Winestate Magazine November December 2012

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012 WINESTATE VOL 35 ISSUE 6 CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING PINOT NOIR CANTERBURY & CENTRAL OTAGO NORTH EAST VICTORIA LIMESTONE COAST PRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE EXPLOSION OF BUBBLES satisfying a raging thirst for sparkling Champagne & Sparkling LIKE FATHER, LIKE SON 274 TASTED New Releases JACK AND DORHAM MANN INTERVIEWED 305 TASTED CATT ON THE PROWL THE ACQUISITION OF PADTHAWAY ESTATE November/December 2012 Realm of the Vol 35 Issue 6 Mountain Grape $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 a taste of Japanese wine US $14.99 GBP £8.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 CHF 15.00 BGN 25.00 plus North East Victoria Hunter Valley Limestone Coast Canterbury, Waipara & Central Otago (NZ) Top 40 Best Wine Buys Under $20





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World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge 20122010 Wolf Blass Grey Label 2009 Wolf Blass Platinum Label McLaren Vale shiraz Barossa Valley shirazLuxury reLease 2012

NO.251 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: editor@winestate.com.auManaging Editor Lara Simic E-mail: lara@winestate.com.auNZ Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: mcooper@ihug.co.nzSub-editor Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: administration@winestate.com.auArt Director Renate Klockner E-mail: production@winestate.com.auMarketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: sales@winestate.com.auTasting Coordinator Stephen Dean E-mail: tasting@winestate.com.auPrinting DAI RubiconWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: webmaster@winestate.com.auCONTRIBUTORSNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALES We’ve spentAustralia, New Zealand & International so many hoursPeter Jackson, Winestate Publications researchingPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: sales@winestate.com.au your industry,Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - oreillym@ozemail.com.au it’s given usSouth Australia & Victoria a headache.Winestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: advertising@winestate.com.au At Donaldson Walsh Lawyers, weNew South Wales invest time and energy to understandAngelica Naranjo - Pearman Media our clients’ commercial, industry andPhone: (02) 02 9929 3966 E-mail: ANaranjo@pearmanmedia.com.au market sector issues.QueenslandJaye Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: jayeb@themediaworkshop.com.au As advisers to some of the mostWestern Australia prominent wineries in the country –Kym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766 along with leading suppliers to theWINESTATE New Zealand Administration Australian wine industry – ourKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: winestate@hotmail.com lawyers are known for their insightItaly & Eastern Europe and expertise.Fabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: info@mediapointsrl.it And our commitment to the wine sector extends beyond our clients toDISTRIBUTORS involvement with industry boards,Australia committees, peak bodies and tradeGordon and Gotch Australia P/L associations.New ZealandGordon and Gotch New Zealand For further information, please callInternational +61 8 8410 2555.DAI RubiconHong Kong & China www.donaldsonwalsh.com.auEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2012 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail editor@winestate.com.au Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsNOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012F E AT U R E S 44 Mann to Mann - an honour flows30 Canterbury and Otago, small in size from father to son but not in performance In what could be destiny, writes Characterised by their substantial Mike Zekulich, Dorham Mann has numbers of tiny producers, New become the latest recipient of a Zealand’s southern wine regions of medal inaugurated to honour his Canterbury and Otago are making late father, Jack Mann. And to make strong statements with varietals the occasion even more historic, we including pinot noir and riesling. reprint a Winestate interview with Michael Cooper looks at the regions’ Jack from 1978.history and potential. 50 Untapped potential of the32 The Hunter reinvents itself as a 54 Wolf Blass Foundation “This country has been very goodmajor chardonnay producer to me … and I’ve been good for the country,” says Wolf Blass but, asIt took the proverbial kick up R E G U L A R S Nigel Hopkins writes, this flamboyant character is impatient to see thethe backside from Len Evans’s $4 million foundation he createdconsiderable boot to jolt Hunter Valley 12 Briefs become a force for change in the industry he loves.producers out of its chardonnay 21 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooperlassitude. Rick Allen tells how the 22 European Report with Sally Eastonregion has got its act together to craft Wine Tutor with Clive Hartleya lighter, fresher style that’s bringing 24spectacular rewards. 26 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King 54 Spoilt for choice to satisfy a raging36 Loads of fizz in Padthaway’s 28 Wine History with Valmai Hankel thirst for bubbles Grapevine As Australians’ love affair withflat landscape 58 Wine Words champagne intensifies, Tyson Stelzer Bookworms delves into the marketplace to explainSingularly focused on sparkling wines, 64 What’s it Worth? why the number of French labels isPadthaway Estate has an unusual role Wine Investment & Collecting proliferating and why buyers needin an industry characterised by multiple 66 Subscription form to show caution. He also weighs into the latitude versus altitude debate onwine portfolios. Joy Walterfang takes a 67 Australian bubbles.trip to South Australia’s South East to 68check out the novel approach taken by 147winemaker Nigel Catt. 162 Aftertaste W I N E TAST I N G S40 Apres-ski detour leads to a taste of 74 Pinot Noir Japanese wineSake, maybe, but Japanese 135 New Releases and Top 40 90 Champagne & Sparklingbeverages generally remain a 100 Limestone Coastmystery to the thousands of Aussie 108 Hunter Valleyskiers who hit the slopes of Hokkaidoin Japan. However, as Denis Gastin Best Buys under $20. 116 North East Victoriadiscovers, there’s a vibrant wineindustry within easy reach of the 124 Canterbury, Waiparasnowy slopes. & Central Otago, NZ 130 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases Winestate Magazine Issue Number 251 November/December 2012 Cover photograph @ Jill Chen.

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editorialWELCOME TO PINOT HEAVEN! OK, that may be somewhat of an exaggeration given thatthe search for the Holy Grail of winemaking continues withthis variety unabated. We are nevertheless very pleased tooffer a tasting of over 300 pinots from around Australia andNew Zealand, arguably the biggest judging of this variety inAustralasia this year. We are pleased to report a higher strikerate in this tasting compared to last year, where too manywines veered towards dry reds rather than maintaining varietalcharacter. If that is not enough for pinotphiles, New ZealandEditor Michael Cooper has his round-up and tasting of CentralOtago wines in the same issue. This region is becoming famousfor the variety in the same way that Marlborough excels withsauvignon blanc. Continuing the cool climate focus, this issue also showcaseschampagne and sparkling wines, ranging from Italian proseccostyles to classic chardonnay and pinot noir blends to the greatAussie sparkling reds (no longer allowed to be called sparklingburgundies, for obvious reasons). An interesting development is the rise of New Zealand sparklingsauvignon blancs; love them or hate them, they are becoming a category of their own. For our Australian regional tastings we feature the Hunter Valley, famous for its semillon andchardonnay, the Limestone Coast in South Australia, famous for cabernet-based wines, and North-East Victoria, famous for world-class fortifieds, where apera has become the new name for sherry andtopaque the new name for tokay. In addition to the preceding wines, look out for some nice verdelhosand shiraz from the Hunter in this issue and elegant table wines from the higher-altitude vineyards ofVictoria’s North-East and spicy shiraz from the cool Limestone Coast. The new release wines are now coming in thick and fast, with over 300 tasted (and about halfrecommended). It is an opportunity for me to say again that you have to earn a recommendation inWinestate. Our judges are tough and that’s the way it should be. For our feature articles in this issue we have Rick Allen reporting on the chardonnay resurgence inthe Hunter, Joy Walterfang following up on big, bad Nigel Catt’s takeover of the Limestone Coast’sPadthaway Estate, a nice story by Mike Zekulich on the father and son legacy of Jack and DorhamMann (along with my interview with Jack way back in 1978). Regular writers Sally Easton MW, CliveHartley, Elisabeth King and Valmai Hankel continue their lively and informative columns for your interest. (And it is great to see a spread that acknowledges the fantastic support that the legendary WolfBlass gives back to the industry through the Wolf Blass Foundation. The interest from a million-dollardonation is used to support worthy industry projects or individuals to further the cause of wine. Feware aware of this generosity and we have great pleasure in bringing this to the fore). As usual, lots to digest and lots to like in this issue. Drink well and enjoy!Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherNovember/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsPENFOLDS MAKES INDUSTRYA STATEMENT SALUTES SEVILLETHE wine, of course, is SEVILLE Estate in the Yarraexcellent but for once the Valley celebrates 40 years incontainer outshines the wine this year. The valley’scontents with the release pioneering winemaker of theof a limited edition, modern era was established$168,000 glass ampoule with the simplest of intentions.containing Penfolds2004 Kalimna Block 42 “It all started in the ’50sCabernet Sauvignon. and ’60s,” rememberedThe wine is encased in founder Dr Peter McMahon at the recent 40th celebratorya hand-blown glass dinner. “It was the habit, if you like, to have dinner parties andampoule suspended within wine became a part of those dinner parties. From that littlea jarrah wooden cabinet things grew,” he says.by a glass plumb-bob.The work is definitely more Soon Dr McMahon was making a little wine. Then he planted aobjet d’art than practical vineyard, in part he says, to “stir” his fellow Lilydale GP, Dr Johnand looks stunning. Only Middleton, who in 1971 had planted a vineyard - Mount Mary - at12 handmade ampoules Chirnside Park outside Lilydale. By the early 1980s Seville Estatewere made and already was well and truly on the national wine map, first for its cabernet11 have been allocated to sauvignon and chardonnay, followed by shiraz. In 1996 withoutbuyers around the world. a family member interested in winemaking, Dr McMahon sold hisFor $168,000, the owner will receive the services of a senior winery to Brokenwood. In 2005 it was sold again to current ownersPenfolds winemaker who will travel (within Australia or abroad) Graham and Margaret Van Der Meulen. By then, a young Dylanto perform an opening ceremony for the owner. The ceremony McMahon, grandson of Dr McMahon, had given up a potentialinvolves opening the ampoule with a sterling silver “scribe- career in electrical engineering and was a winemaker at Sevillesnap” and then preparing the wine ready for serving with a Estate. Much to the pride of his grandfather, Dylan and the Vansterling silver tastevin. It’s a fitting, if not lavish, accolade Der Meulens released a flagship wine - Dr McMahon Shiraz - withfor the wine inside, a rare wine only made in great vintages, the great 2010 vintage.produced from the oldest continuously-producing cabernetsauvignon vines in the world. The Van Der Meulens have embraced the McMahon legacy and have built upon it. At the 40th wine dinner they showed a brace of reserve shiraz from 1983, 2004 and 2010 covering the three different periods of ownership. The 1983, needless to say, shone. wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 32712 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

