Sewing Machine Operator

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Skipped stitches in jeans: Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle misses the looper loop. Skips are usually found where one seam crosses another seam and most of the time occurs right before or right after heavy thickness. The solutions are using core-spun thread, minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch, the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize flagging, training sewing operators not to stop on the thickness, making sure the machine is feeding properly without stalling and the machine is not back-feeding. Skipped stitches in jeans Unravelling buttons: This is where a tail of thread is visible on the topside of the button and when pulled, the button falls off. To avoid this use a quality sewing thread to minimize skipped stitches, specify attaching the buttons with a lockstitch instead of a single thread chain stitch button sewing machine. Broken stitches (due to chemical degradation in jeans): The thread in seam is degraded by the chemicals used during laundering resulting in loss or change of colour and seam failure. The solutions include using higher performance Perma Core NWT that has higher resistance to chemical degradation. It is recommended to go for larger thread sizes when the denim garments are subjected to harsh chemical washes. Ensure proper water temperature and pH levels, and proper amount and sequence of chemical dispersion as per guidelines and proper rinsing and neutralizing. Monitor the drying process, cycle time, and temperature Page | 101

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Unravelling seams in jeans: Generally occurs on 401 chain stitch seams where either the stitch has been broken or a skipped stitch has occurred. This will cause seam failure unless the seam is re stitched. The solutions include using a high performance Perma Core or DCore thread that will minimize broken stitches and skipped stitches, ensuring proper maintenance and adjustments of sewing machine and training sewing operators for correct material handling techniques. Unravelling seams in jeans Sagging or rolling pockets: Where the pocket does not lay flat and rolls over after laundering. The solutions include making sure the sewing operators are not holding back excessively when setting the front pocket, the hem is formed properly and that excessive fabric is not being put into the folder that will cause the hem to roll over. Ensure that pocket is cut properly and pocket curve is not too deep. Use a reinforcement tape on the inside of the pocket that may help prevent the front panel from stretching along the bias where the front pocket is set. Select fabric construction as the type and weight of fabric also can contribute for this. Ragged / Inconsistent edge: This is where the edge of the seam is either extremely ―Ragged‖ or ―Rolls‖ inside the stitch. To avoid this make sure the sewing machine knives are sharpened and Page | 102

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide changed often. The knives should be adjusted properly in relation to the ―Stitch Tongue‖ on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width or width bite. Ragged / Inconsistent edge (खडे / असीगं त फकनाये) Wavy seam on stretch denim: Where the seam does not lie flat and is wavy due to the fabric stretching as it was sewn or during subsequent laundering and handling operations. To avoid this use minimum presser foot pressure. Instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques and not stretch the fabric as they are making seam. Where available, use differential feed to compensate for the stretch of the fabric. Wavy seam on stretch denim (खखचीं ाव डने नभ ऩय रहयदाय सीवन) Ropy hem: Ropy hem is where hem is not laying flat and is skewed in appearance, usually caused by poor operator handling. Sewing operator should make sure they get the hem started correctly in the folder before they start sewing and should not hold back excessively as the seam is being sewn. Use minimum roller or presser foot pressure. Page | 103

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Ropy hem Twisted legs in jeans: Twisted leg is where the side seam twists around to the front of the pant and distorts the appearance of the jeans, usually caused by poor operator handling. To avoid this sewing operator should match the front and back properly so they come out the same length. Notches might be used to ensure proper alignment. Ensure that operator does not trim off the front or back with scissors to make them come out the same length. Make sure the cut parts are of equal length coming to the assembly operation. Check fabric quality and cutting for proper skew. Make sure the sewing machine is adjusted properly for uniform feeding of the top and bottom plies. Twisted legs in jeans Disappearing stitches in stretch denim: Where the thread looks much smaller on seams sewn in the warp direction than in the weft direction of the fabric. To prevent this use a heavier thread size on top stitching [120 to 150 Tex], go to a longer stitch length [from 8 to 6 S.P.I] and make sure the thread tensions are as loose as possible so the thread sits on top of the fabric rather than burying in the fabric on seams sewn in the warp. Page | 104

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Disappearing stitches in stretch denim Thread discolouration after laundry in jeans: The thread picks up the indigo dyes from the fabric giving the thread a ‗dirty‘ appearance. A common discoloration would be the pick up of a greenish or turquoise tint. The main reasons are improper pH level, improper water temperature, improper chemical selection and shortcuts on wash methods. The solutions for this are using thread with proper colour fastness characteristics, correct pH level and low water temperature during laundry, using the proper chemicals and laundry cycles, and using denimcol PCC or similar additive in wash. Do not over load washers with too many garments at one time. Thread discolouration after laundry in jeans Poor colour fastness after laundry: The thread does not wash down consistently in the garment or changes to a different colour all together. The normal reasons are mixing threads in a garment, using threads with different colour fastness and not doing preproduction testing. To avoid this use thread with proper colour fastness characteristics, use threads from same thread supplier and do not mix threads in a garment. Always do preproduction testing on denim garments using new colours to assure that they will meet the requirements. Make sure sewing operators select thread by type and Page | 105

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide colour number and do not just pick a thread off the shelf because it looks close in colour. Poor colour fastness after laundry Minimise and dispose the waste materials in the approved manner Recycling Textile recycling is a growing practice around the country. Recycling programs often partner with donation groups to get as much use as possible out of the textiles and clothing they receive. If a recycled garment can‘t be used in a second- hand manner, it‘s often recycled into rags or processed into fibers, which can be used for things like filling for car door panels or insulation. The problem with textile recycling programs for screen printing shops is that in order to be recycled, textiles have to be clean, dry and free of chemicals. If you use these garments as shop rags, such recycling programs may not be an option for you. However, it‘s something to keep in mind if you find your clean waste or misprints running high. Some of these programs also state that they won‘t accept industrial waste, but it couldn‘t hurt to contact your local program to inquire about whether your offering is acceptable. Maybe your shop rags can be processed for fibers if you only use them for ink cleanup and run them through a dryer to cure that ink. Donations Page | 106

