Gateway to Peranakan Culture

Some Common Ingredients Found in the Nyonya Kitchen Achar: Pickled vegetables. Belachan: Shrimp paste. Integral to Malay and Indonesian cooking. Buah keluak: Black nut, grown in Indonesia. Buah keras: Candlenuts. These nuts can be used to thicken curries. Daun pandan: Pandan leaf, used for fragrance and flavouring Gula Malacca: Thick brown palm sugar that is sometimes made into a syrup. Serai: Lemongrass. Timcheong: Reddish sauce made from preserved Chinese foods. Turmeric powder: Yellowish-orange powder that is used to give curry its characteristic colour. Udang kering: Dried prawns. A daun pandan plant. A turmeric plant. (From left) Buah keras, serai, turmeric. 78

Sometimes, a recipe would require the addition of rempah (pounded spices). Such items, which may include dried chillies, ginger, garlic and lemongrass, were pounded with a pestle, in a mortar. These days, the concoction is often simply thrown into a blender. Whether this modern method yields results that are better, of lower quality, or similar, is often subjective. One unique condiment in the Peranakan kitchen is the sambal belachan. This consists of a pounded concoction of chilli peppers and prawn paste, that is then mixed with lime juice. A Peranakan meal is simply not complete without this spicy tangy condiment! The rest of the chapter presents the recipes for sambal belachan, achar rampai and some Peranakan dishes. Sambal Belachan (Fragrant Shrimp Paste Sambal) Ingredients: 1½ tablespoon belachan (shrimp paste), toasted 4–5 chillis ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon sugar Cooking method: Wet the pestle. Put in the toasted belachan, then add the chillis, salt and sugar on top of it. Pound the concoction in a mortar until it is smooth. Do not break the seeds. If not used immediately, it should be stored in the refrigerator. 79

Achar Rampai Ingredients: 1 400 g unripe papaya or 1 carrot 12 fresh green chillis (chilli hijau) 8 cabbage leaves (kobis) 2 cucumbers 2 cloves garlic 8 shallots 1 piece 3-cm long turmeric 4 tsp salt 1 tbsp belachan 2 tbsp dried shrimps (udang kering) 5 tbsp sugar 3 tbsp cooking oil 1 cup rice vinegar (chuka) Cooking method: 1. Peel papaya or carrot, shred finely and add 1 tsp salt. 2. Squeeze papaya or carrot to extract juice. Leave to dry in the sun, if desired. 3. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan and fry the dried shrimps. Grind the fried dried shrimps finely. 4. Mix dried shrimps with the papaya or carrot shreds. 5. Slit green chillies lengthwise, leaving the two ends uncut. Remove seeds. 6. Stuff green chillies with the papaya or carrot shreds. 7. Cut cabbage in 3 x 3 cm squares. Cut off dark green head of cucumber, then cut lengthwise. Scoop out and discard the cucumber core. 8. Cut cucumber into 3 x 0.5 cm sticks. 9. Boil vinegar with 3 tsp salt. 10. Scald separately green chillies, cabbage and cucumber in the vinegar. 11. Lift vegetables with a slotted spoon and put in a large bowl. 12. Peel garlic and slice thinly. Peel shallots and turmeric. 13. Grind turmeric, shallots and belachan finely. 14. Heat 2 tbsp oil and fry garlic till golden. Set aside. 15. Fry the spicy paste in the same oil till fragrant. 16. Mix spicy paste, sugar and fried garlic with the vegetables. 17. Cool pickle and store in a jar. Serve as an appetiser. Adapted from At a Nonya’s Table. Courtesy of Nyonya Tan Gek Suan. 80

Ayam Buah Keluak Ingredients: 1 chicken, cut into small pieces 300g pork rib bones, chopped into small pieces 8 rounded tbsp tamarind (assam) in 1.7 litres water 8 tbsp oil 5 tbsp sugar 5 tsp salt Rempah 10 red chillies 12 slices lengkuas 1 tsp coriander powder ½ thumbsize turmeric 1½ tbsp belachan 6 buah keras 1 stalk serai (lemongrass), mashed 30 bawang merah (shallots) Directions: 1. Pound or blend the ingredients for the rempah till you get a smooth, fine paste. Buah Keluak 20 buah keluak, soaked for three days 2 tsp sugar ¼ tsp salt Directions: 1. After three days, scrub the buah keluak clean. 2. Make a small opening in the buah keluak and extract the kernel. Together with the 2 tsp sugar and ¼ tsp salt, pound the kernel together until it is smooth. Stuff the mixture back into the empty buah keluak shells. Cooking method: 1. Stir and then strain the water in which the taramind has been soaked. Discard the solids. 2. Over a high flame, heat a frying pan until hot. Add in 8 tbsp oil and stir-fry the rempah for 2 minutes. 3. Reduce the flame and stir-fry for another 2 minutes. 4. Over a high fire, add the pork bones and chicken, then stir-fry until the liquid has been reduced. 5. Add the nuts and stir-fry until the oil appears on the surface. Add the taramind water, 5 tbsp sugar and 5 tsp salt. Simmer for 30 minutes. Serve hot. 81