briefsONGOING PLIGHT PINOT UP TO PARAN invitation to participate in an Australian wine regions survey has IN ITS 13th year, the tasting panel at the annual Stonierhighlighted the ongoing plight of wineries without an address following International Pinot Noir Tasting (SIPNOT) reckons ourthe fallout of the Coonawarra-Penola boundary dispute. Winemaker winemakers have learnt a thing or two about Aussie pinot noirBarry Mulligan, of St Mary’s Wines, says in effect his vineyard and over the years. “SIPNOT has grown with Australian pinot noirwinery on the outskirts of the Penola township do not exist. St Mary’s and Australian pinot noir has grown with SIPNOT,” noted panellost its battle to be included within the official boundary for Coonawarra member, Tapanappa winemaker Brian Croser at the Melbourneand also, following a legal challenge by Coonawarra vignerons, the tasting in August. “In 13 years we’ve seen the transition fromPenola district. While his postal address remains Penola he cannot fairly undistinguished Australian pinot to almost uniformlyuse it as an official placename on his wine labels. Mr Mulligan says the distinguished pinot.”regional survey, conducted by the University of Adelaide, highlightsthe continuing isolation he and others feel in being a winery without “Over 13 years,” added wine writer James Halliday, “we’vea regional address. “With Australian wine industry bodies,” he says seen a convergence of quality between Australia and the rest“now using the convenience of Australian wine regions in promoting of the world that wasn’t there in the beginning.”Australian wine nationally and internationally, St Mary’s Wines and otherisolated vignerons in the Penola Coonawarra region are, in almost However, while it might be harder to tell the Australians fromevery circumstance, not included, not notified or not able to participate. the New Zealanders or even the Burgundians when it comes toBy design or default, we don’t get a guernsey. We don’t exist.” the depth and purity of fruit, one aspect of Aussie winemaking can improve. “If anything, Australian pinot along with CaliforniaPROMOTIONAL BOTTLE can be analytically different because they don’t have the same tannin structure as Burgundy,” suggested Croser. “They needBAROSSA Valley wine makers is the latest group to create a special to learn to get more tannin into their wines.”proprietary wine bottle to promote its region. It follows the successfullaunch in 2011 of the Eden Valley riesling bottle. The new Barossa bottle Ben Edwards, James Halliday, Brian Stonier, Mike Symons, Brian Croser.features the name “Barossa” in bold capital letters down one side,making a striking statement. Among the first to use the bottle is ChateauTanunda with its 2010 Medley blend of grenache, shiraz and mataro. The company, traditionally an export-focused brand, says it hasbeen “encouraged” by current exchange rates to take a closerlook at the local Australian market for sales growth and hopes theinnovative Barossa bottle will promote its regional identity. TheMedley will be joined by the 2011 Matthews Road shiraz to launchChateau Tanunda’s first major foray into Australian retail. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsAMAZING RELEASE OATES HEADS HOMETHERE is always something new and exciting happening atd’Arenberg in McLaren Vale, and winemaker Chester Osborn has CATH Oates is the new chiefreleased 15 site-specific wines showcasing the label’s unique winemaker at Plantagenetindividual vineyards as part of its 100th birthday celebrations. Wines in Mount Barker,The “Amazing Sites” project comprises three single vineyard Western Australia. Oatesgrenache wines as well as 12 single vineyard shiraz - all of which returns to her home state ofare components of d’Arenberg’s flagship red, The Dead Arm Shiraz. WA from New Zealand whereEach “Amazing Sites” wine represents about eight barrels of fruit she was group winemakerpicked from a specific site with the remainder contributing to the at Mud House Wine Group,blend of The Dead Arm. “The Dead Arm has always been a blend owner of brands includingof many fascinating parcels of fruit from vineyard sites around the Waipara Hills and MudVale owned by d’Arenberg and grown by our neighbours to our House. She has also workedspecifications,” Osborn says. “As the vines have matured, and the as a flying winemaker inprofile of our winery has grown, more fruit has become available California at boutiqueat Dead Arm quality so I can now share a small part of the blend winery, La Crema (owned by Kendall Jackson), and in Italy.with everyone via this ‘Amazing Sites’ project.” Each wine will retail “We are delighted to welcome Cath to the Plantagenet team tofor $99 a bottle while a dozen set of the shiraz is available at the lead winemaking into a new era for the winery,” general managercellar door packaged in two wooden boxes along with a copy of Jan Skrapac says. “Cath will be the first female winemaker inthe specially commissioned d’Arenberg “Amazing Sites” map. our 38-year history, building on our founder Tony Smith’s vision of continuous evolution and excellence at Plantagenet. Cath’s local knowledge coupled with her international experience, particularly in the cool-climate regions of New Zealand, is a great fit for our Great Southern wines.” “I’m excited to return home and work with a winery with such a rich history of winemaking as Plantagenet,” Oates says. “The Great Southern has a variety of micro climates and some fantastic old vineyards with cool- climate varieties that I’ve become attached to, plus my old favourites that I’ve missed making. It’s an exciting time in the brand’s evolution and I’m honoured to be part of the team writing the next chapter.”FIRST FOR BROWN BROTHERS NEW BOTTLE DESIGNWHEN Brown Brothers purchased vineyards in LOOK out for Eden ValleyTasmania two years ago it expected the fruit to go rieslings in a new proprietaryinto the labels they also acquired - Tamar Ridge, bottle. A group of 12 producersDevil’s Corner and Coombend among them. But the - Brockenchak, ChateauBrown Brothers winemaking team was so excited Tanunda Estate, Edenmae,by the sauvignon blanc grown in Tasmania in 2012 Flaxman Wines, Hartz Barnthat it snaffled the fruit for the Brown Brothers 2012 Wines, Henschke, PoonawattaSauvignon Blanc – which is the first Brown Brothers Estate, Radford Wines, Riley’swine in 123 years to carry the geographical of Eden Valley, Seppeltsfield,indicator of “Tasmania”. Brown Brothers has always Tim Smith and Thorn-Clarkepreviously used fruit from its many vineyards across Wines are all using the newVictoria. “In the 2012 vintage the winemaking team bottles for their 2012 releases. Fifth-generation Eden Valley winemakersaw that the highest-quality sauvignon blanc was Stephen Henschke was among the first to sign up for the new bottle,grown in our cool-climate Tasmanian vineyards saying: “Eden Valley has a rich winemaking history dating back to 1847and we have produced a standout wine from it,” so it is only fitting we continue to support the message and encouragesays senior winemaker Joel Tilbrook. And this our fellow riesling winemakers to join the cause.” The bottles havewill not be the last Brown Brothers release from a relief design of contoured rows and rolling hills synonymous withTasmania. “Thanks to the foresight of our board in the Eden Valley, which is home to some of the oldest riesling vinesacquiring excellent vineyards in Tasmania we can in the world. The Barossa also now has its own proprietary bottlelook to further extending our portfolio with more cool-climate wines in with International award-winning Barossa winery Chateau Tanundathe future,” says Katherine Brown. launching its 2010 Medley GSM in the new packaging.14 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

briefsFOR SALE TRIO TRIUMPHSMIKE Sharman was a pioneer of grape growing in the Relbia THE release of Lindeman’sdistrict in Tasmania and has been producing wines from his much-vaunted Coonawarra4.6ha vineyard on the 36.37ha Glenbothy property on the banks trio - the St George Cabernetof the North Esk River since 1987. His relatively warm, north- Sauvignon, Limestone Ridgefacing vineyard is planted with pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling, Shiraz Cabernet and Pyrus,sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and malbec, and he a Bordeaux-style blend - hashas enjoyed great success, including his 2011 pinot noir winning traditionally been one of thea trophy at this year’s International Cool Climate Wine Show. His highlights of the wine calendar.wines have most recently been vinified by Jeremy Dineen at The wines are only releasedJosef Chromy and Guy Wagner at Bass Fine Wine. After 25 years, in outstanding years – andhowever, he has reluctantly put his property on the market, where 2010 has produced a superiorit joins another local winery, Moores Hill in the Tamar Valley, which collection of wines. So muchis also looking for a buyer. “I’m 75 now and I want to sell while so that chief winemaker BrettI’ve still got all my marbles,” Sharman says. “The property has Sharpe (pictured) describesimmense potential for wine tourism, so I’m hoping someone will the new releases as “the best trio I’ve seen in my time in Coonawarra”.take it over and make the most of that potential. I originally started Sharpe says none of the trio stands out above the others, as wouldby making my own wine on site and have used several contract usually be the case. “They are all showstoppers,” he says. “Vintageswinemakers since. It has been an immensely enjoyable time for like 2010 don’t come along too often. It was just fantastic for us. Itus, but my family have their own jobs and are not interested, and was a wetter vintage but with warm ripening conditions. We got ripeit is a business that needs consistent work.” The Sharmans have fruit with richness but also with drive and energy.”There were nodrawn up plans for vineyard cottages which they believe would trio wines in 2007 – and there will be none from the 2011 vintage.be popular rentals given their proximity to Launceston, and will “If the wines don’t meet our quality standards they will not see thebe sorry to leave a farm they planted with native trees that are light of day,” says Sharpe. “But fortunately we have been blessedhome to a wide variety of birdlife. and I think the 2010 St George might be the best ever.”TOUR WITH THE TIGER YEALANDS EYES AUSTRALIAMAYBE you’ve won the lottery or got a great redundancy LOOK out for a major push from the Yealands Estate, Yealands Way,payout. If so, you may be interested in splashing out on a Crossroads and The Crossings brands into Australian markets overtour of a lifetime, including Queenstown’s Matakauri Lodge the next few months. Hugely successful wine entrepreneur Peterand two of New Zealand’s other top luxury lodges. The trio Yealands revealed in an interview with wine writer Winsor Dobbin thatof lodges - The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs, The Farm at Cape he plans to make his brands household names in Australia, just asKidnappers and Matakauri Lodge have unveiled the Tiger they are in New Zealand. Self-made Yealands is one of the greatestTour 2013, which is based on owner and founder Julian success stories of the New Zealand wine industry. In just four yearsRobertson Jr’s vision of how guests can experience his of winemaking he has already entered the list of the country’s top fivefavourite destination, New Zealand. The March Tiger Tour will producers. Yealands, a former big gun in the aquaculture and forestrycommence on March 11 at Cape Kidnappers. The tour offers industries, was recently named New Zealand Exporter of the Yeara combined nine nights across the three lodges in Hawke’s in the over $5 million category. He established the Yealands EstateBay, Queenstown and the Bay of Islands. It will be limited to vineyard, winery and cellar door in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley withfour couples and all guests will be transported between the the aim of becoming a world leader in sustainable production andproperties in a private jet or helicopter. The April Tiger Tour making “world-class wines that do not cost the earth”. Today he haswill commence at Matakauri Lodge on April 15 and will include New Zealand’s largest privately-owned vineyard, one of the world’sthe same activities and experiences as the March tour – but most ecologically advanced wineries and exports to over 35 countries.guests will be transported between the properties using AirNew Zealand. The tours are inclusive of green fees at leadinggolf courses, the choice of quintessential Kiwi experiencessuch as quad biking, horse riding, jet boating, sailing and abehind the scenes winery tour, nine nights’ accommodation,all meals, a dedicated guide, all ground transportation andtransfers between the lodges. Budget around $25,000 plustaxes for the first tour and $13,900 plus taxes for the second.For more information and to request a detailed itineraryfor both tours contact the Lodge Reservations Team onreservations@capekidnappers.com. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsPERFECTLY POSITIONED HUNTER BOUNDSYDNEY’S Diamant Hotel is perfectly positioned in the heart SCOTT Comyns is the newof Sydney’s nightlife district for anyone wanting to explore the chief winemaker at Briar Ridgemany wine bars of Darlinghurst and surrounds. Chic, minimalist Vineyard in the Hunter Valley.(and affordable; rooms start from $175) the Diamant also has a A wine science graduatespecial gift for anyone booking through the Mr and Mrs Smith from Charles Sturt University,reservations group – a bonus free bottle of wine with each stay. Comyns completed his firstDiamant Hotel, 14 Kings Cross Rd, Potts Point, Sydney; phone Hunter vintage at McGuigan1300 896 627. www.mrandmrssmith.com/au/luxury-hotels/ Wines in 2002 and has sincediamant-hotel-sydney. worked at First Creek and Tempus Two, as well as at Panorama in Tasmania. He has also worked a vintage at Chateau Guiot in Costieres de Nimes, in the southern Rhone. “I’m looking forward to the opportunity of being part of an established brand and excited to be working alongside a dynamic team with a real focus on producing premium Hunter Valley wines,” he says. Also in the Hunter, former Tyrrell’s assistant winemaker Peter Lane will be responsible for making the wine for Capercaillie and Wynwood Estate. Both companies are under the Winston Wine umbrella. Lane has spent the last nine years at Tyrrell’s and has also been at Lindeman’s and McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant.National Wine Sponsor for the Australian String QuartetJames Halliday 5 Star Winery9 Wines over 90 points 2012 T 08 8299 7506Cellar Door 87 King William Road Unley E sales@tomich.com.au To win tickets to the ASQ like us on FacebookNational Distributors:Adelaide Festival City Wines 0402149007 | Melbourne Westwood Wines 0487946333 | Sydney Under the Covers 0403331227 |Brisbane Liquid 1300 668 73616 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

