NZToday-RV Lifestyle Vol 9

Dethleffs Traillite 1961 ACM Sunlight Shasta bespoke Walk & Cycle Trails Heartland Journeys Road Trips WIN A $250 Reviews INTERISLANDERVOUCHER see page 74 VOL. 9 MAR-APR 2021 CpcwNaargoamuāwyawpsfibgīsurhor&guenrds ETavuenptō Bay tsrpaeccttoarcular RotDoestirnatuionsa& Lifrestoyle cks Hot springs, zip-lining and local history Walk & cycle trails Road trips RTveooxupnlacegapraenierhiincruoce WeWexllhpinalognBrtgaoeatnainoctuhnoi TAabseml an ChtroisDtcuhnuerdcihn tcTraoasacmsktaanl rcaSllaloysusatircholcau1a0nnr0dds Allan Dick’s southern road trip



Waimeha Camping Village, Ngāwī Photo: Bruce ‘the rock’ Mountain

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Road trips s 27 Wellington to Whanganui – John Bishop explores the beaches along the coastline and enjoys a camping holiday road trip CONTENTS 47 Christchurch to Dunedin – Allan Dick takes the scenic coastal road to Dunedin, stopping at towns and villages along the way VOLUME 9 Mar-Apr 2021 65 The Classic Alpine Tour –100 classic cars get together for a Southland road trip to help support local tourism Destinations – Lifestyle RV PETS 7 Bay of Plenty – Robyn shares a weekend honeymoon adventure in Rotorua 35 Northland – Northland’s Taupō Bay Tractor Spectacular 60 Otago – Teschemakers, a former Roman Catholic school, now offers luxury accommodation Caspar’s Caper 70 Canterbury – Orton Bradley Park, Kathy explores this special park outside Christchurch 77 South Wairarapa – the Waimeha Camping Village now offers food; try their pāua and crayfish burgers WIN $250 81 Classic Caravan – Don and Marilyn admire a classic Shasta Airflyte caravan INTERISLANDER FERRY VOUCHER Walk and cycle trails SEE p126 18 Tongariro Northern Circuit – Gary maps this multi-day Great Walk and is fascinated by the experience 39 Abel Tasman – Gary explores rocky headlands and sandy bays on this popular coastal Great Walk Reviews, Profiles and Show advertorials 86 Advertorial profiles – Covi Motorhome Caravan Outdoor Supershow 96 UCC Motorhomes – Latest model Dethleffs Distinction Sunlight motorhome 102 TrailLite – 2021 profile update with Traillite GM Shaun Newman Regular – Competitions – Marketplace BOOKS TO BE WON 111 Walkabout – industry news and products 113 RV Books – latest release books to be won SEE p113 115 Road Kai – Road recipes and a new cookbook to be won 116 Events – scheduled upcoming events March and April 118 Marketplace and RV Trade Directories 126 Caspar Capers – be in to win with Interislander



EDITOR’S Letter to Readers ISSN 2703-2477 (Print) ISSN 2703-2485 (Online) Autumn is here NZToday RV Lifestyle Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021 W hat a summer it has been; hot and dry throughout the country. Why wouldn’t you want www.rvlifestyle.co.nz for most parts, in and out of Levels for something right? If there is one thing Covid-19 has Covid-19, house buying frenzy hiking taught us, it is how handy it is to have an additional EDITOR house prices to unbelievable peaks – it self-contained living space for family or friends Robyn Dallimore, [email protected] has certainly been all go and it’s already March. to use, both at home as separate living in strange ADVERTISING MANAGER situations like Covid, or as an easy travel option to Bruce Mountain, [email protected] We have had a great break over December and get around the country, safely enclosed within your 021 657 090, Auckland Office 09 296 2926 January. The RocknRobyn 6 motorhome has been own bubble wherever you go. SUB-EDITING & PROOFING all over the country that is for sure – we even got Thiers Halliwell, Allan Walton a photo of it at Milford Sound with Mitre Peak Sales of second-hand products are also DESIGN Cameron Leggett in the background mirroring the image on the booming, with dealers telling me they are selling CONTRIBUTORS Sheryl Bainbridge, motorhome. trade-in models for the same price they were Robyn Dallimore, Allan Dick, John Bishop, selling four years earlier, the demand is so high. Allan Walton, Jane Dove Juneau, Don Jessen, Gary For one of our trips south we took a leisurely Patterson (for us) three days to get back to Martinborough, We will be at the Show as usual, so stop in to our COVER SHOTS Waikite Hot Springs and bottom staying in campgrounds and luxuriating in the stand in Hall 4 Stand 428, renew your subscription image Blue Lakes. SUNLIGHT A72 motorhome. pleasures of doing so instead of always being on if it is up for renewal and we will have a special Photographer Bruce Mountain a mission and having to pull over in rest stops to offer as always. SUBSCRIPTIONS & ADMINISTRATION sleep and be on the road by Subscriptions Manager Laura Atkinson dawn. We headed to Ngāwī Enjoy the bumper read inside. We and our [email protected] on the South Wairarapa writers take enormous pride in sharing our stories Phone enquiries: 06 306 6041 coast while down home, and journeys with you, showing you somewhere Mon to Fri – Office hours 10am to 3pm staying at a campground new or taking you down your own memory SUBSCRIPTION RATES again instead of parking in lane, always with the aim of inspiring travel One year $49.95 (6 issues) the freedom camping area, and relaxation, and in today’s world being part Australia/Pacific $90 (6 issues) and what a treat that was – of a solution for small businesses of many types Rest of World $150 (6 issues) crayfish burgers, pāua and across rural and heartland New Zealand, both Full online website access $25 1 year fresh-caught fish in the in tourism-oriented local and regional activities, RV-NZTODAY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE new restaurant and bar at as well as the local cafés and restaurant whose IS PUBLISHED BY Waimeha Camping Vil- passing trade no longer exists. RnR Publishing Limited lage. Check out this place PO Box 220 later in these pages. Take care out there, and use the Covid-19 app Martinborough, to sign in everywhere – it really isn’t that hard Wairarapa 5711 Travelling around New – or make sure you are religious about keeping Main office Ph: 06 306 6030 Zealand is on everyone’s daily records of your activities. As mama used to Auckland Sales office: 09 296 2926 mind; a weekend here and say, God helps them that help themselves, right. Mail: PO Box 220, Martinborough there, locally and inter-re- We are masters of our own demise if we are lazy. 28 Oxford Street, Martinborough, 5711 gionally, is keeping us all PUBLISHERS sane and self-rewarded See you at the show, or on the road around the Bruce Mountain, [email protected] for our Covid-19 patience and ‘team of 5 million country. Robyn Dallimore, [email protected] effort’. This March-April-May time of year is often PRINTING the best time weather-wise to travel, especially Robyn Mountain OVATO around the South Island. Yes, you will usually get DISTRIBUTION a three-day snowy cold snap roar across the coun- Editor Gordon and Gotch try in late March, but from then on you can often expect gorgeous, warm autumn days, crisp nights NOTICE TO ADVERTISERS and beautiful vistas as the trees around the coun- RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence try drop their leaves. I know that in mid-winter in the preparation of this magazine, but is not Stewart Island of all places is a great place to visit. responsible or liable for any mistakes, misprints, July is their kindest winter month for travel, and omissions or typographical errors. RnR Publishing the hikes and walks are stunning through the bush Ltd prints advertisements provided to the where rain hardly gets through anyway. Don’t let publisher, but gives no warranty and makes no autumn or winter weather stop you from getting representation to the truth, accuracy or sufficiency out there. of any description, photograph or statement. RnR Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for any loss that March 19 to 21 is the Covi Motorhome Caravan may be suffered by any person who relies either Outdoor Supershow and from what I hear visitors wholly or in part upon any description, photograph will be champing at the bit to dive through the gates or statement contained herein. Advertisers are to get themselves an RV. With some dealers taking advised that all advertising must conform to the orders for delivery later in the year, or even into ASA Codes of New Zealand Advertising; full details 2022, those who have actual stock on the ground and codes book available from asa.co.nz. RnR or due to arrive soon after the show will have a Publishing Ltd reserves the right to refuse any sales frenzy on their hands, such is the demand advertisement for any reason. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating NZTODAY RV Lifestyle magazine is copyright 2021 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher. Please check our website www.RnRPublishing.co.nz for a full Terms and Conditions of advertising schedule. Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 5

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Rotorua › Bay of Plenty TRAVEL 38.1446° S, 176.2378° E Rocking Rotorua honeymoon fun With a three-day weekend booked in Rotorua for a mini-honeymoon and with so much on offer there, planning what activities to fit in was a challenge. We picked the classic activities to start our days and explored the area of my childhood by rail cart at Mamaku, before finishing at a luxury resort on Lake Rotorua. Words Robyn Dallimore Photos Bruce Mountain (Rock) SCAN QR TO WATCH THE VIDEO OR CLICK IN DIGITAL EDITION Youtube channel: NZTODAY RV Lifestyle Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 7

12 T he end of the 2020 year came fast and Ngongotahā where we immediately headed ready to start our Rotorua adventure the fol- furious with two magazine deadlines, to the famous Luge experience area for a bit of lowing day. and an impromptu wedding between the excitement to start the evening off. Watching Rock and his Robyn (me), after 26 years others as we waited to get going had me a little We were tempted to take the Zoom Zipline together. This prompted us to organise a long worried at the speeds involved, so I was happy down the mountain, and there was also weekend in the town of my birth, Rotorua, for to see the slower scenic track option and it mountain biking and the Skyswing to tempt a bit of time away to stay, play and enjoy the has viewing bays for taking photos. How- us, but we started our weekend with just the unique volcanic area and its sights, sounds, ever, after our first run I was in the groove basics – lovely gondola ride up the mountain, and even smells. and happy to step it up to the intermediate fun on the Luge, romantic dinner overlook- track with its chicanes and tunnel speeding ing the town of my birth and the stunning We left Auckland about 2pm and headed things up. The chairlift back up was a bit of Lake Rotorua – before booking into the Mil- south, excited to have finished work for the fun as well. lennium Hotel with our motorhome for two year and to be visiting new places as well as nights, to enjoy a room overlooking the Poly- looking forward to new experiences we hav- We stayed at the top and enjoyed a buffet nesian Spa hot pools and the lake front, with en’t done before or for many years. First stop dinner at the Stratosfare restaurant overlook- buffet breakfast by the pool each morning as we arrived in town was the Skyline Rotorua ing Lake Rotorua – my vegan Rock had plenty if we chose. As many RV’ers know there are for a gondola ride to the top of Mount to choose from so we were both well fed and times for the RV, as well as times to be spoilt 8 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

