Vogue_Singapore__November_2021

ISSUE TEN nov/dec Eternity

























CONTENTS 087 InVOGUE 032 EDITOR’S PICKS Invest in Vogue Singapore’s edit of instant heirlooms. 034 BEST FOOT FORWARD Get a leg up on the competition in this season’s leggings. 036 SHINING EXAMPLE Dial up the glitz and glamour in sparkly minidresses and high- shine accessories. 038 PUSH & PULL Transform the silhouette of your outfit to match your mood with a versatile drawstring dress. 040 TAKE COVER Play with proportions by pairing ponchos and capes with flared pants or an A-line skirt. 042 GRAPHIC DESIGN It’s a black and white issue: this colour combination is bold, elegant and perennially chic. 044 SECRET CODES 052 MAX EFFECT interprets the concept of strength Fashion designers have long been As Max Mara celebrates its within fragility through cerebral storytellers, but autumn/ platinum anniversary, styles from Alexander McQueen. winter 2021 was a reaffirmation of omnichannel retail director and their protagonists. Senior fashion brand ambassador Maria Giulia 066 MISS VOGUE writer Maya Menon explores the Prezioso Maramotti Germanetti The Witcher’s breakout star Anya identities of maison and wearer. reflects on the brand’s legacy. Chalotra opens up about mental health and self-care, her Indian 046 HEAT WAVE 054 NATURAL SELECTION heritage and, most importantly, With a mod-meets-punk line-up of Discover this year’s edition of her recipe for vegan naan. tweed miniskirt suits, fishnet Loewe’s Gifting collection inspired stockings, and leather fringing, by the whimsical patterns of BEAUTY Chanel’s resort 2022 collection is British architect and designer, sure to set temperatures soaring. Charles Francis Annesley Voysey. 076 SLOW BURN These limited-edition candles 050 SEEING DOUBLE 058 A NIGHT IN VENICE conjure up visions of snow-capped, Meet Marlin Yuson, the creative Following their Alta Moda pine-filled forests, and the director for Cartier leather goods 2021 show, designers Domenico sweetest treats of the season. and the brains behind the maison’s Dolce and Stefano Gabbana speak Smells like holiday spirit. latest bag: the Double C de Cartier. to Vogue Singapore about the coveted art of fatto a mano. 051 STAY NEUTRAL As more brands seek to take full 060 STRENGTH TO STRENGTH accountability for the refuse Creative consultant Mae Tan created in their supply chain, attaining waste-neutral status looks set to be the next frontier of sustainable fashion. 12







CONTENTS 124 077 ALYSSA GIBBS to modern-day icons that are going coloured gemstones make up the Affectionately known as Chi, this down in—and rewriting—history Gucci Hortus Deliciarum high designer, painter and musician with their innovation and virality, jewellery necklace. moved to Singapore with suitcases these beauty masterpieces full of colour—from kaleidoscopic reign supreme. 096 ICED GEMS palettes to traffic-stopping outfits. Full-pavé watches packing 086 MORE JOY megawatt sparkle are the 078 CHEEK & CHIC In an exclusive interview with obsession this season. A wash of colour, a hint of tint— former monk turned mindfulness nothing makes those apples on expert Jay Shetty, Meg Mistry 097 LUCKY IN LOVE your cheeks pop and glow quite unlocks the keys to obtaining Wearing the new Van Cleef & like a cream or liquid blush. more joy and how to find it in a Arpels Vintage Alhambra pendant hopeless place. in pink rhodonite? Lucky you. 079 THE IMAGINARY ODYSSEY Louis Vuitton’s Les Extraits 087 2046 098 ARTISTIC HARMONY collection encapsulates emotive Slick metallics, graphic brows Patek Philippe combines journeys dreamt up by masters in and make-up made for the watchmaking artistry with material and invisible forms. metaverse. Delve into beauty’s traditional métiers d’arts. brave new frontier with 080 FEVER DREAM photographer Liuwen. 100 MAD LOVE Dive into the sensuality of Richard Mille creates and explores textures as pigment and pay-off VITRINE bold concepts at every level for its deliver in a dramatic way with ladies collections. Byredo beauty’s evocative 094 TOP KNOTS autumn/winter 2021 collection. Diamond-encrusted ribbons 102 DAWN TO DUSK and bows for the ultimate ’Tis the season to be partying, so 084 OBJETS DE BEAUTY stocking stuffers. break out the baubles and dance From cult classics that have stood the night away. the test of time for their cosmetic 095 SWEET ESCAPE allure and efficacious formulas, A precious bouquet of candy- 16