briefsTHIS GOES WITH THAT What gives CocoMe an edge over other boutique chocolate manufacturers is that its consumers can experiment with their ownJOY WALTERFANG flavour combination and only need to purchase two blocks in orderI am writing this on the eve of the London Olympics where the air to be creative. At the moment CocoMe is only available from itsis filled with the talk of gold. But I went one better – never mind website, at select retailers around Adelaide and at the Australianwearing it around your neck - I ate the stuff served with sparkling Wine Centre where you can experience a daily CocoMe chocolatewine! Actually the gold was 23 carat gold flakes and it was part of and wine tasting at the Concourse Cafe.a topping, along with freeze dried strawberries, served on a whitechocolate. But it was gold never-the-less. I think my favourite combination was the milk chocolate with Murray River pink salt and caramel, but the dark chocolate with raspberry, This and other indulgences took place at the National Wine pistachio and pink peppers was pretty special, then again…oh well,Centre, where Adelaide-based Hungarian couple Andrea and no good talking about it – you will just have to try them for yourself!Laszlo Simko unveiled their new handmade chocolate business,CocoMe, serving eight mouth-watering examples perfectly pairedwith South Australian wines. CocoMe makes beautifully packaged handmade chocolate barsusing white, milk and dark chocolate imported from Callebaut, theworld’s leading manufacture of premium chocolate. The bars are thengenerously topped with up to five different flavour combinations froman interesting range of products such as nuts, freeze dried fruits, nativebush foods, edible flowers, spices and, of course, gold! Although thereare 80 different types of toppings available, a mathematician friend of theSimkos calculated that 60 million different combinations were probablypossible – not sure what they would be and if they would be edible! November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsTALENTED TRIO CUTTING-EDGE BRASSERIEUNVEIL WINE LIST SYDNEY has a new cutting-edge restaurant, bar and oysterLEADING Sydney wine expert room. The New York-style brasserie, The Morrison, spearheadedIan Cook is overseeing a by Fraser Short and acclaimed chef Sean Connolly, is situatedlist of artisan wine labels for on the corner of George and Grosvenor streets, one ofGowings Bar & Grill, which has Sydney’s most prominent sites. The Morrison comprises Thebeen labelled as one of the Oyster Room, where oysters are shucked to order, The Parlour,hottest restaurant openings a small cocktail bar and The Conservatory, an open-air terrace.of 2012 in Sydney. Part of the “We wanted to create something that gives back to the historynew QT Sydney design hotel, of the site, and have chosen to hand craft a restaurant andthe new eatery has called on the talents of industry veteran Cook, bar concept in line with this,” says Short. The drinks menufood director Robert Marchetti and executive chef Paul Easson. showcases the world’s most unique of products, from rare“We’re here to add diversity to a diner’s experience, as well as putting London gin, the finest Kentucky bourbons to the freshestdiners at ease - helping them choose the wines that best suit the local boutique brews. The Morrison Bar and Oyster Room,foods they’ve ordered and to have a bit of fun exploring the wine list,” 225 George St, Sydney. www.themorrison.com.au.says Cook. The Gowings Bar and Grill list ranges from full-bodied,grill friendly South Australian reds to light and dry rosés from South FESTIVALEof France with Cook sourcing wines from Australia, New Zealand, SET TO CELEBRATESpain, Italy, Germany, Austria and France to give diners a variety 25 YEARSof wine styles to choose from. Gowings Bar & Grill, corner Georgeand Market streets, Sydney. www.qthotels.com.au. THE 2013 edition of Festivale will mark the 25th birthday ofVINTAGE Launceston’s premier wineMILESTONE and food event. More than 70 gourmet stalls will beSUE Hodder completed her selected for the event, which20th vintage as winemaker will run from February 8-10at iconic Wynns Coonawarra and will feature some newEstate earlier this year – but wine awards. Festivale attracts around 35,000 patrons each yearthere was no fuss about to sample and enjoy the offerings of local producers, as well asthe milestone, just the way entertainment from a wide range of Tasmanian and mainlandHodder likes it. For Hodder acts. Festivale was established in 1988 as a party associatedand Wynns viticulturist Alan with the Bicentennial celebrations to highlight Launceston’sJenkins, the primary focus is multicultural history. Formerly held in the CBD, it has beenalways on the quality of the Wynns wines rather than personalities. conducted in City Park since 1995 and is regarded as one ofHodder loves working with a brand that she says many consumers the best food and wine festivals in the country.feel a “sentimental attachment to”. “People are always asking me:“What’s new at Wynns?” Hodder says. “The answer is: Nothing BAROSSA FOCUSexcept the barrels. We aren’t out to change the world, we justconcentrate on what we do well.” THE Barossa is to be the focus of a major tourism push early next year. The new campaign, following the successfulBENTLEY DRIVES showcasing of Kangaroo Island this year, will be part ofFOR CHRISTMAS LAUNCH a strategy to promote South Australia as a food and wine destination. “It’s time to focus some energy on the Barossa,”THE Bentley Restaurant and Bar will open its new wine bar, Monopole SA Tourism Commission marketing director David O’Loughlinin Potts Point, Sydney, before Christmas. Head chef Brent Savage’s says. “It’s one of our great icons and in a way we’ve probablyfood will be as much a part of the bar as Nick Hildebrandt’s wine list, left the region to wither on the vine.” The new strategy willwith a focus on house-cured meats and a tight, constantly evolving portray the Barossa as a vibrant destination that offersmenu. The 50-seater Monopole will be open seven days a week from much more than cellar doors and wine tasting. He said wineearly evening until late, and will feature Savage’s unique modern touring alone was no longer enough to attract visitors but thefood but as a shareable, small plate offering. “Nick and I have been Barossa was well-placed with prestigious restaurants suchworking together for almost 10 years now and it feels like the right as Appellation and recently opened Hentley Farm, as welltime for us to develop a different drinking and dining experience,” as new accommodation at Kingsford Homestead, the formersays Savage. “We are taking wine bar food to another level, so we Drover’s Run set for the television series McLeod’s Daughters.know that between Nick’s wine list and our inventive bar menu we “The Barossa is getting ahead of the game - and now is thewill be offering Sydney’s drinkers and diners something unique.” time to announce that,” he said.18 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

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nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine sceneKIWI WINE SHORTAGE LOOMS BRIDGE PA TRIANGLE LAUNCHED INSTOCK up now, if you’ve grown accustomed to drinking New HAWKE’S BAYZealand wine at low prices. The thirst for Kiwi sauvignon blancand pinot noir in world markets is growing, but production from OF HAWKE’S Bay’s dozen or sothe 2012 vintage has slumped. The glut is gone and the five- sub-regions, the best promotedyear period of discounted prices is about to end. “We’ll see less in recent years has been thewine available at bargain basement prices,” says Stuart Smith, Gimblett Gravels Winegrowingwho recently stood down after six years as the chair of New District. Now comes the Bridge PaZealand Winegrowers. Smith believes that boosting sales in the Triangle Wine District, representing the interests of 10 wineries$NZ15-plus category is the new goal for winemakers, although, and the largest concentration of vineyards in Hawke’s Bay.given the stagnant world economy, many consumers will resistpaying more for wine. On the south side of the Heretaunga Plains, inland from Hastings, within a roughly triangular area formed by Global wine stocks are at their lowest level for a decade. Maraekakaho Rd, State Highway 50 and Ngatarawa Rd, theAfter huge harvests in 2008, 2009 and 2011, New Zealand’s Bridge Pa Triangle was once frequently called the “Ngatarawaproduction fell by 18 per cent in 2012. “Sales will have to decline,” Triangle”, and less often the “Redmetal Triangle”. Localnotes Philip Gregan, CEO of New Zealand Winegrowers, “and winegrowers claim the district, in terms of its grape ripeningwe expect our largest declines will be in our most established potential, has “the same” average growing degree days (GDD)markets – New Zealand, UK and Australia.” The country’s as the Medoc and Coonawarra. The soils, slightly more fertilevineyard expansion also ground to a halt recently, so Gregan than around Gimblett Rd, have a 30-50cm layer of sandy siltsays he cannot forecast any significant growth in the volume of overlying red metal gravels. Merlot has been the big successNew Zealand wine sales for at least five years. “It’s all going to so far, yielding reds described by winemaker Jenny Dobsonbe value growth,” he stresses – meaning New Zealand wines as “softer, rounder wines, plummy and less tannic than thosewill be more expensive. If New Zealand’s winegrowers no longer from Gimblett Rd”.have to worry about oversupply, Chile is causing a few sleeplessnights, emerging as a rival source of vibrantly fruity, cool-climate WINEMAKERS BULLISHsauvignon blanc. New Zealand Winegrowers recently organiseda tasting of South American wines. “They are now moving into the CENTRAL Otago’s 118 wine producers have been reaching forsame space that we want to fill, so it’s important to understand superlatives (“great”, “superb”, “amazing”) after the 2012 vintage,the competition,” Gregan says. which yielded 8115 tonnes of grapes, their second biggest crop on record. In spring, a normal September was followedFAMILY by an extremely wet October. Grasshopper Rock reported lowWINEMAKER DIES temperatures in November, reflecting high rainfall. Summer began with a warm, dry December, but was followed by a cool, wetLINCOLN, today best known January and wet February.for its wines under the brandDistant Land, epitomises Early autumn brought “lots of rain”, according to Domain Roadthe West Auckland cluster Vineyard in late March. “The total heat for the season is below-of old, family-owned average. It’s running late.” Some grapes at Gibbston and in thewineries of Croatian origin. Cromwell Basin were lost to bunch rot. April, however, provedFour generations of the warm and notably dry. Central Otago received less than a quarterFredatovich family, all called of its normal rainfall, and at Cromwell, the monthly sunshine hoursPeter, have played pivotal total was the highest on record.roles in the company sinceit was founded in 1937. During May, the weather stayed dry and sunny. Chard FarmFollowing the recent death reported “a superb harvest. The crop weights were bang-on andof managing director Peter the flavours are excellent.” Gibbston Valley harvested pinot gris,Michael Fredatovich (61), who took over the reins in the late chardonnay and riesling showing “amazing clarity and fresh1980s, the business is now headed by his son, Peter Stephen intensity”, and described its pinot noir as possessing “sweetFredatovich, formerly the export manager. Distant Land’s grapes fruit, excellent balance and ripeness”. After a cool summer andare drawn from growers in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough. sunny, dry autumn, growers at Waipara, in North Canterbury, were also highly enthusiastic, predicting wines with moderate alcohol levels and very rich flavours.20 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPER PASS IT ONONE OF the pleasures of being a THE DOCTOR’S RIESLING lack the vivacity of ours. Marlborough haswine writer is the steady stream of the established reputation – and peoplewinegrowers who arrive on my doorstep John Forrest and his wife, Brigid, a GP, don’t like to dethrone the king….”bearing samples and news about what’s have built up one of Marlborough’s biggest happening in their corner of the wine family-owned wineries. Born in the region, THE FRENCH CONNECTIONworld. I’ve recently had some especially Forrest gained a PhD in biomedicalenlightening visitors, whose views are sciences and later worked as a research Damien Barton-Sartorius spent two monthswell worth passing on. scientist. His first wine scooped the trophy in Hawke’s Bay working the 2012 vintage for champion rosé at the Air New Zealand at Te Mata Estate. A slim, handsome,PRINCE OF PINOT NOIR Wine Awards in 1990. unassuming young man, Barton-Sartorius adopted a low profile during his stay, butLarry McKenna has often been dubbed Your reds are often too his family owns Chateau Leoville-Barton,New Zealand’s “king” or, more poetically, one of the greatest vineyards in Bordeaux,“prince” of pinot noir. After building heavy, reflecting over-ripe estimated recently by Liv-ex (Londonan illustrious reputation during his International Vintners Exchange) to belong, pioneering spell at Martinborough grapes. Even some of the worth around $NZ250 million.Vineyard (1986-1999), McKenna now Do you see parallels between Bordeauxproduces top-flight reds under his pinot noirs are too big – and Hawke’s Bay?flagship Escarpment brand and a lower- “Both regions have similar temperaturespriced label, The Edge. they taste like syrahs. and free-draining soils. But New Zealand’sWhat’s so special about pinot noir? vines are young, whereas in Bordeaux we “It’s the most food-friendly red of all and What’s your favourite wine style? make the top wines from older vines – andgoes especially well with today’s lighter, “It’s riesling – the intelligent person’s wine. their grape yields decline with age. Wefresher, less fatty cuisine. The wines drink Riesling stimulates your mouth with its recently pulled out a block that was nearlybeautifully, regardless of whether they are acidity and minerality; it challenges your 100 years old.”young or aged.” senses. Pinot gris to me is a lesser variety How can New Zealand improve its reds?What aroused your interest in wine? – it’s softer, more restrained, less cerebral.” “Your reds are often too heavy, reflecting“I blame my parents. When I was growing What’s your biggest-selling wine? over-ripe grapes. Even some of the pinotup in Adelaide my father (a surgeon) had “Our The Doctors’ Marlborough Riesling. It’s a noirs are too big – they taste like syrahs.a cellar stocked with McLaren Vale reds. low alcohol, medium-sweet style. When it was The winemakers here tell me that theyOur family occasions always involved wine. launched in 2006, it legitimised drinkability.” are ‘show’ wines. Robert Parker (the USDad instilled the mystique of wine in me – The 2012 New Zealand grape harvest is wine guru) encourages these big, heavythe way it had to be kept in the dark, on its a lot smaller than 2011. Is this a good or wines and his influence spills over intoside, and needed time…” bad thing? Hawke’s Bay. At Leoville-Barton and ourHow good are New Zealand’s pinot noirs “It’s good because it will get supply and other chateaux, we pick the grapes earlier,by international standards? demand back into balance. Some prices with higher acidity, which helps the wines“They run rings around Australia and are will go up, but a lot will stay the same. In to mature well.”certainly competitive with California and the UK, where Tesco has been selling three Are new Zealand’s top reds too cheap?Oregon – in a ‘blind’ tasting it’s hard to bottles of Marlborough sauvignon blanc for “No. Bordeaux prices are very highpick where they come from. The red wines 10 pounds, that will drop to two bottles.” (Leoville-Barton 2008 is currently sellingfrom Burgundy are more complex and New Zealand winegrowers say Chile is in Auckland for $NZ170) because they aremature more beautifully. That could be “moving into the same space that we fancy to own – a way to impress, like thedue to the greater age of their vines, but want to fill”. Is Chile a serious threat? home cinema or the Ferrari. New Zealandit’s probably more to do with the place and “I visited Chile recently, but came away less should keep its prices modest becausehaving 1000 years of experience. We are in awe than I expected. Their sauvignons fine Bordeaux is expensive and people arecatching up fast!” looking for alternatives.” November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 21