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide If you have a lot of garment waste that‘s clean and wearable, there are plenty of options. Check with local homeless, women‘s or children‘s shelters, which will likely have the most need for them. If not, there are several charities that will collect and send them to impoverished countries where they will be put to good use. There also may be donation options for your non-wearable textile waste. Some non- profit thrift stores sell such damaged items to companies that make rags or process them down into fibers for another use. Crafting Does your local high school have a band or athletics booster club? Many times, these groups will have craft shows to raise funds and those parents might be happy to take a load of garments off your hands to make into something else. You also can check with your local Humane Society. They often need rugs or blankets for the animals and many have partner volunteer organizations that help to make these kinds of items. Seek feedback from team mates on work related performance How to ask for feedback Asking for feedback is one of the best ways to feel ‗in control‘ of your work, get an accurate idea of what is expected of you and judge how you can improve even further. You can ask for feedback from your manager/supervisor or colleagues at any time: • Let the other person know you would like feedback so that they have time to prepare. • You can help the other person prepare by being specific about what you would like feedback on. Prepare a set of questions and let the other person see them if you have time. • Ask ‗open questions‘. These questions will often begin with the word ‗Why‘ or ‗How‘. Open questions are designed to get full and meaningful answers – they can‘t be answered with a simple ‗yes‘ or ‗no‘. • Some good ‗open‘ questions for seeking feedback are: » Why did my work on X hit the right mark for you? Page | 107

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  » How do you think I could handle Mrs Y better? » If I was really successful in this job, what would I be doing and how would I be doing it? » Why do you think I keep having this issue and how could I improve things? » What is your opinion on the way I handled that question from Mr Z? » How would you approach this if you were me? Check with in charge /others when unsure of new product details Innovative new products are the fuel for the most powerful growth engine you can connect to. You can grow without new products--AT&T sold essentially the same telephones for decades while becoming the world's largest telecommunications concern--but most small companies will find it difficult to grow at all, much less rapidly, without a constant stream of new products that meet customer needs. How do you know when you need new products? Early detection of a problem with existing products is critical. The following eight symptoms of a declining product line will provide clues far enough in advance to help you do something about the problem before it's too late. Not all the symptoms will be evident in every situation, but you can start suspecting your product line when more than just one or two crop up. 1. You're experiencing slow growth or no growth. A short-term glitch in product sales can happen any time. If, however, company revenue either flattens or declines over an extended period, you have to look for explanations and solutions. If it isn't the economy or some outside force beyond your control, if your competitors didn't suddenly become more brilliant, if you still have confidence in your sales force, and if there are no major problems with suppliers, examine your product line. Page | 108

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 2. Your top customers are giving you less and less business. It may not be worth your trouble to determine your exact market share when a rough idea of where you stand will suffice. But knowing how much business you get compared to your competitors is critical. Every piece of business your competitors are getting is business you aren't getting--and may never get. If your customers' businesses are growing and the business you get from them isn't, your product may be the culprit. Chances are, someone else is meeting your customers' needs. 3. You find yourself competing with companies you've never heard of. If you've never heard of a new competitor or don't know much about them, watch out! They have found a way to jump into a market with new products and technology that could leave you wondering what hit you. It might not be that your product has a fundamental flaw. It's more often the case that someone has brought innovation to the industry. You earn no points for status quo thinking. 4. You're under increasing pressure to lower your prices. No one likes to compete strictly on price. When your product is clearly superior and offers more value than lower-priced competitors, you don't have to. Everyone understands that great new products eventually run their course and turn into commodities. One day, a customer tells you she can't distinguish the benefits of your widget from those of one or more of your competitors, and now you are in a price squeeze. If you want the business, you have to lower your prices to stay competitive. If that was where it ended, things might stabilize, although at a lower price level. But lower prices usually mean lower profit margins, which usually mean less investment in keeping the product current, which means more price pressure, lower margins?and so it goes. Page | 109

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 5. You're experiencing higher-than-normal turnover in your sales force. Good salespeople want to win customers so they can make more money. When they have trouble competing, they can't win customers or make money. So they look for new opportunities and challenges that will bring them what they want. You'll always have turnover, but heavy turnover is a symptom of something very wrong. It could be an ill-advised change in the compensation scheme or a new sales manager coming in with a negative attitude. But it could also be that members of your sales team are frustrated because they're having trouble selling your products. When business owners start to pressure their sales forces to get order levels up, morale drops because the salespeople know there isn't much they can do. 6. You're getting fewer and fewer inquiries from prospective customers. We all dread the time when the phone stops ringing and prospects stop coming in. When advertising or other forms of promotion aren't creating the results you want, and you see fewer positive results from the money spent, something could be wrong with the way customers see your company. An obsolete product line positions you as an obsolete company. 7. Customers are asking for product changes you can't or don't want to make. Here is a not-too-subtle sign that your product may no longer meet market needs. There will be times when you have to decide whether filling a customer's request is in your company's best interests. When customers say \"I want it this way,\" you may want to say no because you doubt you could ever recover the costs of the change, even by raising the selling price. But when the customer says \"I want it this way, and it's standard at ABC Widgets,\" you should suspect you aren't keeping up with changing customer needs. When your competitors have leapt ahead of you in features and benefits, you must either catch up or leap ahead of them with innovations of your own, or you'll fall so far behind you become a marketplace postscript. Page | 110

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 8. Some of your competitors are leaving the market. In the short term, this sounds great. Your competitors drop out, and you pick up the business they leave behind. The pie is shrinking, and as it does, business gets better than ever. But beware: This is a classic signal of a declining market. Nobody walks away from a growth business. Vibrant growth markets attract new competitors; they don't discourage them. If you decide to develop new products as part of your growth plan, you're in good company. Small companies like yours contribute at least half of the major industrial innovations occurring in the United States, according to the SBA. At the same time, approximately one-third of all new products are unsuccessful, and in some industries the percentage of failures is much higher. The way to increase your chances of coming up with good ideas is to follow the tested track to new product development success. New product development can be described as a five-stage process, beginning with generating ideas and progressing to marketing completed products. In between are processes where you evaluate and screen product ideas, take steps to protect your ideas, and finalize design in an R&D stage. Following are details on each stage:  Generating ideas. Generating ideas consists of two parts: creating an idea and developing it for commercial sale. There are many good techniques for idea creation, including brainstorming, random association and even daydreaming. You may want to generate a long list of ideas and then whittle them down to a very few that appear to have commercial appeal.  Evaluating and screening product ideas. Everybody likes their own ideas, but that doesn't mean others will. When you are evaluating ideas for their potential, it's important to get objective opinions. For help with technical issues, many companies take their ideas to testing laboratories, engineering consultants, product development firms, and university and college technical testing services. When it comes to evaluating an idea's commercial potential, many entrepreneurs use the Preliminary Innovation Evaluation System (PIES) technique. This is a formal methodology for assessing the commercial potential of inventions and innovations. Page | 111

