Sewing Machine Operator

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The Problem: Stitches are coming out uneven or skipping entirely. The Solution: Odds are, the secret culprit here is a needle that is broken, bent, or otherwise damaged. Experts recommend that you replace your needles for every 16 hours of stitching time. Another possibility is how you handle the fabric whilst sewing. If you have the tendency -- and many of us do -- of pulling the fabric from behind to make it go through the machine, the practice can result in unclean stitching and can even break your machine. This kind of force-feeding of the fabric works against the feed dogs (the metal teethlike ridges that grip the bottom of the fabric, coaxing it to move away from the needle as stitches are sewn). Work with the machine -- don't force it. The Problem: The needle keeps breaking. The Solution: This boils down to a single follow-up question, \"Are you using the right needle?\" Going up or down to the appropriately-numbered size can make a huge difference. Needles are sized from 8 to 18, depending on their use. A size 9 or 11 works best for delicate, lightweight fabrics like chiffon, silk, and organza. A size 14 works best for medium-weight fabrics like flannel, linen, and synthetic suedes. And a size 16 (or preferably) 18 is reserved for heavy-weight fabrics like denim. Therefore, using a size 9 needle on denim will inevitably break the needle. Additionally, are you using the right type -- that is, ball point, regular point or wedge point? सभस्मा: र्ांकी े फाहय आ यहे हंै असभान मा ऩयू ी तयह से रघीं न Page | 151

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Still having issues? This three-step checklist can easily solve most machine mishaps. 1. Clean it out: When was the last time you did a thorough top-to-bottom wipe-down of your machine? Dust and lint can quietly and quickly accumulate in the bobbin area and tension assembly, so have your machine professionally serviced regularly. If you use it daily, a weekly cleaning is needed. For weekly use only, clean it once a month. And for occasional monthly use, clean it every three months. 2. Rethread your machine: Yes, even the slightest bump can affect your stitching. Check your bobbin, needle, and thread to make sure eveything is in the right place. 3. Check your needle and thread: As we already mentioned, using the right size and type of needle is imperative. Additionally, you should use high- quality thread -- it will have a nice, smooth filament and not be \"fuzzy\" or uneven in thickness. Thread does have a shelf-life -- although different types age differently -- so keep your collection of spools in rotation and stored properly (out of humidity and direct sunlight). Check if fabric / Component is correctly marked and pieces cut as required and Fabric pieces and linings are pinned or sewn together as required, and appropriately hung in readiness for assembly. Preparing your paper pattern properly is a must when learning how to make a dress. If you want a professional looking finished garment, make sure you follow our expert‘s tips when cutting out the paper pattern and your dress fabric too! Page | 152

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Prepare a paper pattern 1. Remove the paper pattern from your pattern envelope and lay it out flat on your table. 2. Once you‘ve chosen which size dress you want to make, use a red pencil to mark your chosen size cutting guides. This will make it easier to follow the dashed lines. 3. Use a pair of paper scissors to cut out all the paper pieces required for your garment. Page | 153

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 4. Dry iron the paper pattern on a low heat setting to get all the creases out. How to cut out fabric to make a dress 1. Prepare your fabric by following the manufacturer‘s instructions for washing. Allow the fabric to dry and iron any creases before cutting. 2. Follow the layout guide found on the paper pattern instructions, these will show you how to position the paper pattern on the fabric depending on your fabric‘s width. 3. Fold your fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge which is the neat edge of the fabric. Where the instructions say to place the paper pattern on the fold of the fabric, place the paper section right up against the fold and pin in place. Page | 154

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 4. When laying out the next pattern piece there‘s a line called the grain line, which has to run parallel with the grain of the fabric. To make sure the paper pattern is in the right position, use a tape measure to measure that the line is the same distance from the fold of the fabric all the way along. 5. To transfer the pattern notches to your fabric, mark the notches by cutting an extra section out of the fabric to avoid snipping into your seam allowance. For double notches, cut a wider one rather than two so it‘s easily recognisable. 6. If you have markings to transfer, push a pin through the centre of the marking and mark with dressmaker‘s chalk, or a simple tailor‘s tack with contrasting thread and needle works well too. 7. Cut out the lining in exactly the same way. Report faults in the materials The defect is the common term in the garment industry. Garment defects are also well known as reject the item. Different types of defects are found in the garment industry. In garments industry these defects are dependent upon the classification of defects and an inspector‘s ability to make decisions. Creating a list of every defect that might be encountered during a quality inspection is not realistic. Page | 155

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Having said that, the tables which follow do provide details of the majority of defects. According to the garments workmanship and appearance garments defects are divided in the three ways- 1. Critical defects 2. Major defects 3. Minor defects 1. Critical Defects A critical defect is one that is likely to result in hazardous or unsafe conditions when using the product. A critical defect is also a deviation from delivery requirements which prevents the product from being received. If one (1) occurrence of critical defect is observed during the inspection, the entire lot will be rejected. A 100% inspection will be carried-out by the garments factory QA Staff to remove the defective product/s. 2. Major Defects A major defect is one that is likely to result in a customer complaint or return. A major defect is also one that will most likely result in product failure after a period of time that is considered unacceptable to the customer or end user. A major defect will usually (but not always) be obvious to the inspector during the visual garments inspection. It will also be obvious to the customer during use. Page | 156

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Garments Defects 3. Minor Defects A minor defect is one that is unlikely to result in customer complaint or return. A minor defect is a deviation from the required standard, but one that is unlikely to affect the usability of the product. A minor defect will usually be seen by the inspector, but may be overlooked by the customer. Garments Defect Table Defining whether the defect is Critical, Major or Minor might require some degree of personal judgment. Some defects might be obvious – others less so. It is essential that the quality controlinspectors are familiar with all of the defect types contained in these defect tables. It is also important that these inspectors have sufficient experience and knowledge to ensure the right decision is made. The tables are designed to be used for reference only – they are not a fully comprehensive list of faults and must not be considered inclusive or exhaustive. SL Garments Workmanship and Critical Major Minor Appearance Brand name differs X –– 1. from PO/sample 2. Broken / Skip stitch – X– 3. Open seam or hem – X– 4. Wavy seams/stitch – –X Page | 157

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 4. Wavy seams/stitch – –X Unintentional pleats form along – –X X– 6. –X the seam –X 7. Missing / wrong accessories – –– 8. Thread discoloration – X– X– Incorrect interlining weight in – X– 9. X– relation to the fabric Sharp ends, Bent Buttons / snaps 10. post X 11. Button too big for the buttonhole – 12. Buttonhole too big for the button – 13. Zipper puller self-lock not secure – Zipper slider does not glide 14. through the zipper teeth smoothly – Page | 158