3 by hotel facilities and room service – right. 4 they installed 450 traps over 100ha of the Saturday morning saw us up early, full when Rotorua Canopy Tours first established reserve, and today in 2021 there is a rat trap their business in the Dansey Road Scenic every 50m and a possum trap every 100m – from breakfast and ready for Rotorua Canopy Reserve. At that point in time there was very over 650 traps had caught 9510 pests by 2018. Tours to pick us up; our first adventure of the little native birdlife in the bush as introduced Birdlife has bounced back incredibly, and a weekend was to go ziplining in an ancient rats, stoats and possums had essentially eaten rare striped skink species not seen for decades restored forest in the Mamaku hills. Our everything that moved over the previous 100 can now be found here. Long-tailed bats have driver Sean was also one of our guides, and years or so. During a simple experiment in been spotted, four spiders completely new to as we got weighed (eek) and kitted up with 2013, chew cards and peanut butter test baits science have been discovered and the oldest harnesses and safety instructions our second were obliterated by vermin overnight. This known living creature, the velvet worm, are guide Tegan joined our small group – a father galvanised the business to start an eradication just some of the diverse species thriving in and son also joined us – before we jumped in programme on 50ha of the reserve resulting this protected environment. the van and drove to the ancient restored bush in the capture of over 700 rats and possums site on the Mamaku Plateau north of Rotorua. in just the first three days. Over the following The Department of Conservation were years, this work expanded and today in 2021 impressed with the dedicated work of the The Rock and I were super excited to be encompasses 280ha of reserve bush. company, and joined with them to establish doing something outside our comfort zone; the Canopy Conservation Trust in 2015. The traversing through 500-year-old trees 22 We were impressed by the high-tech Rotorua Canopy Tours company has spent metres above the ground, crossing swing- gas-powered self-resetting traps being used over $250,000 on conservation efforts in what bridges, and whizzing through canopy from today, designed by a Wellington-based is essentially their publicly owned work envi- one tree to another while hanging from company, GoodNature. Canopy Tours were ronment, and a portion of every tour ticket is ziplines by a hook and rope, all certainly well the first commercial operator to use this contributed to the Trust. Customers are often outside my comfort zone. ground-breaking pest control system. In 2015 inspired by their efforts as well, and What a great morning we had, starting with you can sponsor a new trap or con- the wonderful feeling you get from simply tribute in other ways – check out their walking in native bush, hearing the birdlife website for more details. and in our case having a bird fly down to eat from Sean’s palm right in front of us. Our guides Sean and Tegan were fun, informative and passionate. As we walked we were shown ferns and plants, learnt about their place in the bush as well as the history of the reserve and the transformation that has taken place since 2012 56 1. Hmm not sure about that fast lane. I was glad to find there was a slower scenic route to start on 2. Views over the city and lake are stunning 3. How handy, getting picked up and dropped of at the hotel. I was limbering up before we headed off 4. The work that has been put into trapping and conservation is admirable. A part of ticket sales goes towards the cause 5. This is how I really felt before the first steps off the platform 6. Happier now to step off on a long handsfree zip through the tree tops Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 9

78 Both were born and bred in Rotorua and both alas we had to head off for our afternoon visit the area name was changed to the Waimangu have worked in varying tourism experiences to the youngest geothermal area in the world. Volcanic Valley, though the geyser ceased to in the area over the years. I admit that the blow from 1904. first time I was hooked up to the zipline and Our destination for the early afternoon gently encouraged to ‘walk forward down the was Waimangu Volcanic Valley, around half Today we will walk alongside the remaining steps and step off ’, my heart felt like it was an hour south of Rotorua, off the road to crater lakes, hot water creeks, boiling water going to jump out of my throat, but by the Taupō. Over the years we have both been to and mud that follow the fissure in the rocks third zipline I was handsfree and loving it. I most of the ‘hot spots’ of the region, but this down to the foreshore of Lake Rotomahana, did balk at being told to lean back and let go was our first visit to the Waimangu Volcanic where we will take a boat trip on the lake to on the walkway, to hang out for a cool photo Valley. This area was formed as a result of see more hydrothermal activity, fumaroles – that resulted in a firm “No way. I will never the 1886 Tarawera eruption, which covered and steaming cliffs on what is essentially a haul my arse back in again!” The Rock then the then-world-famous pink and white silica large dormant volcano’s crater lake. put me to shame as he put his trust in Sean terraces, killed 120 local residents of the area, when he said “I will swing you back in, no and decimated all life within 6km. Over time We started out in the Waimangu Local worrries mate,” and he did so with ease – well Lake Rotomahana became 20x larger and Store and Café, enjoying a bit of lunch after it looked easy from my place on the platform, 170 metres deeper, hot springs appeared and our morning activities and watching the safe and secure. We were buzzing at the end of seven craters erupted further south, originally weather close in. We chatted with the recep- our adventure and were actually keen as mus- named Okaro Craters. Later, in 1900, when tion girls, and after hearing what I thought tard to take on the Ultimate course, which has the world’s largest geyser started to erupt was the mention of a 1.2km walk to the boat, many more challenges to blow your mind, but from the area, its discharge was black so it I grabbed an umbrella and we headed off to was named Waimangu or black water, and walk the gravel pathway heading down the bushy hillside with maps in hand, the pouring 9 10 CALL US ON 07 579 6489 or 021 063 9578 (call or text) VIEW ON OUR YARD 15 Birch Ave, Judea, Tauranga [email protected] | www.ROADLIFE.CO.NZ 10 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

rain making walking on stones a little tricky. 11 to the public. In 2004 Mark and Lisa Bowie The views were stunning. Echo Lake was We headed off in the motorhome about took over the lease, and the Living Waters of looking beautiful, and the colours on and Waikite Valley business hasn’t looked back. around the waterways were vibrant. It is a 4pm to visit another spot in the area that we In 2006 to 2007 the couple invested $400,000 great walk, but I had heard wrong – the entire hadn’t been to before, the Waikite Valley Ther- into the site for showers, toilets and public walk is closer to 4km. Happily there is a bus mal Pools for a hot pool swim and relaxation. facilities. Today the area has a small camp- service that runs up and down the hill, so we This small area in the middle of rolling hills ground of 24 sites, six warm to hot water elected to jump on it at one of the bus stops comprises 35 springs over a 1.5km distance bathing pool options, including private pools, to be sure we could make the boat 2pm trip. bubbling out water ranging in temperature and the fully licensed Pukeko-In-A-Ponga from 30°C to 99.5°C. The Te Manaroa Spring Tree café is open 12 to 7pm daily to cater for We couldn’t believe the number of black is the largest single source of 100% pure geo- swimmers and campers. You can also do a swans on the lake, no doubt a result of it thermal water in New Zealand. In 1969, local walk from the pool complex to the source of being a wildlife refuge. What a way to spend residents went to the Council with a plan for the spring where it bursts out of the ground the afternoon, clipping along in a boat on a a thermal pool whose water source would be discharging thousands of litres of geothermal beautiful lake for 45 minutes surrounded by the Te Manaroa Spring. The Council agreed energy into the Otamakokore Stream. bush and mountains with steam and colour- and in 1972 the complex was officially opened ful displays to see and a history commentary to follow. I loved the fact that we can now say we have literally been over the Pink and White Terraces – there was just a lot of water separating us from them, somewhere down there. Later we got the bus back up to the top and on the way up saw the various tracks that could be hiked to see even more areas such as the Black Crater, and the Raupo Pond Crater which erupted back in 2016 (to what degree I don’t know). Realising you are in a crater area is reinforced to you everywhere. Quite a few walks and hikes are available to visitors so multiple visits can be undertaken to really take it all in. 7. The Rock proved his mettle and leaned off the bridge, Sean was a legend with the flick and pull to help get him back up - not that he needed help of course! 8. A small but happy group playing in the tree tops 9. We had lunch on the deck before heading down the gravel hillside track 10. The tour boat trip has a running commentary as you go past Mount Tarawera, gliding above the white and pink terrace sites, past steaming cliffs and bubbling spitting fumaroles with brilliant colours to be seen 11. Crossing the hot water stream as it heads to the lake 12. Waikite Thermal Pools Springs and Spa. The stream water flows beside the top walkway to 12 the entrance. The pools look picture perfect THE BEST WAY TO SEE NEW ZEALAND Save 15% • Accommodation at 30+ NZ owned and operated holiday parks on your stay! • Bluebridge Ferry Crossing *Terms and conditions apply Easy online bookings at www.kiwiholidayparks.com Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 11

