Gateway to Peranakan Culture

Initially, the baju panjang was made of cotton. Later, silk voile was used instead. The Bibik’s undergarment is called a baju dalam. By the late 1910s and 1920s, the Nyonyas started wearing the kebaya, a fashion that started in the Dutch West Indies. This embroidered blouse is worn over batik sarongs with floral designs. It is shorter than the baju panjang and allows fashionable Nyonyas to cut a decidedly more elegant figure. Simpler designs were found on attire worn on normal days. The earlier kebayas were not embroidered, but had heavily laced edges. Photo courtesy of Amor Meus. 44

Although different types of kerosangs may be used, they always come in threes. In relation to the baju panjang, the kerosang serong (angle) is often used. The kerosang serong consists of the kerosang hati-hati and two brooches. The kerosang hati-hati is larger and heart-shaped, and is worn with the pointed end directed towards the wearer’s left. Occasionally, Nyonyas allowed themselves to be influenced by Chinese fashion, and they would then dress up in cheongsams and samfoos. Over time, from the 1930s onwards, western attire edged its way into the Nyonya’s wardrobe. This was particularly true for those who had converted to Christianity. It was also seen as a status symbol, and was usually worn when associating with the British. 45

Attire for Men As for the men, they would most probably be seen wearing the baju lok chuan. This attire consisted of a long-sleeved silk jacket and comfortable loose-fitting trousers. Later, they converted to a baju tutup. 46

As early as the 19th century, the Babas wore western attire most of the time. This was particularly true in the workplace, where he would imitate the dress of his colonial employers and wear a white cotton shirt and tie. It came to a point when he would feel uneasy if he was outside the house without a shirt and tie. If he felt fashionable on that day, he might even don a sports jacket, a bow tie and a straw hat, and bring along a walking cane. Photo courtesy of Katong Antique House. By the 1930s, the attire of the Baba became distinctively western, and he would seldom be seen wearing the Chinese garb of his ancestors. However, he might sometimes wear comfortable sarongs at home. 47

Pantang (Taboos) and Superstitions Belief in the supernatural and astrology was rampant, especially among the older generation. You may find that many beliefs and superstitions held by the Chinese and the Malays were also held by the Peranakans. While there is no doubt the Peranakans are a superstitious lot, one should remember that they were no more superstitious than any other culture in those early times. This section lists just a few of these superstitions: - Babies who giggled and smiled at thin air were amused by the antics of their guardian angels. Every baby was believed to have one. - Children were advised to finish up every bit of rice on their plate so that they would not end up with a pock-faced spouse. Ha, ha! Sis didn’t finish a grain of rice! Her husband will have lots of pimples! - Young boys would be treated to some chicken soup once they percha suara (their voices broke). - Discarded fingernails and hair were carefully disposed of, so that they could not be used for witchcraft. - If one wished to retain a full head of hair, one should never open an umbrella while indoors. 48

Religion In the earlier days, most Peranakans practised Taoism and Buddhism. They would follow the rites and rituals of the Chinese traditions faithfully, engaging in daily prayer at the ancestral altar. On feast days or special occasions, they would semayang (offer sacrificial food) to their ancestors. The altar would be covered with a red cloth and food offerings would be placed on it, with candles lit and joss sticks burnt. In the kitchen, there would be an altar dedicated to the Kitchen God. Whenever illness struck, the Peranakan family would turn to its collection of prescriptions for various illnesses. These folk medicinal cures normally used traditional herbs, spices and perhaps an obscure Let’s animal part or two. see... to cure Every Peranakan family someone with had their own unique flu, ask him to get plenty of list, handed down over rest. the generations. Naturally, some cures were more effective, and these were jealously guarded, their contents revealed only to trusted and close family members. 49

At other times, a Chinese medium would be consulted. Prescription was in the form of a hoo, a rectangular piece of yellow paper on which the medium would inscribe Chinese characters while in a trance. This hoo would be burnt, and its ashes dropped in a glass of water, which would be drunk by the stricken person. Come my son, drink this hoo medicine, it’ll make you well. Er... no thanks mum... It’s only a flu. Over time, due to their increased contact with westerners, more Peranakans converted to Christianity and abandoned their Chinese traditions. Apart from visiting the Tua Pek Kong Temple on Kusu Island, some Peranakans also worship at the Malay shrine on the same island. Of course, those who go to both places are careful that their offerings do not contain any pork or lard. 50