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  Protecting your ideas. If you think you've come up with a valuable idea for a new product, you should take steps to protect it. Most people who want to protect ideas think first of patents. There are good reasons for this. For one thing, you will find it difficult to license your idea to other companies, should you wish to do so, without patent protection. However, getting a patent is a lengthy, complicated process, and one you shouldn't embark on without professional help; this makes the process expensive. If you wish to pursue a patent for your ideas, contact a registered patent attorney or patent agent.  Many firms choose to protect ideas using trade secrecy. This is simply a matter of keeping knowledge of your ideas, designs, processes, techniques or any other unique component of your creation limited to yourself or a small group of people. Most trade secrets are in the areas of chemical formulas, factory equipment, and machines and manufacturing processes. The formula for Coca-Cola is one of the best-recognized and most successful trade secrets.  Finalizing design research and development. Research and development is necessary for refining most designs for new products and services. As the owner of a growing company, you are in a good position when it comes to this stage. Most independent inventors don't have the resources to pay for this costly and often protracted stage of product introduction. Most lenders and investors are trapped by a Catch-22 mentality that makes them reluctant to invest in ideas until after they're proven viable in the marketplace. If you believe in your idea, you can be the first to market.  R&D consists of producing prototypes, testing them for usability and other features, and refining the design until you wind up with something you think you can make and sell for a profit. This may involve test-marketing, beta testing, analysis of marketing plans and sales projections, cost studies, and more. As the last step before you commit to rolling your product out, R&D is perhaps the most important step of all. Page | 112

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  Promoting and marketing your product. Now that you have a ready-for- sale product, it's time to promote, market and distribute it. Many of the rules that apply to existing products also apply to promoting, marketing and distributing new products. However, new products have some additional wrinkles. For instance, your promotion will probably consist of a larger amount of customer education, since you will be offering them something they have never seen before. Your marketing may have to be broader than the niche efforts you've used in the past because, odds are, you'll be a little unsure about the actual market out there. Finally, you may need to test some completely new distribution channels until you find the right place to sell your product. Clean and make safe machines after use The nicer you are to your sewing machine, the better it will behave. This goes to the fabric you use, the thread you sew with, and of course, how often you clean it out. Read on for some dos and don'ts when giving your machine a good cleaning! DO: BRUSH THE MACHINE OUT REGULARLY Most machines come with a small plastic brush to be used in cleaning out all the lint and dust left in the easy-to-reach spots of your sewing machine. DON'T: USE CANNED AIR OR BLOW INTO YOUR MACHINE A common thought is to use canned air to blow out all the lint and dust from your sewing machine. But this is a bad idea, as when it is pushed out from the can, there is cold moisture pushed out with it, leaving small particles of moisture on the metal parts of your machine. And if we know one thing from science class, moisture does some pretty bad things to metal. Page | 113

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide DO: OIL THE MACHINE AS WRITTEN IN YOUR MANUAL When I oil and lubricate my machine, I do it exactly as it is written in my manual. I follow each and every step, one by one, following all of their tips and techniques, being careful to do precisely as it says. Most machines will come with very detailed instructions on how to oil your machine, and you can trust that their instruction is not arbitrary. So follow along closely and pay attention to what you are doing along the way. DON'T: OIL THE MACHINE IF IT TELLS YOU NOT TO All of that above being said, some machines are self-lubricating and do not need to be oiled by the user. So if the manual tells you NOT to oil your machine, trust them and do not do it yourself. I would consult with your local dealer to confirm how often it should be cleaned and serviced, as it will require maintenance even if it says that it is not to be oiled at home. DON'T: OVER OIL The instinct is to lube your machine up a ton so everything is moving smoothly and gliding really well, but over oiling can lead to a serious mess. Ask me how I know! Yep, once I absolutely over oiled my machine. A good rule of thumb: Oil a tiny bit, see how it feels, and you can always oil some more. If you do find yourself with a bit too much oil, run some muslin or scrap fabric through the machine for a bit, then wipe everything down on the exterior of the machine with a damp soapy towel. Let it sit so the oil can collect, and do it again. You might have to do this a number of times over a few days until the excess oil has worked itself out of the machine, so be patient and do not sew anything delicate as it will get oil on it! Page | 114

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide DO: ONLY TAKE SMALL AREAS APART AT A TIME When following along with your manual, only do small areas at a time. Follow the steps to disassemble, clean, brush out, and lubricate one area, then put that area all back together and move onto the next part of the machine. It can get very confusing really quickly if you have a bunch of screws and machine parts all over your sewing table, unsure of where they go. You absolutely want to put it all back just the same way you found it, so move around the machine a little at a time so you do not end up with a bunch of parts unsure of where they belong! DO: WIPE THE MACHINE WITH A RAG OFTEN After each project is a perfect time to give your machine a little TLC. Take a moment to wipe it down with a damp towel, removing any dust, lint, and anything else that might have gotten on it along the way. It will make sitting down for your next project all that much more fun, since you will be starting with a clean and happy machine! Carry out basic maintenance of own machines Your sewing machine works so hard for you that I know you want to keep her purring. Just a few hours of sewing will cause fuzz and lint to build up under the needle plate. Sometimes pieces of thread can get lost under there too. Cleaning your sewing machine regularly can prevent broken needles and mechanical problems. Your sewing machine might also need a drop or two of oil from time to time - be sure to check your manual about that. In fact, if you still have your sewing machine's manual, I highly recommend that you refer to it before you get started. Every sewing machine is different. Some of the new models don't recommend oiling at all. There may be a trick to getting the needle plate off or the hook race out (if you have one), and your manual will tell you. Page | 115