Elegance is an attitude Chi Ling Lin Longines Boutiques Singapore The Longines The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, #B2M-219 Master Collection Wisma Atria, #02-01A discover more at www.longines.com

CONTENTS 116 LIFE 110 THE WANDERLUST EDIT Our luxury edit of all things travel- inspired, from the most inspiring reads to the most luxurious accessories to pack for your next holiday. 111 HEART TO HEART In an intimate interview, actress, artist and luxury influencer Heart Evangelista opens up about her struggle with mental health and how it changed her outlook towards herself. 114 ON THE GO Rimowa has added two clutches to its Personal collection—just what you need when you’re at work or play. 116 A PLACE OF ONE’S OWN CULTURE of her resolute, sophisticated Lawyer Paul Tan’s home is a personality and understanding of cauldron of contrasts, perfectly 171 VOGUE’S GUIDE TO contemporary architecture. balancing the past with the HOLIDAY HOSTING present, indoors with the outdoors Experts share their secrets to 186 ARTIST-IN-RESIDENCE —it’s a sanctuary he can retreat to throwing the most spectacular Botanical designer John Lim’s and be himself. home parties this festive season, creation brings forth his from planning a delectable spread interpretation of the concept of life ETERNITY to being an engaging host and the and death and how nature does life and soul of the party. the perfect juggle between 124 GEMMA transience and eternity. In Marvel’s new film, Eternals, 176 DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE Gemma Chan’s character Vogue celebrates the publication has a soft spot for humans— of celebrated photographer a quality that also runs Annie Leibovitz’s new book deeply through her, as deputy Wonderland by looking back at editor Amelia Chia discovers. some of her most iconic images. 136 COME JOIN US 180 LAKE EFFECT Lensed by Berlin-based Model Edie Campbell’s Tereza Mundilová, we explore the countryside retreat in idea of cult following in fashion Northamptonshire is a reflection through a series of hyper- individualistic styles and boundary-pushing mash-ups. 150 WILD STYLE Annie Leibovitz captures Sherry Shi, Anok Yai and Akon Changkou in this season’s most fashionable puffers and parkas amid Iceland’s stunningly untamed backdrops. 18







