NZToday-Special Collectors Edition South Island Walks and Cycle Trails

NZTODAY BEST OF SOUTH ISLAND WALK & CYCLE TRAILS | QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK | LINK PATHWAY | LABYRINTH ROCKS GOLDEN BAY | GREAT TASTE TRAIL TASMAN | HAMMER SPRINGS ST JAMES | ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL | ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL OTAGO | CENTRAL OTAGO RAIL TRAIL | AROUND THE MOUNTAINS SPECIAL COLLECTORS’ EDITION QUEENSTOWN | LAKE TO LAKE FIORDLAND | OLD GHOST ROAD BULLER | WILDERNESS TRAIL WEST COAST | PAPAROA TRACK | PIKE 29 MEMORIAL TRACK WEST COAST NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION Best of South Island Walk & Cycle Trails MARLBOROUGH – Queen Charlotte Track, $9.95 inc. TRADING AS MAGAZINE SOLUTIONS Link Pathway and Wairau Lagoon GST GOLDEN BAY – Coppermine Trail and Labyrinth Rock Park HAMMER SPRINGS ST JAMES CONSERVATION PARK MT COOK TO ŌAMARU – Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail OTAGO – Roxburgh Gorge Trail and Otago Central Rail Trail SOUTHLAND – Queenstown trails and Around the Mountains FIORDLAND – Twin Lakes trail and Routeburn Track BULLER – Old Ghost Road and Kawatiri River Trail WESTLAND – Wilderness Trail, Lake Kaniere and Brunner, Paparoa-Pike 29 Memorial Track

NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION South Island Best of Walk & Cycle trails Following the Kawarau River in the Gibbston Valley Photo Queenstown Trail



NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION 30 Best of South Island 16 26 Walk & Cycle Trails 22 90 96 36 10 100 109 120 116 42 84 56 64 50 70 78 Riding between the boulders of Skyline Ridge (credit Hage Photo)

CONTENTS Marlborough 10 Queen Charlotte Track – breathtaking views from this historical trail, a must do in the Marlborough Sounds 16 Link Pathway – from Anakiwa to Picton following Queen Charlotte Sound 22 Wairau Lagoon Walkway – perfect for bird lovers, families and nature lovers Tasman – Golden Bay 26 Coppermine Trail – a cycle loop around Dun Mountain for grade 3-4 riders 30 Labyrinth Rock Park – walking trails, caves and waterfalls to explore Hanmer Springs Canterbury 36 St James Conservation Park – cycle and walking trails close to the famous spa and hot springs of Hanmer village Mackenzie – Mt Cook to Ōamaru 42 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail – running from Aoraki/Mt Cook to Ōamaru, this is one of the longest and most spectacular rides in New Zealand Otago 50 Roxburgh Gorge Trail – a stunning ride along the gorge, with a 13km jet boat trip to finish off a perfect day 56 Otago Central Rail Trail – New Zealand’s oldest cycle trail, the trail everyone should have on their must-ride list Southland 64 Queenstown trails – from the heart of Lake Wakatipu to the vineyards of the Gibbston Valley 70 Around the Mountains – 180km of stunning scenery from Southland to North Otago Fiordland 78 Twin Lakes Trail – exploring Te Anau and Manapouri Lakes 84 Routeburn Track –from Glenorchy to Routeburn Flats, one of the nine Great Walks West Coast 90 Buller – Old Ghost Road, a challenge in the mountains that’s not for the faint-hearted 96 Kawatiri River Trail – perfect for its native bush, tidal estuaries, beach, historical relics and birdlife, and you’re never far from art and craft galleries or a café 100 Pike 29 Memorial and Paparoa track – a sneak peak at the development of the first Great Walk to be built in over 30 years 109 Greymouth – The Wilderness Trail is perfect for all and coastal-lake- mountain views will astound as you walk or cycle along this trail 116 Lake Kaniere – an inland gem for walking, cycling or canoeing not far from Hokitika 120 Lake Brunner – a secluded piece of paradise for watching, walking, cycling or just simply bird watching

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NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION South Island Best of Walk & Cycle trails Southern Stunners W e are very pleased to bring to you this collection of shared South Island adventures from the pages of NZTODAY and RV Lifestyle magazines, with our writers taking everyone on personal journeys down pathways and trails some of us will never tread on personally. We hope that others will be so inspired by these stories that they will add these trails and areas to their ‘must-do’ lists. For many more these stories will bring back incredible memories – and encourage many others to get planning to create their own memories. I know that I have been personally inspired by older members of my family as I read their online posts talking about the many trails they have completed over the last few years. So many of our RV friends have embraced and, indeed, have gained a new lease on life by throwing their leg over the trusty bicycle; admittedly with the probable addition of some electric power in order to make it just as much fun as it is healthy. The bicycle is having a major resurgence worldwide. Studies from around the world are raving about the health, environmental and community benefits that come from walking and cycling specifically, facts that simply can’t be argued with. It is heartening on so many levels that governments both national and local, in many countries, have appropriate strategies and plans based upon the findings of these studies reaching many years into the future. Enjoy the journeys described. Many of them are Grade 1 or 2 and are suitable for most riders; others are for the more experienced, hardy riders. It is important to understand your level of ability and match it to the trails you plan to take on; there is a plethora of information available online and at tourism i-SITEs and DOC offices around the country, so there are few surprises out there if you do a little research. What our writers do for you though is paint a word picture, and if you use Gary Patterson’s Great Rides App there’s some excellent video footage as well. What you will learn from Gary in this issue is all about his journey as he aids in the charting and tramping out of the survey track for the first Great Walk to be built in over 30 years – this is the story of the Paparoa Track and Pike29 Memorial Track. Every time I walk on a DOC track, bridge or trail I always wonder about its designer. I am constantly giving thanks (via a song and a prayer) to the people who built the swing bridge I’m on at the time, or walking on trails that give us such amazing access to what is seriously the most beautiful country in the world. If you’re one of those people, I say it here to you and to all the people involved with volunteering, or in the local Trusts that make so many of these trails a reaility, thanks – thanks from all of us and our readers. Be inspired and enjoy. Editor-Publisher Cover photos: St James Cycle Trail - Photo Hurunui Tourism | Hooker Valley track - Photo Johan Lolos Editor Robyn Dallimore E: [email protected] Bruce Mountain uses Sub edit + proofing team Thiers Halliwell, Allan Walton photographic equipment Advertising Enquiries Bruce Mountain E: [email protected] M: 021 657 090 ISSN 1176-3051 Office / Subscriptions Laura Atkinson E: [email protected] Design + Production Cameron Leggett - camleggettphoto.com NZTODAY is published by RnR Publishing Ltd Contributors Gary Patterson, Matt Winter, Justine Tyerman Ph: + 64 6 306 6030 Image + Printing PMP Maxum Auckland PO Box 220, 28 Oxford Street, Martinborough, 5711, New Zealand Disclaimer RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence in the preparation of this magazine, but is not responsible or liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions or typographical errors. RnR Publishing Ltd prints advertisements provided to the publisher, but gives no warranty and makes no representation to the truth, accuracy or sufficiency of any description, photograph or statement. RnR Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for any loss that may be suffered by any person who relies either wholly or in part upon any description, photograph or statement contained herein. Advertisers are advised that all advertising must conform to the ASA Codes of New Zealand Advertising; full details and codes book available from asa.co.nz. RnR Publishing Ltd reserves the right to refuse any advertisement for any reason. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating NZTODAY magazine is copyright 2019 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher. Special Edition 2019 5

NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION South Island Best of Walk & Cycle trails Throw a leg over The bicycle has taken over the country, with the e-bike giving all age groups the opportunity to enjoy the great trails around the country Words Robyn Dallimore Photo Gary Patterson PEDAL YOUR WAY TO HEALTH, BOTH The National Cycleway was one of the ideas that came out of the government’s 2009 Employment Summit following the global financial WPHYSICAL AND MENTAL meltdown of 2008. The government committed $50 million to the e’re lucky in New Zealand to have 13 national parks project over a three-year period, with additional funding of $30 million covering around 2,000,000 hectares of land, which coming from regional stakeholders, sponsorship, charitable trusts and to paraphrase the Te Ara: The Encyclopaedia of New grants. This funded the construction of the Great Rides, starting with Zealand website, were constituted to preserve in the existing popular walking tracks in reserves and national parks perpetuity for the benefit and enjoyment of the public, “areas of New around the country. Zealand that contain scenery of such distinctive quality, or natural features so beautiful or unique, that their preservation is in the national A 2016 study indicated that 75 per cent of New Zealanders say they interest”. would ride a bike if more of the network met their needs. New initiatives will see a push towards easing city congestion, reducing greenhouse gas As the publishers of two magazines that work hard on taking readers emissions, improving community social and economic opportunities on journeys to all corners of our country, we’ve featured many of our as well as benefiting our health. most famous walking and cycling trails. I’ve followed developments with interest since 2009 when the National Cycleway Fund was established, The Government Policy Statement 2018 supports a 10-year plan watching the implementation, growth and development of the New that prioritises and supports investment in liveable cities, increasing Zealand Cycle Trails. transport options around cities with investment in walking, cycling and public transport options. This plan targets the extending of existing When Tourism Minister John Key announced a $50 million budget cycling networks, linking these to public transport hubs and developing to get that project underway, he said the aim was to generate lasting linking tourism opportunities with Urban, Heartland and Great Rides economic, social and environmental benefits for New Zealand corridors up and down the country. communities through the creation of a network of world-class cycling experiences. Along with bike safety programmes in schools and in communities, improvements in safety and accessibility for all is working in tandem “The New Zealand Cycle Trail will take you off the beaten track where with the drive to get communities mobile, encouraging work places to you’ll get to meet the locals and learn about New Zealand’s culture and offer bike parking and potential incentives. heritage while enjoying our iconic scenery,” he said at the time. In October 2016, an evaluation report was released with respect to Laws on what is a bicycle the New Zealand Cycle Trail, and some very interesting facts and figures came out in that report, along with a range of specific recommendations See this info from the NZTA website which lays out the rules. to guide and assist all the parties involved. Recommendations included Power-assisted Cycles (Declaration Not to be Motor Vehicles) Notice 2013  the need for dedicated personnel for marketing and promoting cycle Pursuant to section 168A(2) of the Land Transport Act 1998, and pursuant trails, the involvement of local or central government in the governance to an authority delegated to me by the General Manager, Access & Use, and management of each trail, dedicated resources to maintain the cycle of the NZ Transport Agency, I, Ian Baggott, Manager Technical Support trails, and a national body to give leadership, direction, guidance and Certification & MVR, declare power-assisted cycles (as defined below) fitted support moving forward. with electric auxiliary propulsion motor(s) that have a combined maximum power output not exceeding 300W not to be motor vehicles. In brief, the evaluation report showed that 1.3 million people used these trails, about 86 per cent of these users were domestic travellers while 14 per cent were international travellers. Cyclists spent just over 6 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

