Sewing Machine Operator

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Product Package: Product Package is a sheet or no. of sheets which includes the following  Design / Sketch  Specification sheet or Measurement sheet  Label Positioning  Accessories required  Stitch type Pattern: Pattern is the replica of various separate components of a garment. These patterns are placed on fabric or on this paper (marker paper) to associate in fabric cutting. Working Pattern: The pattern which is made for sample making is called working pattern. It is made for a particular style with net dimension working pattern is also called garments pattern. Production pattern: production pattern is the patterns made for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance. Marker: Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garment in such a way that fabric wastage would be least. Numbering: The process of identifying different fabric lay in a fabric lay out by numbering (1, 2, 3……..) them is called Numbering. Page | 51

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Numbering is two Types: Lay Numbering: for maintaining shade. Pieces Numbering: to assemble to Specific Size. Sewing: Sewing is the most important step of garments manufacturing. Sewing is the way of joining of garments components with the help of needle and thread. It is the dominant process of garments assembling & still the best way of achieving both strength and flexibility in seam. Objects of sewing: The objective of sewing is the construction of the seam of required standard and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production. Seam: Seam is the join between two or more plies of material. Seams are usually formed by sewing but welding adhesive one often used for making seam. In another way seam can be defined as seam is the application of a series of stitches on stitch type to one or several pitches of material. Requirement of garments assembling/ sewing: Cutting fabric components: All parts of a particular garment should at first be available before sewing. Need same numbering cut pieces: Page | 52

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide At first all components of a particular lay of fabric should be given same number. For example, all the component of 3rd lay is given number 3 then the same numbered components are used for making a garment. That is number 3 pocket in joined with number 3 back part and with number 3 sleeves and so on. We should not joined a component of a lay with another component of different lay. This is maintained for avoiding shade variation in garment. Because the shade of fabric may differ from lay to lay and if such shade variation is occurred. The garment will be rejected. DTM sewing thread: Dye to match (DTM) sewing thread is essential for sewing, because the colure of fabric and thread should be identical. Again the fastness of dye of both thread and fabric should be same. Otherwise are will be faded us before the other. After the sewing thread being available garment manufacturing is started. All accessories must be available: For making garments several accessories are required. For example- Zipper, Button, Interlining etc are required. They should be available. Proper needle selection: For sewing particular garment. Proper needle should be of proper size and point. For sewing knitted fabric the needle should be of ball point and for sewing woven fabric shaped V- pointed needle should be used. Page | 53

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Seam Performance: Performance of seam means the achievement of perfect strength, elasticity, durability, security & comfort along with any special fabric properties like flammability & waterproofing. Performance of seam means achievement of following qualities..  Seam strength  Seam elasticity  Seam durability  Security of seam  Comfort of seam 1) Seam strength: Seam strength should be lower or equal to fabric strength. If seam strength is higher than the fabric strength then the fabric may tear due to unexpected force applied or the fabric seam strength depends on  Strength of the thread used.  Stitch density.  Seam type. 2) Seam Elasticity: The seam should be equal or higher elastic then the fabric, otherwise when force will be applied fabric will be stretched more than the sewing thread & sewing thread may tear and seam may be opened. Seam elasticity varies depending on the types of fabric. That is knitted or woven. 3) Seam Durability: Durability of seam should be equal or higher than the fabric, especially the seam should not be damaged or worm out due to friction and while cleaning. Page | 54

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 4) Security of Seam: While using the garments, the seam thread should not be torn or opened. 5) Comfortness of seam: In close fitting or undergarments, seam must not present an uncomfortable ridge or roughness to the skin. Seam Allowance: A predetermined amount of fabric between the edge of component parts of the garments and the seam line. Too small a seam allowance greatly reduces the seam strength. A seam allowance is measured from the cut-edge of fabric to the main line of stitches. Excessive seam allowance results in fabric wastage. Make adjustments promptly to return product to specification Product returns have often been viewed by customers as a necessary evil, a painful process and, usually, unavoidable. For retailers, manufacturers and distributors, returns have often been seen as a nuisance, a cost center and an area of potential customer dissatisfaction. As long as products are being sold, there will always be some returns. However, many successful organizations have realized that the returns process incurs significant costs and that an effective product returns strategy, which is a major aspect of reverse logistics can provide a number of benefits. Product returns can be categorized into two groups: Page | 55

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 1)controllable returns, which can be avoided or eliminated by actions taken by the company, and (2)uncontrollable returns, which companies can do little or nothing about in the short term. CONTROLLABLE RETURNS. Controllable returns result from problems, difficulties or errors of the seller or customer and can be mostly eliminated with the proper strategies and programs by the company or its supply chain partners. Every controllable factor has a cause or causes that could be minimized or eliminated with better forward logistics processes, improved market forecasting, improved product handling or storage and so forth. Products returned because of damage can be eliminated through some combination of improved handling, better packaging, improved transportation and storage of the items as they are being distributed in the supply chain. In essence, this is eliminating problems before they happen. UNCONTROLLABLE RETURNS. Uncontrollable returns cannot be eliminated by the company in the short term and, thus, these returns are often inevitable. The logic behind developing returns processes, primarily for uncontrollable returns, is straightforward. In warehousing, companies do not build, lease or rent storage space to accommodate the maximum amount of product that might be demanded by customers. Because inventory carrying costs can be high, companies often try to minimize or eliminate inventory altogether through Just-in-Time programs. Warehouses are configured to handle the minimal amount of product necessary to satisfy customer demand, relying on high levels of inventory velocity or turnover. Therefore, the optimal amount of product returns would be the minimal amount that is possible; that is, only the uncontrollable returns. Reverse logistics is becoming increasingly important as product life cycles get shorter and shorter, particularly after the holiday season. Without an effective returns policy, retailers may be opening their business up to unnecessary liability. Page | 56