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From the minute we arrived I was 13 that was not taken over the centuries despite impressed with how clean everything was, Te Whakarewarewatanga O Te Ope Taua A many battles over that time. Cooking in hot pathways swept clean, gardens looked after, Wāhiao, which means ‘The gathering place for springs continues to this day in the area, and nice paintwork around the place. You will be the war parties of Wāhiao’. Often abbreviated as part of your personal tour experience you thinking so what, but as a seasoned traveller to ‘Whaka’ by locals, the area was originally even get to try some steamed pudding cooked visiting a lot of businesses around the coun- the site of the Māori fortress of Te Puia. On right there by the hot springs. try, bird poop on tables and seats, moss and Sundays they offer a buffet breakfast/brunch mould on seats and walls are not my idea of experience in the Pātaka Kai restaurant with We had booked to take a guided tour of a well-presented business. I have owned and great views across parts of the 70 hectares of the National Traditional Carvers and Weav- run a vineyard café for five years where we geothermal landscape. There are seven active ers school, before walking through the kiwi wiped tables and chairs daily for bird poop, geysers with their own names, 65 vents in house for a nocturnal experience, and con- swept leaves and debris away, water blasted total and around 500 pools or hot springs. tinuing on around to have my photograph exterior buildings twice a year, painted yearly Māori have been on the site since at least 1325 taken in front of Pōhutu Geyser, the most – it isn’t that hard – I like a place that looks where they lived in an impenetrable fortress famous geyser in the country –about the 20th loved and well presented. A big tick and photo of myself there in 40 years. The geyser accolades to these guys. I was so impressed 14 had been bringing visitors to the region since with the whole place. We had a private hot the early 1840s, but by the mid 1980s, with pool (had to be done, we were on our hon- everyone drawing geothermal water out of the eymoon), then moved from pool to pool to ground to use in their homes for heating, hot warm up and cool down as we needed. The water and hot tubs, the underground source campground got a quick look over as we had diminished and the geyser activity decreased met and chatted with a woman traveller at and couldn’t be relied on to blow regularly Waimangu who was touring the area in an enough to wow the tourists coming to visit. Explorer motorhome and was planning on In 1987–1988 locals within 1.5km had to seal spending a night there before heading down their private home bores with concrete, along to Taupō. with around 120 other bore sites around the area. Happily these closures worked to great We headed back to the hotel relaxed and effect, and today the springs and geysers are as happy after our adventurous day. Later in good as ever, with Pōhutu on a natural hourly the evening we walked into the main city schedule shooting up to 30 metres in height. area just down the road from the hotel and found a restaurant in the dining precinct Eat Streat. The last trip through Rotorua from Lake Waikaremoana saw us stop here to eat but we had Caspar with us and no dogs were allowed, so we jumped at the chance to explore this cool and trendy area. I have to applaud Rotorua on how grownup it is now- adays with a great café and restaurant culture to enjoy. My vege hubby was almost spoilt for choice – almost! Sunday morning saw us up and heading out the door to a world-renowned (from the 1840s) Rotorua geothermal attraction 15 13. The landscape 16 17 and views are lovely. This pool was perfect temperature 14. Pohutu Geyser blows regularly and up to 30 metres high 15. Built to store food, up off the ground with an entrance in the floor 16. Tired of walking, there is a lift available 17. View from restaurant over the 70 hectare site with geyser blowing in the background Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 13

18 19 With a great meal under our belts we since 1967 when it was established on this country to train under master carver Hōne Te headed off to meet our group and tour guide, site, though the real start was back in 1926 Kāuru Taiapa – a student of the first Wānanga a sixth-generation guide at the facility, who when legislation was passed to ensure the Whakairo. Two of those original apprentices completely enchanted us with his family story. preservation of the skills and teaching of are present-day New Zealand Māori Arts and His knowledge and enthusiasm for the his- Māori arts and crafts through future genera- Crafts Institute master carvers who continue tory of the area was informative and fun as we tions. The first Wānanga Whakairo intake was to pass down their craft. I realise as I write went from the Meeting House area to watch in 1927 and students from that period went this I would have likely seen Hōne Te Kāuru the incredible carvers and apprentices at work on to carve many of the prominent wharenui Taiapa teaching these students in the original in the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts (meeting houses) around the country. These building in the early 1970s when I visited the Institute working with greenstone, wood and students then became teachers and passed the attraction many times as a teenager, watching bone, and in another area the weavers learning knowledge down from generation to genera- the boys carving pieces of trees into story-tell- and sharing their craft with us. There was so tion. In 1967 a school was established on this ing pieces of art. much to take in and absorb in this part of the Whakarewarewa Valley site with seven carv- facility. Amazing work has been undertaken ing apprentices being chosen from around the We moved on through the tour going to the kiwi house, and then walking through the EXCLUSIVE NZ ALL NEW 2021 COACHMAN DEALER MODELS JUST ARRIVED! Discover the luxury of Coachman & see why they were 2020 Award Limited numbers of XCEL models Winners across so many catergories: in both LASER & ACADIA range. • SELF – LEVELLING LEGS • LASER XCEL 8 FOOT WIDE • XCEL RANGE IN STOCK NOW WINNER: BEST LUXURY 4 BERTH CARAVAN | Laser 675 BE QUICK! WINNER: BEST UK MANUFACTURER | Coachman WINNER: BEST LUXURY TOURER | Laser XCEL 850 PLACE YOUR WINNER: BEST TOURER LARGE FAMILIES | Acadia 630 ORDER TODAY! • Extensive range of new & used caravans to choose from. • We supply & fit solar, sat dishes, tanks, movers etc. • Talk to Craig, Melissa & the team to find your next caravan. WE ALSO BUY QUALITY USED CARAVANS WE CAN’T BE AT THE COVI SHOW THIS YEAR BUT WE ARE TAKING ORDERS AND HAVE STOCK ARRIVING SOON! 2 Gateway Drive, Whakatane 3120 07 307 1000 | 027 2300 955 www.gatewaycaravans.co.nz 14 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

20 21 thermal valley taking in the various geysers, 21 tūī, bellbirds, tomtits, kererū and robins and mud pools, boiling water ponds and steam After a quick look around we then headed the endangered kōkako. vents as our guide shared the history and information on how the area was formed and north out of Rotorua and turned up Dansey Today Mamaku is home to around 837 how the local Māori utilised the geothermal Road, where my family lived on a farm until people working in farming, blueberry wine- resources as part of everyday living. I was around three, at which time we moved making, off-road biking and RailCruising to Hamilton. I was super interested to go and – the reason for our visit. The Rotorua Rail- The guided tours take around two hours see the actual village of Mamaku where I way ran a passenger rail service to Mamaku and are invaluable for sharing informa- apparently went to kindy. Originally named until 2001 when it was closed, leaving the tion that you miss when walking around by Kaponga until 1890 when its name changed tracks unused. In 2009 Neil and Jane Oppatt yourselves. But saying that, you can use the to Mamaku, the village once rivalled Rotorua had an idea, “wouldn’t it be great to have a STQRY App that Te Puia developed back in in population as it was the heart of a native self-guided rail cart that could take visitors on 2013 to read information, see snapshots and forestry milling boom that went from the late a journey down the original rail tracks, with a other multimedia experiences as you walk 1800s into the 1970s ending with the demise recorded commentary pointing out places of around the site. This is pretty cool for interna- of native logging, with the last mill closing importance and sharing the history and tales tional tourists as it converts to more than 60 in 2015. There were five timber mills at one of the area”, and away they went determined languages – not that there are many visitors time with the population topping 1300 at to make it happen. right now, but it has been fantastic for visitors its peak. It is quite amazing that the Dansey to utilise over the last eight years. Road Scenic Reserve, 470 hectares of origi- The physical work was undertaken on nal indigenous forest, survived this period re-establishing the line, checking it metre by Time flew by until it was time for us to of intense timber milling. Today you can metre for what is now a 19km track that takes head off to our next adventure booked for the see rimu trees up to 60 metres in height that visitors on a return journey from Mamaku afternoon, RailCruising in the Mamakus. But, could well be 1000 years old, along with other to Tarukenga railway stations, and clearing typical of us, we detoured for a quick drive trees known to be at least 500 years old. Tawa gorse, blackberry and broom growth back out to the Blue and Green Lakes for a look is also common throughout, the abundant took a lot of time. They also had to rebuild and quick walk, and a stop at the Redwoods silver fern is a feature, and the birdlife that the railway stations themselves to take the Treewalk for a quick look – we were going to has been re-established in the reserve include number of visitors and provide the ablution do this during the day until we heard they had facilities, parking, safety briefings and safe a night-time viewing with amazing artwork rail-cruiser cars for groups. They opened lights in the trees, so we had changed our to the public in 2011 and have gone from plans to go in the evening instead. strength to strength since then. 18. Beautiful cloak created to traditional methods right here next to me, and available for sale 19. Master carvers work with apprentices. Examples of carving styles on the wall behind 20. Rotorua mud is famous for mud packs, not sure this is the mud they use though 21. An original rail tractor is on display at the local Mamaku playground, sharing the history of the timber mills and railway in the area 22. The Mamaku Railway Station was brought back to life, and built to cope with the numbers of 22 visitors coming out to enjoy the experience Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 15

