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bBeea tter cook Indispensable tips from the delicious. test kitchen, plus basic knife know-how, DIY kimchi and how to make baguettes from your own sourdough starter 104 106 109 Whether you’re a novice with Join Ching He Huang to whip The Dusty Knuckle’s guide to a knife or a seasoned veteran, up a vegan kimchi with a kick, creating your own sourdough we have the advice you need ready to enhance stews, starter and making the bakery’s to ensure you’re making the cut stir-fries – and your gut health signature linseed baguettes deliciousmagazine.co.uk 101

We love hearing BETTER BAKING your questions, recipe queries and Sourdough requests via our starter tips inbox, Facebook panel and social Attempting the baguettes in media channels this month’s Technical Bake? (keep ’em coming!). If you’re new to the world of These pages are sourdough, here’s what you where you’ll find need to know to keep your golden nuggets of info from the starter in top condition delicious. food team that will make all the difference to your cooking, from hacks to quick tips and expert skills. We’d love you to join our Facebook panel. Find it at deliciousmagazine. co.uk/foodlovers 102 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Why use wholemeal flour? Help! I think I’ve killed it! be a better cook. All flours host a healthy colony Chances are you haven’t. A of wild yeast, but the bran (the sourdough starter is a hardy 3 WAYS outer layer that is still present beast and probably just needs in wholemeal flour) is especially some TLC. Keep feeding and it TO EXTEND THE LIFE rich in micro-organisms. Many should spring back to life. You OF FRESH BERRIES starter recipes begin with could try feeding with some rye wholemeal wheat or rye flour as flour for extra nutrition or adjust 1 these will get things fermenting the flour/water ratio for a more faster. Once the bubbles are liquid consistency, as this will STORE THEM RIGHT lively, you can feed your starter encourage activity. If you see Pick them over and discard any whatever flour you have to hand, a pink or black bloom on the bruised or mouldy ones. Store though if using white bread flour surface or it smells rotten, uncovered in the fridge, either or plain flour, make sure it’s however, your starter could be in single layers between sheets unbleached and, ideally, organic. harbouring nasty bacteria, in which case it’s best to toss it of kitchen paper, or loosely Is it okay to use tap water? and start over. wrapped in a clean tea towel. Yes. Chlorine and other chemicals in treated water don’t create Do I really need to discard 2 the friendliest environment, so much when feeding? but there’s no need to filter The volume will quickly build up, FREEZE THEM FRESH or use bottled water. so yes, you need to discard If you’re not planning to use the a good portion when you feed berries in 1-2 days, open-freeze Can you use metal spoons and your starter. There’s another them in a single layer on a tray, plastic containers? good reason to discard, too. The only materials to avoid are Fermentation produces lactic then bag up and freeze. Use metals such as uncoated cast acid and alcohol. While a little frozen berries in cakes, pancakes iron, copper or aluminium acid is great for flavour, too and waffles as they don’t release as these will react with the much will be overpowering and acid in the starter. Keep your inhibit yeast activity, resulting as much juice as fresh. starter in a glass jar or food-safe in flat, dense bread. Discarding plastic container that you can excess starter essentially dilutes 3 see through – this will help when the acidity, allowing the yeast it comes to tracking its rise and to flourish and keeping the PRESERVE FOR LATER fall during feeding. flavour balanced. Maceration is a great way to make past-their-best berries last What should I do with all a little longer. Slice firmer berries that discard? (strawberries, blueberries) and For the love of bread, don’t throw leave softer ones (raspberries, it away! It’s great in all sorts of blackberries) whole. Toss with baked goods (cakes, bread and a few tablespoons caster/icing batters). The trick is to adjust sugar, then cover and chill for up the flour and liquid content of to 3 days. Why does this work? your recipe accordingly. For Sugar is a natural preservative. example, if your starter has been The sugar draws water from fed with equal parts flour and the berries, creating a naturally water, for every 100g discarded sweet sauce that’s also a nifty starter you’re adding to a recipe, barrier to help prevent mould reduce both the flour and liquid in the recipe by 50g each. and bacterial growth. → PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Check out our suggestions for discarded starter in this month’s Use It Up

THE LOWDOWN Chop like a pro MAKE SWIFT WORK OF SOFT HERBS Put the chopping board on your work surface with a folded tea towel underneath to stop it slipping. Hold a chef’s knife (see opposite) with the handle up and the blade tip on the board. In your other hand, hold the herbs on the board (with your fingertips tucked under). Move the handle down, up and down in a chopping motion, keeping the tip of the blade on the board. Move the blade slowly towards your other hand, working its way over the herbs. As it reaches your knuckles, move your hand away, still keeping the remaining herbs together. When you reach the end, move the herbs into a pile with the knife, then put your other hand on top of the blade and use it to guide fine chopping, keeping the tip on the board. THE BEST WAY TO CHOP AN ONION ME AND MY KNIFE Sounds obvious, yet so many people get this building-block skill wrong. Set up the chopping THE ONES THE delicious. FOOD TEAM LOVE MOST board as with the herbs, above. With a chef’s knife, slice the onion in half from top to bottom, slice off the tips, then peel. Lay the halves flat-side down on a board and slice each lengthways from the rooty base to the tip, keeping the base intact. About 4-5 cuts will do for ‘chopped’, more for ‘finely chopped’. Rotate 90 degrees, then slice widthways, moving from the tip towards the rooty base. Hold the onion gently with your fingertips tucked under so they’re safe from the knife. Discard the rooty end. TIP Keep soft herb stalks for TOM’S CHOICE: JAPANESE chopping finely into stews and “I’m the proud owner of a beautiful Japanese curries – they add great flavour nakiri knife, which makes quick work of any when you’re frying an onion. vegetable it meets. Unlike many European knives, it has a straight, flat profile – like a cleaver but much lighter in weight.”

be a better cook. THE THREE KNIVES EVERY HOW COOK SHOULD OWN TO KEEP 1 PARING KNIFE YOUR It’s small (about 10cm KNIVES long), so it excels in tasks RAZOR requiring precision and speed. It’s SHARP a multi-purpose tool, so use it for peeling/prepping veg, liberating • Never put them in a dishwasher. chorizo from its skin, hulling Small bits of grit flying around in there strawberries, deveining prawns... will dull the blade. Wash them in the sink, then dry straightaway. 2 CHEF’S KNIFE Also known as a cook’s • Don’t use knives for tasks they’re not knife, this is the workhorse designed for. That cardboard box of the kitchen. It can lend itself to your latest delivery came in will almost any key task, be it dicing blunt the blade. meat, skinning fish, prepping veg or chopping herbs. Chef’s knives • Invest in a knife rack. If you keep sharp are usually around 20cm – large knives loose in a drawer, every time you enough to break down joints of open and close it they’ll rattle around beef but deft enough for smaller and hit each other, dulling or chipping tasks. If you’re only buying one the honed edges. type of knife, make it this one. • Stay away from glass chopping boards. 3 SERRATED KNIFE They’re nearly as hard as steel and Even the sharpest flat will blunt your knives. Softer materials blades can be stumped such as wood or plastic are best. by the simplest of tasks, such as slicing ham or bread. That’s • Get the honing habit. If you have a where the serrated knife comes sharpening steel or a whetstone, run in, making use of a toothed blade your blade along it a few times on each and sawing motion to rip its way side every day to straighten out any through ingredients that need kinks before getting stuck into your prep. a less delicate touch. Serrated blades come in all guises, from tiny tomato knives to bread knives the size of saws, but it’s good to have at least one in your rack. JULES’ CHOICE: SMALL & SERRATED JESS’S CHOICE: SMALL & NEAT “My Victorinox tomato knife. There’s “I haven’t turned a potato since culinary nothing, bar a huge squash, that this won’t school, but the curved blade of my turning cut through. It’s also a food stylist’s secret knife is second to none for delicate jobs weapon – how to get that perfect slice of such as releasing fragile pastry from tart without breaking the pastry? Gently tins or cleaning baby veg.” saw the serrated knife through the crust.” deliciousmagazine.co.uk 105