Bakwan Kepiting (Crab Meat Ball Soup) Ingredients: 300g minced pork 300g scraped or minced fish meat 200g crabmeat 50g cooked bamboo shoots, finely shredded 5 cloves garlic, fried till golden brown 1 egg 1 tsp monosodium glutamate 1 tsp salt 1 tsp light soy sauce 3 tbsp oil Ingredients for soup: 300g cooked bamboo shoots, shredded 2.3 litres water ½ tsp sugar 2 tsp salt 2 tsp monosodium glutamate Directions for soup: 1. Heat a frying pan until hot. Add the oil and stir-fry the garlic over a low fire until slightly brown. 2. Remove and add it to the meatball mixture. Fry the bamboo shoots (shredded) for about 2 minutes. Remove and then set it aside. 3. Add the water, sugar, salt and monosodium glutamate for the soup. Directions for meatballs: 1. Mix the pork and fish together. Add the monosodium glutamate, salt, light soy sauce, fried garlic, bamboo shoots (finely shredded), egg and then the crabmeat. Mix well and then form into balls. Drop the balls into the boiling soup. 2. Add the bamboo shoots (shredded) to the soup. Simmer for 10 minutes. Serve in a large soup bowl. 82

Chap Chye Ingredients: 1 whole Chinese cabbage (Wash and cut into small pieces) 5 fried Chinese mushrooms (Soak in water, remove stems and cut into half) 2 tbsp of dried sweet beancurd (Soak in water and cut into short lengths) 1 small bundle of transparent vermicelli (Soak in water and drain) 10 pieces of dried lily-buds (Soak in water and tie each into a knot) 6 pieces of dried black fungus (Soaked in water and cut into small pieces) 1 sheet of unsalted dried beancurd skin (Soak in water and cut into short lengths) 2 tbsp of fermented soya beans, mashed 2 cloves of garlic, finely diced 1 piece of belachan, 5 fresh chillies and 2 small limes (These are to be pounded or blended into a fine paste to make sambal belachan) Salt and sugar to taste Cooking method: 1. Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a wok. 2. Fry soya beans and garlic at low heat for one minute. 3. Add 1 cup of water. 4. Add black fungus and mushrooms, and bring to a boil. 5. Add the rest of the ingredients, bring to a boil and simmer uncovered for at least half an hour, adding a little water if necessary to prevent drying. 6. Add sugar and salt to taste. 83

Ngoh Hiang Ingredients: 500g minced pork 300g cooked crab meat 500g small prawns, shelled, de-veined and chopped 10 water chestnuts, peeled and diced 2 dried beancurd skin sheets 2 eggs, beaten lightly 2 large onions, peeled and diced finely 2 cups tapioca flour (optional) 6 cups cooking oil Ingredients for seasoning: 1¼ tsp salt 2 tsp sugar 1 tsp pepper 1½ tsp Chinese five spice powder 1 tbsp plain flour 2 tsp light soya sauce 2 tsp dark soya sauce 2 tbsp lard or cooking oil Cooking method: 1. Clean beancurd skin sheets with a damp cloth to remove excess salt. Cut each sheet into rectangles, measuring 15cm by 18cm. 2. Mix the minced pork, prawns, onions, prawns, eggs and seasoning together in a large basin. 3. Add crab meat and water chestnuts. Mix thoroughly. 4. Put about 4 to 5 tbsp of the mixture on each piece of beancurd skin sheet. Roll to form a sausage shape. Press down on both ends to seal. Seal the loose edges of the roll with meat mixture. 5. Steam the rolls for 10 minutes till cooked. Set aside to cool. At this point, they can be stored in a refrigerator or frozen. Thaw well before deep frying. 6. Cut the rolls diagonally into 2cm slices and roll them in tapioca flour, if preferred. 7. Pre-heat 6 cups oil over high heat. Deep fry the ngoh hiang till golden and crispy. Drain well. Deep fry again for maximum crispness. 84