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW BALANCING ACTEUROPE appears to be finding a new around the world, rising bulk prices are good Sticking with France and Spain, they eachbalance on the world viticultural stage. news for producers. Australia, overall, has have an appellation based on schist thatIn the 10 years to 2011, share of global been a beneficiary in this regard. produces some extraordinary, bold, yetproduction of the top three producer fine-textured red wines, with supplenesscountries fell by more than 3 per cent. For those three top producers France, Italy and surprising fragrance to the fruit for warmFrance’s share shrunk from more than 20 and Spain, production-consumption balance regions. They are not the only appellationsper cent to less than 19 per cent. Italy’s is being further helped by wine export data, with schist (Alsace, Beaujolais, Loire valley,share fell from 19 to 16 per cent, while which showed some recovery during 2011, northern Rhone, for example), but bothSpain’s has increased by just 1 percentage though not necessarily to pre-recession Faugeres in southern France’s Languedocpoint to nearly 13 per cent. levels. Italy’s exports in 2011 grew by 12 and Priorat in north-east Spain, about per cent to reach more than €4.4 billion, two hours’ drive south west of Barcelona, It’s not just share of production that is according to ISTAT, the national statistics are based almost entirely on surface-declining. Actual production in 2011 was agency. Volume was also up, by 9 per cent, rocky schist ground. Schist is crystalline,down in Italy and Spain, while France sported giving the country some 22 per cent share layered rock similar to slate that has beena small increase from a notably smaller base of the global export market for wine, mainly metamorphosed by intense pressure. It isthan a decade ago. The OIV (International going to the US, Germany and the UK. rich in mica and similar minerals.Organisation of Vine and Wine) officiallyclassified Europe’s production as “low” in Spain’s exports are much less valuable, The rocky schist which glistens with2011, being 157mhl across the whole of despite growing 17 per cent by value and quartzite crystals provides one of theEurope. This is down nearly 5 per cent on 26 per cent by volume in 2011. The Spanish defining characters for Priorat wines. Alvaro Wine Market Supervisory Board reported Palacios, of the eponymous property, described his terroir, saying it is ancientIt estimates global wine stocks are at their lowest “metamorphic rock, formed 5 to 50kmlevel for a decade, and while tightening supply is felt under the earth’s crust where two horizonsirregularly around the world, rising bulk prices are of limestone had compacted a layer ofgood news for producers. clay.” Subsequent tectonic movement has brought it to the surface. Palaciosthe 2006 to 2010 five-year average. Italy exports valued at €2.2 billion mostly going to added: “it has three times more metals andregistered the biggest decline, falling nearly Germany, the UK and the US, though France minerals than sedimentary rock” that has7mhl, or by an amount equivalent to two- imported the most volume. Spain is the only not undergone metamorphosis.thirds of the annual production of Australia. country of the top three where average prices per exported litre had fallen in 2011. Palacios, along with Rene Barbier, These data collated by the OIV suggest is arguably the most famous Prioratviticultural global dynamics do appear to France remains the biggest exporter. It’s vintner. Both were part of the 1990’sbe changing. While climate has its place in Wines’ and Spirits’ Exporters Federation revolution that turned Priorat from aaffecting yield, elements of such medium- reported the value of French wine exports was forgotten and disintegrating backwater toterm changes incorporate the effects of up more than 10 per cent to €10.1 billion, while a vinous temple. While Barbier makes Closthe European Union wine sector reform. So volume rebounded just over 2 per cent. While Mogador, Palacios makes Finca Dofi andwith global production generally falling and not yet back at their 2007 levels, this is a huge L’Ermita. Barbier said his “wines are builtglobal consumption showing only a modest boost for an oft-beleaguered industry and on the basis of terroir, so the minerality andincrease, Rabobank, an international food shows some revitalised interest in the sector. the tannins are interwined.”and agribusiness financial services provider, The emerging markets of Brazil, Russia, India,is suggesting supply shortage is emerging China and South Africa accounted for more Faugeres is little different. Paul Gordonat a global level. It estimates global wine than 10 per cent of total exports, while the of Domaine la Sarabande said schiststocks are at their lowest level for a decade, traditional markets of the UK and Germany “is a boney soil, and once the vines areand while tightening supply is felt irregularly still both saw double-digit decline. established, roots can go 6m down.” And the schist, he said, gives the wine minerality. This is a point picked up by consultant winemaker Helene Rosello, who said “Faugeres is special because of the schist, giving wines22 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

with minerality, and with fruits and tannins that Winestate 2012 Top 40are soft and sweet in the mouth.” Best Value Under $20 It was this schist that drew Aussie Jem (Australia & New Zealand)Harris to the region. He said “the poor soilforces roots deep into the ground, so you HOGGIES ESTATEget a notion of terroir. It imparts a certain CABERNET SAUVIGNONamount of mineral focus, of graphite,”adding the schist “holds the heat of the Concentrated blackberry and ripe plums withday and releases it back during the night.” toasty aromas. Intense blackberry and cassis fruit with a hint of chocolate and mint, the soft Indeed, the warmth during both day oak tannins and mouth filling fruit permeatesand night is important for both Priorat and through to the back palate and lingers longingly.Faugeres. The grape varieties need warmthto ripen successfully. It’s one of the reasons gavin.hogg@bigpond.comtempranillo doesn’t do so well in Priorat - Ph +61 418 854 102it’s just too hot in most spots. In Faugeres,Brigitte Chevalier, of Domaine de Cebene,went as far as to say “mourvedre on schist isthe best pairing you can find. Schist softensthe impetuousness of mourvedre when it’syoung. It gives ripe, spicy notes, specificfruits to mourvedre, and it will age for years.” Possibly unsurprisingly, both appellationsare based on a broadly similar blend ofblack grape varieties, including carignanand grenache as major components inboth, plus cinsault, mourvedre and syrahin Faugeres, and international cabernetsauvignon, merlot and syrah in Priorat.Both appellations are also, coincidentally,around the same size at 2000ha. Both regions can be pretty dry too insummer; Priorat has less than 400mm ofannual rainfall, but a characteristic of schistare the fine clays held between the layers ofrock. These retain moisture for vine roots tosearch out and use over the growing season.Where the regions differ hugely is in thefashion stakes. Priorat wines have reachedthe repute of much-sought-after, and manyhave the prices to match. In 2000 it becameonly Spain’s second DOCa, alongside Rioja,the highest level of appellation possible. Onthe other hand, Faugeres fundamentally lacksthe trend status of Priorat. However, given thatPriorat’s fortunes reversed just a generationago, perhaps it won’t be that long before thewines of Faugeres are equally famed.

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYCOMING TO TERMS WITH TERROIRWHAT has always intrigued me is whether higher altitudes than pinot noir; why? Well Stuart Bourne, winemaker at Chateauthere is a direct correlation to the soil it is the coastal fog that rolls into the valleys Tanunda in the Barossa, sees regionala vine is grown in and the flavour and below, (typically Anderson Valley) that allows difference and the role of terroir as the nextaroma you finally get in a glass of wine. the higher ridge areas to bask in morning sun exploratory step for the Australian winePerhaps it is whimsical to ponder if you can and ripen grapes. In Australia, the Hunter drinker Since 2005, Chateau Tanunda hasactually “smell the dirt” that the vine sits in. Valley receives a welcoming cloud cover in produced three shiraz from three differentHowever, try holding and immerse yourself the afternoons, which drifts in from the coast sub-regions in the Barossa - Greenock,in the aromas of a traditionally made Grand and reduces the sometimes dangerously high Lyndoch and Ebenezer. “We keep theor Premier Cru Chablis. To me it smells of summer temperature. winemaking process identical. All threea freshly opened oyster shell. If you travel vineyards are picked at the same level ofto the vineyards, located above the sleepy There are some complex soils around the maturity, they all go through a basket press,town of Chablis and stand on those famous world, no more so than in Burgundy where in open top fermenters, same yeast, sameintimidating, chilly slopes, you will find extremely short distances the wines range in fermentation temperature, same oak profilebanks of fossilised seashells in the soil. quality from superb down to very ordinary. In and racking so the difference seen in theChablis has a distinct terroir. simple terms central Burgundy is divided in glass is down to the terroir,” Bourne adds. two by a fault line. Those vineyards that are According to Jancis Robinson’s Oxford above the Saone fault are often on dry, firm There can be up to six weeks difference inCompanion to Wine 3rd edition (2006) terroir is limestone and marl soils. Below the fault line ripening times in the Barossa sub-regions.the “total natural environment of any viticultural the vines sit often with their feet wet on damp The three vineyards are spread over a 15-site”. Terroir is the combined effects of the soil, ground with soils composed of silt, sand and 20km radius. Lyndoch comes in earliest,the topography of the land and climate in all clay. Drainage is extremely important. Take around two weeks later Greenock is picked. Ebenezer is the last to be picked, anotherAll three vineyards are picked at the same level of couple of weeks after Greenock. They allmaturity, they all go through a basket press, open taste different, notes Bourne. “Lyndoch hastop fermenters, same yeast, same fermentation distinct mocha and chocolate flavours withtemperature, same oak profile and racking so the plush velvet, rich tannins. Greenock is verydifference seen in the glass is down to the terroir. muscular with bold, mid-palate fruit and full, firm tannins. Ebenezer is quite differentits aspects – Macro (region), Meso (vineyard) the vines at Chateau Latour in Bordeaux for with floral aromas and softer tannins, moreand Micro climate (vine canopy). instance. Located in sight of the Gironde elegant in style,” he says. The soils are estuary, they sit on a bed of gravel that is up different in all three vineyards and Bourne Let’s consider climate before we explore the to 9m deep in some parts, which means the believes these are the determining factor“dirt” a bit more. Climate plays an important drainage is excellent. These gravel mounds on why they make different tasting wines.role in determining the style and quality of on their own would not support the vine and it Lyndoch is on deep dark clay, whilewine. Often Australian wine displays its climate is only through the tenacity of the root system Greenock has hard ironstone and redunambiguously – think about the cultural that they survive and find nutrients in bands clay, and Ebenezer has more sandy loamcringe catch phrase of “sunshine in a glass”. of clay, silt and sand deep below ground. texture, but well drained.However we can modify the climatic effectsby choosing the type of canopy, selecting the So does terroir affect wine styles and quality? Frankland Estate is a similar story. Led byaspect for a vineyard, growing at high levels One of the easiest ways of determining this is Barrie Smith and Judi Cullam, they selectof altitude or by planting close to water; be it to apply the same winemaking skills to fruit riesling fruit from three vineyards within aoceans, lakes or rivers. They can all modify the sourced from different vineyards or regions 25km radius of the winery - Isolation Ridge,climate by either making growing conditions and look at the results. A number of Australian Netley Road and Poison Hill. While all threeslightly cooler or warmer. In some coastal companies do this as well. Frankland Estate share similar climatic conditions they haveareas of California such as Mendocino Ridge, in WA and Chateau Tanunda in the Barossa different soils and micro climates, andfull bodied reds like zinfandel are grown at Valley are two excellent examples. taste quite different. The best quality wines are the ones that have particular sensitivity to their place of origin and are able to display the DNA of their terroir when poured.24 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

Join Australia’s Original Wine Club and take home a Hunter icon – absolutely free!CCaThlal b1hro3u0iet0sg7tifp2tm3Me7e2amr3bfsteoersfgcihnidiptfso.tut! By wine lovers, for wine lovers… The Wine Society is Australia’s original wine club. Founded in 1946 by committed oenophile Dr Gilbert Phillips and a group of his wine-loving friends, it has been scouring the country and beyond ever since for the best wines for its Members, at the best possible prices. After 66 years of bringing great wines and wine lovers together,The Wine Society has developed incredible relationships with wineries around the country and we want to share the fruits of these relationships with you. During November and December,Winestate readers will receive a bottle of Lakes Folly Cabernets 2010, worth $89.99, just for joining The Wine Society. Why join The Wine Society? Exclusive wines Our Society label wines are extraordinary value and consistent award-winners.And we have plenty of other exclusive wines from around Australia and beyond. Exclusive Member prices Members receive preferential pricing on all our wines, as well as our wide range of events and educational programs around the country. Wines with a story In an industry increasingly dominated by supermarket giants, we stand apart as a not- for-profit co-operative. Our passion is for the little guy. Independent producers, small parcels, little-known wines and future classics; these are the things that excite us – wines with a story. Quality… guaranteed! Our ruthless Tasting Panel comprises winemakers, show judges and MWs, so only the very best get the seal of approval.And if you still don’t like one of our wines – no problem. Return it for a 100% discount. No questions asked. What does it cost? Buying 25 x $2 shares gives you lifetime membership of The Wine Society.There are no annual fees or charges. Should you decide to leave us at any time you’ll even get your money back! You’ve really got nothing to lose.And with a welcome gift worth $89.99, you’ve got plenty to gain!Just call 1300 723 723 or visit www.winesociety.com.au and quote WST1112 Lic. No. LIQP770010086.The Wine Society supports the responsible service of alcohol. Liquor Act 2007 - It is against the law to sell or supply alcohol to, or to obtain alcohol on behalf of, a person under the age of 18 years. For full conditions of membership visit www.winesociety.com.au. Code can be redeemed once per customer. Cannot be combined with any other offer.

