[Lonely Planet] Morocco

149 decor. Cushioned banquettes line the airy, Riad Ali Totmarroc MAISON D’HÔTE €€ central courtyard while rooms with desert (%0670 62 41 36; www.totmarroc.com; GPS coor- views are swathed in cool, white linens, dinates N 31°05.799, W 004º00.302; s/d incl half gauzy curtains and bluish-silver coverlets. board Dh400/600; paWs) A mod kasbah Best of all is the wide terrace that peters out provides instant relief from the white-hot in the sand and a sleek infinity pool with desert with 11 guest rooms in Majorelle dreamy dune views. blue and lemon arranged around a court- yard pool. Overnight dromedary trips are Marr akesh & Centr al Morocco ZMI niezfroVzraomlualgteaiyo&n the Tafi l a lt Kasbah Mohayut INN €€ led by an experienced, local official tour (%0666 03 91 85; www.mohayut.com; d/ste per person half board Dh350/450; s) Find your leader, and are inclusive of standard or luxury bivouac accommodation (per person niche in 24 sculpted-tadelakt guest rooms, Dh450/900), the latter boasting en-suite in the shade by a small pool, or on the roof overlooking the dunes. Canopied beds, Ber- chemical toilets. It’s conveniently located 600m from the centre of Merzouga where ber rugs and tataoui ceilings add charm, the bus terminates. although the finish is a bit rough in places; angle for a room with a fireplace. oAli & Sara’s Desert Maison Merzouga MAISON D’HÔTE €€ Palace CAMPGROUND €€€ (%0668 95 01 44; [email protected]; (%0535 57 72 99; www.merzouga-guesthouse. price per person incl full board Dh850) S Make com; GPS coordinates N 31º07.869, W 004º 01.034; per person incl half board Dh350-500; friends with Angel, Romeo and Casanova – no they aren’t local lads trying it on, but your as) This 16-room local family-run guest- trusty dromedaries – as you head out from house focuses on Berber hospitality and not just desert-themed decor. Lounge pool- Merzouga for a trip of a lifetime. Husband- and-wife team, Ali and Sara, have spent four side and enjoy the in-house hammam, or years crafting a personalised experience that join local holiday celebrations, bake bread in the kitchen and explore the palmeraie. gets rave reviews. Coming from a nomadic family of 11 brothers, Ali’s knowledge of the The best room is the cheapest tower room, desert is second to none, while Sara’s know- with dune views. how makes for a luxurious and organised camp, first-class cooking and beautifully 4 Merzouga decorated tents. To keep things small, intimate and hassle- Chez Julia GUESTHOUSE € free, the camp (8km east of Merzouga) ac- (%0535 57 31 82; www.chez-julia.com; s/d/ tr Dh200/400/600; a) Pure charm in the commodates only 12 people and the rates are fully inclusive, including non-alcoholic heart of Merzouga, behind the mosque: drinks. Reserve in advance. seven simply furnished rooms (with three shared bathrooms) in sun-washed colours with straw-textured pisé walls, antique 88 Information mantelpieces, and white-tiled shared bath- rooms, plus a furnished family apartment Merzouga has téléboutiques, a post office, sup- (Dh400 to Dh800). Ask about birdwatching ply kiosks, a mechanic, a couple of carpet shops tours, Saharan music concerts and fossil and Cyber Shop Les Amis (internet per hr Dh5; hunting. h 9am-10pm). Chez Youssef MAISON D’HÔTE € 88 Getting There & Away (%0535 57 89 04; www.chezyoussef.com; Mer- zouga village; s/d incl half board Dh255/510; aW) The N13 runs from Rissani to Merzouga, and Youssef’s simple pisé home offers four the piste from Erfoud will probably be sealed rooms arranged around a tiny courtyard in the next few years. That said, most of the shaded by a single palm. The oasis-inspired hotels are some distance from the road on decor is sparing, but beds are firm, linens pistes marked with signs. If you’re driving a are spotlessly clean and food home cooked. standard rental car, don’t head off-road as Your host can also help arrange good-value you’ll likely get stuck in the sand. Minibuses will camel treks and 4WD excursions (Dh400 to pick up or drop off in Hassi Labied – your hotel Dh500 per person). can make arrangements. Minivans run from Merzouga between 7.30am and 9.30am in the high season.

150 Marr akesh & Centr al Morocco TRSalioseesupazinni gto& ZEaagtionrga RISSANI TO ZAGORA THE END OF THE ROAD…¨ Rather than retracing the N10 back to Mar- OR NOT rakesh via Tinerhir and Ouarzazate, ad- venturous desert travellers opt for the N12, Instead of turning back at Taouz, you which traces the southern foothills of Jebel could take the piste by 4WD about one Saghro via Alnif, Tazzarine and N’Kob. The hour/30km southwest towards the road sees little traffic and few tourists and 2km stretch of dunes at Ouzina, a provides an interesting link through prime seldom-visited desert destination fossil-hunting territory to the Drâa Valley, known only to Sahara savants. Here where it emerges at Tansikht 63km north of you’ll find Kasbah Ouzina (%0668 98 Zagora and 98km south of Ouarzazate. 65 00; per person incl half board Dh270), a small, tidy auberge with mercifully Kasbah-studded N’Kob is the most at- sand-free beds. At Ouzina the piste mospheric place to stay in the area, and turns west towards the Drâa Valley, provides a good base for Jebel Saghro treks heading 45km to Mharje village, and exploration. where you can turn north onto a well- graded piste to Alnif, where it inter- Alnif ‫النيف‬ sects with the tarmac road to Zagora. Otherwise, you could follow a bumpy Much of Morocco’s Anti-Atlas Mountains piste from Taouz west towards the Drâa are built of Paleozoic rocks, dating back to Valley south of Zagora. Either way, the between 245 and 570 million years. When Taouz–Zagora journey takes at least these rocks were deposited, a shallow sea seven hours, equipped with plenty of covered the region. Trilobites scuttled along water, petrol, food, a spare tyre, a mo- the seafloor, and huge schools of Orthocer- bile phone and a Sahara-savvy guide. as, squid-like nautiloids with cone-shaped shells, swam above. When they died, their shells were preserved in the limy mud of the Grands taxis leave from Merzouga centre, Maidir basin located between Erfoud and opposite Dakar Restaurant, heading north to Alnif, awaiting resurrection as the polished Rissani (Dh13), and minibuses head south to curios, coffee tables and ornamental sinks Taouz (Dh15). that now cram Alnif’s roadside shops. Today more than 50,000 Moroccans earn Supratours offers a daily 8am service from their livelihoods in the fossil and mineral Merzouga to Marrakesh (Dh250, 12½ hours) and specimen mining and export business. It’s a 7pm bus to Fez (Dh180, 10½ hours). hard, labour-intensive work where men hand-work the fossil-rich seams and old Taouz ‫تاوز‬ mining spoil heaps with chisels, picks and Come to Taouz to spot mineral formations hoes. Prices depend on rarity, condition and possibly dinosaur bones where the desert swallows the road. Between Mer- and the quality of the workmanship in the preparation, and can range from tens of zouga and Taouz is the village of Khamlia, dirhams to tens of thousands of dirhams whose inhabitants are believed to be de- scended from escaped slaves. This frontier for museum-quality specimens. Ihmadi town is home to notable Gnaoua musicians, Trilobites Centre (%0666 22 15 93; trilo including Les Pigeons du Sable (Sand Pi- [email protected]; Alnif; h9am-5pm), on the main road, sells genuine fossils at fixed geons). Their music is available on CD in prices. The geologist owner also leads short Europe, and they occasionally perform lo- cally and at Er-Rachidia’s Festival du Desert trips to local fossil sites (Dh180 for the afternoon). (p142). Ask at their house (marked by a ban- ner) for details. 4 Sleeping & Eating A house beyond Taouz village, Casa Taouz, offers tea and occasionally food. If Few travellers spend the night in Alnif you have a 4WD, several places to stay in Kasbah Meteorites KASBAH €€ the desert are signposted from the road with (%0535 88 22 82; www.kasbahmeteorites.com; Al- GPS locations. nif; per person half board Dh300; aWs) A pleas- ant pitstop 13km west of Alnif. Comfortable

151 rooms with air-con and an oversized pool. might also spot a member of the local Aït Popular with tour groups. Atta warrior tribe striding into the N’Kob post office wearing a scimitar. La Gazelle du Sud MOROCCAN € (%0670 23 39 42; meals Dh35-60; h8am-7pm) Opposite the post office is Aït Atta Chas- A popular lunch stop, serving large meals sures, a cobbler banging out traditional of tajine, brochettes, and chicken and chips. walking sandals with leather, rope and used tyre treads – more comfortable than they Hotel Restaurant Bougafer CAFE € sound and quite stylish (Dh80 to DH120). Marr akesh & Centr al Morocco TRSalizsezespairnnii gnteo Z agora (%0535 78 38 09; Alnif; meals Dh30-60; h8am- Wander 500m down the side street with 10pm) Tajine, brochettes and rotisserie chick- signs for Kasbah Baha Baha and through a en and chips. Generous portions. Popular doorway bedecked with dented pots to find for lunch. N’Kob’s teapot mender, whose services are in demand during the Sunday souq. Tazzarine ‫تزارين‬ For trekkers, N’Kob provides a gateway The small desert town and oasis of Tazzarine for treks across Jebel Saghro (three days) is located in the heart of the Aït Atta tribal and is particularly well-located for shorter area, midway between Alnif and N’Kob. treks to the spectacular rock pinnacles of Despite many years of drought, the palm Bab n’Ali. Also possible is a spectacular off- groves and henna fields are pretty. Although road drive up over Tizi n’Tazazert (2283m) there is little to stop for in the small straggly and through the swirling rock formations town, a few kilometres southwest you’ll find of the Taggourt Plateau before dropping the prehistoric site of Aït Ouazik with its down to Ikniouln and the Dadès Valley. wonderful petroglyphs clearly depicting im- There’s a bureau des guides (%0667 48 75 ages of elephants, giraffes, buffalos and ante- 09) on the main road where you can arrange lopes. They date from about 5000 BC when local hikes to explore N’Kob’s kasbahs, rock the area had a savannah-like character. formations and palm oasis. Also south of Tazzarine is the small but picturesque dune field of Foum Tizza, an 4 Sleeping area of sandy sahel contrasting with blue- black rocks. The dunes are rarely visited and Auberge-Camping Ouadjou CAMPGROUND € offer travellers a chance to appreciate the (%0524 83 93 14; www.ouadjou.com; N’Kob; tent désert profond on a small scale. without/with half board Dh50/150, r incl half board French travel specialist Voyaguers du Dh250; ps) Welcome comforts for desert- Monde (ww.voyageursdumonde.fr) offer a dazed travellers: dark courtyard rooms luxurious camping experience at Camp No- with hot showers in en-suite bathrooms, or mades (%0524 43 48 08; www.camps-nomades. Berber tents in the garden. Guests can use the pool free, as can visitors ordering lunch (Dh90 to Dh120). It’s 1km west of N’Kob. com; Tazzarine; tent Dh1650-3900; hclosed Jan Kasbah Baha Baha KASBAH €€ & May-Sep). For those on a budget Camp- ing Serdrar (%0667 23 80 22; camping.ser (%0524 83 97 63; www.kasbahabaha.com; N’Kob; Berber tents s/d/tr Dh200/300/390, d without/ [email protected]; GPS coordinates N 30°43.318, W with bathroom Dh370/500; paWs) A gor- 005°28.547, Tazzarine; Berber tent per person half board Dh190, tent/campervan incl shower Dh60/60, geously restored kasbah with a vast Ber- ber botany garden, wood-fired bread oven, electricity Dh20) is a family-run palm farm set gourmet poolside meals (breakfast/dinner in a wonderful location 11km south of Taz- zarine and 6km off the main road in the Dh40/120), on-site ethnographic museum (Dh30) and 360-degree oasis views. Guests shadow of Jebel Rhart. Sleep in Berber tents are greeted like neighbours, and are even in- or camp beneath the palms and get Youssef to guide you to the fossil fields. vited to local marriages hosted at the kasbah in summer. Kasbah Imdoukal KASBAH €€ (%0524 83 97 98; www.kasbah-imdoukal.com; N’Kob ‫نيكو ب‬ N’Kob; d/tr/ste Dh700/900/1000; as) Berber One of Morocco’s best-kept secrets is the pride meets minimalist chic: chip-carved Berber oasis of N’Kob, where 45 mudbrick ksour make you stop and stare. On the main beds, Amazigh friezes atop tadelakt walls, square at the eastern edge of town, you oasis mule treks with poolside lounging after, and dinners of madfouna (local pizza; Dh120

152 to Dh190) by the restaurant fireplace with Marrakesh riads, Ksar Jenna offers light- private concerts. Most rooms have air-con. filled rooms in pastel blue, lemon yellow and the palest mauve decorated artfully with oKasbah Hôtel Aït Omar HOTEL €€€ carved furniture, Tazenakht carpets and (%0524 83 99 81; www.hotel-aitomar.de; N’Kob; designer-fabulous zellij and tadelakt bath- s/d incl breakfast Dh560/1000; paWs) Re- rooms. Dinner is served under the painted built to pisé perfection, Aït Omar’s crenel- dining-room ceiling, breakfasts amid the lated rooftop and descending terraces offer luxuriant flowering garden, and aperitifs or Marr akesh & Centr al Morocco GNR ie’ Kstostiabn gi tToheZraego&rAaway unparalleled views over N’Kob’s forest of espresso in the patio bar (it’s a Moroccan- kasbahs. Zigzagging staircases reveal pri- Italian venture). It's 2km west of N’Kob. vate patios with potted citrus trees, a domed, marble hammam and 11 individually deco- 88 Getting There & Away rated rooms linked by turquoise accents in zellij tiles, luxe sofa fabrics and mosaic mir- Local buses ply the road between Rissani and rors. No detail has been left to chance: even Zagora (six hours), via Alnif, Tazzarine and the bathroom plumbing and fittings have N’Kob. More reliable though are grands taxis been imported from Germany. between Rissani and Alnif (Dh25), Alnif and Tazzarine (Dh25), Alnif and Tinerhir (Dh25) and Ksar Jenna MAISON D’HÔTE €€€ Tazzarine and Ouarzazate (Dh70). (%0524 83 97 90; www.ksarjenna.com; d incl half board Dh700; aWs) Holding its own with CTM runs a 6.30am bus from Tazzarine to Mar- rakesh (Dh125, 7½ hours) via N’Kob (Dh15, 30 minutes) and Ouarzazate (Dh55, three hours).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Atlantic Coast ‫شاطىء الأطلنطي‬ Casablanca Why Go? (Dar el-Baïda)..............155 Rabat ...........................173 The Atlantic coast is one of Morocco’s most prosperous re- Salé .............................187 gions. The French called it ‘Maroc utile’ (useful Morocco), Moulay and it’s home to both the nation’s capital Rabat and the Bousselham ............... 190 economic hub of Casablanca. These cities’ Mauresque ar- Larache .......................192 chitecture, excellent restaurants, stylish cafes and liberal Lixus ........................... 194 attitudes are a far cry from traditional Morocco. Assilah ........................195 El-Jadida ....................200 It’s more than just these great modern cities though. Azemmour.................. 203 Miles of glorious sands, peppered with small fishing villages, Oualidia ......................204 historic ports and fortified towns, weave along the blustery Safi .............................205 coastline. Outside the towns, farmland rolls gently down to Essaouira ...................208 the sea and wetland reserves showcase rich birdlife. The region is bookended by Assilah and Essaouira, fish- ing ports both, with whitewashed medinas. There’s art and plenty of seafood, and a history written across the land- scape – from the times of the Phoenicians and Romans, to the Portuguese, Spanish and French – begging to be explored. Best Places When to Go Rainfall inches/mm to Eat 8/200 Casablanca ¨¨Outdoor fish grills (p214) ¨¨Restaurant du Port de °C/°F Temp Pêche (p166) 40/104 ¨¨Le Petit Beur – Dar Tajine (p182) 30/86 6/150 Best Places 20/68 4/100 to Stay 10/50 2/50 ¨¨Dar el-Manar (p202) ¨¨La Sultana (p204) 0/32 0 ¨¨Riad Oudaya (p181) JF MAM J J A S OND May–Jun Rabat’s Sep Hit the Dec–Mar Huge world-music beaches after the flocks of bird Mawazine fest in Moroccan tour- species descend May, Essaouira’s ists leave, while on wetlands and Gnaoua Festival the weather’s still lagoons. in June. good.

154 0 100 km SPAIN 0 60 miles Tangier Tangier-Boukhalef Airport Had Gharbia Assilah Dchar Souq Tnine de Ghanem Sidi el-Yamani Lixus Larache Oued Mellah Moulay Ksar el- Atl antic Coast C oas t H i ghl i gh t s Bousselham Kebir ATLANTIC Merdja Zerga Merdja OCEAN Lac de Sidi A1 Bargha Bourhaba Souk el-Arba du Rhurb Mehdiya Plage Kenitra Sidi- Plage des Nations Kacem Jardins Exotiques RabSaatlé Rabat-Salé Volubilis Airport El-JadAizdeammourCaMsIaonbhtelaarmnnAamctiaireMopdnooaVrhtl aTmemmaeSrdliamiaPBalneanegYeaShBidyeiat-StiadcihAAeïoMnPu2eed2lra-RchoomumcNha6An2i Meknès Khemisset Azrou (25km) Oued-Zem Sidi Bouzid Ez-Zhiliga Moulay Abdallah A7 Aïn-Leuh N1 Settat Khouribga Boulâouane El Borouj S-Smaïl Oualidia N9 Oued-Zem Khenifra S-Bennour Mechra Boujad Cap Beddouza Khemis Skhour Benâbbou Lalla Fatna Rehamna Kasba-Tadla Sidi Bouzid Youssoufia Fkih-Ban- El-Ksiba Safi Salah Bouguedra Benguérir Beni-Mellal Souira N7 Bin-el-Ouidane Kedima R204 A7 Oued Tensift Sidi-Bou-Othmane Azilal ATLAS HIGH Essaouira Diabat Demnate Sidi Chichaoua N8 Île de Kaouki R207 Ménara Marrakesh Mogador (15km) Airport Atlantic Coast Highlights 1 Sip tea at the Andalucian 4 Eat freshly grilled 7 Marvel at the water cistern Gardens in the Kasbah Les seafood (p214) in the salty in El-Jadida’s Cité Portugaise Oudaias (p177) in Rabat breeze of the Essaouira (p200) 2 Swim in the warm waters harbour 8 Imagine yourself as a of the Oualidia lagoon 5 Birdwatch on the lagoon at Roman at the ancient site of (p204), before gorging on Moulay Bousselham (p191) Lixus (p194) local oysters for lunch 6 Gaze at the murals in 9 Look up in Casablanca 3 Take the shiny new tram to Assilah’s medina (p195) at the glorious Mauresque Casablanca’s smart pavement buildings (p164) cafes (p168)

155 Casablanca (Dar el-Baïda) Armées Royales (Ave des FAR), Ave Moulay ‫الدارالبيضاء‬ Hassan I, Blvd Mohammed V and Blvd Hou- phouët Boigny. POP 4 MILLION Ave Hassan II leads to Pl Mohammed V, Many travellers stay in Casablanca just long easily recognised by its grand art deco ad- enough to change planes or catch a train, ministrative buildings. Quartiers Gauthier but the sprawling metropolis deserves more and Maarif, west and southwest of the Parc time. It may not be as exotic as other Moroc- de la Ligue Arabe, are where most of the ac- can cities, but it is the country’s economic tion is, with shops, bars and restaurants. capital, and it represents Morocco on the move: Casablanca is where the money is be- To the southeast is the Quartier Habous ing made, where the industry is, where art (also known as the nouvelle medina) and to galleries show the best contemporary art the west is Aïn Diab, the beachfront suburb Atl antic Coast C A S A B L A N C A and where fashion designers have a window home to upmarket hotels and nightclubs. on the world. The old pirate lair is looking towards the future, showing off its wealth Development in Casablanca today is so and achievements. exciting that you’d think the ghosts of Gen- The first French resident-general, Louis eral Lyautey and Henri Prost were working Hubert Gonzalve Lyautey hired French ar- on a new plan for the city, though this time chitect Henri Prost to redesign Casablanca with Moroccan pride rather than French in the early 20th century as the economic colonial might. The new tramway has eased centre of the new protectorate and, indeed, some of the pressures of Casablanca’s inter- as the jewel of the French colonies. His wide minable traffic, and improved the city centre boulevards and modern urban planning still environment enormously. Along the coastal survive, and mark the city as more European road in Anfa, huge new projects are being than Moroccan. However, Lyautey under- built. The new environmentally friendly, estimated the success of his own plans award-winning 200,000-sq-metre Morocco and the city grew far beyond his elaborate Mall, the biggest ‘destination mall’ in North schemes. By the end of WWII, Casablanca Africa, houses shops and offices as well as had a population of 700,000 and was sur- a large aquarium and a 400-seater IMAX rounded by heaving shanty towns. theatre. On the coast east of the Hassan II Casablancais are cosmopolitan, and are Mosque the Casablanca Marina remains a more open to Western ways than other few years from being completed, along with places in Morocco. This is reflected in their the under-refurbishment Casa Port train dress, and in the way men and women hang station. Casablanca today is showing a con- out together in restaurants, bars, beaches fident face to the rest of Morocco – and the and hip clubs. But Europe is not the only world. inspiration. More and more young Casa- blancais are realising that they come from a History country with a fascinating history. Casablanca is full of contradictions. It is The Phoenicians established a small trading home to wide boulevards, well-kept public post in the now-upmarket suburb of Anfa parks, fountains and striking colonial archi- from the 6th century BC onwards. In the 7th tecture, but is also fringed by large shanty century AD, Anfa became a regional capital towns and simmering social problems. under the Barghawata, a confederation of The bleak facades of the suburbs stand in Berber tribes. The Almohads destroyed it in sharp contrast to the Mauresque, art deco 1188, and 70 years later, the Merenids took and modernist gems of the city centre, and over. to Casablanca’s exceptional landmark, the enormous and incredibly ornate Hassan II In the early 15th century, the port became Mosque. a safe haven for pirates and racketeers. The medina – the oldest part of town – is Anfa pirates became such a serious threat tiny and sits in the north of the city close to later in the century that the Portuguese sent the port. To the south of the medina is Pl des 50 ships and 10,000 men to subdue them. Nations Unies, a large traffic junction that They left Anfa in a state of ruins. The local marks the heart of the city. The city’s main tribes, however, continued to terrorise the streets branch out from here: Ave des Forces trade routes, provoking a second attack by the Portuguese in 1515. Sixty years later the Portuguese arrived to stay, erecting fortifica- tions and renaming the port Casa Branca (White House).

