Delicious UK 07.2022_downmagaz.net

voices in food. E  verysinglemorninginMarch based in Berlin, was able to offer them the sanctuary and April I would send a of his empty holiday home. message to my parents: How are you? If they replied, it was I flew to Italy to arrive at the house ahead of them. a fairly good day. If they were I knew they would be unimaginably exhausted. I silent, it was not, so I would wanted them to enter the house and feel at least a tiny bit at home, with familiar smells and bubbling, give them space and ask the the gentle susurration of the stove… Perhaps even same question the following day. flowers in a vase and a cold life-saving beer. And then one morning a hopeful answer came from I arrived in the morning and walked to the local my mum: “Today we made borsch, and it nourished supermarket. What an array of ingredients – monk’s us and made us feel stronger. I really feel like it’s an beard, puntarelle, all types of artichokes, the cheeses, element of our DNA.” Immediately, I knew there was the pastas! In another life, I’d have squealed at this a turning point, maybe a shift from the initial shock cornucopia, a food lover’s dream. But this time was and trauma into the next stage, whatever this may be. different. No fresh beetroot but some pre-boiled? I admire how strong and stoic my parents were Okay. No dill in sight, but we would have to manage. at that time. Especially because I myself could no And finally, success: a good pollo per brodo (a boiling longer eat and could not cook. A friend of a friend chicken) at the butcher counter – the key element of a started sending me a medicinal Chinese broth good borsch. The bird was corn-yellow, wiry and tough every week in the post. It was the thing that saved – full of flavour, no doubt, just like at home. My basket me, as I could only manage to drink, not chew. soon filled up with white onions and carrots, a young Losing my ability and desire to cook felt strange, cabbage, some panna acida (soured cream)... Hurray! like losing a part of myself. Before, whenever I got back to the house and, with trepidation, I felt stress or a hint of depression started preparing the first proper approaching, I would cook. Something “Soon enough the airy meal since the big war started. What bread-related usually. The soft dough pleasure, finally, and relief. The under the ball of my palm, its kitchen was filled with chicken’s skin was torched with a stickiness, its comforting sweet-sour familiar smells and dodgy lighter to get rid of the stubbly aroma, the repetitive movements… It’s feathers on the legs and wing tips. The the ultimate act of mindfulness. The hope – smells of onions were diced and the carrots sensory repetition that forces you to comfort, not hurt” roughly grated. The bottle of excellent observe the moment, to let go of the passata? No need for that pinch of RECIPE: OLIA HERCULES. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: SEAN CALITZ. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS insistent buzz of anxiety – preparing sugar. The firm potatoes and squeaky RECIPE ADAPTED FROM SUMMER KITCHENS BY OLIA HERCULES (BLOOMSBURY £26) food was not just work for me or a cabbage were chopped – and I didn’t quotidian family chore, it was an act of self-care. even cry this time. Soon enough the airy kitchen was When Ukraine was invaded, cooking suddenly felt filled with familiar smells and hope, of comfort, not painful. Instead of healing me, it made me hurt. I hurt. I picked some dandelions, daisies, buttercups realised the act of cooking was interwoven so tightly and a single rose from the garden. They went on the within my brain with my family and my homeland that table, into the dusk-lit spot, for atmosphere. The simply chopping through a cabbage made me burst essential beers were chilled and olives put on the into tears. And how dare I feel comforted by cooking table. The massive pot of borsch was almost spilling when my loved ones and my countrymen are in over the edge… I overdid it in my cooking fervour. danger and I am not? It just didn’t feel right. They arrive! We hug and squeeze, I help to bring I begged my parents to leave Kakhovka, my numerous bags upstairs – whatever of their lives home town. They resisted for so long – why should they thought was most essential to bring. One small they leave? How could they leave? Their lives suitcase is full of family photos and another of mum’s were there: their house, their garden, fruit and embroideries. We cry, we laugh, I give them borsch. pine trees, animals, employees, their livelihood and I’m not happy with it – the cabbage got overcooked roots. But finally, after they witnessed my panic while we faffed with the luggage; the pre-boiled attack over a video call, they agreed. I told them if beetroot makes it taste so-so; there’s no dill... I’m anything happened to them, I would never forgive embarrassed, but Mum assures me it’s great. myself for not convincing them. It took them 16 hours “How are you?” There are still times when I receive and 19 check points to make the initial part of the no answer – though safe now, they’re homesick and journey out of the occupied Kherson region, and heartbroken. But mum wants to plant some dill in then five days of driving to northern Italy, where Ihor’s garden, and I will bring some beetroot seeds my mum’s nephew, Ihor, a critical-care surgeon in June… Turn the page for Olia’s borsch recipe → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 51

voices in food. “After a sleepless night on 24 February, my close friend, fellow food writer Alissa Timoshkina, messaged me to ask after my family and find out if I was going to the protest. We met there and embraced for comfort and warmth on that cold, windy day – and for a moment felt totally helpless. Then Alissa mentioned CookForSyria, a project that food influencer Clerkenwell Boy and his team initiated a few years back. Both of us had been involved – I provided a recipe for the book and Alissa organised a fund-raising event. We thought we could run a similar campaign, hoping at least to help promote and educate people about Ukrainian food culture, and perhaps raise a little money for Unicef. A few months later, there are well over 11,000 hashtags on Instagram and over £1 million raised through our JustGiving page. Ukrainian dishes are being cooked and events being organised in every corner of the planet. We knew people would care, but we could never have guessed that CookForUkraine would become a global movement.” OLIA HERCULES Want to help? Visit these websites: • Cookforukraine.org • Justgiving.com/fundraising/cookforukraine Borsch • Good glug olive oil stirring, until it softens (about • 1 onion, finely diced 10 minutes), then add the carrot Serves 4-6 • 1 large carrot, coarsely and cook for 5 minutes more. Hands-on time 30 min, You’re looking to slightly plus overnight soaking grated caramelise the onion and carrot, (if using dried beans) • 2 pink or red beetroot, peeled to draw out the sugars. Next, Simmering time 45-60min add the beetroot and red pepper (if using dried beans) and cut into matchsticks and cook for 2 minutes before • 1 red pepper, thinly sliced stirring in the tomatoes. If using dried beans, start • 400g tin chopped tomatoes 4 Boil for a few minutes, then tip the contents of the frying pan MAKE the day before. Put in (or fresh, roughly chopped) into the saucepan with the stock AHEAD • ½ small white cabbage, and potatoes. Add the cabbage and drained beans. Simmer for a large bowl, cover with thinly sliced 3-4 minutes – if the consistency • Crème fraîche and chopped is very thick after this time, add lots of water and soak overnight. more stock or water to loosen. dill fronds to serve Taste the soup and adjust Once made, the soup will keep the seasoning: it should be 1 If using dried beans, drain sour-sweet and well seasoned. for several days in the fridge. the soaked beans and cook in 5 Ladle the soup into bowls and a saucepan of boiling water for serve with crème fraîche and Loosen with stock or water 45-60 minutes or until soft. a few chopped fronds of dill. 2 Pour the stock into a large Per serving (for 6) 301kcals, when reheating as the beans and saucepan, put on the hob over 10.8g fat (5g saturated), 17.7g a medium-high heat and bring to protein, 26.2g carbs (11g sugars), potatoes will soak up the liquid. the boil. Add the potatoes to the 0.8g salt, 14.2g fibre pot and boil for about 7 minutes. • 150g dried borlotti beans, 3 Meanwhile, heat a good glug soaked overnight (see Make of olive oil in a large frying pan Ahead), or 200g (drained over a low-medium heat. When it weight) tinned borlotti beans, sizzles, add the onion and cook, rinsed • 1.5 litres fresh chicken stock, plus a little extra (optional) • 2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 3cm chunks 52 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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Big up the berry bounty The sweet joys of the sunny season are finally here... Make the most of them in these fruity puddings Stay cool with strawberry ice cream shortcake RECIPES ESTHER CLARK PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS FOOD STYLING JESS MEYER STYLING LAUREN MILLER 54 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