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Zipper stitching margin too small X– X– 15. X– that may cause slider to jam – X– X– 16. Snapping action too tight to close – X– Snapping action too loose to close –– X– 17. –X adequately – 18. Belt loop Missing/Incomplete – 19. Color shade variation within a box – 20. Missing collar bone – Broken hanger resulting to sharp 21. end/edge X 22. Poorly attached hanger hook – Poly bag / inner box damage / – 23. wrinkled Page | 159

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Brand name differs from X –– 24. X– PO/sample Poly bag / inner box too loose or – 25. too tight Conform to company quality standards Quality means customer needs is to be satisfied. Failure to maintain an adequate quality standard can therefore be unsuccessful. But maintaining an adequate standard of quality also costs effort. From the first investigation to find out what the potential customer for a new product really wants, through the processes of design, specification, controlled manufacture and sale. There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as - performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost. In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products. However quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets. Page | 160

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The Quality System Requirements are based on the principle of PDCA Cycle. Process Cycle (प्रफिमा चि) 1. Understanding the customers' quality requirements. 2. Organizing & training quality control department. 3. Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the QC department. 4. Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the Production Department. 5. Establishing quality plans, parameters, inspection systems, frequency, sampling techniques, etc.. 6. Inspection, testing, measurements as per plan. 7. Record deviations 8. Feed back to Production Department. 9. Plan for further improvement. Establishing the Quality Requirements: The first step for quality control is to understand, establish & accept the customers' quality requirements. This involves the following steps. 1. Getting customers specifications regarding the quality 2. Referring our past performance 3. Discussing with the Quality Control Department 4. Discussing with the Production Department 5. Giving the Feed Back to the customers 6. Receiving the revised quality requirements from the customers 7. Accepting the quality parameters Various Steps of Inspection & Quality Control: The following levels are discussed at the Garment Making Department assuming that this department is receiving the ready to cut dyed & finished fabrics from the Dyeing & Finishing Department. Page | 161

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Before or Pre-production Inspection The following parameters & defects are checked prior to cutting. 1. Shade Matching 2. Fabric Construction 3. GSM (grams per square metre) 4. Whales & courses if required) 5. Diameter 6. Dyeing Levelness 7. Ecological parameters if required 8. Softness 9. Shrinkage 10. Matching of Rib, Collars & Cuffs 11. Fabric Holes 12. Vertical & Horizontal Stripes 13. Knitting defects such as missing loops, sinker lines, etc. 14. Bowing 15. Skewing 16. Yarn defects such as thick & thin places During Production Inspection 1. Verify cutting patterns 2. Cut components measurements 3. Cutting shapes 4. Fabric defects 5. Other specific parameters as required by the customers Rib, Collars & Cuffs matching 6. Stitching defects 7. Sewing threads matching 8. Dirts & Stains 9. Measurements Page | 162

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 1. Labels 2. Trims & Accessories Before Production Inspection Many of the important parameters of Pre-productions, During productions & Final inspection parameters. This is to ensure that wrong or major defective garments are not packed. Final Inspection A. PACKING & ASSORTMENT 1. Wrong Model 2. Wrong Quantity 3. Missing labels & tags 4. Wrong Size & Colour assortment 5. Wrong Folding B. FABRIC DEFECTS 1. Wrong Shade 2. Uneven dyeing 3. Holes 4. Knitting stripes 5. Thick & Thin places 6. Dirt & Stains 7. Oil stains 8. Sinker line 9. Poor softness 10. Higher Shrinkage 11. Crease Marks Page | 163

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide C. WORKMANSHIP DEFECTS 1. Open seam 2. Puckering 3. Needle holes & marks 4. Unbalanced sleeve edge 5. Unbalanced placket 6. Insecure shoulder stitch 7. Incorrect side shape 8. Bottom hem bowing 9. Uneven neck shape 10. Cross labels 11. Broken & Missing stitch 12. Insecured buttons 13. Untrimmed threads & fabrics 14. Poor Ironing 15. Double stitch D. GENERAL DEFECTS 1. Shade variation within the garment parts 2. Shade variation between the garments 3. Defective printing 4. Defective embroidery 5. Defective buttons E. MEASUREMENT DEVIATIONS Compare the garment measurements against the Customers' Measurement Charts. Following are the some of the important garments' measurement aspects to be considered. 1. Garment length 2. Body width 3. Shoulder length 4. Arm hole 5. Arm Opening 6. Sleeve length 7. Placket length 8. Placket width 9. Neck width 10. Neck opening 11. Hemming width 12. IRib or Collar width AQL ( Acceptable Quality Level ) Page | 164

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide A certain proportion of defective will always occur in any manufacturing process. If the percentage does not exceed a certain limit, it will be economical to allow the defective to go through instead of screening the entire lot. This limit is called the \"Acceptable Quality Level\" ( AQL ) Considering the practical & economic aspects, Sampling Techniques are adopted to Accept or Reject a Lot on the basis of the Samples drawn at Random from the lot. It has been found and accepted that a scientifically designed sampling & inspection plan protects a Manufacturer as well as the Buyer economically. Ecological Parameters: Now all the Customers are asking for Ecological Parameters. Now European Buyers are stressing this. Following are main Ecological Parameters to be considered. 1. pH range 2. Formaldehyde levels 3. Extractable heavy metals 4. Chlorinated phenols ( PCP, TeCP) 5. Forbidden Amines of MAK III A1& A2 categories 6. Pesticides 7. Chlorinated Organic carriers 8. Biocide finishes 9. Flame retardant finishes 10. Colour fastness to Water 11. Colour fastness to acid & alkali perspiration 12. Colour fastness to wet & dry rubbing 13. Colour fastness to saliva 14. Emission of volatile chemicals 15. Other specific parameters as required by the customers Report any damaged work to the responsible person The Occupational Health and Safety requires that the existence of any hazard in the workplace be reported to the employer or supervisor. Only if a hazard is identified can actions be taken to address the hazard, and hence reduce the potential for the hazard to result in a negative impact on our university community. The goal of the Hazard Reporting Program is the prevention of injuries from an unaddressed or unreported hazard by providing clear communication directly. Page | 165

