Winestate Magazine July August 2011

JULY/AUGUST 2011 WINESTATE VOL 34 ISSUE 4 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDECABERNET & BLENDS McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEU CLARE VALLEY UPPER NORTH ISLAND, NZ BETTER THAN BORDEAUX? SAILING WITH THE QUEEN Sommelier on the high seasPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 ASSAULT ON THE HAIL THE CAB! GREAT AUSSIE BLEND THE GRAPE WORLD’S GREAT TRAVELLER July/August 2011 Vol 34 Issue 4 387CABERNET $9.95 AUS (inc GST) & BLENDS NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $9.95 UKP/EUR 7.95 the prosecco PECKING ORDER China RMB100 plus Clare Valley McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu Tasmania Whiskies of the World Upper North Island (NZ)

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NO.242 JULY/AUGUST 2011Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Mike JaenschAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Steve Dean E-mail: [email protected] DAI RubiconWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Graeme Andrews,Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael CooperNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Reid, Sponsorship Consultant - [email protected], South Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaKym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandIndependent Magazine DistributorsInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2011 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 7

contentsJULY/AUGUST 2011FEATURES R E G U L A R S38 Fortunes rising for growers on 12 Briefs the Upper North Island Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper Times have been turbulent in 21 European Report with Sally Easton New Zealand’s third-largest wine Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley region, the Upper North Island, 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King but Mike Cooper casts an expert Wine History with Valmai Hankel eye over the scene and finds 24 Grapevine promising signs that the industry Wine Words is picking up momentum. 26 Subscription Form How We Judge40 Marketers’ varietal obsession 28 Wine Investment & Collecting pushes an icon into the background What’s it Worth? If it’s good enough for Grange, 64 Aftertaste why is the fine and subtle art of blending different varietals falling 70 by the marketing wayside? Greg Reid finds compelling reasons to 50 89 celebrate and give new impetus to the great Aussie red. 9744 Tasmanian couple find a brave 50 Sailing with the Queen on 98 way to blow the budget vintage voyages 104 Two years after sinking their dreams Canadian Kelley Schaefer regards 170 and dollars into a picturesque himself as a walking, talking wine list. vineyard at Tasmania’s Pipers River, Mark and Sarah Hirst can envisage The chief sommelier on Cunard’s luxury a bright future with their Leaning Church Vineyard label, as Mike cruise ship the Queen Mary 2 tells Mike Zekulich reports. Zekulich the unlikely story of his journey48 The grape world’s great traveller shows its strengths again to such an enviable position. In the aftermath of Winestate’s annual cabernet sauvignon tasting, 54 Clare Valley winery harnesses David Le Mire MW sings the praises of this mainstay varietal, and singles cutting-edge green technology out his six-pack of ‘winners’ of some interesting categories of his choice. Glendalough Estate in Clare’s Armagh Valley is laying claims to becoming South Australia’s most environmentally sustainable winery. Nigel Hopkins explains the estate’s innovations, such as a revolutionary water desalination system. 60 58 The rise and rise of a grassroots winemaker Matt Rechner never set out to be a winemaker - it just happened. But, as Greg Reid explains, from those 73 Whiskies of the World, New accidental beginnings he is forging a Releases and Top 40 Best Buys under $20. career at McLaren Vale on the back of his Ekhidna and Paper Eagle labels. 60 What’s what on the prosecco W I N E TAST I N G S pecking order 1 08 Merlot & Other Bordeaux Varietals Prosecco is enjoying a resurrection 112 Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends among Australian wine drinkers, so 1 28 Clare Valley & Surrounding Regions Giorgio Fragiacomo dips into this predominantly sparkling wine’s history, 136 McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek wades through its myriad versions and & Fleurieu offers his recommendations for what 150 Tasmania Italians love as an ‘aperitivo’. 156 Upper North Island, NZ Winestate Magazine 159 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases Issue Number 242 July/August 2011 Cover photograph © Orange Lane Studios.

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editorialBETTER THAN BORDEAUX?This is the question that all producers of cabernet sauvignonaround the world ask themselves. There is no doubt thatas an iconic brand the name Bordeaux has achieved greatheights in the minds of wine lovers everywhere. Even theblend of so-called Bordeaux blend varietals, merlot, cabernetfranc, petit verdot and malbec loom large when winemakerselsewhere consider putting together a package of wines thatwill knock off, or equal, the great wines from the old world. Although it is about competition, it is also with a measureof respect that “new world” winemakers try to emulate thebest reds of Bordeaux. There is no doubt that in blind tasting competitions not allBordeaux reds are great and quite often new world wineswill be rated higher. Away from the pixie dust of iconiclabels, where the French are superb at selling the image,whether it be perfume or champagne, results do differ andit makes for interesting comparisons. Certainly, vintage conditions in France are far more extreme than in the new world and despitethe effusive press, this needs to be taken into account. Australian and New Zealand winemakersregularly do a vintage in Bordeaux and the cross fertilisation of ideas (especially in the warmer years) isundoubtedly of value to all parties. With the recent trend to riper more alcoholic wines around the worldthis is also becoming significant, although some are also moving back to the leaner styles of the past. In our annual tasting of cabernet sauvignon and blends and merlot and blends we judged over 500wines, a significant number by any standards. We also included a dozen or so Bordeaux reds sourcedfrom local retailers. In this list we also lashed out and purchased the current vintage of the iconicChateaux Latour, Lafite and Mouton Rothschild wines and included them in the over $100 category. As I see it our task is not to tell you what you can afford, or even what you should buy, merely toassemble expert wine judges to taste these wines in various price categories to give you a guideas to what is worthy of further evaluation by you. In this sense we also made sure that on the finaltasting day, where the highest priced wines were to be judged (including the above mentionedicons), that the panel included two Masters of Wine and a chairman of judges with considerableBordeaux tasting experience. Their experience is beyond reproach and it makes for some veryinteresting results. Also in this issue we have the regional tastings of McLaren Vale and Clare Valley in South Australia,and Michael Cooper’s panel judging of Upper North Island in New Zealand. All in all some fascinating tastings; well worth raising our glasses for!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherJuly/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsRIESLING FESTIVAL’S BIG NAME TWEETS’ HUGE AUDIENCEJANCIS Robinson MW will be the special guest presenter at TWITTER wine tastings held in late March in the Hunter and Yarranext year’s Frankland Estate International Riesling Tasting. valleys with American social media expert Rick Bakas reportedlyBooking the well-respected and exceptionally busy English reached an astounding 2.8 million people. More than 4000 tweetswine commentator for the Sydney event is something of a were logged across the US and Australia, with customers at thecoup. With her in a presenting role will be fellow wine writer upmarket US wine and food chain, WholeFoods, believed to haveStuart Pigott, a riesling specialist and co-founder of the website contributed more than one million followers.www.weinhier.de. The two-day event on February 6 and 7 willlook at the history of riesling and feature a tasting of rieslings The tasting coincided with Rick’s trip to Australia to presentfrom around the world and in all styles from dry to sweet. the Wine Communicators of Australia annual lecture. His speechFor more information contact Frankland Estate on (08) 9855 1544 was provocatively entitled: ‘Not in Social Media in 2011. Not inor [email protected]. Business in 2016’. The former director of social media marketing at St Supery winery in the Napa Valley, he says the power of socialSCHILD SHIRAZ FURORE media helped him double St Supery wine sales in one year. His message to Australian wineries was clear: “The brands that haveAFTER being exposed by an American wine planted their seeds online and established a presence will growmagazine, a Barossa Valley producer has larger and larger. The brands that sit back and think of new mediaadmitted that it sourced more wine, not from its as a fad will be left behind. Way behind. In fact, they may be soown vineyards but from neighbouring producers, far behind that they’ll end up going out of business.”to make more of a label that was in great demand.Schild Estate said it did not intend to mislead CHINESE WINE MISSIONdrinkers when it bottled more of its 2008 Barossashiraz. It said it did so after the wine took off in sales WILL the Chinese wine market be the saviour of the Australian winein the US when it was named in The Wine Spectator industry? It looks that way, with yet another major and expensivemagazine’s 10 Ten Wines of 2010. initiative launched by Wine Australia to woo Chinese wine drinkers. In early April, 100 Chinese trade, media and educators were given Schild Estate’s actions were uncovered when The the red carpet treatment, touring 16 Australian wine regions. CalledWine Spectator was alerted to the extra bottling. the A+ Australian Wine: Vintage 2011 program, the tour coincided with vintage and was aimed at immersing the Chinese delegates, The company assured the magazine that the who came from 25 cities, in Australian wine, food and tourism.extra bottling would not be sold in the US. It saidthe wine, now labelled as a ‘second blend’ would Apparently the group is referred to in China as ‘Australia’s handonly be available in Australia. Industry figures and picked 100’, because they were chosen after undergoing ancommentators warned that the controversy could in-depth application and review process. In Australia, they areseverely damage not only the company’s reputation but also the referred to as ‘wine ambassadors in-waiting’. A lot will be ridinginternational reputation of the Australian wine industry. on them when they return to their homeland. a journey of discovery through Australian food and wine Restaurant Wine Bar Wine Store Wine Education Wine Odyssey Australia, 39-43 Argyle St, The Rocks, NSW 2000 Contact For Bookings: 02 8114 0256 or [email protected] W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

briefsCAMPBELLS’ DUAL MILESTONES AUSSIE’S QUAKE SCARECAMPBELLS Wines nearly didn’t celebrate its 140th birthday this year.Colin Campbell, who with older brother Malcolm runs the Rutherglen- AN AUSTRALIAN winebased winery, wasn’t sure whether 140 years was a significant enough importer, sommelier anddate! He was thinking the 150th might be considered more important - leading wine commentatorthat is, until family members talked him around. The winemaker admits in Japan has told of being into being sold on a major celebration when it was pointed out that this Tokyo when the devastatingyear was also the 40th anniversary of its top-selling shiraz, Bobbie March 11 earthquakeBurns. To commemorate both events, the Campbell brothers opened struck. Ned Goodwin MW,a selection of 40 years of the iconic red, including the very first bottle, who was living and workingthe 1970 vintage. It was also the family’s very last bottle of this wine. in Tokyo, said he was on his way to a tasting when the first “rumbling” began. “I was in a taxi. I felt the sort of camaraderie Campbells was founded by John Campbell, a Scot who arrived in with the elderly driver that only crises seem to allow. After beingRutherglen in 1860 at the height of Victoria’s gold rush. He worked on evacuated from the tasting following the second rumbling,one of the area’s richest gold leads, the Bobbie Burns, which history Goodwin and a friend started the long walk to the nearestclaims was named in honour of the Scottish poet Robert Burns. The transport hub, Shibuya. “The place was teeming with people,Campbells vineyard land adjoins the old Bobbie Burns lead, so the neither panicking nor pushing or shoving. Many were liningname is very much integral to the family, its history and the winery. for public phones.” Has Bobbie Burns changed all that much in 40 years? Despite four Ned now plans to divide his work between Japan and Australia.decades of innovation and change in winemaking and viticulture, it mustbe said that the style, a medium-bodied dry red with a soft finish, has TARANGA’S 170TH BIRTHDAYremained consistent throughout. And while the wines from the 1970sare now only beginning to tire, some more so than others, Bobbie Burns McLAREN Vale icon Oliver’s Taranga will mark 170 years ofshiraz made in the ’80s and ’90s are now hitting their straps. continuous family ownership, grapegrowing and winemaking in October. On each day leading up to the event, the winery will share something on its new blog, www.oliverstaranga. wordpress.com - maybe a picture from winemaker Corrina Wright or a snippet of information about one of the six generations of Olivers that have built the family business. Corrina says this year is definitely “something to make some noise about. As a sixth-generation Oliver, I’m so proud of what my great-great-great grandfather started, and I want to ensure that there is a prosperous future for generations to come,” she says. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsTAMAR’S NEW TOUR GUIDE SYDNEY’S LITTLE ITALYVISITORS to Tasmania’s major wine tourism region, the Tamar Valley, SYDNEY will have an Italian accent on August 21, when some of thecan expect an easier trip following the launch of the new Tamar harbour city’s best chefs, restaurateurs and provedores - known asValley Wine Route’s new website, www.tamarvalleywineroute.com.au, CIRA, The Council of Italian Restaurants in Australia – join forceswhich highlights 32 wineries with cellar doors via an interactive and to present the sixth annual Gusto festival. Held at Sydney Seafooddownloadable map where users can narrow their search by distance, School, Sydney Fish Market, Gusto is an all-day festival dedicatedopening hours and wine variety. The website provides in-depth to Italian food in all its regional variety.information about each winery along the route, including location,opening hours, amenities and history. Visitors to the site are invited There will be debates, cooking classes and tastings with theto leave a comment to share their experience with other travellers. likes of Armando Percuoco, Alessandro Pavoni, Danny Russo, Eugenio Maiale, Gabriele Taddeucci, Giovanni Pilu, Logan Tamar Valley Wine Route project manager Fiona Weller, of Moores Campbell, Mario Percuoco, Nino Zoccali, Richard Ptacnik andHill, says it’s increasingly important to encourage visitors to the Roberto Taffuri. Five food masterclasses ($60 each or $250 forregion. “This website is just the first step in providing visitors a way five) will delve into regional specialties, while wine educator Maxto unlock the secrets of the Tamar Valley and assist them to enjoy Allen will lead workshops on wines from Sicily, Tuscany and Pugliatheir time here more, hopefully becoming return visitors.” Future in three sessions ($40 or $100 for three) in conjunction with Nickplans include the addition of more interactive features to the website and Lara Caraturo, Michael Trembath, Sabino Matera, Giorgioto enhance its usability on the road, including the development of a De Maria and Joel Pizzini. See www.cira.com.au for all the latestsmart-phone app and other mobile-friendly services. information and bookings.TRIPLE CHALLENGE FAREWELL TO A PIONEERNEW Zealander Sarah WINE industry pioneer David Clarke, founder of the Hunter Valley’sLimacher has taken over as Poole’s Rock winery, died from cancer on April 8, aged 69. Davidgroup sommelier for three was a successful businessman who co-founded Macquarie Bankof Sydney’s most popular in 1985 and also was a prominent philanthropist who contributedwine venues: The Winery, to the Salvation Army and the Children’s Cancer Institute.The Gazebo Wine Gardenand Manly Wine. Although His involvement with wine began in the 1980s with the co-purchaseonly in her mid-20s, she has of a winery in Burgundy, France, followed by the purchase of abeen involved in the wine vineyard in Broke, Hunter Valley, which came to be known as Poole’sindustry in both New Zealand Rock. In 2004, he purchased the Tulloch winery in Pokolbin, whichand Australia, winning a later became Poole’s Rock Winery. He was also chairman for 17series of awards. years of Brian McGuigan Wines (now Australian Vintage) and was briefly president of the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia. Sarah will source winesfrom across the globe, findingunusual blends and labels tosatisfy adventurous Sydneypalates. Both The Winery and The Gazebo Wine Garden haveItalian enomatic wine systems, offering the opportunity to try over50 varieties of wine by the glass. Before her appointment at The Winery Group, Sarah had beenhead sommelier at Berowra Waters Inn and has also worked athigh-profile restaurants including 41 Restaurant, Sydney, TheTasting Room, Wellington and The Roxburgh Bistro.14 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

briefsWHERE PROSECCO WINERY’S MOMENTUM BUILDSIS KING FROGMORE Creek has been one of the Tasmanian wine industry’s majorTHE KING Valley used to be success stories over the past decade. Jointly owned by Tasmanian-one of the sleepiest spots based Tony Scherer and Californian Jack Kildwiler, Frogmore Creekin north-eastern Victoria, has enjoyed rapid expansion and is prominent on top restaurant wineknown only for the Italian lists around the country. Along the way, it has swallowed up the Hood/migrant families who farmed Wellington winemaker business formerly owned by the now-retiredtobacco there. Visit today, Andrew Hood, and recently purchased neighbouring Meadowbank -however, and those same including its labels, cellar door and restaurant. Frogmore Creek nowItalian migrants, and their produces well over 20,000 cases under its own labels, which includedescendants, have created 42 Degrees South, and considerably more for contract winemakinga vibrant wine community clients at its Cambridge winery in the Coal River Valley.that is at the forefront of thenew wave of ‘alternative’ Andrew Hood’s role as chief winemaker has been taken over bygrape varieties such as Frenchman Alain Rousseau, who hails from a winemaking family innebbiolo, barbera and arneis. Otto Dal Zotto and his son the Loire Valley, alongside Barossa-born and raised Nick Glaetzer.Michael are among those pioneers. They planted vine cuttings The duo is now putting its own stamp on the wine styles and hasin 2000 and were the first to produce sparkling wines from the just released a new range of reserve wines under the EvermoreItalian grape variety prosecco in this country. Today, their range label. Andrew remains on board as a consultant.includes the fresh and zingy non-vintage Pucino and the morecomplex L’Immigrante. So much has been achieved in such a short time that is seems hard to believe that Frogmore Creek has only just celebrated the Since that first planting, five other wine companies in the King 10th birthday of its first releases - an anniversary marked by aValley and surrounds have followed suit in making prosecco: dinner at Meadowbank and back vintage tastings attended byBrown Brothers, Chrismont, Ciccone, Pizzini and Sam Miranda. several leading interstate sommeliers and wine writers.All six have joined forces to create King Valley Prosecco Road,a food and wine trail designed to give visitors a range of The new experimental Evermore range uses cutting-edgeauthentic experiences in the region from Milawa to Cheshunt. winemaking techniques and features the 2008 Cuvee Evermore sparkling wine (a blanc de noirs style made from 100 per cent pinot The wineries offer intimate food and wine experiences at noir that has impressive zest and complexity), the 2009 Evermoretheir cellar doors, with each stop including a taste of locally Riesling (unconventionally fermented on skins and matured in oak)grown King Valley prosecco. For example, visitors can enjoy and the 2007 Evermore Pinot Noir. The pinot (which was the standouta tour of the Chrismont vineyard and sign up for a ‘Prosecco for me) is described by Nick Glaetzer as “much more than the sum ofMasterclass’, compare two styles of prosecco at Brown its parts”, with wonderful texture and tannin structure. The EvermoreBrothers while eating a picnic of house-made charcuterie wines can be purchased as a trio for $120, or individually.on the lawn, or enjoy prosecco with chocolate fondue at theCiccone estate. EARLY-BIRD WHITE Even the Pizzini-owned Mountain View Hotel at Whitfield (where BAROSSA Valley winery Chateau Tanunda claimed victory in the racethe food is outstanding) is getting in on the act with a Prosecco and to release the first commercial wine from the latest vintage - with itsOyster Hour every Wednesday to Saturday from 6-7pm. 2011 Barossa Tower Moscato bottled and ready for release before the Easter weekend in late April. The grapes, sourced from two vineyards See www.kingvalleyproseccoroad.com.au. in the Krondorf and Stonewell sub-regions, were picked at dawn on February 25 to retain their natural freshness, and fermentation of theADVICE FROM TOBY free-run juice was stopped early to preserve the wine’s distinctive grapey character. But the wine, which has an RRP of $15, is far fromVITICULTURIST Toby Bekkers has launched a consultancy just a novelty item, with previous vintages winning show gold medals.designed to help winemakers and wineries uncover hiddenpotential in their vineyards and wine businesses. Thecornerstone is improving grape quality by introducing naturalfarming practices and was inspired by a six-month stint Tobyspent working in France. “Many producers are enthusiasticabout organics and biodynamics, but are risk-averse,” he says. An organics and biodynamics specialist, he provides not justvineyard management advice, but also brand, communicationsand management advice. He has over 15 years’ experienceas a viticulturist and wine business manager and was formerlygeneral manager of Paxton Wines in McLaren Vale. For furtherinformation see www.tobybekkers.com. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsTONS OF TRUFFLE CELEBRATIONTYRRELL CLASS THE ANNUAL Mundaring Truffle Festival, held in picturesqueHunter Valley family wine Mundaring, a 45-minute drive from Perth, has become a popularTyrrell’s is able to boast some event with lovers of fine food and wines. The 2011 event will beof the oldest vines in Australia held over the weekend of July 30-31 and feature renowned Western– several over 100 years old - Australian, national and international chefs and food personalities,and is releasing a new range, who prepare truffle-themed dishes for a variety of learning and diningto be known as Centurion, experiences, including a Long Table Truffle Luncheon matched withwhich links them under one Watershed wines, truffle masterclasses presented by chef Alainumbrella. Tyrrell’s is labelling Fabregues and a daily program of celebrity cooking sessions andall its Centurions as individual vineyard wines – having sold off its discussion panels. There is also a food piazza, where visitors canLong Flat label a few years back in a bid to concentrate on quality. purchase truffle-themed dishes, as well as a truffle market and a showcase of more than 100 Perth Hills wines from 22 wineries. For “We own five blocks of 100-year-old vines – some date back details and bookings see www.mundaringtrufflefestival.com.to the 1860s in fact – and that would be unique anywhere in theworld,” says Bruce Tyrrell. Old vines add depth of flavour and TOP RESTAURANTS NAMEDcomplexity to a wine. SYDNEY’S Quay restaurant, which has an outstanding wine list, has The individual vineyard wines will only be produced in outstanding moved up one slot to become the 26th best restaurant in the worldvintages and will be in the $50-$80 bracket. “There will only be in the 2011 San Pellegrino rankings announced in London. The200 or 300 cases of each, so they’ll be pretty rare,” Tyrrell says. three other Australian restaurants on this year’s list were Sydney’s“Some winemakers say old vines don’t make a difference – but Tetsuya’s at 58 and Marque at 70, and Melbourne’s Attica at 53that’s generally because they don’t have any. What we have here - Ben Shewry’s eatery having risen 20 spots. Denmark’s Nomawe call sacred sites.” Of the 13 Hunter vineyards over 100 years restaurant took the no. 1 spot for the second year running, whileold, Tyrrell’s own six and manage two others. the highest new entry was London’s The Ledbury at 34, where Australian Brett Graham is the chef. “We have taken our winemakers selection wines back to specificvineyards and soils on our own estate, or vineyards that we Quay has long been one of Australia’s most successful restaurants,manage,” says Tyrrell. “This is a chance to show off our heritage one of only two to be awarded three-hat status for nine years in aand our traditions.” row. Quay’s executive chef Peter Gilmore recently launched his first cookbook, Quay: Food Inspired by Nature. John Fink, general manager Among these gems are the 4 Acres vineyard, directly in front of the Fink Group, owners of Quay and Otto restaurants, says: “Sydneyof the winery, which has shiraz vines dating back to 1879; the has some of the best restaurants in the world, and, hopefully, Quay’sStevens vineyard which has shiraz vines from 1867 and semillon win will encourage the world to visit us and enjoy them.”from 1911; Johnno’s Vineyard, with shiraz and semillon dating to1908; and the HVD Vineyard, purchased in 1982, which featureschardonnay and semillon vines from 1908. The 4 Acres vineyard was the source of fruit for what Tyrrelldescribes as “arguably the greatest red ever made in Australia,the Mount Pleasant 1954 Richard Hermitage. The 2006 4 AcresShiraz is beautifully balanced and appealingly earthy; a star alongwith the 2010 HVD Chardonnay and the 2005 Belford Semillon.OLD BUSINESS, NEW OWNERONE of Canberra’s oldest vineyards and wineries has a newowner and identity after Doonkuna Estate was recently soldto award-winning Eden Road Wines. Founded in 1972 andowned since 1995 by the Moran family, the Murrumbatemanwinery has grown significantly in the past 15 years to becomeone of the largest in the Canberra region. But after the deathof patriarch Barry Moran in 2009, the family decided it wastime to sell up and move on. “It just sort of came to the point,where it was like, well, do we exit nicely now, or go back intoit? And it just seemed like a better idea to exit,” says estatemanager Michael Moran. Eden Road winemaker Nick Spencer moved into the propertyduring April. “We’re excited about our move to Murrumbateman andfeel privileged to now be part of a well-established heritage,” he says.16 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

WYNDHAM A WINNERTHE HUNTER Valley’s Wyndham Estate was named besttourism winery at the Qantas Australian Tourism Awards inPerth. Wyndham Estate, established in 1828, attracts morethan 40,000 visitors annually and sits on the banks of theHunter River. Among the range of experiences on offer area heritage trail which takes in the vineyards and DalwoodHouse, the majestic home built by George Wyndham in 1830;The Olive Tree Restaurant with al fresco Mediterranean food;and a riverside park where visitors can picnic, fish, or makeuse of the free barbecues. Wyndham Estate also annually hostsOpera In The Vineyards, which this October 15 will featureDame Kiri Te Kanawa.EGG & WINE?Many winemakers andoenologists, notably thoseusing biodynamic methods,have elected to use egg-shaped vats because theyconsider this promotes naturalconvection within the liquidduring fermentation and naturalmixing of the lees, generatinga permanent movementaround the container’s walls.TARANSAUD therefore tookup the challenge of makingsuch a container out of Frenchoak. Until the present day, this shape had only ever been made out ofconcrete. Designing such a product requires exceptional technicalskill for which TARANSAUD was able to call upon its teams of mastercoopers and barrel makers. “‘OVUM’ took shape over time and the result was beyond ourwildest dreams, because in addition to achieving the technicalcontainer we sought, a real work of art was born,” explains Headof Communications, Francoise Barbin LeCrevisse. TARANSAUD vats, both round and oval, are recognized fortheir qualities of micro-oxygenation, thermoregulation and theirinteraction with wine to enhance its body, balance and elegance.In addition, this egg-shaped vat will enable natural mixing of thelees to enhance complexity, purity and precision in the wine.Visit www.taransaud.com. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsMARGARET RIVER FIGHTS - such as the impact on the water system,” Vanya Cullen says.COAL MINING INVASION “In the future, water will be more valuable than coal.”MIKE ZEKULICH She labels the mining moves as a disgrace, especially with the‘TOTAL madness.’ That is how leading Margaret River winemaker region now a producer of world-class wines. “It has taken us 40Vanya Cullen describes plans to mine coal in the premium wine- years to get here and we are on the brink of making some of theproducing region. But just when she and others vehemently best wines we can. Much more can be achieved in the future givenopposed to such a proposal thought they had had a major victory that so much of Margaret River’s wine uniqueness is in the puritywith the State Government’s environmental watchdog declaring of the land and the environment. Coal mining might benefit a fewmining in the area as unacceptable - and receiving the backing of people but no one in the broader community wants it. It makes noPremier Colin Barnett - another proposal has bobbed up. sense at all. The potential for tourism in the area in the long term is huge and coal mining flies right in the face of that.” It involves a Canadian company snapping up a large amountof ground to search for Margaret River coal north of the town; the Vanya says her late parents, wine pioneers Kevin and Di,initial plan involved mining more than one million tonnes a year at would have been horrified by the prospect of mining.Osmington, less than 15km east of the Margaret River townsite. The mining moves led to protests from the Margaret River shire, In objecting to mining, The Margaret River Wine Industry tourism operators, grapegrowers and winemakers. As its nameAssociation has decided to press for special State Government suggests, The No Coalition group - a loose alliance of many peoplelegislation to protect the area. Its board unanimously agreed - is also strongly opposed to coal mining.that coal mining in the region would have a detrimentalimpact on the wine industry and impinge greatly on the area’s Spokesman and celebrity chef Ian Parmenter believes thecollective wine brand. south-west of WA needs to be protected from mining before more companies launch bids for exploration. “We have to have this area Fears of the initial plan included putting its underground water quarantined against extractive mining,” he says. “Unless we cansupply at risk. “What can be lost through mining will be lost forever have the area declared immune, we are going to have to keep dealing with these issues.”PROFESSIONAL WINE STORAGE FOR THE COST OF A CUP OF COFFEE!Most people have 6 to 12 bottles of wine that should not wine-arkbe kept at home. Those special wines you have beenholding onto for years, waiting for that special occasion FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINEto pull the cork (or twist the cap as it may be).FOR THE COST OF A CUP OF COFFEE A MONTHWine Ark provides:> CLIMATE CONTROLLED MANAGED STORAGE*> FULL INSURANCE> 24 HOUR ONLINE ACCESS> WINE CAN BE SENT DIRECTLY TO YOUR CELLAR> SELL YOUR WINE ONLINE FROM YOUR ACCOUNT> NO HANDLING OUT FEES> PROFESSIONAL ADVICE AND FRIENDLY STAFFMembers of our Cellar Club also enjoy access to rare andcollectable wine, invitations to regular wine tastings anddiscounted storage rates. For more information please call1300 946 327 or visit www.wine-ark.com.auFollow us on Twitter, Facebook, or youtube channel *for 12 bottles18 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

Hahndorf Hill Winery Adelaide Hills Red-blooded Blue Introducing Blueblood 2009 – our new vintage of Blaufränkisch. This classic Austrian varietal has produced a seductive, new-wave red. Elegantly structured with a concentration of spice and blueberry notes. Trade enquiries NSW, QLD & VIC: Zenith Wine Agencies: 1300 883 056 SA: Melissa Stephenson 0408 896 139 www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine sceneJEFF CLARKE JOINS ARA COALS TO NEWCASTLEAFTER 17 years as chief winemaker for Montana (now PernodRicard NZ), Jeff Clarke has been appointed chief winemaker at ANTONIO Pasquale, anWinegrowers of Ara, one of NZ’s largest privately owned wine Italian philosopher turnedventures. Jeff joined Ara just two weeks before the start of the Kiwi winemaker, arrived2011 harvest. Ara, which promotes itself as “Marlborough’s premier back from Italy in April withsingle-vineyard producer”, has a sweeping, 385-hectare vineyard a breakthrough order for hisin the lower Waihopai Valley. The wines are made at Indevin’s Pasquale Waitaki Valley Pinotcontract winery, on the outskirts of Blenheim. Gris - from the land of pinot grigio. Antonio, who says his From the initial planting in 2002, the Ara project was managed command of the Italian language is a major advantage in securingby Dr Damian Martin, a viticulturist who was also responsible for export orders, pioneered viticulture in the nearby Hakatarameathe winemaking. Those roles have now been split into two, but Valley and also owns the Kurow Village Winery in the WaitakiDamian is no longer involved. There has been speculation that Valley. His wine is headed for fine-dining restaurants in Milan andAra’s owners - the wealthy Todd family - want the wines produced several other cities in Italy.in a less restrained, more mainstream style.2011 VINTAGE A MIXED BAG PARITUA REVIVESAN Auckland-based boutique winery reported in early April that it was A CHINESE company based in Auckland has purchased Paritua“well into harvest, which is proving to be a mixed bag - to say the least. Vineyards in Hawke’s Bay for an estimated $NZ10 million.Some good early fruit out of Hawke’s Bay; Marlborough whites are Founded by Americans Brianne and Gary Fisher in 2003, Paritualooking good; upper North Island is a tricky business! I suspect you was put into voluntary receivership in August 2010, with creditorswill see a few more rosé wines [produced in an effort to concentrate owed more than $20 million.the flavours of rain-affected reds] across your desk this year.” From its 54 hectares of vines at Maraekakaho and grapes From the start of the season, it was predicted that 2011 would yield purchased from other regions, Paritua last year produced abouta big crop, potentially intensifying the wine glut. The good news is that 20,000 cases of wine, sold mostly under its Paritua and Stonein March NZ Winegrowers announced a stronger than expected sales Paddock brands. According to Hawke’s Bay Today, the new ownerperformance by the industry, with exports of bottled wine climbing by is part of the aquaculture-focused Oriental Ocean group.10 per cent. Total sales for the year to June 2011 are predicted to be220 million litres, well above earlier forecasts of 205 million. GREYSTONE BUYS MUDDY WATER If the latest forecast is correct, New Zealand’s wine sales for the MUDDY Water, a Waipara producer of consistently classyyear will exceed production from the 2010 vintage by 30 million riesling and pinot noir, has been purchased by another locallitres, meaning many wineries were experiencing a significant high-flier, Greystone. Jane East and her husband, Michael, areduction in stock levels as they approached the 2011 harvest. Christchurch obstetrician and gynaecologist with “a passion for wine and hard work”, planted their first vines in 1993. However, February was the hottest on record in Auckland and Nelson, their adult children have no desire to become winemakers.but extremely wet in parts of Central Otago, and unfortunately Greystone, with a 40-hectare vineyard but no winery, sees theMarch proved to be much wetter than usual throughout most of acquisition as “a strategic move in acquiring a cornerstonethe country. Warwick Bruce, general manager of the consortium brand, as well as the vineyard and winery, from Muddy Water”.GroCo in Gisborne, reported in mid-March that “by far the biggest Belinda Gould, Muddy Water’s talented winemaker since 2000,frustration to growers and wineries has been the cloudy, cool days is no longer involved.and lack of sunshine”. Humid conditions in late February and earlyMarch created significant disease pressure. HEAD OF THE HOUSE In Hawke’s Bay, after heavy rain in late January and late March, the THE LARGEST wine company based at Waipara has a newvineyard manager at one of the region’s top red-wine sites reported CEO. Mud House, which also controls the Waipara Hills brand,over 400mm of rainfall between January 1 and April 16 - equal to the owns over 200 hectares of vineyards in the district, together withaverage during the entire October-April growing season. substantial plantings further afield, and wineries in Waipara and Marlborough. Replacing Baden Ngan Kee is MJ Loza, a lawyer who In Marlborough, after a warm start to the season, the harvest was was previously general manager of Seresin Estate in Marlborough.seven to 10 days earlier than usual - and widely expected to bea big one. “Bunch numbers are up,” reported one grower, “andberry sizes are good.”20 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERVOICES OF REASON IN A VOLATILE INDUSTRYWINEMAKERS are often profiled in the about wine. For the future of quality New Winemaker of the Year. He is also a partnermedia, telling the stories behind their Zealand producers, they are crucial”. in a Marlborough-based winemakinglabels. But what are their thoughts on the consultancy; co-owner of the Delta Winewine industry itself - and especially the Unlike New Zealand Winegrowers, Company, acclaimed for pinot noir; andcurrent oversupply? the industry body, Neill is not opposed often works in Italy as a ‘flying winemaker’. to the idea of raising excise tax on I spoke recently to two of New Zealand’s wine (currently a flat rate of $NZ2.60 Matt feels Marlborough’s winemakersmost thoughtful and experienced per litre, or $1.95 per bottle) to help have been criticised unjustly by thosewinemakers, one North Island-based, combat problem drinking. “Excise, as in other regions for causing the currentthe other in the south. There is not much a percentage of the cost of a good glut of New Zealand wine. “They areabout wine that Neill Culley doesn’t bottle, is not out of the ordinary. We making great wines too, such as Hawke’sknow. From growing grapes to making want responsible consumption of good Bay syrah and Central Otago pinot noir.outstanding wine, marketing it around quality wine, and there are abuse But their exports benefit from overseasthe world, and founding and running the costs associated with the consumption drinkers knowing about New Zealandhigh-flying Cable Bay winery, on Waiheke of very cheap wine. I have no issue wine - and that awareness has beenIsland, he is one of New Zealand’s most with an increase in excise, but the built on the success of Marlboroughtalented and versatile winemakers. government should also put more money sauvignon blanc.” into developing sustainable export Cable Bay produces superb markets, to help the industry achieve Accusations that Marlborough’schardonnay and syrah from Waiheke profitable sales over the long term.” growers were “greedy” in 2008 (whengrapes, backed up by a rich, merlot- a ‘savalanche’ of grapes in the region exceeded the previous record by overIt’s very easy to see wine as glamorous. Some think 60 per cent) are wrong. “The wine was in huge demand and the number of grapewinemaking means sitting around tasting Burgundies, bunches on the vines was only average - but they turned out to be huge. We didn’trather than watching the weather. see it coming.”based blend, Five Hills, and a refined Do wine competitions have a positive Are growers outside MarlboroughMarlborough sauvignon blanc. Cable influence on quality? “They do have good jealous of the region’s long-termBay also boasts one of the country’s best points,” Neill believes, “but it’s a mistake dominance? “I think so,” says Matt, “andwinery restaurants. So what does this to chase awards and let them determine of course there’s a touch of vulnerabilityastute winemaker think about the current your wine style.” He recently tasted a about Marlborough now. But that willstate of the New Zealand wine industry? trophy-winning chardonnay: “It was very change. The region’s wine sales are rising good, but too alcoholic and oaky.” and plantings are static, so eventually “Wine is now so cheap - often below we’ll get back into balance. Last year,cost - that I worry that the values of New For anyone thinking of plunging into the price of bulk wine rose - that’s aZealand wine will be lost,” says Neill. the wine industry, he offers some strong good sign.”“Wine is increasingly seen as a commodity advice. “Small producers typicallyitem, which moves our wine away from underestimate the sheer hard work that And on the other side of the world, whatwhat it needs to be built on - quality. is necessary. It’s very easy to see wine do they think of Marlborough wine? ASometimes it feels like wine is all about as glamorous. Some think winemaking bar in the Piazza delle Erbe - an ancientdeals - especially on the big corporates’ means sitting around tasting Burgundies, square in Verona - is pouring Saint Clairproducts - but what about genuine New rather than watching the weather.” Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc by the glass.Zealand businesses, passionate about “Italians adore that style of wine, with lots ofmaking great wine?” Matt Thomson is one of Marlborough’s passionfruit and blackcurrant flavour,” says busiest winemakers. As chief winemaker Matt. “They love new things. They know all Neill is much more upbeat about the for Saint Clair, he has won countless about the All Blacks and our America’s Cupstrong sales in his winery restaurant, awards - including Winestate’s trophy successes. One day we’ll sell a lot there.“where we attract people who are confident in 2008 and 2010 for New Zealand Pinot noir, too.” July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 21

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWTASTING THE LATEST Fortunately, the new release tastings the talks, and that the traffic forecast mustOFFERINGS FROM TUSCANY’S bear out that there are some excellent be re-examined, along with current costTINY TWINS wines from both DOCGs. And indeed, the estimates to establish the usefulness or 2008 Vino Nobile di Montepulcianos seem otherwise of the project.” She added thatIN ITALY’S Tuscany, where strict ageing fresher, a bit less dense and savoury than “on one hand the old-guard politiciansand release regulations apply, the 2006 the 2007s, and arguably more florally have been distancing themselves fromBrunello di Montalcino (available for sale perfumed. In a blind tasting, the best the bridge over the past few weeks, andfive years after the harvest) and 2008 included Bindella, Casale Daviddi and Dei now Berlin flags up its desire to redirectVino Nobile di Montepulciano (two years) from only traditional varieties, plus Canneto, the cash. We are in a far better position tovintages were released to the market a Icario and Poliziano, which all use a small see the back of this monster”.few months ago. proportion of merlot in the mix. ALSACE’S SWEET DEBATE Both are tiny appellations. The Brunello The best Brunellos, including the likesvineyard is around 2000ha in size and, of Collemattoni, Mastrojanni, San Giorgio Progress of a different sort is sought indue east by about 40km, Vino Nobile di and Uccelliera, had a sweet fragrance Alsace, where there is ongoing debateMontepulciano is even smaller, at 1400ha. and finish allied to a sinewy, taut, tannin about the use of sweetness scales onSmall-scale is definitely the order of the frame and a lushness of cherry fruits, labels, which would help consumers knowday, especially as ‘baby brother’ wines and more than a hint of savoury, herbal approximately what style of wine is in theare also produced in both appellations nuance. To the coiled, sweet-savoury bottle. Unoaked, fruit-focused styles are- Rosso di Montalcino and Rosso di muscle of Brunello, the Nobile generally gaining in popularity both in AustraliaMontepulciano respectively, which can be offers more gentleness, roundness and and the UK, and Alsace wine can be anmarketed much sooner after the vintage, softness, possibly a more fragranced exceptionally good match with Asian-fusionboth for a bit of cash flow and some ensemble. There are definitely super food, but it’s tricky knowing what style is inearlier approachability of style. Between wines to enjoy. the bottle, especially of aromatic and semi-Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di aromatic grape varieties.Montepulciano about 1.1 million cases are A BRIDGE TOO BIGproduced, in total, which is way fewer than To ease consumers’ confusion at home,several single wine brands in Australia. Over in Germany’s Mosel region, there the Australian Wine Research Institute was a glimmer of hope for the campaign has produced the PinotG style spectrum Along with Chianti (around 20,000ha) against the huge bridge over the river for dry and off dry wines made from pinotand Chianti Classico (around 7000ha), Mosel (previously reported here). grigio, or, as it is known in Alsace, pinotsangiovese is the mainstay variety of Elections in Rheinland-Pfalz and Baden- gris. On the label is a simple bar with a 1Brunello and Nobile. Brunello must be Wurttemberg resulted in the Green to 10 scale, highlighted where the wine100 per cent, while Nobile can include Party doing exceptionally well. At the in the bottle falls on the spectrum. Soup to 30 per cent of other varieties time of writing the Green Party held the this scale specifically excludes the latepermitted in Tuscany. The main other negotiating baton in coalition talks, and harvest and lusciously sweet wines oflocal varieties are canaiolo, colorino and high on the list of bargaining positions Alsace, though these form a tiny fractionmammolo, and international varieties were big infrastructure projects, including of all the pinot gris made there.such as merlot, cabernet sauvignon and the 160m-high, 1.7km-long bridge oversyrah are also allowed. the heart of the Mosel wine district. Another of Alsace’s four high-profile grape varieties, riesling, (the other two The official rating (made by the A five-week freeze on building works being gewurztraminer and muscat),organisation that controls production while negotiations took place between also has a diagrammatic taste scale forand promotion) for 2006 Brunello is five the Green Party and the SPD was the label, this time developed by thestars (out of five). In the previous decade implemented, and campaign insider and International Riesling Foundation. Herethey’ve also given a five-star rating Urzig resident Sarah Washington said the scale is measured simply from dry toto the 1997 and 2004. For Nobile the during the talks, “The Greens are adamant sweet, with an arrow marking the positionofficial rating for 2008 is four stars (both that the [bridge] will be a central issue in on the scale.2007 and 2006 had five, as they did inneighbouring Brunello).22 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

State-of-the-Art Wine Cellars HAND-BUILT IN FRANCE • HIGHEST OF STANDARDS The issue for Alsace is that it has no • Perfect cellaring temperaturesuch system to describe the sweetness • Regulated humiditylevel of its wines, and it hasn’t yet adopted • UV-treated glasseither of the existing options. Appellationsare just Alsace AC or Alsace Grand Cru wwDiwsc.otvrearntshtehfeurllmra.ncgoema.ta: uAC. Vendange tardive (VT, late harvest),or selection de grains nobles (SGN) may PRECISE TEMPERATURE EASILY ACCESSIBLEbe appended to both appellations. WhileSGN is pretty much guaranteed to be Available nationally throughsweet, VT could be dry and fully alcoholic, all major electrical appliance retailersjust harvested late, or it could be fullysweet, without any guidance on the labelto help consumers. Even non-VT and non-SGN wines can vary considerably alonga non-dry spectrum. In the absence of any region-wideinitiative, some Alsatien producers havecreated their own scale. Paul Zinck usesa ‘sugar intensity’ scale of 1 to 8, whileOlivier Humbrecht of Domaine ZindHumbrecht uses his own index rangingfrom 1 to 5 to show wines from bone-dry to medium-sweet. He is adamantthat Alsace needs something to helpconsumers navigate the gloriouslycomplex range of wines available fromthis small region. As it happens, there is a proposal - “onlya proposal” says Foulques Aulagnon, theexport operations manager for the CIVA,the Alsace inter-professional association- “for a sweetness scale on the labels ofall appellation wines throughout France,including Alsace” covering dry to sweetwines. Though whether it remains only aproposal we will have to wait and see. In the meantime, Michel Chapoutier,better known as a Rhone producer, hasjust launched a range of Alsace wines. Hehas avoided the entire issue, with his newpartnership venture in Alsace by makingall the wines dry. End of story. They aregood wines, and this is fine at one level,but some of the most exquisite wines fromAlsace have the intensity of fruit and aciditybalanced only by varying degrees of lesseror greater residual sweetness. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 23 DD_Appt(HPV).indd 1 5/3/2011 4:55:34 PM

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYLIGHT AND PRESERVATIVE-FREE - THE LATEST TRENDS IN WINETHERE is a growing trend in the wine Production is simple. To make the wine develop a preservative-free wine, but allindustry to diversity from the normal table sparkling they trap the initial carbon his old university lecturers use to tell himwines portfolio. What some would have dioxide given off by pressurising the initial it couldn’t be done. But now David cannotseen as gimmicks or passing fads are fermentation. Initially, Innocent Bystander keep up with demand for his preservative-now established niche wines, popular sold the moscato only in half-bottles, but free merlot, which is fruit-driven, vibrant,among informed, enthusiastic consumers. due to demand from the US market they fresh and crimson in colour.Often the styles arise from the creativity now offer 750ml bottles. Recently theyand ingenuity of the vigneron. Some are moved into the on-tap market. Around 25 Careful winemaking is required todeveloped out of economic necessity, and pubs and bars have the product on-draught produce preservative-free wine. First,provide valuable cash flow, while others are through a disposable 30-litre proprietary you need healthy, pristine grapes (Davidsimply created on a winemaker’s whim, or keg made of recyclable material. “Servicing uses grapes from organic and unirrigatedafter a request from customers. these is a full-time job,” admits Phil, with a vines), and after fermentation it is degree of angst. essential to keep the wine as chilled as An example of this extension of the possible to avoid unnecessary spoilage.marketplace is the growing trend towards The style takes its inspiration from Asti David explains some of the problems inlight, fizzy, fruity wines made from the muscat and Moscato d’Asti, which both herald from more detail: “Without sulphur the winegrape. Yes, they can be seen as an attempt the Piemonte region of Italy. The difference undergoes malolactic fermentationto attract a younger market into wine, and in in the two styles is generally the amount quickly, which then allows us to keep thesome instances it is working well. But they are of sparkle: moscato is frizzante or slightly wine at 5 degrees Celsius. We keep thealso versatile wines which can be excellent sparkling, while asti is a full spumante or wine CO2 saturated to help stop oxygento serve on a hot, lazy Sunday lunchtime sparkling wine. Moscato d’Asti is generally penetration. The biggest challenge iswhich can extend to an afternoon tipple. Or, regarded as a dessert wine, which is how bottling the wine, since you have to warmalternatively, moscato can be an elegant, some of our Australian wines could be sold, the wine up to 15 degrees (so the labelsfresh way to finish off a meal. as a light alternative to a botrytis semillon can stick). The wine is filtered through three consecutive sets of filter sheetWe were looking for old-vine gordo and found several and must be filtered to 0.45 micron soterrific vineyards around Swan Hill and we liked their no bugs attack the wine when in bottle.very full character. The additional challenge is setting the fill height on the bottle since the greater In Australia the label term moscato with a dish such as a fruit tart. Moscato also the ullage (the space at the top of thedescribes a wine made of at least 85 per provides a low-alcohol way to finish a meal. bottle) the more air, faster ageing andcent of any muscat variety. Yarra Valley less freshness; yet if it is filled too full andproducer Innocent Bystander makes an Another style that is coming in from the is stored in a warm climate it will expandattractive Pink Moscato out of two muscat cold is preservative-free wines. Such red and spill out the capsule.grapes. Owner Phil Sexton explains why wines used to be as rare as hen’s teeth,they chose the pairing of muscat gordo but more are appearing, and some are “It is such a challenge technically, andblanco (Muscat of Alexandria) and black remarkably good. it needs good equipment, and mostmuscat (Muscat of Hamburg) to make important of all superior grapes, hencethe wine. “We were looking for old-vine Sulphur dioxide is the most traditional organic and unirrigated. You can’t dogordo and found several terrific vineyards preservative and is used throughout the anything to the wine (in other words, noaround Swan Hill and we liked their very full winemaking process. It is principally oak treatment), otherwise it will oxidise. Itcharacter. The black muscat is mainly used used as an antioxidant and protects reminds me of a young, early-bottled Italianfor colour. Another key to this choice is that the wine from bacteria spoilage which dolcetto: the wine is fresh but is balanced,we get full flavour ripeness at around 10 would turn the wine to vinegar. But it vibrant, fruity and way better chilled.”degrees baume, hence there is no need to can cause an allergic reaction in somemake any adjustment or additions to reach consumers, especially those prone to New styles and trends continue to emerge.our final balance.” asthma or allergies. For instance, there is a growing number of producers looking to lower the alcohol David Lowe from Lowe Wines in Mudgee levels of their wines, while still preserving suffers from mild asthma and wanted to the normal flavour profiles. But that will have to wait for another edition.24 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011



winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING WOLGAN VALLEY -LUXURY, FINE WINE AND THE RAW SPECTACLE OF A BIG COUNTRYWHAT does $200,000 worth of wine look After driving on a network of freeways I could have sat on the verandah alllike? Thankfully, it’s a question easily from downtown Sydney, we had to curb day and watched the majesty of theanswered by a visit to the wine cellar at our speed considerably to tackle a steep surrounding escarpments change colourWolgan Valley Resort & Spa, the $125 road full of hairpin turns leading to the every hour. But there’s plenty to do atmillion luxury bolthole near Lithgow owned ‘floor’ of Wolgan Valley. A 250 million-year- Wolgan. You can set off on a bush walkby Emirates Airlines. My eye was caught old landscape filled with Manifest Destiny- with a guide, who details the property’sby a bottle of Clos du Mesnil, the hugely style escarpments, its awe-inspiring biodiversity, Aboriginal history and, ofexpensive blanc de blancs champagne ruggedness is the result of erosion and course, the spectacular rediscovery of thefrom Krug. But Ben the sommelier is quick land movement on a titanic scale. prehistoric Wollemi pine in the mid-1990s.to point out that a third of the bottlings hailfrom the geographically closer regions of For the last 13km of the journey, you have Activities are included in the tariff andOrange and Mudgee. to drive along a gravel road. This only adds range from visiting the on-site stables to the anticipation of what is to come. You to wildlife safaris. Australian wildlife is Since opening in 2009, Wolgan Valley has leave your car at the main security gate and notoriously shy, even deep in the Outback,enjoyed blanket publicity but its activities for a staff member appears in minutes to drive but we saw several mobs of wallaroosvisiting wine lovers remain a work in progress. you to the reception area. and wallabies, including a rare albinoClos du Mesnil isn’t alone in reflecting the specimen, and large goannas skitteringfact that many of its guests are well-heeled Recycled local timbers, vast slabs of along the pathways.and more familiar with the wines of other sandstone and polished hardwoodscountries. As you scan the bottles, rieslings have been crafted into the sort of bush After a day or two, it’s easy to adopt afrom the Mosel valley and Alsace and premier luxury lodge perfected in the US and New cruise-type lifestyle, with activities servingcrus from Bordeaux heave into view. Zealand. Centre-stage is a club-like public to fill the space between the three meals of area, eclectically furnished with antiques the day. Visits to the plush Timeless Spa are a popular option, as is lapping or loungingEven the muesli and eggs benedict at breakfast around the huge central pool. And theare worth a review, let alone the four-course menu obsession with the food is justified. Evendegustation served every evening. the muesli and eggs benedict at breakfast are worth a review, let alone the four-course Many guests sign up for the day excursion and seriously comfortable armchairs and menu degustation served every evening.to the wineries of Mudgee, says Ben. “All of lounges that semaphore old money and/the wines offered in our all-inclusive packages or stealth wealth. One trip that shouldn’t be missed - noare from regions close to the property, as is matter how slothful you become - is a visitthe majority of the produce used in the kitchen. The 36 bungalow suites, each with to the original homestead on the property,We really try to stick to a 180-km radius of a private pool, are strung out along restored to the tune of $2 million by Ianorigin.” And it’s hardly surprising that food widely spaced pathways. If you don’t like ‘Clean Up Australia’ Kiernan. It’s a reminderand wine sourcing has become such an act walking much, roaming staff will pick you of the Walker family, who arrived here inof faith when you consider the kerfuffle that up in a buggy and take you anywhere 1832 to build the first homestead west ofaccompanied the resort’s early days. you want to go. More like mini-houses, the Blue Mountains - Wallerawang Station. the suites have a huge lounge with a The Lithgow location of the no-expense- fireplace, a breezeway verandah, a vast, The Walker family’s most famous visitorspared property raised many eyebrows slate-encrusted bathroom and a walk- was Charles Darwin, who rode from Sydneywhen Emirates announced that the airline in dressing room that could double as to Bathurst in 1836 when HMS Beagle visitedhad taken over the lease of a 1618-hectare another bedroom. Australia as part of its five-year, round-the-spread, formerly a pastoral lease, to world voyage. Originally a geologist, Darwinmimic its lavish Al Maha resort in Dubai. Wolgan Valley Resort is also proud of made astute observations of AustralianBut the hard-scrabble mining town is its claim to being the world’s first carbon- fauna and flora that helped him to formulatealso the proverbial stone’s throw from the neutral resort. It’s the first thing you’re told his theories of convergent evolution andspectacular beauty of World Heritage-listed on check-in after being handed the key natural selection. The luxury aside, suchWollemi and Garden of Stone national parks. to your suite, which is warmed by heat- knowledge and a sense of history is one exchange technology. of the most lasting memories of a visit to Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa. Call 9290 9733 or go to [email protected] W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

There is no substitute for hard work. Thomas Edison SILVER MEDAL 2010 International Wine Challenge - The Worl’s Biggest Wine Competition 5 STARS Winestate Magazines McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu Tasting SILVER MEDAL 2009 Winegrapes Australia McLaren Vale Wine ShowMajor Retailers Sylvan Springs Estates is a proud McLaren ValeFassina (SA) boutique wine producer.Cellarbrations - Tappy’s (SA) Our philosophy is toVillage Cellars (SA) concentrate all of ourMcLaren Vale Hotel (SA) resources into a smallTonsley Hotel (SA) range of wines and toTorrens Arms Hotel (SA) do it well!Baden Powell Cellars (VIC)Burton Stores (VIC) SYLVAN SPRINGSCarma Cellars (VIC)Chippendale Cellars (NSW) P (08) 8383 0500Platinum Liquor (NSW)D’Vine Cellars (NSW) [email protected] Barons (WA) [email protected] Cross Cellars (ACT) www.sylvansprings.com.auWalkabout Tavern (NT)wineboss.com.ausquashedgrape.com.au

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKEL ANDRE L. SIMON - PART 2IN 1907, French citizen but England- Review in 1920. It was ahead of its time Simon’s life as a shipper for Pommerydweller Andre L. Simon, champagne in that Simon discussed the importance came to an abrupt end late in 1932, whenshipper for Pommery, made the first of of preserving accurate geographical he received a letter from them sayinghis many excursions outside Europe names for wine. “There is no such thing that they would have nothing more to dowhen he travelled to South America as Swiss Champagne or Australian with him, and that they had given theirand South Africa. (Surprisingly, it was Burgundy,” he asserted. agency to another firm which would alsoto be another 56 years before he have nothing to do with him. As Hughvisited Australia.) His wine and food World War I was to change Simon’s life, Johnson later explained, Simon wasexperiences in Buenos Aires included a as it did so many lives. Before war was “caught in the violent fluctuations of thespecial dinner party on a very hot day in declared, Simon had spent four years as franc-pound exchange rate when Britainthe city’s best restaurant. Simon thought a volunteer in the French artillery. Then, came off the gold standard, he could nohe had checked that everything was because he described himself as “a longer pay for his champagne stocksjust right. But when the sommelier took man of letters”, he was made regimental and Pommery, without compunction,the bottle of champagne out of its ice postman. He was later moved to Flanders ended their 33-year association”.bucket, removed the muselet and pulled where, during the winter of 1915, heout the cork there was no ‘pop’. As Simon wrote his best-seller, not on wine, but on At 55, an age when many peoplewrote in one of his autobiographies, In Russian grammar: the whole edition was are contemplating retirement, Simonthe Twilight, the sommelier “came to sold to the War Office, which handed it out began a second life as advocatepour some wine in my glass to give me a to all men who were likely to have contact for the complementary roles of wine with the Russians during the war. and food. After visiting Madeira inSimon was caught in the violent fluctuations of the franc-pound exchange ratewhen Britain came off the gold standard.chance to smell and taste it, but no wine Back in England in 1919, Simon 1933, he became managing directorcame out of the bottle. It looked very bought two houses - one in London, of the short-lived Madeira Winecold. When I looked into the open neck of the other in Surrey, where he was to Association, formed to popularisethat champagne bottle I saw, wedged at spend the rest of his life. For the next madeira in England. It was a busythe top, what looked like a shining white 13 years or so he enlarged his country and significant year for Simon. Theglass marble. It was a piece of solid ice!” home, and happily travelled, especially publisher Constable asked him to edit to Africa and South America, selling a new series of popular books on wine. Back in London in 1908, Simon Pommery champagne. He also found Some of the titles he wrote himself,established the Wine Trade Club with time to compile three extensive wine among them Madeira: Wine, Cakes,some friends, intending to increase the bibliographies, which are still highly and Sauce (1933), Port (1934) and ofknowledge of younger men (there were regarded today. The first, Bibliotheca course Champagne (1934); others heapparently no women) in the wine trade Vinaria, was published in 1913 in only commissioned friends to write. But,by arranging tastings, lectures and 180 copies, and listed publications most importantly, in London on 20social events, and amassing a technical in the Wine Trade Club library and in October 1933, with writer AJA Symons,library. The club was a great success, his own burgeoning library. This was he founded the Wine and Food Societyand has been described by doyen of followed in 1927 and 1932 by two (now the International Wine and FoodEnglish wine writers Hugh Johnson more bibliographies, on 15th and 16th Society). Its main aim was to raiseas “the forerunner by 45 years of the century wine books. All three are today the standard of cookery in England,Institute of Masters of Wine”. Some sought-after, rare and valuable. In and to “bring together and to serve allof Simon’s lectures at the club were 1929 The Art of Good Living, the first of who took an intelligent interest in thepublished. One of them, ‘The different Simon’s many books on both food and problems and pleasures of the table”.names of wine’, was reprinted in The wine, appeared. By 1934 there were 1000 members.Australian Brewers’ Journal, Wine Trade28 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

Vive la FranceWINESTATE WINE TOUR OF FRANCE September 10 - September 26, 2011 IN 2011, Winestate returns to France with a beautiful tour that visits most of the important wine regions in that country: Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, Burgundy, the Rhone Valley, Bordeaux and Chablis. This is our fourth visit to France and twelfth international tour overall. We have refined the tours into an outstanding combination of the best of wine, food and historical visits, with some free time to explore the old towns we visit and with restaurant recommendations at night. The tour will be coordinated by Travelrite International with Winestate editor/publisher Peter Simic as your host. It is a unique experience, combining visits to some wineries that are not normally open to the public, sampling of special vintages and meeting winemakers who are the heart and soul of the wineries. France is everyone’s first and favourite wine tour. This will be no exception!

TOUR OF FRANCE 2011THE ITINERARY an optional morning tour of the main sights of Paris. The tourDAY 1 group will meet early evening forSaturday September 10 welcome drinks hosted by PeterDEPARTURE Simic. A good-quality restaurantTour members depart Australian will be recommended for dinner.capital cities and travel overnightto Paris. It will be possible for tour DAY 3members to depart Australia on Monday September 12an earlier date – accommodation BORDEAUXwill be offered at a Paris hotel for After breakfast the tour groupclients arriving early. Please call will transfer to Paris airportfor details. to join a flight to Bordeaux, where our visit to this famousDAY 2 region will start with time in StSunday September 11 Emilion and Pomerol. ThesePARIS regions are home to many fineOn arrival early morning at Paris producers that include Chevalairport, the tour group will be Blanc, Canon, Pavie, Petrus andmet and transferred by private Latour Pomerol – their winescoach to our four-star hotel in are based mainly on merlot,the centre of Paris. There will cabernet franc and cabernetbe time to freshen up before sauvignon. Peter Simic will introduce us to some of the most important producers and DAY 5 guide us through structured Wednesday September 14 tasting sessions. There will be BORDEAUX some free time in the delightful We will travel south of small town of St Emilion. We Bordeaux for a morning visit will check into our Bordeaux to producers in the Barsac and hotel late afternoon for a three- Sauternes regions, sampling night stay. Restaurants will be world-famous dessert wines. recommended for dinner. The afternoon will be free for independent sightseeing and DAY 4 shopping in Bordeaux. We will Tuesday September 13 gather for our first Winestate BORDEAUX Magazine Celebration A full day in the Medoc, perhaps Dinner at a Michelin-starred the most famous wine producing restaurant in Bordeaux, with region in the world. We will local wines carefully selected travel north of Bordeaux along by Peter Simic. the Gironde River to Margaux, St Julien Beychevelle, Pauillac DAY 6 and St Estephe areas, home Thursday September 15 to producers such as Chateaux NARBONNE Latour, Mouton Rothschild, After breakfast we will travel Lafite, Margaux and Lynch by coach south-west to Bages. In a memorable day we Narbonne, located close to will enjoy visits to a range of the Mediterranean and at major producers under Peter the heart of the Languedoc- Simic’s guidance. There will be Roussillon region, stopping free time in one of the villages, briefly in the historic town and the evening will be spent at of Carcassone. Languedoc- leisure in Bordeaux. Roussillon is France’s biggest30 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

Vive la France!wine producing region. In the matched to an impressive YOUR EXPERT TOUR LEADERpast two decades there has menu. The evening will bebeen a major improvement in spent at leisure. Peter Simic, your tour guide, is an ideal host for this trip.standards, with an emphasis With a background in publishing and wine education for overon high-quality varietal wines. DAY 10 30 years, his wine knowledge is vast. In addition to being theMost of the production is Monday September 19 founding editor/publisher of Winestate, Peter was formerlyred wine based on grenache, AVIGNON the founding publisher of Wine & Spirit (US), manager of thesyrah, carignan, cinsault, After breakfast we travel north SA Wine Information Bureau, and wine educator with SAcabernet and merlot, with to explore the southern Rhone Regency College. He is also a regular wine commentator inmodern techniques from New region, famous for distinctive, newspapers and on radio and television. Peter recently led aWorld winemakers dominant. powerful red wines based on number of highly successful wine tours: the Winestate toursGood restaurants will be syrah blends with grenache, to France in 1999, 2003 and 2006, the QE2 Winestate cruiserecommended for dinner. cabernet and other varieties. in 2001, the Winestate tours to Italy in 2002, 2005 and 2010, We will visit Chateauneuf-du- and the Winestate tours to Spain 2000 and 2004.DAY 7 Pape, the most famous wineFriday September 16 centre on the Rhone. This DAY 12 Celebration Dinner at PeterNARBONNE deep red wine has the highest Wednesday September 21 Simic’s favourite restaurant, LeA full day of vineyard visits minimum strength of any BEAUNE Jardin de Ramparts, in Beaune.in Languedoc-Roussillon French wine and was the wine A full day of exploration ofwith expert guidance by that led to the establishment the vineyards of Burgundy in DAY 13Peter Simic. We will visit of the appellation controlee the Cote de Nuits region. We Thursday September 22some of the most important system in the 1920s. We will will travel through the famous BEAUNEemerging producers, meet visit top producers, tour the regions of Gevrey Chambertin, After breakfast we travelthe winemakers and sample a cellars, meet the winemakers Chambolle Musigny and the through the Cote de Beaunerange of the best wines. and enjoy carefully selected biggest name of all, Domaine with visits to wineries in the tastings under Peter Simic’s de la Romanee Conti. Peter great regions of MeursaultDAY 8 guidance. Good restaurants will Simic will ensure that we are and Puligny and ChassagneSaturday September 17 be recommended for dinner. invited to some fine producers, Montrachet. An optional guidedAVIGNON meet the winemakers and tour of the famous Hotel DieuAfter breakfast we travel through DAY 11 taste a range of excellent will take place early evening.Provence to the fine historic Tuesday September 20 wines. In the evening we will Good restaurants will becity of Avignon, our base for BEAUNE enjoy a fabulous Winestate recommended for dinner.three nights. On the way we After breakfast the tour groupwill stop at the wonderful Pont will travel north along thedu Gard, the superb Roman Rhone River valley to the fineaqueduct built between AD40 wine region of Burgundy. Weand AD60, and visit a leading will pass through the lowerCote de Provence producer and upper Rhone regions, thefor a cellar tour and structured Maconnais and Beaujolais, withtastings. Good restaurants will a brief stop in Lyon, the bustlingbe recommended for dinner. and impressive second city of France. We will arrive inDAY 9 Beaune, the delightful capital ofSunday September 18 the Burgundy wine region, in theAVIGNON late afternoon and check into ourA free morning to explore the centrally located four-star hotel.delightful city of Avignon, a Beaune sits in the centre of thelively centre of art and culture Cote d’Or, comprising the Cotethat was the home of the popes de Nuits to the north and Cotefrom 1309 until 1791. The tour de Beaune in the south. Theygroup will meet for a Winestate produce highly regarded red andMagazine Celebration Lunch white wines from pinot noir andat a noted Michelin-starred chardonnay grapes. Restaurantsrestaurant. Peter Simic will will be recommended andguide us through a carefully the evening will be free forselected range of fine wine independent activity. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 31

TOUR OF FRANCE 2011DAY 14 Reims, with the main producers day of vineyard visits. We will DAY 18Friday September 23 centred near Reims and around drive through the vines along Tuesday 27 September REIMS the villages of Epernay and Ay, the picturesque ‘Champagne AUSTRALIAWe travel north to Chablis, close to the banks of the River Route’ and visit two of the Early-morning arrival in Australia.a northern outpost of the Marne. There are approximately region’s main producers,Burgundy region that is famous 27,500 hectares of vines and meeting the winemakers and TOUR DETAILSfor distinctive white wines made more than 19,000 producers sampling a range of the bestfrom chardonnay grapes. The in the Champagne region, crus. Local restaurants will be The price for the 15-night tourwines have an intense, highly although only about 10 per cent recommended for dinner. is $10,775 per person twin-charged flavour with a complex of the vines belong to the great share. Single supplement issharpness. We will visit a major international producers. DAY 16 $1500 per person. The land-producer and sample some of the Sunday September 25 only price for the tour (nobest wines under Peter Simic’s DAY 15 REIMS flights) is $8950 per personguidance. After the visit we will Saturday September 24 A free morning in Reims for twin-share. International andtravel on to the Champagne REIMS independent activity before general travel taxes and fuelregion. The Champagne After breakfast we will travel gathering for our final Winestate surcharges are additional.vineyards are located south of to Epernay and Ay for a full Magazine Celebration Lunch At November 1, 2010 they at a notable Michelin-starred were approximately $540 restaurant. A range of wines per person. carefully selected by Peter Simic will accompany a fine menu in INCLUDED IN THE a fitting celebration of our time TOUR PRICE: in France over the previous two · Return economy class air weeks. The evening will be free travel from east coast Australian for independent activity. capitals to and from Paris with Singapore Airlines. Please call DAY 17 about other Australian departure Monday 26 September cities. Domestic flight from Paris DEPARTURE to Bordeaux. Passengers will After breakfast the tour group be able to travel early or extend will travel to Paris airport to their stay in Europe at no extra connect with Singapore Airlines airfare cost. flights to Australia. · Accommodation in three- and four-star hotels with private G R E AT F O O D AN D W I N E facilities. Hotel taxes and service charges.We have found that tour members get a lot more out of their holiday if they are free to make · A full continental breakfasttheir own lunch and dinner arrangements on some of the tour days. It gives members the daily and four special Winestateopportunity to try out local restaurants - essential if they are to get to know the French - and to Magazine Celebration Luncheseat lightly or informally on some occasions. Peter Simic and the tour manager will recommend or Dinners.restaurants for each of these flexible-eating meals. Full continental breakfast daily and four · Entrances, tasting fees andspecial Winestate Magazine Celebration Lunches/Dinners are included in the tour package. special services at vineyardsThese will also be occasions on which we celebrate the food and wine of the regions. in each of the regions visited. Sightseeing and general entrance fees as detailed in the itinerary. · Tour leadership by Peter Simic, editor/publisher of Winestate Magazine. · Tour management by Travelrite International Pty Ltd, with an experienced staff member travelling with the group. · A Travelrite International travel bag.32 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

Vive la France! VERY SPECIAL EXPERIENCESFollowing the great success of previous wine toursto France, Italy and Spain, Peter Simic and the staff atWinestate have arranged for a series of very special visitsin the historic and impressive fine wine areas of France.We will visit vineyards that are rarely open to the public andsample special vintages and meet people responsible fortheir skillful production. It will be a unique time to meet thecharacters and expand our knowledge in most enjoyableand pleasant surroundings.NOT INCLUDED IN other costs at foreign exchange CANCELLATIONS. full refund of all monies paid,THE TOUR PRICE: rates at November 1, 2010. Cancellation advised more or offering arrangements to· Passport and visa fees. Travelrite International reserves than 60 days from the date proceed with the tour at a· International airport and general the right to alter the tour price of departure from Australia modified price.travel taxes. or modify the tour if any of will incur a cancellation fee of· Travel insurance. these factors change, giving $300 per person. Cancellations REFUNDS.· Sightseeing and general any passenger who has booked advised 60 days or less The tour is based onexpenses not specified in the the right to withdraw with a from the date of departure arrangements that do not allowitinerary. full refund of monies paid. No from Australia will result in for any refunds in respect of· Items of a personal nature. alteration to the tour price can be the loss of all monies paid. sightseeing, accommodation,· Additional travel arrangements made within 60 days of departure Travel insurance is strongly meals, airfare or other services– these will be quoted for from Australia. recommended to cover the not utilised after the tour hasseparately. cost of cancellation fees that commenced. DEPOSITS AND PAYMENTS. could result from a death inGENERAL INFORMATION A deposit of $500 per person is the family, illness, etc. TRAVEL DOCUMENTS.AND BOOKING CONDITIONS required at the time of booking. All passengers will need a Full payment will be required 60 MINIMUM TOUR NUMBERS. valid passport. PassengersTOUR OPERATOR. days before departure. The tour has been priced holding other than anTravelrite International Pty Ltd on the basis of a minimum Australian passport should(ABN 64 005 817 078) is the tour CHANGES. number of passengers having check requirements withoperator working with Winestate After confirmation of travel booked on the tour 60 days Travelrite International.Publishing Pty Ltd. arrangements, one change before departure. Travelrite to travel arrangements will International reserves the right BAGGAGE.TOUR PRICES. be provided free of charge. to cancel the tour if insufficient Economy-class passengersPrices are based on airfare, general Subsequent changes will incur a passengers have booked by 60 qualify for a 20kg airlinetransport, accommodation and fee of $25 for each change. days before departure, giving a baggage allowance. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 33

TOUR OF FRANCE 2011Vive la France!CHANGES TO THE whether negligent or otherwiseTOUR ITINERARY. of those carriers, hoteliersTravelrite International reserves or other persons providingthe right to change the tour services in connection withitinerary to fit in with operational the tour over whom we haverequirements. Any change no direct or exclusive control.will be replaced with similar We do not accept responsibilityarrangements with an equal or for any injury, damage, loss,greater value. delay, change of schedule, or any other events that areRESPONSIBILITY. beyond our direct control,Travelrite International Pty Ltd such as, but not limited to,(ABN 64 005 817 078 Licence war, terrorism, flood, fire,No 30858) is the tour organiser. civil disturbance, acts of God,Travelrite International acts acts of government or anyonly as an agent for passengers other authorities, accidentsin making arrangements with to or failure of machinerycarriers, hoteliers and others or equipment, or industrialfor the tour. As a result, we actions. The passage contract incannot accept liability for any use by the carriers concerned,act or omission whatsoever, when issued, shall constituteCOMFORTABLE TOUR HOTELS the sole contract between free on 1800 630 343. the transportation companies Travelrite International Pty Ltd. We have carefully selected well-located three-star hotels or firms and the purchasers ABN 64 005 817 078. (very comfortable or comfortable Michelin rating) that of these tours. Baggage is at Licence No. 30858 provide good value for money. All have clean, comfortable owners’ risk throughout the E-mail: [email protected] rooms with private facilities, and some will provide an tour. The contract between enjoyable experience of ‘European style’ accommodation passenger and Travelrite ABOUT TRAVELRITE rather than the uniformity of standardised modern hotels. International shall be construed INTERNATIONAL in accordance with the laws of Travelrite International Pty Ltd the State of Victoria. is a well-established travel company that has been HOW TO BOOK operating in the eastern suburbs Bookings can be made by sending of Melbourne for 32 years. It full names and addresses of is fully licensed and has two intending tour members with a fully accredited IATA offices, deposit of $500 per person to: at Heathmont and Balwyn. It directly represents the major Travelrite International Pty Ltd airlines of the world and all 298 Whitehorse Rd major domestic and international Balwyn 3103 Victoria tour operators. It has been operating successful tours for Further information and booking more than 25 years. Travelrite forms can be obtained by International is a full member telephoning Travelrite International of the Australian Federation of Pty Ltd on (03) 9836 2522 or toll- Travel Agents – AFTA.34 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011







FORTUNES RISINGBRIGHTER TIMES AHEAD FOR GROWERSON THE UPPER NORTH ISLAND

MICHAEL COOPERIT’S BEEN A ROUGH RIDE The Gisborne Wine Centre opened wealth accumulation has left them with an recently on the city’s waterfront, as a estimated $NZ675 million”. In 1980, Johnlately for growers in New Zealand’s third- one-stop shop where tourists can taste Spencer - whose grandfather, Berridgelargest wine region - but things are looking up. and buy the region’s wines. Spencer, founded Caxton Printing Works -Two years ago, Pernod Ricard NZ (formerly acquired four adjoining properties, whichMontana) slashed its intake of contract-grown Late last year, The Gisborne Herald now form the 1821-hectare Man O’ Wargrapes - mostly chardonnay - and last year welcomed the arrival of “a new Montana Farm. From 1996 onwards, a low-profilethe giant company sold its local vineyards, owner that is committed to Gisborne - rather trickle of wine was marketed under thewinery and brands, notably Lindauer. So how than being here as a byproduct of bigger Stony Batter and Road Works brands.are Gisborne’s winegrowers coping? deals.” That was a reference to PernodWinestate’s annual tasting of Upper North Ricard NZ’s sale of its Gisborne assets A new era began in 2000 when John’sIsland wines covers Gisborne, Waikato/ to a joint venture by the Japanese-owned son, Berridge, and daughter, Mertsi, tookBay of Plenty, Auckland and Northland. brewer, Lion Nathan, and New Zealand’s over the reins and set out to “establish aThese regions have 25 per cent of New largest contract winemaker, Indevin. collection of world-class, hillside vineyardsZealand’s 700-odd wineries, but less than on one piece of land”. Their ultimate aim is10 per cent of the vineyard area. Remote Richard Olliver, of Indevin, sees a bright to produce wines that “one day, will standand very sparsely populated, compared to future for Lindauer, the famous sparkling alongside the classics of the world”.Auckland, Gisborne has far fewer wineries, based mostly on Gisborne grapes. “Webut four times the area of bearing vines. don’t believe export markets have been After a flurry of planting between 2002 and pushed as hard as they can be,” he says, in 2006, Man O’ War now has 60 hectares of Gisborne growers are “not out of the reference to Pernod Ricard’s commitment vineyards on Waiheke and nearby Ponuiwoods yet”, says John Clarke, chairman of to its Jacobs Creek bubblies. Island, divided into more than 80 individualGisborne Wines, “but there have been very blocks draped over coastal hills overlookingfew vines pulled out. Most growers have The Auckland region has also been in steep cliffs and green-water coves. upheaval. Matakana Estate, the biggest After many years of research, theTHEIR ULTIMATE AIM IS TO PRODUCE Spencers and their long-term viticulturist,WINES THAT ONE DAY WILL STAND Matt Allen, concluded that Man O’ War’sALONGSIDE THE CLASSICS OF THE WORLD. steepest, low-lying, north-facing clay slopes, with their good heat and drainage,arrangements with existing companies and producer at Matakana, north of the city, were ideal for red wine production. Classicthere is every indication the industry will get was placed in liquidation late last year, Bordeaux varieties - cabernet sauvignon,into a better supply and demand balance.” after experiencing a downturn in demand merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit and prices. The company, which also drew verdot - have been planted, together with Gro-Co, a Gisborne wine co-operative, was grapes from Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay and the island’s latest star, syrah.set up in 2009 with 30 grower-shareholders. Marlborough, produced its cheaper winesGeneral manager Warwick Bruce (formerly under the Goldridge Estate brand. Cooled by sea breezes, the higher, morePernod Ricard NZ’s viticultural manager in exposed sites, with free-draining volcanicGisborne) admits that achieving sales has On a brighter note, Man O’ War has finally soils, were identified as being suitable forbeen difficult and the returns to growers exploded into action. After planting their first white wine grapes, especially sauvignonare lower than hoped for, but the company vines on Waiheke Island in 1993, the Spencer blanc and chardonnay. Pinot gris has beenhas sold more than 60 per cent of the wine family waited 13 years before launching their planted 8km to the south, on Ponui Islandit produced from 2010. GroCo recently first ‘commercial’ wines. But with its annual - one of the few vineyards in the world,signed a deal with a UK distributor that will production running at 30,000 cases, Man O’ Matt notes, where the timing of the harvestsee a Gisborne chardonnay, in 250ml plastic War has emerged as by far the biggest - and is dictated by the tide.bottles, sold under the Pukeko Bend brand most important - producer of Waiheke wine.at major events and festivals (including Man O’ War Ponui Island Pinot Gris 2010Glastonbury) around Europe. According to the New Zealand Herald is the finest pinot gris yet from any region in 2010, the family’s “three generations of north of Hawke’s Bay. Above: At Waimauku, in west Auckland, West Brook produces estate-grown chardonnays that are consistently outstanding. UPPER NORTH ISLAND TASTING STARTS PAGE 156. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 39

ASSAULT ONTHE GREATAUSSIE BLENDMarketers’ varietal obsession pushes an icon into the backgroundGREG REIDT H E A U S T R A L I A N wine industry, those ignorant of the great service Wolf It is also worth remembering that Penfolds has provided to the industry as “only a dropped the Hermitage tag in 1990, largelyand in particular wine marketers and wine blender”. to appease the EU, which demandedwinemakers, have a lot to answer for in their Australian wine companies drop namesdenigration of an Australian icon. This has Wolf and many of the other pioneering that were traditionally “European”, suchnothing to do with the plethora of quality Australian winemakers cut their winemaking as Hermitage, Chablis and Rhine Riesling.wine labels that have disappeared under teeth on blending great wines. Despitethe weight of mega-company mergers and their efforts, we have now seen the virtual If Grange is not enough to convince winethe subsequent rationalisation of brands “disappearance” in a marketing sense of lovers that blending is best, look to thatand the disappearance of dozens of wine the great red wines made from cabernet modern wonder - the Wolf Blass Blackfavourites over the past 20 years. sauvignon and shiraz. Label. From its very first vintage in 1973, the philosophy behind Black Label has What has happened to the art of blending Looking for blended classics, we start always been brilliantly simple. In Wolf’sof wine varieties? Varietal is sexy but right at the top with Penfolds Grange. words: “It would always be the finest wineblending appears to have been designated To use the words of Penfolds: “Grange the winery could produce. It would alwaysto the rubbish bin of Australian wines. In represents a tradition in winemaking that be dominated by the noble cabernetparticular, the very wine on which Australia is totally uncompromising. Grange has sauvignon and would always be sourcedcut its exporting teeth - the blending of bypassed the fads and trends of modern from the best vineyards in South Australia.”cabernet sauvignon and shiraz - has taken winemaking and has maintained anan undeserving back seat in the rush to integrity of style true in its origins in the Over the years the Black Label has relied onproduce anything that is “varietal”. mind of Max Schubert.” the Clare Valley, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek and, of course, the Barossa Valley Wine marketers are largely to blame - and In most years of production, Grange is for its cabernet sauvignon and shiraz fruit.with them the winemakers who slavishly a blend of shiraz and cabernet. The 2001 Each year the best parcels of grapes arefollow the marketing gurus into producing vintage was only the seventh Grange that kept separate throughout the winemakingmore varietal wines. In fact, one of the was 100 per cent shiraz - the other “pure” and maturation processes before the mastertruly great wine men of the Australian wine shiraz were produced in 1951, 1952, 1963, blender’s art is put to the test.industry, Wolf Blass, is often referred to by 1999 and 2000.40 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

It seemsridiculousthat a blendof shiraz andcabernet sauvignonshould slowly drop invalue today comparedwith the halcyon days whenblending was still consideredan art.