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide In this post I will show you the basic steps that I follow every month (or more often) to keep my machine clean and running smoothly. If you have any tips or comments that may also help our readers, please feel free to leave them below.: You will need at least one brush for cleaning. I like to use a soft makeup brush with a long handle and the stiff brush my machine came with. My sewing machine also takes oil.Are you ready to see how much gunk is under my needle plate??? And FYI, it has been less than a month since I last did this. Start by turning off your sewing machine, removing the extension table (if necessary), and taking out your bobbin. I have a front-loading bobbin, but you would still do these things for a top loading bobbin too. Page | 116

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide You will have to remove your needle plate to clean the fuzz and lint that collects under it. Mine snaps off like this, but my old one needle plate required removing a screw. That's why some sewing machines come with a stubby little screw driver. Page | 117

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Let's take a look inside! Not much to see down in the bobbin area but lots of stuff right under the needle plate. I must be sewing a lot lately! Start removing the lint and fuzz. I like the stiff brush for cleaning around the feed dogs... Page | 118

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide And the soft brush for picking up stray pieces. It acts kind of like a fuzz magnet. Check your manual to see how to remove your hook race so you can clean behind that too. Page | 119

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide I bought this oil with a long spout for using on my serger, but it seems to do well on my sewing machine too. According to my manual, I only need to apply one drop right behind the hook race. Keep a soft scrap of fabric handy to clean up any accidental drops. Page | 120

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Put the hook race back in and the needle plate back on... And sew a bit on a scrap of fabric to make sure everything is working smoothly and there is no excess oil. Page | 121

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Don't forget to dust and wipe down the top and front of your machine too. And if you haven't changed your needle since last month (gasp!) don't tell me that, just do it. I go through several needles a week. Report risks/ problems likely to affect services to the relevant person promptly and accurately A standard approach to risk management allows risks to be correctly prioritised across all of the University‘s operations, which in turns means that effective controls can be put in place to ensure the University is able to manage its operations effectively now and into the future. The procedure applies to all activities undertaken in the course of university business, whether on the university campuses or other locations. Responsibilities Council retains the ultimate responsibility for risk management and for determining the appropriate level of risk that the University is willing to accept. The Audit and Risk Management Committee is delegated by Council with responsibility for: overseeing the risk management activities at the University; and approving appropriate risk management procedures and measurement methodologies throughout the organisation. The Audit and Risk Management Committee will liaise with management in monitoring key risks and where appropriate will report to Council to provide assurances concerning the management of risks within the University. The Vice-Chancellor and President is responsible for ensuring that risk management activities are carried out effectively within the University. Page | 122

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide On an quarterly basis, and upon request, the Vice-Chancellor and President shall present to the Audit and Risk Management Committee an up-to-date register of the key risks for the University ie. the Risk Register. The Vice-Chancellor and President shall appoint the Risk Manager. The Risk Manager shall provide regular reports to the Vice-Chancellor and President on key risks to the University and the control and monitoring activities in place to manage those risks. The Risk Manager may be a dedicated role, or may be additional responsibilities to an existing position. The Risk Manager is responsible for ensuring that risk management activities are carried out in the university in accordance with the risk management policy and risk management procedures. The Risk Manager is responsible for providing information to the Vice- Chancellor and President to forward to the Audit and Risk Management Committee regarding the status of risk management activities since the previous meeting. A Risk Owner will be assigned for each risk area within the University. A Risk Owner is the most senior staff member within an organisational unit, which is responsible, or should be responsible, for the management of the particular risk. Where the situation arises where it is unclear as to who should be the Risk Owner for a particular risk, the Risk Manager shall assign a Risk Owner. It is the Risk Owner‘s responsibility to provide the Vice-Chancellor and President with information to report to the Audit and Risk Management Committee on progress against mitigation plans and the results of risk assessments performed on new initiatives. Page | 123

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide All University Staff shall diligently identify risks and report them to their supervisor, especially during periods of change to processes or operational practice. Staff shall comply with all risk treatments. The assurance providers play a role in monitoring and reporting to the Council and Audit and Risk Management Committee on the University‘s management of its risks, by assessing the internal controls in place to mitigate risks and recommendations to enhance the University‘s risk management framework. Definitions are provided as Appendix One: General Definitions. Risk management process A risk to the University is any event or action that could have a negative impact on the University. This includes events that could lead to:  Death or injury.  Financial loss to the University.  Damage to the University‘s reputation or adverse media coverage.  Damage to the physical environment, including land, water or air quality.  Failure to meet regulatory or legislative requirements. In addition the failure to identify and capitalise on opportunities is also considered a risk. It is essential that the University is aware of what risks it faces, and takes adequate precaution to avoid significant damage as a result of those risks. The University has therefore developed a risk management process to ensure that management of risks is undertaken in a systematic and standard approach across all of its operations. Page | 124

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The University‘s risk management process is consistent with the approach described in the Australian Standard on risk management (AS/NZS 4360:2005), and is comprised of the following key stages: 1. Risk identification A structured approach to identifying the events that, if they were to occur, could have a negative impact on the University. 2. Risk rating A process to analyse and understand each of the risks, including understanding what causes the risk to occur and what controls are already in place to manage the risk; risk assessment also determines:  how severe a potential impact could be, and  what is the likelihood of the University being negatively impacted in this way. Once the potential impact and likelihood have been assessed, the risk assessment process considers whether the risk is acceptable to the University, or whether further treatments are required to further reduce the level of risk. 3. Risk controls Controls represent a whole range of actions, measures and strategies taken by management to eliminate or reduce risks. They include documenting policies and procedures, ensuring separation of duties in certain functions, implementing quality assurance programs, including appropriate clauses in contracts, etc. The process in determining risk controls includes, assessing the risk, assessing risk appetite and evaluating how to treat the risk through mitigating actions. Page | 125

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide In assessing a risk, we firstly must give consideration of our risk appetite by making a risk assessment, this could include:  avoid the risk  mitigate the risk  transfer the risk, and  accept the risk. A process should then be followed to identify efficient and effective ways to mitigate against the risk, this can occur by either:  removing the risk  reducing the likelihood of the risk impacting on the University  reducing the consequences if the risk were to occur, or  a combination of these approaches. 4. Risk monitoring and reporting A process of regular review to ensure that:  new risks are identified and considered as they arise  existing risks are monitored to identify any changes which may impact on the University  new risk controls are being implemented according to the planned schedule  existing risk controls are still in place and working effectively  that information on risks is adequately communicated to appropriate parties, in particular the Vice-Chancellor and President and the Audit and Risk Management Committee. Page | 126

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Following this process allows the University to:  Anticipate and respond in advance to events that would otherwise cause damage to the University  Reduce the costs and other damage associated with failing to respond  Create a safer environment for everyone within the University  Focus management attention on developing and expanding the University rather than responding to incidents that could have been avoided  Negotiate reduced premiums with insurers The steps in this process are now described in more detail. Step 1: Risk identification Risk identification requires reasonably foreseeable risks that have the potential to have a meaningful impact on the university to be identified. A risk to the University is any event or action that could have a negative impact on the University. This includes events that could:  Lead to death or injury  Lead to financial loss to the University  Damage the University‘s reputation or lead to adverse media regarding the University  Lead to damage to the physical environment, including land, water or air quality Business risks arise as much from the possibility that opportunities will not be realised as they do from the possibility that threats will materialise, errors be made, or damage/injury occur. Within the University, risk identification occurs in two ways: Structured risk identification: Time is specifically allocated, and appropriate staff are convened, to identifying risks; this is usually carried out within the operation of the Senior Staff Advisory Committee. Page | 127

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Ad-hoc risk identification: Risks are identified during the normal course of work; these risks are managed at the time and reported by staff to the Senior Staff Advisory Committee. Structured risk identification: At least once per year, the Vice-Chancellor will convene a risk identification workshop. The workshop shall be comprised of:  The Vice-Chancellor and President  Deputy Vice-Chancellors  Chief Operating Officer  Pro Vice-Chancellors  Cost Centre Managers and other senior managers responsible for key operational areas  Other key staff who have knowledge that would provide useful input to the workshop The workshop will follow a structured process to identify risks within the University. Newly identified risks will be recorded in the University‘s risk register. Ad-hoc risk identification: Clearly, many risks will be identified by staff during the course of their work within the University. When risks are identified in this way staff must:  Determine whether immediate action is necessary to reduce the risk, and if so carry it out; for example there may be a safety risk where immediate action is necessary to prevent injury.  Complete the risk identification report form, shown in Appendix Three.  The completed form should be authorised by the relevant Cost Centre Manager.  Forward the completed risk identification report form to the Risk Manager. Page | 128

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide On receipt of a complete risk identification report form, the Risk Manager must:  Assess the risk in consultation with appropriate staff to determine whether any further immediate action is required.  Initiate any further immediate action that is required; this may involve escalating the issue to department heads or the Vice-Chancellor and President if the nature of the action requires changes to operations, work procedures, or requires expenditure.  Rank the risk using the risk assessment tables (consequence and likelihood) included in the description of Step 2 (Risk Assessment).  Include the identification of a new risk in the meeting notes for the next meeting of the Senior Staff Advisory Committee; the role of the Senior Staff Advisory Committee is further described in the description of Step 5 (Risk Monitoring and Reporting). All identified risks must be entered in the University‘s Risk Register by the Risk Manager. As a minimum the following information must be included:  The name of the risk: this is a short, meaningful title so that the risk can readily be referred to in the future.  A full description of the risk, including information on how the risk impacts on the University.  The causes of the risk.  Details of the controls that are currently in place to manage the risk, including temporary controls that are being used to manage the risk until further action is taken.  Details of any other controls that are planned for the risk, including a due date for implementation and a person responsible for putting the control in place.  The risk rating determined from the assessment of the potential consequences and likelihood for the risk. Page | 129

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Step 2: Risk rating All identified risks shall be assessed to determine the overall ranking for the risk. Risks are ranked in the following four categories:  High  Significant  Moderate  Low The ranking of a risk determines:  The nature of further action that is required, and the urgency with which further action should be undertaken.  The reporting requirements for the risk, including who the risk is reported to.  How the risk is monitored. All risks within the University are ranked using a common scale that assesses:  The potential consequences if the risk were to occur, and  the likelihood of the University being impacted in that way. Complete forms, records and other documentation A WHS management system commonly has different structural components. And allowing academic debate, and the overlap of some components, these components may be grouped into Documentation, Risk Management, and Management Processes. Documentation is all about being particular of policies safety and risk management, documented control and review of all tasks done, registers and records and the formulation of safe work method statements and procedures. Page | 130

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide What is the purpose of WHS documentation?  Research the internet. Copy and paste results. Rewrite in your own words. 6 benefits of efficient documentation procedures: Your documentation procedures, if carried out correctly, should achieve the following:  Provide evidence of your proactive health and safety management;  Ensure that management is aware of organisational performance;  Assist with continuous improvement;  Demonstrate a commitment to continuous improvement in health and safety performance;  Enable a more effective performance;  Ensure review of individual managers‘ health and safety performance. Additionally, records enable effective reporting to managers and directors who are not directly involved in workplace health and safety matters. WHS documentation is important in a workplace because as activities are recorded or documented, the person provides evidence of the performance of the management to provide a healthy and safe environment for workers, management is made aware of the performance of the organization and continuous improvement of the business may be assured through workers‘ cooperation. Also, documentation shows commitment to continuous improvement to health and safety, to ensure a more effective performance and to review health and safety performance of a manager. Page | 131

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide What are the different types of WHS documentation? There are different types of WHS documentation, here are the most common:  Training programs – every kind of training program is well-documented form the planning stage to the implementation. Evaluation of the results of training is also documented and supported b tests and measurement tools.  Meetings to discuss WHS issues – documentation should be made for every meeting especially meetings pertaining to WHS issues.  Investigation of all hazards, incidents and injuries – a complete documentation of accidents or injuries are done to ensure that investigation is carried out efficiently while hazards to health and safety of workers should also be documented.  Internal and external review of work health and safety management should also be well-documented What are the components or elements of WHS documentation? WHS documentation:  Policies – these are made of WHS policies that the user should observe as he documents any activity or emergency incident.  Documented accountabilities, roles and responsibilities – this contain all the responsibilities as well as the roles of regulators in a workplace.  Document control and review – this contain documents that will provide control during an emergency situation or incident and a review if these procedures are followed  Registers and records – these are documents that contain all important incidents that need to be registered and reviewed.  Safe work method statements and procedures – these are documents about work safety, how work safety should be done and evaluation of these procedures. Page | 132

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide What terms are used when preparing WHS documentation?  WHS Document – this includes, but not limited to, Safe Work Method Statements, Safe Work Procedure, Standard Operating Procedures; WHS Risk Assessment and risk control worksheets, Council and Group / Section procedures, standards, forms, correspondence, tools and instruments, WHS Manual and System Model documents.  High Risk Construction Work – involves a risk of a person falling more than 2 metres, this could be work in a telecommunication tower, a demolition work of a structure, the disturbance of asbestos, or involves structural alterations or repairs that require temporary support to prevent collapse, or carried out in or near a confined space, or carried out in or near: a shaft or trench with an excavated depth greater than 1.5 metres, or a tunnel, or involves the use of explosives, or carried out on or near pressurized gas distribution mains or piping, or carried out on or near chemical, fuel or refrigerant lines, or carried out on or near energised electrical installations or services, or carried out in an area that may have a contaminated or flammable atmosphere, or involves tilt- up or precast concrete, or carried out on, in or adjacent to a road, railway, shipping lane or other traffic corridor that is in use be traffic other than pedestrians, or carried out in an area at a workplace in which there is any movement of powered mobile plant, or carried out in an area in which there are artificial extremes of temperature, or carried out in or near water or other liquid that involves a risk of drowning, or involves diving work. Sew and apply trims by hand and machine From choosing the right trim for your project to getting the perfect look the first time, these tips will help ensure your sewing success. Page | 133

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Choose Trim Carefully There are thousands of sewing trim options in every fabric store, and it's easy to get overwhelmed. When choosing a trim for a sewing project, keep the mood, scale, and color of your design in mind. Pick a trim that complements your design. For instance, if you're making a retro-style apron, you may want playful ric-rac and cute eyelet lace. For a pair of formal drapes, heavy braid and gold fringe may be more appropriate. Draw Your Design Unless your pattern calls for a specific trim and layout, you'll be using your own design skills to give your project a finished look. To do this, sketch out your project in advance, and include the trim in your sketch. For instance, you may want to make a sequined spiral on a throw pillow cover. First draw the pillow design on paper. Then, if your motif is complex, use a fabric pencil to draw it on the fabric for your pillow. This helps make sure your trim ends up exactly where you want it. Baste Trim Before Sewing It In most cases, it helps to hand sew your trim to the project before you permanently affix it with your sewing machine. This type of temporary hand sewing, called basting, is a great way to keep the trim in place as you work with the project. It gives you greater control over the placement. To do it, pin the trim in place, and then use large hand stitches to hold it there. Remove the pins, and then use your sewing machine to sew over the trim again. Page | 134

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Use the Right Sewing Machine Foot For many trims, especially those with a flat edge on one side, you'll want to use your sewing machine's zipper foot. This is usually the best choice for fringe, piping, ruffled or pleated lace, pom-poms, and some other styles. For flat trim, like decorative ribbon or flat lace, you can use a standard sewing machine foot to maintain extra control over your project. Pick the Best Stitch Different types of trim require different sewing machine or hand sewing stitches. For some very delicate trims like elaborate beadwork or rows of sequins, you may have better results sewing the trim by hand. To keep your stitches hidden, try to slide the thread under the sequins or beads and catch the fabric on either side of the trim piece. For many other types of trim, machine sewing offers more durable and professional results. Experiment with an extra piece of trim to find the stitch width that works best for these items. For some trims, like decorative cord or braid, you may want to use a zig-zag stitch to hold the trim to the fabric. Carry out Operations at a rate which maintains workflow and meets production targets Today, we'll focus on meeting deadlines, as that's the area that many freelancers have problems with. Sure, you can do great work, but if you don't turn your projects in on time, you won't get many repeat customers. 1. Care about deadlines. This is the first step, as many people are very lax about deadlines. You have to be very serious about meeting them, and make them a priority. And make breaking a deadline a cardinal sin in your freelance book. Once you've done this step, the rest is just logistics. Page | 135

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 2. Keep a list of projects & deadlines. If you care about deadlines, you'll write them down, and have one place that you check often to make sure you know what's due and when. I use a simple online list, but you could use paper. Which tool you use doesn't matter, as long as you use it. 3. Communicate a clear deadline. Be sure that you and the client are in agreement with a specific deadline, including time of day (and factor in time zone differences as well). If the deadline is fuzzy, you will have trouble meeting it. If the client doesn't give you a deadline, you need to ask for one. 4. Work in a cushion. It's wise to build in a cushion for your deadline. To get a clear idea of how long a project will take, break it down into smaller pieces (see below for more). If you aren't sure exactly how long each of those pieces takes, break them down into even smaller pieces. And for each piece, add a small cushion to your time estimate. Then add up the time estimates of all the pieces, and you'll have a cushion built in. This will allow for delays, and if you finish early, the client will be pleased. 5. Have a clear outcome. You and the client should both agree on a clearly defined outcome. Don't skip this step, or you could be sorry later. If you turn in a project that's not what the client wanted, you'll have to do extra work, meaning that you'll miss the deadline. If you're not absolutely clear what the outcome should look like, ask some questions of the client until you are clear. Page | 136

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 6. Break down the project. This is standard advice for any project, of course, but that's because it works. Don't try to tackle an entire project. Tackle one step at a time. Again, you'll want to break it down into smaller steps, give a time estimate for each step. Each step should be small enough that it takes an hour or less, so it's not too intimidating. 7. Focus on the first step. Now that you've broken the project down into smaller steps, just focus on the first one. Don't worry about the rest for now. Give the first step your full attention, and get going. You'll feel satisfied when you complete it, and can check it off your list. Then focus on the next step. 8. Block off adequate time. When you're going to work on a step, be sure to have it blocked off on your day's schedule. If you're not blocking off time for your most important tasks, you're probably not getting the important stuff done. However else you work during the rest of the day, for your freelance projects, block off a good amount of time for each step, and treat it like a doctor's appointment -- you can't miss it. 9. Have a start and complete date for each step. When breaking down a project, give a start and complete date for each step, so you can get a good feel for the timeline of the project, and whether you're on schedule or behind. It also keeps you on track if you know when each step should be started and completed. 10. Communicate with each step. Once you've completed a step, send the completed step to your client if possible. Sure, it won't look like a completed project, but you can show that you're making progress, you keep yourself on track, and you can get feedback communicated from the client. Better to know early on that you're headed in the wrong direction than at the end of the project. Page | 137

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 11. Don't overcommit. One of the biggest causes of missed deadline is that a freelancer commits to more than he can handle. Learn to say no if you cannot commit to finishing a project on time. 12. Learn from mistakes. If you bust a deadline, take a few minutes to analyze what went wrong and how you can avoid that in the future. 13. Stay up late. If you planned badly, or just procrastinated, and you're up against a tight deadline, do whatever it takes to meet it. That means staying up late and working long hours if possible. 14. Negotiate and meet a second deadline. If you absolutely cannot make deadline (you probably overcommitted), you should contact your client and negotiate a second deadline. It's much better to do this than to let the deadline go by without any communication. Whatever you do, be sure to meet this second deadline. Page | 138

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Chapter-8 Carry out inspections and alterations to adjust corrections for fittings Check that the materials to be used are free from faults Normally there are two types of Fabric inspection in garment industry, they are 1. 10 points System – Used for Fabric Inspection (Un-finished) 2. 4 points System – Mainly Used for Finished Garments Fabric Inspection (Unfinished) 10 Points System For production of high quality garments, need high quality piece goods. It is an universal truth. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. So then minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric. There are several methods of fabric inspection in garments industry. Ten Points system is one of them. The 10 point method is a point per fault system, which gives a measurable guide to quality grading per roll. In 1955s ―Ten Points‖ piece goods evaluation was adapted by the Textile Distributors and National Federation of Textiles. The system assigns penalty points to each defect as per following guideline. Warp Defects Size of defects →→→→→→→→→→→→→→Penalty  Up to 1 inch →→→→→→→→→→→→→1 Point  1 to 5 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→→3 Points  5 to 10 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→5 Points  10 to 36 inches →→→→→→→→→→→10 Points Page | 139

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Filling/Weft Defects Size of defects →→→→→→→→→→→→→Penalty  Up to 1 inch →→→→→→→→→→→→ 1 Point  1 to 5 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→3 Points  5 inches to half the width →→→→→→5 Points  Half to Full width →→→→→→→→→→10 Points  A maximum 10 Points is charged for one linear yard of fabric. Working Procedures  Under the 10 Points system, a piece is graded as ―First‖, if the total penalty points do not exceed the total yardage of the piece.  In case of a fabric wider than 50 inches; ―First‖ quality is considered if the total defect points do not exceed the total yardage of the fabric.  A piece is graded as ―Second‖ if the total penalty points exceed the total yardage of the piece. Finished Garments - Quality Inspection: Inspection in reference to the apparel industry can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials (like fabric, sewing threads, buttons, trims, etc). It is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Page | 140

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll. Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials. Normally, we inspect 10% of the rolls we receive and evaluate them based on a four-point system. This way, we can avoid fabric related quality problems before it is put into production. Four point system is widely used for finished garments. Four Point System: The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point- grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC (American Society of Quality Control). The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect. Defect can be in either length or width direction, the system remains the same. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total rolls in the shipment and make sure to select at least one roll of each colour way. Fabric defects are assigned points based on the following: Size of defect Penalty 3 inches or less 1 points Over 3 but not over 6 2 points Over 6 but nor over 9 3 points Over 9 inches 4 points Page | 141

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acceptance criteria is generally not more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more than 40 points are considered \"seconds\". The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is given by: = (Total points scored in the roll * 3600) / Fabric width in inches * Total yards inspected The following are noteworthy points for this system:  No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect.  The fabric is graded regardless of the end-product.  This system makes no provision for the probability of minor defects.  4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry as it is easy to teach and learn. Ensure the materials used meet the specification matching a. Within a product b. Between a pair of products where applicable The first item the manufacturer will need from you will be to provide them with are spec sheets. Spec sheets are the full design details including measurements, fabrics, printing techniques, and supporting images for the garments you want produced. It is best to provide the most amount of detail and information possible. Page | 142

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide In addition to spec sheets, some manufacturers may want job card. Job cards are the all encompassing designs including full detailed measurements, lining details, button and zipper customisation if required, woven labels, swing tags, packaging, etc. A great site to create this is Job carder. Here you will be able to create your own job cards as well as share it directly with the manufacturer and suppliers. It is free to register and has already received support from Sylvia Lam from Billabong and William Mera from Victoria Secret Pink. Its a great tool to get you started - check it out! Based on your spec sheets, manufacturers should be able to provide you with production cost quotes. However, it is sometimes difficult to gauge the true fabric usage and time to produce 1 piece. For example: when making board shorts; you might be making very similar pairs in the same fabrics but depending on the fabrics usages, complexity of design, amount of pattern pieces and cuts needed, this will impact your cost. Some manufacturers may produce the sample first and then bill you for payment. The drawback to this is the possibility of being surprised with a cost you were not expecting but already obligated to pay. SOURCING ALL MATERIALS, FABRICS, AND ACCESSORIES Sourcing materials and fabrics can be a daunting process. There are so many different types of fabrics to choose from; where do you begin. The best start is to have an idea of some material and fabrics you might want to work with before you go into the suppliers. Once you are there, they would be able to give you some guidance as to what might be the best fabrics based on the designs and direction you are going for. If you go in without direction, you will be lost in a sea of linen and lace and viscose and rayon and cotton and modal and nylon and it keeps going! Page | 143

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Some widely used fabric will come in a variety of pre-dyed colours. If the fabric does not come in the colour you want; which quite often happens, it will need to be dyed to the colour you choose based on the pantone codes you provide. This has an MOQ of approximately 50 to 100m depending on If you are looking for printed fabrics, sometime the design you like will be available but not in the material you want. In this case, the supplier should be able to help you in providing printing services in house or know of a company that can screen or digitally print fabric out house. Page | 144

