Delicious UK 07.2022_downmagaz.net

BBQ TIME! FAST & EASY MEALS FOR OUTSIDE – OR IN deliciousmagazine.co.uk Make.Eat.Share ON SALE 1-31 JULY 2022 £5.75 GLORIOUS Ber SUMMER IDEAS ry-licious… Ben Tish Ching He Huang Gill Meller Plus • Easy on the wallet: thrifty tips that work • Olia Hercules exclusive: cook for Ukraine • Be a better cook: knife skills • DIY kimchi



PAUL MITCHELL, BEN DEARNLEY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES welcome. uly… A month of escaping outside whenever possible: light, fresh air, nature. If you’re feeling in need of calm contemplation (am I the only one who holds my breath when there’s a daunting amount to do?), turn to p18, inhale and feast on the view. You’ll know what I mean when you get there. Then make a list of recipes to create and pack for a picnic extraordinaire. Next, invite people to bring a blanket and share them with you, in park, field or on pebbly shoreline, courtesy of delicious. regular (and favourite) Gill Meller – a man who knows how to make a fire on a beach. I so need to learn that skill. There are serious thoughts afoot, though. I’m sure you’ve been as moved and enraged by the war in Ukraine as the delicious. team and I have been, and we’re honoured to publish a piece by food writer Olia Hercules (p50) about her homeland, her family and the far-reaching effects of conflict. Accustomed as she was to the healing, nurturing nature of the cooking process, she never imagined she could lose the will to shop, stir and bake – but that’s what happened, and she talks with moving clarity about the reunion that restored her impetus to cook. Ukrainian borsch is a recipe we all need to learn – for everything it represents. Our other July issue alumni include Ching He Huang and Ben Tish – both happy to share their recipe wisdom to make your month an altogether tastier one. Enjoy the cooking and I hope your July brings sunshine, calm and joy. Editorial director, delicious. Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @editorkarenb The recipe I’m making first… I love a thrifty recipe, and this panzanella (p84) made with tinned sardines (bear with!) is a treat in store. Eat while reading Thea Everett’s tried and tested money- savers on p68 and your wallet will thank you for it. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 3

ContentsJuly COVER RECIPE 6 Make July delicious. 50 One from the heart The dish Make life simple. Boozy raspberry Great things to try this month that comforts Olia Hercules summer mess p58 EASY FOOD FOR BUSY NIGHTS 8 A drink with... Great British 54 Big up the berry bounty Puds 76 Fire up the grill! Midweek RECIPE: Menu champ Spencer Metzger that taste of summer ESTHER CLARK meals for the oven or BBQ PHOTOGRAPH: 9 #notforsharing Sizzling 62 Chef’s secret recipe Mmm- 84 Thrifty cook Canny fish salad KRIS KIRKHAM chilli and lime prawns worthy mango cheesecake 86 Easy bake Chetna Makan’s FOOD STYLING: SEIKO HATFIELD 10 delicious. world The best 64 In full bloom The pleasures cherry upside-down cake from our mailbox and more of a ripe, soft cheese 90 Use it up Creative ideas for STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON 12 Appetisers News, book reviews 68 Thrifty ways to spend less your leftovers and our pub of the month on food and fuel Health matters. 14 Hotlist Covetable pieces for 115 Bite-size break Andalusia your home and kitchen 120 delicious. discoveries Taste- 93 Health news Info and advice 94 Hello good bacteria The truth 16 What’s on the menu? Meal ideas tested products for your list from July’s recipes 122 Champion producers about fermented food 98 A healthier fry-up Kimchi 18 Fresh-air feast A glorious picnic Marmalade – only better spread from Gill Meller 124 Recipe index fried rice 130 Talking point Do we need 30 Let the veg shine Josh Katz Be a better cook. transforms summer goodies to widen our palates? 102 Tips and tricks Culinary 36 A burger with a difference Drinks. advice and kitchen know-how Sustainable venison in a bun 71 Cocktail of the month Gill 106 The project Ching He Huang’s 39 How to survive having people Meller’s summery creation vegan kimchi to stay Debora Robertson on the enduring power of scones 72 Susy’s best buys Pretty 109 Technical bake Sourdough in pink rosés and spirits linseed baguettes 42 Roast of the month Honey and miso salmon on the barbecue 74 Beer school Refreshing brews 44 Menu Ben Tish’s fulsome spread 30 Try these recipes to big up 106 Get ready to shred and 36 Tuck into a burger that’s summer’s best vegetables create your own kimchi better for the environment

18 Other great stuff. 66 SUBSCRIBE... An unmissable, better than half price offer 97 COMING NEXT MONTH What to look forward to in August 100 WIN a three-night trip to Seville 128 TAKE FIVE Our crossword puzzle, food quiz and other brain teasers 76 Why wait for the weekend? 44 Ben Tish’s easy, breezy, 54 Berry nice! Brilliant puds to Enjoy great grills midweek Med-inspired menu make the most of fab fruit deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5

Make July As summer gets into its stride, wide open spaces and sandy beaches are calling – with fantastic food all the way Great escape If you like the camping, food and music vibe, Rock Oyster Festival, held in a sublime spot overlooking the Camel Estuary (right) in north Cornwall, is the weekend away of dreams. The programme includes chef-led masterclasses and barbecue feasts from a line-up including Jack and Rick Stein, Romy Gill and Rosemary Shrager. The music is equally enticing: the Happy Mondays and Laura Mvula headline, with DJs such as Huey Morgan playing beachside into the night. Good times guaranteed (plus some of the country’s best beaches are a hop and a skip away). Day tickets from £53.50, rockoysterfestival.co.uk 6 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

delicious. moments. Great food on the road Love seeking out producers and trying artisan products? If so, the Somerset Food Trail (15-24 July) is calling you for a few days of roaming around some of England’s greenest and most fertile land. The festival describes itself as an open-farm showcase featuring a diverse mix of producers – crafty people making cider, buffalo mozzarella, vodka, cheese and more – plus there are orchards to visit and tastings to enjoy. The aim is to give a better understanding of where our food comes from, championing sustainability and buying local. Visit somersetfoodtrail.org for an interactive map and to see all the locations and events on offer Amanda Heron and Great recipe to try Antonio Paladino at Bioaqua Farm on the It’s the month for cherries, those sublime Somerset Food Trail nuggets of sweetness, and their season is all too short. A favourite delicious. dessert is this sensational pavlova topped with elderflower syllabub, cherries and nectarines at their best. Search ‘cherry elderflower pavlova’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk to find the recipe. Or turn to p86 for Chetna Makan’s fresh cherry upside-down cake, so moist it doubles as a pudding… Enjoy! WORDS: KAREN BARNES, JESS MEYER, THEA EVERETT. PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES Great fruit and veg in season NEW IN Cherries, greengages, kohlrabi peaches, summer tomatoes AT THEIR BEST Apricots, artichokes, aubergines, beetroot, blackcurrants, redcurrants and whitecurrants, broad beans, chillies, courgettes, fennel, gooseberries, new garlic, peas, radishes, runner beans, salad greens, soft herbs, summer turnips, watercress ON THEIR WAY OUT Jersey royals

voices in food. A glass of riesling with Spencer Metzger The head chef at The Ritz London and this year’s Great British Menu winner talks about magic, being in the moment and his career-long mentor I love Sherlock Holmes. I live near SPENCER’S AFTER- he will help you work out the right INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. PHOTOGRAPHS: OPTOMEN TELEVISION LTD, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Baker Street and pass the advert for his WORK SUPPER answer for yourself. museum on the Tube. My fish course for Great British Menu, Be Careful What “Chicken kyiv is my I tried to block out everything else You Fish For, was inspired by him. favourite thing to eat when I was on Great British Menu. I’d after a day at work – put all my focus on cooking the dish I’ve always enjoyed magic – watching a ready meal, but one and not let anything else get in my it, that is. I’m also a fan of Derren Brown. of the nicer ones! – way. I would never have entered the The mystery, the surprise moment… with a simple salad. competition unless I was confident in That’s what I hope to do with my food. When I get through the my cooking and knew that I’d do myself door, I want something proud. It was the right time for me. I’ve recently got into cycling, but easy so I can put my food pretty much takes up my whole I think the industry is moving in life. I don’t have time for hobbies. If feet up. A guilty a positive direction. It’s still quite I’m not cooking, I’m going out to eat pleasure. And I’d have far off what it should be, but steps somewhere – it’s all about food! I’m such as working four days on/three always looking for a new idea or a nice cold glass of days off, cutting down on hours and ingredient. I find it captivating. riesling. That’s my increasing pay are attracting more people and keeping them. In the At 15 I was given a work experience go-to drink.” past, people would do 10 years, then placement at The Ritz and found leave because of the toll it took. myself immersed in all the demands of a busy kitchen. I thought, “I love this.” The Ritz is such a special place, That was when I knew what I wanted to a wonderful building. Every day do with my life. Now I’m head chef there, brings rewards. It’s little things like and having had that experience makes when your produce comes in and the it even more special to me. fish is amazing, or when a young chef says, “Can you taste this?” and you You need a mentor, a figure you look think, “That’s bloody brilliant!” up to, who you can go to for advice. I’ve always had John Williams, the Follow Spencer on Instagram executive chef at The Ritz, there for @spencermetzger me. He’ll never give you the answer, but 8 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

me time. #notforsharing Lip-smackingly good and ready in minutes RECIPE: JULES MERCER. PHOTOGRAPH: SEAN CALITZ. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS Sizzling chilli & lime Meanwhile, heat the oven to with the grated zest and juice of NEXT MONTH prawns with fried 200°C fan/gas 7. Slice 1 medium 1 lime, a pinch of chilli flakes and Sticky grilled courgettes courgette into 0.5cm rounds. some black pepper until sizzling. peaches with Toss with 2 tsp semolina, almonds Serves 1 1 tsp cornflour, a pinch of salt When the prawns and Hands-on time 20 min and 1 tbsp vegetable oil. Transfer courgettes are done, remove and Oven time 10 min to a baking tray and roast for drizzle with the chilli lime butter. 10-12 minutes until golden. Serve immediately with a dollop Toss 6 whole sustainable tiger of mayo and lime wedges. prawns with the grated zest and Heat the grill to high. Grill the Per serving 506kcals, 39.9g fat juice of 1 lime, 1 crushed garlic prawns for 3-5 minutes on each (13.6g saturated), 20.2g protein, clove and 1 tbsp olive oil. Set side until just cooked through. 15.4g carbs (3.1g sugars), aside to marinate for 10 minutes. 1.8g salt, 2.3g fibre In a small pan, melt 20g butter deliciousmagazine.co.uk 9