T he project CHING HE HUANG’S STORY Born in Taiwan and raised in South Ching’s Africa and the UK, Ching has DIY become a world ambassador for kimchi Chinese cooking and received an MBE in 2020 for services to the “Kimchi is a Korean culinary arts. Her food ethos is all side dish made from about using fresh, ethically sourced fermented, salted ingredients to create modern cabbage and radishes. dishes with respect for heritage. It has a spicy, sour kick. Her latest book, Asian Green, was The spiciness comes from published last year by Kyle Books. Korean red pepper flakes, Follow Ching @chinghehuang known as gochugaru, and the tang comes from the Vegan kimchi • 2 chinese cabbages fermentation. This is my • 65g sea salt flakes all-time favourite pickle Makes 1.5 litres (including the • 1 daikon/mooli, peeled and and it’s so good for your cabbage and juices) gut bacteria... The mix Hands-on time 15 min, plus sliced into julienne strips gets better over time 6-8 hours soaking and at least (matchsticks) – see Know-how and is wonderful in 3 days fermenting • 3 spring onions, trimmed and stews, stir-fries and cut into 5cm slices noodle broths. Enjoy!” Daikon/mooli is a large • 2.5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled PHOTOGRAPHS SEAN CALITZ KNOW- white radish. You can buy • 8 garlic cloves, peeled FOOD STYLING JESS MEYER HOW • 2 shallots, peeled STYLING SARAH BIRKS • 6 tbsp gochugaru (Korean red it from greengrocers, pepper flakes), or more if you like it spicier – see Know-how Ocado or redrickshaw.com. • 2 tbsp red miso paste (from Waitrose and online suppliers Gochugaru is a staple spice in – see Ching’s tip) • 2 tsp caster sugar Korean cooking. Deseeded chillies • 1 tbsp glutinous rice powder (optional; also known as are dried, then coarsely ground glutinous rice flour – see Know-how) into a powder that has smoky, • Sesame seeds, toasted in a dry pan, to serve (optional) fruity notes, plus a kick of heat. 1 Reserve 1-2 outer leaves of the It’s worth getting hold of the cabbages. Wrap them in damp kitchen paper and put in the proper stuff for kimchi. Buy it fridge until needed. Shred the remaining cabbage and put in a from Southeast Asian food shops large, deep pot or bowl. Add the salt and toss well. Add enough or online from sous-chef.co.uk cool water to cover the cabbage and stir until the salt has → and theasiancookshop.co.uk. Glutinous rice powder/flour is milled from sticky shortgrain rice. Here it acts as a sort of binder, adding body to the kimchi. Buy it from the suppliers above. Traditional kimchi uses CHING’S fish sauce, but my vegan RECIPE: © CHINGHEHUANG.COM TIP version uses red miso paste to achieve that umami taste. You could use yellow miso paste instead, but I find red miso gives a deeper flavour (check it’s gluten free if you need it to be).

be a better cook. Vegan kimchi – it’s powerful stuff deliciousmagazine.co.uk 107

be a better cook. dissolved. Put a plate on top to escape) and put the jar in a the fridge, where the kimchi keep the cabbage submerged, baking dish or large bowl to will continue to slowly ferment then leave at room temperature collect any juices that escape (see Ching’s tips for success). for 6-8 hours or overnight (stir (see Ching’s tips for success). 5 To serve, scoop out using a halfway through if possible). Leave the jar in the kitchen, out slotted spoon, transfer to a side 2 Drain the cabbage, reserving of direct sunlight, for 3 days. dish and dress with toasted the brine. Rinse the cabbage, During this time, you can press sesame seeds. It’s delicious on squeeze out any excess water, down on the kimchi daily with top of noodle soups or stews then return it to the bowl, adding the back of a wooden spoon to – or added to a stir-fry. Enjoy! the daikon/mooli and spring keep it all submerged. Per 100g 46kcals, 0.4g fat onions. Put the ginger, garlic, 4 After 3 days the kimchi will be (0.1g saturated), 1.7g protein, shallots, gochugaru, red miso ready, but it won’t achieve its full 8.1g carbs (3.7g sugars), paste and sugar in a food flavour and complexity for about 0.6g salt, 1.7g fibre processor. Add the rice powder, another 2 weeks, so I suggest if using. Pulse until the mixture you seal the jar and transfer it to For more ways to use forms a paste, then spoon the gochugaru, see Use It Up paste over the vegetables. Using tongs or gloves, mix and massage Ching’s tips for success the vegetables and paste together until well coated. Pack PROTECT YOUR space to breathe, a fermentation the mixture into a sterilised HANDS so it’s important to weight if you have 2 litre jar, leaving 3-5cm space The best way to mix leave at least 3-5cm one, placing it on top at the top (see Ching’s tips for and massage the between the kimchi, of the whole cabbage success). Add enough of the kimchi (step 2) is liquid and the top leaves to keep the reserved brine to just cover the by using your hands, of the jar and not to kimchi submerged. vegetables, pressing them down but do wear gloves pack in the kimchi This will help it stay a bit. Place the whole cabbage to protect your skin too tightly. You want packed yet loose, leaf or leaves over the top, from the chilli. to keep as much of so it ferments fully. pressing down – this should help LEAVE SPACE IN the flavourful juice FERMENT LONGER keep the kimchi submerged THE JAR in the jar as possible, FOR FLAVOUR under the brine (or see Ching’s Kimchi is ‘alive’ with too, so resist the The longer you tips for success). bacteria and needs urge to overfill it. ferment your kimchi, 3 Cover loosely (to allow air to the more complex the With fermentation, taste. It will keep in the bacteria produce the fridge for several gases that can build months, as long as up pressure in the jar it’s submerged in the and even explode if brine. After you take there isn’t space or some kimchi out the lid is too tight. of the jar, make sure A FERMENTATION the rest is submerged WEIGHT IS USEFUL in the brine or it will To weigh down the turn mouldy. kimchi, you can use NEXT MONTH Perfect pizza (no pizza oven required) 108 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Technical bake be a better cook. The Dusty deliciousmagazine.co.uk 109 Knuckle’s linseed baguettes A bakery and café with branches in north and east London, The Dusty Knuckle is lauded for helping at-risk youths into employment. It’s also celebrated for its world-class bakes, including these crunchy- on-the-outside, chewy-on-the- inside baguettes. They’re a labour of love, but all good things come to those who wait… RECIPE MAX TOBIAS, REBECCA OLIVER AND DAISY TERRY PHOTOGRAPHS MATT RUSSELL