EDITORIAL PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST Editor-in-Chief Norman Tan Deputy Editor Amelia Chia Chief Executive Officer Roger Lynch Contributing Editor Sandhya Mahadevan Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, Digital Director Annabelle Fernandez Watches and Jewellery Editor Celine Yap U.S. Revenue Pamela Drucker Mann Chief Sub-Editor Jacqueline Danam Global Chief Content Officer Anna Wintour Senior Writer Chandreyee Ray President, Condé Nast Entertainment Agnes Chu Interns Emilie Cunnington and Isabella Lok Chief Financial Officer Jackie Marks FASHION Chief Marketing Officer Deirdre Findlay International Creative Fashion Director Daniela Paudice Chief People Officer Stan Duncan Fashion Director Desmond Lim Chief Communications Officer Danielle Carrig Senior Fashion Writer Maya Menon Chief of Staff Elizabeth Minshaw Stylist Jasmine Ashvinkumar Chief Product & Technology Officer Sanjay Bhakta BEAUTY Chief Data Officer Karthic Bala Beauty Director Alli Sim Chief Client Officer Jamie Jouning Beauty Editor Dana Koh Chief Content Operations Officer Christiane Mack ART CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD Art Director Michael Harrison Jonathan Newhouse Designer Vincent Loh WORLDWIDE EDITIONS France: AD, AD Collector, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS AND ILLUSTRATORS Amberly Valentine, Annie Leibovitz, BJ Pascual, Cher Him, Darren Gabriel Leow, Liuwen, Liz Collins, Paul Scala, Samantha Lek, Vogue Collections, Vogue Hommes Germany: AD, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, Vogue Sayher Heffernan, Simon Watson, Stefan Khoo, Studio Oooze, Tereza Mundilová, This Humid House, Timothy Schaumburg, India: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue Ward Ivan Rafik, Zantz Han Italy: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, Experience Is, GQ, La Cucina Italiana, L’Uomo Vogue, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired CONTRIBUTING WRITERS AND STYLISTS Damese Sadivan, Ellie Pithers, Fabio Immediato, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Kat Cruz-Villanueva, Konca Aykan, Luo Jingmei, Japan: GQ, Rumor Me, Vogue, Vogue Girl, Vogue Wedding, Wired Meg Mistry, Niel Dimirij, Xander Ang, Zhuan Lee Mexico and Latin America: AD Mexico and Latin America, MANAGEMENT Condé Nast College Américas Publisher Bettina von Schlippe Glamour Mexico and Latin America, GQ Mexico and Latin SALES America, Vogue Mexico and Latin America Sales Director Michelle Ong Sales Manager Shannon Tan Spain: AD, Condé Nast College Spain, Condé Nast Traveler, Campaign Manager Megha Choksi Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Niños, Vogue Novias MARKETING AND DIGITAL MARKETING Taiwan: GQ, Vogue Marketing Director Natasha Damodaran United Kingdom: London: HQ, Condé Nast College of Marketing Manager Ugena See Fashion and Design, Vogue Business; Regional Head of Digital Marketing Steven Khu Britain: Condé Nast Johansens, Condé Nast Traveller, DIGITAL AND CREATIVE PRODUCTION Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden, Tatler, SOMETHINGELSE DIGITAL STUDIO The World of Interiors, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired United States: Allure, Architectural Digest, Ars Technica, Group Digital Creative Producer Vanessa Caitlin basically, Bon Appétit, Clever, Condé Nast Traveler, Web Developer Mahesha Hoesain epicurious, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, healthyish, HIVE, La Cucina Italiana, LOVE, Pitchfork, Self, Teen Vogue, them., Videographer and 1st AD David Bay The New Yorker, The Scene, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired Digital Creative Hazirah Rahim Designer Melia Andriani PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE Brazil: Casa Vogue, Glamour, GQ, Vogue PRODUCTION Russia: AD, Glamour, Glamour Style Book, GQ, GQ Style, Group Production Director Anna Tsirelnikova Media Traffic and Client Services Coordinator Dao Thu Ha Tatler, Vogue PREPRESS PUBLISHED UNDER LICENCE OR COPYRIGHT Senior Reprographic Prepress Technician Ngo Thi Hong Phuong COOPERATION Reprographic Prepress Technician Bui Thi Lan Anh Australia: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Living Digital Imaging Graphic Assistant Nguyen Phan Anh Bulgaria: Glamour IT China: AD, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, GQ Lab, GQ Style, IT Manager Roger Valberg Vogue, Vogue Café Beijing, Vogue Film, Vogue+, Vogue Business in China ACCOUNTS AND ADMINISTRATION Czech Republic and Slovakia: Vogue Finance Manager HuiMin Fan (Count on Me Pte Ltd) Germany: GQ Bar Berlin CFO Antonio Scaramuzzino (Count on Me Pte Ltd) Greece: Vogue Hong Kong: Vogue, Vogue Man Account Receivables Hui Ying Soh Hungary: Glamour Editorial, Sales and Marketing Assistant & Office Manager Tetyana Babina Korea: Allure, GQ, Vogue, Wired Malaysia: Vogue Lounge Kuala Lumpur PRESIDENT Michael von Schlippe Middle East: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Riyadh, Wired Published by Media Publishares Pte Ltd (202016673N), MCI (P) 066/07/2021, ISSN 27374351 Poland: Glamour, Vogue 1 Syed Alwi Road, #02-02 Song Lin Building, Singapore 207628, Tel: (65) 6225 4045 Portugal: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Porto Romania: Glamour By permission of Condé Nast, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007, USA Scandinavia: Vogue Printer: KHL Printing Pte Ltd, 57 Loyang Drive, Singapore 508968 Serbia: La Cucina Italiana Singapore: Vogue The views expressed in the articles and materials published are not necessarily those of Media Publishares Pte Ltd (202016673N). While every reasonable care is taken in compiling the magazine, the publisher shall not be held liable for any omission, error or inaccuracy, South Africa: Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden Thailand: GQ, Vogue and accepts no responsibility for the content of advertisements published. Please notify the publisher in writing of any such omission, error or inaccuracy. Editorial contributors are welcome, but unsolicited materials are submitted at the sender’s risk and The Netherlands: Vogue, Vogue Living, Vogue Man Turkey: GQ, GQ Bar Bodrum, Vogue, V the publisher cannot accept any responsibility for loss or damage. All rights reserved by Media Publishares Pte Ltd (202016673N). ogue Restaurant Istanbul No part of this publication may be reproduced and/or transmitted in any form without the publisher’s permission in writing. Ukraine: Vogue, Vogue Man Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content with a footprint of more than 1 billion consumers in 32 markets. condenast.com