make.eat.share. Sun’s out, raspberry cream maritozzi buns out

American-style together with your fingertips Per serving (for 8) 590kcals, deep-dish blueberry until the mixture resembles fine 25.4g fat (15.3g saturated), and peach pie breadcrumbs (you could also 7.1g protein, 81.6g carbs do this part in a food processor). (39.8g sugars), 0.7g salt, Serves 6-8 Stir in the icing sugar. Whisk 3.8g fibre the egg yolk with 2 tbsp Hands-on time 30 min, plus ice-cold water and the lemon juice. Quickly stir this into the chilling/resting flour mixture with a table knife. If it seems a little dry, add a little Oven time 50 min more ice-cold water (the dough will come together when lightly Specialist kit Deep 23cm pie dish kneaded so don’t add too much water as this will leave you with Make the pastry, wrap a tough pastry). Bring the dough together with your hands, turn MAKE well and store in the out onto the worktop and knead AHEAD very briefly to avoid overworking the pastry. Pull off a third of the fridge for up to 2 days dough, form both pieces into discs, then wrap well and chill or in the freezer for up to for 2 hours (see Make Ahead). 2 Meanwhile, toss all the 3 months. Defrost before rolling. ingredients for the filling in a large bowl, then set aside for Because the filling is quite 30 minutes. Once the pastry has chilled, roll the larger piece wet, the pie is best baked soon of dough on a lightly dusted worktop into a roughly 30cm after filling, but the cooked pie circle. Use this to line the pie Strawberry ice cream dish, leaving some overhang. Fill shortcake will keep chilled for 2-3 days. with the blueberry filling. Roll out the remaining pastry to the Serves 8-10 Search ‘lattice’ at same size as your dish, cut out Hands-on time 20 min, plus 8 strips, then arrange in a lattice at least 6 hours freezing KNOW- deliciousmagazine.co.uk on top of the filling (see Know- Specialist kit 20cm springform HOW how). Press around the edges of cake tin the pie to join the lattice strips for a visual guide to to the base, then trim any overhang and crimp the edges. weaving a perfect pie top. 3 Heat the oven to 170°C fan/ gas 5, putting a baking sheet in Cooking the pie on a hot tray the oven as you do so to warm up (see Know-how). Brush the conducts more heat to the pastry pastry with the beaten egg, then sprinkle with the demerara base, ensuring it cooks through. sugar. Chill in the freezer for This quick homemade ice 10 minutes (or in the fridge for cream is made sublime with DON’T Lightly whisk the unused 20-30 minutes), then transfer its strawberry swirls and WASTE the pie directly onto the hot chunky shortbread bits. egg white, then freeze to baking sheet in the oven and bake for 50 minutes or until the IT use in a meringue. pastry is golden brown. Leave the pie to sit for 15 minutes or • 350g plain flour, plus extra so, then serve with whipped The shortcake will keep to dust cream or vanilla ice cream. MAKE for up to 1 week in the • 1 tsp fine sea salt AHEAD • 225g cold unsalted butter, freezer, though it’ll taste cut into cubes • 50g icing sugar best eaten within 3-4 days. • 1 medium free-range egg yolk, We’ve used strawberries, plus 1 whole egg, lightly beaten, to glaze EASY but the recipe works • 1 tbsp lemon juice SWAPS • 2 tbsp demerara sugar • Whipped cream or vanilla ice just as well with any cream to serve berries you fancy – blackberries, raspberries or a mixture. For the filling • 1 tbsp vegetable oil to grease • 500g blueberries • 600ml double cream • 5 tbsp cornflour • 150ml condensed milk • Finely grated zest and juice • 200ml fresh vanilla custard • 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 2 lemons • 200g strawberries, hulled, • 3 peaches or nectarines, plus extra to decorate stoned and cut into wedges • Juice 1 lemon • 160g golden caster • 2 tbsp liquid glucose • 1 tbsp icing sugar sugar • 180g good-quality shortbread biscuits, broken into chunks 1 First make the pastry. Put the 1 Grease the cake tin with oil flour and salt in a large bowl, and line the base with baking then add the butter and rub paper. Whisk the double cream, condensed milk, custard and → 56 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

make.eat.share. Crisp pastry encasing a rich, fruity filling... What more can you ask for in a dessert? American-syle deep-dish blueberry and peach pie – deep joy indeed!

vanilla with a pinch of salt until • 1 tbsp vanilla bean paste These delightful enriched- you have a thick consistency • 75g meringue nests, plus dough buns from Italy are as that just holds its shape (try light as a cloud and filled with not to overwhip). extra, crumbled, to serve a raspberry cream to finish. 2 Put the strawberries, lemon juice and liquid glucose in a food 1 Put 250g of the raspberries in The filled buns are best processor, then whizz to a purée a blender/food processor with (or use a stick blender). Add the the crème de cassis and the MAKE eaten straightaway, but strawberry purée and 100g of 2 tbsp icing sugar. Whizz until AHEAD the shortbread to the cream smooth, then push the mixture mixture, then gently stir through through a sieve with the back the elements can be several times to create a marbled of a wooden spoon, directly into effect. Pour the mixture into a bowl to make a coulis (discard made ahead. Store the cooked the prepared tin, then top with the pulp and seeds). 30g more broken shortbread. 2 In a large bowl, use an electric buns in an airtight container for Wrap well, then freeze for at mixer to beat the cream, vanilla least 6 hours or overnight. paste and remaining 70g icing up to 1 day or freeze for up to 3 Half an hour before you want sugar until pillowy with a thick, to serve, take the ice cream droppable consistency (scoop 3 months. The raspberry cream out of the freezer. Just as the some up on a wooden spoon, edges are starting to melt hold the spoon sideways and filling will keep for 1 day in the slightly, ease it from the tin and tap it on the edge of the bowl put on a serving plate. Top with – the cream should drop off fridge. It will firm up over time. more strawberries, sliced reluctantly). Pour in the coulis or whole (whatever you prefer) and break in the meringue nests, You can use blueberries, and the remaining 50g broken keeping some nice chunky shortbread. To serve, cut into pieces. Add the remaining EASY blackberries or wedges, as with a cake. raspberries, then gently fold SWAPS Per serving (for 10) 475kcals, everything together with a large 39.8g fat (24g saturated), metal spoon, just until the coulis strawberries instead 3.2g protein, 25.2g carbs is rippled through the cream. (15.9g sugars), 0.2g salt, 3 Portion into 6-8 glasses or of raspberries if you like. 1.2g fibre small bowls, then serve topped with extra crumbled meringue • 300ml whole milk if you like (see Make Ahead). • 530g strong white bread flour, Per serving (for 8) 646kcals, 53.9g fat (33.5g saturated), 2.9g plus extra to dust protein, 29.5g carbs (38.6g • 1 tbsp fast-action dried sugars), 0.1g salt, 2.1g fibre yeast Raspberry cream • ½ tsp fine sea salt maritozzi buns • 1 medium free-range egg yolk • 70g runny honey Makes 10 buns • 60ml olive oil, plus extra to Hands-on time 1 hour, plus rising/proving grease Cooking time 20 min • 300g raspberries • 400ml whipping cream • 70g icing sugar, plus extra to serve + COVER STAR 1 Heat the milk in a small pan until lukewarm (not hot). In a Boozy raspberry stand mixer fitted with a dough summer mess hook, combine the flour, yeast and salt, then add the egg yolk. Serves 6-8 Mix the honey and olive oil into the warm milk, then pour this Hands-on time 20 min into the flour. Mix on a low speed until a rough dough forms. Turn The covered pudding will up the speed to medium, then knead for around 7 minutes until MAKE keep for up to 24 hours smooth and elastic (the dough AHEAD will be a little stickier than normal bread dough). in the fridge but will firm (Alternatively, mix by hand up the longer you leave it. in a large bowl, then turn out onto a lightly floured work Swap the crème de surface and knead for 10-12 minutes until smooth and elastic.) EASY cassis for another fruity SWAPS Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, cover and leave to liqueur or leave out for rise in a warm place for 1-1½ → a family-friendly version. • 500g raspberries • 100ml crème de cassis (we love White Heron British Cassis) • 70g icing sugar, plus 2 tbsp for the coulis • 800ml double cream 58 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

make.eat.share. Boozy raspberry summer mess The much-loved classic gets a twist with raspberries and a generous measure of cassis

If the coffee flavours of classic tiramisu aren’t for you, how about a berry makeover and a shot of limoncello? This is best made a day ahead to set it firmly and give the flavours a chance to develop hours or until doubled in size. The tiramisu is best Gradually add the mascarpone 2 Divide the dough into 10 equal mixture to the egg yolk mixture, pieces. Roll each one into a ball, MAKE made a day before you stirring after each addition, until pinching the underside to create AHEAD incorporated. a smooth, neat dome on top. 4 In a small pan, heat the cream Arrange on 2 lined baking trays, want to serve it. Cover until steaming (don’t boil), then leaving plenty of space between turn off the heat. Squeeze the the dough balls, then cover with any leftovers and keep for 1-2 gelatine to remove any excess a damp clean tea towel and leave water, then stir it into the hot to prove for 30 minutes. About days in the fridge. cream until fully melted. Add a 10 minutes before you’re ready spoonful of the egg/mascarpone to bake, heat the oven to 180°C • 500g mixed berries, such as mixture to the gelatine cream, fan/gas 6. Bake for 18-20 blueberries, raspberries, mixing well. Stir this gelatine minutes or until risen and a deep blackberries and sliced mixture back into the egg/ golden brown, rotating the trays strawberries mascarpone mixture, then halfway through so the buns gently mix to combine. brown/cook evenly. Transfer to • Juice 1 large lemon 5 Whisk the egg whites in a a wire rack to cool completely. • 2 tbsp icing sugar large clean bowl to stiff peaks 3 Meanwhile, whizz 200g of the • 160ml limoncello (that won’t flop over when you raspberries in a food processor, • 6 sheets platinum-grade lift the beaters out). Stir 1 large then push through a fine sieve scoop of the egg whites into the using the back of a wooden gelatine – we used Dr Oetker mascarpone cream, then gently spoon to remove any seeds. • 4 medium free-range eggs, stir/fold in all the remaining egg Whip the cream, icing sugar and whites to give a thick, light, raspberry purée until light and separated mousse-like mixture. mousse-like, then roughly crush • 100g caster sugar 6 Lay one third of the sponge the remaining 100g raspberries • 500g mascarpone fingers evenly over the base of and stir them into the whipped • 4 tbsp lemon curd the prepared tin. Add half the cream. Cover and store in the • 75ml double cream macerated berry mixture with fridge until ready to assemble. • 200g savoiardi sponge fingers half their juice. Top with half the 4 Split each bun down the • 50g pistachios, roughly mascarpone cream, then smooth middle but keep the halves into an even layer. Repeat the attached on one side. Pipe chopped layers, then finish with a final or spoon in some cream, then layer of sponge fingers. Drizzle smooth the top and sides with 1 To prepare the tin, line the sides the reserved 2 tbsp limoncello a spatula. Dust each bun with with lengths of strong foil folded over the sponges, then cover extra icing sugar to serve. in half to give extra rigidity. Start with cling film. Chill for at least Per bun 473kcals, 23g fat with the longer sides of the tin, 4 hours or overnight. (11.8g saturated), 8.4g protein, ensuring the foil comes about 7 When ready to serve, remove 56.6g carbs (16g sugars), 6cm above the height of the tin, the cling film from the tiramisu, 0.3g salt, 3.1g fibre then repeat with the remaining then carefully invert the tin onto sides. (The mixture is slightly a serving plate or board. Peel Berry tiramisu with larger than the tin but it’s not off the foil, then top with the limoncello and pistachios very weighty, so you just need remaining berries and pistachios. the foil to extend the tin a bit.) Cut into generous slices to serve. Serves 8-10 2 Put 400g of the berries in a Per serving (for 10) 503kcals, Hands-on time 45 min, plus mixing bowl. Add the lemon juice, 29.1g fat (16.3g saturated), 10.2g at least 4 hours chilling icing sugar and most of the protein, 40.8g carbs (34.1g Essential kit 14cm x 24cm x 7cm limoncello, reserving 2 tbsp. sugars), 0.3g salt, 1.9g fibre deep baking tin or loaf tin Set aside to macerate for 1 hour. 3 Soak the gelatine leaves in a small bowl of cold water to soften for 5-8 minutes. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks and caster sugar for 5 minutes until thick and pale. Using a wooden spoon, beat the mascarpone and lemon curd in a separate bowl to soften. 60 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