Origins of the Ancestral Tablet Once, there lived a I hate doing young goatherd and his this! I wish I mother. It was the boy’s could play with responsibility to take my friends! care of the goats while they were out grazing in the fields. Why are you late? I’m Hello, son! I’ve brought you starving! your lunch! Every day, without fail, his mother would faithfully cook lunch for him. As the years passed, the boy became resentful. He grew over-critical and complained over every little thing. At times, his temper even caused him to strike his mother. All these the old woman bore without complaint. 51

Through a matchmaker, a good wife was found. When the boy came of age, his mother suggested that he get married so that his wife could tend the goats instead. The boy agreed. One day, the old woman was so excited about the impending marriage that she forgot to prepare lunch for her son. So she hastily cooked the meal and rushed off to the field. Oh dear, oh dear... In the fields, the young man was tending the goats when something caught his eye. 52

A hungry kid was walking towards its mother. Baaah... The young man, seeing that the kid had to kneel to get at its mother’s milk, suddenly thought of his own mother. Even an animal knows of filial piety. What does that make me? 53

I’ve treated my mother so badly in the past... I must tell her how sorry I am... Mother! Come here! Mother! Wait, Mother! Oh no! Why is Mother 54 running to the river?

Mother! Don’t jump! Fearing for her life, the old woman jumped into the river and was swept away by the currents. The villagers spent days searching unsuccessfully for her body. Hmm, what’s this? A piece of driftwood floated to shore. For the boy, this was a sign from his mother, telling him that she was all right. He took the driftwood home, placed it on an altar and faithfully worshipped it till his death. 55

Baba Malay To say that Baba Malay is a mixture of English, Malay and Hokkien is too simplistic. What the Peranakans have done is to choose the specific aspects of each language that they have found palatable and moulded them into something new. Little consideration is paid to the elements of language like grammar and the sentence structure of Malay. Still, there is no doubt that within Baba Malay, a unique patois has emerged. Peranakans tend to mispronounce certain vowels and syllables. Their unique patois has led to words and phrases that have become renowned as true-blue Peranakan linguistic fare. Here are several examples extracted from Mas Sepuloh by William Gwee Thian Hock: Word Attributes Word Examples Malay Pronunciation Baba Pronunciation Words ending with ‘a’. Saya, apa, punya Sayer, aper, punyer Sayah, apah, punyah Peranakans pronounce it with an ‘ah’ sound, whereas Malays pronounce it as ‘er’. Words ending with ‘l’, Kapal, besar, Ka-pal, be-sar, panas Ka-pair, be-sair, ‘ar’ and ‘as’. panas pa-nair Peranakans pronounce it with an ‘air’ sound. Words ending with ‘ai’. Cherai, pandai, Cheray, panday, Peranakans pronounce ramai ramay it with an ay’ sound. Words ending with ‘au’. Pisau, sengau, Piso, sengo, silo. Peranakans pronounce silau it with an ‘o’ sound. Words that begin with Hitam, hidung, Uitam, idung, ujan, ‘h’. Peranakans do hujan, hujung, ujong, utan without the ‘h’ sound. hutan Some words that end Nasi, biji Nasik, bijik with ‘i’. Peranakans pronounce them with an extra ‘k’ sound. 56

Colourful Metaphors Be warned that Peranakans have a way with words. Eavesdrop on two Nyonyas having an animated conversation, and you will be in for a linguistic experience that is hard to forget. Generally, it is enriching to sample the wide range of descriptive and imaginative ways that language can be shaped to cater to the whims of the Peranakan tongue. Here are a few examples: Takot mulot harimoh, masok mulot buaya. Someone who is afraid of the tiger’s mouth will end up in the crocodile’s mouth. Harimoh mati tinggal kan belang, manusia tinggal kan nama. The tiger leaves his stripes behind when it dies; a man’s reputation is all that remains when he dies. Buaya tak tolak bangkay. Crocodiles never refuse corpses. 57

Malays will generally have no problems understanding the Baba patois. However, if a Malay were to respond in pure Malay, chances are the Peranakan would be at a loss for words! One very unique aspect of Baba Malay spoken by some Nyonyas is their treatment of the language when they do not want an outsider to understand what they are saying. They do this by changing the position of syllables of certain words. For instance, “kernapa dia ini macham?” (why is he behaving like that?) would be changed to “pakerna dia nii chamma?”. Look at the transformation, and you will notice the following: - Words with a single syllable are left alone. - Words with two syllables are switched. - For words with three or more syllables, only the last syllable is brought to the front. Such a manner of speaking requires lots of practice. However, it is not unknown to hear two Nyonyas in an animated conversation talking in this way, without a need to pause or repeat themselves. 58

Housing The earliest shophouses were single-storey. They were situated near the coast to allow for easy movement of cargo from ships to the shop. After some time, an additional floor was added, giving the owner more space to display his wares and to expand his living quarters. The wealthier Peranakan families would normally live in terrace houses, bungalows, etc. Influences are evidently from several sources, as even a casual observer can detect the Paladian styles of the British, the embossed phoenixes on the wall panels (from China) and the imported tiles from France or Italy. These houses had high ceilings and great depth, and were decorated with architectural ornaments known as batu ribbon. The interior of the homes would contain blackwood, mother-of-pearl and rosewood furniture. In the later years, teak furniture could also be found. Ancestral Altar Reception Hall Living Room Dining Room 59

Jewellery The appeal of the jewellery worn by the Peranakan ladies lies in its uniqueness, quantity and its hybrid nature. Motifs of birds, animals, phoenixes and the Eight Immortals are common. The ladies resisted imitating existing designs and encouraged their jewellers to come up wth new designs, with ideas culled from the Malay, Chinese and European cultures. Photos courtesy of Amor Meus. The kerosangs in the top photo are from RISIS Singapore. 60

Silverware Silverware was used mainly by the richer families, and usually on ceremonial and religious occasions. In the early days, when gold was not prominent, silverware was made for the use of the Peranakans. Some of the silver was disguised as gold. Later, diamond chips were used to make beautiful kerosangs and necklaces that were worn on happy occasions. Silver was also worn during mourning periods. Most Peranakan families used porcelain utensils. Beautifully-coloured porcelain was used. These would have been imported or specially commissioned at private kilns in China and were usually of a higher quality than those currently available on the market. Bolster end (top) and pillow end (bottom). Photos courtesy of Katong Antique House. 61

Nonyaware* The level of skill required to produce even a simple porcelain bowl is evident from the intricate designs. In the earlier centuries, these nonyaware were specially commissioned and manufactured mainly in Jingdezhen in Jiangxi province, China. Also called Shanghai ware, they often had overglazed enamel designs that required two separate firings. Amidst the many colours of pink, blue, green and yellow, the designs are mainly of flowers, leaves and trees. The blue and white wares are generally used as daily ware as well as for solemn occasions such as holding ancestral offerings. It also denotes a mourning period. In contrast, for the Chinese, the colours of white and blue, sometimes found in their ceramics, denotes wealth. Throughout the product range, two motifs keep recurring: the phoenix and the peony. * While “nyonyaware” is also acceptable, it is seldom used. 62

If you are thinking of taking up embroidery, make sure you have lots of patience. However, holding the finished product in your hands is truly rewarding. Photos of handbag, top pair of kasut manek and pidangan courtesy of Katong Antique House. Photos of other kasut manek courtesy of Amor Meus.

The exquisite beauty of the embroideredkebayas and other cloth materials belies the time and effort needed to create them. Photo of the green kebaya courtesy of Amor Meus. Other photos on this page and facing page courtesy of Katong Antique House.



The sights and pageantry of a Peranakan wedding. Photos on this page and the facing page are courtesy of Katong Antique House.

The Chinese almanac used in the chiu thau ceremony. Even the simple sapu tangan (handkerchief) is turned into a work of art.



Found mostly in Emerald Hill and the East Coast and Joo Chiat areas, the architecture of the Peranakan houses are often beautifully ornate. Many Peranakans settled in the East Coast but certain areas such as Emerald Hill were also popular with them. In the 1930s, 45 out of 115 houses in Emerald Hill were occupied by Peranakan families. The buildings successfully fused European designs with Chinese features such as raised floors, gabled walls and pier bases. Exteriors were painted in pastel shades inspired by the soft hues of Peranakan porcelain while plaster motifs were sculpted to resemble traditional embroidery.

Achar. Ayam Buah Keluak. Photos on this page and the facing page are courtesy of Chilli Padi Nonya Restaurant Pte Ltd.

Bakwan Kepiting. Ngoh Hiang.

Udang kering. Belachan. Buah keluak. Lime leaves and chilli. Dried lily buds. Gula Malacca.

Some items used by a Nyonya in the olden days: (from top) pestle and mortar, charcoal iron, porcelain pillow, more pounding equipment. Photo of the pillows courtesy of Tan Tock Seng Hospital. Other photos on this page and the facing page courtesy of Chilli Padi Nonya Restaurant Pte Ltd.

The phoenix are frequently depicted on most eating utensils like bowls and plates. Photos on this page and the facing page are courtesy of Katong Antique House.

Witness as the primary colour of blue is transformed into a work of art. Even something as functional as a food carrier becomes an item to behold.

A soapbox, teapot, chopstick holder and jar: Items like these were formerly used as part of daily life. Today, they are treasured as family heirlooms. Photo of jar courtesy of Katong Antique House. Other photos on this page and the facing page courtesy of Amor Meus. The kerosangs are from RISIS Singapore.

Of kerosangs, hairpins and a belt... just some of the things that a Nyonya uses to accessorise.

Like most Chinese, the Peranakans regard the Chinese New Year as a time to celebrate with family and friends. They are likely to spend it feasting on good food and indulging in a spot of gambling!

LEISURE ACTIVITIES OF THE PERANAKANS Most Peranakans were well-off, so they were able to indulge in more leisure activities than most people. Their skills in embroidery and beadwork were rivalled only by their passion for stage plays and dondang sayang. 63

Sewing, Beadwork and Embroidery Any Nyonya worth her salt would have been skilled in sewing, beadwork and embroidery. The quality of her beading reflected her good upbringing, as much patience and skill is required to make them. For someone who had been introduced to and trained in these activities from the age of 12, the perfection of such skills would be easy to attain. Ouch... Photos courtesy of Katong Antique House. 64

True to the hybrid nature of the culture, the materials used were not just obtained locally. The beads, thread and sewing instruments could be imported from China, Italy or England. Only the best materials would satisfy the fastidious nature of the Peranakan lady. Gold or silver thread (sometimes metal) was interwoven with silk thread, so that a perfect balance was achieved. Elaborate designs are evident in most of the items used. During the wedding ceremony, elaborate and fine designs can be found in the sapu tangan, belts, kneepads, kasut manek and pillowcases. Take a closer look at the designs and you will spot motifs of deities, animals, phoenixes, dragons, flowers and pictorial symbols. As in Malay designs, people are rarely depicted. Fabric patterns. Kebaya. Cloth placed at an altar. All photos above courtesy of Katong Antique House. 65

Kasut Manek (Beaded Slippers) The kasut manek comes in different styles and form. It is the beadwork of the Nyonyas, and the patterned images of plants and animals were handmade, reflecting their skill in beading. There are kasut manek for the Babas as well. Everything is done by hand. The kasut manek is sewn by hand individually, with beautiful cut beads. A wooden frame, or pidangan, is often used in the sewing of the kasut manek. The required pattern is painstakingly sewn onto the material with the help of a pidangan. After weeks, even months of hard work, the finished product is ready! Most ladies require a sample of the design or cross-stitch patchwork to guide them in the manufacture of the kasut manek. It would be placed in front of them when they sew, so that they can refer to it. However, Bibiks with decades of sewing experience can easily sew from memory! 66

Reading as a Hobby Some Peranakans were avid readers. They would spend their time reading the newspapers, magazines and English literary classics. By the 19th century, most Babas could not understand Chinese and were unable to read the literary classics from China. Fortunately, there were Malay versions of Chinese classics like Romance of the Three Kingdoms*, The Eight Immortals and Water Margin. Photos courtesy of Katong Antique House. * Commonly known as Sam Kok. 67

Dondang Sayang This refers to the composing and singing of pantun, a Malay verse comprising four lines. In it, the first line rhymes with the third line, and the second with the fourth. Themes centre on love, courage, virtue, etc. Often, the creation of the verses were made on the spot, to the tune of Dondang Sayang. This was a special skill acquired by the Peranakans who were even praised by the Malays themselves. Often, on stage, pantunswere sung to the tune of Dondang Sayang. Then, patrons on the dance floor would be dancing the ronggeng and joget. A musical band, similar to this one performing at the Peranakan Festival 2002, would provide the music for the singers. 68

Peranakan Stage Plays and Musicals Most of you would be familiar with Emily of Emerald Hill. Even if you have not seen the stage play, you would know that the play revolves around a strong- willed matriarch who lives in Emerald Hill. More recently, the year 2002 saw the debut of the Peranakan Association’s first musical Bibiks Behind Bars. However, you would be mistaken if you think that the Peranakan stage is limited to these two productions. Peranakan plays were modelled after the bangsawan, or Malay drama. These plays were so popular that even the rehearsals were sold out. The plots followed a certain format, wherein the good characters must be rewarded, and the bad would receive their just deserts at the end of the play. A 1958 ad publicising yet another Peranakan play. 69

Even with such diverse female characters like the stern mother-in-law, dutiful wife and Cantonese Ah Sum, it was a truly all-male cast. Male actors played the female characters as well, as women’s freedom was restricted at that time. This they did with much finesse, conveying to the audience the grace and dignity that would befit a woman of that stature. Director, are you sure he’s a prettier female lead than me? Oh, yes, but only when he remembers to shave in the morning. It was only after the Second World War that Peranakan actresses started making their presence felt. Still, female impersonators continue to take on prominent roles; they have become somewhat of a tradition in Peranakan plays. Even in some present-day productions, at least one female role is played by a male actor. 70

Interview with Peranakan Actor Francis Hogan We present a short interview with diva Francis Hogan, a seasoned stage actor who came out of retirement in 2002 to perform in the hit stage musical Bibiks Behind Bars. You are a well-known figure in the Peranakan Hogan, as a young actor and theatre. Can you tell me more about your acting one of Singapore’s most versatile female impersonators. experience? As an actor, you have to know the role that you are taking. You must know the role and you must know the person’s character very well. Only then can you act that person very convincingly. What do you do to find out more about the character? Through the story, and from the director. You have to make a picture in your mind, to find out what this person is like. I did this for my previous roles in Nasib Anak Tiri and Kehidopan Si Buta, which I scripted, produced and acted. I was also the assistant director for that production. It came out very well. The audience gave us a very good response. How did you train? There was no training at all. We practised every day, every week. From there, we improved on our performance, and we learnt more about that character. I just acted, and the character came out automatically. Right now, I am Francis Hogan. But if I dress up as a woman, I become a woman, I take that character. I no longer think of myself as Francis Hogan. Have you always played female roles? Yes, they prefer me to act the female roles. When I dress up as a female, I don’t look like a male anymore. Even my friends could not recognise me. What’s the most difficult aspects of being a woman? Well, I have to be soft all the time, in my actions and in my speech. My face must smile all the time. The way I walk and sit, it is not like how a man would do it, which is very rugged. As a woman, the way you walk and the way you talk must be very graceful. 71

When did you retire? I retired in the 1960s, after acting in seven or eight stories. I got tired of acting. In those days, all my roles required me to cry. The audience liked me to cry, I don’t know why. They liked my tears more than me, I think. Why did you decide to come out of retirement? Hogan, as a bride in Kehidopan Si Buta. My most beloved sister, Emily Hogan, encouraged me to make a comeback on the stage. Also, I would like to thank Georgie Lee, who introduced me to the [Peranakan] Association. I am very honoured that the Association accepted me as anak wayang (actor). I am also very grateful to my director Richard Tan, who built me up as a Peranakan star in the musical Bibiks Behind Bars. The language in Peranakan stage plays contains English, Malay and Hokkien. Do you think the audience would have difficulty following the plot? The younger Peranakans today don’t speak the language much. They speak English, Chinese dialects and Mandarin. I think that the Peranakan language will be forgotten eventually. Some of them don’t even know simple Peranakan words. They have to ask someone to translate them into English. How do you feel about this? I feel a bit sad. As Peranakans, we have to carry on with the culture. Today’s Peranakans don’t wear the sarong kebaya. Some of them even wear the kebaya with pants. It’s modernised now, 2003-style. I don’t blame them, because kebayas are very expensive. It projects a high standard of living, because of the embroidery and the sarong. You cannot wear a cheap sarong. What does it mean to be a Peranakan, for you? Oh, I feel that to be a Peranakan is very cute. People listen to our language and say that the way we talk is very cute. The number of Peranakans in Singapore is not big, we don’t see those matriarchs with thesanggol on the roads anymore. I find that to be a Peranakan is very cute yet extraordinary. What do you hope to see in the future for the Peranakan culture? I hope to see more ladies wearing more sarong kebayas. I also hope that more Peranakans will talk and converse in the Peranakan language. 72

