Lonely Planet Rome

PDF Rome PDF ebook Edition 10th Edition Release Date Jan 2018 Pages 320 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

4 How to use this book easy-to-use Top Sights features provide in-depth sections coverage of the city’s very best sights. Plan Your Trip ST PETER’S BASILICA Your planning tool kit Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: Photos, lists and suggestions to help you create your perfect trip. 1 SIGHTS 3 ENTERTAINMENT 5 EATING 7 SHOPPING Explore 6 DRINKING & 2 SPORTS & Your complete city guide NIGHTLIFE ACTIVITIES Top Sights features, in-depth All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference, reviews and local tips. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Understand range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference. Get more from your trip Learn about the big picture, so you These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: can make sense of the city. Must-visit recommendation Survival Guide Sustainable or green recommendation Your at-a-glance reference Vital practical information to help No payment required you have a smooth trip. % Telephone number f Ferry h Opening hours j Tram plus p Parking d Train n Nonsmoking apt apartments full-colour a Air-conditioning d double rooms map section i Internet access dm dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms 316 316 317 317 s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms Key on p318 Key on p318 e# 0 e# 0 400 m 400 m E English-language menu ste suites A 0 0 0.2 miles 0.2 miles c Family-friendly tr triple rooms 0000000000000000000000000000000000001000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 A ji ji # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms 1 Piazzale 000000000000000000000000000000000000B000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 B C Coordinamento C D D hggh 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46325710000000000 g Bus Anita Piazzale Lesbiche Italiano #ï Coordinamento 2 Viale delle Mura AurelieGaribaldi Lesbiche Italiano Via delle Nuova Fornaci Via LGgitudlieaTiiTbeerbaRlidvier#ï 3 Via LGgitudlieaTiiTbeerbaRlidvier Viale delle Mura Aurelie Passeggiata del Gianicolo Vic deVlilaaSPaennFitreannzcaesVcoicddi eSVlailaVPaleieSaPsnaedin6tÿ#nee6lFinltarezananzcaesco di Sales ÿ# Via delle Nuova Fornaci Passeggiata del Gianicolo LgtVdeialladFealrlnaeLsiunna gara66 LgtVdeialladFealrlnaeLsiunna gara TRASTEVERE & GIANICOLO TRASTEVERE & GIANICOLO VPieanditeelnlaza TRASTEVERE & GIANICOLO TRASTEVERE & GIANICOLO Anita Via dei RFiaâ#rrineVs3iinlâ#laa Via Arenula GaribaldVi illa Orto Villa Via Arenula á# 4 Botá#ani4co ViaVBdioellitaaROniaircrtioo Farnesina 7 â# 3 â# 2 Villa Orto Orto æ#11BdCoiLOrStaiasrvrtntgeoi0000inzocViaoa0000ia Cors6in2i LargoVia 7 Botanico BotVBaionllt0000aicaOon0000irctoo 11 Corsini Gianicolo 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000008 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Plan Your Trip 12 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Rome “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET Duncan Garwood, Nicola Williams

Contents PPllaannYYoouurrTTrriipp page 1 4 Welcome to Rome����������� 4 Top Itineraries����������������18 For Free�������������������������� 27 Rome’s Top 10����������������� 6 If You Like...��������������������20 Eating���������������������������28 What’s New���������������������13 Month by Month������������ 22 Drinking & Nightlife���36 Need to Know�����������������14 With Kids������������������������ 24 Entertainment������������ 40 First Time Rome�������������16 Like a Local�������������������� 26 Shopping��������������������� 44 Explore Rome  46 Ancient Rome����������������50 Monti, Esquilino Villa Borghese Centro Storico��������������� 70 & San Lorenzo������������� 136 & N­ orthern Rome�������� 176 Tridente, Trevi Trastevere Southern Rome����������� 187 & the Quirinale���������������96 & Gianicolo������������������� 152 Vatican City, Borgo San Giovanni Day Trips & Prati����������������������������116 & ­Testaccio������������������ 166 from Rome�����������������199 Sleeping�������������������� 208 Understand Rome 217 Rome Today����������������� 218 The Arts�����������������������234 The Roman History������������������������� 220 Architecture�����������������244 Way of Life��������������������256 Survival Guide  259 Transport�������������������� 260 Language���������������������273 Directory A–Z��������������267 Index�����������������������������282 Rome Maps  289

MITCHINOVPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK © BAKDC/SHUTTERSTOCK © (left) Italian gelato p33 MILA ATKOVSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Rome has some of the world’s finest ice-cream shops. (above) Pantheon p72 Tourists surround Rome’s best-preserved ancient monument. (right) Roman Forum p57 Partial view of the ruins from Palatino. Villa Borghese & Northern Rome p176 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati Tridente, Trevi & p116 the Quirinale Centro p96 Monti, Esquilino & Storico San Lorenzo p70 p136 Ancient Trastevere & Rome Gianicolo p50 p152 San Giovanni & Testaccio p166 Southern Rome p187

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Rome A heady mix of haunting ruins, awe-inspiring art and vibrant street life, Italy’s hot-blooded capital is one of the world’s most romantic and inspiring cities. Historical Legacies Living the Life The result of 3000 years of ad hoc urban A trip to Rome is as much about lapping development, Rome’s cityscape is an exhilar- up the dolce vita lifestyle as gorging on ating spectacle. Ancient icons such as the art and culture. Idling around picturesque Colosseum, Roman Forum and Pantheon streets, whiling away hours at streetside recall the city’s golden age as caput mundi cafes, people-watching on pretty piazzas – (capital of the world), while its many monu- these are all an integral part of the Roman mental basilicas testify to its historical role experience. The tempo rises as the heat of as seat of the Catholic Church. Lording it the day gives way to the evening cool and over the skyline, St Peter’s Basilica is the the fashionably dressed aperitivo (pre- Vatican’s epic showpiece church, a towering dinner drinks) crowd descends on the city’s masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. bars and cafes. Restaurants and trattorias Elsewhere, ornate piazzas and showy foun- hum with activity and cheerful hordes mill tains add a baroque flourish to the city’s around popular haunts before heading off captivating streets. to cocktail bars and late-night clubs. Artistic Riches Roman Feasting Few cities can rival Rome’s astonishing artis- Eating out is one of Rome’s great pleasures tic heritage. Throughout history, the city has and the combination of romantic alfresco starred in the great upheavals of Western art, settings and superlative food is a guarantee drawing the top artists of the day and inspir- of good times. For contemporary fine dining ing them to push the boundaries of creative and five-star wine there are any number of achievement. The result is a city awash with refined restaurants, but for a truly Roman priceless treasures. Ancient statues adorn meal head to a boisterous pizzeria or con- world-class museums; Byzantine mosaics vivial neighbourhood trattoria. These are and Renaissance frescoes dazzle in the city’s where the locals go to dine with friends and art-rich churches; baroque facades flank me- indulge their passion for thin, crispy pizzas, dieval piazzas. Walk around the centre and humble pastas, and cool white wines from you’ll come across masterpieces by the giants the nearby Castelli Romani hills. Then to of Western art – sculptures by Michelangelo, finish off, what about a gelato followed by a canvases by Caravaggio, Raphael frescoes shot of world-beating coffee? and fountains by Bernini.

BRIAN KINNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK © Why I Love Rome By Duncan Garwood, Writer As much as its great monuments – the Colosseum, St Peter’s Basilica, the Pantheon – what I love about Rome are its details: the cobbled lanes and hidden corners, the vivid colours, the aroma of freshly ground coffee wafting out of its cafes. Rome’s streets and piazzas are an endless source of entertainment and, as a history buff, I get a real kick when I think of all the legendary events that have taken place here. Rome is also a fabu- lous place to eat well and there’s little I love more than a long lunch at a favourite trattoria. For more about our writers, see p320 Top: The interior of the Pantheon (p72)

6 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Rome’s Top 10

7 Colosseum (p52) Museo e Galleria Borghese (p178) 1 No photograph can prepare you for the thrill of seeing the Colosseum for 2 The greatest gallery you’ve never the first time. More than any other monu- heard of, the Museo e Galleria ment, this iconic amphitheatre symbolises Borghese houses some of Rome’s most the power and drama of ancient Rome, spectacular works of art. You’ll need to and still today it’s an electrifying sight. Its book ahead, but it’s a small price to pay for muscular form has survived in remarkably the chance to see a series of sensational good shape and it doesn’t take a huge leap baroque sculptures by Gian Lorenzo Berni- of the imagination to picture it in its pomp, ni, as well as a celebrated statue by Cano- its steeply stacked stands full of frenzied va and paintings by the likes of Caravaggio, spectators as armoured gladiators slug it Raphael and Titian. And when you’ve fin- out on the arena below. ished, the surrounding Villa Borghese park is the perfect place to digest what you’ve 1Ancient Rome just seen. DAVID BY GIAN LORENZO BERNINI 1Villa Borghese & Northern Rome WJAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK © VIACHESLAV LOPATIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BRIAN KINNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK © BILL PERRY/SHUTTERSTOCK © 8 PLAN YOUR TRIP ROME’S TOP 10

9 PLAN YOUR TRIP ROME’S TOP 10 PHANT/SHUTTERSTOCK © Vatican St Peter’s Pantheon (p72) Museums (p122) Basilica (p118) 5 The best preserved of 3 Rome boasts many 4 You don’t have to be a Rome’s ancient monu- artistic highlights, but believer to be bowled ments, the Pantheon is a few are as overpowering over by St Peter’s Basilica, truly extraordinary building. as Michelangelo’s frescoes Rome’s largest and most Its huge columned portico in the Sistine Chapel. A spectacular church. Every- and thick-set walls impress, kaleidoscopic barrage of thing about the place is but it’s only when you get colours and images, they astonishing, from the inside that you get the full come as the grand finale sweeping piazza that an- measure of the place. It’s of the Vatican Museums, nounces it, to the grandiose vast, and you’ll feel very Rome’s largest and most facade and opulent interior. small as you look up at popular art museum. Inside Topping everything is Mi- the record-breaking dome the vast complex, kilometre chelangelo’s extraordinary soaring above your head. upon kilometre of corridors dome, a mould-breaking Adding to the effect are the are lined with classical masterpiece of Renaissance shafts of light that stream in sculptures, paintings and architecture and one of through the central oculus tapestries as they lead in- Rome’s landmark sights. (the circular opening at the exorably towards the Raph- This is a building that was dome’s apex), illuminating ael Rooms, a suite of four designed to awe, and even the royal tombs set into the rooms brilliantly frescoed in a city of churches like circular marble-clad walls. by Raphael, and, beyond Rome it stands head and that, the Sistine Chapel. shoulders above everything 1Centro Storico else. THE DOME (P120), DESIGNED BY 1Vatican City, Borgo MICHELANGELO & Prati 1Vatican City, Borgo & Prati

10 Roman Forum (p57) Via Appia Antica (p189) 6 To walk through the tumbledown 7 The first great superhighway of the remnants of the Roman Forum is to Roman world, Via Appia Antica is a retrace the footsteps of the great figures of gorgeous place to be on a clear, sunny Roman history – people like Julius Caesar, morning. Running through lush green Augustus and Pompey. And while the ruins fields and strewn with piles of greying ru- can be confusing, it remains a stirring ex- ins, it’s the very picture of pastoral Italian perience to stand at the heart of what was beauty. But the bucolic scenery belies its once the heart of the Roman Empire. Near- bloody past. It was here that Spartacus by, the Palatino (Palatine Hill) is where it all and 6000 of his slave army were crucified, began: where Romulus supposedly killed and it was here that the ancients came Remus and founded the city in 753 BC, and to bury their dead: well-to-do Romans in where the ancient Roman emperors lived elaborate mausoleums, the early Chris- in unimaginable luxury. tians in the catacombs. BRIAN KINNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK © 1Ancient Rome 1Southern Rome PLAN YOUR TRIP ROME’S TOP 10

JANNIS TOBIAS WERNER/SHUTTERSTOCK © 11PLAN YOUR TRIP ROME’S TOP 10 MARTIN M303/SHUTTERSTOCK © Capitoline Museums (p61) 8 In ancient times, Cam- pidoglio (the Capitoline Hill) was home to Rome’s two most important temples. Nowadays, the main reason to make the short, steep climb to the top is to admire the views over the Roman Forum and visit the Capitoline Museums on Piazza del Campidoglio, itself one of Rome’s most beautiful squares. The world’s oldest public museums, these harbour some fantastic clas- sical statuary, including the celebrated Lupa Capitolina (Capitoline Wolf), an icon of early Etruscan art, and some really wonderful paintings. PIAZZA DEL CAMPIDOGLIO (P65) 1Ancient Rome

PLAN YOUR TRIP ROME’S TOP 1012 MURATART/SHUTTERSTOCK © Trevi Fountain (p100) BRIAN KINNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK © 9 A stop at Rome’s largest and most famous fountain is a traditional rite of passage for visitors to Rome. Every day crowds gather to toss coins into the foun- tain’s water to ensure that one day they’ll return to the Eternal City. The fountain, designed by Nicola Salvi in the 18th century, is a gloriously over-the-top rococo affair depicting wild horses, mythical figures and cascading rock falls. After a recent restora- tion, it’s looking particularly splendid, and is most spellbinding when illuminated after dark. 1Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale Piazza Navona (p74) 10 Rome’s monumental piazzas each have their own distinct chatacter: there’s the awe-inspiring majesty of St Peter’s Square or the market clamour of Campo de’ Fiori. But for sheer jaw-dropping beauty, nowhere can beat Piazza Navona. Set atop an ancient Roman arena in the heart of the historic centre, the piazza is the very picture of elegant baroque styling with its three ornamental fountains, domed church and hand- some palazzi (mansions). Adding to the spectacle are the ringside cafes and the ever- present street artists. 1Centro Storico