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGCYPRUS - LAND OF LOVE AND WINETO BE honest, Cyprus had never been I stayed in the Greek part of the island, sea views truly deserve that over-usedhigh on my travel wish list. Too many officially called the Republic of Cyprus. adjective - stunning.British package tourists (1.5 million a The most intriguing place to exploreyear) looking for a cheap lifestyle in the its tangled history is Nicosia, which Limassol, like Paphos, is a major resortsun and too much historical baggage enjoys the dubious claim of being the town and the biggest port on the islandover the partition of the island always put only divided capital city in the world. where history lurks amid the modernme off. But these prejudices faded fast There have been several outbreaks of malls, plazas, hotels and office blocks.as I took a dip near Petra tou Romiu, a harmony, as the locals put it, since 2003 The oldest part of town dates back to thecraggy rock off the southern coast of the and there’s now six crossings which 13th century and there’s always a crowdisland, where legend has it that Aphrodite allow tourists to explore the Greek and massed at the Byzantine castle. There’s afirst emerged from the sea. Turkish sections. lot more people congregating in the bars and clubs, however, where the real action If the Greek goddess of love reprised The Greek part of the city, with Venetian starts after 2am.the same foam-flecked event today, ramparts and designer shops whereshe would make straight for the nearby you can buy up big in euros, is far ritzier Spring and autumn are the optimumColumbia Beach Resort overlooking than the “other side”. It’s also home to times to visit Cyprus unless you preferPissouri Bay, one of the most lush the Cyprus Archaeological Museum, the 40C days of August. I planned myfive-star hotels in the Med, where the the richest treasure house of Cypriot visit in September to coincide withclientele is much more cosmopolitan antiquities. Coffee and other necessities the Wine Festival of Cyprus, one ofthan it used to be. After a grim couple of are much cheaper when you’re paying in Limassol’s star events of the year. Moreyears when tourism dipped because of Turkish lira, though, and there’s plenty to than 100,000 people turned up and thethe island’s dependence on tourists from discover when you cross the notorious Cyprus Tourism Organisation (CTO) organised bus services from all the majorToday, around 50 boutique wineries, many the pet projects of local bankers,scientists and business people, produce chardonnay, sauvignon blanc andsemillon, and have done much to lift the Cyprus sherry image of the island’s wines.the UK, Cyprus is casting a wider net Green Line from the restored Buyuk Han, towns along the coast to swell the throngto attract visitors. Every coastal town is a 16th century Ottoman inn, to equally of locals and tourists.full of Russians, now the second largest historic hamams and street markets.tourism market, and the island expects Far from being a one-off, tasting Cypriotto welcome 400,000 of them by the end The third largest island in the wine is a year-round attraction in Limassolof the year. Mediterranean also has three World from the four major wineries in the port area Heritage sites - the Byzantine churches to the vine-covered hills of the surrounding The main lure of Cyprus for northern in the Troodos Mountains, the Neolithic region peppered with picturesqueEuropeans is an estimated 326 days of settlement of Choirokoitia and the old krassohoria (wine villages) where you cansunshine a year, hotels that cater for all town of Paphos, where ancient villas, chat with the owners of the micro-wineries.budgets and crowded beaches. But away mediaeval fortresses, tombs and Roman Winelovers can also follow the wine trailsfrom the bar-infested waterfronts, karaoke mosaics jostle for your attention. Cypriot of the striking Akamas peninsula and thebars and English-style pubs of the major food can be very good but there’s a lot of Troodos mountains, guided by the popularcoastal towns, the achingly beautiful dodgy moussakas and meze plates to be brochure from the CTO.scenery of the Troodos mountains, found in the popular tourist restaurants.snow-capped in winter, and the flocks of Avoid taking a risk in Paphos by dining at Call it serendipity or what you will. Butflamingos strutting across Larnaca Salt the five-star Almyra Hotel ( almyra.com), a year after musician and composer,Lake in winter are major attractions for where the outdoor restaurant terrace Anastasia Guy, founded the Cyprus Wineanyone keen to tour Cyprus by car. serves top-notch Cypriot dishes and the Museum in the village of Erimi on the old Limassol road in 2004, archaeologists26 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

discovered a history of wine-making in MARLBOROUGHthe area dating back to 3500BC - theoldest evidence of wine production in Lake Chalice is a proud sponsorEurope. Located in a former inn where of the Wingspan Trust,wine merchants stayed before headingfor the major markets in Limassol, the protecting and preserving themuseum traces the island’s 5500 year New Zealand Falcon.wine heritage from ancient amphorae tothe wine revolution of the 1990s. For much of the 20th century twoindigenous grapes - Mavro and Xinisteri- dominated Cypriot vineyards. Theystill do, accounting for 63 per cent ofplantings. But, like many other traditionalwine-growing regions in Europe, thetime came for an upgrade and manyvineyards were re-planted with grapesmore appealing to international winedrinkers - cabernet, carignan noir andshiraz. Up until a decade ago 95 per centof Cypriot wine production was in thehands of the Big Four companies - Keo,Etko, SODAP and Loel. Today, around 50boutique wineries, many the pet projectsof local bankers, scientists and businesspeople, produce chardonnay, sauvignonblanc and semillon, and have done muchto lift the “Cyprus sherry” image of theisland’s wines. As with most things in Cyprus, the pastis very much alive in local winemaking.The island’s greatest claim to oenologicalfame is Commanderia, the sweet dessertwine first made by the Templars and theKnights of St John in the 12th century.Richard the Lionheart drank it at hiswedding and English poet, ElizabethBarrett Browning, wrote: “The Cypruswine is as sweet as the lyre of theMuses”. When you visit Cyprus youcan drink it made in the traditional wayor sip it in strikingly modern stone andtimber wineries such as the ConstantinouWinery near the picture postcard villageof Pera Pedi, where locals claim thatMarsala is just a poor imitation of thereal thing. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 27

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L SIMON IN AUSTRALIA, PART 2ANDRE SIMON, aged 86, writer, wine and lack of confidence. He admitted to dreading January 9-10; Corowa January 11-13;food connoisseur, and founder and head having to queue to buy his plane tickets. “I Tahbilk January 14; Melbourne Januaryof the Wine and Food Society, made his never can hear what they call on those loud 15-19; Ballarat January 20; Ararat Januaryfirst visit to Australia and New Zealand in speakers. I know that I cannot expect all the 21; Melbourne January 22-23; Adelaide1963-’64. He landed in Melbourne aboard time to have a nurse with me, but I hope January 24-28; Angaston January 29;SS Canberra on Friday, December 13, that a good Samaritan will be available at Adelaide January 31- February 1; Sydney1963. One wonders what the connoisseur the different places which I am to visit,” February 2-3; New Zealand February 4-19;thought of the shipboard food – Madge he wrote. This was, of course, arranged. Sydney February 20-22; and finally backGibson, wife of Simon’s main itinerary to SS Canberra February 23-25, departingorganiser in Australia, Victor Gibson, There were many alterations to the first from Melbourne on February 25.had travelled aboard the ship and was draft of the itinerary. Melbournian Victornot impressed: “I don’t think you will be Gibson, its main organiser together with As he wrote in a letter to Gibson fromecstatic about this aspect of your voyage Sir James McGregor in Sydney, was Aden on November 30, Simon greatlyto Australia,” she warned. particularly anxious that Simon did not appreciated “all the trouble which you have too many commitments on any day. are taking to make my visit enjoyable as well as interesting, and I shall do exactlyWe sincerely trust that in our endeavour to compile what I am told, like a good boy”. But there was one condition on which Simonthis itinerary, we have given each and every one of you remained firm – “that I am free to spend a fortnight in New Zealand…with my friendan opportunity of entertaining Mr Simon, and have Thorpy (Frank Thorpy, wine writer and president of the Wine and Food Societyallocated you a reasonable amount of his time when of Auckland)”. One suspects that the Australians would have preferred Simonone considers his age and the distances to be travelled. to stay in Australia for those two weeks. Simon was, of course, expected to attend He wrote to Simon on November 15, 1963 Inevitably, there was some interstatean exhausting array of functions during his saying that he thought that the itinerary rivalry. In a letter to Penfold Hyland on10-week visit – everyone wanted a piece as it stood would need considerable December 16, when Simon was alreadyof him. A tremendous amount of work reorganising, because “parts of it would in Sydney, Gibson wrote: “I am gettingwent into planning the maestro’s stay. In be far too rushed and too arduous for a little apprehensive about him beingNovember 1963, Gibson wrote letters to you. We want you to enjoy your stay in well looked after in South Australia, butthe major wineries seeking assistance in Australia and I want to guard against any perhaps my feelings are unjustified”.selecting “some outstanding Australian of the itinerary looking like a road race”. Indeed they were, as we shall see later.wines” for two important functions which So Gibson and colleague Jeffery Penfold This anxiety may have been becauseSimon would attend. He sought sherries, Hyland met at Melbourne’s Windsor there was no branch of the Wine anddry whites, dry reds and dessert wines, Hotel to make some revisions. Again, Food Society in Adelaide – but thereas well as details of any awards they had they were concerned about “tiring him were several Bacchus Clubs.received. Among wineries approached out”, and decided that he should visitwere Yalumba, Penfolds, Stonyfell and only two wineries a day. Coonawarra On December 5 Penfold Hyland sentThomas Hardy and Sons. Winemakers were and Langhorne Creek were omitted “to letters to all of the wineries which Simonanxious to show off their achievements. save a great deal of driving”. The men was to visit: “We sincerely trust that in ourFor instance, Alf Wark at Yalumba eagerly were to be surprised at Simon’s stamina. endeavour to compile this itinerary, weoffered dry and amontillado sherries, dry have given each and every one of you anwhites and dry reds. The final timetable would have worn out a opportunity of entertaining Mr Simon, and much younger person, and is worth giving have allocated you a reasonable amount That same month Simon, in a typed letter in full: Sydney December 15-19, 1963; the of his time when one considers his ageto Gibson (this was most unusual as Simon Hunter Valley December 20-22; Sydney and the distances to be travelled”.almost always wrote in an expansive, December 22-January 4; Brisbane Januaryflowing blue ink hand) expressed a rare 5-6; Sydney January 7-8; Canberra At last, the big day of Simon’s arrival came. He was immediately taken to lunch, as we shall see next time.28 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012



WINEGROWING ON THE VAST, PANCAKE-FLATON THE OUTPUT FROM Canterbury Plains - the most extensive NEW ZEALAND’S lowlands in New Zealand - that border Christchurch, vineyards are scattered verySOUTHERN SOUTHERN WINE thinly, but less than an hour’s drive north of the REGIONS OF city, the significantly warmer Waipara Valley has built a strong reputation for pinot noirFRONTIER CANTERBURY and riesling, and lately other aromatic white AND OTAGO wines, especially gewurztraminer and pinot gris. Much further south, Otago’s vineyardsMICHAEL COOPER MIGHT BE SMALL, are mostly clustered north-west of the city of Dunedin, in the majestic inland basins and BUT THE QUALITY valleys the locals refer to as just “Central”. STANDS OUT. More than a quarter of all New Zealand wine producers are now based in the two southern regions, Canterbury and Otago, but in 2012, they processed just 5.6 per cent of the national grape harvest. Most of the producers are tiny, although two big companies, Pernod Ricard NZ and30 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

Christchurch, won the second gold superb red wine can be seen in Pasquale medal ever awarded to a NZ pinot noir, it Hakataramea Valley Pinot Noir 2010, awarded electrified the fledgling Canterbury wine five stars in Winestate’s Canterbury/Otago community. A decade or so later, the first regional tasting in this edition. In Central gold medal ever won by a Central Otago Otago, the industry is currently celebrating wine was awarded to Rippon Vineyard 25 years since the production of the region’s Pinot Noir 1991, grown at Wanaka. first commercial wines. Gibbston Valley, Taramea - no longer in existence - and Rippon Today, North Canterbury has over 1800ha all produced a trickle of wine for sale in 1987. of vineyards, mostly at Waipara but also In May 1988, Gibbston Valley released a in other districts - Waikari, Hawarden, 1987 pinot noir, 1987 pinot gris and 1987 Hanmer and Cheviot. Many producers have “dry white” (blended from muller-thurgau and recently been hit hard by the Christchurch gewurztraminer), totalling 900 bottles. earthquakes, which forced the closure of many of the city’s restaurants, normally This May, wine lovers flocked to Gibbston keen supporters of Waipara wines. Valley to hand-harvest pinot noir grapes from the same vines that were the foundation of the In a bid to raise the sub-region’s profile, first 1987 vintage. The fruit is reserved for one Waipara Valley Winegrowers has joined of the company’s flagship single-vineyard forces with the Hurunui Tourism Board reds, Gibbston Valley Le Maitre (The Master) to form WaiparaValleyNZ. The group’s Pinot Noir. Central Otago’s first plantings promotional program includes “Spring were at Wanaka, Gibbston and Alexandra, Lamb and Pinot Noir” dinners, “In Praise but today the most important sub-region by of Riesling” events, and the Waipara Valley far is the relatively warm and early-ripening Food & Wine Celebration. proof of this remote inland valley’s ability to yield superb red wine can be seen in pasquale hakataramea valley pinot noir 2010.Mud House, have vineyards at Waipara, The Waitaki Valley, in North Otago, is one Cromwell Basin. John Olssen and Heatherand Chard Farm, Mt Difficulty, Sherwood, of New Zealand’s key catchment areas for McPherson planted the first vines in 1991,Rossendale, Peregrine, Pegasus Bay, hydro-electric power generation. Waitaki at Olssen’s Garden Vineyard, Bannockburn.Southern Boundary and Tiki all rank among means “weeping waters”, but the valleythe country’s medium-sized producers. also generates weeping land speculators. Bendigo, at the north-east end of Lake In late 2000, developers suggested the Dunstan, has recently attracted a flurry of Canterbury’s development as a valley would emerge swiftly as one of New planting. On hot slopes, long the domain ofwinegrowing region has always been Zealand’s largest winegrowing regions. sheep and rabbits, a key stumbling block tojust ahead of Otago’s. That’s no surprise, Today there are only 130ha of bearing viticultural development was for many yearsgiven the key historical trend of a gradual vineyards – 0.4 per cent of the national total. the leasehold status of the land, but in thesouthwards shift of the nation’s vineyards. The Waitaki Valley is “not the easiest place 1990s freehold tenure became possible.Canterbury’s first vineyards were planted to grow grapes”, says Michelle Richardson, Today Bendigo has 400ha of vineyards,by French peasants who landed in 1840 at winemaker for Waitaki Braids, but the supplying not only the local producers suchAkaroa, on Banks Peninsula, carrying vine district’s best pinot noirs, rieslings and pinot as Quartz Reef, Mondillo, The Aurora Vineyardcuttings from which wine soon flowed for gris are strikingly intense and fresh-scented. and Prophet’s Rock, but some of the country’stheir domestic consumption. Nearly a quarter largest, North Island-based wineries.of a century later, Jean Desire Feraud - also Since 2006, Pasquale has releasedFrench - planted the first vineyard in Central impressive whites and reds from the Opposite: The Greystone vineyard at Waipara, in NorthOtago at Clyde, near Alexandra, in 1864. Hakataramea Valley, a northern lateral of the Canterbury, has swiftly built a glowing reputation for Waitaki Valley, in South Canterbury. Proof aromatic whites – riesling, pinot gris and gewürztraminer. When St Helena Pinot Noir 1982, of this remote inland valley’s ability to yieldgrown at Coutts Island, just north of CANTERBURY, WAIPARA & CENTRAL OTAGO TASTING STARTS PAGE 124. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 31