be a better cook. THE RECIPE “Baguettes need a drier Makes 4 baguettes, 1 Mix the flours and 300g of the dough that’s been seriously each serving 2 warm water in a bowl until there well rested, so you have Hands-on time 1 hour, plus are no wet or dry bits. Scrape maximum stretch when a week to make the starter, down the bowl, cover, then set you need to shape them. 8-10 hours resting, overnight aside for 2-4 hours to allow your This takes an extra day, chilling and 1 hour proving flour to hydrate fully. but it’s worth it. In the Oven time 18 min 2 Weigh out your starter and bakery we make a bread Useful to have Digital add it with the remaining 70g porridge for the dough, but thermometer; dough scraper; warm water to the flour bowl. you could use anything baking stone Squish, squeeze and squelch you have left over – your dough. It will go weird and porridge, overnight oats, You’ll need to make slimy, but don’t worry – this is cooked bulgur wheat or normal. When it’s all combined, even cooked rice – as long MAKE your starter first, which scrape down the bowl, cover it as it has a soft consistency AHEAD and set aside for 30 minutes. (slightly reduce the salt in Add your salt to the bowl and the recipe if your porridge takes a week to be ready. mix this through, squeezing the is already salted). The dough again until the salt is baguettes are best eaten You’ll need to soak the totally incorporated. Add the straight from the oven, porridge and soaked linseeds dipped in a mixture of linseeds in water for at least and work these into the dough butter, Boursin soft cheese mix – you want to give this a and extra salt.” 4 hours (or up to 48 hours) good 8 minutes. Use a scraper or your hands to get under the MAX TOBIAS, REBECCA OLIVER before you plan to make the dough and lift it up, then lightly AND DAISY TERRY, CO-FOUNDERS, oil the inside of the bowl. Cover THE DUSTY KNUCKLE BAKERY bread. Once soaked, drain the the bowl with a lid or a clean tea towel and leave it somewhere 110 deliciousmagazine.co.uk seeds, then weigh out the warm for 1 hour. Take a mental picture of how much the dough amount you need. fills the bowl – by the end, you want it to have almost doubled. Water temperature 3 For the next 4 hours you are going to give the dough a ‘fold’ KNOW- is the easiest tool every hour. This just means HOW grabbing the edge of the dough with a wet hand [A], stretching a baker has to help it up as high as it will go and folding it over on itself, working them influence the speed of around the bowl as many times as the dough will let you – until it fermentation in the dough. In feels tight and as if it might tear. Over 4 hours, this means you’ll winter, use warm water and try have given the dough 3 folds. With each fold, you should be to keep your dough in a warm starting to see more life in the dough. This process is what we place; in summer, use cold water call the bulk fermentation and it’s where the magic is happening. and keep your dough out of the 4 After the last fold, let the dough rest for a final 30(ish) sun. As a rough guideline, we minutes. You should have a shiny, coherent, strong dough aim for a dough temperature of 23-25°C and our working room temperature is normally around 19°C. • 100g wholemeal flour • 375g strong white bread flour, plus extra to dust • 370g warm water (see Know-how) • 135g stiff starter (see p113) • 15g fine sea salt • 100g cooked porridge, overnight oats, cooked bulgur wheat or cooked rice (see introduction, left) • 100g soaked golden or brown linseeds (see Make Ahead) • Vegetable oil for greasing • Rice flour to dust

that wobbles when you carefully A B prod it. If it feels wet and sticky, C D give it another fold and leave it E F for a further 30 minutes. If it feels strong, just not that lively, leave out the extra fold but still give it more resting time. This is the fermentation period, and you can’t really rush it – just let it do its thing. You’ll get a feel for this sweet spot the more you bake. Put the dough in the fridge overnight. This will help develop the flavour, let it rest and get lovely and strong. (It can stay in the fridge for up to 24 hours.) 5 The next day, gently tip the dough out onto a flour-dusted worktop and, without disturbing it much, cut it into 4 quarters – use a dough scraper to do this if you have one. With each quarter of dough, fold the points to the centre [B] to make a very rough, long rectangle. You need to be gentle, but if you’re slow and too careful the dough will stick to your fingers and it’ll quickly get stressful. Flip the dough so the seams are facing down and the top is smooth, then let it rest for 30 minutes to come up to room temperature [C]. 6 Now flip the dough back over again so the seams are facing up – you want the rectangle to be oriented so the longest side is horizontal in front of you. Grab the top edge and fold it into the middle of the dough, then grab the bottom edge and fold it over to meet the new top edge. Gently seal along this length with your thumbs [E]. Roll the dough over so the seam is on the bottom. Next, cup both hands over the dough, your fingers resting on the work surface at the top and the heel of your hand on the surface at the bottom. Roll the dough, working your hands away from each other, so you’re lengthening the baguette [F]. →

The baguettes are Push your hands down harder best eaten straight as you reach the ends so you from the oven, dipped get that lovely pointed shape. in a mix of butter, The trick is not to go over it Boursin soft cheese too many times – once is ideal. and extra salt 7 Heavily dust a tea towel with rice flour and lay it in a shallow baking tray or something of a similar shape so it just hangs over one side and there’s plenty left on the other. Lay your first baguette seam-side down along the edge of the tray with a little overhand, so the side supports it. Pull a fold of the tea towel up around it so it’s cradled on both sides. Put another baguette alongside and repeat. Do this for all 4 baguettes, nestling them against each other, then let them rest for 1 hour. 8 Heat your oven to 220°C fan/ gas 9 or as hot as it will go, and boil a kettle. Put a baking tin in the bottom of your oven and a baking sheet (or a baking stone, if you have one) on the middle shelf to heat up. Cut 4 slightly larger than baguette-size pieces of baking paper and flip out the baguettes onto them with the seams facing up. These will act as a score – the loaf will open through the seam. The outcome is quite a rustic look, far from your traditional French stick. 9 Working as quickly as you can, open the oven, take out your hot baking sheet or stone and use the baking paper strips as little hammocks to transfer each baguette onto the baking sheet/ stone. Pour some boiling water into the baking tin at the bottom and put the baguettes in the middle of the oven. Bake for 18 minutes or until lovely and dark. Per ½ baguette 317kcals, 6.2g fat (0.8g saturated), 10.1g protein, 52g carbs (0.5g sugars), 1.9g salt, 6.3g fibre For more ways to use linseeds, see Use It Up