OVER TO YOU Subject: Learning to cook with delicious. STAR From: Alice O’Gorman EMAIL At the start of lockdown, my daughter demanded I make scones. I have flashbacks of cutting out rough + circles of dough with a knife as I didn’t own any cookie cutters. Fast forward and I now have an arsenal of kitchen tools, a batch cooking addiction and I pick up delicious. every month. Best of all, I have a little chef, my son [right], who adores helping. As someone who could burn water two years ago, it’s been bliss learning to cook. Thanks for keeping us going! travel. Subject: More to discover From: Sandy Ross Bite-size break I was delighted to see Graz featured [Jun, p121] but was STAR PRIZE surprised that Ginko (restaurant-ginko.at) wasn’t mentioned. Alpine delights It’s a relaxed cafeteria-style restaurant whose chefs draw on This month’s star a variety of cuisines to produce seasonal vegan and vegetarian email wins two boxes Austria’s second city, Graz, scales the heights with its turrets and dishes. Something else to look out for is Zotter chocolate of Italian craft wine, spires – and also with its food, from mega-schnitzels to small plates. (zotter.at). The factory in Riegersburg is too far for a day trip worth over £50, from Add in mild summer weather and you have a recipe for a fine weekend from Graz, but many cafés offer hot chocolate made with special melting bars of Zotter. And if you enjoy mead (and When in Rome. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 121 don’t mind heavy metal and hard rock), don’t miss Die Taverne In Italy, wine lovers zum güldenen Bären (find them on Facebook): there’s no better visit their local winery place to try blood orange mead. Graz is so worth a weekend trip, but there’s enough to savour for a longer visit, too. with refillable containers to hold the Talking point gets you talking wine, then go home to enjoy it. When in Rome Tina Charisma’s take on national cuisines [May, p130] is on a mission to bring sparked quite a flurry of discussion: this tradition to the UK. It offers Italian craft From: Sue Dudley From: Jacqueline Pearce wine from independent I have to disagree with Tina about global What does the term ‘national cuisine’ potluck and being able to access the same mean today? To me it means I can eat my producers in cans, flavours wherever we are in the world. Why way around the world. At the age of five, flat bottles and would we want to? In my travels I love to my family moved to Cyprus. Since then, enjoy local flavours. Friends and family who I’ve loved trying food from all different eco-friendly boxes that visit me in the South of France, where I’m cultures. During the week we could eat stay fresh for up to six lucky to live for part of each year, don’t want the Thai, Italian, Polish or Mexican and food they can eat in Britain – they want local Indian dishes I’ve learned to cook over the weeks once opened. specialities: mussels and years, and the list goes on. Even so, I remain wheninromewine.com shellfish from Gruissan, small spicy lamb pies loyal to my British heritage, FOR YOUR CHANCE from Pézenas and with a love of a full TO WIN... Let us know the best pain aux English breakfast your thoughts on this raisin in the world, and a good beef just five minutes stew or roast month’s issue by from our house. dinner on emailing us at info@ a Sunday. deliciousmagazine. co.uk*

delicious. world. Follow us on social @deliciousmag Meet the reader On Twitter… Jeanette Howse, 66, lives in We asked: What’s the one cookery book you’d Oxfordshire with husband Mick never part with? Here’s what you said: and works in tourism PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES. *CONTRIBUTIONS MAY BE EDITED FOR SPACE/CLARITY AND ARE PUBLISHED ON THE BASIS @helenbaileyuk @ClareJanetMason musings on the THAT CONTRIBUTORS HAVE THE AGREEMENT OF ANYONE MENTIONED FOR ANY PERSONAL INFORMATION TO BE PUBLISHED “I’ve been preserving Persiana by Mary Berry’s Ultimate author’s philosophy since I was 10” @SabrinaGhayour Cake Book is my around meat Drink order? English sparkling wine. because it’s the one baking bible. My consumption. Had Top condiment? Worcestershire copy is tabbed and it 12-plus years! sauce adds flavour to everything. we always turn to covered in baking Treasured food memory? Making when we want powder, cocoa and @DrEmmaLBrown blackberry and apple jam aged 10 – buttercream. There My grandparents’ my mum’s wouldn’t set but mine did. something for dinner isn’t another that’s Be-Ro Home Recipes I still love the smell of blackberries and with big flavours. from the 1940s/50s. apples cooking. I later worked at Didcot so easy and I learned how to cook Railway Centre and sold jams and @HopeDavehope comprehensive. using these recipes. chutneys made from the fruit that grew A Reader’s Digest on site, before setting up my own tome called The @TedOnCatalysis JOIN THE CHAT business on the side, Well Preserved. Cookery Year. My The River Cottage Food hero? Chef Kuba Winkowski. I’d entire family ate the Connect with other love to be able to cook as well as he does. recipes from this book Meat Book by delicious. food lovers on Food zero? I’m not fond of tripe. from about 1970 @HughFearnleyW. Twitter @deliciousmag Favourite family recipe? My dad made onwards. We still do Amazing recipes, or join our Facebook group a great spaghetti bolognese. the pork tenderloin chapters on sourcing, at deliciousmagazine. Cooking disaster? Burning a pan of with cream, sherry and preparing and serving co.uk/foodlovers strawberry jam to a cinder. I left it on mushroom sauce to all day while I was at work. different meats, Top delicious. recipe? I love trying this day! techniques and new things, so anything I haven’t made before. GREAT PRIZES TO BE WON ONLINE! WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE A Sage Duo-Temp Pro Three cook-at-home Greek meze FEATURED IN A READER coffee machine plus two months’ experience boxes from The INTERVIEW? worth of Minor Figures Cookaway, designed by MasterChef Email a few words about yourself to barista-quality oat milk and winner Irini Tzortzoglou (see p121). [email protected] two bags of its limited-edition Worth £165, each box includes two Minor Figures x Metric Coffee bottles of Greek wine and Irini’s beans, worth £500. cookbook Under the Olive Tree. To enter our online competitions and for Ts&Cs, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions deliciousmagazine.co.uk 11

APPETISERS Bite-size news, reviews & diary dates. By Phoebe Stone PHOTOGRAPH: RBG KEW Return to River Cottage THE NATURE OF EATING Did you know we rely on only a handful of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is back for his first TV series in the planet’s 7,000 edible plants? Kew 10 years: River Cottage Reunited. Gardens’ Food Forever event explores their Joined by familiar faces including importance to our future. There’ll be talks Gill Meller (find his recipes in this and installations by artists including Serge issue) and forager John Wright, Attukwei Clottey (above with work Shooting the four-parter continues Hugh’s at Hunger and architect Farida Abu-Bakare), mission to help us “live and cook a little closer to nature”, with a plus plant-led menus by Dr Rupy Aujla, new campaign championing Zoe Adjonyoh and Tom Hunt. sustainable venison. Until 18 September; tickets from £15, kew.org Catch up on All4 and find our venison burger recipe on p36 Treasures at your fingertips New app DELLI is like a virtual food and drink market. From chilli oil to bakes (like Bunhead’s, left), browse offerings from producers to collect locally. Currently London-centric, it’s growing UK-wide (filter for items delivered nationwide). “We’re helping people discover local food makers,” says DELLI’s Natalie Lee-Joe. Search ‘DELLI’ wherever you get your apps.

in the know. Pub of KITCHEN BOOKSHELF the month This month: fusion recipes, big flavours from THE BRIDGE ARMS, Sri Lanka and home comforts from Ukraine and beyond NEAR CANTERBURY MEZCLA RAMBUTAN HOME FOOD PUBBY CREDS Meaning ‘blend’ in This portrait of Sri Ukrainian food writer Despite its Michelin star, Spanish, Mezcla is Ixta Lankan food by Cynthia Olia Hercules explores Belfrage’s solo debut Shanmugalingam is full comfort cooking (see this 16th-century inn (she co-authored of personality – and her borsch on p50). still feels like a pub – dark Flavour with Ottolenghi mouthwatering recipes Recipes span her life in beams, hop- festooned for curries, sambols Ukraine, Cyprus, Italy bar. It also has a spacious in 2020). With (coconut side dishes) and the UK: a London influences from her and more. Cynthia was neighbour’s Bengali garden (above). raised in the UK by Italian childhood, Tamil parents, and her chicken roast, a THE BOOZE Brazilian mother and essays on the cuisine Ukrainian-Armenian There are always local Mexico-based family, tell us a lot about Sri aunt’s cabbage pie... Kentish brews such as the results – like piri Lanka’s history and Sure to please home Chapel Down’s IPA and piri tofu over ‘crispy her family’s relationship cooks everywhere, with crispy’ orzo – promise with the country. tips and techniques too. Kentish Pip cider. a repertoire reboot. Bloomsbury £26 Bloomsbury £26 THE FOOD Ebury Press £26 (out 7 July) Stellar (literally) – bar (out 7 July) snacks of fried chicken PUB WORDS: HUGH THOMPSON with tandoori mayo beat RIPE AND READY pork scratchings. Mains include Ibérico pork Cambridge cheesemonger Rennet chop, hispi cabbage and & Rind has been named Affineur smoked maple bacon. of the Year in a new competition from the Academy of Cheese and THE WALK Devon cheesemaker Quicke’s. Explore nearby Charlton Park or walk to Simpsons Eight hopefuls received cheddar Wine Estate in Barham. truckles in May 2021, then worked their own maturing magic (one even CAN YOU STAY? took their truckle for walks!). The No, but The Pig at Bridge winning cheese, Priscilla, was aged by Perry James Wakeman (left) Place is a stroll away. and praised for its boldness. bridgearms.co.uk deliciousmagazine.co.uk 13