PERANAKAN FOOD The cuisine of the Peranakans merits special mention. A fusion of Malay and Chinese cuisine, the results are dishes that are unique, yet familiar. 73

Peranakans at the Dining Table Although many Peranakan cookbooks abound, Peranakan cuisine is still considered an art. Printed recipes can only do so much, as the other portion of the work — that elusive X-factor — depended on the innate skills of the Nyonya chef. Besides elements of Malay and Chinese, Peranakan cuisine also contains hints of Indian, Indonesian and perhaps Thai food. As a result, the dishes tend to be spicy and pungent. I can’t eat Not so fast! The anymore. The laksa is coming dishes are too up next! spicy! 74

Peranakan cuisine is one in which the best of several cultures are combined and integrated to create a totally new type of cuisine altogether, one that’s truly a melting pot, containing the best from several cultures. One can find Malay and Chinese dishes alongside dishes that hint of influences originating from Indonesian, Indian, Dutch, Portuguese and British cuisines. In fact, many traditional Peranakan dishes have passed the taste test and are now an integral part of the Singapore culinary palette. Such dishes include nasi lemak, lontong, Penang laksa, mee siam, otak otak, and the many kuehs sold at the nearby coffeeshop. Some people may be curious at the presence of chopsticks in the Peranakan household, since the Peranakans have done away with its use since the late 19th century. Well, these eating utensils are not used during mealtimes, but during the elaborate wedding ceremonies as well as some festive celebrations honouring their ancestors. Additionally, the chopsticks also serve to remind the Peranakans of their Chinese heritage. Otak-otak dish. Photo courtesy of Chilli Padi Nonya Restaurant Pte Ltd. 75

Eating In When it was time to entertain guests, the Peranakan would treat them to a sumptuous meal at home. Seldom would the guests have to venture out into the restaurants. The wealthy families would often engage a professional chef or Ah Teng, usually a Hainanese, to cook the three meals of the day. They would then learn the culture’s unique cooking methods and dishes from the lady of the house. Older Peranakans may be familiar with the tok panjang (literally ‘long table’), which made its appearance when there were a lot of guests. A long table would be set up, and many dishes prepared and placed on it. Little bowls containing sambal belachan* and achar would be placed at regular intervals, alongside the larger plates containing ayam buah keluak, itek tim, Nyonya mee, etc. The guests would eat in shifts. One group would eat at a section of the table, and once they were done, the dishes would be replenished and another group of diners would take their place. They’re eating so slowly! Hmm... my stomach’s growling. Hey you! Hurry up! Grrr! Contrary to the practice today, Peranakan guests would never think of piling several dishes together on the rice dish. Doing so would mask the subtle flavours of certain dishes. To fully appreciate the unique tastes of each individual dish, the guests would eat the dishes one at a time. * Sometimes spelt ‘belacan’. 76

The Nyonya Chef Young Nyonyas learnt how to cook from their mothers and aunts. Within the confines of the kitchen, they were instructed on the preparation of many Nyonya dishes. Under such expert supervision, it is no wonder that the Nyonyas became excellent cooks! Nyonyas believed that hard work and diligence were integral to a finely-cooked dish. They did not believe in shortcuts, and would not think twice about spending days in the preparation of a dish. Therefore, having mastered the art of cooking elaborate dishes like itek tim and ayam buah keluak, the Nyonya chef often felt that she was above simple dishes like fried rice or scrambled eggs. I didn’t teach you cooking so that you can cook fried rice every day. But I like fried rice ... 77