$37 million dollars regionally. NZ Transport Agency offers great advice NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz So today, we have 22 Great Rides with trails running for 2500km on electric bikes. We quote them here along with a few personal notes. Here through our stunning countryside, and many of these rides travel are some top tips to help make riding an through our national parks, adding another activity for visitors. e-bike fun and comfortable for everyone. Our key cities and towns have Urban Cycling Network tracks to entice Getting used to your e-bike residents to travel by bicycle, plus we have Heartland Rides connecting E-bikes are typically heavier than regular bikes which means they handle our Great Rides, and many smaller rural trails. differently. Like any new bicycle it is best to get used to how the bike handles before heading out on the road. It’s best to start somewhere A health study has shown that being a walker puts you into a healthier where you have a bit of space and can have a go at: category, but add in cycling and your survival rate really jumps up. The • Adjusting the power settings report lists savings of $12 million through reduced mortality risk and • T esting how the bike responds when stopping and starting cost savings from treating diseases associated with physical inactivity. • T urning, balancing and negotiating obstacles with different levels of Small communities too are benefiting from the cycleways through power assist the growth of associated businesses providing food, hospitality, R emember, if the motor is in the front wheel and the bike has a throttle, accommodation, bike hire and shuttle services, which was one of the go gently when cornering. The NZ Transport Agency suggest buying an objectives back in 2009. With this growth in new businesses, employment e-bike with a motor located in the middle or rear of the bike, rather than has increased, specifically in the hospitality sector, as these healthy the front wheel, as these generally handle much more like non-powered walkers and cyclists seem to really enjoy eating, drinking and spending bikes. money in retail stores, aside from the obvious accommodation and Editor’s note: It is important to understand the weight of your bike in rental motorhomes spending. relation to your car’s bike-rack weight rating. Make sure your bike rack BICYCLES can handle 60kg minimum for two bikes – talk with the bike retailer about this. The batteries are heavy, so if they are removable it is Hand-in-hand with the development of cycle trails has been the sale advisable to take them off and carry them inside the car. If you have a of bikes, be it road bikes, off-road or serious mountain bikes. And as we motorhome you should confirm the weight capacity that can be installed Kiwis are a very trendy lot, we’ve leapt onto the electric bike trend that onto the body or chassis. has grown hugely throughout Europe over the last 10 years. My electric bike has a rear-wheel motor, which was recommended for my body size when purchased – the sales person tested me out on various We do love our bicycles – between 1900 and 1950 here in New models for body height – arm length – leg length. Whereas the bike Zealand nearly 800,000 bikes were imported or manufactured. During Bruce has just ordered is a middle-motor mount; this was recommended the late 1930s there was one bike for every six people, but alas, by the for him as he has a larger frame and weight ratio than me, so this setup 1950s as cars became cheaper and more available, bikes were gradually will work for his body type. Size and weight can also be a factor for relegated to back sheds. wattage and torque on the motors – see separate info box. Don’t let friends just borrow your e-bike as they will likely crash it pretty Today though, there’s such a variety of styles, shapes, heights and quickly. Use the same rules as above about having space to learn how wheel sizes it can make your head spin. I had a great retro-style bike the bike works. My brand-new e-bike was ‘test driven’ by a local, slightly with hand- and back-pedal brake, and no gears – a great road cruiser older gentleman at a vineyard on our first day out; he accelerated and but terrible for off-road. Rocky has an electric bike that goes on-road, went straight into the vines and scratched it up, because he didn’t expect and is okay on grade 1 trails. and couldn’t handle the sudden burst of power. But if we wanted to do some off-road grade two or higher trails, we Darleen from Bikes and Barbers in Newmarket, here she is setting the handlebar angle for my arms would need mountain bikes with gears, great brakes (maybe disc) and possibly suspension forks. The Urban and Heartland trails can be concrete, asphalt or hard ground, and the Great Rides can be hard ground grade 1 easy tracks to grade 5 extreme off-road tracks over boulders and jumps. Getting a bicycle that will suit you and where you want to go is actually quite important. The size/height of the wheels needs to be right for your body, and the tread on the tyres needs to be appropriate for where you’ll use that bike as well. And now of course, there’s the manual or electric factor to consider. From my perspective as a motorhome owner and traveller, the number of 75 to 85-year-old people I meet on the road whose lives have been transformed by getting out and about on a power-assisted bike leads me to say “Go for it!” Admittedly, the price tag can make your eyes water on some models; for around $2,000 to $2,500 you can get everything you need, but if you like the real fancy carbon fibre technology, then you can blow up to $8,000 – but then road cyclists can spend thousands as well, so it really is horses for courses. My recommendation is that you pop into your local bike shop to get some advice, then try some different height and styled bikes. Some e-bikes have an accelerator system that potentially can put them into a moped category legally with NZTA, so do check that out. The majority are power assist, so they help you as you pedal, but they also have a jump start to give you a push off at the lights. Talk about your individual use and needs and get the bike that is right for you. Special Edition 2019 7

Introduction Throw a leg over Go for a test ride of a couple of kilometres, I went to Bikes and Barbers of Newmarket in When out and about including going up and down a hill or two if 2018 and got fitted for a new electric bike. I can on your e-bike you can. Some shops will rent you a bike for a now go off-road, up and down dale as much day or two so you can try it out. as I want to, with plenty of power to overtake Safety on the roads the Rock. There’s room for a little person in a When riding an e-bike you’ll probably be My cruiser bike is no good to me except on nice seat on the back as well as a few packages in travelling at higher speeds than a regular flat roads, like the ones here in Martinborough the front basket area – I am set up and happy bike. Extra caution should be taken at – perfect. But off-road or on a track, it’s a pedal- to hit the trails. higher speeds. Ensure you scan well power nightmare. Something had to be done. ahead, signal your movements and keep an eye out for cars turning in and out Photo Jason Blair of driveways and side roads. Be aware that at intersections drivers might not Definitions  expect you to start off at speed, so it’s important to be in a prominent road Cycle means: position and make eye contact with (a) A vehicle that has at least two wheels and that is designed primarily to be propelled by the muscular drivers that may turn across your path. energy of the rider; and Power assist (b) Includes a power-assisted cycle. Because e-bikes are heavier, when taking Power-assisted cycle means a cycle to which is attached one or more auxiliary propulsion motors that off at an intersection or uphill, ensure have a combined maximum power output not exceeding 300W. that you have changed down to a low gear. Pedal assist usually kicks in on Definition of Electric scooters or e-scooters the second rotation of the pedals, so if An electric scooter is designed in the style of a traditional push scooter, with a footboard, two or three you have it in a high/faster gear you’ll wheels, a long steering handle and an electric auxiliary propulsion motor. In order to meet the requirements experience a surge in power and will for a low-powered vehicle, the wheels must not exceed 355mm and the motor must have a maximum take off quickly – make sure you allow power output not exceeding 300W. for this. Use advanced stop boxes where possible to give you a head start. IMPORTANT – WATTAGE Passing cyclists The maximum possible wattage stated of the electric motor is not necessarily the same as the maximum You might find yourself passing other power output of the e-scooter. The rules say 300 watts is the maximum for a rail trail, but you can cyclists on busy routes. When passing buy e-bikes with 500W or more motors that are legal and classed as a power assisted bike, here is the other cyclists make sure you pass safely. interpretation. Look behind you for traffic, and signal Maximum power output is determined by multiplying the battery voltage by the controller’s maximum before pulling out. Allow sufficient space amperage output. For example, a 600W motor and a 12V battery with a controller that has a maximum when passing and let the other people output of 21 amperes creates a maximum power output of 252W – so 252W is the relevant figure, even know you are passing by calling out, e.g. though the motor has a potential output of 600W. ‘on your right’ or by ringing your bell. ED: So the 300W argument between companies and outlets selling bikes is complex, and unmeasurable Shared paths in real terms for the lay person looking at a bike and its motorisation. For example the new e-bike ordered Shared paths are for slower more relaxed for Bruce will be 500W, but will produce less than 300W at the business end with all the factors in play, so travel. On a shared path you should put ‘legally’ trail friendly. your e-bike in a low power setting and cycle at a speed consistent with other users so 8 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz that it does not put others at risk or make them feel uncomfortable when you pass. On the footpath the user must: • Operate the device in a careful and considerate manner • Operate the device at a speed that does not put other footpath users at risk • Give way to both pedestrians and drivers of mobility devices. Getting the most out of your battery For long distances you can extend the battery range by using lower power settings and pedalling more. From the nzta.govt.nz website NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

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Marlborough Queen Charlotte Track 10 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

A Resounding Ride Chasing history on the Queen Charlotte Track Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited 1 Special Edition 2019 11