WEDDING The elaborate rituals and customs of a traditional Peranakan wedding contain a wealth of significance. Unfortunately, knowledge of these practices have been passed down by the matchmaker only through word of mouth and few of the younger generation are interested in taking over the role. The wedding ceremony, lasting 12 days in its full splendour, is also hardly celebrated nowadays. It had distinct Peranakan practices such as eating glutinous rice balls. 85

Matchmaking was the norm, with the bride and groom not meeting each other until the wedding day, up till half a century ago. Most Peranakan weddings were matrilocal, so the husband lived with the wife’s family after the marriage. This practice probably stemmed from the fact that the groom was usually an immigrant with no relations in the country. The Peranakan marriage is characterised by both Chinese and Malay customs. Chinese customs are found in most of the rituals, attire and practices. The Malay influence can be seen in the form and manner of the language used throughout the ceremony, which is similar to the way Malay elders phrase their words during matchmaking. (Pantong: Malay that is used in a lyrical and picturesque manner.) The skills that young girls received at home prepared her for the responsibility of managing a household. Matchmakers were often relatives who had a wide network of friends, usually acquired during marathon cherki sessions. Discreet inquiries were made and the status of every prospective unmarried person studiously set in memory. 86

The bride’s standing generally depended on the wealth of her family, while the groom’s depended on his earning potential, or whether he came from a wealthy family. Once a potentially viable match was found, further discussions and then a visit to the family followed. After that, more fact-finding and research were undertaken before the match was confirmed. It was important that the two families did not share the same surname. She weighs a ton Sounds like and shakes the earth Chang’s girl is off when she walks! my list… Full flush? I hear that she rocks the sky when she snores! 87

In the old days, young people had no say in their choice of partners. The girls would be pinched or slapped if they so much as utter a word of protest at their parents’ decision, while the boy would be lectured on proper behaviour for someone of his standing. If he continued in his protests, he might even be disowned by his parents. OK… OK!! You win! Towards the 1930s, however, they were given more freedom, thanks to the spread of western education, mass media and the increasing number of youths going abroad to study. 88

Sometimes, the couple would be shown I want her! photographs of their prospective I want her! partners. When can I meet her? Maybe he’s not suitable for my niece… A meeting in a public place (with relatives in tow) might even be arranged. Once the match is decided, on an auspicious day, a formal delegation, which included the matchmaker and an even number of elderly female relatives, will visit the young woman’s family. 89

Upon arrival, the delegation is served sireh. They should at least touch the container to indicate their acceptance of the family’s hospitality. The young woman would then serve tea and cakes. Not bad. Hmmm … OK, lah … This gives the delegation a chance to observe the prospective bride up close, to confirm that she is indeed a ‘lady’. No! You cannot wash your hair today! This is a bad sign. Deal’s off! Good and bad omens would also be noted during the visit. For instance, if the delegation drops in when the family is having a meal, that is a good omen. If the young woman happens to wash her hair on that day, it is considered a very bad omen, and the marriage may even be called off. 90

When the conversation turns to the real purpose of the visit, the bride’s family feigns surprise. Once the two parties come to an agreement, an auspicious date is set for the exchange of horoscopes, whereupon the dates and times of the couple’s birth based on the lunar calendar are sent to an almanac expert to assess the prospective couple’s compatibility and to set an auspicious date for the engagement. In the past, the match had to be sanctioned by heaven, which ordained all marriages. If the almanac expert deemed the match unfavourable, the match would be dropped with no ill-will between the two parties. 91

Once the date of the wedding is announced, the bride will start embroidering a pair of bedroom slippers for her future husband. These will be presented to him on the engagement day. She will also bead and embroider kasut manek and kebaya, among other accessories, to display her cultivated and proper upbringing. Surely you don’t expect us to make pyjamas from this small piece of cloth… About two weeks prior to the wedding, in the groom’s house, a length of white cloth is cut into two by a middle-aged or elderly woman. She must have a complete family (husband, son, daughter and grandchildren) still alive. One of the pieces is given to the bride. The couple will then make their own pair of pyjamas (baju chio tao) from the cloth. 92

Lap Chye Day (Engagement Day) Two weeks before the wedding, the two families exchange gifts. An even number of elderly ladies (signifying longevity) bring gifts from the groom to the bride’s home. Families compete to present the more lavish gifts, including clothes and jewellery, so that their future in-laws will not look down on them. Bet you’ve never seen such a big pear l before! Actually, I think my g randsons have a few of those… They’re using them to play marbles. 93