be a better cook. MAKE A STIFF STARTER IN 7 DAYS We keep our starter stiff (nicknaming it ‘stiffy’ as a joke – and the name seems to have stuck). When we realised it cleaned the mixer itself while it was mixing, there was no going back. A stiff starter has other benefits, too: it ferments more slowly, so it doesn’t go as wild if the temperature changes. It also gives you a more subtle, sour flavour without too much acidic tang. Smell and feel are the best ways to tell if your starter is on point. A happy starter will be bouncy and light. When you take the lid off it should smell acidic, but in a good way. We feed our starter with strong white bread flour, but you can use almost any flour – be consistent while you get the hang of it. Try wholewheat to begin with as the extra bran is nutritious and delicious for the bacteria, and helps to get things going. Makes 1 healthy sourdough with 200g strong white bread starter flour and 150g water. This may Hands-on time about 20 min, be harder to mix in the jar – you plus 7 days fermenting can always scoop it out and mix Specialist kit Digital scales; it by hand in a bowl. jam jar with a loose-fitting (not airtight) lid DAY 5 Discard 200g (leaving you with 150g) and feed the Start a discard pot for remaining starter with 180g What now with strong white bread flour and the starter? KNOW- any starter you need 120g water. HOW You have two options for Leave alone for DAY 6 maintaining your starter: to throw away and keep 1 Put your starter in the DAY 7 Your starter is now a fridge and give it a feed it in the fridge. You can make week old! It should grow in size (DAY 5 instructions) once a slowly over the day, and when week. You’ll need to take it out all sorts of good things with you come to feed it (see right), of the fridge 3 days before you it should have grown noticeably want to make bread, feeding it starter discard – see this in the jar. It should be smelling daily to bring it back to life. acidic and delicious. You are 2 Keep the starter out of the month’s Use It Up for ideas. now ready to make bread. fridge, but feed it daily (DAY 5 instructions). You’ll need to bake DAY 1 Mix 40g wholewheat flour regularly, every day or whenever and 40g water in a clean jam jar you want! If you miss a feed, until there are no dry bits. Put don’t panic – give it a few days of on the lid. Remember the rules feeding to get it back to normal. around temperature here, and Find more starter-care tips in use the water temperature to Be A Better Cook counter your room temperature (see recipe Know-how). Recipe taken from The Dusty Knuckle: DAYS 2 AND 3 Repeat DAY 1 Seriously Good Bread, both days, adding 40g Knockout Sandwiches wholewheat flour and 40g water. and Everything In By the end of DAY 3 you will Between by Max Tobias, have 240g starter in your jar. Rebecca Oliver and Daisy Terry (Quadrille £20) DAY 4 You should start seeing some bubbles appear and there deliciousmagazine.co.uk 113 should be a nice yogurty, slightly acidic smell. Now to make the starter stiff. Discard all but 1 tbsp starter (see Know-how) and feed the remaining starter

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travel. Bite-size break Andalusia’s hidden heart It’s right in the middle of Spain’s biggest, most famous region, but too many people drive straight through. A shame, because they’re missing hill-clinging white villages topped with Moorish castles, Spain’s best olive oil and goat’s cheese, intriguing organic wines – and top-quality, er, beef? Oh yes indeed. Welcome to the peaceful sierras of Subbética MOUNTAIN HIGHS A hiker’s view of the town of Zuheros from Bailón Gorge deliciousmagazine.co.uk 115

CLOCKWISE THE WORLD’S BEST OLIVE OIL local food and produce. Pick up you’ve negotiated the vertiginous FROM ABOVE Once you hit hilly Subbética on mountain honey or local aniseed hairpin bends near Cabra up to Casa Olea’s the drive north from Malaga, it’s liqueur in their shop, and try the Vaquena (vaquena.com), you’ll olive groves horizon-to-horizon olive trees – bargain seven-course tasting menu know you’ve arrived somewhere. and artichoke if you don’t come home with (€35pp including a wine flight) for & oloroso rice; some oil, you’re a disgrace to food a tour of the area’s larder. It starts Vaquena is on a smallholding Priego de lovers. The best oil can be found with a selection of local goat’s farming Andalusian Black cattle Córdoba; in the town of Priego de Córdoba, cheeses, and highlights include and, with the cow shed next door, saffron- where one brand, Rincón de la aubergine chips (courgette chips food miles aren’t an issue. The poached Subbética, is ranked the world’s are so last year), smooth partridge 60-day-aged meat could hold its quince with best (wboo.org). After you’ve pâté with tomato chutney, and own against the most garlanded goat’s cheese gawped at Priego’s baroque juicy seared secreto – a small, UK steakhouse (at a third of the mousse at church interiors (a legacy of its thick cut from the pig’s shoulder. price) and the skin-on homemade Zuhayra; long-ago silk wealth), buy oil You also get a dainty spoonful of chips are a trusty sidekick. The tapas platter in specialist shop Tierra Mia remojón de naranja. Google entrecôte, cooked rare with a at Casa Olea; (2 Calle Obispo Cavallero). translates this as ‘soaked orange’ glass of Dulas red from a local a bird’s-eye but it’s a mightily refreshing self-certified organic winery, is view of Priego; WHITE TOWNS, BROWN GOATS combo of salt cod, tuna, chopped as conversation-stopping as the fusion food The queen of Subbética’s many egg, onion and, of course, orange. mountain views. Puddings are at Japanish; a attractive white villages and Get a taste for it and you can good too: try Vaquena’s elegant goat herder on towns is Zuheros, with its graduate to a jumbo portion take on beige classic leche frita, the Via Verde, Moorish castle (this region was at Hotel Caserío de Iznájar a sort of deep-fried thick custard. a former on the frontier between Muslim (hoteliznajar.com), further south railway line and Catholic-ruled Spain). on Andalusia’s biggest reservoir. NEW KIDS ON THE BLOQUE Zuhayra (zercahoteles.com/ Rural Andalusia is the last place hotel-zuhayra) is a small hotel in A VIEW WITH A MOO you might expect to find a trendy the village run by two agreeable ‘Destination restaurant’ may be scalable restaurant concept, brothers with a commitment to an overused phrase, but when but Lucena, Subbética’s biggest town, has two. Territorio