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide All hazards should be reported immediately to your supervisor, or a person in authority. When the hazards are not in your immediate work area, who do you report them to? To streamline, we have developed the ―Good Catch Report‖ that provides an online environment to identify a hazard and send this directly to EHS for action! The Incident Reporting and Investigation Program plays a critical role in preventing injuries, by providing a mechanism to identify trends long before they result in injury. It is also to ensure compliance with the requirements of the Occupational Health and Safety Act, the Workplace Safety and Insurance Act and the reporting requirements of the Workplace Safety and Insurance Board. Injuries Work-related injuries and/or illnesses are those caused by physical, chemical, or biological hazards in the workplace. They can also include acute psychological trauma resulting from the work. All workplace injuries and/or illnesses must be reported immediately to the workplace supervisor. This includes reporting all injuries and/or illnesses affecting students, visitors, and contractors at Carleton University. All worker related injuries and/or illnesses resulting in health care, absences from work or modified duties for more than seven (7) days must be reported to the Workplace Safety and Insurance Board through Human Resources. Incidents resulting in death or a critical injury as defined by the Ministry of Labour must be reported immediately to Environmental Health and Safety for susequent reporting to the Ministry of Labour and the Joint Health and Safety Committee. Incidents Incidents are those events where there is no injury or illness, but that with a slightly different set of circumstances might have resulted in an injury or illness to a worker or to students. They are also caused by physical, chemical or biological hazards in the workplace. They may also be caused by operational practices or other events. Examples of these include fires or explosions, spills, discovery of an unexpected hazard, slips, trips and falls where there are no injury, or other circumstacne that if not remedied could result in an injury. Worker Responsibilities  Immediately report any incident involving injury, illness or the onset of a work- related disease, or other near miss, significant event to the supervisor;  Obtain first aid;  Obtain medical treatment in the event of a serious injury or illness Page | 166

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  Provide information regarding the circumstances that resulted in the injury or illness  Participate in the investigation and completion of the Supervisor‘s Incident Investigation Report Form  Complete or have completed the applicable WSIB forms as required by Human Resources. Supervisor Responsibilities  Provide first aid and keep a record of the first aid given  If only first aid is provided, completion of the WSIB Form 7 is not required  If more that first aid is required, arrange for medical treatment of injured persons and provide transport to a medical facility, doctor, or the workers home as necessary  Complete the appropriate sections of the WSIB Form 7 and forward to Human Resources within 1 day  Investigate all incidents involving injury and/or illness  Complete the Carleton University, Supervisor‘s Incident Investigation Report Form and submit it to Environmental Health and Safety within 1 day of the incident  Ensure that corrective action has been taken to prevent a recurrence  In the event of a critical injury as defined under the Occupational Health and Safety Act, Regulation 834 the Supervisor has the following and immediate responsibilities:  Call University Safety at 520-3612 or by dialing 4444 to co-ordinate emergency services response (police, fire and ambulance)  Call the Director, Environmental Health and Safety at 520-2600 extension 1108 for Ministry of Labour notification.  Attend the scene of the incident as soon as possible and secure the area  The Occupational Health and Safety Act states that if a person is fatally or critically injured at a workplace, no person shall interfere with, disturb, destroy, alter, or carry away any wreckage, article, or thing from the scene of an accident until permission has been granted by a Ministry of Labour inspector.  The only exceptions to this are for the following purposes:  Saving life or relieving human suffering, maintaining an essential public utility service or public transportation system, preventing unnecessary damage to equipment or other property.  Co-operate fully with the police and Ministry of Labour Critical Injury Defined DEFINITION OF CRITICAL INJURY Regulation 834 Page | 167

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide For the purposes of the Act and the Regulations, ―critically injured‖ means an injury of a serious nature that,  places life in jeopardy;  produces unconsciousness;  results in substantial loss of blood;  involves the fracture of a leg or arm but not a finger or toe;  involves the amputation of a leg, arm, hand or foot but not a finger or toe;  consists of burns to a major portion of the body; or  causes the loss of sight in an eye. INSPECTIONS BY SUPERVISORS Who is a supervisor? The Occupational Health and Safety Act defines a supervisor as a person who has charge of a workplace or authority over a worker. The President and Vice- Presidents, deans, academic and administrative directors, chairs, managers, faculty, researchers, all of these are supervisors. The department head is responsible for safety in the department. While inspection and reporting may be delegated, the department head retains this responsibility. Why should a supervisor do inspections? The Occupational Health and Safety Act places general responsibility on supervisors to inform workers of any hazards in the workplace and to take every precaution reasonable in the circumstances for the protection of workers. Carrying out effective and regular inspections keeps the supervisor aware of hazards and activity in the workplace. Inspections also provide the supervisor with an opportunity to identify, evaluate, report and control hazards in the workplace. Page | 168

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The goals of the inspection are to:  Identify actual and potential problems,  Identify equipment deficiencies,  Identify improper employee actions,  Review procedures in action,  Review management performance,  Involve management. Supervisors are able to identify hazards by reviewing on-the-job practices, assessing equipment, and listening to concerns. When should a supervisor do inspections? There are two categories of inspections to be done by a supervisor:  Informal inspections: An informal inspection occurs every time a supervisor walks through a workplace, notices problems and take corrective action.  Planned inspections: A planned inspection is done on a regular schedule, with the frequency depending on the needs of the particular workplace. A laboratory or workshop must be inspected more frequently than an office. An office may be inspected annually. A lab or workshop should be inspected monthly. A schedule developed by the department head will assist in planning. Follow company reporting procedures about defective tools and machines which and Affect work and report risks/ problems likely to affect services to the relevant person promptly and accurately  Only tools and equipment which are in good condition may be used.  Tools shall only be used for the purpose for which they were designed.  Employees shall make frequent inspections of tools and equipment, and immediately remove from service any items found defective. The following are examples of the types of defects which should be looked for:  Split, broken, cracked, or splintered wooden handles.  Mushroomed heads on chisels or impact drills.  Wrench jaws which slip or do not hold.  Frayed cords, damaged or modified grounding plugs, or broken insulation on electrical tools.  Rounded edges on sharp-edged tools.  Dull cutting tools.  When using hand tools, the employee shall place himself in such a position that he will avoid injury if the tool slips. Page | 169

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  Only soft faced hammers (brass, plastic, rubber, or similar materials) shall be used on highly tempered steel tools such as cold chisels, star drills, etc. Proper eye protection must be worn when performing such an operation.  Files, rasps, and other tools having sharp tangs shall be equipped with approved handles.  Tools which are not in use shall be placed where they will not present a tripping or stumbling hazard.  Pointed tools shall never be carried edge or point up in pockets.  Tools shall not be thrown from one worker to another, or to another working location.  Extensions shall not be used on wrenches to gain leverage unless the wrench is designed to be used in such a fashion.  When cutting wire or any other material under tension, the material being cut shall be secured to prevent the ends from snapping free.  All power tools must be properly grounded before their use.  Gloves shall not be worn when operating lathes, drill presses, power saws, or similar equipment. Loose clothing must not be worn and long sleeves should be rolled up prior to operation.  Hooks, brushes, vacuums, or special tools shall be used to remove dust or chips. Compressed air shall not be used.  All machinery must be turned off when unattended.  Maintenance, repairs, adjustments, and measurements must not be made while saws, lathes, grinders, and similar equipment are in operation.  Compressed air shall never be used to dust off clothing, or be directed toward another person.  Sawblades, gears, sprockets, chains, shafts, pulleys, belts, and similar apparatus shall not be operated without the proper guarding.  Safety glasses, goggles, or face shields shall be worn when operating power tools. Sort and place work to assist the next stage of production and minimise the risk of damage In terms of safety, sewing is certainly a lot safer than skydiving, bull fighting or even just driving a car. That being said, sewing does still present some genuine dangers so sewing machine safety is critical. Today's sewing machines are run by electricity and have dangerous moving parts like sharp needles; this means there are bound to be some safety concerns. Here are some helpful safety tips to follow in order to stay safe whilst enjoying the hobby we all love so much. Needles are sharp. Keep fingers away: Getting your fingers sewn isn‘t a fun experience. One way of avoiding this risk is to buy finger guards from the maker of your machine. Such guards will keep your Page | 170