While gifts vary, there are some symbolic ones that should always be present. These include a bowl of kueh ee*, candles, a raw leg of ham and two bottles of brandy (formerly, it was traditional Chinese rice wine). A well-to-do groom’s family may also add hairpins, a wedding dress, shoes and two diamond rings to the ‘inventory’. The groom’s family is usually given oranges, a silver belt, and men’s slippers embroidered by the bride. Sometimes, they also receive a fan for the groom to use on the wedding day. Oh yeah! I needed this… phew! Hot… hot weather! * Small round balls of glutinous rice dough in a light syrup. 94

Among the gifts are two pairs of red candles wrapped in red paper, presented on a tray. The prospective bride’s father removes a pair and then replaces them with another pair, so that the delegation will come away with even pairs of candles. The pair of candles that was removed is lit and both families pay their respects to the gods and their ancestors. Refreshments are then served. Curiously, the bride and groom are not involved in their own engagement celebrations. 95

On sang ee (or sang ih) day, six days before the wedding, relatives and friends are officially invited. Accompanied by an attendant, the young man will personally deliver the invitation cards, enclosed in red envelopes, to his friends. This may take up to as much as an entire day, especially in places without modern transport systems. According to this, Tom lives beyond that mountain. We’ll need to cut through this village, then the forest, and — Huh? You’re kidding! Why can’t he live in town like ever yone else? 96

Invitations to relatives are more formal. A professional Indian ritual master accompanies middle-aged and elderly ladies when they go and distribute the invitations. Male relatives are given some kueh ee (red symbolises luck, and white, purity). The roundness of the balls represent whole-hearted joy, while their stickiness assures the togetherness of the couple. The sweetness of the soup is carried over to the relationship. We hope the couple will be together forever. So we made the kueh ee e xtra sticky. Arghhh… I think… my jaws are stuck!! 97

The kueh ee is served in dainty nonyaware bowls and put in a pair of large three-tiered baskets (bakol sia) slung on a pole carried by a servant. The members of the delegation receive gifts in return. The female guests are then presented with sa kapor siray by the prospective mothers- in-law. These are small pieces of sireh folded into a triangular or pyramid shape with some slices of betel nut inserted in them. They are then placed in a silver bowl wrapped in a square silk handkerchief. Such invitations are referred to as hantar sireh (presenting betel). The sang ee day also marks the start of the wedding preparations. The house is meticulously cleaned and decorated. (Cough, Cough) My (Cough) Ma says it gosh! When was the was dur ing her sang last time we cleaned ee 33 years ago! the house? 98

An Chng Ceremony (Blessing of the Bridal Bed) The bridal chamber is in the bride’s home. It should be fully and appropriately furnished with new curtains, embroidered tapestries, carpets and flowers. A comb of pisang raja, serai and yam, together with three lit joss sticks are placed in an earthenware pot beneath the bed . These symbolise wealth, longevity and fertility, and convey good wishes to the bride and groom. The room is filled with the fragrance of bunga rampai, a fresh scent derived from pandanus leaves, flowers and stanggee*. * Local incense made from various roots and bark, sugar cane and sugar. 99

Then, the room is guarded very carefully to prevent ‘defilement’, while a date and time is set for the an chng ceremony. Lest malicious spirits invade the bridal bed, auspicious items chosen for their sweetness, like a dish of bee koh*, a posy of siantan**, a tempat sireh***, sweet dishes made from rice and a tray of bunga rampai are placed on the bed. Stangee is also left in the room. Then, no one will be allowed to touch the bed until the bride and groom sleep in it on the wedding night. During the an chng ceremony, a teenage boy born in the year of the dragon rolls back and forth three times across the bed in his best clothes as a blessing for a first-born male child. He should come from a large family with both parents still alive. He receives a red packet and two red candles for the service. Roll! Roll on the bed! I didn’t ask you to do somersaults! Menstruating or pregnant women and anyone in mourning are not allowed to enter the bridal chamber. * A kind of sweet. 100 ** Red ixora. *** Betel leaf set.