THE ONLINE FASHION AUTHORITY .sg

Editor’sLETTER That feeling when you’re in the ocean. No shore in sight. she wore a custom Prabal Gurung dress as a tribute to Anna Endless deep blue sea below you. Fading into darkness. May Wong, the first Chinese-American film star of Hollywood’s That sense of perspective on a night flight. Golden era. Chan is a seed growing from the detritus of giants. Staring out of the window above the clouds. The gentle And with a blockbuster Marvel movie, Eternals, hitting theatres curve of the Earth at the horizon. An infinite sky littered with this November, there was no better star to grace our November/ stars above. December ‘Eternity’ issue. As we close out 2021, the world finally opening up, and “What is finally sinking in is that representation shouldn’t families reuniting after two years apart, this holiday issue of Vogue be tokenistic. It’s not for the sake of it and it’s not box-ticking, but it is dedicated to ‘eternity’—a concept that is at once frightening and actually enhances storytelling and makes it more authentic,” she mesmerising. An idea so unfathomable, and yet so intrinsic, that says in our cover story shot by Liz Collins with styling by fellow we feel it in our very core. Bigger than us, yet within us. Vogue colleague, Konca Aykan. “Things have improved in many ways and quite rapidly, although I think there is a lot we need to For fashion director Desmond Lim, eternity gave birth to do to ensure this is not just a trend or a moment, but change that a fashion story exploring our universal need for connection, but lasts... whether you are talking about race, ethnicity, disability or grew and evolved into a shoot merged with our cult-like allegiance all kinds of groups that have been marginalised and not had the to fashion. Is fashion a religion? See ‘Come join us’ photographed chance to tell their own stories.” by Tereza Mundilová in Paris, starting on page 136. If it’s the end of the world, you might as well look fabulous on the way out. Here’s to telling stories that last. Here’s to diving into the deep end, to flying high, and to Speaking to the rest of the Vogue team about what we new seeds. wanted to say this issue, conversations kept coming back to this Enjoy the issue. idea of community. And with it, the unabashed celebration of life. Norman Tan So with that: Anya Chalotra, who returns to our devices Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Singapore this December in season two of Netflix’s hit show The Witcher, parades a covetable cavalcade of going-out dresses perfect for Gemma Chan wears Balenciaga Couture black embroidered bustier silk gown and black jersey festive get-togethers (turn to page 66); beauty director Alli Sim opera gloves with Boucheron Avant Le Frisson white gold necklace paved with diamonds. shows us how to up the ante with statement lips and holographic Get the look: eyes for the party season (see ‘Fever dream’ on page 80); watches Chanel Les Beiges Foundation, Les Beiges Water Fresh Tint in Medium, Baume Essentiel and jewellery editor Celine Yap, in partnership with stylist Xander Multi-use Glow Stick, Les Beiges Eyeshadow Palette in Warm, Signature de Chanel Intense Ang, brings you our favourite gems to dial up your evening looks Longwear Eyeliner Pen in Noir, Inimitable Waterproof Mascara in Noir, Stylo Sourcils (head to page 102); while deputy editor Amelia Chia with senior Waterproof Defining Longwear Eyebrow Pencil in Brun Profond, and Rouge Allure Velvet writer Chandreyee Ray curate the ultimate guide to hosting for the Luminous Matte Lip Colour in Libre holidays (read their feature beginning on page 171). Photographer LIZ COLLINS Stylist KONCA AYKAN But beyond our need to belong, eternity beckons the idea Make-up VAL GARLAND of legacy. Hair SHON JU For our artist-in-residence this issue, Singapore botanical designer John Lim from This Humid House, legacy intertwines the concepts of life and death. In his living botanic sculpture ‘Forms of Want’ created exclusively for Vogue (see page 28 and last page), Lim poses the question: how can we make something that is living last forever? Surely, as it must, part of the answer to that question lies in the common denominator of all living things: progeny. For the Asian diaspora, the understanding of legacy is especially intergenerational. It is the belief that we are not just what we leave behind, but how we respect and honour those who have come before. And, as such, the words ‘eternity’ and ‘legacy’ are often spoken in the same breath as ‘family’ and ‘responsibility’. “In Chinese and Asian cultures, you have that sense of responsibility to your ancestors and parents for all the sacrifices that they have made, so you don’t want to mess it up,” shares our cover star, Gemma Chan. “And I really feel that within the Asian community, there’s a lot of mutual support between actors, directors, writers for each other’s projects, whether we’re in them or not. That’s an amazing thing that I really love.” Having catapulted to global stardom playing Astrid Leong in Crazy Rich Asians, Chan has been a blazing beacon, and vocal advocate, for Asian representation in the entertainment industry—both on and off screen. For the Met Gala this year, 24



