Harper’s Bazaar

Liens Collection YOUR STORIES OF LIENS

ON THE COVER NOVEMBER 2022 Boot, Givenchy Mads Mullins/IMG New York; Seven Strong/Next Models; Megan STYLE FASHION Rodrigues/State Management photographed by Andrew Arthur, Do the Bright Thing 28 AND JUST LIKE THAT… creative direction by Windy Aulia, Marvel to Behold 32 Photographed by Andrew Arthur styled by Dylan Warne. (Left) Blouse; Light Years Ahead 33 Creative direction by Windy Aulia skirt; hat; bag, Gucci. (Centre) Styled by Dylan Warne 144 Sweater; vest; trousers; ring, boot, In the Dark 34 BEING BLONDE Gucci. (Right) Dress with belt; hat; Blanket Statement 35 Photographed by Natsuko Teruya choker; gloves; bag; boots, Gucci. Styled by Windy Aulia 156 Skin Flick 37 WESTWORLD ON THE FACE On the Streets 38 Photographed by Alvin Kean Wong Sérum De Beauté Fluide Soyeux Silk The Cruise Report 40 Styled by Windy Aulia 166 Priming Serum, Gucci Beauty. The Watch This Space 52 MAD MEN Foundation, Clé de Peau Beauté. Taking Flight 54 Photographed by Pieter Hugo Pro Filt’r Instant Retouch Concealer, Styled by Samuel Drira 174 Fenty Beauty. Dior Backstage Face & FABULOUS AT Body Powder-No-Powder, Dior EVERY AGE ON THE EYES Brow Wiz, Anastasia Beverly Hills. BrowKiki Tinted Fabulous at Every Age 62 Nourishing Brow Gel, ONE/SIZE. How to Look Snatched in Corsets 64 Les 4 Ombres in 382 Lumières et Vibrations, Chanel Beauty. Think Tank 65 Diorshow Khôl, Dior. Mascara L’Obscur in 1 Eve Black, Gucci Beauty ON THE CHEEKS Blush de Beauté, Gucci Beauty. Extra Dimension Skinfinish Highlighter, M.A.C ON THE LIPS Baume à Lèvres Lip Balm, Gucci Beauty. Rouge Allure L’Extrait in 812 Beige Brut, Chanel Beauty ON THE HAIR Farewell Frizz Blow Dry Perfection & Heat Protectant Crème, Briogeo. Discipline Anti Frizz Heat Protectant, Kératase. Style Lab Flex Hairspray Styling & Finishing Spray, Living Proof. Hold It Right There! Strong Hold Hairspray, Percy & Reed MAKEUP ARTIST Christyna Kay MAKEUP ARTIST’S ASSISTANT Michelle Ramirez HAIRSTYLIST Mark Esparza HAIRSTYLIST’S ASSISTANT Olivia Mairead PRODUCTION Dirty Pretty Productions PRODUCER Anna Panova CASTING Tasha Tongpreecha SET DESIGNER Lauren Bahr SET DESIGNER’S ASSISTANT Tom Henry DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Alexey Glebko PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Mitchell Mylius STYLIST’S ASSISTANT Lily Carter ADDITIONAL ASSISTANTS Yulia Bogdanova; Saul Luzeus







NOVEMBER 2022 JEWELS & WATCHES BAZAAR MAN Natural Wonders 78 The Power of Three 107 Haute Bijoux 82 Gilded Age 112 Happy Days 84 Bling Empire 85 Stranger Things 113 It’s a Man’s World 114 Manual Transmission 86 Finding Fred 90 Prep Talk 115 Inspiration 116 Bag, CELINE A FASHIONABLE LIFE BEAUTY REGULARS A Tale of Two Cities 117 Spa Awards 2022 128 Editor’s Note 22 Talking Points 122 Beauty News 140 Get the Look 26 Greek Odyssey 124 Horoscope 106 Scents of Legacy 142 Why Don’t You? 182