Hari Kupas Bawang (Onion Peeling Day) Four days before the wedding, fr iends and relatives gather at the house to peel the many onions and garlic that will garnish the dishes to be prepared. This gives relatives an excuse to get together. A Hainanese chef is usually hired to cook the food. (Sob) Next time we want to get together, I suggest we go out for tea. Agreed!!! The next day, a sweet appetiser is prepared from soya beans in spices. This would be distributed to friends and relatives, together with the sweet-rice- flour balls in syrup. Hari Menyambal The Hari Tumbok Tepong takes place two days before the wedding. Rice is On this day, sambal, as many as 20 or more sifted, sorted, soaked and then varieties, will be cooked. The serving of milled and pounded in this dish represents the harmony of the wooden mortars. impending match. Then comes the Sang Jit, which falls on the same day as the Hari Tumbok Tepong (The Day the Flour is Pounded). The two families exchange gifts. The groom’s procession is accompanied by a serunee band. At the head would be two lanterns bearing the groom’s surname. Behind the lanterns are two bamboo stems with leaves on top. Then comes the master of ceremonies and gift bearers, with lots and lots of gifts. As the gifts are exchanged, the band plays on. 101

The Berandam Two days before the wedding, at noon, the berandam — the ritual of combing and trimming the bride’s hair — takes place. The fringe is tied in tiny tufts at both sides of the forehead. The ribbon is either white (signifying the bride’s purity) or red (to commemorate the joyous occasion). The hairdresser is usually also the mistress of ceremonies for the wedding. It is believed that this experienced lady can tell if the bride is a virgin. If the hairline along the forehead tends to curl and does not respond to the comb, it shows that the girl is ‘experienced’. The tied tufts are maintained throughout the wedding ceremony. Some brides choose to retain this symbol of virginity until they give birth to their first child. Young girls may also sport the fringe. 102

Wedding Eve On the eve of the wedding, the hall is thoroughly cleaned. It will not be used for any other activity besides the wedding. The chia lang keh or banquet for the guests is held on this day. Traditionally, it is held at home. Sometimes, to accommodate the large number of guests, the neighbours would lend use of their house. Hello, neighbour! We need to borrow your house for another hundred tables! Sorr y… No one is at home now. Please try next door… Ladies are invited for lunch and the men for dinner. The guests present the couple with an ang pow and a pair of red candles to symbolise good luck. For both occasions, meals are laid out on very long tables. 103

It is common practice for guests to linger outside the house before the meal is served. When the serunee band plays for a third time, they will take their seats. Different tunes are played, depending on the dish being served. Once the diners at the main table have finished their dessert, the band will quicken the tempo and the drums will become louder. Upon hearing this, the guests will leave the table and hang around for a while before taking their leave. Formerly, ladies at the lunch ate with their fingers in the Malay style. Several sets of the same dishes are laid out at regular intervals on the table within reach of all seated. The Nyonya restricts herself to those dishes that are immediately in front of her. It would be unbecoming of her to stretch for food, no matter how hungry she is. The more formal dinner for men is served course by course. They dine with forks and spoons. 104

At the bride’s home, during the dinner, the bride is accompanied by the Sang Kheh Umm or the Mak Andam. From her, the bride learns how to kneel, walk and sit properly and gracefully, how to fold her arms and how to keep her eyes downcast. This lady will be by the bride’s side from now till the very last ceremony of the wedding. She will comb the bride’s hair, dress her, and lead her from the hall to the room. She has an assistant to help in the dressing, kneeling and waiting upon of the bride. Similarly, the groom has his own assistant, called a pak chindek. This is usually an energetic middle-aged man who helps the groom in the many rituals and is always by his side to attend to him. His responsibilities are generally the same as his female counterpart, though not so elaborate. 105

Once the guests leave, the main hall is cleaned in preparation for the chiu thau (or cheo thau) or initiation ceremony. This ceremony represents the couple’s entry into adulthood. It is the most sacred of all the rituals. In fact, it is so important that if the bride or the groom did not undergo it, he or she would not considered married. Any offspring would therefore be illegitimate. The chiu thau ceremony is held from late at night till the early hours of the next day, depending on what time the diviner had deemed auspicious. The couple go through the ceremony in their own homes. A special altar called a sam kai altar is set up. Besides the usual offerings of cooked foods, tea, wine, flowers and a pair of glass lamps, a special wooden stand (beet chien in Penang and chien arb in Malacca) containing decorative skewers spiked with slivers of young papaya is placed on it. Prior to the ceremony, the couple bathe, then dress in white suits (symbolising purity). They will only take off these clothes after the wedding ceremony. The clothes will not be washed or worn again. When the couple die, they will be buried wearing these clothes. 106

