Lonely Planet New York City

PDF New York City PDF ebook Edition 10th Edition Release Date August 2016 Pages 452 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

4 How to Use This Book easy-to-use Top Sights features provide in-depth sections coverage of the city’s very best sights. Plan Your Trip THE HIGH LINE Your planning tool kit Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: Photos, lists and suggestions to help you create your perfect trip. 1 SIGHTS 3 ENTERTAINMENT 5 EATING 7 SHOPPING Explore 6 DRINKING & 2 SPORTS & Your complete city guide NIGHTLIFE ACTIVITIES Top Sights features, in-depth All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, reviews and local tips. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that Understand we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Get more from your trip Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Learn about the big picture, so you range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. can make sense of the city. These symbols and abbreviations give vital Survival Guide information for each listing: Your at-a-glance reference Must-visit recommendation Vital practical information to help Sustainable or green recommendation you have a smooth trip. No payment required plus % Telephone number f Ferry h Opening hours j Tram full-colour p Parking d Train map section n Nonsmoking apt apartments a Air-conditioning d double rooms 314 315 i Internet access dm dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms Key on p313 e# 0 500 m s Swimming pool r rooms A 0 0.25 miles v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites 1 Hauptbahnhof B C D EF GH c Family-friendly tr triple rooms Alt-Moabit gh Johannisstr 222 # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms ji g Bus Washingtonplatz See map Charité- Kalkscheunenstr Oranienburger Str 2Alte2r 2 p319 Platz 2 Jü2disc2her 2Frie2dhof2 Monbijou2p2lat2z 2 2 2 Rahel-Hirsch-Str Spree Kapelleufer Luisenstr Schumannstr Friedrichstr Tucholskystr 1 River Ziegelstr Monbijoustr Reinhardtstr Am Weidendamm Neu Hackescher MarekPt¦#romenade HISTORIC MITTE Willy-B#ærMano6dltt-SkterbrücOktetoS-pvroBenPeu-banBoud#§igles-esLmntöapabgarecr2-K#ækkA6o-Alnlerlaleede-AdenauerA-2#æSd5terl-eK1#æ-9rSicehgreeri-KbSaetrrrlplatSzchRiMefifcabhraiseutneasrgdturafemrm Albrechtstr Bertolt- Monbijou HISTORIC MITTE Brecht- Park Burgstr Platz Hackescher 52 Geschwister-Scholl-Str Universitätsstr Markt #û 33 Friedrichstr Planckstr gh49#ú #ú Bahnhof #â 31 §# #ý #þ Am Kupfergraben Friedrichstr 2 £#¦# 56 Friedrichbrücke 2 16 Friedrichstr #æ #ú Georgenstr Bauho7f1s7t r#â Bodestr See map p318 48 Heinrich-Von- Gagern-Str Hegelplatz Am Zeughaus Liebknecht- 62 brücke ý# RPleaptuz bdleikr â# Reichstag Dorotheenstr 67 Charlottenstr ý#61 æ# Lustgarten Site of Mittelstr #ú 42 #þ #ü IM Pei Future Berliner Humboldt Bau 3 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee Yitzhak-Rabin-Str Scheidemannstr Universität 55 ú# 34 24 â# Strasse des 17 Juni 72 #æ 3 See map 65 #þ Staatsoper Deutsches 4 p316 Bran&dePnabriusregrePr lTa#æotzDrï#Z0000000000BP0000000000aPan#æ0000000000lraikst00000000007zeB#æ8rr0000000000a#ÿ1#nd#§7Te4onAHrbduorl#¦togeneâ#lr #þ Linden Unter den Historisches Stadtschloss 18 59 #ý 53 Unter den Museum Schlossplatz Rathausstr Tiergarten #û #â 2 Linden 28 30 38 #ú 3 æ# ý# Oberwallstr Bellevueallee #æ #æ Bebelplatz 5 #ý 58 47#þ4æ#13#ú04#ú532ÿ##þ#ú#ú5#ý000000000000000077379B3G00000000000000009#ý6ee0000000000000000h0#Ünr0000000000000000eæ#Fd1nra30000000000000000asrnt4m0000000000000000rz76#þöeâ##ú#þ3sni2û#6â#5ms111c14aâ#hre#Ü2k2S7Ht2Jtaräu§#gsevHrosagtutr3ú#es7vipo1l5gat#âte7#ÿzi6plAatuzsAwAuämsrwAttWiämgrSeetttrsigadeaestrssrtartsgePbeäturidpelatzBreite Str Tiergartenstr 54 û# ú# Behrenstr For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. 46 Französische Str 2 H2 o2lo2c2au2s2t 2 2 Cora-Berliner-Str §# 4 2 M2emo2ria2l 2 5 Glinkastr Jägerstr #æ2 2 2 2 Mauerstr 22222 Tiergartentunnel 8 2 22Ha2nn22ah2S-Atr22ren2d22t- 2 Oberwasserstr #æ In den Ministergärten #æ 17 Kolonnade Taubenstr §##ú â# 9 Markgrafenstr Mohrenstr #ú 40Jerusalemer Str NiederwallstrKurstr 77 An der Stadtmitte 36 50 #û Kronenstr #ÿ Lennéstr #þ Kemperplatz Ebertstr §# 68 Mohrenstr Bellevuestr Am Park Vossstr Friedrichstr §# Ben-Gurion-Str Mauerstr Leipziger Str Spittelmarkt Wilhelmstr Leipziger Platz â# Markgrafenstr Krausenstr ÿ# 75 Axel-Springer-Str Leipziger Str 23 Charlottenstr Kulturforum PPolAatltstzedPaomtsedramer StDr aiml#¦er Potsdame#§r Platz 12 â# 10 Schützenstr Kommandantenstr 6 6 Matthäikirchplatz City Potsdamer Platz â# Niederkirchner Str Sigismundstr Potsdamer Str Topographie #æ 29 Zimmerstr w ji hg4 â# #â5 #ú 41 GKaöbtrhieelneLe-irTneSkrtsgrtirt-Promenade des Terrors æ#Checkpoint Charlie Marlene- æ# 66 #þ #þ Dietrich- Askanischer 69 Platz 20 â# #ú 43 Rudi-Dutschke-Str Platz D#¦ #ú 45 Landwehrkanal ScRheöicnhebpeiertgsecrhUuPffeeorBrtsrüdcakmeer Stresemannstr Kochstr §# Kochstr Lindenstr Oranienstr 7 Alt e Jakobstr Waldeckpark 7 See map Ritterstr See map p322 p324 ABC E F GH 42-map-section-bln8.indd 314 23/114/220-1m2ap3-s:1e5ct:i3o2n-PbMln8.indd 315 23/11/2012 3:15:32 PM

Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd New York City “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Regis St Louis, Cristian Bonetto, Zora O’Neill

Contents PPllaannYYoouurrTTrriipp page 1 4 Welcome to Getting Around�������������� 22 Eating���������������������������39 New York City������������������ 4 Top Itineraries��������������� 24 Drinking & Nightlife��� 43 New York City’s If You Like..���������������������26 Entertainment������������ 46 Top 16������������������������������� 6 Month By Month������������29 Shopping��������������������� 49 What’s New���������������������17 With Kids �����������������������33 Sports & Activities�����53 Need to Know���������������� 18 Like a Local�������������������� 35 Gay & Lesbian�������������56 First Time For Free�������������������������� 37 New York City ���������������20 Explore New York City  58 Neighborhoods West Village, Chelsea Harlem & Upper at a Glance������������������ 60 & the Meatpacking Manhattan�������������������246 Lower Manhattan & District�������������������������� 130 Brooklyn�����������������������263 the Financial District�����62 Union Square, Flatiron Queens������������������������ 302 District & Gramercy�����161 SoHo & Chinatown��������83 Midtown������������������������175 Day Trips from Upper East Side������������211 New York City������������318 East Village & Upper West Side & Lower East Side����������� 105 Central Park�����������������228 Sleeping�������������������� 330 Understand New York City 351 New York City The NYC Table�������������363 Queer City: Today��������������������������� 352 The Arts�����������������������367 From Stonewall to History��������������������������354 Architecture����������������� 371 Marriage Equality��������376 NYC on Screen������������379 Survival Guide 383 Transportation����������� 384 Directory A–Z������������� 390 New York City Maps  407

VISIONS OF OUR LAND / GETTY IMAGES © LITTLENY / SHUTTERSTOCK © (left) Escape the city’s BLACKWATERIMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © madness in Central Park (p230). (above) Wander through Washington Square Park (p135). (right) Spot squirrels in Lower Manhattan’s Battery Park (p74). Harlem & Upper Manhattan p246 Upper West Side & Central Park p228 Upper East Side p211 West Village, Midtown Chelsea & the p175 Meatpacking District Queens p302 p130 Union Square, Flatiron District & SoHo & Gramercy p161 Chinatown p83 East Village & Lower East Side Lower Manhattan p105 & the Financial District Brooklyn p62 p263

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to New York City One of the world’s most captivating places, New York City has it all: celebrated concert halls, a renowned dining and drinking scene, and fascinating neighborhoods filled with people from every corner of the globe. Nexus of the Arts fishmongers, then stroll up to Nolita for enticing boutiques and coffee-tasting among The Met, MoMA and the Guggenheim are the craft-minded scenesters. Every neighbor- just the beginning of a dizzying list of art- hood offers a dramatically different version world icons. You’ll find museums devoted of New York City – from the 100-year-old to everything from fin de siècle Vienna to Jewish delis of the Upper West Side to the immigrant life in the Lower East Side, and meandering cobblestone lanes of Greenwich sprawling galleries filled with Japanese Village. And the best way to experience this sculpture, postmodern American paint- city is to walk its streets. ing, Himalayan textiles and New York City lore. For a glimpse of current and future The Night Is Young greats, delve into the cutting-edge galleries of Chelsea and the Lower East Side, with When the sun sinks slowly beyond the Hud- their myriad exhibition spaces and festive son and luminous skyscrapers light up the opening-night parties (usually Thursday night, New York transforms into one grand night if you want to join in). stage. Well-known actors take to the legend- ary theaters of Broadway as world-class Urban Wanderers soloists, dancers and musicians perform at venues large and small across town. Wheth- With its compact size and streets packed er high culture or low, New York embraces with eye-candy of all sorts – architectural it all: in-your-face rock shows at Williams- treasures, Old World cafes, atmospheric burg dives, lavish opera productions at the booksellers and curio shops – NYC is an ur- Lincoln Center, and everything in between. ban wanderer’s delight. Crossing continents This is a city of experimental theater, im- is as easy as walking over a few avenues in prov comedy, indie cinema, ballet, poetry this jumbled city of 200-plus nationalities. readings, burlesque, world music, jazz and You can lose yourself in the crowds of China- so much more. If you can dream it up, it’s town amid brightly painted Buddhist tem- probably happening in NYC. ples, steaming noodle shops and fragrant

MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET © Why I Love New York City By Regis St Louis, Writer While there are many reasons to fall for New York, I’ve always loved the energy here. There’s so much creativity in the air, with wildly imaginative works filling the city’s galler- ies and concert halls – not to mention its restaurants, with ever more inventive mash-ups of global cuisines. Despite living for many years in New York, I never tire of exploring the metropolis. You can cross continents with the mere swipe of a MetroCard, visiting colorful neighborhoods that contain an astonishing variety of cultures and ethnicities (particularly in Queens). The people, the food, the art: NYC has many virtues, which is why so many of us can’t imagine living anywhere else. For more about our writers, see p452 Top: The High Line (p132)

6 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd New York City’s Top 16 Statue of Liberty Food Scene (p39) & Ellis Island (p64) 2 One of New York’s greatest assets is the 1 Since its unveiling in 1886, Lady Liberty sheer variety of its restaurants. In a single has welcomed millions of immigrants, sail- neighborhood you’ll find vintage-filled gastro- ing into New York Harbor in the hope of a better pubs, sushi counters, tapas bars, French life. It now welcomes millions of tourists, many bistros, barbecue joints, pizza parlors, vegan of whom head up to her crown for one of New cafes and good old-fashioned delis whipping York City’s finest skyline and water views. Close up toasted bagels with lox and cream cheese. by lies Ellis Island (p68), the American gateway And that’s just the beginning. There’s no wrong for over 12 million new arrivals between 1892 way to eat a meal, whether that means ordering and 1954. These days it’s home to one of the from a food truck, nibbling your way through a city’s most moving museums, paying tribute to market or sliding into that soft leather booth for these immigrants and their indelible courage. a 4am feast after a night on the town. 1 Lower Manhattan & the Financial 5 Eating District

7 HAYLEON68 / LONELY PLANET © SIVAN ASKAYO / LONELY PLANET ©

8 Central Park (p230) Broadway & Times Square (p177) 3 London has Hyde Park. Paris has the Bois de Boulogne. And New York City 4 Sizzling lights, electrifying energy: has Central Park. One of the world’s most this is the America of the world’s renowned green spaces, it checks in with imagination. Broadway (p179) is NYC’s 843 acres of rolling meadows, boulder- dream factory – a place where romance, studded outcrops, elm-lined walkways, betrayal, murder and triumph come with manicured European-style gardens, a dazzling costumes and stirring scores. The lake and a reservoir – not to mention an district’s undisputed star is bright, blind- outdoor theater, a memorial to John Len- ing Times Square. More than the meeting non, an idyllic waterside eatery (the Loeb point of Broadway and Seventh Ave, this Boathouse) and one very famous statue is America in concentrate – an intense, of Alice in Wonderland. The big challenge? intoxicating rush of Hollywood billboards, Figuring out where to begin. shimmering cola signs, and buffed topless cowboys. Welcome to the ‘crossroads of 1Upper West Side & Central Park the world’. MITCHELL FUNK / GETTY IMAGES © 3Midtown PLAN YOUR TRIP New York City’s Top 16