Marlborough Queen Charlotte Track 2 the first saddle; it’s now mid-morning and sweat drips off me in the building summer heat. This section of track is being rerouted to reduce It’s nearly Christmas as I motor my way around the tight bends the steep grades, and next time I come back after the celebrations this of Queen Charlotte Drive to the pretty port of Picton where my steep hill should be no sweat. As I walk, I like how the inlets are named next adventure begins. The road straightens. I get a glimpse of after Cook’s vessels – I climb out of Resolution Bay and drop onto the Queen Charlotte Sound glistening in the sun, its long channel flat track that circles Endeavour Inlet. I enjoy the sound of the waves named by explorer Captain James Cook after the wife of British ruler that lap beside my tread and the rickety wooden jetties used to offload King George III. Over the next couple of days I intend to travel from gear to holiday homes that are tucked away in the forest. Some walkers the start of Queen Charlotte Track (out near Cook Strait) to the inner elect to stay at the various lodges I pass, but I seek my bike and tent reaches of the sound, a popular journey for a generation of trampers dropped off by boat on the opposite shore at Camp Cove. After my and now for a new breed of cycle explorers. It’s the last month of the circumnavigation of the bay I reach my gear and enjoy an ice cream at year, and the first section of track is closed to summer riders giving the resort. It’s time to consider my options. While camping here looks hikers a reprieve from wheeled traffic during the peak season. I actually idyllic, surrounded as it is by forest only a stone’s throw from calm welcome this restriction, as it forces me into a multi-faceted journey of water taxi, walking and wheeling. So after purchasing a track pass 3 I board a boat that cruises these sheltered waters, stopping briefly to drop off my bike partway along the track. The boat docks at Ship Cove, the start of the track and also Captain Cook’s regular refuge. History here runs deep and is measured in fathoms. Once off the jetty I spend some time at the monument to understand this place in history. As I stand on the pebbles of the cove, on the same ground as Cook’s men, the view I see is little changed from what Cook’s eyes must have seen nearly two-and-a-half centuries ago. The waters no longer moor tall ships, but it’s an incredible outpost and one that the famed explorer visited on five occasions, spending 100 days here to resupply during his global voyages. He described the place as a “very snug cove”, and I feel warm at the thought that this early navigator was once here. There are grand plans to celebrate the anniversary of his first landing 250 years ago in January 2020 – there is some track work taking place near the trailhead to get the site ship-shape in time for guests. My mind snaps to the present – I have to make my own mark on history. Time to lift anchor and to plot my course through an ocean of forest; my navigation guided not by compass or stars but by circling satellites above helping me to make the Great Rides App. My first steps out of Cook’s Cove are upward and I delighted in gaining a better outlook over the snug cove. I continue through the coastal forest to 12 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

waters, I still have plenty of light and energy left for 4 1. The Sounds are a relaxing the day. I continue on. offered a cuppa. As I drink I am quickly rehydrated place to unwind. Photo: Queen So I leave the cove and warm up my riding legs, and energised and soon we are in deep discussion. pointing my front tyre up towards the top of the Having headed south from Cape Reinga two months Charlotte Track Inc. peninsular ridgeline. With effort, eventually reach ago these hikers are roughly halfway through their the saddle of this steeply serrated sliver of land that expedition … and are they loving it! They tell me 2. Ship Cove has changed separates the Queen Charlotte and Pelorus Sounds. the route gives them a perfect way to explore the The view up here is impressive, but as I pass Eatwells countryside and mountain terrain – often places little since Captain Cook’s days Lookout I am starting to fade. The journey to capture most Kiwis never visit. Like Cook, these folks are data for the app has been a demanding series of on a journey of discovery of our southern land. I 3. Endeavour Inlet is trailside multi-day rides recently, and the track’s frequent wish them well in the fading light, pitch my tent hill climbs with a heavily laden bike are taking their and bunk down. perfection toll. After a refreshing descent I am faced with an impossible-looking slope – in my poor state the hill 4. View from one of the looks more suited for funicular transport than riding up under my own power. I am beat. Reluctantly and lookouts on the trail slowly I push on up. If there was a low point of my ‘Great Year’ cycling all the 22 New Zealand Great 5. Rusty relics make for a Rides then this is it. Right here. But my dark thoughts don’t linger long as I crest the hill and arrive at the memorable experience Bay of Many Coves campsite. Sweet relief! I am greeted at the campsite shelter by a fresh- looking German couple who are walking the entire country on Te Araroa. I’d like to stand and talk but I’m shattered with tiredness. There is no hiding my fatigue as I lean against my bike, and I am generously 5 Special Edition 2019 13

Marlborough Queen Charlotte Track Up with birdsong, I am renewed. A colourful sunrise 6 Update Box beams shafts of light across the valleys to spotlight the many coves below. Feeling refreshed and in a better never returned home. I take short detour down to The trail has recently been state of mind, I eat, pack up camp, log a waypoint and Portage, and rest at Cowshed Bay camping area to realigned out of Ship Cove ride off towards the highest point along the track. dip my feet in the water and to have a late lunch. making for a gentler and a The trail is really starting to open up now and I am Restored, I ride back to the saddle and continue in longer climb before dropping rewarded with views down to both Sounds from the a south-west direction past Te Mahia saddle and into Resolution Bay. This ridge. I love the way the aspect of the track changes, down on an easier trail towards Anakiwa. Before you is a welcome improvement flipping between each side of the ridge and altering know it I reach Davies Bay campsite, which looks as it means the steep pinch the way I see light on the landscape and the many like one of the best on the track with its grassy lawns of a climb at the northern arms of the waterways. Just when the heat of the extending right down to the water’s edge. It looked start of the trail is now much day peaks, the track dives into shadows of the cool like a perfect place for a dip. I grant myself another easier. The Link Pathway forest that cloaks the hillside like a textured green spell at this peaceful camp, the ebb of the tide like that connects the end of fabric providing me with cover. Then the towering the receding amount of trail left before I return to the Queen Charlotte Track height of the ridge relents, my wheels pick up pace in civilisation. I could quite easily pitch my tent here at Anakiwa to Picton and a grand descent; it seems like the ridgeline is taking and spend a day or two in recovery, a perfect place Havelock is expected to be me for a ride, its backbone swiftly scooping down to to relax and unwind from any of life’s pursuits, but all joined up by the end of take a sip from the saline waters. The rush of air past summer. my helmet ceases as I reach Torea Saddle barely 100 metres above the tiny coastal settlement of Portage. As a cartographer I love the name Portage – a place with meaning. The toponym is derived from a time when Māori carried canoes over the narrow saddle between the two Sounds, thus avoiding 100 kilometres of paddling. The saddle also features two war memorials remembering the 29 soldiers who did not return from the world wars. For a small community, the fall of this number of men must have been tough, no more so than for the grieving parents of the three Taylor brothers who 7 14 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

my boat pick up awaits so I keep cycling. and links the various settlements in the area; the Trail Trust hopes to The last couple of kilometres are a joy to ride and offer little glimpses complete the missing links before the Cook anniversary celebrations commence. I will need to return to ride this new coastal trail that will of the upper Grove Arm and the settlement of Anakiwa – my journey’s connect the twin ports of Picton and Havelock. end. I reach the cluster of homes and find shelter under a large tree to await the water taxi back to Picton. I save the GPS track data that The skipper departs and motors across the arm to complete the records the 70 kilometres of joy and toil, and celebrate with a cool drink circuit. The sea spray keeps me awake and my weary mind wanders from the nearby shop. While sitting, sipping and talking to a local, I as my eyes follow the green slopes searching for the faint lines of the discover that where my journey finishes another trail begins. Had I track I had pedalled hours earlier. I had enjoyed the ride, the people known earlier that I could cycle back to Picton via the new Link Pathway and the Marlborough Sounds by both boat, boot and bike. Despite my I would have continued. The new purpose-built path is nearly finished desire to camp, I passed a good range of accommodation along the way. Some people I met were shuttling their gear between lodges to reduce the burden of lugging it, while others I talked to opted for shorter day trips. I had found that this track explores heritage that is tucked away into the snug coves; it’s a ride on ridges as well as a coastal trail providing options for both comfort and challenge. For me, the Queen Charlotte Track is a resounding ride, a trail that snakes between the Sounds offering a journey of discovery of water, land, history and oneself. Like the legendary navigator who repeatedly returned to the Sounds, I too will plot my way back next time via the Great Rides App! This story featured in NZToday issue 84. 6. The war memorial above Portage is a sobering sight 7. The bays in some inlets are mesmerising 8 8. The Sounds truly are a kiwi gem. Photo: Queen Charlotte Track Inc. Statistics 72km Intermediate and Advanced Trail (Grade 3+4, still some Expert grade 5 parts) Official Links: www.qctrack.co.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores Special Edition 2019 15

Marlborough Link Pathway Linking up the Queen’s Chain From Anakiwa to Picton alongside Queen Charlotte Sound Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited 16 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Ican still remember when I clicked on a video link and discovered the Link Pathway of the Marlborough Sounds. What I saw was cyclists whipping along a forest path following the turquoise coastal arms that wrap around headland points and seemingly endless bays. The drone footage of hikers and bikers looked surreal. Their joy! Their journey! Theirs was a role that I so wished to be cast in … and I was in luck. It just so happened that the Great Rides App annual cycling pilgrimage crossed this path; to pass up on this new ride would be unforgivable to me, so in autumn I entered the location of Linkwater into my Garmin GPS unit and scouted out the trail. In planning the trip, I decide to ride from Anakiwa to Picton, a journey all linked up now. Last time I rode the Queen Charlotte Track, the options to return to Picton were either by road or water taxi as the trail was still incomplete. Today I start my journey at Anakiwa, being the end of the Queen Charlotte Track, and will pedal all the way to Picton on a purpose-built cycle trail. Before I head off I flick on the GPS units, enter a waypoint and start making tracks in both a digital and physical sense. It’s hard not to enjoy this section of the Link Pathway. The easy course seamlessly wraps around the points and bays of the inner reaches of the Queen Charlotte Sound. My senses alive, I enjoy the sound of the lapping water, the saline smells and the view of the changing landscape. Soon the turquoise waters (just like the hues I remember from the video) over my left shoulder become brackish and brown as the reach of the Grove Arm ends and I meet up with Queen Charlotte Drive. To the right and westward, the trail has yet to be linked to Havelock, so I turn left and head east to The Grove on the shore opposite Anakiwa. Once a mill town named after an extensive grove of kahikatea that once stood here, today the hamlet is an idyllic collection of coastal baches. I slow my pace to appreciate the arty animalised letterboxes along the route – as I enter the community a jersey cow box greets me, followed 1 by a tuatara, a dog and a pigeon. Special Edition 2019 17