Atl antic Coast SC iAgShAtBsL A N C A156 city’s main appeal is in strolling around its The Portuguese abandoned the colony neighbourhoods: the wonderful Mauresque architecture of the city centre, the peaceful in 1755 after a devastating earthquake de- Parc de la Ligue Arabe, the gentrified mar- stroyed Lisbon and severely damaged the ket district of the Quartier Habous and the walls of Casa Branca. Sultan Sidi Moham- beachfront views of the Corniche. Join the med ben Abdullah subsequently resettled Casablancais in enjoying the cosmopolitan and fortified the town, but it never regained pleasures of their city, go out for dinner, visit its former importance. By 1830 it had only an art gallery, shop till you drop in the Mo- around 600 inhabitants. rocco Mall in Anfa, try out the funky night- life or go roller skating outside the Hassan By the mid-1800s Europe was booming II Mosque. and turned to Morocco for increased sup- plies of grain and wool. The fertile plains 1 Downtown Casa around Casablanca were soon supplying European markets, and agents and traders It is often said that Casablanca has no sights flocked back to the city. Spanish merchants apart from the Hassan II Mosque, but the renamed the city Casablanca and by the be- French-built city centre is packed with ginning of the 20th century the French had grand colonial buildings, some of which are secured permission to build an artificial being restored. The best way to take it all in harbour. is by strolling in the area around the Marché Central (p166), or by doing the walking tour Increased trade brought prosperity to the (p164). The Marché Central quarter is slowly region, but the activities and influence of the being revived, driven on by the removal of Europeans also caused resentment. Violence traffic from Blvd Mohammed V to make way erupted in 1907 when Europeans desecrat- for Casablanca’s new trams. ed a Muslim cemetery. The pro-colonialist French jumped at the chance to send troops Place Mohammed V NEIGHBOURHOOD to quell the dispute; a French warship and a company of marines soon arrived and bom- (Map p160) This is where the architect Henri barded the town. By 1912 it was part of the Prost really went to town. The grand square new French protectorate. is surrounded by public buildings whose de- signs were later copied in buildings through- 1 Sights out Morocco, including the law courts, the splendid wilaya (old police headquarters, Casablanca is Morocco’s commercial hub now the governor’s office), the Bank al- and locals are far more interested in big Maghrib, the post office and the Ministry of international business than in tourism. Defence building. Many grand boulevards Tourists are relatively few in town and it’s lined with wonderful architecture go off this very much a workaday place with remark- ably few traditional tourist attractions. Apart from the grand Hassan II Mosque, the CASABLANCA IN… One Day As no visit to Casablanca is complete without marvelling at the seaside mosque, hop in a taxi first thing to the Hassan II Mosque and take in a tour. Then head to Sqala Restaurant in the ramparts for lunch in the garden. Browse the artisan shops in the Quartier Habous for Moroccan souvenirs, stopping for tea and cakes. Treat yourself to stunning views over the ocean by dining at one of the cliff-top restaurants by el-Hank lighthouse before joining the city’s pretty young things in the bars and clubs along Blvd de la Corniche. Two Days With another day to enjoy the city, start with breakfast at Patisserie Bennis Habous in the beautiful Zevaco building. Work it off by following our walking tour (p164), taking in the best of Casa’s Mauresque heritage. After lunch, take the tram out to Aïn Diab to check out the trendy boutiques or take in an IMAX movie at Morocco Mall before a hammam and massage at Gauthier Bain Turc. Restaurant du Port de Pêche is just the place for local fish before a nightcap at Blue Parrot.

157 HASSAN II MOSQUE Atl antic Coast SC iAgShAtBsL A N C A Built by the late King Hassan II to commemorate his 60th birthday, this enormous mosque (Map p158; guided tours adult/child/student Dh120/30/60; htours 9am, 10am, 11am & 2pm Sat-Thu, 9am, 10am & 2pm Fri) was funded by public subscription. It was completed in 1993 and provides Casablanca with an important landmark. A new Islamic media centre and library (h8am-6pm Mon-Fri) F can be found in the grounds. Designed by French architect Michel Pinseau the mosque rises above the ocean on a rocky outcrop reclaimed from the sea, echoing the verse from the Quran that states that God’s throne was built upon the water. The 210m-high minaret, the tallest minaret in the world, is topped by a spectacular laser beam that shines towards Mecca. It is the world’s third-largest mosque, accommodating 25,000 worshippers inside, and a further 80,000 in the courtyards and squares around it. Believers can enjoy praying on a cen- trally heated floor, seeing the Atlantic washing the rocks underneath the glass floor in the basement and feel the sunlight through the retractable roof. Above all, the vast size and elaborate decoration of the prayer hall is most striking. Large enough to house Paris’ Notre Dame or Rome’s St Peter’s, it is blanketed in astonish- ing woodcarving, zellij (tilework) and stucco moulding. A team of over 6000 master crafts- people was assembled to work on the mosque, delicately carving intricate patterns and designs in cedar from the Middle Atlas, marble from Agadir and granite from Tafraoute. To see the interior visitors must be ‘decently and respectfully dressed’ and, once inside, will be asked to remove their shoes. Hour-long tours are conducted in French, English, German and Spanish, and take in the prayer hall, the ablutions rooms and the hammam. square. To the south is the Parc de la Ligue Friday mosque is the Jemaa ash-Chleuh Arabe, designed in 1918 with a majestic along Rue Jemaa ash-Chleuh Arsalane. palm-tree-lined promenade. On the north side of the medina, facing Villa des Arts GALLERY the port, you’ll see the last remains of Casa- blanca’s 18th-century fortifications. Known (Map p163; %0522 29 50 87; www.fondationona. as the sqala, the bastion offers panoramic ma; 30 Blvd Brahim Roudani; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat) views over the sea. F Located in a converted art deco build- ing with a pleasant garden near the Parc de la Ligue Arabe, this gorgeous 1930s gallery 1 Maarif holds exhibitions of contemporary Moroc- can and international art. Southwest of the Parc de la Ligue Arabe is the city’s business centre and the place to 1 Ancienne Médina head for international designer brands. Casablanca’s small and dilapidated medina Jewish Museum MUSEUM gives an idea of just how petite the city was before the French embarked on their mas- (%0522 99 49 40; www.casajewishmuseum.com; sive expansion program. Most of the build- 81 Rue Chasseur Jules Gros, Quartier Oasis; admis- ings date from the 19th century, so it lacks sion Dh25; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sun) the medieval character of other medinas. South of Maarif in the suburb of Oasis is Plans are afoot to restore many buildings. this museum housed in a beautiful villa sur- rounded by lush gardens. It’s the only Jewish Enter the medina from the northeast museum in the Islamic world. It relates the corner of the Pl des Nations Unies near the history of the once-thriving Jewish commu- restored clock tower (Map p160), and note nity (two thirds of whom live in Casablanca) the dilapidated Excelsior Hotel opposite it. and its influence on modern Moroccan soci- Narrow lanes to the east are piled high with ety, with more than 1500 historical artefacts cheap shoes, high-sheen underwear and including documents, traditional clothing, household goods. The rest of the medina re- ceremonial items and a vast collection of mains largely residential. The old city’s main photographs. Oasis is a 15-minute taxi ride (Dh30) from the city centre.

158 Casablanca ABCD Hassan II ß# 1 BlvdSidiMohammed ATLANTIC Mosque Blvd Sour Jdid OCEAN 1 D ben Abdallah w w 666ú# Blvd de Tiznit Atl antic Coast SCiAgShAtBsL A N C A Hotel Bellerive (1km); Blvd Ziraoui Phare el-Hank (2km); Aïn Diab (3km); 2 Blvd de la Corniche Blvd Tahar el-A laoui Sqala 7 ú#Blvd des Al (3km); Anfa (4km) mo ha 5 ú# ÿ# ò# Rue de MEDINA des Goulmina Blvd Maréchal 3 Blvd de Bordeaux 3 Fayolle BlvBdoiHgonuyphouët Place des Nations 64 Blvd Ziraoui ¤# Unies Blvd Moulay Youssef Blvd de Paris Hassan I Ave Moulay Place Nations Blvd Rachidi Unies Blvd d’Anfa 000000000000000000000000000000¤#A000000000vMPeloa0000000Lhcaea0000000lmlamYeadcoVut QUARTIER 6666GAUTHIER Blvd Mohammed Blvd Moulay Youssef See Central Casablanca Map (p160) Parc de la Ligue Arabe Mers 5 Sultan Roundabout 666Zerktouni 8 ý# Blvd Brahim Roudani Ave Hassan II Abe Mers Sultan 666 MAARIF D See Casablanca Quartier Gauthier Map (p163) 6 Dar Itrit (1.5km); Mohammed V International #– (30km) A 6B C D rows of streets and shop stalls. Built by the 1 Quartier Habous French in the 1930s, it was a unique experi- ment: a medina built to Western standards (Nouvelle Medina) to accommodate the first rural exodus in the 1920s. As such, it blends Moroccan archi- The Quartier Habous, or nouvelle medina, tecture with French ideals, epitomised by a is Morocco-lite – an idealised, almost Disney version of a traditional medina, with neat

159 e# 0 500 m Casablanca 0 0.25 miles E F æ Top Sights 1 Hassan II Mosque ................................. A1 Port 1 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 2 Hammam Ziani...................................... E5 ÿ Sleeping 3 Youth Hostel..........................................D3 2 ú Eating Atl antic Coast CS iAgShAtBsL A N C A #ú 4 4 Ostréa.....................................................E2 5 Restaurant du Port de Pêche..............D2 Casa-Port 3 6 Rick's Cafe .............................................C2 £# Train Station 7 Sqala Restaurant ..................................D2 AbBdlvedrrMahomulaanye û Drinking & Nightlife Blue Parrot.....................................(see 6) Ave des Forces Armées Royales (Ave des FAR) Sqala Café Maure ......................... (see 7) RAuvBeelvHAdollMua¤#mhoabhCMnaeeaemnnrEctAmrhlaFbéleeeddteoVllaauhki Rue Mohammed Smiha D4 ý Entertainment SRtruaesdbeourg 8 Cinéma Lynx..........................................D5 Casa-Voyageurs £# (1.8km) and has a decent selection of bazaars, craft Rue Karachi shops, bakeries and cafes. BlvdAvReaLhaalllaeYla-McoeustkinVi Pidcleatoclaiere Rue Khourigba The Royal Palace (closed to the public) is Rue Barathon 5 to the north of the district, while to the south is the old Mahakma du Pasha (courts & re- 2 Blvd Mohammed VI ception hall; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat) F, Ø# Blvd Lahcen Ou Ider which has more than 60 rooms decorated with sculpted wooden ceilings, stucco-work, Rue Hadj Amar RiBfflivd de la Résistance 6 wrought-iron railings and earthenware floors. It’s not always open to visitors. DQuartier The Quartier Habous is located about 1km Habous (1km) southeast of town. Take bus 81 from Blvd de EF Paris, across from the main post office. mosque and a strip of grassy lawn, reminis- 1 Aïn Diab & Anfa cent of European village churches. These affluent suburbs on the Atlantic However sanitised it may feel, if you have beachfront, west of the centre, are home to some last-minute souvenir shopping to do, the happening Blvd de la Corniche. Lined Habous is more peaceful than most souqs with beach clubs, upmarket hotels, restau- rants, bars and clubs, it is the city’s enter- tainment hub and the place for young, chic professionals to see and be seen. However, in between the busy beach clubs along the promenade, the view is spoiled by abandoned pleasure grounds and concrete swimming pools filled with construction rubbish. Nevertheless, the beach remains extremely popular. The easiest way to find space on the sand is to visit one of the beach clubs. Two of the better ones, Miami Plage (%0522 79 71 33; per day Dh80-150) and Tahiti (per day Dh80-150) have beach umbrellas, a pool, restaurant and bar.

160 Central Casablanca e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles ABCD Casa-Port 20 Train Station ú# .# BZlvadidMouoHulmayadAbderrahmane Rue Anfa BRlvudeHSioudiphBoeulëytoBuotigny Rue 1 Rue de Fès 2 1MEDINA 662Medina # 1 11 # 34 æ# 40# ÿ# Armées Forces Royales (Ave des FAR) Ave des Place des 6 ˜# 35 # Nations ORruaeibEil-Jilali 10 ÿ# Unies ÿ# 41 #ì Atl antic Coast ACcA tSiAvBi tL iAeNsC A British 3 ›# 38 Cemetery .# 26 Place 24 ý# RMuaexFG#euliexd&j # # Rue raoui Nations ¤# 4 30 û#22ï# ò# ABlllavh1d#ú8bM¤#eonhMC1aA6emabnú#rdmctrheeaú#éldlleaVh17›# ð# 23 31 Unies Place #ý du 16 #ì þ# 25 NovemelA-bvFreeetHoouuamk4ia2ne# 27 el-RQuoeryMohammed ˜# 39 Rue IbRnuBeatCohuatoauia Rue Abderrahman Sah Rue Tata Blvd Seghir36 6666660000000000000430000000000000M0000000000000o0000000000000ham0000000000000mP0000000000000eladc0000000000000Ve ¤#00000000000000000000000000000000Mò#0000000000000000ohæ#2P000000000000amla›#3000000000000cm7e000000000000eBdlvVRdudeú#ü#eInP1d25ar1ri3si#ss2ú#2ð#L9aÿ#3h53ÿ#r7izì#Riÿ#FH9aarchhaatdRue Prince Moulay AbdallahRue Abdel Karim Diouriÿ# Place du 3 ÿ# 19 RRuueReTuaMheoaNhraaStBmeioebmnlltoaieuldel13 20 Août 4 ÿ# 12 ÿ# 14 Ave Hassan II B1l1vdJadnuvier AveLallaYacout Rue de Strasbourg 66 í#28 8 AB C D The Casablanca tramway goes to Aïn public hammam, it may be better to leave Diab, which is the furthest stop on the line. your valuables at your hotel. The ride takes around 30 minutes from Pl Mohammed V. A taxi from the centre costs Gauthier Bain Turc HAMMAM around Dh30 (Dh70 at night). (Map p163; %0661 14 59 26; 25 Rue Jean Jaures; The new Dubai-esque Morocco Mall Mon-Fri Dh50, Sat & Sun Dh60; h7am-10pm) (p170) in Anfa is some 4km west of the city You’ll find a steam room, jacuzzi and gym centre. It sports a large aquarium and three at this ultra-modern hammam, where a floors of shops plus a food court with inter- scrub costs Dh15 and a 30-minute massage national cuisines, an IMAX cinema and – for Dh100. evening entertainment – a 250m-long danc- ing fountain and light show. Spa 5 Mondes HAMMAM 2 Activities (%0522 99 66 08; www.cinqmondes.com/spa-cinq -mondes.html; 18 Rue Ibrahim En-Nakhai, Maarif; h10am-8pm) For a traditional hammam, a Hammam Ziani HAMMAM Japanese bath, a Balinese massage or an ay- (Map p158; %0522 31 96 95; 59 Rue Abou Rakrak; urvedic treatment, head for this trendy spa. admission Dh45; h7am-10pm) Sparkling clean and decidedly modern, this is an upmarket C Courses hammam offering the traditional steam room and gommage (scrub) for Dh50, and Casablanca has a multitude of language massage, as well as a jacuzzi and gym. It’s off schools, almost all of which have French Rue Verdin. As is the case when visiting any classes.

161 Central Casablanca 22 Petit Poucet..............................................C2 Atl antic Coast TC oAuSrAsB L A N C A ý Entertainment æ Sights 1 Clock Tower..............................................B1 23 Cinéma Rialto...........................................C3 2 Place Mohammed V ............................... A4 24 Complex Culturel Sidi Belyout...............D2 þ Shopping Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 25 Exposition Nationale d'Artisanat...........B2 3 École Assimil-Formation........................ C2 ï Information 4 Olive Branch Tours ................................. B2 26 BMCE ........................................................A2 27 Crédit du Maroc.......................................C2 ÿ Sleeping 5 Hôtel Astrid.............................................. B4 EuroNet............................................(see 15) 6 Hotel de Foucauld................................... B2 28 French Consulate ....................................B4 7 Hôtel de Paris .......................................... B3 29 [email protected] ......................................................B3 8 Hôtel du Palais ........................................ B4 30 LGnet.........................................................C2 9 Hôtel Guynemer...................................... B3 31 Syndicat d'Initiative.................................C2 32 Voyages Schwartz...................................B4 10 Hôtel Hyatt Regency .............................. A2 33 Wafa Cash ................................................B3 11 Hôtel les Saisons......................................C1 12 Hôtel Maamoura ..................................... C3 13 Hôtel Mon Rêve....................................... C3 14 Hôtel Transatlantique ............................ C3 ú Eating ï Transport 15 Ifrane ........................................................ B3 34 Avis............................................................ C1 16 La Bodéga................................................ D2 35 Budget ......................................................C2 17 La Brasserie la Bavaroise ...................... D2 36 Bus 10 & 36 to Gare Routière 18 Marché Central ....................................... C2 19 Restaurant al-Mounia............................. B4 Ouled Ziane ...........................................D3 20 Taverne du Dauphin ................................C1 37 Bus 81 to Nouvelle Medina.....................B3 38 CTM Bus Station .....................................D2 û Drinking & Nightlife 39 Grands Taxis to Rabat & Fez .................D2 21 Café Alba.................................................. B3 40 National .................................................... B1 Hôtel Transatlantique ................... (see 14) 41 Petits Taxis...............................................C2 42 President Car...........................................B3 Institut Français LANGUAGE rock, metal and fusion music, with bands from Morocco, France, the USA and the UK. (Map p163; %0522 77 98 70; www.ambafrance-ma. org; 121-123 Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni; h9am- 2.30pm Tue-Sat) Only runs semester-long Jazzablanca JAZZ French-language courses. Also offers a good (http://jazzablanca.com; hApr) A five-day jazz festival. library, films, lectures, exhibitions and other events. 4 Sleeping École Assimil-Formation LANGUAGE Most of Casablanca’s hotels are in the cen- tre of town with the exception of the youth (Map p160; %0522 31 25 67; 71 Rue Allah ben Abdel- hostel, which is in the medina, and the lah) Offers private tuition in Arabic. upmarket hotels along the Blvd de la Cor- niche. Hotels fill up fast during the sum- T Tours mer months, particularly in August, so it’s a good idea to make reservations in advance. Olive Branch Tours TOUR Casablanca’s budget hotels are pretty ba- (Map p160; %0522 22 03 54; www.olivebranch- sic. The medina hotels are invariably grotty tours.com; 35 Rue el-Oraïbi Jilali) This outfit of- and overpriced and don’t offer good value fers a Grand Tour of Casablanca, which compared with their ville-nouvelle counter- takes in the main squares in the city centre, parts. Casablanca has a good selection of the medina and Quartier Habous, as well as midrange accommodation scattered around a stroll along the Corniche. the city centre. You’ll also find some nice al- ternatives with ocean views and easy access z Festivals to the beach along Blvd de la Corniche. Casa- blanca has a glut of top-end hotels, with all L’Boulevard Festival of Casablanca MUSIC the major international chains represented (www.boulevard.ma; hJun) Three-day urban- music festival that features hip hop, electro,

162 in town. Most are along Ave des FAR, with a The spotless and spacious rooms may lack few others along Blvd de la Corniche. period detail, but they are very quiet for this central location, tastefully decorated in mut- oHôtel Guynemer HOTEL € ed colours and have neat bathrooms. The (Map p160; %0522 27 57 64; http://guynemerho- staff are friendly and helpful. tel.net; 2 Rue Mohammed Belloul; s/d Dh350/480; aW) The family-run Guynemer, in a gor- geous Mauresque building, is always reliable. Hôtel du Palais HOTEL € The 29 well-appointed rooms are tastefully (Map p160; %0522 27 61 91; 68 Rue Farhat Hachad; decked out in cheerful colours. Flat-screen s/d without bathroom Dh90/130, d/tr with bath- TVs, wi-fi access and firm, comfortable beds room Dh140/240) At the lower end of the make rooms a steal at these rates and the price range, this basic hotel is a fair choice service is good, but note that some bath- for those stretching their budgets, offering rooms are quite tiny. There’s an airport clean, spacious rooms with large windows. Atl antic Coast CS lAeSeApBiLnAgN C A pick-up service (Dh400) and city tours. The It’s fairly spartan and can be noisy. A hot hotel also rents out two contemporary, fully shower costs Dh10. equipped flats on the same street, which are ideal for longer stays and for families. Hotel de Foucauld HOTEL € (Map p160; %0522 22 26 66; 52 Rue el-Oraïbi Ji- lali; s/d without bathroom Dh100/150, s/d/tr with bathroom Dh150/180/220) Rooms in this sim- Hôtel Astrid HOTEL € ple hotel in the centre of town don’t live up (Map p160; %0522 27 78 03; hotelastrid@hotmail. to the decoration in reception, but they’re com; 12 Rue 6 Novembre; s/d Dh315/368; W) much bigger than average and have a cer- Tucked away on a quiet street south of the tain faded charm. Some rooms have en-suite centre, Astrid offers the most elusive element bathrooms. Streetside rooms can be noisy. of Casa’s budget hotels – a good night’s sleep. There’s little traffic noise and the spacious, well-kept rooms are all en suite, with TV, Hôtel Mon Rêve HOTEL € (Map p160; %0522 41 14 39; 7 Rue Chaouia; s/d/ telephone and frilly decor. There’s a friendly tr Dh180/250/300, without bathroom Dh110/150/ cafe downstairs and wi-fi in the lobby. 200) This old-style hotel has been a favourite with budget travellers for years. It is conven- Hôtel de Paris HOTEL € iently located near the Central Market but (Map p160; %0522 27 42 75; fax 0522 29 80 69; cnr Rues Ech-Cherif Amziane & Prince Moulay Abdallah; can be quite noisy, and the rooms painted in blue are spartan but clean. Choose a high- s/d/tr Dh350/450/550; W) This small hotel er room to avoid the noise. Note that Rue has spacious rooms that are clean and rela- tively quiet. Rooms are decorated with dark Chaouia is sometimes referred to by its old name, Rue Colbert. wood and equipped with good mattresses, satellite TV and decent bathrooms. There’s a swish cafe downstairs on the pleasant pe- East-West Hotel HOTEL €€ (Map p163; %0522 20 02 10; www.eastwest-hotel. destrian street (great for breakfasts), and the com; 10 Ave Hassan Souktani, cnr Rue Washington, hotel is in a good central location. Quartier Gauthier; s/d incl breakfast Dh450/600; W) Readers recommend this bright and Youth Hostel HOSTEL € cheerful three-star hotel. All rooms have (Map p158; %0522 22 05 51; lesauberges@menara. clean bathrooms with modern fittings, free ma; 6 Pl Ahmed el-Bidaoui; s/d/tr Dh80/150/190, tr internet and a safe, and the hotel boasts a with bathroom Dh200; h8-10am & noon-midnight; good restaurant and an Irish pub. Located i) Clustered around a bright central lounge in the residential but upcoming Quartier area, the rooms here are basic but well kept Gauthier, this choice is very quiet. and quiet, with high ceilings and a linger- ing smell of damp in winter. The staff are friendly and the hostel is on a leafy square. Hotel Ibis Casa Voyageurs HOTEL €€ (%0522 40 19 84; www.ibishotel.com; Pl de la Gare; There are good hot showers. No IYHF or r Dh1100; aW) Conveniently located both YHA cards are required. next door to Casa Voyageurs train station and on the new tram line, the Ibis is a strong Hôtel Maamoura HOTEL € midrange accommodation choice. As part of (Map p160; %0522 45 29 67; www.hotelmaamoura. com; 59 Rue Ibn Batouta; s/d/ste Dh440/580/900; a chain, it’s reliable if unsurprising, with modern comfy rooms, a decent breakfast aWs) A favourite with readers, this mod- and good service. ern hotel offers excellent value for money.