MBBIRDY / GETTY IMAGES © 9PLAN YOUR TRIP New York City’s Top 16 LEONARDO PATRIZI / GETTY IMAGES © Empire State Building (p180) 5 The striking art-deco sky- scraper may no longer be New York’s tallest building, but it remains one of its most rec- ognizable icons. The ESB has appeared in dozens of films and still provides one of the best views in town – particu- larly around sunset when the twinkling lights of the city (and neighboring states) switch on. The beloved landmark hasn’t stopped turning heads, espe- cially since the addition of LED lights which create more than 16 million color possibilities. Keep your eye to the sky on big holidays, when dramatic dis- plays light up the night sky. 1Midtown

SYLVAIN SONNET / GETTY IMAGES © MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET © 10 PL A N YO U R TRI P N EW Y ORK C IT Y ’ S TOP 1 6

11 PL A N YO U R TRI P N EW Y ORK C IT Y ’ S TOP 1 6 SYLVAIN SONNET / GETTY IMAGES © Brooklyn Bridge The High Line Metropolitan Museum of Art (p266) (p132) (p214) 6 Completed in 1883, 7 A resounding triumph this Gothic Revival of urban renewal, the 8 With more than two masterpiece – crafted High Line is – without a million objects in its entirely from granite – has doubt – New York’s proud- collections, the Met is sim- inspired poetry (Jack Ker- est testament to the con- ply dazzling. Its great works ouac’s ‘Brooklyn Bridge tinuous effort to transform span the world, from the Blues’), music (Frank the scarring vestiges of the chiseled sculptures of an- Sinatra’s ‘Brooklyn Bridge’) city’s industrial past into cient Greece to the evoca- and plenty of art (Walker eye-pleasing spaces. Once tive tribal carvings of Papua Evans’ photography). It is an unsightly elevated train New Guinea. The Renais- also the most scenic way track that snaked between sance galleries are packed to cross from Manhattan slaughterhouses and low- with Old World masters, into Brooklyn. Go early in end domestic dwellings, while the relics of ancient the morning (we’re talking the High Line is today an Egypt fire the imagination – sun-up) to have the bridge unfurled emerald necklace particularly the Temple of largely to yourself. Come at of park space that encour- Dendur, complete with its sunset for romantic views ages calm, crowds, and has 2000-year-old stone walls as the amber skies form a – unsurprisingly – acted covered in hieroglyphics magnificent backdrop to as a veritable real estate and carvings of papyrus Lower Manhattan. Aside magnet luring world-class seemingly growing from a from strolling that plank architects to the neighbor- pond. After you think you’ve path, you can also ride a hood to create gorgeous seen enough, head up to the bike across the bridge. iterations of residential eye rooftop for a sweeping view candy. over Central Park. 1Brooklyn 1West Village, Chelsea 1Upper East Side & the Meatpacking District

12 Neighborhood Rambling One World Observatory (p71) (p138) 10 New York’s tallest and most antici- pated skyscraper has arrived – a 9 One of the best ways to see New York soaring 104-story landmark that looms like is to pick a neighborhood, put on your a beacon above Lower Manhattan. Take a walking shoes and spend the day exploring. high-speed ride in a ‘sky pod’ to the top for Greenwich Village is a fine place to start, fabulous views over the city and surround- with picturesque cobblestone streets dot- ing states. Apart from the jaw-dropping ted with sunlit shops, narrow sidewalk cafes panorama, a visit here gives insight into and quaint restaurants that beckon you in- the workers who helped build the tower, side. For a different take on New York, head and shows the very bedrock upon which over to the Bohemian East Village, overload the tower stands. There’s also a virtual your senses down in Chinatown, or take time-lapse that shows the evolution of the in the local scene in gallery-filled Chelsea. city skyline from the 1600s to the present. This is a city that invites endless wandering. 1 Lower Manhattan & the Financial STREET ART IN GREENWICH VILLAGE District 1West Village, Chelsea & the Meatpacking District LELA KIELER / 500 PX © PL A N YO U R TRI P N EW Y ORK C IT Y ’ S TOP 1 6

F11PHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK © 13PL A N YO U R TRI P N EW Y ORK C IT Y ’ S TOP 1 6 SIEGFRIED LAYDA / GETTY IMAGES © National September 11 Memorial & Museum (p68) 11 Rising from the ashes of Ground Zero, the National September 11 Memo- rial & Museum is a beautiful, dignified response to the city’s darkest chapter. Where the Twin Towers once soared, two reflecting pools now weep like dark, elegant waterfalls. Framing them are the names of those who lost their lives on September 11 and in the 1993 World Trade Center bombing. Deep below lies the Memorial Museum, a powerful, poignant exploration of these cata- strophic events, the latter of which was the deadliest attack on American soil. 1Lower Manhattan & the Financial District

14 MoMA (p182) 13 Quite possibly the greatest hoarder Williamsburg (p270) of modern masterpieces on earth, 12 Retro cocktail lounges peddling a Depression-era vibe. Artsy eater- ies dishing out everything from barbecue the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) is ribs to Michelin-starred gastronomy. a cultural promised land. It’s here that And enough music halls and rowdy beer you’ll see Van Gogh’s The Starry Night, gardens to keep the most dedicated night Cézanne’s The Bather, Picasso’s Les Dem- SASCHA KILMER / GETTY IMAGES ©owls up for weeks. Prefer the daylightoiselles d’Avignon, Pollock’s One: Number PLAN YOUR TRIP New York City’s Top 16 hours? Williamsburg is stocked with an ar- 31, and Warhol’s Campbell’s Soup Cans. ray of designer homeware shops, in addi- Just make sure you leave time for Chagall, tion to fashion outposts of all stripes, from Dix, Rothko, de Kooning and Haring, a free vintage thrift emporiums to high-design film screening, a glass of vino in the Sculp- boutiques. It’s not for nothing that this ture Garden, a little designer retail therapy, Brooklyn neighborhood – just one subway and a fine-dining feed at its lauded in- stop from downtown Manhattan – is the house restaurant, the Modern. city’s trendiest hangout. 1Midtown 1Brooklyn

ERIKA CROSS / SHUTTERSTOCK © 15PLAN YOUR TRIP New York City’s Top 16 LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES © Music & Nightlife (p43) 14 Trendy all-night lounges tucked behind the walls of a Chinese restaurant; taco shops that clandestinely host late-night tranny cabarets; stadium-size clubs that clang to the thump of DJ’d beats; and after-after-after-parties on the roof as the sun rises. An alter- nate universe lurks between the cracks of everyday life, and it welcomes savvy visitors just as much as locals in the know. If New York doesn’t turn into a pumpkin come midnight, why should you? 3Drinking & Nightlife

PLAN YOUR TRIP New York City’s Top 1616 MATT MUNRO / GETTY IMAGES © Shopping (p49) PISAPHOTOGRAPHY / SHUTTERSTOCK © 15 Take it from the likes of Holly Golightly and Carrie Bradshaw, New York is a beacon of the material world. Hundreds of creators – both local and international – descend upon the city with alacrity to display their wares. You’ll find dozens of ways to empty your coffers, but at the end of the day shopping in New York isn’t about collecting a closet full of items, it’s about accessing the city’s myriad subcultures through their art and artifacts. 7Shopping Out on the Water (p75) 16 Step off the island of Manhattan onto a ferry and you’ll have a new appreciation for those pedestrian-clogged streets as the city skyline rises slowly into view. Governors Island makes a fine destination, with new parkland, art exhibitions and peace- ful, car-free lanes to stroll or cycle along. You can also hop across to Brooklyn aboard the East River Ferry (p388). The dock near the Brooklyn Bridge Park (p265) makes an excel- lent entry point to the borough. Meanwhile, the free Staten Island ferry (p82) provides superb views of the Statue of Liberty. GOVERNORS ISLAND (P75) 1Lower Manhattan & the Financial District

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 17 What’s New PL A N YO U R TRI P W H AT ’ S N E W Queens Anthony Bourdain’s 155,000-sq-ft market Long overshadowed by Manhattan and opening in 2017, on a Hudson pier west of Brooklyn, Queens is on the rise, with much the Meatpacking District. happening throughout its web of multi- ethnic neighborhoods. In recent years, Brooklyn Flea & Smorgasburg the massive borough (biggest by size) has Speaking of markets, Brooklyn’s big shop- seen the opening of new microbreweries, ping and eating extravaganzas, Brooklyn thoughtfully designed boutique hotels (at Flea (p280) and Smorgasburg (p285), have half the price of Manhattan options), farm- only gotten bigger and better. There’s also to-table eateries and under-the-radar art a Long Island City Flea (in Queens) that galleries (in Ridgewood), plus an ever live- continues to expand. lier seaside scene at Far Rockaway. If you haven’t been, now’s the time to go. (p302) National Sawdust Company Williamsburg’s newest performing arts Downtown Nightlife theater stages a mix of genre-bending con- Despite news of its ever-imminent demise, certs and artist showcases. The futuristic nightlife in downtown Manhattan is still hall has outstanding acoustics. (p295) alive and well. Among other openings, a great new jazz bar (Mezzrow; p155) has St Ann’s Warehouse landed in the West Village, while an under- Speaking of theaters, St Ann’s Warehouse ground club (Berlin; p119) harks back to has opened its doors in its first ever perma- pre-Giuliani days in the East Village. nent location under the Brooklyn Bridge. Expect to see cutting-edge programming, Whitney Museum of American Art for which St Ann’s is so well-known. (p296) At the southern end of the High Line, the Whitney Museum opened its brand One World Trade Center new Renzo Piano–designed building. The The tallest building in New York now looms gorgeous light-filled galleries bring more high above Lower Manhattan. While you space and innovation to downtown’s most can admire its jewel-like facade from afar, impressive art center. (p136) the best view is up top from the magnifi- cent observatory on the 102nd floor. (p70) Mindful Dining With increased awareness of the devastation Uptown Allure of animal agriculture, growing numbers of Downtown cool is finally arriving in both New Yorkers are embracing a vegan diet. the Upper West and Upper East Sides, with You’ll find outstanding dishes at new hot a sprinkling of craft brew pubs (West End spots like El Rey (p116), Dimes (p118) and Hall; p241), creative cocktail dens (The vegan-only Peacefood (p139) downtown. Daisy; p225) and earth-friendly eateries (Birdbath Bakery; p236). Market Madness The love for food markets shows no signs For more recommendations of abating, with sprawling new Manhattan and reviews, see lonelyplanet. foodie halls, including Gansevoort Mar- com/usa/new-york-city ket (p148). There’s more ahead, including

18 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p383) Currency Daily Costs Advance Planning US dollar (US$) Budget: Two months before Book your Less than $100 hotel reservations as soon as Language possible – prices increase the ¨¨Dorm bed: $40–70 closer you get to your arrival English ¨¨Slice of pizza: around $4 date. Snag tickets to your favorite ¨¨Food-truck taco: from $3 Broadway blockbuster. Visas ¨¨Bus or subway ride: $2.75 Three weeks before If you haven’t done so already, score The US Visa Waiver Program al- Midrange: $100–300 a table at your top-choice high- lows nationals of 38 countries to end restaurant. enter the US without a visa. ¨¨Double room in a midrange One week before Surf the web hotel: from around $200 and scan blogs and Twitter for Money ¨¨Brunch for two at a the latest restaurant and bar midrange restaurant: $70 openings, plus upcoming art ATMs widely available; credit ¨¨Dinner for two at a midrange exhibitions. cards accepted at most hotels, eatery: $130 stores and restaurants. Farm- ¨¨Craft cocktail at a lounge: Useful Websites ers markets, food trucks and $14–18 some restaurants and bars are ¨¨Discount TKTS ticket to a Lonely Planet (www.lonely cash-only. Broadway show: $80 planet.com/usa/new-york-city) ¨¨Brooklyn Academy of Music Destination information, hotel Cell Phones orchestra seats: from $84 bookings, traveler forum and more. Most US cell phones, apart from Top End: NYC: The Official Guide (www. the iPhone, operate on CDMA, More than $300 nycgo.com) New York City’s not the European standard GSM; official tourism portal. check compatibility with your ¨¨Luxury stay at the NoMad Explore Brooklyn (www.explore phone service provider. Hotel: $325–850 bk.com) Brooklyn-specific ¨¨Tasting menu at a top-end events and listings. Time restaurant: $85–325 New York Magazine (www. ¨¨A 1½-hour massage at the nymag.com) Comprehensive, Eastern Standard Time (GMT/ atmospheric Great Jones Spa: current listings for bars, UTC minus five hours) $200 restaurants, entertainment and ¨¨Metropolitan Opera shopping. Tourist Information orchestra seats: $100–390 New York Times (www.nytimes. com) Excellent local news cover- There are official NYC Visitor age and theater listings. Information Centers throughout the city. The main office is in Midtown (%212-484-1222; www. nycgo.com; Seventh Ave, at 44th St, Midtown West; h9am-6pm; bN/Q/R, S, 1/2/3, 7 to Times Sq-42nd St).