Marlborough Link Pathway Then I spot my favourite, perched and seemingly floating above the road with googly eyes that watch me from the opposite bank, a fat red staring snapper. I wonder if the posties on their deliveries have their favoured ones too? Do they prefer to hook into a snapper than receive a nip from a poised terrier letterbox? As I ride by I wonder whether the joy of comic characters will be lost in this electronic age, where aerial mail will return not as pigeon post but as parcel drones whirring down from the sky(?) – questions that are posted in the depths of my mind; whimsical ponderings triggered by an unusual find. On leaving the village I pass a collection of 2 boatsheds, each one a different colour, with rusty ramps that disappear into the shallows. At this point, I am riding a scenic and idyllic spot with services. I think that next time I visit will through the coastal forest as the trail takes me right beside the tide line. be with our caravan in tow. How much better it would be to stay on the So close in fact, that the shimmering light on the water dazzles me until trail than in more urban confines? Had it been a summer’s day I would the path rises and curves away and the water becomes just an occasional be in for a swim, but today I head inland to climb the hills behind the bay. The brief ascent of the hill is worth the climb as I am rewarded by one of the most scenic views of the innTMer Queen Charlotte Sound. At a lookout, I stop for a moment and drink it all in. Far below me through the vegetationTiMs Queen Charlotte Drive snaking along the coastline; there are homes tucked into the scrub, and the telltale criss-cross patterns of ttwhaint ktwleitshtsroauroghunthdehceaandolpayn.dTsh, iasngdenetalechgrtaivmeletritacdkoteaskietsomffeerosnmaTMejoaunrnnzeewy electric bikebay to explore. This is coastal riding at itsnbzest. The last prominent point TM electric bikeoffers a glimpse of the half-circle shape of Momorangi Bay. The first electric bike electric bikething I discover is how this Department of Conservation camping spot goes right down to the water’s edge. While quiet today, I suspect it’s a boat wakes highlight activities on the water. For my terrestrial pursuit, popular and traditional Kiwi holiday site at other times of the year, being it’s time to return to the saddle and descend into Ngakuta Bay. electric electricnzTM wORbwoDwuikE.rtRenfrOiptNutbLelIiNsrhsEinTgO.cDoA.nYz TM enlez ctric bike bikeelectric bikeNZ CO-CONCESSIONAIRES, REGIONAL EXCLUSIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS Font: Bauhaus Md BtAND VAST IMPROVERS OF THE PRORIDER (AKA EZI) BIKE SUPERTOURER outfittersFont: TM of new zealand Bauhaus Md Bt ofPantone Hexachrome Orange C new zealand TM Road & TrailPantone Hexachrome Orange C • Best-in-Class 17.5AmpHour • 100+km Range PAS TESTED! • New Heavy Duty 350W motor & gears. UNIQUE EBO SUPERTUNED, FOR SMOOTHER TORQUE POWER EGBROAUVENLITQRUAEILTCOAUPRAINBGLE&, SCAN THE QR CODE TO ORDER ONLINE TOTALLY VERSATILE Look for it in good magazine outlets $9.95 RRP, or order your (NATIONAL SERVICES CAPE REINGA TO BLUFF) copy today to be posted to your home for just $10.00 Call Alan: 021 980 511 anytime or email: [email protected] www.ebobikes.co.nz 18 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

If I thought Momorangi Bay was semicircular then 3 1. Time to log a ride then Ngakuta is almost a fully enclosed cove; a sheltered spot for a scattering of boats that are moored just 4 take a break (credit Link offshore. Then … surprise! At the bay the trail Pathway Trust) suddenly peters out onto the golden sands and terminal. Picton is just around the corner. I can see the pathway for a hundred metres or so is just the a Cook Strait ferry coming into port. My bike is 2. Enjoying the elevated beach, a delightful experience. I hug the shoreline picking up the pace and it’s hard to guess who will by the incoming tide, my tread pattern wobbling dock first. I fly down the last metres of the pathway views from the pathway over left for the tide to consume. I love the raw sense of and hit the asphalt, taking care to avoid traffic waiting the Marlborough Sounds nature I feel as I leave the formed trail and mingle to float to Wellington. I reach the promenade and (credit Link Pathway Trust) with the grit. It’s even more invigorating when the glance across to see the ship already shifting cargo – it sand gets too soft to ride and I remove my shoes seems there is no mucking around for these moving 3. The golden sands of the to leave both foot and tyre prints behind. There is bridges of the strait. something primeval about this simple act and I path on the beach celebrate it – it is now part of my rich journey. If the After my adventure, I take the opportunity to promotional video film crew was present I think I meet up with the trail manager in Havelock, back at 4. Climbing high above the would have been captured at this moment, just for the opposite end of the pathway. Seated outside at a a split second – no lush flowing-haired handsome waterfront café I look to the horizon to see another Queen Charlotte Sound model, just a middle-aged biker, but so alive in the stretch of the pathway’s bridle track descending moment. As I move off the beach I enjoy the green to the fishing village. Linking cycle trails between Special Edition 2019 19 space of the bay’s coastal reserves and boardwalks communities is the Link Pathway Trust’s vision before I head inland to encounter a steep and grunty and they are quickly achieving that goal. From our climb. Fortunately, the grade eases quickly when discussions, it seems they have ambitious dreams. I reach the benched face of a 150-year-old bridle In the future, they hope to link Blenheim, Pelorus track. The Link Pathway uses this old pack track on much of its course. During the construction of the pathway, many trail-building relics and dry-stone walls were discovered which all add value to the ride. The bridle trail that gently traverses the hillside now forms the backbone of this new linking path. A long yet gentle climb lifts me to the trail’s high point which gives me some relief as it’s mostly downhill to Picton from here. A few miles beyond the top I reach a small side trail on a hairpin corner, and I am intrigued enough that I follow this rough track, whatever it might hold. A short walk leads me to some ruins covered in scrub. I later learn that this was the Wedge Point WW2 signal station that was recently rediscovered by trail designers. There were once several blocks of offices, barracks and telecommunication buildings – most were removed after the war and what remains of the complex was reclaimed by forest. I soon come across the concrete foundation of the signal station, like an Incan temple hidden for ages. Maybe I have watched too many Indiana Jones movies? These ‘Incan temples’ seem to be all through the New Zealand I inhabit. The station was once a wartime outpost ready to identify and report ships as they navigated these sheltered waters; today the station has lost its views to the trees and appears forgotten in time. From an elevated spot on a now overcast day my mind fails to picture how the station looked back in its heyday, as it’s no longer a barren ridgeline lookout. The trees are on the march. I return to the main trail with more unanswered questions, but I feel at ease with a touch of enlightenment. The pathway plunges downhill, lined with umbrella- like ponga fronds offering shelter from the pre-frontal drizzle. I keep my eyes on the freshly laid yet slick trail, but eventually I look up to see orderly timber stacks awaiting export at the Shakespeare Bay port

Marlborough Link Pathway Trail update The trail is making steady progress with joining up the Linkwater flats to the already completed Havelock trail section. The trail connection is expected to be complete by the end of this summer. Once the trail is connected the trail trust will construct the Havelock foreshore extension path and boardwalks into town. The next stage once the trail has reached Havelock is planning for the extension of the Link Pathway to Pelorus Bridge. 5 Trail, all without ever being on the main road! I can’t wait to ride the remaining (still incomplete) path and to join the Trust at the joint Bridge and Nelson. With most of the trail between Picton/Havelock/ celebrations of the anniversary of Cook’s arrival and the completion Anakiwa built, they are on track to reach their target completion date of of the Link Pathway in 2020. This is a clear vision that I think will set the January 15, 2020 to coincide with the 250th anniversary of Captain off a cycling chain reaction of visitors flocking to a linking pathway Cook arriving in the Marlborough Sounds. that connects the top of the South. Take action! Be part of the pathway, cast yourself in the role … I know I did! With the high quality of trail they are building, the scenic beauty of the landscape it passes through and the rich history of the pathway, This story featured in NZToday issue 85. hitting their target date will be an outstanding achievement. Once the word gets out to both hikers and bikers I can see many visitors extending 6 their trip on the Queen Charlotte Track. Imagine leaving Picton by boat to reach the start of the Queen Charlotte Track at Ship Cove, the outer extremity of the Sound, and returning some days later entirely by walking or wheeling, on a grand circuit. Even better, finish the track and ride to Nelson on a cycle trail before cycling Tasman’s Great Taste 5. Quaint boatsheds of The Grove 6. Evening light on the Sounds Statistics 42km Easy to Intermediate Trail (Grade 2–3) Official Links: facebook.com/The-Link-Pathway-365588383523911 Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 20 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle



Marlborough Wither Hills, Riverlands WAIRAU LAGOONS WALKWAY Marlborough’s Wairau Lagoons Walkway provides a delightful insight into the habitat the lagoons create and the birdlife they sustain. The walk is virtually flat so it’s ideal for kids and the not-so-agile Story + Photos Matt Winter 22 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Royal spoonbills in breeding plumage on the oxidation pond island Special Edition 2019 23