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 13 What’s New Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua Speakeasies Once described as the Sistine Chapel of From Spirito (p148), reminiscent of 1920s the early Middle Ages, the Chiesa di Santa Prohibition-era New York and hidden in a Maria Antiqua recently re-opened after sandwich shop in Pigneto, to hard-to-find years of restoration. Its interior features Keyhole (p161) in a Trastevere back street, stunning frescoes and one of the oldest underground speakeasies serving superbly icons in existence. (p60) mixed craft cocktails are Rome’s hottest drinking trend right now. The Cloud Contemporary architecture buffs can Testaccio Food Stalls now have a field day exploring the city’s Testaccio’s covered market is an increas- brand new congress centre, aka La Nuvola ingly hot foodie hang-out. The latest food (Cloud), designed by Massimiliano Fuksas stall to open there is Cups, a takeaway in the Orwellian EUR district. (p196) backed by top city chef Cristina Bowerman, serving soups and sauces in cardboard Fendi cups. (p173) Rome’s home-grown haute-couture fashion house continues to turn heads with the Anticafé Roma opening of boutique hotel Fendi Private Modelled on a French cafe, Anticafé Roma Suites (p213) and uber-chic rooftop bar is a kind of hybrid cafe–work space–living Zuma (p111) in the Palazzo Fendi, plus a room where you pay for the time you spend contemporary art exhibition space at the there, not what you consume. There are Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana (p196), its sofas, board games, mellow tunes and free stylish headquarters in EUR. wi-fi. (p174) Sbanco Gentrification of Piazza The latest venture of Stefano Callegari, the Vittorio Emanuele founder of hit takeaway chain Trapizzino, A twinset of brilliant new openings are trendy Sbanco serves some of the best soft- kick-starting gentrification of the piazza: base pizzas in town, wonderfully accompa- super-chic Generator Hostel (p214) with nied by craft beer. (p172) a roof terrace to die for, and fashionable Gatsby Café (p148), in a vintage hat shop. Roscioli Caffè The name Roscioli is always a guarantee Marta Ray of good things. Its deli and bakery set the Ladies on the lookout for fashionable yet standards and the recently opened Roscioli practical shoes are well served at Marta Caffè fits the bill perfectly with smooth Ray, a lovely shop on Via dei Coronari coffee and artfully crafted pastries. specialising in ballet flats in a range of (p90) rainbow colours. (p91) For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet. com/italy/rome

14 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p259) Currency Daily Costs Advance Planning euro (€) Budget: Less than Two months before Book high- €110 season accommodation. Language One month before Check for ¨¨Dorm bed: €20–35 concerts at www.auditorium. Italian ¨¨Double room in a budget com and www.operaroma.it. hotel: €60–130 Visas ¨¨Pizza plus beer: €15 One to two weeks before Reserve tables at A-list restau- Not required by EU citizens. Not Midrange: €110–250 rants; sort tickets for the pope’s required by nationals of Australia, weekly audience at St Peter’s; Canada, New Zealand and the ¨¨Double room in a hotel: book a visit to Palazzo Farnese. USA for stays of up to 90 days. €110–200 Few days before Book tickets for ¨¨Local restaurant meal: the Museo e Galleria Borghese Money €25–45 (compulsory) and for the Vatican ¨¨Admission to museum: Museums and Colosseum (advis- ATMs are widespread. Major €5–16 able to avoid queues). credit cards are widely accepted ¨¨Roma Pass, a 72-hour card but some smaller shops, trattorias covering museum entry and Useful Websites and hotels might not take them. public transport: €38.50 ¨¨Turismo Roma (www. Mobile Phones Top End: More than turismoroma.it) Rome’s €250 official tourist website with Local SIM cards can be used in inspirational and practical European, Australian and un- ¨¨Double room in a four- or information. locked US phones. Other phones five-star hotel: €200–450 ¨¨060608 (www.060608.it) must be set to roaming. ¨¨Top restaurant dinner: Great for practical details on €45–150 sights, transport, up-coming Time ¨¨Opera ticket €17–150 events and more. ¨¨City-centre taxi ride €10–15 ¨¨Coopculture (www. Western European Time (GMT/ ¨¨Auditorium concert tickets coopculture.it) Information UTC plus one hour) €25–90 and ticket booking for Rome’s monuments. Tourist Information ¨¨Vatican Museums (www. museivaticani.va) Book Turismo Roma (www.turismo tickets and guided tours to the roma.it/?lang=en; c) Rome’s museums and other Vatican official tourist website has com- sites. prehensive information about ¨¨Tavole Romane (www. sights, accommodation, and city tavoleromane.it) Italian- transport, as well as itineraries language site covering the and up-to-date listings. city’s food scene.

15 WHEN TO GO Rome Rainfall inches/mm 8/200 Spring (April to °C/°F Temp June) and autumn 30/86 (September and October) are the 20/68 6/150 best times – the weather’s good and 10/50 4/100 PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K now there are many fes- tivals and outdoor 0/32 2/50 events on. -10/14 0 JF MAM J J A S OND Arriving in Rome Getting Around Sleeping Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) Public Transport includes Rome is expensive and busy; Airport Leonardo Express trains buses, trams, metro and a book ahead to secure the to Stazione Termini 6.23am to suburban train network. best deal. Accommodation 11.23pm, €14; slower FL1 trains The main hub is Stazione ranges from palatial five- to Trastevere, Ostiense and Termini. Tickets, which star hotels to hostels, B&Bs, Tiburtina stations 5.57am to come in various forms, are pensioni and private rooms. 10.42pm, €8; buses to Stazione valid for all forms of trans- Hostels are the cheapest, Termini 6.05am to 12.30am, €6; port. Children under 10 with dorm beds and private private transfers from €22 per years travel free. rooms: around Stazione person; taxis €48 (fixed fare to ¨¨Metro The metro is quicker Termini several budget ho- within the Aurelian walls). than surface transport but tels also offer ‘dorm beds’, Ciampino Airport Buses the network is limited. There meaning you can book a bed to Stazione Termini 4am to are two main lines, A (orange) in a shared double, triple or 11.15pm, €5; private transfers and B (blue), which cross at quad hotel room. B&Bs and €25 per person; taxis €30 (fixed Stazione Termini. Trains run hotels cover every style and fare to within the Aurelian walls). between 5.30am and 11.30pm price range. Stazione Termini Airport buses (to 1.30am on Fridays and and trains, and international Saturdays). Useful Websites trains, arrive at Stazione Ter- mini. From here, continue by ¨¨Buses Most routes pass ¨¨Cross Pollinate (www. bus, metro or taxi. through Stazione Termini. cross-pollinate.com) Buses run from approximately Personally vetted rooms For much more on 5.30am until midnight, with and apartments by the team arrival see p260 limited services throughout behind Rome’s super-efficient the night. and stylish Beehive (p214) hostel. ¨¨Foot Walking is the best way ¨¨Bed & Breakfast of getting around the centro Association of Rome storico (historic centre). (www.b-b.rm.it) B&Bs and short-term apartment rentals. For much more on ¨¨Bed & Breakfast Italia getting around see (www.bbitalia.it) Rome’s p262 longest-established B&B network. ORGANISED TOURS For much more on Taking a guided tour is an excellent way of seeing a lot sleeping see p208 in a short time or investigating a sight in depth. Both the Colosseum and Vatican Museums offer official guided tours, but for a more personalised service consider a private guide or independent small-group tour (whereby you’ll cut out the queue for tickets, skip the line to get in and occasionally gain access to parts of a building not usually open to the public).

16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd First Time Rome For more information, see Survival Guide (p259) Checklist Top Tips for Your Trip ¨¨Check your passport is ¨¨Don’t try to cover everything. Focus on a few sights/areas and valid leave the rest for next time. ¨¨Organise travel insurance ¨¨Rome’s historic centre is made for leisurely strolling, so allow ¨¨Inform your credit-/debit- time for mapless wandering. Half the fun of Rome is discovering card company of your travels what’s around the corner. ¨¨Check that you can use ¨¨When choosing where to eat, never judge a place by its your mobile phone appearance. Some of the best meals are had in modest-looking ¨¨Book accommodation trattorias. and tickets for sights like ¨¨To deal with the summer heat, adjust to the local rhythm: go the Vatican Museums, out in the morning, rest after lunch and head out again in the late Colosseum, Museo e Galleria afternoon. Borghese ¨¨If coming at Christmas What to Wear or Easter, check details of services at St Peter’s Basilica Appearances matter in Rome. That said, you’ll need to and other churches dress comfortably because you’ll be walking a lot. Suitable wear for men is generally trousers (pants) and shirts or polo What to Pack shirts, and for women, skirts, trousers or dresses. Shorts, T-shirts and sandals are fine in summer but bear in mind ¨¨Trainers or comfy walking that strict dress codes are enforced at St Peter’s Basilica and shoes – cobbled streets can the Vatican Museums. For evening wear, smart casual is be murder on the feet the norm. A light sweater or waterproof jacket is useful in ¨¨Smart-casual evening spring and autumn. clothes – Romans dress up to go out Be Forewarned ¨¨Purse with strap – petty theft can be a problem ¨¨Rome is a safe city but petty theft can be a problem and ¨¨Water bottle – refill it at pickpockets are active in touristy areas and on crowded public drinking water fountains transport. Use common sense and watch your valuables. ¨¨Electrical adapter and ¨¨In case of theft or loss, always report the incident to the police phone charger within 24 hours and ask for a statement. ¨¨Expect queues at major sights such as the Colosseum, St Peter’s Basilica and Vatican Museums. Pre-booking tickets costs extra but cuts waiting. ¨¨August is Italy’s main holiday period. Romans desert the city in droves and many shops and eateries close for a week or two around 15 August.

17 Money Language PL A N YO U R TRI P F irst T ime R ome Bancomat (ATMs) are You can get by with English, but you’ll improve your common, but be aware of experience no end by mastering a few basic words transaction fees. If an ATM and expressions in Italian. This is particularly true in rejects your card, try an- restaurants where menus don’t always have English other before assuming the translations and some places rely on waiters to ex- problem is with your card. plain what’s on. For more on language, see p273. Save money by drinking coffee standing at the bar What’s the local speciality? rather than taking a seat. Also carry a water bottle Qual’è la specialità di questa regione? and fill it at Rome’s many kwa·le la spe·cha·lee·ta dee kwes·ta re·jo·ne fountains (nicknamed na- A bit like the rivalry between medieval Italian city-states, these soni, meaning ‘big noses’). days the country’s regions compete in speciality foods and wines. Many museums are free on the first Sunday of the Which combined tickets do you have? month, while the Vatican Museums are free on the Quali biglietti cumulativi avete? last Sunday of the month. kwa·lee bee·lye·tee koo·moo·la·tee·vee a·ve·te Make the most of your euro by getting combined tickets to various For more information, sights; they are available in all major Italian cities. see p269. Where can I buy discount designer items? Taxes & Refunds C’è un outlet in zona? che oon owt·let in zo·na A 22% value-added tax Discount fashion outlets are big business in major cities – get known as IVA (Imposta sul bargain-priced seconds, samples and cast-offs for la bella gura. Valore Aggiunta) is included in the price of most goods I’m here with my husband/boyfriend. and services. Tax-free shop- ping is available at some Sono qui con il mio marito/ragazzo. shops. so·no kwee kon eel mee·o ma·ree·to/ra·ga·tso Solo women travellers may receive unwanted attention in some All stays in the city are parts of Italy; if ignoring fails have a polite rejection ready. subject to an accommoda- tion tax (p209) – the exact Let’s meet at 6pm for pre-dinner drinks. sum depends on the length of your sojourn and type of Ci vediamo alle sei per un aperitivo. accommodation. chee ve·dya·mo a·le say per oon a·pe·ree·tee·vo At dusk, watch the main piazza get crowded with people sipping colourful cocktails and snacking the evening away: join your new friends for this authentic Italian ritual! Tipping Etiquette Romans are not big tippers, Italy is quite a formal society and the niceties of social but the following is a rough interaction are observed. guide: ¨¨Greetings Greet people in bars, shops, trattorias etc with a ¨¨Taxis Optional, but most buongiorno (good morning) or buonasera (good evening). people round up to the nearest ¨¨Asking for help Say mi scusi (excuse me) to attract attention; euro. use permesso (permission) to pass someone in a crowded space. ¨¨Restaurants Service ¨¨Dress Cover up when visiting churches and go smart when (servizio) is generally included; eating out. if it’s not, a euro or two is fine in pizzerias, no more than 10% in Roma Pass restaurants. ¨¨Bars Not necessary, This useful pass is available online, from tourist informa- although many people leave tion points or from participating museums. small change if drinking at ¨¨72 hours (€38.50) Provides free admission to two museums the bar. or sites, as well as reduced entry to extra sites, unlimited city ¨¨Hotels Tip porters about €5 transport, and discounted entry to other exhibitions and events. at A-list hotels. ¨¨48 hours (€28) Gives free admission to one museum or site, and then as per the 72-hour pass.