19 WHEN TO GO °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm Summers can be 40/104 10/250 scorching hot; 30/86 8/200 winters cold and 20/68 6/150 not without their 10/50 4/100 PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K no w blizzards. Spring or 0/32 2/50 autumn are the best times to explore. -10/14 0 JF MAM J J A S OND Arriving in Tipping Sleeping New York Tipping is not optional; In general, accommoda- John F Kennedy International only withhold tips in cases tions prices in New York Airport (p384) The AirTrain of outrageously bad service. City do not abide by any ($5) links to the Metropolitan ¨¨Restaurant servers high-season or low-season Transportation Authority’s 18–20%, unless a gratuity is rules; wavering rates usu- (MTA’s) subway ($2.75), which already charged on the bill ally reflect availability. makes the one-hour journey (usually only for groups of five With over 50 million visi- into Manhattan. Express bus to or more). tors descending upon the Grand Central or Port Author- ¨¨Bartenders 15–20% per city every year, you can ity costs $16. Shared vans to round, minimum per drink $1 expect that hotel rooms Manhattan hotels run $20 to for standard drinks, and $2 per fill up quickly – especially $25. Taxis cost a flat rate of $52 specialty cocktail. in summer. Accommoda- excluding tolls and tip. ¨¨Taxi drivers 10–15%, tions options range from LaGuardia Airport (p384) rounded up to the next dollar. boxy cookie-cutter rooms This is the closest airport to ¨¨Airport & hotel porters $2 in Midtown high-rises to Manhattan but least accessible per bag, minimum per cart $5. stylish boutique options by public transit: take the Q70 ¨¨Hotel maids $2–4 per night, downtown. You’ll also find express bus from the airport to left in envelope or under the a few B&Bs set in residen- the 74th St–Broadway subway card provided. tial neighborhoods. station (7 line, or the E, F, M and R lines at the connecting For much more on Useful Websites Jackson Heights Roosevelt Ave money, see p392. station). Express bus to Midtown ¨¨newyorkhotels.com (www. costs $13. Taxis range from $26 newyorkhotels.com) The self- to $48 (excluding tolls and tip) proclaimed official website for depending on traffic. hotels in NYC. ¨¨NYC (www.nycgo.com/ Newark Liberty Interna- hotels) Loads of listings from tional Airport (p385) Take the NYC Official Guide. the AirTrain to Newark Airport ¨¨Lonely Planet (www. train station, and board any train lonelyplanet.com/usa/ bound for New York’s Penn Sta- new-york-city/hotels) tion ($12.50). Express bus to Port Accommodation reviews and Authority or Grand Central costs online booking service. $16. Shared shuttle to Midtown costs $20 to $26. Taxis range For much more on from $60 to $80 (excluding the sleeping, see p330. unavoidable $13 toll and tip). For much more on arrival, see p384.

20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd First Time New York City For more information, see Survival Guide (p383) Checklist Top Tips for Your Trip ¨¨Ensure your passport is ¨¨MetroCards are valid on subways, buses and the tramway to valid for at least six months Roosevelt Island. If staying a while, buy a 7-Day Unlimited Pass. past your arrival date. ¨¨Subway lines run both local and express trains. ¨¨Check you meet all ESTA ¨¨If the number on a taxi’s top light is lit, it’s available. visa requirements for travel ¨¨When giving an address, always include the nearest cross to the US. street/s (for example, 700 Sixth Ave at 22nd St). ¨¨Check airline baggage ¨¨The TKTS Booth in Times Square sells half-price, same-day restrictions. tickets to selected shows and musicals. The South Street Seaport ¨¨Arrange for appropriate and Downtown Brooklyn branches also sell next-day matinee tickets. travel insurance. ¨¨Inform your credit-/debit- What to Wear card company of your travels. ¨¨Book popular restaurants, If visiting during New York’s hot, humid summer, pack light shows and accommodations garments. Fashionable shorts, T-shirts, summer dresses and well in advance. skirts are all acceptable daywear, though higher-end restau- rants and bars often call for more stylish attire, so bring at What to Pack least one evening dress or long-sleeved shirt, pair of pants and dress shoes. Fluctuating temperatures in spring and fall call ¨¨Good walking shoes – New for layers: pants, jeans or warmer dresses, mixed with T-shirts, York City is best seen on foot, long-sleeve shirts, light sweaters, a smart blazer for men and so make sure your feet are a jacket for women. New York winters can be brutally cold, super comfy. requiring gloves, scarf, hat, insulated, waterproof jacket and ¨¨Dress shoes and a stylish waterproof boots. In the evenings, ‘dress to impress’ remains outfit for smart restaurants the rule at many restaurants, bars and entertainment venues. and bars. ¨¨If traveling with Be Forewarned medications, ensure you bring enough for your trip. Crime rates in NYC are still at their lowest in years. There ¨¨US electrical adapter. are few neighborhoods where you might feel apprehensive no matter what time of night it is (they’re mainly in the outer bor- oughs). Subway stations are generally safe, too, though again, especially in the outer boroughs, some can be dicey. There’s no reason to be paranoid, but it’s better to be safe than sorry, so use common sense: don’t walk around alone at night in sparse- ly populated areas, especially if you’re a woman. Carry your daily money inside your clothing or in a front pocket rather than in a handbag or a back pocket, and be aware of pickpock- ets, particularly in mobbed areas, such as Times Square.

21 Taxes & Refunds PL A N YO U R TRI P F irst T ime N ew Y o rk C ity Restaurants and retailers DAN HALLMAN / LONELY PLANET © never include the sales tax – 8.875% – in their prices, so beware of ordering the $4.99 lunch special when you only have $5 to your name. Several categories of so-called ‘luxury items,’ including rental cars and dry-cleaning, carry an ad- ditional city surcharge of 5%, so you wind up paying an extra 13.875% in total for these services. Clothing and footwear purchases under $110 are tax free; anything over that amount has a state sales tax of 4.5%. ­Hotel rooms in New York City are subject to a 14.75% tax, plus a flat $3.50 occu- pancy tax per night. Since the US has no nationwide value-added tax (VAT), there is no opportunity for foreign visitors to make ‘tax-free’ purchases. Money Savers Grand Central Terminal (p184) New York City is expensive, Tackling Crowds but that doesn’t mean you can’t save some notes. If Avoid the ire of millions of harried New Yorkers by fol- you plan on blitzing the lowing some basic rules. When catching the subway, have major sights, consider buy- your MetroCard at the ready (black stripe facing inward) ing one of the numerous before reaching the turnstile to avoid delays. If carrying multi-attraction passes a backpack, take it off on crowded trains. When walking (see www.nycgo.com/ on busy sidewalks, keep to the right. If you need to stop or attraction-passes). Numer- slow down, move to the side to let others pass. ous museums are always free, while others offer weekly free admission times or pay-what-you-wish hours, among them MoMA and the Guggenheim. On the food front, numerous high-end restaurants offer cheaper, prix-fixe lunch menus, sometimes featur- ing dishes from the dinner menu.

22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Getting Around For more information, see Transportation (p384) Check the Metropolitan Key Phrases Key Routes Transportation Authority (www. mta.info/nyct) website for Car service You can phone a car Scenic views Take the J, M or public transportation information service (often a black sedan) Z line over the Williamsburg (buses and subway), including a to pick you up. Useful on return Bridge or the B, D, N or Q line handy travel planner and regular trips to the airport or if needing over the Manhattan Bridge notifications of delays and alter- outer-borough transport (where for great views of Manhattan. nate travel routes during frequent taxis are in short supply). There’s also the Roosevelt Is- maintenance. Citi Bike The ubiquitous blue land Tramway (www.rioc.ny.gov/ bikes that are part of NYC’s traintransportation). Subway bike-sharing scheme, with Uptown bound The 4, 5 or 6 hundreds of quick-hire kiosks lines go to the Upper East Side; Inexpensive, somewhat efficient around town. for the Upper West Side take the and operates around the clock, B, C, 1, 2 or 3 trains. though can be confusing to the Express train/local train uninitiated. Single ride is $2.75 Express subway trains make Taxi Etiquette with a MetroCard. A 7-Day Unlim- limited stops, skipping many ited Pass costs $31. stations; local trains stop at ¨¨To hail one of NYC’s yellow every station. To switch between cabs, look for one with its roof Buses the two, often you just have to light lit (if it’s not lit, the cab cross the platform. is taken). Convenient during off hours – LIRR The Long Island Rail Road, ¨¨Stand in a prominent place especially when transferring useful for speedy transport to on the side of the road and between the city’s eastern and JFK and for beach getaways. stick out your arm. western sides. Uses the Metro- MetroCard The flimsy yellow- ¨¨Once inside the cab, tell Card; same price as the subway. and-blue card, which you load them your destination (it’s with credit, then swipe through illegal for drivers to refuse you Taxi for every ride on the subway a ride somewhere). or bus. ¨¨Pay your fare at the end, Meters start at $2.50 and Uptown/Downtown Uptown either with cash or credit card increase roughly $5 for every 20 means going north (Upper East (via the touch screen in back). blocks. See www.nyc.gov/taxi for Side, Harlem, etc), downtown Don’t forget to tip (typically more information. means going south (Soho, Lower 10% to 15%). Manhattan, etc). Inter-borough ferries Hop-on, hop-off services are offered by New York Waterway (www.nywaterway.com) and New York Water Taxi (www. nywatertaxi.com). Journey across New York Harbor on the free, commuter Staten Island Ferry (www.siferry.com).

23 TOP TIPS ¨¨Plan your route carefully. ¨¨For short trips, consider ¨¨Pay attention to Sometimes walking a hopping on a Citi Bike. ‘Downtown’ vs ‘Uptown’ few blocks can get you subway station entrances. to a faster or more direct PL A N YO U R TRI P G e tting A r o und Sometimes there are subway line, thereby saving separate entrances (usually you time in the end. across the street from one another) depending on which direction the train is going. When to Travel Etiquette Tickets & Passes ¨¨Rush hour is never just an ¨¨Have your MetroCard ready ¨¨The yellow-and-blue hour! On weekdays, from 8am before you go through the MetroCards are the swipe to 9:30am and 4:30pm to gate. New Yorkers are skilled cards used for all of NYC’s 6:30pm, trains and buses are at moving through the ticket public transportation. You can frustratingly packed. barriers without breaking purchase or add value at one of ¨¨If it’s not possible to avoid stride. several easy-to-use automated traveling at these peak times, ¨¨On subway platforms, stand machines at any station. Each allow extra time to get places to the side of the train doors ride on the subway or bus (particularly to/from the and wait for passengers to exit (except for express buses) airport). before boarding. deducts $2.75 from the card. ¨¨Hailing a cab can be difficult ¨¨On escalators, stand on the ¨¨Purchase the MetroCard on weekdays from 4pm to 5pm right hand side or use the left if itself for $1 at kiosks in subway when many drivers change you want to walk down/up. stations, and load it with credit shifts. And when it’s raining, ¨¨When walking on the ($20, which will give you eight finding an available taxi can sidewalk, think of yourself as rides and change, is a good seem a monumental challenge. a car on the street: don’t stop start). If you plan to ride a lot, short, pay attention to the buy a 7-day Unlimited Pass speed limit, and pull off to the ($31). These cards are handy side if you need to look at a for travelers – particularly if map or dig through your bag you’re jumping around town for an umbrella. to a few different places in one day. CITI BIKES ¨¨The subway kiosks take credit or ATM cards (larger To use a Citi Bike, purchase a 24-hour or seven-day access machines also take cash). pass (around $11 or $28 including tax) at any Citi Bike ki- When you need to add more osk. You will then be given a five-digit code to unlock a bike. credit, just insert your card and Return the bike to any station within 30 minutes to avoid follow the prompts (tip: when it incurring extra fees. Reinsert your credit card (you won’t asks for your zip, input ‘99999’ be charged) and follow the prompts to check out a bike if you’re not from the USA). again. You can make an unlimited number of 30-minute ¨¨Transfers from subway to check-outs during those 24 hours or seven days. bus, or bus to subway, are free. Just swipe/insert your card, and no extra charge will be deducted. For much more on getting around, see p386

24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Top Itineraries Day One Day Two Upper West Side & Upper East Side (p211) Central Park (p228) M Start at the staggering Metropolitan M Spend the morning exploring the Museum of Art. Wander through the wonders of Central Park, taking in Egyptian and Roman collections, take in Eu- the fortresslike walls of skyscrapers sur- ropean masters, then head up to the rooftop rounding the green. Start at Columbus (in summer) for a view over Central Park. Circle, then head in the northeast direction Afterwards, visit the nearby Neue Galerie passing the Central Park Zoo, the Bethes­ for a feast of German and Austrian art in a da Fountain, the Conservatory Water 1914 mansion. and Strawberry Fields on the western side. If you have the kids in tow, check out Lunch Lunch on Austrian specialties at the dinosaur skeletons at the American elegant Café Sabarsky (p223). Museum of Natural History then hit up the Loeb Boathouse to rent rowboats for a SoHo & Chinatown (p83) paddle around the lake. R Head down to SoHo for an after- Lunch Pick up supplies at Zabar’s noon of shopping along Prince and (p236) for a picnic in Central Park. Spring Sts amid crowds of tourists seeking the best brands in the world. Wander over Midtown (p175) to Chinatown’s Mulberry St, which feels worlds away from mainstream consumer- R It’s now time to uncover some of the ism, but is – in reality – only a few blocks city’s architectural wonders: Grand over. Stroll by the neighborhood’s Buddhist Central Terminal, the Chrysler Building, temples, stopping for custard tarts and the New York Public Library and Rocke­ almond ice cream. feller Center. Round off the afternoon with a visit to the city’s museum darling: MoMA. Dinner Savor soup dumplings at Joe’s Shanghai (p96), a Chinatown staple. Dinner For Broadway-goers, do an early dinner at ViceVersa (p199). Upper West Side & Central Park (p228) Midtown (p175) N If you have concert tickets, then N Spend the evening under the starry skip dinner downtown and hit up lights of Broadway, checking out a Barcibo Enoteca for a preshow glass of blockbuster show or something distinctly expertly curated Italian wine. Then it’s off to ahead of the curve at Playwrights Ho­ the Lincoln Center for opera at the Met­ rizons or Signature Theatre. Soak up ropolitan Opera House or a symphony in the Las Vegas–like atmosphere of Times Avery Fisher Hall. Later, dine at Burke & Square from the TKTS Booth, swig cock- Wills for modern Australian cuisine, fol- tails at Rum House, then climb to the top of lowed by drinks upstairs at the Manhattan the Empire State Building to wish the city Cricket Club. goodnight.