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide fingers protected from the needle but frankly, most people chose not to wear them. However, since more the 60% of sewing-related injuries which required treatment in hospital resulted from machine needles, it's important to keep your fingers safely away from them. Avoid distractions: If you are feeling overly tired it's best you stay away from your sewing machine and, much like operating a car or other machinery, it's best to avoid alcohol as well. You are better off sewing when you're relaxed, clear headed and under no influence of alcohol or other medications. Switch off your machine when you're away for more than a minute: When sewing machines are left to idle, they always generate heat and this can result in them being damaged or destroyed when they remain plugged in to electricity. A good safety check for this is to install a surge protector to your machine. Turning off your machine instead of idling it also keeps the attention of children and household pets away, who may otherwise be drawn to the humming of an idling machine. Be cautious of cords: The best place for cords to be is at the back of the machine and not carelessly dropped on the floor where they can get in the way and possibly lead to an accident. However, should the need to place them on the floor arise for some or other reason, it's always best to secure them down with tapes. Better still, change your location so that it's not necessary. If there are pets at home, it's important to monitor your machine‘s cord. If there is any form of damage to the cord, change the cord entirely instead of using tape. Service your machine at least once every two years: A regular, professional service ensures that your machine is in top form and that every hidden or potential risk is exposed before it takes you by surprize. Page | 171

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Unplug the power cord before you open your sewing machine: If you wish to change your light bulb for instance, it's advisable that you unplug the cord of your machine in order to ensure your safety, as with all electrical appliances, there is always the danger of shock. Avoid sewing over pins: If you end up doing this, you make break your needle, your pins will get bent and you will most likely botch your work. Don’t make your machine sew through thick or tough materials: Doing so can lead to the damage of your machine or inflict injury on you. If you must sew through tough materials, you may need an industrial machine. Take ergonomics into consideration when setting up your sewing table: A sewing table that is too high will put stress on your back. Plus, when we concentrate we might be inclined to disregard our physical discomfort, leaving us stiff and sore at the end of it. The best sitting position is with your elbows bent at a 90 degree angle and your feet flat on the floor. Ensure that you wear shoes when sewing: As odd as this may appear, wearing shoes will protect your feet against a variety of potential dangers including possible electric shock and stepping on one of the many sharp objects associated with sewing, such as pins and scissors. You could also accidently drop scissors or other heavy objects on your feet. Exercise caution when getting rid of used sewing needles: The best way of doing this is by putting the needles in a sealable container like a soda can or prescription bottle. This will stop them from piercing the bag and posing a risk to people (and children) in the future. There has to be sufficient lighting in your work station: This helps reduce the strain on your eyes, high concentration in a dim light can lead to headaches migraine and damage to your eyes. Page | 172

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide If you have pets, like cats, keep thread spools away from them: The reason for this is that cats love playing with spools and may end up swallowing them, leading to health complications which require expensive operations and cause all kinds of suffering for you and your beloved pet. With all you've learnt so far, ensuring the safety of yourself and your loved ones around your sewing machine shouldn't be a problem at all. Leave work area safe and secure when work is complete Ensure Safety For Your Sewing To prevent injuries or general health issues of yourself, your family members, kids and pets at home or in your sewing studio, you should consider the safety of the following three:  Equipment storage  Sewing room or area  Personal (and others) safety Equipment Storage Keep safe all sharp tools and equipment. Adapt drawers, special cupboard sections, boxes or anything to keep hazardous items secure from somebody else‘s use. Sharp items, like scissors, rotary cutters, needles, pins, safety pins and so on, should be stored in a lockable areas, especially if you have kids, pets or other family members who could be at risk. Threat with great respect your fabric shears and never cut anything than fabric or textile material with them. Use other pair of scissors to cut paper or card. Dispose all sharp needles and pinsin a special jar that you can hand over for discharge at your local pharmacy or sewing supplies shop. For all broken needles and crocked pins I use an empty glass jar that has a special difficult to open cap. It prevents children from opening it, usually you have to push down very hard and then turn to open. It could be from a medicine or from a nutrient supplement. Page | 173

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Supplements or medication jars with special protective cap are good storage for broken needles and crooked pins If you keep hazardous substances, such as textile dyes, bleach, glue or similar, assure they are kept in a lockable cupboard away to protect your family, kids and pets! When finish using these products, put them back and lock. Heavy irons or presses should have designated storage area to go when not in use. The foldable ironing board is not good place for that. Sewing Room or Designated Sewing Area General Housekeeping Make sure floors are clean of any unnecessary items while working on the project. The freedom to move around in your space and do things is main condition for you to create with pleasure. Another part of the safety sewing rules for the sewing space is to be organised in such manner that no hanging things from the walls or shelves can fall over, do damages or injure someone. Page | 174

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The common sense to clean and tidy up the room after finishing will contribute to the best sewing environment, too. Pack away the tools, put all raw materials on their places, collect the scraps in their box (for the next scrappy upcycle project;). Quick general housekeeping should be the last thing you do before leaving the room or the sewing area. If you are in the middle of a project, clean up the stuff you won‘t use and keep only the necessary pieces. Thus, when you come back, you would be welcomed in a fresh, ready to go sewing space. If it is possible, avoid drinking and eating in your sewing area, especially around machines and materials. It is so much easier to prevent spills over machinery and electrical cords, or food and beverage marks from the materials, than dealing with them if happens! Besides, it is always a good idea to have short break for a snack or a coffee and stretch;) Accidents Accidents happens to all of us sometimes. So, just in case, keep close a little kit with the most necessary items for small accidents, like deeper poking, cuts or burns. Band-Aid is a must, but also burn aid cream, spray for wounds and similar kind of stuff. If you use any specific hazardous substances, research and prepare ahead the particular preventative solutions that can neutralise the injured area and keep it close while working. Electrical In an industrial working environment all electrical cords are set up away from the floor, on walls or from the ceiling. To avoid any damage of electrical cords and plugs, which could be very dangerous, put them away - under tables, around Page | 175