163 Casablanca Quartier Gauthier e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles ABCD Bus 9 to Blvd Ziraoui Aïn Diab ›# Place Oued al- Makhazine QUARTIER AvBelvMd#údoeu10lPaayriHs assan I GAUTHIER í# British 1 #ú 9HoRuuceinTeaha Consulate US Consulate Belgian Consulate í# 1 Blvd d’Anfa í# RueSAabhrdaeorruiahman 11 #û 666662 Atl antic Coast CS lAeSeApBiLnAgN C A6 ÿ#00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000¤#00000000002 R7uÿ#e Jeaî#n Jaures Blvd Moulay Youssef Blvd Rachidi Polyclinique Souktani Atlas í# Spanish Consulate A Stadium 66666æ#1 ve Hassan Ø# Nousseir 4 Rue Moussa ben 3 æ# Brahim Roudani 3 6666Parcde 3 la Ligue 12 #þ ArabeBlvd MAARIF 2 â# Market 4 Ave Hassan II 6666Blvd MohammedZerktoun5i # ð#Gig@net # 4 8 #ú AB C D 6Casablanca Quartier Gauthier æ Sights ú Eating 1 Parc de la Ligue Arabe ........................... D3 8 Chez Flavio ...............................................C4 2 Villa des Arts............................................ B3 9 La Maison du Gourmet ...........................A2 3 Yasmina Amusement Park.................... C3 10 Le Rouget de l'Isle ................................... D1 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours û Drinking & Nightlife 4 Gauthier Bain Turc ................................. B2 11 Le Trica ..................................................... B1 5 Institut Français ...................................... C4 þ Shopping ÿ Sleeping 12 Twin Center..............................................A3 6 Doge Hotel ............................................... C2 7 East-West Hotel ...................................... B2 Hôtel Transatlantique HOTEL €€ bedrooms. Avoid the 1st floor, as it gets (Map p160; %0522 29 45 51; www.transatcasa. the brunt of noise from the popular and com; 79 Rue Chaouia; s/d/tr Dh800/960/1100; very rowdy piano bar and nightclub. There aW) Set in one of Casa’s architectural are several newly decorated suites. Staff gems, the decor at this 1922 hotel is all a are keen to tell you that Édith Piaf was a bit over the top. Popular with tour groups, resident and Telly Savalas of Kojak fame it has a snack bar, a shady outdoor seat- sucked his lollipop here. ing area and comfortable, but fairly plain,

164 Hôtel Bellerive HOTEL €€ (%0522 79 75 04; http://bellerive.terredumaroc. net; 38 Blvd de La Corniche, Aïn Diab; s/d/tr incl 22City Walk breakfast Dh570/720/950; as) The lovely ter- Central Casablanca race, pool and garden make up for the dated, standard rooms at this small, family-run ho- START CATHÉDRALE DU SACRÉ COEUR, tel on the Corniche. Many rooms have ocean views though, and it’s cheaper than most BLVD RACHIDI along this waterfront strip. There’s plenty of space and a playground, which makes it END PL 16 NOVEMBRE a good bet if you’re travelling with children. LENGTH 3KM, 50 MINUTES Atl antic Coast CS lAeSeApBiLnAgN C A Dar Itrit B&B €€ (%0522 36 02 58; www.daritrit.ma; 9 Rue Restinga; Central Casablanca has a rich architec- s/d without bathroom Dh870/980; W) There are tural heritage. The style of colonial archi- only three double rooms in this charming tecture found here in abundance is known B&B set in a residential area, each decorated as Mauresque and came into being during in a different Moroccan style – Marrakesh, General Lyautey’s term as governor of Berber and Mogador. A delicious breakfast Morocco between 1912 and 1924. is served in a bright living room or on the terrace, in this slightly out-of-the-centre The style blended aspects of traditional location. The hospitality is warm, but note Moroccan design such as Islamic arches, that bathrooms are shared. columns and tilework with the influences of Parisian art deco, characterised by oDoge Hotel HOTEL €€€ ornate wrought-iron balconies, carved (Map p163; %0522 26 97 46; www.hotelledoge.com; facades and friezes, and rounded exterior 9 Rue du Docteur Veyre; s/d from Dh2300/3050; corners. aW) Art deco is the order of the day at this stylish boutique hotel – even the rooms Wherever you go in downtown Casa, are named after Jazz Age luminaries from look up! The humblest block of apartments Man Ray to F Scott Fitzgerald. The rooms can sport ornate decorative details, even if are sumptuously decorated with a high de- the building itself is neglected. gree of finishing. In the evenings, relax in the library or piano bar before dinner in the This walking tour takes in the best Mau- restaurant, or sooth the travel days away at resque buildings, and some other Casa the splendid spa. treasures. Hôtel Hyatt Regency HOTEL €€€ Start on the northwest edge of the Parc (Map p160; %0522 43 12 34; www.casablanca.hyatt. de la Ligue Arabe, with the imposing white com; Pl des Nations Unies; r Dh2200; paWs) The best and the most central of all the five- 1Cathédrale du Sacré Coeur, a grace- star hotels, the Hyatt is a favourite meeting place for Casablancais for a meal in one of ful cathedral designed by Paul Tornon and the many restaurants, or a drink at the bar. built in 1930. This is a good example of the The spacious rooms are equipped with mod- style, with some neo-Gothic influence. ern amenities and decorated in an elegant contemporary style, and have magnificent From here, walk two blocks east to Pl views of Casablanca, the old medina, the Mohammed V, which is the grand centre- ocean and the Hassan II Mosque. The hotel piece of the French building scheme. The also has a gym, spa and nightclub. vast square, beloved by Casablancais who congregate here in the evenings and on Hôtel les Saisons HOTEL €€€ weekends, is surrounded by impressive (Map p160; %0522 49 09 01; www.hotellessais administrative buildings, most designed by onsmaroc.ma; 19 Rue el-Oraïbi Jilali; s/d Dh1100/ Robert Marrast and Henri Prost. The 1930 1400; aW) This small hotel offers extremely comfortable, well-appointed and quiet 2wilaya (old police headquarters, now rooms with all the usual facilities: a safe, minibar, satellite TV and direct-dial phone. governor’s office) dominates the square’s It’s a more personal place than the larger south side and is topped by a modernist clock tower. The nearby 3palais de justice (law courts) dates from 1925. The huge main door and entrance were inspired by the Persian iwan, a vaulted hall that opens into the central court of the medersa (theologi- cal college) of a mosque. Stroll across the grand square and ad- mire the 1918 4main post office (p170), fronted by arches and stone columns and

165 Place des e# 0 200 m Nations 0 0.1 miles Unies 66Ave Moulay Hassan I Rue Mohammed Place Nations '.# el-QorMy#1o4h#1a3Bm#l1vm2ded Unies¤# Ave Houmane #15 Marché Placeui Fetouaki Centrale du 16 €el- ¤# Novembre #16 Rue Abderrahman Sahrao V #11 É Rue Tata RuAehelm-eGdhali É Rue IRbuneBCahtaouotuaiaÉ 66&~ 666666#1 É Atl antic Coast (S Dlaere peiln-gB a ï da) #5 É #7 #8 RKuaeriAmbDdeiol uri Rue Tahar Sebti#6 00000000000Mo00000000000hÉa00000000000mm00000000000Pela00000000000dcVe00000000000000¤#M00000000000000#o4#h000000000000002Paml00000000000acm00000000000eed00000000000B#V3lvd de Paris Blvd Rachidi Ave Mers Sultan #9 #10 Ave Lalla Yacout Parc Ave Hassan II de la 666Ligue Arabe 666decorated with bold mosaics. More in the out restoration work, but the authorities style of traditional Moroccan architecture is won’t allow such an important building to be the 5Banque al-Maghrib, on Blvd de Paris. torn down. Fronted with decorative stonework, it was the Turn left into Blvd Mohammed V and look last building constructed on the square. out for an array of wonderful facades along From here, walk east on Rue Indriss Lahri- the street’s south side. The cCentral zi, where impressive facades line both sides Market post office (p170), with its delicate of the street, the best being 6La Princière motifs, and the dLe Matin/Maroc Soir Salon de Thé, with its huge stone crown on building, with its classic style, are two of the the roofline. Turn right into Rue Mohammed most impressive. There are plans to restore Belloul to see 7Hôtel Guynemer (p162) this entire area. with its restored art deco panelling, and al- At the end of this block, on the corner of most opposite, the 8Hotel Oued Dahab. Rue Mohammed el-Qory, is ePetit Poucet Then walk a block east and turn right down (p169) bar and pavement cafe, once fre- Rue Tahar Sebti, which is lined with colonial quented by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, Édith buildings that are now apartments and Piaf and Albert Camus. It’s worth looking offices. inside at the original bar counter. Turn left Turn left into Rue Chaouia and look for here into Rue Mohammed el-Qory to find the 9Hôtel Transatlantique (p163), which fCinéma Rialto (p170). Continue south to dates from 1922 and has been beautifully the junction with Ave Houmane el-Fetouaki restored. Just around the corner, another and turn right to reach gPl 16 Novembre, restored gem, the aHotel Volubilis, has a home to art deco buildings. great facade. For information on Casablanca’s archi- Turn left up Rue Ibn Batouta and continue tectural heritage, see Casablanca: Colonial to the corner of Blvd Mohammed V. On your Myths and Architectural Ventures by Jean- right is the derelict shell of the bHôtel Louis Cohen and Monique Eleb, and Casa- Lincoln, a Mauresque masterpiece built in blanca – Portrait d’une Ville by JM Zurfluh. 1916. Sadly its owner cannot afford to carry

166 cooked to perfection. The fish and tangy international hotels and offers good value paella are some of the best in town. The for money and an excellent location. The decor is very 1970s with paper tablecloths. staff speak English. Service is professional and swift. Book ahead as this place is very popular with Casablan- 5 Eating cais from all walks of life. Casablanca has a great selection of res- La Bodéga TAPAS €€ taurants, and you can eat anything from (Map p160; %0522 54 18 42; 129 Rue Allah ben excellent tajine to French pâté and Thai Abdellah; mains Dh120; hMon-Sat noon-4pm & dumplings. However, as elsewhere along the 7pm-1am, 7pm-1am Sun) Hip, happening and ocean, fresh fish and seafood are the local loved by a mixed-aged group of Casablanca’s speciality and it’s worth checking out the finest, La Bodéga is essentially a tapas bar restaurants at the port or on the way to AïnAtl antic Coast EC aAtSiAnBgL A N C A with good (meaty) mains, where the music Diab for a culinary treat. (everything from salsa to Arabic pop) is loud and the rioja (Spanish wine) flows freely. It’s Rue Chaouia, located opposite the a fun place with a lively atmosphere and a Marché Central, is the best place for a quick packed dance floor after 10pm. eat, with a line of rotisseries, stalls and res- taurants serving roast chicken, brochettes Sqala Restaurant MOROCCAN €€ and sandwiches (Dh20 to Dh30). It’s open (Map p158; %0522 26 09 60; Blvd des Almohades; until about 2am. 5 Downtown Casa mains Dh90-160; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun, daily summer) Nestled in the ochre walls of the Ifrane CAFE € sqala, an 18th-century fortified bastion (Map p160; cnr Rues Tata & Mouftakar; mains Dh40- 65; h10am-10pm) Almost always crowded north of the centre, this lovely restaurant is a tranquil escape from the city. The cafe and spilling customers onto the streetside has a rustic interior and a delightful garden seating, this friendly cafe serves a choice of grills and brochettes at bargain prices. It’s a surrounded by flower-draped trellises. No alcohol is served, but there’s a good selec- relaxed place with a mixed clientele and of- tion of teas and fresh juices. It’s a lovely spot fers hassle-free eating for women. for a Moroccan breakfast or a selection of salads for lunch. Tajines are a speciality and Patisserie Bennis Habous PATISSERIE € the menu features plenty of fish, as well as a (%0522 30 30 25; 2 Rue Fkih el-Gabbas; pastries from Dh10; h9am-8pm) One of the city’s most selection of meat brochettes. famous and traditional patisseries, this place Taverne du Dauphin FRENCH €€ in the Quartier Habous is Casa’s best spot for traditional Moroccan treats, including some (Map p160; %0522 22 12 00; 115 Blvd Houphouët Boigny; mains Dh70-90, set menu Dh110; hnoon- of the best cornes de gazelle (gazelle horns; 11pm Mon-Sat) A Casablanca institution, this sweet almond pastries) in town, as well as made-to-order pastillas. traditional Provençal restaurant and bar has been serving up fruits de mer (seafood) since it opened in 1958. On first glance it’s Marché Central MARKET € a humble, family-run place, but one taste of (Map p160; meals from Dh40; h9am-6pm) The Marché Central is a great place to go for the succulent grilled fish, fried calamari and crevettes royales (king prawns) will leave lunch – busy tables from half a dozen restau- you smitten. Alcohol is served. rants thrum with diners and waiters, serving up huge platters of fish, grilled vegetables, bread, salads and seafood soup. Cheap, fill- Ostréa SEAFOOD €€ (Map p158; %0522 44 13 90; Le Port de Pêche; ing and perfect for people-watching. mains Dh150; hlunch & dinner) Across the road oRestaurant du from Restaurant du Port de Pêche inside the port is this more upmarket seafood restau- Port de Pêche SEAFOOD €€ rant specialising in Oualidia oysters, fresh (Map p158; %0522 31 85 61; Le Port de Pêche; mains Dh150; hlunch & dinner) This authentic lobster and other shellfish. Wash it all down with a glass of wine or beer. and rustic seafood restaurant in the middle of the fishing harbour is packed to the gills at lunch and dinner as happy diners tuck Restaurant al-Mounia MOROCCAN €€ (Map p160; %0522 22 26 69; 95 Rue Prince Moulay into fish freshly whipped from the sea and Abdallah; mains Dh150; hdinner) Eat the best

167 Moroccan food in Casablanca’s centre at this fresh fish. At lunchtime, the Obama family’s delightful traditional restaurant where you chilli con carne is on offer. The pianist, Is- can choose to sit in the Moroccan salon el- sam, will play ‘As Time Goes By’, and there’s egantly decorated with zellij (tilework) and a Sunday jam session and the inevitable sou- sculpted wood, or under the pepper tree in venir T-shirts. You can watch the film again the cool, leafy garden. There’s a selection of and again on the 1st floor. salads worthy of any vegetarian restaurant and an array of exotic delicacies such as pi- La Brasserie la Bavaroise FRENCH €€€ geon pastilla (rich, savoury pie) and sweet (Map p160; %0522 31 17 60; 129 Rue Allah ben tomato tajine. Abdellah; mains Dh150-200; hdinner) Locals and expats like to hang out in this upmar- ket brasserie behind the Marché Central, Chez Flavio ITALIAN €€ partly for the French cuisine, partly to see (Map p163; %0522 29 45 29; 3 Blvd Mohamed Ab- dou; pizzas Dh80, mains Dh120; hlunch & dinner) and be seen. It offers a good selection of fish Atl antic Coast EC aAtSiAnBgL A N C A One of the most popular Italian restaurants, as well as French classics such as veal, steak Chez Flavio makes for a welcome break from and pheasant cooked to perfection. Meat tajine if you’ve been in Morocco for some is grilled on a wood fire. It has a pleasant time. These are definitely some of the best atmosphere and a friendly welcome. Every pizzas in town. month the menu features specialities from a different region of France. The same owners oLe Rouget de l’Isle FRENCH €€€ also run La Bodéga next door. (Map p163; %0522 29 47 40; 16 Rue Rouget de l’Isle, off Blvd Moulay Hassan I; mains Dh200; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) One of Casa’s La Maison du Gourmet FRENCH, MOROCCAN €€€ top eateries, Le Rouget is set in a glorious (Map p163; %0522 48 48 46; Rue Taha Houcine, 1930s villa and has a wonderful garden red- Maarif; meals Dh400-500; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner olent with night-blooming jasmine. Sleek, Mon-Sat) This upmarket gourmet restau- stylish and charming, it’s renowned for its rant serves an inventive menu of the finest simple but delicious and light French food. of French and Moroccan cuisine; it’s run The owner’s contemporary artworks grace by a couple, he French, she Moroccan, both the walls. The impeccable food is reasonably trained by Paul Bocuse. Specialities include priced; book in advance. a heavenly pastilla with confit of duck and foie gras. The elegant surroundings, excel- Rick’s Cafe MEDITERRANEAN €€€ lent service and exceptional food make this (Map p158; %0522 27 42 07; www.rickscafe.ma; the perfect address for a special occasion. 248 Blvd Sour Jdid; mains Dh160; hlunch & din- Book ahead. ner) Cashing in on the Hollywood classic 5 Aïn Diab & Anfa Casablanca, the bar, lounge and restaurant is run by a former American diplomat. It’s The best of this neighbourhood’s restaurants not remotely authentic, but great fun never- are clustered together on a cliff top over- theless. The menu features excellent French looking the crashing Atlantic waves near el- and Moroccan specialities, concentrating on Hank Lighthouse. CASABLANCA FOR CHILDREN Casablanca is a big, grimy city and your best bet when travelling with children is to re- treat from the noise and traffic of the city centre. The beaches and beach clubs in Aïn Diab are the places to go. Along with swimming pools, slides and playgrounds, they have various sports courts and countless facilities. Staying at a hotel along the Blvd de la Corniche means you’ll probably have your own swimming pool and won’t have too far to walk for entertainment. Continuing west from Aïn Diab, the upmarket suburb of Anfa is home to the enormous Morocco Mall, which has a giant aquarium and an IMAX theatre in addition to its shops. Back in town, Casa’s biggest open space is the Parc de la Ligue Arabe (Map p163). It’s a good place for games and walks, and has a choice of small cafes and the Yasmina amusement park (Map p163; admission Dh150; h10am-7pm), with plenty of small-scale rides and fun-fair atmosphere.

Atl antic Coast DC ArSi nAkBiLnAgN&C AN i gh t l i fe168 THE SHANTY TOWNS In May 2003, 13 suicide bombers blew themselves up at public places in Casablanca, killing themselves and 32 other people. They belonged to Salafia Jihadia, a radical Islamic group whose founding members trained in Afghanistan. The bombers were all young Moroccan men living in Casablanca’s worst slums, less than half an hour from the city centre. In 2007, 24 Islamists were arrested for plotting another wave of bombings after their leader blew himself up at an internet cafe. Many came from the same slums. Most Casablancais openly condemn the killings, and claim their city is the most tolerant in the country. But a quarter – perhaps even a third – of the city’s population lives in shanty towns, where living conditions are harsh: makeshift houses are made of cardboard and plastic, with no running water, sewage system or electricity, no schools, no work and no hope. Many youngsters feel they have nothing to lose. After the bombings, many charities were set up to improve the conditions, and the government has become more aware of the problems. The Housing Ministry has announced plans to abolish all slums in Casablanca, and several slums have been de- stroyed, but new shanties seem to spring up faster than the authorities can knock them down. Tens of thousands of houses are under construction, but slum residents complain that the new housing is too expensive and too small for extended families. There has been a serious improvement, but many feel it’s not enough, and unless the government addresses the underlying problems there will be no improvement in conditions. It is hoped this will happen before anger and frustration boil over into support for violent alternatives. Frédéric Cassel Haute ¨ linen and bone china. The menu and service is very French, bordering on stuffy, but the Patisserie PATISSERIE €€ food is divine. (8 Blvd Moulay Rachid, Anfa; pastries from Dh12; h9am-10pm) Be seen at the latest trendy cafe in upmarket Anfa serving mouth-watering A Ma Bretagne SEAFOOD, FRENCH €€€ (%0522 36 21 12; Sidi Abderrahman, Blvd de la breakfasts and light meals, along with ice Corniche; meals Dh500; hdinner) Locally pro- cream and cakes that display mind-boggling artistry. moted as the best restaurant in Africa, this self-consciously cool establishment is all modern lines and superb food. Although Hediard PATISSERIE €€ (%0522 79 72 32; Résidence Jardin d’Anfa, Blvd Lido Route Côterie, Aïn Diab; meals & sandwiches seafood tops the bill here, you can opt for some other French delicacies, cooked by the Dh50-90; h9am-10pm) Very slick, and popu- maître cuisinier (master chef) André Hal- lar with the young and beautiful, this cafe bert. It’s 5km out of town. in Aïn Diab serves a range of sumptuous cakes as well as light meals and deli-style 6 Drinking & Nightlife sandwiches. Although there are plenty of classic French- La Fibule MOROCCAN, MEDITERRANEAN €€€ style drinking dens in the centre of town, (%0522 36 06 41; Blvd de la Corniche, Phare el- they are pretty much a male preserve and Hank; meals Dh300-500; hlunch & dinner) The are usually intimidating for women. Casa- subtle lighting, warm colours and elegant blanca’s bars can be pretty rough around the decor give La Fibule an inviting atmosphere. edges, and they generally attract a male-only The food here is a mixture of well-prepared clientele (plus prostitutes). In general, the Moroccan and Lebanese, served at low ta- bars in the larger hotels are more refined bles overlooking the ocean through large places to drink, especially for women. windows. The beachfront suburb of Aïn Diab is the La Mer SEAFOOD €€€ place for late-night drinking and dancing (%0522 36 33 15; Blvd de la Corniche, Phare el- in Casa. However, hanging out with Casa- Hank; meals Dh400; hlunch & dinner) This sea- blanca’s beautiful people for a night on the food restaurant is a refined place with white town doesn’t come cheap. Expect to pay at least Dh150 to get in and as much again for