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Typically, most of product management is focused on the volume-shipping aspect or the introductory phase of the product life cycle. But leading businesses are broadening their perspective by focusing on managing returns. Below are some measures you can take to minimize waste and protect your bottom line: 1. Have a Streamlined Repackaging Process Inbound Logistics pointed out that repackaging and repairing a product for resale in a secondary market can help retailers to recoup as much as 25% of the original retail cost. But keep in mind that repairing is not needed for items that look fine on the inside, but have box damage on the outside. The returned products end up retaining much more value if the decision to liquidate inventory is made quickly. Also, refurbishing the returned items, rather than neglecting them to be scrapped, retains some of their value and benefits the environment. Retailers selling electronics can easily refurbish and resell 95% of retail returns. Most ecommerce businesses accept returns via parcel, and stamp a return shipping label in the delivery box. Some are also investing in sturdier packaging to ensure the product remains in good condition both on the inside and outside through shipping and returns, and is able to survive a longer transportation cycle. 2. Create a Strong Return Policy A company‘s return policy has a profound impact on the efficiency of reverse logistics. If you are too generous, you can attract customers but will incur major expenses. If you are too stingy, you can keep costs low but at the expense of hurting customer relationships. Likewise, making the returns process difficult or confusing for the customer is not the right approach. Page | 57

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Since customer experience is cyclical, the way returns are handled makes a real difference in how people feel about your business. With a clear return policy, you can build customer trust and reduce the hassle of returning items. Creating a standard policy around who can return items, and under what circumstances, is the foundation of any reverse logistics plan. Consider Third Party Logistics Perhaps you‘re not in a position to invest in integrating the best reverse logistics processes into your company. In that case, you can outsource this part of your supply chain like many large companies do. Fault-find materials and components for creased, stained, damage and incorrectly made-up component parts An unravelled hem, a loose button, a jammed zip - it‘s happened to all of us. But it seems it‘s happening more and more and we‘re just not prepared to put up with it. Statistics released this week show that last year there was a huge surge in the number of people complaining about women‘s fashion. Faults in garment is very common word in apparel industry. Various types of faults are found during production in garment factory. These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are caused by the sewing lines. Finding defects in garment is very important task for quality controller. Because quality is strictly maintained by garment buyer. So, in the apparel industry quality control is strictly practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality is measured in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products. By inspecting garment items before to shipping, you can be sure that any garment defects or other issues have been addressed before the goods leave the factory. Page | 58

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Garments defects are also classified in three categories: 1. Fabric defects 2. Workmanship and handling defects 3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects 1. Fabric Defects The defects or faults are found in fabric are called fabric defects. Mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines. Running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc are the common fabric defects. Fabric defects should be addressed at the point of fabric inspection, or cutting. Fabric defects should not appear at final garments. Fabric defects can further be classified into 3 groups color defects, construction defects and cleanliness. 2. Workmanship and Handling Defects: Such types of defects are directly caused by production section, this would include both the cutting and sewing section. Buyer‘s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect workmanship. These defects should never be allowed to raise above a certain percentage. 3. Trims, Accessories and Embellishment Defects These defects involve color and placement issues. Maximum such types of defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims. Page | 59

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Report faults in other processes to the appropriate person Quality control inspectors examine products and materials for defects or deviations from manufacturer or industry specifications. They ensure that your food will not make you sick, that your car will run properly, and that your pants will not split the first time you wear them. These workers monitor quality standards for nearly all manufactured products, including foods, textiles, clothing, glassware, motor vehicles, electronic components, computers, and structural steel. Specific job duties vary across the wide range of industries in which these inspectors work. What does a Quality Control Inspector do? Quality control inspectors:  Read and understand blueprints and specifications  Monitor or observe operations to ensure that they meet production standards  Recommend adjustments to the process or assembly  Inspect, test, or measure materials or products being produced  Measure products with rulers, calipers, gauges, or micrometers  Accept or reject finished items  Remove all products and materials that fail to meet specifications  Discuss inspection results with those responsible for products  Report inspection and test data Quality control workers rely on a number of tools to do their job. Although some still use hand-held measurement devices, such as calipers and alignment gauges, they more commonly operate electronic inspection equipment, such as coordinate- measuring machines (CMMs). Inspectors testing electrical devices may use voltmeters, ammeters, and ohmmeters to test potential difference, current flow, and resistance, respectively. Page | 60