Four Jimmy Watson winners since 1973 of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon shouldis not a bad record for the blends that have slowly drop in value today compared withmade up the Black Label releases. the halcyon days when blending was still considered an art. Yet that is exactly what Looking back over the years, it is not has happened to yet another icon from thehard to find some of our longest-living Penfolds stable - Bin 389.and greatest labels have been a blend ofcabernet sauvignon and shiraz. In the early Bin 389 has, from its inception in 1960,1950s a small winery in Coonawarra owned been a blend of cabernet sauvignonby the Redman family decided to launch its and shiraz and quite deservedly earnedown label after years of selling wines to other the moniker ‘Baby Grange’ because itcompanies. In 1952 another icon was born has traditionally spent time in the oakinto the industry - Redman’s Rouge Homme hogsheads used one year earlier to mature- a blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Grange. Yet despite its great reputation, Bin 389 has not set the world alight like its In the Barossa Valley, the might of big brother, Grange. While Grange sellsPernod Ricard is found in one of Australia’s for more than $500 a bottle from the daybiggest-selling wine ranges - Jacob’s it hits the shelves, Bin 389 struggles atCreek. The truly iconic wine of the Jacob’s around the $50 mark.Creek super-premium collection is Johann,named after the pioneer of Orlando Wines The demise of the blend is best summed(Johann Gramp) - and Johann is produced up by two young wine lovers and writersfrom shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. who have formed a new website and wine competition called “The Great Australian Another wine that epitomises the shiraz- Red”. Matthew Jukes from the UK andcabernet blend is Wynn’s Jamieson’s Tyson Stelzer from Australia say in theirRun - the original red wine being a blend promotional blurb: “The history of theof cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and merlot. Australian wine industry is hinged onAs the people at Jamieson’s Run say: “The one style - shiraz cabernet is the greatCoonawarra cabernet shiraz merlot is a Australian red - first championed in the lateclassic expression of one of the world’s 1880s as generic ‘claret’ and resurrectedgreat red winegrowing regions.” in the 1950s. The shiraz-cabernet blend is an Australian institution. This country While it is very evident that the blend championed it, refined it and still does itof cabernet sauvignon and shiraz suits better than anyone else on the planet. It’s ourmany palates, the reason why this is so is only unique, definitive red. This is Australia’sbest summed up in the words of the late national treasure of the red wine world and itAlan Young. In his highly regarded book, deserves to be recognised and celebratedAustralian Wines & Wineries, first published as Australia’s greatest red wine.”in 1983, Young wrote: “Blending normallyachieves a better-balanced wine and more To back their contention, Jukes andcomplex flavours, although in most cases Stelzer annually run “The Great Australianblending is used to lift the quality of lesser Red” competition for cabernet and shirazfruit or wine which by themselves might be blends. The results will amaze you.lacking. Cabernet sauvignon is known as a‘doughnut wine’ - indicating there is a ‘hole’ in So next time you head into a bottle shopthe middle palate. Shiraz is most often used to or fine wine store, take a lesson from thefill the ‘hole’ and create a harmonious whole.” Great Australian Red website and buy a red blend of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon - the Given an endorsement such as that from experience should prove most rewarding.Alan Young, it seems ridiculous that a blendOpposite & previous page: Courtesy of © Fosters Group.42 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 43

A BRAVEWAY TOBLOW THEBUDGETTasmanian couple dives in at the deep end -but the dividends are flowing stronglyMIKE ZEKULICH “I met a lot of wonderful passionate wine people in WA, many from diverseT A S M A N I A N C O U P L E Mark and backgrounds with no technical qualifications but they brought with them new approachesSarah Hirst come from diverse backgrounds to making wine and marketing,” she says.but they share a common love - drinking “That was a good learning curve for me,premium wine. So it was probably no especially understanding their businesssurprise to family and friends that their philosophies and how they developed theirwork-related travels eventually ended up in cellar door facilities, around the differentwinemaking and marketing their products. wine regions of the state.” Mark’s early career path was as a And the biggest challenge? “Getting sograzier before qualifying as an accountant. many different regions marketing underSarah (nee Dent), whose parents run a brand WA,” she says.mixed farm at Whitemore, south-west ofLaunceston, where she grew up, began Back in Tasmania and after her marriageher working life as a journalist in Tasmania, to Mark Hirst, the couple headed bush,Melbourne and Canberra - much of it considering station life out the back ofas a rural reporter, where about 20 per Bourke. By now, Mark was convincedcent of her time was involved with the sitting in an office in a suit was not for him.wine industry. After an overseas stintin media management, she went on to For two years, they ran a window makingwork as director of public relations for business in Tasmania but, though they werethe National Farmers Federation before successful, there was no passion in such anher appointment as CEO of the WA Wine operation compared to wine and food, whichIndustry Association, a position she held they could manage and be actively involvedfor just over two years. with through to the end user.44 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

WE’RE DELIGHTED WITH THE DEVELOPMENT. PEOPLE COMEFOR A BRIEF TASTING AND ARE STILL HERE FIVE HOURS LATER.July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 45

So in June 2009 they took a “huge gamble” Tasmania to the property 20 years ago. The can come here to relax and have fun,and purchased the small, picturesque shift was made in three sections – and it learn about wine in a non-intimidatingTaltarni vineyard developed over 20 years involved a two-week journey because of environment and enjoy fresh local producein Tasmania’s Pipers River area, 20 minutes the vegetation that had to be cut away from matched to the wines we make, alongfrom Launceston - but not the Lalla Gully and either side of the road to get the building with tastings of Tasmanian-made whiskyClover Hill labels Taltarni used for its wines. through. Its re-siting left it safe but with a from the Lark distillery in Hobart. We knew five-degree lean. we had a lot to learn given our limited Instead, the Hirsts have established knowledge, but we knew what we wantedthe Leaning Church Vineyard label and “Now we have a new cellar door facility to do and how to present our business.”brand taken from the 98-year-old wooden (built in the old tractor shed), while the oldSt Albans Anglican Church, which was church is used for weddings, christenings The Taltarni vineyard had never beenmoved 50km from Pioneer in north-eastern and other functions,” Sarah says. “People opened to the public so they had to build46 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

a commercial kitchen, establish the new Sarah says. “People come for a brief tasting time, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay willcellar door and restore the old church that and are still here five hours later.” prove to be Leaning Church’s stand-outs:had become home to birds and vineyard “The sauvignon is a juicy fruit style with anbins - “blowing every budget you could But the Hirsts understood they needed alcohol level you barely notice.”have imagined”. plenty of advice, so moved to use consultant Mark Brewer in the vineyard and Guy Other releases included a 2010 riesling As well, considerable vineyard changes Wagner to make the wines. The grapes, - a sweeter style claimed to make manyaimed “to further accentuate the unique sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir German visitors at the cellar door homesick,soil, aspect, climate and lyre trellising - about 40 tonnes - come from 6.3 hectares a plummy, spicy merlot that needs time, theof the property in its natural spectacular of their own vines, with about five tonnes of lean, wooded chardonnay also needingamphitheatre in the foothills of Mt Arthur. riesling and merlot purchased locally. time, pinot noir and 2009 bubbly. The“We’re delighted with the development,” sweeter riesling is aimed at the younger The couple’s first wines, released in 2010, market as an entry wine and for the elderly included a sauvignon blanc from the coolest who enjoy such styles. part of the vineyard, where ripening times are long. “In some years, we will not get Sarah and Mark hope to sell 80 per the temperatures needed to ripen the fruit,” cent of their production at the cellar door, Sarah says. “But in the years we do, it will be which opened at the end of November a great wine. The vineyard is renowned as 2009, while bookings for weddings have a sparkling wine producer so making table been extensive, especially in the wedding wines in some years will be challenging.” season from October to May. One bride even arrived by helicopter. Based on the 2011 Tasmanian Wine Show they got it right with the sauvignon blanc In that mode of transport, she certainly because it was awarded a gold medal would have had a good view of some of and trophy. The same wine - whose label Tasmania’s prime vineyards, including such proclaims that it’s “best with summery names as Providence (Tasmania’s oldest), salad, fresh seafood, sex and siestas” - was Brook Eden, Clover Hill, Jansz, Bay of Fires, awarded silver in a masked Perth tasting. Pipers River, Delamere and Dalrymple. Consultant winemaker Guy Wagner says TASMANIA TASTING STARTS PAGE 150. it is early days yet but believes that in July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 47

HAIL THE CAB! DAVID LeMIRE MWIt is one thing F O R A L L O U R L OV E of pinot distinct propensity to develop cedar andto talk about cigar-box perfume with age – are ultimatelyelegance and noir, our respect for the local hero shiraz, of more importance than the differences”.finesse, another and our infatuation for alternative varietal The strength of cabernet’s intrinsic characterto have the pleasures, cabernet sauvignon remains is on show in Tuscany, where sangioveseconfidence to a mainstay of the Australian wine scene, purists have bemoaned the large impactpursue it and second only to shiraz in plantings, with that even a small splash of cabernet has onexecute it so daylight third. It has had its time in the sun, the more delicately flavoured sangiovese.effectively. then fallen out of fashion, and now exists, firmly entrenched in regions where it is a However, the differences were significant48 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011 proven performer. in this tasting, and they showed the willingness of producers in Australia to Certainly it is a variety that thrives in varied allow the character of their region to shine environments. I’ve argued in this magazine through. The contrast between the Taylors that chardonnay is not as forgiving of St Andrew’s Cabernet Sauvignon from diverse climates as it is made out to be. It Clare and the Bird in Hand Cabernet from doesn’t make great wine in all manner of the Adelaide Hills in the $35-$40 category environments. It makes serviceable wine in was one example of many. Both very good all manner of environments. But for cabernet wines, but the generous, warm mid-palate sauvignon, I think the moniker of a grape that of the Taylor’s was a mile away from the can travel well is a better fit. This Winestate leafy, red-fruited Bird in Hand. tasting reinforced that cabernet can perform at a high level in climates as diverse as the Regardless of the region, though, the Adelaide Hills, Waiheke Island, the Great challenge to showcase the pure varietal Southern and McLaren Vale. character of cabernet sauvignon is still a priority. To the firm tannin profile and As Oz Clarke argues in his excellent blackcurrant fruit mentioned by Oz Clarke, Grapes and Wines, one ingredient in the I would add that a touch of leafy character, cabernet sauvignon success story as a or ‘herbaceousness’, is a part of the global grape is its strong personality, one cabernet DNA that I like to see, though where “the similarities of fruit and texture not to excess. I also value highly the ability – sturdiness of tannin, a dark ripeness of of cabernet sauvignon to make a wine of black cherry or blackcurrant fruit, and a

THE GRAPE WORLD’S GREAT TRAVELLER SHOWS ITS STRENGTHS AGAINsupreme elegance, with tannins as fine but given that a) they are young, and b) River, although Moss Wood was terrific.as they are long, fruit as clean and pure they were not the great vintages, I’m not Houghton’s Jack Mann, although narrowlyas it is persistent, flavours as seamlessly surprised that I wasn’t blown away by their missing out on five stars, was one thatintegrated as they are complex. It came quality. They were pretty solid wines as a caught my eye, long and pure and brimmingas no surprise to me, then, that the wines group, with a couple of disappointments, with blackcurrant but reined in by a mineralI favoured the most came from the cool to and some good ageing potential evident. edge. Coonawarra was under-representedmoderate regions, rather than the warmer However, there is nothing, really nothing, but well served by a lovely Reschkeorigins – a bias that the results show has from a wine quality perspective that can Empyrean 2004. The Wolf Blass wines werebeen balanced by my fellow judges. justify the extravagant prices (north of impressive, though in the bigger, warmer $1000 a bottle) of the First Growths. style. Two Stony Ridge wines from Waiheke One producer that hit the mark for me Island showed why it is such a treasuredwas Saracen Estate from Margaret River. But that is not to say that they are expensive winery in New Zealand. And for those whoWith former Leeuwin Estate winemaker Bob for no reason – their prices are fact, and that like to cut to the highlights, here they are:Cartwright in charge of the winemaking, it they change hands for such large sums isshouldn’t come as a surprise that he nails no fluke, and nor, I think, is it a speculative Most extravagantly over-oaked wine:the balance of ripe fruit with understated bubble. There are rational explanations for Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2006 (thoughelegance. Bob welcomes the trend in their prices, that are the subject for another still a pretty good drink, just could havecabernet sauvignon production that he article, but which include their volumes been so much better).sees as “getting away from overripe and that allow global recognition, the simplicity Big name that delivered:over-extracted wine”. The 2008 Saracen of the message, the primacy of Bordeaux Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2007.Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is one of in France, the ageing ability of the wines, Big name that didn’t quite:those cabernet styles that flirts with under- and the importance of status and face in Mount Mary Quintet 2005.ripeness, but won me over with its charming Asian (and Western) societies. As someone Carving a reputation: Shingleback D-Blockaromatics and juicy, supple texture. In a who used to buy a significant amount of Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (2005market where bigger is often seen as better, Bordeaux for an importer, I was one of the won the Jimmy Watson Trophy).it is one thing to talk about elegance and people on the phone to the negociants, Surprise packet:finesse, another to have the confidence to expressing dismay at the “crazy” prices, Jokers Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2009.pursue it and execute it so effectively. Bravo! and in the next breath asking how much I Value buy: Saracen Estate could have access to. Cabernet Sauvignon 2008. But what of the wines from Bordeaux?Should they not be the most elegant of So what else did we learn? The west CABERNET SAUVIGNON TASTING STARTS PAGE 112.styles? I quite liked most of the Bordeaux, continues to excel, and not just Margaret July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 49