169 drinks. Heavy-set bouncers guard the doors Balcon 33 CLUB and practise tough crowd control – if you don’t look the part, you won’t get in. Many (33 Blvd de la Corniche) A Fellini-esque, cabaret- of these clubs cater for well-heeled Middle style bar-cum-restaurant. Easterners (a Saudi prince has a palace on the Corniche), with Egyptian or Lebanese Le Carré Rouge CLUB performers. (Hotel Villa Blanca, Blvd de la Corniche; h11.30pm- Men are always expected to pay for 4am) An ultramodern pop sensation. drinks, and women shouldn’t expect hassle- free drinking – but some of the more female- VIP Club CLUB friendly venues are listed here. (Rue des Dunes) Gay-friendly. Le Village CLUB Café Alba CAFE (11 Blvd de la Corniche) Also has a slightly gay- friendly atmosphere. (Map p160; %0522 22 71 54; 59-61 Rue Indriss Lahri- Atl antic Coast CE nA tSeArBtLaAiNnCmAen t zi) High ceilings, swish, modern furniture, Armstrong Legend CLUB subtle lighting and a hint of elegant colonial (41 Blvd de la Corniche) Incredibly packed and one of the few places with funky live music. times mark this cafe out from the more tradi- tional smoky joints around town. It’s hassle- free downtime for women and a great place Hôtel Transatlantique CLUB for watching Casa’s up-and-coming. (Map p160; www.transatcasa.com; 79 Rue Chaouia) The seedy nightclub here is good for late- night couleur locale as the belly dancers and Sqala Café Maure CAFE singers provoke the mostly male locals into (Map p158; Blvd des Almohades; hnoon-3pm & throwing money at them. 7-11pm Mon, 8am-11pm Tue-Sun) Another excep- tion to the men-only rule, this lovely cafe is set behind the sqala in the medina wall. The Sky 28 CLUB flower-filled garden is quiet all afternoon (Kenzi Tower Hotel, Twin Centre, Maarif) Serves cocktails to the sounds of more middle-of- and makes a great place for coffee or deli- the-road live music. cious juices. 3 Entertainment Blue Parrot BAR (Map p158; 248 Blvd Sour Jdid; h6.30am-11.30pm) Theatre Upstairs at Rick’s Cafe, this Caribbean-style Complex Culturel Sidi Belyout THEATRE bar is partially open-air with wonderful (Map p160; 28 Rue Léon L’Africain; hperformances views over the port. It’s a great place for a 9pm) This 200-seat theatre hosts plays (usu- drink (and comfortable for women) and also ally in Arabic) and the occasional music re- serves a simple menu of barbecued fish and cital or dance performance. grills (mains Dh75 to Dh160). Les Abattoirs de ¨ Petit Poucet BAR Casablanca PERFORMING ARTS (Map p160; cnr Blvd Mohammed V & Rue Moham- (%0537 73 26 50; www.abattoirs-casablanca.net; med el-Qory) A die-hard relic of 1920s France, this strictly male-only bar was where Saint- Quartier Hay Mohammadi) The old city abattoirs built in 1922 have been transformed into an Exupéry, the French author and aviator, impressive cultural centre dubbed the Cul- used to spend time between mail flights ture Factory. Near Casa Voyageurs railway across the Sahara. Today, the bar is low-key station, the centre hosts exhibitions and per- but is an authentic slice of long-ago Casa life. formances, plays, concerts and workshops in Look out for the old-time advertising signs. anything from mask-making to rollerblad- ing, including some for children. Le Trica BAR (Map p163; %0522 22 07 06; 5 Rue el-Moutanabi, Cinemas Quartier Gauthier; hclosed lunch Sat & Sun) This Most English-language films are dubbed in bar-lounge, set over two levels with brick French, unless it specifically mentions ‘ver- walls and 1960s furniture, is the place to sion originale’. feel the beat of the new Morocco. The at- mosphere is hot and trendy at night, stirred Megarama CINEMA by the techno beat and the flow of beer and (%0522 79 88 88; www.megarama.info; Blvd de la Corniche; afternoon/evening shows Dh40/50) The mojitos (rum cocktails), but things are a lot plushest cinema in town, this huge complex calmer at lunch.

170 in Aïn Diab has four comfortable theatres 88 Information that are usually packed. EMERGENCY Fire/Ambulance (%15; h24hr) Cinéma Lynx CINEMA Police (%19; h24hr) Service d’Aide Médicale Urgente (SAMU; (Map p158; %0522 22 02 29; 150 Ave Mers Sul- %0522 25 25 25; h24hr) Private ambulance tan; screen/balcony/club Dh30/40/50) A good service. option if you don’t want to trek out to Aïn Diab, this spacious and comfortable cinema INTERNET ACCESS has an excellent sound system. EuroNet (Map p160; %0522 26 59 21; 51 Rue Tata; per hr Dh10; h8.30am-11pm) Internet. Cinéma Rialto CINEMA [email protected] (Map p160; %0522 22 95 23; 29 Rue Abdelkader al-Moftaker; per hr Dh8; h9am- (Map p160; %0522 26 26 32; Rue Mohammed el- midnight) Very clean and modern, with fast Qory; screen/balcony/club Dh30/40/50) Classic, connection. Atl antic Coast CS hAoS ApBpLi nAgN C A cavernous, single-screen, art-deco cinema. Gig@net (Map p163; %0522 48 48 10; 140 Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni; per hr Dh10; IMAX Theatre CINEMA h24hr) Internet. LGnet (Map p160; %0522 27 46 13; 81 Blvd (Morocco Mall, Rte Azemmour, Anfa) This cinema Mohammed V; per hr Dh8; h9am-midnight) at Morocco Mall offers the country’s glitzi- Internet. est movie-going experience. 7 Shopping Although not an artisan centre, Casablanca has a good choice of traditional crafts from around Morocco. The most pleasant place to MEDICAL SERVICES shop is Quartier Habous, south of the centre. Polyclinique Atlas (Map p163; %0522 27 Merchants here are pretty laid-back, but the 40 39; 27 Rue Mohammed ben Ali, Quartier Gauthier; h24hr) Off Rue Jean Jaures. quality of crafts can vary and hard bargain- SOS Médecins (%0522 25 30 49, 0522 44 44 ing is the order of the day. There are craft 44; house call Dh400; h24hr) Private doctors shops of varying quality along Blvd Hou- who make house calls. phouët Boigny that aim to attract the tourist dirham. MONEY There are banks – most with ATMs and foreign- exchange offices – on almost every street corner Exposition Nationale ¨ in the centre of Casablanca. BMCE (Map p160; Hôtel Hyatt Regency, Pl des d’Artisanat ARTS & CRAFTS Nations Unies; h9am-9pm) Good for after- hours and weekend services. (Map p160; %0522 26 70 64; 3 Ave Hassan II; Crédit du Maroc (Map p160; %0522 47 72 h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-8pm) If you’d rather 55; 48 Blvd Mohammed V; h8.30am-6.30pm avoid haggling altogether, head here where Mon-Fri) Separate bureau de change that is you’ll find three floors of fixed-price crafts. very central; American Express (Amex) travel- lers cheques cashed for free. Morocco Mall MALL Voyages Schwartz (Map p160; %0522 37 63 30; Rue Prince Moulay Abdallah; h9am-6pm (www.moroccomall.net; Anfa; h10am-9pm Sun- Mon-Sat) Amex representative; does not cash Thu, 10am-10pm Fri & Sat) Morocco’s fanciest or sell travellers cheques. shopping destination, this new mall in Aïn Wafa Cash (Map p160; %0522 20 80 80; 15 Diab has stores galore, from recognised Rue Indriss Lahrizi; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Open international brands to a dedicated ‘souq’ longer hours; has an ATM and cashes travellers area with traditional Moroccan crafts. Take cheques. a shopping break to gawp at the two-storey- high aquarium, and fill up in the multi- national food court. Twin Center CLOTHING POST Central Market Post Office (Map p160; cnr (Map p163; cnr Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni & Al- Blvd Mohammed V & Rue Chaouia; h8.30am- Massira al-Khadra) Twin Center marks the high 4.30pm Mon-Fri) end of the chic shopping area and contains a FedEx (%0522 54 12 12; 313 Blvd Mohammed shopping mall, luxury hotel and office space. V; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Smaller boutiques on the side streets and Main Post Office (Map p160; cnr Blvd de Paris around the covered Maarif market are more & Ave Hassan II; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) atmospheric and good for bargains.

171 Medina Post Office (Map p158; Pl Ahmed el- STREET NAMES Atl antic Coast CGAe tS tAiBnLgA NThCeAre & Away Bidaoui; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Near the youth hostel. Casablanca’s French street names are slowly being replaced with Moroccan TOURIST INFORMATION names. Be very specific when asking Although the staff are polite, tourist offices in for directions, as many people, includ- Casablanca are of very little practical use. Try ing taxi drivers (and some local street Visit Casablanca (www.visitcasablanca.ma) for directories) have yet to make the tran- information before you travel or ask the recep- sition. You’ll often see several different tionist at your hotel for help. names for one street. Syndicat d’Initiative (Map p160; %0522 22 15 24; 98 Blvd Mohammed V; h8.30am-6.30pm (per day/night Dh20) and another just off Rue Mon-Fri) Tourist information. Tata (Dh5 per hour). Anywhere else a guard will ask for a tip for watching your car; it is common 88 Getting There & Away practice to pay Dh5. Avis Airport (%0522 53 90 72; Mohammed V AIR International Airport); City (Map p160; %0522 Casablanca’s Mohammed V International 31 24 24; 19 Ave des FAR) Airport (% 0522 53 90 40; www.onda.ma) is Budget Airport (%0522 33 91 57; Moham- 30km southeast of the city on the Marrakesh med V International Airport); City (Map p160; road. Regular flights leave here for most coun- %0522 31 31 24; Tours des Habous, Ave des tries in western Europe, as well as to West Africa, FAR) Algeria, Tunisia, Egypt, the Middle East and National Airport (%0522 53 97 16; Moham- North America. med V International Airport); City (Map p160; %0522 27 71 41; 12 Rue el-Oraïbi Jilali) Internally, the vast majority of Royal Air Ma- President Car (Map p160; %0661 21 03 94, roc’s (RAM) flights go via Casablanca, so you 0522 26 07 90; [email protected]; can get to any destination in Morocco directly 27 Rue el-Ghali Ahmed) A reliable local agency from the city. that has a well-maintained fleet of cars, very competitive rates, and comes much recom- BUS mended by the local expat community. The The modern CTM bus station (Map p160; Bouayad brothers will do their utmost to help, %0522 54 10 10; www.ctm.ma; 23 Rue Léon and can deliver a car to the airport or Marra- L’Africain) is close to Ave des FAR. It’s a pretty kesh if requested. It’s off Blvd Mohammed V. efficient place with a cafe. There are daily CTM bus departures. TAXI Shared grands taxis to Rabat (Dh30) and to Fez CTM also operates international buses to (Dh120) leave from Blvd Mohammed V opposite Belgium, France, Germany, Italy and Spain from the old Hôtel Lincoln. However, the train is more Casablanca. convenient and comfortable. The modern Gare Routière Ouled Ziane, lo- TRAIN cated 4km southeast of the centre, is the bus If your destination is on a train line, it’s gener- station for almost all non-CTM services. The ally the best way to travel. Casablanca has main reason to trek out here is for destinations five train stations, but only two of interest to not covered by CTM. A taxi to the bus station travellers. will cost about Dh20; alternatively take bus No 10 or 36 from Blvd Mohammed V near the All long-distance trains as well as trains to market. Mohammed V International Airport depart from Casa Voyageurs train station, 4km east of the Also on Rte Ouled Ziane, but more than 1km city centre. Catch bus 30 (Dh4), which runs closer to town, is the SAT bus station. SAT runs along Blvd Mohammed V, or hop in a taxi and pay national and international buses of a similar about Dh15 to get there. standard to CTM, though to fewer destinations. Fares are slightly cheaper. The Casa Port train station is a few hundred metres northeast of Pl des Nations Unies. Al- CAR though more convenient, trains from here only Casablanca is well endowed with car-rental run to Rabat (Dh35, one hour, every 30 minutes) agencies, many with offices around Ave des FAR, and Kenitra (Dh48, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes). Blvd Mohammed V and at the airport. Casa Port was under extensive reconstruction at the time of research. Casablanca has parking meters (Dh2 per hour, two hours maximum), operating from 8am to noon and 2pm to 7pm daily, except on Sunday and public holidays. If you don’t pay, you may be fined or have your wheels clamped. There is a guarded car park next to the British cemetery

172 DAY BUSES FROM CASABLANCA Atl antic Coast CGAe tS tAiBnLgA NA CrAound DESTINATION COST (DH) DURATION (HR) DAILY FREQUENCY Agadir 190 6½ 9 Chefchaouen 120 7 1 El-Jadida 40 2 6 Essaouira 130 6 3 with CTM; hourly with private companies Fez 85 4 8 Laâyoune 435 20 4 Marrakesh 85 3½ 15 Meknès 80 3½ 7 Ouezzane 90 4 1 Tangier 130 5½ 5 with CTM; regularly with private companies Taza 140 7 5 Tetouan 145 6 6 Destinations from Casa Voyageurs include the Bus 2 Blvd Mohammed V to Casa Voyageurs following: train station. Azemmour Dh31, one hour, seven daily Bus 4 Along Blvd de Paris and down Ave Lalla El-Jadida Dh35, 1½ hours, eight daily Yacout to the nouvelle medina. Fez Dh110, 3½ to 4½ hours, 16 daily Bus 9 From Blvd d’Anfa to Aïn Diab and the Marrakesh Dh90, three hours, nine daily beaches. Meknès Dh90, 3½ hours, 18 daily Bus 10 From Pl de la Concorde, along Blvd Nador Dh185, 11 hours, five daily Mohammed V to Gare Routière Ouled Ziane. Oujda Dh205, 10 hours, three daily Bus 11 From Ave des FAR to Gare Routière. Tangier Dh125, five hours, eight daily Bus 15 Northbound from Pl Oued al-Makhazine to the Hassan II Mosque. 88 Getting Around TAXI TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Casa’s red petits taxis are excellent value and The easiest way to get from Mohammed V Inter- can generally get you to your destination far national Airport to Casablanca is by train (2nd faster than any bus. You can hail one anywhere, class Dh40, 35 minutes). The trains are comfort- or there’s a petit-taxi stand on Ave des FAR. The able and reliable, and leave every hour from 6am minimum fare is Dh7, but expect to pay Dh15 to 10pm and at midnight. You can also continue in or near the city centre. Most drivers use the to Rabat (Dh75) or Kenitra (Dh88), though you’ll meter without question, but if they refuse to, have a change of train at Casa Voyageurs or Aïn just get out of the cab (note that taxi drivers at Sebaa. The trains leave from below the ground Casa Voyageurs never put their meters on, and floor of the airport Terminal 1 building. demand extortionate prices, even for locals). Prices rise by 50% after 8pm. Have plenty of From Casa Voyageurs train station to the small coins to hand, and check your change. airport, the first train leaves at 4.40am and then every hour from 6.07am to 10.07pm. Additional TRAM trains go from Casa Port, with a change at Aïn The long-awaited Casa Tramway (www.casa Sebaa. tramway.ma) is finally in operation, and makes for an easy and efficient way of getting across A grand taxi between the airport and the city the city. The most useful section of line for trav- centre costs Dh300, though you may be asked ellers is from Casa Voyageurs train station to Pl for Dh350 at unsocial hours. Some taxi drivers Mohammed V, via the Marché Central and Pl des receive commissions if they bring clients to Nations Unies. Trams also go to the beach at Aïn particular hotels. Diab (about 30 minutes from central Casablan- ca). Trams run every 15 minutes, with the first BUS and last departures from the termini at 5.30am The local bus system has been revamped, but and 10.30pm. Fares are Dh7, bought from easy- you’re more likely to find the new tramway or to-use ticket machines on the platforms (multi- petits taxis more useful. Buses cost Dh4 and ple journey tickets are also available). stop at designated bus stops.

173 Rabat ‫الرباط‬ blanca, but an early afternoon stroll along the main avenues of the happening suburb POP 2.5 MILLION of Agdal, where local hipsters flaunt their skinny jeans, is entertaining enough. And if While Rabat, Morocco’s political and ad- city life gets you down, you can escape to the ministrative capital since independence in beaches further north. 1956, has not established itself as a tourist destination, visitors who do go find a gem of History a city. The colonial architecture is stunning, the palm-lined boulevards are well kept The fertile plains inland from Rabat drew and relatively free of traffic, and the atmos- settlers to the area as far back as the 8th cen- phere is as cosmopolitan as its economic big tury BC. Both the Phoenicians and the Ro- brother down the coast. All in all, life here is mans set up trading posts in the estuary of pleasant and civilised. Casablancais say that, the Bou Regreg river in Sala, today’s Chellah. Atl antic Coast RGAe tBtAiTng A round with all the bureaucrats, Rabat is dull, and The Roman settlement, Sala Colonia, lasted they have a point. Yet the city is more laid- long after the empire’s fall and eventually back, pleasant and more provincial than became the seat of an independent Berber Casablanca, and far less grimy and frantic. kingdom. The Zenata Berbers built a ribat, The quiet medina has an authentic feel a fortress-monastery after which the city to it, some good shops and fascinating ar- takes its name, on the present site of Rabat’s chitecture. You’ll be blissfully ignored on kasbah. As the new town of Salé (created in the streets and souqs, so it’s easy to discover the 10th century) began to prosper on the the city’s monuments and hidden corners north bank of the river, the city of Chellah at your own pace. The picturesque kasbah, fell into decline. with its narrow alleys, art galleries and mag- nificent ocean views, is also worth exploring. The arrival of the Almohads in the 12th Rabat has a long and rich history, and century saw the ribat rebuilt as a kasbah, plenty of monuments to show for it from the a strategic jumping-off point for campaigns Phoenician, Roman, Almohad and Merenid in Spain, where the dynasty successfully times. The power shifted at times between brought Andalucia back under Muslim rule. Rabat and Salé, the whitewashed town Under Yacoub el-Mansour (the Victorious), across the Bou Regreg river where time ap- Rabat enjoyed a brief heyday as an imperial pears to have stood still. capital, Ribat al-Fatah (Victory Fortress). El- Rabat is also a good place to eat; there Mansour had extensive walls built, added are plenty of wonderful restaurants around the enormous Bab Oudaia to the kasbah and town. The nightlife is not what it is in Casa- began work on the Hassan Mosque, intend- ed to be the greatest mosque in all of the Is- lamic West, if not in all of the Islamic world. RABAT IN… One Day Start with a delicious breakfast at the Pâtisserie Majestic on Ave Mohammed V. A stroll through the medina will bring you to a superb lunch at Riad Oudaya. Cross Blvd Tariq al-Marsa and enter the Kasbah les Oudaias through the spectacular gate, Bab Oudaia. Climb to the top for magnificent views, then head to Galérie d’Art Nouiga. Stop for tea at Café Maure overlooking the Bou Regreg river. Take a taxi to the Archaeology Museum to see the famous Volubilis bronzes. By this time, you’ll have earned a beer on the terrace at the Hôtel Balima, before dinner at the swish Le Grand Comptoir. Two Days Take the tram to Salé for a Moroccan-style breakfast at a cafe on Pl Bab Khebaz. Head into the medina to view the beautiful Grande Mosquée and zawiyas (shrines). Wander down to the river and be rowed across to Rabat, have fish for lunch at Borj Eddar overlooking the ocean, then take a taxi to Le Tour Hassan and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. Another short taxi ride gets you to the Chellah, perfect for an after- noon stroll. For dinner, L’Entrecôte in trendy Agdal hits the spot, before dancing the night away at Amnesia.

46446Rabat 174 Atl antic Coast RG eA tBtAiTng A round e# 0 1 km e # 0 0.5 miles 4464 444Enlargement ABCDE FG 111111 Ave LMinoeha2mmT¤#reaidnV 111111 Ru Sta£#tion Bab Sebta 1 1 1 1 1 1 SALÉ 1 1 1 1 1 M1EDINA 111111 111111 111111 111111 46446661 1 1 1 á# 1 ATLANTIC e 1 1111 11 OCEAN 1111 644 4441 1 1 1 ¤# 1er11ra1da 9 111111 1ß# â#1111 111111 1 1 1 5 111111 ¤# Line 1 Rue J 111111 Place1 Ave 11 1 1111 H1ass 44 464444 662 1111 a1n II 1111 Ave Mohammed V MELLAH Hassan II 1 1 1 1 1 Rue Bazzo Beach Ù# 111111 See Enlargement Atlantic Ocean SALÉ 11111 æ# 6644 444441 Beach 111111 1 1 #æ 1 11111 2 3 1 12 10 23 Light 1 12 1 1 See Salé Map (p188) Ave de Fès ¤# â# ü# House 181#ú Ø#1 1 1 11 Ø# 13 111 1111 1111 464 66444 660 100m111alB111-MlvadrTsaariq1 # 1 #æ 1 Andalucían 1111 Gardens 1111111 Beach Lines 1 & 2 1 1 1Cem1 ete1ry 1 1 1 1111111 63 ulit11 1 1 1 1 1 1 141 1 #þ 25 1 1 1 1 1#ú1ÿ#1 Blvd Tariq al-Marsa 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 211 1 ÿ# 15 æ# 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1ÿ#1 1 1 Oued Bou Regreg 1 161 66666666 D4 Gazo 11111111 Blvd Arrabah Khattabi 1111 1 M1 ED1INA 11 111 khtar 11 Place Moumen Hypermarché al- 11 Id Marjane (50m); OCEAN 000000000000000000000000000#æ#æ00000000078000000000 Magic Park (250m); 1 1 al Mellah BlvdMo 1 ¤#1 1 Abdel í# Salé (1.25m); 11 34 –# (12km) 000Hala-MsTJdsraaeiar1VnandVnsI11iouLgInIuelLs1erEd11-Dah¤#bMPi lealcileiaR el-Azhar31 í# 4 al-MoukaAvoeuaAbmdaelkrim 111 11 111 Ave R 11 ¤# 111 B lvd A b i Rad raq Line 1 Rue riss Ave NOUVELLE000000000000

SRtVaaibtlliaeotn00000£#00000¤#00000R0000aAl-vFeoMraotu0000lay000000000Ha000000000ss00000an í# í# 26 Rabat Map (p180) lah Ave de Madagascar -# Ave d'Alger28 í#27 í# evelt 6 665 Aveal II 33 Ave Sidi Mohammed ben Abdal Ave Hassan i AveR Ave Fès 35 5 el-Marrakch í# Ave Pasteur See Central :: -Keb ibat í# an-Nasí#r 32 :: 66666666 29 ibRnuKehaOlqAbvaehAbdelhamid Mohammed Zerktoun i Ave doun oos RueOuarzazateAve Mohamò#med V :: Place Jardin Ave Yacoub a :: Ave d'Essais MECHOUAR l-Mansour ß# :: 30 í# :: Ahl al- Fas Mosque :: 66666661 1 1 1 Gare Routière ›# Mohammed Ave Municipal :: (1Bus1Station) Zerktouni Stadium 4 #æ : :6 111 11111 :: 1111 111 :: :: 111 Line 2 11111 111 :: û# Place AveJohnKennedy 1111 :: 111 22 ibn Yassine 11111 111 666619#ú :: Rue Oqbah Ave Omarben KRhuaettSaebbou V# 1111 Rabat Agdal BFalvl dOaull-dAOmmirar Royal 11111 6: : Train Palace ad-Doustour :: 1111 :: 7 Station 11111 : :7 £# :: Mosque ß# RuReueDaarl-aAabtal Blvd :: Direction de la Badr Cartographie (2km); Atl antic Coast RG eA tBtAiTng A round 6 CTM ›#(3km) 8 w 8 G D Le Puzzle Place al- (300m) Mamoun A 666ò# ONMT #ú 17 Atlas (500m) #ú Ave 20 D 66AGDAL Japanese Embassy (4km); D Malian Embassy (4km); D D #û El Rancho Hôpital Ibn Sina/ Mauritanian Embassy (4km) D 24 (100m) Avicenna (800m) D wE BC F 175

