to ease irritation from only the recommended dose commonly in hot weather sunburn at the prescribed intervals and are usually on the scalp, ††antifungal cream or and use the whole course, between the toes (athlete’s powder – for fungal skin even if the illness seems foot) or fingers, in the groin infections and thrush to be cured earlier. Stop and on the body (ringworm). ††antiseptic (such as immediately if there are any Ringworm, a fungal infection, povidone-iodine) – for cuts serious reactions. not a worm, is contracted and grazes from infected animals or ††bandages, plasters and The best clinics and hos- other people. Moisture en- other wound dressings pitals in Cambodia are found courages these infections. ††water-purification tablets in Phnom Penh and Siem or iodine Reap. A consultation usually To prevent fungal infec- ††sterile kit (sealed medical costs in the region of US$20 tions wear loose, comfortable kit containing syringes to US$50, plus medicine. clothes, avoid artificial fibres, and needles) – highly Elsewhere, facilities are more wash frequently and dry recommended, as Cambodia basic, although a private yourself carefully. has potential medical- clinic is usually preferable to hygiene issues a government hospital. For Hepatitis serious injuries, seek treat- IN CAMBODIA ment in Bangkok. Hepatitis is a general term for inflammation of the liver. Availability & Infectious Several different viruses Cost of Health Diseases cause hepatitis, and they Care differ in the way that they are Dengue transmitted. The symptoms Self-diagnosis and treatment are similar in all forms of the of health problems can be This viral disease is transmit- illness, and include fever, risky: always seek profes- ted by mosquitoes. There is chills, headache, fatigue, feel- sional medical help. only a small risk to travellers, ings of weakness, and aches except during epidemics, and pains, followed by loss which usually occur during of appetite, nausea, vom- and just after the wet season. iting, abdominal pain, dark urine, light-coloured faeces, Unlike the malaria mos- jaundiced (yellow) skin and quito, the Aedes aegypti yellowing of the whites of the eyes.

368 Health Environmental Ha z ards become infected. There is no diarrhoea, but a few rushed Hepatitis A and E are both malaria in Phnom Penh, Siem toilet trips with no other Reap and most other major symptoms are not indicative transmitted by ingesting urban areas in Cambodia, of a major problem. Almost contaminated food or water. so visitors on short trips to everyone gets a mild bout of Seek medical advice, but the most popular places do the runs on a longer visit to there is not much you can do not need to take medication. Cambodia. apart from resting, drinking Malaria self-test kits are lots of fluids, eating lightly widely available in Cambodia, Dehydration is the main and avoiding fatty foods. but are not that reliable. danger with diarrhoea, par- ticularly in children or the There are almost 300 Symptoms of malaria in- elderly as it can occur quite million chronic carriers of clude fever, chills and sweat- quickly. Under all circum- hepatitis B in the world. It is ing, headache, aching joints, stances fluid replacement spread through contact with diarrhoea and stomach is the most important thing infected blood, blood prod- pains, usually preceded by to remember. Stick to a ucts or body fluids; for exam- a vague feeling of ill health. bland diet as you recover. ple, through sexual contact, Seek medical help immedi- Commercially available oral unsterilized needles, blood ately if malaria is suspected, rehydration salts are very transfusions or contact with as, without treatment, the useful; add them to boiled or blood via small breaks in the disease can rapidly become bottled water. skin. Hepatitis C and D are more serious or even fatal. spread in the same way as Gut-paralysing drugs such hepatitis B and can also lead Sexually Transmitted as Lomotil or Imodium can to long-term complications. Infections (STIs) be used to bring relief from the symptoms of diarrhoea, HIV/AIDS Gonorrhoea, herpes and although they do not actually syphilis are among these cure the problem. Only use Infection with the human infections. Sores, blisters these drugs if you do not immunodeficiency virus or a rash around the geni- have access to toilets and (HIV) may lead to acquired tals and discharges or pain must travel. immune deficiency syn- when urinating are common drome (AIDS), which is a symptoms. With some STIs, Environmental fatal disease. Any exposure such as wart virus or chla- Hazards to blood, blood products or mydia, symptoms may be body fluids may put the indi- less marked or not observed Food vidual at risk. at all, especially in women. Reliable condoms are widely There is an adage that says, The disease is often available throughout urban ‘If you can cook it, boil it or transmitted through sexual areas of Cambodia. peel it you can eat it…other- contact or dirty needles, so wise forget it’. This is slightly vaccinations, acupuncture, Typhoid extreme, but many travellers tattooing and body piercing have found it is better to be can be potentially as danger- Typhoid fever is a dangerous safe than sorry. Vegetables ous as intravenous drug use. gut infection caused by con- and fruit should be washed taminated water and food. with purified water or peeled Intestinal Worms Medical help must be sought. where possible. Beware of ice cream that is sold in the These parasites are most In its initial stages suffer- street (or anywhere), as common in rural Cambodia. ers may feel they have a bad it might have melted and The various worms have dif- cold or flu on the way, as ear- refrozen. Shellfish such as ferent ways of infecting peo- ly symptoms are a headache, mussels, oysters and clams ple. Some may be ingested body aches and a fever that should be avoided, as should in food such as undercooked rises a little each day until undercooked meat, particu- meat (eg tapeworms) and it is around 40°C (104°F) or larly in the form of mince. some enter through your skin higher. There may also be (eg hookworms). Consider vomiting, abdominal pain, Heat Exhaustion having a stool test when you diarrhoea or constipation. return home to check for Dehydration and salt de- worms and to determine the In the second week, the ficiency can cause heat appropriate treatment. high fever continues and a exhaustion. Take time to few pink spots may appear acclimatise to high tempera- Malaria on the body; trembling, de- tures, drink sufficient liquids lirium, weakness, weight loss and do not do anything too This serious and potential- and dehydration may occur. physically demanding. ly fatal disease is spread by mosquitoes. If you are Traveller’s Diarrhoea Salt deficiency is charac- travelling in endemic areas terised by fatigue, lethargy, it is extremely important to Simple things like a change headaches, giddiness and avoid mosquito bites and to of water, food or climate take tablets to prevent the can all cause a mild bout of disease developing if you

369 CONTACT LENSES themselves at home in your Snakes Health Tr aditional Medicine hair (head lice), your clothing People wearing contact (body lice) or in your pubic To minimise the chances lenses should be aware hair (crabs). You catch lice of being bitten by a snake, that Cambodia is an through direct contact with always wear boots, socks and extremely dusty coun- infected people or by sharing long trousers when walking try and this can cause combs, clothing and the through undergrowth where much irritation when like. Powder or shampoo snakes may be present. travelling. It is gener- treatment will kill the lice, ally bearable in cars, and infected clothing should Water but when travelling by be washed in very hot, soapy motorcycle or pick-up, water and left to dry in the The number-one rule is be it is most definitely not. sun. careful of water and ice, Pack a pair of glasses. although both are usually Leeches may be present in factory produced, a legacy of muscle cramps; salt tablets damp rainforest conditions; the French. If you don’t know may help, but adding extra they attach themselves to for certain that the water salt to your food is better. your skin to suck your blood. is safe, assume the worst. Trekkers often get them on Reputable brands of bottled Heatstroke can occur if their legs or in their boots. water or soft drinks are usu- the body’s heat-regulating Salt or a lighted cigarette end ally fine, but you can’t safely mechanism breaks down, will make them fall off. drink tap water. Only use causing the body temper- water from containers with a ature to rise to dangerous Sandflies inhabit beaches serrated seal. Tea and coffee levels. Long, continuous (usually the more remote are generally fine, as they’re periods of exposure to high ones) across southeast Asia. made with boiled water. temperatures and insuffi- They have a nasty bite that cient fluids can leave you is extremely itchy and can Traditional vulnerable to heatstroke. easily become infected. Use Medicine an antihistamine to quell Insect Bites & Stings the itching, and, if you have Traditional medicine or to itch, use the palm of your thnam boran is very popular Bedbugs live in various plac- hand and not your nails or in rural Cambodia. There are es, but particularly in dirty infection may follow. kru Khmer (traditional medi- mattresses and bedding, cine men) in most districts of and are evidenced by spots Prickly Heat the country and some locals of blood on bedclothes or on trust them more than mod- the wall. Bedbugs leave itchy Prickly heat is an itchy rash ern doctors and hospitals. bites in neat rows. Calamine caused by excessive per- Working with tree bark, roots, lotion or Stingose spray may spiration trapped under the herbs and plants, they boil up help. skin. It usually strikes people brews to supposedly cure all who have just arrived in a hot ills. However, when it comes All lice cause itching and climate. Keeping cool, bath- to serious conditions like discomfort. They make ing often, drying the skin, snake bites, their treatments using a mild talcum or prickly can be counterproductive. heat powder, or finding air-conditioning may help.