25 Day Three Day Four PL A N YO U R TRI P T o p I ti n e r a r i e s Brooklyn (p263) Lower Manhattan & the Financial District (p62) M Catch the East River Ferry over to Dumbo, and admire the magnificent M Catch the Staten Island Ferry in view of Manhattan from the lush new the early morning and watch the Brooklyn Bridge Park. Afterwards, stroll sun come up over Lower Manhattan. Then through the cobblestone streets of Dumbo, head skyward for a marvelous view from browsing bookshops, boutiques and cafes. the One World Observatory. Afterwards, Don’t miss the vintage Jane’s Carousel visit the moving National September 11 and more great views from the Empire Memorial & Museum. Fulton Ferry. Lunch Munch on gourmet goodies at the Lunch Fill up on good-value lunch spe- food-loving Chelsea Market (p148). cials at atmospheric AlMar (p283). Brooklyn (p263) West Village, Chelsea & the Meatpacking District (p130) R Travel up to the Brooklyn Mu­ seum for a look at fascinating R Head up to the Meatpacking Dis- works from Africa, the Americas and trict and visit the gorgeous new Ancient Egypt, plus excellent temporary Whitney Museum of American Art. shows. Afterwards take a stroll in Pros­ Afterwards, take the nearby steps up to the High Line for a wander along a once Dinner Partake of Brooklyn’s culinary abandoned rail line. Along the way stop for renaissance at Marlow & Sons (p279). Dinner Dine on high-end bistro fare at the pect Park, pausing for refreshments at the atmospheric Minetta Tavern (p148). scenic new Lakeside complex. snacks, coffee breaks and intriguing views over the streetscape. Brooklyn (p263) West Village, Chelsea & N Jump in a Boro Taxi up to Wil­ the Meatpacking District (p130) liamsburg, on the northern side of the borough, for oysters and bespoke N Stroll the lovely, meandering streets cocktails at Maison Premiere. Head up of Greenwich Village and delve into to rooftop bar, the Ides, for a fabulous its soul-filed roots for an evening of inti- view over the city. End the night across the mate live jazz at Mezzrow, Smalls or the street at the Brooklyn Bowl, with a side Village Vanguard. Afterwards, stop by of bowling and some groovy musical acts. for a craft cocktail at stylish Employees

26 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd If You Like... Skyline Views Le Bain Check out the downtown incredible views of Central Park views from the rooftop perch and the Midtown skyline. (p215) Brooklyn Bridge Park Brooklyn’s of the very hip Standard Hotel. East River State Park Take in newest park has wide open views (p150) an inspiring sweep of Midtown of downtown Manhattan and the Brooklyn Heights Promenade from the Williamsburg waterfront. Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. Staggering view of Manhattan, 24 (p270) (p265) hours a day. (p271) Governors Island A lush and Roosevelt Island River and Old School car-free space in the harbor with skyscraper views from Louis New York photogenic views of both Manhat- Kahn’s Franklin D Roosevelt Four tan and Lady Liberty. (p75) Freedoms Park. (p219) Coney Island An amusement Top of the Strand Go one better Metropolitan Museum Roof center that dates back to the than staring at Midtown’s mix of Garden Café & Martini Bar From early days of the 20th century; scrapers and swig a drink while late April through October, the don’t forget the hot dogs at you’re part of the view. (p201) rooftop garden at the Met offers Nathan’s Famous. (p269) ANADOLU AGENCY / GETTY IMAGES © Brooklyn Bridge Park (p265)

27 Barney Greengrass After a cheeky den of debauchery on For more top New York PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y ou L ike . . . century in the business, BG the Lower East Side. (p125) City spots, see the still serves up some of the best Employees Only No need to ­following: smoked fish in the city. (p240) eat sickening fast food after ¨¨Eating (p39) Russian & Turkish Baths midnight. Head to this West ¨¨Drinking & Nightlife (p43) Steam your stress away in this Village gastrobar, which serves ¨¨Entertainment (p46) East Village classic, now over a good late-night menu till past ¨¨Shopping (p49) 120 years old. (p129) 3am. (p149) ¨¨Sports & Activities (p53) Katz’s Delicatessen Smoked ¨¨Gay & Lesbian (p56) meat that will please even the Museums biggest kvetchers. (Map p418) Green Spaces Marie’s Crisis Show tunes and MoMA NYC’s darling museum singing patrons at this legend- has brilliantly curated spaces Central Park The city’s most ary West Village gay bar. (p151) boasting the best of the world’s famous park has more than 800 Zabar’s An emporium for all modern art. (p182) acres of rolling meadows and types of Upper West Side food- Metropolitan Museum of Art boulder-topped hillocks. (p230) a-holics since the 1930s. (p236) The most incredible encyclo- Hudson River Park Manhat- McSorley’s Old Ale House pedic museum in the Americas tan’s looking greener than ever Abraham Lincoln, Boss Tweed comes stocked with its own thanks to new parkland running and Woody Guthrie are among Egyptian temple and the coun- up its western side. (p137) the many who’ve raised a glass try’s most famous canvas of Brooklyn Bridge Park A brand or two at this sawdust-on-the- George Washington. (p214) new park lines the waterfront floor pub. (p123) Guggenheim Museum The along Dumbo, all the way to the exhibits can be uneven, but foot of Atlantic Ave. (p265) Staying Up Late the architecture is the real star The High Line A thin stripe in this Frank Lloyd Wright–­ of green with wild plants and Smalls Catch 1am ‘after hours’ designed building. (p213) surprising vantage points atop a shows at this atmospheric West Frick Collection This Gilded Age former rail line. (p132) Village jazz spot. (p154) mansion has Vermeers, El Grecos Green-Wood Cemetery A lush Veselka The go-to place when and Goyas and a stunning oasis with great views and you’ve just got to have pierogi courtyard fountain. (p218) rambling paths that dates back (homemade dumplings) and Cloisters Museum & Gardens to the 1830s. (p290) other Ukrainian fare at 4am. Medieval treasures including a Prospect Park Brooklyn’s fa- (p113) beguiling 16th-century tapestry vorite outdoor space for picnics, IFC Center Watch midnight that depicts a unicorn hunt. kite-flying, running, cycling screenings of cult classics in the (p253) and ambling amid beautifully West Village. (p155) Brooklyn Museum Ancient landscaped scenery. (p268) Chinatown A secreted scatter Egyptian treasures, a stellar Brooklyn Botanic Garden of late-night lounges tucked collection of American painting Three-season beauty with cherry behind the unassuming facades and a cutting-edge feminist arts blossoms in spring, vibrant sum- of hole-in-the-wall chow spots. center. (p267) mery blooms, and red, gold and (p85) Lower East Side Tenement yellow blazes in autumn. (p276) Verboten Get your groove on Museum Fantastic insight into at this late-night dance club in life as an immigrant during the Historic Sights Williamsburg. (p290) 19th and early 20th centuries. Rue B This tiny late-night jazz (p107) Ellis Island The gateway to den in the East Village is a great Whitney Museum of American freedom and opportunity for so spot to end the night. (p119) Art Celebrated for cutting-edge many of America’s immigrants. Slipper Room Catch a riot- contemporary and 20th-century (p66) ously fun burlesque show at this works. See future American greats at the Whitney Biennial on even-numbered years. (p136)

28 Frick Collection A rare mansion Ultimate Freemans Walk down a tiny from the Gilded Age survives Indulgences alley to find quaint cabinlike to this day as a museum on the surrounds and legions of faithful Upper East Side. (p218) brunchers. (p119) PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y ou L ike . . . Gracie Mansion A graceful Barneys The fashionista’s Little Branch You’d never guess Federal-style structure now aspirational closet comes with a that great cocktails are crafted serves as the mayor’s home. hefty price tag. (p208) inside this seemingly abandoned (p218) Dough Head to Bed-Stuy for the West Village building. (p152) Morgan Library & Museum best doughnuts on the planet Larry Lawrence Concealed Browse the exquisite interiors of (or find them at the Brooklyn drinking spot in Williamsburg the former home of industrialist Flea; p284). with an old-time vibe. (p289) JP Morgan. (p190) Pegu Club Stylish lounge, with Apothéke Apothecary turned Morris-Jumel Mansion great ambience and a welcome cocktail lounge hidden deep in Museum A Georgian-Federal lack of pretension (never mind Chinatown. (p99) structure is the oldest house in the $15 cocktails; p98). Manhattan. (p258) Brandy Library Nurse a glass of Places of Worship Lower East Side Tenement rare, amber-hued armagnac at Museum Get insight into how this gentlemanly retreat. (p79) St Patrick’s Cathedral A glori- the early immigrants lived, on an Exhale Four-handed massage, ous neo-Gothic masterpiece – eye-opening tour of a preserved beginner yoga classes, acupunc- it’s the largest cathedral in tenement. (p107) ture: you’ll find it all at this zen America. (p191) Castle Clinton This fort in Upper East Side spa. (p227) Trinity Church This gorgeous Lower Manhattan built to defend Bowery Hotel Treat yourself to Anglican church was the tallest New York Harbor during the war a luxury stay in this beautifully building in NYC in the mid- of 1812. (p74) designed downtown pad. (p336) 1800s. (p72) Venturing Off the Hidden Hangouts Cathedral Church of St John Beaten Path the Divine The largest house of Beauty & Essex Hidden behind worship in the US was begun in Flushing Go on a foodie safari a pawnshop facade is an en- 1892 – and still isn’t completely deep in the heart of Queens and chanting drinking den. (p123) finished (hence its nickname, St browse New York’s biggest and Bathtub Gin Slide behind a John the Unfinished; p248). best Chinatown. (p306) false wall at the back of a mod- Temple Emanu-El A Roman- Inwood Hill Park It’s part est coffee shop for Prohibition- esque structure with gilded ceil- of Manhattan, but it doesn’t chic styling and retro cocktails. ings serves as one of New York’s feel like it – this park remains (p153) most beautiful synagogues. wonderfully wild. (p256) Mulberry Project An unassum- (p219) Queens Museum Excellent ing set of stairs leads to the Plymouth Church This Brook- exhibits without the fanfare and swank cocktail laboratory of the lyn Heights place of worship was crowds of some of Manhattan’s international owners and their a center of abolitionist activity other museum spaces. (p307) coterie of server-friends. (p99) in the 19th century. (p278) Smith & Mills Push the Dyckman Farmhouse Museum unmarked door to find a kooky Eldridge Street Synagogue Manhattan’s last surviving industrial interior (think 1900s Glittering after a multi-million- Dutch farmhouse. (p256) factory) and smooth libations. dollar restoration, the hallowed Gowanus An old industrial canal (p80) hall is now a museum space. popular with urban decay types (p112) (and the Environmental Protec- tion Agency; p275).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 29 Month by Month TOP EVENTS with a bit of leg nudity on 5 Winter Tribeca Film Festival, public transit. Anyone can April join in, and there’s usu- Restaurant Week Cherry Blossom ally an after-party for the From late January to early Festival, April or May cheeky participants. Check February, celebrate the SummerStage, June to the website for meeting dreary weather with slash- August times and details. cut meal deals at some Independence Day, July of the city’s finest eating Village Halloween 3 Winter Jazzfest establishments during New Parade, October York’s Winter Restaurant In mid-January, this four- Week, which actually runs January day music fest brings over for about three weeks. A 100 acts playing at nearly three-course lunch costs a dozen venues around around $26 ($40 for din- the city. Most of the action ner). happens around the West Village. March The winter doldrums arrive February After months of freezing following the build-up of temperatures and thick Christmas and New Year’s The odd blizzard winter coats, the odd Eve. Despite the long and below-freezing warm spring day appears nights, New Yorkers take temperatures make and everyone rejoices – advantage of the frosty February a good time to though it’s usually weather, with outdoor ice stay indoors nursing a followed by a week of skating and weekend ski drink or a warm meal at a sub-zero drear as winter trips to the Catskills. cozy bar or bistro. lingers on. 2 New Year’s z Lunar (Chinese) z St Patrick’s Day Swim New Year Festival Day Parade What better way to greet One of the biggest Chinese A massive audience, rowdy the new year than with New Year celebrations in and wobbly from cups an icy dip in the Atlantic? the country, this display of green beer, lines Fifth Join the Coney Island Polar of fireworks and danc- Ave on March 17 for this Bear Club for this annual ing dragons draws mobs popular parade of bagpipe brrrr-fest. of thrillseekers into the blowers, sparkly floats streets of Chinatown. The and clusters of Irish-lovin’ 2 No Pants date of Chinese New Year politicians. The parade, fluctuates from year to which was first held here in Subway Ride year, but typically falls in 1762, is the city’s oldest and On the second Sunday in early February. largest. January, some 4000 New Yorkers spice things up