travel. WORDS: LES DUNN. PHOTOGRAPHS: TIM MURRAY-WALKER, LES DUNN, CARLOSGBFOTOGRAFIA.COM (territoriofoodmarket.com) is Casa Olea does olive oil tastings, GETTING THERE owned by a well travelled making its own version from trees delicious. travelled with Sunvil Spanish/South American couple that are up to 500 years old. “You (sunvil.co.uk), which offers and serves perfectly cooked get less oil from them but it’s the seven nights in Andalusia from fusion delights on its colourfully best stuff,” says Tim. £732pp, with flights from mural-covered terrace, such as Gatwick to Malaga, car rental, chicken-and-Peruvian-pepper WHEN YOU’RE NOT EATING two nights at Hotel Caserío croquetas and pulled Ibérico AND DRINKING… de Iznájar, three at Zuhayra pork tacos. Its sister restaurant Hire bikes (centrocicloturista Rural Hotel and two at Casa Japanish (japanishtapas.com) subbetica.com) and weave past Olea, all B&B (the second B melds tapas with Japanese street goat herders on the lofty Via at all places features local food and offers hits such as bull’s Verde del Aceite (viasverdes. jams and cheeses, homemade tail gyozas, and croquetas with com). Hike Bailón gorge from cakes, pan con tomate and jamón and dashi. Zuheros and, from Casa Olea, other rural scrumminess). walk through the olive groves to Another forward-looking couple, three Moorish watchtowers – JULY AVERAGES Tim and Claire from the UK, you’ll likely find fossils underfoot. • HIGH TEMP: 33°C converted Casa Olea (casaolea. Hire paddleboards (alua.es) for • LOW TEMP: 19°C com) from a remote rundown a peaceful afternoon on Iznájar’s • RAINY DAYS: 0 farmhouse into the rural hotel reservoir, or visit Córdoba and • SUNNY DAYS: 31 of dreams. Cook Claire uses its famous Mosque-Cathedral Andalusian goodies in innovative (mezquita-catedralecordoba.es). FOR MORE INFORMATION ways. Her patatas bravas include a destinosubbetica.es/en chutney made from local mangoes, For something a little more while her olive oil and orange cake low-key, the stargazing at Casa NEXT MONTH is a thing of repeat-guest rapture. Olea is dark-sky-dramatic – as The summer charms of Wines and fortifieds from the is navel-gazing poolside, listening Malmö in Sweden small organic Róbles winery to fulsome birdsong… It gets hot deserve close attention, and here in summer. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 117

TB YOUR PERFECT *FOR FULL INFORMATION AND TS&CS, PLEASE GO TO DELICIOUS.TRIPSMITHS.COMHOTEL GETAWAY RAVEL CLU delicious. EXCLUSIVE OFFER ALL TRIPS ARE FINANCIALLY BONDED* Treat yourself to a short stay at one of the UK’s best hotels with these tempting offers from the delicious.Travel Club G reat locations, superb amenities, plenty of atmosphere – and fab food. That last one is no doubt a big part of the attraction when you travel. And with the delicious. Travel Club, you’re promised fantastic getaways with an emphasis on brilliant food and superior dining opportunities. All our trips are arranged by Tripsmiths, which specialises in creating trips you don’t find anywhere else. Make your dream short break a reality this year...

delicious. exclusive offers. BOOK YOUR NEXT SHORT BREAK WITH THE NEW delicious. TRAVEL CLUB... UNIQUE ADVENTURES TAILORED FOR DISCERNING FOOD LOVERS LIKE YOU A SEASIDE STAY AT PRICE From £118pp BOURNEMOUTH BEACH’S for two nights THE HERMITAGE HOTEL DATES Stays until 30 November 2022, subject Fantastically located in front of the to availability; blackout pier at Bournemouth and minutes dates apply. Price based on from the beach, this historic hotel midweek stay in November. offers stunning views. Inside, WHAT’S INCLUDED Two you’ll find elegant, comfortable nights in a standard double rooms. Step outside to enjoy miles of or twin room with full award-winning beaches and more than English breakfast, dinner 2,000 acres of beautiful parks and on the first night in Hardy’s gardens, or take a short drive to explore Restaurant, plus coffee and the magnificent Jurassic Coast. cake on arrival hermitage-hotel.co.uk PRICE From £225pp A RELAXED CITY BREAK for two nights AT THE RICHMOND HILL DATES Stays until 31 HOTEL IN SURREY January 2023, subject to availability; blackout This stunning 18th-century London dates apply townhouse is just moments from WHAT’S INCLUDED Two Royal Richmond Park – close to the nights in a Georgian Deluxe city, but far enough to feel as if you’re room with breakfast, a world away. You could hire a bike afternoon tea on the to explore the wonderful park, walk day of your arrival, and along the Thames, head into historic a dinner allocation of Richmond to sample its upmarket £35pp (food only) on the restaurants, visit nearby Kew Gardens second night or opt for a sundowner on the terrace. richmondhill-hotel.co.uk PRICE From £139pp for two nights A COUNTRYSIDE RETREAT DATES Book by 31 October IN SOUTH YORKSHIRE AT 2022 for stays until 30 April MOSBOROUGH HALL HOTEL 2023, Sunday to Thursday only, subject to availability; With cosy rooms, an intimate blackout dates apply restaurant and a newly extended bar WHAT’S INCLUDED Two area, Mosborough Hall Hotel has nights in a standard double everything you need for a relaxing or twin room with full English off-peak break in the beautiful South breakfast, seven-course Yorkshire countryside. You’ll enjoy a tasting menu with wine, noon dinner on your first night at the hotel’s checkout, complimentary excellent Darcy’s Restaurant, with Wi-Fi and parking a seven-course tasting menu from head chef Alex Fretwell and his team. mosboroughhall.co.uk TO FIND OUT MORE AND BOOK YOUR HOTEL BREAK go to delicious.tripsmiths.com deliciousmagazine.co.uk 119

discoveries The best stuff from producers big and small, taste-tested for you Pots of gold Soft launch Perfect to pep up Two Bees’ single-source honeys are a taste adventure, thanks to a picnic, these sweet citrus notes from Mexico, sour fizzy drinks earthy chocolate from Australia with a Japanese or complex savouriness from aesthetic are the Zambian lowlands – try that made in last one drizzled over cured Manchester. meat or spicy pizza. Inspired by chuhai, a popular £5.99 for 250g or £35.94 for sour-boozy six mixed jars, twobees.buzz tipple in Japan, the low-sugar softies come in cherry, peach and lemon flavours, plus our favourite, apple. They’re only available online, in Yo! Sushi restaurants and at the odd independent, but it’s worth looking out for them. Chu Lo, £29.99 for 12 x 330ml cans, chu-lo.com