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Quality control workers record the results of their inspections and prepare test reports. When they find defects, inspectors notify supervisors and help to analyze and correct the production problems. In some firms, the inspection process is completely automated, with advanced vision inspection systems installed at one or several points in the production process. Inspectors in these firms monitor the equipment, review output, and do random product checks. What is the workplace of a Quality Control Inspector like? Work environments vary by industry and establishment size. As a result, some inspectors examine similar products for an entire shift. Others examine a variety of items. In manufacturing, it is common for most inspectors to stay at one workstation. Inspectors in some industries may be on their feet all day and may have to lift heavy objects. In other industries, workers may sit during their shift and read electronic printouts of data. Workers in heavy-manufacturing plants may be exposed to the noise and grime of machinery. In other plants, inspectors work in clean, air-conditioned environments suitable for testing products. Although the work is generally not dangerous, some workers may be exposed to airborne particles, which may irritate the eyes and skin. As a result, workers typically wear protective eyewear, ear plugs, and appropriate clothing. Although most quality control inspectors work full time during regular business hours, some inspectors work evenings or weekends. The most desirable shifts are generally given to workers who have seniority. Overtime may be required to meet production deadlines. Maintain the required productivity and quality levels To control the productivity/efficiency level of a textile company ESGE suggests analyzing the following areas: 1) worker/labor productivity As textile-industry is mainly labour orientated and the degree of automisation/ instrumentation is compared with other industries considerably low, the influence of an improvement in worker/labour productivity is quite high. The efficiency of worker/labor productivity depends beside others on following point:  skilled and semiskilled workers experience and training  management experience and training  flexible and willing workforce  good working conditions to secure worker‗s health and safety Page | 61

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  proper production settings to ensure smooth production flow  proper manpower planning to avoid expensive gaps in production 2) Equipment productivity  The average age of the sewing-machines and all the other equipments is quite high.  The organization for maintenance of sewing- machines and other equipment is not developed, there is no possibility, respectively no interest, in deducting a possible problem before the machine breakdown or machine malfunction.  the mechanics are not trained and basic knowledge is missing  Due to financial situation no possibilities to invest in new machines. Page | 62

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 3) Resource productivity Resource productivity /efficiency means using limited resources in a sustainable manner while minimizing impact on environment. Resource productivity is usually separated in  productivity material  productivity energy This defines the usage of raw-material and accessories which is used for the production incl. taking care of quality  resource productivity in cutting, use of fabric during cutting-process  resource productivity in sewing Complete and maintain documentation To give a clear guideline to the concerned personnel to use and control the documents used in each department. This procedure is a ―controlled‖ document and authorized for use. Before using a printed copy of this document, it should be ensured that it is the most up to date version by checking the date and version numbers with the Document Control Department. Unauthorized changes to the document and overwriting or using fluid are strictly prohibited. This policy specifies how important documents (hard copy, online or other media) should be controlled, distributed, retained, protected and disposed. The policy also ensures that: a) Necessary and important documents are preserved for future reference b) Documents that are not necessary are destroyed to avoid any confusion c) Documents are easily accessible d) Documents are of current version, executed, controlled and clearly defined how, where and who will be responsible to control and dispose the documents To successfully implement the operational procedures the Factory HR Departments must assure the following: i) Implement the policy in correct way and ensure its functional activities. ii) Educate all concerned persons about the policy and organize the training for all respective departments to execute the policy at all stages fully and efficiently. iii) Regularly monitor to ensure the documents are segregated, retained and disposed as per the policy. iv) Regularly monitor the Document destruction procedure (must be maintained as per the local law) and Collect the destruction form with evidence from the respective departments. v)That the retained documents are easily accessible. vi) Any need to change or modify any of the procedure and related documents must be approved through a meeting with the presence of the Managing Director. Page | 63

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide vii) Conduct at least one yearly meeting including Managing Director to review the implementation and execution of the procedures. Each department head and other relevant personnel Are responsible for the control, distribution (if applicable) and handling of their respective departments‘ documents. The Managing Director of in consultation with individual department heads will categorize the types of documents/records that need to be maintained and will assign retention periods upon periodic review of company policies and procedures. All forms used in the day to day activities must be controlled as per the general document control policy, however the authorized person to make changes will be the Chief Operating Officer after consulting with the Department Heads. ll revisions to forms must be made after consultation with the heads of the relevant departments. All running production related documents must be kept in their specific area with the identification and after completion of an order [final shipment] all documents should be shifted to Documents Control Room. Employs responsible persons bearing the designation of Documents Controllers who are responsible to collect the obsolete documents, organize the entire Documents Control Room, which will your convenient place within a factory. The designated room is identified by a signage as ‗Documents Control Room‘. Persons authorized to access and use the Document Control Room are listed and visibly posted at the entry gate of the room. The Document Controller will retain the documents, maintain the records and dispose the documents with evidence maintaining the relevant company policy and procedures. Manager, Technical Compliance & Auditis responsible to make sure the policies and procedures are implemented and controlled. If any non-compliance issues arise in any area the Manager, Technical Compliance & Audit will issue a Non Conformance slip and report the same to the Factory COO and the Managing Director. Controlled documents are found as mentioned in the master list of controlled document. Document Control: DDC Document & Date Control • MKT Marketing • MER Merchandising • TCA Technical Compliance & Audit • SCP Social Compliance • QMS Quality Management • QAS Quality Assurance • QCS Quality Control Page | 64

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide • ICQ Incoming Quality Control • PQT Pre-final Quality Team • SPL Sample • SEW Sewing • CUT Cutting • FIN Finishing • TST Testing • IVS Inventory & Stores • MNT Maintenance • IEP Industrial Engineering & Planning • TCT Technical Team • ICT Information Technology & Communication • FAD Finance & Accounts • CCA Cost Control & Internal Audit • COM Commercial • CLA Corporate & Legal Affairs 4.1.1.3 BBB is the document level, represented by 2 or 3 letters. • ORG Organization charts • WFD Work flow diagrams • PRO Procedure • WI Work Instruction • QP Quality Plan • FRM Format • LST List • FL File Page | 65