make.eat.share. Okay, so the Italians wouldn’t call it tiramisu – but you’re gonna love it!

Chef ’s secret recipe Avinash Shashidhara of Fitzrovia restaurant Pahli Hill salutes the king of Indian summer fruit with this creamy, juicy and aromatic creation Alphonso mango • 3 platinum-grade gelatine cheesecake leaves (soaked in a small bowl of cold water for 7-8 minutes Serves 8-10 to soften) Hands-on time 20 min, plus at least 2 hours chilling/setting 1 Lightly grease and line the cake Specialist kit 18cm springform tin with baking paper. Mix the or loose-bottomed cake tin crushed digestive biscuits and (see Know-how) melted butter in a bowl, then tip into the cake tin and press down Make up to 2 days evenly to form the base. Chill while you prepare the filling. MAKE ahead, to the end 2 Put the cream cheese, double AHEAD cream and caster sugar in a large bowl and whisk to soft peaks of step 4. Unmould (when you lift out the beaters the peaks formed will flop over). and decorate the cheesecake Fold in the chopped mango. 3 Remove the gelatine from the when you’re ready to serve. water and give the leaves a good squeeze to get rid of any excess Leftovers will keep for 1-2 days water. Put straight in a small pan over a very low heat to melt in the fridge but the base will – this won’t take more than a minute (see Know-how). begin to soften. 4 Add some of the cheesecake PORTRAIT: PATRICIA TOBIN. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: LAUREN MILLER mixture to the pan and stir to If you can’t get hold of cool the gelatine, then fold the contents of the pan into the EASY alphonso mangoes, use rest of the cheesecake mix. SWAPS Pour the mixture over the biscuit base, then smooth over any ripe mangoes. the top. Cover and chill for at least 2-3 hours or until set. You can use any tin up 5 To serve, remove the cheesecake carefully from the KNOW- to 23cm, but the base tin and decorate the top with HOW the extra sliced mangoes. Per serving (for 10) 444kcals, and filling will be thinner. 31.4g fat (19.1g saturated), 4.3g protein, 35.3g carbs (27.2g Melt the gelatine briefly over sugars), 0.6g salt, 2g fibre A BIT ABOUT AVINASH a very low heat – it melts at Born and raised in Bangalore, Avinash worked at Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus and spent 31-35°C and exposure to high 10 years at The River Café before running supper clubs inspired by his Indian roots. temperatures will lessen its He’s now head chef at London’s Pahli Hill, which opened in October 2020 with a setting power. menu of regional small plates that draws on the tradition of Indian home cooks • 100g unsalted butter, melted, exchanging recipes. Downstairs is the plus extra for greasing cocktail bar Bandra Bhai, fitted out to evoke an Indian smugglers’ den. • 200g digestive biscuits, finely @AvinashShashidhara crushed (about 12 biscuits) @pahlihillbandrabhaiuk pahlihillbandrabhai.com • 450g full-fat cream cheese (the delicious. testers used 62 deliciousmagazine.co.uk Philadelphia) • 180g double cream • 175g caster sugar • 3 large alphonso mangoes (2 stoned, peeled and chopped; 1 stoned, peeled and sliced into ribbons for the topping)

voices in food. “Mangoes were a huge part of my upbringing in southern India. There are more than 250 varieties but alphonso are considered to be the king of mangoes, with the perfect blend of buttery texture and floral aroma. This light, easy, no-bake dessert showcases the fruit beautifully.” AVINASH SHASHIDHARA NEXT MONTH Akwasi Brenya- Mensa’s aubergine stew

In full bloom Ah, that fluffy white coat promising gooey creaminess within. Camembert, brie, chaource… These are cheeses with widespread appeal, and in recent years British cheesemakers have muscled in on the act, producing superstar examples to rival France’s best T he best place for most mouldy food is in in Normandy using raw milk from herds containing the compost bin, but not when it comes Normande cows. Look out for makers Gillot and to cheese. The snowy white bloomy rinds Graindorge, and serve the cheese with Normandy’s of camembert and brie are actually other great food produce, apples and cider. a living landscape colonised by a fluffy white mould called Penicillium camemberti. Rather than a fault, AN EXTENDED FAMILY this edible member of the fungus family is positively There are plenty of other members of the French encouraged because it gently breaks down the mouldy cheese family. Chaource, a drum-shaped chalky interior to a delicious goo that’s tailor made cheese from Champagne, has a crème fraîche tang for smearing on crusty bread at picnics or serving and two-tone texture, while brie de melun is smaller molten and hot at garden parties. than meaux and has a punchy, saltier kick. There’s also an entire sub-genre of decadent mould-ripened NEXT MONTH THE FRENCH CONNECTION ‘triple cream’ cheeses, bolstered with double cream. RECIPE: SOPHIE PRYN. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: SEAN CALITZ. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE PRYN. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS Raising the baa The big hitters in bloomy mould-ripened cheeses have Délice de bourgogne and brillat-savarin are both – the top sheep’s historically come from France, especially east of Paris outrageously rich, and call for the refreshing acidity milk cheeses in the Île-de-France region. That’s the birthplace of and cleansing bubbles of champagne. brie, most famously brie de meaux, which is protected under EU law and must be made with raw cow’s milk. BRITISH BLOOMERS Mass-produced, generic bries (which can be made Cheesemakers in the UK haven’t been shy in taking anywhere) are often stabilised – a production trick inspiration from France. Suffolk’s acclaimed baron that means they never fully ripen beyond a milky bigod is about as good as brie can be and has seriously flavour and rubbery softness. But true brie de meaux dented French cheese sales on British counters, from producers such as Dongé and Rouzaire breaks while camembert-style tunworth from Hampshire down to a soft, silky consistency with earthy aromas counts Raymond Blanc as a devotee. It’s wonderful of cabbage and wild mushrooms. Match it with studded with garlic and herbs, then baked in the oven kimchi and strong Belgian ale to increase the funk until molten and attacked with crostini. even further. (Incidentally, such lactic microbial cheeses – when not cooked – are usually probiotic There are also several excellent brie-style and good for your gut health.) cheeses made with other types of milk, such as sweet and floral wigmore (sheep) from Berkshire It’s a similar story for brie’s smaller, chunkier and Somerset’s mild and milky little lilly (goat). cousin, camembert. The name ‘camembert’ isn’t protected, so it can be made anywhere, but camembert The only question left is whether to eat the rind de normandie is the original and best. Guarded by a or not. There’s no obligation, but that fluffy white Protected Designation of Origin, it must be produced coat is where a lot of the flavour resides. My advice? Go on, embrace the mould. It’s blooming marvelous! 64 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

cheese time. Camembert and roasted For the rocket pesto pulse in a food processor), then grape picnic loaf • 50g walnuts, toasted in a hot stir in the oil and season. Cut the top third off the loaf to create Serves 6-8 dry pan and roughly chopped a lid, then pull out the soft bread • 4 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked from the base (see Don’t Waste It), Hands-on time 25 min leaving a 2-3cm thick shell. Repeat and finely chopped with the lid. Spread the pesto Oven time 30 min • 1 small garlic clove, chopped over the inside of the base and lid. • 2 tsp runny honey 3 Put the bottom half of the DON’T Whizz up the bread from • 50g rocket, roughly chopped camembert in the centre of the WASTE • 50ml extra-virgin olive oil base. Arrange some ham around inside the loaf to make it, followed by some rocket. Spoon IT breadcrumbs, then freeze 1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/gas some grapes and roasting juices 6. Put the grapes and rosemary over the top and around the edge, for pangrattato or a crumb coating. on a baking tray, then drizzle with then put the other half of the the oil and honey; season and toss cheese on top. Fill any gaps with • 250g seedless red grapes to coat. Roast for 30 minutes until the rest of the ham, rocket and • A few rosemary sprigs the grapes are blistered and soft. grapes, then put the lid on. Cut • Olive oil to drizzle Set aside to cool completely. into wedges to serve. • 2 tsp runny honey 2 Meanwhile, make the pesto. Put Per serving (for 8) 419kcals, • 650g round sourdough loaf the walnuts, rosemary, garlic and 18.3g fat (5.9g saturated), 16.3g • 200g ripe camembert, sliced in honey in a pestle and mortar and protein, 45.5g carbs (8g sugars), crush to combine. Gradually add 1.5g salt, 3.5g fibre half horizontally to give 2 discs the rocket, crushing to a coarse • 160g French torchon ham paste before adding more (or or other good ham (‘torchon’ means wrapped in cloth – it keeps it moist during roasting) • Large handful rocket