30 2 TD Bank ones in tow. Other parks throughout the city also April Five Boro Bike Tour host events. May is Bike Month, featur- Spring finally appears: 3ing two-wheelin’ tours, optimistic alfresco joints Bryant Park parties and other events for have a sprinkling of pedal-pushing New Yorkers. Summer Film Festival PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month streetside chairs as the TD Bank Five Boro Bike June through August, Bry- city squares overflow with Tour, the main event, sees ant Park hosts free Monday- bright tulips and blossom- thousands of cyclists hit the night outdoor screenings covered trees. pavement for a 42-mile ride, of classic Hollywood films, z Tribeca much of it on roads closed which kick off after sun- to traffic or on waterfront down. Arrive early (the Film Festival paths through each of the lawn area opens at 5pm and Created in response to the city’s five boroughs. folks line up by 4pm). tragic events of Septem- ber 11, Robert De Niro’s z Fleet Week z NYC Pride downtown film festival For one week at the end of Gay Pride Month culminates has quickly become a star May, Manhattan resembles in a major march down in the indie movie circuit. a 1940s movie set as clus- Fifth Ave on the last Sunday You’ll have to make some ters of uniformed sailors of the month. NYC Pride tough choices: over 150 go ‘on the town’ to look for is a five-hour spectacle of films are screened during adventures. For non-swabby dancers, drag queens, gay the 10-day fest. visitors, this is a chance to police officers, leathermen, take free tours of ships that lesbian soccer-moms and have arrived from around representatives of just about the globe. See them docked every other queer scene May off Manhattan (around Mid- under the rainbow. April showers bring town) and Brooklyn (just z Mermaid Parade May flowers in the form south of Brooklyn Bridge Park’s pier 6). of brilliant bursts of Celebrating sand, sea and blossoms adorning the the beginning of summer flowering trees all around is this quirky afternoon the city. The weather is June parade (www.coneyisland. warm and mild without com). It’s a flash of glitter the unpleasant humidity Summer’s definitely here and glamour, as elaborately of summer. and locals emerge from costumed folks display their z Cherry of their office cubicles to fishy finery along the Coney relax in the city’s green Island boardwalk. It’s even Blossom Festival spaces. Parades roll down more fun to take part (all in the busiest streets and costume are welcome). Held Known in Japanese as Sakura Matsuri, this an- portable movie screens are on the last Saturday of the nual tradition, held on one strung up in several parks. month. weekend in late April or 3 SummerStage July early May, celebrates the magnificent flowering of Central Park’s Summer- As the city swelters, locals cherry trees in the Brook- Stage, which runs from flee to beachside escapes lyn Botanic Garden. It’s June through August, on Long Island. It’s a complete with entertain- features an incredible busy month for tourism, ment and activities (taiko lineup of music and dance however, as holidaying drumming, folk dancing, throughout the summer. North Americans and origami workshops, ikeba- Django Django, Femi Europeans fill the city. na flower displays, samurai Kuti, Shuggie Otis and the sword showmanship), plus Martha Graham Dance 3 Shakespeare refreshments and awe- Company are among recent inspiring beauty. standouts. Most events are in the Park free. There’s also a Summer- The much-loved Shake- Stage Kids program just speare in the Park pays in case you’ve got the little

(Below) Christmas tree lighting ceremony, Rockefeller Center (p186) 31 (Bottom) St Patrick’s Day Parade tribute to the Bard, with PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Monthfree performances in Cen- tral Park. The catch? You’ll THEO WARGO / GETTY IMAGES © have to wait hours in line to score tickets, or win them in the online lottery (there’s also an in-person lottery on performance days at noon at the Public Theater). Tickets are given out at noon on show days; arrive no later than 10am for a seat. z Independence Day America’s Independence Day is celebrated on the 4th of July with dramatic fire- works over the East River, starting at 9pm. Good viewing spots include the waterfronts of the Lower East Side and Williams- burg, Brooklyn, or any high rooftop or east-facing Man- hattan apartment. JEWEL SAMAD / GETTY IMAGES © August Thick waves of summer heat slide between skyscrapers as everyone heads to the seashore nearby or gulps cool blasts of air-conditioning when stuck in the city. Myriad outdoor events and attractions add life to the languid urban heat. z FringeNYC The annual mid-August theater festival, FringeNYC, presents two weeks of per- formances by companies from all over the world. It’s the best way to catch the edgiest, wackiest and most creative up-and-comers around. September Labor Day officially marks the end of the Hampton’s share-house season as the blistering heat of summer

32 z Open House z Thanksgiving fades to more tolerable PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month levels. As locals return New York Day Parade to work, the cultural The country’s largest archi- Massive helium-filled bal- calendar ramps up. tecture and design event, loons soar overhead, high- Open House New York school marching bands 3 Electric Zoo features architect-­led tours, rattle their snares and mil- plus lectures, design work- lions of onlookers bundle Celebrated over the Labor shops, studio visits and up with scarves and coats Day weekend, Electric site-specific performances to celebrate Thanksgiving Zoo is New York’s elec- all over the city. (the fourth Thursday in tronic music festival held in November) with Macy’s sprawling Randall’s Island z Village world-famous 2.5-mile-long Park. Past headliners have parade. included Moby, Afrojack, Halloween Parade David Guetta, Martin October 31 brings riotous z Rockefeller Solveig and The Chemical fun to the city, as New Yor- Brothers. kers don their wildest cos- Center Christmas tumes for a night of revelry. Tree Lighting 3 BAM’s Next See the most outrageous Ceremony displays at the Village Hal- The flick of a switch ignites Wave Festival loween Parade that runs up the massive Christmas tree Celebrated for over 30 Sixth Ave in the West Vil- in Rockefeller Center (p186), years, the Brooklyn Acad- lage. It’s fun to watch, but officially ushering in the emy of Music’s Next Wave even better to join in. holiday season. Bedecked Festival (p288), which runs with over 25,000 lights, it through December, show- November is NYC’s unofficial Yuletide cases world-class avant- headquarters and a must- garde theater, music and As the leaves tumble, see for anyone visiting the dance. light jackets are replaced city during December. October by wool and down. A December headliner marathon is Winter’s definitely here, Brilliant bursts of orange, tucked into the final days but there’s plenty of red and gold fill the trees of prehibernation weather, holiday cheer to warm the in Central and Prospect then families gather to spirit. Fairy lights adorn Parks as temperatures give thanks. most buildings and Fifth cool and alfresco cafes Ave department stores finally shutter their 3 New York (as well as Macy’s) create windows. Along with May, elaborate worlds within October is one of the Comedy Festival their storefront windows. most pleasant and scenic Funny-makers take the city months to visit NYC. by storm during the New z New Year’s Eve York Comedy Festival with 3 Blessing of the stand-up sessions, improv The ultimate place to nights and big-ticket shows ring in the New Year in Animals hosted by the likes of Ro- the northern hemisphere, In honor of the Feast Day sie O’Donnell and Ricky Times Square swarms with of St Francis, which falls Gervais. millions of gatherers who early in the month, pet come to stand squashed owners flock to the grand 2 New York City together like boxed sar- Cathedral Church of St dines, swig booze, freeze in John the Divine for the Marathon subarctic temperatures, wit- annual Blessing of the Ani- Held in the first week of ness the annual dropping mals with their sidekicks – November, this annual 26- of the ball made entirely poodles, lizards, parrots, mile run draws thousands of Waterford Crystal and llamas, you name it – in of athletes from around chant the ‘10…9…8…’ count- tow. It’s a wild and wonder- the world, and many more down in perfect unison. ful afternoon for partici- excited viewers line the pants and onlookers. streets to cheer the run- ners on.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 33 With Top Attractions Kids For many kids, some of New York City’s top New York City has loads of attractions are a world of fun. activities for young ones, including imaginative Wildlife playgrounds and leafy parks The city has a number of zoos. The best, where kids can run free, plus lots by far, is the Bronx Zoo (www.bronxzoo.com; of kid-friendly museums and sights. Other highs: carousel rides, 2300 Southern Blvd; tickets adult/child $26/19, puppet shows, and noshing at suggested donation Wed; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to markets around town. 5:30pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, to 4:30pm Nov-Mar; b 2, 5 to West Farms Sq-E Tremont Ave). If you’re pressed for time, the zoos in Central Park and Prospect Park are great for short visits. Statue of Liberty The boat ride to Lady Liberty (%877-523- 9849; www.statuecruises.com; adult/child from $18/9; hvaries, usually 8:30am-5pm; b4/5 to Bowling Green; R to Whitehall St; 1 to South Ferry) offers the opportunity to chug around New York Harbor and get to know an icon. On Top of the World A glass-roofed elevator leads to the Top of the Rock (p191), a lookout that offers glit- tering views of New York. Coney Island Hot dogs. Ice cream. Amusement-park rides. Coney Island (p269) is just the ticket if you want some low-brow entertainment. XINHUA NEWS AGENCY / GETTY IMAGES © Best Museums American Museum of Natural History (p235) The American Museum of Natural History (p235), with its dinosaurs, marine world, planetarium and IMAX films, should not be missed. Other big museums – the Met- ropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Modern Art and the Guggenheim Museum – all have kids’ programs, but many smaller institutions are even more appealing for young visitors. Toddler Time For tots aged one to five, hit the Children’s Museum of the Arts (p89) in West SoHo and the Brooklyn Children’s Museum (p277) in Crown Heights. Both have story times, art classes and craft hours. Five & Over Bigger kids can clamber on vintage sub- way cars at the New York Transit Museum (p271), slide down a pole at the New York City Fire Museum (p87) and impose law

34 NOT FOR PARENTS For an insight into New York aimed directly at kids, pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s Not for Parents: New York. Perfect for children aged eight and up, it opens up a world of intriguing stories and fas- cinating facts about New York people, places, history and culture. PLAN YOUR TRIP With Kids and order in a miniature cruiser at the Market Snacks New York City Police Museum. Book ’em. Markets around NYC are great snack spots, Best Parks & Playgrounds particularly Brooklyn Flea (p280) and the Chelsea Market (p148). Central Park Heckscher playground, near Seventh Ave Best Bets for a Rainy Day and Central Park South, is the biggest and best of Central Park’s (p230) 21 playgrounds. Craft Drop in to create ceramic masterpieces right Prospect Park on the spot at the Craft Studio (Map p434; Brooklyn’s hilly 585-acre Prospect Park (p268) has abundant amusement for kids, %212-831-6626; www.craftstudionyc.com; 1657 including a zoo and an ice-skating rink. Third Ave btwn 92nd & 93rd Sts; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; c; b6 to 96th St). Brooklyn Bridge Park Hit the fun water park in the summer on Play Pier 6 and nosh on pizza at waterfront Let litte ones let off some steam at the Fornino (p266). Further north are the colorful indoor playground, Little Athletes grassy hills of Pier 1 and Jane’s Carousel. Exploration Center (Map p424; %212-336- Hudson River Park 6500, ext 0; www.chelseapiers.com; Chelsea Coursing along Manhattan’s western side, Piers, Twelfth Ave at 23rd St; single session $12; this park (p137) offers loads of kiddy excite- h9:30am-noon & 1-5pm ; c; bC/E to 23rd St). ment, including mini-golf near Moore St and a fun playground near West St. Art Visit the Art Farm in the City (Map p434; The High Line NYC’s celebrated elevated green space %212-410-3117; www.theartfarms.org; 419 E 91st St (p132) has food vendors, water features btwn First & York Aves; c; b4/5/6 to 86th St) for and warm-weather family events. art supplies, craft sessions and a petting zoo. Riverside Park Keep it Cheap This park (p235) on the Upper West Side has a bicycle trail with views of the Hudson The Staten Island Ferry (p82) is free and River. Take a break at the River Run Play- offers spectacular views of New York Har- ground (at W 83rd St). bor and the Statue of Liberty. South Street Seaport The subway can be a great adventure. The Imagination Playground (p75) features You can clatter across the bridges on the J, oversize foam building blocks, allowing M or Z lines (Williamsburg Bridge) or B, D, kids to construct their own play spaces. N or Q lines across the Manhattan Bridge. For views of the Brooklyn Bridge and Low- er Manhattan, take the N or Q train. Kid-Friendly Theater Online Resources Tiny Puppetworks (p298) in Brooklyn’s Baby Sitters’ Guild (www.babysittersguild.com) Park Slope has amusing weekend puppet Mommy Poppins (www.mommypoppins.com) shows throughout the year. Time Out New York Kids (www.timeout.com/ new-york-kids)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 35 Like a STU99 / GETTY IMAGES © Dos & Don’ts: On the Street Local ¨¨Hail a cab only if the roof light is on. If it’s New Yorkers have developed not lit, the cab is taken, so put your arm down winning strategies when it comes already! to nightlife, dining out and ¨¨You needn’t obey ‘walk’ signs – simply cross partaking of the city’s cultural the street when there isn’t oncoming traffic. calendar. From long weekend ¨¨When negotiating pedestrian traffic on the brunches to leisurely spring days sidewalk, think of yourself as a vehicle – don’t in the park, there are plenty of stop short, follow the speed of the crowd around ways to go local – without having you and pull off to the side if you need to take to pay those ridiculous rents. out your map or umbrella. Most New Yorkers are respectful of personal space, but they will Ice skating, Central Park (p230) bump into you – and not apologize – if you get in the way. ¨¨When boarding the subway, wait until the passengers disembark, then be aggressive enough when you hop on so that the doors don’t close in front of you. ¨¨In New York you wait ‘on line’ instead of ‘in line’. ¨¨Oh, and it’s How-sten Street, not Hew-sten. Eating & Drinking The Culture of Brunch Brunch in New York is deeply woven into the city’s social fabric, much like teatime for British royals. It typically happens between 11am and 4pm on weekends (though some places, especially in Brook- lyn, have begun serving brunch every day). The meal provides a perfect setting for friends to catch up on the week’s events and the weekend’s shenanigans over dishes constructed of breakfast materials and an indiscriminate mix of cocktails or coffee. The Weekends Are for Amateurs New Yorkers tend to avoid the big clubs, packed bars and certain neighborhoods (East Village, Lower East Side) on the weekends when you find yourself among a high proportion of less sophisticated types (some might unkindly use the word ‘douchebags’). Instead, weeknights can be great for going out – with fewer crowds, fewer of the aforementioned types, and more creative folk who don’t work the typi- cal nine-to-five (actors, writers, artists). Plus, you’ll be able to score happy-hour and early-in-the-week specials.