CHARDONNAY DRIVES HUNTER RESURGENCEAFTER A RUDDERLESS DECADE OR SO, THE HUNTER VALLEY HASREINVENTED ITSELF AS A MAJOR CHARDONNAY PRODUCER.FAST FORWARD 15 OR SO YEARS AND IT’S A RICK ALLENDIFFERENT STORY. THE OAKY STYLE - TYPICALOF THE TREND ACROSS AUSTRALIA - HAS BEEN M I K E D e I U L I I S remembers theREPLACED BY A LIGHTER, FRESHER WINE THATABSOLUTELY LOVES THE HUNTER SUNSHINE. evening well, although not the exact year – “late ‘90s it would have been”. It was32 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012 the annual black tie Hunter Valley Wine Awards dinner in Singleton and Len Evans stood up to speak. “We expected him to say the usual nice things about wine in the Hunter, but instead he ripped into us about the sorry state of our chardonnays,” De Iuliis recalled. “He told us we didn’t know what we were doing, that we might

as well rip up the vines. It was savage … “What Evans said got us winemakers, Nick Paterson is winemaker for Mistletoewe just sat there stunned.” particularly the younger guys, talking and one of the Hunter’s brightest lights. over a few beers at the pub,” said De He describes the ‘90s as “lost years”. “In He wouldn’t have known it then, but Iuliis, whose own chardonnays are right the ‘80s we were going for bigger, oakierEvans’ forthright views – expressed at the forefront of the Hunter resurgence. styles which was the trend – these dayswith a directness that even he would be “We had been to tutorials at his place and that seems very old fashioned, but at leastproud of - was the catalyst for a major tasted some wonderful white burgundies we were consistent with it. But in the ‘90sresurgence in Hunter chardonnay. How and chablis, so we knew how good they we were all over the place and didn’t reallygood are we talking? A Hunter wine is the could be. I guess in our hearts we knew have a Hunter style. Rudderless.”current NSW Wine of the Year, the 2011 he was right.”International Chardonnay Challenge Through all this confusion there were twowinner, and the Winestate Chardonnay And so the great chardonnay transformation stand-out wines -Tyrrell’s Vat 47, with its livelyof the Year for 2011 - that’s how good. began. Nothing formal or organised, just fruit and racy acidity, and the more elegant, some talented young winemakers having a poised style of Lake’s Folly. Scarborough, It’s the Mistletoe Reserve Chardonnay crack. What riled Evans, no doubt, was that too, was producing some good chardonnays2009, from the northern end of the lower while the Hunter was capable of producing in a buttery, malolactic style, and at theHunter. Don’t be fooled – this is no Hunter the occasional belter with terrific longevity, budget end, Allandale was producingfluke. These days there are a lot of good there was a lot of big, oaky, nondescript stuff smart, fruit driven wines at $14 that werechardonnays from the region breathing being produced. a huge seller. But that was pretty much it.down its neck. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 33



All in all, Hunter chardonnay was in a sorry information. We’re playing around with “It’s a market we built up over a lot ofstate. Fast forward 15 or so years and it’s a oak, natural yeasts, sulphur. It’s a work years and while we’ve refined the wine, it’sdifferent story. The oaky style - typical of the in progress but at least we know we’re still true to the original, richer, fuller style.trend across Australia - has been replaced heading in the right direction.” People know what they’re getting with it.by a lighter, fresher wine that absolutelyloves the Hunter sunshine. De Iuliis believes the friendly rivalry We brought in the chablis style because among winemakers in the Hunter has it’s a style we love to drink and we couldn’t Vat 47 and Lake’s Folly still lead the played a part, too. “I reckon it’s fair to say source enough fruit in the fuller style to meetcharge, but now there are some seriously we’re driving each other on,” he said. “I our overseas markets. It was also a greatgood alternatives. mean, if Nick Paterson is making the best counterpoint to our yellow label wines, wine in the state, then I’m thinking I can do so it made a lot of sense. I think Hunter Mistletoe, of course, is up there. Its award- it, too. We all are.” chardonnay is looking very strong acrosswinning 2009 Reserve is unusual for the the board right now, and the lighter style isHunter – slatey, grapefruit flavours and zingy It should be pointed out though, that despite the way to go, but there’s still a lot of peopleacidity - which probably has to do with the the unified push to a lighter style, the bigger out there who love the oakier style … andfact that the vineyard is about 15km north of chardonnays still have a loyal following we’re happy to continue making it for them.”the valley’s winemaking centre, through some in some quarters. Just ask Scarborough.dry country. “I’d been at Tyrrells and when I While it has its premium white label and a No discussion about Hunter chardonnaysaw this sandy site it reminded me very much flintier, chablis-style blue label, the bolder, would be complete without Bruce Tyrrell,of the Vat 47 site,” Paterson recalled. oakier yellow label is its bread and butter. who has been championing Hunter wines “I’d say 80 to 85 per cent of our sales are all his life, having a say. And it probably Poole’s Rock and De Iuliis are producing the yellow label,” Sally Scarborough said. won’t surprise to know that what he saysconsistently good, elegant wines with melon is straight from the hip.flavours and gentle oak. Scarboroughhas branched out into a range of three “There’s this thing about hot-weatherchardonnays, all good at what they’re chardonnay that I don’t understand,” he says.aiming to be - its premium white label with “Go to Burgundy in summer and you’re goingnew French oak and no malo has wonderful to see plenty of 100 degree (Fahrenheit)finesse and cellar potential; there’s a days. It gets pretty damned hot there, butleaner, chablis-style blue label which is no one says they can’t make a chardonnay.crisp and tight, and the richer, oakier goldlabel which still marches out the door. “The thing about early ripening is that your acid structure doesn’t change. You get a There’s no limit to other wineries that good, natural acid, which is what happenshave stepped up … Audrey Wilkinson, in the Hunter. It’s why over the years we’veWandin Valley, Meerea Park, Bimbadgen, had some chardonnays that have agedMargan, Krinklewood … tremendously well. “We now know what we want to be,” “Don’t get me wrong, I love some cool-Paterson explained. “Max Lake got it right climate chardonnays. Tumbarumba isat Lake’s Folly right from the start - lighter, producing some really smart wines, theleaner wines that are age worthy. No Penfolds 311 can be spectacular, reallymalo, pick early, low alcohol. Probably the good. But I want someone to show mebiggest thing these days is we understand the really good, long-living, cool-climatesite selection better. We want those sandier chardonnays. That’s the challenge.”based soils that have the minerals andnutrients we’re looking for, rather than the It’s taken a while, but it would seemheavier, red clay soils. that Hunter chardonnay, after years in the wilderness, has, well, come in from “There’s more attention to detail, too. the cold.Making sure your grapes don’t get sunburntin the Hunter sun is a small thing but it Above: Bruce Tyrrell. Below: Mike de Iuliis.makes such a difference. Opposite: Vineyards in the Hunter Valley. © James Pipino: Destination NSW. “And the other thing is we’re learning allthe time, refining what we’re doing, sharing HUNTER VALLEY TASTING STARTS PAGE 108. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 35

CATT ON THE PROWL IT’S ALL BUBBLES AND FIZZ FOR PADTHAWAY ESTATE,AS ITS NEW OWNER FORECASTS A SPARKLING FUTURE. JOY WALTERFANGD I D Y O U K N OW there is only But sparkling wine has been Padthaway company’s viticulturist for the past five years, Estate’s signature song long before that. The and national sales and marketing managerone sparkling wine house to be found in 50ha of vines were planted back in the’60s Nina Lonergan, who has spent most of hermainland Australia -in other words a winery by Hardys, in partnership with the Lawson working life involved with Padthaway. Asthat is solely dedicated to the production family, the Estate’s original owners, for their Nigel explained: “I told Troy and Nina that Iof sparkling wines? Well that’s what Nigel sparkling wine production. The narrow wanted to buy the place and asked them ifCatt, the new owner of Padthaway Estate strip of land that constitutes the Padthaway they wanted to come in with me. I knew theyin South Australia’s South East, is claiming. wine region virtually sits astride 63km of the had the same passion for the place that I hadAnd, according to Nigel, Padthaway Riddoch Highway that connects Keith and and we worked well together, so they did!”Estate is also the only winery that has a Naracoorte, and lies directly north of its morechampagne basket press and a vineyard famous neighbour - Coonawarra. I first met Nigel in 1987 when he wasspecifically set up with the champagne a keen young winemaker working withgrape clones of chardonnay, pinot noir and It is a flat landscape with only small Andrew Garrett in McLaren Vale. Backpinot meunier. If you know your Australian variations in elevation, is only 8km at its then he was already showing early signssparklings, you will certainly be familiar with widest and is home to over 4000ha of of “workaholism”. He had just developedthe winery’s flagship brand – Eliza, which vines. Although Padthaway only gained the Andrew Garrett NV sparking pinothas been in the market place for around 20 its Geographic Indication as a wine region that became a sales juggernaut for theyears and was created by the same Nigel 13 years ago, vines were first planted company, had squeezed in a couple ofCatt, the then winemaker. there by Karl Seppelt back in 1964, closely vintages overseas (one in Champagne), followed by Lindemans, Hardys and worked day and night building a winery Wynns. Padthaway isn’t your typical wine for Garrett while concurrently running his tourist area with just two wineries and two own Middleton Winery at Currency Creek. cellar doors but, because of its rich soil, good supply of underground water and a Nigel left Garretts in 1991 although he slightly warmer, more reliable climate than continued to consult there until ’93 by which Coonawarra, just about every major wine time he was also consultant winemaker company in Australia is represented there. to Padthaway Estate. In the meantime, in his spare time, he was turning an old 2012 is Nigel’s 20th year as consultant beach kiosk at Port Elliot on the Fleurieu winemaker to Padthaway Estate and it is also Peninsula into the region’s hugely popular the year he purchased the beautiful, historic Flying Fish Cafe. But by 2000 Nigel was property. The change of ownership was becoming increasingly uneasy about the described in the media as a management uncontrolled expansion of the Australian takeover because apart from Nigel there wine industry and decided it was time are two other partners - Troy Matthews, the to get out, selling his Middleton Winery.Above: Champagne basket press. © Spring Studio. Opposite: Nigel Catt in front of the Padthaway Estate homestead. © Newspix/News Ltd - photographer Dean Martin.36 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012



He is then reported to have stepped wineries worldwide. Over the years Nigel One batch of fruit can sometimes beback from the wine industry for the next has honed his sparkling winemaking skills pressed up to five times with the pressuredecade. Hardly! During the past 10 years through working many vintages alongside increasing gently each time round. “Youhe continued to consult to Padthaway, the masters in Champagne. These years can only do three press loads in a day,”became the Australian agent for French of experience are reflected in Padthaway says Nigel. “And at the end of the day youwine barrel maker Radoux (and still is), Estate’s range of sparklings. Although he certainly know you have done it. We onlyworked seven vintages overseas, mostly in says it’s the basket press that makes the have a small window of opportunity of aboutChampagne and Bordeaux, and became difference. “I cannot stress enough the two weeks to complete all the pressings –involved in the design and production of effect our champagne basket press makes it’s pretty intense and is the hottest time ofOcloc, a PVC clamp for repairing vineyard on the finished product,” Nigel says. The the year. The fruit comes in at about 10.8trellis posts. Ocloc has since been patented press was made in Australia based on a baume (sugar level) when we start andand is, as Nigel says, “Going great guns in 1960 design provided by the Krug French finishes off at about 11.8.”Australia and the United States”. Champagne House. It is a gentle, slow but incredibly labour intensive process; Nigel’s 14-year-old son Rupert calculated His interest in sparkling wine began with all pitch fork, muscles and sweat, which that in the 20 years his father has beenhis first winemaking job at Katnook Estate answered my question – why no other using that basket press about 470,000winery in Coonawarra, where he worked sparkling producer in Australia has one? tonnes of grapes have been lifted by hand!with Tony Jordan, a man who later became Three metres in diameter, the press has “No wonder my shoulders are wearingmanaging director and winemaker for Moet a capacity to process up to four tonnes of out,” says Nigel.Hennessy’s Domain Chandon, going on to hand picked, whole bunches of grapes.be consulting winemaker to the Chandon As in Champagne, Padthaway Estate only produces a vintage sparkling in good years,38 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