HOT LIST LIGHT FANTASTIC CLICK ABLE JUICY! BEAUTY New discovery: candlesticks made from handblown Handmade in Devon, this borosilicate glass by Egyptian artisans. At first touch they I recently stumbled across ceramic lemon squeezer seem light – insubstantial, even – but the special glass Nom Living, a website is properly pointy (for can withstand high temperatures. Choose from a luscious that oozes style on efficient squeezing), mix of sorbet colours. From £30 each; issygranger.com every page. These properly deep (many are too shallow) and easy stoneware mixing bowls to pour from. It’s sold have a useful lip for pouring, by a shop committed to and they’re safe for the championing independent microwave and dishwasher. makers – well worth a visit Large H16cm bowl, £49.50; if you’re in Bristol. small H12.5cm bowl, £30; £27; thebristolartisan.com nomliving.com

in the know. What’s new, what’s BBUAYRGAIN great, what we rate CHOSEN BY EDITOR KAREN BARNES SLOW BURNERS UNDER £10 BUY RIPE FOR A SPECIAL GIFT OF THE MONTH REVIVAL For something to light in If you like to map out and those glass candlesticks, If you’re looking for Remember chianti bottles shop for meals ahead, how about a pair of chunky attractive jars, either for wrapped in straw and quality diary-maker Papier tapered hand-dipped your own kitchen storage covered in wax from a now sells weekly meal candles? They’re made in (tea, pasta, lentils, sugar dripping candle? That 1970s planners with tear-off England, come in a sexy etc) or for packaging vibe is having a comeback shopping lists, cooking muted colour palette, have homemade biscuits to give (along with all things tips and notes. They come a nine-hour burn time and as gifts, Tala’s glass jars with crochet) and this smart, beautifully wrapped and are made from mineral wax bamboo lids are well priced. rattan-encased glass vase can be personalised, too. that gives off less smoke. 700ml, £7.45; 980ml, is a great-value example. £22 (including £5.95 per pair; £8; 1.2 litre, £8.89; H20cm vase, £15; personalisation and wintersmoon.co.uk talacooking.com marksandspencer.com wrapping); papier.com deliciousmagazine.co.uk 15

WHAT’S ON THE MENU? We throttle tonnes of real, So many great recipes PICNIC-PERFECT farm-grown rhubarb, born and in this issue, but how bred in the British countryside, Courgette, chard, until we have enough juice to fill best to combine basil, parsley and goat’s them? Here are three cheese pasties p20 a third of every bottle. warm-weather menus put together by food Raised pork, chicken and Real gin has the countryside in. editor Tom Shingler parsley pie p24 warnersdistillery.com Camembert and roasted grape picnic loaf p65 Buttermilk lemon scones p40

make it yours. SUMMER COLOUR RIOT FRESH AL FRESCO FEASTING Crammed with countryside flavour from farm-grown botanicals, Sizzling chilli & lime prawns Lettuce and celery salad with fried courgettes p9 with blue cheese dressing p28 and rescued citrus peel. Bottles of taste without the waste. Glazed roast salmon with Sardine and tomato pickled cucumber salsa p42 panzanella p84 Real gin has the countryside in. Borsch p52 Korean-style BBQ chicken wings warnersdistillery.com with charred potato salad p80 Alphonso mango cheesecake p62 Strawberry and geranium cordial p27 deliciousmagazine.co.uk 17

A fresh-air feast You may not be lucky enough to live by the sea like Gill Meller, but you can still head outside for picnic fun. Raised pies, pasties, scotch eggs, pickled beetroot, seasonally summery British salads… He’s worked his magic on them all. Just add sunshine PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY STYLING GILL MELLER Gill cooking up an evening snack on the seashore 18 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

make.eat.share.

I love proper pasties and they’re perfect for picnics, but it can be tricky to find a good vegetable version. So obviously I’ve had to dream up my own recipe, using chard and chard stalks, courgettes, lots of herbs and a little goat’s cheese – although you could use feta or ricotta if you prefer. I wrap up the filling in a rough puff pastry, which is a little lighter and flakier than traditional shortcrust. Make sure the courgettes aren’t too big. Smaller ones are firmer and more flavoursome. Courgette, chard, basil, For the rough puff pastry a pinch of salt in a bowl, then add parsley and goat’s • 250g unsalted butter, cubed just enough of the iced water to cheese pasties bring everything together into and chilled a dough full of big pieces of Makes 4-6 • 500g plain flour, plus extra butter. On a well floured surface, roll out the dough in one Hands-on time 1 hour 35 min, to dust direction (away from you) into a • 200ml iced water rectangle about 1cm thick. Fold plus cooling and chilling the 2 short ends into the middle To finish so they overlap. Give the pastry Simmering time 15-20 min • 1 medium free-range egg, well a quarter-turn (90 degrees), then repeat the rolling, folding Oven time 45-50 min beaten and turning process 3 more • 1 tsp black onion seeds times (so you’ll have completed DON’T If you find yourself with the process 4 times altogether). WASTE 1 Start by making the filling. Wrap the pastry in baking paper, leftover pastry and Strip the chard leaves off the then chill in the fridge for stalks and give everything a 30 minutes (this stops the IT filling, make some extra, wash. Roughly chop the leaves butter from getting sticky). and cut the stalks into 1cm Remove the pastry from the smaller pastries. pieces. Bring a pan of salted fridge and repeat the rolling, water to the boil and add the folding and turning process a For the filling stalk pieces. After a minute or further 4 times. Wrap the pastry • Bunch chard (about 200g) two, add the leaves and cook again and put it in the fridge • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil for a further 2 minutes. Drain, to chill for 30 minutes. • 2 onions, halved and thinly allow to cool, then squeeze out 4 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ the excess liquid from the gas 6. Roll out the chilled pastry sliced chard. Set aside. to 4-5mm thick, then use • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 Set a frying pan over a medium an 18-20cm plate to cut out • 6-8 small courgettes, sliced heat and add half the extra- 4-6 neat rounds. Put a quarter virgin olive oil. When it’s hot, of the filling in the lower half of into 1-2cm rounds add the onions, garlic and a little each round, allowing a border • Finely grated zest 1 lemon seasoning. Sizzle the onions and of 2cm around the edge. Brush • Large handful basil, leaves garlic for 5-6 minutes, stirring the border below the filling regularly so they don’t catch. with the beaten egg, then fold picked and chopped Add the courgettes, stir well the pastry over to enclose the • Handful flatleaf parsley, leaves and cook for 15-20 minutes – filling. Crimp the edges with your you want the courgettes to fingers or a fork to make a tight picked and chopped begin to break down a bit seal. Brush the tops of the • 150-200g soft goat’s cheese and lose some of their excess pasties with egg and scatter over moisture, so keep stirring them the black onion seeds and a pinch (see Gill’s introduction) as they cook. When they’re of sea salt flakes. Transfer the tender but still retaining some pasties to a baking sheet lined GILL’S STORY shape, take the pan off the heat with baking paper, then bake for Living in an idyllic spot on the Devon/ and stir in the chard, lemon zest, 45-50 minutes until golden. Eat Dorset borders, food writer Gill has basil and parsley, plus some just warm or cooled completely. carved a niche for himself as the more salt and pepper. Allow the Per pasty (for 6) 828kcals, 50.7g pre-eminent exponent of modern rustic mixture to cool, then crumble fat (28g saturated), 18.3g British cooking. Part of the River in the goat’s cheese and gently protein, 71.6g carbs (5.8g Cottage team for 14 years, he teaches mix. Keep the filling cool while sugars), 0.9g salt, 6g fibre → courses there on cooking with organic, you make the pastry. mainly home-grown seasonal 3 For the pastry, combine the ingredients. His first book, Gather butter cubes with the flour and (2017), won an award for the best debut at the Fortnum & Mason Food & Drink Awards. Since then he’s written two more books as well as River Cottage guides and been a delicious. regular. These recipes are from his fourth, newly published book, Outside (see p28). 20 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