36 PL A N YO U R TRI P L i k e a L ocal Bar Food loween Parade (p32) or the summertime Many of New York’s best bars blur the Mermaid Parade (p30) in Coney Island. boundary between eating and drinking. Sign up for an organized race in the city Slide onto a bar stool, pick up a menu, and (New York Road Runners stages dozens of you’ll often be faced with some surpris- annual runs). Take a rock-climbing class ing dining options. That could be oysters at Brooklyn Boulders (p301) or The Cliffs at the bar, small sharing plates (seared (p316) in Queens. Polish up those old po- scallops, sliders, truffle-oil fries), cheese ems and take the stage at open-mic night boards and charcuterie or anything else – at Nuyorican Poets Cafe (p126), or if there’s roasted beet salads, gourmet sandwiches, music in you, try the open-mic at Side- braised artichokes, rack of lamb. When walk Cafe (p125). Whatever your passion planning a meal, don’t limit yourself to a – chess, hip-hop, drawing, architecture, sit-down restaurant: you can also eat and beer-making – you’ll find it in NYC, and be drink your way around a neighborhood by surrounded by plenty of like minds. stopping in at gastropubs. New York’s Twitterati Seasonal Activities Check out our favorite members of New Winter York’s Twitterati, who are always tweeting Even dreary winter weather brings its about the city’s latest musts: delights – namely, ice skating! Beginning Everything NYC (@EverythingNYC) Hunting down in November or December, the city’s skat- the best things to see, do and eat in the Big Apple. ing rinks provide ample amusement (and Pete Wells (@pete_wells) Restaurant critic of the a good prequel to fireside drinks in a New York Times. toasty bar afterwards). Locals skip tourist- Paper (@papermagazine) Art, culture and music swarmed Rockefeller Center and Bryant news. Park and instead head to Central Park, Mc- Guest of a Guest (@guestofaguest) In-the-know Carren Park or Prospect Park for skating. info on NYC parties, social and fashion scenes. Gothamist (@gothamist) News and curiosities Spring in NYC. The city’s blossoming parks are the place Hyperallergic (@Hyperallergic) Tweets from to be for spring picnics, sun-drenched NYC’s favorite art blogazine. strolls and lazy days lounging on the grass. Colson Whitehead (@colsonwhitehead) Manhat- Top spots for flower-gazing: the New tan native, novelist and New Yorker contributor. York Botanical Garden and the Brooklyn Paul Goldberger (@paulgoldberger) Pulitzer Botanic Garden. The latter hosts a lovely Prize–winning architecture critic. Cherry Blossom Festival, much adored by Tom Colicchio (@tomcolicchio) Celebrity chef Brooklynites. and owner of the popular Craft franchise. Sam Sifton (@samsifton) Food editor at the New Summer York Times. Summer is the time for free open-air events: film screenings in Bryant Park, street festivals around town, and concerts in Central Park, Hudson River Park, Pros- pect Park and other green spaces around the city. Joining In Fall In fall the cultural calendar ramps up Truth be told, watching a parade can be again as the city’s premier performing arts a pretty dull affair. It’s much more fun halls open their seasons (which run from to take part. Along those lines, there are September through May) and galleries kick many ways you can join in the action. Don off their new shows (Thursday night, inci- an outrageous costume for the Village Hal- dentally, is when the art openings happen).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 37 For Free Live Music, Theater & Dance The Big Apple isn’t the world’s In summer there are scores of free events cheapest destination. Nevertheless, around town. From June through early there are many ways to kick open September, SummerStage (p234) features the NYC treasure chest without over 100 free performances at 17 parks spending a dime – free concerts, around the city, including Central Park. theater and film screenings, pay- You’ll have to be tenacious to get tickets what-you-wish nights at legendary to Shakespeare in the Park (p234), held museums, city festivals, free ferry also in Central Park, but it’s well worth the rides, plus loads of green space. effort. Top actors like Meryl Streep and Al Pacino have taken the stage in years past. Prospect Park has its own venerable open- air summer concert and events series: Celebrate Brooklyn (www.bricartsmedia.org/ performing-arts/celebrate-brooklyn). Summertime also brings free film screenings and events to the water’s edge during the River to River Festival (www. rivertorivernyc.com; hJun) at Hudson River Park in Manhattan and at Brooklyn Bridge Park. Another great option for film lovers is the free Bryant Park Summer Film Festival (p30) screenings on Monday nights. A few places offer free music through- out the year. BAMcafé (p297) in Brooklyn has free concerts (world music, R&B, jazz, rock) on select Friday and Saturday nights. In Harlem, Marjorie Eliot (p262) opens her home for free jazz jams on Sunday. SIVAN ASKAYO / GETTY IMAGES © On the Water The free Staten Island Ferry (p388) provides magical views of the Statue of Liberty, and you can enjoy it with a cold beer (available on the boat). While it’s not free, for just $4 you can sail from Lower Manhattan across to Brooklyn, Queens or up to 34th St on the East River Ferry (p388) – a great alternative to the subway. On summer weekends, you can also take a free ferry over to Governors Island (p75), a car-free oasis with priceless views. For a bit more adventure, take out a free kayak, available in the Hudson River Park, Brooklyn Bridge Park and Red Hook (p301). Cloisters Museum & Gardens (p253) TV Tapings Some of America’s top evening shows are taped right here in New York City. The Late Show with Stephen Colbert, The Daily Show with Trevor Noah and The Tonight

38 PL A N YO U R TRI P F o r F ree Show starring Jimmy Fallon all give out Free Museums & Sites free tickets to their shows. Go online to reserve seats. Always Free Walking Tours ¨¨The High Line (p132) ¨¨National September 11 Memorial (p72) One of the best ways to experience the city ¨¨National Museum of the American Indian is to have a local show you around. The (p72) highly recommended Big Apple Greeter ¨¨Hispanic Society of America Museum & (p388) provides free tours by locals who Library (p256) love showing off their neighborhoods. ¨¨Museum at FIT (p193) ¨¨Hamilton Grange (p252) For DIY adventures, check out our ­ ¨¨American Folk Art Museum (p235) own walking tours of the following ¨¨Nicholas Roerich Museum (p236) neighborhoods: ¨¨Lower Manhattan (p78) Admission by Donation ¨¨Chinatown (p88) ¨¨SoHo (p100) ¨¨Metropolitan Museum of Art (p214) ¨¨East Village (p117) ¨¨American Museum of Natural History (p235) ¨¨Greenwich Village (p138) ¨¨Cloisters Museum & Gardens (p253) ¨¨Chelsea (p142) ¨¨Brooklyn Museum (p267) ¨¨Union Square (p172) ¨¨Museum of the City of New York (p222) ¨¨Midtown (p198) ¨¨Brooklyn Historical Society (p273) ¨¨Upper East Side (p224) ¨¨Harlem (p257) Free or Pay-What-You-Wish on ¨¨Willliamsburg (p272) Certain Days ¨¨Brooklyn Heights (p278) ¨¨South Brooklyn (p280) ¨¨MoMA (p182) 4–8pm Friday ¨¨Guggenheim Museum (p213) 5:45–7:45pm Wi-Fi Saturday ¨¨Whitney Museum of American Art (p136) If you’re out for the day and need to get 7–10pm Friday online, you’ll find free wi-fi in public ¨¨Neue Galerie (p218) 6–8pm first Friday of parks such as the High Line, Bryant Park, month Battery Park, Tompkins Square Park and ¨¨Frick Collection (p218) 11am–1pm Sunday Union Square Park. Most cafes and many ¨¨New Museum of Contemporary Art (p108) restaurants also offer free wi-fi. 7–9pm Thursday ¨¨New-York Historical Society (p235) 6–8pm NEED TO KNOW Friday Handy websites for tracking down ¨¨Jewish Museum (p219) 5–8pm Thursday and free and discounted events in the Saturday city include Club Free Time (www. ¨¨Rubin Museum of Art (p137) 6–10pm Friday clubfreetime.com) and Free in NYC ¨¨Asia Society & Museum (p219) 6–9pm Friday (www.freeinnyc.net). These have daily ¨¨Japan Society (p190) 6–9pm Friday listings of free tours, concerts, work- ¨¨Studio Museum in Harlem (p250) Sunday shops, talks, art openings, book read- ¨¨MoMA PS1 (p304) Free with your MoMA ticket ings and more. ¨¨National September 11 Memorial Museum (p68) 5–8pm Tuesday

39 MIRIAM LUCIA / 500PX © Gansevoort Market (p148), Chelsea Eating From inspired iterations of world cuisine to quintessentially local nibbles, New York City’s dining scene is infinite, all-consuming and a proud testament to the kaleidoscope of citizens that call the city home. So go ahead, take a bite out of the Big Apple – we promise you won’t be sorry. To Market, to Market District and a trio of food halls at Brookfield Don’t let the concrete streets and buildings Place (p77), in Lower Manhattan. fool you – New York City has a thriving greens scene that comes in many shapes and sizes. Many neighborhoods in NYC have their own At the top of your list should be the Chelsea greenmarket. One of the biggest is the Union Market (p134), which is packed with gour- Square Greenmarket (p174), open four days a met goodies of all kinds – both shops (where week throughout the year. Check Grow NYC you can assemble picnics) and food stands (www.grownyc.org/greenmarket) for a list of the (where you can eat on-site). Many other food other 50-plus markets around the city. halls have opened in recent years, including Gansevoort Market (p148) in the Meatpacking Out in Brooklyn, the best weekend mar- kets for noshers (rather than cook-at-home types) are Smorgasburg (p285), with over 100 craft food vendors (there’s also a smaller seasonal Smorgasburg in the Southstreet Sea-

40 Eating by Neighborhood PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING Hudson RiverHarlem & Upper Manhattan Comfort cuisine meets global flavours (p258) ú# Upper West Side & Central Park ú#Central Park A few top eats tucked betwebelnocakpsar(tpm23e6n)t000000000000000 #ú #ú ú#ú# #úSee-anadn-bdetN-hsWeeeweeMnAsmtberaVeubrtiniiplsccltaaahrnogcsskdepFaaoi,innnrtClsedgin,hdowgDeilsndilniis(-sne0000spetgc1bra,00000000000000000h3aicco9r&o00000000000000000sot)cl0000000000000kdtMea00000000000000liilis-00000000000000dl(ittp000eo1r9wa00000005tne)00000000000mEUDv00000000eniescrit00000coyLratanih00000sUdcciSntiatpeogfqs&epp-fuwecraGoaurrhmklrrotEseau-iMald,rmueseiFncte(clbhparhuSe2Actrlmi2iigycndmr2eeu-oe)sruernstelttass(ircparu1el6lldtQc6ur)ruaavelibenognrsso(upg3h0t9h)at 000000 East Village & Lower East Side #úSoHo & Chinatown Unpretentious spectrum of eats, from Asia to the Middle East (p113) 4#ú ú#4 ú#gourmCfeeaDtlsetiFhbrhrtLiroe-eioctnnyhwFac-ebhcieanlhmepraefafnMnorhoockaoodiedtnaitelsphleplhsDaaoa,ctitnhestsgiatp(aorpnncui00000000007dcat&6sfta0000000000000e)(sp00000000000000a9n00000000000d)000000000 NMeicighheblBionrr-hsotooaorkddlpyininzinzgeraiansd,000000 retro–New American fare (p277) 440000000000000 44000000000000 port), and the Brooklyn Flea Market (p280), various routes, stopping in designated which has several dozen stalls. zones throughout the city – namely around Union Square, Midtown and the Financial Also popular are high-end market-cum- District – so if you’re looking for a particu- grocers like Eataly (p166) and Dean & lar grub wagon, it’s best to follow them on DeLuca (p100), where fresh produce and Twitter. Here are a few of our favorites: ready-made fare are given the five-star ¨¨Kimchi Taco (www.twitter.com/kimchitruck) treatment. Whole Foods is another big Mouth-watering combo of Korean beef served draw, particularly its ecofriendly, locavore- in tacos. focused Brooklyn outpost (p284). ¨¨Red Hook Lobster Pound (twitter.com/ lobstertruckny) You can’t go wrong with And, in recent market gossip, at the time succulent lobster rolls. fo research, food-show host Anthony Bour- ¨¨Calexico Cart (www.calexico.net/locations) dain was planning to open a massive inter- Hearty rich burritos, tacos and quesadillas. national market (with more than 100 stalls) ¨¨Souvlaki GR (www.souvlakigr.com/location/ on a pier facing the Hudson River. Look for food-truck) A favorite for lovers of Greek fare. it on Pier 57 (off W 15th St) in 2017. ¨¨Van Leeuwen Ice Cream (www.twitter.com/ VLAIC) Imaginative flavors of delectable (and Food Trucks & Carts addictive!) ice cream. Skip the bagel- and hot-dog-vending food carts. These days, there’s a new mobile crew in town dishing up high-end treats and unique fusion fare. The trucks ply