176 Atl antic Coast RS iAgBhAtTs Rabat 18 Borj Eddar.................................................C2 19 Galapagos Café .......................................B7 æ Sights 20 L'Entrecôte...............................................B8 1 Andalucian Gardens............................... B2 21 Restaurant Dinarjat.................................C3 2 Bab Oudaia .............................................. A2 û Drinking & Nightlife 3 Carpet Souq ............................................ D3 22 5th Avenue ...............................................B7 4 Chellah ......................................................F6 23 Café Maure...............................................B2 5 Galérie d'Art Nouiga ................................B1 24 Le Puzzle ..................................................B8 6 Kasbah les Oudaias ................................ A2 þ Shopping 7 Le Tour Hassan ........................................F4 25 Ensemble Artisanal .................................D3 8 Mausoleum of Mohammed V.................F4 9 Mosque el-Atiqa....................................... A1 10 Musée des Oudaias ................................ A2 11 Plateforme du Sémaphore.....................B1 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours ï Information 12 Club Nautique de la Plage de 26 Algerian Embassy.................................... F5 Rabat ..................................................... C2 27 Belgian Embassy..................................... F5 13 Oudayas Surf Club.................................. C2 28 Dutch Embassy........................................ E5 29 French Consulate ....................................B5 ÿ Sleeping 30 French Embassy......................................B6 14 Dar Al Batoul ........................................... C3 31 Italian Embassy ....................................... F4 15 Dar El Kebira............................................ D3 32 Spanish Embassy....................................C6 16 Hôtel Darna.............................................. C3 33 Tunisian Embassy ................................... E5 34 UK Embassy.............................................E4 ú Eating 35 US Embassy............................................. F5 17 Bert's ........................................................ B8 El-Mansour’s death in 1199 brought an ply and defence were more easily achieved. end to these grandiose schemes, leaving the Since then, the city has remained the seat of great Hassan Mosque incomplete. The city government and official home of the king. soon lost all significance and it wasn’t until the 17th century that Rabat’s fortunes began 1 Sights to change. 1 Medina As Muslim refugees arrived from Christian Spain, so did a band of Christian renegades, Rabat’s walled medina, all there was of the Moorish pirates, freebooters and multina- city when the French arrived in the early tional adventurers. Rabat and Salé became 20th century, is a rich mixture of spices, safe havens for corsairs – merciless pirates carpets, crafts, cheap shoes and bootlegged whom English chroniclers called the Sallee DVDs. Built on an orderly grid in the 17th Rovers. At one point they even created their century, it may lack the more intriguing at- own pirate state, the Republic of Bou Re- mosphere of the older medinas of the inte- greg. These corsairs roved as far as the coast rior, but it’s a great place to roam, with no of North America seeking Spanish gold, and aggressive selling. to Cornwall in southern England to capture Christian slave labour. The first Alawite The main market street is Rue Souika, sultans attempted to curtail their looting lined with food and spice shops at the west- sprees, but no sultan ever really exercised ern end, then textiles and silverware as you control over them. Corsairs continued at- head east. The Souq as-Sebbat (Jewellery tacking European shipping until well into Souq; Map p180) specialises in gaudy gold the 19th century. and begins roughly at Rue Bab Chellah. The Grande Mosquée (Map p180; off Rue Bab Chel- Meanwhile, Sultan Mohammed ben Ab- lah), a 14th-century Merenid original that dallah briefly made Rabat his capital at the has been rebuilt in the intervening years, is end of the 18th century, but the city soon just down this road to the right. fell back into obscurity. In 1912 France stra- tegically abandoned the hornet’s nest of po- If you continue past the Rue des Consuls litical intrigue and unrest in the traditional (so called because diplomats lived here un- capitals of Fez and Marrakesh and instead til 1912), you’ll come to the mellah (Jewish shifted power to coastal Rabat, where sup- quarter) with an interesting flea market

177 going down to Bab el-Bahr and the river. plans. The tower is built to the same design Turning north along Rue des Consuls is one as the Giralda in Seville, and the Koutoubia of the more interesting areas of the medina, in Marrakesh. with craft shops and some of the grand dip- lomatic residences. After the carpet souq Mausoleum of Mohammed V LANDMARK (Map p174) the street ends in an open area lined with craft shops, which was once the (Map p174; hsunrise-sunset) F Near the setting for the slave auctions in the days of Hassan Tower stands this marble mausole- the Sallee Rovers. From here you can make um, built in traditional Moroccan style. The your way up the hill to the kasbah. present king’s father (the late Hassan II) and grandfather have been laid to rest here. The decoration, despite the patterned zellij and carved plaster, gives off an air of tranquillity. 1 East of the Centre Visitors to the mausoleum must be respect- Atl antic Coast RS iAgBhAtTs Le Tour Hassan HISTORIC SITE fully dressed, and can look down into the tomb from a gallery. (Hassan Tower; Map p174) Towering above Oued Bou Regreg, and surrounded by well-tended gardens, is Rabat’s most famous landmark. Chellah HISTORIC SITE The Almohads’ most ambitious project would (Map p174; cnr Ave Yacoub al-Mansour & Blvd Mous- sa ibn Nassair; admission Dh20; h9am-5.30pm) have been the second-largest mosque of its Abandoned, crumbling and overgrown, the time, after Samarra in Iraq, but Sultan Ya- coub el-Mansour died before it was finished. old Roman city of Sala Colonia and the Merenid necropolis of Chellah is one of Ra- He intended a 60m-tall minaret, but the bat’s most evocative sights. The Phoenicians tower was abandoned at 44m. The mosque was destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, were the first to settle on the grassy slopes above the river, but the town grew when and today only a forest of shattered pillars the Romans took control in about AD 40. testifies to the grandiosity of El-Mansour’s The city was abandoned in 1154 in favour KASBAH LES OUDAIAS The kasbah (Map p174; Rue Jamaa) occupies the oldest part of the city, the site of the original ribat (fortress-monastery), and commands magnificent views over the river and ocean from its cliff-top perch. Predominately residential, with tranquil alleys and whitewashed houses mostly built by Muslim refugees from Spain, this is a picturesque place to wander. Many foreigners are buying up the houses here, and it’s easy to see the appeal. Some ‘guides’ offer their services but there is no need. The 12th-century Almohad Bab Oudaia (Map p174), the most dramatic kasbah gate, is elaborately decorated with a series of carved arches. Inside the gateway, the main street, Rue Jamaa, runs straight through the kasbah. About 200m ahead on the left is the Mosque el-Atiqa (Map p174), the oldest mosque in Rabat, built in the 12th century and restored in the 18th century. You’ll also find a number of low-key tourist shops and a couple of art galleries, such as the Galérie d’Art Nouiga (Map p174; Rue Jamaa), along this street. At the end of the street is the Plateforme du Sémaphore (Signal Platform; Map p174; Rue Jamaa), with sweeping views over the estuary and across to Salé. The elevated position provided an excellent defence against seagoing attackers negotiating the sand- banks below. Returning from the Plateforme, turn left down Rue Bazzo, a narrow winding street that leads down to the popular Café Maure (p184) and a side entrance to the formal Andalucian Gardens (Map p174; hsunrise-sunset). The gardens, laid out by the French during the colonial period, occupy the palace grounds and make a wonderful shady retreat. The palace itself is a grand 17th-century affair built by Moulay Ismail. The building now houses the Musée des Oudaias (Map p174; %0537 73 15 37; admission Dh20), the national jewellery museum containing a fascinating collection of prehistoric, Roman and Islamic jewellery found in the different regions of Morocco.

178 of Salé, but in the 14th century the Merenid acrobats – all found at Volubilis. The fate of sultan Abou al-Hassan Ali built a necropolis the artefacts here is uncertain as a new eth- on top of the Roman site and surrounded nographical museum is planned, as well as a it with the towers and defensive wall that museum at Volubilis itself. stand today. Moroccan Museum of Money MUSEUM Overgrown by fruit trees and wildflow- ers, it is an atmospheric place to roam (Map p180; www.bkam.ma; cnr Ave Mohammed V around. From the main gate, a path heads & Rue al-Qahira; admission Dh20; h9am-5.30pm down through fragrant fig, olive and orange Tue-Fri, 9am-noon & 3-6pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) trees to a viewing platform that overlooks Housed in the historic Mauresque build- the ruins of the Roman city. Making out ing of the Bank al-Maghrib, this quirky the structures takes a bit of imagination, museum and art gallery is an unexpect- but the mystery is part of the magic of this edly interesting tour of Moroccan history Atl antic Coast RA cAtBiAvTi t i es place. A path leads through the ruins of the through its coinage, from the Roman period triple-arched entrance known as the Arc to today – we especially liked the gloriously de Triomphe, past the Jupiter Temple (to colourful notes that introduced the dirham the left) and to the forum (at the end of in 1961. Also enjoy the galleries of French the main road), while another goes to the Orientalist art (including Marjorelle, of the octagonal Pool of the Nymph, part of the famed gardens in Marrakesh), and the large Roman system of water distribution. collection of Moroccan abstract, naive and figurative painting. Far easier to discern are the remains of the Islamic complex, with its elegant Museum of minaret now topped by a stork’s nest. An incredible colony of storks has taken over Contemporary Art MUSEUM, GALLERY the ruins, lording over the site from their tree-top nests. If you come in spring, the (Map p180; Ave Moulay Hassan) Still under con- clacking bills of mating pairs is a wonderful struction at the time of research, this will be soundtrack to a visit. the first public gallery of contemporary art in Morocco. Near the ruined minaret is the tomb of Abou al-Hassan Ali and his wife, complete 2 Activities with ornate zellij ornamentation. A small medersa is nearby, where the remains of Oudayas Surf Club WATER SPORTS pillars, students’ cells and scalloped pools – as well as the blocked-off mihrab (prayer (Map p174; %0537 26 06 83; www.surfmaroc.info/ niche) – are still discernible. On leaving oscr; Plage des Oudaias; 90min surfboard/body- the mosque, the path passes the tombs of board lesson Dh150) One of Morocco’s original several saints on the far right. To the left, surf clubs, it offers lessons and board hire, the murky waters of a walled pool (marked and has a swish clubhouse/cafe facing the ‘bassin aux anguilles’) still attract women waves. King Mohammed VI was a founding who believe that feeding boiled eggs to the member. eels here brings fertility and easy childbirth. Club Nautique de la ¨ Plage de Rabat WATER SPORTS (Map p174; %0537 26 16 09; www.cnprabat.com; Plage des Oudaias) Below the kasbah, this 1 Central Rabat club offers lessons and equipment hire for surfing, bodyboarding, windsurfing and sea- Archaeology Museum MUSEUM kayaking. (Map p180; %0537 70 19 19; 23 Rue al-Brihi Par- ent; admission Dh10; h9am-4.30pm Wed-Mon) The interesting Archaeology Museum (even C Courses if the labels are only in Arabic and French) gives a good account of Morocco’s history. Rabat has many language schools offering Prehistoric finds include a beautiful neo- year-long courses, but the following offers lithic rock carving of a man surrounded by short-term classes. concentric circles. The highlight of the col- lection is the Salle des Bronzes, which Center for Cross-Cultural displays ceramics, statuary and artefacts from the Roman settlements at Volubilis, Learning LANGUAGE Lixus and Chellah. Look out for the beauti- ful head of Juba II and don’t miss the tiny (CCCL; Map p180; %0537 20 23 65; www.cccl. ma; Ave Hassan II, Bab el-Had) Intensive short courses in Modern Standard Arabic, Darija and Tamazight.

z Festivals & Events 179 Rabat hosts a number of festivals and events sounds. Readers recommend this modern each year. place with smallish rooms and sleek new furniture and fittings – if not a lot of char- Festival Mawazine MUSIC acter. Despite the double glazing the rooms can be noisy, so it’s best to forgo the medina (www.festivalmawazine.ma; hMay) This festival view for a room at the back. draws the biggest names from the interna- tional pop music scene, as well as some ma- Hotel Central HOTEL € (Map p180; %0537 70 73 56; 2 Rue Al-Basra; jor Arabic music stars. Rihanna’s headline s/d Dh170/250, without bathroom Dh120/200) act in 2013 drew 150,000 people – claimed to be the biggest music concert in Moroccan Opposite the imposing Balima and right in the heart of town, the Hotel Central has a history. good-value range of simple rooms. It’s a lit- Atl antic Coast FReAsBtAiTvals & E v en t s Festival International de Rabat MUSIC, FILM tle past its best, but remains a friendly place (www.rabatfilmfestival.org; hJun-Jul) The big- handy to everything in town. Rooms with gest drawcard, attracting hoards of music shared bathrooms have their own sinks. Hot lovers and film buffs to the capital for two showers are Dh10. weeks in late June and early July. oLe Piétri Urban Hotel HOTEL €€ 4 Sleeping (Map p180; %0537 70 78 20; www.lepietri.com; 4 Rue Tobrouk; s/d Dh720/790; aW) S This Most of Rabat’s better accommodation is in good-value boutique hotel in a quiet street the new city between Ave Mohammed V and in a central, but more residential, part of Ave Abderrahman, while the old medina has town is modern and chic. The 36 spacious a host of low-budget dives and a couple of bright rooms with wooden floors are com- upmarket riads (townhouses set around an fortable, well equipped and decorated in internal garden). Rabat caters mainly for warm colours in a contemporary style. Fifth- business travellers and has a disproportion- floor rooms have huge balconies. The hotel ate number of top-end hotels. has an excellent restaurant, Les Sessions du Piétri, with live jazz several times a week. The medina and kasbah are full of budget hotels that are pretty basic and many lack Hôtel Royal HOTEL €€ any kind of creature comforts, including (Map p180; %0537 72 11 71; www.mtds.com/royal- showers. However, there are some good op- hotel; 1 Rue Ammane; s/d Dh528/748) In a very tions, too. Rabat has a limited choice of mid- central location, the Royal has tastefully range accommodation, most of it located on renovated rooms that are very comfortable, or just off Ave Mohammed V. The city offers with polished wooden furniture, new mat- all the usual top international chain hotels, tresses and sparkling clean bathrooms. The but for something with a little more local fla- rooms on the 4th floor have the best views vour the medina options offer ultrachic style over the park and city, are quieter and come and service. with a large terrace. An adequate breakfast 4 Ville Nouvelle is served in the downstairs restaurant. Hôtel Splendid HOTEL € Hôtel Balima HOTEL €€ (Map p180; %0537 72 32 83; 8 Rue Ghazza; s/d (Map p180; %0537 70 77 55; www.hotel-balima.net; without bathroom Dh125/160, with bathroom Ave Mohammed V; s/d incl breakfast Dh563/746; Dh190/250; W) In a 1930s building with aW) The grand dame of Rabat hotels is enough original features left to give some showing its age a bit, but still offers newly character, the Splendid has spacious, bright decorated and comfortable en-suite rooms, rooms with high ceilings, big windows and all immaculately kept and with great views simple wooden furniture set around a pleas- over the city. The hotel has a decent res- ant courtyard (with wi-fi). Bathrooms are taurant and nightclub. The glorious shady modern and rooms without bathrooms have terrace facing Ave Mohammed V is still the a hot-water washbasin. place to meet in Rabat. Hôtel Majestic HOTEL € Hôtel Bélère HOTEL €€ (Map p180; %0537 72 29 97; www.hotelmajestic. (Map p180; %0537 20 33 02, 0537 20 33 01; www. ma; 121 Ave Hassan II; s/d Dh260/320) Another belere-hotels.com; 33 Ave Moulay Youssef; s/d from decent option, though not as palatial as it Dh650/980; naW) This four-star hotel is a

180 Central Rabat e# 0 400 m A 0 0.2 miles B C D 61 25 ú# Mellah Rue des Consuls Ave Mohammed V æ# 1 1 1 1 51 1 1 1 R Souika 1111 ˜# 46 1 111 Place MEDINA 1111 #æ1 2 1 1 1 Mosquée 1111 al Mellah Mu2ú#1n96Ricÿ#ÿ#Siepba7ß#bÿ#1la1hei l-ß#M3ú#eMM0kokBSisalqimbuéaeneAve Hassan II 1 Bab 1 1 1 Chel1lah 1 66611 11 1 1¤# 1 11 1 1 1 1 -# 1 11 21 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 B1ab 1 1 1 6663 Avede l'Égypte 1 C1hell1ah 1 Line 1 666666411 666665 1 1111 Atl antic Coast RS lAeBeApTi ng 11 18 1111 2 1 ú# 3 48 Jar1dins1 1 1 4 11 ›# Triangle 5 1 BHabadal-6 # ÿ#M1aR2r.#kSe¤#MotPRéelaaNkdbRcaiC3ORnaeerV7tah-#3nRZUpa-aì#Io6arVdnLeméheý#-LEls1l-ú#Raú#b1B4EeBLò#7rnGRaALoÿ#e3gthEvusAa1daei#mnâd#abz3û#Mdteazme3ú#as3ÿ#4R2o›ú##sa433u£#Y3ný#22¤#9olRe58aR#uÿ#00000000yÿ1#Ag8RGH1R0Hol3aÿ#aa-000000000aaQbrt2ú#lsie-1amKa4s000000009ú#tdhhaaR4einThð#0000000rRû#0aiaalu#nlú#2e-0000000t3M4a7d47ea0000000R3RnVs9MRuMo3MíR#í#eoSuA8ouaoruß#bluldâ#sa-#n4o-FlqyaDno4uuySaarC1eaFlhRiSamtabatRtrÿ#1icahiP5shnMeieiea3d00000000d0000ú#oú#r2rlu1r-4a›#000000000000Melâ##a¤#Ml42PÜ#ya24le00000000000000000aú#ArPl5¤#iciblnal00000000000000000iea2adilJP-l6ePRJ2-ol00000000000000000Jlol1uaodaAul#úlu'ú#c000000000a-AzlLñ#laeninaiznne000000000nn2eeea0sba1 -# R dsleavMieonastir -# Ave ibn Toumerte Ave Allal ben Abdallah R Patrice Ave Jean Jaurès R Damas & 2 Ave Mohammed V Aveibn ToumerteLine 2 Lumumba R TobrouRkuePaal-rBernithi AAvbedaMlloauhlay Nasr ABCD step up from the other options in this price The simple rooms are bright and tidy and range and offers small but extremely com- surround a central courtyard on the 1st floor 666fortable nonsmoking rooms with tasteful above the Banque Populaire. Despite being (albeit very 1970s) modern decor, now back in the hub of things, the Dorhmi (also spelt in fashion. It has a bar and restaurant and Doghmi) offers quiet rooms. Hot showers it’s handy to the train station. are Dh10. 4 Medina & Kasbah Hôtel Darna HOTEL € (Map p174; %0537 73 47 05; www.hoteldarna.ma; Blvd el-Alou; s/d Dh300/500; W) The Darna Hôtel Dorhmi HOTEL € offers a tidy selection of comfortable and (Map p180; %0537 72 38 98; 313 Ave Mohammed V; s/d/tr Dh140/220/300) Immaculately kept, modern, if unexciting, rooms. It’s a good choice well located close to the kasbah and very friendly and keenly priced, this family- medina. run hotel is the best of the medina cheapies.

181 Central Rabat 27 Mamma Italia ...........................................C3 Atl antic Coast RS lAeBeApTi ng 28 Pâtisserie Majestic..................................B3 æ Sights 29 Restaurant de la Libération....................B2 1 Archaeology Museum ............................ D5 30 Restaurant el-Bahia ................................B2 2 Grande Mosquée .....................................C1 3 Moroccan Museum of Money ............... B3 Riad Oudaya....................................(see 16) 4 Museum of Contemporary Art.............. C5 31 Tajine wa Tanja........................................B4 5 Souq as-Sebbat .......................................C1 32 Ty Potes....................................................D4 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours û Drinking & Nightlife 6 Center for Cross-Cultural Learning...... A2 33 Amnesia....................................................B2 Cafetéria du 7ème Art .................. (see 35) ÿ Sleeping 34 Henry's Bar...............................................C4 7 Hôtel al-Maghrib al-Jadid ...................... B2 Hôtel Balima..................................... (see 8) 8 Hôtel Balima ............................................ C4 9 Hôtel Bélère............................................. B5 ý Entertainment 35 Cinéma du 7ème Art ...............................B3 10 Hotel Central ........................................... C3 36 Cinéma Renaissance ..............................B3 11 Hôtel Dorhmi ........................................... B2 12 Hôtel Majestic ......................................... A2 ï Information 13 Hôtel Royal .............................................. C3 37 BMCE ........................................................B3 14 Hôtel Splendid......................................... B3 38 French Consulate-General.....................C4 15 Le Piétri Urban Hotel.............................. C4 39 German Embassy....................................C3 16 Riad Oudaya .............................................B1 40 Internet .....................................................C3 ú Eating ï Transport 17 Cafe Weimar............................................ B5 41 Avis............................................................C4 18 Fruit & Vegetable Market....................... A2 42 Budget ......................................................B4 19 La Dolce Vita............................................ C3 43 Bus 3 to Agdal..........................................B4 20 La Koutoubia ........................................... D5 44 Bus Stand (16 & 28)................................D5 21 La Rive...................................................... D4 45 Europcar...................................................D3 22 La Veranda............................................... D4 46 Grands Taxis for Fez, Meknès & 23 Le Grand Comptoir................................. B3 Salé......................................................... D1 24 Le Petit Beur – Dar Tajine...................... C4 47 Hertz .........................................................C4 25 Le Ziryab ...................................................C1 48 Intercity Buses.........................................A2 Les Sessions du Piétri ................... (see 15) 26 L'R du Gout .............................................. D5 Hôtel al-Maghrib al-Jadid HOTEL € oRiad Oudaya RIAD €€€ (Map p180; %0537 73 22 07; 2 Rue Sebbahi; s/d Dh80/120) Although the rooms at this hotel (Map p180; %0537 70 23 92; www.riadrabat.com; 46 Rue Sidi Fateh; s/d/ste Dh1100/1300/1650) are fairly small and spartan, they are pris- Tucked away down an alleyway in the medi- tinely clean, with shuttered windows that let in lots of light. You’ll either love or hate the na (it’s near the mosque with the octagonal minaret), this brightly painted guesthouse shocking-pink walls but it’s all part of the is a gem. The rooms around a spectacular rather quirky character of this place. Hot showers are Dh10. courtyard are tastefully decorated with a blend of Moroccan style and Western com- fort. Subtle lighting, open fireplaces, balco- Dar Al Batoul RIAD €€ nies and the gentle gurgling of the fountain (Map p174; %0537 72 72 50, 0661 40 11 81; www. riadbatoul.com; 7 Derb Jirari; d/ste Dh870/1400; in the tiled courtyard below complete the ro- mantic appeal. Meals here are sublime but W) This grand 18th-century merchant’s need to be ordered in advance. house tucked down a derb (alley) off the main street has been transformed into a sumptuous hotel with just eight rooms in Dar El Kebira RIAD €€€ (Map p174; %0537 72 49 06; www.darelkebira.com; traditional Moroccan style. Centred on a Rue Ferrane Znaki, Impasse Belghazi; r Dh1350- graceful columned courtyard, each room is different, with stunning combinations 1600, ste Dh1850; W) A plush and expansive riad, Dar El Kebira has a selection of large of fabrics, stained glass and intricate hand- and well-appointed rooms with plenty painted tilework. of traditionally decorated ones that stay just the right side of Moroccan-riad-bling.