23 24 25 Developing the rail-cruising carts was A nice place with lots of character in the to go back for. I reckon it is the adventure a challenge. Working with authorities on main building, a lovely chapel for weddings capital of the country with the volcanic pla- the automated or self-drive model was an on site, and different accommodation units teau x-factor underpinning the region. With 18-month process, as new vehicles on the rail- tucked away. We were the only guests that its abundant culture and history, adrenalin way required New Zealand Transport Agency day and for dinner that night, so essentially pumping activities, and lakes and springs rail licences and operating safety manuals had we had a private chef and dedicated waitress with healing waters renowned worldwide for to be established. The rail cars we went in were with a gorgeous table set looking out over the hundreds of years, we can’t wait to head back the third version V3000 Hybrid RailCruiser, lake. We had entrée and main, and after con- there over the Easter period when we go to the possibly the first commercial powered, per- sultation with ‘our staff ’ we then jumped into NZMCA AGM rally being held in Rotorua sonal, self-drive railway tourist attraction in a taxi (as we had shared a wine) and headed this year. We will be between deadlines so the world we are told. to the Redwoods Treewalk, arriving at 8pm may stay for a week and get some cycling in, so we had time to get up into the walkways soak in a variety of hot pools, do a heli trip, We had a lovely afternoon for our 1.5 before it got dark and the lights came to life. maybe a 4WD adventure, learn fly-fishing hours of cruising. We had stopped at the local What a brilliant activity to do. Check out the and eat our way through a few more of the dairy and got snacks and drinks, and I used video link to see the huge bug that appeared restaurants on offer – we can’t wait to return. the ablutions after our safety briefing – very on the ground and moved around – hologram The majority of tourism operators have sig- important as there are no stops or facilities at or augmented reality(?) I am not sure. The nificant discounts and deals on offer to assist the turn-around point at Tarukenga station. David Truebridge created lights are beautiful. Kiwis with their travel budgets, and the least During the commentary it was interesting we can do is take them up on their generous to hear that the Rotorua Railway is the sec- The Whakarewarewa Forest itself is full offerings. And with it being only 300km from ond-steepest railway in New Zealand, the of great activities with walking and cycle half of New Zealand’s population, most of us steepest being the Ōtira Tunnel. In parts this tracks, zipline experiences. The Redwood are well placed to plan a visit. railway has a gradient 1:35, and as we went trees themselves are almost an anomaly as from Mamaku to Tarukenga we climbed they grow faster and bigger in this area than 26 over 250 vertical metres. The journey took their actual homeland. This is also true for 23. Passing under State Highway 5 us under State Highway 5 road bridge and the pinus radiata species which grows twice 24. Turning the cruiser ready to head back through the location of the old Tarukenga as fast here as in its native country, which is 25. At the entrance to the Redwood Forest park railway Station. The railway reached here why, in 1898, the first commercial planting 26. View from the first level looking down over in 1893 from Mamaku, and terminated at of pine trees commenced – it seems trees like the entrance and public toilet area Rotorua 13km away in late 1894. the geothermal warmth just as much as we do. 27. Artwork and lights in the trees at night Our final night in Rotorua was a step up We headed back to Peppers to be greeted as we had booked a night in Peppers on the by a waitress at the door, ready to take our Point, right on Lake Rotorua’s foreshore (at dessert order, which we took in the billiard what had been $1000 for one night when room with a liqueur to end the evening. All we got the voucher two years ago), and we very ‘ooh la la’, right. A breakfast for two in wanted to get settled in for our final night. the dining room next morning and then it 27 was time to head back to reality, 16 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021 after all Christmas was just a week away. So with the motorhome burning rubber getting up the steep concrete driveway exiting the property (front-wheel-drive vehicles can be a beggar, right), we hit the road and headed to Tauranga for a night with the grandson and home the next day. What a brilliant place Rotorua is. It is actually super hard to narrow down just a few activities to do when there – you would need about a month to do a majority of what is on offer and still there would be something

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WALK & CYCLE TRAILS Ruapehu Central Plateau Tongariro › Ruapehu 39.1998° S, 175.5393° E 18 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

A Great Walk M y volcanic great walk starts with an alarming loud blast. It all happened A start with a blast a few days ago when I was mapping Gary maps the Tongariro Northern Circuit on the Tongariro Northern Circuit for a the Central Plateau and is fascinated by this free app I am creating for the NZ Great Walks. multi-day Great Walk, one like no other premier On this trip, the three handheld GPS units tramping experience. that normally sit on my bike’s handlebars are Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited literally handhelds being cupped in my palms. Walking with this handful makes me look like an exercise nut striding along with walkers’ weights. However, I am not in the outdoors for fitness or play. My task is to walk the loop track anti-clockwise over a shorter (but long) two days and collect as much data as I can for the app. It’s nearing the end of spring and I reach the track early. Leaving from the carpark behind the Chateau Tongariro Hotel the air is brisk; in part due to being up in the sub-alpine alti- tudes and in part from the fresh overnight snow that blankets the surrounding peaks. The weather forecast is perfect and my new Earth Sea Sky gear will keep me warm in this extreme environment – no other NZ Great Walk has the entire track above a kilometre high. A short walk leads me into a hollow in the track, then … BOOM! The sound of a sonic blast startles me. If it was not for a treeless landscape every bird would have fled skyward. I expect to see a dark column of vol- canic smoke rising so I pick up my pace to a high point and see … no signs of an eruption. Was it an earthquake I missed while walk- ing? After a few moments, I conclude it must have been an avalanche on Mt Ruapehu, on a massive scale. Although I am 10km from Ruapehu’s crater lake the blast sound was so violent that it sent my heart racing. I continue onward with a greater awareness of nature’s power in this volcanic and alpine landscape. 2 1. Taking in the Red Crater and the symmetry of Mt Ngauruhoe 2. The views are stunning whether you are standing at the top or the bottom of the 1 Taranaki Falls Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 19

3 With my pulse rate now back to normal with its top cloaked in cloud. As I reach the I reach Taranaki Falls. Here I drop my pack junction to Tama Lakes the cloud parts and I 3. Made it to the top overlooking the and scamper down some steep steps to the get my first glimpse of its symmetrical cone. It Lower Tama Lake and Mt Ruapehu 4. A base of the waterfall. The falls are super scenic is difficult to know if the vapour is clearing or crisp mountain spring coming out of the and drop 20 metres off a volcanic cliff, casting clagging. I pick up the pace on the side track headwaters of Mt Ngauruhoe 5. The view a fine spray that fogs my camera lens. I take to the lakes as I am so eager to capture photos from the window from the Waihohonu Hut a few snaps anyway and log GPS readings of these points of interest before it closes in is breathtaking 6. The historic Waihohonu before the morning mist clears and I return on me. It is an easy climb to the semi-circu- Hut, one of the oldest in the country to my pack. Ahead of me is the base of Mt lar lower lake but the best views are beyond 7. The Emerald Lakes have an unreal Ngauruhoe looking staunch and mysterious at the upper one. I scramble towards the sky looking colour palette on the loose tephra rocks. It is a tough race with the swirling cloud. The slope lessens and the 360 degree view reveals volcanic splen- dour everywhere I look. Up here the larger and higher explosive crater lake sits below Mt Ngauruhoe, while the lower lake has Mt Rua- pehu as its backdrop. The massive mountain is still cloaked with winter snow and I can appreciate the avalanches that could careen off its sides in the warming spring melt. I spend nearly an hour up here watching day-walkers slowly joining me while the wisps of cloud quickly retreat. Back on the main route off the flanks of Mt Doom the track’s formation narrows. I find a desolate Middle Earth path that enters a realm cast for the multi-dayer where I sus- pect most day-walkers will never pass. The remoteness washes over me as I follow the Masters Of The FoldiE Bike COLOURS VAST IMPROVERS: 25+ EBO UPGRADES (INDICATIVE) • Superior batteries LIME • Superior, heavy duty 350W motor • Superior, heavy duty transmission CELESTE • Even the chain is upgraded • Plush lux foam gel seat (the best) ORANGE • Shimano gearsets • Anti-vibration ergonomic hand-grips PEARL SILVER CHOOSE FROM 4 SPECIFICATIONS $1550 EuroSpec Villager 250W TowniE 50+km PAS $1650 EuroSpec Villager+ 250W Softnose 50+km PAS $1795 Ebo UpRatedEzi 350W 50+km PAS $1995 EuroProven SuperTourer* 350W 100+km PAS All distances tested and confirmed by EBO Bikes *Yes, I toured Europe with my SuperTourer. Nation-Wide technical support network. WE CONFIDENTLY BACK OUR WARRANTY Ebo integrity: No ‘BS’ gimmicks or claims. Ask us about ‘self charging’ bikes (LOL). ebobikes.co.nz CONTACTS: NATIONAL - ALAN 021 980 511 AUCKLAND+NORTH NEVILLE 0274 951 611 HAWKES BAY TERRY 0274 327 206 20 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

5 46 flow of a pretty bubbling spring. After a brief lunch, GPS units and camera gear. Returning out east I see not a rover but the Desert Road visit to a historic shelter, I reach the large and to the hut, I hoist my pack and traverse the highway; the vast scale gives automobiles the modern Waihohonu Hut. The hut’s picture southern flank of Mt Ngauruhoe. As I walk I appearance of ants, and laden big rigs become window framing the volcanic cone protrud- notice how the orange and pink gravels of this beetles. From this elevation, it’s a crazy juxta- ing out of the beech forest could easily hang desert landscape are so extreme and devoid position of volcanic barrens and the remote in some fancy nature lodge or city gallery. of life. It’s otherworldly. I love it! A landscape Kaimanawa Mountains being cut in half by Although the hut is welcoming I don’t linger more akin to a planet like Mars than our own, civilisation’s road and power lines network. long. I drop my pack and hike on a side track at any moment it seems a Martian rover could I continue along my own line that circum- to a freshwater spring with my hands full of easily cross my path. I round a corner and navigates the mountain’s natural symmetry. 7 Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 21