in the know. HAVE A BALL On paper, little balls of lemon, white chocolate and ‘craft’ Danish liquorice might seem like a betrayal of Bertie Bassett – and they look a bit like new potatoes. Get past all that, though, and these nuggets of chewy moreishness are the sweet treat of the season. Made by liquorice obsessive Johan Bülow, this is a limited-edition flavour. Hurry along now… Lakrids by Bülow Mellow Yellow, £18 for 295g, lakridsbybulow.co.uk GET THE ABBA ON… Conjure up that Greek holiday feeling with a meze spread of restaurant-quality dishes to cook at home, designed by Greek cook and MasterChef winner Irini Tzortzoglou for The Cookaway. The kits are a step up from the basics, and delicious. digital editor Fiona found hers “brimming with beautiful, authentic ingredients” plus clear instructions and useful tips. Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions for the chance to win a kit for four, or crack open a bottle of assyrtiko and order a box direct. Greek meze experience, from £35, thecookaway.com Hot on the shelves Our pick of the best new products and ingredients hitting the supermarkets this summer for you to add to your shopping list TESTERS: LES DUNN, PHOEBE STONE, KAREN BARNES, FIONA LOGAN BACK IN SEASON PICNIC PICK GRAIN EVENT Caulishoots look like their name: tiny Co-op has boosted its sausage rolls for Available for summer only, this spicy mix cauliflower heads on long stems. The summer with the subtly fruity, spicy of wholegrains, beans and red quinoa is taste is slightly milder and creamier kick of Italian-style ’nduja, the hot both worthily healthy and irresponsibly than traditional cauliflower, and there’s enjoyable. Crack in a couple of eggs to no prep or waste – you eat the whole pepper and sausage spread. Also in its poach while warming the grains through thing. Apart from the sustainability summer range: a chutney-topped creds, caulishoots are high in fibre and with the lid on for a quick lunch. B vitamins, vitamin C and folate. Win! cheddar ploughman’s quiche (£3.50 for Merchant Gourmet Fiery Jamaican-style 400g) with nuggets of roasted tomato. £2 for 250g, Ocado Co-op Irresistible ’Nduja Sausage Rolls, Grains & Pulses, £2 for 250g, Morrisons and Ocado £3 for 8 (144g) deliciousmagazine.co.uk 121

A true one- woman-band, Sarah Churchill makes her fabulous Tropical Marmalade herself Champion producers Here comes the sun Fresh, fruity and brimming with unexpected flavour, The Artisan Kitchen’s Tropical Marmalade transports the taste buds to far-flung destinations

in the know.  A longing for sunshine is at the heart maslin pans. “It’s a simple process that creates of Sarah Churchill’s award-winning a mouthwatering fruit marmalade,” she says. Tropical Marmalade. The Artisan Kitchen’s vibrant citrus concoction EYES ON THE PRIZE is an expression of its founder’s desire to get away Several of The Artisan Kitchen’s marmalades have during lockdown in Gloucester. “I so missed holidays earned stars in the Great Taste awards, but the in the sun during the pandemic,” says Sarah. “This Tropical Marmalade is something special – a marmalade was the result of dreaming of travelling complex, sweet and tart preserve that captures the to exotic and sunnier places.” essence of tropical fruit. “All the effort of making this Marmalade is made by time-worn methods with marmalade in small batches has been worth it to just a few simple ingredients, so it’s no mean feat create such fabulous flavours,” said one awards judge, to create a recipe that stands out among the scores who loved the “texture and pop of the fleshy pieces”. of others on shop shelves. But The Another added: “It’s an exciting, Artisan Kitchen regularly rises to lively marmalade that allows the the challenge. “I love developing new “It’s a simple fruit to shine.” Hardly surprising, products, and I strive to elevate process that then, that this wonderful tropical flavours to a new level,” says Sarah. preserve was awarded three stars as RECIPE FOR SUCCESS creates a well as earning Great Taste’s Golden Sarah says the secret to a superior mouthwatering Fork for the South West. marmalade is in the quality and fruit SMALL COMPANY, BIG FUTURE quantity of the raw ingredients. marmalade” As the name on the label suggests, “I take care to choose and use the Sarah’s marmalade is a true artisan finest, freshest fruit, as that’s product – she produces each batch the most important aspect of the of 11 jars all by herself. “I wish production. I also make sure my marmalade has an I could clone myself sometimes,” she admits. exceptionally high fruit content and a generous The way business is going, Sarah will soon need amount of peel that’s really soft,” she says. a double – online orders have soared over the past Sarah’s Tropical Marmalade is packed with fresh two years. It’s a busy life, but Sarah wouldn’t have it Moro blood oranges, pink grapefruit, limes, lemons, any other way: “I love everything about The Artisan delicious. pineapple and passion fruit. She cuts up and juices Kitchen. The business never ceases to surprise is delighted to support the the fruit by hand, then soaks the rind and fruit pieces me, even after 10 years.” Great Taste Awards in the juice for 24 hours. The following day, she cooks Tropical Marmalade, £6.99 for 200g, the fruit with sugar in traditional, heavy copper theartisankitchen.co.uk WORDS: LYNDA SEARBY. PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD FAULKS, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES How to enjoy Stir a spoonful of The Artisan Kitchen Tropical Marmalade into coconut yogurt or dollop it on top of porridge or rice pudding for a simple treat. Alternatively, try it in one of these desserts – find the recipes at deliciousmagazine.co.uk Marmalade and coconut Steamed marmalade Coconut and lime bakewell tart pudding cheesecake The tropical flavours of the Give the old-school Top with a little warmed marmalade are a perfect foil favourite a tropical twist marmalade in place of the for the coconut passion fruit caramel deliciousmagazine.co.uk 123