Atl antic Coast RE aAtBiAnTg182 RABAT FOR CHILDREN Hassle-free shopping in the souqs and the impressive kasbah make Rabat a pleasant place to visit with children. The Chellah (p177) offers a wide open space. However, there are few specific attractions in the city for younger visitors. The best bet is to head out of town to the beach, or the Jardins Exotiques (p189). The 52-hectare Jardin Zoologique de Rabat (Zoological Gardens; www.rabatzoo. ma) northwest of Temara was being upgraded at the time of research. Long a neglected place with concrete pens for the animals, the recently refurbished zoo is divided into five ecosystems, including the Atlas Mountains (featuring captive-bred Atlas Lions). The Poney Club de Rabat (%0537 66 63 63; 45min private lesson Dh150), to the west of town, offers riding lessons and events for children and has English-speaking staff. Across the river in Salé is the Magic Park (%0535 88 59 90; Rte N6; admission Dh10; h12.30-11pm Mon-Fri, 4.30-11pm Sat & Sun) with rides and cafes, providing just about enough entertainment to while away an afternoon. There’s a restaurant (book in advance), a ter- La Dolce Vita ICE CREAM € race looking over the medina for breakast or (Map p180; 8 Rue Tanta) Delicious homemade sunset drinks, and an in-house hammam to Italian gelato comes in a dozen flavours. It’s soothe your travel cares away. next to the Mamma Italia restaurant. 5 Eating oLe Petit Beur – Dar Tajine MOROCCAN €€ Rabat has a wonderful choice of restaurants (Map p180; %0537 73 13 22; 8 Rue Damas; mains from cheap and cheerful holes-in-the-wall to Dh100; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat; n) A mod- upmarket gourmet pads feeding the city’s est little place renowned for its excellent legions of politicians and diplomats. Moroccan food, from succulent tajines and heavenly couscous to one of the best pastil- The best place for quick, cheap food in las in town, and it’s licenced. It’s quieter at Rabat is on Ave Mohammed V just inside lunchtime but livens up at night when the the medina gate. Here you’ll find a slew of waiters double as musicians and play oud small joints dishing out tajines, brochettes, (lute) music to accompany your meal. Book salads and chips for cheap and cheaper. ahead or get there early as it fills up quickly. You’ll know the best ones by the queue of locals waiting patiently to be served. oTy Potes FRENCH €€ (Map p180; 11 Rue Ghafsa; mains from Dh80; Another good spot is around Rue Tanta hnoon-2.45pm Tue-Sat, 11am-3pm & 7-11pm Sun) in the ville nouvelle, where you’ll find fast- A pleasant and welcoming lunch spot and food joints serving everything from burgers teahouse, serving an amazing range of sweet and brochettes to pizza and panini. 5 Ville Nouvelle and savoury crêpes, salads and sandwiches. It’s popular with well-heeled locals. The at- mosphere is more European, with a deeply La Rive MOROCCAN € planted garden at the back, and the Sunday (Map p180; %0537 73 00 01; www.larive.com; Pl Moulay Hassan; mains from Dh40) Modern and brunch (Dh105 to Dh125) is particularly well attended. Alcohol and charcuterie are airy, this is one of four equally agreeable eat- served. ing options on this plaza – a good spot away from the traffic and bustle. There’s a good selection of sandwiches and salads, seafood Mamma Italia ITALIAN €€ (Map p180; %0537 70 73 29; 6 Rue Tanta; mains and tajines, plus great-value couscous on from Dh70; hlunch & dinner) It looks pretty Fridays. dark from the outside, but this traditionally styled bistro serves some of the best Italian Pâtisserie Majestic PATISSERIE € food in town. Close-packed tables with plen- (Map p180; cnr Rue Ammane & Ave Allal ben Ab- dallah; pastries from Dh12) An excellent and ty of candles add to the atmosphere. Some of the pasta portions can be on the small side, extremely popular patisserie, perfect for but the wood-fired pizzas and grilled meats breakfast or an afternoon cake with superb coffee, and right in the centre of town. will leave you planning a return visit. There’s a good wine list.

183 La Veranda MEDITERRANEAN €€ the bright young things come for a drink af- (Map p180; %0674 84 12 44; Institut Français, 1 ter work, and stay on for dinner. There are Rue Abou Inane; mains Dh80-130; hlunch & din- live concerts on Tuesday, Friday and Satur- ner Mon-Sat) This loft-style restaurant, in a day. An eclectic menu features everything modernist villa with a pleasant garden un- from Asian chicken to steaks, Atlas trout to der majestic palm trees, is the place to be mussels, and chocolate fondue for dessert. at lunchtime. Run by the same owner as Le Grand Comptoir, it serves good contempo- Le Grand Comptoir FRENCH €€ (Map p180; %0537 20 15 14; www.legrandcomp rary French-Mediterranean bistro food from toir.ma; 279 Ave Mohammed V; mains Dh95-200; a changing menu written on a blackboard. The staff are young and trendy. It’s just be- h9am-1am) Sleek, stylish and oozing the charms of a 1930s Parisienne brasserie, this hind the church at the French Institute. suave restaurant and lounge bar woos cus- Tajine wa Tanja MOROCCAN €€ tomers with its chic surroundings and clas- Atl antic Coast RE aAtBiAnTg (Map p180; %0537 72 97 97; 9 Rue de Baghdad; mains Dh80; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat; W) sic French menu. Candelabras, giant palms and contemporary art adorn the grand salon Down-to-earth Moroccan dishes are the while a pianist tinkles in the background. A speciality at this small, friendly restaurant Rabat institution, and a good place to have near the train station. Choose from a range breakfast or coffee, too. of wood-fired grills or tajines prepared to traditional recipes, or make a special outing for the magnificent Friday couscous. It’s a 5 Medina & Kasbah fairly quiet spot, and not so intimidating for Restaurant el-Bahia MOROCCAN € (Map p180; %0537 73 45 04; Ave Hassan II; mains women travelling alone. Dh60; hlunch & dinner) Built into the outside L’R du Gout FRENCH €€ of the medina walls (a good spot for people- (Map p180; %0537 76 06 10; 8 Rue Moulay Abdel Aziz; set lunch menu Dh160; hlunch & dinner) This watching), this laid-back restaurant has the locals lapping up hearty Moroccan fare. large restaurant with a colourful interior – a Sit on the pavement terrace, in the shaded blend of French bistro and Moroccan flair – is run by young Frenchmen. The menu courtyard or upstairs in the traditional salon. serves traditional French brasserie food Restaurant de la Libération MOROCCAN € such as foie gras, veal kidneys and steak (Map p180; 256 Ave Mohammed V; mains Dh60; with a pepper sauce. hlunch & dinner) Cheap, cheerful and mar- ginally more classy than the string of other Cafe Weimar CAFE €€ eateries along this road (ie it’s got plastic (Map p180; 7 Rue Sana’a; pizzas Dh80) This hip menus and tablecloths), this basic restaurant cafe in the Goethe Institut is where the does a steady line in traditional favourites. young and beautiful hang out for cake and Friday is couscous day when giant platters of coffee or lunch. It also does a simple Medi- the stuff are delivered to the eager masses. terranean menu and is a good spot for Sun- day brunch. Book ahead, but there are no Borj Eddar SEAFOOD €€ (Map p174; %0537 70 15 00; mains Dh120; hlunch reservations on Friday and Saturday. & dinner) Just outside the kasbah down at La Koutoubia MOROCCAN €€ the beach, this restaurant overlooking the (Map p180; %0537 70 10 75; 10 Pierre Parent; mains Dh80; hlunch & dinner) Old-fashioned sea has a menu of excellent fresh fish and seafood dishes. The next door Restaurant de Moroccan restaurant with plenty of tradi- la Plage has a similar menu and the same tional zellij and colourful painted panels. All the classic Moroccan dishes are on the views, if the Borj Eddar is full. There’s little to choose between them: both have glass- menu here, including tajines and couscous, fronted terraces overlooking the ocean. but labour-intensive specialities like pigeon pastilla or mechoui (roast lamb) need to be Riad Oudaya MOROCCAN €€€ (Map p180; %0537 70 23 92; 46 Rue Sidi Fateh; ordered in advance. Good wine list. lunch/dinner set menu Dh220/330; hby reserva- Les Sessions du Piétri FUSION €€ tion) This lovely restaurant squirrelled away (Map p180; %0537 70 91 30; Le Piétri Urban Hotel, 4 Rue Tobrouk; mains from Dh80; hlunch & dinner) behind a wooden door in the depths of the medina is reason enough to come to Rabat. This newly refurbished restaurant is where Set in a gorgeous riad, it dishes up gourmet

184 Agdal dishes up a seasonal menu of vitamin- five-course dinners featuring anything from packed salads and sandwiches, very special juicy tajines or pastilla to stuffed calamari. desserts and fresh fruit juices, and they de- liver from 8am to 10pm Monday to Saturday. Restaurant Dinarjat MOROCCAN €€€ (Map p174; %0537 72 42 39; 6 Rue Belgnaoui; meals Dh300-400; hlunch & dinner) Stylish and elegant, Dinarjat is a favourite with L’Entrecôte FRENCH €€€ (Map p174; %0537 67 11 08; 74 Blvd al-Amir Fal well-heeled locals and visitors alike. It’s set Ould Omar; mains Dh180; hlunch & dinner) The in a superb 17th-century Andalucian-style menu and attitude at this upmarket, old- house at the heart of the medina, and has style restaurant in Agdal are very French, been carefully restored and decorated in a but the dark woods and rough plaster are contemporary style but in keeping with tra- more reminiscent of Bavaria than Bordeaux. dition. The restaurant is an ode to the Arab- Steak, fish and game specialities dominate Atl antic Coast DR ArBi nAkTi ng & N i gh t l i fe Andalucian art of living with its sumptuous the classic French menu, and to further con- architecture, refined traditional food and fuse the ambience there’s jazz or traditional peaceful oud music. The tajines, couscous Spanish music at night. and salads are prepared with the freshest ingredients, using little fat, and are surpris- 6 Drinking & Nightlife ingly light. Book in advance. Many Rabat bars are pretty intimidating for Le Ziryab MOROCCAN €€€ women. The more modern, popular joints (Map p180; %0537 73 36 36; 10 Zankat Ennajar; set are a safer bet. menus from Dh400; hlunch & dinner) This chic Moroccan restaurant is in a magnificent Rabat’s nightlife is a lot more limited – building just off Rue des Consuls. The blend and subdued – than Casablanca’s but there’s of old-world character and stylish contempo- still a fairly good range of clubs to choose rary design is reflected in the excellent menu from. All the large hotels have their own dis- of interesting variations on tajine, couscous, cos, usually fairly standard fare, and there’s pastilla, and grilled meat and fish. a few try-hard theme clubs where you might need plenty of booze to numb the decor. Ex- 5 Agdal pect to pay about Dh150 to Dh200 to get in and the same for drinks, and dress up or you won’t even make it past the door. Galapagos Café CAFE € Hôtel Balima BAR (Map p174; 14 Blvd al-Amir Fal Ould Omar) Slick cafe-terrace with dark-wood panelling, con- (Map p180; %0537 70 77 55; Ave Mohammed V) Less self-conscious than the chic town bars temporary furniture and floor-to-ceiling and an excellent place to watch Rabat go by, windows. It’s popular with young profes- sionals for its ice cream, pizzas, panini and the leafy terrace in front of the Balima is a great place to just see and be seen. It’s a re- people-watching. laxed place for women and pleasantly cool Bert’s CAFE €€ on summer nights, as well as being a rarity – a place to drink a beer in public. (Map p174; %0802 00 07 07; cnr Ave de France & Rue Melouya) This very stylish cafe in smart Café Maure CAFE (Map p174; Kasbah les Oudaias) Sit back, relax and just gaze out over the estuary to Salé SELF-CATERING from this chilled, open-air cafe spread over several terraces in the Andalucian Gardens. The medina is the best place to go for Mint tea is the thing here, accompanied by self-catering supplies. The indoor fruit little almond biscuits delivered on silver and vegetable market (Map p180; trays. It’s an easy place to pass time writing Ave Hassan II) has a fantastic choice of postcards, and a relaxed venue for women. fresh produce, dried fruits and nuts. You should be able to find everything Cafetéria du 7ème Art CAFE else you need (including booze) at the surrounding stalls or along Rue Souika (Map p180; Ave Allal ben Abdallah) Set in the and near Bab el-Bouiba. shady grounds of a cinema, this popular out- door cafe attracts a mixed clientele of stu- You’ll find Western food at the vast dents and professionals. It’s a relaxed place Hypermarché Marjane (h7am-7pm) serving snacks such as pizza and panini. supermarket on the road to Salé.

185 El Rancho BAR MAPS (%0667 33 00 30; 30 Rue Mischliffen, Agdal) Rabat is one of the few places in Moroc- Tex-Mex restaurant and bar where Rabat’s co where you can get a range of topo- well-heeled go for a bite and a drink before graphical Moroccan maps and town clubbing. The atmosphere on weekends is plans. The Direction de la Cartogra- electric, when the world-music beat gets phie (%0537 23 08 30; www.ancfcc.gov. turned up a few notches. ma; Ave Hassan II Km4; h9am-3.30pm) sells topography maps, but staff can Le Puzzle BAR be sensitive about selling some maps. Take your passport. Most maps need (Map p174; %0537 67 00 30; 79 Ave ibn Sina, Agdal; to be ordered and can be picked up 48 hclosed lunch Sun) Happening bar-restaurant hours later. in Agdal, favoured by suburban sophisti- cates. It has a strange mix of traditional style and modern design but pulls in the punters Atl antic Coast RE nA tBeArTta i nmen t with half-price beer and daily live gigs (ex- cept for Wednesday and Sunday karaoke nights). Cinéma du 7ème Art CINEMA (Map p180; %0537 73 38 87; Ave Allal ben Abdal- lah; admission Dh20) A good bet for more local Henry’s Bar BAR offerings and art-house films, this cinema (Map p180; Pl des Alaouites) If you’re in search shows mainly Moroccan, Middle Eastern of old-time local haunts rather than squeaky-clean trendsetters, there are some and European movies. dingy bars around Pl des Alaouites. Henry’s 7 Shopping is an old favourite, a staunchly male-only preserve where the smoke is thick and the Rabat’s great shopping secret is its laid-back alcohol neat. It’s open all day but closes by merchants. There’s little pressure to buy, so about 10pm. you can stroll the stalls in relative peace, but there is also less room to bargain. The souqs Amnesia CLUB still have a fair selection of good handicrafts, particularly in and around Rue des Consuls (Map p180; %0612 99 11 90; 18 Rue de Monastir) in the medina and Blvd Tariq al-Marsa to- The hippest club in downtown Rabat, this wards the kasbah. You’ll find everything in US-themed place (complete with a diner- this area from jewellery, silks and pottery to style back room) buzzes most nights of the zellij and carved wooden furniture. week. The music is pretty standard chart pop and the young socialites who come here Weaving is one of the most important just lap it up. traditional crafts in Rabat, and the more formal, Islamic style is still favoured. On 5th Avenue CLUB Tuesday and Thursday mornings women de- scend from the villages to auction their car- (Map p174; 5 Ave Bin al-Widane, Agdal) Another pets to local salesmen at the carpet souq off US-themed bar, this one styled on a Moroc- Rue des Consuls, a great sight even though can impression of New York, it plays a better tourists are not allowed in on the action. range of music than the others and features everything from hip hop to techno to Mid- For fixed prices head for the Ensemble dle Eastern. Artisanal (Map p174; %0537 73 05 05; Blvd Tariq al-Marsa), which sells a good range of crafts. 3 Entertainment For ceramics, your best bet is to head across to Salé to the Complexe des Potiers (p189). Rabat has a large international community and plenty of young, well-heeled and well- 88 Information educated locals looking for entertainment so there’s usually a good choice of events on EMERGENCY offer. Check Ocine.ma (http://ocine.ma) for SAMU (%0537 73 73 73; h24hr) Private listings. Most films are dubbed in French, ambulance service. unless marked as ‘version originale’. SOS Médecins (%0537 20 21 23; house call Dh400; h24hr) Doctors on call. Cinéma Renaissance CINEMA (Map p180; %0537 72 21 68; 266 Ave Mohammed INTERNET ACCESS V; orchestra/balcony Dh40/50) Large cinema Internet (Map p180; Rue Tanta; per hr Dh8; complex on the main drag showing main- h9am-7.30pm) Next to the Mamma Italia stream Hollywood flicks. restaurant.

186 Atl antic Coast GR Ae tBtAiTng There & Away Nador Dh155, 9½ hours, one daily MEDICAL SERVICES Oujda Dh155, 9½ hours, one daily Town pharmacies open nights and weekends Tangier Dh100, 4½ hours, five daily on a rotational basis; check the rota posted in Tetouan Dh100, five hours, one daily French and Arabic in all pharmacy windows. Hôpital Ibn Sina/Avicennes (%0537 67 28 CAR 71, emergencies 0537 67 44 50; Pl Ibn Sina, Rabat has no shortage of local car-rental agen- Agdal; h24hr) Medical service. cies – most of which offer cheaper rates than these international agencies. MONEY Avis (Map p180; %0537 72 18 18; 7 Rue Abou Numerous banks (with ATMs) are concentrated Faris al-Marini) along Ave Mohammed V and the parallel Ave Al- Budget (Map p180; %0530 20 05 20; Rabat lal ben Abdallah, including Banque Populaire. Ville train station, Ave Mohammed V) BMCE (Map p180; Ave Mohammed V; Europcar (Map p180; %0537 72 23 28; 25 Rue h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri) Bank with ATM. Patrice Lumumba) Hertz (Map p180; %0537 70 73 66; 467 Ave POST Mohammed V) DHL (Map p174; %0537 77 99 34; Ave de City-centre parking restrictions apply from 8am France, Agdal) to noon and 2pm to 7pm Monday to Saturday; Main Post Office (Map p180; cnr Rue metered parking costs Dh3 per hour. There’s Soékarno & Ave Mohammed V; h8.30am- a convenient car park near the junction of Ave 4.30pm Mon-Fri) Hassan II and Ave Mohammed V. TOURIST INFORMATION TAXI Office National Marocain du Tourisme Grands taxis leave for Casablanca (Dh40, one (ONMT; %0537 67 40 13; visitmorocco@onmt. hour) from just outside the intercity bus sta- org.ma; cnr Rues Oued el-Makhazine & Zalaka, tion. Other grands taxis leave for Fez (Dh60, 2½ Agdal; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri) Smiles and hours), Meknès (Dh45, 90 minutes) and Salé vacant faces await at this bureaucratic office. A (Dh5) from a lot off Ave Hassan II behind the better bet is to pick up the useful tourist listing Hôtel Bou Regreg. pamphlet Clips Rabat, available at many hotels and upmarket restaurants. TRAIN Train is the most convenient way to arrive in 88 Getting There & Away Rabat, as the Rabat Ville train station is right in the centre of town (not to be confused with AIR Rabat Agdal train station to the west of the city). Tiny Rabat-Salé Airport, 10km northeast of The station has a food court and wi-fi, as well as town, only has a clutch of international flights to Budget car-rental and Supratours offices. Paris and Madrid. A grand taxi to the airport will cost about Dh250. There are no buses. Trains run every 30 minutes from 6am to 10.30pm between Rabat Ville and Casa Port BUS train stations (Dh35, one hour) and Kenitra Rabat has two bus stations – the main gare (Dh10, 30 minutes). Taking the train to Moham- routière (Map p174) where most buses depart med V International Airport (Dh75, 1½ hours) and arrive, and the less chaotic CTM station, in Casablanca requires a change at Casa Voy- situated about 3km southwest of the city centre ageurs or at Aïn Sebaa. on the road to Casablanca. The main station has a left-luggage service (per item per day Dh5; On all long-distance routes there’s always one h 6am-11pm). To get to the town centre from late-night ordinaire train among the rapide serv- either station, take bus 30 (Dh5), the tram or a ices (see p490 for information about train class- petit taxi (Dh30). es). Second-class rapide services include Fez (Dh80, three hours, hourly), Marrakesh (Dh120, Arriving by bus from the north, you may pass 4½ hours, nine daily), Meknès (Dh 65, two hours, through central Rabat, so it’s worth asking if you hourly), Oujda (Dh180, nine hours, three daily) can be dropped off in town. Otherwise, you could and Tangier (Dh95, four hours, eight daily). save some time by alighting at Salé and taking the tram into central Rabat. Buses include: 88 Getting Around Agadir Dh220, 10 hours, three daily Casablanca Dh35, 1½ hours, every hour BUS Er-Rachidia Dh155, 10 hours, one daily Some useful bus routes (Dh4): Fez Dh70, 3½ hours, nine daily Buses 2 & 4 Ave Moulay Hassan to Bab Zaer, Laâyoune Dh420, 22½ hours, one daily for the Chellah. Marrakesh Dh130, five hours, 10 daily Bus 3 Rabat Ville train station to Agdal.