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide PATTERNS, SAMPLING AND SIZE GRADING After you have confirmed your production cost quotes and sourced everything necessary for your garments to be produced, you are now ready to have your patterns and samples made. The cost of this process is normally the production cost x 2 or 3 - this will vary between manufacturer. Some may charge you separately for the patterns and the samples so make sure to speak to them to ensure you are getting what you expect. What the patterns entail is taking all of the information provided in the spec sheets (or physical samples provided) and making paper based outlines or designs which will be use as a template, laid onto the fabric, traced and cut out. Here you can see patterns, on the fabric and being cut. PATTERNS, SAMPLING AND SIZE GRADING After you have confirmed your production cost quotes and sourced everything necessary for your garments to be produced, you are now ready to have your patterns and samples made. The cost of this process is normally the production cost x 2 or 3 - this will vary between manufacturer. Some may charge you separately for the patterns and the samples so make sure to speak to them to ensure you are getting what you expect. Page | 145

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide What the patterns entail is taking all of the information provided in the spec sheets (or physical samples provided) and making paper based outlines or designs which will be use as a template, laid onto the fabric, traced and cut out. Here you can see patterns, on the fabric and being cut. REVIEW OF SAMPLES Once the samples are completed, they should be shipped out to you so that you can review them. What you will be looking for is the feel and fit of the fabric - does it sit right and feel nice on the skin - does it flow and fit properly. If not, you might need to change the fabric choice and proceed to make samples again - keep in mind, you will be charged for this. PREPARATION FOR MASS MANUFACTURING At this stage, you now have perfect samples or \"master sample\" which will be used as a basis for all other garments to be made off of. You are now ready to proceed into the preparation for mass manufacturing. This process includes a variety of items; some of which may apply to you and others may not - it differs depending on your production. As well the timeframes below may be slightly different depending on where you are manufacturing - this is based on Bali and Indonesia. Some of the preparation items include: Page | 146

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  Ordering all the fabrics and materials - This will take approximately 3-4 days from placing the order with the suppliers to delivery. If the fabrics or materials are not available at that time, it could take up to 2 months to receive it if it needs to be ordered from the textile producers.  Hot Wash or Preshrinking - This is the process of washing all the fabric in hot water to preshrink it before the garment are cut and sewn. It is strongly suggested to do this as it will ensure the proper fit of the garment even after your customer has washed it themselves after wearing. Depending on the fabric, the shrinkage can be anywhere from 5-15% - usually 8-12% is the norm. It will take approximately 1-2 weeks, depending on the amount of fabric being processed.  Dip Dying - This is the process in which RFD fabric (Ready For Dying) is dipped into dye that has been mixed to match your pantone code. This will take approximately 1-2 week to process a solid colour.  Screen Printing - This is the process by which a mesh-based stencil is placed onto fabric and a squeegee is used to move ink overtop of it. There are certain parts of the stencil that are blocked out and do not allow the ink to pass through. The area where the ink does pass through deposit the colour onto the fabric. This process takes about 2 weeks to make the screens and another 3-4 weeks to print and process the fabrics.  Digital Printing - This printing technique is produced by computers from files. It will take 2-3 weeks to do a strike off or a test print and another 2-3 weeks to print and process the fabrics. The manufacturer should be able to accept files in AI, PDF, JPEG or PNG set to scale in repeat or yardage printing. Batik Printing - This is a hand painting technique in which wax in added to a canting pen which is then draw onto the fabric. The fabric is then hand painted in a variety of colours and the wax is washed off leaving the design. This is a very labour intensive method but the results are amazing! To produce 1m of batik fabric; some designs can take up to 3 hours to draw, another 5-6 hour for canting and 1 day to paint. Page | 147

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  Accessories or Hardware - Accessories can be items such as buttons, zippers, snaps, eyelets, press stud, etc. Hardware are items such as buckles or plate (similar to the Michael Kors image above). Both of these items can take up to 4 weeks if special order or customisation is required.  Woven Brand Labels - This is your brand tag that is swen into the garments on the inside at the neck. Files are usually required in AI, PDF, JPEG or PNG in high resolution and set to scale. This will take approximately 2 weeks. The MOQ is 3000 pieces. These can be made while the production has started.  Swing Tags - This is the tag that will be attached to the garment on the outside. Files are usually required in AI, PDF, JPEG or PNG in high resolution and set to scale. This will take approximately 2 weeks. The MOQ is 1000 pieces. These can be made while the production has started. Page | 148

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Carry out test sews Check needles, awls and threads regularly In apparel manufacturing industry, testing and approvals at different stages are an important process to produce the suitable product for the end customer and to avoid accumulated monetary loss due to problem finding at the final stages. Testing is basically done in laboratory of the factory and which are not facilitated in factory lab, may be tested to the independent out side lab. Some time third party lab is recommended by the buyer. In case of own retail company, different department should be developed for approval and close monitoring of test result of product. Strength and stretch test:  Following kind of test is normally done in this category;  Tear resistance; Average force required to tear the fabric from a fixed distance.  Seam slippage; Measurement of force required to slip the seam from fabrics, which are joined together. In this method two fabrics which are joined together through the stitches are pull in opposite direction to know the seam stability.  Strength test; Determination of breaking force of woven textile fabrics in dry and wet both condition while clamping and pulling the fabrics in opposite direction. Force applied to tear the fabric is measured in this test. This is also called bursting strength test.  Stretch and growth test; this test is recommended for the knitted fabrics.In specific condition and specific load, in length and width wise how much elongation happens in knitted fabrics. When you're learning a new skill, a mistake or two is inevitable; it's all part of the learning curve. But even a skilled seamstress can fall victim to the dreaded skipped stitch or broken needle, or what's possibly the most annoying of all sewing machine headaches: thread bunching. When you hear that agitated whirring from your machine -- cue the internal \"ugh\" of despair -- consider that to be your distress signal. Page | 149

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The details may vary a little depending on the make and model of your sewing machine -- so we suggest that you get familiar with the mechanics of your machine -- but the fundamentals are the same. Whether you're a seamless pro or a novice with needles, we have the no-sweat solutions for your most annoying issues. The Problem: The thread is bunching under the fabric. The Solution: You can have a perfectly straight stitch on the top, but a \"bird's nest\" forming on the bottom. So why the inconsistency? People tend to think that the bobbin is to blame; in fact, this couldn't be farther from the truth. The thread is snarling -- usually, under the fabric -- because there is no tension on the upper thread. Seems counterintuitive, right? Still, here's what to do: First, raise the presser foot lifter and rethread the machine. This opens up the tension mechanism to receive the thread. Second, you will need to raise the take-up lever and needle to the highest position according to your machine's manual. This should help to confirm you have the right tension. Page | 150