Image simulated. Flex mode supported at angle between 75° and 115°. The medium and amount of Single Take results may differ based on original capture. Dependent on 5G network supported and may vary for countries. SIM card upgrade and/or software update may be required. Data subscription fees apply.



Image simulated. Netflix streaming membership required. Pinch-to-zoom in order to enjoy Netflix contents full screen. Dependent on 5G network supported and may vary for countries. SIM card upgrade and/or software update may be required. Data subscription fees apply.





Image simulated. The S Pen Pro and S Pen Fold Edition are sold separately and they are only compatible with Galaxy Z Fold3 5G. The Galaxy Z Fold3 5G does not have a built in slot for the S Pen. Dependent on 5G network supported and may vary for countries. SIM card upgrade and/or software update may be required. Data subscription fees apply. Unfold your world

It is Lim’s belief that every artwork should continue to carry its past while staying grounded in the contemporary. 28

Photography HAZIRAH RAHIM Words ISABELLA LOK ARTISTin RESIDENCE Balancing vitality with history, botanical studio This Humid House intertwines concepts of life and death in its work as it answers the question: how can we make something that is living last forever? See its final work for Vogue Singapore on the last page. Rocks, moss and banana stems intertwine in This Humid House’s interpretation of transience and eternity. Architect John Lim’s accidental foray into botanical design began when he took a mental health break from his work. The founder of award-winning studio This Humid House continues to redefine boundaries and challenge the perception of what botanical design is and could be. Drawing inspiration from his surroundings and the history embedded in them, it is his belief that every artwork should continue to carry its past while staying grounded in the contemporary. In this piece for Vogue Singapore, this ethos extends to an exploration of how nature, in its transient and evanescent form, remains eternal and carries a sense of legacy. Working with rocks for this piece, he uses these forms of nature to bring across the sense of prehistory associated with them.

For strong women Enamoured by style Driven by purpose Subscribe now 8 print issues delivered to your door for $61

Photography TIMOTHY SCHAUMBURG Styling XANDER ANG Jil Sander shirt, $7,740, and skirt, $6,175; Givenchy earrings, price upon request; Sportmax shoes, price upon request In31–121

InVOGUE 2. 4. 1. 3. 7. 5. 6. Editor’s PICKS Invest in Vogue Singapore’s edit of modern heirlooms. Think contemporary classics, exceptional details and craftsmanship, and cult items with lasting appeal. Edit JASMINE ASHVINKUMAR 32