BETTER THAN half price offer 12 ISSUES FOR £29.99 Loving this copy of delicious. magazine? SUBSCRIBE TODAY AND SAVE 57%† CALL NOW ON 01858 438424* QUOTING OFFER CODE PDLC0722 66 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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THRIFTY WAYS TO SPEND LESS ON FOOD AND FUEL With bills and prices 1BUY IN BULK I’m not talking fresh stuff that spoils easily and ends up rising at an alarming getting thrown out – I mean products that don’t require fridge/freezer rate, many people are space such as rice, pasta, noodles, dried pulses, nuts, oils and some asking: how can we seasonings. Buy in larger quantities and they’re significantly cheaper shop and cook more per gram. Our online article about the best online shops for regional ingredients (search ‘cuisine specific grocers’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk) wisely? delicious. is useful, as these shops often sell goods in bulk for a lot less than writer Thea Everett, chain-store prices. The ‘World Food’ aisle in supermarkets is good, too – look on the bottom shelf for the biggest, cheapest packets. Stocking up queen of thrifty on long-life essentials (ketchup, tea, sugar, tinned foods) when they’re cooking, draws on advice from experts 2 on offer saves money in the long run. INVEST IN ENERGY-SAVING GADGETS Pressure cookers and air known for their fryers may be pricey up front, but they pay you back in reduced energy money-saving wisdom bills. Pressure cookers drastically reduce the time needed to prepare slow-cook meaty casseroles, beans and lentils, for example, and air and shares her fryers can save on oil and energy costs. You can cook chips in an air tried-and-tested tips fryer in 10 minutes, and fillets of fish are done in just 4 minutes. Not to mention your kitchen won’t smell like a greasy spoon. 68 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

3ENJOY NO-COOK MEALS Using the oven and hob eats up fuel so, while cost-cutting special. the weather’s warm, plan to make perhaps two meals a week without DON’T BE SCARED OF heat: think salads, dips and fridge desserts. Look up our collection at CHEAPER INGREDIENTS deliciousmagazine/nocookbudget to explore a range of fuel-less recipes. So says bestselling author 4USE THE WHOLE VEGETABLE Don’t throw away the trimmings – 113415make stock by boiling veg peel/ends (celeriac peel and celery/leek ends are particularly good for this) in water with salt, bay leaves and peppercorns, then portion and freeze. MAKE SOUP! Ramp up the flavour of on-the-turn veg by roasting them with seasoning and spice before whizzing into soup with veg stock. Simmer on the hob with a parmesan rind to impart bucketloads of savoury depth. (Stash rinds in the freezer whenever you come to the end 5of a wedge and you’ll always have one on hand.) Jack Monroe (also known as PROLONG THE LIFE OF HERBS Larger packets cost less per gram, @cookingonabootstrap and but they do need careful storing: wrap in dampened kitchen paper or sit famed for her expertise in writing in a jar of water in the fridge. After a week, when they’re wilting, whizz about poverty issues): “Sunflower and freeze any leftovers (see Tackle Food Waste, below). oil makes a fine salad dressing, and you can make a perfectly PUT A LID ON IT When bringing water to the boil on the hob, cover the passable risotto with 45p per 1kg pan – it reduces the heating-up time and therefore saves energy. And use broken long-grain rice.” No one is going to notice you used chopped 6the minimum amount of water – you really don’t need a big pan of water mixed nuts in your pesto instead of fiendishly expensive pine nuts. to cook pasta. The same goes for filling the kettle for hot drinks. GET SORTING Organise your MAKE FRIENDS WITH YOUR FREEZER As Shivi Ramoutar states in fridge and cupboard so things her book The Ice Kitchen, “Freezers are the way forward for making with shorter use-by dates are your shopping cost-effective, as you can buy produce in bulk… and cook at the front, then plan meals around what needs to be used up. 7larger batches of meals to freeze, making the cost per meal cheaper.” DO A STOCKTAKE Says Jack If you only have small pans and ovenproof dishes, it’s worth investing Monroe: “One of my best tips for in a couple of bigger vessels so you have the capacity to bulk-cook. keeping the food shop down to £20 a week is to do a full stocktake TACKLE FOOD WASTE Employ your freezer to prolong the life of surplus every now and then... I get an A4 sheet of lined paper and divide 8food, too. Oranges, lemons and over-ripe (peeled) bananas can all be it into four vertical columns: proteins, carbohydrates, fruit bagged and frozen whole for future cake baking. Or slice citrus fruit and and veg, then the end column is open-freeze, then bag up for using in drinks straight from the freezer. split into two: flavours and snacks. Herbs on their last legs? Whizz them up, freeze in ice cube trays, then I go through the fridge, freezer pop out the cubes, bag them up and use in soups, sauces and stews straight and cupboard and note down from the freezer. Stale bread? Whizz to crumbs, then bag up or box and every single thing. When I’m freeze. Ginger freezes well, too – but peel first and cut into usable portions. feeling extra meticulous I weigh EMBRACE YOUR MICROWAVE It costs less per kWh to reheat leftovers it all, but usually I estimate the number of units or portions. It’s 9in the microwave than in the oven, but cover with a lid (left ajar) to keep revolutionised the way I cook and shop and reduces impulse texture and flavour. Fancy a jacket potato? Save fuel costs by cooking for purchasing of things I don’t need, reduces food waste and keeps the 106-8 minutes in the microwave, then finish and crisp the skin in a hot oven food bill low.” (the smaller top oven if you have one) or in an air fryer for a few minutes. ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES FILL THE OVEN Throw an extra dish/pudding/potato in the oven when it’s already in use to make the most of the energy. BULK IT OUT Adding pulses to meat dishes means you can use less (more 1 1costly) meat, and they’re a great way of filling people up, says Ian Burnsall, aka the Skint Roofer (a finalist on Channel 4’s Great Cookbook Challenge): “Bulk out a chilli con carne using more kidney beans than you normally 12would – you can pick up a 400g can for as little as 40p.”



PHOTOGRAPH: ANDREW MONTGOMERY. ALWAYS DRINK RESPONSIBLY Drinks Pink tipples, hot-weather beers and a flowery cooler Cocktail of the month This month’s creation from country boy Gill Meller is the montgomery – and it’s a celebration of summer in a glass. Find the recipe in Gill’s picnic feature ››

Susy’s Best buys Everything’s coming up rosé! Expert Susy Atkins selects the best pink drinks Match Mayu Titon Vineyard Syrah Gran Reserva STILL ROSÉS of the 2017, Elqui Valley, Chile 14.5% month Ben’s lamb on p46 deserves a ripe and robust Domaine St Felix Cuvée Pierre Martin red to match it. This Chilean syrah from the 2021, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 12.5% cooler, high-altitude northern Elqui region has A pale copper-pink, this grenache-cinsault plenty of cassis, but still tastes smooth and blend has a more citrus than red berry fresh. There’s a hint of dark chocolate, too. appeal, with oranges and dried orange peel £13.99, or £9.99 as part of a mixed six, Majestic at its heart and a peachy note. On the finish it’s dry and slightly salty – good with pork pâtés or rillettes. £9.50 or £8.95 each for a 12 bottle case, leaandsandeman.co.uk Aldi Specially Selected Côteaux de Beziers 2021, Chassaux et Fils, France 12.5% One of my best buys of the whole summer, a southwest French rosé that’s bursting with juicy cherries and red apple, finishing dry. It’s softer and easier than some more expensive Provence pinks. A bargain. £5.99 Mirabeau X Rosé 2021, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France 12.5% Mirabeau’s pinks just get better and better – this one has a lovely creaminess with freshly picked strawberries. It’s dry but has wonderful depth of flavour; very classy. Chill it for prawns or langoustines. £12, The Co-op 72 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

drinks. VINEYARD PHOTOGRAPH: SANDRIDGE BARTON WINES BLUSHING SPARKLERS A weekend among the vines Marks & Spencer Prestige Cava Rosé Keen to brush up your wine appreciation and learn more about Brut NV, Spain 12% the art of winemaking? If so, check out The Crush Course at the Bright and lively Spanish fizz with the beautiful Dartington Estate in Devon. The residential weekend tang of red cherry drops and some red combines viticulture theory, wine tastings and a day of hands-on apple flavour too. It’s dry but not too dry, winemaking. I went along and found myself treading grapes and would be a fine match for barbecued (squelchy), disgorging sparkling wines (splashy) and touring prawns and grilled peppers. vineyards (splendid). Best of all were the sociable evening £10 meals sampling interesting bottles. The next Crush Course runs 9-11 September 2022. Visit dartington.org/the-crush-course Waitrose Rosé Champagne NV, France 12.5% SOFT AND ROSY This bright, cerise-tinted champagne is made from 100% pinot noir and has New London Light Midnight Sun Non- relatively rich flavours of cranberry and Alcoholic Aperitif, Devon, England 0% fresh rhubarb with a hint of vanilla. It will I like the complex and natural flavours stand up to cold meats and the half-bottle created by the Salcombe Distilling is perfect to take along on a picnic for two… Company. There are savoury notes of £14.99 for 37.5cl, down to £12.99 from pine and kelp, together with fruity ones 29 June to 12 July of elderberries and sea buckthorn. It’s spenny, but since it’s best topped up Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference one part to three parts tonic, a little goes Prosecco Rosé Brut 2021, Italy 11.5% a long way. £27.50 for 70cl, Amazon A decidedly superior pink prosecco from one year, with a good balance between SPIRIT OF THE MONTH slight sweetness and fresh, tangy red berries. Gorgeously frothy and Marks & Spencer Rhubarb Gin, vivacious party pop. Boudier, France 37.5% £10 A new fruity gin from M&S, and the good news is it isn’t too sweet, unlike many examples. Instead there’s a natural flavour of rhubarb, which is distilled rather than added at the end, and a fresh, dry finish. Top up with tonic or sip on the rocks. £20 for 70cl