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide • MNC Memos & Notices • MMT Meeting Minutes • NCM Non Conforming material record • NCS Non Conformance Slip • CLB Calibration documents • CAP Corrective action plan • SNG Digital printed signage 4.1.1.4 ## is the individual document number, starting from 01. Revision of document: Whenever a new document is first created it is identified as version 1. As changes are made to the same document when any update or correction is implemented by Managing Director or by a buyer, the document version changes incrementally. For example, after a change is made to the first document, the version changes to 2 and will continue incrementally. Document Authorization and Approval: Factory has to be approved certain personnel who are authorized signatories and also responsible to initiate and distribute related documents in their respective departments and as appropriate. They are called Authorized Document Controllers. Any new or revision requirement of any document must be prepared in consultation with the Manager TC&A. All new or revised documents must be crossed checked thoroughly, signed, dated, the version number must be included by the authorized personnel as stated in the list of Authorized Document Controllers below. For revised documents the old versions must be recalled and made obsolete as per the Control of Obsolete Documents procedure for ensuring the use of current and up to date versions only. All new or revised documents must be submitted to the Manager TC&A who will review, sign and acquire final approval from the Managing Director prior to distribution. Page | 66

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide CHAPTER-5 Drafting and cutting the fabric Use the correct tools and equipments SEWING TOOLS and EQUIPMENT 1. Bent-Handled Shears-7 to 8 inch long scissors suitable for cutting fabric because the blades rest flat on the cutting surface. 2. Trimming Scissors- 6 inch long scissors used for trimming and clipping seams and for general use. 3. Pinking Shears- cuts a zigzag edge and is used for finishing hem edges, seams, etc. It should not be used for cutting out a garment b'coz it will not give an accurate cut line of the fabric. Page | 67

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 4. Seam Ripper- a handy little tool for taking out seams and removing stitches. It must be used carefully so as not to cut the fabric. 5. Cutting Board/Table- a flat board placed on a table where the fabric is laid out and cut. The fabric can be pinned securely to the cutting board/table to prevent it from slipping. 1. Sewing Gauge- a 6 inch gauge with a movable indicator convenient for measuring short lengths. Page | 68

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Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 7. Hem Gauge- a measuring device marked with various depths and hemline folds. It is practical when hemming straight on grain edges. 8. Tape Measure-a 60 inch lng measuring device used in taking body measurements, drafting patterns, and measuring fabrics. It has a metal tip and reversible markings in centimeters and inches. 9. Yardstick/Meterstick- is use to measure fabric and to check grain line. It can be used in marking a long straight lines and in measuring hem lengths. Page | 70

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 10. The Hip Curve is used in connecting or shaping slightly curve points.It has a measure of inches at the front and centimeters at the back part. 1. L-square - It is useful in constructing perpendicular lines with divisional parts located in longer and shorter arms. 1. Ruler - aids in connecting shorter lines, marked off in inches and centimeters 2. Beeswax/Candle- makes the thread stronger and serves as lubricant, which makes the thread easier to use in sewing buttons and other hand sewing jobs. Page | 71

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 3. Pin Cushion- a cotton-stuffed cloth cut and sewn in many different shapes to keep the pins in place. It will help you work conveniently when placed on your waist. 4. Pins- used when cutting and sewing material. Helps save time in basting. Dull-pointed and rusted pins should not be used b'coz they will destroy the fabric. Page | 72

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 5. Needles- comes in three sizes: small, medium and large. Small needles are used on light and soft material, while big needles are for rough, thick and heavy materials. Needles are used for basting, sewing buttons on and when mending torn clothes. 6. Thimble- made of either plastic or metal material w/c is used to protect the finger from being pricked by the needle when sewing. A fitted thimble will help you sew comfortably especially when you are not used in sewing with a thimble on your finger. 7. Emery Bag- used for thrusting needles and pins. They sharpens the needles ad removes rust. Page | 73

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 8. Sewing Box- serves as a utility box. Sewing tools like pins, thread, thimbles, and others can be kept in this box. Sewing boxes vary in style, such as the compartmentalized and non-compartmentalized box. A compartmentalized sewing box is practical b'coz ur tools can always be orderly arranged. 9. Sewing Machine - It is a machine used to stitch fabric and other materials together with thread. Page | 74

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 10. Tailor's Chalk - A thin piece of hard chalk used in tailoring for making temporary alteration marks on clothing. A tracing wheel is an instrument with multiple teeth on a wheel attached to a handle. The teeth can be either serrated or smooth. It is used to transfer markings from patterns onto fabric with or without tracing paper, this sewing tool also makes slotted perforations. Such markings might include pleats, darts, buttonholes, notches or placement linesfor appliques or pockets. 11. Dressmaker's carbon paper - the functions is like a carbon paper. It is available in different colors, used with tracing wheel. 12. Flat Iron - is the small appliance used to remove wrinkles from fabric 13. An ironing board - is a small, portable, foldable table with a heat resistant surface. 14. A tailor's ham or dressmaker’s ham is a tightly stuffed pillow in the shape of a ham used as a mold when pressing curves such as sleeves or collars. Page | 75