make.eat.share. Gill’s vegetarian pasties make the perfect picnic food

Beetroot is an adaptable vegetable, but Pickled beetroot, 2 Trim, then peel the beetroot. not many people eat it raw. In fact, some almonds, anchovies and varieties can give you a scratchy throat if lovage mayonnaise Slice them as thinly as you can you eat them naked and unabashed (the Serves 2-3 – it can be tricky, but if you take beetroot, not you). But one of the joys of raw beetroot is the crunchy texture Hands-on time 30 min, plus your time and use a sharp knife, and unrivalled earthiness. In order to preserve that bite and flavour, I like to overnight soaking and at least it’s not too difficult. Put the lightly pickle thin slices in cider vinegar. The acidity seems to calm the beetroot 6 hours pickling and soaking beetroot rounds in a bowl, add down without quelling its character. Look out for plump, salted anchovies and, if the thyme, bashed garlic and you have time, it’s worth splitting and peeling the almonds – just put on some vinegar, then shuffle everything nice music and daydream as you do it. It might seem like a faff, about so the vinegar covers the HOW TO PACK FOR YOUR PICNIC EASY but soaking almonds and beetroot. Put in the fridge to SWAPS Whatever you’re making for your feast, pack it into a cool bag with some ice peeling them yourself pickle for at least 6 hours. blocks on top (as the cold travels down) does result in better, plumper 3 Drain the almonds, then use PASTIES, RAISED PIE & SCOTCH EGGS Pack in storage boxes or tins with baking almonds. If you’re short of time, the tip of a knife to split them. paper at the bottom and between layers. though, you can of course use They will naturally part down the THE SALADS Pack the undressed salads in large blanched almonds. middle and the soft skin will all airtight containers. Put the pickling juice, mayo, oil and dressing in separate If you can’t find lovage, use but pull away – use the tip of the jars/bottles to add when you serve. flatleaf parsley instead. knife to tease away any stubborn STRAWBERRY & GERANIUM CORDIAL Make up a big plastic bottle of the DON’T This recipe makes more skin. Trickle them with the diluted drink, but don’t fill to the top. WASTE Freeze it and the bottle will help keep mayo than you’ll need – extra-virgin olive oil and season other things cold, plus it will have melted by the time you’re ready to drink it. IT leftover mayonnaise will with salt and pepper. Set aside. MONTGOMERY COCKTAIL keep in the fridge for 4-5 days. 4 To make the mayonnaise, whisk Bottle a batch (minus the fizzy water – add it when you serve) and freeze as PLEASE NOTE Recipe contains all the ingredients except the oils above. Elderflowers will be past their best in July, so if you want to decorate raw egg and lovage in a bowl. Combine your cocktail, take a few other edible flowers with you – borage flowers are the 2 oils in a jug. Now, start to pretty, if you have them in the garden. • 50g unblanched whole add the oils in a thin trickle, almonds (see Easy Swaps) whisking continuously. When the • 5-6 small beetroot – golf ball-size is ideal oil mixture starts to emulsify with • 2-3 thyme sprigs the yolks, you can add it a little • 1 garlic clove, bashed • 150ml apple cider vinegar faster. If things have gone to • ½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plan, you will have a thick, glossy plus extra to serve • 1 small jar (about 50g) salted mayonnaise. Stir in the chopped anchovies in oil, drained lovage, taste and add more salt, • Beetroot leaves or salad leaves pepper, mustard or vinegar if to serve (optional) required. If the mayo seems too thick, stir in 1 tbsp warm water. Set aside until you’re ready to serve. (Alternatively, you can use a food processor, trickling the For the lovage mayonnaise oils in through the feed tube • 2 large free-range egg yolks • ½ small garlic clove, crushed with the motor running.) • 1 tsp dijon or English mustard, 5 To serve, arrange the drained plus extra to taste • 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar, plus beetroot on a platter, saving extra to taste the pickling vinegar. Arrange the • 175ml sunflower oil • 75ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus anchovies and almonds over extra to serve the top. Spoon over some of the • Handful lovage leaves, finely lovage mayonnaise and scatter chopped (see Easy Swaps) over beetroot leaves or other salad leaves. Dot with drops of the bright red pickling vinegar and season all over with salt and pepper. Trickle with extra-virgin 1 Put the almonds in a bowl and olive oil before serving. pour over just enough boiling water to cover. Set them aside Per serving (for 3) 502kcals, somewhere cool to plump up – preferably overnight. 46.5g fat (5.9g saturated), 12g protein, 7.9g carbs (6.7g sugars), 1.8g salt, 2.2g fibre → 22 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

make.eat.share. When it comes to the crunch, beetroot salad delivers

Raised pork, chicken and parsley pie Serves 8 Hands-on time 1 hour 40 min, plus overnight chilling Oven time 1 hour 30 min Specialist kit 18–20cm pie dish or cake tin, 7-9cm deep Search ‘joint a chicken’ KNOW- at deliciousmagazine. HOW There are two pleasures here. The co.uk for our video on first is pie making. The second, pie how to do this. eating. Pie making is the kind of cookery you settle into, like a good You can pulse the leg and book, so give yourself time. Each thigh meat, pork belly and bacon stage of the recipe is a chapter, in a sense, and the finished pie, cooling lardons in a food processor on the sideboard, is the last page. instead of chopping by hand. Eating the pie is equally enjoyable. You’re like an architect at this point For the hot water crust pastry – stepping back and admiring your • 200g lard work. A big pie like this needs to be • 500g plain flour, plus extra made the day before your picnic to dust – it gives everything time to • ½ tsp sea salt cool and find its place. • 2 medium free-range eggs This pork pie brings For the filling satisfaction – in the • 1.5–2kg organic or free-range making and the eating chicken, preferably with giblets • 350g fatty British outdoor- reared pork belly, cubed • 200g bacon lardons or chopped streaky bacon • Large handful flatleaf parsley, leaves picked and chopped • Handful chives, finely sliced • 1 tsp ground white pepper • ½ tsp ground black pepper • Good pinch grated nutmeg • 1 tsp sea salt 1 To make the pastry, put the lard and 170ml water in a pan and warm over a low heat until the fat has melted and the mixture is warm – it doesn’t have to boil. Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, combine the flour and salt. Crack one of the eggs into a bowl and beat it lightly. Pour the lard and water mixture into the flour. Add the beaten egg and bring everything together to form a dough. Gather up the dough and put it on a work surface. Roughly fold the pastry 4-5 times until smooth. Allow the pastry to cool 24 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

in the fridge – it’ll be much easier top of the pie dish. Roll out the make.eat.share. to work with if it’s not warm. smaller portion of pastry for the 2 While the pastry is chilling, pie lid. It should have the same Scotch egg with a make the pie filling. Put the diameter as the pie dish itself. smoky, fishy twist chicken on a board and remove 5 Crack the remaining egg into a the giblets, if present. Use a bowl and beat it to make a glaze. sharp knife to remove each leg Use a pastry brush to brush the from the bird, then divide the rim of the pastry with a little drumsticks from the thighs. beaten egg. Carefully ease the Carefully remove the chicken lid into place and crimp the breasts. Try not to leave any meat edges together, trimming any on the carcass (see Know-how). overhanging edges back to the Remove the skin from the legs crimped seam. Use the tip of a and breasts – you can save this knife to make a small hole in the and all the chicken bones for middle of the lid. Set the pie in stock. Cut the leg and thigh the middle of the oven and bake meat away from the bones and for 20 minutes, then carefully put in a bowl with the pork belly remove the pie from the oven and lardons or chopped bacon. and lower the oven temperature Trim the chicken liver and heart to 140°C fan/gas 3. Brush the and add this to the other meat. top of the pie all over with beaten Give everything a good mix, then egg and return it to the oven for put it through a mincer or chop 1 hour 10-20 minutes until the the meat to a relatively fine pastry is crisp and golden and consistency by hand (see the filling is cooked through. Know-how). Put the minced Remove the pie from the oven mixture back into a large bowl and allow it to cool, then chill it and add the parsley and chives, for 6-8 hours or overnight before along with the white and black slicing and eating. pepper, nutmeg and salt. Cut Per serving 778kcals, 43.3g fat the chicken breasts into 2-3cm (16.3g saturated), 47.6g protein, cubes and add to the bowl. 48.2g carbs (0.4g sugars), 2.1g Carefully mix the chunks of salt, 2.6g fibre chicken into the minced pork, herbs and seasoning so For more ways to cook with everything’s well combined lard, see Use it Up → and evenly distributed. Cover and refrigerate until needed. Whoever came up with 3 Heat the oven to 160°C fan/ the scotch egg deserves a gas 4. Set aside a quarter of the round of applause. It’s like pastry for the pie lid, then form toast, eggs and sausages, the remaining three-quarters into a round on a floured all in one portable surface. Roll it out into a circle, package. Scotch eggs are roughly 35cm in diameter. Lay the pastry in the pie dish/tin, the picnicker’s dream carefully bringing it up the sides but not everybody likes and smoothing out any pleats sausagemeat… Cue the as you go, to make the pie case. smoked mackerel scotch Leave a very slight overhang of egg! All I do is replace the pastry all round. minced pork with flaked 4 Fill the lined dish/tin with smoked mackerel, shot the chicken and pork mixture, making sure you don’t leave any through with a hint of unfilled gaps. Don’t worry if it horseradish, lemon and doesn’t come all the way to the chive. You can make them up a day or two in advance, then cook them just before you head for a picnic.

If I stand in the garden on a still, warm early summer evening and breathe in, all I can smell are elderflowers. The air is silenced with their scent. This refreshing drink is made with elderflower cordial, which you can make or buy, and homemade rhubarb bitters – but you could use Campari. It’s a light and floral cocktail. Smoked mackerel 2 Bring a pan of water to the Montgomery cocktail scotch eggs boil, add the 4 eggs and cook for 6½ minutes. Drain the eggs, Serves 1 Makes 4 then run them under the cold Hands-on time 10 min tap until cool enough to handle Simmering time 6-8 min Hands-on time 35 min, plus (this also stops them cooking further). Carefully shell them. • 50ml vodka, chilled cooling 3 Divide the mackerel mixture • 50ml elderflower cordial into 8 equal portions, then shape • Plenty of ice Cooking time 25 min each portion into a rough disc, • About 100ml sparkling water about 6cm in diameter. Place a • 1 lemon, halved Use one hand (dry) to roll disc in the palm of your hand, set • Elderflowers or other edible a boiled egg in the middle, then KNOW- each mackerel-covered top with a second disc. Mould flowers to garnish (optional) HOW the smoked mackerel and potato around the egg, sealing the joins For the rhubarb bitters (makes egg in the flour and put well. Repeat this process with enough for 6-8 cocktails) the remaining eggs and discs. • 4 rhubarb sticks, sliced into into the beaten egg, then the 4 For the coating, set out 3 shallow bowls. Put the flour in 1cm pieces other hand (wet) to roll in the one bowl and season it with salt • 3-4 juniper berries, bashed and pepper. Pour the beaten • 2 cloves, bashed egg, then the breadcrumbs. eggs into the next. Tip the • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon breadcrumbs into the third. • 200g hot-smoked peppered Coat each scotch egg with 1 For the rhubarb bitters, put mackerel fillet seasoned flour. Next, dip it the rhubarb in a pan with 350ml in the beaten egg and, finally, water and the remaining bitters • Small handful chives, finely roll it in the breadcrumbs (see ingredients. Bring up to a gentle sliced Know-how). Chill the eggs until simmer and cook for 6-8 minutes you’re ready to cook them. or until the rhubarb is soft. Let • 50g full-fat cream cheese 5 Heat a deep pan with a the rhubarb cool in the pan. • 2 tsp horseradish sauce 5-7cm depth of sunflower oil to 2 Pour the contents of the pan • Finely grated zest ½ lemon, 175°C on a digital thermometer into a fine sieve set over a bowl or until hot enough to turn a few to catch all the juice, pushing the plus a squeeze juice breadcrumbs golden in 30-40 last drops through with the back • 300g cooked mashed potato seconds. Lower the coated eggs of a spoon. Pour the juice into a • 4 medium free-range eggs into the oil, a couple at a time, small jug and chill until needed. • Sunflower oil for deep-frying and fry them for 6-8 minutes, 3 To make the cocktail, pour the turning regularly until golden vodka, elderflower cordial and For the coating and crisp all over. Drain on 50ml rhubarb bitters over plenty • 100g plain flour kitchen paper and leave to cool of ice. Stir and top up with fizzy • 2 medium free-range eggs, before eating. water. Add a good squeeze of Per scotch egg 544kcals, 31.6g lemon juice from one lemon half beaten fat (9g saturated), 27g protein, and a few thin lemon slices from • 150g coarse fresh white 37.1g carbs (3g sugars), 1.8g the other. Garnish and serve. salt, 1.4g fibre Per cocktail 225kcals, no fat, breadcrumbs 0.1g protein, 28.6g carbs (28.6g sugars), no salt, 1 Remove the skin from the trace fibre mackerel and break it into chunks. Put the chunks in the bowl of a food processor, along with the chives, cream cheese, horseradish, lemon zest and lemon juice. Pulse several times to break down the mackerel. Add the mashed potato and pulse again to combine. Try not to over-work it. Season the mixture with a little salt and pepper, then put in the fridge to cool. 26 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