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The afternoon is deadly quiet. I’ve seen only My second day’s tramp starts gently by rider’s blessing to skip these nasty things but one other soul in the last few hours before I undulating around rock outcrops but soon they are a walker’s curse. While my atten- encounter a near-lifeless rock of a man. As the walls of the steaming crater appear ahead. tion is on my feet I am also deep in thought I approach him I can see his head keeled in This is also where my puffing starts and my about how this volcanic circuit exceeded my despair. I do not give a meaningless greet- heart rate climbs in elevation with the rising expectations – what a joy it is to circumnav- ing but one more pertinent to his weariness grade. My pace is slow and steady for nearly igate Mt Ngauruhoe and how different this and distressed looking state. “Are you ok?” I an hour as I climb the 300 vertical metres up track is from other NZ Great Walks. From ask. It takes a moment for him to come to to the rim. I pass the guy I helped yesterday. my other adventures on other Great Walks life with a simple “No”. I soon learn that this Our hut companions gave him some food there is a common theme. Most of the walks middle-aged solo trekker from the city has and he is in a good shape to make it out to offer waterways, wild forest, or a wicked pass no food. It is not that he has run out of provi- the nearest road end. Near the top, the grade to cross … the Tongariro Northern Circuit sions, it is just that he just decided not to take slackens and the Central Crater is reached, is none of these. It’s a loop of a lifetime, a any for this back-country multi-day trip. In as is the junction with the Tongariro Alpine voyage through volcanism and also a walk in addition to a lack of food he also has no map, Crossing. My early start has secured an empty the exposed wilds. I had a blast. So with a PLB or any clue of his whereabouts. My bewil- crater, devoid of people but full of grandeur. grin I leave the plateau and look forward to derment at his foolishness quickly passes and The hole is not unlike a meteor impact, a sharing the track and the map on the Great my attention now focuses on getting us both round flat pit with steep-sided walls. I cross Hikes App to the hut. After feeding him and lessening his the crater to map the edge of Blue Lake load into my pack, his weakened limp frame before quickly returning as the air starts to 8. Reaching the top of the manages the normally 20-minute walk in just condense. In the crater I discover a native track some 1868 metres up over an hour. The welcoming view of the hut mountain buttercup at 1700 metres … life in 9. The view from every part has him nearly in tears. Later that evening he lifeless environment. It’s a steep climb up the of the circumnavigation of shares how he got to a state where he could velvet scarred edge of the Red Crater rim. On Mt Ngauruhoe is incredible no longer walk, sat down and in a dream-like reaching the track’s highest point (1868m) I delirium heard a voice of an angel saying that surveyed the surroundings. To the north is the PROFILE: A GREAT WALK help will come. I have never seen a man so track’s namesake peak; far out west protrud- spent and ready to meet his maker. It was sad, ing out of a blanket of cloud is Mt Taranaki; Cartographer and trail designer Gary yet I was happy to be there to help him. while Mt Ngauruhoe is only metres away with Patterson has mapped his way around the slivers of snow running down the flanks that globe from subantarctic islands to back- Our hut warden is an entertaining chap. I have nearly rounded. country bike trails on almost every continent. His evening talk to us visitors is factual, fas- He returned home for an epic adventure: riding cinating, funny. He is an incredible orator Clouds and the crossing’s first day-walkers all 22 NZ Cycle Trails Great Rides to create the and his tales have us hanging on every word, start to appear. My morning of solitude is free Great Rides App. Recently he mapped all sometimes in disbelief. His animated deliv- broken and I start the descent. I cross the flat the NZ Great Walks to create the Great Hikes ery starts with Māori mythology spanning basin of the Southern Crater and the crowds App freely downloaded from the app stores. from Māui to the origins of the surrounding are really starting to cross my path. I start by Follow Gary’s travels to inspire, plan and guide Maunga. There were administrative matters saying hello to each but eventually revert to you on your own journey. too, delivered in an upbeat fashion about how a friendly head nod. As I walk I reunite with Great Hikes App: App Store or Play Store we might respond to an overnight eruption, some of last night’s hut companions, and we earthquake or fire. The talk also leaves us with chat while we drop off the crater wall. After questions … did the warden’s hippy parents visiting a soda spring we reach Mangatepopo really name him Buffalo, his brother Bison Hut and stop for lunch. The hut’s silence is and his sisters Daisy, Lily and Rose? After broken by our lively banter that is full of sto- his talk, we applaud in appreciation and we ries of our climb, our tiredness and our last retire to bed to rest our tired legs that feel a bit night’s snorers. Our walk out from the hut half pulled. The night passes with some vocal completes the loop with an easy traverse back snorers. I am not sure how many hours I have to the Chateau and civilisation. slept but I emerge early from the sack ready to depart. From the hut, I can see the crater At the carpark I save my GPS data, switch rim and the low point where I would soon off the units and take off my boots. The only join the popular day walk of the Tongariro negative discovery of the trip comes as I Alpine Crossing. take off my socks to reveal a family of rowdy blisters that has set up camp on my feet; a MOTORHOME & CARAVAN FINANCE! www.thefinancelady.co.nz Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 23

ADVERTORIAL 7 must-dos while roaming Ruapehu Hidden gems and local favourites in Our Greater Outdoors R oll down the windows, listen to nature’s radio and let the rhythm of Ruapehu fly fishing, wilderness trout fishing and jet gem follows a well-maintained track through welcome your arrival. Mountain song, fishing, or for a bit more action on the awa, beech forest, tussock country and pristine there are also jet boating and canoeing expe- alpine lakes with epic views of Mt Ruapehu and flowing rivers, and the rush of waterfalls riences to enjoy. Mt Ngāuruhoe. For those pinched on time, – our greater outdoors in the heart of the you can opt to do the beginning of the Tama Central North Island is the perfect place to 3. NZ MADE MERINO AND Lakes Track to Taranaki Falls and back. Pack explore, indulge and find aroha in the detail. GIFTS AT THE CRAFT HAUS well and prepare for all weather conditions. From the towering peaks of Tongariro Treat yourself to the best of the best with National Park (a UNESCO Dual World Her- luxury NZ made merino apparel and sustain- 6. BIKE ALONG THE TIMBER TRAIL itage Site) to the mystical Whanganui River in able goods from The Craft Haus – a national Whanganui National Park, Ruapehu is a natu- heritage building and original railway station Pedal powered and on two wheels, discover ral wonderland where you can do something that is also known as OPUS Fresh HQ. Enjoy the iconic Timber Trail by bike and explore new yet feel right at home, where a journey a hot cuppa from the espresso bar, wind down this 84 km cycleway in Pureora Forest Park of discovery and delight awaits. by the fire, and support local. surrounded by ancient native bush and bird- song, spectacular suspension bridges as well 1. MINIGOLF AND HIGH TEA 4. DISCOVER THE KAKAHI as Mt Pureora’s mysterious Cloud Forest. AT BRADLEYS GARDEN GLOWWORMS Shuttles, bike hire and accommodation avail- able for bookings. Tucked away in Taumarunui is a world-class A 20-minute drive from Taumarunui is a nat- experience at Bradleys Garden. Discover 5 ural hidden gem to experience after dark. The 7. SKY WAKA GONDOLA acres of stunning gardens, a natural amphi- Kakahi Glowworms is an off the beaten track RIDE AND DINE theatre, a mischievous mini-putt course, high must-do in Ruapehu located near the banks tea in the gazebo as well as plenty of space and of the Whakapapa River. Under a canopy of Make the most of your journey to the skies overnight facilities for caravans and motor- native bush and between two cliff faces, enjoy above Tongariro National Park and dine home travellers to stay and play. an evening stroll basking in the magic and above the clouds at The Pinnacles Restaurant. light of glowworms in their natural habitat. Take in 360 views on a glass-bottom gondola 2. FLY FISHING WITH ride as you traverse 1.8 km of this stunning BLAZING PADDLES 5. TAKE A HIKE TO TAMA LAKES UNESCO Dual World Heritage Site. Arrive at New Zealand’s highest restaurant located Fly fishing experiences for all levels and abil- A lesser known, but equally impressive alter- 2,020 m above sea level and enjoy a decadent ities, Blazing Paddles in Taumarunui is your native to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, the lunch buffet. one-stop shop for all things on the water. Take Tama Lakes hike is a 17 km return tramp that your pick from fly fishing tuition, local water starts at the Chateau Tongariro. This hidden 24 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

WHERE TO EAT • Breakfast with homemade baking at Thorn • L unch is on with sushi Fridays at the Powderkeg • Dinner with a view and a delicious menu at Kings • A ll-day dining at Schnapps Bar with mini-golf and mountain views WHERE TO STAY (*Pet-friendly) KiwiCamp at National Park* Taumarunui Holiday Park* Raetihi Holiday Park* Top 10 Holiday Park Ohakune* Pipiriki Camping Grounds* Whakapapa Holiday Park Plan your trip at www.visitruapehu.com Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 25

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Wellington to Whanganui ROAD TRIP 41.2924° S, 174.7787°E to 39°55′59″ S, 175°03′00E Beach by Beach 1. Pukerua Bay from the hilltop looking north along State Highway One 2. The Lost Jandal at Paekākāriki Beach was once a business but is now just a residence The beaches of the North Island’s West Coast from Wellington to Whanganui range from the manicured to the windswept. They host retirees and recreation seekers, and their appeal ranges from the calm and beautiful to the natural and rugged. Wind is a constant feature. John Bishop visited every beach on his journey. 1 Story + Photos John Bishop 2 the houses date from the 1960s, a time when O n a wet, warm and windy November the settlement expanded from a few places on places to rest or stay. With our age and fitness morning my wife and I set off from the beach to a sizeable settlement on both sides level we decided it was not for us, it is a pop- Wellington heading for Whanganui of the main highway. Pukerua Bay’s existence is ular walk for those fitter than us. intending to stop at all the beaches along marked by a small clutch of shops on the main the North Island’s west coast along the way. road; a hairdresser, a general store and the latest “Morena” said the lady in the Paekākāriki edition, a set of public toilets. Deli, one of two places serving coffee – but We choose to stay at holiday parks, partly the only one with customers, which settled because we hadn’t done so for many years and Driving down to the beach we see two riders who got our business. (They served a great partly because we’d heard they had become on trailbikes approaching and the wind begins date scone.) a bit trendy since Covid-19 restrictions were to howl, recalling the Bob Dylan song. At shore lifted enough for Kiwis to travel domestically. level this is a rugged beach landscape, and those The township is right by the railway lines. We weren’t disappointed with that experience. who live in the 35 houses along the beach road Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 27 must do so because they like it. Fishing other The best beaches on our route are well than by handlines is banned according to the known; Raumati, Paraparaumu, Waikanae, sign posted in English, Samoan and Tongan. Ōtaki, Foxton, Himatangi all attract day trip- pers, campers, and caravaners. People from Paekākāriki means the perching place of Wellington, Palmerston North, the Manawatu the kākāriki or green parrot, but in my youth and the Wairarapa variously have holiday we used to say, ‘where the girls are cheeky’. We homes or attachments to caravans at all of cross the railway line into the small township. these places. This is the gateway to the Paekākāriki escarp- ment, a long and windy trek up and along the We also wanted to see the many other inter- hills, high above the sea. I note the warning that esting nooks and crannies less visited, many of there are no toilets, no water and no suitable which we hadn’t been to previously. First stop was Pukerua Bay, where most of