the knowledge. July ESSENTIAL INFO ABOUT Recipe index OUR RECIPES Our symbols explained • Glazed roast salmon with pickled You can freeze all or most cucumber salsa 42 of the recipe. Unless stated otherwise, freeze the finished dish • Kimchi fried rice with a fried for up to 3 months. Defrost and heat until piping hot throughout. egg 99 Vegetarian Vegan • Korean-style barbecue chicken wings Gluten free Dairy free Recipes with the above symbols with charred potato salad 80 are suitable for special diets provided you choose appropriate • Pomegranate-glazed aubergines and free-from ingredients – check the label. Other recipes can easily be courgette tabbouleh 78 adapted for special diets – see our Know-how and Easy Swaps tips. • Pork and corn tacos 81 Standard kit • Sardine and tomato panzanella 84 Our recipes assume cooks will have a food processor/blender/stick • Slow-cooked lamb shoulder, beetroot blender, an electric stand mixer/ hand mixer and a selection of pans, and carrots with mint and garlic tins and casseroles, as well as compostable baking paper and vinaigrette 46 kitchen paper. We give alternative methods for combining ingredients 78 • Spiced venison burger 36 if possible, and specify the size of dish/tin needed if it’s relevant. • Tandoori paneer skewers with yogurt We also think a digital probe thermometer is helpful for cooking cucumber salad 78 meat, making preserves and so on. • Three-cheese pides with egg and Prep and cooking times All our timings include prep. salsa verde 33 Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring, assembling, SWEET THINGS frying or grilling. Oven/simmering time is when you STARTERS, SIDES AND NIBBLES • Alphonso mango cheesecake 62 can leave the dish unattended in the oven or on the hob. • Camembert and roasted grape • American-style deep-dish blueberry Nutritional information picnic loaf 64 and peach pie 56 Recipes are analysed for nutritional content by an expert nutritionist. • Courgette, chard, basil, parsley • Berry tiramisu with limoncello and Calculations may vary, depending on your choice of ingredients, and and goat’s cheese pasties 20 pistachios 60 include listed ingredients only. • Courgettes stuffed with feta, crème • Boozy raspberry summer mess 58 Our suppliers Fresh eggs for our recipe-testing fraîche, anchovy, chilli and fried • Buttermilk lemon scones 40 are supplied by Clarence Court (clarencecourt.co.uk); meat is from breadcrumbs 46 • Chetna’s cherry, almond and honey The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk) • Istanbul-style fish sandwiches 82 upside-down cake 88 Prices These are checked and correct at • Lettuce and celery salad with blue • Raspberry cream maritozzi the time of going to press. cheese dressing 28 buns 58 Oven temperatures We give fan oven and gas mark • Pickled beetroot, almonds, anchovies • Rhubarb and pistachio syrup cake 48 temperatures in our recipes. For conventional ovens without a fan, and lovage mayonnaise 22 • Strawberry ice cream shortcake 56 add 20°C to the fan temperature. • Raised pork, chicken and parsley pie 24 • Sizzling chilli and lime prawns OTHER with fried courgettes 9 • Crispy shallots 33 • Smoked mackerel scotch eggs 26 • Montgomery cocktail 26 • Pide dough 34 MAIN COURSES • Sourdough starter 113 • Borsch 52 • Strawberry and geranium cordial • Burnt aubergine soup with rice 27 and herbs 33 • The Dusty Knuckle’s linseed baguettes • Galette of courgette with manouri 110 cheese and chilli-honey dressing 32 • Vegan kimchi 106 OUR GENERAL TERMS & CONDITIONS 1. All information forms part of the terms and conditions. 2. Competitions open to UK residents aged 18 and over, except employees (and their families) of Eye to Eye Media Ltd or any other associated company. 3. Prizes are as offered. No cash alternatives. Subject to availability. 4. To enter, unless otherwise stated, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ promotions and follow the instructions. No purchase necessary. One entry per household. 5. Unless specified otherwise, entry to competitions ends 31 July 2022. 6. Entries received after the closing date will not be considered. 7. No responsibility is taken for entries lost or delayed. 8. Winners will be selected by an independent panel. The judges’ decision is final: no correspondence will be entered into. 9. Winners will be notified directly and their names listed at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions. 10. Winners agree to take part in publicity. 11. Information given will not be supplied to a third party. 12. Eye to Eye Media Ltd reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions, or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion, if deemed necessary in its opinion. 124 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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Take five There are prizes to be won and fun to be had with Hugh Thompson’s delicious. brain teasers THE FOOD QUIZ IT’S WHAT COFFEE, CAKE AND SOFAS WERE MADE FOR 1 What addition makes 6 Which famous chef is a buck rarebit different said to have invented to a welsh rarebit? the chef’s hat (toque) a) Anchovies a) François Vatel b) Fried or poached egg b) Marie-Antoine Carème c) Bacon c) Auguste Escoffier d) Kidneys d) Paul Bocuse PRIZE CROSSWORD NO. 42 Complete the puzzle, take a picture and email it to CRYPTIC CLUE SET BY LES DUNN. *FOR TS&CS, SEE P1242 Whose rations were: 7 Cambozola cheese [email protected] for a chance to win* biscuit, rum, jam, comes from? sugar, coffee, dried meat, a) Italy b) Holland CROSSWORD PRIZE condensed milk, tea, salt, Win a huge stash of Mr Organic mustard, pepper? c) France d) Germany 100% plant-based storecupboard a) Napoleon Bonaparte’s staples, including Mr Organic Extra army (1811) 8 How did the gilda, a Virgin Olive Oil, Balsamic Vinegar b) British Navy (1903) Basque pintxo (tapa) of Modena, Basilico Pasta Sauce, c) Captain Scott’s Polar of a manzanilla olive, Artichoke Antipasti and more. Expedition (1911) pickled chilli (guindilla) For more info and planet-friendly d) Edmund Hillary’s Everest and anchovy on a cocktail recipe ideas visit mr-organic.com Expedition (1953) stick get its name? a) From a film character Across 3 What are the two b) It’s Basque for guindilla classic grape c) It means ‘skewer’ 1 Extremely hungry – do not read this magazine in this state (8) varieties used in the d) It was invented by 7 Samuel _____: a famous Boston beer (5) Burgundy wine region? Ernesto Gilda 8 Vinegary stew and also a spice mix, often made with chipotle chillies (5) 9 Mushroom or fungus family with many poisonous varieties (6) 4 Tomatoes, almonds, 9 Which of these has 10 Spongy white lining of citrus fruit rinds (4) garlic, olive oil, roast an ancient association 12 Kiln specially designed for drying hops (4) peppers and stale bread with the marathon? 14 Invented in 1908, this is a handy way to make a favourite hot drink (3,3) are used to make... a) Bay leaves 17 _____ Inglese: Italian layered dessert similar to trifle (5) a) Tarator sauce b) Peanuts 18 Enlarged plant structure used to store nutrients (potatoes, yams) (5) b) Pico de gallo c) Fennel 19 Nutritious silver fish – often come in a tin (8) c) Gribiche sauce d) Figs d) Romesco sauce Down 10 Smoked puffin is 5 Where was sugar a delicacy in which 1 Lean steak cut from the abdominal region of a cow (5) cane first cultivated? country or region? 2 Grape known for its floral aromas, used for famous sweet wines (6) a) Caribbean a) Finland 3 Generic name for shredded cabbage in mayo (4) b) India b) Greenland 4 Slender Japanese mushroom that grows in clusters (5) c) New Guinea c) Lapland 5 Soft buns filled with cream (in the magazine) – a speciality from Rome (9) d) Philippines d) Iceland 6 Vibrant red – and not too hot – Korean chilli pepper flakes (9) e) Norway 11 Wrote her best-selling Book of Household Management in 1861 (6) 13 Colour once made from cuttlefish ink and given their Latin name (5) 15 Rum _____: individual yeast-risen cakes soaked in a rum syrup. Yum! (5) 16 Tie fat around lean meat or poultry when roasting (4) ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD NO. 40: ACROSS 1 Apricots 7 Nduja 8 Pisco 9 Raised 10 Germ 12 Ceps 14 Damper 17 Torta 18 Manna 19 Dubonnet DOWN 1 Aduki 2 Reamer 3 Cape 4 Taste 5 Entrecote 6 Cod mornay 11 Gammon 13 Perdu 15 Pinot 16 Taco

puzzles. Spice world Last suppers £50 Match the mix to the country/region Who ate what at the end? GIFT CARD 1) Jerk 6) Panch phoron 1) French onion soup CRYPTIC CLUE 2) Adobo 7) Five spice 2) Boiled eggs, bacon, toast, OJ, coffee 3) Baharat 8) Mixed spice 3) Grilled cheese sandwich WIN A £50 CO-OP GIFT CARD 4) Quatre épices 9) Dukkah 4) Ice cream and chocolate cookies 5) Berbère 10) Ras el hanout 5) Apple pie, glass of milk For your chance to win 6) Corned beef sandwich £50 to spend in store, CHOOSE FROM: a) Japan solve the cryptic clue b) Ethiopia c) Middle East CHOOSE FROM: a) Martin Luther King on the magazine spine, d) France e) Spain/Latin America b) James Dean c) John Lennon then email your answer f) Egypt g) China h) Italy d) Julia Child e) Frank Sinatra i) Jamaica j) Turkey f) Princess Diana g) Marie Antoinette with your name, full k) Indian subcontinent h) Elvis Presley i) John F Kennedy UK address and phone l) North Africa m) UK j) Marilyn Monroe number to info@ ANSWERS Food Quiz: 1) b 2) b 3) Pinot noir and chardonnay 4) d 5) c (from New Guinea it was transported to India c8,000 years ago, deliciousmagazine.co.uk then Persia. It reached England in c.1069AD during the crusades but was very rare. Sugar production increased only after Columbus by 31 July 2022*. Solution took plants to the Caribbean in the 15th century) 6) b (Carème –1784-1833 – added cardboard to the stocking cap that was in current use. Not long after, they were made white for hygiene purposes) 7) d (it was invented in the 1970s) 8) a (it was created in 1948 in San to May’s clue: Sebastian, Spain and named after Rita Hayworth’s character Gilda in the eponymous film) 9) c (Marathon, where the Greeks defeated gooseberry fool the Persians was so called because fennel grew there – ‘marathos’ is Greek for fennel. Pheidippides ran to Athens with news of the victory, inspiring the 26.2 mile race. 10) d (they’re caught in nets –sky fishing – but numbers are limited to protect the species) Spice world 1) i 2) e 3) c 4) d 5) b 6) k 7) g 8) m 9) f (or c) 10) l Last suppers 1) d 2) i 3) e 4) h 5) b 6) c EYE TO EYE MEDIA LTD, BARLEY MOW CENTRE, 10 BARLEY MOW PASSAGE, CHISWICK, LONDON W4 4PH deliciousmagazine.co.uk FOR SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 01858 438424 Karen Barnes Editorial director, delicious. ART DESK FOOD DESK EYE TO EYE MEDIA Jocelyn Bowerman Art director, delicious. Tom Shingler Head of food Seamus Geoghegan Managing director Jules Mercer Acting head of food [email protected] Naomi Lowe Head of design, Jess Meyer Acting deputy food editor Eye to Eye Media Adrienne Moyce Publishing director (maternity cover) [email protected] Helen Bull Art director, Eye to Eye Media Sophie Pryn Assistant food editor Jo Sandilands Consultant editorial director Hannah Moyce Shoot production manager EDITORIAL DESK [email protected] Jake Hopkins Production director [email protected] Darren Blundy Finance director Les Dunn Managing editor, delicious. Daisy Hogg, Amanda James, [email protected] Hugh Thompson Projects editor Sue McMahon Recipe testers Adam Wright Finance manager 01733 373135 Phoebe Stone Feature writer [email protected] Fiona Hunter Nutritionist and co-ordinator, delicious. ADVERTISING SALES MARKETING & PROMOTIONS Jason Elson Advertising director DIGITAL DESK Jane Geoghegan Marketing manager 020 7150 5394 [email protected] Vic Grimshaw Head of digital, Trinity Hislop Marketing executive [email protected] Catherine Crosby Eye to Eye Media Joint head of clients & strategy Fiona Logan Digital editor CONTRIBUTORS Susy Atkins Wine editor 020 7150 5044 and content producer Sue Quinn, Debora Robertson [email protected] Thea Everett Content producer With thanks to: Tina Betts, Stephanie Thomson Dorothy Kay Videographer delicious. magazine is published under licence from News Life Media by Eye to Eye Media Ltd. ISSN 1742-1586. Printed in the UK by Walstead Group Ltd. Colour origination by Rhapsody. Copyright Eye to Eye Media Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations. Eye to Eye Media Ltd is a registered data user whose entries in the Data Protection Register contain descriptions of sources and disclosures of personal data. This paper is manufactured using pulp taken from well managed, certified forests. All prices correct at time of going to press. UK basic annual subscription rate for 12 issues is £69. Overseas subscriptions for 12 issues available on request. Back issues cost £6 each. Member of the Audit Bureau of Circulations. delicious. is a trademark of News Life Media. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 129

talking point. Should we be eating grey squirrels? If you’re horrified by the idea of snacking on a hedgehog or a sprig of Japanese knotweed, maybe you should think again, says Lindsey Harrad. Left unchecked, these invasive species can wreck ecosystems WHAT DO K een to do my bit for the local wildlife, I’ve squirrels, those charming rogues, have decimated YOU THINK? made a hedgehog tunnel under my fence our native red squirrel population. In the US, squirrel Should we be to allow free roaming. But while hedgehogs is a popular game meat. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall eating invasive species or does may be endangered and adored here, they’re less has served squirrel at River Cottage, while Silo, the the idea give you welcome on the isles of Uist in the Outer Hebrides. zero-waste restaurant in east London, recently put the willies? Tell us at info@ A few were introduced in the it on the menu with invasive deliciousmagazine. 1970s and adapted a little too “Why some animals American signal crayfish and co.uk well to island life, tucking into Japanese knotweed (pleasantly the eggs of protected ground- become pets and others asparagus-tasting) as a nesting birds. A controversial end up on our plates has ‘radical act of sustainability’. cull ensued, later replaced with Eating invasive species isn’t an ongoing relocation project. never been logical. My without possible downsides. A non-native species can children lavish love on There’s a risk that demand will lead to commercial production have a devastating effect on a new ecosystem, and it can their guinea pigs, but in – as with rabbit and pigeon in be a costly problem to solve. France. Could squirrel hunts Culling can provide food such Ecuador they’re served become a thing? Or a black as venison, as with the burger with peanut sauce” market spring up for Japanese in this issue, so should we be knotweed, which spreads like putting Hebridean hedgehog on wildfire, driving gardeners mad. the menu? They were eaten in Europe in the Middle Many ecologists believe putting invasive species Ages, and in some traveller communities there’s on the plate downplays their catastrophic impact, still a tradition of clay-baking hedgehogs in the fire. arguing only draconian measures can eradicate Hedgehog might not be to your taste (it’s not to them. But you could also argue it’s hypocritical of mine either), but the rationale for why some us, the most invasive and destructive species animals become protected or pets and others end of all, to condemn these tenacious survivors, up on our plates has never been entirely logical. My especially as most are transplanted in the first children lavish love on their guinea pigs, but in place through human activity. Ecuador they’re served with peanut sauce. In the end, though, creating a more resilient food Countries with a tradition of supply in the face of climate change may require us PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES eating foods Westerners to embrace more sustainable and wild ingredients. might find repellent, such And while I can’t see peri peri squirrel appearing at as rats, bats or dogs, Nando’s any time soon, I’m all for getting on board: often do so because if the alternative is asparagus flown in from Peru, they’re plentiful pests I’ll happily eat stir-fried Japanese knotweed. that provide cheap meat. Lindsey is the author of Living Plantfully (Welbeck In the UK, invasive grey Balance £16.99). Follow her @livemoreplantfully

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