drinks. Beer school Quench lessons On a hot day, says Mark Dredge, a good beer is all about the three Rs: refreshment, refreshment, refreshment W hat do you imagine when I use the QUEER BREWING FLOWERS phrase ‘lawnmower beer’? I spend WITBIER, ENGLAND 4% a lot of time thinking about how to tell you enough about a beer for you to A wheat beer brewed with decide whether you’d like to drink it. coriander seed and orange There are lots of ways to do that – some poetic, some peel, with a soft texture and listy, with abstract terms like ‘rich’ or ‘clean’. Another way is to get to the point, with two words evoking as floral aromas. Good with much of a sense of the beer as a paragraph of flavours. falafel (see bottom left). Lawnmower beer does that, I reckon. It tells us it’s £4 for 440ml, a simple brew that’s going to be refreshing after shop.cloudwaterbrew.co some work on a hot day. Perhaps you don’t have a lawn to mow, so it could HOWLING HOPS TROPICAL be a post-run refresher, a barbecue DELUXE, ENGLAND 3.8% beer or a picnic beer. Shift seasons Tropical Deluxe is a perfect and we might want a fireplace beer. two-word tasting note for this hazy pale ale with its juicy Tasting notes help guide us, but tropical fruit aromas and light sometimes we choose a drink that bitterness. Great with kebabs. suits a moment or mood – it’s about feeling more than flavour. July’s £17 for 6 x 440ml, feeling is for light, thirst-quenching howlinghops.co.uk beers that are easy-drinking with a moderate ABV – and as delicious drunk LOST & GROUNDED HELLES, ice-cold from the can as they are poured into a glass. ENGLAND 4.4% markdredge.com A Bristol-brewed German- A REFRESHING BEER style lager with a soft COMBINATION FACT Throw a herby carbonation, a smooth malt falafel burger Shandy is one of the body and a lemony hop on the barbie to most refreshing enjoy with Queer flavour. Great with sausages. Brewing’s floral summer drinks and £2.75 for 440ml, Waitrose and fruity Flower even Charles Dickens Witbier – find enjoyed a ‘shandygaff,’ Find more picks at the recipe as it was known back deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ at delicious then. As an alternative magazine.co.uk to lager and lemonade, beerschool try pale ale with NEXT MONTH grapefruit soda. New wave Brit lagers 74 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPH: SEAN CALITZ. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS Make. Easy food for busy days. Family friendly recipes. Life. A fruity cake in the tin. Leftovers all used up. Simple. ››

FIRE UP the grill! Who said barbecues are only for the weekend? Make the most of the balmy summer nights with these easy midweek winners RECIPES AND STYLING Tandoori paneer JESS MEYER AND SOPHIE PRYN skewers with yogurt PHOTOGRAPH SEAN CALITZ STYLING SARAH BIRKS cucumber salad

simple. Pomegranate- glazed aubergines and courgette tabbouleh deliciousmagazine.co.uk 77

Tandoori paneer 1 minute). Crush in a pestle and For the tabbouleh skewers with yogurt mortar, then mix with the onion, • 180g quinoa, ideally a mixture cucumber salad lemon juice, garlic and a pinch of salt. Set aside for 15 minutes to of white, red and black Serves 4 quick-pickle, then stir in the sliced • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil cucumbers, mint and yogurt. • Juice ½ lemon Hands-on time 25 min 2 Meanwhile, mix the paneer, • 1 small garlic clove, chopped ginger, tandoori paste, yogurt, • 200g cherry tomatoes, sliced Essential kit Skewers (soak oil and peppers in a bowl with a • 1 courgette, coarsely grated pinch of salt, ensuring the paneer • 30g parsley, roughly chopped wooden ones for 30 min) and peppers are well coated. • 4 mint sprigs, leaves picked Thread the paneer, peppers and onions onto skewers, alternating. and roughly chopped Drizzle with a little oil, then cook with the BBQ lid down, turning For the dressing once or twice until the veg are • 3 tbsp tahini tender and the paneer is a little • Squeeze lemon juice charred – about 10 minutes. • 3 tbsp ice-cold water 3 Serve the skewers with the cucumber salad and, if you like, 1 Prepare the barbecue for rice, poppadums and mint leaves. Cook the skewers under Per serving 433kcals, 20.8g fat direct heat (for cooking right (8g saturated), 33.5g protein, NO a hot grill for 8-10 24.7g carbs (21.6g sugars), over the coals; or see alternative BARBIE? 0.7g salt, 6.4g fibre minutes until cooked cooking instructions above). through and slightly charred. Score the aubergine flesh in a Swap the paneer for criss-cross without cutting the EASY halloumi, or use mixed skin. In a small bowl, mix the SWAPS veg instead. pomegranate molasses, maple syrup and cumin seeds with • 2 x 225g blocks paneer, cut a drizzle of oil. Drizzle the into 3cm cubes aubergines with oil and barbecue • 3cm piece ginger, grated • 3 tbsp tandoori paste skin-side down for 10 minutes • 6 tbsp natural yogurt • 2 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle until tender. Flip, then brush the • 2 red peppers, cut flesh side with most of the into 4cm chunks • 2 red onions, cut glaze. Adjust the coals, then into 4cm chunks cook indirectly for 8-10 minutes • Basmati rice and poppadums with the lid down, flipping (if you’re not avoiding gluten) to serve halfway through, until sticky and charred. Set aside on a plate and brush with the remaining glaze. Pomegranate-glazed 2 Meanwhile, for the tabbouleh, aubergines and courgette tabbouleh follow the pack instructions to Serves 4 cook the quinoa, then rinse and For the cucumber salad Hands-on time 20 min drain well. Put the olive oil, lemon • 2 tsp cumin seeds • 1 red onion, finely diced juice (setting aside a squeeze for • Juice 1 lemon • 1 small garlic clove, crushed the dressing) and garlic in a large • 2 cucumbers, thinly sliced • Small bunch mint, leaves finely Heat the oven to 200°C bowl and whisk to combine, then chopped (reserve a few whole NO fan/gas 7. Put the add the tomatoes, courgette, leaves to serve, if you like) BARBIE? • 200g natural yogurt aubergines cut-side mint and quinoa. Season and mix. down on a tray and cook for 15 3 Stir the remaining squeeze of minutes, then flip, brush liberally lemon into the tahini, then with glaze and roast for 15-20 gradually whisk in the water to minutes until tender and sticky. make a smooth sauce. Divide the quinoa among plates, top each 1 Prepare the barbecue for • 2 large aubergines, halved with an aubergine half and direct heat (for cooking right lengthways over the coals; or see alternative drizzle with dressing to serve. cooking instructions above). • 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses For the salad, lightly toast the • 1 tbsp maple syrup Per serving 436kcals, 23.9g fat cumin seeds in a dry pan (about • 1 tsp cumin seeds, crushed • Olive oil for drizzling (3.4g saturated), 11.7g protein, 38.3g carbs (14g sugars), 0.1g salt, 10.1g fibre → 78 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

simple. Pork and corn tacos

Korean-style barbecue chicken wings with charred potato salad Serves 3-4 Hands-on time 20 min Simmer time 10 min Cook the chicken in a NO 180°C fan/gas 6 oven on BARBIE? a lined tray, turning once These wings will fly off or twice, for 18-20 minutes until the plate cooked through and slightly charred. Cook the parboiled potatoes in a griddle pan over a high heat, turning regularly, for 8-10 minutes until tender and slightly charred. Gochujang is a Korean EASY chilli paste. Find it in SWAPS Asian grocers and larger supermarkets. Swap for another (Thai chilli paste, chipotle or harissa all work) or use sriracha. • 2 tbsp olive oil • 3 tbsp gochujang paste (see Easy Swaps) • 3 tbsp runny honey • 1 tbsp soy sauce (or tamari if you need it to be gluten free) • 2cm piece ginger, grated • 1kg free-range chicken wings • Sesame seeds, toasted in a dry pan, and coriander to serve (optional) For the potato salad • 500g new potatoes, larger ones halved • 2 tbsp olive oil • 100g kimchi, drained, roughly chopped (see Be A Better Cook for a recipe or buy ready-made) • 5 tbsp good quality mayo • Juice 1 lemon • Bunch spring onions, chopped • Crispy fried onions to serve (optional but recommended!) 1 Prepare the barbecue for direct heat (for cooking right over the coals; or see alternative cooking instructions above). For the potato salad, parboil the potatoes in a large pot of salted boiling water for about 8 minutes until slightly tender.

simple. Drain and set aside to steam-dry • 2 tsp coriander seeds for 5 minutes, then toss with the • 2 tsp cumin seeds oil and season with salt. • 2 garlic cloves, bashed Barbecue, turning regularly, until • 4 tbsp cider vinegar tender and charred, then toss in • 1 tsp brown sugar a large bowl with the rest of the • Small bunch coriander, leaves salad ingredients. Set aside. 2 Meanwhile, for the chicken, and stalks finely chopped mix the oil, gochujang, honey, • 6 small wheat or corn tortillas soy, ginger and a good pinch of salt in a large bowl. Toss in the and crumbled feta to serve chicken, turning to coat, then cook on the barbecue, turning 1 Prepare the barbecue for direct and basting with any leftover heat (for cooking right over the marinade as the wings cook, coals; or see alternative cooking until cooked through, sticky and instructions above). Pat the pork slightly charred (10-15 minutes). chops dry, then rub with 1 tbsp 3 Sprinkle the chicken with oil and season well with salt. Grill sesame seeds and coriander if the chops, corn and chillies you like, then serve with the (turning them all) until the corn potato salad. and chillies are lightly charred Per serving (for 4) 706kcals, and the pork is cooked through to 45.9g fat (8.5g saturated), 36.9g your liking (they should read 63°C protein, 34.6g carbs (7.2g sugars), or over on a probe thermometer). 1.5g salt, 3.5g fibre Cook the limes cut-side down for 1-2 minutes until caramelised. Pork and corn tacos 2 Toast the coriander and cumin seeds in a hot dry pan for about Serves 2-3 1 minute until fragrant. Lightly Hands-on time 25 min, plus crush in a pestle and mortar, marinating then mix in a shallow dish with Useful kit Digital thermometer the garlic, vinegar, sugar and coriander stalks. Roughly chop Cook the chops, corn 3 of the charred jalapeños and add to the marinade with the NO and chillies under a hot remaining 2 tbsp oil. Add the BARBIE? cooked chops, turning to coat, then set aside for 10 minutes. grill or in a pan over a 3 Remove the pork from the marinade, cut off the bone, then BARBECUE medium-high heat, turning, until slice and toss back through the FLAVOUR BOOST marinade (this is known as a Add soaked smoking cooked as in the recipe. reverse marinade – a quick way chips to the barbecue of adding more flavour). Slice the coals to ramp up the Swap the pork chops for kernels from the cobs and mix flavour of whatever with the coriander leaves, the you’re cooking. Maple EASY steaks, boneless chicken juice from half a lime and some works well with veg, SWAPS seasoning. Briefly toast the while cherry is a good tortillas on the barbecue (or in all-rounder for meat, thighs or salmon fillets. a pan) until slightly charred but still flexible, then pile on the pork poultry and fish. • 2 bone-in free-range pork chops and corn. Crumble feta over and • 3 tbsp olive oil drizzle with the remaining • 2 large corn-on-the-cobs marinade. Serve with the rest • 6 fresh jalapeño chillies of the charred chillies and limes. • 2 limes, halved Per serving (for 3) 594kcals, 22.5g fat (4.1g saturated), 40.6g protein, 55.3g carbs (7.7g sugars), 1g salt, 3.6g fibre → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 81

simple. Istanbul-style fish For the pickled onions 2 Rub the mackerel with half sandwiches • 1 small red onion, finely the oil and the lemon zest, then season. Barbecue skin-side Serves 2 sliced down for 5-7 minutes until • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar cooked through and the skin is Hands-on time 15 min • pinch sugar crisp, then transfer to a greased baking tray, skin-side up. Split Cook the mackerel For the dill yogurt the ciabatta rolls and toast the • 4 tbsp thick greek yogurt cut sides on the barbecue for NO skin-side up under a hot • Small bunch dill, roughly 1-2 minutes until a little charred BARBIE? and warmed through. chopped 3 Drizzle the lettuce with the grill for 5 minutes until • Pinch sumac remaining oil and the lemon juice, then season. Spread the the skin is charred and crisp 1 Prepare the barbecue for yogurt on the rolls, then top direct heat (for cooking right with the lettuce, mackerel and and the flesh is cooked through. over the coals; or see alternative drained pickled onions. cooking instructions above). Per serving 635kcals, 34g fat This sandwich (balik Mix the onion with the vinegar (8.1g saturated), 33.8g protein, and sugar in a small non-metal 46.3g carbs (10g sugars), EASY ekmek) traditionally uses bowl and set aside. In a separate 1.2g salt, 4.5g fibre SWAPS small bowl, mix the dill yogurt ingredients together and season. mackerel, but you could swap for another oily fish such as rainbow trout or sardines. • 2 mackerel fillets • 1 tbsp olive oil • Grated zest and juice ½ lemon • 2 ciabatta rolls • 1 little gem lettuce 82 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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Thrifty cook Canny fish salad Tinned sardines and leftover bread star in this summery plateful, perfect for warm weather entertaining or a speedy weekday lunch Sardine and tomato • 1 tsp pul biber (aleppo pepper) hours, tossing from time to time. panzanella or regular chilli flakes (optional) 2 Meanwhile, heat the oven to 160°C fan/gas 4. Spread the Serves 4-6 as a side • 150g stale sourdough bread, bread over a large baking sheet torn into bite-size chunks (see and drizzle with 2 tbsp of the Hands-on time 10 min, plus Easy Swaps) oil. Toss to coat, then bake for 10 minutes until lightly toasted pickling • 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, but still a little soft. plus extra to drizzle 3 Stir the remaining oil into the For a more substantial quick-pickled onion, then taste • 120g tin sustainable sardines and adjust the seasoning with NEXT meal, stir in a ball of in oil, drained more sugar or salt as needed. TIME Pour over the tomatoes and add • Small bunch basil, leaves picked the toasted bread and sardines. roughly torn mozzarella Roughly tear most of the basil 1 Put the tomato chunks in a into the salad, reserving a few or a drained and rinsed tin large serving bowl and sprinkle small leaves to garnish. Toss well with a good pinch of salt and to combine. Drizzle with a little of cannellini or butter beans. some pepper. Set aside. Toast more oil, then serve scattered the fennel seeds in a small dry with the remaining basil leaves. We’ve used sourdough, pan for 45 seconds until lightly Per serving (for 6) 234kcals, toasted and fragrant. Lightly 14.3g fat (2.3g saturated), 7.6g EASY but swap with white crush in a pestle and mortar, protein, 17.7g carbs (5.8g sugars), SWAPS then put in a small bowl and add 0.4g salt, 2.1g fibre the vinegar, onion, sugar, a pinch country loaf, ciabatta, of salt and, if using, the chilli flakes. Leave to quick-pickle for rye bread or any good-quality at least 15 minutes and up to 2 stale bread you have to hand. • 500g mixed tomatoes, cut into bite-size chunks • 2 tsp fennel seeds • 6 tbsp red wine vinegar • 1 red onion, sliced into very thin rounds (we used a mandoline) • 2 tsp caster sugar More budget ideas with tinned sardines RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: SEAN CALITZ. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS Storecupboard fishcakes Special sardines on toast Pasta, curries, tagines… Boil 450g potato chunks Pour the oil from a 120g Sardines are the star of until tender. Drain, then tin of sardines into a pan the show in the classic mash with 2 x 120g tins of over a medium heat. Add Sicilian dish pasta con sardines. Stir in 4 chopped 2 crushed garlic cloves, le sarde, and they’d be spring onions, 1 egg, ½ chopped red chilli and equally welcome tossed 2 tbsp mustard, chopped 1 tbsp capers. Fry for through puttanesca dill, the grated zest of 1-2 minutes, then add the (find recipes for both at 1 lemon and a pinch of grated zest and juice of deliciousmagazine.co.uk). salt. Shape into 8 patties, ½ lemon and the sardines. For something spicier, chill for 10 minutes, then Warm through, then stir swap in tinned sardines fry in oil for 3-4 minutes in some chopped parsley. for other oily fish such on each side until golden Serve on toast with mayo as salmon or mackerel and warmed through. and a squeeze of lemon. in curries or tagines.

simple. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 85

Easy bake Chetna’s star summer pudding Studded with at-their-best-now cherries and crunchy flaked almonds, this all-in-one cake from food writer and Bake Off star Chetna Makan looks impressive and tastes wonderful – plus it’s a cinch to make 86 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

simple. Cherry, almond and honey upside-down cake

simple. “Living in Kent, I’m lucky to have an abundance of cherries when they’re in season. Much as I like to enjoy them fresh, they’re great in bakes too. This delicately flavoured cake tastes of long summer evenings – a crowdpleaser that’s easy to make. Enjoy it warm with a scoop of ice cream or some crème fraîche.” CHETNA MAKAN Chetna’s cherry, • 100g golden caster sugar a plate (so the base is on the PHOTOGRAPHS: NASSIMA ROTHACKER. FOOD STYLING: EMILY KYDD. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR almond and honey • 100g ground almonds top) and carefully peel off the upside-down cake • 120g self-raising flour baking paper. Warm the 2-3 tbsp • 4 large free-range eggs honey until it’s runny and Serves 10-12 spreadable, then brush it over 1 Heat the oven to 160°C fan/ the cherries. Slice and serve. Hands-on time 15 min, plus gas 4. Grease the cake tin and Per serving (for 12) 375kcals, line the base with compostable 24.3g fat (10.3g saturated), cooling baking paper. Put the cherries, 5.5g protein, 33.3g carbs cut-sides down, in the prepared (25.4g sugars), 0.1g salt, Oven time 40-45 min tin. Sprinkle about a third of 0.7g fibre the flaked almonds in between Specialist kit 25cm round the cherries. • Follow Chetna on 2 Put all the remaining ingredients youtube.com/c/FoodwithChetna springform cake tin for the cake, except for the remaining flaked almonds, into Recipe taken The cake will keep in an a bowl. Whisk with an electric from Easy mixer for 2 minutes until creamy Baking by MAKE airtight container in the and fluffy (you could also use a Chetna AHEAD stand mixer fitted with a paddle Makan attachment). Fold in the rest of (£20 fridge for 3-4 days. Bring the flaked almonds by hand, then Hamlyn) pour the batter into the prepared it up to room temperature tin. Bake for 40-45 minutes or until a skewer pushed into before serving. the centre comes out clean. 3 Let the cake sit in the tin for Use frozen or tinned 5 minutes, then turn it out onto EASY cherries if fresh cherries SWAPS aren’t in season. Be sure to drain tinned cherries or defrost frozen ones before using. NEXT MONTH • 220g unsalted butter, Raspberry and softened, plus extra to grease white chocolate rice bars • 250g fresh cherries, pitted and halved (see Easy Swaps) • 70g flaked almonds • 200g runny honey, plus 2-3 tbsp to glaze 88 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Cuvée Rosé, chosen by the best. Illustrated by Quentin Blake Michel Roux at Le Gavroche MAISON FAMILIALE INDÉPENDANTE champagnelaurentperrier www.laurent-perrier.com Photo credit: Iris Velghe / Illustration credit: Quentin Blake / Conception Luma

Use it up Try adding leftover sourdough starter Savvy ways to use up all kinds to your next batch of ingredients, from linseeds to excess sourdough starter, left of crackers over from recipes in this issue BY JESS MEYER, ACTING DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Sourdough starter If you’re making this month’s Technical Bake linseed baguettes, you’ll find yourself with sourdough starter discard. Store it in the fridge, then fry in oil or butter like a chewy crumpet. Or use it to add flavour to conventional yeasted doughs or other baked goods. The trick is to reduce the flour and liquid in the base recipe accordingly. For example, if your starter has equal parts flour and water, for every 100g starter you add to the recipe, reduce the flour and liquid by 50g each. Or try these recipes... • SUPERIOR CRACKER GAME To a large bowl, add 120g sourdough starter, 50g wholemeal flour, ¼ tsp salt, 30g softened unsalted butter and 1 tbsp dried herbs (rosemary, thyme, oregano...). Mix to form a smooth dough, then wrap and chill for 1 hour. Roll out between sheets of baking paper until it’s as thin as possible (1-2mm is good). Peel away one sheet of paper, then invert and transfer to a baking sheet. Peel off the top layer of baking paper, brush with olive oil and sprinkle with more salt flakes. Bake at 160°C fan/ gas 4 for 20-25 minutes until crisp and golden at the edges. Cool, then break into large pieces and serve with cheese, charcuterie or dips. • ADD OOMPH TO YEASTED BREADS Replace up to a third of the flour in focaccia, pizza or enriched breads such as brioche with sourdough starter (remember to reduce the liquid, too). The starter will add flavour and extra strength to the dough for better shaping. If your starter is lively (recently fed), slightly reduce the yeast too. • SWEET BAKES WITH COMPLEXITY The acidity of starter discard works well in sweet recipes too. Chocolate is a particularly good partner, so add a few tablespoons of sourdough starter to brownies, cookies or chocolate cake, where it’ll have a similar souring effect to buttermilk or yogurt.

simple. Rendered pork fat (lard) Manouri cheese (from Gill Meller’s raised pork pie) (from Josh Katz’s galette) • SMOKE-FREE PAN FRYING • SATISFYING STUFFING Lard has a high smoke point – ideal when you want Manouri is creamier and less salty than feta and to fry at high temperature. It’s great for searing more like a mild semi-soft goat’s cheese. Use it steaks, or try adding a dollop to the wok for the instead of either to stuff peppers, chicken breast beginnings of an excellent fried rice. That high or rolled lamb shoulder, or try it in spanakopita. smoke point also makes it ideal for shallow frying. • CHEESE AND COURGETTE FRITTERS We’re especially fond of frying chicken in lard, Combine 200g coarsely grated courgette, 1 finely where it imparts a deeply savoury note. chopped spring onion, a handful of roughly chopped • EXTRA-FLAKY PASTRY soft herbs (dill, mint, basil...), 70g crumbled manouri, Replace up to half the butter in your next batch of 1 egg, 2 tbsp plain flour and plenty of seasoning. shortcrust or pie dough with lard. It has a higher Fry large spoonfuls of the mixture in a little oil over melting point than butter and less water, making a medium-high heat until golden and crisp. the dough easier to work with and super flaky. • FRIED CHEESY BITES • CRISPER ROAST POTATOES Like feta or halloumi, manouri holds its shape well. If you’re a fan of roasties cooked in duck or goose Cut the cheese into bite-size cubes, dip in beaten fat, it could be time to revive the tradition of lard egg, then toss with sesame seeds to coat well. roasties. Follow the method of par-boiling the Heat a good glug of olive oil in a pan over a medium spuds, then roughing them up and tossing in hot heat, then fry the cheese on all sides for 2 minutes fat before roasting for crisp-on-the-outside, or until golden. Serve warm, drizzled with honey fluffy-on-the-inside roast potatoes. and sprinkled with salt flakes as a snack. Linseeds Gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes) (from Dusty Knuckle’s baguettes) (from Ching’s kimchi) • VEGAN EGG REPLACER Linseeds (aka flaxseeds) are a useful binding agent • ALMOST INSTANT ‘KIMCHI’ VEGETABLES in vegan bakes. To use them you need to whizz the Gochugaru is the punchy co-star with cabbage in linseeds in a spice grinder to a fine powder, then kimchi. For an almost instant hit of that spicy-pickly mix with water. To use linseeds in place of mix, combine 1 crushed garlic clove, 2 tsp gochugaru 1 medium egg, mix 1 tbsp linseed powder with flakes, 1 tsp brown sugar, 2 tsp rice vinegar or 3 tbsp water until well combined, then set aside white wine vinegar and 2 tsp toasted sesame oil in a for 15 minutes. The resulting paste works a treat in small bowl. Toss with thinly sliced cucumber, fennel, pancakes, simple cookies and quick breads, where carrot or beans for a flavour-packed side dish. eggs are used primarily as a binder rather than • CHILLI OIL FOR ALL YOUR BARBECUE NEEDS being beaten and used as a raising agent. Put 4 thinly sliced garlic cloves and 100ml mild • AN OMEGA 3 BOOST olive oil in a small pan over a low-medium heat until Linseeds are packed with protein and healthy the garlic is just starting to turn golden and crisp. omega 3 oils. Stir a couple of teaspoons of linseeds Pour into a bowl and set aside to cool slightly, then into your morning porridge, smoothies and stir in 1½ tbsp gochugaru and a good pinch of salt. homemade granola, or try whizzing a couple of Drizzle over barbecued steak, fish or vegetables, or tablespoons into dips such as houmous. use as the base for a spicy vinaigrette. • BETTER VEGGIE BURGERS • ADD TO BROWNIES AND SWEET TREATS Linseeds help to bulk out and bind, so you can The sweet, smoky-fruity flavour of gochugaru is a use ground linseeds to replace the breadcrumbs great foil for chocolate. Add a pinch to hot chocolate in veggie burgers. The mild nutty flavour also adds or 1-2 tsp to a brownie mix for a warming hit. a satisfying hit of umami flavour. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 91



health matters. EATING GREEN Another reason to love Did you TOMATOES… British-grown toms are at know…? The climatarian diet is an approach to their best in summer, and have real health benefits The way you take too. According to new research by Portsmouth iron supplements is eating designed to help University, UK tomatoes are particularly important, according to reduce your carbon abundant in lycopene, the cell-protective the NHS. For the optimum footprint as well as antioxidant that gives them their distinctive benefit, take them on being good for you. an empty stomach, Devised by the colour. The report says evidence is mounting that preferably one hour non-profit Climates lycopene may have properties that support the before a meal, as certain Network CIC, the diet foods, especially dairy, lists ‘on the menu’ heart and protect against cancer. Drizzle tomatoes block the absorption of foods, including pork, with olive oil, which increases the absorption of iron. The only factor that poultry, sustainable lycopene, roast or use in sauces, as cooking them improves iron absorption increases the lycopene content. is vitamin C, so doctors fish, dairy and eggs, as suggest taking your iron well as seasonal fruit Health supplements with orange juice or another juice and vegetables. So NEWS drink rich in vitamin C. what’s off the menu? News, nuggets Beef, lamb, goat, of knowledge and unsustainable fish, as advice you can trust. well as food flown in by By Sue Quinn air or grown in heated greenhouses. Visit climatarian.com to find out more. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES WATCH THE SALT Chefs and cooks love the stuff, but eating too much of this revered seasoning is linked to increased risk of high blood pressure, heart disease and stroke – some of the world’s greatest health problems. New research from the University of Illinois has confirmed what has been suspected for a while: that most of the excess salt we eat is hidden in processed and packaged foods. One of the best ways to cut back is to cook from scratch wherever possible: “Do that and you can intentionally reduce salt, plus your perception of saltiness will reduce as time goes on,” says report author Professor Soo-Yeun Lee. “Adjusting to the reduced salt levels is a learning process, but it helps to add herbs and spices to enhance flavour.” deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93

Hello GOOD bacteria Fermented foods are good for you – that’s the on-trend wisdom of the moment. But are all created equal? Sue Quinn unbottles the facts on the health craze that’s become big business 94 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Kimchi and sauerkraut. Miso and kefir. Kombucha and yogurt. health matters. We’re encouraged to consume fermented food and drink like these because they contain beneficial live microorganisms called probiotics. The theory is they keep our gut in tip-top shape, which benefits our health. But has the message been oversimplified? Does everyone need them? And as food manufacturers cash in on the trend, how do you know which ones (if any) are worth buying? THE SCIENCE BIT “Probiotics are live microorganisms – bacteria and yeast – that have a positive effect within the large intestine to improve health or reduce gut symptoms,” explains Jo Cunningham, clinical director at The Gut Health Clinic. Scientists don’t yet fully understand the role of this community of trillions of microorganisms, known as the gut microbiome. It’s believed to have many functions including protecting the gut, making vitamins and amino acids (the building blocks of protein) and producing chemicals that support our cardiovascular, immune and metabolic health. The wider the variety of healthy microbes in your gut, the better for your overall health, scientists believe. Many factors influence this: genetics, age, environment, health, stress levels and sleep patterns all contribute. But what we eat has a significant effect, too. A high-fibre diet is known to support a diverse gut microbiome. And so is consuming fermented foods, defined as those in which healthy microbes have been grown in a controlled way. A recent small study by Stanford School Cunningham is a fan of fermented foods but says of Medicine found a 10-week diet high in high-quality studies supporting their health benefits are fermented foods boosted the diversity of limited. The best evidence is for taking probiotics in the the gut microbiome and reduced signs of form of supplements containing specific strains to treat inflammation. But research is still in its specific conditions such as irritable bowel syndrome, early stages. “Generally speaking, if constipation and traveller’s diarrhoea, as well as to someone is in good health the evidence counteract the effect of taking a course of antibiotics. She for consuming probiotics is weak,” says says it’s important to consult a health professional with Cunningham. “In order to benefit health expertise in gut health before taking supplements, as not those microorganisms need to survive all strains of bacteria and yeast are suitable for everyone. the entire gut, passing through the acidic stomach and length of the small intestine SUPPORTING GENERAL HEALTH before reaching the large intestine.” Sophie Medlin, a registered dietitian and specialist in gut health, believes there are “potential benefits” for everyone in consuming fermented foods. “Even if the probiotics don’t reach our colon (large intestine) alive, which is where we normally talk about microbiome benefits, there are other areas where they might have an effect,” Medlin says. Scientists believe that Communities of healthy bacteria live in our mouth, the the wider the variety of throat and in our respiratory tract, and it’s possible probiotics can support these microbiomes. “For example, healthy microbes in your beneficial bacteria can help to neutralise acid in the gut, the better for your mouth and protect us from dental decay,” Medlin says. She adds that fermented foods such as kombucha health –and what we eat (fermented tea), water kefir (fermented sugar water), has a significant effect miso paste and tempeh (fermented soy beans) might have health benefits by, for example, supporting the →

health matters. microbiomes in our throat or oesophagus. The different strains of probiotics in fermented foods vary according to the ingredients and the environment in which they were produced. Scientists don’t yet understand the tasks individual probiotics perform or the specific benefits of different fermented foods. “We’re not there yet with the data,” Medlin says. “If you’re interested in eating fermented foods, try a range rather than sticking to just one.” WHAT ABOUT FERMENTED DAIRY? 3 Agua de Madre Water Kefir This In 2020, King’s College London studied the effects of craft-brewed water kefir is ideal eating fermented foods on gut health. It found TO TRY if you’re avoiding dairy. There’s probiotics in dairy kefir (not water kefir) and yogurt a range of flavours, all with a were more likely to reach the large intestine alive tangy fizz, and none is overly than those in other fermented foods. “We think that’s sweet (although they do contain because the milk provides a protein structure around added sugar). It contains 1.2% the bacteria that protects them from the stomach alcohol (a by-product of acid and helps them stay alive all the way through to fermentation) so it’s not suitable the colon, providing gut health benefits,” Medlin says. for pregnant women or children. The manufacturers claim this …AND PREBIOTICS? gut-friendly soft drink for A prebiotic is a type of high-fibre food that feeds grown-ups has 55 billion live healthy gut microbes and includes cabbage, garlic, cultures per 100ml. onions, celery, asparagus, jerusalem artichokes and £28 for 8 x 250ml bottles; chicory root. Cunningham suggests boosting your aguademadre.co.uk diet with prebiotics could be as effective as fermented foods. “Prebiotics aren’t the live microorganisms, but Jess’s Ladies Organic Kefir the food for the microbes in the gut,” she says. “And A rich, tangy organic kefir you get the bonus of great flavours and a range of made using unhomogenised vitamins and minerals too.” Fermented foods whole milk from cows grazed on containing prebiotics as well as probiotics – kimchi, a family farm in Gloucestershire. sauerkraut and naturally fermented fruit and A 2-star Great Taste Award vegetables – are also worth considering. winner, it’s made by hand with milk from cows milked on a If you’re keen to include more fermented food in Monday, and arrives by courier your diet, homemade is preferable to shop-bought, on your doorstep on Thursday. Medlin says [see Ching He Huang’s homemade £36 for 5 x 750ml bottles kimchi on p106, and a recipe for using it overleaf]. (enough for a beneficial 150ml “Lots of bacteria are killed during processing to every day for three weeks); make fermented food suitable for the supermarket theladiesorganickefir.co.uk shelf,” she says. “For most products, there’s no good data to say they’re going to reach the colon alive.” Many brands also contain added sugar. THE BOTTOM LINE London Fermentary What PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES There may be potential (but as yet unproven) started as a way to use up benefits to eating fermented foods. “Ultimately, it’s produce that would otherwise about finding things you like that you can easily go to waste has grown into a include in your diet,” says Medlin. range of raw lacto-fermented vegetables, condiments and For personal gut health advice... drinks. We love the punchy, Visit citydietitians.co.uk or theguthealthclinic.com deeply flavoursome range of krauts and kimchis, including “Try a range of fermented foods rather a 3-star Great Taste Award than sticking to just one” winning vegan kimchi. From £6.50 to £7.90 per jar; londonfermentary.com 96 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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A healthier fry-up If you love kimchi or you’ve made the stuff in The Project this month, Kylee Newton has a great recipe for it. Woks at the ready… PHOTOGRAPHS LAURA EDWARDS FOOD STYLING ROSIE RAMSDEN STYLING ANNA WILKINS

health matters. “I grew up in New Zealand with east and southeast Asian-inspired meals, as my mum was quite an adventurous cook for the time, and the country has a cosmopolitan culture with a lot of influences from the Pacific Rim. That’s why egg fried rice has always been a staple of mine. It’s an easy go-to meal when I don’t have a lot of time, and I can make it with little energy or thought. Adding kimchi (especially if it’s homemade) makes it extra-special and comforting.” KYLEE NEWTON Kimchi fried rice • 200g kimchi, chopped into more oil if it’s looking a bit dry. with a fried egg 2cm pieces (see the vegan 2 Gently whisk the egg with recipe in Be A Better Cook if the sesame oil and kimchi brine. Serves 2-3 you fancy making your own) Make a well in the middle of the rice mix and pour in the egg Hands-on time 20 min • 250g cooked/steamed rice, mixture. Let it cook undisturbed chilled (see Make Ahead) for 15-20 seconds, then stir it If you don’t have any in to thoroughly coat the rice. • 1 large free-range egg Taste and season with salt, if MAKE leftover cooked rice for • 1 tbsp sesame oil needed, then stir in the AHEAD • 1 tbsp kimchi brine from coriander. Reduce the heat to low while you fry your eggs. this dish, you’ll need the jar – or use soy sauce 3 For the fried eggs, heat the oil • Bunch coriander, roughly or butter in a non-stick sauté pan Recipe taken to cook the rice at least 1 hour (with a lid) over a medium-high from The chopped heat. Crack in the eggs and, as Modern and up to 24 hours before soon as you hear them start to Preserver’s For the fried eggs (optional) sizzle, cover with the lid. Fry for Kitchen by making the recipe. The rice • 1 tbsp vegetable, sunflower 30 seconds, then turn off the Kylee Newton heat and leave covered for a (Quadrille £22) browns and crisps better or rapeseed oil or butter further 30 seconds (so they • 1 large free-range egg for steam). Depending on how runny if it’s had some time to dry. you like your egg, you can cook each serving them for longer, but a runny yolk For food safety, if you’re is better for breaking over the To serve (optional) kimchi rice. Serve an egg on top making the rice well in • 1 spring onion, sliced of each serving of kimchi rice, • Sriracha or other hot sauce sprinkled with spring onion and advance, cool and chill it as a zig-zag squeeze of sriracha or 1 For the fried rice, heat the oil other hot sauce. soon as possible after cooking. in a frying pan (or preferably Per serving (for 3) 352kcals, a wok) over a medium heat. 18.2g fat (3.1g saturated), 14.6g If you don’t have Gently stir-fry the shallot for 4-6 protein, 31.3g carbs (2g sugars), minutes until lightly caramelised 1.4g salt, 2.1g fibre KYLEE’S any kimchi, this dish – take care not to let it burn. NOTE Add the peas and kimchi, then increase the heat and cook for is almost as tasty 1-2 minutes. Reduce the heat slightly and add the rice. Stir-fry without. If you want to, for 4-5 minutes, adding a little you could add garlic salt and cayenne pepper or gochugaru (Korean dried red chilli powder) to mimic the flavours and kick of kimchi. NEXT MONTH For the fried rice Wonderful new • 1-2 tbsp vegetable, sunflower good-for-you salads or rapeseed oil, plus a little extra if needed • 1 banana shallot, diced • 100g frozen or fresh peas deliciousmagazine.co.uk 99

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