18 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Top Itineraries Day One Day Two Ancient Rome (p50) Vatican City, Borgo & Prati (p116) M Start the day at the Colosseum, M On day two, hit the Vatican. First up Rome’s huge gladiatorial arena – try are the Vatican Museums. Once to get there early to avoid the queues. Then you’ve blown your mind on the Sistine head down to the Palatino to poke around Chapel and its other myriad masterpieces, crumbling ruins and admire sweeping complete your tour at St Peter’s Basilica. If views. From the Palatino, follow on to the you have the energy, climb its Michelangelo- Roman Forum, an evocative area of tum- designed dome for fantastic views over St bledown temples, sprouting columns and Peter’s Square. But if the queues are bad or ruined basilicas. you’re suffering art overload, stop first for an early lunch. Lunch Sample regional specialities at Terre e Domus (p67). Lunch Savour Rome’s best sliced pizza at Pizzarium (p132). Ancient Rome (p50) Tridente, Trevi & R After lunch climb up to Piazza del the Quirinale (p116) Campidoglio and the Capitoline Museums, where you’ll find some sensa- R Recharged, jump on the metro and tional ancient sculpture. Done there, enjoy head back over the river to check out great views from the Vittoriano before Piazza di Spagna. Plan your moves while pushing on to the centro storico (historic sitting on the Spanish Steps, then push centre) to explore its labyrinthine medieval on to the Trevi Fountain where tradition streets and headline sights such as the Pan- dictates you throw a coin into the water to theon and Piazza Navona. ensure your return to Rome. Next, head up the hill to catch the sunset on Piazza del Dinner Dine on quality wood-fired pizza Quirinale in front of the presidential pal- at Emma Pizzeria (p86). ace, Palazzo del Quirinale. Centro Storico (p70) Dinner Dine on creative cuisine at fashionable Pianostrada (p86). N After dinner get a taste of dolce vita bar life. Depending on what you’re Centro Storico (p70) after, you could hang out with the beautiful people at chic Etablì near Piazza Navona, N Spend the evening in the buzzing chat over coffee at Caffè Sant’Eustachio, area around Campo de’ Fiori. Bar- or sup cocktails at the Gin Corner. num Cafe is a top place for cocktails and laid-back tunes or hit Open Baladin for a welcome taste of craft beer.

19 PL A N YO U R TRI P T op I tineraries Day Three St Peter’s Square (p130) and St Peter’s Basilica (p118) BRIAN KINNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK © Villa Borghese & Day Four Northern Rome (p176) Southern Rome (p187) M Day three starts with a trip to the Museo e Galleria Borghese – M On day four it’s time to venture out don’t forget to book – to marvel at amaz- to Via Appia Antica. The main ing baroque sculpture. Afterwards, stroll attractions here are the catacombs, and through Villa Borghese down to La it’s a wonderfully creepy sensation to duck Galleria Nazionale for an injection of down into these sinister pitch-black tun- modern art. nels. Back above ground, you’ll find the remains of an ancient racetrack at the Lunch Fill up on the bargain buffet at nearby Villa di Massenzio. the Osteria Flaminio (p184). Lunch Eat on the Appia, at Qui Nun se More Mai. (p197) Tridente, Trevi & Monti, Esquilino & the Quirinale (p96) San Lorenzo (p136) R In the afternoon, check what’s go- R Once you’ve eaten, head north to ing on at Rome’s modernist cultural Stazione Termini and the nearby centre, the Auditorium Parco della Mu- Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo sica, before heading back to Piazza del Massimo alle Terme, a superb museum Popolo. Just off the piazza, the Basilica full of classical sculpture and stunning di Santa Maria del Popolo is a magnifi- mosaics. Then, drop by the monumental cent repository of art. Next, dedicate some Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, time to browsing the flagship stores and famous for its mosaics, and the Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli, home to Michel- Dinner Enjoy innovation at Glass angelo’s muscular Moses sculpture. Finish Hostaria (p160), or tradition at Da Enzo (p158). Dinner Dine on marvellous Umbrian cuisine at L’Asino d’Oro (p145). designer boutiques in the upscale streets up with some shopping in the fashionable off Via del Corso. boutiques of the charming Monti district. Trastevere & Gianicolo (p152) Monti, Esquilino & N Over the river, the picture-perfect San Lorenzo (p136) Trastevere neighbourhood bursts with life in the evening as locals and tour- N Stay put in Monti, where there’s ists flock to its many eateries and bars. Get plenty of late-night action. Take into the mood with a glass of Tuscan red your pick of wine bar or cafe to see out

20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd If You Like... Museums & wall mosaics headline at this Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Galleries overlooked gem. (p138) Villa Giulia A lovely museum Capitoline Museums The world’s housing a wonderful collection of Vatican Museums This vast oldest public museums are a Etruscan art and artefacts. (p182) museum complex’s historic col- must for anyone interested in lection of classical art culminates ancient sculpture. (p61) Roman Relics in the Sistine Chapel. (p122) Galleria Doria Pamphilj This lav- ish private gallery is full of major Colosseum Rome’s great gladi- Museo e Galleria Borghese works by big-name Italian and atorial amphitheatre encapsu- Boasts the best baroque sculp- Flemish artists. (p82) lates all the blood and thunder of ture in town and some seriously ancient Rome. (p52) good Old Masters. (p178) Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Anti- Pantheon With its revolutionary ca: Palazzo Barberini A baroque design, this awe-inspiring temple Museo Nazionale Romano: palace laden with paintings by gi- has served as an architectural Palazzo Massimo alle Terme ants such as Caravaggio, Raphael blueprint for millennia. (p72) Fabulous Roman frescoes and and Hans Holbein. (p105) BRIAN KINNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK © Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti (p102) looms over the Spanish Steps (p98).

21 Palatino Ancient emperors lived Going For more top Rome spots, PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like... on the Palatino, the oldest and Underground see the following: most exclusive part of imperial ¨¨Eating (p28) Rome. (p54) Basilica di San Clemente ¨¨Drinking & Nightlife (p36) Terme di Caracalla The hulking Descend into the bowels of this ¨¨Entertainment (p40) remains of this baths complex multilayered basilica to discover ¨¨Shopping (p44) hint at the colossal scale of the a pagan temple and 1st-century ancient city. (p169) house. (p170) Campo de’ Fiori Market-stall Roman Forum This was ancient Vatican Grottoes Extending holders holler at each other dur- Rome’s bustling centre full of beneath St Peter’s Basilica, ing the day and student drinkers temples, basilicas, shops and these underground chambers strut their stuff by night. (p77) streets. (p57) contain the tombs of several Porta Portese Market Crowds Domus Aurea Nero’s sprawling popes. (p121) take to the streets each Sunday Golden House was extravagant Catacombs Via Appia Antica is to explore the stalls at Rome’s even by ancient Roman riddled with catacombs where weekly flea market. (p163) standards. (p140) the early Christians buried their Via Appia Antica March down dead. (p190) Sweeping Views Rome’s oldest road, built in the Palazzo Valentini A multimedia 4th century BC, en route to the display brings excavated ruins Vittoriano Not recommended catacombs. (p189) to life beneath a stately 16th- for vertigo sufferers, the summit century mansion. (p104) of this marble monolith towers Church Art Case Romane Poke around over the rest of Rome. (p66) the houses where two Roman Gianicolo Hill Rising above Sistine Chapel Michelangelo’s martyrs lived before they were Trastevere, the Gianicolo Hill af- frescoes are among the world’s executed. (p170) fords sweeping panoramas over most famous works of art. Tomb of St Peter Guided tours Rome’s rooftops. (p157) (p126) take you beneath St Peter’s Orti Farnesiani A viewing ter- St Peter’s Basilica Marvel at Basilica to what many claim is race in the Palatino’s medieval Michelangelo’s Pietà and many St Peter’s tomb. (p121) gardens commands grandstand other celebrated masterpieces. views over the Roman Forum. (p118) Street Life (p55) Chiesa di San Luigi dei St Peter’s Basilica Climb the Francesi An ornate baroque Trastevere Students, tourists, dome and you’re rewarded with church boasting a trio of Cara- locals, diners, drinkers, junkies huge 360-degree views. (p118) vaggio paintings. (p76) and street-hawkers mingle on Parco Savello Bask in memo- Basilica di Santa Maria del Trastevere’s vivacious streets. rable sunset views from this Popolo Works by Caravaggio, (p156) romantic garden on the Aventino Raphael and Bernini adorn Spanish Steps Find a space hill. (p171) this magnificent Renaissance and settle back to watch the Castel Sant’Angelo Rome church. (p99) ever-changing spectacle on the spreads out before you from Basilica di San Pietro in square below. (p98) the panoramic terrace of this Vincoli Face up to Michelange- Piazza Navona This beautiful operatic castle. (p130) lo’s muscular Moses scuplture. baroque arena provides the (p140) stage for a colourful cast of Basilica di Santa Maria in street artists, performers, wait- Trastevere An ancient basilica ers and tourists. (p74) celebrated for its golden apse Pigneto With its noisy market mosaics. (p154) and vibrant bar scene, this hip Basilica di Santa Prassede district is always lively. (148) An off-the-radar gem with some of the city’s finest Byzantine mosaics. (p140)

22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Month By Month TOP EVENTS z Carnevale and Rome’s birthday festivities. Expect high- Carnevale Romano, Romano season prices. February Rome goes to town for Natale di Roma, April carnival, with horse shows, z Easter Lungo il Tevere, June to costumed parades, street September performers, fireworks and Easter is a big deal in Festa de’ Noantri, July kids in fancy dress. Action Rome. On Good Friday Romaeuropa, September is centred on Piazza del the pope leads a candlelit to December Popolo, Via del Corso, Pi- procession around the Col- azza di Spagna and Piazza osseum, and there are other January Navona. smaller parades around the city. At noon on Easter As New Year celebrations March Sunday the Pope blesses the fade, the winter cold digs crowds in St Peter’s Square. in. It’s a quiet time of year The onset of spring but the winter sales are a brings blooming flowers, 1 Mostra delle welcome diversion. rising temperatures and unpredictable rainfall. Azalee 7 Shopping Sales Unless Easter falls in late From mid-April to early March, the city is fairly May, the Spanish Steps are Running from early subdued and low-season decorated with hundreds of January, typically the first prices still apply. vases of blooming, brightly Saturday of the month, to coloured azaleas. mid-February, the winter 2 Maratona di Roma fashion sales offer savings z Natale di Roma of between 20% and 50%. Sightseeing becomes sport at Rome’s annual mara- Rome celebrates its birth- February thon, held in late March or day on 21 April with music, early April. The 42km route historical re-creations and Rome’s winter quiet is starts and finishes near the fireworks. Events are held shattered by high-spirited Colosseum, taking in many at Via dei Fori Imperiali carnival celebrations of the city’s big sights. and the city’s ancient sites. and weekend invasions Details online at www. by cheerful rugby fans maratonadiroma.it. May in town for the annual Six Nations rugby April May is a busy, high-season tournament. month. The weather’s April is a great month in perfect – usually warm Rome, with lovely, sunny enough to eat outside weather, fervent Easter – and the city is looking celebrations, azaleas gorgeous with blue skies on the Spanish Steps and spring flowers.

3 Primo Maggio 23 Thousands of fans troop to physical endeavour, but installations, multimedia PLAN YOUR TRIP Month By Month Piazza di San Giovanni in come the cool of evening, shows and recitals. Laterano for Rome’s free the city’s streets burst May Day rock concert. It’s into life as locals come 3 Festa del Cinema a mostly Italian affair with out to enjoy festivities. big-name local performers, di Roma but you might catch the oc- z Festa de’ Noantri Held at the Auditorium casional foreign guest star. Parco della Musica in late Trastevere celebrates its October, Rome’s film festi- June roots with a raucous street val rolls out the red carpet party in the last two weeks for Hollywood hotshots and Summer has arrived and of the month. Events kick bigwigs from Italian cin- with it hot weather and off with a religious proces- ema. Consult the program the Italian school holidays. sion and continue with on its website. The city’s festival season much eating, drinking, breaks into full stride with dancing and praying. November many outdoor events. August Although the wettest 3 Lungo il Tevere month, November has Rome melts in the heat its compensations – low- Nightly crowds converge as locals flee the city for season prices, excellent on the river Tiber for this their summer hols. Many jazz concerts and no popular summer-long businesses shut down queues outside the big event. Stalls, clubs, bars, around 15 August but sights. restaurants, cinemas, even hoteliers offer discounts dance floors line the river and there are loads of 3 Roma Jazz bank as Rome’s nightlife summer events to enjoy. goes alfresco. Festival z Festa della For jazz fans, the Audito- 3 Roma Incontra rium Parco della Musica is Madonna della Neve the place to be in November il Mondo On 5 August rose petals are as performers from around From late June to mid- showered on celebrants in the world play to apprecia- September Villa Ada is the Basilica di Santa Maria tive audiences during the transformed into a colour- Maggiore to commemorate three-week Roma Jazz Fes- ful multi-ethnic village for a miraculous 4th-century tival. See www.romajazz this annual event. There’s a snowfall. festival.it for further details. laid-back party vibe and an excellent program of gigs October December ranging from reggae to jazz and world music. Autumn is a good time to The build-up to Christmas visit – the warm weather feels festive, as the city z Festa dei Santi is holding, Romaeuropa twinkles in anticipation. ensures plenty of cultural Every church displays its Pietro e Paolo action and, with the own presepe (nativity On 29 June Rome cel- schools back, there are far scene), from intricate ebrates its two patron fewer tourists around. small tableaux to life-size saints, Peter and Paul, with extravaganzas. flower displays on St Peter’s 3 Romaeuropa Square, fireworks at Castel z Piazza Navona Sant’Angelo and festivities Established international near the Basilica di San performers join emerging Christmas Fair Paolo Fuori-le-Mura. stars at Rome’s premier Rome’s most beautiful dance and drama festi- baroque square becomes a July val. Events, staged across big, brash marketplace as town from late September brightly lit market stalls Hot summer temperatures through to early December, set up shop, selling every- make sightseeing a range from avant-garde thing from nativity scenes dance performances to to stuffed toys and teeth- cracking torrone (nougat).