Marlborough Wither Hills, Riverlands 1 T he Wairau Lagoons cover an area of very colourful and odd-looking waders are 2400 hectares of wetland and salt rare vagrant visitors from Australia. The first marshes, on the Pacific coast just to individual turned up a few years ago followed by the east of Blenheim. a couple of birds a few seasons later. Two years The lagoons formed over thousands of years ago, three fledgling ibis were observed on the behind an eight kilometre-long boulder bank island, making it the first site in New Zealand created from gravel and stones washed up the where glossy ibis have successfully bred. coast by sea currents. Water from the surrounding hills gathers behind the boulder bank and Royal spoonbills gather at this site too and combines with the tide coming in and out, to also breed on the island. There can be anywhere create perfect living conditions for plants and from a handful of these large, very elegant white animals between the high and low water marks. birds to a couple of dozen at any one time. Other The resulting birdlife in the area is prolific, with birds that frequent the island are swans, mallard around 90 species being recorded, making it a and grey duck, grey teal, paradise duck, black- fantastic place to see a large variety of endemic, backed gulls, red-billed gulls, New Zealand native and introduced birds. scaup, shoveler duck and Canada geese. From archaeological sites on the boulder bank, the area is recognised as the earliest-known site Back on the main track, continue along it for of human occupation in New Zealand. Because 350 metres to an intersection: from here you can of the abundance of bird and fish life, early Māori choose to go left or right, both options will bring were drawn there to hunt for food – many of you back to that same point. The right-hand path the lagoon’s channels were physically made or skirts along the shoreline of the upper lagoon extended to help trap moulting birds or eels. The 2 and past Budges and Moerepo Islands, to the lagoons’ main channel. Along the way are several White Bluffs at the southern end of the lagoons smaller channels and shallow ponds close to the dominate the view to the south, and were known historically as the track that are worth ‘poking your nose into’ for dividing line between Ngāi Tahu and tribes to the north. a chance to see other bird species such as pied stilts. Once alongside the main channel, keep your eye out for several THE WALK species of shags resting on the many driftwood logs, along with gulls The Wairau lagoons walkway carpark is situated at the very end of feeding out on the mud flats. On several occasions at this part of the Hardings Road, which leaves SH1, five kilometres south of central walk, I’ve seen bar-tailed godwits, the tiny wrybill (the only bird in Blenheim. A Department of Conservation sign just inside the swinging the world with a laterally-curved bill), pied stilts, black-fronted terns gate entrance lets you know that the walk will take approximately three and white-faced heron. hours to complete along the loop-style track. But it’s not a hard three An hour and 45 minutes from the signposted intersection sees you hours because the track is completely flat all the way, and my GPS track at the rusting hulk of the SS Waverley, built in 1883 primarily as a log informed me it’s 7.8km long. cargo ship but which could also cater for 42 passengers. In 1928, after 45 years of service, she was towed from Wellington by the SS Wairau Initially the track takes you along a couple of hundred metres of to the mouth of the Wairau River, where she was to be sunk to form a gravelled path. At the end of this path, just before it pops over a stopbank, breakwater. However, before the actual scuttling took place, she was there’s a short well-worn track to the right that takes you over a wire swept up the channel in a flood to where she now lies. Interestingly, fence and up onto another small bank. From on top, you’ll be looking the NZ Army used her for target practice. over the oxidation ponds, including an island out in the middle. This On the bank right alongside Waverley is a picnic table which provides island is a popular and safe haven for quite a few species of birds that an ideal stopping point for a bite to eat with grand views of Mt Robertson use the spot for resting, loafing and breeding. and other lower lying hills around Port Underwood to the north. After a restful bite to eat and perhaps a drink of tea from your If you’re lucky, you might get to see one or several glossy ibis. These 24 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

3 1. The first boardwalk near the Wairau Lagoons Walkway at a Glance Thermos, the circuit track swings back towards the south and will start of the track eventually take you to the intersection where you veered off a couple of There’s a carpark situated at the hours earlier. According to the DOC sign, this section of the walk takes 2. The tiny wrybill - only bird in the end of Hardings Road that leaves an hour-and-a-quarter, although in reality it’s a tad quicker than that. SH1, 5km south of Blenheim. world with a laterally curved bill Grade: flat, easy. Being slightly inland, there’s not a lot to see on this last section. The Time: 3 hours return. path winds its way through lengthy grassy sections, over a few small 3. View from the Waverley picnic Distance: 7.8km boardwalk bridges, through low salt marsh plants and briefly alongside Birdlife to see a channel of water. table looking north to Mt Robertson glossy ibis, wrybill, bar tailed godwit, royal spoonbill, banded For this reason I’d suggest taking the left option at the earlier 4. A rare vagrant visitor to our dotterel, black fronted terns, intersection, which kind of avoids a not-so-exciting last hour. fernbird, white heron, white- shores from Australia - a glossy ibis faced heron, kingfisher, pied stilt, If you’re in Marlborough and have a spare half-day, this walk is grey teal, NZ scaup, harrier hawk, essentially an easy stroll over flat ground, and an ideal opportunity for canada goose, among many some exercise and fresh air. The bird life in the area is diverse and quite other common varieties. abundant, with the added bonus of the chance of seeing a few rare and very interesting species. Tips • A bird book and pair of This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 64. binoculars would be useful additions to your equipment. • There’s no fresh water so carry some with you, particularly on the hot, dry days that characterise Marlborough’s summer. • A lack of shade trees means the walk is very exposed to sun, wind and rain. • O pen fires aren’t permitted and only portable stoves should be used for cooking. • T he ground underfoot can be damp after rain so be prepared for the possibility of wet feet 4 Special Edition 2019 25

Tasman Coppermine Trail 1 Dun in a Day Geology lessons while tackling the Coppermine Trail that loops around Dun Mountain Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited 2 26 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

3 4 1. The open tops are worth the climb 2. The open tops are worth the climb Dun in a day? Well, this is a welcome change trail formation is on NZ’s first railway line, built in 3. Windy Point is aptly named from the multi-day mountain-bike rides 1862. Horse-drawn empty wagons were pulled up 4. There are some amazing ground- I had undertaken to collect data for the the mountain to the mineral belt above, which is cover plant communities Great Rides App. Not only is it a day trip; where I am heading. In some places my tyres bobble 5. Squeezing through the railway cutting the Coppermine Trail is a glorious loop! Few of the over a railway sleeper or two – the last remnants of 22 NZ Great Rides are single-day cycling trips and the 20,000 timbers that once supported the now- most of the trails are either lineal or network layouts. disappeared iron tracks. So, after arriving in Nelson, I was really looking forward to the simplicity of riding the only Great The former railway line unlocked mineral resources Ride that is both a loop and day trip. on the mountain top. As I swing around a corner I find myself running parallel with a modern, flash- Simplicity though, does not mean easy-peasy. looking fence line that locks out predators. This is While it is simple to pedal out of central Nelson, the tall boundary fence of the Brook Waimarama the 17-kilometre hillclimb rising 900 vertical metres Sanctuary, a community-based initiative that creates above Tasman Bay is a challenge that will keep me a pest-free wildlife reserve near the heart of Nelson. busy for the next few hours. My climb is made easier At times the trail runs right beside the 14-kilometre with heritage seemingly pulling me up the benched predator-proof fence that protects all sort of native track, much like wagons were drawn up by horses wildlife. I enjoy peering into the sanctuary as I climb that once worked this line. I say ‘line’ because the through the forest high above the city. The forest here 5 Special Edition 2019 27

Tasman Coppermine Trail 67 is dense, lush and massive, giving the trail a real sense of remoteness my left I can see a faint line in the hillside that once led to the mining despite being on the fringe of the town belt. The trail explores the dark area, and to my right is Dun Mountain (1129m) cloaked in a veil of recesses of the hillside where I ford small creeks before continuing up, cloud. Dun Mountain was named by early residents as a result of the up, up into the clouds. hillside’s ‘dunn’ colour – an Old English term for dingy brown. In 1859 German–Austrian geologist Ferdinand von Hochstetter was employed I pass a few historic points, including the sites of former railway by the government to map the geology of our country. He discovered houses now reclaimed by the forest, before reaching an aptly named that Dun Mountain was made up of dense igneous rock of olivine and Windy Point. Crikey! Make sure your helmet is strapped on tight chromite which he called dunite – a name now applied to all rocks of here, folks. This is where the trail breaks out of the forest and I am this type around the world. His discoveries and mapping resulted in exposed to the full power of the natural elements of both geology and von Hochstetter becoming known as the father of NZ geology. Today meteorology. The elevated view stretches out west over Tasman Bay. he has a mountain, an endemic frog, snails and takahē named after him. No longer protected by the forest, my body sways in the gale as the Interestingly, quite recently the mining of dunite to spread over land to wind forces its way through the bend at Windy Point. Geology bares advance its weathering, has been considered as a potential method of its pale orange face too, as I have reached the Dun Mountain Ophiolite capturing some of the growing global carbon dioxide levels in our air. Belt. Ophiolite (‘Ophio’ is Greek for snake, while ‘lite’ means rock) is formed deep in the earth’s mantle and has slithered its way to the The former railway terminated at the saddle where I stand. Remarkably surface via powerful tectonic forces. The same mineral belt sequence the line was built in one year by 200 men yielding picks and shovels … is found in Fiordland 700 kilometres south – the Nelson region having yet closed only four years later when the chromite was exhausted. been displaced that far northward over geological time by the carving The word chromite is taken from Greek ‘chroma’ meaning colour, and nature of the Alpine Fault shearing the earth apart. The land up here at the time chromite was used for dye pigments; today we know it as the is almost devoid of vegetation, the iron and magnesium in the rock source for the thin shiny metallic coating on machinery called chrome making the soils poisonous for most plant communities. The landscape plating. Turning to look back down the gradients I had just climbed, makes interesting riding, offering a low-altitude sub-alpine experience it would have made a thrilling gravity-powered ride for the brakemen as I ride towards Coppermine Saddle. on the descending ore-filled wagons. It took two-and-a-quarter hours to ride the wagons to Nelson – brakemen taking a shorter time could I enjoy the openness of the trail that winds along rocky faces towards be dismissed. It is interesting to note that the trail has seen bike riders the saddle. Upon reaching the high point I get off my own saddle to on its surface longer than it saw the ride of ore-filled wagons for which appreciate this north-facing viewing window. Straight ahead I peer it was constructed. At least the line’s legacy continues. down into the Maitai Valley where I can see the bike trail descend; to 8 9 28 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Not keen on staying a moment longer with the air at the saddle Trail update starting to cool, I hop back on my bike and drop into the Maitai Valley. This section of trail is a grade harder than what I have experienced The trail is now known as the Coppermine Trail. The on the climb. I love the tight, twisty and technical descent. What an trail trust has had work done to secure a large slip site, amazing job the trail builders have done over the years to create this overseeing an upgrade to improve the surface and also cycle trail. Fabulous! While the former railway line provided a relatively planning to make the descent from Coppermine Saddle good benched track to Coppermine Saddle (with a number of hike- into the Maitai Valley somewhat easier than in the past. a-bike spots on the open tops) it was not until early 2000 that pioneer mountain bikers started weekend works to cut a rough track down off units, save the data and note that the loop took me several hours. the tops into the Maitai Valley. Their efforts were later supported by As I rest at the trailhead and I scroll through my trip photos, I reflect local bike clubs and Council who upgraded the track significantly to on the memories I had just collected on this trail. make it fully rideable. In 2011, the trail opened as the third Great Ride of the NZ Cycle Trail. The Coppermine Trail is a complete day ride. Normally ridden in the direction I travelled, the anticlockwise loop has a gentler climb on The descent is thrilling. It does not take long to reach the bushline the track of the former railway line. I enjoyed starting near the coast, where the trail starts to straighten up, and where my bike seems to have leaving the city for the wild, and climbing the benched track of the a life of its own picking up pace and jostling me in the saddle like riding former railway line that is steeped in history to reach the sub-alpine an unbroken horse. The trees become a blur as I crank up a gear to enter tops, before the descent to complete the loop. While an advanced grade cycling hyper-drive; my eyes start to water. These are tears of joy! I pass trail, this has to be one of the easier rides in the country to go from sea a junction to a limestone cave. Had I detoured I may have seen one of level to the sub-alpine tops and is now my favourite day ride. What the rarest miniature snails (1.7mm by 1.2mm) in the world, endemic Dun had done for me is to leave a permanent grin on my face to carry to only one small pond in the cave. However, my steed has other plans; me though my multi-day rides ahead. In my view, Dun equals fun and I continue to hang on tight and frantically freewheel to the valley floor I will return to enjoy Dun in a day! on one of NZ’s longest mountain-bike descents. It’s good fun. This story featured in NZToday issue 86. Then, suddenly, the gradient eases as I reach the Maitai River and follow its flowing course downstream to the Maitai Dam. Once I pass 6. The predator-proof fencing of the Brook Waimarama Sanctuary the dam that provides the city’s water supply, urbanity starts to assemble 7. Dun Mountain (1129m) cloaked in cloud with the occasional dwelling appearing in this scenic forested valley. 8. Riding into the clouds I pass a sign to Tantragee Saddle, a shortcut on the loop, but I continue 9. One of the well-built bridges on the descent on, enjoying the trail beside the sweeping river bends. From here the ride is gentle, and I cycle carefree into Nelson past swimming holes before turning a bend to complete the ride. I stop to check my GPS Statistics 43km Advanced Trail Intermediate/Advanced (Grade 3-4) Official Links: www.heartofbiking.org.nz/coppermine-trail Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores Special Edition 2019 29