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide corners or whatever suits your space. Ensure that the floor where you walk and work is clean from any electrical plugs, cords, adapters or else. Personal And Others Safety The chances of getting injured while sewing or experiencing physical pain after long hours bending are quite possible. The good news is they also can be prevented. Ask professional patternmakers, dressmakers and tailors... Some develop really heavy occupational related conditions. However, even sewing at home, long hours are sometimes enough to experience back pain, headache, fatigue, restrained eyesight and similar. Furthermore, those increase the risk of injuries, so definitely worth the attention. The following safety sewing rules can help you to avoid all that. Ergonomics & Surrounding Environment Ensure your working tables are at a good level. The sewing machine chair should at least have adjustable height. If you can‘t avoid the long hours bending over your work, then swap activities or take a short break. Other important is the light in the room. If there is not enough daylight, then avoid cold or the old luminescent lighting, if possible. If your sewing machine has old light bulb, take it with you and buy a new, brighter, warm colour light from your local store or warehouse. Besides, the old bulbs are getting really hot when on for long. There are new types, different variety and sizes, that can help not only your vision, but reducing your electricity bill as well. Fresh air and good ventilation can also prevent from headaches, dizziness and fatigue. Page | 176

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Very important safety sewing rules should apply when using poisonous substances, such as bleach, fabric dyes, some types of glue or similar. And we all know clothes reworking techniques use lots of these. In those cases you must getacquainted with the particular technique before use and create safe conditions for yourself, other family members or pets in your household. Keep those safety rules in mind if you are into eco-dyeing, too. Some natural dye sources could be also very poisonous, like machinery, tools leaves, flowers and so on - while using them, or later can affect the skin that is in contact with that cloth. Therefore, research the selected methods well before use and assure they are not dangerous to work with or to the skin when worn afterwards. Clothing & Hair One of the most important safety sewing rules are related to sewist's clothing and hear. Avoid any loose or hanging accessories, clothing or dangling items. Instead of too loose, long, fitted and tight clothing, wear something comfortable, semi-fitted to the body. Keep the jewellery to minimum and remove everything that can get caught into the machinery. Long hear has to be securely tied back. And last, but not least, always wear closed shoes when sewing, cutting and doing all the related things. Machine & Other Equipment Use Paying attention when dealing with needles, cutting equipment or machinery is the best prevention Page | 177

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide When sewing keep your fingers clear of the sewing point at all time, especially when you are beginner or you use a newly purchased machine. When machine sewing thick materials, bulky seams or buttons, go slowly (or stay as far as possible), because the needle may brake and small pieces could go into your eye of face. When cutting always ensure you are wearing closed shoes. But also designate a special area for the heavy and sharp tools somewhere on the cutting table or around it. Be cautious not to leave scissors under the material, for instance. It could slide off the table easily while removing the material away. Pins are small, but often cause big damages. The simplest safety sewing rules are to be aware when using pins and never put them in your mouth! If you have that habit, it‘s time to change it. Place a magnet cushion around you, buy a wrist pin cushion or pin them temporary on chest area of your blouse (and remove immediately when finish with pinning). Everything is better than using your mouth. I found the easiest to get rid of that habit is when you are in a sewing room with other dressmakers who also put pins in their mouth;) गहने को न्मूनतभ यखने औय भशीनयी भंे ऩकडे जाने वारी चीजों को हर्ा दंे। रफंी े सभम तक सनु ना सुयक्षऺत रूऩ से फधंी ा हुआ है। Regular Brakes Considering how to redo and transform clothing, sewing, tweaking patterns, drafting and cutting are all processes that sometimes take lots of time. On one side, absorbing our attention and time, but on the other, may cause dizziness, dehydration, fainting, headaches etc. and by that, increase the risk of injuries. Therefore, keep in mind the time and try to have small breaks. Or simply change the activity with the opposite. If you are sitting for long time, go and do something else to walk around. If you are staring too long in detailed stitching, it is time to look at the window and rest your eyes. Just small re-organisation of what you are doing is enough to support your energy and caution and keep you going for longer. Complete forms, records and other documentation Good record keeping makes sure you pay workers correctly. It also gives you useful information to forecast future costs. Other employee records you are obliged to keep are:  start and end date of employment or contract end date  what agreement covers their employment e.g. award, workplace agreement, contract  start and finish times of overtime hours worked for employees entitled to overtime penalty rates or loadings  leave accruals e.g. annual leave and personal leave  superannuation fund and contribution details. Page | 178

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Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Documentation to complete There are a number of documents which the employee must complete as a part of the recruitment process including:  contact information  emergency contact details (in case of emergency whilst at work)  bank account details (so wages can be paid into the nominated account). It is easier if a form is created which lists all of these details and can be put into the employee's file. Tax file declaration form A Tax file number declaration form needs to be completed so that you can work out how much tax to withhold from employee payments. Make sure the work area is free from hazards Every workplace has hazards. As an employer, you have a legal responsibility to look after your employees‘ safety and protect them against health and safety hazards at work. In order to manage workplace health and safety and help prevent accidents and sickness absence, it‘s important to identify, monitor and reduce the risk associated with workplace hazards. What are workplace hazards? Simply put, workplace hazards are any aspect of work that cause health and safety risks and have the potential to harm. Some hazards are more likely to be present in some workplaces than others, and depending on the work that you do, there will be hazards that are more or less relevant to your business. Page | 180

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide What are the most common workplace hazards? There are many types of workplace hazards, which tend to come under four main categories:  physical hazards – the most common workplace hazards, including vibration, noise and slips, trips and falls;  ergonomic hazards – physical factors that harm the musculoskeletal system, such as repetitive movement, manual handling and poor body positioning;  chemical hazards – any hazardous substance that can cause harm to your employees;  biological hazards – bacteria and viruses that can cause health effects, such as hepatitis, HIV/AIDS and Legionnaire‘s disease. Common health risks Some of the most common health risks associated with workplace hazards include:  breathing problems;  skin irritation;  damage to muscles, bones and joints;  hearing damage;  reduced wellbeing.  How to prevent workplace hazards The best way to protect yourself and your employees from workplace hazards is to identify and manage them and take reasonable steps to prevent their potential to harm. In order to control workplace hazards and eliminate or reduce the risk, you should take the following steps:  identify the hazard by carrying out a workplace risk assessment;  determine how employees might be at risk;  evaluate the risks;  record and review hazards at least annually, or earlier if something changes. Carry out work functions in line with the responsibilities of your job Sewing machine operators operate and tend sewing machines in order to perform garment sewing operations. This includes joining, reinforcing and decorating garments or parts of garments. Sewing machine operators handle work on a large scale as they are required to operate and tend to industrial machineries. They Page | 181