24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd With TRAVNIKOVSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK © History for Kids Kids Colosseum Despite a reputation as a Everyone wants to see the Colosseum highbrow cultural destination, (p52) and it doesn’t disappoint, especial- Rome has a lot to offer kids. ly if accompanied by tales of bloodthirsty Child-specific sights might be gladiators and hungry lions. For maximum thin on the ground but if you effect prep your kids beforehand with a know where to go there’s plenty to Rome-based film. keep the little ’uns occupied and parents happy. Catacombs Spook your teens with a trip to the cata- Enjoying some gelato combs on Via Appia Antica (p189). These creepy tunnels, full of tombs and ancient burial chambers, are fascinating, but not suitable for children under about seven years old. Palazzo Valentini Parents and older kids will enjoy the multi- media tour of Roman excavations beneath Palazzo Valentini (p104). Museums for Kids Explora Near Piazza del Popolo, Explora – Museo dei Bambini di Roma (p182) is a hands- on museum for kids under 12, with interac- tive displays and a free play park. Museo delle Cere Go face to face with popes, rock stars and footy players at Rome’s cheesy wax mu- seum, the Museo delle Cere (Wax Museum; Map p300, D8; %06 679 64 82; www.museo dellecereroma.com; Piazza dei Santissimi Ap- ostoli 67; adult/reduced €9/4.50; h9am-9pm summer, to 8pm winter; gVia IV Novembre). Museo delle Mura Walk along a stretch of the Aurelian Wall at the Museo delle Mura (p194), a small museum housed in one of Rome’s ancient city gates. Hands-On Activities Trevi Fountain Join the crowds and throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain (p100). And if the kids ask, you can tell them that about €3000 is thrown in on an average day.

25 NOT FOR PARENTS PL A N YO U R TRI P W i t h K ids For an insight into Rome aimed directly at kids, pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s Not for Parents: Rome. Perfect for children aged eight years and up, it opens up a world of intriguing sto- ries and fascinating facts about Rome’s people, places, history and culture. Bocca della Verità hire family bikes. Other handy parks Put your hand in the Mouth of Truth are Villa Celimontana (p171) and Villa (p67), but don’t tell a fib or the Bocca Torlonia (p183). may just bite your hand off. According to legend, that is. Animal Spotting Food for Kids Animal Sculptures Try to spot as many animal sculptures as Pizza you can. There are hundreds around town, Pizza al taglio (sliced pizza) is a godsend including an elephant (outside the Chiesa for parents. It’s cheap (about €1 buys two di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva), lions small slices of pizza bianca – with salt (at the foot of the Cordonata staircase), and olive oil), easy to get hold of (there are bees (on Bernini’s fountain just off Piazza hundreds of takeaways around town), and Barberini), horses, eagles and, of course, works wonders on flagging spirits. Rome’s trademark wolf in the Capitoline Museums (p61). Gelato Ice cream is another manna from heaven, Cats served in coppette (tubs) or coni (cones). Cats have had the run of Rome’s streets for Child-friendly flavours include fragola centuries. These days they like to hang out (strawberry), cioccolato (chocolate), and in the ancient ruins on the Largo di Torre bacio (with hazelnuts). Argentina (p75). Park Adventures Zoo After all those churches and museums, When the time comes to let the kids off the the Bioparco (Map p316, E5; %06 360 82 11; leash, head to Villa Borghese (p181), the most central of Rome’s main parks. There’s www.bioparco.it; Viale del Giardino Zoologico 1; plenty of space to run around in – though adult/reduced €16/13; h9.30am-6pm summer, it’s not absolutely car-free – and you can to 5pm winter; jBioparco) in Villa Borghese offers some light relief. NEED TO KNOW Family Day Trips Getting Around Cobbled streets make Ostia Antica getting around with a pram or push- Many of Rome’s ancient sites can be boring chair difficult. for children but Ostia Antica (p200) is Eating Out In a restaurant ask for a different. Here your kids can run along the mezza porzione (child’s portion) and ancient town’s streets, among shops, and seggiolone (highchair). all over its impressive amphitheatre. Supplies Buy baby formula and steri- lising solutions at pharmacies. Dis- Tivoli posable nappies (diapers; pannolini) Kids will enjoy exploring the gardens at are available from supermarkets and Villa d’Este (p202) with their water- pharmacies. spouting fountains and grim-faced gar- Transport Under 10s travel free on all goyles. Nearby, the extensive ruins of Villa public transport in the city. Adriana (p201) provide ample opportu- nity for hide and seek.

26 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Like a Cool Neighbourhoods Local Trastevere A picturesque district full of bars, cafes and trattorias, Trastevere has long been a foreigners’ favourite. But Romans love it too, and amid the tourist bustle you’ll find some characteristic city haunts. Ostiense With its disused factories, authentic trat- torias and university campus, Ostiense is home to hot clubs and hip bars, as well as several cultural gems. Gregarious and convivial, Pigneto Romans enjoy their city. They Pigneto, a former working-class district love hanging out in its piazzas southeast of Termini, is one of the capital’s and speeding around the streets coolest neighbourhoods, a bar-heavy pock- in small cars; they like to dress et frequented by bohemians, fun-seekers up and they adore going out. and trendsetting urbanites. They know theirs is a beautiful city, but they’re not jealous and Testaccio everyone is welcome. Down by the Tiber, once-proletarian Testaccio is a local foodie hotspot with its market stalls, traditional Roman trat- torias and ever-popular Pizzeria Da Remo (p173). Drink Like a Local Evening Passeggiata Coffee The passeggiata (traditional evening Prendere un caffè (having a coffee) is one stroll) is a quintessential Roman experi- of the great rituals of Roman life. As a rule, ence. It’s particularly colourful at week- locals will stop at a bar for a coffee in the ends when families, friends and lovers take morning before work, and then again after to the streets to strut up and down, slurp lunch. To fit in with the crowd, ask for un on gelato and window-shop. caffè (the term espresso is rarely used) and drink standing at the bar. Also, never order To partake in the spectacle, head to Via a cappuccino after lunch. del Corso around 6pm. Alternatively, park yourself on the Spanish Steps and watch For a taste of Rome’s finest, head to the theatrics unfold beneath you on Piazza Caffè Sant’Eustachio (p88) in the histor- di Spagna (p98). ic centre or Sciascia Caffè (p133) in Prati. Football at the Stadio Aperitivo Olimpico Early evening means aperitivo (pre- dinner drinks) in many of Rome’s fashion- Football is a Roman passion, with sup- able bars. Hotspots include Gatsby Café port divided between the two local teams: (p148), a chic new cafe-bar on Piazza Vit- Roma and Lazio. Both play their home torio Emanuele II, and Momart (p185), a games at the Stadio Olimpico (p186), popular bar off Via Nomentana. For a clas- Rome’s impressive Olympic stadium. If you sic Roman drink, try a Negroni. go to a game, make sure you get it right – Roma play in red and yellow and their supporters stand in the Curva Sud (South Stand); Lazio play in sky blue and their fans fill the Curva Nord (North Stand).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 27 For Free Vatican Museums Home to the Sistine Chapel and kilometres Rome is an expensive city, but of awesome art, the Vatican Museums you don’t have to break the bank (p122) are free on the last Sunday of the to enjoy it. A surprising number month. of its big sights are free and it costs nothing to stroll the historic State Museums streets, piazzas and parks, Eight of Rome’s municipal museums are basking in their extraordinary free, including Museo Carlo Bilotti (Map beauty. p316, D6; %06 06 08; www.museocarlobilotti. it; Viale Fiorello La Guardia; h10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun winter, 1-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am- 7pm Sat & Sun summer; gVia Pinciana) and Museo Barracco di Scultura Antica (Map p296, D6; www.museobarracco.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166; admission free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun winter, 1-7pm Tue-Sun summer; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) F. All state-run mu- seums are gratis on the first Sunday of the month. Monuments Pantheon A pagan temple turned church, the Pan- theon (p72) is a staggering work of archi- tecture and an astonishing sight with its cavernous interior and soaring dome. Need to Know Trevi Fountain You don’t have to spend a penny to admire Transport the Trevi Fountain (p100), although most Holders of the Roma Pass (p17) are people throw a coin in to ensure they’ll entitled to free public transport. return to Rome. Wi-Fi Bocca della Verità Free wi-fi is available in many hostels, According to legend, if you tell a lie at the hotels, bars and cafes. Bocca della Verità (p67; Mouth of Truth), it’ll bite your hand off. Tours Piazzas & Parks To take a free tour check out www. newromefreetour.com. Piazzas Hanging out and people-watching on Art & Museums Rome’s piazzas is a signature Roman ex- perience. Top spots include Piazza Navona Churches (p74), Campo de’ Fiori (p77), Piazza di Spag- Feast on fine art in the city’s churches. na (p98), and Piazza del Popolo (p101). They’re all free and many contain priceless treasures by big-name artists such as Mi- Parks chelangelo, Raphael, Bernini and Caravag- It doesn’t cost a thing to enjoy Rome’s gio. Major art churches include St Peter’s parks. The most famous is Villa Borghese Basilica (p118), Basilica di San Pietro in (p181) but also worth searching out are Vincoli (p140), Chiesa di San Luigi dei Villa Torlonia (p183), Villa Celimontana Francesi (p76), and Basilica di Santa Maria (p171), Gianicolo Hill (p157), and Via Appia del Popolo (p99). Antica (p189).

28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd BELT944/SHUTTERSTOCK © Fresh vegetables and Italian pasta on display Eating This is a city that lives to eat. Food feeds the Roman soul, and a social occasion would be nothing without it. Cooking with local, seasonal ingredients has been the norm for millennia. Over recent decades the restaurant scene has become increasingly sophisticated, but the city’s traditional no-frills trattorias still provide some of Rome’s most memorable gastronomic experiences. Roman Cuisine carbonara (pasta with pig’s cheek, egg and Like most Italian cuisines, the cucina ro- salty pecorino romano, a type of sheep’s milk mana (Roman cooking) was born of careful cheese), alla gricia (with pig’s cheek and use of local ingredients – making use of the onions), amatriciana (invented when a chef cheaper cuts of meat, like guanciale (pig’s from Amatrice added tomatoes to alla gri- cheek), and greens that could be gathered cia) and cacio e pepe (with pecorino romano wild from the fields. cheese and black pepper). As wonderful and deeply gratifying as these timeless dishes There are a few classic Roman dishes are the centuries-old dining traditions that that almost every trattoria and restaurant in have been meticulously preserved alongside Rome serves. These carb-laden comfort foods them: many trattorias in Rome, as tradition are seemingly simple, yet notoriously difficult demands, only cook up gnocchi (dumplings) to prepare well. Iconic Roman dishes include on Thursdays, baccalà with ceci (salted cod

29 with chickpeas) on Fridays, and tripe on NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING Saturdays. Prices DINING IN ROME The pricing here refers to the average cost of a meal that includes primo (first The number of special-occasion, fine-dining course), secondo (second course) and restaurants is ever rising in Rome. Five dolce (dessert), plus a glass of wine. Don’t chefs in Rome were awarded their first be surprised to see pane e coperto (bread Michelin star in 2017, while chef Riccardo and cover charge; €1 to €5 per person) di Giacinto at All’Oro (p185) raised the added to your bill. gastronomic bar by moving premises and incorporating a gorgeous, 14-room boutique € less than €25 hotel into his new foodie empire. At Palazzo Manfredi, enviably across the street from €€ €25–€45 the Colosseum, chef Giuseppe Di Iorio con- tinues to create buzz at Michelin-starred €€€ more than €45 Aroma (p173), as does Francesco Apreda at Imàgo (p109) – views from both addresses Opening Hours are as sensational as the mind-blowing cui- ¨¨Most restaurants open noon to 3pm sine. Favouring a modern Roman cuisine, and 7.30pm to 11pm, usually closing one these top chefs look to traditional Roman day per week (often Sunday or Monday). dishes or ingredients for inspiration and ¨¨In August most eateries close for at play with unexpected flavours and combi- least a week; some close for the entire nations to create a highly creative, gastro- month. Ring first to check that everyone nomic dining experience. hasn’t gone to the beach. All-day dining is increasingly popular, Etiquette with a few notable all-things-to-all-people ¨¨Dress up to dine out. restaurants including Baccano (p110), Porto ¨¨Bite through hanging spaghetti – no Fluviale (p197) and the multistorey mall slurping it up please. Eataly (p197), which has restaurants to suit ¨¨Pasta is eaten with a fork (no spoon). almost every mood, from a hankering for ¨¨It’s OK to eat pizza with your hands. fritti (fried things) to fine dining. Dazzling ¨¨In Italian homes, fare la scarpetta new food mall Mercato Centrale (p145) at (make a little shoe) with your bread to Stazione Termini, meanwhile, brings many wipe plates clean. of the city’s finest culinary artisans under ¨¨If invited to someone’s home, tradi- one roof, including master pizza-maker tional gifts are a tray of dolci (sweets) Gabriele Bonci of Pizzarium (p132) fame. from a pasticceria (pastry shop), a bot- tle of wine or flowers. Gourmet fast food also thrives as Ro- man traditions are turned on their head to Tipping inspire highly creative and gourmet quick- Although service is included, leave a tip: eats at wildly popular addresses like Sup- anything from 5% in a pizzeria to 10% in plizio (p85), serving posh supplì (fried rice a more upmarket place. At least round up balls), Trapizzino (p173), with the doughy, the bill. cone-shaped trapizzino (‘sandwich’), Pasta Chef (p144), for quality pasta to go, and Zia derlines her commitment to making haute Rosetta (p143) with gourmet mini panini cuisine accessible to all. (sandwiches). Health food is another big craze, pio- In Testaccio’s covered market, Michelin- neered by players like Green & Go (p144) starred female chef Cristina Bowerman – and Aromaticus (p143), which is inside a one of the few Italian female chefs to have plant shop to boot. a Michelin star for her restaurant Glass Hostaria (p160) in Trastevere – is now woo- For the sweet toothed, pasticcerie (pastry ing local foodies with cardboard cups of shops) are also being reinvented as places of gourmet soups and savoury dishes at Cups chic artistry, with Pasticceria De Bellis (p85) (p173). The celebrity chef’s latest venture, the vanguard of this trend. In the centro Romeo e Giulietta – a vast restaurant, pizzeria, bakery, deli and cocktail bar rolled into one, opened in March 2017 on Piazza dell’Emporio in Testaccio – only further un-

