Spartan Guide

Municipality of SpartaBlessed with rich history, unique nature andfriendly people. A timeless choice for everytraveler. A place that will surprise you with thealternations of its landscapes and its vibranthistory. Here, the monuments of nature andman are in harmony with the long culture andhistorical tradition. Each trip to the Municipalityof Sparta, is a unique experience all year round.We wish you a memorable stay.

CONTRIBUTORS Vasilis Sykas©Photography:Research writer Dimitris Sotirakis(bibliography, sources): Vangelis DelegosWriter: Tourism DepartmentAdditional texts: of the Municipality of SpartaEditing- Proofreading: Vangelis DelegosPhoto captions: Vasilis SykasTranslation(into English): Marisa Syrelli, Dimitris Korizis,Translation Alexandra Prevezianouproofreading:Design: Vangelis DelegosArt Direction - Vaso SarikostaCover Design:Color Separations: Eva Papagianni «TOXO» Nikos Alexiades Year of publication: 2014

CONTENTSCONTEMPORARY SPARTA ........................................ 6THE HISTORY OF SPARTA ..................................... 10THE MONUMENTS OF SPARTA............................... 16MUSEUMS AND SITES OF THE MUNICIPALITYOF SPARTA........................................................... 22EVENTS OF THE MUNICIPALITY OF SPARTA............ 36THE HISTORY OF THE CASTLE-TOWN OF MYSTRAS 44THE MONUMENTS OF MYSTRAS ............................ 52HOLY MONASTERIES OF THE MUNICIPALITYOF SPARTA........................................................... 66WEST OF SPARTA.................................................. 86SOUTH OF SPARTA ............................................ 100NORTH OF SPARTA............................................. 120EAST OF SPARTA ................................................ 140TAYGETUS ......................................................... 174EUROTAS ........................................................... 186PARNON ............................................................ 188LOCAL PRODUCTS - GASTRONOMY .................... 198TOURIST ACCOMMODATION............................... 204USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS............................. 209BIBLIOGRAPHY- RESEARCH - SOURCES ............... 211Year of 2nd publication: 2016Additional texts -proofreading: Municipality of Sparta, Ephorate of AntiquitiesAdditional photos: of LaconiaCover Design: Municipality of Sparta, Ephorate of Antiquities of Laconia-Ministry of Culture Μaria Patrikiou “Maragos Ltd”



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CONTEMPORARY SPARTATouring a city harmonically built as a natural andwell-timed sequel of an incomparable historicalheritage, which emerges constantly from thedepths of time, in its simple everyday life…The central square of the town, with the imposing two-storey building of the oldCity Hall96\NDVThe new beginning for the This is the reason why today,creation of everything that the almost two centuries later, aftervisitor encounters in every step all those necessary changes,they take on the streets, squares deteriorations and additions,and neighbourhoods of modern Sparta is a place where, evenSparta, goes back to 1834, when as a first time visitor, you canunder Otto’s order and with the never get lost. Everything is builtestablishment of the plans of the with sharp definition and on theBavarian architect Stauffert, the basic principle of facilitating therejuvenated Hippodamian Plan of traveller, the resident, and theurban layout was implemented man who lives and breathes in itsagain, complying with the market places, its roads and itsarchitectural tendencies of the beautiful neoclassical buildings.developed European countries The city’s two main streets, thatof the early 19th century. run from north to south and6

Replica of the mosaic ofthe Abduction ofEurope with Zeustransformed into a bull,situated on the centralsquare’s cobbled floor96\NDV 7

The church of Osios Nikon “Metanoeite” (the Repenter), patron saint of Sparta96\NDVfrom the east to the west, are G. Katsaros and stands out,the Konstantinos Palaiologos among other things, for itsavenue (with its characteristic balcony resting on pillars and themedian strip and the tall palm overall “Π” shape of the edifice.trees counting more than eighty From here and around theyears of age) and Lykourgou square, one can find a numberavenue, which intersect at the of commercial stores and coffeecity centre, mainly lined with new shops in arcades, designed andstores, traditional coffee shops built in the beginning of 1860.and neatly constructed shopping With an already dazzled look,centres. the visitor will surely spot and admire, on the cobbled floor ofThe creations of nature, the the square, the beautiful replicavast orange and olive groves, of the “Abduction of Europe”,for a moment give their place dated from the 4th century, thatto amazing human creations used to decorate a luxuriousthat is impossible to overlook, Roman villa and was found in abypass and not admire, without house garden, in 1872.continually recollecting your tripin the enchanting Municipality of The list of the excellentSparta. neoclassical edifices of Sparta is long and cannot be exhausted inA special place in the social, a boring list and enumeration.cultural and everyday life of the On the other hand, all thatcity is deservedly reserved for the newcomer needs is thethe dominant City Hall, erected willingness to visit and getat the west end of the large acquainted with them, in ordercentral square, a “must” meeting to examine their valuablepoint for locals and foreigners. architectural merit in depth.This exquisite two-storey Indicatively, one can admire thebuilding dated from 1909, is a Archaeological Museum andcreation of the notable architect the “Matala Mansion” where the 8

military club is housed, at the houses the Agricultural Bank,intersection of Lykourgou and and of course a number ofLeonidiou streets. A special other architectural structures,mention should also be made scattered in this admittedlyto the majestic courthouse, historical city. The degree ofbuilt in 1837, a national rare acquaintance of the travellerarchitectural example of with the entire wealth of sightsthat era, along with the two Sparta offers, relies almost“Linadrakis mansions” located exclusively upon the sincerein Ananiou and Palaiogolou mood and the amount of timestreets, respectively. Also worth the traveller has, in order to fullymentioning are the “Liounis and constructively approach theMansion” (Evangelistrias and whole intellectual and historicalAgisilaou streets), the “Fikioris “treasure” emerging on eachMansion” (117 Palaiologou corner and each beautiful streetstreet), the building that of the city…Neoclassical building next to the church of Osios Nikon “Metanoeite”(the Repenter)96\NDV 9

THE HISTORY OF SPARTA« Oh stranger,go tell the Spartans,thou who passest by,that here, obedientto their laws, we lie …»Dispersed architectural parts from excavations to the ancient city96\NDVThe modern town of Sparta, as order of King Otto, this beautifulwell as the famous ancient one, city was reinstated. It was inhave chosen a blessed and fertile 1834 that Sparta became theland to found their buildings, first Greek city to take pride intheir destinies, their history, its fine city planning. The city’stheir unique and unprecedented history strand goes far back incourse through the ages, right time, even before the gloriousin the middle of a grand plain Mycenaean ages, and theoverflowing with orange trees, captivating and astonishing taleslemon trees, and olive trees, of the sublime Homer for theunder the cool breath of Mt. powerful kingdom of Menelaos,Taygetus, close to the right bank brother of Agamemnon ofof the mythological Eurotas river. Mycenae. Dorians, Agiads,In the 19th century, with the Eurypontids, Homoioi, Helots,10

Perioeci, and the way to a more sensed the bittersweet tasteglorious era, which has now of the bloodshed Spartanmarked the memory of the whole victory over Athens, during theplanet, had already begun… Peloponnesian Wars, which ledWho is not aware of the Battle to an unprecedented ancient civilof Thermopylae, the unwavering war?King Leonidas and the voluntary However, this exceptional landsacrifice of the three hundred would not be able to experienceSpartans and the seven hundred a similar heyday and glory everThespians, or the battle of again. 7KHJORULRXVFLW\JUDGXDOO\Plataea, and the unique and ORVWLWVIDPHZKHQWKH7KHEDQVone of a kind, life-long military DQGWKH0DFHGRQLDQVSUHYDLOHGLQtraining of the Spartan warriors? *UHHFH7KHFLW\H[SHULHQFHGDWhich history scholar has not SHULRGRIGHYHORSPHQWGXULQJ 11

%\]DQWLQH%DWKV$'DWWKHHQGRI7ULDNRVLRQ6W0XQLFLSDOLW\RI6SDUWD5RPDQWLPHVZKHQWKH5RPDQ is still “alive” in Sparta. NamesHPSHURUVZHUHFKDUPHGE\LWV and places, behaviours, gentleJORULRXVSDVW and straightforward manners and conducts, a “perfect match”The perpetual connection with of the remaining monumentsthe past… and the ruins of a city, with theWhile walking the streets of the biological identity of its citizenscity, one can meet monuments bearing evident “signs” of anand city spots that to a everyday life that goes backnewcomer, a non-Greek traveller, in millennia in a continuouswould seem unbelievable and underlying inherent memory.culturally impossible. Everything One does not only discover History, sees it unravel in front of him as a natural development, not as the uncanny remain of an ancient civilization. Thus, the study of Homer sheds some light to the life of the acclaimed Menelaos, the leading General of the great Trojan War and a lot more. Later on, his daughter Hermione and Agamemnon’s son, Orestes, did not only join their own destinies, but also their powerful kingdoms, those of Sparta and Argos respectively. Fewer may even know Aristodimos; the great Dorian warrior, and one of the three leaders of the northern descendants of Hercules,12

who, by bringing army with FHQWXU\%&ZKHQWKHLUhim, troops and the precious FRQVROLGDWLRQZDVVWDUWHGknowledge of iron processing, WKURXJKWKHIRUWLILFDWLRQRIWKHeasily dominated the native FLW\ZKLFKZDVFRPSOHWHGLQpopulations that used the WKHVWFHQWXU\%&clearly inferior bronze weapons.Therefore, the descent of the ,QWKHODWHWK,FHQWXU\ %&theDorians in Sparta, initiated yet Spartans KDGestablishHGanother rich period of great colonies in 7KLUD and7DUDQWR,achievements for the area. In while they maintained very goodcontrast to other areas in Greece, relations with the Dodecanesethe steady and solid route I7shleanRodmsaannthdeaCtyrepr0u2s6. Sparta at thHof this civilization to its own time was an unexpectedlyClassical Era was characterised extrovert and hospitable city toby many particularities and strangers, refuting theunique features in domestic contemporary distorted notionarchitecture, law, education and of a “bad- tempered” andthe overall perception of wealth “savage” nation of warlordsand freedom… residing in a harsh and reclusive war-driven community. TheIn particular, it is truthfully said contemporary traveller willthat Sparta was never fortified. acknowledge in surprise, theThe city was never organised in great development of Arts ina consolidated, densely-built that era, with the magnificententity, like Athens which was architecture holding thewell-defined under a number of preeminent place, followedfortifying works, but developed closely by sculpture, potteryin “komes”, beautiful districtsbuilt alongside the west bankof Eurotas river. /LPQDL Pitani,Cynosure, 0HVRDDQGODWHUWKHPRUHUHPRWHG$P\NOHVZHUHWKHILYHNRPHV WKDWFRQVWLWXWHGDQFLHQW6SDUWDXQWLOWKHUGInscription on the Roman theatre96\NDV 13

and metalwork. Poetry reached Statue of Lycurgus the lawgiver ofits peak through the works Ancient Sparta, work of the Americanof authors such as Tyrtaeus sculptor Avard Fairbanks96\NDVand Alcman, while Spartanathletes accomplished great were eligible to receive militaryachievements at the Olympic education and training in orderGames. Numbers speak for to fight by the side of thethemselves, compared to those Spartan hoplites. Last, and atcoming from the rest of the city- the basis of the social pyramid,states. From 720 BC to 576 BC, were the “Helots”. They werefrom a total of 81 winners in all slaves and serfs from Achaia,athletic events, 46 were Spartan defeated by the Dorians, as wellathletes! as hostages from Messenia. For them, although theyNext in line is the renowned outnumbered the other classes,Lycurgus, the lawgiver who life was always harsh and fullwas glorified almost as a God of hardships and deprivations,by his fellow citizens and his leading them to many greatascendants, although very little revolts throughout History, all ofis known about his personal which were destined to drown inlife. Well-travelled, even in their own blood…today’s terms, he drafted the It is certainly worth noting that“Great Rhetra”, a code of laws two kings from two differentand governance policies, which families (a law that lasted forwould prove to determine, for many consecutive centuries),centuries, the very political and supported the aforementionedsocial character of Sparta, albeit global picture of social structurethe “paradigmatic” austerity and governance.of some clauses was not at allagreeable to many. Thus, the Sparta of war…reins of this complex society Gradually, from the depths of theconsisting of ILYH “komes” Wh – th century %&and beforewere taken on one handby the “Gerousia”, a council of28 elders, and on the other bythe “Ephors”, five in total, whowere elected from the “komes”.“Apella”, the Spartan equivalentof the Athenian “Ecclesia”, wasa meeting opportunity for the“Homoioi”, the few thousandSpartan citizens who were atthe top of the social pyramidand had the right to vote byacclamation. This was not thecase for the numerous “Perioeci”though, who had civil rights,but not political ones. “Perioeci”were mainly responsible forthe cultivation of the land andthe artisanal production, and 14

WKHHra of the legendary heroes, During the first centuries ofthe city progressed to the the Roman occupation, theClassical Era, developing into a city would relive momentssociety of real heroes, in an of commercial and economicinvincible war machine. Phrases growth, while at the samesuch as “,WDQLHSLWDV” (return time constructed great worksvictorious or dead) of the and monuments. The RomanSpartan mothers, and widely Emperors, being precisely awareknown elements of the military of the past grandeur of the city,education, starting from the showed the utmost respect toearly years of a child’s life, are the history and “heavy” legacyalways present in any historical of the land. Temples, streets,study or reference to this heroic waterworks and an exquisiteland. Phrases like “7RODNRQL]HLQ theatre adorned that newHVWLILORVRIHLQ” (brevity is the soul Sparta, which would experienceof wit), the “melas zomos” (black the fate of seeing everythingsoup or black broth) and the being demolished by the Heruliillustrious “ethos” of the barbarians in 267 AD. Right6partans, summarise the coarse after the destruction, Christiansand decisive way the young started settling and preachinghoplites became men and waitHG in the area, whereas a bigday and night, to be called to earthquake in 375 AD threatenedbattle, leaving behind their once more the life of the city.homeland in order to face an Alaric and his Visigoths, in 396enemy superior in numbers, as AD, would once more destroyin the case of Leonidas and his whatever was still left standingthree hundred hoplites, as well and most citizens would thenas a year later, at the Battle of seek protection in areas higher inPlataea, at the great Pan-Hellenic the mountain, away from Eurotasalliance under the joint commanG River and its military perils.of Athenians and Spartans. The It was the Byzantine Era thatsame military structure would gave a breath of fresh air to whatremain intact throughout the was left of the ancient city, withPeloponnesian Wars period, but the magnificence of Mystrascombined with an obvious overshadowing for a short periodreduction in military manpower of time, all other elements(as “Perioeci” and “Helots” were “flourishing” in the area. Thefor centuries excluded from succession of Francs andbeing selectively accepted as Ottomans had just achieved to“citizens”, and thus, as be perceived as a “bleak” or evenwell-trained warriors) guiding indifferent gap in the history ofSparta to retreat under the Sparta which lasted for centuries,superior military organization always compared to what thisof the Macedonian generals. city had managed to become, notThroughout the subsequent only for the city itself, but for theHellenistic period, many entire Greek population, back atproficient hoplites became its heroic legendary years…mercenaries in foreign armieswhich paid well, leaving behindSparta for Egypt, Sicily, NorthAfrica and elsewhere… 15

THE MONUMENTS OF SPARTAThe Roman theatre offering a panoramic view to the modern town96\NDVAs one walks, sees, photographs Leonidas’ Tomb - “Leonidaion”and learns, it becomes clear To the northwest of the town’sthat the acquaintance with the residential plan, lie the remainsexcellent monuments of this of a temple-like building of 12.5town is not just another tour x 8. metres, datedor a boring touristic activity, approximately at the end of thebut an unexpected and totally 5th century. Although there isrealistic journey in time, a very no substantial proof that this isrich experience, common and indeed the tomb of the famousaccessible to everyone… king Leonidas, oral tradition has prevailed over archaeological search, even though the most convincing theory, as far as this16

Cenotaph of Leonidas, a structure made of large porous stones96\NDV. 17

historical centre is concerned, important horse racing events, assuggests that the bones of well as other public events, werethe warrior have been buried held in honour of the patronsomewhere close to the imposing goddess. In this sacrosanct hollyancient theatre of the town and place, important personalitiesthat this particular beautiful of the ancient Spartan Historybuilding is in fact a temple had sought asylum, likededicated to Apollo “Karnios”. Lycurgus the lawgiver andNevertheless, it is a “must” stop Agis IV. The army commander,for the contemporary visitor… Pausanias,ZKRZDVDFFXVHGRI WUHDVRQUHVRUWHGWRWKHThe sanctuary and the temple VDQFWXDU\ZKHUH Kis fellowof Athena “Chalkioikos” citizens EXLOGDQGVHDOWKH7RWKHQRUWKZHVW of the ancient HQWUDQFHDQGLWVURRIDQGOHIWKLPcity’s acropolis,ZHILQG the WRGLHremains of the most importanttemple in ancient Sparta, The Roman theatrededicated to Athena; its name Sparta can take pride in its“Chalkioikos” derives from the ancient theatre, VLQFH itfascinating copper (chalkos in ranks among Greece’s threeGreek) depictions that used largest DQG most imposingto decorate its interior in its DQFLHQWWKHDWUHV.complete form. Here, as early Imagine a large U-shapedas the Geometric Period, used orchestra with a diameterto be a humble shrine with of 25 metres, pavedan altar, which later evolved alternately with marble tiles,into a magnificent VDQFWXDU\ DQGcombined with awith a spacious courtyardwhereView of the Basilica of Christ the Saviour from the east side96\NDV18

white marble koilon (auditorium) it into the metropolis ofwith a 140-metre opening! Lacedaemon until the secondLook up at the tiers and imagine half of the 13th century, when16,000 spectators cheering or it was transferred to the alreadywatching the theatrical play, thriving Mystras. The Basilica,absorbed and emotionally built in the 7th century, was latertouched… enriched with additions, suchIt was in a vast parcel of land as the imposing church tower,measuring 14,000 m2, during the narthex and a chapel, only athe Late Hellenistic Period, few remains of which can still bewhen the construction of this seen today.exquisite building exhibitingthe love of the locals for culture, The Vafeio Tholos Tombdrama and poetry begun, with Laconia’s largest vaulted tomb,Roman governors and emperors with a diameter of 10.20 meters,spending huge amounts of dated from the Mycenaeanmoney, between the 1st and the Period (around 1,500 B.C) can be3rd centuries, for extensions, found after Amykles, followingmaintenance works, luxurious the signs leading to an areatransformations and necessary surrounded by a charming oliveimprovements works. grove. It really is a shame that its impressive dome (tholos) isThe “Circular Monument” not preserved, but the famous)RUWKHLGHQWLILFDWLRQRIWKLV two golden cups that haveLPSUHVVLYHFRQVWUXFWLRQRIWKH been found here, known as$UFKDLFRUHDUO\&ODVVLFDO “The Vafeio Cups”, adorn theSHULRGWKHPRVWSRSXODU Archaeological Museum ofSURSRVDOLVWKHRQHWKDW Athens with their beauty, andFRUUHODWHVZLWKWKHSHULSKHUDO highlight the magnitude ofVWUXFWXUHRI(SLPHQLGHVZLWK the Mycenaean civilization inVWDWXHVRI=HXVDQG2O\PSLD Laconia.9HQXV7KHPRQXPHQWKDVDOVREHHQDVVRFLDWHGZLWK6NLDGDD The “Menelaeon”VSDFHIRUSXEOLFJDWKHULQJVDQG Pausanias strongly believedPXVLFHYHQWVZLWKWKHVDQFWXDU\ that it was here, in this ancientRI(DUWKDQGZLWK&KRURVZKHUH temple dated from the 8th*\PQRSHGLHVXVHGWRWDNHSODFH century B.C. at least, that KingLQKRQRXURI$SROOR7KH Menelaos and his wife HelenPRQXPHQWZDVUHVWRUHGXQGHU were buried. With a stunningWKHVXSHUYLVLRQRIWKH(SKRUDWH view to Taygetus, close to SpartaRI$QWLTXLWLHVRI/DFRQLD and east of the river Eurotas, Pany systematic excavationsBasilica of Christ the Saviour have taken place; one of theToday, it can be quite easily most important ones, duringproved that this Early Christian the PLG70’s, brought to(Paleochristian) Basilica was light a collection of offeringsbuilt much earlier than the dedicated to the royal couple.temple erected by St. Nikon Only a few remains from thatthe “Metanoite” (the Repenter), large building can still be foundbut its bygone grandeur and today, and mainly a peculiar veryimportance had transformed 19

The Menelaeon from the hill of Profitis Elias “supervises” the entire valley96\NDVlarge pyramid-like platform, DVVRFLDWHGZLWKQDWXUHDQGwhich was probably a prop for fertility, EXWODWHURQWKHFXOWZDVthe entire structure of worship, LGHQWLILHGZLWKWKDWRI$UWHPLVfurther supported by retaining 7KHVKULQHZDVDFHQWHURIwalls and a 5.5 metre alcove… HGXFDWLRQIRUWKH\RXQJ6SDUWDQV DQGPDQ\HYHQWVGDQFHVDQGThe Shrine of Artemis “Orthia” FRPSHWLWLRQVZHUHKHOGWKHUHGoddess Artemis held an ,QVRPHRIWKHFHUHPRQLHVWKHeminent position in the ZRUVKLSHUVZRUHPDVNVPDGHRIdevotional routine of ancient OHDWKHURUZRRG&RSLHVRIWKHVHSpartans. This particular shrine is PDVNVDUHWKHFOD\PDVNVsituated very close to the Eurotas H[KLELWHGLQWKH$UFKDHRORJLFDOBridge, within the ancient NRPL 0XVHXPRI6SDUWDof Limnes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

The Sanctuary of Artemis “Orthia”, at the northeast edge of the modern town96\NDVThe Statue of Leonidas become a landmark that manyThis particular beautiful male travellers in Sparta chose to visitstatue may not fall under the or just make a stop. The Spartancorrect and precise definition Panos Koumantaros built thisof a town’s “monument”, dominant statue in 1968 andaccording to clear chronological it is based on a representationand historical data, still, for of a soldier discovered by themany different reasons, it has British Archaeological School in 1920, which was easily identifiedThe statue of Leonidas, the legendary with the glorious king. This isking of Sparta96\NDV exactly the reason why it bears obvious aesthetic similarities with the earlier popular statue of Thermopylae (built in 1955), also inspired by the same archaeological finding. The much-photographed statue of Leonidas is located in front of the town’s stadium, at the end of Paleologos street, and also serves as the festive finishing point of the important athletic event “Spartathlon”. On its basis, one can read a verse written by the poet Dionysios Solomos: «Oh! Three hundred men! Rise And come back to us See your children How much they resemble to you» 21

MUSEUMS AND SITES OF THE MUNICIPALITY OF SPARTA22

Hall of the archaeological museum96\NDV Archaeological Museum of Sparta The first archaeological collection was founded in Sparta in 1833, by the German archaeologist Ludwig Ross, and was housed in the church of Agios Panteleimon. Soon though, it was destroyed by fire and was rebuilt in 1872, by the curator for Antiquities, Panayiotis Stamatakis, who collected 288 ancient objects that comprised the main core of the findings of the museum that was erected a little later. The Archaeological Museum of Sparta is the first regional museum of*UHHFHWRKDYHEHHQ GHVLJQHGDQGFRQVWUXFWHGDE LQLWLRIRUWKLVH[DFWSXUSRVHThe entrance Column of the 6th century BCof the Archaeo-logical Museumof Sparta96\NDV possibly depicting Menelaos and Helen/Ministry of Culture 23

Statue of hoplite, known as “Leonidas” the addition of halls at its(480-470 BC, Archaeological Museum northern and southern sides.of Sparta)96\NDV The first extension of the two halls occurred between 1905The building works started in and 1908, and was funded by1874, based on the designs of the Archaeological Company.architect G. Katsaros, though at Two more, with even greatertimes it has been considered to size, were added similarly inbe the work of the famous 1936.Danish architect Theophilus Today, the museum hostsHansen.It was completed on thousands of findings from theJanuary 23, 1876, with the main province of Lacedaemon, alongbuilding consisting initially of with those coming from otherone central hall with Ionian areas of the Laconian prefecture,propylons (outer monumental which are not included in thegateways) built on its west and archaeological collections ofeast sides, and two adjoining Gytheion and Neapolis Voion.halls.The studies that started to The objects exhibited in itstake place in Sparta at the end of halls, cover the time periodthe 19th century, as well as between the Neolithic and thethe continuous collection of Later Roman eras, while findingsantiquities, led to an increase from the great sanctuaries ofof the number of findings and Sparta hold the most prominentthe subsequent expansion of position. The museum visitorsthe central building, with the will have the opportunity to admire retrieved material coming 24 from the greater pre-historical sites of Laconia, sculptures dated from the Archaic to the Roman eras, found at various locations of the prefecture, along with artefacts from rescue excavations, the most important of which being the remains of Roman mosaic floors from Sparta. In addition, the museum exhibition includes a few but extremely valuable epigraphs, providing rare information on the history of the area…

Classical Antiquities has brought, Head of a bearded man with aand keeps bringing to light, diadem, 2nd AD century96\NDVuntil today. The basic criterionof choice and presentation Hellenistic and Roman periodsis the importance of some of are exhibited.these findings, not only for the Hall IV (the small loft of thescientific community but also Museum): It includes findingsfor the common visitor. This is a of the pre-historic periodbrief description of the contents from various parts of Laconiaof the museum halls… (Geraki, Melathria, Epidaurus of Limira, Peristeri, Angelona, andHall I (lobby): Roman inscribed Amykles). A prominent positioncolumns are exhibited, on which is held by the burial giftsiron sickles have been embodied, (kterismata) from the Mycenaeanofferings of the winners in the graves of Pellana, where a richathletic events of the Artemis cemetery has been discovered.”Orthia” shrine. The name of the 7KLVKDOOLVFORVHGIRUWKHSXEOLFwinner and the athletic event on Hall V: A few samples from awhich they were distinguished large number of mosaic floorsare inscribed on the columns. that decorated the luxuryHall II: It includes findings urban villas and the publicfrom the sanctuary of Artemis buildings of Sparta during“Orthia” and from the abundant the Roman period are displayed.excavations, as well as samples Among the iconicof offerings made to the goddess representations of the mosaics,by the believers, made of ivory, those of Achilles in Skyrosstone, and clay, as well as lead (early 4th century BC)figurines, presumably offerings and of the decapitation ofby the poor. Of great interest Medusa (3rd century BC) standare the clay mask offerings, out. One can also admireprobably imitations of the gorgoneia, a representationwooden ones that were possibly of Aphrodite and many more.used at ceremonies honouring Hall VI: An importantthe goddess. In the same hall, position is held by thefindings from the sanctuaries architectural parts ofof Athena “Chalkioikos”, Apolloof Amyklae and Menelaion are 25exhibited. The great funeralamphorae with relief decorationsfound in the Sparta excavationshold an equally prominent place.Hall III: It includes sculptures,mainly from the Roman period,portraits and parts of marblesarcophagi, while, in the centreof the room, the head of thestatue of Tyche of the city isdisplayed. In the same room,parts of mosaic floors from the

the Apollo of Amyklae sanctuary, victory stele of Damonon holdsa work by Bathycles of Minor an important position in the hall,Asia, exquisitely combining listing victories in various athleticIonian and Doric features, in events. Here, various inscribeda particular type of structure, columns of dead warriors, thewhere the Dorian Apollo and statue of Eileithyia, the goddessthe pre-Dorian deity Hyacinth of childbirth, as well as thewere jointly worshiped. In the gigantic head of Hera or Helencentre of the room, one can are also displayed...find the amphiglyph (doublesided relief) pyramid-shaped The Archaeological Museum ofcolumn depicting pairs of figures Sparta is under the jurisdiction(Orestes – Clytemnestra and of the Ephorate Rf AntiquitiesRIMenelaus - Helen), while one /DFRQLD.can also admire a large numberof a heroic Laconian reliefs 71, Osiou Nikonos strseries representing a pair of Tel. 27310 28575, 21516deities, reliefs and symbols of Open daily, except MondaysDioskouroi, as well as a small 8:30 – 15:00section of offerings originating General admission: 2 Eurosfrom the Alexandra-Cassandra Reduced admission: 1 eurosanctuary in Amykles.Hall VII: Mainly samples of the Museum of Olive and GreekLaconian sculpture. In the centre Olive Oilof the room, the figure of the The “Museum of Olive and GreekSpartan warrior called “Leonidas” Olive Oil” in Sparta is the onlyis exhibited. It was found close one of its kind in Greece. It is noto the sanctuary of Athena surprise that it is found in the“Chalkioikos”. The renowned heart of Laconia, one of the mainExterior view of the Museum of Olive and Greek Olive Oil96\NDV26

olive oil producing regions of Double wooden press96\NDVthe country. As it is widely known,the cultivation of olivetrees and the folklore activities, from the pre-production of olive oil is historic period until today. Theinextricably linked with the few examples of ancient andgeographical and cultural Greek modern art that are included inand Mediterranean identity. the museum demonstrate thatThe upper floor exhibits the this blessed seed has been afirst testimonies about olives constant source of inspiration forin Greece, their continued Greek artists.contribution to the economy, The Museum’s ground floor isfrom the prehistoric era until dedicated to the developmentthe 20th century, their role in of the olive oil productionnutrition, body care (cosmetics, technology, from the Antiquitypharmaceutical uses), lighting, until the early industrial era. Inwhile a special mention is made this section, the post-Byzantineregarding its symbolic dimension technology and machinery arethat involves religion, mythology, also displayed. An animal-drivenculture and mores. The section olive oil press from Lefkadacloses with a brief presentation of provides evidence of the survivalthe position of olive trees in art. of this technique during the 20thThe tour starts from the earliest century.findings, demonstrating the A wooden double oil press withexistence of the olive tree in a winch has been transferredGreece: rare fossil olive leaves, from the neighbouring village ofapproximately 50,000 – 60,000 Xirokambi. Emphasis has beenyears old, found at the Caldera given on the representation of thein Santorini. The first written machine-driven olive oil pressestestimonies date back to the14th century BC, on clay tablets 27inscribed with a Linear B’ script.Olive oil’s capacity to cover avariety of different and variousneeds has made it one of themost significant agriculturalproducts, which played adefinitive role in the economyof each historical period. Theposition of olives and olive oilin nutrition is presented in aseparate section. A series ofother long forgotten uses of oliveoil are revealed through boardsand exhibits (lighting, bodycare, and cosmetology). Theimportance of olives and olive oilin the lives of the Greek peopleis vividly depicted through manysymbolisms, worship rites and

(water-powered, steam-powered, under its exclusive management,diesel-powered and power- this beautiful amphitheatre,driven) through large moving located 5km out of Sparta onmodels. And since olive oil is still the way to Kalamata, can seatlinked to body care, one section 1,800 – 2,000 spectators, hasof the exhibition is dedicated to a big parking space and issoap making, both for domestic surrounded by a beautiful greenand industrial use. From the large park with an old water mill,cauldron that some traditional as well as a well-maintainedhousewives still use to make playground. The amphitheatre issoap, in the olive-producing characterised by its magnificentregions of the country, to the acoustics, with the naturalindustrial soap vats. background of Mt. Taygetus and the fortified town of Mystras.129 Othonos-Amalias str Since 1988, it hosts the “CulturalTel: 27310 89315, Summer” festival with concertswww.piop.gr and theatrical performances ofMarch 1- October 15 high artistic merit, while the10:00-18:00 (except Tuesdays) program never fails to includeOctober 16- February 28 theatrical games and events10:00-17:00 (except Tuesdays) related to ecology and theClosed: January 1st, protection of nature.Good Friday (until 12.00),Easter Sunday, May 1st, Tel. 27310 28878,August 15th, November 26th, 27310 82470December 25-26 http://www.sainopouleio.grGeneral Admission: 3 EurosReduced admission: 1.5 Euros Central Public Library of Sparta It was founded in 1972 andSainopouleio Amphitheatre started operating the followingBuilt with the funds of theSainopouleio Foundation, andThe archive of N. Vrettakos is housed in the central public library96\NDV28

year, while in 1989 it was of Palermo, greeted therelocated in a privately owned foundation of the poet’s Archivebuilding, on a plot donated by in Sparta, on December 9, 2000,E. Filippopoulos. The library’s while the Central Public Librarydepartments include the of Sparta was chosen to collect,Laconian Bibliography, document, protect, utilise anda lending library and a reading promote the Nikiforos Vrettakos’room for children and adults, an Archive, by the poet himself notinformation centre, a newspaper long before he passed away.and magazine archive, as wellas an important number of 135, Lykourgou straudiovisual media, including a Tel. 27310 26853, 27310 21180record and a video library. It has www.nikiforos.edu.grin total more than 70,000 titles,130 titles of local newspapers Museum of Modern Spartaand magazines, 250 magazine Member of the Internationaltitles, 2,000 music CD’s, 500 Council of Museums (ICOM)educational CD’s, 800 videotapes and housed in WKH wonderfuland other broad archival neoclassical buildingRIWKHmaterials. An important section &XOWXUDO&HQWUHRI6SDUWD, thisof the library is the archive of museum, is built according tothe poet Nikiforos Vrettakos, the contemporary museologicalhomage to the great Laconian aesthetics and practicality Itpoet with rich archival material documents via its exhibits, suchon his life and work. as traditional costumes and old“Nikiforos Vrettakos lives, models, the cultural and socialclose to his mountain and his development of modern SpartaArchive, and in the thoughts of from the city’s establishmenthis friends”: With these words, until the 21st century.the poet’s friends, R. Lavaguini,S. Nicosia and the Instituto diFilologia Greca of the UniversityThe Museum of Modern Sparta includes documents, photographs, costumes,furniture and other items96\NDV 29

7KHmuseum was created with offer them, either by lendingthe purpose to document all them on consignment but stillthings related to the city and maintaining their ownership, orinforms every generation of by donating them.Spartans on how the Laconiancapital, with its great ancient 82, Lykourgou strhistory, was established and Tel. 27310 26343developed to turn into a Open on Sundayscontemporary urban centre of (11:00 – 13:00)the Peloponnese.The exhibition commences Manousakeion MuseumRIwith reports on the Filiki XUEDQDQGIRONOLIHEteria (Society of Friends), the This museum ZDVQDPHGDIWHUrevolution of 1821 and on the Leonidas Manousakis, whoMystras families that constituted GRQDWHG his house and all of hissome of the first residents household belongings to theof Sparta. It continues with Municipality of Sparta. On theOtto’s Order to reconstruct the interior of this spectacular stone-city in 1834 and progresses made mansion, a largeQXPEHUby selectively presenting the of everyday- life objects of thebenchmarks in the urban, Spartans dated to the 19th andresidential, social and cultural 20th centuries, are exhibiteddevelopment of the city, by DQGDORQJZLWKUHSUHVHQWDWLRQVutilising elements that will be RILQWHULRUDUFKLWHFWXUHDQGadded in the future. PXOWLPHGLDSURMHFWLRQVWKH\It is continuously enriched and WUDYHOWKH YLVLWRUVEDFNWRWKHhopes on the benevolence of XUEDQDQGIRONOLIHRIWKHSHRSOHthose who still own objects ZKREXLOGDQGLQKDELWHGWKHQHZrelevant to the purpose of the WRZQRI6SDUWDMuseum of Modern Sparta, to 13, Ananiou str, 7HOA hall of the Manousakeion Museum/ Municipality of Sparta30

The Camera Museum of Takis 6 of which were air cameras.Aivalis These cameras mainly cameIt was inaugurated in March from the United S tates, where2013 and it is the lifetime in the 60s they were considereddream and culmination as “black trash”, not reg ardedof the efforts of as collectibles and were soldTakis and Anastasia Aivalis. in extremely low prices inThis museum exhibits the New York junk stores and fleacollection of cameras markets. He would buy themof the well-known in whichever state they werephotographer Takis in, and as they w ere usuallyAivalis,starting from the damaged, he would repairmid-40s, when he begun them on his ow n. Later on, hecollecting them, after his broadened his purchases fromfather brought him as a gift other countries of the worldfrom USA a small Kodak 1A (Holland, France, Canada, Italy)pocket camera of 1923, which slowly creating his personaltriggered him and became collection, increasing it withhis lifelong passion. anything that pertained toIn 1952, and while he was photography. Apart from a fewliving in USA, he bought that he boug ht new, the resthis second camera, an Agfa of his cameras are second-Billy Clark, initiating his hand accompanied by relevantcareer as a photographer. certificates.His collection of cameras The collection includesgrew and in 1967 he the development of thereturned to Greece with more photographic cameras of thethan 300 models, 20th century, w ith modelsThe Camera MuseumofTakis$LYDOLV/V.Sykas 31

mainly addressing the amateur Museum of Ecclesiastical Art/Municipality ofuser and it is also worth Spartamentioning that, back in 2001,it had earned a place in the perceptions of theGuinness Book of Records. One post-Byzantine centuries.of the oldest is a Kodak N2 Plicoof 1885, followed by a whole 3, LysandrouStr.range of cameras characterising Tel.27310 23338each time period, brand and 2731026580-1type, as they have evolved Free admissionthrough the decades. Featuredbrands range from Kodak, Agfa, Koumantareios Art GalleryAnsco, Argus, Coronet, Zeiss The “Koumantareios Art GalleryIkon, Bilora, Dacora, Ferrania, of Sparta” is housed in theMinolta, Ilford, Yashica, Nikon, former “Vasalakis Mansion”, aCanon, Olympus, Mamiya, beautiful neoclassical buildingPolaroid, Zenit, Gomz, Practica, of the early 20th century thatFed and Lomo to air cameras Dolly Goulandris and her(these heavy solid pieces that brother George Koumantaros,were used in the past by the in honour of their father IoannisAmerican Army to create maps Koumantaros, who had alwaysor photograph entire areas). dreamt of founding an art galleryThe collection includes wooden in his hometown, donated it. Itphotographic cameras, lenses, was inaugurated in 1982 andand negatives, gun cameras of operates as a subsidiary of themilitary aircrafts, components National Gallery, with fourteenand bibliography concerning oil paintings of west Europeanphotography. painters in its permanentMystrasTel. 27310 81085, 27310 28166,Tours and group visitsby arrangementMuseum of Ecclesiastical ArtThe Museum of Ecclesiastical Artof the Holy Metropolis ofMonemvasia and Sparta islocated next to the metropolitanmansion in Sparta. The collectionhouses treasures that belong toecclesiastical art. It includesicons, religious objects,metalwork, woodcurving, textilesand fine samples of bookbindingart. The Museum of EcclesiasticalArt is a valuable and uniquetestimony of the spiritualorientations and aesthetic 32

Koumantareios Art Gallery. Department of Fine Arts of the Carnegie Mellon University of theexhibition, ranging from the last United States and the Universitydecades of the 16th century to of Israel. Many of them havethe beginning of the 20th, all been published in journals indonated by Ioannis Koumantaros Greece and abroad, and havehimself. The venue often hosts been announced in national andtemporary exhibitions of the international conferences.National Gallery, in order tofamiliarise the public with 123, Konstantinou PalaiologouModern Greek painting. Priority & Thermopylon stris given to its educational role, 10:00 – 15:00 (expect Tuesdays)and its educational programs 27310 81557are addressed to pupils of all Free admissionschool levels, as well as tospecific audiences. They aim at Botanical and Geologicalthe linguistic, mental, emotional, Museum of Taygetusethical and mainly aesthetical The “Parnon – Taygetoscultivation of the team members, Development Company”while the educational activities in collaboration with theof the gallery are also pursued Municipality of Sparta, hasoutside of the gallery building. created a small museum in theThe educational dialogue that village of Anavryti, housed inhas developed between the Art the premises of the old primaryGallery and other international school. It exhibits an interestinginstitutions is extremely botanical collection, comprisingimportant. of reference tables, sketchesExamples of such interactions and photographs concerningare the programs that take the Taygetus vegetation zones,place in collaboration with the as well as the indigenous and rare species of flora found in Taygetus. It is an important informational venue for those who really wish to get acquainted with the area. Visits arranged upon request. Anavryti Tel. 27310 81866 “Athanasios Panagiotou Goudes” Park In a green area, donated by Nikolaos Goudes, very close to the city of Sparta and on the way to Mystras, stands out this high quality exemplary recreational park, which follows European standards. The park is an ideal 33

Botanical and Geological Museum of Taygetus96\NDVdestination for entertainment, age-long olive trees, a circularrelaxation and exercise for road/ cycling road of 865mthe entire family. This elegant (running around the park), aspace offers complete leisure playground for adolescents,activities, with recently planted an open-air fitness venue forlarge grounds, olive groves with adults, a playground for children,34

a big open-air marble chess,high standard skateboard circuits,outdoor table-tennis, a rosegarden,D pond and fountains, aswell as a small amphitheatre.Eachstructure is designed in absoluterespect to the environmentPlayground in Goudes Park/MOS 2XWGRRUJ\PLQ*RXGHV3DUN026The impressive “Park Athanasios Goudes” features among other things, an artificiallake with water jets, a small amphitheatre, a skateboard course and large greenareas96\NDV 35

EVENTS OF THE MUNICIPALITY OF SPARTA)LQLVKLQJUXQQHULQ “Spartathlon”026 36

With the main emphasis given to the summer months, the entireMunicipality of Sparta becomes alive, adorned and enriched by a greatnumber of various cultural, athletic, religious and commercial events.The most important ones, are briefly presented below…Spartathlon: Following the By the following year, asteps of Pheidippides… multinational team of Greek,“Spartathlon” takes place British and other enthusiasticannually, during the last supporters of the idea, ledweekend of September, andas an ultra-marathon with agreat historical background,it is included among the mostdifficult and interesting ultra-distance races in the entireworld. It is actually a race thatrevives the footsteps of theancient Athenian long distancerunner Pheidippides, who,according to Herodotus, in 490BC, covered the distance betweenAthens and Sparta in a singleday, in order to get help for theimpending battle of Marathon…Based on the accurate reports Marble stele with the winners ofof the ancient Greek historian, the ultra-marathon96\NDVin 1982, five officers of theBritish Royal Air Force, longdistance runners themselves,travelled to Greece, led byColonel John Foden, who hadconceived the original idea.Their purpose was to ascertainwhether it was humanly possibleto cover the approximately250 kilometres that separatethe two cities, within one anda half day. The enthusiasticBritish team, ultimately provedthat Herodotus was right andafter the great success of thechallenging undertaking, themastermind of the endeavour,John Foden, begun to envisionthe establishment of a great racethat would gather long distancerunners from every corner of theworld to Greece, in order to runon the trail of the ancient runner,Pheidippides… 37