make.eat.share. Strawberry and geranium cordial Makes about 750ml Hands-on time 15 min, plus cooling and straining Simmering time 6-8 min Specialist kit Muslin or thin cotton cloth; sterilised sealable bottle Search ‘how to sterilise KNOW- bottles’ at delicious HOW Strawberry and magazine.co.uk. The geranium cordial – a fruity, flowery cordial will keep for 3-4 weeks taste of summer in the fridge. This refreshing cordial is made with ripe strawberries and infused with rose geranium, • 250g ripe strawberries an easy-to-grow plant with the most aromatic, • Finely grated zest and scented leaves. You can buy rose geraniums from most good garden centres and they do well juice 1 lemon in pots – perfect for a sunny kitchen windowsill. • 200g granulated sugar If you can’t get any rose geranium leaves, you • Handful fresh, scented rose can use unsprayed rose petals instead. Failing that, use a splash of rosewater. geranium leaves (see below left) 1 Trim away the green strawberry stalks. Slice the fruit thickly and pop into a large heavy-based saucepan along with the lemon zest and juice and the sugar. Add 500ml water to the pan. 2 Set the pan over a medium heat and bring to a gentle simmer, stirring once or twice to help break up the fruit a little. Cook the strawberries gently for 6-8 minutes or until soft. Switch off the heat, roughly tear up the geranium leaves to release their essential oils, then drop them in. Give the mixture a stir, then leave it to cool to room temperature. 3 Set a sieve over a large jug and line it with a piece of clean muslin or thin cotton. Pour the cooled cordial mixture into the lined sieve and leave the liquid to drip into the jug. Pour the strained cordial into the sterilised bottle (see Know-how) and chill. Dilute to serve. Per 60ml serving 60kcals, no fat, no protein, 7.2g carbs (7.2g sugars), no salt, 0.3g fibre →

make.eat.share. • 2 tsp dijon mustard • 2 tsp runny honey, plus extra to taste • 1 tbsp cider vinegar, plus extra to taste • 2 tbsp crème fraîche • 2 tbsp good quality mayonnaise • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Recipes taken My mum used to make a Lettuce and celery salad 1 Start by making the dressing. from Outside: good blue cheese dressing. with blue cheese dressing Crumble the cheese into a large, Recipes For I remember her serving it flat-bottomed bowl. Add the A Wilder Way with cool, crisp salad leaves Serves 4 garlic, mustard, honey and of Eating by Hands-on time 20 min, plus vinegar, then season with black Gill Meller and bowls of warm, drying (optional) pepper. Use the back of a fork to (Quadrille crunchy croûtons. She was mash everything to form a coarse £30), out now an intuitive cook, so I can’t • 1 large or 2 small lettuces, such paste. You don’t have to get rid imagine she’d have written as butterhead, cos or little gem of all the lumps. Now mix in the crème fraîche and mayonnaise. down her recipe. It’s not • 1 head tender summer celery Stir in the olive oil and taste. It difficult to go back to that • Small handful chives, sliced may or may not need salt. Adjust kitchen. She’s there, setting • 1-2 handfuls pumpkin seeds the sweetness and acidity with a touch more honey or vinegar. bowls and plates down or walnut halves 2 Separate the lettuce leaves, on the table. I can taste wash them in very cold water and the dressing, I can feel the For the dressing spin dry. If you don’t have a salad texture. I’m opening my • 150g soft blue cheese spinner, drain them in a colander, eyes now and typing it out. • ½ garlic clove, finely grated turning every 10-15 minutes. Separate the celery stems and give them a rinse. Slice them into 1-2cm pieces at a slight angle. 3 Tear the lettuce leaves into a large bowl. Add the celery and spoon over half the dressing. Use your hands (or a pair of salad spoons) to turn the leaves and celery through the dressing. Scatter half the chives over the salad. They should stick to the dressed leaves. Arrange the salad over a large platter. Sprinkle the pumpkins seeds or crumble the walnuts over the top and spoon over the rest of the dressing. Scatter with the remaining chives and season with more black pepper and a good pinch of sea salt. Serve at once. Per serving 349kcals, 31g fat (12.1g saturated), 11.2g protein, 4.9g carbs (3.8g sugars), 1.9g salt, 2.5g fibre NEXT MONTH Raymond Blanc’s taste of summer – in recipe form 28 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

FILLED WITH SWEET MORELLO CHERRY COMPOTE. YOU CAN TASTE WHEN IT’S WAITROSE . SHOP IN STORE OR AT WAITROSE .COM CHERRY BAKEWELL CRUMBLE CAKES Waitrose Summer 2 Cherry Bakewell Crumble Cakes 160g, £3.50, £2.19/100g. Selected stores. Subject to availability. Minimum online spend and delivery charges apply. Prices may vary in Channel Islands, Little Waitrose & Partners and concessions.

Three-cheese pides with egg and salsa verde Let the veg shine Looking to make your summer vegetables more exciting? Chef Josh Katz, celebrated for his big, bold flavours, is your guy. Here, he uses chilli honey to spice up a courgette tart, blackens aubergine for a thick, flavoursome soup and adds green-herb zing to cheesy Turkish pizzas PHOTOGRAPHS JAMES MURPHY FOOD STYLING AYA NISHIMURA STYLING LYDIA MCPHERSON

make.eat.share. “This recipe is one of those grab- what-you-can-find concoctions that ends up far better than you thought possible. The chilli can be omitted if you’re cooking for kids, but it adds a gentle heat that complements the aubergine perfectly” Burnt aubergine soup with rice and herbs

ABOUT JOSH Inspired by the Golders Green Israeli restaurants he loved in his youth, chef Josh Katz opened his restaurant Berber & Q in 2015 – and sent London wild for charred, juicy Middle Eastern shawarma flavours. These recipes are from Josh’s new book (see the last page of this feature) which gives the Berber & Q treatment to vegetables. “A simple, light galette – perfect for a summer lunch or as part of a spread at your next garden gathering” Galette of courgette • 200g mascarpone whisk in the olive oil. Season with with manouri cheese • 100g crème fraîche salt and black pepper to taste. and chilli-honey dressing • Grated zest 1 lemon 2 Heat the oven to 160°C fan/ • 2 garlic cloves, grated gas 4. Line a baking sheet with Serves 4 • 250g all-butter puff pastry baking paper. Put the mascarpone, • 1 free-range egg yolk crème fraîche, lemon zest and Hands-on time 20 min • 100g manouri cheese (see garlic in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Season with salt and Oven time 20-25 min Know-how) black pepper to taste. • 1 large courgette, thinly sliced 3 Roll out the puff pastry to a Manouri is a fresh, creamy • 2 tsp thyme leaves 30cm x 40cm rectangle, 3mm • 2 tbsp olive oil thick. Quarter the pastry to give KNOW- white cheese from 4 x 15cm x 20cm rectangles. HOW For the chilli-honey dressing Put the rectangles on the baking • 1 tbsp honey sheet and brush the egg yolk Greece made with • 1 tbsp lemon juice around the border (see Know- • 1 red chilli, blackened, peeled how). Prick the centre of each sheep’s/goat’s milk. Buy it from rectangle with a fork 5-6 times. and chopped (see Know-how) 4 Smear a quarter of the Waitrose or cheesemongers. • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil mascarpone mix in the centre of each rectangle, then crumble To prepare the chilli, char it in 1 For the chilli-honey dressing, the manouri cheese over it and put the honey, lemon juice and the same way as the aubergines chilli in a small bowl, then slowly opposite, then put it in a bowl and cover with cling film – this will make it easy to peel. To prevent the filling spilling over the edges, use a sharp knife to score a 2cm border around the edge of the pastry – this will puff up and create a barrier.