3 1920s. People still commute to Wellington attractive to me as a swimming place; not As the crossing bells ring, barrier arms go every day from here; perfectly possible as long enough sand and quite exposed compared to down and approaching trains make their as you get up early enough. For a while in its more developed and classier neighbours own warning noises. There is a general store, the early 2000s it was fashionable to live here, further up the coast. a good looking fruit and veggie shop, a hair- and along the beachfront the houses are solid dresser and what used to be a garage with a and permanent. The beach has never looked Raumati, Paraparaumu and Waikanae sign above the street saying it dated from the beaches are the dress circle of beaches for grooming, accessibility, size and services. All have a mixture of permanent residents – working in Wellington, the Hutt Valley and locally – and well-off retirees, particularly Waikanae, where there is a strong retirement community enjoying a beautiful area. As a child in the late 1950s I recall family get-togethers at Paraparaumu Beach on Boxing Day, cars in a line along the bush sep- arating the road from the beach. There were ham sandwiches and hardboiled eggs, lettuce leaves from a plastic bag, and tomatoes from my father’s glasshouse in a good year. Peka Peka Beach north of Waikanae is a nice beach and less populated than its broth- ers and sisters nearby. We went off the new State Highway 1 through a tangle of intersec- tions to Te Moana Road. This used to be just a simple turn to the left at the lights on the old SH1, before the traffic engineers made it more complicated. The temperature is a warm 19 degrees and the wind, so evident further south, has abated to a gentle zephyr, but the elderly cyclists we encounter on Peka Peka Beach say there was “a bit of breeze earlier”. “Now there’s a surprise”, I said to the grey- haired old lady. She just grinned, mounted up and rode away. She and her mate looked fit and wrinkly at the same time, a feat I have never attempted nor am ever likely to. A bit further north, Te Horo has a large number of settled houses in a tranquil setting. The beach is scruffy and stony com- pared with Peka Peka, with driftwood and other detritus littering the beach. There is a boat access ramp and cars are permitted on the beach, which has a 20kph speed limit. 3. The shops in the Paekakariki village date back to the 1920s 4. Paekakariki looking east down the main street to the hills 5. Te Horo beach boasts fine houses and lovely areas to sit 6. A mounting 4 block at Te Horo beach to help horse riders 28 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

56 Dogs off leash and horses are OK too, but no its outlet shops (Wellingtonians shop here for Pam and their big motorhome. I open the con- fires and no drinking after 9pm. (The ban lasts cheap underwear), and for being the point versation with a hearty “nice day for it”, and till dawn when it is presumably OK to have an where the traffic jams start during holiday Chas and I fall to talking about the attractions eye opener with one’s morning coffee.) weekends or when there’s been an accident. of a motorhome. They are from Whanganui and have had the motorhome for a few years, My memories of Ōtaki Beach and its motor We looked carefully through the town and but “we didn’t use it much and thought we camp are a bit mixed. We once stayed there as the beach and lunched delightfully at the should get out in it more often”, Chas tells me. a family for a short period in summer – at the Feathers café at the motor camp on locally time we had a near-death relative and didn’t caught whitebait, available in abundance, At the beach a local tells me only about wish to be too far away from Wellington. served in a sandwich with some salad. Just $12 30 per  cent of the houses are permanently and ample for lunch. occupied, mainly by retirees. She loves it Ōtaki Beach is 4km from the main road here because the beach is not “manicured”. and Ōtaki township itself, known locally for On the beach front we run into Chas and Where sunshine is par for the course whakatane.com Ōhope International Golf Club Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 29

78 In storms, she says, huge waves crash into the plenty of beach to walk along, and a feature is close. Pip is not savage, she explains, just a bit estuary and the waters can go purple. the remains of the wreck of the Hydrabad, a stinky. On the beach a plumpish woman is exer- Hokio Beach is another estuary beach, with a cargo and passenger sailing ship which was cising her puppy by driving her SUV down the bumpy, potholed dirt track leading from the tar wrecked off the coast in 1878, with no lives beach and letting the dog run alongside, but she seal ito the beach itself. There is little bush here, lost, after the captain deliberately ran the ship drives too fast and the poor puppy can’t keep but a long stroll across the estuary brings you to aground. Various salvage attempts failed and pace. I look away; what looked like an inno- the beach and the waves. Suitable only for those the wreck was left to deteriorate on the shore- vative way to exercise is really just a laziness seeking the unspoiled natural look. line. Work is afoot to create a memorial using verging on cruelty. Some owners don’t deserve Waitārere Beach is a much more sizeable some or all of the remains. their pet’s love. enterprise all round. There is a good motor Five in the afternoon is a popular time for TechnolocgyamNepw, ZaelailqaundoLrtdst_oNr6e-1a0n4d6HaNd-BoamttearyinT,ecahnndoloagFy oNuewr ZealadndogLtdw2a3l/k1e1/r2s0.1T7 h0e9:4o3wPnaegre o1 f Pip, which looks Our first night’s stay was at the Himatangi N6-1046HNEW ZEASqLuAaNreDstore with a café behind it. Visitors have Comlpikaenya pBaetdteigryreTeecmhnoonloggryelN, ZteLltlds me not to get too Holiday Park, run by Reuben and Alice Emery. They are living their dream of being at a beach, OVERNMENT N5-1046HN FAO John ARBOOK <[email protected]> (artwork in-house) 18 Sales Contact: Drew Kosie Area of Operation: NATIONAL LiFePO4 batteries have UP TO 5 times the battery cycle life over Lead-Acid. This is the real secret to LthiFeemP. OTh4eby aatrteersioesmhuacvhemUoPreTROEL10IABtiLmEetshan LeadB-Aecniedf.itIst means that you can install them in the bowtehles boaf tatecrryuicsyecrleanldifefoorvgeetr aLbeoaudt-Athceimd.. Or upgrad•e Ttootabl caotstteorfylifeptiomwe eowr nsetrashnipdbis,yinofancty, our Solar Power This isinthsetarlelaatliosne.cTrheetsteo atrheemstr. aTihgehyt faorreward replascuebmstaenntiatllyforerdmucoeds.t lead acid batteries. so much more RELIABLE than Lead- • LiFePO4 batteries will deliver TWICE as much current BATTERY SPECIALISTSaAinbctoidhue.tIbtthomewemea.lnsOsortfhuaaptcgryruaoiduseecrtaoannbidn•amLstf•uitotFcTaeehoriPlrntgclaOyufelt4archptrcboeteaons, ttmtswtuoeubrfneisdleritesfaernwtltioimilaal elddlyeoa•lwrsievuuwLnadeiepnFiurLlrdelctsTeoaePehaWlrOdsifdpuloI.o-4ClAilatEsbaccd,kaiaadaetpstseaaarcfiieaLtysrehawindige-nhiAgoehcrtitidcmahebeaqo!ruugiteva1c/l2euanrsrte.mnImtuspcohoyratosaunetaqlyrue,itvbhaaelecynkt standby on your Solar Poweerquiinvaslteantl.laImtpioornta.ntly, they wLielal da-lsAocitdakinestaallations. This weight saving can improve 1 0 0 A H … $ 8 7 2 . 0 0Wbauunnahetidiqtsgeeuuhrresyp•ltpepaaSovonnTfersddUotlihitmnofPiraogfeuunPelwmlstlttLeiohpdeYciloistcearphogasbe•cnprctrhaouCiefenstylsmtdOeitcsusihNcsas&eta.SidrlchnaUoatrvhaiLreeegTccAhtiTdtIOfboNartw•teBarAridTeTsrfEm.eaRru•pTYchLhlhi•iiagMFsLahceiwsAePFerteNeeOomiqPc4AghfuvOhGubeeai4tvlahrElnasgtbicMlctaetaeealvtneEcrpitintueaNepgrrLcseTrieierectwafsnyaoedntdrii-nmgsAoimohcnan••tionpyodacroNbLhttobieuiiyonFopvmo.daesaerueretoPtrotbxa!eodOgt1lourelbe4/aacvra4nttneebciaohaogaklrsniatcstusselape..rfiepetseyrdrfeoolranmyoaitsPnpncOreeoWe.dduEecRdeT. dEaCnHgeOroFusE(UeRxpOloPsEive) 1 2 0 A H … $ 1 0 3 4 . 2 8'We have electrochemical knowledge dangerous (explosive) hydrogen gas. 18Ahto understand your battery 100Ah• No external safety relay is needed. 200AH…$1650.00 & electrical knowledge to Brands we represent include: understand itsSdButy2.'202 • Sonnenschien • Vertex SB2203 • Endurant • Exide •••B•FVBRSuiosAlsilorciiNnhvleiDrcSoWn•••E•OTCRredLonEyjasteuPnsreyRay EdS ENT INCLU D E: • Sonnenschien • Endurant • Fullriver Crystal • Bosch ••PVowiesrsoionicn •• YPuaosawersonic • Vertex • Exide • Century • Odyssey • Trojan • Yuasa bwawtwte.braytdteirryedcirte.ccto.c.on.nzz 3000 BATTERIES LISTED – WE HAVE WHAT YOU NEED! Contact John Dale on 0800 128 658 (0800 12 Volt) | Email: [email protected] C o n t a c t J o h n D a l e o n 0 8 0 0 1 2 8 6 5 8 ( 0 8 0 0Battery Technology New Zealand Ltd | Whangaparaoa | PO Box 907 | Whangaparaoa | 0943 1 2 Vo l t ) E m a i l : s a l e s @ b a t t e r yd i re c t . c o . n z Battery Technology New Zealand Ltd | Whangaparaoa, PO Box 907, Whangaparaoa 0943 30 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

