Gateway to Peranakan Culture

Mourners may also wear sackcloth, its colour denoting their relationship to the deceased. Black: The deceased’s children, their spouses, younger siblings and their spouses, and the paternal grandchildren. Blue: Younger cousins, nieces and nephews. Green: The deceased’s in-laws. Relatives of the deceased who are older than him/her do not have to wear the sackcloth. Instead, they merely avoid wearing bright colours as a sign of respect. A Taoist priest may help to clean and dress the body before it is placed in the coffin. A pearl, sometimes wrapped in a betel leaf, is placed in the mouth to prevent the corpse from coming alive or talking. There’s a cat sitting on Dad’s casket…. What should we do? Cats are not allowed anywhere near the corpse. It is believed that if one were to jump over it, the corpse might come to life. However, if this did happen, the Peranakans would not worry too much about it. They know that the corpse would soon perish again, after tripping over one of the thresholds found in the house. 128

The deceased is dressed in the clothes worn on the eve of his/her wedding. Some of the deceased’s favourite clothes and jewellery are placed inside the coffin. Silver paper replicas of bank notes are then used to cover the corpse. Death is regarded as a continuation of one’s existence, so paper replicas of items that the deceased had longed for or would need in the afterlife are burnt. Such replicas include money, houses and even servants (made of paper, that is!). Traditionally, visitors to a wake received two small red candles and a short length of red thread to ward off any negative influence. The candles would be lit and left by a roadside; the visitors would not bring them home. Today, usually only red thread is given. 129

Upon returning home, the visitors should wash their faces before stepping into their homes. This is supposed to wash away any remnants of death that might have clung to them, so that their family members would not be affected by the event. This is in addition to the basin of water filled with flowers offered to them to wash their faces when they leave the wake. 130

In old Malacca, bridges were supposed to have been guarded by spirits. Therefore, when the body was carried to the cemetery, the deceased’s sons would kneel at every bridge before the procession crossed it. Doing so was supposed to ensure the soul’s pleasant journey to heaven. A bamboo stave with a paper lantern hanging from it is carried by the deceased’s son. The name and age of the deceased are written on a banner, which is held by a son- in-law. At the grave, prayers are chanted by a Taoist priest, then all the paper effigies and replicas are burnt. 131

Chinese New Year Like the Chinese, the Peranakans regard the Chinese New Year as the most important festival of the year. In the earlier days, ronggeng musicians were hired to play at Peranakan homes, especially those households whose members were avid pantun lovers. For westernised Peranakans, it is during this time that they pride themselves most on their Chinese heritage, going all out to don Chinese attire, doing everything according to Chinese customs. As mentioned before, the Peranakans are a superstitious lot. Therefore, they would observe all the customs and traditions to the letter, to ward off any bad luck that might be lurking, and to ensure that good luck and fortune follow their every pursuit. * ¼ª: Chinese character for luck. 132

One thing that merits special mention is the practice of gambling during this period. In the past, the local authorities had attempted to curb the widespread practice of gambling. However, for the 15 days of the Chinese New Year, this restriction was lifted as they had mistakenly thought that gambling was one of the customs of the occasion! 133

The Jade Emperor’s Birthday (Ninth Day of the Chinese New Year) Long ago, during the Song Dynasty, on the Jade Emperor’s (Ti Kong) birthday, a city populated by Hokkiens was invaded by a foreign army. Charge! It’s clobbering time! The foreign army proved to be too strong and the people fled, heading for the fields of sugarcane in desperation. Come back and Sorr y, not fight, you today! cowards! 134

There, they hid in the field and thus escaped I’d rather be a detection. chicken than a Come out! pork chop! Come out, Yippee! you chicken! Hurra y!The Jade Emperor took pity on us and sa ved us from this ordeal! Today, the Hokkiens present offerings to the Jade Emperor as they believe that he had helped their ancestors flee. The offerings include sugarcane, fruits and vegetable dishes. From the eve of the Chinese New Year, they display a stem of sugarcane on both sides of the front door outside the house. These are removed on the fourth day and replaced with two young stems on the ninth day. 135

Chap Goh Meh (Night of the 15th Day) Before women’s liberation, on the 15th day of the Girls, are you Yes, let’s Chinese New Year, ready to have party! unmarried Nyonyas spent some fun? the afternoon in rapt anticipation. For that evening, they would be allowed out of the house, after being kept out of the public eye once they turned 12. Let me From 7pm to midnight, meet my traffic would be Prince diverted. The girls, Charming decked in jewellery and wearing their ... finest clothes, would Hey! venture out in open Stop that! horse-drawn carriages, rickshaws, bullock 136 carts or on foot. They would be accompanied by a chaperon. The girls would strive to cross seven bridges, which symbolised their crossing the different stages of life. As they made their way across, they would wish for a good husband and throw oranges into the river.

As for unmarried men, they would either sit on specially provided chairs along the road, or even sing some verses dondang sayang style. This custom did not catch on with the Peranakans in Singapore and Malacca, and was practised more prominently by those in Penang. Dragon Boat Festival Peranakans spend this festival making and eating dumplings. Unlike the dumplings made by the Chinese, those made by the Peranakans are sweeter, have a coriander flavour and are wrapped in pandan leaves. In addition, the Peranakans also make kwey chang abu, which is tasteless and does not contain any meat. This is eaten by dipping it in melted gula Malacca. The yellowish tint of the kwey chang abu is obtained through the use of a colouring agent called kee, which is made from dried and ground durian skin. 137

Ong Yah Festival This festival falls on the first of the ninth moon, and is observed by Peranakans who are avid Taoists. Devotees partake in vegetarian meals and refrain from entertainment and liquor. A legend accompanies this festival. During the Tang Dynasty, the High Priest of Taoism, Teo Tian Soo, was renowned for his magical powers. Emperor Li Shi Min wanted to test his powers. He ordered 360 musicians to practise playing a strange, eerie-sounding piece of music. Then, he despatched them to a room below the throne room and sent for the High Priest. 138

139

140

141

PERANAKANS TODAY Today, the Peranakan community can be found mainly in Singapore, Malacca, Penang and Indonesia. Like many other cultures, it has experienced the dwindling of some of its elaborate or archaic traditions. Although less people speak Baba Malay or observe the entire 12-day wedding ceremony nowadays, the Peranakan culture will probably continue to be around for some time. In fact, it is experiencing a revival now, as the younger generation recognises the need to practise and preserve its unique traditions. And rightfully so, for the Peranakan culture deserves a place in the future, both for the benefit of its descendants, as well as the unique role its members have commanded in regional history. Some Peranakan Associations in Southeast Asia Persatuan Peranakan Cina Melaka 149 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, 75200 Malacca. Tel/Fax: 06-2837215. Website: www.peranakanmelaka.com/ President: Dato’ Khoo Keat Siew Persatuan Peranakan Cina Pulau Pinang 13 Jalan Perak Road, 10150 Penang. Peranakan Association (in Phuket) Phuket Cultural Centre 21 Thepkrasattree Road A. Muang, Phuket 83000. Tel: (076) 240475-7, 211959 ext. 148 The Peranakan Association (Singapore) Raffles City, PO Box 1640 Singapore 911755. Website: www.peranakan.org.sg/ President: Mr Lee Kip Lee 145

Glossary of Common Phrases English Baba Malay Good morning. Selamat pagi. Good afternoon. Selamat tengah hari. Good evening. Selamat petang. How are you? Apa kabar? I am fine. Kabar baik. My name is ... Nama saya ... Thank you. Kam siah. Don’t mention it. Sama-sama. I am sorry. I am sorry. Happy birthday! Jangan marah. (Don’t be angry.) Happy birthday! Do come again! Senang datang! Goodbye. Bye bye! 143

144

145

146

MAP OF KATONG / JOO CHIAT JOO CHIAT PLACE STILL RD RAMBUTAN RD MALACCA MANGIS RD H OTEL JOO CHIAT RD Chilli Padi Nonya JOO CHIAT LANE K OON SENG RD ECON Restaurant Pte Ltd KATONG NURSING 11 Joo Chiat Place, #01-03 HOME PRESBY Guan Hoe Soon Restaurant CH 214 Joo Chiat Road SIM POH SENG TP PULASAN RD CEYLON LANE RAMBAI RD K OON SENG RD DUKU RD ONAN RD EVERITT RDSION CHR CH CARPMAEL RD CEYLON RD TEMBELING RD PENNEFATHER RD JOO CHIAT RD HOTEL 81 BETHESDA JOO CHIAT (KATONG) CH DUKU RD Peranakan Inn 210 East Coast Road MARSHALL RD MARSHALL LANE BETHANY Katong Antique House CHAPEL CLOSE EMMANUEL 208 East Coast Road KENG RD MISSIONS CHEO W TOONG CHAI PRESBY CH ST. HILDA’S Bebe’s Niche TEMBELING CH OF THE CH 86 East Coast Road, CTR #01-15/16 HOLY FOWLIE RD EAST COAST RD TAY FAMILY BU AN KATONG G UAN SEA AVE SERAYA RD BLDG EAST COAST RD KATMOANLGL CHIAT RD JOO MUGLISTON RD KRAOTXOBYNRSGOQOPLKAEZRAD CH OF KATONG SEHAOSTPPCIONAGSCTTRRD EAST COAST RD S’PORE EAST COAST RD HAIG RD PARAMOUNT Straits Antique & Collectibles SHOPPING CTR #02-102, Roxy Square PARAMOUNT HOTEL CENTURY ROXY PARK H OTEL 147

148

149

PERANAKAN NETWORK FOR DINING AND SHOPPING IN MALAYSIA MALACCA Restoran Manis Sayang 617–618 Taman Melaka Raya. Bayonya Tel: 06-2813393. 164 Taman Melaka Raya. Tel: 06-2922192. Restoran Nancy’s Kitchen (in Old China Café) Heeren House 15 Jalan Hang Lekir, off Jalan Tun 1 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock. Tan Cheng Lock. Tel: 06-2836099. Tel: 06-2814241 Fax 06-2814239. Restoran Nyonya Makko Jonkers Melaka Restoran 123 Jalan Taman Melaka Raya, 17 Jalan Heng Jebat. (off Jalan Parameswara). Tel: 06-2840737 Fax: 06-2837490. Kenny’s Kitchen 151 Jalan Tan Cheng Lock. Restaurant Nyonya Suan Tel: 06-2819191 Fax: 06-2813311. 12/14 Jalan PM3, Plaza Mahkota, Bandar Hill. Tel: 06-2864252. Nam Hoe Villa (Restoran Peranakan) Restoran Ole Sayang 317C Klebang Besar (6km towards 198/199 Taman Melaka Raya. Port Dickson). Tel: 06-3154436. Tel: 06-2831966/06-2834384. Fax: 06-2833315. Nyonya 88 676 Jalan Melaka Raya 8, Taman Seri Nyonya Peranakan Melaka Raya. Tel: 06-2881034. Restaurant Hotel Equatorial Melaka, Bandar Restoran Bibik Neo Hilir, Malacca 75000. No 6, Ground Floor, Jalan Merdeka, Tel: 06 2828333 Fax: 06 2829333. Taman Meleka Raya. Tel/Fax: 06-2817054.

PENANG Where to Shop in Malacca: Butik She-Dazz 77 Restaurant F57A First Floor, Mahkata Parade, 77 Gurney Drive. Jalan Merdeka. Tel: 06-2841400. Dragon King Restaurant Malacca Gaya Kasut Manik 99 Lebuh Bishop, Georgetown. 57, Jalan Tengkera. Tel: 04-2618035. Tel: 06-2843942. Hot Wok Café Souvenir Meng 125D Desa Tanjung, Jalan Tanjung. No. 111 Jalan Hang Jebat. Tel: 04-8990858. Tel/Fax: 06-2822169. Nyonya Corner Spice Route 15 Jalan Pahang. 39 Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonker Walk). Tel: 06-2841669 Fax: 06-2312677. Sa Chew Restaurant 37B Jalan Cantonment. Museum in Malacca: Tel: 04-2280488. Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum 48/50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, KUALA LUMPUR 75200 Malacca. Tel/Fax: 06-2831273. Kapitan’s Club 35 Jalan Ampang (opposite Standard Chartered Bank). Tel: 03-20310242 Fax 03-20701919. Nyonya Wok Second Floor, Bukit Bintang Plaza, Jalan Bukit Bintang. Tel: 03-21410061. Old China Café 11 Jalan Balai Polis. Tel: 03-20725919 Fax 03-20261897. Sri Penang Lower Ground Floor, Menara Aik Hua, Changkat Raja Chulan.

CULTURE origins Origins of Chinese Festivals, the signature title of this best- selling series, is representative of the accessible approach to all things Chinese provided by the books in this showcase. Bestselling Series... still growing! • Origins of Chinese Festivals ISBN 978-981-229-378-7 • Origins of Chinese People & Customs ISBN 978-981-229-384-8 • Origins of Chinese Names ISBN 978-981-229-462-3 • Origins of Chinese Culture ISBN 978-981-229-407-4 • Origins of Chinese Food Culture ISBN 978-981-229-318-3 • Origins of Chinese Tea and Wine ISBN 978-981-229-369-5 • Origins of Chinese Cuisine ISBN 978-981-229-317-6 • Origins of Chinese Music ISBN 978-981-229-475-3 • Origins of Chinese Art & Craft ISBN 978-981-229-441-8 • Origins of Chinese Science & Technology ISBN 978-981-229-376-3 • Origins of Chinese Sports ISBN 978-981-229-488-3 • Origins of Chinese Martial Arts ISBN 978-981-229-268-1 • Origins of Chinese Shaolin Kung Fu ISBN 978-981-229-408-1 • Origins of Chinese Language ISBN 978-981-229-507-1 • Origins of Chinese Literature ISBN 978-981-229-522-4 • Origins of Chinese Opera ISBN 978-981-229-525-5

153

154

You are probably familiar with the spicy Peranakan cuisine or even have friends who are great at cooking it. But there is definitely more to the Peranakan culture than what’s cooking in the kitchen. Have you ever wondered why they speak the way they do? Why are they always singing the dondang sayang? What is the big deal about cherkigames? And, more importantly, what does it mean to be a Peranakan? With a heritage that combines the best of the Chinese and Malay cultures, the hybrid nature of the Peranakans has yielded enviable works of art in the realm of architecture, embroidery, beadwork and the culinary arts. Join us on a colourful journey into the history, lifestyle and unique character of the Peranakan people. Asiapac Culture Series Gateway to Peranakan Culture Gateway to Malay Culture Gateway to Indian Culture Gateway to Chinese Culture Gateway to Eurasian Culture Gateway to World Religions Culture/Asian Studies ISBN 978-981-229-907-9 (Ebook)