Tasman Golden Bay - Labyrinth Rocks Park A CAVE, A WATERFALL AND A LABYRINTH Golden Bay is probably best known for its golden sand beaches and Abel Tasman National Park. While the park possesses some of the country’s most beautiful and picturesque coastline walks, there are other less- publicised short walks that offer very interesting and unique insights into the bay’s geology and geography. There is also a fantastic ‘rock labyrinth’ that the kids will have a whole lot of fun exploring. Story + Photos Matt Winter 30 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

1 Rawhiti Cave 2 From Takaka, drive along Abel Tasman Drive for 4.5km. There is a neat story behind how Turn right onto Glenview Road for 400 metres, then left the Labyrinth Rocks Park became onto Packard Road. Continue for 2.5km. Track to carpark what it is today. Many years ago signposted on left just before bridge. the late Dave Whittaker, a former Grade: Easy Time: 1–1.5 hours return Distance: 3km geologist and mining engineer, realised the Birdlife to see: weka, fantail, grey warbler, bellbird, tūī, uniqueness of the area and leased the land tomtit, wood pigeon off the local council. With a lot of hard work Tips: and dedication, he opened up the dozens Keep your eye out for wild goats of passageways creating an attraction for Footwear with a good tread if walking after rain locals and tourists alike. Due to ill health, Experiment with different angles and perspectives when Mr Whittaker was eventually no longer able photographing the cave, for good even exposures to maintain the 2ha of park and it had to be closed down. He always had a dream that someone else would carry on the work, and the local community soon came forward to form what is now called ‘Friends of the Labyrinth’. This group of volunteers is continuing on with Dave’s dream. With assistance from local businesses as well as financial support from the council, the labyrinth can be cleaned of encroaching weeds, trails are maintained and drains cleared while, most importantly, the park is kept open for everyone to enjoy. The Labyrinth Rocks Park is situated just 3.3km from Takaka on the road to Pohara beach. As the name suggests, this superb little walk features a maze of fascinating paths and trails that twist and turn through a series of natural limestone rock corridors. Lush native bush, nikau palms and ferns grow around the paths and rock formations that help in creating an otherworldly atmosphere. The 3km of pathways within the park can be explored thoroughly in about an hour with the aid of a map of the trails that can be picked up at the entrance. 3 Special Edition 2019 31

Tasman Golden Bay - Labyrinth Rocks Park 45 But don’t worry if you don’t have a map – there is no real risk of getting lost. This wee walk is definitely one for the kids! I’m not sure whether it was Mr Labyrinth Rocks Park Whittaker that initiated the practice or just an accumulation left by visitors over From Takaka, head north on Abel Tasman Drive for 2.5km. time, but the nooks, crannies, crevices, cracks, recesses and shelves throughout Turn onto Scott Road. Labyrinth entrance 700 metres. the labyrinth contain dozens and dozens of small figurines which surprise and Grade: Easy Time: 1 hour return delight children at every turn – heck, I’m an adult and even I loved searching Distance: 3km of labyrinth trails within 2ha for the hidden surprises around each corner. Most figurines are only a couple of Tips Grab a map of the labyrinth trails at the entrance kiosk. inches in size and range from tiny plastic animals and toys to dangling ‘things’ in Make a game of it for the kids by having them search for the branches of trees. dozens of hidden figurines. Keyna & Tanzania . Madagascar . Namibia . Fiji Colombia . Kyrgyzstan . Cambodia . China & Tibet ,Golden Bay www.escapeadventuresnz.com Ph: 03 545 1789 32 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

6 1. There is a wooden viewing RAWHITI CAVE platform situated in the heart of A leisurely half-hour walk up an easy stream-side bush track followed the cave directly below hundreds of stalactites hanging from the roof by a steep (but relatively easy) climb, culminates in a spectacular ‘phytokarst’ cave. Phytokast is a natural process in which plants and 2. Entrance to the Labyrinth Rocks calcium work together to form stalactites and stalagmites. The stalactites at the entrance to Rawhiti cave are covered with mosses and algae that Park are constantly having calcium carbonate deposited on them, with the plants slowly being incorporated into the stalactites. As plants respond 3. One of the many interconnecting to light, the mosses and algae grow faster on the sunny side which in turn makes the stalactites grow out towards the cave entrance. The paths of the Labyrinth significant thing about this particular cave is the sheer number of stalactites, not seen in most other caves. 4. Just a few examples of the hidden The Rawhiti cave walk is another of Golden Bay’s little-publicised short ‘treasures’ found within the labyrinth walks, and like the labyrinth it is very handy to the Takaka township. A 9km drive along Abel Tasman Drive and Packard Road brings you 5. Stalactites on the roof of Rawhiti cave 6. The grand old billy goat I photographed on the way to Rawhiti cave 7. Stream-side bush track leading to Rawhiti cave to a spacious carpark accessed through a private farm. (Ensure any gates are shut behind you.) The well-marked and -maintained track enters the very steep-sided Dry River valley and meanders alongside bush river terraces. Being a keen wildlife photographer and hunter, I am always on the lookout for wild animals so I was stoked to see a group of wild goats not far off the trail. A quick but stealthy stalk with my camera netted some great photos of the large billy and his harem of nannies and juveniles. Hoof prints and other signs along the track suggested there is a healthy population in the valley, so keep your eye out. After half an hour of very easy travel, the track suddenly veers right and begins a steep and constant climb for another 30 minutes. Although steep, the track is well built with plenty of good foot and hand holds. A wee word of caution however – the under-foot conditions can become slippery immediately after rain but do dry out reasonably quickly. As suddenly as it begins, the steep climb abruptly levels off 50 metres before the main objective of the trip – Rawhiti cave. On my first trip to the cave I was quite taken aback by how impressive it was ‘in the flesh’, so to speak. On my second trip I was no less in awe. It really is remarkable what nature can achieve. There is a stepped pathway leading down into the cave entrance and a solid wooden (hand railed) viewing platform situated in the heart of the cave. It has been positioned directly below hundreds of stalactites hanging from the roof – quite an eerie feeling but also quite safe. (See opening image.) There are several information boards at the cave telling the geological and human history of the cave. (Back in the early 1900s, the Baird family, who owned the cave at the time, operated guided cave tours.) Photographing the cave can be challenging due to the contrasting light conditions. Try many different angles and perspectives to get the most even lighting across your image, thus avoiding nasty bright white areas and/or dark areas with no detail. WAINUI FALLS To reach Wainui Falls entails a slightly longer drive from Takaka. However, don’t let this put you off, as the 20km drive is worth doing in itself. The stunning Pohara, Tata and Ligar Bay beaches are all there to be enjoyed along the way. Once over the hill and into Wainui Bay proper, the turn off to the start of the track is on the right and 700 metres before the road starts climbing over to Totaranui – if you reach the gravel, you have gone too far. Keep your eye out for the ‘Wainui 7 Falls’ signpost. Special Edition 2019 33