9 10 7. Otaki Beach with Kapiti Island and home all day together with their school age Inn, you get the picture. as a backdrop 8. It’s a long flat children able to play with friends in the spa- walk across the estuary from cious grounds. Turakina is where the road running from the road to the beach at Hokio SH1 through Marton joins SH3 heading for Beach 9. Himatangi beach 10. The park has accommodation options New Plymouth. Inside a wonderful antiques Reuben and Alice Emery run the ranging from unserviced cabins through to and curio shop is a lovely café with great Himatangi Beach Holiday Park self-contained units which is where we stayed homemade food. I remembered my mother’s 11-12. Laugh Inn - one of many – very comfortably too. The place doesn’t have a advice in such places; look with your eyes and signs playing on the Inn theme pool but there is a water feature in the sandpit, a don’t touch. There was a lot to tempt us, but at Scott’s Ferry south west of trampoline, a book exchange and a games room. we left without a purchase or breakage thank- Bulls. Hev Inn - one of many fully, mum would be pleased. signs playing on the Inn theme at Moana Roa Beach is reached by heading Scott’s Ferry south west of Bulls south-west from Bulls to the coast. The beach Whanganui is one of New Zealand’s oldest 13. A family trying to have fun at is scruffy and windswept, but has some regener- cities, and today services a population of just Castlecliff Beach in Whanganui ating wetland. It’s a 300m walk from the carpark over 40,000 people. The history shows with and yes it was a summer day area over the high dunes to the beach itself, the heritage buildings in the main street of although the sandy track is navigable by car. town, and houses around the city. Castlecliff at the end of Morgan Street looks out to the is the old port area just out of the town, active city and the river flowing into the sea. You There are houses back up the road a bit. In when Whanganui was a blustering centre of can swim there, but it’s rocky, unpatrolled and 2004 floods swept through the settlement when commerce taking cargo from farmers along dangerous. The real beach is a few kilome- a stopbank on the Manawatu River collapsed. the river out to other parts of New Zealand tres along the way and is a proper settlement The ‘mayor’ of Scott’s Ferry, a bloke called Bill and to the world. Now the river is silted up, with a great café called the Citadel where we Grey, started a movement to use the word ‘inn’ and most trade has gone elsewhere. lunched. The beach is long and has a surf for all the houses along the road. Among others lifesaving club at one end. Adjacent is the there are Retire Inn, Nicks Inn, Back Inn. Hev There are two beaches at Castlecliff. One Duncan pavilion, nicely set back from the beach, and named after one of the pioneer families in the area, whose lives and history are on display at the Regional Museum back in the city. We had two nights in Whanganui at Ben Kay and Jeannie Marshall’s Holiday Park, which backs picturesquely onto the river. It’s sunny, warm and comfortable in our ser- viced unit, looking out onto the main playing area for the kids. There’s a pool – because it’s fair trek to the beach – and plenty of pedal bikes and the like. Also a sizeable aviary with parakeets, love birds and others. 11 12 13 Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 31

14 On our way home we stopped at the Foxton Beach Holiday Park run by Uwe Kroll. We wanted to see the town and its windmill and to get a good look at its beach. The camp is adjacent to renowned wetlands and has good family-oriented facilities. Our motel style unit met all our needs. Uwe is proud of being the first zero-carbon-accredited holiday park and is a living-wage employer. The town has a working windmill, de Molen, reflecting its Dutch heritage also sells Dutch goods and, of course, specialty flours milled on the premises. Open daily and tours are available. John travelled with support from the Holiday Parks Association 14. The Duncan pavilion at Castlecliff beach outside 15 Whanganui 15. The Dutch windmill in the Foxton township, which is still operating 16. Foxton from the tower of de Molen, the local windmill 16 32 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

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Taupō Bay › Northland EVENT 34 59’42.64S 173 44’43E Tractor Spectacular Fun in the sun for the Taupō Bay workhorses Story Sheryl Bainbridge Photos Neill Bainbridge 1 A s a holiday destination, or as home to the 2 1. Clowning Around small resident population, Taupō Bay is an inch of their lives have gathered together – winner of the best a place to live the Kiwi dream – sand, at the end of December to parade slowly team effort award surf, off-shore islands and bush-clad through the streets of the small community. 2. Taupō Bay hills. But what it doesn’t have for those keen Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 35 on fishing or water sports, is a boat ramp. “It’s become fairly competitive”, says Here’s where the tractors come in – hauling Michael. “Families compete against each boats in and out of the water from the beach other, but what’s nice about it is that within when weather and tides align. While some of families everyone from grandad to small them are retired farm tractors, others have been specially acquired to do the job. “Tractors are part of the fabric of Taupō Bay”, says Michael Jones, whose family organ- ises the annual tractor spectacular event each December. Michael’s family have owned a bach at the bay for 50 years, and Michael himself has been spending time here for the past 25 years. “We saw a little tractor parade in Rothesay, Scotland, where farmers had meticulously restored their tractors, and thought that this could work at Taupō Bay”, he explained. So, for the past seven years, between 22 and 35 tractors, decorated within

3 children get involved in making their own competitors included Nonna’s Ark, the Ley- Categories include best decorated, best team float. Past themes have included Star Trek land named Clowning Around – “every day’s effort, best pre- and post-1970s tractor and and Gloriavale. We do the organising and a circus” – and the Political Beast featuring a most loved, as well as some spot prizes. Bren- provide prizes, but we want to keep the event mini-Jacinda and Judith. don Clifford’s entries had received numerous completely free, fun and community based. accolades in the past, and this year his 1949 Duelling water pistols are all part of the fun.” Twelve-year-old Kael Watson had con- Farmhall which featured spearfishing was structed his own entry from a balance board acknowledged with a special award. We came across Aaron Mason preparing with an attachment covered by a large card- his family’s 2015 Luzhong 954 for the parade. board box painted in John Deere colours. Altogether 26 tractors took part in the 2020 “It’s an import, so it’s had to be in isolation”, Wearing overalls and a straw hat, he really parade; a huge effort from a small community. said Aaron, explaining the masks that both he looked the part of the quintessential farmer, It will be interesting to see how the year ahead and the tractor were adorned with. with John Denver’s Take Me Home, Country is reflected in 2021. Roads blaring out from some mysterious When Kim from the Kath & Kim float place under the bonnet. fudged a gear-change, she had my sympathy briefly, but Kimmie turned out to be Timmie, The parade, which begins at 5pm lasts and without further incident, Tim and Una for about an hour, after which prizegiving (Kath) Brandon joined the parade. Other takes place, followed by a free sausage sizzle. 3. Preparations are under 4 5 way for a grand parade 4. A day in the life of the everyday tractor 5. Mask wearing tractor 6. Political Beast – spot the mini-Jacinda and Judith 36 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

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Abel Tasman Coastal Track › Tasman › Abel Tasman WALK & CYCLE TRAILS A Great Walk A Coastal Trickery 1 Gary maps the Abel Tasman Coastal Track and loves how this gentle track explores the rocky headlands and sandy bays along the coastline. Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1. A meandering stream feeds into Waiharakeke Bay 2. The trail coming off the highest track point into Wainui Bay 2 Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 39

3 to collect data for the new Great Hikes App country’s most popular Great Walk. so as to be ready to launch before Christmas. I start my trip near Takaka in Golden Bay. I t looks easy in the brochure … a mild climate Thus, being short on time, I planned to walk and a medium-length coastal walkway the track in winter, skip huts where I could, Many visitors never see the northern section without mountain passes. For most trampers take every side track, and with limited off- of the Abel Tasman because their kayak trip on this journey, the track would include season road and water taxi services I would typically ends at Tōtaranui, and for hikers it’s hot sunshine, swimming and sightseeing walk the length of the track twice. This is my the last beach north for pickups by most water while walking through the forest of the Abel unconventional style of adventure on the taxis. I reach the northern gateway of Wainui Tasman National Park. However, it’s a different on a fresh and clear morning ready to climb proposition if you cast your eye over my brief; the highest part of the track. The carpark is empty, I put on my day pack and pass under 4 the ornately carved entranceway to begin 40 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021 climbing above the inlet. I’m enjoying the cool air as I puff away following the snaking track into gullies and slivering around spurs. While it’s no mountain pass it is great to even- tually drop down through the forest to reach the Whariwharangi Hut. The appearance of this structure is more like that of a cute old cottage than a back-country hut and it’s one of the most fascinating I have visited. The 1896 stockman’s homestead, while a little gloomy inside, would be a memorable overnight stay for any visitor. There are several small rooms with rough-sawn wall linings and rusting farming implements outside. It’s as if the drover has just stepped out to herd some cattle, leaving his home vacant for weary walkers. I do not hang up my boots here but continue along mapping my way as I go. The track weaves in and out of bays, the largest being DOC’s popular Tōtaranui camp- site. This is a vast site, with large grass lawns dotted with trees for shelter, on the edge of

5 67 a mile-long beach of golden sands. It is easy first campsite. Here I take a GPS waypoint, 3. The view above Tōtaranui Beach, to see why kiwis flock here in summer – it’s note the range of facilities and photograph a mile-long golden crescent of sand one of the most quintessential holiday parks the shelter and grassed lawns. This is one of 4. The beautiful stretch of sandy in the country. I head on a little further before eight campsites that I will record today. The walking along Goat Bay I backtrack. On returning, I take an excur- track continues to follow the coastline and 5. Whariwharangi Hut is a historic sion to Separation Point, so named by French through the leafy canopy offering glimpses gem for overnighters explorer Dumont d’Urville because of how of the sandy bays and next headland. It’s a 6. A sunbathing seal at Separation the headland divides Golden and Tasman big day of walking with a full pack. To visit Point Bays. The ridgeline track runs perilously close each campsite I drop off the main track for 7. Fooled by the decoy gannets at to the cliff edge before I reach a small look- 100 vertical metres down to the shore and Separation Point out over the point. The sound of birdlife here it soon starts taking a toll on my blistering 8. Overlooking the upper reaches of is deafening. The raucous clamor is from a feet. Each campsite is unique, each with a Tōtaranui estuary colony of gannets far below. From my perch sandy retreat and each an idyllic spot to set up on the cliff I can see several sitting on their up camp, whether one’s plodding or paddling. Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 41 nests. My camera snaps a series of photos of the colony which is majestic, noisy and yet 8 eerily still. I see a rough track down the bank so I scramble carefully to get a closer look. As the track flattens out I raise my head and real- ise I have been fooled. These birds are in fact full-sized decoy gannets with a loudspeaker – got me! Appropriately I have been gulled. Later I read how this site is one of the many Project Janszoon efforts aiming to bring in wildlife and restore the park. Feeling a little tricked I lay on a rock and watch real fur seals also basking on rocks in the weak warmth of winter’s sunshine. My eyes look north to the near-endless arc of Farewell Point with wild- life both natural and artificial surrounding me. The next day I swap my day bag for a tramp- ing pack and I drive around to Mārahau – the southern gateway of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track. Passing through another carved entrance I cross a boardwalk over an estuary and enter the park from the opposite end to the one I was at yesterday. The track starts by meandering along the forested shoreline and it doesn’t take long before I reach the