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide mount attachments such as needles and pattern blades and adjust machines according to the specifications provided to them. Sewing machine operators also adjust machine controls and regulate stitching speeds for every sewing project that they work on. It is important for sewing machine operators to possess in depth knowledge of sewing machinery and the garments industry. They also need to have sound hand-eye coordination and be able to cope with moderate physical effort. • Refer to orders for sewing garments and select appropriate materials • Ensure that all materials and auxiliary supplies are available prior to beginning work • Start sewing machinery at the beginning of a shift and test it for proper functionality • Address any discrepancies or problems faced during the testing period • Draw threads through needles and adjust machine functions to meet the requirements of the sewing project • Position materials under needles to sew them together or make patterns • Replace and rethread needles for a subsequent project or in case of the existing one needing more thread • Sew missing stitches or replacement parts in accordance to repair instructions provided • Observe operations to detect any faults or defects in stitching • Notify supervisors of any problems or discrepancies during the sewing process • Attach button, grips, hooks and fasteners to finished garments • Attach elastic or tape to garments as specified in the work order • Ensure that the finished product conforms to the design and merchandizing instructions provided in the work order • Ensure that excess material or threads are cut away from the finished product • Trim finished garments using scissors and cutters • Perform general and preventative maintenance tasks on sewing machines to ensure their longevity • Examine finished garments for compliance and ensure that appropriate tags are sewed on them • Count number of garments stitched during a shift and record this information in company provided logs Page | 182

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide CHAPTER - 9 Maintain Work Area, Tools and Machines Introduction This unit provides performance criteria, knowledge & understanding and skills & abilities required to organize/maintain work areas and activities to ensure tools and machines are maintained as per norms. Handle materials, machinery, equipment and tools safely and correctly Machines are essential to modern production. However, along with increased productivity, they have brought hazards into the workplace. Proper control of machine hazards has traditionally been seen as costly and a constraint on productivity. In general, the garment manufacturing industry is considered to be less dangerous than other industrial sectors and, therefore, safety policy is a low priority in many enterprises. For example, it has been observed that some workers remove guards protecting belts from sewing machines, and manual cutting machines are operated with naked hands. Machine breakdown is a common cause of production delay affecting delivery schedules. Considering the importance of meeting delivery dates, a competitive enterprise cannot afford penalties for delay due to machine breakdown Thus, proper maintenance of machines to prolong their economic life, reduce breakdowns, prevent defective outputs and ensure safe operation should be given more importance. Protecting workers against pollution from the frequent use of solvents for cleaning and the existence of cotton or other fibres in the environment should also be taken into consideration. Page | 183

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Maintenance and safety measures to eliminate these hazards and increase machine productivity, together with low-cost techniques for environmental control, are discussed below. Give your machines a productivity check Walk through the plant and take note of the following:  are there any delays or bottlenecks caused by styleific machines?  do any machines operate slowly because of wear and tear?  is there fear or hesitation among workers caused by unsafe machines or processes?  are there situations where machine guards have been altered, removed or destroyed?  have any machines been out of action in the past week/month, due to breakdown? Machine safety All machines in the garment industry can be potentially dangerous when they are misused. You can eliminate, control or minimize the risk of accidents by installing guards on unprotected machinery, e.g., band knives in the cutting room. Workers should wear personal protective equipment and ALL cutters should wear chain-mail gloves. Sewing machines are relatively safe provided the correct training on how to use them has been carried out. Irons, estyleially steam irons, can cause serious steam burns if not used correctly. The most common accidents in the garment industry are: cut fingers in the cutting room a needle in the finger burns from irons. There may be other hazards as well in the workshop, such as unprotected belts or pedals, unused displays or controls, hot parts, contaminated vapours, uncovered cans with solvents evaporating, naked electric wiring, etc. ALL hazards, wherever possible, should be removed. If you cannot eliminate a hazard, try to control it. The next step is to place a guard around it. However, guards must be very carefully designed or they may get in the way. Page | 184

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Maintain machines properly A poorly maintained machine can be inefficient, if not dangerous. It will also have frequent breakdowns and quality problems. Proper maintenance is not lost production time; it is an investment for higher productivity and lower repair costs. Yet in many companies, machines are maintained only when they break down. This is due to a number of reasons:  machines are owned by the contractors or they are leased  no maintenance personnel are available  no time to maintain machines is allocated under  production time  there is a strong belief that maintenance means cost some machines are not easy to maintain. Machine down-time affects production and causes delays. Defects are also produced causing quality and productivity problems. Machine maintenance should, therefore, be planned and coordinated with supervisors and workers. Workers should be involved in machine maintenance and should be supplied with a basic tool kit to include tweezers, small screwdriver, machine brush, oil can and cloth wipes. One of the basic training skills is to train workers to do routine machine maintenance such as:  changing broken needles  bobbin changes machine  cleaning adjusting thread tensions. All other machine maintenance should be carried out by qualified mechanics or technician. Some activities need to be carried out weekly, others every two weeks and some on a monthly basis. Page | 185

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Use correct lifting and handling procedures Manual handling causes over a third of all workplace injuries. These include work- related musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs) such as pain and injuries to arms, legs and joints, and repetitive strain injuries of various sorts. The term manual handling covers a wide variety of activities including lifting, lowering, pushing, pulling and carrying. If any of these tasks are not carried out appropriately there is a risk of injury. Manual handling injuries can have serious implications for the employer and the person who has been injured. They can occur almost anywhere in the workplace and heavy manual labour, awkward postures, repetitive movements of arms, legs and back or previous/existing injury can increase the risk. To help prevent manual handling injuries in the workplace, you should avoid such tasks as far as possible. However, where it is not possible to avoid handling a load, employers must look at the risks of that task and put sensible health and safety measures in place to prevent and avoid injury. For any lifting activity Always take into account:  individual capability  the nature of the load  environmental conditions  training  work organisation Page | 186

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide If you need to lift something manually  Reduce the amount of twisting, stooping and reaching  Avoid lifting from floor level or above shoulder height, estyleially heavy loads  Adjust storage areas to minimise the need to carry out such movements  Consider how you can minimise carrying distances  Assess the weight to be carried and whether the worker can move the load safely or needs any help – maybe the load can be broken down to smaller, lighter components If you need to use lifting equipment  Consider whether you can use a lifting aid, such as a forklift truck, electric or hand-powered hoist, or a conveyor  Think about storage as part of the delivery process – maybe heavy items could be delivered directly, or closer, to the storage area  Reduce carrying distances where possible Good handling technique for lifting There are some simple things to do before and during the lift/carry:  Remove obstructions from the route.  For a long lift, plan to rest the load midway on a table or bench to change grip.  Keep the load close to the waist. The load should be kept close to the body for as long as possible while lifting.  Keep the heaviest side of the load next to the body.  Adopt a stable position and make sure your feet are apart, with one leg slightly forward to maintain balance. Page | 187

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Think before lifting/handling. Plan the lift. Can handling aids be used? Where is the load going to be placed? Will help be needed with the load? Remove obstructions such as discarded wrapping materials. For a long lift, consider resting the load midway on a table or bench to change grip. Adopt a stable position. The feet should be apart with one leg slightly forward to maintain balance (alongside the load, if it is on the ground). Be prepared to move your feet during the lift to maintain your stability. Avoid tight clothing or unsuitable footwear, which may make this difficult. Get a good hold. Where possible, the load should be hugged as close as possible to the body. This may be better than gripping it tightly with hands only. Start in a good posture. At the start of the lift, slight bending of the back, hips and knees is preferable to fully flexing the back (stooping) or fully flexing the hips and knees (squatting). Don’t flex the back any further while lifting. This can happen if the legs begin to straighten before starting to raise the load. Keep the load close to the waist. Keep the load close to the body for as long as possible while lifting. Keep the heaviest side of the load next to the body. If a close approach to the load is not possible, try to slide it towards the body before attempting to lift it. Avoid twisting the back or leaning sideways, estyleially while the back is bent. Shoulders should be kept level and facing in the same direction as the hips. Turning by moving the feet is better than twisting and lifting at the same time. Page | 188

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Keep the head up when handling. Look ahead, not down at the load, once it has been held securely. Move smoothly. The load should not be jerked or snatched as this can make it harder to keep control and can increase the risk of injury. Don’t lift or handle more than can be easily managed. There is a difference between what people can lift and what they can safely lift. If in doubt, seek advice or get help. Put down, then adjust. If precise positioning of the load is necessary, put it down first, then slide it into the desired position. Maintain a clean and hazard free working area Dust originates from fabrics and threads, from cutting and sewing to packing operations. Thus, it is very common to see small clothing enterprises with ceilings and walls full of dusty cobwebs. Even machines which are not regularly cleaned could be full of dust which may cause them to break down. Dust increases wear and tear on machinery, necessitating more maintenance. It also negatively affects the quality of raw materials and finished products. Dust entering the respiratory system can damage the worker's lungs. Some dust can also cause allergies. Dust should be removed regularly and eliminated from the source. More comprehensive cleaning should be carried out as often as necessary. This cleaning should also include walls, ceilings, storage racks and other areas where dust accumulates. Dust on windows, walls and lamps will significantly reduce the lighting in the workplace. One low-cost cleaning method is sweeping the floor carefully with an appropriate broom and accompanying dust pan to prevent dust from spreading. Spraying water on the floor before sweeping will avoid dust remaining airborne. When dust is moistened it can be easily removed with a broom More effective methods of controlling dust include using a vacuum cleaner or a wet mop. Page | 189

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Warning: Do not blow dust away. Dust containing very small particles does not fall immediately to the floor after being raised by sweeping and blowing. A 0.001 mm particle will only fall 1 m in 3.5 hours in static air. This means that a particle remains airborne most of the working day and can be inhaled. Frequently, dust cannot be seen in the air, but the next day it can be found covering the floor, work tables, machinery, materials and finished products. Make local ventilation cost-effective Local ventilation should only be considered as a means of reducing chemical hazards when other means have failed. There are cost-effective ways of improving ventilation. Use proper fans Apart from those used for ventilating workstations, fans may be utilized to remove dangerous substances from the workplace. Contaminated air can be pushed or blown outside by having more open windows. A few points should be considered:  There should be no obstacles between the fan and opening.  Anything in the way significantly reduces the desired effect the air speed should be low to reduce turbulence. There are advantages and disadvantages for these types of fans. Industrial fans are so powerful that workers near them may be affected. Ceiling fans of the rotary type may lift the cloth being sewn, hence speed should be controlled  contaminated air should not be blown in the direction of other workers on the way to the opening  care should be taken that air expelled from the workplace does not affect people outside the enterprise  a fan may not be sufficient to remove vapours from hazardous fumes such as those sometimes used in silkscreen printing. Extractor systems to remove dust and hazardous chemicals should be installed. These systems may be quite expensive and it may be more economical to replace the hazardous chemicals. Page | 190

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Maintain tools and equipment Most sewing machine problems that I encounter can be traced to poor general maintenance or neglect. But with some simple tools & just a few minutes daily, weekly, or monthly — depending on how much you're sewing — you can help keep your machine running smoothly. Keep it covered When not in use, keep a cover over your machine. This helps to keep dust out of it, very important for electronic machines in particular. o If storing your machine away, try to keep it somewhere dry & free of insects. Moisture can play havoc with the moving parts in your machine, as can the tiny feet of insects across circuit boards. o Switch your machine off at the wall or unplug the supply cord if not in use. Power surge is a real threat in Queensland, and even small surges can have major effects that your insurance policy will not cover. Change your Needles Often o I recommend you change needles every 4 hours or 2nd garment. A Bent or blunt needle will lead to skipped stitches, poor tension or even damaged fabric. It some cases it can even do costly damage to your machine. o Always use the appropriate needle for the fabric. Sharps are best for wovens, Universal for synthetics & stretch ball points for stretch. There are a myriad of other needles available — I am happy to answer any styleific questions on needles. Page | 191

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Remember that although the needle is one of the least expensive parts of your project, strangely enough it is highly likely to be one of the two most common wreckers of it. Don‘t take the risk on an old needle. Wind Bobbins Correctly o There is no such thing as a generic bobbin. Always use the bobbin your manufacturer recommends for your machine. o I recommend a good supply of bobbins. Try to avoid winding over existing thread as this can create tails that can jam your machine. If you have a low bobbin sensor, this will not work if you have overwound thread. o Do not use damaged or rusty bobbins. These are likely to ‗drag‘ & give poor tension. o I do not recommend using pre-wound bobbins unless they are of a type that is endorsed by the maker of your machine. Pre-wound bobbins can foul mechanisms, & will often confuse low bobbin sensors. Regular Cleaning is Essential o It is a good idea to familiarise yourself with how to clean your machine. If kept clean, your machine is less likely to require major work when it comes time for service. o Refer to your instruction manual to get basic information on the care & cleaning of your machine. Page | 192

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Thread Matters o The least expensive part of your project is likely to be your thread. Unfortunately, this is the area where people try to save the most money!! Poor quality thread can lead to many problems, some of which can have expensive long term impacts o Poor thread = poor stitch quality. Many tension problems are often due to the effects of poor quality thread. o Poor quality thread leaves behind much lint & dust. This can build up in your tension, bobbin case & thread guides. This also leads to inconsistent thread travel & stitches. More seriously however, it can also create mechanical problems by soaking up lubrication, effectively running your machine dry. Lint & fabric dust can also foul gears & work its way into bearings & shafts. These are often expensive faults to fix. o Many people own machines with auto or electronic tensions. These are only as accurate as the thread is consistent. If you use a cheap thread, it will be inconsistent in its thickness. Tension units are just not able to be accurate with poor thread. o Threads that are older than 5 years (particularly natural fibres such as 100% cotton), can be weakened. I recommend that they not be used as they can break & end up leaving bits of thread in the mechanism of your machine. In some cases, they can also leave moisture in your machine tension & thread guides, which can create a small rust trail. NOTE: This is particularly true on the Sunshine Coast! Page | 193