make.eat.share. arrange the courgette slices on • 1 tbsp sugar Crispy shallots top, overlapping them slightly. • 10g dill, finely chopped Sprinkle with the thyme, some • 10g flatleaf parsley, chopped Makes about 80g salt and pepper, and a drizzle of • 40g crème fraîche Hands-on time 20 min oil. Transfer to the oven and bake • ½ tbsp grated lemon zest Warm 400ml veg oil in a small for 20-25 minutes until the pastry • 2 tbsp crispy shallots (optional pan over low-medium heat until is golden brown and puffed at just shimmering, then add 600g the edges, and the base is crisp. – see recipe, right) thinly sliced shallots and fry, 5 Slide the galette onto a serving • Glug extra-virgin olive oil stirring often, for 15-20 minutes plate and drizzle liberally with until golden. Remove the shallots the chilli-honey dressing. Serve 1 Set up a barbecue for direct from the oil using a slotted immediately while still warm. grilling (coals in the centre of the spoon (reserve the oil for later Per serving 783kcals, 68.8g fat barbecue) – or use the flame of a use) and transfer to a plate lined (35.8g saturated), 13.1g protein, gas hob. (Line the stovetop with with kitchen paper. Season the 26.9g carbs (6.7g sugars), 1.1g foil to reduce the mess.) Pierce shallots with salt and store in a salt, 1.9g fibre the aubergines several times with sealed container for up to 5 days. a fork, then put over the coals or For more ways to use manouri directly over the flame on your cheese see Use It Up stove. Char them all over, turning regularly, until blackened and soft (see Know-how). Once Three-cheese pides cooked, remove and set aside with egg and salsa verde until cool enough to handle. Burnt aubergine soup 2 Peel the aubergines (discard “This is a decadent pide with rice and herbs the skin) and chop the flesh into (a kind of oval Turkish pizza) chunks. Transfer to a bowl, drizzle that does your waistline no Serves 4-6 with 60ml of the olive oil and favours, but it does fill you season well. Set aside while you with the rich joys of life. The Hands-on time 30 min, plus get on with making the soup. acidity in the salsa verde will 3 Add the remaining olive oil to a cut through the richness.” cooling large pan and set over a medium heat. Add the onion and cumin Simmering time 20-25 min seeds and cook, stirring regularly, for 5-7 minutes or until softened. If you don't have a Add the garlic and chilli, then continue to fry for 2-3 minutes. KNOW- barbecue or gas hob, Stir in the tomatoes, then add HOW the stock, rice, lemon juice and sugar. Turn down the heat to low brush the aubergines and simmer for 20-25 minutes Makes 3 large pides (serves 6) until the rice is just tender. About Hands-on time 45 min with oil and char in a hot griddle 5 minutes before the end of Oven time 12 min cooking, add the aubergines to pan or under a hot grill. Turn the soup to warm through. Taste and adjust the seasoning (if the regularly until blackened evenly. soup is too thick, you could thin it with a little extra stock). 4 Ladle the soup into bowls, then The dough can be made garnish with the herbs, a dollop • 3 medium aubergines of crème fraîche, lemon zest and MAKE 36 hours ahead (see • 90ml olive oil crispy shallots, if you like. Finish AHEAD • 1 large onion, chopped with the extra-virgin olive oil and • 1 tbsp cumin seeds serve piping hot. recipe overleaf). Prepare • 3 garlic cloves, grated Per serving 259kcals, 14.6g fat • 1 red chilli, sliced (3.7g saturated), 3.6g protein, the sauce up to 48 hours ahead, • 3 large tomatoes, diced 26g carbs (8.9g sugars), 0.8g • 800ml veg stock, plus a little salt, 4.5g fibre pour into a sealable container extra (optional) and lay cling film directly on the • 120g long-grain rice, well surface to stop a skin forming. rinsed and drained. • 1½ tbsp lemon juice Chill until needed, then warm through in a pan or microwave. This recipe makes 3 large KNOW- pides. You can make 4-5 HOW smaller ones and simply use 4-5 eggs as required. → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 33

make.eat.share. • Plain flour to dust indent a small well in the middle half the amount (2.5g). Prepare • 3 pide dough balls (see right) for an egg yolk. Fold the sides the dough in the same way. • 3 medium free-range eggs of the pide inward, crimping the • 2 tbsp melted butter dough firmly at each end. • 5g fresh yeast • 1½ tbsp za’atar 5 Dust a pizza peel with some • 35ml warm (26-29°C) water • Extra-virgin olive oil flour and very carefully transfer • ½ tsp runny honey the pide onto it. Or use a flour • 175g strong bread flour For the salsa verde dusted or baking paper-lined • 125g ‘00’ flour • 2 tsp dijon mustard baking sheet instead. • 3g fine salt • Juice 2 lemons 6 Transfer the pide to the hot • ½ tbsp olive oil, plus extra • 1 tbsp sherry vinegar pizza stone/baking sheet in the • 120ml extra-virgin olive oil oven, then bake the pide for 3-4 to grease • Large handful each parsley, minutes (in a pizza or wood oven) • 135ml ice-cold water or 6-8 minutes in a standard mint and tarragon, chopped oven until golden brown and 1 Combine the yeast, warm • 2 garlic cloves, minced crisp around its edges, rotating water and honey in a bowl and • 40g capers, rinsed and roughly it halfway through to ensure it whisk to dissolve the yeast. cooks evenly. About 2 minutes Set aside for 10 minutes to give chopped before the pide is finished, crack the yeast time to activate. The an egg into the centre, rotate the mixture should start to bubble For the cheese sauce pide and return it to the oven. and foam – if it doesn’t, discard • 75g unsalted butter 7 Remove the pide from the oven the yeast and start again with • 75g plain flour and brush the edges with melted a different batch. • 750ml milk butter. Sprinkle with za’atar and 2 Put the flours in the bowl of a • 75g cheddar, grated salt flakes, then dollop the salsa stand mixer fitted with a dough • 75g parmesan or a vegetarian verde all over and finish with a hook, add the salt, oil and cold final drizzle of olive oil. Repeat water. Run the mixer on its lowest alternative, grated with the remaining pides. Slice speed for about 1 minute, then • 90g halloumi, grated and serve immediately. add the yeast mixture and mix Per serving (for 6) 755kcals, for 5-7 minutes until the dough 1 For the salsa verde, combine 50.2g fat (22.8g saturated), comes together as a smooth the mustard, lemon juice and 27g protein, 46.6g carbs (6.5g mass (it should be soft but not vinegar in a bowl and slowly sugars), 2.9g salt, 4.3g fibre sticky). If the dough feels too whisk in the olive oil to thicken. sticky, add a little more flour and Stir in the remaining ingredients, Pide dough continue to mix. Transfer the season, then set to one side. dough to a lightly oiled bowl, 2 For the cheese sauce, melt the Makes 3 x 150g dough balls cover with a damp cloth and rest butter in a heavy-based pan over Hands-on time 15 min, plus for 1-1½ hours or until the dough a medium heat, then whisk in the about 3 hours resting and rising has roughly doubled in size. flour to form a paste (or roux). Specialist kit Stand mixer with 3 Turn out the dough onto a Slowly pour in the milk, roughly dough hook lightly floured work surface 100ml at a time, whisking and knead for 2-3 minutes, then continuously. Turn down the heat You can refrigerate the form into 3 equal balls weighing to low-medium and simmer for 150-160g. Transfer the balls 10-15 minutes until thickened, MAKE risen dough balls, well to a lightly oiled tray, arranging then stir in the cheeses and AHEAD them roughly 5-7cm apart. season with salt to taste. Set Double-wrap loosely with aside, keeping warm until needed. wrapped, for up to cling film and leave to rise for 3 Heat your oven to its highest 1-2 hours, or until the balls Recipes possible setting. (If you have a 36 hours. Remove from the have roughly doubled in size taken from pizza oven, heat it to 350-400°C.) (see Make Ahead). The dough Berber & Q: Put a pizza stone or large baking fridge 2-3 hours before baking. is now ready to shape as a base On Vegetables sheet in the oven to heat up. for pides, flatbreads or pizzas. by Josh Katz 4 Lightly flour a work surface Buy fresh yeast from Per ball 389kcals, 3.2g fat (£25 Kyle and roll out a dough ball to an (0.7g saturated), 10.2g protein, Books) oval shape, about 35cm x 15cm. KNOW- Ocado and the bakery 77.7g carbs (1.2g sugars), Spread the cheese sauce down HOW 1g salt, 4g fibre NEXT MONTH the length of the base, leaving Homemade a 2.5cm border. Use a spoon to section of large slaws for your barbecue supermarkets. Leftovers will keep chilled for several days – or divide into 10-12g portions, wrap, then freeze in an ice tray for up to 3 months. If you can’t find fresh yeast, use dried instead – you’ll need 34 deliciousmagazine.co.uk



Introducing... A burger with a difference Here’s a great idea for the barbie: a juicy, lightly spiced patty made from the UK’s most sustainable meat: venison. We predict love at first bite Spiced venison burger • 2 tsp dark brown sugar and sugar to the remaining • 800g venison mince (from onions and cook, stirring Makes 6 occasionally, for 6-8 minutes Hands-on time 50 min, plus good butchers or online or until dark and caramelised. cooling, chilling and resting suppliers, see opposite page) Set aside to cool completely. • 250g fresh beef suet (from 2 Put the uncaramelised onions, Make the burgers up good butchers; see Know-how) venison, suet, paprika, chilli • 1 tbsp smoked paprika flakes, pine nuts, garlic, MAKE to 48 hours in advance. • 1 tsp chilli flakes thyme, oregano and flour in AHEAD • 30g pine nuts, lightly toasted a bowl. Season well. Use your in a dry pan hands to combine well, then Keep them covered in • 2 peeled garlic cloves, divide into 6 portions and shape blanched in boiling water into round patties. Put on a tray the fridge and remove 1 hour for 2 minutes, refreshed in lined with baking paper and chill cold water, then finely chopped for 30 minutes (see Make Ahead). before cooking to come up to • ¼ bunch thyme, leaves picked 3 When ready to cook, heat a • ¼ bunch oregano, leaves picked barbecue or frying pan to a room temperature. • 1 tsp plain flour or rice flour medium heat. Brush the patties • 150g cheddar, sliced with extra oil and season lightly You can freeze the patties in • 6 soft burger buns, split and with salt, then cook for 2-3 lightly toasted minutes on each side for a sealed tub for up to 1 month. medium-rare or until cooked to To serve your liking. Top the patties with Fresh suet is the crumbly • Dijon mustard cheese when cooking on the • Roughly torn iceberg lettuce second side and let the cheese KNOW- fat from around the • Sliced tomato melt onto each patty (see HOW • Tomato relish Know-how). Rest for 5 minutes. 4 To serve, spread each bun with kidneys. You can buy the 1 Heat the oil in a large frying mustard and top with lettuce, pan over a low-medium heat, sliced tomato, a burger, relish dehydrated, flour-added version then add the onions and salt. and the caramelised onions. Cook, stirring, for 20 minutes Per serving 903kcals, 61.2g fat (‘shredded’) in supermarkets but or until softened and golden. (29.3g saturated), 44g protein, RECIPE: MARK LABROOY. PHOTOGRAPH: BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS Remove a third of the onions 41.9g carbs (8.3g sugars), for this recipe you need fresh and set aside to cool completely. 2.3g salt, 4.6g fibre Add the wine (if using), vinegar suet. As venison is a naturally lean meat (wild meat tends to have less fat because the animals lead active lives foraging for lower-energy foods), the suet gives the burgers succulence. To help the cheese melt, cover the frying pan with a lid or baking tray. • 60ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to brush • 3 large onions, thinly sliced • 1 tsp sea salt flakes • 2 tbsp red wine (optional) • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 36 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

favourites. Why is venison more sustainable? In the UK, wild venison is mostly sourced from deer living as close to a natural life as possible. They’re culled to control their numbers, and this management is important to maintain the biodiversity of the landscape and reduce the impact of too many animals on the land. The UK no longer has the natural predators that would fulfil the role of keeping deer numbers down, and selling the meat ensures it doesn’t go to waste. Find wild venison at specialist suppliers such as deerbox.co.uk, wildvenison.co.uk or wildmeat.co.uk.