187 Buses 12 & 13 Pl Melilla to Salé. Spanish freebooters attacked in 1260; in Atl antic Coast S iaglhét s Buses 17 & 30 From near Bab al-Had to Ra- response the Merenids fortified the town, bat’s gare routière via the map office; 17 goes building defensive walls and a canal to Bab on past the zoo to Temara Plage. Mrisa to allow safe access for shipping. The Bus 33 From Bab al-Had to Temara Plage. town began to flourish and established valu- able trade links with Venice, Genoa, London TAXI and the Netherlands. Rabat’s blue petits taxis are plentiful, cheap and quick. A ride around the centre of town will As trade thrived so too did piracy, and by cost about Dh15 to Dh20. There’s a petit-taxi the 16th century the twin towns prospered rank near the entrance of the medina on Ave from the activities of the infamous Sallee Hassan II and at the train station. Note that Rovers pirates. It was here that Robinson petits taxis aren’t allowed to drive between Crusoe was brought into the town in Daniel Rabat and Salé. Defoe’s novel. TRAM By the 19th century the pirates had been The smart and efficient Rabat-Salé tramway brought under control, Rabat had been (www.tram-way.ma) system is an excellent way made capital and Salé sank into obscurity. to get around Rabat. Line 1 runs along Ave Has- san II, detouring past the Hassan Tower to Salé. 1 Sights Line 2 links Agdal to Salé, with handy stops at Rabat Ville and Salé Ville trains stations. Fares Salé is worth a day trip from Rabat. The are Dh6, bought from ticket machines on the main entrance to the medina is Bab Bou platforms (multiple journey tickets are also Haja, on the southwestern wall, which opens available). Services run every 20 minutes, 6am onto Pl Bab Khebaz. From here walk north to 10pm. to the souqs, and find the Grande Mosquée 500m further northwest along Rue Ras ash- Salé ‫سلا‬ Shajara (also known as Rue de la Grande Mosquée). Alternatively walk along the road POP 500,000 that runs inside the city walls past Bab Bou Haja and Bab Malka for a more straightfor- Still a long way from its lively counterpart ward approach. and old rival on the other bank of the Oued Bou Regreg, Salé is a quiet and traditional Grande Mosquée kind of place, where time seems to have & Medersa MOSQUE, MEDERSA stood still. However all that is about to (medersa admission Dh10) Central to life in pious Salé and one of the oldest religious change with a massive project to bring the establishments in the country, the Grand city into the 21st century that was about to be completed at the time of research: a Mosquée and its medersa are superb ex- amples of Merenid artistry. They were built new tramway, new bridge and a new de- in 1333 by Almohad Sultan Abou al-Hassan velopment with apartments and shopping malls. Ali. The mosque is closed to non-Muslims, but the splendid medersa is open as a mu- The centre of Salé feels more like a typical seum. Similar to those in Fez or Meknès, Moroccan village with its narrow alleys, old medina houses and beautiful monuments, it takes the form of a small courtyard sur- rounded by a gallery. The walls are blan- but beyond it lies a sprawling town with keted in intricate decoration, from the zellij characterless apartment buildings, mostly home to Rabat commuters. People are no- base to the carved stucco and elegant cedar woodwork. ticeably more conservative here, and the Small student cells surround the gal- dress code is a lot tighter. People began to settle in Salé in the 10th lery on the upper floor, from where you can climb to the flat roof, which has excel- century and the town grew in importance lent views of Salé and across to Rabat. The as inhabitants of the older settlement at Sala Colonia began to move across the riv- guardian who shows you around will expect a small tip. er to the new town. Warring among local tribes was still rampant at this stage and it was the Almohads who took control of Shrines NOTABLE BUILDING the area in the 12th century, establishing To the rear of the Grande Mosquée is the Zawiya of Sidi Abdallah ibn Hassoun, neighbouring Rabat as a base for expedi- the patron saint of Salé. This respected Sufi tions to Spain. died in 1604 and is revered by Moroccan

188 Salé A B1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles æ# 21 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 C D 111111111 Diar Line 2 1 4464461 1 1Mus1lim1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Ce1met1ery 1 1 1 1 1 111111111 111111111 Ave Hassan I Bab Rue Bab Sebta Sebta 4444æ# ß#1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 SALÉ ¤# Rue al-Q6 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 MEDINA 111111111 R1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 n4 ue R1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 æ# Grands Taxis to Kenitra 446446æ# asaÿ#sh71 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 111111111 # ashashi Shajara8 Atl antic Coast S laeleép i ng & E at i ng111111111 Train Station 111111111 £# 444444442 66Local Bus¤#Gare 111111111 11 1 1 1 1 11 1 11 1 5 3 Meò#dSinaalé-t¤#o›#RabaKBthabebadze Salé 2 1 1 1 1 1 11 æ# æ# Ou1ed 11 1 Bab B1ou 1 11 1 el-Jedid Place Reg1reg 11 Bab Gr1and1s 1 ð# Khebaz 11 Taxis to # Perfect Pharmacy ì# Bab ›# Bus StandLine 1 Computer î# Fès (281) 1 1 1 1 1 Bab Rabat Malka ì# 1 Bab Bou Haja Ave de la Plage Place 1 1 1 HassaALivneInIes 1 & 2 4444Ù#Beach MELLAH 4444 663 ß# Hassan II1 1 1 1 Mosque 111 Bab 1111 Mrisa 111 SALÉ -# 1111 Grands Taxis 31 1 1 to Rabat Rue al-Madarisse Bab # Lamrissa ¤# Ave de Fès Place 444A 4 B 66Bab Rih Salé C Souqs D SOUQ From the Grande Mosquée, head back to the souqs via the Rue Ras ash-Shajara, which æ Sights 1 Grande Mosquée & Medersa .................B1 becomes Rue Mellah el Kadim, a street lined 2 Koubba of Sidi ben Ashir at-Taleb.........A1 with houses built by wealthy merchants. 3 Souq el-Ghezel ........................................ B2 Shaded by trees and unchanged for centu- 4 Souq el-Kebir........................................... C2 ries, the atmospheric Souq el-Ghezel (Wool 5 Souq el-Merzouk..................................... B2 Market) makes an interesting stop. Here, men 6 Zawiya of Sidi Abdallah ibn and women haggle over the price and qual- ity of rough white wool as it hangs from an- Hassoun .................................................B1 cient scales suspended from a large tripod. 7 Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed Tijani .................. B2 ÿ Sleeping In the nearby Souq el-Merzouk, textiles, 8 The Repose...............................................B1 basketwork and jewellery are crafted and sold. Also on sale are the woven grass mats used in mosques, for which Salé is famous. travellers in much the same way as St Chris- The least interesting souq for travellers is topher is revered among Christians. An the Souq el-Kebir, featuring secondhand annual pilgrimage and procession in his clothing and household items. honour makes its way through the streets of Salé on the eve of Mouloud (the Prophet’s 4 Sleeping & Eating birthday). On this day, local fishermen dress in elaborate corsair costumes, while others Now that the tram has made Salé more ac- carry decorated wax sculptures and parade cessible, guesthouses are opening in the through the streets, ending up at the shrine medina. There are plenty of hole-in-the-wall of the marabout (saint). cafes in the souqs and surrounding streets, as well as in the area just south of Pl Bab There are two more shrines in Salé: the Khebaz. Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed Tijani, on the lane between the mosque and medersa, and the The Repose RIAD €€ white Koubba of Sidi ben Ashir at-Taleb in (%0537 88 29 58; www.therepose.com; 17 Zankat the cemetery northwest of the mosque. Talaa, Ras Chejra; ste Dh650-850; W) S This

189 traditional medina house has been care- and reaches 900°C. Fine domestic pottery fully renovated to provide four delightfully is fired in gas kilns designed to reduce en- different rooms. The leafy roof terrace is a vironmental degradation and air pollution, haven of peace and very private. The knowl- but more rustic pieces are still fired in kilns edgeable owners will help with tours and fuelled by twigs and leaves from nearby eu- cooking classes, and only vegetarian food calyptus forests. is served. The centre has a cafe and some work- 88 Information shops used by basket weavers and black- smiths. To get here, take a petit taxi from There are a few banks along Rue Fondouk Abd Salé (about Dh18) or catch bus 35 or 53 el-Handi. (Dh4) from Bab Khebaz. Perfect Computer (Bab al-Jedid; per hr Dh4; h9am-10pm) Internet access. Jardins Exotiques GARDENS Atl antic Coast AInrfoournmdatRiaobnat & S al é Pharmacy (Pl Bab Khebaz) (www.jardinsexotiques; adult/child Dh10/5; h9am- 88 Getting There & Away 5pm winter, to 7pm summer) Created by French horticulturist Marcel François in 1951, these BUS gardens were declared a Natural Heritage Salé’s main bus station is 1km east of the me- site in 2003 and reopened in 2005 after sev- dina, but buses from Rabat also stop outside eral years of restoration. They are divided Bab Mrisa. From Rabat take bus 12, 13, 14, 16 or into the Jardin Nature, plantations that 34 (Dh5) from Pl al-Mellah just off Ave Hassan II, evoke the exotic vegetation the horticultur- and get off at Bab Khebaz. This is also the place alist encountered on his many travels; the to take the bus back. Jardin Culture, referring more to the phi- losophy of the garden in different cultures; TAXI and the Jardin Didactique, with birdcages, Pick up a taxi in Rabat close to the Hôtel Bou an aquarium and a vivarium. Regreg, on Ave Hassan II; ask for the Bab Bou Colour-coded paths lead through over- Haja or Bab Mrisa. From Salé there are depar- grown Brazilian rainforest, Polynesian jungle, tures from Bab el-Jedid and Bab Mrisa (Dh4 one Japanese pleasure grounds and an Andalu- way). Note that petits taxis are not permitted to cian garden. Jardins Exotiques is managed travel between Rabat and Salé. Grands taxis for by the Mohammed VI Foundation for the Kenitra leave from just north of the train station Protection of the Environment. (Dh15). The gardens are tranquil on weekends, and are a great place to bring children. It’s TRAIN also a popular spot for courting couples. Trains run to/from Rabat, but the tram or grands The gardens are 13km north of Rabat on taxis are probably the simplest options. Trains the road to Kenitra. Take bus 28 from Ave north to Kenitra run every 30 minutes (Dh15). Moulay Hassan in Rabat, or Bab Fès, the main gate at Salé medina. TRAM The easiest way to travel between Rabat and Musée Belghazi MUSEUM Salé is by tram (Dh6). (%0537 82 21 78; www.museebelghazi.com; main collection Dh50, private rooms by reservation Dh100; h9am-7.30pm) The first museum in Morocco Around Rabat & Salé has a vast collection of traditional Andalu- cian, Jewish Moroccan and Islamic arts and 1 Sights crafts amassed by the Belghazi family. Complexe des Potiers ARTS CENTRE Displays include measuring instruments (Pottery Cooperative; hsunrise-sunset) The vil- (one of the first Belghazis was an astrologist lage of Oulja, 3km southeast of Salé, is home at the Qarawiyin court in Fez), 17th-century to the Complexe des Potiers, which produces carpets, exquisitely carved wooden minbars a huge range of ceramics. The potters work (mosque pulpits), doors and ceilings dating at the back of the complex, bringing in clay from the 10th century, intricate gold and from a rich seam in the surrounding hills silver jewellery, exceptional pottery and em- (you’ll see it on the left as you drive in), broidery from Fez, and miniature copies of throwing and turning it on kick wheels, the Quran. There is a boutique with souve- then glazing and firing the finished pieces nirs and a restaurant. in enormous kilns. A firing takes 15 hours

190 More than 200 species of birds have been The museum is 17km from Salé on the spotted here and many choose to winter or nest here – among them a number of rare or road to Kenitra. Take bus 28 from Ave Mou- endangered species. This is one of the last lay Hassan in Rabat or from the main gate places on earth where you can still see large of the Salé medina. numbers of marbled ducks, distinguished by the dark patch around their eyes. Other Temara Plage BEACH birds to look out for include the beauti- ful marsh owl (seen most often at dusk), There are beautiful beaches close to Rabat, the crested coot, black-shouldered kite and such as the wild and sandy Temara Plage, greater flamingo. 13km southwest of the city, popular with surfers and sunbathers alike. It can be The information centre (%0537 74 72 09; reached on bus 17 from Bab al-Had in Rabat. hnoon-4pm Sat & Sun) on the northern side of the lake is useful but has limited open- Atl antic Coast MS ioguhltasy B ousselham Plage des Nations BEACH ing hours. The clean, sandy strip of beach at Plage des To get to the lake follow the signposts Nations, 17km north of Rabat, is a popular from the beach road to Mehdiya Plage, spot with Rabat locals. It gets some serious 300m past the Cafe Restaurant Belle Vue. If wave action good for surfers, but the cur- you’re on foot, the lake is a 3.3km walk from rents can be dangerous for swimming. the turn-off. Above the beach, the Hôtel Firdaous (%0537 82 21 31; www.hotelfird.com; r Dh600; s) Moulay Bousselham is remarkable for its original ’70s decor. The ‫مولاي بوسلهام‬ peeling paint, rusty radiators and threadbare carpets are only just mitigated by rooms The idyllic fishing village of Moulay Bous- with ocean views and new bathrooms. Book selham is a tranquil place, protected by in advance to have any chance of a room in the shrines of two local saints. The village summer. is slowly expanding, as retired Europeans To get to the beach, drive north as far are starting to buy homes here. There is as the Musée Belghazi and turn left down a sweeping beach (empty for most of the a road known as Sidi Bouknadel. Bus 9 or year), friendly people, good fish restau- 48 from Rabat or Salé will drop you at the rants and an impressive, internationally turn-off, from where it’s a 2km walk to the important wildfowl reserve. Except for beach past huge developments of holiday the summer months, this is a great place apartments. to spend a few days, with little more to do than birdwatching, fishing or strolling Mehdiya Plage BEACH along the beach. Surfers come here for the crashing waves, but the strong currents are North along the coast, 50km from Rabat, dangerous for swimmers. In summer the is another strip of beach lined with holiday pace changes dramatically as the village be- homes and beach bars, but here the cur- comes a low-key resort for Moroccans, and rents are dangerous for swimmers. It gets the inhabitants swell from around 1000 to busy with day trippers in summer but is 65,000 people. deserted for the rest of the year. There are regular trains from Rabat to Kenitra, from Moulay Bousselham is named after a where you take bus 9 or 15 to Mehdiya. 10th-century Egyptian saint who is com- Both of these buses (Dh6) and grands taxis memorated in one of the koubbas (shrines) (Dh10) leave from the corner of Rue du Souk that line the slope down to the sea, and el-Baladia and Ave Mohammed Diouri in guards the mouth of the river. Moroccans Kenitra. seeking a cure for psychological problems are locked into the tomb for 24 hours. Lac de Sidi Bourhaba OUTDOORS Across the river is another shrine of Sidi Abd el-Galil, believed to cure sterile wom- Inland from Mehdiya is the beautiful fresh- en. You’ll find everything you need along water Lac de Sidi Bourhaba, part of a larger the one main street, including a bank, post protected wetland reserve. As a refuelling office, pharmacy and a couple of internet stop for thousands of birds migrating be- cafes, but there’s no alcohol in town. tween Europe and sub-Saharan Africa, the lake provides some of the best birdwatching in the country, especially between October and March. It’s also a great place for gentle hiking, with well-appointed walking trails in the forested hills around the lake.

1 Sights 4 Sleeping & Eating 191 Merja Zerga National Park PARK Hôtel Le Lagon HOTEL € (%0537 43 26 50; fax 0537 43 26 49; d Dh300; One of the great pleasures of Morocco’s At- s) The saving grace of this faded ’70s hotel lantic coast is to take a boat out on Merja Zerga (the Blue Lagoon), preferably with a is its stunning location overlooking the la- goon below. The rooms are big, bright and bird guide who can bring the place to life. clean, but in dire need of updating. The The 73-sq-km Merja Zerga National Park (4 sq km of water and the rest marshland) is large terrace makes up for that. The restau- rant is mediocre, and the swimming pool protected by the Ramsar Convention and and nightclub are only open in July and attracts thousands of migrant birds, in- cluding wildfowl, waders and flamingos in August. huge numbers, making it one of Morocco’s Camping Caravaning Atl antic Coast MS ioguhltasy B ousselham prime birdwatching habitats. The lagoon is between 50cm and 4m deep depending on International CAMPGROUND € (%0537 43 24 77; www.atlantisgatemb@yahoo. the tide. Ninety percent of the water comes fr; 2-person tent/camping/car Dh60/70/30, extra from the sea, 10% is sweetwater from the Oued Dredr, south of the lagoon. At the time person Dh13; s) An excellent site in a superb location, open all year. of research, the new tourist office was not yet open. Villanora B&B €€ (%0537 43 20 71, 0664 87 20 08; http://villanora Although the largest flocks are present in morocco.ifrance.com; s/d incl breakfast Dh300/ December and January, you’ll find herons, flamingos, ibises, spoonbills, plovers and 400, with sea view Dh400/500; W) This B&B, egrets here as late as March or April, and the holiday home of an English family who there are about 100 species all year round. fell in love with this quiet corner of Mo- The calm lagoon is also a good place to see rocco, sits on top of a high dune with glori- slender-billed and Audouin’s gulls, and the ous ocean views. It’s run by the Anglophile African marsh owl. Shelducks, teals and Mohammed, a family friend. There are just numerous terns are frequently seen, as are a few homey rooms (some with shared marsh harriers and peregrine falcons. bathroom) where you can fall asleep to the There are six villages around the lake, sound of crashing waves, and breakfast is four of which depend on agriculture, two served on the terrace. Dinner is available on fishing – the men fish the lagoon and the if booked in advance – ask for the fish. Vil- ocean while the women gather shellfish. lanora is at the far northern end of town, Most of the fishermen take tourists about 2km from the main street. Booking around the lake as a sideline. Boat trips with ahead is recommended. the local boatmen, who have had some guide training, are easily arranged if you wander La Maison des Oiseaux B&B €€ (%061 30 10 67, 0537 43 25 43; http://moulay. down to the small beach where the boats bousselham.free.fr; half board per person Dh350) are moored. Expect to pay about Dh100 per hour for the boat. The only officially recog- Another friendly guesthouse set in a lovely garden with nine simple but beautifully nised (and by far the best) guide is Hassan styled traditional rooms. There’s a seminar Dalil (%0668 43 41 10; guide half-day Dh200, plus motorboat per hr Dh100), who can also be con- room upstairs for visiting school groups and birdwatching excursions can be arranged tacted at the Café Milano (on the main road for Dh200 to Dh300 for 2½ hours. The into town), where the bird log is kept. Call him rather than ask for him as several peo- guesthouse is hidden down a maze of sandy lanes to the left as you drive into town. Ask ple have been known to pretend to be him in around or call for directions. order to take his business. Otherwise ask the waiters at the Café Milano to call him. Trips can also be arranged through Villanora. Restaurant l’Ocean SEAFOOD, MOROCCAN € (%0678 31 09 54, 0669 43 42 45; mains Dh50; The boatmen can also arrange fishing trips hlunch & dinner) The road down to the sea- (Dh100 per hour, including equipment). Hard-core birdwatchers may also want to front is lined with cafes and restaurants serving platters of grilled fish and tajines. explore Merja Khaloufa, an attractive lake One of the best is this small place, with a ter- about 8km east of Moulay Bousselham and part of the park, which offers good viewing race, serving excellent fish, couscous, tajines and paella. of a variety of wintering wildfowl.

192 88 Getting There & Away the old cobbled medina, through Bab al- Khemis, a large, unmistakable Hispano- Moulay Bousselham is about 40km due south of Moorish arch on Pl de la Libération. You Larache. To get here by public transport you’ll come immediately into a colonnaded mar- need to detour to the little town of Souk el-Arba ket square, the bustling Zoco de la Alcaice- du Rhurb (grand taxi from Larache Dh35, 45 ria, which was built by the Spaniards during minutes), from where there are frequent grands their first occupation of Larache in the 17th taxis (Dh20, 45 minutes) and a few buses (Dh12, century. The Archaeological Museum was 45 minutes) to Moulay Bousselham. You can closed at the time of research. get to Souk el-Arba du Rhurb by grand taxi from Kenitra or Rabat (Dh40, 1½ hours). A private Casbah de la Cigogne LANDMARK grand taxi from Larache to Moulay Bousselham costs around Dh200. (Fortress of the Storks) South of the square, through the medina, is this 17th-century Atl antic Coast LG aertatci nhge There & Away fortification built by the Spaniards under Larache ‫العرائش‬ Philip III. Unfortunately, the building is not open to visitors. Larache, like the other towns on this stretch of coast, is sleepy and laid-back for most of the year, bursting into life in summer when Jean Genet’s Grave LANDMARK Moroccan tourists come to the beach. The To the west of town, the old Spanish cem- etery is the final resting place of French charming town otherwise sees few visitors. writer Jean Genet (1910–86). If the gate is The new town has some grand Spanish-era architecture, particularly around the central locked, ring the bell for the caretaker. A small tip is expected for showing you to the Pl de la Libération (the former Plaza de Es- grave. paña), while the tiny crumbling medina is worth a stroll. North of the river Loukos on Galerie Afnar GALLERY the edge of town sit the overgrown ruins of (%0613 68 14 24; www.lafnargalerie.blogspot. com; 58 Assadr Alaadam; h10am-2pm & 4-9pm) ancient Lixus, the legendary site of the Gar- This gallery shows interesting local art and den of the Hesperides. Larache was occupied by the Spanish for photography. The building itself is an old wheat fondouq (rooming house). A plaque most of the 17th century. The port activities on the outside identifies it as the site of the were limited because of some dangerous sandbars offshore, but the locals made ships house of Averroes, the famous 12th-century Andalucian philosopher. for the corsairs further south. It became the main port of the Spanish protector- ate in 1911. Today the whitewashed houses Music Conservatory NOTABLE BUILDING with blue doors, the church, the market, the On the square northeast of the Casbah de la Cigogne and opposite the closed Archaeo- hotels and bars still reveal the strength of logical Museum, you’ll come across a large, the Spanish influence. The town may be as picturesque as Assilah, but it gets far fewer remarkably ornate building with its own minaret. This is now the music conservatory visitors and has none of the hustle. and is worth a peek. All Larachians seem to come out for the paseo (evening stroll) in the centre of town. The cafes and few restaurants fill up as the Beaches BEACH locals drink coffee, play cards and chew over Larache has a small strip of sand below the town but the best beach is 7km north across the day’s events, and by 10pm the streets are the Loukos Estuary. This beach also has a again deserted. The French writer Jean Genet loved the huge holiday resort, Port Lixus, with a golf course, several resort hotels, villas and a bay of Larache and although he died in luxury marina. A petit taxi will cost around France, he was buried here. Dh20, or takes buses 4 or 5 from opposite the Casbah de la Cigogne, which drop you at the 1 Sights Lixus turn-off, around 3km from the beach. Old Town HISTORIC SITE 4 Sleeping Perched on a cliff top overlooking the ocean Larache has a small but decent selection is the ruin of the kasbah (Qebibat), a 16th- of accommodation, most of which is clus- century fortress built by the Portuguese and tered along the streets just south of Pl de la closed to visitors as it is now in a state of Libération. serious disrepair. Head south from here to