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide CHAPTER-6 Identify and use materials required based on the job Check that equipment is safe and set up in readiness for use The Occupational Safety and Health Administration regulates machinery, equipment, and mechanical power transmission apparatus that are commonly used in machine shops, maintenance operations and repair shops. Requirements for electrical safety, physical safety, and guards pertain to items such as abrasive wheel machines, belt guards on vacuum pumps, woodworking and metalworking machinery, lawnmowers, flywheels, shafts, belts, pulleys, and gears. The following procedures, information, and resources will assist managers, supervisors, and operators in carrying out their responsibilities for assuring safety through hazard identification and evaluation, safeguarding, training, and safe operation of machines and equipment. Purpose These procedures are intended to:  Create an awareness of the hazards among the workforce.  Standardize procedures for the use and care of machines and equipment.  Provide a consistent format for training employees on the proper procedures for operating and using machines and equipment.  Minimize the possibility of injury or harm.  Demonstrate compliance with safety regulations. Responsibilities Deans, Directors and Department Heads are responsible to:  Designate and empower the department‘s administrative Health and Safety Coordinator (or equivalent) and supervisors.  Actively support these procedures within individual units.  Ensure an environment where employees are encouraged to follow these procedures. Page | 76

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Supervisors are responsible to:  Implement these procedures.  Assure that staff is aware of this program, instructed on the details of implementation, and provided with training, personal protective equipment, and methods of control.  Maintain documentation and records as required in these procedures. Employees are responsible to:  Comply with these procedures and any further safety requirements set by supervisors.  Conduct assigned tasks in a safe manner, wear appropriate personal protective equipment, and obtain training and/or information prior to using machinery and equipment. EHS is responsible to:  Provide procedural guidelines, educational offerings, administrative consultations and reviews, and select technical and field services.  Exercise surveillance over health and safety issues at the University.  Advise administration of the status of programs. Training All employees will successfully complete training prior to operating or using machines and equipment. The department will identify individuals needing training. Initial training includes two components of general awareness training and operational training. General awareness training is offered online by the Environmental Health & Safety. These records are maintained by EHS and are available to the department. Page | 77

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Operational training is provided by the employing department and records are maintained by the department. Operational training should include:  A review of the department‘s Machine and Equipment Guarding Procedures.  Information and operational (hands-on) training for each machine and piece of equipment that will be used by the employee.  Pre-operational procedures.  Basic maintenance procedures.  Appropriate use of personal protective equipment. Pre-Operational Procedures PPE and Work Area Checks  Employees must locate and put on necessary and appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) for use with the machinery or equipment before beginning use.  Employees must make sure that work areas are well-lit, dry, and clean before beginning work. Sawdust, paper and oily rags are a fire hazard and can damage machinery and equipment.  Employees must change clothing or take off jewelry that could become entangled in the machinery or equipment they are to use. Machine and Equipment Checks  If a lock or tag is in place on a piece of machinery or equipment, it may not be removed and the machinery or equipment may not be used.  Only qualified personnel may install or repair equipment. Employees must notify the supervisor if machinery or equipment is in need of any type of repair.  Floor and bench-mounted machines and equipment shall be anchored or securely clamped to a firm foundation that will withstand lateral or vertical movement. Page | 78

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Guard Checks Machines and equipment with guards must meet these minimum general requirements:  Be secure - Guards are not easy to remove or alter. Guards and safety devices are made of durable material that will withstand the conditions of normal use. Guards are firmly secured to the machine.  Prevent contact - The guards prevent hands, arms, or any part of an employee‘s body or clothing from making contact with dangerous moving parts.  Protect from falling objects - The guards ensure that no objects can fall into moving parts.  Create no new hazards - If a guard creates a hazard of its own, such as shear point, a jagged edge, or an unfinished surface which can cause a laceration, then employees must not use the piece of machinery or equipment.  If a guard is defective or damaged or in any way does not meet the requirements of these procedures, employees may not use the machine and must immediately notify their supervisor. Operating Procedures  All necessary personal protective equipment is worn while the machinery or equipment is running.  Employees must always use the proper piece of machinery or equipment for the job.  Electric cables and cords must be kept clean and free from kinks.  Employees may not remove a guard for any reason while operating any piece of machinery or equipment.  If an employee is distracted or unable to focus on the work with the machinery or equipment, they must stop work with that machinery or equipment.  Upon finishing with a piece of equipment or machine, basic maintenance must be performed.  Problem equipment must be immediately reported to the supervisor so it can be repaired or replaced. Page | 79

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Select the correct component parts for the style being worked on Fashion Industry develops your understanding of which stitch and seam types to select for particular fabrics and garments. As well as the knowledge to construct a range of basic techniques to assemble entire garments using the correct components. It can be difficult to master the skills of garment assembly by reading alone: a visual demonstration of online videos, showing the steps of garment assembly for the following:  Sewing darts  Sewing front edge fastenings  Inserting zip fastenings  Attaching waistbands  Assembling and attaching simple and complex pockets  Sleeve opening construction  Assembling and attaching cuffs  Assembling and attaching collars Here is an example of basic shirt components on which you should work on: A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body. There are various types of shirt for men and women. Basic shirt is one of them. There‘s nothing more classic than a woven collared shirt. This shirt has a formal collar, a full-length opening at the front from the collar to the hem and sleeves with cuffs. Page | 80

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Different Components of a Basic Shirt Components of a Basic Shirt (भरू शर्ट के अवमव) Machines required for making a shirt  Plain (lock stitch) sewing machine  Over lock/edge neatening sewing machine  Flat lock machine  Button holing machine  Button attaching machine  Feed of the arm m/c  Accessories used for making a shirt Page | 81

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Fusible interlining Sewing thread (40/2 or 40/3 or 50/3): Matching color Label: Main label, size label, care label Button: Plastic or wooden or horn Motif Trimmings used for making a shirt  Neck board  Back board  Collar insert: Usually plastic  Hang tang  Tag ping  Price tick  Tissue paper  Poly bag  Butter flies, etc. Individual parts of basic shirt: Collar Parts of collar (कॉरय के बाग) पु िनीम अंिय अतिय सिराई धागा (40/2 मा 40/3 मा 50/3): सभरान यंग Page | 82