Yorkshire Tea’s most dazzling brew

voices in food. How to survive having people to stay Ah, visitors… Such a joy – as long as they whisk themselves off for a nap mid-afternoon. Debora Robertson recommends food prep, job delegation, a judicious amount of eating out – and scones FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: LAUREN MILLERW henwelived “You’re hoping to convey the sense in London, we of ease that used to be achieved frequently had with a household of highly people to stay. trained staff, but there’s no Our house was need to go the full Downton” a convenient place for our friends, family and often mere I am an idiot. I have accidentally become a acquaintances to drop their bags and seaside landlady. As I write this, we are at the themselves in transition from some terrible tail end of a succession of visitors with only airport (they’re all terrible airports now, a day or two between each one: a wine writer aren’t they?) to other points in the country. friend who tagged a few days on the end of Or for those coming into town for meetings, a press trip to visit us; three of our closest parties, exhibitions and plays. friends who arranged a surprise birthday I loved it. Slummocking about in dressing weekend for a fourth; a friend who had been gowns in the morning, or sitting over the working very hard and needed a little sea-air last of the wine in the evening blesses each break; my mother- and father-in-law, sister- friendship with a new degree of intimacy not and brother-in-law’s first visit. always attainable when sitting bolt upright in a smart restaurant with your finest face and What can I say? It’s a lot of laundry and shoes on. For those of our best beloveds who enough trips to the bottle bank to get my lived far away, a weekend of eating, drinking steps in. Here are the conclusions I’ve gleaned and sitting about the place could make up for from this period of intense sociability, my a year’s worth of regular lunches and dinners. notes from the field, on how to have people Anyone who lives in London or any big city to stay without losing your mind. will be familiar with requests from those close to you to put up a friend, a niece or nephew for As with all things, planning ahead a bit can a few days. I almost always said yes to these make everything feel in the moment. You’re requests, as I’m a firm believer in the angel- hoping to convey the sense of ease that used at-my-table school of welcoming people. (It to be achieved with a household of staff, but comes from the Bible verse, ‘Do not neglect there’s no need to go the full Downton. You to show hospitality to strangers, for thereby can recruit your visitors into specific roles: some have entertained angels unawares.’) chief loader of the dishwasher; understairs We have made many great friends, some pan scrubber; layer of breakfast tables; angelic, some decidedly otherwise, this way. master of full wine glasses. In my experience, When we moved to southwest France last people love a job and it ensures everyone → year, I expected a slightly quieter existence. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 39

“While we’re here, a few words of advice on how to be a good guest. These aren’t aimed at you, obviously, but you might want to leave this page open, all casual, by the bed of those who might be staying with you” is included in creating the jollity of the masses. Buttermilk lemon scones When it comes to food, wash lettuce, make “Having people to stay is the perfect excuse to fit more meals into the day than is entirely necessary, such as or buy dips, cut up crudités and have plenty of brunch or afternoon tea. It’s essential to work quickly and olives and crisps on hand so you always have gently making these scones, to coax them into lightness” the makings of a lunch or snack to go with drinks. Bake a tart, make a good soup and Makes 12 scones Using the fine side of a box a casserole, and prep a roast and vegetables Hands-on time 20 min grater or a Microplane, grate so everything is ready to go without too much Oven time 15 min the zest from the lemon directly stress or last-minute fuss. Specialist kit 6cm round into the bowl – this ensures you pastry cutter don’t lose any of the fragrant I always try to take guests on at least one citrus oil. Be careful not to grate trip to a market because it’s all the more Instead of the lemon in any bitter white pith. interesting to eat a cheese or a loaf of bread 3 Reserve 3 tbsp of the when you’ve spoken to the person who made NEXT zest, add 2 tsp vanilla buttermilk in a small bowl. Make it, and it helps give visitors a literal and TIME a well in the middle of the flour metaphorical flavour of the place. Arrange mixture and pour in the rest of one or two visits to local restaurants too, if you extract with the the buttermilk. With a butter can. I try to go high-low, one smart place, one knife, quickly work it into a casual place. Here, it might include dinner at buttermilk. sticky dough. Turn it out onto the restaurant in a grand Haussmann-style a lightly floured surface or onto building, all starched napkins and classic If you can’t find some cling film dusted with flour, sauces, and lunch at an oyster shack on the edge then gently coax the dough into of the lagoon, with views out across the water DEBORA’S buttermilk, either mix a circle. Roll it out with a floured towards Sète. You don’t have to be Einstein to TIP rolling pin until it’s 2cm thick. Dip work out that shellfish + bread and butter + a a 6cm round pastry cutter into bottle of picpoul + view = supreme happiness. some yogurt with a some flour and begin to cut out your scones, placing them quite While we’re here, a few words of advice on generous splash of lemon juice close together on the prepared how to be a good guest. These aren’t aimed at baking sheet as you go. Gently you, obviously, but you might want to leave or add a squeeze of lemon to press together any scraps and this page open, all casual, by the bed of those continue cutting until you’ve who might be staying with you. Blessed are whole milk and let it stand for used up the dough. the guests who love to read, take a walk by 4 Brush the tops of the scones themselves or are believers in the powers of an 5 minutes before using it. with the reserved buttermilk and afternoon nap. Much as we adore to see people, put them in the oven to bake everyone needs a little restorative time alone • 400g self-raising flour, plus until they lift easily from the FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: LAURA EDWARDS. FOOD STYLING: JOSS HERD. STYLING: TABITHA HAWKINS to recharge batteries, shop, do laundry. Making a little more for dusting baking sheet and are golden on everything look effortless takes time, and you top – about 13-15 minutes. may even need a little nap yourself. While • 1 tsp baking powder Per scone 209kcals, 7.5g fat almost everyone loves flowers, chocolates • ½ tsp salt (4.5g saturated), 4.1g protein, and good wine, a little space in the day is the • 100g very cold unsalted 30.7g carbs (5.5g sugars), greatest hostess gift you can ever give. 0.6g salt, 1.3g fibre butter, cut into small cubes Recipe from Debora’s new • 50g caster sugar book, Notes from a Small • 1 small, unwaxed lemon Kitchen Island • 280ml buttermilk (see (Michael Joseph £26) Debora’s tip) 40 deliciousmagazine.co.uk 1 Heat the oven to 200°C fan/ gas 7. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat (I use a Silpat) or baking paper. 2 Put the flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl and whisk them all together. Briskly rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips until it resembles coarse crumbs, with a few little nuggets of butter left in the mixture. Whisk in the sugar.

voices in food.

Roast of the month Salmon gets the barbie treatment Who said roasts aren’t for summer? Cook this beauty in the oven or on your grill. The salmon-and-cucumber combo gets an update with smoky and pickled flavours – just add a green salad and new potatoes for a full-on feast Glazed roast salmon with For the salmon barbecue and, when the coals pickled cucumber salsa • 2 tbsp white miso paste are ready, spread them out • 2 tbsp honey around the edges (or to one side Serves 8-10 • 2 tbsp pomegranate in a barrel barbecue) to create Hands-on time 20 min, plus a central/side area of indirect at least 1 hour marinating molasses heat. Put the salmon skin-side Cooking time 20-25 min • Finely grated zest and down either on a baking sheet in Specialist kit Barbecue with a lid the oven or directly on the hot (or you can use the oven) juice 1 lime barbecue (see Know-how), above • 1-1.4kg salmon side, skin on, the part where there are no coals, To serve four, use so you’re cooking on indirect heat. scaled and pin-boned (ask the 4 Roast the salmon for 20-25 SCALE salmon fillets and halve fishmonger to do this) minutes, with the lid down if IT DOWN • Bunch Thai basil (leaves you’re using the barbecue (see picked), lime wedges and good Know-how). The timing will vary the recipe for the quality mayo to serve according to the size of the RECIPE: JULES MERCER. PHOTOGRAPH: SEAN CALITZ. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS salmon (and the heat of the remaining ingredients. 1 For the salmon, mix the miso barbecue) but you can check if with the honey, pomegranate it’s done with the tip of a knife: To make barbecuing molasses and lime zest and press the flakes of salmon apart juice. Spread this over both – it’s cooked when they’re firm KNOW- easier, put the salmon sides of the salmon, then put and no longer translucent. HOW in the fridge to marinate for 5 Carefully remove the salmon at least 1 hour – or overnight. from the oven or grill and put on a piece of foil, then 2 For the pickled salsa, mix the on a platter, then top with the lime zest and juice, sugar, white pickled salsa, basil leaves and on the grill. This will make it wine vinegar and sumac in a an extra sprinkling of sumac. bowl, then whisk until the sugar Serve immediately with lime easier to remove, but the skin has dissolved. Add the chilli, if wedges and mayonnaise. using, then stir in the cucumber Per serving (for 10) 265kcals, won’t crisp as much. Use and red onion. Set aside for 15.5g fat (2.8g saturated), 21.4g 30 minutes or more (up to protein, 9.6g carbs (8.2g sugars), 2 slotted turners/spatulas to 3 hours) to pickle. 0.5g salt, 0.8g fibre 3 If you want to cook the salmon move larger pieces of salmon. in the oven, heat it to 200°C fan/gas 7. Otherwise, light the For the pickled salsa • Finely grated zest and juice 1 large lime • 2 tbsp caster sugar • 3 tbsp white wine vinegar • 1 tsp sumac, plus extra to sprinkle • 1 red chilli, sliced (optional) • 1 cucumber, very finely sliced (a mandoline is useful here) • 1 red onion, finely sliced 42 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

make.eat.share.