370 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language The Khmer language is spoken by approx- (delicious). Also note that k is pronounced imately nine million people in Cambodia, as the ‘g’ in ‘go’; kh as the ‘k’ in ‘kind’; p as and is understood by many in neighbouring the final ‘p’ in ‘puppy’; ph as the ‘p’ in ‘pond’; countries. Although Khmer as spoken in r as in ‘rum’ (hard and rolling); t as the ‘t’ in Phnom Penh is generally intelligible to ‘stand’; and th as the ‘t’ in ‘two’. Khmers nationwide, there are several dis- tinct dialects in other parts of the country. Vowels and vowel combinations with an Most notably, inhabitants of Takeo Province h at the end are pronounced with a puff of tend to modify or slur hard consonant/ air at the end. Vowels are pronounced as vowel combinations, especially those with follows: ‘r’. For example, bram (five) becomes pe-am, sraa (alcohol) becomes se-aa, and baraang a and ah shorter and harder than aa (French for foreigner) becomes be-ang. In aa as the ‘a’ in ‘father’ Siem Reap there’s a Lao-sounding lilt to the ae as the ‘a’ in ‘cat’ local speech – some vowels are modified, eg ai as in ‘aisle’ poan (thousand) becomes peuan, and kh’sia am as the ‘um’ in ‘glum’ (pipe) becomes kh’seua. av like a nasal ao (without the‘v’) aw as the ‘aw’ in ‘jaw’ Though English is fast becoming Cam- awh as the ‘aw’ in ‘jaw’ (short and hard) bodia’s second language, the Khmer pop- ay as ai (slightly nasal) ulation still clings to the Francophone pro- e as in ‘they’ nunciation of the Roman alphabet and most eh as the ‘a’ in ‘date’ (short and hard) foreign words. This is helpful to remember eu like ‘oo’ (with flat lips) when spelling Western words and names euh as eu (short and hard) aloud – ‘ay-bee-see’ becomes ‘ah-bey-sey’ euv like a nasal eu (without the ‘v’) and so on. ey as in ‘prey’ i as in ‘kit’ The pronunciation guides in this chapter ia as the ‘ee’ in ‘beer’ (without the ‘r’) are designed for basic communication rath- ih as the ‘ee’ in ‘teeth’ (short and hard) er than linguistic perfection. Read them as ii as the ‘ee’ in ‘feet’ if they were English, and you shouldn’t have o as the ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ problems being understood. Some conso- œ as ‘er’ in ‘her’ (more open) nant combinations are separated with an oh as the ‘o’ in ‘hose’ (short and hard) apostrophe for ease of pronunci­ation, ohm as the ‘ome’ in ‘home’ eg ‘j-r’ in j’rook (pig) and ‘ch-ng’ in ch’ngain ow as in ‘glow’ u as the ‘u’ in ‘flute’ (short and hard) WANT MORE? ua as the ‘ou’ in ‘tour’ For in-depth language information and uah as ua (short and hard) handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan- uh as the ‘u’ in ‘but’ et’s Southeast Asia Phrasebook. You’ll find it uu as the ‘oo’ in ‘zoo’ at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

371 BASICS ACCOMMODATION The Khmer language reflects the social Where’s a hotel? ohtail neuv ai naa standing of the speaker and the subject អូតែលនៅឯណា? through personal pronouns and ‘politeness words’. These range from the simple baat for I’d like a ខញសុំ្ ំុបនទប្ ់... kh’nyohm sohm  LANGUAGE BASICS men and jaa for women, placed at the end of bantohp … a sentence and meaning ‘yes’ or ‘I agree’, to room … the very formal and archaic Reachasahp or ‘royal language’, a separate vocabulary re- for one សម្រាប ់ samruhp served for addressing the king and very high officials. Many of the pronouns are deter- person មយួ នាក ់ muy niak mined on the basis of the subject’s age and gender in relation to the speaker. for two សម្រាប់ samruhp Foreigners are not expected to know all of people ពីរនាក់ pii niak these forms. The easiest and most general personal pronoun is niak (you), which may with a ដែលមាន dail mian be used in most situations, for either gender. bathroom បនប្ទ ទ់ កឹ bantohp tuhk Men of your age or older can be called lowk (Mister). Women of your age or older can be with a fan ដែលមាន dail mian called bawng srei (older sister) or, for more កង្ហា រ kawnghahl formal situations, lowk srei (Madam). Bawng is an informal, neutral pronoun for men or with a ដែលមាន dail mian women who are (or appear to be) older than window បង្អួច bawng uoch you. For the third person (he/she/they), male or female, singular or plural, the respectful How much is it per day? form is koat and the common form is ke. damlay muy th’ngay តម្លៃមយួ ថ្ង ៃ Hello. ជម្រាបសួរ johm riab sua បន៉ុ ្មា ន? ponmaan Goodbye. លាសនិ ហ�ើយ lia suhn hao-y Excuse me./ សូមទោស sohm toh DIRECTIONS Sorry. Please. សមូ sohm Where is a/the ...? ... neuv ai naa Thank you. អរគណុ aw kohn ...នៅឯណា? You’re អត់អទី េ/ awt ei te/ welcome. សូមអញ្ជ ើញ sohm onh-jernh How can I get to …? phleuv naa teuv … Yes. បាទ/ចាស baat/jaa (m/f) ផវល្ូ ណាទៅ...? teuv trawng No. ទេ te Go straight ahead. ទៅត្រង់ How are you? Turn left. bawt ch’weng អកន្ សខុ សប្បាយទេ? niak sohk sabaay te បតឆ់ ្ងេវ bawt s’dam neuv kait j’rohng I’m fine. kh’nyohm sohk sabaay Turn right. neuv khaang krao-y ខញ្ំសុ ុខសប្បាយ បត់ស្ាដ ំ What’s your name? at the corner នៅកាច់ជ្ុងរ អន្កឈ្ម ោះអ?ី niak ch’muah ei behind My name is … នៅខាងក្រោយ ខញ្ឈំុ ្ម ោះ... kh’nyohm ch’muah … in front of neuv khaang mohk នៅខាងមខុ Does anyone speak English? next to ទនី េះមានអក្ន ចេះ tii nih mian niak jeh នៅជាប់ neuv joab neuv tohl mohk ភាសាអង់គ្សេល ទេ? phiasaa awngle te opposite នៅទលម់ ុខ I don’t understand. ខញ្មំុ និ យលទ់ េ/ kh’nyohm muhn yuhl te/ ខញ្ុំស្ដា ប់មនិ បាន kh’nyohm s’dap muhn baan te