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Protecting Your Investment o If you have a computerized or electronic machine, I strongly recommend using a surge cube or protector. This will help to protect against surges, storm damage & ‗brown outs‘ (low voltage troughs). Electronic circuitry can be costly to repair, & while this is not a guarantee that your computer won‘t fail, it will provide protection against many situations. In fact, any sensitive electronic equipment you have, such as computers, large TV‘s & the like should also be protected. (Please note that these do not perform the same role as a safety switch) o Regular service is important. Your machine should be serviced yearly to keep lubrication fluid & the various mechanical settings accurate. Regular service will often pick up developing problems & ‗nip them in the bud‘ prior to becoming expensive repairs. By the time your machine starts to clank like a tractor, it is often too late to avoid parts replacement!! o Take advantage of lessons offered by your retailer. This will give you important information relevant to your machines. Many faults I encounter are avoidable. Carry out running maintenance within agreed schedules Good sewing of garments are achieved through quality of the sewing machine. A good garment is made on good sewing machine. So, the maintenance of the industrial sewing machine is always good enough to provide good quality oriented seams. In Apparel industries are mostly used imported sewing machines. The reason is to gain defect free seams and stitches. so, the preventive maintenance for industrial are considered to be very much important. Page | 194

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Industrial Sewing Machine The following points are to be checked: 1. Cleaning 2. Lubrication 3. Periodical service CLEANING: The following area to be cleaned; Spoolstand, Machine head top complete Hook set area completely. Page | 195

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide SN Description Schedule Recommended Remarks mode of cleaning Ensure that there is no 1 Spool stand Everyday Cotton Pins, labels, buttons other than the thread cone on the spool. 2 Machine Everyday Cotton Remove the complete dust head from the tire areas including Bobbin winding area, Knee lifter connecting areas, backside of the machine arm etc.., 3 Hook Twice a Soft Brush Unscrew the needle plate shuttle week and remove the dust and threads and clean the feed dog, trimming mechanism, hook set areas, feed bar Areas, feed bar areas etc., 4 Oil tank Everyday Brush Tweser / Where the flap and thread Magnet etc., Will accumulate. 5 Bottom oil Once in a Blower C heck there is no pins, tank week bits of cloth and bits of thread , labels etc., in the oil tank and edge of the oil tank. LUBRICATION:  Use the exact specified oil as per sample. (How to identify? Check with laboratory. Oil to be purchased along with the laboratory test report.  Apply oil in the manually applied areas (red house) Please check in the respective manual. Page | 196

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide OIL TANK: Every 420 hours of machine running, oil to be completely drained gauge. Check twice a week. IMPORTANT CHECKING POINTS  Make sure the oil flow- check the oil gauge window every day. If oil doesn‘t flow through the window, please stop the machine and check the entire lubrication device.  Make sure the hook set lubrication –(refer the technician). In case the oil flow is more or less adjust the oil regulating screw located bottom of the machine.  Check all the wick lubrication areas; whether the oil flow is proper (refer to manual). PERIODICAL SERVICE: (Make sure to use proper tools) Once in 1280 machine running hours complete overhauling to be done, according to the model / condition of the machine. Check the condition of moving parts (refer service manual), If necessary the following parts to be replaced such as needle bar, needle bar bushing, Take up lever , Hook set, feed bar, Trimmers, defective screws, spring etc.,. Whenever the compressed air is used, make sure the air system is regulated properly and moisture free air to be used. TRIMMER: SHOULD BE CHECKED WEEKLY TWICE. PROPER STITCH: Page | 197

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide In order to produce proper stitch the following parts to be checked;  NEEDLE  THREAD  THREAD STAND  THREAD CONE  THREAD GUIDE HOIES  THREAD CHECK SPRING  NEEDLE TENSION  BOBBIN THREAD TENSION  HOOK/LOOPER TIMING  PRESSER FOOT/FEED/ DOG/ NEEDLE PLATE SN Description Schedule Remarks 1 Needle Daily A. Check type of the needle 2 Thread Daily B. Check size of the needle 3 Thread stand C. Check position of the needle 4 Thread cone D. Check needle point of the 5 Thread guide needle (suitable to the fabric) holes E. If the needle is bent/broken/ blund , please replace the needle. Make sure the thread is suitable to the fabric and sizes of the needle. Daily In order to release the thread freely match the angle of spool-holder and thread hanger assembly. Daily frequently Should be kept vertically on the once in 15 days thread spool. According to Thread guides/Tension disk/spring to be change if grooved damaged. thread to be replaced 800 t0 1200 M/C Page | 198

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 6 Thread check Running house The spring to be adjusted according spring depending on the to the thread and the fabric condition of the spring 7 Needle thread Daily A. Check threading: Threading should be done properly (should tension pass through every holes of thread guides) B. Tension shoulder be kept as light as possible. 8 Bobbin thread Daily Check the bobbin condition, if tension damaged/ bent to be replaced. A. Bobbin winding: Make sure the bobbin is evenly wind with even tension. B. Bobbin thread tension: To be adjusted according to the fabric and the thread. 9 Hook/Looper Every 15 days Check the timing of hook/looper timing and needle (refer to the service manual) A. Check hook/looper point daily whether it is damaged. Make it smooth or replace it. B.Check the needle plate hole daily whether it is damaged. Make it smooth or replace it. 10 Pressurefoot Every 15 days Use the correct types of the needle plate/pressure foot/feed dog feeddog/ Needle according to the fabric and operations. plate Pressure should be adjusted 11 Pressure Every 15 days according to type of fabric and operation. Page | 199

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The above mentioned tips are more useful to the sewing room personnel. Sewing mechanics are must be able to prevent the sewing defects by maintaining the care of the industrial sewing machines. Defect free seam and stitches of garments are always having the value-added products and gain more profitable. Seams quality must be obtained through the preventive maintenance of the industrial sewing machines respectively. Carry out maintenance and/or cleaning within one’s responsibility Maintenance may be defined as the chronological activities or as the process of systematic activities done for keeping the m\\c or equipments at the heat level for well run or its proper services. In the apparel industry, machine maintenance department is one that works silently. They don‘t get recognized much for their work. In the organized garment factories, maintenance people work closely with Industrial Engineering department when it comes for shop floor machine maintenance. In many factories management does not concern about their performance. So machine mechanics just do their job to keep machine running and always do breakdown maintenance. A factory can gain substantial benefit by setting up defined work responsibility and making list of activities to be done by maintenance department other than just repairing machines when it breakdown. Some of the tangible benefits of performing given activities well are: 1. Reduced machine breakdown, 2. Lower maintenance cost 3. Lower product cost 4. Improved Machine performance The maintenance activities can be broadly classified into two major categories, such as machine breakdown maintenance and preventive maintenance. Page | 200