AS IN CHAMPAGNE, PADTHAWAY ESTATE ONLY PRODUCES A VINTAGE SPARKLING IN GOOD YEARS, WITH THE WINE KEPT ON TIRAGE FOR AT LEAST THREE TO FOUR YEARS TO GIVE IT LOADS OF LOVELY, YEASTY CHARACTERS.with the wine kept on tirage for at least three Nigel says. “I have tasted a lot of French having been distilled,” he says. “Hundredsto four years to give it loads of lovely, yeasty champagnes and I reckon if you stuck that of hectares of unwanted vines have beencharacters. Production of the company’s wine in a line up of champagnes you would removed in Australia. A number of wineflagship – the Eliza vintage Sparkling Pinot not pick it for an Aussie sparkling.” companies have toppled off the perch andChardonnay – is around 5000-6000 cases. we have most of the irrigated area beingIts 2008 vintage is currently on sale. The Nigel has also set up a 150,000 litre held back on production. With a growing2009 vintage was too hot to produce a wine solera for the production of a non vintage export market into Asia, I think there is theand there will be just enough material for sparkling pinot chardonnay - Izzie. “It is potential for the industry to rocket again.about 4000 cases from the 2010 vintage. a great product with plenty of complexity It will be interesting to see.”Again there will be nothing in 2011 and just for the price – it retails for around $15,”small amounts in 2012. he says. “We plan to build the brand up to There is a poster on a hotel wall advertising around 9000 cases in the next 12 months. Padthaway’s Izzie NV sparkling – it reads “Our Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Chardonnay We’ve got some material in that solera that’s “Izzie champane” (without the ‘g’) –is a spectacular wine,” says Nigel. 12 years old and we are adding 40-50,000 followed by wording in brackets “See youBut quantities are limited to somewhere litres to it every year.” in court Frenchy!” That should put the Nigelbetween 500 to 2000 cases. There is amongst the pigeons.an Eliza Sparkling Rose that is a blend The latest “House of Eliza” release isof pinot meunier and pinot noir and a its Spikey Norman apple and pear cider. Above: Padthaway Estate Homestead and vineyards.sparkling shiraz. The Eliza Late Tirage is only The label claims it has been made “… © Spring Studio.produced in exceptional years. “I just looked using our extensive sparkling winemakingat our 2002 Late Tirage -it is spectacular,” knowledge…using 100% Australian fruit”. LIMESTONE COAST TASTING STARTS PAGE 100. Padthaway Estate was the first residence in the region. It is a lovely collection of historic stone buildings with the shearing shed converted into the winery and the stables the cellar door. The beautiful 1882 two story mansion was, up until fairly recently, run as a boutique hotel. If Nigel can find the right people to do it, he wants it to once again offer luxury accommodation. Before the trio took over Padthaway Estate it had been for sale for four years - an indication of the state of the wine industry. “The industry has now been on its knees for 10 years,” says Nigel, but he believes there’s a light shining at the end of the tunnel and he doesn’t think it’s an oncoming train! “The United States is now short of fruit, as is Europe with their wine lake November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 39

Realmof theMountainGrapeTake an apres-skidetour for a tasteof Japanese wineDENIS GASTIN

HOKKAIDO GRAPEGROWERS ARE DELIBERATELY AND CREATIVELY LOOKING FOR BETTERWAYS TO GROW AND PROCESS WINE GRAPES.A GROWING LEGION Hokkaido, which had been devastated by On the positive side, Hokkaido is virtually one of Japan’s worst earthquakes in 1968. free of the typhoons and resulting humidityof Australians are heading to Hokkaido, that plague vineyards through the summerJapan's northernmost island, to pursue The dynamic mayor at the time, Kaneyasu ripening period on Japan’s main island,their skiing dreams, but what most of Marutani, thought he could revitalise the Honshu, where the longer-establishedthem don’t know about is the other vibrant region and encourage local farmers to wine regions are located. Hokkaido islocal tourist attraction - its unique and look forward positively by creating a new usually dry between August and October,adventurous wine industry. industry, based on a wild grape (of the creating a generally secure ripening and vitis amurensis species) growing naturally harvesting environment. In the 2010-11 ski season almost 70,000 in nearby mountains and known locally asAustralians, comprising just under half the yamabudo (literally, mountain grape). But the vineyards do have to cope with antotal number of international tourists, visited extremely cold winter, requiring vines to bethe Niseko ski resorts in western Hokkaido, Marutani encouraged local families to pick pruned very quickly after harvest and thenwithin a 90-minute road or rail journey from fruit from the wild vines and had it made laid down on the vineyard floors to minimise12 of Hokkaido’s 20 wineries. into a red wine. He dispatched some local damage from snow and the resulting people to Europe to look for grape varieties icecaps – that can accumulate to two metres Most of these wineries, in the Yoichi that might be able to cope with the intensely and extend through until February. On aand Sorachi wine regions, are open to cold conditions in Tokachi. He also set up more manageable level, vineyards also havethe public. Some are well-established, a local Institute to work through various to be protected from wandering wild animalssubstantial venues where people can not viticultural possibilities, including crossing the such as bears, deer and rabbits.only taste and buy wine but also enjoy food; yamabudo with European vitis vinifera vines.some others are little more than a vineyard Mostly, the growers have adoptedwith a shed, but they warmly welcome The initial experimentation beyond conventional vineyard practices - with veryvisitors. There are also liquor outlets and yamabudo in Tokachi, as well as in the other carefully hand-tended vines, disciplinedwine bars featuring local wines as well as pioneer enterprises that followed in western trellising, and laborious leaf pluckingrestaurants where visitors can enjoy some Hokkaido, was with grape varieties sourced throughout vintage to ensure optimalof the very special local food delicacies from Germany, Austria and Hungary, as exposure to sunlight and air flows. But somewith local wines. well as with American vitis labrusca vines, of the more recent growers are adopting a principally Niagara and Delaware, that were very unconventional approach, as in the two Hokkaido’s (and now Japan’s) biggest initially brought in to produce table grapes. vineyards operated by the Kondo family - onewinery, Hokkaido Wine, is in the western each in Yoichi and Sorachi. Their vineyardscoastal city of Otaru. It draws its grapes The two varieties that have consistently are full of grass and weeds, some deliberatelyfrom 20 of the 40 growers in the nearby produced the best wine results and planted to introduce diverse elements ofYoichi wine region (also home to the which have underpinned Hokkaido’s nature to the soil, because they believe thisfamous Nikka Whisky distillery) as well as wine reputation to date are the minor will help the vines be more naturally resilient,its own 120-hectare vineyard, the largest German white grape, kerner, and the less dependent on fertiliser and chemicalin Japan, at Tsurunuma, in the Sorachi Austrian red grape zweigeltrebe. Other sprays, better able to produce quality grapesregion. More than 20,000 visitors come introduced cool-climate varieties that consistently, and able to reflect the terroir inthrough the Otaru cellar door each year, have produced reasonable outcomes in which they survive - or, hopefully, thrive.and around 10,000 people attend the local the right hands include bacchus, Muller-wine festival each September. Thurgau and lemberger. Fortunately, the winemaking industry in Hokkaido is also on the innovative track. Hokkaido Wine began planting vines in Fortunately, the industry is not resting there Indeed, much of the innovation back in thethe mid-1970s and launched its first wines though. Hokkaido grapegrowers are not vineyard is the result of practices initiatedin 1979. But the industry in Hokkaido simply being farmers; they are deliberately or encouraged by the wineries themselves;actually kicked off a bit before this, in the and creatively looking for better ways tolate 1960s, in the Tokachi region of central grow and process wine grapes.Opposite: The slopes at Niseko Grand Hirafu Ski Area in Hokkaido, Japan. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 41

like Hokkaido Wine and Sapporo Wines, who blanc and merlot. Somewhat surprisingly, Some, like Soga-san, have come from otherare connecting winemaking and viticulture though, given the promise shown with parts of Japan specifically to pursue newby featuring a range of premium individual these varieties, chardonnay is not yet directions in wine they would have struggledvineyard wines with photos and details of the performing strongly. to do in other regions. These include Americangrapegrowers on the back label. winemaker Bruce Gutlove, who came here to Demonstrating, on a small scale, the do his own thing after almost two decades as To continue the varietal experimentation, creative theme that now characterises the source of wine inspiration at the amazingHokkaido Wine is working with over 50 winemaking in Hokkaido is Takahiko Soga, Coco Farm Winery on Honshu, which wasdifferent varieties in its vast Tsurunuma a member of one of Honshu’s prominent set up to provide employment and a purposevineyard and says it is now getting winemaking families who came to Hokkaido in life for intellectually handicapped people.encouraging results from some plantings, “to be different”. At Domaine Takahiko, His Nakazawa winery, in the Sorachi region,particularly with pinot blanc, gewurztraminer while he is waiting for his own pinot noir is set to open for the 2012 vintage. Leadingand merlot. But it is pinot noir that has been vines to mature, he has been sourcing fruit Yamanashi-based winery, Grace Wine, alsoproducing the most exciting results in from local growers and making tiny batches now has a very substantial operation inrecent years and now looks to be the best of experimental wines on a creative and Hokkaido that adds creative new dimensionsprospect to claim national and international intensely natural basis. to their wine range.attention for Hokkaido’s wines in the future. In doing this he has created a wine style Strong encouragement is being provided Interestingly, it is now known that there that would take anybody by surprise, by the local government, especially for thewere small plantings of pinot noir back in very pleasantly. It is his Yoichi Rose Sans smaller operators with long-term ambitions.the 1970s. But it was not until the Yamazaki Soufre - a gently sparkling pink wine, The mayor of Yoichi, Tamotsu Shima,Winery launched in the Sorachi region in without the addition of sulphur, fermented explains that to encourage viticulturiststhe early 2000s with a specific focus on with wild yeast, not filtered and fined and to progress from grapegrowing throughpinot noir that the potential of this variety still undergoing malolactic fermentation in to winemaking, the council will issuein Hokkaido became apparent. Yamazaki the bottle, hence the sparkle. It is sealed operating licences for production as low asled the way with modern and impressive with a crown seal, rather than a cork or a 2000 litres a year; the national requirementstyles. I was so impressed with the 2002 screwcap, at just 10 per cent alcohol. All that is a minimum 6000 litres a year. The councilPinot, their first release, that I listed it in the is surprising enough, but this must be the requires that anyone taking out such aTen Most Exciting or Unusual Finds in my very first wine from a blend of muller-thurgau, licence is appropriately qualified to makeannual Asia for Wine Report (2005 edition). zweigelt and pinot noir grapes. Another wine – credentials which they mostly obtain of his surprises is a Passetoutgraine style through work assignments with established Pinot noir is now quite widely planted based on zweigelt (rather than gamay, as local wineries, which are also facilitatingand is the focus of considerable ongoing in Burgundy), with about one third pinot noir. this trend by processing grapes for localvineyard and winery innovation, including growers and returning it as bottled winewith experimental plantings of different Most of today’s grapegrowers were under growers’ own labels, as a first stepclones. Given the dominance of Burgundy originally growing vegetables or other crops towards their own operations.reds as wine of choice for the majority of before switching to grapes. But there areJapanese drinkers, Hokkaido pinots have also some who have shifted from city-based So, Hokkaido can already excite visitorsgreat potential in this market. Beyond businesses to do special things in the wine with its wine scene, and it is ‘watch thispinot noir, the best hope seems to reside sector: like Nobuo Takizawa, who previously space’ for emerging and future surprises.with pinot blanc, pinot gris, sauvignon had a Sapporo-based coffee business.42 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012



LIKEFATHER,LIKESONMIKE ZEKULICHIT ALL BEGAN 24 YEARS AGOwhen the wine writing members of the WAWine Press Club decided to honour thedoyen of WA winemakers, Jack Mann.Since then, a memorial medal has beenpresented each year to a person consideredto have made a crucial contribution to thebetterment of the WA industry, no mattertheir area of involvement. The list now includes scientists,winemakers, viticulturists, marketers,media personalities, show judges andeducators. In his lifetime commitmentto wine, Dorham Mann (Jack’s son) hastouched all these bases in some way. Hehas boosted WA quality winemaking inhis work as an extension oenologist withthe Department of Agriculture helpingsmall producers, played a key role in thedevelopment of new southern areas of thestate and through his work as a leadingwinemaker with historic Sandalford Wines. The third generation 73-year-old wasindeed born into winemaking following hisgrandfather George, recruited from theBarossa’s Chateau Tanunda to WA, andhis Dad. Between them at Houghton, theyspent 62 vintages. As well as these strong industry bloodlines,Dorham has wine flowing in his veins from

DORHAM MANN – SWAN VALLEY AND WA WINE INDUSTRY STALWART- HAS RECEIVED A UNIQUE AWARD, THE MEDAL HONOURING HIS LATE FATHER.his mother’s side. His grandmother, We want table wines are lovely and fresh but so often are light inGriselda Sobels, was the grand-daughter flavour,” he said. As an offset, winemakersof Carl Sobels, known as the father of the that people can leave small amounts of residual sugar toBarossa wine industry. Carl had been an “bridge the gap”. Dorham says at showsexperienced winemaker in Champagne drink and enjoy, wines are assessed at room temperature.and arrived in South Australia from Dresden “Who drinks a white or sparkling wine stylein 1848 to become the Sobels half of Buring have half a bottle that is not cold? Chilled, flavoursome wines& Sobels at Quelltaler. are so much lovelier than something that and still be with it. maybe has shown up in a show at room So wine history abounds about the temperature,” he said. “Many elegant redsManns. Fourth generation Robert continues and 12 gold medals in an outstanding show are being overwhelmed by the pocketthe family tradition. He is in charge at Cape record, especially for a new area wine. battleships’ entries alongside – wines withMentelle, Margaret River. great depth of character, a lot of extraction At home, when thirsty and a long drink and high in alcohol, almost like dry ports. Meanwhile Dorham, who continues to was called for, the family always added The material is magnificent but in a linemake a family favourite (sparkling wine water to their wines – as long as they up, neighbouring young elegant wines arefrom cabernet at his Swan property), had the flavour to still provide palate often swamped and pushed aside. We wantfollowed his father into his passions of satisfaction. Today, Dorham would regard table wines that people can drink and enjoy,cricket and hunting, providing kangaroo, much of the fruit being picked as not ripe have half a bottle and still be with it.”rabbit and wild duck for the family table. enough – especially white varieties – and hence restricting flavour development. Dorham acknowledges the tough times the And his cup of industry joy was brimming wine industry has suffered in recent yearswith the medal win made at a prestigious “So many of the young whites we see today but like his father, says quality is the route toPerth city dinner at Friends restaurant. survival. “Australia is very fortunate to haveLater Dorham lauded fortified wines so many places from which it can producemade by his father such as the 1936 quality wines,” he said. “The production overliqueur frontignac, while cabernet was the supply has allowed for a bigger proportion offavourite of the table wines because of its grape quantities to come from regions wherefinesse on the finish – the only variety, in nature has provided the opportunity to growJack's words, “permitted in heaven”. the better quality – especially for wines for export markets.” For his own part, Dorham fondly recallsthe pioneering 1975 Mt Barker riesling hemade which went on to win nine trophies November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 45



MJaacnknJack Mann is the father figure of the West Australian wine industry. In his winemakingcareer he was responsible for the show successes of Houghton’s wines in the early1930s. Also, he reputedly gave Australia the term \"white burgundy,\" so often usednow to describe the big, soft, full bodied white wines. Jack Mann is certainly one ofthe personalities. He is a likeable, humorous, dogmatic, fiercely parochial, individualist.He could never be accused of shyness. In his own words, he tells Australia how thingsshould be done. He swipes at thin wines, Roseworthy, wine judges, irrigation, the WineResearch Institute, winemakers of the East, to mention but a few. Here’s one Mann’s view. Interview by Peter Simic reprinted from Winestate’s August issue 1978.When did you first start in the wine brandy maker. At that time Ferguson enough confidence to know the differenceindustry? from Houghton's wrote to him. Old man between the good and the make-believe.The end of January, 1922. My father was a Ferguson realized that he and his two But my father was a perfectionist. If he foundcompany's winemaker and he was taught sons were not naturally equipped to learn one bunch of grapes bird pecked or showingthe art by a French winemaker, the first or appreciate all there is to making decent signs of decay, out the whole lot, out.winemaker at Chateau Tanunda. Then wine and so father had to put the Houghton1895, Chateau Tanunda was the biggest cellars in shape. What I want to emphasize aboutwinery in the southern hemisphere. It How did you get into the wine business? Houghton's attainment, was its very widewas built by the Adelaide Wine Company Your father was in it, did that influence field. We didn't confine our wine stylewhose shareholders showed great you? preferences and I couldn't tell anyoneresource and courage to embark on No, because by my nature I spent my life, what is the best wine. The only one thatsuch a big enterprise. But the Frenchman when I wasn't at school, hunting. I was a was called perfect by the judges was awas chiefly a brandy maker rather than lone hunter and living as we did close to Frontignac ‘38. It is the best wine downa winemaker. He established a brandy the bush and having no near neighbours in the cellar. Before I could make liqueurreputation for Australia. as soon as I got home from school I would wines the grape had to be well developed go and travel the entire estate measuring towards raisins and the average baume Indeed when my father left, there were about a mile square at that time. That had to be 28. The highest baume grapes500,000 proof gallons of brandy in new occupied me. When I was very small I are processed to 35 but I reckon 28 isFrench oak. He worked at Chateau Tanunda chased the silver tails. Got many, many reasonable for a liqueur.only from 1895 to 1905. thousands, but not enough for me. Still too How can it possibly have that much sugar?He returned to Western Australia to many left. As the south west winemakers Well because of the benefits naturemanage Houghtons did he? find out to their costs today. So it was before endows. We have got the climate. I alwaysYes, 1910. But his first job over here was I was 16 that I started at the cellar. knew I was jolly lucky to be at Houghtonto make wines at Santa Rosa, the former Did you want to do that or was it and was very pleased with the results inname for Valencia. After a disagreement something you had to do? the form of wine. I don't know whetherwith the manager my father worked for a Well I think the family wished me to do that the owners, the Ferguson family werecouple more small wineries. Then the whole and really I started at that age, because that happy. Because at that time therefamily went back to South Australia. I was my father married late in life and in 1922 were few in Australia who appreciated theonly four years old. My father was about to he wasn't a young man by any means. It elite among wines. But you see why I wasstart with the Tolley's because they were took me a long time to understand all the pleased with Houghton, we are the onlyjust at the beginning of the brandy stage mysteries and it wasn't until 1930 that I had vineyard in the world that has produced aand my father was then Chateau Tanunda's complete range of first class wines.

That is a pretty strong statement really These \"adorned\" wines are not the kindisn’t it? of wines you would add water to though,Yes, but it brings with it truth. It has the great are they?advantage of being right. For every wine I No, we would treat them with great respectmade in the '30s I won first prize against and sip them, admiring every drop. Weall Australia in the Melbourne show and would never think of adding water. I'mno-one else can ever replace it. No-one talking about the prospect of makinghas ever made refined and elegant white wines that are flavourful and with sufficientwines right through the whole range to the extractives. Worthy and sound but notheaviest wines the world has ever known, refined or elegant. No place in the worldoff one vineyard. I am emphasizing that makes anything better. At Houghton weHoughton's vineyard comprises every never did have a vintage failure in mytype of soil that you can imagine. There time. We had he years when the vineswere no grapes imported from elsewhere were under stress and we didn't irrigate atto contribute in anyway whatsoever to any Houghton for the first hundred years. Thereprize I ever won for wine. was no water ever applied to any vine atHow did the white burgundy label arise? planting time or any other time. The averageThe judges at the Melbourne show said it rainfall here is 34.5 inches.was an example of white burgundy and You have retired since 1972 and stillthat probably motivated the Fergusons to remain as a consultant, but you havehaving the label printed. It was accepted and never been consulted.proved; and it proved reasonably successful. The idea was that I retired provided I gaveIt is the only Australian white burgundy no advice whatsoever, that is in black andaccepted by the House of Cornrnons. white, in my contract. When I was winemakerYou’ve been given the credit for coining and entire controller of the vineyard I had athat name. Did you? good vineyard fellow. I confess that he didI wouldn't say that, I made the wine. At least, exactly what I asked him to do. You seeI helped Nature create the wine. I don't take we required the foreman to nourish everymany credits. I say that Nature provided berry on every vine. It was necessary not toMan with the opportunity. In a climate with overload the wines. He understood that. Thesunshine as generous as we have in the people in Australia don't understand that, andSwan Valley it was natural to make big, the overloading of vines in Australia meanscomplete wines. It was against the rule or that Australian wines will never, never winlaws of Nature to make them delicate wines, high prizes generally from any part of thewhite or red, and besides I always knew world. No possibility whatsoever, while wethat the only reason wine was accepted as are producing grapes. In fact it is well knowna national drink in Mediterranean summers, anyway that if you produce more than foursimilar to ours, was because for five or six tonnes of grapes to an acre you cannot makethousand years people have been putting first class wine. My wine was made from vinesan equal volume of water with it. They were that were not over cropped and not irrigated.sensible. They drank six percent alcohol I want to emphasize the evil of irrigation.instead of twelve percent and if wine isever to be the national drink in Australia The chap that is going to save thethe vital custom of watering the wine must Australian wine industry's reputation andbe adopted. really restore it is the chap who can find a useful occupation for those who grow these It is a jolly shame that where the vine false wine grapes on the River Murray. Andflourishes to such an extent as in the that is true because they make two thirds ofsouthern part of Australia, wine is not the Australia's wine and that is the sad part of it.national drink. The way the trade is drifting, Do you think Western Australian winesI say drifting at the present time, there is no are the best in the world?possible hope of that ever being achieved. They could be. We could make two thirdsFor everyday drinking you want a wine that first class wine in Western Australia and nois simple and virtuous and worthy and you other part of Australia makes 10 percentleave the adorned wines for occasional use. first class wine and hardly that. But we

could be making it if everyone pulled their immediately. But I decided more flavour gallons from the eastern states. We haveweight. We could make two thirds first class would be available if left the juice and skins got to make another 2 million gallons beforewine. The Margaret River is the only place in contact for 24 hours and, of course, use we satisfy local demand.in the world where you have a hundred very sulphur control and that is why I made a How is the big future wine productiongood vintages or better in every century, bigger, more flavourful and more popular from Margaret River going to affectwhich is fairly consistent. But in latitude we wine. It was all from the chenin blanc the situation?have got to remember that we are 250 miles grape. I think on four different occasions Well, all the surpluses down there arenorth of Adelaide and we correspond to the Houghton sample of white burgundy readily saleable in Sydney and Melbourne.inner North Africa. We are on the same line secured the first prize as the best white We can't make enough of it because theas the Madiera Islands and we have also wine in Australia. No matter what grape standard is far better than the averagegot to remember, referring to latitude, that origin it was, we have prizes for light dry wine available.the fortieth parallel runs through the middle whites. In those days in the ’30s, light dry Do you feel then the West should notof Spain and also through the middle of reds were meant to be clarets and big dry worry about promoting its wine to theBass Straight. So I don't see why on the reds, burgundies. rest of Australia but just keep it forEastern side of Tasmania they shouldn't But that is all haywire now of course. the locals?make beautiful delicate table wine. Like What do you mean by that? No, I think we should provide the easternthe authorities of long ago, I say that the Well we find one examining the results of states with the opportunity of tasting firstgreatest table wines ever made in Australia the wine shows that better wines are often class wines.were made quite close to Melbourne. overlooked. It is as simple as that. AndHow does this coincide with what you wines sometimes do not conform to thesaid before, that in the West, where it class in which they are entered and yet theyis very hot, the world’s best wines are are accepted. It leaves much to be desired.made? Now you are saying the best In fact I advocated some time ago that wewines were made near Melbourne, which should import two or three accomplishedis very cold. judges to officiate throughout Australia.Well that is quite a different type of wine. Have you got a message for WesternI also remind you that within the realm of Australian winemakers?merit there is room for worlds of difference. Yes, the message for Western AustralianBut every wine has to conform to these winemakers is to use every possiblethree senses. I can't emphasize it too much. endeavour to make the best possibleThey have to be glowing with life, blessed wine because that is the only means ofwith refinement and adorned with flavour. their survival in view of the fact that theThat is the complete description so far as I massive eastern state wineries, will try tounderstand it of first class top quality wines. put them out of production. They dumpWhat do you say to people who say that their surpluses in our state and they havebig, ripe wines are coarse, extracted wines? done it with other manufactured goodsWell, I will answer that in a very civil too. Our adverse trade balance with theand straightforward way. The Houghton eastern states is 750,000 dollars a year. We1971 cabernet was judged one of the keep the Eastern states solvent. We builtgreatest cabernets in the world and it was the Sydney Harbour Bridge, we built the-astonishingly elegant. That was the judges’ Opera House, we repaired that big bridgereport. Now I have answered you. in Melbourne that that ship knocked downWhere was this and who were the judges? and we want to know what you want next.It was a wine tasting in England and you I implore all West Australian winemakerswill see it reported in one of the leading to concentrate on quality. Because thatEnglish journals. There were a couple of is our survival. It will make us not only theSouth Australian cabernets also. You get envy of the rest of Australia but we will winno flavour from any fruit until it is ripe. And respect from the entire world because weflavour is one of the essential constituents have got natural conditions that promoteof every worthy wine. That is one of the that achievement.essential constituents of every worthy Should they try and promote their wineswine. The usual procedure of making interstate or just...?white wine was to take the grapes to the Well, the situation is this, we make a millionpress and express the juice from the skins gallons in W.A. and we import two million © Terrance Emerson,

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