41 Tours & Courses NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING There’s no better way to engage with the city’s infinite dining scene than to link up Price Guide with a savvy local for a food tour or cooking The following price ranges refer to a main class. Check out the following winners: dish, exclusive of tax and tip: $ under $15 ¨¨Institute of Culinary Education (p82) $$ $15–25 America’s largest cooking school offers $$$ more than $25 accessible, top-notch cooking courses, as well as foodie tours. Websites ¨¨Urban Oyster (www.urbanoyster.com) High- ¨¨Yelp (www.yelp.com) Comprehensive quality, themed foodie tours mostly in Lower user-generated content and reviews. Manhattan and Brooklyn. ¨¨Open Table (www.opentable.com) ¨¨Scott’s Pizza Tours (p282) Offbeat and Click-and-book reservation service for always fun, Scott promises to unveil all of the many restaurants. secrets of the city’s pizza-pie scene. ¨¨Tasting Table (www.tastingtable. ¨¨Joshua M Bernstein (www. com) Sign up for handy news blasts joshuambernstein.com) Respected food blogger about the latest and greatest. and journalist who leads tours with a special focus on craft- and home-brewed beer. New Yorkers are famous for offering their ¨¨Pizza A Casa (www.pizzaacasa.com) opinion, so why not capitalize on their Much-loved pie school on the Lower East Side taste-bud experiences and click through specializing in rolling and decorating dough. scores of websites catering to the discern- ¨¨Chopsticks & Marrow (www.chopsticks ing diner. Some of our favorite blog-style andmarrow.com) Fantastic Queens food blog by rags include: local Joe DiStefano, who also runs food tours. ¨¨Eater (ny.eater.com) Food news and ¨¨League of Kitchens (www.leagueofkitchens. restaurant round-ups. com) Cooking classes taught by immigrant ¨¨Serious Eats (www.newyork.serious women in their own kitchens, in Brooklyn and eats.com) Restaurant gossip and arti- Queens. cles on the cuisine scene. ¨¨Grub Street (http://newyork.grub Vegetarians & Vegans street.com) In-the-know articles on NYC Though the city’s herbivore scene has long dining. lagged behind that of West Coast cities, and ¨¨Restaurant Girl (www.restaurantgirl. was for years mocked by serious foodies, com) Blogger and restaurant critic eat- many former naysayers are beginning to ing her way around the city. come around. That’s thanks in part to the local-food movement, which has hit NYC Tipping like a ton of potatoes, as well as a slow but New Yorkers tip between 18% and 20% of steady trickle of new eateries that have en- the final price of the meal. For takeaway, ticed skeptics by injecting big doses of cool it’s polite to drop a few dollars in the tip jar. ambience – and top-notch wine, liquor and dessert options – into the mix. But herbi- Reservations vore oases also dot the entire landscape, Popular restaurants abide by one of two and even the most meat-heavy four-star rules: either they take reservations and restaurants are figuring out the lure of leg- you need to plan in advance (weeks or ume; the market-inspired le potager section months early for the real treasures) or on the menu at Café Boulud (p225) offers they only seat patrons on a first-come ba- highbrow veggie dishes, while on Monday sis, in which case you should arrive when it night Dovetail (p240) hosts a decadent prix- opens, and eat early. Otherwise, you might fixe vegetarian feast. be looking at a two-hour wait. Vegans have much to celebrate with and elegant Cafe Blossom (p149), with loca- the arrival of excellent eateries serving up tions in Chelsea and elsewhere. guilt-free goodness all around town. Top choices include Champs (p277), which serves up comfort fare out in Williamsburg,

42 PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING Lonely Planet’s $$$ Cookshop (p145) Great indoor- Top Choices outdoor dining spot in west Eleven Madison Park (p168) Chelsea. Pye Boat Noodle (p309) Arresting, cutting-edge cuisine Peaches (p284) Southern per- Outstanding Thai cooking in a laced with unexpected whimsy. fection in less-traveled Bed-Stuy. quaint country-house setting Blue Hill (p147) A West Village Cafe Mogador (p115) An icon of in Astoria. classic using ingredients the East Village brunch scene. Battersby (p285) Farm-to- sourced straight from the as- table brilliance on Brooklyn’s sociated farm upstate. Best Bakeries restaurant-lined Smith St. Degustation (p116) A tiny East Gramercy Tavern (p167) Prime Village eatery where you can Dough (p284) Probably NYC’s produce, culinary finesse and watch the chefs create edible best doughnut, in Brooklyn. the choice of bustling tavern or works of art. Four & Twenty Blackbirds fine-dining den. (p285) Heavenly slices of home- RedFarm (p147) Savvy Sino- Best by Cuisine made pies in Gowanus. fusion dishes boast bold flavors Dominique Ansel Kitchen but it doesn’t take itself too Asian (p143) Sweet magnificence from seriously. NYC’s most famous pastry chef Dovetail (p240) Simplicity is key Uncle Boons (p92) Zesty, in the West Village. at this Upper West Side stunner – Michelin-starred Thai with a Arcade Bakery (p76) One of the vegetarians unite on Monday for generous serve of fun in Nolita. city’s finest almond croissants a divine tasting menu. Zenkichi (p279) Candlelit culi- in a Tribeca setting. Foragers City Table (p147) A nary temple of exquisite sushi in triumph of farm-to-table cooking Williamsburg. Best for with flavorful sustainable recipes. Lan Larb (p97) Real-deal Old-School NYC northeastern Thai in a cheap and cheery hole in the wall on the edge of Chinatown. Best by Budget Italian Barney Greengrass (p240) Perfect plates of smoked salmon $ Rosemary’s (p145) A beautifully and sturgeon for over 100 years. designed West Village spot with Russ & Daughters (p118) A Taïm (p143) Outstanding falafel memorable cooking. celebrated Jewish deli in the sandwiches at downtown Roman’s (p284) Changing sea- Lower East Side. locations. sonal menu of Italian invention Zabar’s (p236) Upper West Side Berg’n (p284) Market with craft in Fort Greene. store selling gourmet, kosher brews in Crown Heights. Morandi (p145) A West Village foods since the 1930s. El Rey (p116) Daring combina- gem that invites lingering. El Margon (p199) Unfussy, tions at a locavore haunt in the unchanged Cuban lunch counter Lower East Side. Vegetarian in Midtown. Le Grainne (p149) Good-value French restaurant in Chelsea. Butcher’s Daughter (p92) Inven- Best Upscale tive vegetarian menu in Nolita. Market Groceries $$ Hangawi (p195) Meat-free (and shoe-free) Korean restaurant in Sahadi’s (p285) Assemble Upstate (p115) A seafood feast Koreatown. a picnic of Middle Eastern awaits in the East Village. Champs (p277) Comfort-food temptations. Jeffrey’s Grocery (p145) Much- diner in East Williamsburg with Eataly (p166) A mecca for lovers loved West Village neighborhood outstanding vegan plates. of Italian food. spot. Whole Foods, Brooklyn (p284) ViceVersa (p199) Elegant Italian Best Brunch Ecofriendly shopping in the re- in the shadow of the Theater invented Gowanus neighborhood. District. Estela (p92) Seasonal plates in Union Square Greenmarket Cooklyn (p286) Small but a buzzing Nolita wine bar. (p174) Delicious veggies and beautifully executed menu in Rabbit Hole (p281) Excellent bakery items from upstate. Propsect Heights. brunch plates served daily till 5pm at this Williamsburg gem.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 43 JENA CUMBO / GETTY IMAGES © Cocktail making Drinking & Nightlife Considering that ‘Manhattan’ is thought to be a derivation of the Munsee word manahactanienk (‘place of general inebriation’), it shouldn’t be surprising that New York lives up to its nickname: ‘the city that never sleeps.’ You’ll find all species of thirst-quenching venues here, from cocktail lounges and dive bars to specialty tap rooms and Third Wave coffee shops. Then there’s the city’s legendary club scene, spanning everything from celebrity staples to gritty, indie hangouts. Historic Cocktails, Crafty Beers The city’s craft beer culture is equally Here in the land where the term ‘cocktail’ dynamic, with an ever-expanding booty of was born, mixed drinks are still stirred with breweries, bars and shops showcasing lo- the utmost gravitas. From Jillian Vose at cal artisanal brews. While Brooklyn may no Dead Rabbit (p79) to Eben Freeman at Genu- longer be the major beer exporter of yester- ine Liquorette (p97), the city’s top barkeeps year, hipster breweries like Brooklyn Brewery are virtual celebrities, their deft precision (p270) and Sixpoint (www.sixpoint.com) have creating some of the world’s most sophisticat- put it back on the map. Other boroughs are ed and innovative libations. Often, it’s a case also making amber waves, with start-ups of history in a glass: New York’s obsession including SingleCut Beersmiths (www.sin- with rediscovered recipes and Prohibition-era glecutbeer.com) and Big Alice Brewery (big style continues to drive many a cocktail list. alicebrewing.com) in Queens, as well as Bronx Brewery (p366) and Gun Hill Brewing Co (www.gunhillbrewing.com) in the Bronx.

44 PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Clubbing When clubbing it never hurts to plan New Yorkers are always looking for the next ahead; having your name on a guest list can big thing, so the city’s club scene changes relieve unnecessary frustration and disap- faster than a New York minute. pointment. If you’re an uninitiated partier, dress the part. If you’re fed the ‘private NEED TO KNOW party’ line, try to bluff – chances are high that you’ve been bounced. Also, don’t forget Websites a wad of cash as many nightspots (even the ¨¨New York Magazine (www.nymag. swankiest ones) often refuse credit cards, com/nightlife) Brilliantly curated nightlife and in-house ATMs scam a fortune in fees. options by the people who know best. ¨¨Thrillist (www.thrillist.com) An The Coffee Evolution on-the-ball round up of what’s hot or A boom in specialty coffee roasters is trans- coming soon on the NYC bar scene, in- forming New York’s once-dismal caffeine cluding interviews with industry peeps. culture. More locals are cluing-in on single- ¨¨Urbandaddy (www.urbandaddy.com) origin beans and different brewing tech- More up-to-the-minute info and a handy niques, with numerous roasters now offering ‘hot right now’ list. cupping classes for curious drinkers. Many ¨¨Time Out (www.timeout.com/new- are transplants from A-list coffee cities, york/nightlife) Reviews and on-the-ball among them Portland’s Stumptown (p201) listings of where to drink and dance. and the Bay Area’s Blue Bottle (p291). The ¨¨partyearth (www.partyearth.com/ Australian influence is especially notable, new-york) Detailed club reviews from with antipodean mavericks including Little some of the city’s savviest party kids. Collins (p201) and Bluestone Lane (p77). Opening Hours Drinking & Nightlife Generally speaking, cafes (coffee shops) by Neighborhood open from 7am to 7pm or 8pm. While some dive bars open as early as 8am, most drink- ¨¨Lower Manhattan & the Financial District ing establishments get rolling around 5pm. FiDi office slaves loosen their ties in everything Numerous bars stay open until 4am, while from specialist beer and brandy bars to revered others close at around 1am early in the cocktail hot spots. In the warmer months, week and at 2am from Thursday to Satur- crowds pack pedestrianized Stone St. day. Clubs generally operate from 10pm to ¨¨East Village & Lower East Side Proud home 4am or 5pm. of the original-flavor dive bar, the East Village is brimming with options. In the cool ’n’ edgy How Much Lower East Side, hit Stanton and Rivington Sts. Happy hour beers typically start at around ¨¨West Village, Chelsea & the Meatpacking $4; expect to pay about $7 or $8 for a District Jet setters flock to the Meatpacking regular draft, and slightly more for im- District, with wine bars, backdoor lounges and ported bottles. Glasses of wine start at gay hangouts radiating out into the West Village around $9. Specialty cocktails run from and Chelsea. $14 to well over $20. While bars don’t ¨¨Union Square, Flatiron District & Gramercy usually have cover charges, you might find Vintage drinking dens packed with after-work yourself paying between $5 and $30 to ties, swinging cocktail bars jammed with slinky get into clubs. Cover charges are generally night owls and a string of fun student hangouts. highest on the weekend. ¨¨Midtown Rooftop bars with skyline views, historic cocktail salons, and rough-n-ready dive bars. Tipping If you grab a beer at the bar, bartenders will ¨¨Harlem & Upper Manhattan A burgeoning mix expect at least a $1 tip per drink; tip $2 to of speakeasy-style bars, hipster hangouts pouring $3 for fancier cocktails. Sit-down bars with craft suds, and old-school dives. The heart of the waitstaff may expect more of a standard action is Harlem. restaurant-style 18% to 20% tip, particu- ¨¨Brooklyn Brooklyn offers everything on the larly if you snacked along with your boozing. nightlife spectrum with Williamsburg as its heart.