Tasman Golden Bay - Labyrinth Rocks Park Wainui Falls From Takaka, follow Abel Tasman Drive for 20km. Turn right onto short gravel laneway to reach carpark. (Turn off here is 700 metres before Abel Tasman Drive turns to gravel.) Grade: Easy Time: 1.5 hours return Distance: 3.4km Birdlife to see weka, pīwakawaka (fantail), riroriro (grey warbler), korimako (bellbird), tūī, miromiro (tomtit), kererū (wood pigeon), wading birds such as poaka (pied stilt),tōrea (oystercatcher), kōtuku (heron) and tara teoteo (tern) on the Wainui Bay tidal estuary Tips • T ake a light rain jacket for waterfall spray • T ry some long exposures of 1–2 seconds to create a ‘silky’ effect of water • B e careful on the rocks around the falls – they are very slippery. 8 From the carpark (with a toilet) the track follows a farm laneway for a short distance then veers right and enters the bush alongside the bank toll free of the Wainui river. It meanders in and out of the native bush offering a variety of views of the river and surrounding lush native bush. About 0800 808 257 halfway up to the falls, the track goes through a beautiful glade of nikau palms while elsewhere there are some spectacular examples of very large email:[email protected] old rimu trees beside the track. Many of these ancient giants have other plants such as kiekie and rata growing on and around them. www.farewellspit.co.nz About 1.3km from the start, the track comes to a bridge across the 34 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle main Wainui river. It is a suspension-type bridge which was built in 2015, replacing the old cable and wire swing bridge. The old swing bridge was a ‘one at a time’ affair that used to cause delaying bottlenecks in the peak summer tourist season. The new suspension model can take up to 10 people at a time and is very well built. Looking downstream from the bridge reveals huge piles of logs and debris stacked against the large granite boulders in the river bed, all brought down from previous floods. It is quite sobering thinking about the power of nature and the resulting forces involved to move that amount of material. Once over the bridge you should be able to hear the roar of the falls themselves, although, remarkably, you are still a couple of hundred metres away. The track sidles alongside the river, across a solid wooden boardwalk that negotiates a tricky rock section, then in no time at all the falls come into view. The falls are 20 metres in height falling as one main flow into a large and deep pool. Depending on wind direction and the amount of water in the river, a fair amount of fine spray wafts around. A bit like a fine rain drizzle, it is fine enough to not be a bother but unknowingly, it gets you wet. I would suggest throwing a light rain jacket in your day pack even on sunny days. All spectacular waterfalls are worth photographing and this one is no exception. However, due to the nature of the surrounding area, where the track is, and the sometimes far-reaching spray, this can be a challenge. It is difficult to get an unobstructed shot of the whole falls from the end of the track and viewing area, but you can get down into the riverbed below and shoot up to it. This also enables you to get some cool foreground features such as rocks and logs in the frame. (Just a mention here of the very slippery rocks which can trip you up very easily.) If you have a tripod (or put your camera on a rock) try some long exposures of one to a few seconds to create that lovely silky effect of the falling water. This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 71. 8. View looking upstream to the Wainui Falls track suspension bridge 9. Wainui Falls

9 We’re the specialists in self-guided cycling trips on the A MIDDLE EARTH EXPERIENCE Great Taste Trail. Visit our website today. Main road, Takaka Hill, SH 60, Motueka (towards Golden Bay) Golden Bay Museum www.gentlecycling.co.nz Freephone: 0800 932 453 ph: +64 3 528 8093 | email: [email protected] Te Waka Huia o Mohua www.ngaruacaves.co.nz Special Edition 2019 35 During your visit get acquainted with the fascinating story of Golden Bay Mohua, or research your family history with assistance from staff. 73 Commercial Street, Takaka | Admission by donation Open Monday to Saturday 10am-4pm | Closed Sunday and public holidays 03 525 6268 | [email protected] | goldenbaymuseum.org.nz

Canterbury Hanmer Springs BIG SKY COUNTRY Justine Tyerman gets giddy in the St James Conservation Area … Story + Photos Justine Tyerman 1 36 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

2 In our early 60s, in that heady zone between children and grandchildren, we’ve lately developed irresponsible nomadic 3 tendencies that worry our adult daughters. It’s a classic case of role reversal – we get texts from Sophie 1. Justine on the St James Cycle Trail with a massive scree slope and Bridget urging us to be careful and report in at the end of the in the background 2. A signpost on the way to Hanmer Springs day. They are working hard on their careers in Sydney and London; 3. Justine e-biking in the Hanmer Forest 4. The Waiau River we are working hard on leisure in ‘God’s own’ … bridge south of Hanmer Springs. Photo: Hurunui Tourism Chris and I love nothing better than to wander around the countryside in a comfy self-contained motorhome with a couple of e-bikes on the back, going wherever the spirit wills and the weather looks most settled during this Clayton’s kind of summer. With no fixed itinerary or agenda, the only focus of the day is to find a picturesque place to park overnight and a scenic biking trail that, for the first time in my life thanks to the wonderful invention of the e-bike, can include hills. It’s not hard to meet all those criteria in Aotearoa. On our most recent escapade, we picked up a JUCY motorhome and two Kiwi-designed SmartMotion e-bikes in Christchurch and set off for Hanmer Springs with a couple of mates who had driven all the way from Gisborne, towing a flash Australian camper trailer with their e-bikes on the top. As Dave and Libby drove out the gate, their adult sons evidently shook their heads in disbelief muttering something about a ‘late-life crisis on wheels!’ At first the prospect of biking with experts terrified me, but thanks to our zippy machines with their five-level power function and handy throttle when an extra boost was required, I was never far behind. It made me feel so good to be part of the A team rather than being the solo member of team Z, the one lagging miles behind who always kept others waiting. To begin with, we explored a myriad of shady forest trails close to the Hanmer Springs township, ranging from easy to expert, which kept our crew of mixed-ability riders more than happy. Special Edition 2019 37

Canterbury Hanmer Springs 4 RE-CHARGE YOURSELF & YOUR Scan Me BIKE AT HANMER SPRINGS! AWARD WINNING ACCOMMODATION Luxury in the heart of the Village and the perfect base to PURCHASE YOUR SPECIAL explore Hanmer Springs wonderful network of tracks STAY & EXPLORE PACKAGE @ www.thestjames.co.nz/specials Quote room code NZT19 when booking. 20 Chisholm Crescent, Hanmer Springs, New Zealand | Freephone 0508 7852637 email: [email protected] | www.thestjames.co.nz | thestjames.co.nz 38 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

5 When Chris and Dave wanted to do daring things, insisted we go with them the next day to cycle a 5. Chris and his SmartMotion they went further afield to check out a section of less terrifying version of their ride. Our circuit the 64km St James Cycle Trail, from the homestead from the St James homestead, up the beautiful e-bike in Peter’s Valley to Scotties Hut and Charlies Saddle, while we Clarence River Valley to Peters Pass, and back via took it easy browsing the shops and cafés. Having Peters Valley, was stunning. And they were right 6. The St James Cycle Trail takes worked up a moderate appetite after a morning of about the landscape. My head was on a constant pedalling, Libby and I made short work of a tasty swivel and my eyes strained to take in the massive riders through a magnificent smashed avocado, feta and bacon on ciabatta at scope of the terrain with its 360-degree panoramas, The Roasted Bean café. unlimited vistas that stretched to far horizons, and landscape of mountains, lakes and scree slopes encompassing whole mountain sides. The men came back raving about the spectacular Big sky country. rivers. Photo: Hurunui Tourism landscape of the St James Conservation Area and 7-8. Stone chimneys are all that remain of an old homestead 6 Special Edition 2019 39

Helmetphone BH51M Neo Canterbury Hanmer Springs In contrast to Central Otago where the mountains enclose and tower over you, the St James gave me a giddy sense of space and freedom from boundaries that made me feel like I might float away. Not a good place for agoraphobics, I decided! We met a ‘real McCoy’ mountain biker who was CseytVctileenrTgyroaimfilf iptnoraernsisdaifevteetrh,neIooethnnotwiuriegthhlomto…upscoblfeu-tpthoeIwScetoruJaallmodnneFe’st.irstFSirmstarStm&aSrta&feSCayfceTliChnyegcWTHlihneoelgrmlWHde’eostlrmlde’st understand his desire to rush such a beautiful experience. One day – when I’ve mastered the SmSmaratrUt rUbrabnanHeHlemlmetettechnicalaspects–I’dlovetoridethewholetrail,but to do justice to the landscape I would tarry awhile, ssteanyHsiensgteaimtHltehmteoeDaOblesmCotrhbputeths ihestnwporoonuhndteroaoeunsdnpallaBleocew.HingB5mHy17M5 1NMeNo e o Jacks Pass–Jollies Pass is another iconic ride. Accessible from the township, the hardest part of the 25km ride is the sustained hill climb up Jacks Pass, but a breeze on an e-bike. Our muscles did not have too much to complain about afterwards but we soaked them in the famous Hanmer hot springs anyway. The thermal waters have been attracting visitors for over 125 years and the modern complex boasts 15 open-air thermal pools of varying temperatures set among landscaped gardens with picnic areas, a spa and licensed café. Biking is a substantial income-earner for the district. Hurunui Tourism marketing manager Shane Adcock says 41 per cent of visitors to Hanmer Springs undertake some sort of mountain biking activity. “Based on estimates of visitors to Hanmer Springs, the number of visits from bikers annually is around 270,600,” says Shane. 8 The WThoerlWd’osrld’s First Smart & Safe Cyc FirstFSirmsat rStm&aSrta&feSCayfceliCnygcHlienlgmHeetlmet SmSmaratrUt rUbrabnanHeHlemlmetet Smart Urban HelmetHeHlmelemtpehtpohnoenBeHB5H1M51NMeNoeo Hands-Free Smart HeFall lmetpPresshone BH51M Neo Operations Lighting Detection For SOS Hands-HFraeneds-Free Smart Smart Fall Fall Press Press OperatOiopnesrations LightinLgighting DetectiDoentection For SOSFor SOS Front Brake One-Click PTT Voice LED Light Warning Lights Answer Walkie-Talkie Navigation Front Front Brake Brake One-ClicOkne-Click PTT PTT Voice Voice LED LighLtED LighWtarningWLaigrnhitnsg LightsAnswer AnswerWalkie-TWaalklkieie-TalkNieavigatNioanvigation ply to Bicycle, E-bike, E-scooter, Skateboard, Roller Skating, Hoverboard etc. Apply tAopBpilcyytcoleB, iEc-ybcilkee,,EE-b-sickoeo, Ete-sr,cSokoateter,bSokaartde,bRooallredr, SRkoallteinr gS,kHatoivnegr,bHooavredrebtoca. rd etc. wwwww.wli.vlwivaawllwll..c.cloiovmamll.com sanchist@asnlaicvhaniltlc.@[email protected] The World’s First Smart & Safe Cycling Helmet Smart Urban Helmet40 BestofSouthIslandWalk&Cycle

9 “The Hurunui District is fortunate to have a number of excellent “Any trip to Hanmer should include the iconic thermal pools biking tracks for all levels of ability,” he says. and spa. There are also excellent outdoor adventures on the Waiau River (jet boating and rafting) and on the land (quad biking and “Hanmer Springs has over 50km of tracks that run throughout the horse trekking). heritage forest and logging forests. These are easily accessible from the village. North of Hanmer Springs, the St James Conservation Area “In addition, the Waipara Valley has a number of award-winning provides a long and challenging ride for experienced riders – the reward wineries, many of which have cellar doors. A great way to explore being a magical high-country experience with spectacular scenery.” them is by pedal-power on the Hurunui Vineyard Bike Trail.” But there are myriad other attractions and activities as well. This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 65. 9. The scenery on the St James Cycle Trail is spectacular. Photo: Hurunui Tourism 10. A visit to Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa after a 10 long day in the saddle is bliss. Photo: Hurunui Tourism Special Edition 2019 41