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide रेफर: भुख्म रेफर, आकाय रेफर, देखबार रेफर Pocket styles Pocket styles (ऩॉके र् शरै ी) Cuff styles and types Cuff styles (कप शैरी) Sleeve styles Sleeve styles (आस्तीन शरै ी) Yoke styles Page | 83

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Yoke styles (मौक शरै ी) In the first case, yoke and body back part are of one piece of cloth. In two pieces and single yoke, a single yoke is attached with the body back part.When two pieces of yoke are attached with the body back part then it is put in the third category, i.e. two pieces and double yoke. Bottom styles Bottom styles (नीचे की शैरी) Page | 84

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide CHAPTER-7 Carry out the process of sewing for dress materials and common household items of textiles Carry out alterations to meet customer requirements To provide good customer service, you need to understand who your customers are and what they want. Know your customers Gather information about as many of your customers as possible. Try to find out what your customers are buying, why they are buying and the frequency of their purchases. When trying to understand their needs, it may be useful to know details such as their lifestyle, occupation and interests. Include any potential customers who have made enquiries about your goods or service. Find out more about researching customers. Understand your customers' needs Each customer will have a different perception of what customer service means to them. If you want to provide good customer service, you should know the needs of the customer and how to fulfil those needs. Find out how your customers expect you to meet their needs. The expected level of service varies from marketplace to marketplace, industry to industry and, to some extent, from consumer group to consumer group. Research your marketplace and your target markets to find out what your customers expect of your business in your location. Follow along to make sure you understand how to get the best out of your next clothing alteration. Page | 85

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 1. If at all possible, start with an item that is your size — or very, very close to it. While it is often possible to size an item up or down, don‘t count on making adjustments by more than one or two sizes. Many items do not contain enough allowance to let out that much -– and with fabrics like velvet and satin, the original seam lines will show. 2. Garments that are much too large for the intended wearer often need to basically be taken apart and re-cut in order to hang properly on the body. This is a very labor-intensive process and it can become very expensive. 3. If you‘re body type – like most – is not the same size all over, keep in mind that it is usually easier to ―take in‖ a garment than it is to let it out. This means it‘s typically best (and least costly) to buy the size that best fits the largest part of your body and adjust only the areas that are too big. 4. When buying online (i.e. buying a vintage on eBay), search or ask for specific measurements. Every clothing label provides different information, so make sure you know how they compare to your measurements or ask for help. Page | 86

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Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 5. When choosing a tailor, go with a reputable one, not the one that quotes you the lowest rate. You get what you pay for. It isn‘t worth having something done cheaply if you subsequently have to pay someone else to fix the job or can‘t use the garment at all. 6. Many alteration shops will not give estimates for wedding dresses or other formal gowns over the phone. This is due to the complexity of these garments. Most reputable shops need to see the actual dress and determine how it currently fits your body to define EXACTLY what needs to be done and provide an accurate estimate. Don‘t attempt to describe your dress or downplay alterations over the phone and be suspicious of any quote you receive before you‘re seen wearing the dress. 7. Ask whether an appointment is required. Many independent alterations shops require appointments for fittings to avoid getting fifteen visits in one afternoon. It takes time to fit most clothing properly, and you do NOT want the person fitting you to be rushed, fumbling, and sweating profusely while a dozen less-polite people badger and harass them for not fitting you faster. Page | 88

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 8. If you know of any upcoming changes to your physical dimensions (i.e. newly pregnant, losing weight, etc.), tell whomever is making or altering your dress ASAP. Once the fabric is cut, the item generally can‘t be made drastically bigger without adding panels or gussets. 9. Have any of your under garments and bring them to ALL of your fittings. Yes, this is completely and absolutely necessary. Even if they don‘t appear to shape your body much or at all, your foundation garments WILL affect the way the clothing hangs on your figure. 10. The same goes for your shoes. It‘s best to wear the exact shoes you plan to wear with your suit or dress. If you have not obtained the perfect shoes before your first fitting, mention this to the fitter and bring a pair of shoes with a heel height that‘s similar to your ideal shoe (heel height can affect your posture and the hang of garments), or ask to have the hem marked at a later fitting. 11. If the tailor recommends against making a particular change, there‘s probably a good reason. It is typically fine to politely ask why they are recommending against something. Please keep in mind that they are professionals and are intimately familiar with garment construction, so their opinion is likely best. They might even know of a better way to make something look the way you want it to look. Just ask politely. Page | 89

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 12. During the actual fitting, don‘t move unless the person fitting you indicates otherwise. Moving during a fitting can cause the garment to be fitted unevenly (this is especially true of hems and sleeves) or cause you to be accidentally poked with a pin. If you are unsure when it‘s okay to move just ask. 13. Once you are given the all-clear, make sure to move around and test the fit. If you will be bending, dancing, walking, or sitting, make sure that you can comfortably do that without restriction. If the fit will inhibit your movement, point it out so it can be adjusted accordingly right away. Altering a garment to fit your body size and style is a wonderful way to take advantage of great clothing that may be just outside of your current shape, or it can be a great way to adjust your wardrobe to match the new you following a diet. Either way, it‘s an excellent way to get the most out of your favorite outfits. Just follow the steps above and you‘ll be prepared. Pass the stitched item to the next stage in the manufacturing process after validation Garment Production Process Garment production is an organised activity consisting of sequencial processes such as laying, marking, cutting, stitching, checking, finishing, pressing and packaging. This is a process of converting raw materials into finished products. It will be difficult to maintain the industry if production is not, up to the mark if the preproduction phase of preparation of material is not properly carried out. Page | 90

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Steps in preparation of material for production 1. Laying 2. Laying of paper pattern helps one to plan the placement of the pattern pieces in a tentative manner.  Lay large pieces first and then fit in the smaller ones  It is very economical in laying the pattern and cutting. Even a small amount of material saved in a single lay will help to bring about a large saving of money as hundreds of layers of fabric will be laid and cut simenltaneously.  When laying, the length of the garment should be parallel to the selvedge of the material. Be sure the pattern is placed in the correct grain. Fabrics drape and fall better on the lengthwise grain and also last longer.  Parts that have to be placed on the fold should be exactly on the edge of the fold.  All laying should be done on the wrongside of the material.  When laying the paper pattern, consider the design of the fabric. Care should be taken to see that the design runs in the same direction throught out the garment. All checks and strips should match the seams both lengthwise and across.60 Marking  This can be a manual or a computerised technique  The marker planner uses full size patterns and arranges them in an economical manner on marker paper.  This is a specially printed paper having symbols on it which enable the marker planner to visually control the positioning of components according to specified grain lines.  Markers produced on paper are fixed to fabric with pins, staples or on an adhesive paper which is heat sealed to the top layer of the fabric. Page | 91

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  Marker planning provides details of the spreads. In the cutting room the fabric is laid manually or a spreading machine is used to arrange fabric in lays 100 (layers) and markers for the production, any in orders planned. Here planning is done also for fusibles, linings, trims, pocketing etc.  The supervisors of marker planner plan and allocates the cut orders to various operations to be carried out in the cutting room. Cutting  This is the major operation of the cutting room when they spread and cut into garments. Of all the operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious defects.  A first planning consideration is whether the totals arrived at in the cutting room are the same as those required to maintain full production in the sewing room and subsequently the planned delivery schedule. Any cloth problems created in the cutting room can affect the output in the sewing room. Assuming all components of fabric, design and trims are acceptable and correctly planned and cut, the next stage is to extend the cutting room programme to the sewing room.  All cutting operations are carried out by straight knife cutting machines. Stitching Is done after the cut pieces are bundled according to size, colour and quantities determined by the sewing room.  The central process in the manufacture of clothing is the joining together of components.  Stitching is done as per the specification given by the buyer.  High power single needle or computerised sewing machines are used to complete the sewing operation. Fusing machines for fusing collar components, button and buttonhole, sewing machines for sewing button and buttonholes are specifically employed. Page | 92

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Checking It is realistic to assume that however well checking or quality control procedures operate within a factory there will always be a certain percentage of garments rejected for some reason or other. The best way to carryout quality checks is by  Establishing a standard as a criteria for measuring quality achievement.  Production results can be measured and compared to the planned quality standard.  Corrective measures to be carried out if there are any deviations in the plan's.  Ideally any system should detect possible deviations before they occur through forecasting. Work produced with minus defects wil produce quality products, enhance economy and productivity. Fusing and Pressing Finishing and pressing are two processes which have the greatest influence on the finished look of a garment. Fusing creates the foundation and pressing puts the final seal of quality on the garment. The basic components of presseing are:  Steam and heat are necessary to relax the fabric and make it pliable enough to be moulded by manipulation.  Pressure: when the cloth has been relaxed by steam, pressure is applied which sets the fibres into their new positions.  Drying: After the application of steam and pressure, the component or garment must be dried and cooled so that cloth can revert to its normal condition. This is done by a vaccume action which removes surplus water in the fabric and at the same time cools it. For some pressure operations hot air or infra red heating is used instead of vacume for drying; Page | 93

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Machinery used for pressing and finishing are  Hand irons with a vaccume press table  scissors press  Carousal machines  Steam dolly Packing: Most garments are packed in plastic bags, either at the end of production or when they enter the finished goods store. Products like shirts and underwears are usually bagged and boxed directly after final inspection and enter the stores in prepacked form. For these and similar types of products many automatic machines are used. Other hanging garments such as Jackets, dresses & skirts are usually bagged by manual machines, semi atuomatic machines and fully automatic machines. Some of these automatic machines bag, seal and transport in trolly; some 500 garments per hour. When boxed or hanging garment have to be transported in bulk the garment or boxes are packed into cartons which can be sealed by adhesive paper or plastic Manual and automatic machines are available for both Respond accordingly where stitched items do not meet production specification A seam is a method of joining two or more pieces of materials together by a row of stitching. The purpose of most of these seams is purely functional and can be called as constructional seams. Seams should be as flat as possible and unseen except those that are used for decorative purposes for garment design and line.When seaming then lots of defects occurred. These defects of seam are discussed below. Page | 94

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Below are some reasons which do not meet production specification and how you should respond these problems: Improper stitch balance (301 lock-stitches): The loops are seen either on the bottom side or topside of the seam. This is prominent with different coloured needle and bobbin threads and also, this defect comes where the stitch is too loose. To overcome this problem use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics, properly balance the stitch so that the needle and bobbin threads meet in the middle of the seam. Always start by checking the bobbin thread tension to make sure it is set correctly, so that the minimum thread tension is required to get a balanced stitch. Improper stitch balance (401 chain stitch): Where the loops on the bottom-side of the seam are inconsistent and do not appear uniform. To overcome this use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics, properly balance the stitch so that when the looper thread is unravelled, the needle loop lays over half way to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam. Improper stitch balance (504 over-edge stitch): Where the needle loop is not pulled up to the underside of the seam and the ―purl‖ is not on the edge of the seam we get over edge stitch. To overcome this use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics and properly balance the stitch so that when the looper thread is unravelled, the needle loop lays over half way to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam. Page | 95