NOVEMBER 2022 Executive Editor KENNETH GOH Digital Editor Editor-in-Chief CHARMAINE HO GLORIA TSO Necklace, Associate Fashion Director GRAFF Senior Digital Writer JEFFREY YAN SHERMIN NG Associate Style Editor Social Media Producer GRACIA PHANG NAVIN PILLAY Senior Beauty Editor Social Media Manager ARISSA HA JOE TAN Contributing Subeditor Senior Art Director JOYCE LIM DAPHNE TSO Creative Director Associate Art Director WINDY AULIA ALICE CHUA STUDIO OPERATIONS ADMINISTRATION & EDITORIAL SUPPORT Chief Photographer/Videographer Manager, Ad Ops VERONICA TAY LIN FENG Senior Manager JULIANA CHONG Senior Photographer/Videographer PHYLLICIA WANG Senior Executives WENDY WONG, CYNTHIA LEE Photographer/Videographer ATHIRAH ANNISSA, LAWRENCE TEO Contributing Photographers Andrew Arthur, Choi Moonhyuk, Choi Yumi, Gan, Pieter Hugo, Alyona Kuzmina, Ching Lee, Park Jongha, Laura Sciacovelli, Tan Shuo, Natsuko Teruya, Kristin Vicari, Wee Khim, Alvin Kean Wong Contributors Azhar Rahim, Renée Carl, Donson Chan, Chan Siew Boon, Samuel Drira, Jung Hyemi, Ray Kohar, Helena Lee, Seo Dongbeom, Dylan Warne, Peter Watson, Yun Hyeyoung HEARST MAGAZINES INTERNATIONAL President of Hearst Magazines International JONATHAN WRIGHT SVP/Global Editorial & Brand Director KIM ST. CLAIR BODDEN Global Editorial Director, Luxury Brands ELÉONORE MARCHAND International Editions Arabia, Australia, Brazil, China, Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Korea, Latin America, Malaysia, Netherlands, Russia, Saudi, Serbia, Singapore, Spain, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, Ukraine, UK, US, Vietnam

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EDITOR’S NOTE A STAR IS BORN P ris Fashion Week spring/summer 2023—my first full season PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHN TODS. WHITE GOLD, ROSE GOLD, YELLOW GOLD AND MULTI-GEM ENCRES TRANSFORMABLE BROOCH, CHAUMET e a . There was a profusion of celebrities who came out in full force for all the key shows; it were as though the floodgates of K-Town, Hollywood and the Grammys had been thrown wide open for the 12-day event. At Dior, Korean superstars Cha Eun Woo and Jisoo caused a near stampede in the Tuileries Garden. At Saint Laurent, Rosé, Zoë Kravitz and Hailey Bieber shared flashlights with supermodels Rosie Huntington-Whitely, Shalom Harlow and Kate Moss. Kylie Jenner lent her sizeable star power to the frow at Acne and Balenciaga. Cher walked the finale at Balmain with Creative Director Olivier Rousteing by her side. Then, there were the Hadid sisters who had all phones turned on them whenever they graced a catwalk. This doesn’t even take into account all the Instagram influencers and TikTok stars who were seated front-row, dressed by the brands in their latest collections. Which made me think: Does fashion make a star or do stars make fashion today? From what I saw, you could say the latter. In the past, it was always the marque designers who called the shots. They were the ones who decided who would be the muses, the inspiration, the friends of the House that they presided over. Today, all of that is mostly handled by their extensive marketing and PR teams who are in charge of generating the buzz and, of course, sales for that brand in their region. I remember asking a designer (who shall remain unnamed) why they loved a certain Korean star they had brought to their show— only to be met with a blank stare, followed by a glance at the head of global PR, who in turn shrugged his shoulders! The need to generate excitement across all platforms is what has made celebrity culture so powerful today. Bar a few like Dries Van Noten, Comme Des Garçons, Noir by Kei Ninomiya and Junya Watanabe (Japanese fashion brands tend to shun celebrities), famous faces today are a crucial part of a brand’s success. But what about the fashion? Fans were out to capture their favourite stars at their (no doubt paid) engagements but were they really interested in the fashion their idols were wearing? Do celebrity endorsements really educate the wider audience about what the brand represents and what it is all about? As an editor who helms print, social and digital platforms, I have to be so aware of our audience and what they want. We serve a general public but we are also here to inform and to further pique their interest in fashion. The DNA of a House, its roots and the thought processes that go into each collection are so important, especially in this day of information where fashion is seen reaching into every facet of our lives. On page 52, Jeffrey Yan’s “Watch this Space” charts the shows that have gone viral on streaming services like NetFlix, Amazon Prime and HBO; and shows how the clothes have played a large role in their successes. One thing’s for sure: The celeb-making process needs the right threads to turn Joe Bloggs into a star. And that’s why we are here to be your sartorial guide every step of the way. ■ KENNETH GOH Editor-in-Chief KENNIEBOY HARPERSBAZAARSG HARPERSBAZAARSINGAPORE HARPERSBAZAARSG HARPERSBAZAAR.COM.SG 22 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022