9. Trends 10. 14. 11. 8. 15. 13. 12. 1. Chloé dress, US$5,992 2. Monique Péan fossilised walrus ivory bracelet, US$17,890 3. Monique Péan pyritised dinosaur bone earrings, US$13,980 4. Tiffany & Co signet ring, $4,450 5. Patek Philippe Twenty~4 watch, $59,300 6. Hermès 3-in-1 Birkin bag, price upon request 7. Gabriela Hearst coat, US$8,990 8. Sophie Zamel Free-form Sequence earring, price upon request 9. Susan Siegel The Cypher necklace, US$2,350 10. Chanel AirPods garter belt bag, $3,710 11. Boucheron Quatre single clip-on earring, $4,510 12. Gucci Hourglass bag, price upon request 13. Givenchy jacket, $3,835 14. Cartier Tank Louis watch, $19,400 15. Dries Van Noten skirt, US$930 33

InVOGUE Trends Chanel necklace, $4,200 Fendi boots, $1,950 Celine by Hedi Slimane pumps, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello pantaboots, Gucci vest, price upon request price upon request US$4,250 34

THIS PAGE Gucci top and leggings, prices upon request; Givenchy necklace, price upon request; Christian Dior earrings, price upon request, and bracelet, $610 FACING PAGE Burberry bodysuit and leggings, prices upon request; Christian Dior earrings, price upon request, and bracelet, $610 Best Foot FORWARD Get a leg up on the competition in this season’s leggings, in a rainbow of patterns, prints and colours.

Shining EXAMPLE Dial up the glitz and glamour in sparkly minidresses and high- shine accessories. THIS PAGE Emilio Pucci dress and shorts, prices upon request; Jil Sander earrings, $548; Emporio Armani brooch, price upon request FACING PAGE Moschino dress, price upon request; Christian Dior bracelet, $610, earrings and necklace, prices upon request RIGHT: Versace, Valentino, Gucci

InVOGUE Trends Chanel bag, $16,020 Christian Louboutin pumps, $1,250 Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Valentino bag, $5,760 earrings, $2,430 37

InVOGUE Trends Gucci bracelet, price upon request Chanel lipstick holder, $4,810 Fendi bag, $3,100 Lanvin dress, $3,220 38

Push & PULL Transform the silhouette of your outfit to match your mood with a versatile drawstring dress. THIS PAGE Stella McCartney dress, price upon request; Dolce&Gabbana earrings, price upon request FACING PAGE Louis Vuitton dress, $10,010, and skirt, $3,960; Dolce&Gabbana necklace, price upon request; Jil Sander earrings, $548 LEFT: Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Take COVER Play with proportions by pairing ponchos and capes with flared pants or an A-line skirt. Alberta Ferretti coat, $2,784, pants, $907, and shoes, $1,110; Jil Sander earrings, $548; Christian Dior saddle bag, price upon request

InVOGUE Trends Max Mara top, skirt and poncho, prices upon request; Christian Dior ear piece, price upon request Fendi cape, $1,720 Valentino cape, $14,900 Louis Vuitton cape, $6,250 Alexander McQueen mini Curve bag, $1,480 Marc Jacobs parka, $1,730 41

InVOGUE Trends Givenchy dress, bag and earrings, prices upon request; Loewe pants, price upon request RIGHT: Balmain, Chanel, Chanel Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello jacket, $3,490 Lanvin sandals, $1,335 Gucci pants, price upon request Chanel bag, $5,230 42

Balenciaga dress, $3,600; shoes, $1,175 Hair, Kazue Deki/Calliste Agency; make-up, David Lenhard/Agence Saint Germain; model, HeeJung Park/Oui Management; photographer’s assistant, Kristina Weinhold and Soraya Sanini; stylist’s assistant, Francesca Riccardi; casting director, William Lhoest. Graphic DESIGN It’s a black and white issue: this colour combination is bold, elegant and perennially chic.