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Needle cutting on knits: The needle holes appear along the stitch line that will eventually turn into a ―run‖. This defect is caused by the needle damaging the fabric as it is penetrating the seam. Make sure the proper thread size and needle type and size are being used for the fabric, the fabric has been properly stored to prevent drying out and finished properly and check with your fabric manufacturer. Open seam – seam failure – fabric: Open seam is where the stitch line is still intact but the yarns in the fabric have ruptured. Solutions are reinforcing stress points with bartacks. Make sure the bar tacks are the proper length and width for the application, make sure the patterns has been designed for proper fit, make sure the ideal seam construction is being used, and contact your fabric supplier. Open seam – seam failure – stitch: Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole in the stitch line, caused by improper stitch for application, inadequate thread strength for seam and not enough stitches per inch. The solutions are using a better quality sewing thread, the proper size thread for the application. For knit fabrics, check for ―stitch cracking‖ caused by not enough stitches per inch, improper seam width or needle spacing for application, improper stitch balance and improper thread selection. Page | 96

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Puckered seams (knits and stretch woven ): Puckered seam is where the seam does not lay flat after stitching mainly due to too much stretching of the fabric while sewing. The solutions include setting the sewing machines properly for the fabric if sewing machines are equipped with differential feed, using minimum presser foot pressure during sewing and adopting correct handling techniques. Excessive seam puckering (woven): The seam does not lay flat and smooth along the stitch line. The reasons may be ‗feed puckering‘, where the plies of fabric in the seam are not being aligned properly during sewing, ‗tension puckering‘ where the thread has been stretched and sewn into the seam causing the seam to draw back and pucker and yarn displacement or ‗structural jamming‘ caused by sewing seams with too large of thread causing displacement of yarn in the seam. To avoid this use the correct thread type and size for the fabric, (In many cases, a smaller, higher tenacity thread is required to minimize seam puckering but maintain seam strength), sew with minimum sewing tension to get a balanced stitch, make sure that machines are set up properly for the fabric being sewn and check for proper operator handling techniques. Ragged/Inconsistent edge: Over-edge or safety stitch seams are where the edge of the seam is either extremely ―ragged‖ or ―rolls‖ inside the stitch. To avoid this sharpen the sewing machine knives and change regularly, adjust the knives properly in relationship to the ―stitch tongue‖ on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width or width bite. Page | 97

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Re-stitched seams / broken stitches: This is the defect where a ―splice‖ occurs on the stitch line. This is highly objectionable in top stitching. It is caused by thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing, or cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product (i.e., stone washing). To avoid this use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions. Ensure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments. Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and sewing operation. Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques. Re-stitched seams in jeans: If there is a splice on stitch line and occurs on top stitching, it is objectionable. It may be caused by breaks or thread run out during sewing, or cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product. The solutions include using better quality sewing thread, ensuring proper machine maintenance and adjustments of sewing machine and observing sewing operators for correct material handling techniques. Re-stitched seams in jeans (जीसंी भें फपय से ससरे हुए सीभ) Broken stitches (needle cutting in jeans): When a thread is being broken one seam crosses over another seam resulting in stitch failure like bartacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam. Using the proper thread and maintaining the proper stitch balance can minimize broken stitches due to needle cutting. Use of higher performance perma core or D-core thread, using a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut, making sure the proper stitch balance is being used, using needles with the correct point and changing the needles at regular intervals on operations are the remedies. Page | 98

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Broken stitches – needle cutting in jeans (र्ू र्ी र्ांकी े - जीीसं भंे सईु कार्ना) Broken stitches (abrasion in jeans): The thread on the stitch line is broken during stone washing, sand blasting, hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches must be repaired by re stitching over the top of the stitch-line. The prevention can be done by use of higher performance perma core or D-core thread, use of larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion is occurring (e.g. waist band), ensuring that stitches balance properly, using air entangled thread in the looper due to its lower seam profile making it less susceptible to abrasion (in yoke, seat and waistband seam) and monitoring the finishing cycle. Excessive seam grin: Excessive grin is where the stitch balance is not properly adjusted (stitch too loose) and the seam opens up. To check for seam grin, apply normal seam stress across the seam and then remove the stress. If the seam remains opened, then the seam Page | 99

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide has too much ―grin through‖. To correct, readjust the sewing machine thread tensions so that the proper stitch balance is achieved. Too much tension will cause other problems including seam failures (stitch cracking), excessive thread breakage, and skipped stitches. Seam failure: Seam Slippage is where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge. This often occurs on fabrics constructed of continuous filament yarns that are very smooth and have a slick surface and in loosely constructed fabrics. To avoid consider changing the seam construction to a French seam construction, increase the seam width or width of bite, optimize the stitches per inch and contact your fabric supplier. Skipped stitches: This is where the stitch length is inconsistent, possibly appearing as double the normal stitch length; or that the threads in the stitch are not properly connected together. It is caused by the stitch forming device in the sewing machine missing the thread loop during stitch formation causing a defective stitch. On looper type stitches, this will allow the stitch to unravel causing seam failure. To avoid this use a better quality sewing thread, ensure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments, make sure that sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and sewing operation. Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques. Page | 100