Chill-out feast Ben Tish’s three-course menu is a symphony of Mediterranean flavours – make the tart ahead of time, pop the lamb in the oven to slow-cook in the afternoon, then all you have to do is prepare the simple starter PHOTOGRAPHS SEAN CALITZ FOOD STYLING JESS MEYER STYLING SARAH BIRKS

menu. YOUR MENU FOR 4 Courgettes stuffed with feta, crème fraîche, anchovy, chilli and fried breadcrumbs Slow-cooked lamb shoulder, beetroot and carrots with mint and garlic vinaigrette Rhubarb and pistachio syrup cake “Shoulder of lamb is my favourite cut, and slow cooking renders the fat into the meat, making it succulent. The Moorish spices evoke a southern Mediterranean table” deliciousmagazine.co.uk 45

Courgettes stuffed bowl, crumble in the feta, add with feta, crème fraîche, the chilli, anchovies, lemon zest anchovy, chilli and and juice, dill and a drizzle of fried breadcrumbs olive oil, then season well and mix. When the courgettes are Serves 4 tender, divide the crème fraîche mix evenly among the shells, Hands-on time 20 min then return to the oven for 8 minutes or until the top starts Oven time 35 min to brown and the mixture is hot. 4 Meanwhile, heat a frying pan Find round courgettes over a medium heat, add a good glug of olive oil and, when hot, KNOW- in greengrocers or fry the breadcrumbs until golden HOW brown and crisp. Season well, then set the breadcrumbs aside buy online from until ready to serve. 5 To serve, sprinkle the finefoodspecialists.co.uk. breadcrumbs on top of the filling, garnish with extra dill Make the filling and and lemon, then put on the lids, slightly off centre. Serve with MAKE breadcrumbs up to extra crumbs on the side. AHEAD Per serving 319kcals, 26.5g fat (14.6g saturated), 9.4g protein, BEN’S CULINARY JOURNEY 1 day ahead. Store the 9.4g carbs (4.6g sugars), 0.8g After cutting his teeth working under salt, 2.7g fibre Jason Atherton, delicious. regular filling in the fridge until ready Ben Tish made his name as a chef and partner in the Salt Yard Group to assemble. of small-plates Mediterranean restaurants in London. He became • 4 large green round courgettes the culinary director of The Stafford (see Know-how) London hotel in St James, and in 2019 opened Norma restaurant in • Olive oil to drizzle Fitzrovia to great acclaim. This year • 150ml crème fraîche he joined the executive team at • 100g feta Cubitt House, a group of central • 1 red chilli, deseeded and London pubs, to revitalise their food offering while opening two new finely chopped (use less if London sites. He’s written five you don’t like chilli) cookbooks, most recently Moorish • 2 anchovy fillets, drained and and Sicilia. finely chopped • Grated zest and juice ½ lemon, 46 deliciousmagazine.co.uk plus extra juice • 5 dill sprigs, fronds picked and roughly chopped, plus extra for garnishing • 1 sourdough bread slice, crusts removed, chopped with a knife or pulsed in a blender to form rough crumbs 1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ Slow-cooked lamb gas 6. Slice the tops off the shoulder, beetroot and courgettes about 1.5cm down carrots with mint and to form lids. With a teaspoon, garlic vinaigrette scoop out the seeds and most of the flesh, leaving a shell of Serves 4-6 flesh about 0.5cm thick. 2 Trim a thin slice off the base Hands-on time 30 min, plus of the courgettes so they stand straight, then arrange them on a at least 4 hours marinating roasting tray with the lids to the side. Drizzle with oil and season and resting well, then roast for 25 minutes until just tender. Don’t overcook Oven time 4 hours – you need the courgette shells to hold their shape. The vinaigrette can be 3 While the courgettes cook, spoon the crème fraîche into a MAKE made up to 1 day ahead AHEAD – add the torn mint leaves just before serving to avoid them browning. The lamb can be marinated up to 2 days ahead and kept in the fridge. →

menu. “Roasted round courgettes make the perfect stuffing vessel and look fantastic with their lids popped back on top. I also like stuffing them with wild rice and fresh herbs with a sharp blue cheese”

• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped golden, then remove from the • 90g semolina flour • 4 anchovy fillets, drained and oven and rest for 30 minutes. • 2 heaped tsp baking powder 5 For the vinaigrette, heat the • 150g unsalted butter, chopped 150ml olive oil over a medium • 1 tbsp smoked paprika heat with the garlic slices and softened, plus extra to grease • 1 tbsp ground cumin mint stalks. When the garlic • 3 medium free-range eggs • 2 tsp ground cinnamon starts to sizzle, remove from the • 130g thick greek yogurt • 3 thyme sprigs heat and cool. Discard the mint • 3 rosemary sprigs stalks, then whisk in the vinegar 1 Put 215g of the caster sugar, • Grated zest and juice 1 orange and season well. Roughly tear the lemon zest, juice and 200ml • 100ml extra-virgin olive oil, the mint leaves and stir into water in a small saucepan over the vinaigrette. a medium heat. Stir until the plus extra to drizzle 6 To serve, transfer the lamb sugar dissolves, then increase • 1.8kg lamb shoulder, bone in and resting juices to a serving the heat to high and bring • 500g carrots dish and surround with beets to the boil. Reduce the heat to • 300g young beetroot, leaves and carrots. Spoon over some of low-medium and simmer for the dressing and serve the rest 2 minutes or until the syrup trimmed on the side. The lamb should be thickens. Stir in half the rhubarb, so tender that it can be cut and then set aside to cool. For the vinaigrette served with a spoon and fork. 2 Heat the oven to 160°C fan/ • 150ml extra-virgin olive oil Per serving (for 6) 683kcals, gas 4. Grease and line the bottom • 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 46.7g fat (12.8g saturated), and sides of the springform tin. • ½ bunch fresh mint, stalks and 56.6g protein, 7.2g carbs (6.5g Whizz the pistachios in a food sugars), 0.7g salt, 4g fibre processor until finely ground. Sift leaves separated the flour, semolina and baking • 100ml red wine vinegar Rhubarb and pistachio powder into a large bowl, then syrup cake stir in the ground pistachios. 1 Mix the garlic, anchovies, 3 In a separate bowl, use an spices, herbs, orange zest and Serves 10 electric mixer to beat the butter juice with the 100ml oil and lots Hands-on time 30 min and remaining 155g sugar until of seasoning. Put the lamb in Oven time 1 hour pale and creamy. Add the eggs, a bowl and pour the marinade Specialist kit 20cm round 1 at a time, beating well after all over it, massaging it into the springform tin each addition. Fold in the flour meat. Cover and put in the fridge mixture and yogurt until fully to marinate for at least 4 hours Both the cake and syrup incorporated, then add the or overnight. Remove from the remaining rhubarb pieces. fridge an hour before cooking. MAKE can be made up to Spoon the cake mixture into 2 Heat the oven to 140°C fan/ AHEAD the prepared tin and smooth gas 2. Put the lamb with its the top. Bake in the oven for marinade in a large casserole or 2 days ahead. Store 1 hour or until a skewer pushed roasting tin. Wet a large sheet of into the centre comes out clean. baking paper, then lay it over the in separate airtight containers. 4 While the cake is still warm, lamb, tucking in the sides. Cover use the skewer to pierce holes the casserole/tin tightly with foil Don’t spoon the rhubarb on top all over the surface. Pour the or a tight-fitting lid, then cook rhubarb syrup over the cake, for 3½ hours or until the lamb of the cake until ready to serve. reserving the soaked rhubarb. is very tender and juicy. Set aside to cool in the tin. 3 While the lamb is cooking, put To give the cake an Transfer the cake to a serving the carrots and beetroot onto plate and top with the reserved 2 separate foil squares. Season KNOW- eye-catching finish, use rhubarb and any remaining and drizzle with oil, then scrunch HOW syrup. Sprinkle with extra the foil to enclose the vegetables. chopped pistachios to serve. Roast alongside the lamb for the vibrant green Pariani Per serving 491kcals, 24.9g fat final hour of cooking until tender. (11.8g saturated), 9.7g protein, 4 Once the lamb is tender, (Sicilian) or Iranian pistachios. 56.4g carbs (37.8g sugars), uncover it and increase the oven 0.5g salt, 1.2g fibre temperature to 220°C fan/gas 9. • 370g caster sugar Roast the lamb for 20 minutes • Grated zest and juice 1 large more until caramelised and unwaxed lemon • 200g thin-stemmed rhubarb, ends trimmed and sliced into 2cm pieces • 160g shelled pistachios, plus extra to decorate (see Know-how) • 150g plain flour, plus extra to dust

menu. “Day-glow-pink rhubarb is a delight to cook with. Not only does it look stunning, its sweet tang works so well in baking. I’ve added some to the cake for moisture and texture, and turned the rest into an intense syrup to spoon over the top” deliciousmagazine.co.uk 49

One from the heart “Today we made borsch. It nourished us and made us feel stronger” When Russia invaded Ukraine on 24 February, the world changed for millions. Award-winning food writer Olia Hercules, whose family live in her Ukrainian homeland, was plunged into despair. She couldn’t cook; she couldn’t eat; but a fire in her belly gave her the strength to co-found the Cook for Ukraine campaign, which has raised over £1 million. And she has rediscovered cooking as solace, sharing hope and nurturing through one very special dish