9 10 Soon I reach an exposed ridgeline that looks dorms – a winter’s blessing on this popular rock is a bit like a river spa bath. It’s winter out to where I have come from and also to summer track. – I didn’t get in. On leaving the waterhole I where I am going … the Anchorage. The track wonder whether Cleopatra would approve of immediately turns, drops down through the The next day starts cold and clear, and the this forested rock bath compared to the open, scrub to a beach and along to the large and slippery deck ice is the first obstacle to nego- dark waters of the Nile. As I reach Torrent modern Anchorage Hut. On entering the tiate on leaving the hut. I soon warm up as I Bay I pass a community of holiday homes, dining room it is hard not to stare out for a climb out of the bay and overlook the mudflats some of which look more like a collection of time through the largest of glass panels with at dead low tide. Most hikers pick low tide to forest lodges than simple coastal shelters. It views of moored yachts. I eat dinner with the cross the shallows of Torrent Bay Inlet taking would be an incredible place to drop anchor daylight’s fading glow and a cooling lounge. only minutes; however, I am here to map the from the city and retreat to one’s isolated The few of us who reached the hut each take entire track so walk the extra 3km taking an home overlooking the bay. Leaving the bay a turn to start the fire with damp wood, and hour more around the edge of the estuary. I head inland for a time before I pass Med- on failing turn in early to each of our own One of the highlights of going the long way lands Beach and up an estuary to Bark Bay is a visit to Cleopatra’s Pool. The slot in the 42 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

11 12 Hut. While the hut is adequate, if I was car- more beautiful. If camping on the sandspit along the golden sands back into the forest. rying a tent I would camp. The sites are on the at Bark Bay is appealing then the turquoise After passing over a low saddle the trail mean- sandspit and I can only imagine the summer sun-drenched waters and broad arc of Oneta- ders down to Awaroa Inlet. It’s been a big day outlook from my vestibule, cooling off in the huti Bay that overlooks Tonga Island Marine exploring and mapping but it is not over yet. sea, and sitting on the beach while enjoying Reserve is perfection. I arrive at the beach The sun starts to set, and as I reach the hut it the thirst-quenching juice squeezed from campsite with a forest backdrop just as a looks like I will have more company tonight fruit off the two lemon trees at the campsite. German woman has set up camp. Her tent based on numerous boots stacked outside. I door opens to gently breaking waves and her open the door and a couple of families wel- My time at the hut is sufficient to collect couple of nights here would be camping bliss. come me, the hut is toasty and the evening is some data before taking lunch on the run to Saying auf wiedersehen I continue the walk filled with lively chatter of today’s adventures. reach the next bay. It seems that bays just get Morning breaks and my hut companions are up early and about to start the larg- est of the track’s tidal crossings. That is, all except me. Sitting in the hut I watch them follow the markers set into the estuary for a 14 9. Winding through the forest to the next scenic bay 10. The Anchorage Hut has one of the best coastal views of a back-country hut 11. Overlooking the Anchorage – an idyllic retreat 12. Trampers crossing the Torrent Bay Inlet at low tide 13. Camping up on the beach at Onetahuti Bay 14. Medlands Beach 13 looks like a tropical oasis walko, ndisycoouvrerp,rrievlaatxe wsaitihlinfgamcialytam&arfarnie!nds TRY SOMETHING NEW! Private holidays for up to 8 people or Join with others on a day sailing tour. Walk the Park & sleep in comfort & style, enjoy a great meal & chilled wine. For schduled tours and bookings go online or call us today! 0800 467245 www.SailingAdventures.co.nz 0800 GO SAIL Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 43

1km stretch; there is no alternative high tide overnighting opportunities. Which other track PROFILE: A GREAT WALK track option here. Their shapes soon shrink can boast 18 campsites and four huts scattered to become stickmen in the orange dawn light. along a corrugated coastline? If DOC Huts or Cartographer and trail designer Gary Some members pause for minutes trying to camping are not for you the Wilson family Patterson has mapped his way around the find a shallower channel or less shelly way for have Lodge based ‘civilised’ adventures of 3 globe from subantarctic islands to back- their exposed feet while others trod quickly, and 5 days - walking and or sea kayaking along country bike trails on almost every continent. directly and deeply across. Some time passes this unique coastline. The track offers plenty He returned home for an epic adventure: riding before the last of the group reach the opposite of options of how to experience it too, with all 22 NZ Cycle Trails Great Rides to create the bank that leads to Tōtaranui that I mapped vehicle access to a few trail sections, water taxi free Great Rides App. Recently he mapped all only days before. I need not cross though as I access to many bays and of course the ability the NZ Great Walks to create the Great Hikes have booked a mid-morning water taxi pickup to mix in kayaking as part of the journey. The App freely downloaded from the app stores. at nearby Awaroa Beach. I make my way to the ability to walk the track all year is a real bonus Follow Gary’s travels to inspire, plan and guide pickup. It’s a scenic white sand bay that was compared to some that I have been trying to you on your own journey. recently famed by the crowdfunding ‘Givealit- walk that are currently hazardous due to ava- tle’ campaign; it gained huge public interest lanche conditions. Just as the Otago Central Great Hikes App: App Store or Play Store and is now publicly secured for perpetuity. It’s Rail Trail is suitable for families of cyclists, an incredible spot now available to all. Well the Abel Tasman is suitable for a wide range done New Zealand! of walking abilities, as my hut-mates proved. Despite walking the length of the track twice I arrive early at the pickup point, keen to get which meant twice the number of blisters, back to civilisation. Looking across the waters, I had an enjoyable time and if I return in I reflect on the last few days of great walking. summer I will leave my down jacket at home It’s a Great Walk like no other. As its name sug- and bathe like royalty in Cleopatra’s Pool. gests it is a coastal experience and has plenty of For an even greater escape. Call Tamar or Tony on 0800 101 879 or visit An inflatable boat lets you cut-loose and enjoy life in a whole new way. Easy to store and deploy, sturdy rockboatmarine.co.nz and safe they’ll add an extra dimension to your next adventure, holiday, or getaway. 44 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021

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autumn adventures in selwyn Settled warm autumn days are the perfect time to discover Selwyn. Take a romantic early morning hot air balloon ride over farmlands. Feel the thrill of speeding through mountain fed rivers on an all American Airboat (the only one in New Zealand). Or find your target learning archery amongst the trees near the Rakaia Gorge. Alpine Airboats Ballooning Canterbury Newzengland Clay Shooting and Archery 20 minutes from Christchurch 45 minutes from Christchurch Experience the sensation of skimming A magical experience offering panoramic 1 hour from Christchurch over wet stones in a genuine all views across the Canterbury Plains to Nestled in the tranquillity of pine forest American style Airboat. the Southern Alps. on the edge of the Rakaia Gorge, ballooningcanterbury.com catering for all experience levels. alpinejetthrills.com newzengland.co.nz Visit selwyn.nz for further information and location details. Follow Selwyn NZ Share @selwyn.nz

Christchurch to Dunedin ROAD TRIP 43.5320° S, 172.6306°  To 45.8178° S, 170.6188° E STRAIGHT AS A BENT ARROW Allan Dick drives from Christchurch to Dunedin via SH1 and discovers it’s far from a boring drive on arrow-straight roads with nothing to see. Story + Photos Allan Dick 1 2 Mar-Apr 2021 Vol 9 47

3 Exiting Christchurch and heading south Desert’, well described in a book by the late these days involves a totally new route with writer and politician John A Lee. Before it O n leaving Christchurch, many visitors to the completion of a motorway that leads from became an Army base in 1923, Burnham the South Island follow the Inland Scenic the near eastern side of the city almost clear was a borstal and Lee, a reprobate as a lad, Route, through Methven, Tekapo, the down to Rolleston. You can, of course, still escaped from here and fled into the waste- Lindis Pass, etc. drawn by the magnet use the Great South Road which will take you lands of the desert. that is Queenstown at the other end. And then, through Templeton and the famous Cookie their return journey is made the same way, thus Time factory! Irrigation has transformed the Canterbury missing out on the secrets of the east coast of Plains. In fact it’s transformed much of the the lower half of the South Island. And that’s Once past Rolleston, one of the two satellite South Island where there are more low-rain- a pity. Let’s take a tour from Christchurch to towns that expanded rapidly after the earth- fall areas than many northerners will be Dunedin down SH1 with plenty of detours, quakes, it’s time to start putting on the brakes aware of. Where there once were stone stops and side trips. and turning right off SH1 for the first detour covered paddocks there are now ‘pivots’ – a quick drive around the perimeter of the drenching the lands, lush green grass and Some are put off by visions of driving across Burnham Military Camp. This is both home a mix of farming from cropping to cows to the Canterbury Plains over an endlessly long, and work place for 1300 personnel, making it sheep – and orchards. dead-straight road with nothing to see except the biggest military base in New Zealand. It’s flat paddocks. Not true. a huge place, with the base itself surrounded Shortly after Burnham you come to the by netting and razor wire fencing while to the first of several significant bridges crossing Christchurch itself is worth a day or two, if south is another area just as large which looks the braided rivers that flow into the Pacific only to explore the spectacular goings on in like a fifties state housing suburb for soldiers all the way from the Southern Alps. This one the centre where there are some breathtaking with families. There is no public access to the is the Selwyn River at Dunsandel, but you projects underway, and the rebuilding of the base, but it’s interesting to take the detour may see only a dry riverbed as for much of cathedral involves lots of men dangling in instead of just whizzing by on SH1. the year the water here flows underground! buckets many metres off the ground. While Once a small rural town, Dunsandel is today Christchurch is again a working city, the But, back on SH1 you are now on the edge a town for passing motorists with a couple of rebuild of the city is far from finished, but of what used to be called ‘The Trans-Rakaia decent cafés. when it is it will be one of the most modern cities in the world. 4 48 Vol 9 Mar-Apr 2021