Spartathlon/LEFOS on the basis that Herodotus himself makes his reference for by the philhellene Michael Pheidippides’ mission to Sparta, Callaghan, organised the First at the same time of the year. Open International Spartathlon The route, drafted by Foden Race, its name deriving from in 1982, follows the ancient the combination of the Greek description, both to be as words “Sparta” and “Athlos” close as possible to that of the (achievement). The race was ancient runner, and at the same carried out with the approval time to ensure the passing of and under the supervision the athletes through all those of SEGAS (Hellenic Amateur ancient cities that existed Athletic Association), with between Athens and Sparta. It is the participation of 45 men a particularly demanding race, and women runners from not only because of the distance, 11 countries. The success the varying altitudes and the of the event and its appeal, alternating weather conditions, were decisive to the further but also because of the specific establishment of the race. time frame established for each Thus, in 1984, the International checkpoint. It starts at sea- “Spartathlon” Association was level, and reaches an altitude of inaugurated; since then, the 1,200 metres, passing through Association has been organizing asphalt roads, dirt roads and the race regularly every paved roads, as well as mountain September, a month chosen trails… 38 Palaeologeia Constantine Palaiologos is a symbolic figure of the nation’s collective conscience, forever linked with the destiny of Constantinople, which he heroically defended and gave his life for, falling in battle on May 29, 1453. Today, the Municipality

(“Palaiologeia” : Trisagion at the statue of the fallen Emperor96\NDVof Sparta pays tribute to him liturgy is celebrated at theand to the rest of those fallen metropolitan church of Agiosheroes, by organising annually, Dimitrios at Mystras, along withat the end of May, a cycle of a memorial service in honour ofcultural, religious and athletic the fallen emperor. A Trisagionevents at the historical seat (Sanctus) is chanted followedof the Municipality, Mystras, by a deposition of wreath at hisand its archaeological site. statue…Theatrical plays, concerts,games for children, workshops Olive and Olive Oil Festivaland seminars on the Byzantine The established three-day “OliveCivilization are included in the and Olive Oil Festival” that takescelebrations. At the culmination place at beautiful Sellasia, yearlyof the festivities, a prelatic on the first weekend of August, is a successful joint collaboration between the non-profit organisation “Olive and Olive Oil Festival” and the “Legal Entity of Culture, Sports and Environment” of the Municipality of Sparta. It was initiated in 2004 and has now become one of the most important and longest running local festivals of the area, created after the proposal of the well-known director Manousos Manousakis that its foundations )estivitiesof “Palaiologeia” 0XQLFLSDOLW\RI6SDUWD 39

The entrance of Olive and Olive Oil Festival/Municipality of Spartashould be set by the cultural and regards of the unsurpassedspiritual centre of the former Mediterranean nutrition, organicMunicipality of Oinountas. Today farming, processing and tradingit thrives as a successful example of agricultural products, theof a combination of vision, value of the above mentionedcollective action and voluntary local products and other relevantwork. issues, are ideally combined withIts main purpose and aim a diversified and of high qualityis to continuously enhance artistic program, to the delight ofthe publicity and promotion its many thousands of visitors.of the outstanding Laconian Producers, manufacturers andolive oil and Laconian olive. formulators of many LaconianA multitude of educational products, participate in thisand informational events, in wide open festivity, havingOlive and Olive Oil Festival exhibitors’ kiosks96\NDV40

fruitful and illuminative meetings CDOOiQJWR7D\JHWXVamongst them, as well with the Under the aegis of the Legalenthusiastic visitors, but mainly Entity of Culture, Sports andgaining valuable access to more Environment of the Municipalitydistant markets.(YHU\VSULQJthe of Sparta and organized by“Olive andOlive Oil Festival” the Cultural Association oftravels to the Athens Syntagma Xirokambi, this extremelymetro station, participating in the successful series of summerannual “Exhibition of Laconian events “Calling to Taygetus”Products”, bringing local which includes film screenings,products in direct contact not theatrical plays, concerts,only with the final consumer exhibitions by local artists, musicbut also with the operators of workshops and seminars, hikingthe nutrition and food sectors, trips and much more, is rightfullyfamiliarising them with their included among the mostunprecedented nutritional interesting and comprehensivequality… cultural events that the visitor of the historical Municipality of“Cultural Summer” Sparta will be able to see andThe successful series of events, experience. The events takewith theatrical plays, concerts place annually at the end ofand happenings, takes place July…every year since 1988 at theAmphitheatre Sainopouleio, Mystras Festivalunder the simple yet descriptive The famous Turkish traveller,title of “Cultural Summer”. The Evliya Celebi, a little after thecompetent artistic committee middle of the 17th century,selects, curates and organises reported that the “market atthe staging of great theatrical Mystras’ Messohora gathersgroups, actors, music ensembles 40,000 people”, a fact provingand singers, such as the National indirectly the existence of thisTheatre, the National Opera, the festival, perhaps even during theNational Theatre of Northern early Byzantine years. Today,Greece and the Orchestra of its modern and contemporaryColours. Celebrated works of version is held at the entrance ofart, coming from the Greek and the New Mystras, from Augustforeign dramaturgy, meet with 26 until September 2, with thethe music and orchestrations of “culmination” of the religiousEuropean and Greek composers, celebration occurring on Augustalong with the performance of 29, in commemoration of St.top artists. The Sainopouleio John the Baptist’s decapitation.Foundation is the main organiserof these events, under the aegis Chestnut Festivalof the Municipality of Sparta… Every last weekend of October, the “Chestnut Festival” is arranged at the charming village of Arna, on the southern limits of the Municipality of Sparta. This three-day festival with plenty 41

Chestnut Festival at Arna 0XQLFLSDOLW\RI6SDUWDof chestnuts and tsipouro, at the Local Council of Georgitsi, thevillage square, are beautifully entire population of the village,combined with a local natural as well as with the supportproducts’ market, hiking trips, as of local associations. In thewell as climbing to Mt. Taygetus “Karvounorema” park, plenty offollowing the European route E4, tsipouro, wine, meat appetizers,passing right through this bean soup and much moretraditional village… natural products are offered to the flocks of visitors, in aTsipouro Festival at Georgitsi mesmerizing mountain location,At the end of October, the surrounded by enormous“Tsipouro Festival” takes place at plane-trees, along with theGeorgitsi, under the care of the unprecedented beauty of the autumn colours of nature…42

Freshly cooked chestnuts/Municipality of Sparta 43

THE HISTORY OF THE CASTLE- TOWN OF MYSTRAS Following the traces of the last Byzantine Emperor…Mystras, the Byzantine castle-town, spreads under the cone-shaped and steep riseof the castle0XQLFLSDOLW\RI6SDUWDThe steps of the visitors echo This prominent place was createdloudly in the magical silence to protect the “back” of Sparta,of the castle-town of Mystras. namely the side towards theWalking along the stunned inaccessible areas of Taygetus.crowd of modern travellers, you The Latin prince William II ofstumble over a humble little Villehardouin, a dominantstone. You stop and think that figure in the Peloponnese and amaybe, once, this very stone was skilful and experienced general,found in the way of a member of thought that this particularthe Palaiologos family… castle on the top of the hill of “Myzithras”, which was not inhabited at that time, would44

protect more effectively the Ten years later, his unmeasuredmuch afflicted inhabitants of ambition overshadowed histhe fields, from the successive strategic skills and he wasand violent invasions, mostly heavily defeated by the better-of the Melingoi, a savage prepared Byzantine troops. Thus,war tribe which settled in the he was forced to hand overunapproachable ravines of the the three forts of Monemvasia,towering mountain. He was Maina and Mystras to Michaelabsolutely right. In the end Palaiologos, who was alreadyof 1249, the hill of Mystras renowned for the liberationwelcomed people for the first of Constantinople from thetime… crusaders, so that he and his 45

9LHZIURPWKH&DVWOHRI0\VWUDV0XQLFLSDOLW\RI6SDUWDcaptured barons could save their offering to the traveller, alonglives and escape. with the paved streets, the shadyIt was the Spring of 1262, when and cool niches, the half-ruinedthe Byzantine officials came to walls and the once majestictake over the castle. At the palaces, a truly unique touristbeginning, the area was experience in the exact placespractically given no attention, where the Greek Byzantium livedcontrary to the highly important some of its most dramatic andport of Monemvasia and the large glorious last moments…impregnable fort of Maina.Nevertheless, Mystras grew very The years of the first flourish…fast, reaching and surpassing thH The period of turmoil didprosperity of the other not simply end with thePeloponnesian towns… unconditional surrender of William II of Villehardouin. OnlyAgia Sophia, Agios Nikolaos, two years later, having raisedAgios Dimitrios, Agioi Theodoroi. skilful Franc and mercenaryThese are just a few of the troops himself, among which acountless churches which were substantial number of Turkishinaugurated and adorned the warriors that provided theirsettlement already from the paid services to him becausefirst years of its formation. A they had financial differencessettlement which also became with the Byzantines, he ignoredknown and famous as an ostentatiously the freshly signedimportant spiritual centre of the agreement with the emperor andtime, in the decades and the initiated continuous hostilities,centuries that followed, currently some of which brought about heavy defeats for the Greeks.46

The real crash of the superior in time for the growth of MystrasByzantine army in 1264 at was the year 1308, when theMakryplagi, the narrow passage commander’s office, held by eachIURP$UFDGLD to Messenia, as general for one year, becamewell as the continuation of unrestricted and practicallysporadic clashes in the wider a lifelong office. The castlearea, forced the inhabitants of started to grow once more, thisthe Laconian valley to massively time at a quicker pace, and thesettle on the hill under the castle “Commander’s” office was heldof Mystras, seeking for a safe by powerful historical figuresshelter. Residences were built, such as Manuel Kantakouzenospaved roads were formed, and Andronikos Palaiologos, whochurches were erected WR took actions so as to expandcelebrate the Christian Orthodo[ the territory of the castle-townfaith of the Byzantines, while at least up to Karytaina andwalls and fortifications were Akova. After moving the seat ofenhancedand rebuilt. By the the metropolis of Lacedaemonbeginningof 1300, what seemed here, church architectureto be an unwelcoming rocky hill flourished, as well-knownin the past, showed obvious churches were built, like thesigns of an organised and soon Metropolis which is dedicatedto be prosperous and glorious to Agios Dimitrios. Moreover,castle-town… the impressive palaces started to EXLOG, monasteries wereApart from the year 1278, when inaugurated and more luxuriousWilliam II of Villehardouin died private residences started toand the presence of the Francs appear, as the town was alreadyin the entire territory started to considered to be a substantialweaken, another crucial moment commercial, administrative, military and spiritual centre throughout the Peloponnese.9LHZRI $QRChorain M\VWUDV$LN.RNNRURX /()26 47

The palace under the starlit August sky96\NDVIt was exactly this prominent as he managed, in an exemplarystatus of Mystras that easily and way, to contain the raids ofalmost unavoidably led to its the Turks and the Francs awaydeclaration as the capital of the from his territory. Dimitrios“Despotate of the Morea” in mid Kantakouzenos, the son of14th century. Its standing lord, his brother Matthaios, also athe “Despot” enjoyed undoubted supporter of the long rivalrylifelong power and since then, between the Kantakouzenosand at least for the next three family and the Palaiologosdecades, he bore the “seal” of family, attempted to make thethe name of the legendary family Despotate independent, and as aof Kantakouzenos. For instance, result, powerful troops were sentManuel Kantakouzenos offered by emperor Ioannis Palaiologosto the inhabitants of Mystras to the Peloponnese. The crisisenviable years of peacefulness was eventually over, quite soon,and progress until around 1380, and Theodoros Palaiologos took48

over as the new “Despot” of The Metropolis, the exact spot whereMystras, while his family took the Constantine Palaiologos was crownedByzantine “baton” here too, until Emperor96\NDVthe bloody end… 49The dramatic “Palaiologan”periodAfter forging relations withConstantinople, Mystrascontinued to grow financially,politically and mainly spiritually.The Despotate was establishedin the entire region of Morea andthe Greek populations finallyfelt to a large degree relieved ofthe Francs. However, the dismal

Konstantinos Palaiologos, the famous the entire empire, he startedlast Emperor of the Byzantium026 building a series of fortifications and other works of strategicperiod of constant invasions and importance, but unfortunatelywars, up to the final defeat, had without any actual result. Thealready started and the Turks, “Hexamilion wall” across thethe Venetians, the Navarrese Isthmus of Corinth was one ofand groups of unorganised those works. He got in contactAlbanian war tribes threatened with the Pope, seeking, interthe Peloponnese and occasionally alia, to form an alliance withattempted to settle. The Hungary, in an attempt topresence of the already known jointly detain the Ottomans. InMelingoi and Ezeritai was also 1446, Murat II finally steppedconstant; using western Taygetus foot in the Peloponnese, andas their base, they never stopped Mystras with its Despote becameattacking the Despotate. The tributaries. Two years later, whenabove mentioned Theodoros emperor Ioannis PalaiologosPalaiologos was succeeded died, Constantine accepted to beby his QHSKHZ, Theodoros II, declared emperor, knowing thatand he in his turn passed his this decision and his transferalready threatened position to Constantinople, which wasto Constantine Palaiologos, under threat, would mark theDespote of Morea and last last glorious moments of hisemperor of the Byzantine life. Today, the visitor may standEmpire. Being a competent on the exact location of hisand clever governor and fully coronation, in Mystras, where theaware of the seriousness of last member of the Palaiologosthe situation, both for Mystras family repeated his oath toand for the Peloponnese and the royal emissaries Alexios Philanthropenos and Manuel 50 Palaiologos, to the priests, to the officials of the castle-town and to a few others that were chosen by History to attend his first steps towards glory… Mystras after the fall of Constantinople… Eleven years after the fall of Constantinople, namely in 1464, the town of Mystras was seized by Sigismund Malatesta of Rimini, and his soldiers plundered the town extensively, instigated by their failure to invade the castle on the top of the hill, which would remain impregnable until the