GET THE LOOK Ring, Chaumet Shoe, $2,165, Alexander McQueen Top, $5,200, Gucci Dress, $1,700, JW Anderson Bag, $7,200, Gucci Hat, $565, SCREEN TIME Necklace, Stella Chanel McCartney Taking inspo from what’s playing on TV, this month’s cover showcases an ensemble cast of cool kids in the latest cruise Watch, 2023 threads. Chilling out with snacks, board games and the $2,620, latest rom-com on telly, each kid takes on different characters Gucci in clothes that paint a picture of their distinct personalities. A little Gossip Girl meets Sex and the City with a dash of Emily in Paris and Euphoria. It’s showing you what’s worn is just as important as the storyline. The clothes are bold, featuring clashing prints and textures, with accessories playing a supporting role as some of this season’s most wanted extras. Skirt, BY WINDY AULIA. PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW ARTHUR Max Mara Socks, Cape, $640, $5,865, Dior Jil Sander Blush de Beaute in Top, Sandro Sunglasses, $490, LOEWE 02 Tender Apricot, $90, Gucci Beauty Trousers, $2,350, Gucci 26 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022



DO THE BRIGHT THING Dress to boost your mood. Photographer Choi Moonhyuk. Editor Yun Hyeyoung Green Peace For a fresh take on this restful hue, mix it up with an array of textures and tones. Coat; earrings, Balenciaga. Top, Recto. Trousers; stockings; sandals, Tom Ford. Bag, Alexander McQueen

Ray of Sunshine Exude good vibes and a youthful spirit in cosy and chic separates. Top, 1 Moncler JW Anderson. Skirt; bag, Max Mara. Earring, Swarovski

Electric Orange This flamboyant hue meets its match in cheeky details such as a peekaboo cutout and raised hemline. Top, Isabel Marant. Skirt, Ami. Earrings, Balenciaga. Bag (on wrist), Max Mara. Sandals, Diesel

Tickled Pink Feminine yet empowering, hot pink makes a statement in a voluminous silhouette and bejewelled accessories. Top; skirt; glove; stockings, Valentino. Bag, Chanel. Pumps, Roger Vivier Model: Bomi Youn Makeup: Yoo Hyesoo Hair: Jo Miyeon Stylist’s assistant: Kang Bookyung

1 STYLE 15 4 3 2 5 6 7 MARVEL TO BEHOLD Suit up like a superhero in neon-bright, skin-tight ensembles 11 BY GRACIA PHANG 8 12 14 9 10 13 Picks Complete your sci-fi look with sleek, sporty shades 1. Clutch, about $2,628, The Attico 2. Key charm, $180, Versace 3. Bodysuit, $64.95, H&M 4. Top, $287, Coperni at Farfetch 5. iPhone case, $350, Bottega Veneta 6. Cardholder, $220, JW Anderson 7. Leggings, Balmain 8. Earbuds, $1,700, Louis Vuitton 9. Sunglasses, Oakley 10. Dior fall/winter 2022 11. Bodysuit, about $322, Nagnata 12. Boot, $1,175, Ancuta Sarca at Farfetch 13. Dior Backstage Eye Palette in 008 Khaki Neutrals, Dior 14. Necklace, $6,900, Givenchy 15. Bodysuit, $170, SKIMS 32 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

2 Picks 5 Embrace space age 3 vibes in a 4 retro-futuristic foil dress 1 13 LIGHT YEARS AHEAD 11 12 Explore the armour-like metallics and silhouettes of fashion’s shiny new frontier 7 6 10 8 9 BY GRACIA PHANG 1. Watch, Bvlgari 2. Mini dress, $3,740, Alexander McQueen 3. Top, $333, Manning Cartell 4. Necklace, Cartier 5. Dolce&Gabbana fall/winter 2022 6. Moncler Pour Femme EDP, $289 for 150ml, Moncler 7. Dress, Balmain 8. Skirt, $159, H&M 9. Cuff, $2,690, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello 10. Dress, about $1,580, Rick Owens at Net-a-Porter 11. Ring, $580, Gucci 12. Boot, $1,272, Alexandre Vauthier at Farfetch 13. Bag, Moschino 33 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

2 STYLE 5 1 Picks 3 Bejewelled 4 accessories like this timepiece shine bright against black 16 6 IN THE 7 DARK Slay in seductive ensembles that a modern Morticia Addams would kill for 13 10 11 9 14 12 8 15 BY GRACIA PHANG 1. Watch, Bvlgari 2. Sunglasses, $681, Dolce&Gabbana 3. Shirt, $1,831, Delcore at Farfetch 4. Skirt, $2,100, Givenchy 5. Bag, Chanel 6. Dress, $4,060, Dion Lee at Farfetch 7. Gloves, $930, Gucci 8. Top, $2,540, Versace 9. Boot, $1,890, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello 10. Necklace, Boucheron 11. Ring, Cartier 12. Signatures of the Sun Ambra EDP, $447 for 180ml, Acqua di Parma 13. Trousers, Chloé 14. Ear cuff, $770, Alexander McQueen 15. Brooch, Dior 16. Valentino fall/winter 2022 34 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

5 3 1 15 4 14 2 13 6 BLANKET 7 STATEMENT Picks Swaddle yourself in colourful, cosy knits and cushy quilting With comfort and ease being the 10 watchwords, a timepiece with a rubber strap ticks all the boxes 11 12 8 9 BY GRACIA PHANG 1. Boot, Hermès 2. Necklace, Gucci 3. Shorts, about $242, Jacquemus 4. Bag, $4,530, Bottega Veneta 5. Sweater, $2,980, Alexander McQueen 6. Skirt, $1,560, Stella McCartney 7. Watch, Panerai 8. Vest, Weekend Max Mara 9. Coat, $3,685, Colville at Farfetch 10. Wallet, $780, Valentino Garavani 11. Socks, $170, Burberry 12. Heroine Mandelic & Licorice Superfood Glow Toner, $51, PSA Skin 13. LOEWE fall/winter 2022 14. Ring, Piaget 15. Sweater, & Other Stories 35 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

V isit .com.sg THIS MONTH UNDERWEAR AS OUTERWEAR Olivia Billy Porter Rodrigo WHO SAYS A BRA HAS TO BE HIDDEN? 2022 Halter bra, $120, Medusa bralette, AMERICAN adidas x IVY PARK $1,077, Versace at MUSIC Mytheresa AWARDS THE BEST DRESSED STARS ON THE RED CARPET Madelyn Re-Nylon top, Cline $1,070, Prada Leather bra, $1,115, Ambush Platinum Queen Plunge bralette, bralette top, $201, $55, SKIMS MANNING CARTELL Cardi B Bad Le bandeau Artemis bralette, Bunny Valensole, about about $113, Skin at Braids $225, Jacquemus at Dior Wet look Net-a-Porter at Victoria Side part Beckham Bedhead Sleek at at LOEWE at Fendi Givenchy SPRING 2023 PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES HAIR TRENDS TAKE YOUR INSPIRATION FROM THE RUNWAY HARPERSBAZAARSG HARPERSBAZAARSINGAPORE HARPERSBAZAARSG

BY JEFFREY YAN WAIT LIST SKIN FLICK A Gucci icon gets a modern makeover in pop brights and lush exotics No one does it quite like Alessandro Michele when it comes to delving into brand archives and resurfacing with something new—though, of course, Michele’s drive as a designer is not so much about the new as it is about new ways of looking at the past. In his Gucci collections, that translates into the familiar made surprising via uncanny pairings and unexpected contexts. Here, Michele has zoomed in on the horsebit—a detail mined from the House’s equestrian heritage—placing it front and centre on a bag that is classic in shape but utterly contemporary in spirit. Exclusive to the Southeast Asian region, the bag comes in sweet ice-cream hues that lend a playful touch to its seriously luxe medley of skins—think baby blue ostrich and multi- coloured python trimmed in violet leather. ■ The Gucci Horsebit 1955 Small Ostrich bag is $13,090 and is available at Gucci, #B1-58, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands (tel: 3138 2024). 37 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

STYLE Keep accessories Contrast the A fitted skirt to a minimum glamour of a balances and slick your feathered cape out a flowy hair back for a with rocker cape-like top classic touch chick vibes HEROINE CHIC Chanel fall/ You don’t have to be a superhero to wear a cape. As we approach the year winter end (aka party season), take the opportunity to play up the drama. An easy 2022 Sneaker, way to dive into the trend is to pick a top with a built-in cape. Go for Stuart sophistication in an all-white ensemble with a long cape secured with an Weitzman elegant brooch. Or go all out with a feathered cloak thrown over a cropped tank top and skin-tight pants for a look that is sure to turn heads. ON THE STREETS Immerse yourselves in the reel world’s different genres Bag, Sweater SINGING IN Stella vest, THE RAIN McCartney $810, JW Anderson Just in time for the year end, designers have sent a TOON TIME Jeans, parade of fun yet practical MM6 Stella rain boots down the fall/winter Maison Cartoons are a form of McCartney 2022 runways, which has us Margiela escapism and nostalgia, anticipating the monsoon fall/ which are running themes in Marni season ahead, if not winter many fashion collections as fall/ 2022 well. So it’s not surprising to winter kickstepping in puddles like Role play see the street set make the 2022 we’re Gene Kelly. Created in with an an array of autumnal hues, outré connection in outfits balaclava to splashed with illustrations in Chanel’s thigh-high complete waders are paired with the picture vibrant, joyful colour—a the house’s signature reminder that fashion should be fun. If you’d rather show tweed that are très your comic-book affiliations chic. Marni put an edgy spin to safety in a more restrained way, rubber boots with base your outfit around a spike-covered toe caps, graphic tee, or opt for an styled with snug knit sets. accessory embellished with MM6 Maison Margiela your favourite character. kept it low-key with nylon sneakers cinched at the top to keep your feet from getting wet. Decided on yours yet? 38 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

Sunglasses, Prada Sunglasses, $820, Sunglasses, Bottega Veneta Fendi Sunglasses, $800, Givenchy Sunglasses, $810, Dior BY GRACIA PHANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT SPACE JAM HOW THE WEST WAS Riding on the retrofuturistic wave, the sunglasses to be seen in now feature WORN goggle-style frames and angular, visor-inspired shapes that wouldn’t look out Interest in cowgirl couture of place on the set of Star Trek. Dior set the space age tone by opening its hit a peak last year with fall/winter 2022 show with a bodysuit criss-crossed with fluorescent green Balmain’s capsule collection inspired by Netflix Western ‘veins’, while Diesel embraced head-to-toe metallics. With the focus on The Harder They Fall. The futuristic dressing, it’s time to set your sights on a pair of sci-fi sunnies. look has since filtered down to the streets. We’re seeing Alaïa fall/ Saint Laurent fall/winter 2022 fringing on leather jackets, winter 2022 shearling vests, denims, paisley scarves, Western Chanel fall/wint boots and lots of wide- brimmed Stetsons. Balance er 2022 the prairie vibe with sharp silhouettes, pops of colour IN ARMS and sleek accessories like an P envelope clutch. U This From top: Ride into the season, everyone sunset in a vivid cowboy is invited to the arm party—more is better when it hat and leather trench. comes to bangles, bracelets and Ease into the trend with cuffs. At Chanel, both wrists were a fringed brown leather encircled with metal and tweed cuffs that jacket. Shearling and fur matched the belt and long necklaces. Alaïa and Saint Laurent layered on multiples in add a subtle Western mixed metals, resin, leather and wood. touch. Double the denim Whether you like your stacks in the same colour palette and materials, or an on your rodeo-ready eclectic combo of different styles, pile look. A leather coat them on for a bold look that packs with a flame motif, a punch worthy of Shang cinched with a cowboy Chi’s ten rings. belt, steers clear of being costumey 39 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

STYLE THE CRUISE REPORT Destination shows are back—bigger, bolder and more bombastic than ever. Jeffrey Yan delves into the most definitive collections of the cruise 2023 season 40 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

Louis Vuitton As the sun set dramatically into the Pacific Ocean—it was a strange, surreal meeting of bright cobalt sky and fiery amber rays—models paraded in perfect examples of Nicolas Ghesquière’s ingenious mix of inspirations. His obsession with everything sci-fi came through in the hits of metallics, reflective planes on bodices and accessories, as well as some oddly-familiar cross-band tanks, square bib tops, and organically-shaped 3D boleros. He revisited draping techniques from his own oeuvre, introducing brightly coloured graphic prints and tactile textures in desert hues. The boundary-pushing results left all in awe of their boldness and audacity. Ghesquière ruminated on what women would wear in the not-so-distant future—think Xanadu, Dune and Burning Man combined. It seemed only fitting that the show was staged at architect Louis Kahn’s Brutalist magnum opus, the Salk Institute, a biomedical research facility in San Diego. The first few opening looks were enough to indicate that everything was going to be otherworldly: Like high priestesses in ecclesiastical gowns walking down the travertine courtyard, models led the audience into Ghesquière’s alternate universe. Imaginative, playful and inventive, the show left us wondering if the world is ready for this much newness. Like Kahn’s masterpiece, which has been heralded as an icon of modern architecture reminiscent of the great monuments of the ancient world, Ghesquière’s vision for the Louis Vuitton cruise 2023 collection is a remarkable covergence of futuristic and archaic, medieval and millennial. — Windy Aulia 41 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

STYLE Fendi Fendi’s cruise 2023 collection celebrated a major milestone: The brand’s iconic Baguette bag (and fashion’s first It bag) has turned 25. To kick off the festivities, Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi brought the show to New York—home of Sex and the City, the TV series that helped the bag transcend its status from fashion accessory to pop culture icon. Carrie Bradshaw herself, Sarah Jessica Parker, was seated front-row alongside Kim Kardashian, Kate Moss, Naomi Watts and many, many others. It was the glitziest guest list New York Fashion Week had seen in a long time, and Jones and Venturini Fendi delivered a show to remember. Moss’ daughter, Lila Moss, opened the show in a sheer blouse and a cargo skirt (with Baguettes for pockets) layered over a sequinned slip and accessorised with a bandanna, ribbed socks, and clogs. That eclectic high-low mix was Jones’ take on the late ’90s, when the Baguette was birthed. He followed it up with looks that equally blended glam with utility and a touch of grunge: There were wispy, sparkly slip dresses worn with fuzzy jumpers or soft shearling overshirts; sequinned mini dresses under mannish parkas; leather shorts and fur bombers; and glittering skirts worn with tank tops or utility vests. The collection was also a game of spot-the-Baguette, with infinite variations ranging from oversized to teeny, tiny versions. And they weren’t just bags. Jones and Venturini Fendi turned them into charms, pendants, pockets and pouches, and plonked them onto beanies, berets, baseball hats, gaiters, gloves and belts. Jones, who in recent years has proven himself to be fashion’s ultimate collaborator, outdid himself, partnering with not just one, but two American institutions. Tiffany & Co., purveyor of uptown chic, provided the Tiffany blue that coloured a series of looks and some diamond baguettes for the Baguettes, while Marc Jacobs, king of downtown cool (and Jones’ former boss at Louis Vuitton) riffed on the couture-casual codes and graphic lettering that have become his recent signatures. 42 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

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Chanel The cosmopolitan beach setting of Monte Carlo lent itself as the perfect stage for the Chanel cruise 2023 show. To Virginie Viard, holding the show in Monaco had emotional resonance. She said: “From very early on, I knew we would hold a show here, and more precisely, at the Beach Hotel. Karl was dreaming about it. From this magnificent venue, one can glimpse his villa, La Vigie… terraces and balconies, big umbrellas, baskets of flowers—so much beauty.” And what beauty sauntered down the beach runway, along a purpose-built sidewalk lined with those exact striped umbrellas. A group of happy models filled the atmosphere with a cool, sporty vibe, wearing lots of light tweeds and silk jumpsuits lined with terry cloth. Many had sequinned and flower-shaped plastrons adorning long shirt- dresses with thin stripes and white high collars—a sartorial nod to Lagerfeld. Eveningwear standouts included a midnight blue sequinned dress and backless tops worn over wide trousers, all hallmarks of French chic. When you are as famous as Chanel and have as many icons as this House, a little quirk and humour goes a long way. Take the helmet motocross bags, the pink tennis racket kits, the baby lifebuoys dangling from the wrists, or the glittering one-armed bandit slot machine bags in opulent gold—wonderfully tongue-in-cheek and guaranteed to appeal to Chanel-philes eager to get their perfectly manicured hands on each and every one of them. Judging from the massive queues and virtually empty shelves at the Chanel boutique in Monaco, they just could not get enough. — Kenneth Goh 45 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

STYLE Dior Maria Grazia Chiuri headed to Seville for her latest Dior show. The location provided a Spanish tinge that flavoured her collection of elegant, ladylike staples. There were nods to matadors and flamenco dancers and religious garb, but Chiuri employed a subtle touch, never veering into anything too overt or clichéd. She started with a palette of black and white, and a focus on tailoring—cropped little jackets and vests, worn with high-waisted trousers. Black lace as well as swirling arabesque prints and embroideries softened the look. As the show progressed, Chiuri eased up and injected more flourish and flair: The skirts got fuller, some sporting fringe or flamenco flounces; the sleeves too, were puffed up and dropped from shoulders. Wide belts and cinched waists ensured that the body was never overwhelmed even in the more extravagant silhouettes, while riding boots grounded the looks and kept them from becoming too precious. Some pieces in black leather stood out for their tougher (but still romantic) sensibility, as did the more casual, utilitarian pieces in blue denim, or black nylon quilted in the Dior cannage pattern. 46 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

Gucci Balenciaga For his latest cruise show, Alessandro Michele whisked his guests For his first Balenciaga show staged outside of to an octagonal castle in the middle of Puglia. Under a full blood Paris, Demna headed to New York, where he moon and amidst projections of constellations and galaxies, took over the New York Stock Exchange and put Michele showed a collection that was an ode to the stars—of on a show that was as much a commentary on both the celestial and the Old Hollywood variety. The former was modern capitalist culture as it was a reiteration translated into surface decoration—twinkling embellishments and expansion of Demna-isms—exaggerated and embroideries set onto a black coat with faux fur sleeves and classics and elevated streetwear—that have turned trimmings, for instance, or onto the witchy gown in midnight blue the brand into a billion-dollar juggernaut. On the that closed the show. There was also a fringed mini dress that trading floor, with screens flashing the names and glistened like the night sky reflected in dark water. A flowing cape logos of mega-companies like Coke, Twitter, Visa had crystals fanning out in the pattern of sunray pleats; another and Disney, Demna sent out a collection that built was poured around the body like liquid silver. The nods to Old on where his first haute couture outing left off. Hollywood came through in Michele’s ’30s and ’40s references: But where that collection was serene, monastic the lean tailoring with its straight, sharp shoulders and extended almost, this one had a menacing undertone to it. hemlines, the hats with the extra-wide brims, and the gowns—wispy The first look set the mood: A strong-shouldered, in sheer chiffon, or shimmering with thousands of sequins. floor-length coat worn with a giant pussybow and a latex gimp mask—all in black. It was American Psycho meets American Horror Story. Demna kept up the fetish bodywear underpinnings all the way through, lending a dark, Lynchian thrill to looks both corporate and casual—tuxedos and suits, trench coats and cocoon wraps, and evening gowns in silks and sequins. They were worn with padded pumps and derbies blown up to clownish proportions, further adding to the deliberately unsettling quality of the proceedings. ■ ADDITIONAL REPORTING: KENNETH GOH; WINDY AULIA 47 HARPER’S BAZAAR NOVEMBER 2022

BAZAAR Showcase Top; matching skirt; Dior Tribales earrings; D-Renaissance choker; Dior Granville ring; Rêve D’Infini ring; Saddle belt; Dior Jardin d’Hiver fan; micro Lady Dior bag, Dior GOLDEN GIRLS For cruise 2023, Maria Grazia Chiuri weaves a tale of glamour and grit by playing off gorgeous, glittering dresses and delicately embroidered bags against tough leather belts and boots. Photographed by Laura Sciacovelli