30 FASTING & FEASTING for the faint-hearted is pasta with pajata, made with the entrails of young veal calves, The classic way to celebrate any feast considered a delicacy since they contain day in Italy is to precede it with a day the mother’s congealed milk. If you see the of eating magro (lean) to prepare for word coratella in a dish, it means you’ll be the overindulgence to come. On Vigilia eating lights (lungs), kidneys and hearts. PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING (Christmas Eve), for example, tradition Seasonal Calendar dictates that you eat little during the day As is the case all over Italy, Romans eat and have a fish-based dinner as a pre- according to what’s in season. Fresh, often lude to the excesses of the 25th. sun-ripened ingredients zing with flavour, and the best food is zero-chilometri – the Most festivals have some kind of food less distance it has had to travel, the better. involved, but many of them have no other excuse than food. These are called sagre (feasting festivals) and are usually SPRING celebrations of local specialities such as ¨¨Spring is prime time for lamb, usually roasted hazelnuts, wine and sausages. with potatoes – agnello al forno con patate. Sometimes it’s described as abbacchio (Roman storico Tiramisù Zum (p85) only serves the dialect for lamb) scottadito (‘hot enough to burn classic Italian dessert, in every imaginable fingers’). flavour. In fashionable Monti, a knowing ¨¨March is the best month for carciofo alla giudia crowd hobnobs over exquisite tiramisu (Jewish-style artichokes), when the big round miniatures and one-bite pralines at Grezzo artichokes from Cerveteri appear on the table (p144), a chocolate boutique where every- (smaller varieties are from Sardinia), but you can thing is raw, organic and gluten-free. continue eating this delicious dish until June. NEIGHBOURHOOD SPECIALITIES ¨¨May and June are favourable fishing months, and thus good for cuttlefish and octopus, as well Most entrenched in culinary tradition is the as other seafood. Jewish Ghetto area, with its hearty Roman- ¨¨Grass-green fave (broad beans) are eaten Jewish cuisine. Deep-frying is a staple of after a meal (especially on 1 May), accompanied cucina ebraico-romanesca (Roman-Jewish by some salty pecorino cheese. cooking), which developed between the ¨¨The lighter green, fluted zucchine romanesche 16th and 19th centuries when the Jews (Roman courgette) appear on market stalls, were confined to the city’s ghetto. To add usually with the flowers still attached – these flavour to their limited ingredients – those orange petals, deep-fried, are a delectable spurned by the rich, such as courgette (zuc- feature of Roman cooking. chini) flowers – they began to fry everything from mozzarella to baccalà (salted cod). SUMMER Particularly addictive are the locally grown ¨¨Tonno (tuna) comes fresh from the seas around artichokes, which are flattened out to form a Sardinia; linguine ai frutti di mare and risotto alla kind of flower shape and then deep-fried to pescatora are good light summer dishes. a golden crisp and salted to become carci- ¨¨Summertime is melanzane (aubergine ofo alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes). or eggplant) time: tuck into them grilled as By contrast, carciofo alla romana (Roman- antipasti or fried and layered with rich tomato style artichokes) are stuffed with parsley, sauce in melanzane alla parmagiana. It’s also mint and garlic, then braised in an aromatic time for leafy greens, and Rome even has its own mix of broth and white wine until soft. lettuce, the sturdy, flavourful lattuga romana. ¨¨Tomatoes are at their full-bodied finest, and For the heart (and liver and brains) of seductive heaps of pesche (peaches), albicocche the cucina romana, head to Testaccio, a (apricots), fichi (figs) and meloni (melons) traditional working-class district clustered dominate market stalls. around the city’s former slaughterhouse. In the past, butchers who worked in the city AUTUMN abattoir were often paid in cheap cuts of ¨¨Alla cacciatora (hunter-style) dishes are meat as well as money. The Roman staple sourced from Lazio’s hills, with meats such as coda alla vaccinara translates as ‘oxtail cinghiale (boar) and lepre (hare). cooked butcher’s style’. This is cooked for hours to create a rich sauce with tender sliv- ers of meat. A famous Roman dish that’s not

31 Eating by Neighbourhood ú# Villa Borghese & Northern Rome PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING Park cafes and smart, Vatican City, Borgo & Prati fashionable restaurants (p184) Sophisticated restaurants, delicious takeaways, heavenly gelaterie (p131) ú#ú# ú#ú# 11111 1111 11111 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale 1111 ú#ú# Classy neighbourhood 11111 eateries, great gelaterie 1111 Centro Storico and upmarket cafes (p105) 11111 1111 Romantic hideaways, 11111 old-school trattorias, ú##ú top pizzerias (p82) Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ú#ú# #ú#ú Ethnic eats, cool bars, boho restaurants (p143) Trastevere & Gianicolo Ancient Rome Touristy but terrific Hidden gems among the tourist traps (p67) trattorias, gelaterie, bars and pizzerias (p158) ú##ú San Giovanni & Testaccio 1 Tr1aditional Roman cuisine 1 1and top street food (p172) 111 1 11 ú##ú e# 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles Southern Rome Trendsetting foodie venues in ex-industrial Ostiense district (p196) ¨¨Fish is also good in autumn; you could try fried dough sprinkled with sugar), eaten at carnival fish from Fiumicino, such as triglia (red mullet), time. or mixed small fish, such as alici (anchovies). ¨¨Autumn equals mushrooms – the meaty When to Eat porcini, galletti and ovuli. Heaping the markets For colazione (breakfast), most Romans are broccoletti (also called broccolini), a cross head to a bar for a cappuccino and cornetto between broccoli and asparagus, uva (grapes), (croissant). pere (pears) and nuts. The main meal of the day is pranzo WINTER (lunch), eaten at about 1.30pm. Many shops ¨¨Winter is the ideal time to eat cockle-warming and businesses close for one to three hours dishes with ceci (chickpeas) and vegetable-rich every afternoon to accommodate the meal minestrone, as well as herb-roasted porchetta di and siesta that follows. On Sundays pranzo Ariccia (pork from Ariccia). is particularly important. ¨¨Puntarelle (‘little points’ – Catalonian chicory), found only in Lazio, is a delicious, Many restaurants offer ‘brunch’ at week- faintly bitter winter green. ends, but this isn’t the breakfast-lunch ¨¨Markets are piled high with broccolo combination featuring pancakes and eggs romanesco (Roman broccoli), aranci (oranges) that English and American visitors might and mandarini (mandarins). expect. Brunch in Rome tends to mean a ¨¨In February, look out for frappé (strips of fried buffet, available from around noon to 3pm. Aperitivo is a buffet of snacks to accom- pany evening drinks, usually from around

32 PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING 6pm till 9pm, and costing around €10 for a Ristoranti offer more choices and smarter drink and unlimited platefuls. service, and are more expensive. Cena (dinner), eaten any time from PIZZERIAS about 8.30pm, is usually simple, although this is changing as fewer people make it Remarkably, pizza was only introduced to home for the big lunchtime feast. Rome post-WWII, by southern immigrants. It caught on. Every Roman’s favourite A full Italian meal consists of an an- casual (and cheap) meal is the gloriously tipasto (starter), a primo piatto (first simple pizza, with Rome’s signature wafer- course), a secondo piatto (second course) thin bases, covered in fresh, bubbling top- with an insalata (salad) or contorno (veg- pings, slapped down on tables by waiters etable side dish), dolci (sweet), fruit, coffee on a mission. Pizzerias often only open in and digestivo (liqueur). When eating out, the evening, as their wood-fired ovens take however, you can do as most Romans do, a while to get going. and mix and match: order, say, a primo fol- lowed by an insalata or contorno. Most Romans will precede their pizza with a starter of bruschetta or fritti (mixed Where to Eat fried foods, such as zucchini flowers, potato, Take your pick according to your mood and olives etc) and wash it all down with beer your pocket, from the frenetic energy of a – only craft beer in the case of the city’s Roman pizzeria to the warm familiarity of trendiest new pizzerias. Pizza menus are a third-generation-run, centuries-old tratto- traditionally divided into pizza rosso (‘red’ ria, from chic bars laden with a sumptuous pizza meaning with tomato sauce) and apertivi banquets to modern bistros and pizza bianco (‘white’ pizza with no tomato gastronomic dines where both presentation sauce, traditionally simply sprinkled with and flavours are works of art. rosemary, salt and olive oil, but available with a variety of optional toppings today). ENOTECHE Some places in Rome – including trendy new Sbanco (p172) by Stefano Callegari of Romans rarely drink without eating, and Trapizzino (p173) fame – serve pizza with you can eat well at many enoteche, wine a thicker, fluffier base, more Neapolitan in bars that usually serve snacks (such as style. cheeses or cold meats, bruschette and crostini) and hot dishes. Some, such as For a snack on the run, Rome’s pizza Palatium (p109) or Casa Bleve (p85), offer al taglio (by the slice) places are hard to full-scale dining. beat, with toppings loaded atop thin, crispy, light-as-air, slow-risen bread that verge on TRATTORIAS, OSTERIAS & RESTAURANTS the divine. There’s been an increase of more gourmet pizza places in the last decade, Traditionally, trattorias were family-run their king being Gabriele Bonci’s Pizzarium places that offered a basic, affordable lo- (p132), close to the Vatican and inside Mer- cal menu, while osterie usually specialised cato Centrale (p145). in one dish and vino della casa (house wine). There are still lots of these around. ROMAN FOOD BLOGS Katie Parla (http://katieparla.com) On-the-pulse restaurant reviews and culinary insights by food-and-beverage journalist Katie, a Rome-based, New Jersey native and author of the highly recommended Tasting Rome (2017). Eizabeth Minchilli in Rome (www.elizabethminchilliinrome.com) Reliable dining recom- mendations by the author of Eating Rome, an American food writer at home in Italy. Gillian’s Lists (www.gillianslists.com) Rome-based blogger with a penchant for beaches, coffee and cocktails. Heart Rome (www.heartrome.com) Food and lifestyle in the eternal city seen through the smart eyes of Australian Maria Pasquale. An American in Rome (http://anamericaninrome.com) Bar and restaurant reviews by freelance writer Natalie Kennedy who arrived in Rome, fresh from California, in 2010.