During the chiu thau ceremony, the head of the household prays and lights the candles (pasang lilin) on thesam kai altar. On the floor, there would be a wooden rice measure on a round bamboo tray. Its mouth would be positioned upwards and covered with a piece of red carpet. The bride would be dressed in white pyjamas made from the cloth sent by the groom two weeks earlier. She would sit on a gantang (rice measure). Only virgins are allowed on this seat. On her lap is a Chinese almanac. The pageboy who blessed the bridal bed during the an chng ceremony is also present. The mistress of ceremonies hands him symbolic objects and he passes them to the bride. These objects are a Chinese ruler, a razor, red thread and a pair of scissors. The boy holds a Chinese weighing scale above the bride’s head and slowly lowers it to her feet to remind her to weigh all her actions. The ruler serves to advise her to exercise wisdom in all her judgements, while the sharp razor reminds her to be careful in everything she does. The bride’s plain chignon is then covered with gold and diamond pins, forming a bejewelled crown. The ceremony ends when the candles on the altar burns out. The couple is subsequently dressed in their wedding finery. Finally, prayers are said at the two homes. 107

Wedding Day On the wedding day, at the groom’s house, the family lanterns are hung up. This means that the family is ‘officially ready’ (this is called ‘open hall’). Before noon, a procession leaves the groom’s house. First, his parents leads him out to a waiting carriage. Before he boards it, his father gives him a cup of wine as a parting gesture. This ritual is called ‘mounting the horse’, and it is somewhat similar to the old days in China when the groom rode a horse to fetch his bride. Sometimes, two sticks of sugarcane (symbolising a sweet and long life) are strapped to the back of the groom’s car. In the early days, a bamboo basket containing a young cockerel and hen was also placed in the back of the vehicle. This is rarely done today. 110088

The groom is accompanied by a pak chindek, two best men, a cymbal player, a flutist and two gong masters. The procession is led by professional Indian attendants carrying the groom’s lanterns and banner, followed by Chinese musicians playing the serunee wedding procession music. A display of gifts for the bride comes next, and these are arranged on large brass trays that are carried shoulder-high by Indian attendants. They are escorted by the groom’s close friends. Photo courtesy of Katong Antique House. Among the gifts is jewellery from the groom’s parents for the couple, meant to be good wishes for a good life. The bride only accepts a small portion of the gifts. Large lacquered wooden baskets are hung on horizontal poles and carried on the shoulders of the strong attendants. Inside the baskets are gifts for the bride’s parents, including a roast piglet, chickens, ducks, fruit, wine and candles, together with embroidered slippers that are displayed on brass or wooden trays. 109

When the groom arrives at the bride’s house, firecrackers are lit. As a blessing, elders shower the groom and his retinue with uncooked beras kunyit (yellow rice). Then they are sprinkled with scented water from a water sprinkler, similar to that used in Malay weddings (ayer mawar or rose-scented water). As the groom reaches the main door, a pageboy presents him with an orange on a silver saucer. Only when he is invited in by an elder perfor ming the ceremonial greeting (kia lay) will he enter. No! You’re not supposed to eat the orange! Hmm… sweet! There is Malay ronggeng, and the band and dancers perform for the entire day, taking breaks only to eat and rest. While the groom waits for the chim pang ceremony to begin, he is served tea. The chim pang ceremony is the time the couple meets for the first time. 110

Within the bridal chamber, the Sang Kheh Umm works on the bride. The bride’s parents cover her head with a black net-veil. This symbolises her sadness at leaving behind her parents and childhood, and her nervousness at becoming an adult. The Sang Kheh Umm teaches the bride the ways of walking and ceremonial salutation. She will pinch her for any mistakes and unladylike behaviour. Ouc h!! Throughout the ceremony, the bride hardly ever smiles, as a marriage is considered a solemn affair. Smile? After being pinched so many times? You’re kidding, right? 111

After some time, the groom invites the bride to come out. She is led out by the Sang Kheh Umm. The couple bow to each other, and then enter the bridal chamber. Together, they are served tea and a bowl of kueh ee (consisting of only one white and one red dumpling). This signifies that the newlyweds are blessed with the sweetness of life. The remaining kueh ee that have been prepared is placed under the bridal bed and is not removed until the 12th day of the wedding. Next comes the makan choon tok. This will be the first time the couple share a meal as husband and wife, each sitting on two red lacquered chairs. Both will perform their duty as caring spouses by serving the other a variety of dishes. Twelve types of dishes are prepared for this ceremony. Two pairs of silver or silver- plated chopsticks are part of the table setting. (Normally, the couple eat with their fingers, or with fork and spoon.) Two tall candles on the table represent the bride and the groom. People believed that if the groom’s candle burned out first, he would pass away first, and vice versa. 112