372 orange ក្រចូ ពោធិស៍ ាត់ kroch pow saat papaya លុ្ហង l’howng EATING & DRINKING pineapple ម្នា ស់ menoa pomelo ក្រចូ ថ្លុង kroch th’lohng Where’s a …? ...នៅឯណា? … neuv ai naa rambutan សាវម៉ាវ sao mao starfruit សពឺ ្ speu food stall កន្លែងលក់ kuhnlaing loak vegetables បន្លែ buhn lai មូហ្ប m’howp watermelon ឪឡកឹ euv luhk  L A N G UAG E F r u i t & V e g e tab l e s market ផ្សារ psar restaurant ភោជនយី ដ្ឋា ន resturawn Do you have a menu in English? មានម៉នឺ ុយជា mien menui jea ភាសាអងគ់ ្លសេ ទេ? piasaa awnglay te What’s the speciality here? Meat & Fish ទនី េះមានម្ហូប tii nih mien m’howp beef សាច់គោ sach kow chicken សាច់មាន់ sach moan អពី ិសេសទេ? ei piseh te crab ក្ដា ម k’daam eel អន្ទង ់ ahntohng I’m vegetarian. kh’nyohm tawm sait fish ត្រី trey ខញុំត្ មសាច ់ frog កង្កបែ kawng kaip lobster បងងក្ bawng kawng I’m allergic to (peanuts). pork សាច់ជ្រកូ sach j’ruuk shrimp បង្ាគ bawngkia កំុ ដាក់ (សណ្ដែ កដី) kohm dak (sandaik dei) snail ខ្យង kh’jawng squid ម៉ឹក meuk Not too spicy, please. សមូ កំុ ធ្វើហរឹ ពេក sohm kohm twœ huhl pek This is delicious. nih ch’ngain nah អានេះឆ្ាង ញណ់ ាស់ The bill, please. sohm kuht lui សមូ គិតលុយ Fruit & Vegetables Other apple ផ្លែប៉ោម phla i powm bread butter banana ចេក chek chilli នំបង៉័ nohm paang curry coconut ដងូ duong fish sauce ប៊រឺ bœ fried custard apple ទ�ៀប tiep garlic ម្ទេស m’teh ginger dragonfruit ផ្លែស្រកានាគ phlai srakaa neak grilled ការ ី karii ice durian ធូរេន tourain lemongrass ទកឹ ត្រី teuk trey noodles grapes ទំពាងំ បាយជរូ tompeang baai juu (egg/rice) ច�ៀន/ឆា jien/chaa pepper guava ត្របែក trawbaik ខមឹទ្ ស kh’tuhm saw jackfruit ខរ្ុន khnau ខ ្ីញ kh’nyei lemon ក្ូចរ ឆ្ាម រ krow-it ch’maa អាងំ ahng longan ម�ៀន mien ទកឹ កក teuk koh lychee ផ្លែគលូ េន phlai kuulain សលឹក្ គ្រៃ sluhk krey mandarin ក្ចូរ ខ្វិច krow-it khwait ម/ី គុយទាវ mii/kyteow mango ស្វា យ svay mangosteen មង្ឃុត mongkut ម្រេច m’rait

373 rice បាយ bai What time does it open? uhmbuhl វាប�ើកម៉ោងបនុ៉ ្មា ន? wia baok maong pohnmaan salt អបំ លិ sup teuk sii iw soup សុប៊ naim/chaa yaw What time does it close? soy sauce ទឹកស៊អី វី៊ jamhoi វាបិទម៉ោងប៉ុន្មា ន? wia buht maong pohnmaan skaw spring rolls ណែម/ឆាយ៉ I’m looking ខញុរ្ំ ក… kh’nyohm  LANGUAGE DRINKS for the ... rohk ... (fresh/fried) steamed ចំហយុ bank ធនាគារ th’niakia sugar សរ្ក post office ប្រៃសណី យ ៍ praisuhnii public ទូរស័ពទ្ turasahp Drinks telephone សាធារណៈ saathiaranah beer ប៊ីយ៉ែរ bii-yœ temple វត្ត wawt coffee lemon juice កាហ្វេ kaa fey ទកឹ ក្ចូរ teuk kroch How much is it? nih th’lay pohnmaan orange juice នេះថ្បលៃ ុន៉ ្មា ន? ឆ្មា រ ch’maa tea ទឹកក្ចូរ teuk kroch That’s too much. th’lay pek water ពោធស៍ិ ាត់ pow sat ថ្លៃពេក តែ tai No more than … muhn lœh pii … មនិ ល�សើ ពី... ទកឹ teuk What’s your best price? EMERGENCIES អកន្ ដាច់ប៉ុន្មា ន? niak dach pohnmaan I want to change US dollars. Help! juay kh’nyohm phawng ខញំ្ចុ ង់ដូរ kh’nyohm jawng dow ជយួ ខញុ្ំផង! juay hav police mok ដុល្លា រអាម៉េរកិ dolaa amerik Call the police! ជួយហៅបល៉ូ សិ មក! What is the exchange rate for US dollars? មួយដុល្លា រ muy dolaa Call a doctor! ដរូ បានបុ៉ន្មា ន? dow baan pohnmaan ជយួ ហៅ គ្ូពរ េទ្យមក! juay hav TIME & DATES kruu paet mok What time is it? I’ve been robbed. kh’nyohm treuv jao plawn ឥឡវូ នេះម៉ោងប៉នុ ្មា ន? eileuv nih maong pohnmaan ខញតំុ្ ្រូវចោរប្លន ់ I’m ill. kh’nyohm cheu in the morning ពេលព្រឹក pel pruhk ខញ្ំឈុ ឺ pel r’sial I’m allergic to (antibiotics). in the ពេលរស�ៀល pel l’ngiach afternoon pel yohp ខញ្ុំមនិ ត្រវូ ធាត ុ kh’nyohm muhn treuv thiat (អងទ់ ីបយ៊ី ទូ កិ ) (awntiibiowtik) in the evening ពេលល្ងាច Where are the toilets? at night ពេលយប់ បងគ្ន់នៅឯណា? bawngkohn neuv ai naa SHOPPING & SERVICES yesterday ម្សលិ មញិ m’suhl mein today ថ្ងៃនេះ th’ngay nih I want to see the … tomorrow ថ្ងៃស្អែក th’ngay s’aik ខញំុច្ ងទ់ ៅម�លើ ... kh’nyohm jawng teuv mœl …

L A N G UAG E TR A N S P O RT374 ថ្ចងៃ ន ទ្ th’ngay jahn Numbers Monday ថ្អៃង ង្ាគ រ th’ngay ahngkia Khmers count in increments of five – Tuesday ថ្ពងៃ ធុ th’ngay poht after reaching the number five (bram), Wednesday ថ្ងៃព្រហស្បត ៍ិ th’ngay prohoah the cycle begins again with the addition Thursday ថ្សៃង កុ ្រ th’ngay sohk of one, ie ‘five-one’ (bram muy), ‘five- Friday ថ្សងៃ ៅរ ៍ th’ngay sav two’ (bram pii) and so on to 10, which Saturday ថ្អៃង ាទិត្យ th’ngay aatuht begins a new cycle. For example, 18 has Sunday three parts: 10, five and three. TRANSPORT There’s also a colloquial form of counting that reverses the word order Where’s ...នៅឯណា? … neuv ai naa for numbers between 10 and 20 and separates the two words with duhn: pii the …? duhn dawp for 12, bei duhn dawp for 13 and so on. This form is often used in markets, so listen keenly. airport វាលយន ្ត wial yohn 1 មយួ muy ហោះ hawh 2 ពីរ pii bus stop ចំណត jamnawt 3 ប ី bei ឡានឈលួន្ laan ch’nual 4 បួន buan train station ស្ថា នីយ s’thaanii 5 ប្រាំ bram រថភ្ងើល roht plœng 6 ប្រាំមួយ bram muy 7 ប្រាំពីរ bram pii When does ...ចេញម៉ោង ... jeinh maong 8 ប្រាំប ី bram bei the ... leave? បុន៉ ្មា ន? pohnmaan boat ទូក duk 9 ប្រាំបនួ bram buan bus laan ch’nual train ឡានឈួលន្ roht plœng 10 ដប ់ dawp plane រថភ្លើង yohn hawh យនត្ហោះ 11 ដប់មយួ dawp muy 12 ដប់ពីរ dawp pii 16 ដប់ប្រាំមយួ dawp bram muy 20 ម្ហៃ m’phei What time does the last bus leave? 21 ម្ហៃមួយ m’phei muy ឡានឈួលន្ ចងុ ក្រោយ laan ch’nual johng krao-y 30 សាបសបិ saamsuhp ចេញទៅម៉ោងប៉ុន្មា ន? jein teuv maong pohnmaan 40 សែសបិ saisuhp I want to get off (here). 100 មយួ រយ muy roy ខញចំុ្ ង់ចុះ(ទីនេះ) kh’nyohm jawng joh (tii nih) 1000 មួយពាន ់ muy poan How much is it to …? 1,000,000 មួយលាន muy lian ទៅ...ថ្បលៃ នុ៉ ្មា ន? teuv … th’lay pohnmaan Please take me to (this address). 1st ទមី ួយ tii muy 2nd ទពី ីរ tii pii សូមជូនខញទុំ្ ៅ sohm juun kh’ nyohm teuv 3rd ទបី ី tii bei 4th ទបី នួ tii buan (អាសយដ្ាឋ ននេះ) (aasayathaan nih) 10th ទដី ប ់ tii dawp Here is fine, thank you. ឈប់នៅទីនេះកប៏ ាន chohp neuv tii nih kaw baan

375 GLOSSARY construction program, including for the suffering and deaths of L A N G UAG E GL O S S A R Y the walled city of Angkor Thom millions of Cambodians; previ- apsara – heavenly nymph or Kampuchea – the name Cam- ously known as Saloth Sar angelic dancer, often represented bodians use for their country; in Khmer sculpture to non-Khmers, it is associated prasat – stone or brick hall with Asean – Association of South- with the bloody rule of the religious or royal significance east Asian Nations Khmer Rouge, which insisted Avalokiteshvara – Bodhisattva that the outside world adopt for preah – sacred of Compassion and the inspira- Cambodia the name Democratic psar – market tion for Jayavarman VII’s Angkor Kampuchea from 1975 to 1979 Thom Khmer – a person of Cambo- Ramayana – an epic Sanskrit dian descent; the language of poem composed around 300 BC baray – reservoir Cambodia featuring the mythical Ramach- boeng – lake Khmer Krom – ethnic Khmers andra, the incarnation of the god living in Vietnam Vishnu Chenla – pre-Angkorian period, Khmer Rouge – a revolutionary remork-moto – trailer pulled by 6th to 8th centuries organisation that seized power in a motorcycle; often shortened chunchiet – ethnic minorities 1975 and implemented a brutal to remork CNRP – Cambodia National social restructuring, resulting rom vong – Cambodian circle Rescue Party in the suffering and death of dancing CPP – Cambodian People’s Party millions of Cambodians during cyclo – pedicab; bicycle rickshaw its four-year rule Sangkum Reastr Niyum – krama – scarf People’s Socialist Community; a devaraja – cult of the god-king, national movement, led by King established by Jayavarman II, in linga – phallic symbols Sihanouk, that ruled the country which the monarch has universal during the 1950s and 1960s power Mahayana – literally, ‘Great devadas – goddesses V­ ehicle’; a school of Buddhism Sanskrit – ancient Hindu (also known as the Northern language that, along with Pali, EFEO – École Française School) that built upon and is the root of modern Khmer d’Extrême Orient extended the early Buddhist language essai – wise man or traditional teachings; see also Theravada medicine man moto – small motorcycle with stung – river driver; a common form of trans- Suryavarman II – the king Funan – pre-Angkorian period, port in Cambodia (r 1112–52) responsible for 1st to 5th centuries Mt Meru – the mythical dwelling building Angkor Wat and for Funcinpec – National United of the Hindu god Shiva expanding and unifying the Front for an Independent, Neu- Khmer empire tral, Peaceful and Cooperative naga – mythical serpent, often Cambodia; royalist political party multiheaded; a symbol used Theravada – a school of Bud- extensively in Angkorian dhism (also known as the garuda – mythical half-man, architecture Southern School or Hinayana) half-bird creature nandi – sacred ox, vehicle of found in Myanmar (Burma), gopura – entrance pavilion in Shiva Thailand, Laos and Cambodia; traditional Hindu architecture NGO – nongovernmental this school confined itself to the organisation early Buddhist teachings; see Hun Sen – Cambodia’s prime NH – national highway also Mahayana minister (1985–present) Norodom Ranariddh, Prince – tonlé – large river son of King Sihanouk and former Jayavarman II – the king leader of Funcinpec UNDP – UN Development (r 802–50) who established the Norodom Sihanouk, King – Programme cult of the god-king, kicking off a former king, head of state, film Unesco – UN Educational Scien- period of amazing architectural director and a towering figure in tific and Cultural Organization productivity that resulted in the modern-day Cambodia Untac – UN Transitional Author- extraordinary temples of Angkor ity in Cambodia Jayavarman VII – the king Pali – ancient Indian language (r 1181–1219) who drove the that, along with Sanskrit, is the vihara – temple sanctuary Chams out of Cambodia before root of modern Khmer embarking on an ambitious phnom – mountain or hill WHO – World Health Organization Pol Pot – the former leader of the Khmer Rouge; responsible Year Zero – 1975; the year the Khmer Rouge seized power yoni – female fertility symbol

writerwr ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 376 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Julian and Belle, as without their support and encouragement the adventures would not Many thanks to the travellers who used the be possible. Thanks also to Mum and Dad for last edition and wrote to us with helpful giving me a taste for travel from a young age. hints, useful advice and interesting anec- dotes: Thanks to fellow travellers and residents, A Andrea Rudan, Andrew Pitman, Anna friends and contacts in Cambodia who have Januszewska, Annemiek Lauwerijssen  B Ben helped shaped my knowledge and experience Nye, Bill Weir C Christopher Moyle E Emma in this country. There is no room to thank Leslie F Francesco Licciardi G Georgiena Ryan everyone, but you all know who you are, as we H Heather Delany J James & Kassie Bowen, meet for anything from beers to ecotourism John Voegeli, Jose Stolk, Julia Dorman-Te- conferences regularly enough. jada K Karen Barnett, Katia Parolini L Laura Mattina M Marcel Ponti, Marcelo de Moura, Thanks also to my co-author Jess Lee for Marjolaine & Hanael Sfez, Martijn Wiegman going the distance to ensure this is a worthy P Paul Gruncell R Rebecca Tilbrook, Rochelle new edition. Finally, thanks to the Lonely Planet Roberts S Sal Bolton, Salvatore Travia, Sandra team who have worked on this title. The author Seiger, Sara Derr, Signe Fribo, Simon Joseph, may be the public face, but a huge amount of Sophie Carr, Stefaan Ooms, Steve Scena T work goes into making this a better book be- Tim Bushell W Werner Bruyninx Z Zita Hooke hind the scenes and I thank everyone for their hard work. WRITER THANKS Jessica Lee Nick Ray On the road, huge thanks to fellow author Nick, A huge and heartfelt thanks to the people of Ritthy, Martin, dive supremos Simon and Tom, Cambodia, whose warmth and humour, stoi- Mr Jack, and ‘other Jess’ and Raph, and kudos cism and spirit make it a happy yet humbling to Leap, Arun, Heng and Lim for being some of place to be. Biggest thanks are reserved for the most brilliant motodups I’ve ever had the my lovely wife, Kulikar Sotho, and our children, luck to come across. Back home, a big thanks to the best house sitter in the world, Shannon Wang. Most of all, thank you to the people of Cambodia who always make a journey here a joy.

377 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS BEHIND THE SCENES Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Cover photograph: Apsara dancer, Angkor Wat; Matteo Colombo, Getty Images © Illustrations pp134-5: Michael Weldon. THIS BOOK Product Editors Katie Cover Researcher Naomi O’Connell, Amanda Williamson Parker This 10th edition of Cambodia was researched and written by Senior Cartographers Language Content Nick Ray and Jessica Lee. Nick David Kemp, Diana von Holdt Branislava Vladisavljevic also wrote the previous two Book Designer Wibowo Thanks to Kate Chapman, editions with Greg Bloom. This Rusli Andi Jones, Mao Monkol- guidebook was produced by Assisting Editors Michelle ransey, Karyn Noble, Kirsten the following: Bennett, Peter Cruttenden, Ali Rawlings, Luna Soo, Angela Destination Editor Laura Lemer, Lauren O’Connell Tinson, Maureen Wheeler Crawford

378 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A projects giant ibises 264 Beng Mealea 168-9, 169 ATMs 351 vultures 263, 285 Phnom Sampeau 246 accommodation 295, 348-9, birdwatching 342-3 Prasat Damrei 264 371-5 B Preah Khan 264 Prasat Kuha Nokor 269 Prek Toal Bird Prasat Preah Stung 264 activities 18-19, 28-32, see Bakong 164 Prasat Preah Thkol 265 also individual activities Baksei Chamkrong 156 Sanctuary 126-7 Prasat Preah Vihear 12, Bamboo Train 244 Seima Protected aerobics 260-3, 261, 12 Battambang 239 Ban Lung 286-91, 287 Forest 301-2 Prasat Ta Prohm 254 Phnom Penh 50 Banteay Chhmar 254-5 Siem Pang 285 Preah Khan (Angkor) Pursat 233 Banteay Kdei 159 Stung Chikreng Bengal Banteay Meanchey 160-1, 160 AIDS 368 Florican Conservation Preah Khan (northwest) air travel 358-9, 361 Province 250-5 Area 268 airports 358 Banteay Samré 163 Veal Krous Vulture 263-5 Ang Trapeng Thmor Banteay Srei 165-6, Feeding Station 263 Preah Neak Poan boat cruises 29 Reserve 127 22-3, 153 Chi Phat 182 161-2, 161 Angkor Borei 226-7 Banteay Srei Butterfly Kampot 211 Preah Palilay 154-5 Angkor National Museum 95 Koh Rong 203-4 Silver Pagoda 41-2 Angkor region, see temples Centre 124, 111 Phnom Penh 50 Banteay Srei District Prek Toeuk Sap Sra Srang 159, 153 of Angkor Estuary 200 Ta Nei 158 Angkor Thom 148-56, 149, 124, 126 Ream National Park 200 Ta Prohm 158-9, Baphuon 154 Sihanoukville 188 151, 21, 31, 153 bargaining 351 boat travel 361 159, 17, 152 Baphuon 154 bathrooms 165, 355 bokator, see martial arts Ta Som 162 Bayon 149-54 Battambang 10, Bokheo 292-3 Tep Pranam 155 Kleangs 155-6 Bokor Hill Station 218-19 Thala Boravit 282 Phimeanakas 154 236-46, 238-9, 10 Bon Om Tuk (Water Wat Athvea 99 Prasat Suor Prat 155-6 accommodation 241-2 Festival) 19 Wat Bo 99 Preah Palilay 154-5 courses 241 books 304, 307 Wat Dam Nak 99 Preah Pithu 155 drinking & nightlife 244 Angkor 162, 310 Wat Ek Phnom 247 Royal Enclosure 154 food 242-4 architecture 330 Wat Khaong Kang 249 Tep Pranam 155 shopping 244-5 cooking 340 Wat Kiri Sela 224 Terrace of Elephants 155 sights 236-7 history 317, 318, 320 Wat Leu 185 Terrace of the Leper tourist information 245 Khmer Rouge 315, 319, Wat Moha Montrei 45 tours 240-1 323, 325 Wat Neang Kok 175 King 155 travel to/from 245 Norodom Sihanouk 312 Wat Nokor Bachey 272-3 Angkor Wat 144-8, 144, travel within 246 temples of Angkor 162 Wat Ounalom 45 walking tours 236-7 border crossings 15, 359-60, Wat Phnom 44-5 145, 8-9 Battambang Province 362, 360 Wat Phnom Doh Angkor Wat International 236-48 Laos 284 Thailand 121, 250, 251, Kromom 295 Half Marathon 19 Bayon 149-54, 151, 21, 153 253, 258 Wat Phnom Yat 248 animals, see birds, wildlife, beaches 16, 10 Vietnam 84, 86, 223, 226, Wat Preah Inkosei 99 275, 280, 291 Wat Roka Kandal 278 individual species Kep 220 Botum Sakor National Wat Sampov Pram 219 Anlong Veng 255-8 Koh Rong 203 Park 181 Wat Thmei 99 architecture 330-1 Koh Yor Beach 174-5 Buddhist temples budget 15 area codes 15 Sihanoukville 10, 185-6 Banteay Chhmar 254-5 art galleries, see museums beer gardens 116 Banteay Top 254 Bunong 11, 294-6, 301, 11 begging 83, 120, 345 bus travel 361-2, 364 & galleries Bayon 149-54, 21, 153 business hours 15, 352-3 Artisans Angkor – Les Beng Mealea 168-9, 169 butterflies Bengal florican 268 Chantiers Écoles 95 bicycle trave, see cycling Banteay Srei Butterfly arts 77, 330-5 Centre 124, 111 arts centres, see community birds, 31 see also wildlife Bengal floricans 268 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

379 Kep Butterfly Farm 220 Phnom Penh 55 Province 272-7 fungal infections 367 Siem Reap 101-2 Kratie Province 277-81 C Sihanoukville 188 Mondulkiri G I N D E X C - H courses car travel 360, 362-4 cooking 55, 101-2, 188, Province 294-302 galleries, see museums & Cardamom Mountains 179 Ratanakiri galleries cell phones 14, 354-5 211, 241, 336 cemeteries 294 language 241, 350 Province 285-94 gay travellers 350 Central Cardamoms martial arts 56 Stung Treng geography 341-2 costs 15 giant ibises 264 Protected Forest credit cards 352 Province 281-5 gibbons 90-1, 98, 250-1, 180-1, 235 culture 326-35 travel seasons 270 Chau Say Tevoda 157 currency 14 wildlife 270 286, 293, 301, 302 Chau Srei Vibol 165 customs regulations 349 Eastern Mebon 162 go carting 51 Chaul Chnam Chen cycling 29-30, 361 economy 305 golf 52-3, 99 (Chinese New Year) 18 Battambang 240-1 electricity 349 Chaul Chnam Khmer Chi Phat 182-3 Elephant Valley H (Khmer New Year) 18 Phnom Penh 50 Project 298, 24 Chhlong 281 Siem Reap 102 elephants 90-1, 143, 180, health 366-9 Chi Phat 181-4 temples of Angkor 142-3 181, 276, 298, 301, 24 hepatitis 367-8 children, exploitation 73, 82 cyclo travel 364 embassies 349-50 hiking 30, 32 children, travel with 349 emergencies 15, 373 Phnom Penh 51 D environment 305, 341-6 Ban Lung 288-9 Siem Reap 95 ethnic minorities 291-3, Central Cardamoms Chong Kneas 127-8 dance 333 294, 305, 327-9, 11 Chong Kos 229 dangers 353-4 Bunong 11, 294-6, 301 Protected Forest 180 Chorn-Pond, Arn 77 Khmer Krom 328 Chi Phat 182 chunchiet, see ethnic bag-snatching 82 Kuy 267 Mondulkiri Province 301 minorities drugs 351 Tompuon 286, 288, 291-2 Phnom Aural Wildlife cinema, see films land mines 168, 171, 248, etiquette 327, 332, 340 circuses 117, 242 cemeteries 294 Sanctuary 236 climate 18-19, 29, see also 252, 256, 260, 354 temples 133 Ratanakiri Province 288 individual regions Phnom Penh 81 events 18-19, 353 Ream National Park 200 community projects 64, Siem Reap 120-1 exchange rates 15 temples of Angkor 146 78-9, 108, 118-19, see Sihanoukville 198 Virachey National also responsible road travel 363-4 F tourism Dangrek Mountains 258 Park 293-4 Artisans Angkor – Les dengue 367 farms Hindu temples Chantiers Écoles 95, 98 diarrhoea 368 pepper 215 Bun Rany Hun Sen dirt biking, see motorcycle silk 95, 98, 269 Angkor Thom 148-56, Development travel 149, 151, 21, 31, 153 Centre 233 disabilities, travellers festivals 18-19, 353 Cambolac 98 with 355 film locations Angkor Wat 144-8, 144, ConCERT 103 discount cards 349 145, 8-9 École d’Art et de diving, see water sports City of Ghosts 218 Culture Khmers 252 donating blood 44 Pos Keng Kong 201 Bakong 164 Elephant Valley doucs 301 Tomb Raider 139, 149, Baksei Chamkrong 156 Project 298 drinking 337-9, 372-3, see Banteay Samré 163 Golden Silk 127 also individual locations 158, 167 Banteay Srei 165-6, Jahoo Gibbon Camp 301 driving, see car travel Two Brothers 168 Khmer Ceramics driving licences 362 films 304, 331-2, 343 22-3, 153 Centre 98 drugs 351 Flight of the Gibbon Baphuon 154 Mekong Blue 282 cocaine 351 Angkor 98 Chau Say Tevoda 157 Phare Ponleu Selpak 242 marijuana 350 Chau Srei Vibol 165 temples of Angkor 163 yaba 351 floating villages 24-5 Veun Sai Gibbon Chong Kneas 127-8 Koh Ker 169-71, 170 Ecotours 286 E Chong Kos 229 Lolei 164 Wildlife Alliance 181, 182 Kompong Khleang 128 Comrade Duch 325 Eastern Baray 162 Kompong Luong 235 Phnom Bakheng 156, 156 consulates 349-50 Eastern Cambodia 34, Phnom Bok 165 cooking classes 336 Kompong Pluk 128, 111 Phnom Chisor 91 Battambang 241 270-302, 271 Me Chrey 128 Phnom Krom 164-5 Kampot 211 accommodation 270 Phoum Kandal 229 Prasat Kravan 159-60 climate 270 food 13, 16, 64, 108, 36-40, Pre Rup 162-3 highlights 271 372-3, 69, 111, 13, Preah Ko 163-4 Kompong Cham see also individual Ta Keo 158 locations Ta Prohm (Tonlé Bati) 90 cooking classes 55, 101- Thommanon 157 Yeay Peau 90 2, 188, 211, 241, 336 history 306-22, see also Khmer Rouge Angkorian empire 308-11 books 315, 317, 318, 319, 320, 323, 325 Chenla period 308

INDE X H - N380 festivals 211 Koh Ta Kiev 201-2 Killing Fields of history continued food 215-16 Koh Thmei 202 Choeung Ek 44 civil war 314-16 shopping 216-17 Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island) French rule 311-12 sights 210 Phnom Preah Reach Sihanouk rule 312-14 tourist information 217 11, 219, 11 Throap 86 UN Transitional tours 211 Kompong Cham 272-5, 272 Authority 319-21 travel to/from 217 Kompong Cham Ta Mok’s Grave 257 US bombings 312, 314-15 travel within 217 Wat Somrong Knong 247 Vietnamese Kampot Province 11, Province 272-7 Wat Thmei 99 intervention 317-19 210-24, 11 Kompong Chhnang 229, mobile phones 14, 354-5 HIV 368 Kampuchea 311-12 Mondulkiri Province 11, holidays 353 Kbal Chhay Cascades 201 232, 229 294-302, 11 horse riding 101, 188, 221 Kbal Spean 166-7 Kompong Chhnang money 14, 15, 351-2 moto travel 364 I Kep 219-24, 220 Province 229, 232 motorcycle travel 30, 360, accommodation 221-2 Kompong Khleang 128 362-4 ice cream 113 activities 220-1 Kompong Luong 235 museums & galleries Ieng Sary 325 beaches 220 Angkor Borei Archaeo- Independence Monument drinking & nightlife 224 Kompong Pluk 128, 111 food 223-4 Kompong Thom 265-7, 266 logical Museum 227 45, 48, 23 sights 219-20 Kompong Thom Province Angkor National insurance 350, 363, 366 tourist information 224 internet access 350 tours 221 265-9 Museum 95 internet resources 15 travel to/from 224 kramas 273 Battambang 237 travel within 224 Cambodia Landmine culture 308 Kratie 12, 277-80, 278, 12 disabilities, travellers Kep Butterfly Farm 220 Kratie Province 277-81 Museum 124 Khieu Samphan 258, 325 Kun Khmer 56, 102 House of Peace with 355 Khmer Krom 328 Kuy 267 environmental groups Khmer language 370-5 Association 98 Khmer Rouge 77, 314-19, L Killing Fields of 343-4, 346 history 307, 316 321-2, 323-5 land mines 168, 171, 248, Choeung Ek 44 travel advice 354 Anlong Veng 256-7 252, 256, 260, 354 Kompong Thom intestinal worms 368 Dangrek Mountains 258 Irrawaddy dolphins 279, 283 Kamping Poy 247-8 language 14, 370-5 Museum 265-6 islands 12, 16, 11, 12 Killing Fields of Laos border crossings 284 National Museum of Koh Dach 88 legal matters 350 Koh Kong Island 178 Choeung Ek 44 lesbian travellers 350 Cambodia 42-3, 9 Koh Paen 273 Kompong Chhnang LGBT travellers 350 Tani Museum of Koh Rong 12 lingas 143 Koh Tonsay 11 (Rabbit Airport 234 literature, see books Ceramics 124 Tuol Sleng Museum of Lumphat 294 Tuol Sleng Museum of Island) 219 Koh Trong 281 Genocide Crimes 43-4 M Genocidal Crimes 43-4 itineraries 20-5, 134-5, 140- Wat Somrong Knong 247 Vann Nath Gallery 48 1, 20, 22, 25, 26-7 kickboxing 56, 102 Mahendrapravarta 167 War Museum 99 Killing Fields of malaria 368 music 333-4 J Choeung Ek 44 maps 351 Kirirom National Park 91-2 markets 16-17 N Jayavarman II 132-3, Kleangs 155-6 167, 308-9 Koh Dach 88 Angkor Night Market 119 National Museum of Night Market, Phnom Cambodia 42-3, 9 Jayavarman VII 133, Koh Ker 169-71, 170 136, 308 Koh Kong City 174-8, 174 Penh 79 national parks & reserves Koh Kong Conservation Psar Chaa (Siem Reap) 344-5, see also wildlife K reserves Corridor 179-84 119, 110 Bokor National Park 218 Kakaoh 269 Koh Kong Island 178 Psar O Russei 79-80 Botum Sakor National Kamping Poy 247-8 Koh Kong Province 174-84 Psar Thmei 79 Park 181 Kampot 210-17, 212 Koh Nhek 302 Russian Market 79 Central Cardamoms Siem Reap Art Protected Forest accommodation 211-15 Koh Rong 202-6, 203, 12 180-1, 235 activities 210-11 Koh Rong Sanloem Center 119 Kep National Park 219 courses 210-11 martial arts 56, 102, 335 Kirirom National Park 92 drinking & 206-9, 206 Me Chrey 128 Mondulkiri Protected Koh Russei 202 media 305 Forest 302 entertainment 216 Koh Sdach Archipelago medical services 367 Peam Krasaop Mangrove Mekong Discovery Trail 283 Sanctuary 178-9 Map Pages 000 209-10 memorials Ream National Photo Pages 000 Park 200-1 Independence Monu- Seima Protected ment 45 Forest 301-2 Southern Cardamoms Killing Caves of Phnom Protected Forest 181 Sampeau, 246

381 Virachey National Phnom Bok 165 population 305, 326 rotei ses travel 365 Park 293-4 Phnom Chhnork 217-18 postal services 353 Royal Enclosure 154 Phnom Chisor 91 pradal sevey 56, 102 Night Market, Phnom Phnom Da 227 Prasat Kravan 159-60 Royal Palace 40-2, 68, 69 Penh 79 Phnom Krom 164-5 Prasat Phnom Banon rubber plantations 277 Phnom Kulen 167-8 Russian Market 79 Northern Cardamom Winery 247 Mountains 235-6 Phnom Penh 9, 33, 36,z 37, Prasat Preah Vihear 12, S I N D E X N - S 38-9, 46-7, 52-3, 58, Northwestern Cambodia 9, 23, 68-9 260-3, 261, 13 safe travel 353-4 34, 228-69, 230-1 accommodation Prasat Suor Prat 155-6 bag snatching 82 Banteay Meanchey 36, 56-62 Pre Rup 162-3 drugs 351 Province 250-5 activities 50-5 Preah Khan 160-1, land mines 168, 171, 248, Battambang Province around Phnom 252, 256, 260, 354 236-48 Penh 88-92 263-5, 160 Phnom Penh 81 climate 228 children, travelling Preah Ko 163-4 road travel 363-4 highlights 230-1 with 51 Siem Reap 120-1 Kompong Chhnang climate 36 Preah Neak Poan 161-2, 161 Sihanoukville 198 Province 229-32 courses 55 Preah Palilay 154-5 Kompong Thom Province drinking & nightlife Preah Pithu 155 Sambor 280-1 265-9 61, 73-6 Preah Rumkel 284-5 Sambor Prei Kuk 267-8 Oddar Meanchey entertainment 76-8 Preah Sihanouk Samlaut 250 Province 255-8 food 36, 62-73 Santuk Silk Farm 269 Pailin Province 248-50 highlights 37 Province 184-201 sculpture 334-5 Preah Vihear Province history 37, 40 Preah Vihear City Seima Protected 258-65 itineraries 41 Pursat Province 232-6 safety 81 259-60, 259 Forest 301-2 sights 228 shopping 78-81 Preah Vihear temples 228 sights 40-5, 48-50 Sen Monorom 295-300, 296 travel seasons 228 tourist information 81-3 Province 258-65 Serendipity Beach tours 55-6 Prek Toal Bird Nuon Chea 325 travel seasons 36 185-6, 190 travel to/from 83-6 Sanctuary 126-7, 31 sexually transmitted O travel within 86-8 Prey Chung Kran 277 Psar O Russei 79-80 infections 368 Occheuteal Beach Phnom Pros 275-6 Psar Thmei 79 shopping 16-17, 352, 373 185-6, 10 Phnom Samkos Wildlife public holidays 353 Siem Pang 285 Siem Reap 9, 33, 93-124, Oddar Meanchey Province Sanctuary 236 Pursat 232-4, 233 255-8 Phnom Sampeau 246 Pursat Province 232-6 94, 96, 100, 104, 125, Phnom Santuk 268-9 17, 110-11 opening hours 15, 352-3 Phnom Sombok 280 Q accommodation 93, 103-7 orphanage tourism 356 Phnom Sorsia 218 activities 99, 101 Otres Beach 186, 194 Phnom Srei 275-6 quad biking 30, 101, 211, 297 around Siem Reap 124-8 outboard travel 364-5 Phnom Tamao Wildlife children, travel with 95 R climate 93 P Rescue Centre 90-1 courses 101-2 photography 353 Ramsar List of Wetlands drinking & nightlife 115-17 Pailin 248-50, 249 Phoum Kandal 229 of International entertainment 117-18 Pailin Province 248-50 Importance food 93, 107-15 parks & gardens planning 6-7, 14, 20, Peam Krasaop Mangrove highlights 94 22, 25 Sanctuary 178-9 history 94-5 Koh Sampovmeas 233 budgeting 14-15 Preah Rumkel 284-5 shopping 118-20 Miniature Replicas of calendar of events 18-19 Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary sights 95, 98-9 Cambodia basics 14-15 126-7, 31 tourist information 120-1 Angkor’s Temples 98 Cambodia’s regions 33-4 tours 102-3 passports 358 highlights 6-7, 8-13 Ratanakiri Province 285-94 travel seasons 93 P’chum Ben (Festival of the itineraries 20-5, Ream National Park 200-1 travel to/from 122-3 134-5, 140-1 religion 329-30 travel within 124-5 Dead) 19 travel seasons 14, 18-19 remork-moto travel 365 Sihanouk, Norodom Peam Krasaop Mangrove responsible tourism 292-3, 313, 331 plants 344 Sihanoukville 10, 184-200, Sanctuary 178-9 Poipet 250-2 see also community 185, 187, 190, 194, 10 people 326-30, 69 Pol Pot 258, 315-18, projects accommodation 188-93 pepper 215 elephants 276 activities 186-8 Phare Ponleu Selpak 242-3 321-2, 323-5 hiking 288 beaches 185-6 Phare the Cambodian politics 304-5 Irrawaddy dolphins 279 courses 188 orphanages 356 Circus 117 rock climbing 32, 211 Phimeanakas 154 Roluos Temples Phnom Aural Wildlife Bakong 164 Lolei 164 Sanctuary 236 Preah Ko 163-4 Phnom Bakheng 156, 156 Phnom Bayong 227

382 I N D E X S -Z Sihanoukville continued T toilets 165, 355 Sihanoukville 187-8 drinking & nightlife 196-7 Tomb Raider 139, 149, Wat Hanchey 277 entertainment 197 Ta Keo 158 Wat Kor Village 237 food 194-6 Ta Mok 225, 256-7 158, 167 Wat Leu 185 shopping 197 Ta Nei 158 Tompuon 286, 288, 291-2 Wat Maha Leap 276-7 sights 185 Tonlé Bati 90 Wat Ounalom 45 tourist information 197-8 Ta Prohm 158-9, 159, Tonlé Sap 342 Wat Phnom 44-5 tours 188 17, 152 tourist information 355, weather 18-19, 29 travel to/from 198-9 websites, see internet travel within 199-200 Ta Som 162 see also individual Ta Veng 292 locations resouces silk tours 360-1, see also boat Western Baray 163 Artisans Angkor – Les Takeo 224-6, 225 cruises, individual Western Mebon 163 Chantiers Écoles silk Takeo Province 224-7 locations wetlands, see Ramsar List farm 95, 98 taxis 365 traditional medicine 369 Golden Silk 127 telephone services train travel 365 of Wetlands of Inter- Koh Dach 88 transport 15, 358-65, 374 national Importance Mekong Blue 282 14, 354-5 travel seasons 14, 18-19, wildlife 32, 342-4, see Prey Chung Kran 277 temples 16, see also  29, 14 also birds Santuk Silk Farm 269 travel to/from butterflies 124, 220, 111 Soieries du Mékong 255 Buddhist temples, Cambodia 358-61 doucs 301 Weaves of Cambodia 260 Hindu temples travel within elephants 90-1, 143, 180, temples of Angkor 9, Cambodia 361-5 181, 276, 298, 301, 24 Silver Pagoda 41-2 129-64, 130-1, 156, travellers with gibbons 90-1, 98, 250-1, 159, 160, 161, 169, disabilities 355 286, 293, 301, 302 Sisophon 252-3, 253 170, 134-5, 152-3 trekking, see hiking Irrawaddy dolphins Sneng 248 Angkor Thom 148-56, Tuol Sleng Museum of 279, 283 snorkelling, see water 149, 151, 21, 31, 153 Genocidal Crimes 43-4 tigers 90-1, 179, 293, 343 Angkor Wat 144-8, 144, turtles 281 turtles 281 sports 145, 8-9 typhoid 368 welfare 276, 279, 343-4 archaeology 137-9 wildlife reserves, see South Coast 34, 172-227, 173 architecture 138, U also national parks & accommodation 172 139-40, 143 reserves activities 172 around Angkor 164-9 Udong 88-90 Ang Trapeng Thmor climate 172 bathrooms 165 Unesco World Heritage Reserve 127 highlights 173 books 162, 310 Angkor Centre for Kampot Province 210-24 climate 140 Sites 129-71, 260-3 Conservation of Koh Kong Province 174-84 etiquette 133 Biodiversity 166 Preah Sihanouk Province food 157 V Banteay Srei Butterfly 184-201 history 132-5 Centre 124 Southern Islands 201-10 itineraries 134-5, 140-1 vacations 353 Kep Butterfly Farm 220 Takeo Province 224-7 land mines 168, 171 vaccinations 366, 367 Phnom Aural Wildlife travel seasons 172 remote Angkorian Veal Krous Vulture Feeding Sanctuary 236 sites 169-71 Phnom Samkos Wildlife Southern Islands 12, 201-10 Roluos Temples 163-4 Station 263 Sanctuary 236 toilets 165 vegetarian travellers 340 Phnom Tamao Wildlife Koh Rong 202-6, 203, 12 tourist information 141-2 Veun Sai 291-2 Rescue Centre 90-1 Koh Rong tours 141 Vietnam border crossings Prek Toal Bird travel seasons 140, 142 Sanctuary 126-7, 31 Sanloem 206-9 travel to/from 142-3 Binh Long 280 Seima Protected Koh Russei 202 Chau Doc 86, 226 Forest 301-2 Koh Sdach travel within 142-3, 146 Ha Tien 223 Veal Krous Vulture Tep Pranam 155 Ho Chi Minh City 84 Feeding Station 263 Archipelago 209-10 Terrace of Elephants 155 Pleiku 291 Virachey National Koh Ta Kiev 201-2 Terrace of the Leper Tay Ninh 275 Park 293-4 Koh Thmei 202 Virachey National women travellers 357 spa treatments 53-4, 101, 186 King 155 Park 293-4 work 357 Spean Thmor 157-8 Thailand border crossings visas 14, 355-6 sports 335 volunteering 356-7 Y Aranya Prathet 251 vultures 263, 285 Sra Srang 159, 153 Bangkok 121 yoga 54-5, 101 stilt houses, see floating Chanthaburi 250 W Phusing 258 Z villages Surin 253 walking, see hiking theft, see safe travel water sports 32, 208 ziplining 32, 98, 300 Stung Treng 282-4, 282 Thommanon 157 Stung Treng Province 281-5 tigers 90-1, 179, 293, 343 Kampot 211 time 14, 355 Kep 220 Map Pages 000 tipping 352 Koh Rong 204 Photo Pages 000 Koh Rong Sanloem 207

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 383 Map Legend Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Walking Tour Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour Sikh Gate Path/Walking Trail Taoist Hut/Shelter Winery/Vineyard Lighthouse Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Lookout Other Sight Mountain/Volcano International Oasis State/Province Activities, Park Disputed Courses & Tours Pass Regional/Suburb Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (National) Skiing Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Snorkelling City/Large Town Intermittent River Surfing Town/Village Canal Swimming/Pool Walking Transport Water Windsurfing Other Activity Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Border crossing Sleeping Bus Reef Cable car/Funicular Sleeping Cycling Areas Camping Ferry Metro/MRT/MTR station Airport/Runway Eating Monorail Parking Beach/Desert Eating Petrol station Skytrain/Subway station Cemetery (Christian) Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Train station/Railway Cemetery (Other) Drinking & Nightlife Tram Cafe Underground station Glacier Other Transport Entertainment Mudflat Note: Not all symbols displayed above Entertainment appear on the maps in this book Park/Forest Shopping Sight (Building) Shopping Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Nick Ray Coordinating writer, Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Temples of Angkor, Eastern Cambodia. A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife, Kulikar, and chil- dren, Julian and Belle. He has written for countless guidebooks on the Mekong region, including Lonely Planet’s Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand and Myanmar books, as well as Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. When not writ- ing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of Cambodia as a location scout and manager for the world of television and film, including everything from Tomb Raider to Top Gear. Motorbikes are a part-time passion and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels. Read more about Nick at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/nickjray Jessica Lee South Coast, Northwestern Cambodia. Jess first journeyed to Cambodia in the late ’90s and fell for its vine-wrapped temples and palm-studded rice-field vis- tas. She’s criss-crossed the country several times since then and this welcome return to the nation saw her exploring remote temples in some of Cambodia’s most far-flung corners and checking out the fast-changing scenes upon the sand of the South Coast’s islands. Jess is also an author on Lonely Planet’s Turkey, Egypt and Vietnam titles. She blogs about travel at www.roadessays.wordpress.com. Read more about Jessica at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/jessicalee1 Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – August 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum ISBN 978 1 74321 874 7 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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