193 Pension Amal HOTEL € Larache e# 0 100 m (%0539 91 27 88; 10 Rue Abdallah ben Yassine; s/d 0.05 miles 777ulately kept and extremely friendly, this little e 0# AB without bathroom Dh55/80) Dirt cheap, immac- Mä#ED5 INALarache-Tangi er H wy pension is a bargain with tiled rooms with 777shared facilities (hot showers are Dh10). The mattresses are renewed every year and the 1 1 777son are very friendly and helpful. Zoco de laca3 beds are comfortable. The owner and his CasRaubleadne dR'Eusepagne â# #úAve1JGM1eIrsoaaú#munv9ÿ#laeaG1iyl(0e8#ìLn0ieb0tPRd'émsluera)eÿ#ac6latdeiú#eo#æ11nS3a#úì#leÿ#1A2lc8ì#ß#ai#cGMò#eHTroreioasaawlqltune#æ2M#æ4oß#sLOqouuoe#tk 777(%0539 91 31 95; http://hotelespanalarache.com; Hôtel España HOTEL € 6 Ave Hassan II; s/d Dh260/380; aW) A vener- 777able colonial-era institution, this hotel is a 7 D Atl antic Coast EL atriancghe ÿ# Blvd great place to stay. The decor is still old-style 2 2 Mohammed V with dark wood furnishings, but the beds Ave Mohammed ben Abdallah Ave Hassan Dare comfortable, the rooms spotless and the bathrooms modernised. Rooms higher up ì# get less noise from the square, and balcony Marnet .# Port (1km); ð# Lixus (4km) views are great. There’s no breakfast, but Rue du Caire there are lots of cafes nearby. 66Hôtel Somarían ll 111 111 HOTEL € 3 111 31 1 1 (%0539 91 91 16; [email protected]; 68 Ave Grands 111D Mohammed Zerktouni; s/d Dh300/400) A mod- ›#˜T#axis ern hotel across the street from the covered A Ksar el-Kebir 1 1 1 central market. Rooms are well-presented (36km); Assilah 1 1 1 1 1 1 and comfortable, with occasional cramped (42km) 66and crazy angles from the shape of the build- B ing. There’s no breakfast; later in the day the Larache ground-floor restaurant serves alcohol. æ Sights 1 Bab al-Khemis ..........................................A1 oLa Maison Haute RIAD €€ 2 Casbah de la Cigogne............................. B2 (%0665 34 48 88; http://lamaisonhaute.free.fr; 3 Galerie Afnar.............................................B1 4 Music Conservatory ............................... B2 6 Derb ben Thami; r Dh440-550, apt Dh700-924) 5 Ruin of the Kasbah...................................A1 The most atmospheric accommodation in Larache, this wonderfully restored Hispano- Moorish house in the medina has a choice of ÿ Sleeping six charming rooms with modern bathrooms. 6 Hôtel España ........................................... A2 Eclectic decor, bright colours, stained-glass 7 Hôtel Somarían ....................................... A2 windows and Spanish tiled floors give this 8 La Maison Haute ......................................B1 place a feeling of simplicity, warmth and tra- 9 Pension Amal .......................................... A2 dition, while the roof terrace boasts incred- ú Eating ible views of the ocean and market square, 10 Balcón Atlantico.......................................A1 and offers a nice corner to read a book or 11 Casa Ché.................................................. A2 sunbathe. There’s dinner on request. 12 Restaurant Commercial ........................ B2 13 Restaurant Puerta Del Sol..................... A2 5 Eating Eating out in Larache is cheap and cheerful ket, bedecked with portraits of Che Guevara. with plenty of little places around Pl de la Mains come with a few tapas starters and a Libération and the Zoco de la Alcaiceria. The small side of paella. Spanish influence lingers on in the paella served in most restaurants, and the churros Balcón Atlantico CAFE € (a kind of doughnut) on the main square. (%5395 91 01 10; cnr Rue de Casablanca & Rue Ta- rik Ibnou Ziad; h9am-10pm) Overlooking the Casa Ché SEAFOOD € beach, and the nicest spot in town for a re- (%0677 83 02 00;Ave MohammedZerktouni; mains around Dh50; hlunch & dinner) Great-value sea- laxed breakfast or simple lunch, this bustling cafe has plenty of outdoor seating and pass- food cafeteria near the covered central mar- able pizzas, though service is very slow.

194 Restaurant Commercial MOROCCAN € goat quietly grazing. A new visitor centre (Pl de la Libération; mains Dh40; hlunch & dinner) is under construction near the site entrance. The locals’ favourite, this basic place on the In the meantime, there’s no entrance fee, but main square does a roaring trade in simple you should tip the site guardian after your soup, brochettes and fried fish. It’s ultra tour. cheap, has friendly service, is packed with happy diners every night and is a great place History for people-watching. Megalithic stones found in the vicinity of Restaurant Puerta Del Sol MOROCCAN € Lixus suggest that the site was originally (%0539 91 36 41; 5 Rue Ahmed Chaouki; mains inhabited by a sun-worshipping people with Dh40; hlunch & dinner) For seafood and a knowledge of astronomy and mathematics. choice of Moroccan dishes, this no-nonsense However, little more is known about the Atl antic Coast IL inxfuosrmat i on place is a good bet. area’s prehistory until the Phoenicians set up the colony Liks here in about 1000 BC. 88 Information According to Pliny the Elder, it was here that Hercules picked the golden apples of the The banks cluster at the northern end of Blvd Garden of the Hesperides, thus completing Mohammed V; most accept cash and travellers the penultimate of his 12 labours. The gold- cheques and have ATMs. en apples may well have been the famous Marnet (Ave Mohammed ben Abdallah; per Moroccan tangerines. hr Dh6; h10.30am-midnight Sat-Thu, 3pm- midnight Fri) Internet access. In the 6th century BC the Phoenician Atlantic colonies fell to the Carthaginians. 88 Getting There & Away Lixus remained a trading post, principally in gold, ivory and slaves and, by AD 42, had The bus station is south of the town centre on entered the Roman Empire. Its primary Rue du Caire. Most major destinations are cov- exports soon changed to salt, olives, wine ered by CTM including Agadir (Dh280, 12 hours), and garum (an aromatic fish paste) and its Casablanca (Dh110, four hours, five daily), Fez merchants also grew rich from the export of (Dh85, 4½ hours, four daily), Marrakesh (Dh180, wild animals for use in the empire’s amphi- 8½ hours, daily) and Tangier (Dh35, 2½ hours, theatres. six daily). The colony at Lixus rapidly declined as Cheaper non-CTM buses are generally more the Romans withdrew from North Africa, frequent. They cover the same destinations as and was abandoned completely in the 5th CTM buses, as well as Ouezzane (Dh30), Tet- century, after the collapse of the Roman Em- ouan (Dh25) and Kenitra (Dh35). pire. Later, the site became known to Mus- lims as Tuchummus. Grands taxis run from outside the bus station to Ksar el-Kebir (Dh13), Assilah (Dh20), Souk 1 Sights el-Arba (Dh25) and Tangier (Dh35). Lixus ‫الاوكوس‬ Ruins HISTORIC SITE The main gate to Lixus is in the green rail- ings that border the Larache–Tangier road. Set on a hill overlooking the Loukos Estu- Inside the railings to the left are the remains ary are the Carthaginian and Roman ruins of Lixus F, a rather mysterious and of the garum factories, where fish was salt- neglected site that is one of the oldest in- ed and the prized paste produced, beloved in Rome (in a neat parallel, nearby Assilah still habited places in the country. Only about has an anchovy paste factory today). A grav- a quarter of the ancient city has been ex- cavated but the visible ruins, though badly el path leads up the hill from the gate past a number of minor ruins to the public baths damaged and overgrown, are impressive. and amphitheatre. The amphitheatre pro- Although not as extensive or as well exca- vated as Volubilis, the location, size and se- vides impressive views of the surrounding countryside and makes a wonderful place renity of Lixus give it a lingering sense of just to sit and relax. gravitas and with a little imagination you can picture just how grand and important Most mosaics from the site were removed and are now on display at the archaeology this city once was. museum in Tetouan. The Grand Temple mo- Few visitors make it here outside the summer months, and in winter your only saics depicting Helios, Mars and Rhea, the three Graces, and Venus with Adonis are all companions will be the wind and the odd

195 there. The only remaining mosaic at Lixus is History Atl antic Coast GA sest itli anhg There & Away that of Oceanus (the Greek Sea God). Un- fortunately, it’s been exposed both to the ele- Assilah has had a turbulent history as a ments and to local vandalism, so is in rough small but strategic port since it began life as shape. the Carthaginian settlement of Zilis. During the Punic Wars the people backed Carthage, Continue up the path to the main assem- and when the region fell to the Romans, the bly of buildings, which straddle the crest locals were shipped to Spain and replaced of the hill. From here there are incredible with Iberians. From then on, Assilah was in- views down over the Loukos Estuary and exorably linked with the Spanish and with salt fields below. their numerous battles for territory. The civic buildings, additional public As Christianity conquered the forces of baths and original city ramparts are here, Islam on the Iberian Peninsula in the 14th while to the south is the striking citadel, a and 15th centuries, Assilah felt the knock-on flurry of closely packed ruins standing stark effects. In 1471 the Portuguese sent 477 ships against the sky. Although most of the antiq- with 30,000 men, captured the port and uities are in an advanced state of decay, you built the walls that still surround the medi- should be able to make out the main tem- na, a trading post on their famous gold route ple and associated sanctuaries, an oratory, across Africa. In 1578, King Dom Sebastian more public baths and the remains of the of Portugal embarked on an ill-fated crusade city walls. from Assilah. He was killed, and Portugal (and its Moroccan possessions) passed into 88 Getting There & Away the hands of the Spanish, who remained for a very long time. Lixus is approximately 4.5km north of Larache on the road to Tangier. To get there take bus 9 Assilah was recaptured by Moulay Ismail from outside the Casbah de la Cigogne (Dh5). A in 1691. In the 19th century, continuing pira- petit taxi costs about Dh25 one way; it’s also on cy prompted Austria and then Spain to send the Larache–Assilah grand taxi route. their navies to bombard the town. Its most famous renegade was Er-Raissouli, one of Assilah ‫أصيلا‬ the most colourful bandits ever raised in the wild Rif Mountains. Early in the 20th cen- The gorgeous whitewashed resort town of tury, Er-Raissouli used Assilah as his base, Assilah feels like somewhere on a Greek becoming the bane of the European powers. island, but the tapas and paella on the Spain made Assilah part of its protectorate Spanish menus in the restaurants and the from 1911 until 1956. wrought-iron windows on the white houses are but a few reminders that the town was 1 Sights Spanish territory for a long time. Assilah is an easy and hassle-free introduction to Mo- With more than 50 resident artists, five rocco and, with a good selection of budget galleries and several artist studios and ex- hotels and restaurants plus a burgeoning art hibition spaces, Assilah is renowned as a scene, the town has become a favourite stop city of arts. It all started in 1978 when sev- on the traveller’s trail of the North Atlantic eral Moroccan artists were invited to hold coast. workshops for local children and to paint The old medina has been seriously gentri- some walls in the medina as part of the fied in the last few years as more and more town’s moussem (saint’s day celebrations). houses have been bought by affluent Moroc- Several Zaïlachi artists and some of these cans and Europeans, mainly Spanish. The children have now made their name in the town is sleepy for most of the year, but in the contemporary-art world, among them the summer months the population grows from late Abdelilah Bououd, Brahim Jbari, Elina 12,000 to 110,000, when Moroccan families Atencio, Mohamed Lhaloui and several descend here, as elsewhere along the coast. members of the Mesnani family. The small town is then completely over- run, the beaches are packed and the touts Ramparts & Medina HISTORIC BUILDING, MEDINA come out in force. The best time to visit is in Assilah’s largely residential medina is sur- spring or autumn when the weather is still rounded by the sturdy stone fortifications pleasant but the crowds are gone. built by the Portuguese in the 15th century and it is these walls, flanked by palms, that have become the town’s landmark.

196 4444446D£#(2km) Assilah e# 0 200 m A 0 0.1 miles BCD Abeven AAlbladlullah 4Ruâ#eAavl-eKaHs#ú1aaa8ssbsasaannÿ#12b7IIe01#ún2#úT2#úaî#b5it1Rÿ#19R3uueeMAobuldú#1aP5yeeHltMiatssRsubaTenaeixbnbNeinsnAO˜#R2ì#VeloU2ilcI-PMMVLh2ì#ldLeEoa3hEchLAdeaLviAemEvAMevmeMelielaAlMaduvero5ñ#ViHitbhaÜ#onnatSiem#ú1›#aMiln6(Aea3oP1ÿ#l(d5-s2o4A0Vq5sGlmItb0uTr(ß#Oaam)e5afx0n)f˜#iimdsces) 4444441 444444464444644446D2 44444444466446644663 NPoerwt Rue H Ave duSPidriinMceohHaemrietider 1 Rue Ahmed M'dem 2 Atl antic Coast SAisgshi ltash Lookout Point, 3 Koubba of Sidi Mansuræ# AveRuMeoThaarfamyamed V D & Mujaheddin Graveyard (200m) 3 D 9 â# Place 21ü# 8 Abdellah â# 6 Guennoun 7 ß# â# D MEDINA æ# 2 Rue Imam al-Assili â# 1 Bÿ#atouta Ave Hassan II 11 Rue ibn ÿ# 10 1111111 24 ð# 1111111 1111111 1111111 1111111 4 41 1 1 1 1 1 1 1111111 1111111 1111111 1111111 1111111 A B C D1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1111111 The medina and ramparts have been eroded Portuguese royal coat of arms. There restored in recent years and the tranquil are a few old cannons just inside the medi- narrow streets lined by whitewashed hous- na’s seaward wall, but they are cut off from es are well worth a wander. Although the the walkway below and can only be seen from restoration work has left the medina much a distance. The Bab al-Kasaba leads to the sanitised, the ornate wrought-iron win- Great Mosque (closed to non-Muslims) and dow guards, pale-green jalousies (wooden, the Centre de Hassan II Rencontres Interna- trellis-like window shutters) and colourful tionales. The medina is busiest on Thursdays, murals (painted each year during the Assi- Assilah’s main market day. lah Festival) give it a very photogenic qual- ity. Craftspeople and artists have opened Palais de Raissouli HISTORIC BUILDING workshops along the main streets and in- vite in passers-by to see them work. Also known as the Palais de Culture (Palace of Culture) on the sea side of the medina, the Access to the ramparts is limited. The palace was built in 1909 by Er-Raissouli and southwestern bastion is the best spot for still stands as a testament to the sumptuous views over the ocean and is a popular spot at life he led at the height of his power. It has sunset. It also offers a peek into the nearby been beautifully restored, but is only open Koubba of Sidi Mansur (which is otherwise during the Assilah Festival or for temporary closed to non-Muslims) and the Mujahed- exhibitions, although if you can find the din Graveyard. caretaker you may be able to persuade him to let you in. The striking building includes The southern entrance to the medina, Bab a main reception room with a glass-fronted Homar (Ave Hassan II), is topped by the much- terrace overlooking the sea, from where

197 Assilah ú Eating Atl antic Coast FAesssti li vaahls & E v en t s 15 Casa García ..............................................C2 æ Sights 16 La Perle d'Assilah .................................... D1 1 Aplanos Gallery ....................................... A3 17 La Symphonie II des 2 Bab Homar............................................... B3 Douceurs ...............................................B2 3 Cannons................................................... A2 18 Medina Wall Restaurants .......................B2 4 Centre de Hassan II Rencontres 19 Restaurant la Place .................................C2 Internationales..................................... B2 20 Restaurante Oceano Casa 5 Church of San Bartolome...................... D2 Pepe .......................................................B2 6 Galerie Hakim.......................................... A3 7 Mosque..................................................... A3 û Drinking & Nightlife 8 Palais de Raissouli .................................. A3 21 Al-Madina .................................................B2 9 Ramparts & Medina................................ B2 ï Information ÿ Sleeping 22 Banque Populaire (ATM)........................C2 10 Christina's House.................................... B4 23 BMCE (ATM) ............................................C2 11 Dar Azaouia ............................................. A3 24 Cyber Haytam..........................................B4 12 Hôtel Belle Vue........................................ B3 25 Pharmacie l'Océan ..................................C2 13 Hôtel Patio de la Luna ............................ C2 14 Hôtel Sahara............................................ D2 Er-Raissouli forced convicted murderers to Beaches BEACH jump to their deaths onto the rocks 30m below. Assilah’s main beach, flanked by campsites and hotels, stretches north from town. It’s a wide sweep of golden sand and although Centre de Hassan II pleasant in low season, the crowds and noise Rencontres Internationales GALLERY from the nearby road make it much less ap- (%0539 41 70 65; [email protected]; pealing in summer. For more peace and quiet h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm, to 8pm summer) F The main exhibition space in town is head 3km south to Paradise Beach at Rmi- late, a gorgeous spot that really does live up to just inside the medina walls. It’s in a beauti- its name, though it’s not cleaned much out of ful medina house and displays a revolving exhibition of international painting and season. It’s a pleasant walk along the coast or, alternatively, hop on one of the horse-drawn sculpture in its gallery, and at times, in the carriages that ply this route in summer. A nearby El-Khamra Tower, a renovated Por- tuguese fortification located on Pl Abdellah little further on is Rada Beach, with a good beach cafe and bamboo bungalows. Guennoun. z Festivals & Events Aplanos Gallery GALLERY (%0661 99 80 30; Rue Tijara) Belgian painter Assilah Festival CULTURAL Anne-Judith Van Loock created this gallery (www.c-assilah.com; hAug) The Centre de Has- with her Moroccan husband Ahmed Ben- san II Rencontres Internationales is the raadiya, where foreign and local artists can main focus for this annual festival, when exhibit. artists, musicians, performers and some 200,000 spectators descend upon the town. Galerie Hakim GALLERY More than 30 years old, the cultural festival (%0661 79 95 35, 0539 41 88 96; hakimghailan@ features numerous workshops, public art yahoo.fr; 14 Pl Sidi ben Issa) Zaïlachi artist Hak- im Ghaïlan started this space and exhibits demonstrations, concerts, exhibitions and events with participants from all over the mainly young Moroccan artists. world. A three-day horse festival, including Church of San Bartolome CHURCH a Moroccan fantasia (musket-firing cavalry charge) takes place towards the end of the Northwest of Pl Mohammed V (the centre of three-week festival. Assilah’s small new town) is the Church of San Bartolome. Built by Spanish Franciscans 4 Sleeping in a typical colonial Moorish style, it is one of the few churches in Morocco allowed to During high season (Easter week and July to ring the bells for Sunday Mass. Nearby is the September) the town is flooded with visitors marché central (central market). so it’s advisable to book well in advance. As- silah has a limited choice of budget hotels.

Atl antic Coast SA lsesei lpai nhg198 RASCALLY ER-RAISSOULI Feared bandit, kidnapper and general troublemaker, Moulay Ahmed ben Mohammed er- Raissouli (or Raisuni) was one of Assilah’s most legendary inhabitants. He started life as a petty crook in the Rif Mountains but saw no problem in bumping off unwilling victims and was soon renowned as a merciless murderer, and feared right across the region. Internationally, Er-Raissouli was best known for kidnapping Westerners. He and his band held various luminaries to ransom, including Greek-American billionaire Ion Perdi- caris, who was ransomed in 1904 for US$70,000. In an attempt to control the unruly outlaw, consecutive sultans appointed him to various political positions, including governor of Assilah and later Tangier. However, Er-Raissouli continued with his wicked ways, amassing great wealth in whatever way he could. He held considerable sway over the Rif tribes and the Spanish funded his arms in the hope of keeping order in the mountains, but Er-Raissouli often used them against his benefactors. The Spaniards eventually forced Er-Raissouli to flee Assilah after WWI, but he con- tinued to wreak havoc in the Rif hinterland until 1925, when the Rif rebel Abd al-Krim arrested him and accused him of being too closely linked with the Spanish. Christina’s House GUESTHOUSE € oKhanfous Retreat GUESTHOUSE €€ (%0539 41 77 88, 0677 27 64 63; christina. [email protected]; 26 Rue Ibn Khatib, (www.khanfousretreat.com; Bni Meslem; r with half board Dh500 ) In a tiny village some 15km off Blvd 16 Nov; s/d/tr/q without bathroom from Assilah, the Khanfous Retreat is the Dh175/400/450/500, tw with bathroom Dh550; W) Christina’s is a friendly guesthouse that feels perfect place to escape from it all – there’s no internet or even phone signal. Chill out more like a home than a hotel. Some rooms in the charmingly rustic house, make the have shared bathrooms, but all facilities throughout are new and kept scrupulously 40-minute walk through the countryside to the beach, arrange a donkey trek or cookery clean. Breakfasts are taken together, either lesson, or just unplug wonderfully from the in the kitchen/dining room or on the roof terrace. world. It’s definitely off the beaten track, but the owner will arrange transport for you. Hôtel Belle Vue HOTEL € (%0539 41 77 47; Rue Hassan ben Tabit; s/d without bathroom Dh100/150, with bathroom Dh150/250) Hotel Al-Alba HOTEL €€ (%0649 18 28 84; www.hotelalalba.com; 35 Ave A friendly, small hotel in a quiet side street, Khalid Ibn Oualid; s Dh500-620, d Dh780-1000; with brightly painted wooden decor. Every- thing is immaculately kept, including the aW) Don’t be dismayed by the slightly cramped entrance at the Al-Alba: the rooms shared facilities. A few rooms have their are fresh and cheery, with a hint of sea own bathroom (Dh50 extra), rooms with- out have sinks. The rooms at the front with breeze in the decor and a warm welcome. The hotel has a decent restaurant, but the breezy balconies are the pick of the bunch. big bonus is the gorgeous in-house ham- The rooftop terrace is a great place for an evening drink or to relax. mam, offering a variety of treatments to pamper yourself with (Dh185 to Dh270, non-guests welcome). Hôtel Sahara HOTEL € (%0539 41 71 85; 9 Rue Tarfaya; s/d/tr without bathroom Dh100/150/240) A good cheapie, this Hôtel Patio de la Luna HOTEL €€ (%0539 41 60 74; 12 Pl Zellaka; s/d/tr small hotel offers simple rooms set around Dh350/450/450; W) The only accommodation an open courtyard. Patterned tiles and pot- ted plants adorn the entrance, and the com- option in Assilah with any local character is this intimate, Spanish-run place secluded pact rooms are well maintained (though behind an unassuming door on the main some have tiny windows). The sparkling shared toilets and hot showers (Dh5) are drag. The somewhat spartan, rustic rooms have wooden furniture, woven blankets and well-kept. tiled bathrooms and are set around a lovely