33 FAST FOOD ¨¨Mercato di Campo de’ Fiori (p85) The most PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING picturesque, but also the most expensive. Prices Fast food is a long-standing Roman tradi- are graded according to the shopper’s accent. tion, with plenty of street-food favourites. ¨¨Nuovo Mercato Esquilino (p151) Cheap and the best place to find exotic herbs and spices. A tavola calda (hot table) offers cheap, ¨¨Piazza dell’ Unità (Map p304) Near the pre-prepared pasta, meat and vegetable Vatican, perfect for stocking up for a picnic. dishes, while a rosticceria sells mainly ¨¨Mercato di Piazza San Cosimato (p160) cooked meats. Neither is best for a roman- Trastevere’s neighbourhood market, at least tic meal, but they’re often very tasty. a century old and still the biz for fresh, locally sourced foodstuffs. Another favourite on the run are aranci- ¨¨Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio (p175) A ni, fried risotto balls that have fillings such purpose-built covered market hall crammed with as mozzarella and ham. These originate enticing stalls, including many serving gourmet from Sicily, but are much loved in Rome ‘fast food’ to go. too, where they’re known as supplì. Vegetarian, Vegan & GELATERIE Gluten-Free Dining Vegetarians eat exceedingly well in Rome, Eating gelato is as much a part of Roman life with a wide choice of bountiful antipasti, as morning coffee – try it and you’ll under- pasta dishes, insalate, contorni (side dish- stand why. The city has some of the world’s es) and pizzas. Some high-end restaurants finest ice-cream shops, which use only the such as Imàgo (p109) even serve a vegetar- finest seasonal ingredients, sourced from the ian menu, and slowly but surely, exclusively finest locations. In these artisan gelaterie you vegetarian and/or vegan eateries and cafes won’t find a strawberry flavour in winter, for are cropping up: try Babette (p106) and Il example, and pistachios are from Bronte, Margutta (p106) near the Spanish Steps, or almonds from Avola, and so on. It’s all come Vitaminas 24 (p148) in edgy Pigneto. a long way since Nero snacked on snow mixed with fruit pulp and honey. A rule of Be mindful of hidden ingredients not thumb is to check the colour of the pistachio mentioned on the menu – for example, flavour: ochre-green means ‘good’, bright- steer clear of anything that’s been stuffed green means ‘bad’. In the height of summer (like courgette flowers, often spiced up with Romans love to eat grattachecca (literally anchovies) or check that it’s senza carne o ‘scratched ice’), with kiosks selling crushed pesce (without meat or fish). To many Ital- ice topped with fruit and syrup along the ians, vegetarian means you don’t eat red riverside open from May to September. It’s a meat. great way to cool down. Vegans are in for a tougher time. Cheese Most places open from around 8am to is used universally, so you must specify that 1am, with shorter hours in winter. Prices you want something senza formaggio (with- range from around €2 to €3.50 for a cona out cheese). Also remember that pasta fres- (cone) or coppetta (tub or cup). ca, which may also turn up in soups, is made with eggs. The safest bet is to self-cater or try DELIS & MARKETS a dedicated vegetarian restaurant, which will always have some vegan options. Rome’s well-stocked delis and fresh- produce markets are a fabulous feature Most restaurants offer gluten-free op- of the city’s foodscape. Most neighbour- tions, as there is a good awareness of celiac hoods have a few local delis and their own disease here: one of the city’s top restau- daily food market. For deli supplies and rants, Aroma (p173), has a four-course, wine, shop at alimentari, which generally gluten-free menu (€115). Just say Io sono open 7am to 1.30pm and 5pm to 8pm daily celiaco or senza glutine when you sit down, except Thursday afternoon and Sunday and usually the waiters will be able to rec- (during the summer months they will often ommend suitable dishes. close on Saturday afternoon instead of Thursday). Markets operate from around 7am to 1.30pm, Monday to Saturday. There are also some excellent farmers’ markets, mostly taking place at the weekends. Rome’s most famous markets:

34 PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING Lonely Planet’s €€€ Ristorante L’Arcangelo (p132) Top Choices Updated takes on classic Roman Metamorfosi (p185) Roy dishes at this Prati hotspot. Pianostrada (p86) Urban bistro Caceres’ stupendously good Pianostrada (p86) Uber fash- chic in the centro storico. Michelin-starred cooking. ionable, bistro-and-bar dining on Panella (p145) The ultimate Salumeria Roscioli (p86) Gour- funky Roman-inspired plates to budget-dine ticket, any time met Italian food at a vaunted share or scoff alone. of day. deli-restaurant. Sbanco (p172) The hottest Enoteca La Torre (p132) Regional pizzeria of the moment with a Michelin-starred glamour in the buzzy, warehouse-vibe. Fendi sisters’ Villa Laetitia. Colline Emiliane (p110) Pizzarium (p132) Scissor-cut Sensational home cooking from chunks of pizza to go from Antonello Colonna Open Emilia-Romagna. Rome’s master pizza maker. (p146) Michelin-starred, ‘New Seacook (p197) Chic seafood La Ciambella (p83) Hybrid Roman’ dining beneath a daz- fresh from Salento in southern restaurant-bar by the Panethon. zling all-glass roof. Italy. Trattoria Monti (p146) Top- Best by Budget Best by Cuisine notch traditional cooking from the Marches, including heavenly € Traditional Roman fried things. Terre e Domus (p67) All ingre- Pizzarium (p132) Top-of-the- Flavio al Velavevodetto (p173) dients are sourced from the range pizza al taglio (pizza by Classic cucina romana, served surrounding Lazio region. the slice). in huge portions. La Prosciutteria (p159) Made- Panella (p145) Heavenly bakery Da Felice (p173) In the heart- to-measure taglieri (wooden serving fresh-baked food all land of Roman cuisine, and chopping boards) and panini day on a flowery, sun-flooded sticking to a traditional weekly loaded with Tuscan cold cuts, terrace. timetable. cheeses, fruit and veg at this Pasta Chef (p144) Fast-food Armando al Pantheon (p83) Florentine salami shop. pasta joint in the pretty heart Family-run trattoria offering Cotto Crudo (p131) Pick up a of Monti. hearty Roman cuisine in the panino with the best ham and Mordi e Vai (p173) Food stall shadow of the Pantheon. cheese from Emilia-Romagna. serving classic Roman fast food. Da Enzo (p158) Hugely popular Trastevere address, known for Best Pizzerias €€ quality sourced ingredients. Da Augusto (p159) Dreamy Sbanco (p172) Creative pizzas Pianostrada (p86) Creative summertime dining and fabulous and craft beer served in casual modern cuisine and a fashion- mamma-style cooking on one of bar-like setting. able bistro vibe. Trastevere’s prettiest piazzas. Emma Pizzeria (p86) Smart L’Asino d’Oro (p145) Umbrian outfit dishing up excellent creative cuisine at reasonable Modern Roman wood-fired pizzas in the historic prices (especially lunch). centre. La Ciambella (p83) Relaxed Glass Hostaria (p160) Innova- Pizzeria Da Remo (p173) Spar- all-day eatery in the shadow of tive cuisine by celebrity female tan but stunning: the frenetic the Pantheon. chef Cristina Bowerman in Roman pizzeria experience in Tram Tram (p147) Wildly her contemporary Trastevere, Testaccio. popular osteria (tavern) mixing Michelin-starred restaurant. Panattoni (p158) Streetside Roman classic with Sicilian tables and fabulous pizza haul seafood in student-filled San Antonello Colonna Open in the hoards to Trastevere’s Lorenzo. (p146) Antonello Colonna’s ‘l’obitorio’ (the morgue). Litro (p160) Creative Roman glass-roofed restaurant offers Alle Carette (p143) Top-notch kitchen in unknown Monteverde creative takes on Roman baccalà (salted cod) and with organic produce and classics. down-to-earth pizza, super-thin Rome’s best biodynamic wines. Renato e Luisa (p86) Always- packed trattoria that takes classic Roman cooking and mixes it up.

35 and swiftly cooked on Monti’s Beauty; dine beneath 15th- Best Food Shops PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING prettiest car-free street. century Pinturicchio frescoes. Antonello Colonna Open Eataly (p197) Mall-sized, state- Best Local Dining (p146) Restaurant on a mez- of-the-art food emporium, with zanine under a soaring glass produce from all over Italy, and Pizzeria Da Remo (p173) The ceiling in the Palazzo degli multiple restaurants. full neighbourhood Roman pizza Esposizioni. Salumeria Roscioli (p92) The experience, with lightning-fast Casa Bleve (p85) Gracious rich scents of fine Italian pro- waiters serving paper-thin colonnaded wine bar with a duce, cured meats and cheeses pizzas. stained-glass ceiling. intermingle in this superlative Da Felice (p173) Traditional Caffetteria Chiostro del deli. local cooking in Testaccio, the Bramante (p83) Hidden cafe Antica Caciara Trasteverina heartland of Roman cuisine. overlooking Bramante’s (p163) Century-old deli with Antico Forno Urbani (p86) graceful Renaissance cloister. fresh ricotta, to-die-for ricotta Queue up with the locals for infornata (oven-baked ricotta), pizza al taglio in the Ghetto. Best Gelaterie wheels of Lazio’s celebrated, Da Teo (p158) Reservations black-waxed pecorino romano essentials at this hugely popular Fatamorgana (p131) Rome’s DOP and aromatic garlands of trattoria with terrace seating on finest artisanal flavours, now in guanciale (pig’s jowl). a pretty Trastevere piazza. multiple central locations. Volpetti (p175) This super- Pizza Ostiense (p197) Fabulous Gelateria del Teatro (p84) stocked deli is a treasure trove thin-crust pizza in Rome’s ex- Around 40 choices of delicious of gourmet delicacies and industrial, hip neighbourhood of ice cream, all made on site. helpful staff. Ostiense. Gelateria Dei Gracchi (p106) A Confetteria Moriondo & Hostaria Romana (p109) Buzz- taste of heaven in several loca- Gariglio (p93) Revel in magical ing trattoria dining footsteps tions across Rome. chocolate creation at this from the Trevi Fountain. Fior di Luna (p160) Great arti- historic confectioners. san ice cream in Trastevere. Grezzo (p144) Raw chocolate in Best See & Be Seen Neve di Latte (p185) Classic every guise. flavours served near the MAXXI Said (p147) Hipster all-rounder art museum. Best Pastry Shops in a 1920s chocolate factory in San Lorenzo. Best Pizza by Pasticceria De Bellis (p85) Dal Bolognese (p107) Moneyed, the Slice Work-of-art cakes, pastries and moghuls and models mingle just dolci at this chic pasticceria. off Piazza del Popolo. Pizzarium (p132) Pizza slices Biscottificio Innocenti (p163) Il Sorpasso (p132) Cool vintage- created by the master, Gabriele Classic old-school Trastevere styled bar restaurant, haunt of Bonci. bakery, with piled-high biscuits Prati’s fashionable crowd. Forno Roscioli (p85) Thin and such as brutti ma buoni (ugly Temakinho (p144) Hip, crispy, this is some of the best but good). Brazilian-sushi hybrid in Monti pizza rossa (with tomato and I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza mixing powerful caipirinhas. oregano) in Rome, if not the (p85) Heavenly Sicilian pastries. world. Andreotti (p197) Poem-worthy Best for Ambience Forno di Campo de’ Fiori (p85) treats from buttery crostate Food-of-the-gods pizza rossa (tarts) to the piles of golden Aroma (p173) The Michelin- and bianca (with olive oil and sfogliatelle romane (ricotta- starred rooftop restaurant of rosemary). filled pastries). the Palazzo Manfredi hotel Antico Forno Urbani (p86) A Pasticceria Gruè (p185) has ‘marry-me’ views over the kosher bakery in the Ghetto with Modern pasticceria-cum-cafe Colosseum. incredible pizza bianca. with artfully crafted cakes and La Veranda (p131) A location pastries. in Paolo Sorrentino’s The Great

36 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd MURATART/SHUTTERSTOCK © Alfresco drinking and dining Drinking & Nightlife Often the best way to enjoy nightlife in Rome is to wander from restaurant to bar, getting happily lost down picturesque cobbled streets. There’s simply no city with better backdrops for a drink: you can savour a Campari overlooking the Roman Forum or sample some artisanal beer while watching the light bounce off baroque fountains. Rome After Dark hill of Monte Testaccio. There are also subtle Night-owl Romans tend to eat late, then drink political divisions. San Lorenzo and Pigneto, at bars before heading off to a club at around to the south of Rome, are popular with a left- 1am. Like most cities, Rome is a collection of leaning, alternative crowd, while areas to the districts, each with its own character, which north (such as Ponte Milvio and Parioli) at- is often completely different after dark. The tract a more right-wing, bourgeois mileu. centro storico (historic centre) and Trastevere pull in a mix of locals and tourists as night The bella figura (loosely translated as falls. Ostiense and Testaccio are the grittier ‘looking good’) is important. The majority of clubbing districts, with clusters of clubs in a locals spend evenings checking each other couple of locations – Testaccio has a parade out, partaking in gelato, and not drinking too of crowd-pleasing clubs running over the much. However, this is changing and certain areas – those popular with a younger crowd – can get rowdy with drunk teens and tourists

37 (for example, Campo de’ Fiori and parts of NEED TO KNOW Trastevere). Rome in Summer (& Winter) Opening Hours PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE From around mid-June to mid-September, ¨¨Most cafes: 7.30am to 8pm many nightclubs and live-music venues ¨¨Traditional bars: 7.30am to 1am or close, some moving to EUR or the beaches 2am at Fregene or Ostia. The area around the ¨¨Most bars, pubs and enoteche (wine Isola Tiberina throngs with life nightly bars): lunchtime or 6pm to 2am during the Lungo Il Tevere (p23), a summer ¨¨Nightclubs: 10pm to 4am festival along the riverbank, which sprouts bars, stalls and an open-air cinema. Dress Codes Romans tend to dress up to go out, and Be aware that in winter, bars often close most people will be looking pretty sharp in earlier in the evening, particularly in areas the smarter clubs and bars in the centro where the norm is to drink outside. That storico (historic centre) and Testaccio. said, an increasing number of bars have However, over in Pigneto and San Lorenzo heated pavement terraces in winter, ensur- or at the centri sociali (social centres), the ing year-round alfresco drinking. style is much more alternative. Where to Drink Online Resources ¨¨Romeing (www.romeing.it) Webazine ENOTECHE covering Rome nightlife and cultural happenings The enoteca (wine bar) was where the old ¨¨2night. (http://2night.it) Nightlife list- boys from the neighbourhood used to drink ings, in Italian only rough local wine poured straight from the barrel. Times have changed: nowadays ciali: grungy squatter arts centres that host they tend to be sophisticated but still live music and contemporary-arts events. atmospheric places, offering Italian and They offer Rome’s most unusual, cheap and international vintages, delicious cheeses alternative nightlife options. These include and cold cuts. Brancaleone (%339 5074012; www.branca leone.it; Via Levanna 11; hhours vary, typically BARS & PUBS 10pm-late; gVia Nomentana) and Esc Atelier (Map p311; www.escatelier.net; Via dei Volsci 159; Bars range from regular Italian cafe-bars hhours vary; gVia Tiburtina, jVia dei Reti). that have seemingly remained the same for centuries, to chic, carefully styled places What to Drink made for esoteric cocktails – such as Co.So (p149) and Salotto 42 (p90) – and laid-back, LAZIO WINES perennially popular haunts – such as Freni e Frizioni (p161) – that have a longevity Lazio wines may not be household names, rarely seen in other cities. Pubs are also but it’s well worth trying some local popular, with several long-running Irish- wines while you’re here. Although whites style pubs filled with chattering Romans, dominate Lazio’s production – 95% of the and more pub-like bars opening on the region’s Denominazione di Origine Control- back of the artistanal beer trend. lata (DOC; the second of Italy’s four quality classifications) wines are white – there NIGHTCLUBS are a few notable reds as well. To sample Lazio wines, Palatium (p109) and Terre e Rome has a range of nightclubs, mostly in Domus (p67) are the best places to go. For Ostiense and Testaccio, with music policies biodynamic vintages, head for Litro (p160) ranging from lounge and jazz to dancehall in Monteverdi. and hip-hop. Clubs tend to get busy after midnight, or even after 2am. Often admis- CRAFT BEER sion is free, but drinks are expensive. Cocktails can cost from €10 to €20, but you In recent years beer drinking has really tak- can drink much more cheaply in the stu- en off in Italy, and especially in Rome, with denty clubs of San Lorenzo, Pigneto and the specialised bars and restaurants offering centri sociali (social centres). microbrewed beers. Local favourites include CENTRI SOCIALI Rome’s flip side is a surprising alternative underbelly, centred on left-wing centri so-