Guests watch for signs of matrimonial dominance, indicated by whichever of the two manages to step on the other’s foot first. Then, the couple kneel before the bride’s parents Photo courtesy of as a sign of respect. Accompanied by two Katong Antique House. pageboys, the couple then pay their respects to the groom’s parents in a similar fashion before visiting their relatives. The couple will make their way to temples as well. Later, at night, the Indian attendant and a pageboy invites the groom back to the bride’s house. However, although he may be anxious to respond, the groom only accepts the invitation after they make three calls. At the bride’s place, the newlyweds are teased by the groom’s friends, who are already there. The teasing usually revolves around the subject of children. The person who can get the bride to smile wins a free dinner. However, the men would have little chance of success, since the Sang Kheh Umm would have told the bride to bite on a piece of betel Come on, dear, don’t nut, so that she will not smile. be a spoilsport. Give us a smile, just one tin y smile… 113

Cock-a- doodle- doo! From the second to the Shut up! 12th day, the groom heads for home at daybreak, as soon as he hears the rooster. He returns to the bride’s home in the evening upon her invitation. 111144

The items for the groom’s morning ablutions are prepared by the bride. In recognition of this, he places a red packet on the washstand. This daily ritual of departure and return is a sign of the groom’s privileged position as the bride’s special guest. The Third Day On the third day (sah jit ortiga hari), the bride, with some older Nyonyas, visits her in-laws. Gifts of food, like sweet glutinous rice cakes and rice dumplings, are exchanged between the two families. These are distributed among relatives. The tea ceremony is held on this day. The couple offer the groom’s parents tea, and they will give the bride a sealed red packet containing money. Other relatives, according to their seniority, are introduced in a similar fashion. At the bride’s home, this ceremony is repeated . 111155

After the ceremonies, at the groom’s residence, the bride removes the kemunchak, an ornament shaped like a red phoenix (symbolising her virginity and fidelity) from a three-tier offering known as a sireh darah and takes it back to the bride chamber. On the fifth day, the chia sia or ‘invitation to the sons of gentility’ takes place. All the bridegroom’s friends and younger relatives are invited to a celebration in the bridal chamber. The morning starts with the bride’s visit. She wears a baju kurong, a Malay style tunic made of kain songket (fabric brocaded with gold or silver thread), to the groom’s home so that she can be introduced to the women of his family. In the evening, the celebration at the bride’s house starts with the couple serving everyone wine. The bride will be dressed in a formal baju hock chiew (a satin upper garment and skirt couched in gold The sapu tangan (handkerchief) thread). typically carried by the bride. The guests take turns to tell jokes or recite pantuns to the bride. If she laughs out loud, the groom has to invite everyone to another dinner. There goes my bonus! 111166

The 12th Day The dua belas hari celebration is held on the 12th day. On this day, the marriage is confirmed, by the proof of the bride’s virginity. At the groom’s home, a ceremonial tempat sireh is prepared, complete with silver containers of sireh, sliced betel nuts, lime and gambier. Then the bride’s parents invites the groom’s mother to inspect a bloodstained cloth. She will be asked to test the authenticity of the stain by squeezing the juice of a lime onto the cloth. A false stain will run. Normally, the groom’s mother does not perform the test as it is demeaning to the bride. Once both parents are pleased with the result, nasi lemak is sent to the bride’s home. 111177

One of the rituals for the day involves a rooster and hen. They are released under the bridal bed, and then rice grains are scattered on the floor to lure them out. If the rooster comes out first, the first child will be a son. If the hen emerges, the first child will be a daughter. Sometimes, bets are taken. Items like the yam plant, bananas and lemongrass are placed under the bed. Such items are symbols of fertility known for their swift rate of reproduction. Come on, rooster… here ? boy, come on out! The culmination of the entire wedding ceremony is the chia ching kay / che umm, a dinner party that is thrown by the groom’s parents for his parents-in- law. Close family members who had assisted during the past 12 days will be invited to join in the festivities. When the celebration is over, everything is cleaned and carefully stored, so that they can be used by the next person in the family who gets married. 118

SPECIAL OCCASIONS Many of the festivals and celebrations observed by the Peranakans can be traced to Chinese traditions. However, it is not unusual to detect a Malay influence in some of the practices. 119

Birthdays The celebration of one’s birthday every year is a modern concept for the Peranakans. The early Peranakans did not believe in yearly birthdays. For them, only two days in one’s lifetime were worth celebrating: one’s first month of life (mua guek, meaning full moon) and one’s 61st birthday (tua sae jit). It’s… it’s been 60 years already. Finally, I… I get to celebrate my bir thday again. In spite of one’s achievements, it is only on one’s 61st birthday that a person is considered to have lived a full life. The importance of the 60th birthday was probably due to the 60-year cycle in the Chinese lunar calendar. On their special day, the patriarchs and matriarchs would be served hard-boiled eggs in syrup, and mee suah (rice noodles) which are kept as long as possible, to signify longevity. From then on, their birthday would be graced with a celebration every year. On those days, they are required to give their family members a red packet each. Find out if you can complete a 60-year cycle — Play the Peranakan Game of Life! Available in the Peranakan Culture Pack! 112200

