Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE ANNUAL Edition 2020 SPECIAL EDITION 2019 72-Page special feature The best wines, winemakers & wine companies of the year from Australia & New Zealand Annual 2020 Vintage Report Vol 43 Issue 1 2019 $14 AUS (inc GST) NZ $15 SGD $19 US $17.99 GBP £11.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB120 HKD $150 CHF 20.00 ZAR 250 The pick of the crop from over 10,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2019

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NO.299 ANNUAL 2020 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Uniquely Yorke NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Peninsula Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Manager E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator Ashlea Lowke E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Cellar Door and Function Centre 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Open 7 days 10am-5pm Copyright 2020 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic Maitland, South Australia medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Phone (08) 8834 1258 Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. barleystackswines.com ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 5

contents ANNUAL 2020 R E G U L A R S FEATURES 10 Briefs 24 PEAK PERFORMER AWARDS 2019 17 NZ Briefs 18 European Report with Sally Easton High up in Victoria’s cool-climate Pyrenees 41 WINE OF THE YEAR AWARDS 2019 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley wine region, Mount Avoca winery is 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King setting new standards in grape and wine SPECIAL WOYA FEATURE 36 Grapevine production, writes Winsor Dobbin. The The st ar wines, makers and industr y 111 What’s it Worth? Mount Avoca story began 50 years ago 186 Aftertaste when John Barry set up the winery and personalities that made 2019 such a now son Matthew has positioned the memorable one have been announced, and PLUS-THE BEST boutique producer as a certified organic we record and celebrate their achievements OF THE BEST operation. With 24ha under grapes, Mount in our special Winestate Annual Wine of the We revisit the most outstanding wines - rated Avoca bottles 15,000 cases of wine annually Year Awards. four stars and above - that we tasted in 2019. which includes shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, tempranillo, 113 Rosé Tasting lagrein and viognier. 117 New Release Tasting 122 Best of Best Value Buys 2019 under $20 26 THE WRITE STUFF THE YEAR IN THE 124 Best of Styles Wine bloggers are playing an increasing 143 Best of New Releases REAR-VIEW MIRROR 151 Best of South Australia role in promoting the wine industry and 162 Best of Victoria influencing wine purchases, reports Dan 152 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: 168 Best of New South Wales Traucki. So much so that the global Wine 174 Best of Western Australia Media Conference (formerly the Wine WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, TRY PRAYER 177 Best of Tasmania Bloggers Conference) was held in Australia Water, or the lack of it, was the main pressure 178 Best of New Zealand for the first time late last year. Bloggers, 183 Best of NZ Recent Releases 2019 some with followings of 50,000 -100,000, point for many grape growers from the descended on the Hunter Valley to get a Coonawarra to the Riverland and all regions Winestate Magazine taste for Australian wines and to understand in between during the 2019 growing season, Issue Number 90 the directions the industry will follow. writes Karyn Foster. But despite the lack of Annual 2020 meaningful rain, most regions reported that 30 2019 VINTAGE REPORT what fruit was picked was “quality”. Cover Image & Wine of the Year Awards Feature Brendan Homan A YEAR OF PLEASURE AND PAIN 163 VICTORIA: Pain was evenly spread around the country’s A SEASON OF CHANGE wine regions, writes Charles Gent in his Climate change has a way of focusing minds look at the industry’s annual state of affairs. Frosts, floods, drought, heat and bush fires and galvanising action, reports Jeni Port.Terms all played roles in shaping the nation’s wine such as “sustainable” and “low intervention” output, which saw yields down, but quality were a motivating factor for many in the local up. On the pleasure side, 2019 was the fifth industry as the push to do better and seek out straight year grape prices were up, driven by alternative methods to many of the “accepted” the strength of exports, mainly from China. ways of growing grapes and producing wines gained momentum. 34 CENTENNIAL SPARKLERS 169 NEW SOUTH WALES: A SUCCESS STORY They are very serious about their sparkling TRYING TIMES AS DROUGHT DEEPENS A “challenging vintage” was a common wines in the New South Wales Southern Highlands, writes Elisabeth King, and none comment across all wine growing regions, more so than the team at CentennialVineyards. writes Rick Allen. Mudgee, Canberra, Orange Nestled at 750m above sea level, Centennial and the Hunter, were all singing from the is geared to small batch wine making and is same songbook when it came to the drought making the most of its formidable reputation and scorching heat. In some regions grape taking out three of the top five finalists in this production was down by up to 30 per cent, but year's Winestate Sparkling Wine of the Year despite the gloom most regions reported what Awards. Its close proximity to Sydney and fruit they had harvested was of good quality. growing exports to the UK, Singapore, South Korea and China are the driving forces behind 175 WESTERN AUSTRALIA: Centennial’s success. TOUGH TIMES Compared to the 2018 vintage, 2019 was a “horror” show, writes Mike Zekulich. Widespread thunderstorms, hail, frost and heavy rains at the wrong time, caused havoc for many growers. Crop losses were heavy, but many growers were optimistic that there was quality in what fruit was picked. 6 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020



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editorial THE ULTIMATE CURSE IS THE SAYING “MAY YOU LIVE IN INTERESTING TIMES”. On the face of it, this sounds like a positive saying but like the half glass full analogy it can be taken both ways. This last 12 months has seen the word disruption appear time and time again in all aspects of society, and no less the wine industry. For the latter it has been interesting times indeed. We have seen the beginnings of generational changeover and the me-generation yet to embrace wine in the same way that the baby boomers carried the industry on its shoulders. Like all things it will probably change in the next five years, with exports filling the gaps in the meantime. Shiraz will probably be “discovered” again in 2025. These are challenging, but also exciting times, allowing for a full system override. It does appear that diversity is the new rule, with many new ever-smaller brands coming on board, and established wineries wondering how to keep up. In this Google/digital world everyone knows everything and no one in any field can rest on their laurels anymore. Young consumers are no longer satisfied with the age old “provenance” tag to buy wines, without any evaluation required, but now ask: “how did you go with your wines from the last vintage and who said so?”. Also they are well aware of who “runs with the hares and hunts with the hounds”, who are the wine critics and who are the sellers of the wines, and increasingly they are aware as to who does both, awarding a wine a high rating and then surprise-surprise offering a \"discounted\" offer to buy them through the critic/reviewer. Interesting! We are not in favour of the 90-point system as it appears that 94 is the new 90 and the pressure from the trade to go higher is enormous. If everyone wins a prize, what is that prize worth? However the great news is that in the past few years of struggle Australian and New Zealand wineries have excelled in making even higher quality wines, and the consumer has never had it so good. If now is not the time to buy a few dozen of your favourite brands when is? Think of it as an investment. If you are wrong, guess what, you can still drink the stuff and impress your friends with older vintages. In this issue we are proud to present to you our top wines of the past 12 months from around 10,000 judged, listing all the four-star wines (silver medal standard) through to five star (gold medal standard) judged throughout the year by our varying independent panels of three judges. It should be noted that our three-star wines were not included (bronze medal standard) simply because of space considerations in this mega issue. (We would happily drink any of those over lunch or cafe-style dinner celebrations). We have also combined our previous Wine of the Year issue into our Annual to offer a comprehensive guide of the Best of the Year in one volume. For this we reevaluate the 4½ and five-star wines for what is effectively a Trophy Judging for each varietal category. Here our expert panel of Stephen John, (chair), Leigh Francis (chief scientist AWRI) and Natalie Cleghorn (senior winemaker, Yalumba) judged nearly 600 of our resubmitted best wines of the year. The end result was a Top Five listing across 16 categories with a champion in each category, followed by the Wine of the Year and the counterpart Australian Wine of the Year or New Zealand Wine of the Year depending on who comes first. To repeat, despite the tough times, consumers have never had it so good! Make the most of it, support the amazing growers and wine producers who make these wonderful wines and drink up! Cheers! Peter Simic Your wine, Editor/Publisher our ports. Major Sponsors and Supporters Australia Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com 9 Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E

briefs HISTORY-MAKING AWARDS MOVIE MAGIC THE 2019 Australian Women In ONE of McLaren Vale’s oldest wineries, Kay Wine Awards (AWIWA) has made Brothers, was so excited to celebrate the 125th history, kicking off the inaugural USA anniversary of its iconic Block 6 Shiraz, it made Aussie Wine Month in New York. a film about it. Now in its fifth year, the awards Kay Brothers commissioned local film maker were announced in New York and David Parkinson to capture One Year In The live streamed around the world with Life of Block 6 which covers the wine’s 2017 eight of the nine winners attending in vintage from vineyard to bottle. The film features person to receive their award. interviews with third-generation Kay family Wine Australia chose the awards to launch its Far From Ordinary month- member Colin Kay and chief winemaker Duncan long campaign, the largest Australian wine promotion ever held in the US. Kennedy. The significance of the AWIWA and its timing was not lost on Wine Australia CEO, Andreas Clark. “We believe that our diverse wine community is one of The film can be viewed by purchasing a bottle of 2017 Block 6 Shiraz. our greatest strengths that help make our wine Far From Ordinary, and we Download the app, scan the label and watch the wine’s full story come to life. are delighted to sponsor the Honorary Australian Woman In Wine USA and the Viticulturist of the Year Awards.” CRUSADERS FOR THE ENVIRONMENT The 2019 AWIWA winners: Winemaker of the Year - Vanya Cullen, Cullen Wines. Researcher/Innovator of the Year - Inca Lee, Vinehealth Australia. A South Australian wine company that achieved a 25 per cent reduction in Champion of Diversity and Equality - John Davis, Pepper Tree Wines. water use and another that is on track to achieve 100 per cent renewable Marketer of the Year: Imogen Hayes, Handpicked Wines. Cellar Door sources for electricity this year, are among the winners of the 2019 Person of the Year - Ulrika Larsson, Clairault Streicker. Viticulturist of the Year Environmental Excellence Awards. - Sheridan Alm, Starrs Reach Vineyard. Owner/Operator of the Year - Sarah McDougall, Lakes George Winery. Woman of Inspiration Awards - Angie Yalumba Family Winemakers was awarded for its viticultural advancements Bradbury, Dig & Fish & Wine Victoria CEO. Honorary Australian Women In which included the use of mid-row saltbush plantings to reduce water use. Wine Award USA - Christina Pickard. Deviation Road took out the small-medium winery category for its elimination SHAPING THE NEXT GENERATION of winery tank cleaning chemicals and sustainable building design. IN the first of what is planned to be an annual event, the inaugural Wine Pernod Ricard Winemakers was named a joint-winner in the large winery Industry Mentor Program has been launched. It matches experienced wine category. It is on track to achieve 100 per cent renewable sources for the communicators with a new generation of communicators hoping to make supply of its electricity. their mark in the Australian wine industry. AN OUTSTANDING INDUSTRY ADVOCATE The program is conducted by the Wine Communicators of Australia (WCA) and the Adelaide Business School of the University of Adelaide. ONE of Australia’s most influential wine industry leaders and thinkers, Dr Tony Over the next six months the 20 mentors and mentees will meet regularly Jordan, OAM, died on August 27, just with the aim of boosting both the mentees’ personal and professional months after being diagnosed with development and advise on their careers. mesothelioma. He was aged 75. “The calibre and number of applications received far surpassed our Dr Jordan lent his considerable expectations,” said Lynda Schenk, WCA executive officer. “There is clearly talents and intellectual ability to the a thirst to learn from the next generation of wine communicators.” establishment of many important industry programs, but will be remembered most MILAN GIVEN LEGEND STATUS for his work in establishing Domaine Chandon Australia in the Yarra Valley in the mid-1980s. ONE of Australia’s best-known food and wine writers, Lyndey Milan, has He chose the site, designed the winery along contemporary Australian lines been awarded the 2019 NSW Legend of the Vine. as well as the vineyards, and guided the style and quality of its sparkling wines. Through his work with the LVMH group he went on to help establish Outspoken and vivacious, Milan was recognised for her service to the Domaine Chandon operations in China and India. food and wine industries in her role as a multi- Dr Jordan first came to the attention of Australian winemakers early in award winning presenter, author, teacher and his career when he and Brian Croser formed Oenotec, a highly influential writer in a career spanning 30 years across consultancy business, and went on to create the wine science course at television, radio and print. She also publishes Charles Sturt University (formerly Riverina College). her own website - www.lyndeymilan.com. The He was highly influential in the Australian wine show system and was a Legend of the Vine Award adds to a list of regular international wine judge. Milan’s considerable achievements and awards, Known for his precise, technically-astute, no-nonsense approach, he was including an OAM in 2014. blessed with a great palate, a curious mind and an outstanding determination to succeed, which saw him improve the quality and reputation of Australian wine. 10 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

briefs CALLING CANBERRA HOME ELEGANCE AND LUXURY MOPPITY Vineyards will now VISITORS to Tasmania’s Coal River Valley wine region - just outside Hobart - call Canberra home, with the have a new luxury accommodation option that’s owned by one of the island recent decision to purchase the state’s most famous winemaking families. region’s Kerralee Vineyard. Prospect House Private Hotel, one of Tasmania’s oldest and most elegant Moppity owners, Jason country house hotels, is open for business after new owners John and Libby and Alecia Brown, intend to Pooley invested more than $5m in refurbishing and upgrading the historic extend the vineyard and build property they bought in 2017. Built with convict labour in 1830, Prospect a winery and cellar door on site House is a fine example of a Georgian-style country house. to showcase the company’s wines which hail from three NSW When the Pooleys bought Prospect House it had been used as a private regions - Hilltops, Tumbarumba and Canberra. home for more than five years and hadn’t undergone a significant renovation The new Moppity Vineyards headquarters is located on the Barton Highway, since the 1970s. It needed major remodelling and refurbishment to meet between Canberra and Murrumbateman, and its creation is expected to have their vision for the property. The Pooleys then incorporated an eclectic mix environmental as well as significant winery tourism benefits with a reduction of furnishings and antiques from their private collection to give every space in grape transport and an overall smaller environmental footprint. its own character. “We’re constantly looking for ways to improve and evolve,” said Jason Brown, “and I believe we’re at the top of our game today.” “We’ve always loved restoring and renovating period properties,” says John Pooley. “Prospect House was an ambitious project, but we’re delighted OWN YOUR OWN with what we’ve been able to achieve and are looking forward to sharing it with guests.” Prospect House now has 12 guest suites, will accommodate TEMPTED by the idea of owning a cool-climate vineyard on the East up to 24 guests and, with a minimum staff to guest ratio of around 1:2, Coast of Tasmania? You might have to move smartly to snap up Darlington aims to attract guests looking for a luxurious experience with exceptional Vineyard, situated on a 2ha site a kilometre from the waters of Prosser hospitality and service in a unique heritage location. Bay at Orford on the Freycinet Coast. The restaurant at Prospect House celebrates the farmers and producers The seaside town of Orford of Tasmania’s south east. Head chef Kurstin Berriman’s menu focuses on is north-east of Hobart along seasonal and sustainable local produce, much of it sourced from nearby the Tasman Highway. Orford Coal River Valley. The three-course dinner menu ($85) includes entrees such was first settled in 1825 as a as eel escabeche or Westhaven goat cheese pannacotta, main courses way station for convicts. The such as rare seared wallaby fillet or crispy skinned line-caught salmon. convicts were marched to the township before being sent to Guests can enjoy fine Tasmanian wines, including a selection of cool- Darlington on Maria Island. climate Coal River Valley wines, and dine in the restaurant or under the stars. Visitors come to the Orford Situated within an easy stroll, bike ride or short drive from the historic village region for access to Maria of Richmond, Prospect House guests have plenty to occupy and entertain Island, as well as great them. Signature activities include cycling, tennis, golf and bird watching. sheltered beaches, Wielangta Prospect House also has its own apiary, where a thriving bee community state forest and good fishing. produces honey for the restaurant kitchen. Tourists and visitors pass through Orford on the their way to Swansea and to Freycinet and Douglas Apsley National Parks. Prospect House is an ideal base for visitors wanting to explore the Coal Orford has a population of 500 permanent residents but during the River Valley wine region, the World Heritage-listed Port Arthur historic site Tasmanian summer holidays - mid-December to mid-February - the or greater Hobart. Accommodation at Prospect House starts from $350 per population increases three-fold. The majority of people are from Hobart night, including breakfast. Visit prospecthouseprivatehotel.com.au. and stay in shacks in the area. Darlington Vineyard has 5000 vines of four grape varieties - pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling and sauvignon blanc. The annual yield is between seven and 10 tonnes. The vines were planted in 1993 and the property has been owned by the Stranan family since 2004. The property comprises a modern three-bedroom, two-bathroom home and outbuildings, including a workshop, warehouse and cellar door. There is all the equipment needed to run the vineyard. The wines are made at Frogmore Creek. The price: $1.2 million, less than a suburban home in Sydney. Knight Frank is the agent. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs LONDON CALLING FREE TRADE PAYS OFF THE Mama Shelter hotel brand started in Paris a decade ago and has now NEW free trade agreements with spread across the globe. The latest in the hip group has just opened in Indonesia and Hong Kong have been the rapidly gentrified East End of London. welcomed as a boost for the Australian wine industry, says Australian Grape and In a city that is among the most expensive for accommodation, Mama Wine Incorporated. Shelter London offers great deals for advance purchases and has a party central ground level with bars and an eatery. Australian Grape and Wine chief executive Tony Battaglene said: “The The completely revamped former RE Hotel London has 195 rooms starting Australian wine sector is extremely from about $185 a night. There are free in-room movies, fast and free wifi, supportive of the benefits of free trade and and quality toiletries in the ensuites. progressing these two FTAs presents a range of direct and indirect opportunities The restaurant has an outside courtyard with a retractable roof. Inside, for the sector. The IA-CEPA is an important the vibe is vintage lamps and a chalkboard ceiling that’s covered with step in strengthening the Australia- graffiti by graphic designer and artist Beniloys. There’s also a giant table Indonesia relationship and may provide future benefits to Australian football game. There are private karaoke rooms downstairs, with pinball winemakers and grape growers over time. The A-HKFTA presents a range of tables and retro video games. opportunities for Australian food and wine exporters.” The food offerings include pork belly baos with char sui sauce, pak choi Australian wine businesses exported more than $100 million worth of wine and hajikami ginger; crab doughnuts with pickled cucumber, share plates to Hong Kong in 2018 and maintained a strong market share at high price- of cumin-roasted cauliflower and Asian rice paper wraps, and croque points, particularly for red wines. monsieur. And you don’t need to be staying the night to visit Mama as there’s an in-house restaurant and terrace. Local classics include pie CELEBRATING A DECADE and mash. LAST October, Subiaco Farmers’ Market - a huge favourite with West Australian Mama Shelter London is within a 10-15 minute walk of Bethnal Green foodies - celebrated its 10th birthday. Underground Station. There is a bus stop outside hotel, with buses going to Liverpool St, London Bridge, Waterloo and Oxford Circus. The market is held come rain, hail or shine and supported by hundreds of farmers, growers and producers. Contributor Winsor Dobbin describes it as “fun, affordable and in a great location”. Mama Shelter London, 437 Hackney Rd, London. Visit It is held at Subiaco Primary School, 271 Bagot Rd, Subiaco, from 8am-noon mamashelter.com. every Saturday and is one of the oldest and original farmers market in the state. Visit subifarmersmarket.com.au. 25 YEARS OF BOND AND BOLLINGER CHAMPAGNE Bollinger has been the official champagne for British secret agent James Bond for 40 years - since the release of Moonraker in 1979. “It brings me an immense amount of pride to be celebrating 40 years of partnership between Bollinger and James Bond, it is a testament to the friendship started in 1979 between my father Christian Bizot and James Bond producer Cubby Broccoli. A friendship based on our shared values such as excellence and elegance,” said Societe Jacques Bollinger CEO Etienne Bizot. To celebrate the partnership, Champagne Bollinger and 007 have paid Etienne Bizot tribute to their shared heritage and revisited the space shuttle created by legendary production designer Ken Adam. Champagne Bollinger enlisted designer Eric Berthes to re-imagine the Moonraker space shuttle. Crafted from pewter and wood veneer, encasing a Saint Louis crystal ice bucket and a magnum of Bollinger 2007, a Bond vintage par excellence. Each numbered piece has been crafted and finished by hand, making it unique. There will be a limited edition of 407 copies. RRP $8500. To mark the release of the upcoming movie No Time To Die, the 25th instalment of the James Bond film series, the House has also created a limited edition wine dedicated to 007, with a 2011 vintage inspired by the world of Bond. The jet-black 75 centilitre bottle is adorned with the number “25” , formed from the titles of the previous films, which are similarly etched on the glass of the wooden box. 12 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

briefs COOKING UP A CELEBRATION Lucio’s in Paddington has invited his friend and Italian wine importer Piero Tantin, of Godot Wines, to present a range of boutique Italian wines SYDNEY Seafood School, one of Australia’s leading providers of hands-on alongside his dishes. cooking experiences, is celebrating its 30th anniversary with a program of new events and guest chefs. Whereas elegant dinner party entertaining was the ideal in the late ’80s, today it’s all about keeping it quick and easy. “Everyone’s time The school opened in 1989, with cooking classes hosted by Serge poor,” says Muir. “Our mission is to inspire everyone to eat well together Dansereau (The Bathers’ Pavilion, then head chef of Kables at the Regent and we’ve realised that if we can help people get a meal on the table in Hotel), Charmaine Solomon (cookery writer and television presenter), Peter around 30 minutes, using ingredients they have on hand, then they will Doyle (ex est. and then at Le Trianon) and master sushi chef Hideo Dekura. cook more often, so many of our events have that sort of theme.” Visit sydneyfishmarket.com.au. Seafood School manager Roberta Muir, in charge for the last 22 years, says: “The school’s first program is like an archaeological find. What’s really HUME ASSUMES CONTROL interesting is that many of the themes are still among our most popular today, including barbecuing seafood.” RISING star Corey Hume is the new executive chef at True South Dining Room, the award-winning eatery at the Rees Hotel in Queenstown, New The school, which sits above the Sydney Fish Market, features a custom- Zealand. made kitchen, dining room and a tiered theatre. All classes showcase a three-in-one experience, including a live demonstration, hands-on cooking Hume is a former member of the New Zealand National Culinary Olympic and dining with a glass of wine. team and spent eight years at Blanket Bay luxury lodge. The line-up of chef talent appearing across the 30th-anniversary program Mark Rose, chief executive of the Rees believes it’s a real coup to have features Mike McEnearney (Kitchen by Mike), Mike Eggert (Totti’s), Mark attracted Hume. LaBrooy (Three Blue Ducks), Morgan McGlone (Belles Hot Chicken), Palisa Anderson (Chat Thai), Paul Carmichael (Momofuku Seiobo), “Corey is world-class - both in this creative calibre and kind-heartedness Giovanni Pilu (Pilu at Freshwater) and Alessandro Pavoni (Ormeggio at given his service record mentoring chefs and raising funds for important The Spit). community causes. We’re all hugely excited to welcome him Although housed in the Fish Market, the program is about much more aboard to our team,” Rose says. than seafood. McEnearney will host a sourdough bread making class; Hume’s CV shows residencies Eggert will showcase working in Japan, Oman and the best of seasonal exposure in the US. “I believe in vegetables; McGlone honesty and authenticity - with will share the secrets a twist,” he says. Chef Hume of his famous southern- believes Queenstown is an style chicken. inspiring place to live. “There are few places where the view The school is also is as magnificent,” he says. known for its focus on wine and food matching. He replaces Ben Batterbury, McGlone will host with who spent a decade as Mike Bennie of P&V Wine executive chef at the Rees. and Liquor Merchants, while Lucio Galletto of Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs TYRRELL’S JOINS THE CLUB College to study Oenology and went on to have a 40-year winemaking career. She was the first woman to occupy an important winemaking position in a HISTORIC family-owned Hunter Valley wine producer Tyrrell’s is the latest member of Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia. large company, the first female winemaker to become a wine show judge, the first woman to be employed by Krug and among the first women wine The Tyrrell family has been producing wines in the Hunter since 1858, educators and winemaking consultants in Australia. and the winery is one of the oldest and most successful in the region. The historic cellar door has become a “must do” for both domestic and overseas Dunsford received her award in recognition of her outstanding contribution visitors to the region. and service to the Australian and South Australian wine industry. She is well known for paving the way for many women winemakers in Australia and for “We’re thrilled to continue the expansion of the UWEA collection in the her guts and determination. Hunter Valley,” said Kate Shilling, UWEA executive officer. Her first role in the wine industry was with Wynns Winery between 1974 to “As such a tourism hotspot, and so close to Sydney, the Hunter Valley 1986. After leaving Wynns, Dunsford was awarded a Churchill Scholarship, offers international and domestic visitors the ideal introduction to Australian during which she spent her time in Champagne. Upon returning to Australia, wine and, for us, provides an opportunity to fly the flag for Australia’s wine she became a consultant and lectured at Roseworthy and the Hotel School regions further afield.” at Regency Park. In 1981, Dunsford started working for Chapel Hill, a stint that lasted 19 years. Headed by fourth-generation family member Bruce Tyrrell, Tyrrell’s is home to some of Australia’s most awarded wines, including the iconic Vat Toni Carlino, WCA Chair, said: “Pam Dunsford has shown great determination 1 Semillon. and resilience throughout her career. Her impact on the Australian wine industry is paramount and has paved the way for many within it today. We are honoured Visitors to the Tyrrell’s cellar door can enjoy award-winning wines as well to award Pam our 2019 South Australia Legend of the Vine.” as tours to experience first-hand the old oak vats and historic red cellar still in full operation, the original iron bark hut where Edward Tyrrell lived. Dunsford is the sixth person to achieve legend status in South Australia and she joins fellow wine colleagues and professionals Tony Love (2018), Brian Chief operating officer and fifth-generation family member Chris Tyrrell Walsh (2017), d’Arry Osborn (2016), Bill Hardy (2015) and Patrick Iland (2014). says of joining UWEA: “This represents a fantastic opportunity for Tyrrell’s to align with, and learn from like-minded brands, all focused on wine tourism DIRECT FLIGHTS TO OPEN UP THE WEST and visitor experience. We look forward to continuing to build on our current offering with exciting new experiences in the future.” MARGARET River has always been one of Australia’s most rewarding wine regions to visit - but also one of the most difficult to get to. Ultimate Winery Experiences now available at Tyrrell’s include: a VIP Premium Tour and Tasting Experience; the Exclusive Sacred Sites Experience From Sydney and Melbourne, it has always meant a three-four-hour flight of ungrafted dry-grown vineyards which are over 100 years old. plus a long drive. Until now. The UWEA group now comprises 23 member wineries. Visit The Margaret River ultimatewineryexperiences.com.au/experiences. B u s s e l t o n To u r i s m Association (MRBTA) has DUNSFORD AWARDED ‘LEGEND’ STATUS welcomed the news that Melbourne and Busselton THERE is nothing unusual about women winemakers, even in the blokey will be connected via Australian world of wine. a direct flight route, with Jetstar announcing that it Sue Hodder, Vanya Cullen and Louisa Rose are among those at the peak will commence a Melbourne- of their profession - and there are dozens more following in their footsteps, Busselton service from many at the helm of their own businesses. March 25. Back in the 1980s there were only two women winemakers of repute - Ursula Pridham at Marienberg and Pam Dunsford. Dunsford has been recognised by being named the South Australia Wine Communicators of Australia Legend of the Vine 2019. She grew up in an era when it was unthinkable that young women should hold winemaking roles. Having studied for a degree in biochemistry and horticulture from the University of Adelaide, it was during this time she became interested in wine. In 1972, Dunsford became the first female to be accepted to Roseworthy 14 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

briefs Jetstar will operate the service three times per week on Mondays, & Soda combines the bittersweet and zesty taste of seville oranges, orange Wednesdays and Saturdays, landing at Busselton Margaret River Airport at blossom, along with other botanicals found in Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla, and 9.05am and departing at 9.40am. a touch of soda to add lightness to the palate. The new service will certainly offer easier access to the Margaret River region Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla Gin & Soda does not need any additional for interstate travellers. ingredients (except, perhaps, a cube or two of ice). The service will be supported by MRBTA and Australia’s South West The petite glass bottle serve arrives following the successful launches of (ASW), with the two tourism bodies working together to deliver a training both Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla and ready-to-drink Tanqueray Gin & Tonic. and capacity building program for regional businesses wishing to welcome airline passengers. With a recipe unchanged since its introduction in 1830, Tanqueray London Gin is the world’s most-awarded gin, the advertising blurb says. Available from Alongside its industry development program, MRBTA has committed good bottle shops, 275ml glass bottle four-packs cost $25.99. $100,000 to market the new route. CHANGE OF OWNERS Tailored editorial, itineraries, inspirational imagery, video and travel advice will be shared via the MBRTA marketing and visitor servicing channels. IN what was one of the worst-kept secrets in the wine industry, Woolworths- Former MRBTA CEO Pip Close, who is returning to the organisation to assist owned Endeavour Drinks has bought with major strategic projects, said securing the new route was an important award-winning McLaren Vale winery milestone for tourism in the Margaret River region. Chapel Hill for an undisclosed sum. “The new air service coming to fruition is a landmark achievement for the Chapel Hill joins Krondorf (Barossa region and we congratulate the teams at the City of Busselton and Tourism Valley), Isabel Estate (Marlborough) WA, who have led the way in attracting the airline,” she said. and Riddoch (Coonawarra) under the Paragon Wine Brands umbrella. “Closer interstate links will help to diversify the region’s visitor profile and Chapel Hill was acquired from Swiss investors and is best known for mitigate its heavy reliance on the intrastate market. We look forward to producing The Vicar and The Parson shirazes among a fine range, had been welcoming these visitors, who we know are highly attracted by the diversity sold through Endeavour Drinks as well as through cellar door sales and of experiences on offer within the compact area of the region, as well as the exports for several years. combination of premium wine and beautiful coastline.” “We have been selling a lot of Chapel Hill wine over the last five years - our customers love it - and it’s a lovely complement to a portfolio of really important GIVE IT A GO brands that we’re privileged to have in our suite of brands,” Endeavour Drinks managing director Steve Donohue said. WHEN did you last enjoy a chilled glass of Chapel Hill’s chief winemaker and chief executive Michael Fragos said refreshing aranel? the existing team would stay with the company and relationships with grape growers would not change. Ara what, you may well ask. Aranel is an extremely rare grape variety - so rare there SEBEL BACK IN SYDNEY have only been two versions produced in Australia - one by Tempus Two and a rather THE legendary hotel brand Sebel is back in the Sydney market. delicious version now available from Berton Australia's largest hotel operator, Accor, has announced that Quay West Vineyards in the Riverina. Suites Sydney has been re-branded to the Sebel Quay West Suites Sydney. The 2019 Winemakers’ Reserve Aranel Situated in Sydney’s historic Rocks precinct, the Sebel Quay West Suites costs just $14 a bottle, which puts it in the bargain basement bracket for fresh, crisp and light summer whites. Aromatic offers apartment-style suites with views over the Sydney Harbour Bridge, and quite delicate, this is a wine for enjoying chilled, best to sample its Sydney Opera House and Circular Quay. stone-fruit and lightish citrus notes. Minutes from the ferry terminal and Overseas Passenger Terminal, the So, what is aranel? It is a rare hybrid variety that originated in southern property brings back a brand that was an icon in the 1980s and 1990s France and is grown in just one vineyard in the Riverina. with the Sebel Town House. Aranel is obscure even in the Languedoc and Provence and, is derived Accor Pacific chief operating officer, Simon McGrath, said: “It's a from grenache gris and saint-pierre dore (an almost-extinct white grape delight to welcome the Sebel brand back to Sydney’s CBD. Many would from the Auvergne region). remember the Sebel Town House, which opened its doors in Sydney over 50 years ago, and since then has become a well-established premium The crossing was made in 1961 by ampelographer Paul Truel - but it is apartment offering, renowned for its stylish and spacious surrounds grown today only in tiny parcels. The variety is directly related to the ancient supported by exemplary, personable service that is both welcoming and goais blanc (from which chardonnay was derived). knowledgeable. JUST ADD ICE “This is a strategic move for this well-known property in The Rocks, which will only be enhanced by its new brand positioning. The Sebel Quay West IN time for the warmer months comes a stylish new ready-to-drink gin cocktail Suites Sydney offers both the sophistication and independent flexibility from the Tanqueray team. that our guests expect from The Sebel brand.” Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla Gin & Soda is now available in four packs of individual-sized serves that should appeal to the negroni crowd. Inspired by one of Charles Tanqueray’s original recipes, the Tanqueray Gin Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs The Sebel Quay West Suites Sydney joins a network of 29 internationally The Fullerton Hotel Sydney will share more than its history as a former GPO branded the Sebel apartment products across Australia and New Zealand. building with its sister property the Fullerton Hotel Singapore; it will also feature authentic south-east Asian cuisines alongside modern Australian Sebel Quay West Suites Sydney guests will be able to earn points and dishes in the new restaurant - the Places. privileges via AccorHotels’ loyalty program - Le Club AccorHotels. Sebel Quay West Suites Sydney, 98 Gloucester St, the Rocks. Think dishes like pan-fried red emperor and braised wagyu short rib, or Singaporean chicken rice and maybe seafood laksa. Another Fullerton POSTIE DELIVERS tradition is the Signature Afternoon Tea. SYDNEY has a new luxury hotel brand with the opening of the Fullerton Hotel Guest rooms feature signature Harman Kardon bluetooth speakers, Nespresso Sydney in the iconic former General Post Office building at Martin Place. machines with pods, Singaporean TWG teas and an extensive pillow menu. Visit fullertonhotels.com. Rooms are available from $380 a night. The opening marks the first international expansion of the Fullerton Hotels and Resorts, the brand central to the waterfront precinct of the Fullerton Heritage by Marina Bay in Singapore, which includes two award-winning hotels - the Fullerton Hotel Singapore and the Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore. The brand’s vision for the 416-room Fullerton Hotel Sydney is to deliver a luxury hotel that is synonymous with warm hospitality and flair. “We encourage our guests to embark on memorable journeys that are deeper, more colourful and more rewarding when they stay in our one-of- a-kind, landmark luxury hotels with prime addresses that are destinations unto themselves,” said Cavaliere Giovanni Viterale, Fullerton Hotels and Resorts GM. “We are excited to open the Fullerton Hotel Sydney in a landmark building that is steeped in character and history. It is our aim to provide hotel guests and visitors with heartfelt hospitality and memorable experiences, all while showcasing the beauty and heritage of the former Sydney GPO building to a wider audience both nationally and globally.” In addition to its extensive revitalisation program, the Fullerton Hotel Sydney plans to shine a spotlight on the GPO building’s unique stories through Fullerton Experiences, a bespoke program featuring complimentary heritage tours and events for both hotel guests and members of the public. The 90-minute heritage tours will also showcase the intricate stonework and reveal little-known facts of bygone years. 16 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW SETTING THE HEMP AMONG THE VINES FAMILY ON HAND TO CELEBRATE THE impact of legal recreational marijuana as a potential disruptor for wine ALPHA Domus, the oldest family-vineyard in Hawke’s Bay’s Bridge Pa is being closely watched by the global wine industry, but in New Zealand, Triangle is celebrating 30 years of production, with three generations of it’s the drug’s fast-growing cousin hemp that’s attracting attention. In late the Ham family on hand to mark the milestone. Founder Anthonius (Ton) 2018, Marlborough grapegrower Kirsty Harkness obtained a licence to Ham and his late wife Leonarda established the 20ha vineyard in 1989; grow hemp among vines, trialling its potential benefits for the vineyard Alpha represents the initials of Ton, Leonarda and their three children, and and wider environment. A strain of the cannabis sativa family, hemp has Domus is Latin for “home”. Son Paul, his wife Kathryn and their daughter none of marijuana’s psychoactive compounds, instead being valued for Beatrix are now driving the next phase of Alpha Domus’s evolution, its versatile fibre which can be used for clothing/textiles, rope, insulation, overseeing a sleek rebranding of the label’s three tiers, and aptly for a paper, bio-plastics, biofuel, animal feed and more. A hectare of hemp will time of celebration, have added two sparkling styles - the Beatrix Sparkling also yield around one tonne of seeds, which are rich sources of protein, Rosé and a reissuing of Cumulus methode sparkling - to the label’s well- omegas 3, 6 and 9, fibre and minerals. Harkness, the MD and co-owner of regarded portfolio of syrah, bordeaux blends, white varieties and sweet Mount Base Vineyards, notes hemp attracts myriad beneficial insects and wines. Paul Ham comments: “The Bridge Pa Triangle is not only special to brings water to leaf surfaces and potassium to the soil surface. Hemp is us, it is increasingly gaining recognition as the home of some of the most also showing great promise as a mulch, holding four times its body weight delicious, vibrant and inspired wines in the country. We are proud to be in water, and is very effective in weed suppression. The dry 2019 season part of the pioneering winegrowing history of Hawke’s Bay.” proved a baptism by heat for Harkness, with drought and water restrictions demonstrating the hardiness of hemp - despite just 10mm of rain in 70 SUNNY TIMES AHEAD days over January and February, the plants grew 2m. New cultivar and planting month trials are planned across Marlborough, examining hemp’s NELSON may vie with Marlborough for the title of sunniest region in New impact on nutrient and water uptake, vine health, mulch trials and potential Zealand but the latter has always dwarfed the former in terms of size. impact on wine aromas and flavours. Naturally, local interest has been Of course, at 76.6 per cent of production, Marlborough dwarfs all other piqued with Harkness fielding calls from curious producers. To this end winegrowing regions, however Nelson has recently edged out Central she has established a Facebook page, VinHemp, to provide information Otago to become the country’s fourth largest wine production region, and updates. clocking in at 3.1 per cent to Central’s 3 per cent of production (Hawke’s Bay is second at 9.3 per cent and Gisborne third with 4.1 per cent). Nelson YORKE MOVES ON has around 30 boutique-scaled producers growing a diverse range of varieties, with increases in sauvignon blanc, gewurztraminer, sauvignon CHRIS Yorke has departed his 15-year position of New Zealand gris, syrah, viognier and albarino hectarage. A verdant and sheltered Winegrower’s Global Marketing Director to take up a new role as the coastal city, Nelson has long been known as a vibrant scene for not only managing director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, replacing Willi wine but also food, art and crafts, with Neudorf’s Judy Finn commenting: Klinger. Yorke came to New Zealand from the UK in 2004 via marketing “This is the Provence of New Zealand”. positions in the UK and Germany, and has overseen a key period in New Zealand wine growth during which exports climbed from $300 million in CASHING IN 2004 to $1.7 billion. He leaves the country feeling confident about its future, commenting that: “The greatest strength of NZ winemakers is their ability to BOOSTER Financial Services, the recent purchaser of Hawke’s Bay’s work so well together - it really is the envy of other local industries.” Yorke Sileni Estate and Nelson’s Mahana Estate has listed the Private Land and sees parallels between the New Zealand and Austrian industries, noting: Property Fund on the NZ Sharemarket, providing the opportunity to invest in “Austria has a similar volume wine production to New Zealand but four or a Portfolio Investment Entity (PIE) with $50 million in assets spread across five times as many wineries, all within a two-hour drive of Vienna, which North and South Island vineyards. The fund does not invest directly in the offers a massive wine tourism opportunity. Like New Zealand winemakers wineries (Booster offers this via its Tahi fund), rather it invests in vineyard they are very strong on sustainability. Austrian producers have a strong land generating rental and lease income from the growing and supply of focus on quality - New Zealand and France command the highest bottle grapes. Further horticulture investments into other crops are planned. The prices in Europe but Austria is fourth.” fund has so far retuned 11.1 per cent before tax over the past two years, and the minimum investment is $1000. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW RESTORING A REPUTATION FEBRUARY 2020 marks a significant moment badly affected by heavy spring (April) frost, We’re used to ranks in bordeaux classifications in the evolution of Bordeaux’s Crus Bourgeois which significantly reduced volumes, though, such as the first to fifth growths of the 1855 classification. After five years of work and legal generally, quality was good to very good. In all, classification. Indeed, the Crus Bourgeois preparation, Crus Bourgeois is moving to a five- the 2017 Crus Bourgeois classification accounts classification sits below the 1855 one. Splitting up, year classification. for some 23 per cent of Medoc production from typically, around 250 classified properties into a not quite a quarter of its vineyard area - some few ranks makes logical sense. Crus Bourgeois is For the decade of vintages from 2008 to 19 million bottles from just over 3800ha - a a big group (1855 classification is 61 chateaux). 2017, Crus Bourgeois has steered a steady, vineyard acreage some 10 per cent smaller than And it covers a wide price bracket: in the UK, fairly unobtrusive ship, working solidly on the Clare Valley. Averaged over the decade, very roughly from around $18 to around $75, so rebuilding reputation and consequence, around 250 properties have been classified each the top end definitely butts heads with the lower after a damaging and turbulent period at the year. Production averaged 28 million bottles end of the 1855 Crus Classes. beginning of the millennium. As part of reputation (21 million litres), which has roughly comprised recovery, the organisation outsourced, to an around 30 per cent of total Medoc (left bank, Having rebuilt Crus Bourgeois’ reputation into independent third-party body, responsibility north of Bordeaux city) production. a reliable and consistent group brand, some for ensuring impartiality and minimum wine internal segmentation may well help consumers quality standards. This body conducted the Crus Bourgeois has steered find their way more easily among the plethora of blind tasting assessments on which entry to labels. And encourage group members to climb Crus Bourgeois is granted. For traditional a steady, fairly unobtrusive their own internal ladder. We see something bordeaux, outsourcing this critical step was similar to this in the St. Emilion classification, fairly revolutionary. It is worth noting that when ship, after a damaging which is redone roughly every decade, with the St Emilion classification became mired in promotions and demotions. controversy a few years after Crus Bourgeois, and turbulent period at the one of their outcomes was to adopt this idea The rankings are decided on more than solely a of an independent third party organisation beginning of the millennium. blind tasting, though this remains integral. Olivier accrediting the tasting process element of the Cuvelier, president of the Alliance des Crus classification (bias in the tasting component had But after 10 years of annual classification, Crus Bourgeois de Medoc, explained: “Properties been a major criticism in both controversies). Bourgeois is moving to a five-year classification. with a minimum of five years (classified Crus And with three tiers, or ranks - Cru Bourgeois, Bourgeois) in the last 10 years go directly For each of those 10 vintages, in order to be Cru Bourgeois Superieur and Cru Bourgeois to Crus Bourgeois basic level. This is a one- classified as Cru Bourgeois, any property in any Exceptionnel. This is something of a reversion off transition” to the new five-year system. of the eight appellations on the left bank, north to a three-tier ranking of the mid-1800s, which Producers with fewer than five years of Crus of Bordeaux (St. Estephe, Pauillac, St. Julien, occurred long after the concept of the “Crus des Bourgeois status under their belts may, in this Margaux, Listrac-Medoc, Moulis-en-Medoc, Bourgeois” (merchants) emerged from the 15th transition classification, choose five vintages Medoc and Haut-Medoc) can apply. Finished century onwards. The heritage of Crus Bourgeois from 2008 to 2016 to submit to blind tasting. wine (not cask samples) of the Chateau label runs deep; this has been an important asset to For 2025-2030 everyone wanting to apply must (second labels are not allowed to apply) is tasted preserve, protect and promote. submit vintages 2017 to 2021. by an independent panel. The final vintage of the annual award is 2017, announced in the Cuvelier went on: “To apply for the upper levels, latter part of 2019. Some 226 properties were there is the blind tasting, plus other assessment classified as Crus Bourgeois for 2017, a vintage criteria - environmental criteria, technical criteria, and commercial and marketing criteria.” 18 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

TRADE PHOTOGRAPHY $50 per bottle photographed (Minimum 2 bottle fee) Studio, Vineyard, Cellar Door and profile shots based on application. Contact: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8357 9277 He was keen to emphasise that the marketing for 2020-2025, but failed the inspection in, say, criteria are not necessarily about tasting rooms 2021, it would lose its classification for 2021. and tourism, though these aspects may well be The following vintages of the classification part of the mix. He said: “there is no obligation would also be controlled. Plus, the producer to work in a particular way. Marketing criteria may not, depending on the decision of the could be tourism aspects or business-to- verification body, be able to apply for Crus business trading aspects.” It includes aspects Bourgeois classification until the 2030-2035 of distribution channels as well as domestic and edition. This seems quite a strong incentive, if international sales and marketing. properly policed and, indeed, communicated to consumers. The agricultural and environmental criteria are especially important. The wider Bordeaux A multi-year classification brings Crus region is one of the biggest pesticide users Bourgeois more closely back in line with the in the country. Bordeaux has a cool, maritime more familiar regularly updated classification of climate, with an annual rainfall pattern - fungal Bordeaux - St. Emilion. Judging various elements disease pressure is a near-constant concern. of production and commerce, in addition to blind Producers will be required to have a minimum tasting, is also consistent. It should certainly environmental certification, that deals with simplify strategic communications to know the biodiversity, plant protection, fertiliser use and situation for five, rather than one, year. water management. Ph: 08 8357 9277 The technical criteria are to do with vineyard www.winestate.com.au and winery management, and include such things as vineyard plot traceability through the production process, batch traceability through vinification, maturation and bottling, quality assurance and quality control protocols. Many of these are things that ought to be pretty standard for a half-decent producer. Cuvelier also announced a bit of a sting in the tail - an imperative for producers not to consider resting on laurels of achieving a five-year classification. He said: “there will be a minimum of two inspections per classification period. The property can be declassified for a vintage” in the middle of the classification period where a property fails the verification organisation’s inspection. Additionally, he said, “the property cannot take part in the next classification.” This means, if a producer achieved classification Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY MORE CHOICE AS SPARKLERS LIGHT UP THE MARKET THERE has been an explosion in types of sparkling by a panel of experts. The strict rules include that the Prosecco is the leading tank wine (in Italy the wine. The choice of wines in the marketplace wine must be dry and made by a producer who owns process is called the martinotti method), and while makes it a very exciting category. No longer are the vineyard, and they are not allowed to add acid. But Australia continues to produce and label wines as we restricted to choosing champagne and perhaps there is unrest in the Cava DO, with a splinter group prosecco, its home is in the Italian towns of Conegliano you should consider fizz as an everyday wine, or of smaller producers being formed called Corpinnat. and Valdobbiadene in north-western Italy. The wine maybe you already do. Nine Penedes producers have gone it alone, having has light amylic aromas of pear and apple. Drunk as been forced to drop the name cava from their labels. a fresh, light aperitif style, it is a wine that has grown The choices start in the vineyard. Grapes for The group is open to only Penedes producers with in popularity across the globe which has helped Italy sparkling wine are generally selected from cool an organic focus and longer aged wines, as well as overtake France as the largest exporter of sparkling climates and can be slightly under ripe if they a focus on local varieties which must make up 90 wines by volume. are going to be made into wine by the traditional per cent of the blend. Cava can be produced in a method. But if the secondary fermentation is going large area of north-western Spain but Penedes is Again, we have some alternatives. Prosecco Col to be carried out in tank, or if it is being made by regarded as the centre of production. Obviously, the Fondo is a traditional and slightly cloudy wine that the ancestral method, then the grapes will need group wants to promote the region more and push is normally a frizzante style. This is refermented to provide all the flavours so they can be grown the quality of their wines. in the bottle and is left undisgorged, and can age in warmer climates. Whatever style of sparkling for a short period on its lees. Label terms such wine you need to have grapes with high acidity. While champagne remains as “rive” (grown on a hilly site) and “superiore di Fermentation and the types of yeast vary with each cartizze” (small sub region) indicate more quality- process and more flavour can come from using the classic choice, there is driven wines. Local grower and former resident aromatic yeast when the tank method is used. of Sydney, Martina Dal Grande, comments on the competition coming from latest developments, “The biggest trend at the While champagne remains the classic choice, there moment is the new Conegliano Valdobbiadene is competition coming from other parts of France. other parts of France. prosecco superiore style - brut nature/zero dosage Outside of Champagne there are eight cremant as well as a prosecco rosé which will be introduced regions to choose from. In 1985 the EU outlawed any Tasmania is now constantly delivering great in 2020 - using pinot noir for the rose colour.” region from using the term methode champenoise, sparkling wines. Ed Carr and the House of Arras so France adopted the term cremant to signify a have ensured that the Apple Isle stays on top as the Pet nat (petillant nature) wines are now extremely bottle-fermented sparkling wine made outside of preferred site for bottle fermented wines. But just like popular, but I wasn’t expecting to start with one the champagne region. The most popular cremants Europe, other areas shouldn’t be overlooked. Ashton at a recent Vanya Cullen masterclass. Her 2018 are found in Alsace, Burgundy and Loire. These can Hills, in the Adelaide Hills, makes a lovely vintage rosé Cullen Rosé Moon Pet Nat is a blend of malbec, represent excellent value for money and a number that has red fruits and autolytic characters together merlot, petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon. of regions are producing higher quality wines. Take with texture and length. What impressed me more The wine is bottled while it still has 20g or so Alsace, for example, with its Cremant d’Alsace recently is Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot. It is one of of residual sugar and yeast present, so it is still Emotion that requires a minimum of 24 months on lees. its biggest sellers and it is easy to see why. The wine going through its fermentation. A normal sparkling A similar venture was launched in 2018 in the Loire delivers bags of red fruits with an elegant fresh palate. wine has around 24g of sugar added to start the with the Prestige de Loire category. Here cremant This is a tank fermented wine that keeps up with secondary fermentation. It is a lovely textured is big business with around 400 producers and an demand by having six batch ferments a year, ensuring wine, but traditional drinkers will need an open annual production of over 17 million bottles. it is always fresh. When you look at price-v-quality this mind to appreciate these unusual wines. “It’s our wine has hit a sweet spot in the market. super natural style,” says Cullen. According to Spanish cava might be regarded as a poor imitation her, the longer the wine spends on lees the better of champagne, but it has now followed the French in Tank or charmat method sparkling wines involve a it gets. Incidentally, lees ageing is the enzymatic establishing a higher category. The single vineyard cheaper method of production, but it should not be breakdown of dead yeast cells and can continue classification of Cava del Paraje Calificado (CPC), regarded as inferior wine. Charmat method wines for four or five years. It is an interesting fact that established in 2017, has become only the third can still involve time on lees, for instance, that is if the keeping a wine on its lees stops the oxidation Spanish Calificado DO (Rioja and Priorat are the winemaker desires autolytic characters. process, but once it is removed it ages quicker. other two). The wine must be aged for a minimum of 36 months and be from a single vineyard, and tasted 20 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

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winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING GRAND TORINO DRIVES THE TOURISM EXPERIENCE FURTHER THE first thing that gobsmacks newbie visitors High Dam. They also donated the Ellesiya rock of historic Baroque buildings and Roman ruins, to Turin is its architectural grandeur. Italy’s temple to the Egyptian Museum in Turin for Italian and you can sit outside on an historic terrace in fourth largest city was also the first capital of assistance during the project. summer. Choose from a great range of cocktails, the unified country until 1865 and no expense including the Negroni, and all drinks come with was spared on the palaces of Piedmont’s rulers As the heartland of the Italian car industry, aperitivo nibbles. - the House of Savoy. Most people think of Fiat the National Automobile Museum is an almost when the name Turin pops up but, like Detroit, mandatory part of any trip. The Clint Eastwood Another hotspot is Bocciofila Mossetto in the the city endured economic decline in the 1980s movie, Gran Torino, was named after the lead stylish Aurora neighbourhood. People of all ages until lavish spending on the Winter Olympics character’s obsession with a 1972 Ford Gran come here to enjoy a game of bocce, the Italian of 2006 revamped the central boulevards that Torino, named in honour of Turin. Extensively version of boules, a game of cards and an aperitivo. resemble Paris. refurbished in 2011, the futuristic venue houses But the trendiest bars and restaurants congregate hundreds of vehicles from early prototypes from in the San Salvario district where the historic alleys Torino, as the city is called in Italian, has the mid-19th century powered by steam to the and streets are an Instagrammer’s fantasy. attracted an increasing number of tourists latest Ferrari racing cars. over the past decade because of its cultural, Turin has serious gourmet chops. Vitello social, food and wine attractions. In a country Turin has serious gourmet tonnato, the famous dish of sliced veal in tuna awash with museums, the city has three of the sauce, was created here. Ditto panna cotta, best. Rome and the Cinecitta Studios occupy chops. Vitello tonnato, the bollito misto and agnolotti. White truffles are centre stage in the Italian movie industry, but everywhere during the season, sparking up the National Museum of Cinema in Turin is one famous dish of sliced veal pasta and risotto dishes. As are the region’s of Italy’s most visited attractions. Housed in famous wines - barolo and barbaresco. the Mole Antonelliana, a neo-classical building in tuna sauce, was created originally designed as a synagogue, there’s Turin’s fine dining restaurants are lauded a huge permanent collection of memorabilia, here. Ditto panna cotta, throughout Italy. The Michelin-starred Ristorante props and equipment from the earliest days Del Cambio, founded in 1757, has welcomed of Italian cinema in the late 19th century to the bollito misto and agnolotti. Mozart, Verdi and Casanova. There are two main present. The icing on the cake is the view of spaces - the historic, mirrored dining room and the city and the surrounding Alps from the top Located between the Alps and the Po Valley, the new contemporary space uplifted by the of the dome. Turin’s culinary and wine heritage is a major mural-like paintings of Pistoletto, the Arte Povera drawcard. Let’s start with vermouth. Other claims icon. The menu changes constantly but the six- Another major surprise is the Egyptian Museum, aside, most enthusiasts agree that vermouth was course tasting menu at $220 has many takers. which boasts a collection second only to the invented in Turin in the mid-18th century and Museum of Antiquities in Cairo. Kickstarted as the Cinzano and Martini & Rossi brands are as For cheese and wine buffs, Ristorante a personal interest of the ruling Savoy family, synonymous with the city as Fiat. The Milanese Consorzio, is the place to savour local cheeses things really moved into high gear in the early may have popularised the aperitivo, but Turin like castelmagno and fontina, and top quality 20th century. Leading Italian archaeologists, was its birthplace. The tradition is alive and barolos and barbarescos for fairly reasonable Ernesto Schiaparelli and Giulio Farina, brought well, and my favourite place to join the locals prices. The four-course tasting menu is elegant back more than 30,000 artefacts to Turin. Just is Tre Galli in the historic Quadrilatero Romana yet rustic and a steal at $68. The hero dish is as the Egyptian government gave the Temple of neighbourhood. The surrounding streets are full agnolotto gobbo, pillows of house-made pasta Dendur to the Metropolitan Museum in New York filled with veal. because the US helped to relocate priceless monuments during the construction of the Aswan Al Gatto Nero, the black cat in English, is one of the most recommended restaurants in town from hotel concierges to nearly everyone you meet. The founding Vannelli family, which 22 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au still owns the venue, opened its doors in 1927 GIFT SUBSCRIPTION as a trattoria. Back in the 1960s it gained two Michelin stars, but lost them when trying too Tel: 08 8357 9277 hard to follow the global fusion trend. The food www.winestate.com.au is now upmarket traditional from appetisers such as baccala montecato on mashed potatoes to ragu slow-cooked in barolo and served with the hand-made pasta of the day. Just across from the National Museum of Cinema you’ll find Magorabin, nestled behind a late 18th century facade. With a Michelin star, the restaurant is operated by Marcello Trentini. Magorabin is a local dialect word for a mythical figure invoked by mothers to get their children to finish their meals. Trentini doesn’t go that far but he does make the rounds of the dining room to ensure that guests have enjoyed their meals. There are four tasting menus under the headings - land, water, air and fire. A true wine lover’s choice because of the huge wine cellar. The Slow Food Movement started in Piedmont in the mid-1990s and the Salone del Gusto Slow Food Festival is held in Turin every two years. Considering the global fame of barolo, it’s surprising that many of the estates and vineyards that produce the robust red are fairly small. The barolo wine region is 70km south of Turin and worth a day trip or two. The small town of Barolo itself boasts a picturesque castle, some good wine shops and two restaurants - La Cantinetta and Osteria La Cantinella - serving succulent local dishes like wild boar with barbera sauce and risotto with radicchio. The nearby village of Serralunga d’Alba is worth a detour, especially for the tiny Vinoteca Centro Storico where the wine list is spectacular. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 23

PEAK PERFORMER WINSOR DOBBIN MOUNT Avoca is one of the pioneers of Victoria’s cool-climate Pyrenees wine region and will celebrate its 50th birthday in 2020. Vigneron Matthew Barry says it is hitting new peaks. Located just outside Avoca, one of the first towns of the 1850s gold rush that shaped early Victoria, Mount Avoca is popular with visitors enjoying the region’s rich history. Purchased as a rural escape by Melbourne stockbroker John Barry (son of former Victorian High Court Judge Sir John Barry), the Moates Lane property was initially planted with shiraz, semillon and trebbiano. With 24ha under vine, a small portion of fruit sourced from local growers and a production of around 15,000 cases a year, Mount Avoca remains a boutique producer - but one with a wide range of grape varieties, including shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay and newer styles like tempranillo, lagrein, viognier. In recent years under second-generation owner-vigneron Barry, there has been a focus on organics with full organic certification for the winery and all wines made from estate-grown fruit. “My parents had an ethos that everything should be 100 per cent estate grown, made and bottled,” Barry says. “My Dad was very much about being clean and green, and were using the fewest sprays possible even back in the 1990s. “I remember attending an organic wine event in Melbourne in the early 2000s and being impressed by the vivacity, freshness and lively fruit so many of those wines possessed. I was inspired by their energy.” Work towards organics began almost immediately, with the estate vineyards certified in 2013 and the winery in 2016. “We are almost accidentally organic,” Barry says. “Initially we weren’t looking for certification. We wanted to have the best quality and flavour profiles - to treat the vineyards like our own back gardens. “We were already using minimal pesticides, so decided to take the last step. “Some people don’t really understand that farming organically is all about that quest for quality.” Barry gives a lot of the credit for Mount Avoca’s recent run of show successes to general manager for winemaking and viticulture David Darlow, who took over from Dominic Bosch in early 2017. The former chief winemaker at Boynton’s Feathertop and Buller’s in Rutherglen has over 30 years of experience in the wine industry and has worked vintages in California and Italy. “David is great in the vineyards as well as in the winery,” Barry says. “He’s obsessive about quality - but in a very positive way. We’ve picked up a lot of show awards and got some great show results. “There have been times in the past when maybe we could have been accused of being inconsistent. It has been a long time coming but there is no doubt that our fruit quality right now is better than it ever has been. A testament to this is Mount Avoca taking out the Winestate Merlot of the Year in this years Winestate Wine of the Year awards, see page 89. 24 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

winestatepromotion This part of Victoria probably makes more elegant wine styles than some other states. We make lower volumes and are less focused on alcohol and tannins. “Everything we do, we do by hand and that is reflected in the quality of the wines.” Darlow says he enjoys involvement in every aspect of wine production. “I enjoy working holistically from grape to glass,” he says. “Here I am managing all inputs within a super-premium, cool-climate, certified-organic vineyard and winery.” Barry says Mount Avoca is “clean and green and gets a lot of sunshine” - all the natural attributes. “This part of Victoria probably makes more elegant wine styles than some other states. We make lower volumes and are less focused on alcohol and tannins. “We are looking for layers of flavours, complexity and elegance. Not heavy but flavour packed. We have cold nights but very warm summer days and people are surprised to learn we harvest at the same time as the Yarra Valley. Our diurnal variation is certainly a big bonus when it comes to varieties like shiraz and cabernets. “We work hard in the vineyard and even small things count. When we are picking grapes, I don’t want the truck driver taking a break for a cigarette when the fruit could be being delivered to the crusher-destemmer. It may only be a delay of three or four minutes but small things like that can affect overall quality.” The picturesque vineyards are surrounded by olive trees, and the cellar door is well appointed with barbecue facilities and play areas for children to enjoy while their parents taste. The cellar door is open seven days a week with tables and chairs in the shade of old gum trees and lawns next to the vines. Bring your own meat for a barbecue, or pre-order a picnic hamper in advance. With so much in their favour, why do Mount Avoca and the Pyrenees region tend to fly under the radar? “Most of the wineries are small family operations,” says Barry. “Farming is the core business with not a lot of money to be thrown about on promotion. There is also the tyranny of geography. We are 180km from Melbourne and wine lovers find it a lot easier to visit the Yarra, Mornington Peninsula or the Bellarine. “That’s a real pity as the region produces wines that offer great value for money.” LUXURY LODGES NESTLED among the vines and olive trees eco-luxe @ mount avoca are three self-contained lodges that offer modern luxuries with a nod to eco sensibility. All three lodges have large picture windows overlooking Mount Avoca and the Pyrenees range. Visitors can browse a library of books from supreme court Judge Sir John Barry’s collection and luxuriate in king bedrooms that feature quality beautiful linens and overlook the vines. A second bedroom offers bunks beds for two, while complimentary continental breakfast provisions and a bottle of Mount Avoca Estate range wine are included. Gourmet meals or picnic hampers can also be arranged with prior notice. There are more than 20 cellar doors to explore in the region and the historic town of Ballarat is under an hour’s drive away from the lodges. Visit eco-luxe.com.au.

THE WRITE STUFF BLOGGERS ARE PLAYING AN INCREASING ROLE IN GROWING THE WINE INDUSTRY. DAN TRAUCKI LAST October the annual global Wine Media Conference (WMC) was held • An increase in wine tourism in Australia: Mainly from China, with in the Hunter Valley. Formerly called the Wine Bloggers Conference, the China now having replaced New Zealand as the largest source of WMC has been going for 12 years and this was the first time it was held visitors to Australia. Based on current trends, by 2026 Australia will be outside of the US, thanks to some funding from Wine Australia (a very seeing around 28 million tourists visiting each year. Other patterns are small part of the $50 million invested by the government). that Chinese and Indian tourists tend to stay in the major cities while European and American tourists tend to explore more and wander While not as well attended as previous conferences (due to the travel around the country. Needless to say, the Search Engine Optimisation costs for the overseas attendees), conference participants came from (SEO) benefits were pushed quite hard as a way to increase online the US, China, Japan, Europe as well as from around Australia. Unlike visibility. Other points from this presentation were that it is important in Australia, where wine blogging is basically “a labour of love,” in the to promote Australia’s “clean and green” image with Asian visitors and US wine blogging is a viable business, with many of the bloggers having the need to have a WeChat or other Chinese approved/functioning 50,000 - 100,000 subscribers, and thereby wielding considerable influence account as most western systems are locked out of China. on wine consumption. • An increasing demand and interest in Organic wines: The global On the Monday through Wednesday prior to the conference, the interest in organic and biodynamic wines is steadily increasing. More organisers put on an excursion for the overseas attendees to Queensland’s so in organic wine than biodynamic wine, which is still misunderstood Granite Belt wine region, with cooperation from the Queensland Wine by a considerable proportion of wine drinkers. Industry Association and Granite Belt Wine Tourism. Here visitors were shown/exposed to some of the new emerging varieties the Granite Belt is • Rosé is graduating to become a recreational drink rather than becoming famous for. This was interesting for the US visitors as Australia is just a summer wine: The “rise and rise” of rosé over the last few significantly more adventurous in exploring the suitability of new varieties years shows no sign of abating, as wine drinkers shift from it being a to its climate than the rest of the wine world. summer wine through to it being a leisure and recreational drink. This trend is set to continue. Rosé hits on Google in Australia grew by 35 The conference was organised by the US-based Zephyr Conferences per cent last year to 500,000. At present the searches peak in spring organisation, in conjunction with Wine Communicators of Australia. Allan and summer, but the spike is not as steep as it used to be and there is Wright, from the former, and Lynda Schenk, from the latter, opened the an increasing number of searches being done in autumn and winter. conference early on Thursday afternoon to welcome the attendees. This was followed directly by a presentation - Google’s View of the Wine World, • Wine expectations and experiences vary significantly by generation: from Google Travel’s Damien Ferreira Gomes, senior industry manager. Including the fact that innovation and Apps are key to attracting and holding on to the current 18-34-year-olds. For Gen Z, health is the most Gomes advised that in 2018 there were 20 million searches for wine in important issue and any positives/benefits should be highlighted. Australia and this is growing at the rate of 15 per cent a year. He spoke of four future identified trends in wine. 26 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

The Friday morning sessions started with an introduction and overview have two or more phones. There are 802 million internet users and a billion of the Hunter Valley, which included its history and current developments mobile social media users. Thereby demonstrating that mobile social such as the increasing use of technology and emerging varieties to adapt/ media has outstripped the use of the internet in China. Active mobile social cope with climate change. Particularly amusing was the Hunter saying in media users has been growing by around 10 per cent per year, which relation to emerging varieties: “If it has an ‘O’ in the name, give it a go.” is a growth of about 95 million people a year. This clearly shows that for This applies to varieties such as fiano, vermentino, petit verdot, nebbiolo, wineries it is more important to have a mobile social media platform than sangiovese and especially tempranillo, of which a number of Hunter a website on the internet. Other interesting information from this session wineries have planted recently. was that the median age in China is 38.7 years (lower than in western economies) and that the average literacy rate is 95 per cent of all people The next session was that of keynote speaker Colorado’s, Bruce aged 15-years and over. Further, it was stated that 97 per cent of the Schoenfeld, contributing writer to the World of Fine Wine, who has over population use a mobile device, whereas only 53 per cent use a lap top 30-years of journalistic experience. His style is frank and informative, and or desk top computer, with 95.4 per cent of active internet users using a his works have graced the pages of many of the most respected wine mobile device, and 83 per cent of them using it at least daily. Sixty-one publications in the world. He spoke of how to create a lasting impression per cent of mobile users do banking online. The main implication of this and how to cope with the current, rapidly changing environment so as to is that only 18 per cent of women and 23 per cent of men have a credit stay successful and develop as a wine journalist. card, whereas 48 per cent of women and 49 per cent of men purchase online. Thus online direct sales are significantly more important that credit This was followed by a session on wine media in China. The initial card sales in China, with 74 per cent of mobile users reporting that they presentation was about the wine industry in China, which is currently purchase online from their phone. As of January, 2019, the online spending undergoing its third restructure this century, as importers significantly on the category of “food and personal care,” which includes wine, was reduce stocks, and preferences see imports of Australian wine surpassing $46.25 billion a year and growing at around 19 per cent. French wine for the first time. During this re-structure, six of the top 14 wine companies posted a loss in China. With western media platforms (Facebook, etc) not accessible in China, the most used Chinese platform is WeChat, with 79 per cent of mobile Looking to the future, wine sales are expected to resume growing in users using this platform. This is followed by Baidu Tieba at 72 per cent, 2020, but with 140,000 different wine brands having entered China so far in QQ (68 per cent), Sina Weibo (60 per cent), Youku (59 per cent) and then 2019, the growth will be sporadic and very much dependent on consumer QZone, Tencent Weibo and Tudou with 30 per cent. demand rather than importer expectation, as happened previously. In effect, more but smaller orders for the brands that are successful in the This presentation was followed by a tasting of Groupe Pernod Ricard retail market place. wines from around the world. It included wines made from grapes grown on unique terroirs from France, New Zealand, Spain, America and Australia. Next in this session came an interesting presentation on social media in China, which showed that while there are 1.4 billion people in China, Trish Barry then presented a session, The importance of Digital Marketing there are actually 1.5 billion mobile phone subscriptions, as some people Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 27

In the US wine blogging is a viable business, with many of the bloggers having 50,000 - 100,000 subscribers, and thereby wielding considerable influence on wine consumption. and Why We Are All Doing it Wrong. It was a guide to effective digital from Gourmet Traveller Magazine (GTM), Liz Barrett, from What’s in that marketing, how the scene is constantly changing, the setting of realistic Bottle and Christina Tulloch, from Tulloch Wines, discussed the differences goals, strategies and tools to implement these and how to analyse the and similarities of writing for print or online audiences. Martin provided results. It included advice that, “it is more important to make a big impact statistics for GMT in print and online, where the print skew was 80 per on a smaller number of people, than a small impact on a large number cent male to 20 per cent female, whereas online the skew is 56 per cent of people.” There were plenty of other helpful hints as well suggestions female to 44 per cent male. Women tend to prefer digital media as they as to what tools to use to establish your program and to monitor that you are able to “consume it in bite size chunks” as and when their busy lives are on the right path. allows them to do so. In her presentation, Martin explained the difference in blogging between Australia and the US, where it is significantly more The message was to build a strong website focused on building traffic, prominent and important, and is a viable income source for the better with optimised content, and then constantly change/upgrade it so that operators. The concept of “style over substance” was discussed and we people keep coming back to see what’s new. That is, “curiosity is the were advised that most consumers don’t really care about new releases, key”. Therefore, keep on testing and trialling new things and use tools unless it is of their very favourite wine. Tulloch put a winery’s perspective like Google analytics to measure their effectiveness. on the topic, which neatly wrapped up the discussion. The last session of the afternoon was a concept that was new to me, The next session - Increase your online following - and was presented “speed wine dating” or as they called it “live wine social”. We sat at by Polly Hammond, from 5forests, a digital marketing change agency. tables of eight and a winemaker would approach and have five minutes This session looked at the situation from the other side of the fence - in which to pour one of their red wines and talk about them, while his/her the consumer and how we can entice them on board by standing for audience posted live to social media (mainly Twitter), then they would something, showing empathy, being confident and self-assured, and go to another table and be replaced by a new winemaker. There were 19 most importantly constantly changing tactics to avoid boredom and to wineries from around Australia involved and it was interesting to see the exceed expectations. level of preparedness of the different wineries, with some of the smallest being the best prepared with tasting hand-outs for their audience and The wines served with lunch were from Pernod Ricard, including a couple other props such as samples of their soils, whereas most of the larger of delicious reds from its St Hugo Range. companies arrived at the table with just their bottle of wine. Lightning Talks was the final session, where six fellow attendees The action continued on the Saturday morning, with the choice of presented a five-minute talk on what they do in the industry or a future vision attending one of the two sessions being run concurrently. I chose to attend for it. They had 20 slides prepared which were loaded into a specifically the Online Versus Print Wine Writers session where panellists Josh Martin, timed sequence so that the speaker had to match their talk to the changing 28 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

slides. This is an interesting concept which certainly keeps the speakers as a keyboard-free future happening very soon, SEO’s (Search Engine on their time schedule and works extremely well. The first of the speakers was Dr Richard Baxter, whose book Wine & Health, is just about to be Optimisation), relevant hash tags, the fact that 10 per cent of users already released. It is a detailed history of wine and medicine in Australia and the 180 doctors who have established vineyards, including Dr Max Lake, buy via the Voice Assistant App. As well as the fact that while 80 per cent who is credited with starting the boutique winery phenomena in Australia when he set up Lakes Folly in the Hunter Valley during the mid-1960s. of people who visit a website read the headlines, only 20 per cent read Steve Noel was next and he spoke on the need for humour in wine and on through to the end of the article, so it has to be gripping to get them to how music affects wine decisions. Other speakers covered matters such read all the way through. During the closing comments, conference supremo Allan Wright, of Zephyr Conferences, announced that the 2020 Conference will be held in Eugene, Oregon, in the US. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 29

30 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

A YEAR OF PAIN AND PLEASURE Virnetpao2g0er1t9 CHARLES GENT INITIAL predictions of a savage reduction in In Orange, the winter saw record low the total national wine crush may not have temperatures coupled with meagre rain before completely materialised, but the record high giving way to a warm and dry growing season temperatures experienced across many regions that was, however, free of extreme heat spikes. in 2019 did make heavy inroads on yields. Picking was quick and frantic, and while yields Irrigation - where water was available in the were down in some varieties, fruit quality has wake of an often desiccated spring and summer been classed by winemakers as extremely high. - was in widespread use across most of south- east Australia. Western Australia, conversely, Mudgee gained some relief with rain in was coping with a cool and occasionally damp January from an otherwise very warm and dry season where disease and famished birds posed season that saw whites picked in early February the significant threats. and reds wrapping up in mid-March. Yields were necessarily down, but fruit flavour and As is so often the case, reduced yields brought concentration were very pleasing. talk of high quality fruit from many winemakers around the country. For Canberra, winter drought was followed by record high temperatures in summer, After a near-ideal season for Queensland’s interspersed with dumps of rain and hail. As a Granite Belt of warm days, cool nights and bonus, a dust-storm hit with gale force winds. virtually no disease that left many vignerons Autumn mercifully arrived with cool nights and jubilant at their fruit quality, a cruelly timed late warm dry days, ideal for ripening premium fruit. season bushfire in Girraween National Park Yields were inevitably down, but the quality looks left several wineries facing heavy losses from good. “Not a bad result,” said Ken Helm. smoke taint. The Riverina was faced with very dry conditions Below the border in New South Wales it was and periods of extreme record heat to the point also warm and dry, but the Hunter Valley’s that some ripening was interrupted by vine endemic furies of hail, extreme heat and mildew shutdown. The region was heavily reliant on again stayed mostly in the wings. Growing irrigation to maintain yields. conditions were judged “solid” and, thanks to timely rain, yields were only slightly reduced. In the Yarra Valley, the dry winter and spring Quality was high and good flavours are expected were mitigated by rains in late November and in both whites and reds. December. There were some very hot summer days, but a long, mild and disease-free autumn Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 31

saw average yields attained, along with good vintage is considered potentially outstanding. was negligible and a cool, dry April led to quality in both reds and whites after a very South Australia’s hottest summer on record steady ripening, with both shiraz and cabernet compressed vintage thanks to a burst of late expected to shine. heat. Mornington Peninsula lost some of its fruit and an extended scarcity of rain made life tough set to early rain and then experienced warm for growers in South Australia, with irrigation The Riverland juggled early season mildew conditions that brought harvest on quickly. the necessary remedy. The Barossa copped a with arcing baume and berry shrivel from the Although some milder late conditions slowed triple whammy, with a severe October frost and succession of heat waves. Highly compressed ripening in higher sites, it was still a hectic time a vicious hail-storm in November followed by ripening and picking meant logistics were for the wineries. Yields were lower than usual, sustained hot and dry conditions. The result: fraught, although ultimately yields were down but the fruit quality has been highly praised. radically reduced yields, down by 30 per cent only by 2 per cent. overall in the Barossa and up to 50 per cent On the back of good early season rains, in Eden Valley, the lowest (ironically) since the Western Australia yet again went its own merry Geelong contended with minimal rain thereafter notoriously cool and damp 2011. The limited way. Although spring rainfall was scarce, lower and also faced hot weather in late February and supply is nonetheless expected to produce than average temperatures produced a long, early March. Picking was condensed, but the exceptional quality and flavours, particularly in cool growing season and a late vintage in most fruit structure and intensity is very promising, shiraz, cabernet and grenache. regions. There was some disease resulting and chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz are all from humidity as well as threats from birds and much fancied. The arid conditions severely reduced yields insects, which because of a lack of native plant- in Clare, too, although riesling, the regional blossom made a bee-line for the vineyards. Rutherglen’s spring was mild and dry, but was champion, proved resilient and showed good succeeded by fierce heat throughout December citrus characters, while robust flavours are Margaret River had cool conditions and mid- and January. Respite came from a cool spell in expected in the reds. McLaren Vale was also season rain, causing substantial loss of yield early February, which made for a surprisingly subject to the dry and hot conditions as well from mould for some growers. On the up-side, punctual and manageable harvest. Yields were as the hail, and although fruit quality was good a long hang-period allowed ideal ripening for down, but compensation came from good fruit in shiraz, grenache and cabernet, lower bunch chardonnay, with many makers beaming over flavours, especially in the reds. weights brought yields down by about a quarter grape quality. from last year. In the Adelaide Hills, severe cold Heathcote, Bendigo, the Grampians and weather at flowering meant yields came down by In Great Southern, conditions were similar, Pyrenees all experienced hot and dry conditions close to a half, even though the region escaped although late heavy rain made the timing of picking leading up to a brief and intense vintage. Yields the worst of the State’s heat. Good autumn crucial; a “tricky” vintage. Fruit quality, however, is were markedly reduced from last year, but grape ripening ensured high fruit quality. high, especially in pinot and riesling. Geographe quality was generally greeted as remarkably had a wet winter and a consistently cooler good. It was very much the same story for the It was warm in Langhorne Creek and dry apart January and February. Disease stayed away King and Alpine valleys, but with a very welcome from a heavy fall in December. Lake breezes did even if the silver-eyes didn’t, and the outcome is cool finish. help to offset high temperatures, and although slightly lessened yields of aromatic and intensely overall yields were down by 3 per cent, high fruit flavoured fruit, showing excellent quality in both Tasmania’s cooler climate came decisively into quality was reported. whites and reds. Pemberton managed to combine play in 2019, and if the rain stayed away so too high yields with excellent quality. did disease. Warmer conditions that saw early The Coonawarra and the southerly Limestone flavour development eased into a long, cool Coast regions fared better, thanks to good The sometimes overheated Swan Valley enjoyed autumn. In a few areas yields were actually up, winter rains and more moderate temperatures its milder if dry conditions and is reporting one of and the fruit quality and flavour is such that the attributable to ocean influence. Yield loss its best vintages in living memory, particularly for its signature whites, chenin blanc and verdelho. 32 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

The overall estimated crush in 2019 was 1.73 Few growers had an million tonnes. Given the prolonged hot and dry easy 2019, but on the conditions felt in most of the country, it seems positive side grape prices almost remarkable that the loss of volume was went up for the fifth only 3 per cent overall on last year, and very successive year, sustained close to the long-term average. More of the by the strength of export pain was felt in cooler regions, with the brunt of demand, primarily from reduced yields borne by white grapes, which lost the Chinese market. 5 per cent of their total. Even with a reduction of 12 per cent in volume, chardonnay production continues to dwarf that of other white varieties, while shiraz (down by 2 per cent) easily retains its dominance among the reds. Prosecco, with its production up by 42 per cent, made a flying leap into the top 10 white varieties, although a cloud hangs over the usage of its name. Few growers had an easy 2019, but on the positive side grape prices went up for the fifth successive year, sustained by the strength of export demand, primarily from the Chinese market. One unavoidable and fundamental trend continues to trouble the Australian wine industry: increasing average temperatures. As growing season temperatures continue their climb under the influence of climate change, it seems inevitable that heat-resistant and drought- tolerant varieties from Spain and Italy will increase their role in Australian vineyards. And in many regions, increasing recourse to irrigation means finding ways to address an uncertain water supply will remain a preoccupation for the foreseeable future. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 33

winestatepromotion Centennial SPARKLERS A SUCCESS STORY Centennial sparkles with three out of five wines Top 5 sparklings for 2019! ELISABETH KING WHEN talk turns to the New South postgraduate degree in oenology and viticulture, the Year (of which Centennial Vineyards took out Wales Southern Highlands wine- had worked in leading wine regions around the three of the top 5 finalist awards for their Blanc de growing region, Centennial world, including Marlborough, the Barossa and Blancs, Brut Rosé and Brut Traditionelle). The wine Vineyards leads the conversation. Hunter valleys, Frankland in WA and Sonoma in also received 95 points in the Halliday 2020 Wine Over the past 20 years, winemaker the US. “I met John and we were both committed Companion and won Best Sparkling in Show at the Tony Cosgriff has kicked serious to making top quality wines, so I applied for the job 2019 Australian Highlands Wine Show, in addition goals and forged a formidable and have been the winemaker since 2001,” he adds. to five trophies at other leading wine shows. reputation for sparkling wines. The Centennial Vineyards Brut Over 26 vintages later, Cosgriff is still as passionate Brut Traditionelle is a flagship product, says as the day he started. “We are 750m above sea level Cosgriff. “But we also make a Brut Rosé and Traditionelle, a benchmark and quite elevated,” he says. “The area is about four Blanc de Noirs we are very proud of. We have also multi-vintage blend, has led the to five degrees cooler than Sydney, which is why made a sparkling wine solely from pinot meunier the local Aboriginal people came here to escape grapes as consumers today like to experiment charge with six trophies, 10 the heat. We started making sparkling wines early and are looking for wines and varietals they may gold medals and a Top 5 in because of their exceptional crispness and acidity. I have heard of but don’t know much about. We this year's Winestate Wine love making sparkling wines because of their unique had the meunier grapes for traditional methode personalities and complex production techniques.” champenoise styles, so I thought ‘why not’ and I of the Year awards. have been very pleased with the result.” Well-known wine retailer There’s nothing cookie cutter about Cosgriff's approach. The Centennial Vineyards Late Centennial Vineyards is geared to small batch and entrepreneur John Large Disgorged Sparkling, of which only 1344 bottles wine making and Cosgriff likes to push the and investor Mark Dowling of the beautifully balanced and structured wine envelope. Because of the cool climate in the purchased the Bowral were made, was rested for nearly 10 years on lees Southern Highlands, grapes ripen more slowly property in 2000 and were before disgorging in 2018. Showing the wineries than in warmer regions to yield more balanced, keenly aware of its cool- commitment to quality in its long term approach. aromatic fruit. The 32ha Bowral vineyard is planted climate status. Cosgriff, a The winery’s Blanc de Blancs received 5 stars in to chardonnay, riesling, pinot gris, alberino, pinot New Zealander who studied the Winestate Wines of NSW tasting and is a top 5 meunier, pinot noir, gewurtztraminer, gruner physical and analytical Finalist in this year's Winestate Sparkling Wine of veltliner and tempranillo grapes. The winery’s chemistry at Christchurch University and obtained a 34 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

still wines are also worth seeking out as they are Centennial Vineyards also regular recipients of show awards. The 2018 is geared to small Reserve Gruner Veltliner scored five stars in the batch wine making and Winestate Emerging Varietals Awards and the 2016 Cosgriff likes to push the Limited Release Bridge Creek Cabernet Sauvignon received four-and-a-half stars in the China Southern envelope. Airlines Cabernet & Bordeaux Challenge IX. Cosgriff is always looking for ways to improve and stretch his boundaries. As well as the Bowral vineyard, Centennial acquired the Bridge Creek Vineyard in Orange in 2010 and plantings have been extended to mencia, rondinella, corvina, pinot noir, shiraz and viognier, as well as cabernet sauvignon and merlot. “I am also experimenting with other Italian red grapes such as barbera and amarone della valpolicella styles.” Centennial Vineyards has become a standard bearer for the NSW Southern Highlands region. Its proximity to Sydney - less than a two-hour drive - is a major drawcard. “We’ve been around for a while now and have been consistently winning major awards for over 19 years,” adds Cosgriff. “But the Southern Highlands remains a new wine region for many people and I find that very exciting. From the start, John Large realised that wine tourism and our popular restaurant would be key to our success. The fact that we have so many tourist attractions in the area from Morton National Park to the International Cricket Hall of Fame allows me to have 40 estate wines in the restaurant and cellar door. It’s hard work but I sometimes have to pinch myself that I am also being paid to have fun.” Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 35

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS THE opening of Fino Vino in the Adelaide CBD Smith had previously been the highly experienced restaurants, though initially as a waiter with more in December is the latest and much anticipated sous chef at Fino Willunga before moving to attitude than the Italian football team. He ended venture by Fino Seppeltsfield partners David Seppeltsfield, and while he reflects all that he’s up not just telling the chefs how to do their job but Swain and Sharon Romeo. learned with Swain he’s now stamping his own ultimately doing it for them, and better. For Furlan authority on its kitchen. With 150,000 visitors a year it’s more than cooking, it’s almost a philosophical And while they see it as almost coming full circle to Seppeltsfield, he’s had to provide a series of mission, the best or nothing, and you can tell when back to the style they set at their original Fino sharing menus ranging from a relatively fast lunch you eat his food that no corners have been cut. south of the city at Willunga, their firm guiding to what has been described as “the best place in hand continues at Seppeltsfield, although now Australia for a long lunch”. And while La La La, blandly located under a very much the day-to-day responsibility of head multi-story apartment building doesn’t look much chef Sam Smith. Summery dishes might include a gorgeous from the street, Furlan managed to capture the looking salad of beetroot, blood orange with best restaurant chairs in Adelaide when the Which means that despite the distraction of walnuts and witlof, or asparagus with baby broad former Alphutte closed down, all soft black leather, their new city venture, nothing will change at beans with chopped salted ricotta and green ensuring his customers are the best seated in town. Seppeltsfield which, in fact, continues to evolve almonds. With any luck there’ll be some sort of very positively under Smith’s stewardship. roast chicken dish, possibly the best chicken you’ll They’ll also get some of the finest Italian cooking. ever eat, while carnivores can enjoy a 40-day dry After starting with a slice of crisp, fluffy pizzeta with Fino Seppeltsfield has been a major part of aged rib-eye steak with chard gratin and a side of prosciutto and a perfect ball of burrata, next come a massive $3 million restoration program by duck fat potatoes. dishes such as very simply treated grilled calamari, Seppeltsfield owner Warren Randall, creating a total served with a chilli and a dash of balsamic, or an of three dining areas: the original 1850s bottling hall Wines, not surprisingly, include the fast exemplary vitello tonnato, perfectly poached rare that includes the main restaurant and cellar door expanding Seppeltsfield range, and of course in duck stock served with tuna mayonnaise. facilities, a semi-subterranean dining area housed the famed fortified. Lunch daily, dinner Friday- within the 1868 bluestone wine fermentation tanks, Saturday. 730 Seppeltsfield Rd, Seppeltsfield; Another classic, saltimbocca, is also a perfect and an al fresco area overlooking a huge terraced phone (08) 8562 8528. rendition - top quality veal layered with prosciutto, courtyard and fountain. served with roast vegetables on the side. If you Adelaide has greatly enjoyed speak nicely to the waiter, Furlan might even Swain is a chef who pioneered an almost the recent arrival of two very prepare a mixed dish of grilled veal at one end, obsessive focus on finding the best regional modern style Italian restaurants roast potato with peperonata in the middle and produce, with an open back door kitchen that in l’Italy and Nido (both floured and fried flathead fillet with a squeeze of welcomed local goodies, while Romeo mastered previously reviewed in Adelaide lemon juice at the other. the art of a small wine list that sought out the Grapevine), but there remains best and most interesting local wines, while a very significant place for a Perhaps his best dish, although not always providing challenges with imports from around the restaurant that continues to available, is a baked duck risotto, where the world. Both have won numerous awards for their provide true to tradition Italian rice has been cooked in duck stock, served with respective skills. cooking at a very high standard, pistachio crumble on top. Open for breakfast and that’s to be found at La La and lunch Monday to Friday, dinner Tuesday to La Osteria. Saturday, La La La, 19 Gilles St, Adelaide; phone (08) 8212 3535. The name, says owner-chef Marco Furlan, was for his mother, Top left: Beetroot and blood orange salad from Fino restaurant. a singer who, when she forgot Top right: Veal, flathead and peperonata from La La La Osteria. the words to a song, would sing Bottom left: Pizza from La La La Osteria restaurant. “la, la, la”, as one does. Furlan has a long history in Adelaide’s better-known Italian 36 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN MELBOURNE is embracing comfort food, spinach, sage, 48-month-old grana and buckwheat Fred’s Bar, is an all-day adventure where guests especially seeing the opening of venues serving gnocchi with pumpkin, capers and almonds. pair morning coffees from 5 Senses with fresh French and Italian-inspired menus. It’s going to pastries or a selection of European breakfast be a bright 2020! The chef embraces more culinary freedom at specials. A menu of small plates is served from dinner. Guests can choose a five-course tasting 11:30am with house-cured conserves with toasted Inspired by the informal osteria of northern menu with or without matching wines, or order a baguette, preserved lemon, tomato, oregano Italy, chef Nicola Romano and manager Osvaldo la carte. Move through dishes like fior di latte with and crispy fried rockling baguette, cabbage Tognella have opened Oster Eatery on Bridge smoked eggplant and romesco; risotto vialone slaw, tartare sauce and a delicious Victorian Rd, Richmond. nano - a semi-fino rice variety - with red capsicum, Southern Ranges grass-fed porterhouse marble black garlic and bottarga, and free range lamb +4, shoestring fries and salad. 9-11 Cremorne St, Romano and Tognella are both from Lombardy loin from the Lachlan Valley, NSW, with asparagus, Cremorne; phone (03) 9089 7224. in northern Italy but actually met in Melbourne peas and chicory. in late 2015 when Tognella took a job at Artusi in Stating it to be a “Melbourne restaurant that Southbank where Romano was head chef. The pair “We see Oster as if you’re coming to our home,” serves Italian food,” chef Nicola Dusi (D.O.C connected, both having had extensive international says Romano, “we have an open kitchen, the room Pizzeria, Baby Pizza, Chin Chin) and Andrea experience over the last 15 years. Tognella spent is open so it’s welcoming and easy.” Ceriani (+39 Pizzeria ) have opened The Hardware time at the Bulgari Hotel in Milan, two Ritz Carltons, Club on the city’s Hardware Lane on the site that in Istanbul, Turkey and Okinawa, Japan, adding Tognella’s wine list is all-Australian and succinct, housed Ciao Pizza Napoli for many years. a stint at Coombe Yarra Valley before the move with a selection of 42 bottles with 15 wines by-the- to Melbourne. Romano has cooked in Florence glass. The list changes regularly, and he seeks out, The name pays homage to the site’s history as as sous chef for Entiana Osmenzeza at Se.sto on “organic or biodynamic, single-vineyard and new a social club for hardware trade members in the Arno followed by two internships in San Sebastian wave and European grape varieties grown and 1920s. Head chef Dusi believes food should be at Martin Berasategui (3 Michelins) and one at made in Australia”. 76-78 Bridge Rd, Richmond; “accessible, understandable and craveable” restaurant Viajante in east London (1 Michelin star). phone (03) 9428 0749. and has set out to create a menu that is nurturing rather than trailblazing, “a place for those in-the- The focus at Oster Eatery is on the traditional, Third-generation restaurateurs Nathalie, Edouard know looking for a European and Italian dining community-based idea of the osteria, but the pair and Antoine Reymond (Bistro Gitan, L’Hotel Gitan) experience in a relaxed space,” he says. mix it up with contemporary menus for breakfast, have opened the doors to Frederic and Fred’s Bar, lunch and dinner, based on local produce, presenting all-day European dining to Cremorne In taking over the location of the family-owned matched with a sharp list of Australian drinks. locals and destination diners with the hospitality for Ciao Pizza Napoli, the new restaurateurs spent which the Reymond family is renowned. time getting to know its clientele, their likes and Romano serves a seasonal lunch menu from dislikes, and what they would like to see carried on, Monday to Saturday; perhaps a salumi plate of There are two adjacent venues - the relaxed, resulting in the treasured traditional pizza recipes prosciutto from Borgo (Queensland), mortadella buzzy Fred’s Bar and refined restaurant Frederic being kept on the menu during lunch service, from Mr Cannubi and capocollo from De Palma - the spaces serve separate menus, each a while a more extensive dinner menu is on offer in (New South Wales) next to sourdough bread. collaboration between the Reymonds and head the evenings. O’Connor beef cheek with rice polenta features on chef Nick Deligiannis (formerly Petit Tracteur on the main courses - and pasta, all made in-house the Mornington Peninsula). Italian classics will be presented with - includes handmade casoncelli, with ricotta and contemporary twists and include ossobuco At Frederic, diners can enjoy a modern ravioli Milanese with saffron, garlic, lemon and European culinary offering, with dishes from parsley; an Italian fennel and chilli sausage wheel the Reymonds’ native France, along with with silverbeet and chilli oil, or perhaps ricotta neighbouring Spain and Italy. The menu has a gnocchi, fresh broad beans and vignarola of steak focus, complemented by an ever-changing spring vegetables. 43 Hardware Lane, Melbourne; selection of six seasonal specials that may phone (03) 9670 1110. see broad bean and pea risotto with a Grana Padano emulsion on the menu next to a potato Top left and right: Food from Beaux Rumble restaurant. waffle, asparagus salad, hazelnuts, smoked Bottom left: Interior of Oster Eatery restaurant. goats cheese. Bottom right: Food from Oster Eatery restaurant. Main courses continue the local theme with snapper a la plancha, zucchini puree, fish bacon and baked swede, and glazed lamb scotch fillet with roasted cauliflower puree, Worcestershire sauce and greens. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 37

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL IN terms of hospitality precincts, Howard Smith ways, oysters are steamed with ginger and white and Rumble is a reference to Gilson Rumble Wharves, under the famous Story Bridge and soy, pipis nestle on crispy egg noodles with overlooking the CBD is a behemoth. Relative to XO sauce and whole fish is drenched in chilli Pottery makers who were based in Ipswich and the population, it delivers more dining options and black bean. Carnivores have wagyu and and watering holes than any single district the oyster mushrooms in a black pepper sauce, or Fortitude Valley in the early 1900s. river city has ever seen. kangaroo and broccoli with young kai lan and there’s also delicious lamb ribs done Mongolian Designer Sally Taylor of s.t.udio has brought Catering for those looking for a casual beer and style with cumin, coriander and sesame. a pizza to special occasion dining with all the the New York and local elements together in the trimmings, a plethora of event spaces from giant Tikaram is sourcing local produce, seafood sheds to attractive, repurposed out buildings, from Mooloolaba, Hervey Bay and Maroochydore various spaces of the restaurant, bar and cafe this development has it all. And now, in line is plentiful and sustainable, and he’s already with promises made when the development was found farms that specialise in beautiful young as well as two private dining rooms, aptly named announced in 2017, there’s Stanley, a two-level, Asian greens like siamese watercress, garlic 200-plus seat Cantonese-style restaurant with chive flowers and a plethora of fragrant herbs. the Biltmore and Vanderbilt, the same as Grand Sydney’s Longrain, Bentley and Tetsuya alum, Louis Tikaram taking control of the wok burners. The restaurant is set over two floors of a Central Station. More recently he headed up the opening team heritage-listed building, formerly the HQ of the of EP&LP, a popular Asian fusion restaurant in Brisbane Water Police. The rooms are dark and Monaco Brown marble bench tops, custom- West Hollywood, Los Angeles. cool, and moodily lit with traditional lanterns hanging in clusters, soft water colours adorning designed marble tiles inspired by Art Deco The menu is tantalising and seafood-centric, the walls. Ducks, chickens and spatchcock hang with every kind of local fish, mollusc and from the pass, there are three bars and some stained glass patterns, domed ceilings and crustacean featured in all but two of the 10 hidden dining rooms, intricately panelled and sections (vegetables, of course, and barbecue, beautifully decorated to reflect the colour and hand-made subway tiles in the main dining where pork, duck and poultry take pride of history of its namesake, Stanley Bay, in Hong place). Kong. Also waterfront, Stanley has a rich history room, Art Deco-inspired bathroom ware, oak and many of its venues mix European and Asian There’s a section devoted solely to salt and antiques and decorative touches (like the woven flooring and brass fittings have been curated pepper, and a couple of dim sum platters, one bamboo ceiling in one of the bars) and a lovely with steamed dumplings and the other fried and river-facing terrace where cocktails are served baked goodies. all afternoon and into the evening. 5 Boundary St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3558 9418. The menu is large by modern standards but “Out of the frying pan into the fire.” Is the modest by most Chinese tomes and the seafood quote executive chef Alan Wise has chosen selection really dazzles. Bugs are wok fired two to encapsulate his menu at the all-new Beaux Rumble, a swanky new two-storey venue in Ada Lane, off the James St precinct in Fortitude and included for both their timelessness as well Valley. as their ability to acquire a patina with time. Chef Wise has an impressive international resume. The Victorian native has racked up The menu is contemporary, with a focus on wood- stints in Dublin’s Chapter One as well as New York restaurants Juni, Picholine, Public and as fired cooking of seafood and plant-based dishes. executive chef of Rouge Tomate in Chelsea, where, in 2017, he was awarded 1 Michelin star. And while the inspiration may have come from his The unusual moniker has a story as well time abroad, the produce is sourced locally where - inspiration has come from the Beaux-Arts architecture of New York’s Grand Central Station possible, with reaches for other iconic Aussie favourites from other parts of the country. Moreton Bay squid with ink vinaigrette and pickled fennel is a wholly homegrown dish, but the wood-fired sardines hail from WA and there’s an aromatic dish of Victorian rainbow trout with asparagus and sunchokes. It’s all luxe on the brunch menu - think French-style scrambled eggs topped with oscietra caviar, wood- fired almond granola and grilled mushroom ragout with baked eggs and parmesan cream which you can pair with an iced earl grey tea with yuzu, lemon and bitters. AM5, Ada Lane, 46 James St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3181 3451. Top left: Louis from Stanley restaurant. Top right: Seafood from Stanley restaurant. Left: Interior of Stanley restaurant. 38 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING THERE’S a lot of fast food outlets, chic casual cafes potato pillows in the freshest tomato sauce strewn thyme. I finished the meal with milk, cream sponge and beach bars in Coogee, as you would expect with burrata. Several of the well-built young guys near cake, goat’s milk custard and almond milk granita in a beachside suburb, but few venues for serious us wisely ordered the 800g T-bone steak with rocket which slipped down as easy as a panna cotta. Noi, wine buffs. The Coogee Wine Room has shaken and reggiano, and the lamb rump, spring greens 108 Audley St, Petersham; phone (02) 9337 7377. up this laidback scene, yet lives up to its aim to and tarragon sauce. If you can’t make up your mind, be a community wine destination. Co-owners Tom there’s the Feed Me Menu with five signature dishes Fancy cooking your own meal? Gyusha, the wagyu- Hardwick and Michelle Morales were inspired by for $45 and it’s a wise move to pick the matching only Japanese barbecue restaurant, gives you the frequent trips to many of the world’s great wineries wines for a further $45. chance. The interior looks like a Japanese fine foods and wine regions, and the 400-strong wine list is a market with the shelves filled with Japanese and testament to their passionate commitment. There’s four desserts - cannoli, sgroppino, coffee Australian wagyu beef. The Aussie beef is sourced affogato and the chocolate board which features from the family farm of owners Jon and Angie Choi The front bar was buzzing when we arrived. We treats from Australian wine regions, including the in Binnaway in the central west of NSW. Once you felt immediately at home as venue manager Brooke Barossa and Margaret River. Whether you drop by have selected your cuts of meat or crab, sausages, Adey (ex-Chiswick, Paddo Inn and Bentley Bar) for lunch, dinner or just one great glass of wine, like chicken and ribs, you enter the restaurant proper with greeted us with the hefty, leather-bound wine list in Arnold Schwarzenegger - you’ll be back. Bookings table grills and hanging suction fans. hand. Architects TomMarkHenry (Bistecca, Indigo are accepted but there will always be room for walk- Cafe) have created an elegant yet relaxed space of ins as a nod of respect to Coogee’s lifestyle MO. Gyusha is Sydney’s first restaurant of its kind, exposed brick walls, concrete floors, rich timbers, Coogee Wine Room, 222 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee; known as yakiniku in Japan. It’s fun for a group of marble and leather. A blackened steel staircase leads phone (02) 9665 5478. friends, especially as UTS and Notre Dame University to an upstairs dining room and sleek lounge tailor- are nearby. There’s a great selection of sakes and made for dropping by after an ocean swim or work. Anastasia Drakopoulos is Sydney restaurant Japanese beers to cool you down after sweating royalty. Her father Bill owns the Sydney Restaurant over a hot grill. But you can leave the cooking and We took a while to look at the food menu because Group, including Aqua Dining, Ripples, Ormeggio preparation to the chefs if udon bowls, shabu-shabu, the wine list is the major star of the restaurant. Truly at the Spit and Fenwick. In a shift to the Inner West, sushi and sashimi fit your mood and energy level global in scope, every region gets a guernsey from Drakopoulos has opened Noi in Petersham’s Audley better. Gyusha, 7/6 Central Park Ave, Chippendale; the Alto Adige to the Barossa and 50 varietals vie for St restaurant strip. 0429 837 348. your attention. Over 50 per cent of the listings are priced below $100 and there are 25 wines by the The location used to be a picture framing store but Top left: Food from Coogee Wine Room. glass. There’s a standout selection of half bottles for Barry Babikian of BJB Architects has removed Top right: Interior of Coogee Wine Room restaurant. those who want to amp up their wine chops and a all reminders of the former business. The space Above right: Cannoli from Coogee Wine Room. curated collection of limited editions, select vintages now highlights the building’s historical features of and Mediterranean wines. Cocktails, spirits, beers floorboards and exposed brick, contrasted with and digestifs round out an homage to the best the dark blue upholstery, mood lighting and a gleaming global beverage industry has to offer. concrete bar. Sandro Di Marino (ex-A Tavola) has also come Alessandro Intini (ex-Aqua Dining) and partner up trumps with his Mediterranean-focused menu. It’s Frederica Costa are in charge of the kitchen and worth the trip for the charcuterie plate or just enjoy sommelier Gianluca Casagrande keeps an Italian the wagyu bresaola, prosciutto parma aged for 24 focus on the wine with a sprinkling of French and months or juniper salami on their own. Nibblers can Italian bottlings. also match their wines with the cheese offerings such as cremoso al tartufo and Spring View blue. Noi means “us” in Italian but the menu listings are far from down home. Entrees run the gamut from pink There’s plenty of small share plates for singletons snapper carpaccio to pig’s head terrine and oxtail and couples. We chose Sydney rock oysters from consomme - a tip of the hat to Intini’s training as a Merimbula and smoked hummus, za’atar, flatbread, butcher. Costa hails from Genoa and the pansotti, but the pork cheek slider and baccala fritters, yogurt walnuts, ricotta and borage reflect her heritage. Other and pickled red onion and mushroom carpaccio, pasta go-tos are tagliolini, veal bolognese and green manchego, paprika were doing a brisk trade. olives, and maltagliati, cannellini beans, smoked bacon and bay leaf. I judge a restaurant with Italian leanings on its gnocchi which can be leaden in the wrong hands. Di The mains are simple yet refined from the black Marino came up trumps with a main course of light angus sirloin, fondant potato and liquorice to ocean trout, spring vinaigrette, spanish onion and lemon Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 39

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS EVER since the glitzy new Rosewood Hotel such as red duck curry custom-made sizzling cast iron pans guests can opened in Tsim Sha Tsui earlier this year, the F&B and grilled sea bass in tuck into grilled Hanwoo beef stripling steak, offerings keep coming. Its newest restaurant is banana leaves. Armed grilled vegetables, and fresh seafood from tiger Asaya Kitchen, headed up by chef Renaud with fresh ingredients prawns to abalone. Carb lovers won’t want to Marin, previously of French Fancies, Cochin and an ample spice miss the Chul Grill sizzling rice selection, from and Upper Modern Bistro. Somewhat oddly, cabinet, the chefs here kimchi to spicy chicken and pork. After dinner, Asaya Kitchen is on the same floor as Asaya pack maximum flavour head over to the dedicated dessert area with Hong Kong, the hotel’s spa, and so is geared into dishes such as gai organic milk bread (things that Hong Kongers up to offer “health-conscious fare”. But don’t ping, tender grilled go crazy over) and cakes made in-house daily, let that put you off: the menu has a fusion of chicken skewers and organic chocolates imported from Korea. Mediterranean and Japanese dishes, with a boasting a slight char Baekmidang, Shop B111 and B225A, K11 focus of raw, pickled, sprouted and fermented with a peanut dipping Musea, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim ingredients for lunch, and heartier mains for sauce; and moo dad Sha Tsui, Hong Kong; phone +852 5205 1327. dinner. The restaurant also sensibly has a zero- deauw, where sun- waste philosophy with a responsible sourcing dried pork strips are Top right: Interior of Rosewood Hotel. policy. Not to mention a biodynamic wine list so rolled in toasted sesame seeds with sriracha. Middle left: Food from Ruam restaurant. that spa goers can at least treat themselves to a Chase down the spicy flavours with an ice-cold Below: Food from Baekmidang restaurant. bit of vinous joy after gruelling sessions. Asaya Singha beer or refreshing tropical cocktails such Kitchen, 6/F Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria as the Oh Yeah!, perfumed with heavy notes Dockside, 18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; phone of ginger. The convivial venue +852 3891 8732. boasts a greenery-filled terrace and alfresco bar area, with an A bustling new Thai bar and eatery, Ruam, has open kitchen allowing for a peek popped up on Wan Chai’s food-filled Ship St for at the action. Ruam, Shop 9, those lucky enough to work near there. Those 1/F, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd, seeking familiar Thai flavours will find comfort Wan Chai (entrance on Ship in the menu that embraces classic dishes St), Hong Kong; phone +852 3160 8535. Ta s t y K o re a n b a r b e c u e restaurant, Baekmidang, has opened its flagship store at the almost equally new and fancy K11 Musea mall in Tsim Sha Tsui. The massive (for Hong Kong, at least), 185 squ metre space is anchored by two giant cast iron pots at the long counter, dishing up authentic Korean red bean porridge, flanked by a display of Baekmidang’s artisanal desserts. From the 40 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

Special Awards Feature 2019 Featuring the winners and placegetters for each varietal category tasted throughout the year. Plus profiles of the Australian and New Zealand winemaker and wine company of the year. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 41

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S 2 0 1 9 THE JUDGING Each year our Winestate Wine of the Year Awards brings up new interesting results. This year is no exception. BEST OF THE BEST In this Trans-Tasman competition New Zealand usually wins around four – five of the 16 trophies, but this year surprisingly it was trumped by Australia in five categories in which it has performed well in the past. Normally New Zealand is competitive in the Sparkling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sweet Whites and emphatically in the Pinot/Gris/Grigio class. None of the above this year with Aussie wines taking the mantle across the board. Competition was fierce with most categories having a wine or more representing each country. If you were a gambling person you would pick New Zealand to dominate the Sauvignon Blanc Class and so it was again this year. The jewel in the crown for the competition was an amazing, world class Kiwi Chardonnay from Villa Maria which not only won best Chardonnay but went on to be chosen by the judges to be the overall Winestate Wine of the Year. Our expert judging panel included Stephen John (Chair), Leigh Francis, (chief Scientist, AWRI and Natalie Cleghorn (Senior Winemaker, Yalumba wines). Congratulations to all the Top Five Finalists in the 16 categories and the Trophy winners in each class. Of course also to New Zealand’s Villa Maria for Wine of the Year and Wine Company of the Year along with a multitude of other awards. For Australian Wine of the Year was awarded to Barossa’s Z Wines and Wine Company of the Year to Australian Vintage, notably McGuigan Wines. On a personal note great kudos goes to Peter Hall, Chief winemaker McGuigan Wines for Australian Winemaker of the Year and Nick Picone, Villa Maria’s Chief winemaker (for the second time). All the results follow this introduction and I urge you to go to your local liquor store or restaurant to try the wines or Google the winery direct to find out where you can get them. In these days of disruption and fragmentation they will be pleased to hear from you. Our grateful thanks also go to all the winemakers and industry trade wine judges who helped us get through a mammoth amount of wines throughout the year, the trade who spread the word about our judging results and supported us and of course our many loyal readers. And let’s not forget our valued sponsors who give us the support to bring you these great results each year. These days it is becoming more important to look after those who look after us. Cheers! *All technical details for the Wine of the Year Peter Simic Special Feature are supplied directly from each Editor/Publisher winery. 42 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

CHAIRMAN’S THE CLASSES COMMENTS IN BRIEF JUDGES SPARKLING Peter Simic Stephen John Natalie Cleghorn Leigh Francis A surprisingly small class. The top wine was Yalumba Wine Co outstanding. A great example of a developed Cool Chair: CEO & Editor/ WOYA Chairman; The Australian Wine Climate Sparkling White. Freshness and complexity, Publisher, Winestate The Wine Group Australia Research Institute and clarity of fruit was a feature. One lovely Sparkling Rosé in the top five was a highlight also. ALTERNATIVE RED ROSÉ A very impressive large class, offering over 12 A small class, displaying a vast array of different PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO varieties plus blends. A wonderful class which was approaches of production to this fast growing A small class of commercial wines of varying approached with great enthusiasm by the judges. sector of the market. The wines presented colours styles and sugar levels. The top wines offer Obviously there was individual preferences by the from bronze to light electric pink. Salmon pink very good drinkability. “Let the fruit speak for judges, but the old favourite of “GSM” stood tall, appears to be the middle ground. It is obvious itself,” commented one judge as a way forward although it was a closely fought battle. that these wines are now purpose built to a style. for this variety. Freshness, balanced sweetness and drinkability PINOT NOIR featured in the top wines. Plus, the best value wine RIESLING An exciting class to judge. The increase in was also a rosé this year. Once again a great class to judge. Several stunning quality across all wines presented is to be wines featuring purity of varietal fruit, linear acid acknowledged. It is now becoming more difficult SWEET WHITES and balance. Top wine was a unanimous choice to define the individual regional styles, as Usually this class is dominated by luscious botrytis by the judges. Top five wines are benchmark winemaking of this variety has gone to a new wines but this year two late harvest rieslings made examples of Australian riesling at their best. level. The fruit is being treated with respect. The the cut, which was surprising but welcomed. It fact that we had nine wines competing for top should be pointed out the wines excelled with SAUVIGNON BLANC place says a lot for the public. pure balanced fruit and sugar, showing how it A very strong class of evenly matched wines, in could be done. both quality and style. The class was once again MERLOT dominated by the “Kiwi” style. Intensity of varietal Generally regarded as a blending wine in Australia, FORTIFIED fruit with freshness and balance on the palate was it has great pedigree in France as a \"right bank\" Always a world class judging where the leading a feature of these ever popular wines. Bordeaux varietal. Here we select the top four producers dominate with either apera, muscats examples from this years judging. or tokays. This year it was pleasing to see two SEMILLON excellent examples of a liqueur shiraz and a pale A very strong class. Top wine and runner up CABERNET SAUVIGNON dry apera make the top five list. were unanimous choices. A privilege to judge A truly brilliant class, with many wines capable of these icons of Australian white wine, with years of holding their own on the world stage. Eleven wines BEST VALUE BUY cellaring ahead. Many young wines showing lots were competing for top place, of which eight were This is a great category for everyday drinking. of promise of things to come. from the outstanding 2016 Vintage. Freshness, Here we looked at the best value wines under expression of varietal fruit, weight, balance and $20 ($25NZ) across those judged during the year CHARDONNAY complexity were a feature. (under the same judging conditions as all other An incredible line up of complex, elegant, classy wines we judged blind). The winning wine came varietal chardonnays. The top wine is simply SHIRAZ in at $5.99. Incredible value for a four star wine! outstanding, with texture and balance a feature. One hundred and sixty five wines on offer in this re- A \"complete\" wine. The class created a lot of judging! Many outstanding wines with only degrees Winestate Magazine would like to take this discussion with the judges, as there were so many of excellence separating them. 2018 and 2016 are opportunity to thank our major sponsors for their excellent wines of differing styles and individual shaping up to be fantastic vintages. A couple of ongoing support. attributes. The main feature of the class was the 2017 wines are showing very well, but the rigours strength of the source fruit with the masterful use of the tough 2017 vintage are evident in many. • Orora Glass • Interpack of oak creating beautiful textural wines. The public are in a very privileged situation with • National Wine Centre • Vintec ALTERNATIVE WHITE access to these fantastic, truly Australian top class A very diverse, but, interesting class of wines, wines. Brilliant colour, fruit intensity enhanced by • Travelrite • Hamburg Süd representing 12 different varietals. Quality was clever oak use and a complete balanced flavour not an issue, but we had divergent opinions from package were the features of the top wines. • The Rees Hotel, • WineWorks each judge as to which wines should be featured in the top five. After a lot of discussion, we agreed Queenstown • Le Cordon Bleu to a result, but, all of the wines in the class have merit, and is great to see the additional varieties • Stamford Grand Hotel • DW Fox Tucker now on offer. • Luigi Bormioli • Harvey Norman • Classic Oak • James Busby • Studio Labels by Coles Liquor • SMEG Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 43

NEW ZEALAND wine company of the year VILLA MARIA MAKING THE MOST OF CURIOSITY “A shortage of land suitable for planting vineyards is looming in Marlborough, so that will encourage a greater focus on quality, rather than quantity, production.” MICHAEL COOPER About 40 per cent of Marlborough sauvignon blanc is now shipped in bulk and bottled outside New Zealand. Do you see this as a threat SIR George Fistonich founded New Zealand’s largest, fully family-owned to the industry’s reputation? winery in 1961. I sat down recently to interview the owner of Winestate’s I’m really against it. We are a young country with a great reputation for wine. New Zealand Wine Company of the Year award for 2019. The insights and If we could cut back the volume shipped in bulk, that would be great. A anecdotes flowed - together with a wee bit of chardonnay - and somehow shortage of land suitable for planting vineyards is looming in Marlborough, so a half-hour chat ran to two hours. that will encourage a greater focus on quality, rather than quantity, production. What attracted you to winemaking? The alcohol levels declared on New Zealand’s wine labels have a Dad wanted me to be a carpenter, but I decided very early that I’d rather legally permitted variance of plus or minus 1.5 per cent alc/vol (as be a winemaker. I’ve always had a lot of curiosity and realised that wine is in Australia). That means a wine labelled as 12.5 per cent alcohol both an art and a science. If you look at why people fail or succeed, a lot of by volume can in fact be anywhere from 11 per cent to 14 per cent people lack curiosity. Looking at the world of wine, I’ve always been curious alcohol. Don’t wine consumers deserve greater respect, in terms of about the big picture. their entitlement to accurate information? You obviously have the ability to attract highly talented people and I agree. The legal tolerance should be +/- 0.5 per cent. keep them. How do you achieve this? Wine consumption is falling within New Zealand. Why do you think I believe in teamwork. I hate paperwork and don’t like a huge amount of detail, this is happening? but I do need to know what’s going on. In the early days, we’d sit down at It’s part of a global trend. There’s a big focus on healthy living. At one stage, 5pm and I’d say: “What’s the plan for tomorrow?” That was second nature. when I went for morning walks, nobody else was out and about, but now And people develop different strengths. For instance, some winemakers are walkers and joggers are everywhere. And there’s the drink-drive influence, 100 per cent winemakers, while others are happy to travel and promote a too. At our summer winery concerts, years ago the car parks were always lot. My job is to understand their strengths and weaknesses. And so many jam-packed, but now lots of people use Uber. graduates in winemaking are simply looking for something to do. I look for If you could only drink the wines of one white-wine variety and one those with passion. red-wine variety, what would they be? Your daughter, Karen, who chairs the board at Villa Maria, has The white would have to be chardonnay. I like the complexity and the range described you as a “classic founder entrepreneur who finds it hard of styles - it’s the perfect winemaker’s wine. Regards the red, I enjoy pinot to let go of what they have built.” Do you agree? noir in summer - even with seafood - but my favourite is cabernet sauvignon, I totally disagree. For instance, I spent over a year out of the country around including cabernet sauvignon/merlot blends. 2011 (when Villa Maria celebrated its 50th anniversary), which involved a lot of delegating. And age has nothing to do with your ability. My ability to run FINALISTS Pernod Ricard a big company is much greater now that it was even five or 10 years ago. Brennan Wines You look in great physical shape at 80. How do you achieve that? Saint Clair I like to walk in the mornings, and I do an hour of pilates, twice per week, Trinity Hill with a personal trainer. How much wine do you drink in an average day? I enjoy about half a glass of white wine before dinner, and follow up with a glass of red leading into the meal. 44 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

THE JAMES BUSBY TROPHY BY COLES LIQUOR NEW ZEALAND winemaker of the year NICK PICONE, VILLA MARIA TWICE IS NICE “When I’m judging, I really focus on the bouquet. I’m looking for freshness, concentration and push back anything that is out of balance. I look for the wine’s overall interest level, its finer qualities, its texture.” MICHAEL COOPER Villa Maria has recently made some big savings in its expenditure on oak. Is that reflected in the top wines? VILLA Maria’s group chief winemaker scooped this prestigious award last year, but anyone who has followed Nick Picone’s career closely won’t be totally Not at all. During the trend away from chardonnay 10 or 20 years ago, we surprised. During the past six years, this “extremely talented” winemaker with all heard a lot of talk about “using less oak” or “picking earlier”. But quality an “exceptional palate” (to quote his boss, Sir George Fistonich), has scooped advances are not about using less oak; they reflect using better oak. That six Winemaker of the Show and New Zealand Winemaker of the Year awards. means using less American and Hungarian oak, and more fine French oak. And Villa Maria’s best chardonnays all have some new oak influence. New Starting as a teenager at Esk Valley Estate, owned by Villa Maria, in 1997, oak really “pops” the wine (elevates it). “scrubbing the tanks and cleaning the floors”, Picone has now spent over 20 Does it take a certain style of chardonnay to win top accolades in years in the Villa Maria orbit. An early career highlight came in 2004, when large blind tastings? Is a bold, weighty, flavour-packed chardonnay he was the New Zealand recipient of the Len Evans tutorial scholarship, and more likely to attract top awards than a refined, ageworthy wine with in 2012 he was named the Australasian Young Winemaker of the Year by the delicacy and finesse? Wine Society. A Bachelor of Wine Science, currently resident in Hawke’s Bay, Picone has also worked several harvests in Italy and the US. When I’m judging, I really focus on the bouquet. I’m looking for freshness, Congratulations on winning Winestate’s supreme Wine of the Year concentration and push back anything that is out of balance. I look for the award with Villa Maria Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2018. wine’s overall interest level, its finer qualities, its texture. That’s good going for a wine with a retail price of $NZ40, especially Sir George Fistonich has described you as an “extremely talented” considering that some New Zealand chardonnays are now being sold winemaker with “an exceptional palate”. How would you describe at $NZ150 and over. How close do you think the link is, generally, him, as a boss? between wine quality and wine pricing? Infectiously passionate. He’s obsessed with wine and the business of I think wine pricing in New Zealand is similar to what you often see overseas Villa Maria - it’s a total focus, even on a Sunday night. That enthusiasm - high prices can be based on scarcity, as much as quality. If you are a small rubs off on all of us. producer with limited volumes, you can price your wines above average. Mind you, there are fewer than 2000 cases (six bottles per case) of Villa Maria FINALISTS Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2018. How well will the Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2018 mature? A. B. C. I enjoyed a bottle a few days ago and it’s already quite open and expressive. I jotted down “best drinking 2022+”. What do you think? A. Hamish Clark – Saint Clair. B. Chris Scott – Church Road. I think it will start hitting its peak at three to five years old, but then it will hold C. Warren Gibson – Trinity Hill. well for at least eight years. D. Sean Brennan – Brennan Wines. If you could only drink the wines of one white-wine variety and one red-wine variety, what would they be? D. Definitely chardonnay for the white wine and I’m a lover of cabernet-based reds. When cabernet sauvignon is fully ripe, it has all the attributes of great red wine - perfume, richness, texture, age-worthiness, compatibility with food. To get excited, you need a really good bottle of pinot noir, and it’s so expensive. Take an $80 red from Bordeaux - it will typically offer better quality and value than an $80 pinot noir from Burgundy. Villa Maria makes chardonnays from four regions - Auckland, Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough. How would you describe their regional differences? We can talk about the influence of regionality, but vineyard sites come through, too. Chardonnay performs exceptionally well around the country. The vineyard and how the vines are managed, together with the influence of the winemaker, can almost blur regionality. I’m looking for the signature of the producer - the style of the wine, its level of complexity. Things like picking decisions, type of yeasts, type of barrels, can make it very hard to pick the region of origin. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 45

AUSTRALIAN wine company of the year AUSTRALIAN VINTAGE A LONG JOURNEY IN A SHORT TIME “I attribute the strides we have made to making terrific wines which stand-out on the global stage and therefore attract international acclaim, but you also have to engage the consumer.” NIGEL HOPKINS FOR a company that began only in 1992 and is now the main player in the “We have always had a strong innovation pipeline and, having McGuigan Black expanded Australian Vintage company, this year's Winestate Australian Label as such a solid foundation, enabled us to explore the next frontiers in wine Wine Company of the Year, McGuigan Wines has come a long, long way trends and craft products accordingly. As a result, we’ve been able to introduce in just 27 years. new ranges into the portfolio, including the Shortlist, Hand Made and our super- premium wine, The Philosophy, which sells for $150 a bottle.” This is the second time it has been awarded Winestate’s Wine Company of the Year - the first was in 2003 - and it surely reflects the fact that it stands on a four- That’s a wine that explains much about why McGuigan Wines has won such generation Hunter Valley winemaking heritage that goes back to 1880, when Owen success in such a brief period. McGuigan started working in vineyards to supplement his dairy farm income. “When I first re-joined the business, I put a challenge out to the McGuigan His son Perc McGuigan worked his way up from tending vines to managing winemaking team: to create a true, icon wine for our brand. I remember the a major Hunter Valley winery, becoming a larger-than-life Hunter Valley figure reaction well - it took people a while to get their head around what I wanted in the process, inducted as a Hunter Valley Living Legend. to do,” McGuigan says. But it would be his sons, Brian and his younger brother Neil, who would “But my philosophy on making wine is simple. Every day you need to have the create the world-leading winery that we know today. Within 10 years it was ambition to craft a super-premium wine; it channels the energy and focus to be on Australia’s fourth largest winemaker in partnership with Simeon Wines, with a quality at every step of the process. Put this in place and pretty soon that attitude second home in the Barossa Valley. flows across your entire portfolio - and your $10 wine starts tasting like a $12 wine. Under the umbrella ownership of Australian Vintage, the company now “It filters through everything you do, and every wine that you make no matter includes not only McGuigan Wines but the successful brands of Nepenthe, whether it is at the more accessible level, or a super-premium limited release.” Tempus Two, Miranda and the fun brand Passion Pop who all contributed to the award win for Australian Vintage as Winestate Wine Company of the Year. McGuigan Wines is also making it clear it has no intention of resting on its As one of Australia’s largest vineyard owners, operators, managers and third- laurels, having added emerging varietals like Australian montepulciano and, in party contractors, it has more than 2700ha under vine in regions, including November 2019, malbec. At the same time it also launched its first alcohol-free the Hunter Valley, the Sunraysia and Riverland regions, as well as the Barossa wine - McGuigan Zero, in response to a growing global trend. Valley, Adelaide Hills, Coonawarra, Eden and Clare valleys, McLaren Vale and Padthaway in South Australia. “Our company philosophy is embedded in two one liners: ‘Make the wine the hero’ and ‘over deliver on quality at every price point’,” McGuigan says. The international acclaim McGuigan Wines has won along the way has been exceptional. In 2017 alone McGuigan Wines received a total of 595 trophies “We put quality at the core of everything we do. This has driven our ambitions and medals, including 22 trophies, and 159 gold and 184 silver medals. So Neil and this focus has become intrinsic to every part of the business, from McGuigan is certainly not exaggerating when he says: “In a very short space of winemaking to production to marketing. It’s this passion that has led to the time, McGuigan Wines has evolved into a globally recognised brand and our parent critical acclaim our wines have won across the world. company, Australian Vintage, has seen phenomenal success.” “I think one of the big turning points for the company was when we won the McGuigan, who has been both McGuigan Wines chief winemaker and for the IWSC International Winemaker of the Year award for the third time, which was past nine years CEO of Australian Vintage, now describes his role as technical a global first. And then we were lucky enough to win it again in 2016. It was an advisor for McGuigan Wines. unprecedented endorsement and earned us a seat at the table of the world’s leading retailers, and it demonstrated we were committed to quality. We now “It’s been an amazing journey,” he says. “I attribute the strides we have made have an outstanding global distribution footprint. to making terrific wines which stand-out on the global stage and therefore attract international acclaim, but you also have to engage the consumer. “These awards are unprecedented and I’m incredibly proud of our performance globally, representing Australia on the world stage and taking this country’s wines “It’s crucial to stay relevant and deliver wines that will excite consumers as to millions of consumers is hugely satisfying. well as predicting how their tastes are likely to evolve, and be ahead of the curve with innovative styles. With those two elements in the kit bag, you need “But I also recall when we won Winestate magazine’s Winery of the Year in 2003 to share your passion, jumping on planes and engaging with the trade as well and the enormous impact it had on our business. Winning it again 16 years later is as consumers globally.” just as humbling. Receiving such a prestigious accolade on home turf is especially gratifying and a great honour.” McGuigan says that positioning your brand with the right marketing campaigns is another vital piece of the puzzle. FINALISTS “My brother Brian recognised the opportunity and need for a wine that created Wines by Geoff Hardy Morris Wines a bridge for consumers drinking big, rich, white wines who wanted to move into reds. At the time, the only reds available were clarets - full of tannins and acid. Bird in Hand Haselgrove This vision was the beginning of the McGuigan story and really set the business on the path to success. 46 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020

THE JAMES BUSBY TROPHY BY COLES LIQUOR AUSTRALIAN winemaker of the year PETER HALL, McGUIGAN WINES OUT OF THE SHADOW “When I consider how some of our wines would stand up against the top French producers now, I think they would be nervous in blind tastings - they might not even show up.” NIGEL HOPKINS FOR Peter Hall, McGuigan Wines Hunter Valley chief winemaker, it can’t have been of the premium regions of Australia - Tumbarumba, Hilltops, Barossa Valley, easy working in the shadow of his boss and former chief winemaker, Neil McGuigan. Bordertown, Coonawarra, Gundagai, Adelaide Hills and Langhorne Creek. I am also looking at fruit from other areas, but the prime driver is accessing After all, Neil has been recognised as the “world’s best winemaker” by London’s fruit to make the best possible wine. International Wine & Spirits Competition (IWSC) a record four times, the last in 2016. “For example, the 2017 McGuigan Tumbarumba Chardonnay I made as a cellar This year, Hall has managed to make his own exceptional stamp on the McGuigan door exclusive, received a trophy at the IWC and was paramount to winning Wines portfolio, making him Winestate’s Winemaker of the Year for 2019. International White Winemaker of the year for a fourth time at the IWC. We have also taken over 20 trophies and 50 gold medals this year (2019) alone - I remember “Working with Neil McGuigan has been a highlight of my career,” Hall says. “He back to when if you got one in a year you were stoked.” has an exceptional palate and the enthusiasm and energy he has is at the top of the league. Neil is very driven and makes sure no one becomes complacent. Six years earlier, Hall’s 2005 McGuigan Bin 9000 Semillon had won the international semillon trophy at the 2013 International Wine Challenge for the “His brief to me has been to make the best wines possible with no restrictions third consecutive year, with Hall subsequently being crowned Hunter Valley on styles and this has certainly increased my knowledge. The level of autonomy Winemaker of the Year. I have as a winemaker means I can explore and experiment which is exciting.” Hall says he is open minded when it comes to wine styles and making wine, but A New Zealander, Hall began his career 40 years ago working in Hawke’s Bay he’s not a fan of big alcoholic wines, which are at odds with the Australian climate. as an assistant winemaker at Vidal. In 1981 he moved to Australia and took up a winemaking position at Rothbury Estate Wines, working directly with Len Evans. “The climatic conditions here obviously dictate style, however I find vintage variation is an intrinsic part of winemaking and look at it as a positive,” he says. “I “Len was one of the most passionate wine people I’ve ever met,” he says. have experienced only one textbook vintage in the last 40 years which means you “Working with one of the legends of the industry during my formative years must expect, and thrive on, the unexpected and learn to embrace it. set me on the quest to make wines equal to the best in the world. I was exposed to the most amazing wines as our warehouse was full of pallets of “Making wines that are sold all over the world is incredibly thrilling and knowing first growths and top burgundies Len sourced to sell through our wine club. you are developing Australia’s reputation globally is a great buzz. Staff could buy a first growth Bordeaux for $30 bottle. “When I consider how some of our wines would stand up against the top “As winemakers, we were also able to commandeer the odd bottle to try in French producers now, I think they would be nervous in blind tastings - they the winemaking lab and would put 40 - 50 wines on the bench to compare. We might not even show up. had Margaux, Rothschild and Lafite - wines that in today’s terms wouldn’t sell for less than $2000 a bottle. It was an amazing journey and an extraordinary way to “Some of the wines I’ve made from the Hunter are among my very best. It’s understand what the greats were doing across the world.” a source of great pride to be able to make wine at that level and to have won so many awards in recognition. For a few years in the 1980s, once vintage was finished in Australia, Hall would go to the Napa Valley to work at Mondavi’s - another great experience. I have three daughters and my eldest, Patrisse, manages McGuigan’s wine club, so she has clearly inherited the bug. I can certainly understand why.” “As a winemaker, when you are exposed to what’s at the top of the tree, it sets the bar in terms of your own aspirations. You want to be the best and FINALISTS that’s what drives you,” Hall says. A. B. C. When Rothbury Estates was sold in 1996, Brian McGuigan, founder of McGuigan Wines, called and asked Hall to join his team. A. Kym Milne - Bird in Hand. B. Shane Harris – Wines by Geoff Hardy. “Brian was a different beast to Len, though both were great friends of mine. C. Alex Sherrah – Haselgrove. Brian’s passion was growing grapes, he was vineyard mad, whereas Len was more D. David Morris – Morris Wines. focused on the winemaking element. As a result, I was lucky enough to learn the whole spectrum of the process - the soil, climate, vines, right through to blending D. and all the skills in the winery - from two of the best people in the industry. “Brian was incredibly ambitious and when McGuigan Wines was growing at 100 per cent per annum it was incredible. When a company is growing that fast, you’re just holding on for the ride and it’s a fantastic feeling.” Hall says that one of the big moments for McGuigan was when the company won Winestate magazine’s Winery of the Year in 2003. “The importance to the business was huge. We have also achieved an unrivalled record at the world’s most prestigious wine shows, including the IWC and IWSC, which has a huge impact on the company and our philosophy,” he says. “While I take a significant amount of Hunter fruit, I process fruit from most Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 47

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SPARKLING of the year WINNER THE ORORA GLASS TROPHY Brown Brothers Patricia King Valley Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut 2012 WINEMAKER: Cate Looney COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: The Patricia Pinot Noir & Chardonnay Brut shows a clean bright colour with a fine persistent bead. The nose is lifted with green apple, lemon zest and the early morning aromas of freshly baked goods. The palate is full bodied and complex with prominent lemon and lime flavours and a bready nuance that lingers. It is creamy and elegant with a crisp, dry finish and refreshing acidity. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: Freshly shucked oysters and a squeeze of lemon juice. CELLARING: Next 3-4 years. VITICULTURE: Grown on the high altitude Whitlands plateau. The vineyard is located at 800m above sea level at the top end of the King Valley. VINIFICATION & MATURATION: The fruit was hand picked in March and whole bunch pressed. The grapes are handled to yield 500 litres of juice per tonne to minimise the impact of the colour and harsher compounds from the grape skins. The secondary fermentation was deliberately extended to produce a fine bead, then given 6 years on lees to provide further complexity. The wine was then disgorged and liqueured, with an alcohol of 12.0%, a pH of 3.14 and an acid level of 7.9 g/L. This wine was made in strict adherence to the 'Traditional Method'. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: 03 5720 5500 Email: [email protected] Web: www.brownbrothers.com.au LUIGI BORMIOLI GLASS - IL Merav Sparkling 400ml Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020 W I N E S TAT E 49

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS CHATEAU YALDARA CENTENNIAL VINEYARDS LIMITED ADELAIDE HILLS SPARKLING BOWRAL BLANC DE BLANCS NV CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR 2015 WINEMAKER: WINEMAKER: Chris Coulter Tony Cosgriff COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Pale yellow with copper hues, delicate beads that Pale straw with green hints. Complex aromas of enhance the citrus and white peach notes. This is grapefruit/citrus, sea spray, candle wax, honey, highlighted with strawberry blossom and lemon with nutty almond biscuit. The stylish palate is zest. On the palate enjoy limes and nectarines, complex, with good richness of flavour and a touch whilst the ageing on yeast lees has created of creaminess, some subtle vanilla, and lovely complex dough and biscuit richness on the palate, palate cleansing grapefruit acidity, finishing long beautifully balanced with a clean acid line that and dry. The freshness, complexity and finesse refreshes the senses. are beautifully balanced reflecting the 48 months CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: on lees. Phone: 08 8524 0200 CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Email: [email protected] Phone: 02 4861 8722 Web: www.chateauyaldara.com.au Email: [email protected] Web: www.centennial.net.au 50 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2020