38 Birradamare in Fiumicino, Porto Fluviale In summer, cappuccino freddo (iced (p197) in Ostiense, and Birra Del Borgo in coffee with milk, usually already sugared), Rieti (on the border between Lazio and caffè freddo (iced espresso) and granita di Abruzzo), which opened local beer haunts caffè (frozen coffee, usually with cream) top Bir & Fud (p162) and Open Baladin (p90). the charts. PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Local beers reflect the seasonality that’s so A caffè latte is a milkier version of the important in Rome – for example, in winter look for beers made from chestnuts. cappuccino with less froth; a latte macchia- to is even milkier (warmed milk ‘stained’ COCKTAILS, APERITIFS & DIGESTIVES with a spot of coffee). A caffè corretto is an espresso ‘corrected’ with a dash of grappa The cocktail scene in Rome has caught up or something similar. fast and is thriving, with mixologists shak- ing some superb local creations such as the There are two ways to drink coffee in Carbonara sour at Co.So (p149), featuring a Roman bar-cafe: either standing at the vodka infused with pork fat in a homage bar, in which case you pay first at the till to the classic Roman pasta sauce. It was and then, with your receipt, order at the fashionable speakeasy Jerry Thomas Project counter; or you can sit down at a table and (p90), well-placed in the centro storico, enjoy waiter service. In the latter case you’ll who kickstarted the cocktail revolution in pay up to double what you’d pay at the bar. Rome, and some of the finest and funkiest In both scenarios, a complimentary glass of cocktails remain underground in speakeasy tap water is invariably served with your cof- bars like Keyhole (p161) in Trastevere and fee – if it isn’t, don’t be shy to ask for one. Spirito (p148), brilliantly at home in the Gay & Lesbian Rome back of a sandwich shop in Pigneto. Gin There is only a smattering of dedicated gay cocktails are the speciality of the Gin Cor- and lesbian clubs and bars in Rome, though ner (p90), at home in the Hotel Adranio, many nightclubs host regular gay and while other cocktail hot spots, like Barnum lesbian nights. For local information, pick Cafe (p90) or Gatsby Café (p148), double as up a copy of the monthly magazine AUT, laid-back cafes by day. published by Circolo Mario Mieli (www. mariomieli.org). There’s also info at AZ Gay Popular aperitifs are based on bitter (www.azgay.it). Lesbians can find out more alcoholic liqueurs, such as Campari Soda about the local scene at Coordinamento or Aperol spritz, which mixes Aperol with Lesbiche Italiano (www.clrbp.it). prosecco. Crodino is a herbal, medicinal- tasting nonalcoholic aperitif. Italians love to Most gay venues (bars, clubs and saunas) finish off a meal with a digestif. The best of require you to have an Arcigay (p268) mem- these aren’t shop bought, so if it’s fatta in bership card. These cost €15/8 per year/ casa (made at home), give it a try. three months and are available from any COFFEE venue that requires one. For an espresso (a shot of strong black cof- Drinking & Nightlife by fee), ask for un caffè; if you want it with Neighbourhood a drop of hot or cold milk, order un caffè macchiato (‘stained’ coffee) caldo/freddo. ¨¨Centro Storico (p88) Bars and a few clubs, a Long black coffee (as in a watered-down mix of touristy and sophisticated. version) is known as caffè lungo (an espres- ¨¨Trastevere (p161) Everyone’s favourite place so with more water) or caffè all’american for a passeggiata (evening stroll), with plenty of (a filter coffee). If you fancy a coffee but bars and cafes. one more shot will catapult you through ¨¨Testaccio (p174) With a cluster of mainstream the ceiling, you can drink orzo, made from clubs, this nightlife strip offers poptastic choice. roasted barley but served like coffee. ¨¨Ostiense (p197) Home to Rome’s cooler nightclubs, housed in ex-industrial venues. Then, of course, there’s the cappuccino ¨¨San Lorenzo (p149) Favoured by students, (coffee with frothy milk, served warm rath- with a concentration of bars and alternative er than hot). If you want it without froth, clubs. ask for a cappuccino senza schiuma; if you want it hot, ask for it ben caldo. Italians drink cappuccino only during the morning and never after meals.

39 Lonely Planet’s makes for a great neighbour- Best Alternative PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Top Choices hood wine bar. Bibenda Wine Concept (p174) Rivendita Libri, Cioccolata Gatsby Café (p148) Fantastic Modern wine bar with a good e Vino (p161) Cream-topped coffee, cocktails and uber-chic choice of regional Italian labels. shots served in chocolate retro vibe in an upcycled 1950s Litro (p160) A drinking-dining shot glasses (bags of fun) in hat shop. hybrid with savvy sommeliers Trastevere – the place to be Spirito (p148) Fashionable and the finest selection of after 10pm. cocktail bar hidden, speakeasy- biodynamic wines in the city. Lanificio 159 (p186) Cool style, in the back of a Pigneto Ai Tre Scalini (p144) Buzzing underground venue hosts live sandwich shop. enoteca that feels as convivial gigs and club nights. Sciascia Caffè (p133) Classy as a pub. Yeah! Pigneto (p149) Pigneto joint serving the unparalleled bar with live gigs and DJs in caffè eccellente, a velvety Best Aperitivo Rome’s most boho district. smooth espresso in a chocolate- Anticafé Roma (p174) Laid- lined cup. Freni e Frizioni (p161) Pereni- back spot where you pay for Barnum Cafe (p90) Cool ally cool bar with lavish nightly your time not what you drink. vintage armchairs to sink into buffet of snacks. by day and dressed-up cocktails Doppiozeroo (p197) Popular Best Clubs by night. Ostiense address with impres- Open Baladin (p90) Craft sive buffet choice. Circolo Illuminati (p197) Wildly beer and pub vibe in the centro Momart (p185) Students and popular Ostiense club on the storico. local professionals love the international DJ club circuit, expansive array of pizza and with an underground vibe and Best Cafes other snacks. star-topped courtyard garden. Pimm’s Good (p161) Pimms Vinile (p198) Food, music, danc- La Casa del Caffè Tazza d’Oro cocktails, generous complimen- ing and party happenings on the (p88) With lovely burnished tary nibbles and party-loving bar southern fringe of Ostiense. 1940s fittings, great coffee and, staff in Trastevere. Vicious Club (p149) Uber- in summer, granita. Zuma Bar (p111) When the urge trendy club and cocktail bar Sciascia Caffè (p133) Delicious for a posh cocktail on a designer near Termini station. coffee in an elegant interior. rooftop beckons. Goa (p198) Rome’s seri- Caffè Sant’Eustachio (p88) ous superclub, at home in a Historic cafe famous for its Best for Beer former motorbike repair shop in world-beating coffee. industrial-styled Ostiense. La Casetta a Monti (p147) Bar San Calisto (p161) Linger Uber-cute cafe behind a over cheep beer on Trastevere’s Best Gay Venues foliage-draped facade in Monti’s loveliest pavement terrace. cobbled heart. Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà Coming Out (p175) A friendly Antico Caffè Greco (p111) (p162) Pint-sized bar crammed gay bar near the Colosseum, Old-world elegance at Rome’s with real-ale choices. open all day, with gigs, drag oldest cafe (1760), by the Span- Open Baladin (p90) More than shows and karaoke later on. ish Steps. 40 beers on tap and up to 100 L’Alibi (p175) Kitsch shows and bottled brews. house, techno and dance pump- Best Enoteche Be.re (p133) Craft beer flows at ing up a mixed gay and straight this modern Vatican newcomer. crowd. Il Sorì (p149) Gourmet wine Birra Più (p149) Pigneto hub, My Bar (p175) A mixed crowd by bar and artisan bottegha (shop) with a great range of craft beers day, and gayer by night, in the with wine tastings and ‘meet the on tap. shadow of the Colosseum. producer’ soirées. BrewDog Roma (p69) Hit the Il Goccetto (p90) An old-school beer and stumble out to Colos- vino e olio (wine and oil) shop seum views.

40 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd MARCO IACOBUCCI EPP/SHUTTERSTOCK © Roma supporters at Stadio Olimpico (p186) Entertainment Watching the world go by in Rome is often entertainment enough, but don’t overlook the local arts and sports scene. As well as gigs and concerts in every genre, there are fantastic arts festivals, especially in summer, performances with Roman ruins as a backdrop, and football games that split the city asunder. Music & Dance before the newer auditorium was opened, is still a force to be reckoned with; and the Is- CLASSICAL MUSIC tituzione Universitaria dei Concerti (IUC; Map p311; %06 361 00 51; www.concertiiuc.it; Piazzale Music in Rome is not just about catch- Aldo Moro 5; gVia dell’Università), holds concerts ing Rome’s world-class Orchestra in the Aula Magna of La Sapienza University. dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia (www.santacecilia.it) at the Auditorium Parco Free classical concerts are held in many della Musica (p186). There are concerts by the of Rome’s churches, especially at Easter and Accademia Filarmonica Romana at Teatro Ol- around Christmas and New Year; look out for impico (p186); the Auditorium Conciliazione information at Rome’s tourist kiosks. Rome’s (Map p304; %06 6813 4748; www.auditorium second-largest church after St Peter’s, the Ba- conciliazione.it; Via della Conciliazione 4; gPiazza silica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura (p195), hosts Pia), Rome’s premier classical music venue an important choral mass on 25 January and

41 the hymn ‘Te Deum’ is sung at the Chiesa NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP ENTERTAINMENT del Gesù (p80) on 31 December. Tickets OPERA, BALLET & CONTEMPORARY DANCE Tickets for concerts, live music and the- atrical performances are widely available Rome’s opera house, the Teatro dell’Opera across the city. Prices range enormously di Roma (p150), is a magnificent, grandiose depending on the venue and artist. Hotels venue, lined in gilt and red, but produc- can often reserve tickets for guests, or tions can be a bit hit and miss. It’s also you can contact the venue or organisation home to Rome’s official Corps de Ballet directly – check listings publications for and has a ballet season running in tandem booking details. Otherwise you can try the with its opera performances. Both ballet following: and opera move outdoors for the summer ¨¨Vivaticket (www.vivaticket.it) season at the ancient Roman baths, Terme ¨¨Orbis (Map p312; %06 482 74 03) di Caracalla (p175), which is an even more spectacular setting. Internet Resources ¨¨Comune di Roma (www.060608.it) You can also see opera in various other ¨¨Romeing (www.romeing.it) outdoor locations; check listings or at the ¨¨In Rome Now (www.inromenow.com) tourist information kiosks for details. ¨¨Tutto Teatro (www.tuttoteatro.com) ¨¨Rome Opera Omnia (www.roma Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica operaomnia.com) (p181) hosts classical and contemporary ¨¨Eventful (http://rome.eventful.com) dance performances, as well as the Equi- librio Festival della Nuova Danza in Feb- Outdoor Cinema ruary. The Auditorium Conciliazione is There are various atmospheric outdoor sum- another good place to catch contemporary mer film festivals; check festival websites for dance companies. progamme and ticketing details. The Isola del Cinema (p91) shows independent JAZZ, ROCK & POP films in the romantic setting of the Isola Tiberina annually in July and August. This Besides the Auditorium Parco della Musica, runs in conjunction with the riverside large concerts also take place at Rome’s Lungo il Tevere (p23) festival. sports stadiums, including Stadio Olimpico (p186) and the racetrack on the Appia Nuo- Spectator Sports va, the Ippodromo La Capannelle. FOOTBALL The centri sociali, alternative arts centres set up in venues around Rome, are also good In Rome you’re either for A S Roma (gial- places to catch a gig, especially Brancaleone lorossi – yellow and reds) or Lazio (bianca- (p37) in northern Rome, with music policies zzuri – white and blues), with both teams encompassing hip-hop, electro, dubstep, reg- playing in Serie A (Italy’s premier league). gae and dancehall. A striking new 52,500-seat stadium – a contemporary glass-and-steel structure Theatre inspired by the Colosseum – is planned for Rome has a thriving local theatre scene, Roma at Tor di Valle in southwest Rome, with theatres including both traditional due to be completed in time for the 2021–22 places and smaller experimental venues. season. Both sets of supporters have an un- Performances are usually in Italian. fortunate controversial minority who have been known to cause trouble at matches. Particularly wonderful are the summer festivals that make use of Rome’s archaeo- September to May, there’s a game at logical scenery. Performances take place in home for Roma or Lazio almost every week- settings such as Villa Adriana in Tivoli, Os- end and a trip to Rome’s football stadium, tia Antica’s Roman theatre and the Teatro the Stadio Olimpico (p186), is an unforget- di Marcello (p80). In summer the Miracle table experience. Note that ticket purchase Players (%06 7039 3427; www.miracle regulations are strict. Tickets have to bear players.org) perform classic English drama or historical comedy in English next to the Roman Forum and other open-air locations. Performances are usually free.