Month-old babies would have their first haircut and be dressed in fine clothes and gold jewellery. They would be introduced to their ancestors for the first time, by way of worship at the family altar, with the assistance of their elders. Nasi kunyit with chicken curry is distributed, along with a sweet red dumpling filled with mashed green beans. Its form and shape depends on the gender of the baby. For a boy, the dumpling would be shaped into a turtle. It would be shaped into two peaches if the baby is a girl. After this, a popiah party and cherki session would follow. Come on, boy, give your auntie a cute, chubby smile! I’ve been tickled and harassed f or one whole day! Please give me a break! 121

Maternity Get that monkey out The older members of of here! the family, particularly the mother-in-law, keep a sharp eye on the pregnant woman. Anything that happens to her during her pregnancy may affect the unborn child. For instance, if she is surprised by a monkey, her baby may become hairy and behave like the said animal. Here are some more beliefs: - If a pregnant woman eats two bananas sharing the same skin, the possibility is high that she might give birth to twins. - Pregnant women are advised never to cut the tail off any fruit first, in case the baby emerges from the womb feet first. - A pregnant woman is not allowed to hammer nails as it may cause her to suffer a miscarriage. - Pointed stomachs mean a baby boy, while round ones signify a baby girl. It’s pointy… wait! It’s quite round on this side. Pointy and round? Maybe it’s twins! 112222

Birth Customs and Confinement In wealthy families, a midwife (dukun) is hired to attend to the mother during and after the delivery. In Malacca, this person would be a Malay, while in Penang, she would be Thai. Although the period of confinement is 44 days, the midwife does not stay in the house overnight. I’m going bac k now, you be a good girl, okay? But dukun… I can’t sleep. Please stay for the night. No, I can’t stay. Have you tried counting sheep? Some four months into the pregnancy, the midwife gives the mother-to-be a bath. During this, she recites incantations while sponging her with water scented with limes and flowers. 123

At the start of the labour, a nail is inserted into the mother’s hair so that evil spirits cannot enter her body. It is also believed that if all the drawers and cupboards are left open during the delivery, the birth will be easier. Open all the cupboards and drawers! Hey, I don’t mean the windows as well! If difficulties develop, the woman will simply drink water from a glass with a key submerged in it. That is believed to take care of the problem, in that the key is supposed to help ‘open’ the womb. 124

Once the child emerges, it is handed to the helper (anak dukun or gwek ma), who takes care of it. A woman who has just given birth is weak. She is susceptible to loss of body heat and may be possessed by evil spirits. Therefore, her diet is filled with heaty food and dishes designed to build up her strength. No seafood is served though, as it is considered to be toxic. Wa… water… Try the laksa. It’ll help to increase your body heat and strength. You w ant to get Apart from preparing the mother’s back into shape? meals, the midwife also gives the Then just hold mother a special treatment to help on… ‘push’ her stomach muscles back into shape. This involves tying a six- metre cummerbund tightly around the mother’s stomach. EKKK! 125

To get rid of flatulence, the mother will sit in a chair, under which is a charcoal stove with burning old ginger roots. On the ninth and 13th day, she is given two ritual baths. Every night, AHHH! the mother is carefully tucked in, wearing woollen socks. Cotton wool is stuffed in her ears and her head is Oops… too tightly bound with handkerchiefs. hot? Deaths / Funerals Funeral customs remain pretty Chinese. Earlier coffins were large and cumbersome. In fact, some were so heavy that more than 10 men wearing yokes were required to carry the coffin. These were later replaced by western caskets. Some rich Peranakans bought their own coffins, presumably in the fear This casket is that their remaining beautiful outside and family members comfor table inside. would buy a cheap And it’s made in coffin for them. These England. are often kept in Buddhist or ancestral temples until they are needed. 126

Wakes generally last for three days and nights, with the family members keeping vigil at night. Wealthier families sometimes have a longer wake lasting at least a week. Gambling is a common pastime to indulge in during the night. We have all night to play, but hurry up! The closeness of the kin to the deceased determines the length of the mourning period. Before the Japanese Occupation, it generally lasted from a month to three years. This period is reduced if there was an impending marriage, ending at least a month before the matrimonial festivities began. Additionally, anyone in mourning will not do any visiting during the Chinese New Year. 127