THIS PAGE From left: Gucci Aria; Comme des Garçons autumn/winter 2021; Gucci Aria FACING PAGE Clockwise from top: Comme des Garçons’ 1986 show in Japan; Catherine Deneuve wearing a quintessential Saint Laurent collared dress in Luis Buñuel’s Belle de Jour; Gucci’s 1981 spring collection Secret CODES Fashion designers have long been storytellers, but autumn/winter 2021 was a reaffirmation of their protagonists. In the spirit of heritage and legacy, one writer—fresh out of an identity crisis of her own—explores the identities of both maison and wearer. O Words MAYA MENON n my 28th birthday, I wasn’t thinking chests, playfully out-of-place lingerie and cut-out bodysuits—in a about cake. In the midst of an almost-30 blistering winter landscape. existential crisis I chose, instead, to be comforted by the faint memory of a factoid Saint Laurent collector, Wendy Long, has embodied this I had once read under a Snapple cap. It boldness in her own way. “To me, the quintessential Saint Laurent was the Austrian philosopher Rudolf woman portrays insouciance. She is a woman who is unapologetic about expressing her views and identity through fashion and is Steiner’s theory on the stages of life, in confident and secure of her choices. I don’t let the opinion of others which he states that your body completely influence my decisions.” She adds: “Saint Laurent’s pieces have regenerates itself every seven years. A cellular overhaul, if you will. acted as a canvas for me to present my personality. They allow me To me, this meant I was model 4.0 of myself. In my to personify my fashion identity.” hands lay the possibility of a new identity. The bric-a-brac of the In the exploration of fashion and identity, it is impossible previous version would make way for a new one—and as with to ignore the mastery of Rei Kawakubo. Wearing all black, ardent most variations of spring cleaning, my first plan of attack would Comme des Garçons fans have been dubbed ‘crows’—discerning be my closet. Thread by thread, I could work away failures and and non-conformist. This season the runway saw glimmers of this embarrassments. In their place would be a carefully curated self-assured risk-taker, with Victorian-inspired hats, gatherings persona: assured and bold. I could tell a new story. Or so I hoped. of tulle and cheeky slivers of white. For Comme des Garçons As transient or as lifelong as our identities may be, clothes enthusiast Parveen Hassanbhai, Kawakubo’s creations have have always been markers of them. They have certainly been a helped in fostering her style. “Comme des Garçons has shaped the marker of mine. In fashion journalist Charlie Porter’s book, What way I dress. It has given me a boost of confidence and has made me Artists Wear, he describes clothing as an unspoken language. “It is more certain in the way I present myself. I was dressing for myself a daily, even hourly, signalling of our beliefs, emotions, intentions. and wasn’t conforming to what society expected me to look like.” Much of it is intuitive: we sharpen up to impress; cocoon ourselves Driving nonconformism home is perhaps the chameleon when we’re feeling blue; make an effort on a date,” he shares. “But of all fashion houses. Gucci celebrates its centennial anniversary when we put on our clothes, we don’t fully acknowledge their this year, and the house’s journey from equestrian roots to pop loaded meaning. We just wear them.” culture favourite was prevalent in its Gucci Aria show. Its fans Porter’s sentiments might paint us as the raconteurs of have spanned glamazons such as Elizabeth Taylor and Grace our realities, but in the world of fashion, designers are often Kelly to inimitable individualists like Jared Leto and Zumi Rosow. storytellers too. And while the runways have always served as Yet what goes hand-in-hand with Alessandro Michele’s penchant a blank pad for them to pen their fantasies, this autumn/winter for staying on the pulse is an identity of a more ephemeral kind. 2021 season, more than most, the main character of each brand’s As Michele shared with Nicole Phelps of Vogue earlier this year: universe seemed to revel in their glory. “Young people look at the brand as a platform, a place. They What might a brand’s heritage, legacy and identity look visualise Gucci a million different ways, a million different times.” ARCHIVE IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES like on someone wearing it today? How might it enhance one’s Beneath the characters we present to the world, however, sense of self? Over the years, houses have formed ‘uniforms’ on is a canvas to own and be proud of. On mine, it’s that of a plus- the runways and beyond to foster identities. At Saint Laurent, sized, brown woman, navigating the beauty of clothes in her own, Anthony Vaccarello has stayed true to the woman who walks the special way. In my adolescence, I found confidence in oversized tightrope of demure and daring. Case in point: autumn/winter 2021 T-shirts; in my early 20s, I peacocked my love for Poiret and Prada. was a homage to Yves Saint Laurent’s friend and muse Catherine Today, I find meaning in getting dressed in the spirit of self-love Deneuve with Belle de Jour-esque tailor-made suits, translucent and gratitude—with ample faith in the woman I hope to be. stockings and sleek pumps. In the spirit of Belle, Vaccarello’s Because at the end of the day, what is fashion if not a vision is equally rebellious and risque: cardigans atop bare beautifully escapist fairy tale rooted in reality? 44