42 RARRARORRO/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP ENTERTAINMENT Terme di Caracalla (p169) the holder’s name and passport or ID num- matica (%06 54 09 01; www.palalottomatica.it; ber, and you must present a photo ID at Piazzale dello Sport 1; mEUR Palasport) in EUR. the turnstiles when entering the stadium. Two tickets are permitted per purchase for RUGBY UNION Serie A, Coppa Italia and UEFA Champions League games. Tickets cost from €17 to Italy’s rugby team, the Azzurri (the Blues), €250. You can buy them from www.listicket. entered the Six Nations tournament in it, at Lottomatica (lottery centres) or one 2000 although success has been scarce. The of the A S Roma or Lazio stores around the team plays home international games at the city. To get to the stadium, take metro line Stadio Olimpico (p186). A to Ottaviano–San Pietro, then bus 32. TENNIS BASKETBALL Italy’s premier tennis tournament, Basketball is a popular spectator sport in the Internazionali BNL d’Italia (www. Rome, though it inspires nothing like the internazionalibnlditalia.com) is one of the fervour of football. Rome’s team, Virtus most important events on the European ten- Roma (www.virtusroma.it), plays through- nis circuit. Every May the world’s top players out the winter months at the Palalotto- meet on the clay courts at the monumental, Fascist-era Foro Italico (p186). Tickets can A S ROMA VERSUS LAZIO usually be bought at the Foro Italico each The Rome derby is one of the football day of the tournament, except for the final season’s highest-profile games. The days, which are sold out weeks in advance. rivalry between Roma and Lazio is fierce and little love is lost between the fans. EQUESTRIAN EVENTS If you go to the Stadio Olimpico, make sure you get it right – Roma fans (in Rome’s top equestrian event is the Piazza deep red with a natty orange trim) flock di Siena showjumping competition (www. to the Curva Sud (southern stand), while piazzadisiena.org), an international annual Lazio supporters (in light blue) stand event held in May, gorgeously set in Villa in the Curva Nord (northern stand). If Borghese. you want to sit on the fence, head to the Tribuna Tevere or Tribuna Monte Mario. Rome by Neighbourhood For more details on the clubs, check ¨¨Centro Storico (p91) Great for concerts in out www.asroma.it and www.sslazio.it churches or theatre (usually in Italian). (both in Italian). ¨¨Trastevere & Gianicolo (p162) A few blues and jazz live-music venues. ¨¨Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo (p150) Several intimate live-music venues.

43 Lonely Planet’s Best for Live Gigs Teatro Argentina (p91) Rome’s PLAN YOUR TRIP ENTERTAINMENT Top Choices premier theatre with a wide- Nuovo Cinema Palazzo (p150) ranging programme of plays, Auditorium Parco della Exciting creative happenings performances and concerts. Musica (p186) An incredible in San Lorenzo’s former Palace Teatro India (p91) The alterna- venue hosting an eclectic, Cinema. tive home of the Teatro di Roma. must-see program of music, art Blackmarket (p150) Bar filled and more. with vintage sofas and arm- Best Sporting Terme di Caracalla (p169) chairs, great for eclectic, mainly Venues Opera and ballet performed acoustic live music. with the amazing backdrop Caffè Letterario (p198) Live Foro Italico (p186) Magnificent of the ruined Roman Baths of gigs in a post-industrial space of Fascist-era sports complex. Caracalla. a former garage: designer looks, Stadio Olimpico (p186) Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera di Roma gallery, co-working space, stage 70,000-seat football stadium, (p150) Rome’s premier opera and lounge bar. part of the Fascist-era Foro house. Lanificio 159 (p186) Ex-wool Italico. Roma Incontra il Mondo (p23) factory hosting underground live Piazza di Siena (p181) Lovely Cool world music festival in the gigs alongside club nights. racecourse in the heart of the parklands of Villa Ada. ConteStaccio (p175) Free live Villa Borghese park. Caffè Letterario (p198) music on the Testaccio clubbing Palazzetto dello Sport (p196) Entertaining post-industrial strip. Circular stadium near to EUR in all-rounder, in a former garage Southern Rome. in southern Rome: fantastic live Best for Jazz music and intellectual lounge Best Festivals vibe. Alexanderplatz (p133) Rome’s Nuovo Cinema Palazzo (p150) foremost jazz club, with a Carnevale Romano (p22) Pro- Alternative film, theatre, live mu- mix of international and local cessions, costumes, parties and sic and DJ sets in an old cinema. musicians. confetti – a blow-out before Lent Auditorium Parco della celebrating the end of winter. Best Classical Musica (p186) Stages, among Roma Incontra il Mondo (p23) Venues other things, the Roma Jazz Glorious World music acts play Festival. close to the lake in Villa Ada. Auditorium Parco della Mu- Charity Café (p150) Spindly Lungo il Tevere (p23) Open-air sica (p186) Great acoustics, top tables and chairs, in an intimate cinema and stalls line the Tiber international classical musicians space, hosting regular live gigs. riverbank and Tiberina island. and multiple concert halls. Big Mama (p162) An atmos- Romaeuropa (p23) Autumn Teatro dell’Opera di Roma pheric Trastevere venue for jazz, celebration of theatre, opera (p150) Great, red-velvet and gilt blues, funk, soul and R&B. and dance. interior for Rome’s opera and Gregory’s Jazz Club (p112) Festa de’ Noantri (p23) dance companies. Popular with local musicians, Trastevere’s raucous street Terme di Caracalla (p175) a smooth venue close to the party in July. Wonderful outdoor setting for Spanish Steps. summer opera and ballet. Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Best Theatres Agone (p74) Chamber music in a Baroque church overlooking Scavi Archeologici di Ostia Piazza Navona. Antica (p200) Wonderful summer theatre in the ancient amphitheatre built by Agrippa.

44 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Shopping Rome enthralls with a fabulous portfolio of specialist shops, independent boutiques and artisan workshops – guaranteed to please the most hedonist of shoppers. ‘Retro’ is among the Roman shopping scene’s many unique qualities, with jewel-like boutiques, dusty picture-framing and basket- weaving workshops, historic department stores all oozing an impossibly chic, old-school glamour. Meander, explore backstreets, enjoy. Fashion Artisans Big-name designer boutiques gleam in the Rome’s shopping scene has a surprising grid of streets between Piazza di Spagna and number of artists and artisans who create Via del Corso in Tridente. All the great names their goods on the spot in hidden workshops. are here, as well as many lesser-known de- There are several places in Tridente where signers, all selling highly fashionable clothes, you can get a bag, wallet or belt made to your shoes and accessories. The immaculately clad specifications; in other shops you can com- designer-fashion spine is Via dei Condotti, mission lamps or embroidery. but plenty of haute-couture boutiques also pepper Via Borgognona, Via della Borghese, Foodstuffs Via della Vite and Via del Babuino. Rome is deli heaven, of course. Also well worth a visit are Rome’s many wonderful Downsizing a euro or two, cheaper mid- food markets – there’s usually one in every range clothes shops line Via Frattuni, Via district – where you can buy cheese, salami Nazionale, Via del Corso, Via dei Giubbonari and other delicious stuff; note there are now and Via Cola di Rienzo, with some enticing various farmers’ markets as well at weekends. small boutiques set amid the chains. Rome by Neighbourhood Best for cutting-edge designer boutiques and vintage clothes is Via del Governo Vec- ¨¨Centro Storico (p91) Boutiques, one-off chio, running from a small square just off designers, antiques, vintage and jewellery, as well Piazza Navona towards the river. Other places as some swoon-worthy delicatessens. for one-off boutiques are Via del Pellegrino ¨¨Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale (p112) From and around Campo de’ Fiori. Via del Bos- high-fashion designer stores around Via Condotti chetto, Via Urbana and Via dei Serpenti in the to affordable chains on busy Via del Corso. Monti area feature unique clothing boutiques, ¨¨Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo (p151) Centre including a couple where you can get your for independent fashion, homewares and vintage clothes adjusted to fit, as well as jewellery boutiques. makers. Monti’s also a centre for vintage ¨¨Trastevere & Gianicolo (p162) Gifts and clothes shops, as well as a weekend vintage one-off shops in one of Rome’s prettiest market, Mercato Monti Urban Market (p151). neighbourhoods. ¨¨San Giovanni & Testaccio (p175) Browse a Antiques colourful food market and glorious delis. For antiques, Via dei Coronari, old-world ¨¨Southern Rome (p197) Home of mall-like food Via Margutta, Via Giulia and Via dei Banchi emporium Eataly. Vecchi are the best places to look – quality is high, as are the prices.

45 Lonely Planet’s known for beguilingly simple, Fabriano (p113) Desirable PLAN YOUR TRIP SHOPPING Top Choices architectural shoe designs. leather-bound diaries, quirky Rechicle (p133) Vintage fashion paper jewellery by local design- Benheart (p162) Handmade boutique: find that perfect pair ers and products embossed with shoes and jackets by one of of vintage heels. street maps of Rome. Italy’s savviest young talents. I Colori di Dentro (p93) Take Porta Portese Market (p163) Best Artisanal the Roman sun home with a Mammoth Sunday-morning flea painting by Maria Grazia market. Artisanal Cornucopia (p113) Luffarelli. Confetteria Moriondo & Chic concept store showcasing Gariglio (p93) Historic choco- handmade, artisan pieces by Best for Food late shop selling handmade Italian designers. chocolates made from 19th- Ibiz – Artigianato in Cuoio Volpetti (p175) Bulging with century recipes. (p92) Father-and-daughter team delicious delicacies, and notably Re(f)use (p112) Ethical fashion producing bags and sandals helpful staff. accessories by Roman designer from butter-soft leathers. Antica Caciara Trasteverina Ilaria Venturini Fendi. Il Sellaio (p133) Beautifully (p163) Wonderful, century-old Salumeria Roscioli (p92) crafted leather bags, belts and deli in Trastevere. Foodie heaven. accessories. Salumeria Roscioli (p86) Flumen Profumi (p113) Artisan Byword for foodie excellence. Best for Fashion fragrances with a ‘made in Biscottificio Innocenti (p163) Rome’ couture label. Enchanting, old-world biscuit Tina Sondergaard (p151) Retro- shop in a Trastevere backstreet. inspired dresses, adjusted to fit. Best Homewares Eataly (p197) Mall-scale food Gente (p114) Emporium-style, shop, filled with products from multi-label boutique. Bialetti (p186) The place to go all over Italy. Manila Grace (p114) Essential for cool Italian kitchenware. homegrown label for dedicated Mercato Monti Urban Market Best for Books followers of fashion. (p151) Vintage homeware finds Balenciaga (p114) Fashion cram this weekend market. Almost Corner Bookshop shopping in a designer, 19th- c.u.c.i.n.a. (p115) Gastronomic (p163) Superbly stocked, century palazzo (mansion). gadgets to enhance your culi- English-language bookshop. nary life. Feltrinelli International (p151) Best for Shoes Limited but excellent range Best for Gifts of latest releases in various Marta Ray (p91) Women’s languages. ballerina flats in a rainbow of Federico Buccellati (p114) Libreria l’Argonauta (p186) stylish colours. Handcrafted silverware by one Travel literature specialist. Fausto Santini (p115) Rome’s of Italy’s most prestigious silver- best-known shoe designer, and goldsmiths.

46 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd SOOTRA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Explore Rome Ancient Rome. . . . . . . 50 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Villa Borghese & Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 N­ orthern Rome. . . . . . 176 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Monti, Esquilino Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 & San Lorenzo. . . . . . 136 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 69 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 185 Centro Storico . . . . . . 70 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 147 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Southern Rome. . . . . . 187 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 88 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Trastevere Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 & Gianicolo . . . . . . . . . 152 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 197 Tridente, Trevi Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 198 & the Quirinale. . . . . . 96 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Day Trips Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 161 from Rome. . . . . . . . . 199 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Ostia Antica. . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 111 Tivoli. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 112 San Giovanni Castelli Romani . . . . . . . . . 202 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 & ­Testaccio . . . . . . . . 166 Cerveteri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Orvieto. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Vatican City, Borgo Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 & Prati . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . 208 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 174 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 133

47 ROME’S TOP SIGHTS Colosseum.............................52 Palatino..................................54 Roman Forum....................... 57 Capitoline Museums............ 61 Pantheon............................... 72 Piazza Navona....................... 74 Piazza di Spagna & the Spanish Steps.................98 Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo..............................99 Trevi Fountain......................100 St Peter’s Basilica................118 Vatican Museums............... 122 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme................................... 138 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore...................139 Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere........................ 154 Villa Farnesina..................... 155 Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano...........................168 Terme di Caracalla..............169 Museo e Galleria Borghese.............................. 178 Via Appia Antica..................189 Basilica & Catacombe di San Sebastiano................191

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