Winestate Magazine March April 2011

MARCH/APRIL 2011 WINESTATE VOL 34 ISSUE 2 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE BAROSSA ITALIAN & SPANISH CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA CHARDONNAY MARLBOROUGH (NZ) &Italian Spanish 256 tasted whiteSUPREMACY ROLE REVERSAL Montana reverts to its roots restoring chardonnay's rightful position REDEFINING THE BAROSSA The 11 sub-regions of Barossa terroir March/April 2011PRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 BAROSSA & EDEN VALLEY - 200 TASTED Vol 34 Issue 2 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $9.95 UKP/EUR 7.95 plusChardonnay & Blends • Central & Western Victoria Barossa Valley & Eden Valley • Italian & Spanish • Marlborough (NZ)



NO.240 MARCH/APRIL 2011Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Another Bully.Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Welcome to the family.Sub-editor Mike JaenschAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Introducing the new look Barristers BlockArt Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Limited Release Bully Shiraz.Marketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Cellar door sales and tastings, open sevenTasting Coordinator Kylie Hole E-mail: [email protected] days all year round, 11am – 5pm.Printing DAI Rubicon 141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, Woodside,Winestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] South Australia. Ph: +618 8389 7706CONTRIBUTORS facebook.com/barristersblockNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley barristersblock.com.auSouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Graeme Andrews,Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins BBW88Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod Properjohn BBW88 Another Bully 1-11 Winestate 270x59.indd 1 1/11/10 11:23:23 AMQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael CooperNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected], South Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaJamie O’Keeffe - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandIndependent Magazine DistributorsInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2011 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsMARCH/APRIL 2011FEATURES R E G U L A R S32 Role reversal - Montana goes back 8 Briefs to its roots 17 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper The Montana wine label might 18 European Report with Sally Easton have vanished everywhere but in 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley its New Zealand homeland, but the 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King company itself is not fading away - 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel having rebadged itself according to 56 Grapevine its origins. Michael Cooper explains the reasoning.34 Subtleties of the Barossa 46 62 Wine Words terroirs unearthed 64 Bookworms After two years’ study, Thomas 46 Mitchelton’s new winemaker faces 89 How We Judge Girgensohn has identified and 90 Wine Investment & Collecting described the distinctive andremarkable differences of 11 sub- up to his challenges 96 What’s it Worth?regions of the Barossa Valley. From It was hardly the welcome, weather- 162 AftertasteKalimna to Greenock to Williamstown wise, that he’d have hoped for, but,and beyond, he defines them all. as Jeni Port discovers, Mitchelton’s38 White supremacy - the resurgence new winemaker, Travis Clydesdale, of chardonnay is undaunted by the deluge that’s A decade after losing its way, along turned his first vintage at the with its popularity with the public, Nagambie winery into “a tricky one”.chardonnay is fighting back against 50 Italian feasts and fun withthe tide of sauvignon blanc. a family flavourDavid LeMire MW looks at the With Winestate’s tour of France on thewinemakers whose new techniques 2011 calendar, Editor and Publisherare making a world of difference. Peter Simic looks back at our 201042 Schrapels build on their hardy tour of Italy, with its memorably 50 heritage at Bethany delicious focus on ‘slow food’ and the The Schrapel family has been around kindness and generosity of the winery the Barossa for five times longer than families we met.its wine label suggests. Robert Maynevisits the Bethany winery wherethe Schrapels have spent 30 yearsmaking their own wine after 129 years 65 New Releases and Top 40of grapegrowing. Best Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine W I N E TAST I N G S Issue Number 240 March/April 2011 100 Central & Western Victoria 104 Italian & Spanish Cover photograph 118 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley © Bochkarev Photography. 128 Chardonnay & Blends 142 Marlborough, NZ 153 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases

It’s all about innovationAmcor GlassFor more information contactAmcor Glass Customer ServicePh (08) 8521 [email protected]

Hahndorf Hill Winery Adelaide Hills Painttkitwuditeh Our Rosé has always been deliciously exotic. Uniquely created from Blaufränkisch and Trollinger grapes, it is appetisingly fresh, dry and textural. The perfect food lover’s wine! Trade enquiries NSW, QLD & VIC: Zenith Wine Agencies: 1300 883 056 SA: Melissa Stephenson 0408 896 139 www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

editorialI N T H E A F T E R M A T H of the floods in Queensland,Northern NSW and Northern Victoria, wine lovers are askingquestions about the damage to vineyards and how this willaffect the 2011 vintage and overall wine supply. This floodingis regarded as the worst in Australia since records began about160 years ago - even bigger than the 1976 floods in the northernstates and the 1956 flood in South Australia, although the 1893and 1841 floods in Brisbane were apparently similarly severe. It does seem amazing that just a year ago and a few yearsbefore that, vineyards in the great river regions were on waterallocations due to the extended drought. Sensibly, Victoria andNSW lifted these restrictions but SA left allocations at 67 percent, even while the swollen River Murray continued to rise. Nota lot of common sense there! As we all know, the industry is going through difficult times,with very low margins of financial sustainability due to endemicdiscounting by the major chains. For some, this might be the laststraw, particularly for the big commercial grapegrowers who havehad to buy water to survive during the drought. While not all have been under water, the river regions have suffered as the cool, intermittent springrainfall and short, warm periods created perfect conditions for fungal botrytis and powdery and downymildew outbreaks. Such was the frequency of this blight that chemical companies ran out of sprays, furtherexacerbating the problem. Around the country we have had similar reports of pockets of downy mildewinfestation, which is going to sort out the better growers and better wineries. Certainly, wineries which buyin fruit will be very particular this year and will reject any suspect grapes. In Queensland, many growers with low-lying vineyards have lost their entire 2011 crops because of inundation;others are praying for no more rain and a dry finish to the coming harvest. Fortunately the higher-altitudeGranite Belt region seems to have escaped much of the damage. In northern Victoria, reports are that about20 per cent of the crop has been destroyed. The regions of the Grampians, Great Western and Pyrenees, inthe western part of the state, were hardest hit. In Great Western, not considered to be a flood-prone region,Best’s Wines’ Concongella vineyard was covered in a metre of floodwater. While the total crop this year will be lower than expected, supplies from previous vintages are still high,so better marketing promotion might be the key, rather than more unwanted wine. As someone once said,“We don’t have an oversupply problem; we have an under-marketing problem.” It will be a very interesting vintage. We need to separate Western Australia as a region, which has had awarm to hot summer, with little rain, (and potentially an excellent vintage), from the east coast, with the floodand fungal problems outlined. It is not all doom and gloom, however. As always, there will be great winesproduced from this widely diverse land; the trick will be to search a little longer for the many gems that willbe available. We will certainly be doing our bit to source the best wines for you, as we have always done. More than ever, it is time to drink another bottle of Australian wine for the sake of the industry and get yourfriends to drink one also. Raise a glass for the country!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherGRAPEVINE: Please note that out of respect for those effected by the serverty of the Queensland floods,including Winestate columnist Lizzie Loel, our Brisbane Grapevine column has been held over for this issue.A full report will be included in Winestate’s May/June edition.

briefsTIM ADAMS GOES ‘HOME’ WINERY HEADS HIGHERLEFT abandoned for years, the old Leasingham winery in Clarehas been brought back to life. Local winemaker Tim Adams, ONE OF Australia’s firstwho worked as a junior cellarhand in the winery in the 1970s, is vineyard relocations duethe proud new owner, along with his wife and business partner, to climate change has justPam Goldsack. been completed. Passing Clouds has said goodbye to Tim has described the purchase from Constellation Wines its original site in Kingower,as a “homecoming”. It is that, and much more, since Tim also outside Bendigo, and is nowintends to create a new range of wines called ‘Mr Mick’s’ in firmly ensconced in its newhonour of the man who mentored him during his time at the digs at Musk, near Daylesford. “We leave behind some greatwinery. Tim started at Leasingham in 1975 and worked under memories and some tired vines,” is how father and son winemakers,one of Australia’s greatest winemakers, Mick Knappstein, Graeme and Cameron Leith, have described the move.until his departure to set up his own business, Tim AdamsWines, in 1987. At its height Leasingham employed more Established in 1974 on unirrigated land, the vineyardthan 60 people and was recognised as one of the country’s produced some stunning red wines during the ’80s and ’90spremium makers of Clare riesling and shiraz. It also made but a 12-year drought and associated climate pressures onsome excellent fortifieds. the vines sent the vineyard slowly into decline, producing less and less fruit each vintage. Tim says he intends to continue to operate Tim Adams Wines,while Leasingham will become the new home for Tim Adams The change to a high, cool vineyard at Musk has proven quiteContract Processing and Mr Mick’s wines. dramatic in climate to the two men who go from “blue singlets to very woolly jumpers”. The wines also change as the two will now concentrate on chardonnay and pinot noir. A cellar door is due to open mid-year, followed closely by the launch of a book written by Graeme on his winemaking life at Passing Clouds. BURING JOINS RIESLING TREND THE INTERNATIONAL Riesling Scale continues to find increasing acceptance among Australian winemakers. The latest convert is Leo Buring, which uses the scale to differentiate between its traditional dry style and a new released sweet style. Ristorante | Spuntini Bar Looking for somewhere to enjoy after work drinks and food? www.auge.com.au Come and enjoy antipasti in our new bar with a8 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011 wide selection of imported Italian wines, Cocktails and Drinks. 2011 New Trading Hours Ristorante Lunch - Fridays from 12pm Dinner - Monday to Saturday 6pm till late Spuntini Bar Friday - 12pm till late Monday to Saturday from 5pm till late Private functions welcome any day of the week. Contact us on 8410 9332 or email [email protected]

briefs Both the Leo Buring 2010 Eden Valley medium dry riesling and VICTORIAN VICTORYthe 2010 Clare Valley dry riesling will feature the International DECLAREDRiesling Federation’s riesling taste profile scale: a simplegraphic that indicates whether a riesling is dry, medium dry, THE DECLARATION camemedium sweet or sweet. as music to the ears of every Victorian winemaker. “To me, The medium dry style was made with a “touch” of residual Victoria is the state of the 21stsweetness for texture, according to Leo Buring winemaker Peter century!” It was made byMunro. “It still has that wonderful backbone of Eden Valley mineral diminutive Frenchman Michelacidity to give it line and length but it’s a bit richer in the mouth, Chapoutier during one of hiswhich makes it ideal with Asian foods with a bit of spice,” adds regular visits to Australia. APeter. In the future he intends to make a third riesling, a medium winemaker who knows hissweet style, if the vintage allows. mind and often speaks it, Michel went further. “I’m willing to make a bet that the most famous state for wine in Australia will be Victoria.”HEATHCOTE’S The bet, he confidently predicts, will be won due to a uniquenessHUMMING of the state that really excites this very excitable winemaker: soil.THE CENTRAL Victorian wine He expects to be around to collect because in addition to a jointtown of Heathcote is abuzz venture with Heathcote-based winemaker Ron Laughton at Jasperwith new wine ventures. The Hill, he now owns two vineyards, Shays Flat and Landsboroughpast year saw the launch in the state’s Pyrenees wine region. They both appear under theof Domaine Asmara, one of new Domaine Tournon label.the few Heathcote vineyardswith a winery restaurant open The inaugural releases, just out, combine Aussie upfront fruitseven days a week. generosity tamed with a dash of French discipline. The 2009 chardonnay is mineral-rich and textural, the 2009 “shiraz or It followed the arrival of a new cellar door for French-owned Chapoutier syrah” (Michel prefers to use both descriptors because the winesWines in Heathcote’s main street, carrying wines made locally as well will be sold in France as well as Australia) is light and spicy withas selected wines from the company’s Rhone Valley vineyards. a blueberry freshness. The ’09 Shays Flat shiraz is bright in a blackberry pastille fruity way but builds in intensity before finishing Now, the latest addition to the wine-scape is the opening of a long and dry. The contrast with Lady’s Lane ’09 Heathcote shiraz,new cellar door by Heathcote Estate. Housed in the town’s old with its sweet fruit and high alcohol kick, could not be greater.bakery, the cellar door serves light lunches alongside tastings ofHeathcote Estate wines and its sister Mornington Peninsula winery, Michel, who describes himself as “soil discoverer”, says thatYabby Lake. The new cellar door is at 98 High St, Heathcote, and in coming years he intends to discover just what Victorian soilis open Wednesday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm. can deliver.IT’S HEATING UP, DON’T LET YOUR WINE! Most people have 6 to 12 bottles of wine that should not be kept at home. Those special wines you have been holding onto for years, waiting for that special occasion to pull the cork (or twist the cap as it may be). FOR THE COST OF A CUP OF COFFEE A MONTH Wine Ark provides: > CLIMATE CONTROLLED MANAGED STORAGE > FULL INSURANCE > 24 HOUR ONLINE ACCESS > HAVE WINE SENT DIRECTLY TO YOUR CELLAR > SELL YOUR WINE ONLINE FROM YOUR ACCOUNT > MANY MORE BENEFITS 1800 946 327 or visit www.wine-ark.com.au wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsNEIGHBOURLY FEAST CURRANT SHED CHANGEOVERONE OF the most innovative events on the wine calendar is the“Dinner With The Neighbours” annual 100-Mile dinner held in SHOTTESBROOKE vigneronCanowindra, in central western New South Wales, as part of the Hamish Maguire and hisOrange FOOD Week. The main street of Canowindra is closed for partner, Emily Dowie, are thethe occasion and decorated with hundreds of colourful lanterns. new operators of McLaren’sLong tables are set up in the middle of the heritage-listed (and Vale’s historic Currant Shedcrooked) main street (designed so that bullock teams could turn) restaurant, which dates backfor a communal feast of regional produce and wines sourced from to 1916 and is adjacent towithin a 100-mile radius of Orange, including the Bathurst, Cowra, the Shottesbrooke estateMudgee and Canowindra regions. overlooking a parcel of vines. “We bought the place in Each region serves a dinner course and several leading wineries August from the Hoffmanns,from each district have their wines on offer. The event espouses the who are good friends ofmerits of the 100-mile diet, which advocates eating and drinking ours,” says manager Emily,locally on the premise and that locally produced food is healthier, formerly of The Star of Greece. “It’s really a match made intastier and better for the environment and local economies. heaven. The dining area has a lovely rustic ambience, so theThe dinner will be on April 11 and costs $80 per person (wines moment you walk in, you know you’re in for a long, country lunch.”extra). For tickets visit www.orangefoodweek.com.au. The timber and corrugated structure was originally used to Canowindra is home to several small wineries and is a great store dried fruit. The new owners have given it some extraweekend destination. Thriving at a time when many small country style (and installed a private dining room), and hung sometowns are dying, it has many old buildings that are often used as contemporary art by Penny Dowie, setting off the originalsets for period movies. The town is the Australian capital of hot beams and corrugated walls.air ballooning and has several art galleries, along with The Ageof Fishes Museum, which celebrates one of the world’s greatest An elderly grapevine shades a sunny courtyard, while the viewsfossil discoveries. Bushranger Ben Hall once held locals hostage over lime orchards, vines and paddocks have probably changedin the Royal Hotel, where you can still enjoy a drink. little over the decades. Chef Kerryn Oates’s menu includes the likes of homemade pate topped with lime aspic (the limes picked from Taste Canowindra is a facility in the town that offers the chance trees in the neighbouring orchard) and blue swimmer crab risotto.to sample up to 50 local wines from 10 local vineyards. See www.tastecanowindra.com.au. Main courses include the likes of roasted baby carrot and asparagus terrine with a spring pea creme fraiche; marinatedAUCTION FOR A WORTHY CAUSE sumac and za’atar roasted spatchcock with warm kipfler potatoes, cherry tomatoes and Kalamata olives; and char-grilled kangarooAN AUCTION organised by the family of Victorian winemaker fillet with broad beans, asparagus and peas tossed in almondTrevor Mast, the Lovell Foundation and Langton’s Wine Online butter and served with rhubarb chutney. Desserts may featureraised $14,000 towards improving support services for people warm mulberry and almond frangipane tart with mascarpone.living with younger onset dementia. The most sought-after The Currant Shed is open for lunch six days a week (closeditems were a 1985 Penfolds Grange, which sold for $576, Wednesdays). Phone (08) 8383 0232; www.currantshed.com.au.a 1990 Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos St Jacques 1ercru, Gevrey-Chambertin ($530) and a double magnum of CANCER INITIATIVE1996 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz ($289). Trevor is the formerproprietor and winemaker at Mount Langi Ghiran and the ADELAIDE Hills winery Amadio joined forces with the McGrathcreator of the Four Sisters brand. He was diagnosed with Foundation to launch the new Amadio Biljana Sparkling Brut,Alzheimer’s disease in 2006, at the age of 57. with $2 from every bottle sold helping to increase breast cancer awareness in young women, as well as funding McGrath Breast Care Nurses right across Australia. “Like so many families, ours too has been touched by breast cancer,” says Danniel Amadio. Named ‘Biljana’ after Danniel’s wife, the sparkling wine is both a tribute to her strength and a glass raised in celebration to those whose lives have also been touched by cancer. “The McGrath Foundation philosophy of ‘together we can make a difference’, was the perfect trigger to develop this special sparkling wine that will not only assist with raising money for a great cause, but hopefully help put a bit of sparkle back into people’s lives,” says Danniel. See www.amadiowines.com or www.mcgrathfoundation.com.au.10 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

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briefsWINEMAKER’S CELLAR DOOR TRIUMPHNEW ROLE MURRAY Street Vineyards has been named best cellar door in theLEADING Western Australian Barossa. The boutique winery triumphed after a four-month judgingwinemaker Larry Cherubino process that involved visits by “mystery shoppers” who sampledhas increased his workload the region’s cellar doors unannounced, assessing facilities andwith Robert Oatley Wines staff on product knowledge and communication skills.but will continue to produceunder his own label. Larry, “Our small cellar door team love what they do and are constantlywho has worked with the striving to improve the experience for visitors,” says Murray StreetOatley family since 2007, was cellar door manager Sally Lloyd. “This award is extra specialnamed director of production because it was judged impartially. We had no idea who the judgesof the Mudgee-based Oatley operation. He will continue to live in were so they received the same hospitality that all our guestsWest Australia and will commute regularly to the family’s Sydney experience.” See www.murraystreet.com.au.office and Mudgee vineyards and winery. “This is a remarkably timely appointment as we’re taking ourfirst limited-release Robert Oatley wines to market right now,”says family spokesman Sandy Oatley. “We are excited that Larryis working with us in this capacity as we’ve found his tremendouscapabilities, insight, experience and personal manner to be anideal fit to our family business. He adds depth to a terrific teamwho have produced some outstanding wines in our first fouryears of operation.” Larry will work alongside chief winemaker James Manners.HAPPY HUNGERFORD BIRTHDAY NEW CHIEF CHEF NAMEDHUNGERFORD Hill, a Hunter Valley winery that has gone through SCOTSMAN Jock Zonfrillo is the new executive chef of Penfoldsseveral ownership changes before finding stability under the guidance Magill Estate restaurant. He has worked at several high-endof the Kirby family, ended 2010 by celebrating its 40th birthday with and Michelin-starred restaurants in Britain, including Thea function at its award-winning Muse restaurant. More than 100 Restaurant Marco Pierre White, the Hotel Tresanton and Thewine enthusiasts turned out to enjoy a selection of Hungerford Hill’s Pharmacy. More recently, he cooked in Sydney at the nowpremium wines, including a 1970 shiraz from the very first vintage defunct Forty One.and a 1986 imperial of Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon. “I’m thrilled to be a part of the future of Penfolds Magill Estate Among the former Hungerford Hill winemakers in attendance were Restaurant,” Jock says. “While it will be business as usual inAndrew Thomas, Ralph Fowler, Philip John, Ian Scarborough and the short term, my intention is to lead the restaurant into itscurrent winemaker Michael Hatcher. Hungerford Hill was acquired next evolutionary stage. We will develop and celebrate theby the Kirby family in 2002 and in addition to expanding their estate best Australian ingredients to deliver a unique and unrivalledvineyards in the Hunter Valley they have also focused on the emerging fine dining experience that will mesh together modern andcool-climate regions of Tumbarumba and Hilltops in southern New classical techniques, both front and back of house.”South Wales. “In recent times, many great, traditional Australian brandshave fallen from prominence. Resurrecting Hungerford Hill to its former Magill Estate spokesman George Samios says Jock’sgreatness and beyond is our small contribution in maintaining the rich appointment “signifies our ongoing commitment to positioning thehistorical fabric of the Australian wine industry,” says CEO James Kirby. restaurant as one of Australia’s most unique and quintessentially Australian fine dining experiences.”12 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

FAMILY RESERVECABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008

briefsCELEBRITIES TASMANIAN BLENDOFF TO NOOSA TASMANIAN winery Frogmore Creek has completed itsTHE SUNSHINE Coast is the takeover of fellow Coal River Valley producer Meadowbankvenue for what has become Estate, saying that both parties see the deal more as a mergerone of Australia’s leading that creates southern Tasmania’s largest ultra-premium winegourmet festivals - The Audi company. Meadowbank Estate’s award-winning restaurant andNoosa Food & Wine Festival. function centre will continue to be run by the MeadowbankThe 2011 festival, from May hospitality team and will also become the cellar door home of13-15, will be the eighth and Frogmore Creek, which produces and sells wines under thewill be attended by more than Frogmore Creek, 42 Degrees South and Storm Bay brands.150 chefs, winemakers and foodies. “The two brands complement each other perfectly,” says First-time festival guest Maggie Beer will host one of the Frogmore Creek general manager James Skabo. “It’s a perfectFriday Lifestyle Lunches, focusing on Barossa Valley cuisine, fit. We have been neighbours for years and Meadowbankwhile other chefs pencilled in include Jacques Reymond, has been where we have always taken visiting friends andMartin Boetz, Tony Bilson, Matt Wilkinson, Giovanni Pilu, associates. We are extremely excited about the opportunityJustin North, Hadleigh Troy, Matt Moran, Mark McNamara, this provides to showcase Coal River Valley food and winesAlex Herbert, Cheong Liew, Pablo Torsdeillas, Philip Johnson, in this unique setting.”Tony Percuoco and Ben O’Donoghue. RENAMED AND REPOSITIONED Winemakers featured include Sergio Carlei (Carlei Wines),Andrew Fleming (Coldstream Hills), Michael Hatcher THE AUSTRALIAN Wine & Brandy Corporation is no more. The(Hungerford Hill) Ian Hollick (Hollick Wines), Gary Hounsell industry’s peak body is now known simply as Wine Australia. Wine(Toolangi), Rick Kinzbrunner (Giaconda), Mark Lane (Balgownie Australia chairman Jim Dominguez says the name change moreEstate), Kevin McCarthy (T’Gallant), Andrew Mitchell (Mitchells), accurately reflects the organisation’s key roles and functions, andMatt Steel (Medhurst), Kym Teusner (Teusner) and Ed also provides better alignment with its international offices, whichTomlinson (Lenton Brae). Phone (07) 5455 4455 for bookings currently operate under that name. “The name change will also allowor see www.noosafoodandwine.com.au. the organisation to reposition our image and continue toMOUNTAIN DELIGHT raise our profile within the industry, providing a perfectTHE BLUE Mountains of New opportunity to reinforce ourSouth Wales is not a region key objectives,” he says.immediately associatedwith fine wine and food, Wine Australia will be complemented by the new consumer brand,but it is the gateway to the A+ Australian Wine, which was unveiled last year in China and whichvineyards of the Central will be rolled out domestically and in other international marketsWest - Orange, Mudgee throughout this year, with the aim of telling a story and focusing onand Cowra - and has a the heritage, diversity and quality of the Australian wine industry.thriving food culture, several Wine Australia has its headquarters in Adelaide and offices in thegreat restaurants and even US, Canada, Britain, Ireland, Japan, China and Hong Kong.a cellar door. Many visitorsare surprised to discovera working vineyard in theBlue Mountains, and evenmore surprised to discoverit produces outstandingriesling. Dryridge Estateis tucked away off thescenic Six Foot Track inthe delightful MegalongValley and has a unique micro-climate. Grower Bob Tyrrell (norelation to the Hunter Tyrrells) has his wine made by talentedCanowindra-based Frenchman Chris Derrez. The 2010 rieslingis a stunner, dry and zesty with tremendous citrus flavours,minerality and zingy acid. See www.dryridge.com.au.14 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

briefsJACOB’S CREEK Bernard, meanwhile, has 35 years’ experience with Jacob’sBATON PASSED Creek, having started at Orlando in 1976 - the same year a new blend of shiraz, cabernet and malbec was launched under theBERNARD Hickin has taken then unknown Jacob’s Creek label. “I remember thinking, ‘What’sover from Philip Laffer in one this all about’,” he recalls. “It was a new style, a red wine thatof the biggest roles in the was soft and approachable on release but was still full-bodied.Australian wine industry - Of course, nowadays most Australian wines are approachablechief winemaker at Jacob’s on release but at the time it was a new and innovative idea.”Creek. Seventy-year-old The rest is history and today Jacob’s Creek is one of the world’sPhilip stepped down after best-known wine brands.20 years with the brand anda year in which he was the After a vintage working in Bordeaux in 1992, Bernard became2010 recipient of the coveted a devotee of terroir - the importance of vineyard site, aspect andMaurice O’Shea award for climate on varietal grape quality. “I saw that the most prized winesservices to the Australian came from great vineyard sites rather than great winemakers -wine industry. and we now concentrate more than ever on getting the best fruit from the best blocks.” He spent more than 50 yearsas a winemaker, including Bernard will now oversee labels including Steingarten Rieslingalmost three decades with and St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as being a globalLindemans before joining ambassador. “I actually enjoy talking to people about ourJacob’s Creek (then known wines, and letting them know more about what we do,” he says.as Orlando-Wyndham) as “Phil and I share the same winemaking values and both aim toproduction director in 1990 and chief winemaker in 1993. make elegant, vibrant wine styles that meet the needs of the modern wine drinker, so it should be an easy transition.” Wise is a family owned boutique winery, whose philosophy in the vineyard is basedon sustainable farming practices, nurturing the soil and the vines to produce excellent fruit with distinct varietal characteristics. Wise Wine Lot 80 Cabernet Sauvignon The finest parcels of dry grown Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon are selected to craft this elegant wine. Aromas of cherry, cassis and vanilla precede a palate of chocolate and fine, velvety tannins which complete the experience. This wine is inviting now, however it will reward with cellaring for up to ten years. See us at Vinitaly www.wisewine.com.au E: [email protected] Ph: +618 9756 8627 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 15

nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine scene TOP BRANDS Riley Savee, launched from the 2000 vintage. Fresh, simple and tangy, CHANGE HANDS it was designed as a “fun” wine, but until recently had few imitators. LINDAUER and Corbans are the most The surge of newly released sparkling sauvignons includes Allan famous of a dozen wine brands sold Scott, Brancott Estate Reserve, Kim Crawford First Pick, Lake by Pernod Ricard NZ to Lion Nathan Chalice, Lumina (a low-alcohol style from Matua Valley), Matua and a joint venture partner, Indevin, for Valley, Shingle Peak, Sileni Cellar Selection, Toi Toi, Villa Maria $NZ88 million. The deal also involves Private Bin, Violet (from Yealands) and Waipara Hills. production assets in Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay. Pernod Ricard NZ, which Other notable releases include sparkling pinot gris from Lindauer last year announced the decision to (Lindauer Summer) and Matua Valley, and even (it had to happen!) replace its Montana brand with Brancott Monkey Bay Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc/Pinot Gris. Estate, has “decided to refocus its wine strategy behind its core strategic MATAKANA’S BIGGEST PRODUCER FAILS brands”. These include Brancott Estate,Stoneleigh, Deutz, Boundary and Triplebank - all mostly or entirely MATAKANA Estate, which was founded in 1996 and grew swiftly toMarlborough-based - plus Church Road, a brand traditionally, but no join the ranks of middle-sized producers, purchasing grapes fromlonger exclusively, made from Hawke’s Bay grapes. around the country, was placed in liquidation in late 2010. By far the Headquartered in Paris, Pernod Ricard has sharpened its NZ biggest producer in Matakana, north of Auckland, Matakana Estatesubsidiary’s focus on global demand, rather than its large slice of the produced a large volume under its lower-priced Goldridge Estatedomestic market. The sale of the hugely popular Lindauer sparkling brand, aimed at supermarkets. It also carved out an export marketwine brand clearly reflects Pernod Ricard’s global commitment to in China. Hawke’s Bay grapegrower Chris Howell told BusinessDay.its Jacob’s Creek sparklings. Other brands sold include Chardon, co.nz he had been paid about 20 per cent of what he was owed forBernadino, Verde and Aquila (all used for sparkling wines), Bensen the 2010 crop. “Like a lot of the wine companies in New Zealand,Block, Huntaway, Jackman Ridge, Riverlands, Saints and Timara. they expanded very quickly, and I suspect they just over-extended.” Lion Nathan has been a significant force in NZ wine since 2002, whenit purchased the Wither Hills winery in Marlborough. Its joint venture VOLUMES OF KIWIpartner, Indevin, is the country’s largest contract winemaking company, PINOT NOIRoperating a 30,000-tonne winery in Marlborough and a 4000-tonnewinery in Hawke’s Bay. Indevin, which has now taken ownership of THERE are now well overPernod Ricard NZ’s huge Gisborne winery, together with six vineyards 600 New Zealand pinots onin Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay, has been contracted to produce the the market - and two newLindauer, Corbans and other wines for Lion Nathan. books on the subject. A key pioneer of Central OtagoSAVVY GETS SOME SPARKLE wine, Alan Brady, founded the Gibbston Valley winery LINDAUER (now in 10 versions) and Deutz Marlborough Cuvee in 1981. His Pinot Centraldominated bubbly sales in New Zealand for many years, but a host (Penguin, $67) is subtitled ‘Aof new labels recently hit the shelves. Rather than adopting the Winemaker’s Story’ - with goodtraditional recipe of champagne, the newcomers are predominantly reason. Brady did not set outsparkling sauvignon blancs, plus a few sparkling pinot gris, and to write an autobiography: “It’seven a sparkling red pinot noir. Lindauer Sauvignon is a spritzig a personal story of my journey into the wine industry from 1976, whensauvignon blanc, blended with a splash of chardonnay and pinot we bought a piece of land at Gibbston, through to 1997.”noir. It’s a lively summer sipper, crisp and limey. There are a few errors - St Helena Pinot Noir 1982 is credited with Sauvignon blanc and sparkling wine were until recently rarely winning the first gold medal for a New Zealand pinot noir, when itseen in the same glass, but now “sparkling sauvignon blanc is was Babich’s 1981 vintage. But Brady has crafted a detailed, wellthe latest trend”, according to Scenic Cellars, at Lake Taupo. “You illustrated, easy-to-read account of the challenges and joys involvedcould say it’s a bit of a girlie drink, but at a recent tasting here, the in establishing a whole new industry at the southern frontier.guys were enjoying it just as much as the ladies.” John Saker, in Pinot Noir: The New Zealand Story (Random The sudden surge of labels is easy to explain - what better way to House, $49.99) profiles 35 top producers, but it’s the lead-inshift surplus sauvignon blanc? The style was pioneered in NZ by Mount chapters that make his book so special. Like the “inquisitive, uncompromising, delightfully obsessed” winemakers he writes about, Saker loves pinot noir - and has researched his topic well.16 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERALCOHOL SCARE TACTICS TOTTER ON AN UNHEALTHY FOUNDATIONIS WINE under attack from academics in the Gunasekara, authors of the study, are done for 250ml of discounted cask wine,health field? “Booze cheaper than water in based at the Department of Public Health, then the wine would probably have beenNew Zealand” was a breaking world-news University of Otago, Wellington. They say more expensive than this average-priceditem at The Age in Melbourne recently. that “a glass of wine or a bottle of beer can bottled water.”For the countless people in New Zealand cost not much more than a glass of milk,who - like me - drink wine and water every and less than a glass of bottled water”. The figures in the researchers’ own tableday, the arresting claim, by then circling lead to the conclusion that the price ofthe globe, was a huge surprise. Worried about problem drinkers, Wilson bottled wine is two-and-a-half to three times and Gunasekara argue that the price of higher than the price of bottled water. And “Alcohol cheaper to buy than water,” alcoholic drinks should be raised, by most Kiwis do not drink bottled water. Tapdeclared the New Zealand Herald on its lifting taxes or setting minimum prices, water is freely available, good quality - andfront page of October 15. Astonished since “responsible drinkers” - those of dirt cheap. The researchers also concedereaders learnt that “alcohol has become us who enjoy a couple of glasses of that they compared the average price ofso affordable that it is cheaper than bottled wine with dinner - would not suffer any bottled water with the price of the cheapestwater and approaching the price of milk”. adverse consequences. wine they could find. A table summed everything up: Philip Gregan, CEO of New Zealand Journalist and wine writer Karl du Fresne PRICE OF DRINKING Winegrowers, views the study as “absolute believes the alcohol debate “has been so 43c milk (250ml glass) rubbish. It’s advocacy research of the totally captured by anti-liquor activists that 62c* cask wine lowest quality.” I agree. Why was “Very … ordinary New Zealanders have largely 64c* beer Cheap Drinking in New Zealand” swallowed been excluded … Whereas the wowsers 65c* bottled wine 67c bottled water (250ml glass) Most Kiwis do not drink bottled water. Tap water is 78c* spirits freely available, good quality - and dirt cheap. * Price per standard drink Reporters - followed swiftly by lobbyists so uncritically by a host of journalists, of the late 19th and early 20th centuriesand politicians - were all responding to a lobbyists and politicians? They failed were driven by religious belief, it’s healthstudy from the University of Otago, “Very to realise that the researchers chose to rather than religion that motivates theirCheap Drinking in New Zealand: Some compare the price of a 250ml glass of modern equivalents”.Alcohol Is More Affordable Than Bottled water with a ‘standard drink’ of wine. TheyWater and Nearly as Cheap as Milk.” are totally different amounts. As soon as the study was published, theThe publicity the study attracted reflects New Zealand Medical Association alsowidespread concern in New Zealand about Bottles of New Zealand wine typically burst into print: “Research showing thatthe popularity of ‘alco-pops’ (spirit-based contain eight ‘standard drinks’ (the amount some alcohol is now cheaper than bottledRTDs), especially among teenage girls and of an alcoholic drink containing 10g of water … is very concerning and backsyoung women, and the tragedies caused ethanol). So how big is a ‘standard drink’ the view that price rises are an essentialby binge-drinking drivers. of wine? About 93ml. It is no surprise that part of addressing binge drinking.” The Yet Kiwis drink less alcohol than 250ml of bottled water can cost more than government, currently revising the liquorAustralians and, last year, total drinking 93ml of wine. laws, says it will not increase the excise taxwas down. Of 31,777 drivers pulled over on alcoholic drinks, but is considering theduring a recent Friday night drink-driving I asked Wilson why the researchers introduction of a minimum-pricing regime.blitz, 0.58 per cent were over the limit. That compared the cost of very large glassesdidn’t stop “Very Cheap Drinking in New of water with far smaller glasses of wine. A television reporter recently purchasedZealand” gathering headlines around the “Since there is no standard size for a samples of the cheapest water, beer andworld. The Times of India declared: “Booze drink of milk or water, this was arbitrary,” wine on a supermarket’s shelves. The beernow cheaper than water in Kiwiland!” he admitted, “but 250ml fits with a typical cost $NZ1.10 a glass and the wine cost Associate professor Nick Wilson and drinking-glass size. If the analysis was 71c. The water cost 21c.senior research fellow Fiona Imlach March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWNOW BURGUNDY SEES THE VALUE IN WORLD HERITAGE LISTINGS THE BORDEAUX region of France may Fetzman explains that “there are a Mediterranean climate means that diseasehave several UNESCO-listed world heritage hundred domaines on the hill of Corton pressure is lower than in more maritime orsites - St Emilion, the city of Bordeaux, and in three villages - Pernand-Vergelesses, continental parts of the country. In thirdthe fortifications at Blaye on the right bank. Aloxe-Corton and Ladoix-Serrigny. And place is Aquitaine (Bordeaux), which isNow Burgundy is looking to get in on the we have questions which are not just for a tougher vine-growing call in a damp,commercial and tourism boost that such one domaine, for example, erosion. We maritime environment.status brings to a region, as it prepares need to decide between several domainesa bid, initially to the French government, to slow the water flow, or to build some Certified organic status is arguably oneunder the leadership of the august co- stone walls”. of the easiest of the green messagesowner of Domaine de la Romanee Conti, to communicate to consumers. PeopleAubert de Villaine. He says they have already been working generally have some idea of what they for 10 years on biodiversity issues “to think ‘organic’ means. But there are The bid is to the have the named understand how the way of viticulture in other roads that lead towards greater‘climats’, or vineyards, of the Cote Burgundy is compatible with life in the soil, sustainability. And where organicd’Or listed. This is a 50km stretch of air, insects etcetera”, adding that “we want certification considers solely the soilJurassic limestone escarpment, south to create more hedgerow corridors from the and the life in the soil (though proponentsof Dijon, running north- north-east to high point of the hill to its low point to help may consider much broader issues),south-south-west, encompassing all the wildlife to circulate”. sustainable viticulture considers themost prestigious vineyards of Cote de wider environment.Nuits and the Cote de Beaune, such as This project started last year, and FetzmanGevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, says “the work is for the next 30 years”. Such an alternative route was adopted And he hopes it will act as a pilot project 10 years ago by Mont Tauch, one of theSustainable development extends to all our activities, for example our social impactour water usage and electricity usage, and our impact on the wider biodiversity.Vosne-Romanee, Puligny-Montrachet for “other regions of Burgundy, such as leading co-operatives in the south ofand Chassagne-Montrachet. It is around Macon, or Mercurey, to manage a territory France, taking fruit from more than 2009500 hectares in total. intelligently, and not alone”. growers. Co-op president Jean-Marc Astruc says, “First we had to train the The application is due to reach the Staying in France, and staying on the growers - how they could know whenFrench government by the end of 2011. green theme, certified organic viticulture to treat. Then we used the weatherWhether or not it will help the bid, Denis is on the up. The acreage of certified forecasts to give growers the informationFetzman, director of Domaine Louis organic vineyards has two per cent of they need.” Before, he says, “growersLatour (not the negociant part of that all French vineyards. But this figure is had been tempted to treat before anybusiness, Maison Louis Latour), is leading scheduled to double by 2012 as an area signs of disease; now they’ve noticed ita project, called the Paysage de Corton, greater than the total certified vineyard is has impact on their vineyards and they(territory of Corton) which aims to protect being converted. save the money they would have usedand manage the entire area of the hill of on treatments”. To help provide moreCorton, a 1000-hectare expanse on which The French government has even accurate, local and timely information,lies some of Burgundy’s most illustrious made available an extra €6 million the co-op installed three weather stationsvineyards, notably the Corton and Corton- ($A7.9 million) over the next five years to in 2002.Charlemagne grands crus. The idea is to help this organic conversion.farm more sustainably, considering the Then, in 2007, Mont Tauch, now awider environment, natural and cultural. Just three regions account for two-thirds 1.25 million-case producer, togetherDomaine de la Romanee Conti was one of of the certified organic vineyard area, and, with 10 other French co-operatives,the first to sign up for the project. unsurprisingly, Languedoc-Roussillon including Cave de Tain in the Rhone and Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur lead the field. The warm, sunny, fairly consistent18 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

and Sieur d’Arques in the Limoux, The DW Wine & Hospitality team (above l-r):devised and signed up to new ways Tim Duval, Madeleine Crawford, Richard Phillips,of working with their lands and their Lisa Dowdy, Alan Branch and Sandy Donaldson.people. This new phase took sustainableviticulture to the next level - that of A Sustainable Alternative...sustainable development. JeromeCollas, Mont Tauch’s vineyard manager, In an industry facing environmental challengessays, “Sustainable development extends and intense competition, innovation andto all our activities, for example our social perseverance is essential.impact - a big percentage of peoplein villages around us are connected Donaldson Walsh is passionate about assisting wineriesto Mont Tauch - our water usage and and wine related businesses to develop sustainable businesselectricity usage, and our impact on the practices with alternative solutions for commercial issues.wider biodiversity.” We can assist with: Specifications are reviewed every year, • Wine law and branding issueswith new things being adopted. Water • Distribution and marketing advice for domesticcontrol, something close to Aussies’hearts, and equally important in the and international marketssummer-dry Mediterranean basin, has • Liquor licensing applications and advicebecome a core part of the growers’ • Winery and vineyard acquisitions and disposalsspecifications. Though they advocate • Grape growing, processing and vineyard leasinginter-row grass planting for reasons ofbiodiversity, Collas says that in some and management agreements.areas “hydric stress is too high, so wehave to remove the grass”. DW - Thinking outside the glass In 2009 Mont Tauch commissioned AUSTRALIA-WIDE ASSISTANCEan external biodiversity audit of its Donaldson Walsh Lawyerssurrounding areas, and has committedto educating its 200 growers to respect Kings Chambers | 320 King William Street Adelaide SA 5000their environment more and put it into the p: 08 8410 2555 | www.donaldsonwalsh.com.aubigger picture of the local landscape, tomaintain the local garrigue landscape COMPLIMENTARY EXPERTISE- scrubland with many Mediterranean Agribusiness | Self Insurance, Workers Compensation & Workplacebushes and herbs, including rosemary, Law | Commercial Disputes & Insolvency | Corporate & Commercial |thyme, juniper, pine trees and broom – andthe dry stone terrace walls and to plant Wills, Estates & Business Succession | Franchising | Insurance |hedgerow corridors for wildlife. Intellectual Property | International | Property | Taxation & Revenue To ensure compliance with the system, Proud sponsors of the 2011 Winestate Wine of the Yearthere are internal audits of vineyardsevery year, in addition to which every year20 per cent are audited by a third party.Already at least one other co-operativehas applied to join the group and adopt itsway of producing wine more sustainably - anettle the whole world is finally beginning tograsp, and not just for viticulture. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYSPANISH IMMIGRANT RAISES ITS PROFILE IN A VARIETY OF STYLESTEMPRANILLO has been around for a while grown on fertile soils in Australia, the wines suffered an initial setback. “We originallyin Australia and sits alongside a number can be light-bodied with simple red fruits. planted the D8V12 clone, which is a goodof other varieties such as sangiovese, In cool climates, red fruits and spice are clone,” recalls Frank. “Unfortunately theviognier and albarino, vying for increased the key aromas with a lighter texture. These material we got had leafroll virus type 5, sorecognition from the drinking public. It’s not move into more black cherry and become we replanted the vineyard with the sameexactly a mainstream varietal, but it has the more concentrated as the regional climate clone from SA that was clean. This slowedpotential to break through to widespread becomes hotter. Natural acid levels are low us down for a few years, but was probablypublic acceptance. Easy to pronounce, but it does have high levels of glycerine, worth the investment.” As with any newit comes in a variety of styles from rose to which produces a silky texture. Restricting grape, it takes a while to sort out the rightfull-bodied red. Could this be the next new the yield and water produces smaller berries, clone for the right region.trend, a la pinot gris? resulting in more fleshy, medium-bodied wines with better tannin structure. Narelle King and Don Lewis, the Originating in Spain, tempranillo comes winemaking duo from Tar and Roses,from the word temprano, meaning ‘early Last year, a group of producers got have been making wines in Spain sinceone’. The variety ripens a full two weeks together to promote and share information 2004. In Australia they source tempranillobefore garnacha (grenache), and is on tempranillo. They christened themselves grapes from Heathcote and the Alpinethe country’s most popular red variety, TempraNeo, held workshops and launched Valley in Victoria. What first attracted Don tooccupying 17 per cent of plantings and a website. The location of the group’s the variety was its unique tannin structure.found in many regions. It is especially members indicates that this grape variety “You can taste the chalky tannins even infamous in Rioja, where it partners garnacha, is climatically adaptable: Mount Majura the vineyard,” he says. “Tempranillo is anand is also important in the Ribera delDuero. In Spain it can be labelled under Tempranillo is an easy transition from shiraz for Australiansa number of local synonyms: cencibel,tinto fino, ull de llebre and tinto de toro. as it has a fleshy palate and plenty of sweet fruit.In Portugal it is known as tinta roriz oraragonez and is used to produce port. Vineyards from Canberra, Gemtree easy transition from shiraz for Australians Vineyards from McLaren Vale, La Linea as it has a fleshy palate and plenty of sweet Spain produces a number of different from the Adelaide Hills, Mayford from fruit. In Central Victoria we get lovely blackstyles of tempranillo. Joven is bottled Victoria’s Alpine Valley, Tar and Roses from cherry and licorice flavours.”young and usually see little, if any, oak. This Central Victoria and the Running with Bullspopular style is full of red fruits and light brand, which sources fruit from Barossa The amount of oak a wine receives cantannins and suits early consumption. Next and Wrattonbully. The wineries are often fluctuate. Frank’s advice on oak is thatstep up is a Crianza, aged from two years small but some of the names behind them it should be restrained. “The aromaticswith six to 12 months in oak; the Spanish demonstrate vast experience: Don Lewis, of tempranillo (especially from warmeruse either traditional American or French Peter Leske, David LeMire MW and Louisa regions) can suggest new oak even whenoak. Reserva wines are aged for three Rose, to name just four. there is none, and perhaps this alsoyears, with one year in oak, and, finally, explains why it is easy to over-oak. MoreGran Reserva is matured for five years There has been a surge of interest in restrained use of oak has definitely liftedwith 18 months to two years in oak. The tempranillo, with more than 260 producers the quality of Australian tempranillo in thefinal style is becoming rare, as consumers in Australia, and a number of promising last five years.”tend to prefer fruit-driven wines and after areas are emerging, including Newfive years the wine is decidedly oxidised. England. Tempranillo blends well; Mount Frank sums up the variety well. “There areExpect to see an orange rim and find Majura produces an interesting blend of many styles, but perhaps the key is a goodearthy, cigar box and leather bouquet with tempranillo, shiraz and graciano, another balance between fruit and savouriness, anda soft, silky, light palate. traditional grape found in Rioja. In true between flesh and tannin. It doesn’t have a Aussie style, winemaker Frank van de Loo lot of acid, so tannin structure is important Tempranillo seems to suit Australia’s harsh substituted shiraz when he couldn’t source in tightening it up and giving drive. I’mclimate; budding late, ripening early and not any grenache in his locality. biased toward the more aromatic stylesrequiring as much water, in comparison to from cooler continental climates, but someother varieties. It tends to be a high-vigour Mount Majura has invested heavily in of the warmer maritime regions can makevariety with big berries and thick skins. When tempranillo for more than 10 years and real crowd-pleasers.”20 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

TopWineChina 24-26 MAY, 2011 BEIJING The trulCyHinINteArnWatOioRnLaDl dTeRdAiDcaEtCedENwTiEnRe exhibition and conferenceChina will have a hugeimpact on the future ofwines. Make sure youreserve your exhibitionstand today! Book your stand space on line: www.topwinechina.com For more information, please contact George Zhu: [email protected]

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGIN SEARCH OF THE WORLD’S ONLY CORAL TERROIR AND OTHER PLEASURESHINANO, the most popular locally made Papeete en route to the world-famous ‘Newlyweds Preferred’ at the airport.beer in Tahiti, is as famous for its logo - a islands of Moorea and Bora Bora, but it’s Once we arrived at the Sofitel Bora Boracurvy vahine kneeling under a coconut worth extending an overnight stay to check Marara Beach and Private Island, itpalm - as its suds. But I have to admit that out the $US25.7 million facelift the capital became abundantly clear that my loveI’d never heard of Vin de Tahiti until I walked of French Polynesia has undergone in the object for the duration was another largeinto my hotel room at the Sofitel Tahiti past five years. over-water bungalow that allows you toMaeva Beach Resort in Papeete. Chilling slip into the clear, warm water directlyin an ice bucket on the table was a honey- A good plan is to spend an afternoon from your ocean-front verandah fromcoloured white wine boasting a world first. at the Paul Gauguin Art Museum, which dawn to dusk.“This aromatic wine comes from the only is low on masterpieces and high on textscoral terroir on Earth” claimed the label in and artefacts from the French painter’s “You have to come to Bora Bora at leastEnglish and French. much-publicised stay in Tahiti. Foodies once in your life, if only to swim with the can also while away time at Le Marche, sharks,” said the French waiter who served The wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux the central produce market, then move our nightly mai tais. While logic tells youhave nothing to fear but the story of on to an early-evening meal at Les that there are only a few types of sharkwinemaking in French Polynesia is one Roulottes, a gaggle of mobile diners that are partial to human flesh, the sight ofof those quirky, man-with-a-dream tales in Vaiete Square serving inexpensive several circling a boat waiting for you tothat gladden the hearts of wine lovers. pizzas and Chinese and Tahitian food. jump into the water is unnerving at first. TheLocal entrepreneur Daniel Auroy justifies If you feel the need for something more sharks were appeased with sardine-like fishhis crazy idea of trying to grow vines in upmarket, book a table at the Pink and were positively sedate when the firsta region with no cold season or latency Coconut. The best tables are located daredevils dived in among them.period by claiming that he was fed up on the terrace, surrounded by a marinapaying for imported French wines. This crammed with millions of dollars’ worth Some energetic types hike up theyear marks the 20th anniversary of the of yachts. 727m-high slopes of the twin volcanic peaks at the centre of Bora Bora - PahiaYou have to come to Bora Bora at least once in your and Otemanu. But we climbed aboard alife, if only to swim with the sharks. 4WD for the ride up to Bora Bora’s highest point. It was a rough one, too, on ruttedfirst vines being brought from Europe, As we boarded the high-speed ferry to tracks that add a real touch of adventure toand it was no easy road to hoe. Following Moorea, it was hard not to think of James the experience. The volcanic dreamscapeseveral years of research and testing, Michener’s comment that the island was of jungle-clad vegetation dipping down toRangiroa, a small atoll 355km from the “a monument to the prodigal beauty of the lagoon often described as the mostmain island of Tahiti, turned out to have nature”. The jagged peak of Mount Rotui, beautiful on Earth, studded with tiny inletsthe best growing conditions, thanks to between Oponohu and Cook’s Bay, is where two people could disappear for theits coral soils and salty sea breezes. The the source of many Tahitian legends. day, was certainly worth the bone-rattlingcoconut grove setting helps, too, as the A mellow mood was heightened when I journey. And we weren’t even wearing Vinpalm fronds wave over the three varietals checked into my over-water bungalow at de Tahiti rose-coloured glasses.- carignan, black muscat and italia - used the Sofitel Moorea la Ora Beach Resort. Ifto make the winery’s five wines - a red, you can resist the temptation to just flake Getting there: There are many great dealsa rose, a dry white, a mellow white and out and stare out at the straight-on ocean to French Polynesia. A top contender isa coral white. view from this thatched hut-on-stilts, you the 10-day Sofitel Resorts 3 Island Combo can rent a bike or car to explore Moorea’s offered by Coral Seas and Air Tahiti Nui. If you’re really keen to explore one of bays, waterfalls and mountains, go scuba Priced from $3389 per person, twin share,the wine world’s oddities, you can visit diving or horse riding or set off on 4WD the package includes three nights each atRangiroa for a guided tour and tasting. I safaris of the interior. the Sofitel Tahiti Maeva Beach in Papeete,preferred to stay put in Papeete, though, the Sofitel Moorea la Ora in Moorea and thesipping champagne at the outdoor bar Honeymooners form such a major Sofitel Bora Bora Marara Beach and Privateoverlooking the beach at the Maeva Beach wedge of the tourist market to Bora Bora Island. Also included are return economyResort. Most people wing in and out of that they might as well hang a sign saying airfares, ex-Sydney, with Air Tahiti Nui and all domestic flights. See www.airtahitinui. com.au and www.tahitinow.com.au.22 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011



winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKEL SIR WILLIAM MILNEVINES were planted in Adelaide as star of the first magnitude and shed a among others. Ward was mightilyearly as 1837, the year after the first radiance over the firm of Disher & Milne, impressed with Sunnyside, praisingEuropean settlers arrived. It didn’t wine and spirit merchants (hem!)… the the “elegant mansion” and “a verytake long for the first wine and spirit door to a handsome fortune stands open, beautiful and impenetrable fence” ofmerchants to follow. Among the earliest let us enter speedily.” They did. The prickly acacia which surrounded theand best known was Patrick Auld, who business was described as being “by far property and was superior to any otherarrived in Adelaide in 1842, aged 30. superior to any other in the colony, and is in Adelaide. Some time in the lateHe soon began trading as a publican encreasing [sic] every week as there are 1850s, Milne built a wine cellar, and inbefore establishing himself as a wine so many public houses commencing”. 1867 he erected a still to distil brandy.and spirit merchant, setting up shop in That year he was a judge at Adelaide’sthe rapidly growing township. A year A newspaper advertisement for Disher & wine show.later he bought land at Magill, in the Milne dated 9 October 1846 mentions, amongAdelaide foothills, where he planned a other recent arrivals, “Best pale champagne Milne had a highly successful careervineyard. He planted his first vines in brandy, in bottles” together with a selection of in South Australian politics, and was1846, the same year that he sold the other spirits, as well as “champagne, hock, elected to the colony’s first parliamentwine and spirit business. claret, port, lisbon [probably a cheap port], in 1856. Among many positions he held madeira, and an extensive variety of light and were Commissioner of Crown Lands, and Meanwhile, in 1839, 17-year-old William brown sherries”. Also noted are “a superior President of the Legislative Council. HeMilne arrived in Adelaide from Glasgow lot of cherry brandy, in pint and quart bottles; was knighted in 1876 for his services toahead of his parents. Unfortunately, his old tom [probably a gin], in bottle and wood, the colony.father died in 1841, before William’s raspberry vinegar”, not to mention ale, porterparents could emigrate, and the young and cigars. Not only did Milne produce wine but, of course, drank it. In January 1863,You will be a commercial star of the first magnitude as Commissioner of Public Works, he travelled by horse and buggy toand shed a radiance over the firm of Disher & Milne, the South East of South Australia to investigate the need for capital workswine and spirit merchants (hem!). there. His agreeable companions were the Surveyor General, George Goyderman found himself in financial difficulties In 1853, Milne moved out to a business (of Goyder’s Line fame), and the Colonial- his father’s will was tied up in capital for on his own, Milne and Co., which became Engineer and Architect, William Hanson.15 years until the youngest child turned a very successful family operation. Four Milne kept a lively, exuberant diary of21. In 1842 William married Eliza Disher. years later he retired from the business to this trip. Coonawarra winery owner PeterFatherhood brought added financial concentrate on politics. Rymill bought the handwritten diarystrain, but William’s fortunes were about more than 40 years ago from a Sydneyto change. Patrick Auld was a great Unlike Patrick Auld, William Milne’s antiquarian bookseller, and has spentfriend of the Dishers, and decided to offer contributions to South Australia’s years editing it and preparing it forhis wine and spirit business to Eliza’s burgeoning wine industry are much less publication. Milne and his companionsbrother, James. The offer was “on the most spectacular, but still worthy of note. drank copious amounts of alcohol,generous terms”, as James excitedly wrote Like Auld, Milne planted a vineyard in including polishing off bottles of claretto William. His letter continued: “I have the Adelaide foothills, at his 120-acre and champagne for breakfast, not toagreed to it and [invite] you at the same property, Sunnyside, at Glen Osmond. mention whisky, brandy, ale, sherry andtime into equal partnership”. According to journalist Ebenezer Ward, porter at any time. It makes you wonder who visited in 1862, he planted seven how they ever managed to perform their William’s role was to be the financier, acres with grenache, mataro, malbec, official duties.buyer and outdoor salesman, while carignan, and black Portugal in 1856.James would look after packing, Later, he established another vineyard Notes of a Journey to the South Easterndeliveries and the shop-floor work. to the east, planting mainly the “sherry District January 1863, by William Milne,James’s enthusiasm must have been varieties”, “Pedro Ximenes”, “Gordo edited by Peter Rymill. Available from Peterirresistible. “You will be a commercial Blanco”, and “Palo-mino-blanco”, Rymill, Rymill Winery, Coonawarra 5263, www.rymill.com.au.24 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

Vive la FranceWINESTATE WINE TOUR OF FRANCE September 10 - September 26, 2011 IN 2011, Winestate returns to France with a beautiful tour that visits most of the important wine regions in that country: Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, Burgundy, the Rhone Valley, Bordeaux and Chablis. This is our fourth visit to France and twelfth international tour overall. We have refined the tours into an outstanding combination of the best of wine, food and historical visits, with some free time to explore the old towns we visit and with restaurant recommendations at night. The tour will be coordinated by Travelrite International with Winestate editor/publisher Peter Simic as your host. It is a unique experience, combining visits to some wineries that are not normally open to the public, sampling of special vintages and meeting winemakers who are the heart and soul of the wineries. France is everyone’s first and favourite wine tour. This will be no exception!

TOUR OF FRANCE 2011THE ITINERARY an optional morning tour of the main sights of Paris. The tourDAY 1 group will meet early evening forSaturday September 10 welcome drinks hosted by PeterDEPARTURE Simic. A good-quality restaurantTour members depart Australian will be recommended for dinner.capital cities and travel overnightto Paris. It will be possible for tour DAY 3members to depart Australia on Monday September 12an earlier date – accommodation BORDEAUXwill be offered at a Paris hotel for After breakfast the tour groupclients arriving early. Please call will transfer to Paris airportfor details. to join a flight to Bordeaux, where our visit to this famousDAY 2 region will start with time in StSunday September 11 Emilion and Pomerol. ThesePARIS regions are home to many fineOn arrival early morning at Paris producers that include Chevalairport, the tour group will be Blanc, Canon, Pavie, Petrus andmet and transferred by private Latour Pomerol – their winescoach to our four-star hotel in are based mainly on merlot,the centre of Paris. There will cabernet franc and cabernetbe time to freshen up before sauvignon. Peter Simic will introduce us to some of the most important producers and DAY 5 guide us through structured Wednesday September 14 tasting sessions. There will be BORDEAUX some free time in the delightful We will travel south of small town of St Emilion. We Bordeaux for a morning visit will check into our Bordeaux to producers in the Barsac and hotel late afternoon for a three- Sauternes regions, sampling night stay. Restaurants will be world-famous dessert wines. recommended for dinner. The afternoon will be free for independent sightseeing and DAY 4 shopping in Bordeaux. We will Tuesday September 13 gather for our first Winestate BORDEAUX Magazine Celebration A full day in the Medoc, perhaps Dinner at a Michelin-starred the most famous wine producing restaurant in Bordeaux, with region in the world. We will local wines carefully selected travel north of Bordeaux along by Peter Simic. the Gironde River to Margaux, St Julien Beychevelle, Pauillac DAY 6 and St Estephe areas, home Thursday September 15 to producers such as Chateaux NARBONNE Latour, Mouton Rothschild, After breakfast we will travel Lafite, Margaux and Lynch by coach south-west to Bages. In a memorable day we Narbonne, located close to will enjoy visits to a range of the Mediterranean and at major producers under Peter the heart of the Languedoc- Simic’s guidance. There will be Roussillon region, stopping free time in one of the villages, briefly in the historic town and the evening will be spent at of Carcassone. Languedoc- leisure in Bordeaux. Roussillon is France’s biggest26 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

Vive la France!wine producing region. In the matched to an impressive YOUR EXPERT TOUR LEADERpast two decades there has menu. The evening will bebeen a major improvement in spent at leisure. Peter Simic, your tour guide, is an ideal host for this trip.standards, with an emphasis With a background in publishing and wine education for overon high-quality varietal wines. DAY 10 30 years, his wine knowledge is vast. In addition to being theMost of the production is Monday September 19 founding editor/publisher of Winestate, Peter was formerlyred wine based on grenache, AVIGNON the founding publisher of Wine & Spirit (US), manager of thesyrah, carignan, cinsault, After breakfast we travel north SA Wine Information Bureau, and wine educator with SAcabernet and merlot, with to explore the southern Rhone Regency College. He is also a regular wine commentator inmodern techniques from New region, famous for distinctive, newspapers and on radio and television. Peter recently led aWorld winemakers dominant. powerful red wines based on number of highly successful wine tours: the Winestate toursGood restaurants will be syrah blends with grenache, to France in 1999, 2003 and 2006, the QE2 Winestate cruiserecommended for dinner. cabernet and other varieties. in 2001, the Winestate tours to Italy in 2002, 2005 and 2010, We will visit Chateauneuf-du- and the Winestate tours to Spain 2000 and 2004.DAY 7 Pape, the most famous wineFriday September 16 centre on the Rhone. This DAY 12 Celebration Dinner at PeterNARBONNE deep red wine has the highest Wednesday September 21 Simic’s favourite restaurant, LeA full day of vineyard visits minimum strength of any BEAUNE Jardin de Ramparts, in Beaune.in Languedoc-Roussillon French wine and was the wine A full day of exploration ofwith expert guidance by that led to the establishment the vineyards of Burgundy in DAY 13Peter Simic. We will visit of the appellation controlee the Cote de Nuits region. We Thursday September 22some of the most important system in the 1920s. We will will travel through the famous BEAUNEemerging producers, meet visit top producers, tour the regions of Gevrey Chambertin, After breakfast we travelthe winemakers and sample a cellars, meet the winemakers Chambolle Musigny and the through the Cote de Beaunerange of the best wines. and enjoy carefully selected biggest name of all, Domaine with visits to wineries in the tastings under Peter Simic’s de la Romanee Conti. Peter great regions of MeursaultDAY 8 guidance. Good restaurants will Simic will ensure that we are and Puligny and ChassagneSaturday September 17 be recommended for dinner. invited to some fine producers, Montrachet. An optional guidedAVIGNON meet the winemakers and tour of the famous Hotel DieuAfter breakfast we travel through DAY 11 taste a range of excellent will take place early evening.Provence to the fine historic Tuesday September 20 wines. In the evening we will Good restaurants will becity of Avignon, our base for BEAUNE enjoy a fabulous Winestate recommended for dinner.three nights. On the way we After breakfast the tour groupwill stop at the wonderful Pont will travel north along thedu Gard, the superb Roman Rhone River valley to the fineaqueduct built between AD40 wine region of Burgundy. Weand AD60, and visit a leading will pass through the lowerCote de Provence producer and upper Rhone regions, thefor a cellar tour and structured Maconnais and Beaujolais, withtastings. Good restaurants will a brief stop in Lyon, the bustlingbe recommended for dinner. and impressive second city of France. We will arrive inDAY 9 Beaune, the delightful capital ofSunday September 18 the Burgundy wine region, in theAVIGNON late afternoon and check into ourA free morning to explore the centrally located four-star hotel.delightful city of Avignon, a Beaune sits in the centre of thelively centre of art and culture Cote d’Or, comprising the Cotethat was the home of the popes de Nuits to the north and Cotefrom 1309 until 1791. The tour de Beaune in the south. Theygroup will meet for a Winestate produce highly regarded red andMagazine Celebration Lunch white wines from pinot noir andat a noted Michelin-starred chardonnay grapes. Restaurantsrestaurant. Peter Simic will will be recommended andguide us through a carefully the evening will be free forselected range of fine wine independent activity. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 27

TOUR OF FRANCE 2011DAY 14 Reims, with the main producers day of vineyard visits. We will DAY 18Friday September 23 centred near Reims and around drive through the vines along Tuesday 27 September REIMS the villages of Epernay and Ay, the picturesque ‘Champagne AUSTRALIAWe travel north to Chablis, close to the banks of the River Route’ and visit two of the Early-morning arrival in Australia.a northern outpost of the Marne. There are approximately region’s main producers,Burgundy region that is famous 27,500 hectares of vines and meeting the winemakers and TOUR DETAILSfor distinctive white wines made more than 19,000 producers sampling a range of the bestfrom Chardonnay grapes. The in the Champagne region, crus. Local restaurants will be The price for the 15-night tourwines have an intense, highly although only about 10 per cent recommended for dinner. is $10,775 per person twin-charged flavour with a complex of the vines belong to the great share. Single supplement issharpness. We will visit a major international producers. DAY 16 $1500 per person. The land-producer and sample some of the Sunday September 25 only price for the tour (nobest wines under Peter Simic’s DAY 15 REIMS flights) is $8950 per personguidance. After the visit we will Saturday September 24 A free morning in Reims for twin-share. International andtravel on to the Champagne REIMS independent activity before general travel taxes and fuelregion. The Champagne After breakfast we will travel gathering for our final Winestate surcharges are additional.vineyards are located south of to Epernay and Ay for a full Magazine Celebration Lunch At November 1, 2010 they at a notable Michelin-starred were approximately $540 restaurant. A range of wines per person. carefully selected by Peter Simic will accompany a fine menu in INCLUDED IN THE a fitting celebration of our time TOUR PRICE: in France over the previous two · Return economy class air weeks. The evening will be free travel from east coast Australian for independent activity. capitals to and from Paris with Singapore Airlines. Please call DAY 17 about other Australian departure Monday 26 September cities. Domestic flight from Paris DEPARTURE to Bordeaux. Passengers will After breakfast the tour group be able to travel early or extend will travel to Paris airport to their stay in Europe at no extra connect with Singapore Airlines airfare cost. flights to Australia. · Accommodation in three- and four-star hotels with private G R E AT F O O D AN D W I N E facilities. Hotel taxes and service charges.We have found that tour members get a lot more out of their holiday if they are free to make · A full continental breakfasttheir own lunch and dinner arrangements on some of the tour days. It gives members the daily and four special Winestateopportunity to try out local restaurants - essential if they are to get to know the French - and to Magazine Celebration Luncheseat lightly or informally on some occasions. Peter Simic and the tour manager will recommend or Dinners.restaurants for each of these flexible-eating meals. Full continental breakfast daily and four · Entrances, tasting fees andspecial Winestate Magazine Celebration Lunches/Dinners are included in the tour package. special services at vineyardsThese will also be occasions on which we celebrate the food and wine of the regions. in each of the regions visited. Sightseeing and general entrance fees as detailed in the itinerary. · Tour leadership by Peter Simic, editor/publisher of Winestate Magazine. · Tour management by Travelrite International Pty Ltd, with an experienced staff member travelling with the group. · A Travelrite International travel bag.28 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

Vive la France! VERY SPECIAL EXPERIENCESFollowing the great success of previous wine toursto France, Italy and Spain, Peter Simic and the staff atWinestate have arranged for a series of very special visitsin the historic and impressive fine wine areas of France.We will visit vineyards that are rarely open to the public andsample special vintages and meet people responsible fortheir skillful production. It will be a unique time to meet thecharacters and expand our knowledge in most enjoyableand pleasant surroundings.NOT INCLUDED IN other costs at foreign exchange CANCELLATIONS. full refund of all monies paid,THE TOUR PRICE: rates at November 1, 2010. Cancellation advised more or offering arrangements to· Passport and visa fees. Travelrite International reserves than 60 days from the date proceed with the tour at a· International airport and general the right to alter the tour price of departure from Australia modified price.travel taxes. or modify the tour if any of will incur a cancellation fee of· Travel insurance. these factors change, giving $300 per person. Cancellations REFUNDS.· Sightseeing and general any passenger who has booked advised 60 days or less The tour is based onexpenses not specified in the the right to withdraw with a from the date of departure arrangements that do not allowitinerary. full refund of monies paid. No from Australia will result in for any refunds in respect of· Items of a personal nature. alteration to the tour price can be the loss of all monies paid. sightseeing, accommodation,· Additional travel arrangements made within 60 days of departure Travel insurance is strongly meals, airfare or other services– these will be quoted for from Australia. recommended to cover the not utilised after the tour hasseparately. cost of cancellation fees that commenced. DEPOSITS AND PAYMENTS. could result from a death inGENERAL INFORMATION A deposit of $500 per person is the family, illness, etc. TRAVEL DOCUMENTS.AND BOOKING CONDITIONS required at the time of booking. All passengers will need a Full payment will be required 60 MINIMUM TOUR NUMBERS. valid passport. PassengersTOUR OPERATOR. days before departure. The tour has been priced holding other than anTravelrite International Pty Ltd on the basis of a minimum Australian passport should(ABN 64 005 817 078) is the tour CHANGES. number of passengers having check requirements withoperator working with Winestate After confirmation of travel booked on the tour 60 days Travelrite International.Publishing Pty Ltd. arrangements, one change before departure. Travelrite to travel arrangements will International reserves the right BAGGAGE.TOUR PRICES. be provided free of charge. to cancel the tour if insufficient Economy-class passengersPrices are based on airfare, general Subsequent changes will incur a passengers have booked by 60 qualify for a 20kg airlinetransport, accommodation and fee of $25 for each change. days before departure, giving a baggage allowance. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 29

TOUR OF FRANCE 2011Vive la France!CHANGES TO THE whether negligent or otherwiseTOUR ITINERARY. of those carriers, hoteliersTravelrite International reserves or other persons providingthe right to change the tour services in connection withitinerary to fit in with operational the tour over whom we haverequirements. Any change no direct or exclusive control.will be replaced with similar We do not accept responsibilityarrangements with an equal or for any injury, damage, loss,greater value. delay, change of schedule, or any other events that areRESPONSIBILITY. beyond our direct control,Travelrite International Pty Ltd such as, but not limited to,(ABN 64 005 817 078 Licence war, terrorism, flood, fire,No 30858) is the tour organiser. civil disturbance, acts of God,Travelrite International acts acts of government or anyonly as an agent for passengers other authorities, accidentsin making arrangements with to or failure of machinerycarriers, hoteliers and others or equipment, or industrialfor the tour. As a result, we actions. The passage contract incannot accept liability for any use by the carriers concerned,act or omission whatsoever, when issued, shall constituteCOMFORTABLE TOUR HOTELS the sole contract between free on 1800 630 343. the transportation companies Travelrite International Pty Ltd. We have carefully selected well-located three-star hotels or firms and the purchasers ABN 64 005 817 078. (very comfortable or comfortable Michelin rating) that of these tours. Baggage is at Licence No. 30858 provide good value for money. All have clean, comfortable owners’ risk throughout the E-mail: [email protected] rooms with private facilities, and some will provide an tour. The contract between enjoyable experience of ‘European style’ accommodation passenger and Travelrite ABOUT TRAVELRITE rather than the uniformity of standardised modern hotels. International shall be construed INTERNATIONAL in accordance with the laws of Travelrite International Pty Ltd the State of Victoria. is a well-established travel company that has been HOW TO BOOK operating in the eastern suburbs Bookings can be made by sending of Melbourne for 32 years. It full names and addresses of is fully licensed and has two intending tour members with a fully accredited IATA offices, deposit of $500 per person to: at Heathmont and Balwyn. It directly represents the major Travelrite International Pty Ltd airlines of the world and all 298 Whitehorse Rd major domestic and international Balwyn 3103 Victoria tour operators. It has been operating successful tours for Further information and booking more than 25 years. Travelrite forms can be obtained by International is a full member telephoning Travelrite International of the Australian Federation of Pty Ltd on (03) 9836 2522 or toll- Travel Agents – AFTA.30 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

White night? Whatever you favour, at Sip’n Save Cellars you’ll find a white that will make your night. Or day.Alberton Hotel Alberton Glenelg North Fine Wines Glenelg Lincoln Cellars Port Lincoln OG Hotel Klemzig Royal Hotel TorrensvilleArkaba Hotel Fullarton North Maid of Auckland Old Spot Hotel Salisbury Sip’n Save Cellars UnderdaleBarossa Brauhaus Angaston Glynde Hotel Glynde Edwardstown Heights Sip’n Save Cellars West BeachBelair Hotel Blackwood Great Northern Hotel Port Lincoln Marion Hotel Mitchell Park Parade Cellars Norwood South Eastern Hotel Mt GambierBlue Gums Hotel Fairview Park Hutt Street Cellars Adelaide Marryatville Hotel Marryatville Pastoral Hotel Port Augusta St Peters Cellars St PetersBritannia Hotel Norwood Ian’s Western Hotel Port Augusta Mount Gambier Hotel Mt Gambier Port Noarlunga Hotel Stirling Hotel StirlingChalla Gardens Hotel Lakes Resort Hotel West Lakes O’Sullivans Beach Liquor Store Port Noarlunga Torrens Arms Hotel KingswoodCroydon West Largs Pier Hotel Largs Bay O’Sullivans Beach Renmark Hotel Renmark Victor Hotel Victor HarborClark’s Cellars Barmera Waikerie Hotel WaikerieCriterion Hotel Gawler Sip’n Save supports the responsible service of alcohol. Wellington EU CellarsCross Keys Hotel Cavan North AdelaideFeathers Hotel BurnsideFonthill Cellars Prospect Come in and nose around. SA’S LARGEST CEL32117267FPWINE INDEPENDENT LIQUOR GROUP

ROLE REVERSALMontana goes back to its roots to become Brancott EstateMICHAEL COOPER The idea of marketing New Zealand wines “resources and significant long-term in the US under exactly the same name as investment globally, to leverage the powerT H I R T Y Y E A R S after Montana wines the state of Montana, in the north-west of of a single, premium brand of wines for our the country, was simply out of the question. export markets”.began to penetrate key world marketsand 50 years after Montana became a America’s fourth-largest state has its own, He also thinks the Brancott Estate brandhousehold name in New Zealand, the distinctive wine industry. The producers “resonates with consumers”, since itaxing of the famous wine brand last year buy most of their grapes from Washington, creates a link between the company’stook consumers by surprise. But Patrick Oregon and California, but some also wines and its sweeping Brancott EstateMaterman, Pernod Ricard NZ’s chief have small vineyards. The state’s wines site, on the south side of the Wairauwinemaker, is excited by the bold move “to also often reflect the use of chokeberries, Valley, where in 1975 Montana plantedtake Montana back to its roots to become huckleberries and honey, and are sold Marlborough’s first sauvignon blancBrancott Estate - the vineyard where we under such brands as Farm Dog Red and vines. The debut 1979 vintage of Montanacreated Marlborough sauvignon blanc by Firehole Sauvignon Blanc. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc was theplanting the first grapes in the region over region’s first sauvignon blanc (although not30 years ago.” Pernod Ricard NZ, which now exports New Zealand’s first - that honour goes to most of its output, believed the time Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc 1974, made Pernod Ricard NZ - known until 2004 as had come to stop marketing its wines from grapes grown in Auckland).Montana Wines, and between 2004 and internationally under different brands.2006 as Allied Domecq Wines NZ - for “Something had to be done before we “Brancott Vineyard is not only the homemany years marketed its wine in New ended up with a lot of confusion about of Montana’s flagship MarlboroughZealand, Australia, the UK and elsewhere our name in a global sense,” says Fabian sauvignon blanc [its prestigious ‘B’under the Montana label, while selling the Partigliani, the company’s managing Brancott Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc],same wines in its fast-expanding US market director. Fabian believes selection of it is our original Marlborough vineyardunder a different brand, Brancott Estate. the name Brancott Estate has focused and where sauvignon blanc was first32 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

THE ONES WHO HAVE BEEN WITH THE COMPANY FOR A LONG TIME STILL FEEL IT IS MONTANA. THE BRAND IS STILL ALIVE.planted in Marlborough,” says Fabian. to change the company’s name from long known as Montana Marlborough“The provenance and authenticity Brancott Montana to Allied Domecq NZ heralded Winery, had become the Brancott Winery.Estate provides, supported by the history, the end of an era. “There is a sadness And since the firm bought its major rival,heritage and industry leadership of that the name people have worked for and Corbans, in 2000, it has had other famousMontana, offers a brand name with great built is changing,” Gerry Gregg, still the Marlborough wine brands in its portfolio -future potential and this change was a company’s national wineries manager, notably Stoneleigh.logical choice when we were evaluating observed at the time. He joined Montanaour global brand strategy.” in 1976. “But I guess the ones who have Gerry Gregg told the Marlborough been with the company for a long time still Express that he approves of the new name, In the early days, nestled on a hillside in the feel it is Montana. The brand is still alive.” because of its strong links to Marlborough.Waitakere Ranges, West Auckland, Montana “It’s an iconic vineyard, very picturesque…(montana is Spanish for mountain) was the The Montana label still survives in New and it’s our place.”highest vineyard in the land. The founder, Zealand, but only on lower-priced wines,Ivan Yukich, a Croatian immigrant, is believed such as Montana Gisborne Chardonnay When Pernod Ricard NZ announced itsto have sold his first wines in 1944. In the - and the words ‘by Brancott Estate’ are sponsorship of the Rugby World Cup 2011,1960s, with his sons, Frank - a far-sighted and now run under the Montana brand. The to be staged in New Zealand, it was the firsttireless entrepreneur - and Mate - a viticultural Montana Reserve range and the top, ‘letter NZ-based company to do so. The winesspecialist - at the helm, Montana embarked series’ wines, such as Montana ‘T’ Terraces poured will all be from Brancott Estate.on a crash expansion program. During the Marlborough Pinot Noir, have all been Fabian Partigliani says the sponsorship is a1970s, Montana replaced Corbans as the rebranded as Brancott Estate. key example of the type of global investmentcountry’s biggest winery. the company will be able to put behind The power of the Montana brand had Brancott Estate, as a strategic wine brand However, the latest move reflects a steady also been declining in other areas of the in Pernod Ricard’s global portfolio.drop in importance of the name Montana company’s operations. Pernod Ricard NZ’sover the past decade. The decision giant production facility south of Blenheim, MARLBOROUGH TASTING STARTS PAGE 142. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 33

BSUABRTOLESTSIAESTOERFRTOHIRESThe distinctive and remarkable differences of 11 sub-regionsTHOMAS GIRGENSOHNSUDDENLY, TERROIR is everywhere. The terroir of All that vine roots need to take up from the sub-regions the soil for growth is water and dissolvedWinemakers talk about it, as do wine critics has a significant mineral ions. The notion that flavourand even wine consumers. But there has influence on components are directly transferred frombeen no systematic review of the impact the flavour and the soil to the grape is unproven. Yet manyof terroir in Australia. What is it? What structure of wine tasters believe they can detect soildoes it do? the grapes, and characteristics in wine. ultimately on I have studied the impact of terroir on the wines. The Barossa Valley region is approximatelyshiraz in the Barossa Valley for the past two 32km from Williamstown in the south toyears. It is the best-known Australian wine The final product - the wine - is the result Koonunga in the north and 15km from theregion internationally, and shiraz is the most of terroir, viticulture and winemaking. eastern slopes to the region’s border in thewidely grown variety there. I have talked Terroir will affect the wine irrespective west. Yet there are significant differencesto many winemakers and viticulturists, of other factors. In the past, winemaking within it. The elevation varies from 180m atstudied maps and carried out structured and branding have been regarded as the Lyndoch to 400m at Moppa and the easterntastings, in particular from barrels made dominant factors in Australia. This is partly slopes. Average rainfall varies by over 30by the same winemaker but from fruit of the result of the historical separation of per cent. The soil is incredibly varied, duedifferent vineyards. grapegrowing and winemaking, and partly to the age of the land. the result of the allure of the ‘star’ winemaker. The result? I believe the impact of But the pendulum is swinging back. In reviewing this data, as well asterroir is significant. This is great news interviewing Barossa winemakers, itfor winemakers and consumers alike. How then does terroir influence wine? became clear that there are four distinctiveWinemakers who wish to emphasise The science on this is remarkably vague. sub-regions. I call them Central Valley,terroir can produce a differentiated and Lyndoch/Williamstown, Western Ridge,therefore rarer wine, and consumers can and Northern Barossa. The Centralsystematically explore different aspects of Valley is formed by the Para River and isBarossa shiraz. characterised by alluvial soils. Lyndoch/ Williamstown is the southern extension of Terroir is not simply ‘terrain’. I define it the Central Valley, but has different climaticas the sum total of environmental factors and soil conditions. The Western Ridge isinfluencing the growth of the grapevine, the undulating area from the Central Valleyand hence its grapes. The key factors towards the west. The Northern Barossa isinfluencing terroir are temperature and the very flat area north of the Sturt Highway.temperature range; moisture (rainfall andwater-holding capacity); and soil.34 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011



I have further subdivided the following summer afternoons. This leads to a more be rich and intense, with tannins that arefour regions, as the terroir within each gradual ripening process than on the valley silky and not too powerful.shows significant differences. floor. As a result, the fruit colour is not as deep and the wines are not as juicy as Gomersal is a large plain, and quite hot. Central Valley: Central Valley South (1), those from the valley floor. Wine from this area has a more concentratedCentral Valley North (2), Eastern Slopes (3). and riper flavour than wine from the Central Lyndoch has the lowest elevation in the Valley, but significantly less richness than Lyndoch/Williamstown: Lyndoch (4), Barossa Valley region, so the grapes ripen Marananga/Seppeltsfield wine. To date,Williamstown (5). early. The wines tend to be quite ripe, and grenache has a higher profile than shiraz to have lush fruit flavours without being in this sub-region. Western Ridge: Marananga/Seppeltsfield overly big. They are aromatic, perfumed,(6), Gomersal (7), Greenock (8). soft and often quite elegant. Tannins are The soils of Greenock are quite rocky and fine, but take a back seat. The fresh and shallow. Its wines are full-bodied and rich, Northern Barossa: Moppa (9), Koonunga/ aromatic flavours are probably due to the but not as big as Marananga/SeppeltsfieldEbenezer (10), Kamimna (11). high levels of humidity in this area. wines. Tannins tend to be firmer and coarser than in its southern neighbour’s wines as well. The grapes from Central Valley South tend Williamstown has the highest rainfall, atto ripen early. The wines are less astringent more than 650mm a year. The climate is also Moppa is the undulating terrain east ofand show less extraction than those from cooler because of the higher elevation. The Greenock. The key soil characteristic here,other parts of the Barossa. Fruit flavours vary wines show red colours and cherry flavours, as in the rest of the northern Barossa, isfrom red berries to plum. Tannins stay very often with earthy and eucalypt characteristics. the layer of ironstone, with its strong water-much in the background. Most shiraz from The finish is generally not very tannic. holding capacity. The shiraz grown near thethis area is gentle and soft. Wine of lesser hilltops is quite concentrated and tannic;quality can be quite fruity. The grapes of Marananga/Seppeltsfield that from the valleys shows more aromatics get incredibly ripe, as a result of the and softer tannins. Central Valley North is slightly higher, has reduced canopy - itself due to generally10 per cent less rainfall and is essentially eroded soil - and the gentle slopes. The The flat Koonunga/Ebenezer region isflat. Excellent wines from this area combine berries are small and have a high pulp the hottest and driest in the Barossa, withpurity of fruit, elegance and balance. As to juice ratio. The rocks in the soil may cooler nights. Ripening here tends to beone moves north, the wines become richer, contribute to temperatures remaining later than in the Central Valley. The berriesbased on strong plum and blackcurrant fruit. relatively high at night. The wines tend to are dark, ripe and very tannic. Flavours include chocolate, mocha and licorice. The Eastern Slopes have vineyards athigher elevation. The soil texture is lighterand the area has cool gully breezes in the36 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

9 10 8 11 6 2 7 3 1 4Shiraz from the best vineyards in this sub- 5region has an outstanding ability to age. Photography courtesy of SATC/Adam Bruzzone. And finally Kalimna, where the celebrated‘mother vineyard’ of Grange is located. Thissmall area consists of a series of sand dunes.Wines from this sub-region are aromatic andlifted with soft spices; they are quite differentfrom those from the rest of the northernBarossa. The wines have great length. The terroir of the sub-regions has a significantinfluence on the flavour and structure ofthe grapes, and ultimately on the wines.Experienced and educated palates candetect the differences described above, soAustralian winemakers can build on this ‘senseof place’. Over time, increased consumerknowledge will lead to more informed andcareful choices. The ever-larger number ofsingle-vineyard offerings from the BarossaValley is an early indication of this trend. *Dr. Thomas Girgensohn migrated toAustralia from Germany in 1983. Aftera career in management consulting heis now holding a number of companydirectorships. A more detailed analysis ofthe Barossa sub-regions and their wines,as well as detailed maps, will be providedin his forthcoming book, Barossa Terroir. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 37



white supremacy DAVIDLeMIREMWNew approach is restoringchardonnay to its rightful positionWHEN IT COMES TO charting the blanc, brimming with self-assurance, has plied its overt charms to devastating effect.fortunes of grape varieties in the Australian The irony, though, is that while chardonnaywine market, a decade is a long time. Take, has slipped in the popularity charts thatfor example, the contrasting evolution of are fed by barcode scanners at retailchardonnay and sauvignon blanc. Ten outlets, it has regained credibility in a hostyears ago, chardonnay comfortably outsold of other places, including wine shows andsauvignon blanc, with only a few forward newspaper columns but, most importantly,scouts from the twin islands making the in vineyards and wineries. When it comes toinitial forays of what would become a full- the top end of Australian wine, chardonnayscale sauvignon invasion. Despite the fall is driving a lot of the excitement.from grace of the ‘unwooded chardonnay’phenomenon, chardonnay was still leading The fact that it is grown in so manythe way for white wines in volume terms, diverse regions, from the chill of northernwith cheap and moderately cheerful France to the desert of Mendoza, hasexamples selling well at home and away. given chardonnay multiple personalities. But the fundamentals remain, chardonnay Ten years on, the market dominance is relatively low in aromatics; it doesn’tof chardonnay has ended as sauvignon jump out of the glass like sauvignon blanc. Chardonnay has some mid-palate richness of texture that is apparent even when grown at the cool margins of climate in places such as chablis. It can have high acidity, but the acid drops quickly when it ripens. It is also an acidity that doesn’t have the harshness that sauvignon’s acidity can present, nor the long seam of firm and fine acid that riesling relies on. There’s also chardonnay’s affinity with malolactic fermentation (which softens the acidity and adds textural and flavour complexity) to consider, and likewise its ability to gain complexity from fermentation and maturation in French oak. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 39



CHARDONNAY Flavours are many and varied, and a whole 2009 in particular receiving wide acclaim.SENTIMENT IS A gamut of descriptors could be listed under They are also at least partly responsibleFADING MEMORY. numerous categories such as floral, citrus, for chardonnay’s renaissance as a varietyBUT THERE ARE stone-fruits, spice, cream, and nuts. that is exciting consumers and trade alike.STILL A LOT OFCONSUMERS Rewinding a decade once again, and For a chardonnay fan such as me - as farOUT THERE WHO one of the criticisms leveled at Australian as I’m concerned it is the greatest whiteHAVEN’T FORGIVEN chardonnay was that it was too fat and grape of all - the interest in chardonnayCHARDONNAY FOR oaky. Excessive ripeness, injudicious and the serious efforts going into makingITS PREVIOUS SINS. malolactic fermentation and too much better chardonnay are welcome news. new oak were making wines with oodles It is also nice that the Anything But of peaches, cream, and oak flavour, but Chardonnay sentiment is a fading memory. lacking freshness, zip and drive. From But there are still a lot of consumers out those failings has come the impetus to try there who haven’t forgiven chardonnay new techniques, to make wines that can for its previous sins. That is a shame, as age, and to toss out the old rulebook. the quality is going up fast. The vines are getting older, and we’re learning lessons Leading the charge has been winemakers about where chardonnay really works well. such as Michael Dhillon at Bindi in the Macedon Ranges, along with Dave One of the tough lessons is that while Bicknell, Mac Forbes, and Steve Webber chardonnay may be forgiving in the winery at Oakridge, Mac Forbes, and De bortoli, and adaptable to various climes, it won’t all in the Yarra Valley, and Sandro Mosele work everywhere. In fact, I’m not sure it’s at Kooyong and Tom Carson, now with as adaptable as it’s made out to be. The Yabby Lake, both on the Mornington list of regions in Australia where top-notch Peninsula. They’ve embraced techniques chardonnay is being made is quite short, and such as earlier picking, pressing whole the variety’s alleged ability to be grown nearly bunches rather than crushing the grapes, anywhere is, in my view, one reason that it fell using malolactic fermentation sparingly, from favour. It is only mediocre chardonnays if at all, and reducing their lees stirring. that can be grown nearly anywhere. All these techniques are aimed at making wines that have fresh acidity, and a To now really part ways with the accepted tightness of structure as opposed to wisdom, I put it to you that for the purposes of opulent fruitiness. making genuinely outstanding chardonnay, it is a variety as climate- and site-sensitive For some tasters these wines will as pinot noir. A small number of regions appear too austere and lacking in flesh make excellent chardonnay; likewise with and generosity, and that can be a pinot noir. Happily, chardonnay is now being danger with these styles. Pushing these given the attention and the care, love and boundaries to make more restrained obsession that pinot noir has had for years, styles will result in some wines that miss and the results are starting to show. the mark. Nevertheless, the wines are garnering some strong reviews, with CHARDONNAY TASTING STARTS PAGE 128. Bicknell’s Oakridge 864 Chardonnay March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 41

30 Vintages, OR PERHAPS IT’S 159 ROBERT MAYNE SCHRAPELS BUILD ON THEIR HARDY HERITAGE AT BETHANY Above: Brothers Robert Shrapel (left) and Geoff Schrapel. Right: Bethany vineyards. Photography courtesy of Bethany Wines & SATC. 42 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

YOU HAVE TO ADMIRE THEdetermination of the Schrapel family ofthe Barossa Valley. They’ve had the guts,grit and gumption to stick it out for 159years. So many other Australian familywinemakers have gone under, died outor sold up as one generation succeededanother. But not the Schrapels. Like many of the Barossa’s Silesianfounders, they’re made of sterner andmore determined stock. They haveweathered the droughts and hard times,and the swings and roundabouts ofeconomic cycles and the vine pulls whichsaw so many old shiraz and grenacheplantings disappear. The winery itself is celebrating 30 yearsof operation this year. It’s surprising thatthe family took so long to work out that adollar’s worth of grapes ends up as sevendollars worth of wine - farmgate addedvalue makes sense. When they decided to start turning theirown grapes into the finished productthey chose a spot overlooking theirprincipal vineyards to build a winery - anold quarry which contributed much of thestone for the Barossa Valley’s houses,churches and other historic buildings.That was in 1981.March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 43

OUR AIM IN LIFE IS TO LIVE WELL, PROVIDEFOR OUR CHILDREN, CARE FOR THE LANDAND HAND OUR WINERY AND VINEYARDSON TO OUR NEXT GENERATION IN A BETTERPOSITION THAN WHEN WE STARTED. Today the company is controlled by When they crushed two tonnes of shiraz They draw their fruit locally, from the EdenGeoff and Lesley Schrapel (and their and riesling in 1981 they had a vision, Valley and patches of chardonnay anddaughter Tania) and Geoff’s brother expressed today by both brothers: “We cabernet sauvignon on Kangaroo Island.Robert and wife Anna. Geoff is 63 and knew we wanted to create a total Barossaoversees management and marketing wine experience and, in doing so, improve The Bethany cellar door is a cosy retreat(helped by Tania, 39) and Robert, 59, the quality of life of our customers, our with a few things you won’t find in manylooks after winemaking and viticultural friends and family. Our aim in life is to live others. The view over the Barossa isoperations. It’s a sweet recipe for well, provide for our children, care for the spectacular (especially if you have thesuccess. On their 30th anniversary they land and hand our winery and vineyards on energy to climb to the top of the hill behindare producing around 25,000 cases of to our next generation in a better position it). And there are a few wines here thatwine - about one third each to online than when we started.” are not available elsewhere, includingand mail order sales (plus cellar door), a delightful 2008 Eden Valley rieslingone third to national retail sales and the These are goals they seem well on the (about $28).remainder to export markets (UK, US way to achieving. You certainly get thatand several other key markets). This feeling when you experience the cellar I have often pondered what it is thatall equates to a turnover of around $3 door tasting, as I did a month or so before makes family wineries different experiencesmillion a year. the 2011 vintage. The range of wines from family butcheries, bakeries and is comprehensive and well packaged. candlestick makers. The answer is almost always the product - the tasting experience,44 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

the ambience and the personal stories putting this wine in the same pantheon the shiraz and the 2006 grenache (aboutbehind the grapes and the winemaking. as Grange, Burge Meshach and Orlando $20) made from vines between 25 and Centenary Hill wines. 40 years old. It’s a great pleasure to see The biggest-selling Bethany wine is, that there is still some grenache in theunsurprisingly, the chardonnay. It’s lightly It’s also encouraging to see the Schrapels ground, much of it as “bush vines” - thewooded and, like most of their other wines, ageing their other reds, including the 2006 unsupported plantings that make pickingwell balanced and fruit-driven, the grapes shiraz (about $30), a wine with many flavour it such back-breaking work, yet yield suchcoming from the Barossa foothills and from layers and the potential to age at least sweet fruit flavours.cooler Eden Valley. I liked it very much and another eight to 10 years.it is around $20 or so a bottle. The infectious enthusiasm of the Schrapel The Schrapels’ Bethany Wines has a family gets to you. They are proud of their The Bethany range hits its stride with lot going for it, both at a personal level - extensive range and their charming home inshiraz. The flag bearer is the 1998 GR they’re a friendly, welcoming bunch - and the old quarry at the outskirts of the Barossa(Geoff and Robert), about $75 - a great big in wine quality, which is first rate, from Valley. A visit is highly recommended.whopper wine with 14.3 per cent alcohol, the elegance and ageing potential of themade from vines between 40 and 60 years Barossa rieslings though the semillon and And by the way, a happy 30th birthday toold. All the usual fruits and flavours you’d SSB wines, and on to the reds, particularly them. Or is it happy 159th?expect … quite an extraordinary, richred. American oak completes the picture, BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY TASTING STARTS PAGE 118. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 45

UNDADUBEYNLUTTHEGDEE JENI PORT Mitchelton’s new winemaker faces up to his challenges“WHAT A WELCOME!” vintage at Mitchelton. “It’s going to be a It is an open secret that Mitchelton is up for tricky one.” Still, young Travis is the man sale - has been for some years.Winemaker Travis Clydesdale had been for the job. He knows the seasons well upat Mitchelton just four months but as Nagambie way, even if he does scratch his Travis is aware that his new role may be akinthe pleasant soaking rains of spring head to remember one as wet and difficult to that of the captain of a sinking ship. Sinceturned into the big wet, he found himself as before the 2011 harvest. 2004 Mitchelton has had three winemakers.contemplating a challenging 2011 vintage, Being the latest, he wants to make his mark.one of the most daunting in his career. And he definitely knows his way around “My memories are etched with Mitchelton the Mitchelton winery. His father Mark has as a very different brand,” he says. “It was The summer rains brought humidity been cellar manager at Mitchelton for more kicking major goals when I was here workingand disease to Mitchelton vineyards at than 28 years. Travis and his three brothers at Tahbilk (during the late 1990s) and DonNagambie in north-eastern Victoria, as it spent school holidays running around the (Lewis) was like a rock star winemaker. Thedid to other vineyards across Victoria and place. One of their first holiday jobs was reality is it may be hard to return to those daysAustralia. Vineyard workers, flat out spraying manning the bottling line. but I just hope to do well.”and fighting off downy mildew, also had tocontend with vines coming out of 13 years Today, the bottling line is gone. The concrete Travis worked at Tahbilk for seven yearsof drought. Not used to rain, they exploded underground drives at Mitchelton are no before travelling over to the west to workwith growth, creating huge canopies of longer packed with boxes of stock and with in Margaret River at Deep Woods Estate.green leaves that exacerbated the disease bottling lines humming. In fact, they are all but He will look to the staples that he knowsproblem and shaded fruit needing sun. deserted. Production at Mitchelton has been the Nagambie Lakes does well: riesling, scaled back since it was sold to Lion Nathan marsanne, shiraz. But his time in Margaret “A lot more time will be spent in the and the heyday of long-time chief winemaker River has also given him an appreciationvineyard this year than in the winery,” Don Lewis, who left soon after the sale in 2004. for another red, cabernet sauvignon.suggested Travis in the lead-up to his first46 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011



“I think the area is underrated as ’90s, both Tahbilk and Mitchelton made some markets as Airstrip (marsanne/roussanne/cabernet country,” he says of dry, hard stunning cabernets that were recognised viognier) and Crescent (shiraz/mourvedre/country around Mitchelton. “I’m keen to nationally. The early Print Series flagship reds grenache). The two labels were launchedget my teeth into it.” of Mitchelton in the ’90s saw cabernet make with a bang in the 1990s but the market the grade almost as often as shiraz. has gone quiet in recent years. “I’d like to It is an under-appreciated fact that reinvigorate the Rhone blends,” Travis says.Nagambie Lakes, depending on the year, Lately, shiraz has cemented its place asoften produces cabernet that surpasses Print Series material but Travis remains The white Rhone Valley grape, marsanne,shiraz in quality. Before shiraz took off in the open-minded about the future. holds special appeal. Once MitcheltonI THINK THE AREA IS UNDERRATED AS CABERNET COUNTRY.I’M KEEN TO GET MY TEETH INTO IT.Above: The crew at Mitchelton Wines. First, he has to get through 2011. In competed directly with Tahbilk in theBelow: Mitchelton’s cellar door. mid-January the approaching Mitchelton marsanne stakes, producing a wooded vintage looked to be affected by weather, version that sat nicely with Tahbilk’s making the harvest almost certainly down unwooded, traditional style. With in quantity on 2010. Depending on how Mitchelton’s ownership changes and move it pans out, Travis would hope to start into Rhone blends, marsanne lost its voice instigating what he calls “new product and was blended away with roussanne and development”. Essentially, it means looking viognier. Mitchelton continues to release at the tempranillo grown on the property an aged marsanne but Travis has his eye and considering it for a stand-alone on rejuvenating marsanne as a popular, product. With the vines now 15 years old, earlier-drinking style. he suspects they are fully mature and producing interesting, complex flavours. He’s considering a barrel-fermented Previously, wine off the vines was blended marsanne as a point of difference to the away into other Mitchelton products but Tahbilk marsanne. this could be the year for it to shine alone. “I do like marsanne and its ability to make Clydesdale also has his sights on the good wine has already been proven in this Rhone Valley varieties that Mitchelton area,” Now, all he needs is some kind weather in 2011 to help realise his ambitions. CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA TASTING STARTS PAGE 100.48 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

“I am totally delighted with my VINTEC wine cabinet; it combines elegance and functionality of the highest order.”“The ability to have wines stored at tthwrooutgemhopuetrathtueresus mismexetrraaonrddionfacroy,uarslleowwihnigtesmaet taomkeuecph rleodwseartttehmepoeprtaitmuruem.” temperatures for service JAMES HALLIDAY Australian wine writer & critic Your Wine, Sublime. enquiries: v1i8n0t0ec6.c6o6m7.a7u8

with a family flavourFEASTS AND FUN PETERSIMIC Slow food makes a memorable Winestate 2010 tour of Italy50 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011