45 Lonely Planet’s Best Wine Selection Best Dive Bars PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Top Choices Terroir Tribeca (p79) An Spring Lounge (p97) Soaks, Campbell Apartment (p201) enlightened, encyclopedic wine ties and cool kids unite at this Sip Kentucky Gingers in the list in trendy Tribeca. veteran Nolita rebel. lavish Grand Central office of a La Compagnie des Vins Sunny’s (p294) Our favorite 1920s bigwig. Surnaturels (p98) A love letter Red Hook dive, near the Brook- Little Branch (p152) to Gallic wines steps away from lyn waterfront. Speakeasy-chic is all the craze, Little Italy. but no one does it quite like this Barcibo Enoteca (p241) Go-to Best for Coffee West Village hideout. spot for oenophiles before Maison Premiere (p288) Ab- or after a show at the nearby Stumptown Coffee Roasters sinthe, juleps and oysters shine Lincoln Center. (p201) Hipster baristas serving bright at this Big Easy tribute in Immigrant (p122) Wonderful Portland’s favorite cup o’ joe. Williamsburg. wines and service in a skinny Bluestone Lane (p77) Aussie Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden East Village setting. brewing prowess in the shadow (p315) Czech brews served with of Wall St. thick accents at NYC’s favorite Best for Beer Blue Bottle Coffee (p291) beer garden in underrated Specialty coffee roasted on-site Queens. Spuyten Duyvil (p288) A much- in Brooklyn. loved Williamsburg spot serving La Colombe (p79) Sucker- Best Classic unique, high-quality crafts. punch roasts for the downtown Date Bars Astoria Bier & Cheese (p315) cognoscenti. Artisanal suds meet gourmet Little Collins (p201) A tribute Pegu Club (p98) Made-from- cheeses in Astoria, Queens. to Melbourne coffee culture in scratch concoctions in a Burma- Birreria (p169) Unfiltered, Midtown East. inspired SoHo hideaway. unpasteurized Manhattan ales Matcha Bar (p291) Skip the Ten Bells (p124) Candlelit on a Flatiron rooftop. traditional espresso and treat beauty with great drinks and Proletariat (p122) Tiny East yourself to a rich, flavorful tapas in the Lower East Side. Village bar serving up extremely matcha latte. Buvette (p149) A buzzing, uncommon brews. candlelit wine bar on a tree-lined Best Dance Clubs & West Village street. Best for Spirits House DJs Best Cocktails Brandy Library (p79) Blue- Cielo (p152) A thumping, mod- blooded cognacs, brandies and ern classic in the Meatpacking Dead Rabbit (p79) Meticulously more for Tribeca connoisseurs. District. researched cocktails, punches Rum House (p202) Unique, Le Bain (p152) Well-dressed and pop-inns – lightly hopped coveted rums and a pianist to crowds still pack this favorite ales spiked with different flavors boot in Midtown. near the High Line. – in a snug FiDi den. Mayahuel (p123) A sophisticat- Verboten (p290) A big, indus- Employees Only (p149) Award- ed East Village temple to mescal trial club in the heart of hiptastic winning barkeeps and arresting and tequila. Williamsburg. libations in the timeless West Dead Rabbit (p79) NYC’s finest Berlin (p119) Yesteryear’s Village. collection of rare Irish whiskeys free-spirited dance days live on Lantern’s Keep (p202) Classic, in the Financial District. at this concealed East Village elegant libations in a historic bolthole. Midtown hotel. Bossa Nova Civic Club (p289) Genuine Liquorette (p97) A A hip little Bushwick haunt for Cali-style bodega in Little Italy, those craving off-the-radar where innovative drinks meet thrills. playful irreverence.

46 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Entertainment Hollywood may hold court when it comes to the motion picture, but it’s NYC that reigns supreme over the pantheon of other arts. Actors, musicians, dancers and artists flock to the bright lights of the Big Apple like moths to a flame. Like the old saying goes: if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere. Theater Ave; b1 to 66th St-Lincoln Center). Another key From the legendary hit factories of Broadway venue dedicated to dance is the Joyce Theater to the scruffy black-box theaters that dot (p156), which stages acclaimed contemporary countless downtown blocks, NYC boasts the productions by dance companies from every full gamut of theater experiences. The most corner of the globe. There are also modern celebrated scene is, of course, that of Broad- dance companies galore, including those of way. There’s something truly magical about masters Alvin Ailey, Paul Taylor, Merce Cun- sitting in one of the ornate Broadway theat- ningham, Martha Graham, Bill T Jones, Mark ers and letting the show take you to another Morris and a slew of up-and-comers, which world as the lights dim. often take to the stage downtown and at the Brooklyn Academy of Music (p295). The term ‘off Broadway’ is not a geographi- cal one – it simply refers to theaters that are Comedy smaller in size (200 to 500 seats) and usually A good laugh is easy to find in the Big Apple, have less of a glitzy production budget than where comedians sharpen their stand-up and the Broadway big hitters. Off Broadway takes improv chops practising new material or hop- place in even smaller theaters, with shows ing to get scouted by a producer or agent. The that are often inexpensively produced and best spots for some chuckles are downtown, experimental in nature. particularly around Chelsea and Greenwich Village. Several festivals, including Comic Live Music Con, draw big names throughout the year. NYC is the country’s capital of live music, and just about every taste can be catered for here. Film & TV You’ll find big-band shindigs, jazz brunches Feasting on films in NYC is quite a differ- and swank dress-up clubs on the Upper West ent experience to the traditional American Side and in Times Square, while Harlem and blockbuster-at-the-multiplex scene. Film- the West Village are the city’s veritable jazz going is a serious venture here, as evidenced ghettos. Big name indie rockers earned their by the preponderance of movie houses that stripes downtown, but these days that scene show indie, classic, avant-garde, foreign and has largely flocked to North Brooklyn. otherwise nonstandard fare. Frequent film festivals, such as the Tribeca Film Festival Dance (%212-941-2400; www.tribecafilm.com; hApr), Dance fans are spoiled for choice in this town, with different themes provide additional which is home to both the New York City Bal- texture to the movie-going scene. let (p241) and the American Ballet Theatre One of the least-known gems for films is (Map p436; %212-477-3030; www.abt.org; David Museum of Modern Art (p182), which has a Koch Theater, Lincoln Center, 64th St, at Columbus rich collection of movies spanning all genres and corners of the world. The Film Society of

47 Lincoln Center (p242) stages an incredible NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP ENTERTAINMENT array of documentary and art house films. Also worth checking our is the BAM Rose Calendars & Reviews Cinemas (p295), which does similar fare as ¨¨Playbill (www.playbill.com) The well as revivals. publisher of that happy little yellow- and-white program provided by ushers A handful of TV shows (p37) are taped in at Broadway plays also has an online Midtown Manhattan, including Saturday version, offering theater news, listings Night Live and the Late Show with Stephen and a ticket-purchase system. Colbert. You can be an audience member by signing up online or trying for standby ¨¨Talkin’ Broadway (www.talking- tickets. broadway.com) A less formal site, with dishy reviews as well as a board for Opera & Classical Music posting extra tickets to buy or sell. When thinking about opera, one name rules the roost: the Metropolitan Opera (p241), ¨¨Print publications (plus their online which stages lavish and exceptional produc- equivalents) include Time Out, New York tions. However, many other forms live with- Magazine, New York Times and Village in the city limits. The laudable downtown Voice. company Amore Opera (Map p412; www.face- Ticket Agencies book.com/AmoreOpera; Sheen Center, 18 Bleecker St, btwn Elizabeth & Mott Sts; tickets from $40; bF To purchase tickets for shows, you can to 2nd Ave; 6 to Bleecker St) performs impres- either head directly to the venue’s box sive works in the intimate 99-seat Connelly office, or use one of several ticket agencies Theater. Other roving companies include (most of which add a surcharge) to order Opera on Tap (www.operaontap.org/newyork), by phone or online. which stages performances not at grand ¨¨Broadway Line (www.broadway.org) theaters but bars around Brooklyn. Another Provides descriptions and good prices creative Brooklyn outfit is LoftOpera (p296), for shows on the Great White Way. which, true to name, performs condensed operas in a loft in Gowanus. ¨¨SmartTix (www.smarttix.com) A great source for practically anything but The choices for orchestras, chamber mu- Broadway, with info on comedy, caba- sic and opera are abundant, with the more ret, performance art, music, dance and cutting-edge options often stealing center downtown theater. stage. For all things traditional on a grand scale, don’t miss Lincoln Center (p234), the ¨¨Telecharge (www.telecharge.com) Brooklyn Academy of Music (p295) and the Sells tickets for Broadway and off- famously stunning Carnegie Hall (p204). Broadway shows. Entertainment by Neighborhood ¨¨Theatermania (www.theatermania. com) For any form of theater; provides ¨¨Lower Manhattan & the Financial District listings, reviews and ticketing. Tribeca is home to the Flea Theatre and Soho Rep, two venerable theater companies. ¨¨Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster. ¨¨East Village & Lower East Side Experimental com) An old chestnut, Ticketmaster performance spaces, poetry slams and stand-up sells tickets for every conceivable form comics fill basements with laughter. of big-time entertainment. ¨¨West Village, Chelsea & the Meatpacking District Unofficial HQ of the world’s jazz club ¨¨TKTS Booths Cut-price same-day scene, plus dance troupes galore in Chelsea. tickets to Broadway shows, with loca- ¨¨Midtown Razzle-dazzle extravaganzas, fresh tions in Midtown, South Street Seaport American theater, world-class jazz sessions, and Downtown Brooklyn. stand-up comedy blue bloods: when the sun sinks, no neighborhood does ‘classic New York’ while other venues (the Beacon Theatre and better than Midtown. Cleopatra’s Needle) provide more intimate settings ¨¨Upper West Side & Central Park The Lincoln for live music. Center supplies an endless amount of high culture, ¨¨Brooklyn There’s a little bit of everything in America’s fourth largest city, from the classical offerings at BAM and Theater for a New Audience to the indie rock bands in Williamsburg.

48 PLAN YOUR TRIP ENTERTAINMENT Lonely Planet’s Caroline’s on Broadway (p207) An American in Paris (p205) Top Choices The go-to spot for seeing Exuberant choreography, famous comics perform. Gershwin tunes and a romantic Book of Mormon (p204) Uproar- Creek & the Cave (p315) Parisian setting. iously brilliant Broadway musical Offbeat comedy clubhouse in appreciated for its wit, charm and Long Island City. Best for Theater pitch-perfect performances. (Non-Broadway) Brooklyn Bowl (p295) Great line- Best for Dance up of funk, indie rock and global Playwrights Horizons (p207) beats, plus beer and bowling! Joyce Theater (p156) NY’s best Showcase of powerfully written Kinky Boots (p204) A feel-good venue devoted solely to dance. plays. tale of an old English shoe New York Live Arts (p155) Signature Theatre (p207) factory saved by a drag queen. Experimental leanings with Stages works by some of the Great costumes. performances by troupes from world’s top playwrights. Jazz at Lincoln Center (p205) around the globe. Soho Rep (p80) Some of the Glittering evening views of Brooklyn Academy of Music city’s most powerful and inven- Central Park and world-class (p295) Catch Mark Morris tive drama. musical acts. Dance Group and many others. Theater for a New Audience Carnegie Hall (p204) Legend- (p296) Brooklyn’s new theater ary concert hall, blessed with Best for Film opened to much fanfare in 2013. perfect acoustics; hosts every- thing from opera to jazz. Nitehawk Cinema (p295) Nib- Best for Jazz & Brooklyn Academy of Music ble great food and sip cocktails Global Sounds (p295) This hallowed theater while watching first-run and hosts cutting-edge works, par- foreign flicks in Williamsburg. Jazz at Lincoln Center (p205) ticularly during its celebrated Anthology Film Archives Innovative fare under the guid- Next Wave Festival. (p125) East Village icon that ance of jazz luminary Wynton Hamilton (p203) A history les- screens obscure works and Marsalis. son set to urban rhythms. revivals. Village Vanguard (p154) Leg- BAM Rose Cinemas (p295) A endary West Village jazz club. Best for Classical good mix of first-run and foreign Smalls (p154) Tiny West Village Music & Opera films in a landmark Fort Greene basement joint that evokes the building. feel of decades past. Metropolitan Opera House Film Forum (p99) Another Barbès (p296) Obscure but cel- (p241) Enchanting setting for downtown film innovator with an ebratory rhythms from around seeing some of the best opera. excellent indie repertoire. the globe in Park Slope. National Sawdust (p295) Cutting-edge contemporary Best Broadway Best for Rock composers that fuse classical, Shows opera and global sounds. Bowery Ballroom (p126) Cel- Brooklyn Academy of Music Book of Mormon (p204) Bril- ebrated downtown concert hall. (p295) Innovative works by liantly funny, award-winning show Music Hall of Williamsburg Brooklyn’s renowned hit-maker. by the creators of South Park. (p297) Indie rock galore out in Chicago (Map p432; 219 W 49th Brooklyn. Best for Laughs St, btwn Broadway & Eighth Ave, Rockwood Music Hall (p125) Midtown West) One of the most Music all the time at this Lower Upright Citizens Brigade scintillating shows on Broadway. East Side spot. Theatre (p154) Hilarious com- Kinky Boots (p204) Book well Bell House (p295) South edy sketches and improv. ahead to score seats for this Brooklyn charmer with an Comedy Cellar (p156) A well- over-the-top musical. innovative line-up of indie and loved basement comedy joint in folk sounds. Greenwich Village.