Mackenzie Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail A Great Ride Finding Fabulous Gary revisits the trail where he once got lost – a misadventure that inspired him to come up with his Great Rides app Story + Photos Gary Patterson 42 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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Mackenzie Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail Is it possible for a cartographer to get lost? Well, this was the predicament I found myself in four years ago on a disused part 2 of the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail with a small group of friends. I’d say I was more disoriented than lost but this point would 1. Riding along Lake Pūkākī is fabulous be vigorously debated by my bruised-bummed friends. You see at 2. This trail literally is Alps 2 Ocean Twizel I had decided that we should deviate from the official trail for the more remote access route to the hydroelectric storage lakes. As it Cycle Trail! turned out, this was a mistake, for as we headed further away from the comfort of the official trail we encountered water-filled potholes 3. Crossing Pūkākī Flats in the open that could have been mistaken for the nearby reservoirs, and round, fist-sized boulders that played havoc with our tyres. Our distance surrounds of the Mackenzie Basin from the main trail grew longer and longer in inverse proportion to my wife’s patience which was very, very short. I was off-track in so 4. Riding the canals is magic on a many ways. The last climb over a moraine wall and back down to the main trail at Lake Ōhau was a relief and I vowed never to repeat the calm day experience. That evening, over a comforting meal to soothe body and mind, I came up with a solution to the day’s mishap: I could use my trail mapping skills to build a free mobile app to help those on the NZ Cycle Trails make happier decisions. This was the birthing moment of the Great Rides App. Less than a year later our group returns, ready to right the wrongs of the past. This is the first ride to capture data for the Great Rides App, and at this point it feels more like a full-time adventure than a business venture. We look at the paper maps and can see why most riders choose the downhill direction from source to sea. It’s a no brainer! The official trailhead at the foothills of Aoraki/Mt Cook looks inviting with its flowing downhill trail through to the tussock flats of the Tasman Valley, and with Mt Cook airport providing a short flight with bikes across the river. The trail then weaves along the riverside before picking up a WE ARE THE ALPS 2 OCEAN TRAIL EXPERTS Our fully supported tours have a proven record to be the best on the trail. We have been operating on the trail since its conception and understand the trail to take you on an unforgettable cycle journey. We are based in historic Oamaru and operate from our cycle shop so also offer cycle hire, day trips and servicing. CALL FOR cycleventuresnz THIS SEASONS AVAILABILITY ph. 03 434 5010 / 021 84427 | [email protected] | www.cycleventures.co.nz 44 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

rural roadside to Lake Pūkākī. However, we opt to start on the grassy, green banks of the lower reaches of the lake. I assemble the GPS units on my handlebars and take in the view. Northward is sheer beauty with a backdrop of mountains cradling the lake, its reflective surface drawing my eye to the magnificent white peak of Aoraki. Here the glacier meltwaters of the main divide become our trail companion accompanying us downstream over the next few days. Our mapping party consists of two couples, avid riders keen to explore the trail and avoid the mishap of our previous Alps 2 Ocean 3 journey. We have several cameras between plug into the scheme to recharge our batteries between trail sections. I us to document our trail time and to build the photographic journey bet there is no e-bike riding club large enough to drain this scheme. We for the Great Rides App. With the GPSs recording, we head off on power on too, using solely human output to keep our wheels turning some of the most scenic lakeside cycle trails in the country. It is a crisp over the expanse of Twizel’s Pūkākī Flats. Soon our energy levels fall spring morning, the lake is calm, and its waters so turquoise from the to critically low levels and we ride into the village square for a lunch suspended glacier rock-flour sediment that it appears unreal. We ride of waffle fries and burgers. After recharging our tummies we head off, slowly to savour every moment as the trail curves along the foreshore, and unlike the previous year’s debacle we stay on the official trail that every sweep offering a different perspective of this majestic landscape. leads smoothly beside the canals to the control gates of Lake Ōhau. If the rest of the NZ Great Rides are anything like the start of this first Bliss! Here, beside the lake, we ride the loveliest of trail sections. Its ride, then we were in for the ride of a lifetime building this app! tight and intimate path hugs the native scrub and is never far from the After several kilometres of cycling, the lake terminates at a dam wall. water that tempts us in for a swim at each shingle bay we pass. It is too It is a mind-boggling thought that this cycle trail passes canals and cold for me but the others pussy-foot in and shiver out refreshed. This rivers that interconnect seven large lakes to generate electricity at the section of the track is a highlight and a rider’s delight. eight hydroelectric stations that make up the Waitaki power scheme. It’s so BIG! The scheme generates sufficient electricity to power a million Soon we are at the base of the Ōhau ski-field access road. We click homes! One day we will succumb to the temptation of an e-bike and down to low gears and start the gentle but long 11km climb to the 4 Special Edition 2019 45

Mackenzie Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail Tarnbrae summit. Being the first trip in ages, my climbing fitness could be better and I puff my way up a few hundred vertical metres to the 700m contour line. As the last member of our group reaches the top we have a celebratory dance, take long gulps from our water bottles and admire the elevated views above Lake Ōhau and the Mackenzie Basin. While the views are outstanding, we don’t linger as there is still a spring chill in the air. Just a few metres on, the thrill of the downhill is just a switchback away so we point our wheels downwards and let gravity do the work for us. The descent is sweet and effortless as our wheels pick up pace until we reach the flatter grassland below, then there are just a couple of rocky fords to negotiate before we reach the historic Quailburn woodshed. It is here we stop for the day to pitch our tents, explore the relics and have a restful night’s sleep. Next morning sees us head south past the turnoff to the badland formations of the Clay Cliffs, over the Ahuriri River and into the gliding 56 On the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail Dinner, bed and breakfast or stop for coffee or lunch and enjoy our cyclists platter on the deck. Bookings: Lake Ohau Lodge Email: [email protected] ph. +64 3 438 9885 | WWW.OHAU.CO.NZ 46 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

magnet of Ōmarama. As the rest of my cycling 7 5. Edging along the shores companions are rather big Bruce Springsteen fans there are numerous versions of his song Badlands Set up for the day by a good night’s sleep in Kurow, of Lake Ohau being sung into the wind over this section of the trail. we continue on to Duntroon, a hamlet that truly From Ōmarama, we pedal eastward for the rest of embraces its heritage with a restored blacksmith’s 6. Delighted to reach the the ride. Cresting the Chain Hills we are reunited shop and town gaols. They are cool. There are also with the waters of the Waitaki scheme. The ride limestone statues, a fossil centre, a cave and ancient trail’s highest point here is gorgeous with willows wisping in the wind, rock drawings that can be seen from the trail. As the rustic iron-clad barns, and a trail so well-tailored trail climbs through farmland, nature’s massive rock 7. Light conditions are epic it’s as if Mother Nature herself had threaded it art dominates. Was that the shape of a giant goat through the countryside. There’s a variety of terrain watching us sweat up the hill? Another is more like a on silhouetted landforms and associated scenery on the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle camel, right down to its caramel-coloured coat. Then, Trail (in a distance easily achieved on a bicycle) that as we reach Elephant Rocks, the outcrops multiply 8. The willows are a real other places can’t begin to even dream of. I love this and become more grandiose. Here we park up our country. Reaching the rest area at Sailors Cutting, bikes and walk between the limestone shapes as pleasant part of the ride we delight in finding an unexpected mobile coffee each blob morphs into a figure in one’s imagination. van. A refreshing beverage and a chat with the For me the outcrops pop out of the pasture like cream 9. The Otematata wetlands vendor soon sees us underway to Otematata – the townhouses built on a greenfield site quickly erected next settlement. Here the trail overlooks wetlands but yet to be landscaped. There are no small lumps, are so calm and scenic full of waterfowl as it arcs around the hillside until just individual monoliths sprouting from the earth. the massive earth bund of the Benmore Dam rises 10. Catching a cuppa at before us. Biking up one hundred vertical metres beside the dam is a challenge but the views are well Sailors Cutting worth it. Riding atop the dam wall we take in the lapping waters that are almost out of place in the arid 11. Benmore dam is such landscape. Below us are the dam’s infrastructure of pylons, spillways and six massive concrete pipes – so a massive structure big that they could easily transport trucks through to the turbines. We continue following the willow- lined lake, past picturesque camping spots that beg us to return and follow the flow of Waitaki River seaward until twilight. 89 10 11 Special Edition 2019 47

Mackenzie Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail 12 13 We ride on and enter the Narnia chasm; a realm that eats up the trail like that spring has sprung. Gardens of flowers are in full bloom. We take a it’s coming to a dead-end, yet on into its bowels we explore before being moment to stop and admire the ponds, the weeping trees that are laden spat out via a series of switchbacks that release us from this film site. down with flowers, and families enjoying the warmth of the new season. In our last trail moments, we take in the Victorian quarter of town with The environment changes before us yet again as we ride out of the its magnificent limestone facades, fascinating arty stores, steampunk inland aridness and into the coastal murk. We see small glimpses through HQ and the Whitestone City heritage hub. Finally we reach the walk-in the clag of limestone outcrops, deep rolling valleys and carpets of lush picture frame of the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail. Like others before us we green pasture. Before we know it we reach a dark tunnel. Its building mount its stage and pose for a shot. Like the riders who leave from the blocks are the same limestone that we have seen at the elephant rock base of Aoraki/Mt Cook more than 300 kilometres back, we too have monoliths. The former Rakis railway tunnel is our first taste of a rail wide smiles. With our mission of mapping the very trail which once had trail and our portal eastward to the ocean. One last climb and we see me … uh hmm … ‘disoriented’ completed, the ghosts of the past have the blue hue of the Pacific Ocean; our bikes seem to not need our driving been put to rest and I stand in the frame focused on my next cycling power as we drop into the outskirts of Ōamaru. As the trail passes right and mapping adventure. through one of the oldest public gardens in the country, we see proof Statistics 310km, (Grade 2–3 Easy to Intermediate) Official Links: www.alps2ocean.com Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 48 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle