[Lonely Planet] Morocco

Grand Hôtel du Dauphiné HOTEL € 349 (Map p349; %0535 67 35 67; Pl de l’Indépendance; outside seating, but the interior is crisply s/d Dh185/290) Ideally located on the main decorated. square, the Dauphiné is good value in the La Casa MOROCCAN € (Map p349; Ave Mohammed V; mains Dh24; h8am- budget category. Rooms are hardly exciting, 6610pm) One of a rash of very modern places full but most are generously sized, and those at the front have small balconies. On the ground floor there’s a bar and restaurant Taza Ville Nouvelle (dinner only). e# 0 100 m 0 0.05 miles Hôtel La Tour Eiffel HOTEL €€ AB II VILLE (%0535 67 15 62; [email protected]; Blvd Blvd Hassan AbRuoAeuveeSlA-ulMvtHeoaahnsMasaomnhamemdmVed VI Bir Anzarane; s/d incl breakfast Dh347/424; aW) 666NOUVELLE 1 Stuck on the road out of town, the Tour Eif- fel is named for its high aspirations. Past the 1 4 ú# cramped lobby, a lift swishes you up to well- Plac6eü# 3 sized and fairly comfy rooms, many with Abdelmoumen #ú great views out towards the mountains. 1 ÿ# Place de666benAli 8#ì The house restaurant has good juices and is l'Indépendance noted for its seafood. 11 ò# 13 ˜#›# ›# 10 #1#ú2 2 5 Eating & Drinking 2 ú# 2 There aren’t really any restaurants in the 5 medina, just snack stalls selling kebabs and the like, although there is plenty of fresh pro- Imperial Cities, Middle Atl as & the E ast TEahtzeianEags&t Dri n ki n g#ì 7 duce in the souqs. In the ville nouvelle, the street souq just off Pl de l’Indépendance also 33 Blvd AllaAl vbeenMAobudlauyllaYhoussef has produce and lots of tasty snack stands that really come to life in the evening. Ave 9 ð# Mohammed V is well supplied for grocery stores. If you’re waiting for onward trans- AB port and are in need of sustenance, there’s a row of fast-food places where the buses stop Taza Ville Nouvelle on the Fez–Oujda road (Blvd Bir Anzarane). ÿ Sleeping Mou Mou FAST FOOD € 1 Grand Hôtel du Dauphiné ....................A2 (Map p349; Ave Moulay Youssef; tajines Dh25, pizzas from Dh30; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm) If you’ve been ú Eating lulled into thinking that Taza is a sleepy 2 Café Amsterdam...................................A2 place, hit this packed-out corner joint, with Grand Hôtel du Dauphiné .............(see 1) happy customers spilling out of the door. 3 La Casa................................................... A1 Tasty fast food is the order of the day here: 4 Les Deux Rives ...................................... A1 great shwarma, paninis, pizzas and juices. 5 Mou Mou ................................................A2 Les Deux Rives MOROCCAN, MEDITERRANEAN € û Drinking & Nightlife (Map p349; %0535 67 12 27; 20 Ave Mohammed VI; 6 Café la Joconda..................................... A1 mains around Dh30; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm) This fresh and cosy little restaurant is a good op- ï Information tion. The menu is a mix of Moroccan and 7 Attajariwafa Bank .................................B2 continental – some tajines, couscous and a 8 BMCI .......................................................A2 good pastilla, with a smattering of pizzas 9 Cyber Attoraya......................................B3 and grilled meat thrown in. Cyber Friwato................................(see 6) Café Amsterdam BREAKFAST € ï Transport (Map p349; Ave Moulay Youssef; pastries from Dh8; 10 Buses & Petits Taxis for h8am-noon) This is a great breakfast stop with its own patisserie so you’re never short Medina.................................................A2 of sticky pastry options. Sadly there’s no 11 Buses for Medina..................................A2 12 CTM Office.............................................A2 13 Taxi .........................................................A2

350 TAXI of chrome and black tiles, this place has a cafe Most grands taxis congregate near the train sta- at the front and restaurant at the back. They tion. They depart fairly regularly for Fez (Dh35 do the usual paninis, burgers and wraps. on the old road; Dh40 on the highway, 2½ hours). Less frequently, taxis head for Oujda (Dh100, Grand Hôtel du Dauphiné MOROCCAN €€ three hours) and Al-Hoceima (Dh75, three (Map p349; %0535 67 35 67; Pl de l’Indépendance; hours). A grand taxi return trip to the Gouffre du meals Dh80; h7-10pm) On the ground floor of Friouato costs Dh300. the hotel, the Dauphiné serves up the usual range of Moroccan standards (with some TRAIN good fish), plus a handful of continental Taza’s location on the train line makes rail the dishes thrown in. It’s pretty tasty and ef- best transport option. Three trains run to Fez ficiently served, but the big dining room (Dh56, two hours). Four continue to Meknès could use a little atmosphere. (Dh82, three hours), and three to Rabat (Dh165, 5½ hours) and Casablanca (Dh204, 6½ hours). Café la Joconda CAFE There is one direct train to Tangier (Dh212, seven hours), and three changing at Sidi Kacem (Map p349; Ave Mohammed VI; h8am-10pm) An- or Fez. In the opposite direction, three trains go other good modern cafe with plenty of pave- to Oujda (Dh111, 3½ hours). ment seating, and one that’s not threatened by the concept of female customers. Imperial Cities, Middle Atl as & the E ast JITnEhfBeoEErLamTsaAttZiZoEnK A C I R C U I T 88 Information Jebel Tazzeka Circuit Attajariwafa Bank (Map p349; Ave Moulay It’s possible to make an interesting day trip Youseff; h8.45am-4pm Mon-Thu, 8.45-11am of a circuit around Jebel Tazzeka, southwest Fri, 8.45am-noon Sat) Has an ATM. of Taza. The Hôtel La Tour Eiffel (p349) BMCI (Map p349; Pl de l’Indépendance; has a good hand-drawn map. This takes in h8.45am-4pm Mon-Thu, 8.45-11am Fri, the Cascades de Ras el-Oued at the edge of 8.45am-noon Sat) Has an ATM. Tazzeka National Park, the cave systems of Cyber Attoraya (Map p349; Rue Allal ben Gouffre du Friouato and the gorges of the Abdullah; per hr Dh5; h24hr) Oued Zireg. The scenery is grand, although Cyber Friwato (Map p349; cnr Ave Mohammed the road is very narrow and twisty in parts, VI; per hr Dh4; h9am-11pm) with plenty of blind corners from which Main Post Office (Map p349; off Rue de Maré; grands taxis can unexpectedly speed around. h 8am-4pm) Pharmacy Aharrach (Map p348; Pl Aharrach; If you don’t have a vehicle, expect to pay h 8am-6pm) around Dh600 for a grand taxi for the day Post Office (Map p348; Ave Moulay el-Hassan; from Taza, although a few direct grands tax- h8am-4pm) Opposite the main square. is to the Gouffre du Friouato can sometimes be found near the train station. 88 Getting There & Away THE FIRST LEG BUS The first stop is the Cascades de Ras el- Few buses actually originate in Taza, but plenty Oued, 10km from Taza. A popular picnic pass through on their way between Oujda and site, they’re at their grandest in the early points west of Taza such as Fez, Tangier and spring, flushed with rain and snow melt – by Casablanca, as well as to the coast. the end of summer the flow is just a trickle. Just above the waterfalls is the village of Ras The CTM office (Map p349; % 0535 67 30 el-Mar, where there’s a small cafe below the 37; Place de l’Indépendance) is located in the road, with great mountain views. The entry ville nouvelle. There’s a morning departure for to Tazzeka National Park is also near here. Casablanca (Dh175, seven hours), stopping at With its stands of cork oak you could con- Fez (Dh50, two hours), Meknès (Dh75, 3½ hours) ceivably spend a day walking here. and Rabat (Dh145, 4½ hours). Three buses leave for Tangier (Dh175, 8½ hours). There are also Leaving the waterfalls, continue along the morning services for Oujda (Dh75, three hours) right fork onto the plateau and up to a small and Nador (Dh70, three hours). pass. On your left you’ll see the strange de- pression of the Daïa Chiker, a dry lake bed. Non-CTM buses servicing these same destina- In early spring, however, a shallow lake of- tions stop near the new Fez–Oujda highway next ten forms as a result of a geological curiosity to the grand-taxi lot. It’s all a bit random, so ask associated with fault lines in the calciferous around the day before as to what’s expected – rock structure. and jump in a grand taxi if the wait seems too long.

351 GOUFFRE DU FRIOUATO On the way you will wind around hairpin Further along, 25km from Taza, the Gouffre bends through some dense woodland and du Friouato (%0668 57 61 94, 0666 01 47 90; then down through the pretty gorges of the admission Dh5, guide Dh200, protective clothing & Oued Zireg. From the intersection at Sidi headlamp Dh50; h8am-6pm) is well signpost- Abdallah de Rhiata, take the main highway ed and up a very steep road. The cavern is back east to Taza, pausing at Tizi n’Touahar the main attraction of this circuit. At over on the way for more views. 20m wide and 230m deep, it is said to be the deepest cavern in North Africa, and the Oujda ‫وجدة‬ cave system is possibly the most extensive. It was first investigated in 1935 and access POP 450,000 is via 520 precipitous steps (with handrails) that lead you to the floor of the cavern. It’s Oujda is the largest city in eastern Morocco, a strenuous climb back up, but there’s talk and its modern facade belies its millennium- of installing a lift. At the bottom, you can old age. It’s a relaxed place that seems sur- squeeze through a hole to start exploring prised to see foreign travellers, but it wasn’t the fascinating chambers that are found always like this. A quick survey of the map 200 more steps below. It’s dark and dirty and recent history gives the reason. Oujda and eerily beautiful. The most spectacular is the terminus of the train line, it has good chambers, full of extraordinary formations, links to the rest of the country, and was once are the Salle de Lixus and the Salle de Dra- near the busiest border crossing with Alge- peries. They do indeed resemble thin sheets ria, making it popular with traders and tour- of curtains, frozen and calcified. Allow at ists alike. When the border closed in 1995, least three hours there and back. Speleolo- Oujda’s economy took a major hit. However, gists have explored to a depth of 300m, but recent tourism development along the near- Imperial Cities, Middle Atl as & the E ast OTGheujtetdEiaansgtT h e r e & Away they believe there are more caves another by Mediterranean coast and the consequent 500m below. rise in importance of the airport are having a positive knock-on effect on the city. In ad- The admission fee allows you to enter the dition, Oujda’s important university remains cavern mouth at a depth of 160m. Beyond a mainstay of the economy and the city’s in- that, a guide is needed to go further under- tellectual life. ground to the grandest chambers. Bank Despite few attractions, it’s hassle-free on the occasional scramble, and squeezes so you can catch your breath after heading through narrow sections; not recommend- down from the Rif Mountains or before trav- ed for claustrophobes. Overalls, nonslip elling on to Figuig and the Sahara. overshoes and a helmet with lamp must be rented. History BACK TO TAZA Oujda lies on the main axis connecting Mo- Beyond the Gouffre du Friouato, the road rocco with the rest of North Africa (the Ro- climbs into coniferous forests past Bab mans built a road through here). Like Taza, Bou-Idir. Abandoned for much of the year, it occupied a key position in controlling the in summer holidaymakers fill its campsite east and was often seen as a vital stepping and tiled alpine-style houses. This is a good stone for armies aiming to seize control of base for day hikes in the area. There’s a new the heartland around it. national park information office, and several marked trails from an easy 1.4km to a more Founded by the Meghraoua tribe in the strenuous 17.3km. The forests contain wild 10th century, Oujda remained independ- boar and deer, and Barbary sheep are being ent until the Almohads overran it a century reintroduced. later. Under the Merenids, Algerian rulers based in Tlemcen took the town on several About 8km past Bab Bou-Idir, a rough occasions, and in the 17th century it fell un- track branches off to the right 9km up to der the Ottoman in Algiers. Jebel Tazzeka (1980m). A piste goes to the summit, and it’s a tough climb. At the top Moulay Ismail put an end to this in 1687, is a TV relay station, and great panoramic and Oujda remained in Moroccan hands views out to the Rif and the Middle Atlas. until 1907, when French forces in Algeria crossed the frontier and occupied the town After 38km, the main road joins the main in one of a series of similar ‘incidents’. The Fez–Taza road at Sidi Abdallah de Rhiata. protectorate was still five years away, but the sultan was powerless to stop it.

352 B1 1 1 1 1 1 C D La Bell d'Orient Grands Taxis Oujda 111111 Derfoufi D D A 1 1 1 Ce1me1tery1 1 (700m) to Nador (250m) 2 111111 Blvd Prinú#ce1MP6ohMualar1omy4uHú#saæ#alcismi#úIesn2aî#ð#tnJ1eP5er8dlnï#aPddAeÿ#cultaoaeß#16ÿ#hû1c26et ˜#24ò##æ22›#5 111111 ñ# Nachef 3 111111 111111 Blvd Abdella Chefchaouni ›# 20 11 Mohammed ÿ# Train ÿ# £# Station Pl de ÿ# 9 Blvd 10 Mohammed V la Gare 7 ÿ# Blvd Zerktouni 17 ú# # #ú 19 Maroc Voyages MEDINA Oued Blvd 3 Ü# Blvd Allal ben AbdallahBlvd Hassan el-Oukili# Imperial Cities, Middle Atl as & the E ast OST hiugjehdEtaasst 24 ú# 18 64 Anzarane DParcBLlvadl(laI8d0Ari0iscmshAa) l-AkbeaHlr-ôFî#apritaabl i Blvd Bir CD D Grands Taxis to Taza & Fez (150m); Gare Routière (250m) B A The French soon expanded Oujda, which hammed V, note the 1930s clock tower, the is still burgeoning as a provincial capital. fine sandstone mosque, and the impressive French neo-Moorish Banque al-Maghrib, 1 Sights before arriving at the Church of St Louis (Pl 9 Juillet; hMass 6.30pm Sat, 9am Sun), with Medina MEDINA nesting storks on its towers. Oujda’s medina isn’t large but the walls and several surrounding squares have been re- built. Enter through the eastern gate, Bab Parc Lalla Aicha PARK el-Ouahab. It is chock-full of food stalls (Ave Yacoub Al-Mansour; h7am-7pm) This beau- tiful park is worth a stroll. There’s a swim- (Oujda olives are well regarded) and street ming pool (summer only, admission Dh20), cafes. Bustling without being overwhelming, it’s a great slice of tradition and modernity. cafe, tennis and horse riding. From Pl el-Attarine, head north through z Festivals & Events the souqs past the 14th-century Grande Mosquée built by the Merenids, popping Oujda is renowned for its music: a cross- out near Pl du 16 Août, the centre of the ville cultural mix of Algerian, Andalucian and nouvelle. Moroccan. Central Oujda NOTABLE BUILDING International Gharnati Festival (h Jul) Gharnati is Algerian music from An- Although full of new buildings, a few deco dalusia (the name is derived from Granada) structures survive in the side streets of cen- and is particularly renowned in nearby tral Oujda. Walking south along Blvd Mo- Tlemcen.

353 e# 0 400 m Oujda 0 0.2 miles E F æ Sights 1 Bab el-Ouahab ......................................E2 Rue de Casablanca 1 2 Banque al-Maghrib ...............................D2 3 Church of St Louis ................................C3 Rue de Figuig Imperial Cities, Middle Atl as & the E ast OTShluejeedEpaai nstg 4 Clock Tower........................................... D1 5 Grande Mosquée ..................................E3 Souqs Ave Moulay Hassan232 6 Mosque................................................... D1 Rue de Fès˜# Place 3 du Maroc ÿ Sleeping 7 Atlas Terminus......................................B2 Pl Sidi 8 Hôtel Afrah.............................................D2 Abdel 9 Hotel Al Manar.......................................C2 1 æ# Ouahab #ú 13 10 Hôtel Angad...........................................D2 11 Hôtel Ibis Moussafir..............................B2 Place el- ›# 21 12 Hôtel Tlemcen.......................................D2 Attarine ú Eating ß# al-Arabi 13 Argana.................................................... F3 14 Café Pâtisserie Colombe .....................D2 5 15 L'Excellence...........................................D2 16 Restaurant Le Comme Chez Soi ........C2 KASBAHBlvd al-Maghrib 17 Restaurant Nacional.............................C3 Bel Houssein 18 Rihab.......................................................C3 Rue Ziri Ibn Atia 19 Trocadero ..............................................C3 Lt ï Transport Blvd 4 20 CTM Office.............................................D2 21 Local Buses ........................................... F3 22 Petits Taxis ............................................D2 23 Petits Taxis ............................................E2 24 RAM ........................................................C3 25 Trans Ghazala Ticket Office ................ D1 EF W) The top pick of the budget hotels is this affordable two-star. Rooms are basic, with Oujda International Rai Festival large bathroom and TV; get a room at the (hAug) Rai music developed in Algeria in back as streetside can be noisy. The down- the 1930s as a form of protest folk music. stairs cafe does breakfast and pizza. Hôtel Tlemcen HOTEL € (%0536 70 03 84; 26 Rue Ramdane el-Gadhi; s/d/ Moussems of Sidi Yahia Ben Younes tr Dh90/180/270) This friendly little place of- (hAug & Sep) This is held 6km south of Ouj- fers excellent value, and has a grand-looking da. Patron saint of the city and venerated lobby. Quarters are small but bright, with by Moroccans, Sidi Yahia is also thought to bathroom and TV. Air-conditioning was be- be John the Baptist or perhaps a Castilian ing installed at the time of research, so ex- rabbi. Thousands of pilgrims flock to the pect slightly higher prices. celebrations. The trees around the shrine (closed to non-Muslims) are festooned with Hôtel Afrah HOTEL € rags, tied to receive blessings – a throwback (%0536 68 65 33; 15 Rue Tafna; s/d Dh70/120; W) to pre-Islamic fertility beliefs. To get to Sidi The tiles and plasterwork in the lobby lend Yahia, take bus 1 (Dh6) from outside Bab el- some traditional Moroccan flavour here. Ouahab in Oujda. A petit taxi should cost Self-contained rooms are a bit boxy, but oth- around Dh30. erwise this is a good budget choice. 4 Sleeping Hotel Al Manar HOTEL €€ Hôtel Angad HOTEL € (%0536 68 88 55; [email protected]; 50 (%0536 69 14 51; [email protected]; Rue Tafna; s/d Dh160/200, with air-con Dh200/240; Blvd Zerktouni; s/d Dh360/420; aW) Centrally located, the Al Manar is suitably towering

354 oRestaurant Nacional MOROCCAN € (%0536 70 32 57; 107 Blvd Allal ben Abdallah; SOLAR SAHARA meals from Dh25; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm) This is a Oujda institution: people queue for tables One thing the desert has in copious at lunchtime (there’s a big, packed salon amounts (apart from sand) is sun- upstairs). Salads are great, and waiters rush shine, and in November 2009 Morocco with plates of grilled meat, fried fish and revealed a US$9 billion investment tajines, and there’s couscous on Fridays. plan to generate 20% of its energy from solar energy by the year 2020. Trocadero CAFE, ITALIAN € Much of it will be produced in the (Blvd Zerktouni; mains from Dh40; h8am-10pm; Moroccan Orient, the region running W) One of the new black, glass and chrome along the Algerian border from the cafes, Trocadero has two floors and a pave- Mediterranean to Figuig. The upgrad- ment area. The food is excellent: try the ing of infrastructure on the highway chicken florentina or risotto. south of Oujda (proclaimed from doz- ens of roadside billboards) points to L’Excellence CAFE, ITALIAN € the money pouring into the region. In (%0536 71 28 18; 30 Blvd Mohammed V; pizza addition, a great deal of investment is around Dh40; h8am-10pm) Another large, earmarked for the Ouarzazate region. modern cafe over two floors with an excel- lent patisserie around the corner and a pizza The programs are being financed by restaurant upstairs. private investors as well as the World Bank, the European Investment Bank, Café Pâtisserie Colombe CAFE € and Spain, France, Germany and Saudi Arabia. Imperial Cities, Middle Atl as & the E ast ETOahutjeidnEaagst (Blvd Mohammed V; croissants Dh2; h8am-10pm) A popular and busy cafe, good for breakfast and people-watching. for its name. Functional and practical de- cor: rooms are fine value, although avoid the Argana CAFE € darker, small-windowed interior rooms. (Pl Sidi Abdel Ouahab; tajines Dh25; h9am-9pm) Join lots of Moroccan families and take the Hôtel Ibis Moussafir HOTEL €€ lift to this large, plant-filled cafe overlooking (%0536 68 82 02; www.ibishotel.com; Pl de la Gare; s/d Dh612/684; aWs) Bang in front of you the square. There’s (very loud) live music at night. as you leave the train station, the Ibis has all the up-to-the-minute facilities and comfort- La Belle d’Orient SEAFOOD €€ able rooms you’d expect from this interna- (%0536 70 59 61; 65 Blvd Ahfir; mains from Dh75; tional hotel chain – you could be anywhere hlunch) An excellent choice if you’re in the (or nowhere) in the world. mood for fish fresh from the coast. Sardines are grilled on the barbecue outside, there’s a Atlas Terminus HOTEL €€€ fish tajine (Dh100) or a platter of fish friture (%0536 71 10 10; www.hotelsatlas.com; Pl de la Gare; s/d incl breakfast Dh1310/1500; aWs) Sit- (Dh75). Pizzas are also available. ting imperially, the Atlas Terminus is very Rihab CAFE, ITALIAN €€ grand. Rooms and service are the best quali- (%0536 70 51 51; cnr Blvd Idriss Al-Akbar & Allal ben ty, with three restaurants, bar and nightclub, Abdallah; mains from Dh95; h8am-11pm; W) Amy pool and spa. Winehouse would have sung ‘yes, yes, yes’ to this Rihab. The ground and 1st floors are a 5 Eating swish, modern cafe, ice-cream parlour and excellent boulangerie, while on the 8th floor We asked a resident the best thing about the there’s a good restaurant with a wide range city. ‘It has plenty of cafes’, was the reply. It’s of fish and Italian dishes. true: people-watching over coffee or mint tea is a major occupation for locals (well, the Restaurant Le Comme Chez Soi FRENCH €€ men). There’s a rash of new, modern cafes, (%0536 68 60 79; 8 Rue Sijilmassa; mains around and many serve good food. Dh110) This licensed restaurant has a French-influenced menu, with some good In the medina, the stalls inside Bab el- meat and fish dishes, plus a smattering of Ouahab offer more traditional fare, includ- pastas. ing kefta (spiced meatballs), bowls of harira and boiled snails.

355 88 Information Internet (Blvd Mohammed V; per hr Dh5; h9am-10pm) Above the téléboutique. There are numerous banks with ATMs and Main Post Office (Blvd Mohammed V; h8am- bureaux de change located along Blvd Moham- 4pm) med V. Maroc Voyages (%0536 68 39 93; 110 Blvd Delegation Provinciale du Tourisme (Pl du 16 Allal ben Abdallah; h9am-6pm Mon-Thu, 9am- Août; h9am-4pm Mon-Thu, 9am-noon Fri) As noon Fri & Sat) usual, this is just an administrative office, but it Pharmacie Mouslim (Blvd Mohammed V; does have a good map of the city. h 8am-6pm) Hôpital el-Farabi (%0536 68 27 05; Ave Idriss Police Station (Blvd Mohammed Derfoufi) el-Akbar) FIGUIG ‫فجيج‬ Imperial Cities, Middle Atl as & the E ast ITOnhufjeodEraamsattio n In the days of cross-border tourism, Figuig (fig-eeg) was popular with travellers. Few people make it here now, which is a shame because it is one of Morocco’s best oasis towns: seven traditional desert villages amid 200,000 date palms fed by artesian wells. Once a historic way station for pilgrims travelling to Mecca, Figuig now sleeps, only wak- ing for the autumn date harvest. Figuig has an upper and lower town. The main road, Blvd Hassan II, runs through the upper (new) town, where there are ATMs, a post office and pleasant municipal gardens. Where the road passes the Figuig Hotel, it drops downhill towards the lower town – the basin of palms and ksour (mudbrick castles) that make up the old part of Figuig. This ridge provides a handy landmark as well as views over the palmeraie (oasis) and into Algeria; the best views are from Azrou, where the path leads towards Ksar Zenaga, or from the terrace of the Figuig Hotel. The seven ksour that make up the town each control an area of palmeraie and its all-important supply of water. The largest and most rewarding is Ksar Zenaga, south below the ridge splitting the oasis. Take the paths following irrigation channels past palm trees and gardens, then suddenly you’re among a warren of covered passages. As you tunnel between the houses, look out for some marvellous, ancient wooden doors, and watch out – you may find yourself in someone’s backyard. The crumbling state of many ksour lets you see their clever construction: palm-tree trunks plastered with pisé (rammed earth), and ceilings made of palm fronds. It’s cool and dark and often eerily quiet. You may meet married women swathed in white robes, with the startling exception of one uncovered eye. It’s easy to get lost; village children will happily guide you for a few dirham. Closer to the upper part of town, to the west of the main road, Ksar el-Oudahir is home to a lovely octagonal minaret built in the 11th century. It’s known as the sawmann al-hajaria (tower of stone), and its design is quite unlike anything you’ll see anywhere else in Morocco, instead echoing the minarets of Mauritania and the Sahel. One of the best ways to taste traditional Figuigi life is to stay at the Auberge Oasis (%0536 89 92 20; www.auberge-oasis.com; Rue Jamaa, Ksar Zenaga; s/d Dh100/170, incl full board Dh300/600; i), a family home built of adobe in a ksar. Rooms are traditionally decorated (and with en suite), and you can relax in the rooftop Berber tent. The home- cooked meals are excellent. Arriving in Figuig, buses stop at the ‘bus station’ – little more than a junction and three ticket offices – at the north end of town. They then continue on to the lower town, terminating at Tachraft Sq in Zenaga. Always check out transport options the day before travelling. There are two buses a day to Oujda (Dh93, seven hours), and one every other day with CTM (Dh100). All stop at Bouarfa, where you can change for connections to Er-Rachidia. The border with Algeria is closed, but in the unlikely event of it reopening, it’s 3km from Figuig to Moroccan customs, and a further 4km to the Algerian town of Béni Ounif.

Imperial Cities, Middle Atl as & the E ast OTGheujtetdEiaansgtT h e r e & Away356You can also buy tickets for these services at the Trans Ghazala ticket office (% 0536 68 53 87; 88 Getting There & Away Rue Sidi Brahim). AIR Numerous other companies with ticket offices Oujda’s Angad Airport (% 0536 68 32 61) is in the bus station offer frequent departures for 15km north of the town off the road to Saïdia. Taza, Fez and Meknès as well as Berkane (Dh16, Grand-taxi fares are set at Dh150, but any bus 20 minutes) and Nador (Dh35, three hours). to Nador, Berkane or Saïdia can drop you on the There are two daily buses to Bouarfa (Dh66, five main road for a few dirham. hours) and Figuig (Dh93, seven hours). There are also several buses a day to Saïdia (Dh17, one RAM (%0536 68 39 09; 45 Blvd Mohammed V) hour) and Al-Hoceima (Dh79, six hours). There has two (or three) daily flights to Casablanca and are also two daily buses to Tangier (Dh195, 10 direct flights to France. Ryanair operates flights hours) via Tetouan (Dh137, nine hours). to Paris, Brussels, Marseille and Düsseldorf. EasyJet, Transavia, Jetairfly and Air Arabia all TAXI have flights to Paris. Grands taxis leave regularly from the main bus station to Taza (Dh80, three hours). Change BORDER CROSSING here for onward connections. Grands taxis head- Few anticipate the Algerian border will be re- ing north to Nador (Dh60, three hours), Saïdia opening soon. (Dh25, one hour) and Berkane (Dh25, one hour) congregate north of town near the junction BUS of Rue ibn Abdelmalek and Blvd Mohammed The main bus station sits in the shadow of the Derfoufi. huge Mohammed VI Mosque. The CTM office (% 0536 68 20 47; Rue Sidi Brahim) has a TRAIN suboffice just off Pl du 16 Août selling tickets Oujda’s train station is at the west end of Blvd to Casablanca (Dh210, nine hours overnight), Zerktouni. Three trains leave daily for Casa- Taza (Dh65, 3½ hours), Fez (Dh120, five hours), blanca (Dh305, 10 hours) and three for Tangier Meknès (Dh120, six hours), Rabat (Dh180, 7½ (two via Sidi Kacem, Dh320, 10 hours). All stop hours), and Tangier (Dh210, 11 hours) also via at Taza (Dh111, 3½ hours), Fez (Dh160, six hours) Taza, Fez and Meknès. There is also a service and Meknès (Dh190, 6½ hours). every other day to Figuig (Dh100, six hours). Trans Ghazala runs several daily services to Casablanca via Taza, Fez, Meknès and Rabat.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Southern Morocco & Western Sahara ‫جنوب المغرب والصحراء الغربي‬ Agadir . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 Why Go? Taroudannt . . . . . . . . 369 Tafraoute . . . . . . . . . . 375 The Souss Valley, where goats climb argan trees beneath the Ameln Valley. . . . . . . . 380 sun-baked Anti Atlas, draws a line across Morocco. South of Tiznit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 this fertile valley, the pace of life in mountain villages and Sidi Ifni . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 Saharan gateways is seductively slow, free from the hassles Goulimime . . . . . . . . . 394 of mass tourism and modern existence. Tarfaya . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 Laâyoune A sense of somewhere really fresh and undiscovered gusts (Al-‘uyun) . . . . . . . . . . 400 through the region like the spring winds – and you’ll want to Dakhla savour it. On elegantly wrecked seafronts, sip a mint tea and (ad-Dakhla) . . . . . . . . 402 gaze at the wild Atlantic Coast. When trekking, mountain biking or driving through wrinkled Anti Atlas foothills, stop Best Places to before the next oasis village and appreciate the silence. Stay The locals, from Chleuh Berbers in the Souss to the Sa- ¨¨Palais Oumensour (p371) harawi in the Western Sahara, seem determined to comple- ¨¨Les 3 Chameaux (p390) ment the landscapes. Their light robes flutter under desert ¨¨Ksar Massa (p367) skies, and their dark herds dot rocky hillsides. ¨¨La Maison Anglaise (p371) ¨¨Tizourgane Kasbah (p377) Head south: you’ll be surprised. When to Go Rainfall inches/mm 6/150 Agadir °C/°F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 4/100 Off the Beaten 10/50 2/50 Track 0/32 0 ¨¨Anti Atlas trekking (p382) JF MAM J J A S OND ¨¨Afella-Ighir oasis (p380) Feb Trek the Anti Mar See almond Nov Catch ¨¨Ameln Valley (p380) Atlas and hit the trees blossom, Taliouine’s saf- Atlantic Coast for celebrated by fron festival and ¨¨Id-Âïssa (p395) winter sun and Tafraoute’s har- Immouzzer des surf. vest festival. Ida Outanane’s ¨¨Oases and agadirs, Tata olive harvest. (p381)

358 WESTERN SAHARA Tan Tan Plage Mechra Benâbbou CANARY Tarfaya Tan Tan Bouguedra Youssoufia Benguérir ISLANDS Laâyoune Al-Haggounia Tindouf P7 (Spain) Foum el-Oued Smara Boujdour Bou Craa ATLANTIC N1 Aïn Sidi-Bou- OCEAN Ben Othmane Western Tili Sahara Bîr Mogrein Dakhla Tropic of Cancer P10 Marrakesh Chichaoua Mijek Imlili Aoussard Zouérat S a h a r a Imi-n- Tanoute Toubkal National Park Bir-Gandouz Tichla Aghoninit High Atlas Asni MAURITANIA Oukaïmeden Nouâdhibou 0 200 km Ijoukak Jebel Toubkal 0 120 miles (4167m) Immouzzer des Tichka Tizi n'Test Jebel Siroua Ida Outanane Assafid Plateau (3305m) Tamri Afensou Ouled Taghazout AoPuarriar dise Valley Berhil Aoulouz Tagmout Tamraght AT LANTI C Taroudannt Taliouine O CEAN Agadir N10 Tizi n'Taghatine 0 Aït-Melloul 0 Souss-Massa Inezgane Tioute National Park Biougra THE MOROCCO Sidi R'bat Aït SOUSS Massa Belfaa Baha Igherm Jebel Aglou Jebel L'Kest Aklim Plage (2359m) (2531m) SoutthheerrnnMMoororoccoc&oW&eWsteesrtneSranhSaarhaaMroaro cco & Western Sahara Highligh 50 km Ameln Valley Idaougnidif Anti Akka-Irhen 30 miles Atlas Plage Tiboujaratine Tiznit Tandilt Tizi Mlil Tafraoute Mirleft Adrar Mqorn Tata (2344m) Legzira Plage Col de Afella-Ighir Tiggane N1 Kerdous Plage Blanche SidiBOoSuuiadJreisriiIkffnAi baïnMoBuoesutiizPakaaTlmrinmeeorualiaIeyfraSnoNeuokuTandianieI(-dA-mÂtïsosuadi Ukas Akka Gorge) Oum Âït Herbil N12 el-Alek Goulimime Fask Taghjicht Oued Drâa Asrir Tighmert Tan Tan N1 Tircht Plage Tadalt See Inset for Western Sahara Âouïnet- Assa ALGERIA Torkoz Tan Tan Tiglite Southern Morocco & Western Sahara Highlights 1 Stroll past art-deco relics 5 Hit the souqs and squares 8 Taste saffron and argan oil in seaside Sidi Ifni (p390) in bustling Taroudannt (p369) in Taliouine (p374) 2 Trek, drive or cycle through 6 Meander up Paradise 9 Put your feet up on the Anti Atlas (p375) Valley (p368), an accessible the Sahara’s fringes in the 3 Explore the oasis of part of the western High Atlas palmeraie accommodation Afella-Ighir (p380) 7 Hang loose in the surf (p394) around Goulimime 4 Visit traditional Berber spots of Mirleft (p389) and a Shop for silver in Tiznit houses and cycle around Taghazout (p367) medina (p384) Tafraoute (p375)

Climate 359 swath of beach. From the northern end of Southern Morocco divides into three distinct the beach, near the marina and port, three geographical areas, each with its own micro- parallel streets – 20 Août, nearest the ocean, climate. The semitropical, verdant Souss Mohammed V and Hassan II – run through Valley is hot and humid, with temperatures the main tourist area. ranging between 22°C and a steamy 38°C, when water vapour rises like a mist from History the huge citrus groves that fill the valley. The valley is also prone to heavy winds in Named after the agadir (fortified granary) spring. The climate of the barren Anti Atlas of the Irir tribe, Agadir has a long history of veers between freezing winters and hot, dry boom and bust. It was founded in the 15th summers. The deep southern coast enjoys a century by Portuguese merchants wanting more constant year-round sunny climate. to develop trade links with the Saharan caravans. From the mid-16th century, as the Language Saadian empire expanded, the port became prosperous from the export of local sugar, Arabic remains the lingua franca of major cotton and saltpetre, and products from cities in the south. The Chleuh tribes who Saharan trade, which the Moroccans then dominate the Souss speak Tashelhit, a Ber- controlled. But this prosperity ended in the ber dialect, most noticeable in the Anti 1760s, when the Alawite sultan Sidi Moham- Atlas. French is widely spoken and Span- med ben Abdullah diverted the trade to ish is still heard in some of Spain’s former Essaouira. territories. The French colonists went some way THE SOUSS VALLEY towards redeveloping Agadir in the 20th century, but the earthquake on 29 Febru- Agadir ‫اكادير‬ ary 1960 completely destroyed the city. As Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a STAhiggaehdSitosru ss Vall e y many as 18,000 people perished – around POP 679,000 half of the population. The authorities, un- able to cope with the apocalyptic aftermath Agadir feels unlike anywhere else in Moroc- of death and disease, sprayed the area with co. A busy port and beach resort sprawling lime and DDT, and left the dead where they beneath its kasbah, the city was completely had been buried, in the collapsed city. The rebuilt following a devastating earthquake mound this created is now known as Anci- in 1960. It is now the country’s premier des- enne Talborjt. tination for sun, sand, pubs and pizza. Laid out as a large grid of downtown streets, sur- Since its reconstruction, Agadir has de- rounded by spacious residential suburbs, veloped into an important port, with a large Agadir’s concrete-covered inland quarters fishing fleet helping to make Morocco the are ugly and sterile. However, the city hits world’s largest exporter of tinned sardines. Agadir has also become Morocco’s top beach resort, and the luxury marina complex sig- nals ambitions to move upmarket. its stride on the beachfront promenade, 1 Sights where Moroccan street life comes with a refreshing sense of space. Arching south of Mémoire d’Agadir MUSEUM the shiny white marina, the sheltered sandy (cnr Ave du Président Kennedy & Ave des FAR; adult/ child Dh20/10; h9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat) beach offers clean water and 300 sunny This small museum in the southwest corner days a year. Agadir caters mainly to package-tour of Jardin de Olhão, entered from outside the park, is dedicated to the 1960 earthquake. holidaymakers, and will appeal less to in- Displays include interesting photos of Aga- dependent travellers with an interest in Moroccan culture. Families will also en- dir since the 1920s, while others show the effects of the quake. joy relaxing on the beach and wandering around the handful of sights. If you do not have children in tow, however, we recom- Jardin de Olhão PARK mend heading elsewhere to make the most (Ave du Président Kennedy; h2.30-6.30pm Tue- Sun) F A cool, relaxing garden created in of a visit to Morocco. 1992 to mark the twinning of Agadir with The city spreads over a large area, both along the coast and inland from the huge the Portuguese town of Olhão.

44446644 6666D6666666360 Agadir e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles A BLaargoub CD Ancienne Car (1km) 1 Musée de l'Argan (320m) D Talborjt (200m) D DBlvd Hassa â# #÷AdveeJadOrudlhiPnãroéÿ#siTNdA1eO2nLtUBKVOLeEnaTRPnhAalJecamUdTecyrne2i.#C21Tú#1Mÿ## 32 Rue des Ave des FAR 2 þ# Rue Chinguit 1 n II 10 Oranges Ave du 29 Février ñ# ò# 1 2 ÿ# ü#29Supratours î# 2 Car Hire Pharmacie Agencies AvKeettdauniGénéral du Talborjt ú# 17#ú# Car Hire # 19 # Agencies Ave #þ 34 ONMT (250m); #ú 18 du8Pò#ÿ#ri2n3ceú#Moau3Cll-1aMly#þinAað#ibqî#sdsu#aierllaah Marina (1.2km); 28 Port (2km); #þ36 ü# -# Rue al-Jazouli Kasbah (7km) #÷ 5 16#ú 25 #ûÿ#15 ÿ# JaZradidinouibnn Novembre 9 ñ# Jour et Nuit (200m); Car Hire 18 Tourist Police (200m); Agencies Club Royal de Rue du Rue de Marrakesh Jet-Ski (1km); Ø# 6 FRouireede la ú# Marina (1.2km) 1ÿ#3 24 D 35 þ# Rue de Fès â#P3að#ssa#ûge2A7ït So3þ#u3s#ús 21 3 4443 ÿ# Stadium Grands Taxis 14 6626 Blvd Hassan II (200m) 444Ø#7 #û #ú20 444 Teleboutique Ave Mohammed Vle Musée Rue Oued Souss Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a STAhiggaehdSitosru ss Vall e y Blvd D So 44 44 66DLe du 20 Souq al-Had (1.5km); 4 444ATLANTIC Ù# 4 Gare routière›#(2km); D Août OCEAN Inezgane (13km); 30û# (430m) Al-Massira #– (28km) A BCD Musée du Patrimoine Amazigh MUSEUM 6nearly 300 people. All that remains is the (%0528 82 16 32; Passage Aït Souss; adult/child Dh20/10; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon- outer wall, though traces of the dwellings can still be made out. The inscription over Sat) S With an excellent display of Berber the entry arch in Dutch and Arabic (‘Be- artefacts, especially jewellery, the museum is lieve in God and respect the King’) is a re- a great place to learn about the traditional minder of the beginning of trade with the life and culture of the region’s Berber people. Low Countries. Vallée des Oiseaux PARK The walk up to the kasbah is long, hot and uncomfortable: get a taxi (about Dh25) (Valley of the Birds; h11am-6pm) F A leafy and walk back down. city-centre retreat in the dry riverbed run- ning down from Blvd Hassan II to Blvd du 20 Août, with a shaded children’s play- Ancienne Talborjt HISTORIC SITE ground, an aviary and a small zoo. (off Ave al-Moun) The grassy area below the kasbah covers the remains of old Agadir town and constitutes a mass grave for all Kasbah KASBAH those who died in the 1960 earthquake. (off Ave al-Moun) The hilltop kasbah, 7km northwest of the centre and visible from much of the city, is a rare survivor of the Marina MARINA 1960 earthquake. The views from up here (%0661 21 57 46; off Ave Mohammed V) The city’s newest attraction is a billion-dirham pleas- of the port, marina and Agadir are fantastic. ure port between the beach and commercial Built in 1541 and restored in the 1740s, port. As well as mooring for your floating the kasbah once provided housing for palace, the complex of faux white kasbahs

361 Agadir 19 La Tour de Paris....................................B1 20 Le P'tit Dôme........................................B4 æ Sights 1 Jardin de Olhão .................................... C1 Marché Central .......................... (see 34) 2 Mémoire d'Agadir ................................ C1 21 Mezzo Mezzo........................................C3 3 Musée du Patrimoine Amazigh..........C3 22 Snack Stands ........................................D1 4 Palm Beach...........................................A4 23 SOS Poulet & Pizza..............................C2 5 Vallée des Oiseaux...............................B2 24 Tafarnout ..............................................C3 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Uniprix ......................................... (see 36) 6 Petit Train d'Agadir..............................A3 û Drinking & Nightlife 7 Sunset Beach .......................................A3 Actors...........................................(see 14) ÿ Sleeping 25 Cafe III ...................................................C3 8 Hotel Atlantic........................................C2 26 English Pub...........................................B3 9 Hôtel Kamal ..........................................B2 27 La Truite Irish Bar ................................C3 10 Hôtel Petite Suède................................A1 28 La Verandah .........................................C2 11 Hotel Sindibad...................................... D1 29 Orange Café...........................................B1 12 Hotel Tamri........................................... C1 30 Papa Gayo.............................................B4 13 Kenzi Europa ........................................A3 14 Royal Atlas............................................A3 Uniprix Cafe................................ (see 36) 15 Studiotel Afoud ....................................C3 þ Shopping ú Eating 31 Al Mouggar Bookshop.........................C2 16 Côte Court ............................................C3 32 Ensemble Artisanal ..............................D1 17 Daffy .......................................................B1 33 Librairie Papetrie .................................C3 Dolce & Caffe................................ (see 9) 34 Marché Central .....................................B1 18 La Siciliana............................................B2 35 Tafoukt Souq........................................ A3 36 Uniprix ...................................................B2 has holiday apartments, shops (mostly inter- Club Royal de Jet-Ski WATER SPORTS Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a AT hcgtaeidvSiiortui ess Vall e y national brands), cafes, restaurants and boat trips for groups. (%0665 95 24 35; www.agadiradventure.com) Of- fers jet-skiing and flyboarding on the beach 2 Activities near the marina. Beaches Hammams Agadir’s glory is its crescent beach, which Several big hotels, including the Royal Atlas, usually remains unruffled when the Atlan- have spas offering hammam, massage and a tic winds are blustering elsewhere. It’s clean range of treatments. and well maintained, spotlit at night and patrolled by lifeguards and police during Musée de l’Argan HAMMAM peak periods (mid-June to mid-September). There is a strong undertow. (%0528 84 87 82; www.lemuseedelargan.com; Ave Moulay Youssef; hammam & scrub Dh150; h10am- The beach is mostly hassle-free, but single 9pm) Geared towards tourists, this unisex females or families will have a more relaxed hammam offers massages and argan-based time at one of the private beaches near the treatments. marina, or in front of the big hotels around Sunset Beach and Palm Beach. Facilities T Tours here include showers, toilets and kids’ play areas; deckchairs and umbrellas can be Petit Train d’Agadir TOUR hired (Dh20). (Blvd du 20 Août; adult/child Dh18/12; hevery The shops on the promenade just south of 40min from 9.15am) This chain of buggies the marina sell bodyboards for about Dh130. snakes around the city centre for 35 minutes. Many larger beach hotels and surf clubs rent out windsurfing equipment, jet skis, body- z Festivals & Events boards and surfboards. Music Festivals MUSIC At sunset and into the evening, Agadir’s activity of choice is strolling along the prom- (www.festival-timitar-agadir.blogspot.com) Festival enade that runs south from the marina. Timitar attracts Moroccan and international musicians and DJs to Agadir every June, and the Concert for Tolerance takes place on the beach in October/November.

362 Studiotel Afoud APARTMENT €€ (%0528 84 39 99; www.studiotel-afoud.com; Rue 4 Sleeping de la Foire; s/d Dh630/740; aWs) If you would like to self-cater, these studios are simple Agadir has set its sights on the midrange but pleasant, each featuring a kitchen with and top-end visitor, but if you move away hob and fridge, and a balcony overlooking from the beach, you will find budget and the peeling neighbouring buildings. On the lower midrange options. High season in ground floor is a restaurant, grocery booth Agadir includes Easter, summer and the and bookcase of paperback novels. Christmas period, when European holiday- makers fly out on package tours. During Royal Atlas HOTEL €€€ these times, it’s best to book ahead. (%0528 29 40 40; www.hotelsatlas.com; Blvd du 20 Août; s/d incl breakfast Dh1428/1657; aiWs) Midrange and top-end hotels often offer This beachfront colossus ticks all the five- discounts during low season; budget prices star boxes with a Moroccan flourish. Carpets fluctuate less, but deals are available online. and antiques dot the tiled floors leading to Many luxury hotels along the seafront are the palm-fringed bar and pool area, and the geared towards package tours, but discounts 350 rooms and suites. Facilities include a on their published rates are sometimes nightclub, gym, Daniel Jouvance spa, private available to independent travellers. beach, Italian and Moroccan restaurants, and all the extras you would expect. A strip of luxury beachfront hotels and re- sorts runs south of the centre on Rue Oued Kenzi Europa HOTEL €€€ Souss and Chemin des Dunes, including Riu (%0528 82 12 12; www.kenzi-hotels.com; Blvd Tikida and Sofitel properties. Luxurious ri- du 20 Août; s/d Dh1700/1800; aWs) This ads and kasbahs are found on the outskirts of Agadir – in the hills inland or to the south en route to Inezgane. 4 Centre & Seafront Kenzi hotel is about the most stylish and re- strained thing in tacky Agadir. Curvy lamp- shades and flat surfaces abound in the calm, Hôtel Petite Suède HOTEL € (%0528 84 07 79; www.petitesuede.com; cnr Blvd Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a AST hlgeaedeSipiornugss Vall e y Hassan II & Ave du Général Kettani; s/d incl breakfast minimal rooms; facilities include a spa, res- taurant and bar; and a band tinkles away Dh205/330; W) Readers recommend this sim- in the lobby. Only the plastic octopus and ple but perfectly located hotel, five minutes’ dolphins in the children’s pool detract from walk from the beach, with good service and the overall smoothness. Specials are offered. a roof terrace for breakfast and ocean views. One of Agadir’s more Moroccan-styled hotels, with an attractive, rug-scattered interior. 4 Nouveau Talborjt Hotel Atlantic HOTEL €€ The best area for budget options is away (%0528 84 36 61; www.atlantichotelagadir.com; from the ocean in Nouveau Talborjt, where off Blvd Hassan II; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh510/ there are three budget hotels on Pl Lahcen 620/880; aWs) The three-star Atlantic is Tamri. The all-night bus activity ensures one of the best deals in Agadir, offering com- that most hotel receptions here are open 24 fortable rooms and, in the cool and breezy hours; the area is a little seedy. reception, professional service. It has a spa, Hotel Sindibad HOTEL € (%0528 82 34 77; [email protected]; Pl Lahcen a lovely little pool, and tours on offer. Tamri; s/d Dh300/350; aWs) This blue-and- Hôtel Kamal HOTEL €€ white building, above a patisserie on the (%0528 84 28 17; www.hotel-kamal.com; Blvd Has- san II; s/d/tr/q Dh404/465/569/673; Ws) A square, has small en-suite rooms. The star attraction is the pint-sized rooftop pool. popular and well-run downtown hotel in a white block overlooking Pl de L’Esperance, Hotel Tamri HOTEL € (%0528 82 18 80; Ave du Président Kennedy; s/d the Kamal manages to appeal to a range of Dh90/120) This modern, friendly and clean clients, from package tourists to travelling Moroccans. Rooms are tired, but the staff hotel has turquoise balconies overlook- ing the palms in the tiled courtyard, and are helpful, the pool is large enough to swim pictures of old Agadir in reception. Rooms laps and there is a bar. Breakfast (Dh36) is dull and overpriced; go downstairs to Dolce have basins, and the shared bathrooms have squat toilets. & Caffe. Discounts are offered online.

5 Eating 363 Self-caterers should check out Marché Cen- TOP EATING SPOTS tral (off Blvd Hassan II), which has a fresh food market on the ground floor, or Uniprix (Blvd Passage Aït Souss Opposite the mu- Hassan II), a supermarket that stocks every- seum on this pedestrianised walkway, thing from cheese and biscuits to beer, wine cafes serve everything from Moroccan and spirits. dishes to pizza. 5 Centre & Nouveau Talborjt Souq al-Had At lunchtime, tajines bub- ble away outside the many cheap cafes. Daffy MOROCCAN € (Rue des Oranges; mains Dh50; hlunch & dinner) Nouveau Talborjt In the morning, This popular unlicensed tourist restaurant snack stands on Ave du 29 Février are offers tastes of Moroccan cuisine, including popular for Moroccan pancakes and couscous (on Friday) and tajines, as well as mint tea; for lunch or dinner, budget seafood and salads. cafes and restaurants have seats on Pl Lahcen Tamri. La Tour de Paris MOROCCAN, INTERNATIONAL € (Blvd Hassan II; mains Dh60; hlunch & dinner) One Port At the entrance to the port, off of the less pizza-orientated eateries in this Ave Mohammed V, you can pick up area, La Tour de Paris has a pleasant ter- an ultra-fresh, no-nonsense fish meal race and art-nouveau stylings. Inside, the from around Dh70. Check costs before televised soccer and keyboard player are less ordering; the various catches differ impressive, but the menu features couscous, greatly in price (seafood such as crab is about Dh300 per 1kg). The stalls close in the early evening during the winter. pastilla (pie), tajines, seafood, steaks and pasta. unusual dishes such as calamari risotto with La Siciliana PIZZERIA € chorizo chips. A children’s menu (Dh45) is (Blvd Hassan II; mains Dh70; hlunch & dinner) In available. a line of Italian eateries, this unlicensed res- Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TAEahgtaeidnSiogru ss Vall e y taurant is the most atmospheric of the lot. Between noon and 5pm weekdays, its pizza Mezzo Mezzo ITALIAN €€ (%0677 19 73 79; Blvd Hassan II; mains Dh90; and pasta deals (Dh30 to Dh60) are popular. hlunch & dinner; W) A shining beacon among Agadir’s many stodgy pizzerias, Mezzo Mez- Dolce & Caffe CAFE, ICE CREAM € zo offers a good range of pizzas, daily spe- (Blvd Hassan II; snacks Dh30; h8am-10pm) One of Agadir’s coolest cafes, serving delectable cials and wine by the glass. The kitchen also produces pasta and fish dishes, and there’s gâteaux, tarts, ice cream, crêpes, light meals a smooth European sophistication to the and breakfasts with an R&B soundtrack. decor and service. Tafarnout PATISSERIE € Le P’tit Dôme MOROCCAN, INTERNATIONAL €€ (Blvd Hassan II; snacks Dh30; h10am-10pm) Aga- dir’s smartest patisserie, with indoor and (%0528 84 08 05; Blvd du 20 Août; mains Dh100; hlunch & dinner) In a line of tourist restau- outdoor seating and a wide range of gâteaux, rants, Le P’tit Dôme offers good service, tarts, croissants, crêpes and biscuits. black-and-white decor and a touch more class than its neighbours. The usual piz- SOS Poulet & Pizza FAST FOOD € za, meat, seafood and Moroccan dishes (Ave du Prince Moulay Abdallah; half chicken Dh48, pizza Dh35-65; hlunch & dinner) These adjoin- are served, with a three-course set menu (Dh120) and children’s menu (Dh60) offered. ing snack bars are popular for their rotis- The food is unexciting, but the outdoor seats serie chicken and pizzas. are a pleasant dining environment. oCôte Court SEAFOOD, MEDITERRANEAN €€ (%0528 82 65 33; off Blvd Hassan II; mains Dh90- 170; hnoon-11.30pm) This restaurant at the 5 Marina Royal Tennis Club occupies a lovely outdoor area, which is equal parts chichi garden and The upmarket marina at the northern end nomad camp, with up-lit trees, basket lamps of the seafront promenade has a concentra- and the pizza oven flickering away. The serv- tion of midrange and top-end restaurants ice is attentive and the menu features some and cafes, where you can dine in style on international food.

364 Les Blancs SEAFOOD, SPANISH €€ ing to it, there are also plenty of cafes and (%0528 82 83 68; mains Dh130; hlunch & dinner) bars. Beers are typically Dh5 to Dh10 more Occupying a series of elegant white blocks expensive at night, but many bars extend by the beach at the entrance to the marina, their daytime prices during early-evening Les Blancs serves seafood and meat dishes happy hours. Many also offer the dubious including paella, the house speciality (two pleasure of karaoke or crooning entertainers. people minimum). In season, book ahead to score an outside table. For a sunset snack, The restaurants in Agadir are generally pizza (Dh90) is served in the terrace bar. licensed. 33 Yacht Adress SEAFOOD, MOROCCAN €€€ There is a decent range of nightclubs, (%0529 90 09 00; mains Dh160; hlunch & din- mostly glitzy, Westernised affairs scattered ner) This upmarket restaurant is an excel- along Blvd du 20 Août and Rue Oued Souss, lent spot for sundowners, with superb views and attached to the big hotels. Top choices down the beach. The menu, prepared by are Papa Gayo (Chemin des Dunes), Le So three French chefs, is a good mix of seafood (Sofitel Royal Bay, Chemin des Dunes) and Actors (Royal Atlas, Blvd du 20 Août). (sole, lobster, bouillabaisse) and meat dishes La Truite Irish Bar PUB, CAFE (chicken pastilla, shoulder of lamb). (Passage Aït Souss; hnoon-late; W) As its name suggests, this place is confused even by the La Madrague MEDITERRANEAN, SEAFOOD €€€ standards of its genre, with more pictures of (%0528 84 24 24; mains Dh110-280; hlunch & dinner) This stylish restaurant occupies a King Mohammed VI than shamrocks. None- theless, it offers outside tables, draught beer, quiet corner of the marina, with a view of English breakfasts and soccer broadcasts. the kasbah above the boats. It specialises in dishes such as pasta, risotto, crab and prawns, and offers a three-course weekday Jour et Nuit CAFE lunch special (Dh180). (Rue de la Plage; h24hr) A popular spot for a seafront sundowner. The newer of the two neighbouring branches has a panoramic 6 Drinking & Nightlife terrace. Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TADhgraei ndSikoirnugss& VNailglhetylif e There’s a great choice of cafes and patisse- Orange Café CAFE ries, where you can start the day with coffee and pastries or recover from the rigours of (Rue des Oranges; h10am-8pm; W) This cool the beach. Many open midmorning, but the little courtyard cafe, with chilled Arabic best time to hit the caffeine is late afternoon, electronica on the stereo and a fountain when Agadiris return to consciousness after gurgling away, serves coffee and light meals the hot afternoon and catch up with friends. (Dh15 to Dh25). Blvd du 20 Août, inland from Sunset Uniprix Cafe BAR, CAFE Beach, is good for bars and nightclubs, espe- cially around the top of Rue Oued Souss. At (Blvd Hassan II; h11am-9pm) The outside tables the marina and along the promenade lead- are a prime spot for people-watching. La Verandah CAFE (Immeuble Oumlil, Blvd Hassan II; h9am-8pm) This meeting point offers strong coffee and light meals on its glassed-in verandah. SOUQ AL-HAD English Pub PUB Leave the seafront to shop with the locals at Souq al-Had (Blvd Abderrahim (Blvd du 20 Août; mains Dh75; hnoon-late) Come Bouabid; hTue-Sat), which slaps a big, to this Union Jack–festooned bar for Stella messy dollop of Moroccan atmosphere Artois, all-day breakfasts and karaoke. onto concrete Agadir. Stalls sell every- thing from jellabas (a popular flowing Cafe III SHEESHA garment) to fish, including some good handicrafts, leatherwork and lanterns. (off Rue de la Foire; h6pm-late) Hip young locals Among the lines of fresh fruit and veg of both sexes come here to smoke sheesha from the Souss Valley, look out for Ber- beneath flatscreen TVs. ber apothecaries selling herbal incense, lipstick and potions that have all sorts 7 Shopping of effects on the bowels. Souvenirs are often trucked into Agadir from other parts of Morocco and tend to be of low quality, although Marrakshi vendors

365 have started to outsource production here. POST The options in the centre are unatmospheric Main Post Office (Ave Sidi Mohammed; but low-pressure environments offer easy h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) shopping. Post Office (Ave du 29 Février; h8.30am- 4.30pm Mon-Fri) Librairie Papetrie (Passage Aït Souss) and Al Mouggar Bookshop (cnr Ave du Prince TOURIST INFORMATION Moulay Abdallah & Ave du 29 Février) sell books Information Booth (%0528 83 91 02; in English. Al-Massira Airport; h24hr) ONMT (Délégation Régionale du Tourisme; Ensemble Artisanal ARTS & CRAFTS %0528 84 63 77; Immeuble Ignouan, Ave Mohammed V; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) In (Ave du 29 Février; h10am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm the blue building next to DHL; not particularly Mon-Sat) Some of the best craftwork found helpful. in Agadir. Marché Central ARTS & CRAFTS TRAVEL AGENCIES There are many travel agencies around the junc- (off Blvd Hassan II; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) Pick tion of Blvd Hassan II and Ave des FAR, variously up presents ranging from chessboards to representing major airlines and offering tours leatherwork in and around this concrete and day trips. building. Uniprix SUPERMARKET 88 Getting There & Away (Blvd Hassan II; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Sells AIR swimwear, holiday essentials and some Al-Massira Airport (% 0528 83 91 02; www. handicrafts. onda.ma; N10), mainly served by Royal Air Maroc (RAM) and European charter flights and budget Tafoukt Souq SOUVENIRS airlines, is 28km southeast of Agadir en route to Taroudannt. Facilities include a post office, (Blvd du 20 Août; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm) A bag-wrap service, cafes, souvenir shops and touristy bazaar with everything from Berber wi-fi hot spots. jewellery to football tops. 88 Information BUS Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TIAnhgfaeodSriomruatsisoVnall e y Although a good number of buses serve Agadir, EMERGENCY it is quite possible you’ll end up in Inezgane, Police (%19; Rue du 18 Novembre) There’s also 13km south, the regional transport hub. Check a Nouveau Talborjt office on Pl Lahcen Tamri, before you buy your ticket. Plenty of grands taxis and a Tourist Police (Rue de la Plage) post on (Dh5) and local buses (Dh8) shuttle between the promenade. there and Agadir. INTERNET ACCESS All the major bus companies, and plenty of There are internet cafes all over the centre and smaller companies, serve the massive circular Nouveau Talborjt. gare routière (bus station; Blvd Abderrahim Bouabid), past Souq al-Had. If you want to travel Adrar Net (Ave du Prince Moulay Abdallah; per on a specific bus, it is worth booking ahead. hr Dh5; h9am-10pm) CTM (% 0528 82 53 41), which has a Nouveau Teleboutique le Musée (Passage Aït Souss; Talborjt ticket office off Pl Lahcen Tamri, has per hr Dh5; h10.30am-11pm) several daily departures to these destinations: MEDICAL SERVICES DESTINATION COST (DH) DURATION (HR) Most of the larger hotels are able to recommend Casablanca 210 8 reliable, English-speaking doctors. Pharmacy win- Dakhla 370 20 dows display a list of that week’s ‘pharmacies de Essaouira 70 3½ garde’, which open 24 hours on a rotating basis. Laâyoune 230 11½ Marrakesh 105 3½ Clinique al-Massira (Ave du 29 Février; Rabat 230 9 h24hr) Medical clinic. Tangier 325 13½ Taroudannt 35 2 Pharmacie du Talborjt (off Pl Lahcen Tamri; Tiznit 40 1¾ h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat) MONEY There are banks all over the centre, most with ATMs and exchange facilities, and exchange booths and ATMs at the airport. Large hotels change cash and travellers cheques.

366 Agadir and destinations throughout southern Supratours (% 0528 84 12 07), which has a Morocco. city-centre ticket office on Rue des Oranges, offers similar services. You can also catch a shared grand taxi from outside the airport gates to Aït-Melloul (starting CAR & MOTORCYCLE price Dh30; haggle hard), from where you can The distances involved in touring southern continue to Inezgane or Agadir. Morocco make it worthwhile considering car rental. It is cheapest to book a vehicle online in BUS advance; www.economycarrentals.com offers Journeys within Agadir cost Dh4 and you can good deals in Agadir and at Al-Massira Airport. buy tickets on the bus. Buses run along Ave Local agencies charge from about Dh300 for Mohammed V between the port and Inezgane. a small car for one day, though there’s usually room for haggling. TAXI Orange petits taxis run around Agadir. Prices are Local agencies are clustered in the arcade worked out by meter; ask for it to be switched across Ave du Prince Moulay Abdallah from the on. It costs about Dh10 to cross town. bottom of Ave du 29 Février; around the junction of Ave des FAR and Blvd Hassan II; and at the Souss-Massa National corner of Ave Mohammed V and Ave du Général Park ‫منتزه سو ماسه الوطني‬ Kettani. Avis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz have offices both in the latter location and at the One of Morocco’s most significant national airport, where Thrifty and Sixt also have desks. parks and bird reserves, Souss-Massa Some accommodation options, such as Hôtel (%0528 33 38 80; www.tinyurl.com/ohwlnjs; Bi- Petite Suède (p362), also offer car hire. ougra) stretches down the coast from Inez- gane, a block of over 330 sq km of protected Scooters and motorbikes are also available, land between the main north–south high- but you should check the state of the machines way and the beach. It is a spectacular and carefully. wild place of cliffs, sand dunes, farmland, coastal steppes and forests. TAXI Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a GTShOe teUtSSiSon-ugMsAsSrVSoaAulnNldPe y The park was created in 1991 in recogni- The main grand-taxi rank is located at the tion of its importance as a feeding ground south end of Rue de Fès. Destinations include for birds. The Souss estuary, at the northern Essaouira (Dh80), Inezgane (Dh5) and Tarou- end of the park, and in particular the Massa dannt (Dh32). coastal lagoon, near the southern end, are popular with birdwatchers. The best times 88 Getting Around for birdwatching are March to April and October to November. Birds found here in- TO/FROM THE AIRPORT clude ospreys, marbled ducks, cormorants, The easiest option is to organise a transfer greater flamingos, flocks of sandgrouse and through your accommodation or hire a grand warblers. But the biggest attraction is the taxi. northern bald ibis. These birds, revered in ancient Egypt and once widespread in cen- Bus 37 runs from outside the airport (about tral Europe, North Africa and the Middle 500m straight out on the road) to Inezgane East, are an endangered species, with the (Dh8; every 40 minutes or so between 6.45am world’s only sizeable population found on and 10.15pm), from where you can continue to this stretch of coast. Tourism development is an ongoing threat to the four local breed- AIRPORT TAXIS ing grounds, which remain off-limits, but you can spot ibises around Oued Massa or at You can catch a taxi straight from Al- the mouth of the Tamri River. Massira Airport to numerous destina- The park is also a great place for walk- tions. Tariffs for private hire, which are ing. Animals such as jackals, red foxes, wild displayed at the airport information cats, genets and Eurasian wild boars are booth: found here, while a large fenced area in the Agadir or Inezgane Dh200 north of the park contains species that have Essaouira or Goulimime Dh1000 disappeared from the south, including Dor- Mirleft Dh700 cas and dama gazelles, addaxes, red-necked Tafraoute Dh900 ostriches and scimitar-horned oryxes. Taghazout Dh300 Taroudannt or Tiznit Dh450

367 Guides can be arranged in the village of 88 Getting There & Away Massa, some 60km south of Agadir (sign- posted from the N1). From there, a track Grands taxis travel between Agadir and Tag- leads along the river to the estuary mouth hazout (Dh10) via Aourir and Tamraght. (5km) and a tarred road leads to Sidi R’bat (8km). This tiny village has two claims to Tamraght & Aourir ‫طمر ات و اوريد‬ Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a NTGhoe terttSihonugosfTshAVgearldeli&eryAway fame. Supposedly it is where the biblical Jonah was vomited up by a whale, and also Aourir and Tamraght are known collectively where Uqba bin Nafi, the 7th-century Arab as Banana Village because of the banana conqueror of Morocco, rode his horse tri- groves alongside Oued Tamraght, which umphantly into the sea and called on God separates the villages. Respectively some to witness that he could find no land left to 12km and 14km north of Agadir, they share conquer. Banana Beach, which can be good for begin- ner surfers at its southern end. Aourir has oKsar Massa (%0661 28 03 19; www. facilities including a petrol station, a post office and banks. ksarmassa.com; Sidi R’bat; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh1411/1962/2693, tent s/d Dh700/1100, lunch/ At Rocher du Diable, round the headland dinner Dh170/300; aWs), spectacularly lo- to the north of Banana Beach, Imourane cated on Sidi R’bat beach, is a fantastical Surf Island (%0614 12 20 00; www.imour- destination in itself. The terracotta-and- anesurfisland.com; wetsuit/board rental per day blue contemporary kasbah is a wonderful Dh50/100, 2½hr lesson Dh200) offers surfboard place to unwind, with hazy ocean views rental and lessons. As in Taghazout, various from its perch above the pale sands. Luxuri- companies offer accommodation and surf ously spacious rooms and suites are painted packages. in bright colours and meals are sumptuous affairs with multiple dishes. Management At the southern end of Banana Beach, can arrange guided trips into the park and Villa Mandala (%0528 31 47 73; www.surfma- throughout the region. To get there, fol- roc.co.uk; Aourir; r per person incl breakfast Dh400- low the signs from Massa or 3km south of 500; Ws) is run by Surf Maroc and geared Belfaa. towards surfers. The decor mixes traditional and contemporary, with a curvy pool and Next to Ksar Massa, La Dune (%0666 80 white, rug-scattered interior. 78 24; www.ladune.de; Sidi R’bat; s/d/tr incl break- fast Dh400/500/650, tent per person incl breakfast The kitschy Hotel Littoral (%0528314726; from Dh100, dinner Dh70; a) has basic two- and www.hotellittoral.com; Rte d’Essaouira, Aourir; s/d/ four-person Berber tents, a pleasantly cool tr/q/apt incl breakfast Dh240/328/477/686/987; tented restaurant and African-themed, occa- Ws) is basic but comfortable, with a bar- sionally garish rooms with balconies. restaurant and well-equipped en-suite rooms. 88 Getting There & Away At the northern end of the beach, Banana From Agadir and Inezgane, Tiznit-bound local Beach (Tamraght; mains Dh70; hbreakfast & buses and grands taxis will drop you in Belfaa or lunch) is the perfect spot to while away a few Massa (about Dh20). From either, a grand taxi to hours, offering sunloungers on the sands Sidi R’bat costs about Dh200. Accommodation and seafood, omelettes, sandwiches and cold options in Sidi R’bat also offer transfers to/from beer. Chez Brahim (Rocher du Diable; mains Agadir airport (about Dh400). From Massa, it is Dh70; hlunch & dinner) is smarter, serving about an hour’s walk to Oued Massa river mouth; hearty fish or meat platters (from Dh150) on 4WDs also head into the park, but both Oued its seafront terrace. Massa and Oued Souss are usually accessible by 2WD (or grand taxi). Taghazout ‫تاغزوت‬ North of Agadir Six kilometres from Tamraght, the laid-back fishing village of Taghazout, once famous for Despite the villas, fun parks, golf courses calamari and hippies, is now considered Mo- and development projects colonising the rocco’s premier surfing destination for both coast around Agadir, if you’re looking for pros and learners. Surf breaks such as Hash surf and less crowded beaches, head north. Point, Panorama, Anchor Point, La Source, There are sandy coves every few kilometres. Killer Point and Mysteries surround the vil- lage. The surf is most reliable from October to April.

368 Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TNShloeeretSphionuogsfs&AVgEaaldtlienryg route du miel (honey route), and stalls sell If you just want to hang out, haul your the sweet stuff as well as argan oil. Signs by the road point to walking trails. hammock elsewhere; the scruffy roadside village is a mixed-up place, a dry tourist The famous cascades of Immouzzer are town where surf culture dominates. The one of North Africa’s most beautiful water- main beach is great for swimming, but dur- falls. The calcium-rich water flows most ing and after the Moroccon summer holiday, strongly between February and August, the influx of domestic tourists overwhelms although recent droughts have frequently the village’s infrastructure. reduced it to a trickle. Given the stream of tourist stalls and faux guides (unofficial Taghazout has internet cafes and a phar- guides) leading to the falls, you may prefer macy, but most facilities are in Aourir. Paradise Valley. Run by a group of British surfers, Surf When it’s flowing, water falls off the edge Maroc (%0528 20 02 72, 0675 46 06 37, in UK of the plateau in several chutes, running 0044 1794 322 709; www.surfmaroc.co.uk; W) down one cliff face known as the Bride’s offers accommodation, guiding, lessons, Veil. The path to the foot of the falls finishes yoga, equipment and car hire, appealing to at an iridescent blue plunge pool with over- experts and learners alike. Accommodation hanging rocks and foliage. If you can cross comes with splashes of surf cool at Tag- the river here, you can climb to a plateau hazout Villa (%0528 20 03 68; www.surfmaroc. and see the top plunge pool, and caves once co.uk/taghazoutvilla; r per person incl breakfast inhabited by hippies. The steep, 4km road Dh350; W) and L’Auberge (%0528 20 02 72; from Immouzzer village down to the falls is www.surfmaroc.co.uk/auberge; r per person incl one of many walks in the region. breakfast Dh250; W); at the time of writing, Surf Maroc was set to open a boutique hotel The area turns white in February and with a pool, hammam and licensed restau- March when the almond trees blossom. rant in late 2014. There is a honey harvest and festival in July and August, and around late November you Numerous locals have followed in Surf may be lucky enough to witness the olive Maroc’s wake, offering accommodation harvest. Locals climb into the trees to shake and surf packages. Taghazout Surf Hos- olives from the branches and oil is pressed tel (%0676 06 94 95; www.taghazoutsurfhostel. in the village. Thursday is souq day. com; r incl breakfast from Dh330; W), run by the friendly Yassine, has basic double, twin, 4 Sleeping & Eating quadruple and six-bed rooms with shared bathrooms. Locals also rent out apartments There are cafes at the bottom of the path to and rooms, which may be your only option the falls, and on the way up. The hotels in in summer if you have not booked ahead. Paradise Valley are spread out about 30km Taghazout Bay Apartments (%0671 63 89 from Aourir. 83; www.taghazoutsurfcars.com; per person Dh150) offers tidy self-catering accommodation and oAuberge le Panoramic HOTEL € car hire. (%0528 21 67 09; www.auberge-le-panoramic. com; Paradise Valley; s/d/tr incl half-board There are several cafes and snack bars (all Dh280/500/750; as) The new block at this unlicensed) on the main road. At the foot of friendly stop on the route du miel is the the lanes leading to the beach, the cafe at pick of Paradise Valley’s accommodation, L’Auberge (mains Dh60; hbreakfast, lunch & with almost vertigo-inducing views from the dinner) is a funky hangout serving Moroccan en-suite rooms’ balconies. The restaurant and international food, including recom- serves tajines, omelettes, brochettes and a mended fruit juices and Moroccan chicken stew. Immouzzer des Ida Outanane breakfast featuring three honeys, produced by the beehives on the slopes below. ‫ايموزار ادو اوتنان‬ This thoroughly recommended detour takes Hotel Tifrit HOTEL € you about 60km (two hours’ drive) northeast (%0528 21 67 08; www.hotel-tifrit.net; Paradise Val- of Agadir, into the High Atlas foothills. On ley; s/d incl half board Dh300/450; as) Right the way you pass through the aptly named by the river in the palmeraie (palm grove), Paradise Valley, an oleander- and palm- near the waterfall of the same name, Tifrit lined gorge, and a popular picnic and swim- has six en-suite rooms with big windows ming spot. Local producers have formed a overlooking the palms.

369 Auberge Bab Immouzer HOTEL € History (%0670 13 10 06; www.aubergebabimouzer.com; Paradise Valley; r Dh250-300; as) Well kept Taroudannt was one of the early bases of but low on atmosphere, Bab Immouzer has the Almoravids, who established themselves six en-suite rooms and a series of terraces here in AD 1056, at the beginning of their overlooking the neighbouring palmeraie conquest of Morocco. In the 16th century, and valley. Poolside rooms have balconies the emerging Saadians made it their capital with a view. for about 20 years. By the time they moved on to Marrakesh, they had turned the Hôtel des Cascades HOTEL €€ Souss Valley, in which the city stands, into (%0528 82 60 23; www.cascades-hotel.net; s/d the country’s most important producer of Dh460/572; as) In a wonderful location on sugar cane, cotton, rice and indigo; all valu- the edge of Immouzzer village, perched high able trade items on the trans-Saharan trade above the valley, this hotel is set in a riotous routes the dynasty was keen to control. The garden with tennis courts. Flower baskets Saadians constructed the old part of town and artwork decorate the terrace and corri- and the kasbah, though most of it was de- dors; the 27 rooms have small balconies, and stroyed and the inhabitants massacred in there’s a licensed restaurant (mains Dh75). 1687 by Moulay Ismail, as punishment for Paths descend 4km from the garden to the opposing him. Only the ramparts survived. cascades. The hotel also has a self-catering Most of what stands inside them dates from house 20km away, en route to Essaouira. the 18th century. 88 Getting There & Away Taroudannt continued to be a centre of intrigue and sedition against the central Buses and grands taxis run between Aourir and government well into the 20th century, and Immouzzer (Dh25) until about 4pm. From Aga- indeed played host to El-Hiba, a southern dir, it is hard to visit the falls in a day by public chief who opposed the Treaty of Fès, the transport; you can visit on a tour or hire a grand 1912 agreement that created the French taxi. Thursday, when Immouzzer’s weekly mar- Protectorate. ket takes place, is a good day to pick up a lift but a bad time to drive as the narrow road is busy. 1 Sights Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TGahertetoSiuondugasnTshnVetarlel&e yAway Between October and May, the river sometimes destroys the road. Ramparts HISTORIC SITE The 7.5km of ramparts surrounding Tarou- dannt are among the best-preserved pisé walls in Morocco. Their colour changes from Taroudannt ‫تارودانت‬ golden brown to deepest red depending on the time of day. They can easily be explored POP 70,000 Taroudannt (also spelled Taroudant) is on foot (two hours), preferably in the late sometimes called ‘Little Marrakesh’, but that description doesn’t do the Souss Valley trad- afternoon; or take a bike or horse-drawn calèche and see the walls by moonlight. ing centre justice. Hidden by magnificent red-mud walls, and with the snowcapped Gates HISTORIC SITE peaks of the High Atlas beckoning beyond, Built in the 16th and 17th centuries, a string of mighty defensive towers create the gates Taroudannt’s souqs and squares have a of the city. Considered the main gate, the healthy sprinkling of Maghrebi mystique. Yet it is also a practical place, a market town triple-arched Bab el-Kasbah (also known as Bab Essalsla) is approached via an av- where Berbers trade the produce of the rich enue of orange trees. Steps lead to the top and fertile Oued Souss plain. There aren’t any must-see sights. Instead, of the tower, where you can walk along the ramparts. Near Bab el-Kasbah, Bab Sedra the medina is a place to stroll and linger. (cyclists and pedestrians only) leads to the The two souqs are well worth a browse, more laid-back than Marrakesh but with kasbah. an atmosphere of activity that is missing Kasbah KASBAH in Agadir. With the little-explored western High Atlas, the Anti Atlas and the coast all The old kasbah quarter, originally a fortress built by Moulay Ismail, is today a poor but nearby, the town makes a good base for trek- safe residential area, where winding lanes king and activities. Just 65km inland from Al-Massira Airport, it is a more atmospheric and low archways lead to tiny squares and dead ends. The governor’s palace, on the staging post to/from the airport than Agadir.

370 e# 0 66400m 0 0.2 miles Taroudannt BC D A Sunday Morning D Souq (350m) im 1 10 ÿ# Ave Bir Zaran Derb Tafellagt -rRiaoIubdraanhi 66Bab bSehnarAiabdAalllalal h Sh a el-Djedid 1 ar 12 ÿ# 14 #ú Tinghir 20 Août C#aAr#úsve#ú1M71o3ulay Rachidî# KASBAH 11 62 Ave du Saadian 4 Gates ÿ#8 ÿ# Ø# æ# 2 7 ÿ# .# #æ 1 2 Ave Prince H 18 i er Sidi Place al- #û érit ò# Alaouyine Place (Place Assarag) Andalous Ave du Ave Hassan II 20 Août Brahim Crédit du Maroc 16 Ave MohammeBdikVes 5 #ú Chambres d'Hôtes Ø# ì#ì# Banque Populaire Alge Cars Les Amis (1.2km) æ# ì# 2#þ0#IVnoeyzaggaense D # 3 BMCE 6ÿ# #û.# # 3 ÿ# (ATM) ß# Grand 3 9 Mosquée Place an-Nasr 19 AveEedld-Mahabnisour (Place Talmoqlate) #þ 21 Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TAahctreiovSuiotduiaesnsnVtall e y Bab Bab Benyara Zorgane 4 .# Bus StaCtiToMn›#›#˜#Grands 4 Taxis D Ave Mohamm 15 #ú V .# A ed B C eastern side of the kasbah, now forms part Calèche CARRIAGE TOUR of Hôtel Palais Salam. You can tour the ramparts in a calèche. The horse-drawn carriages gather just inside Bab Place al-Alaouyine SQUARE el-Kasbah, on Pl al-Alaouyine and at other (Place Assarag) During Moroccan holidays, prominent spots. A one-way trip across town the grand place is like Marrakesh’s Djemaa el-Fna in miniature, with storytellers, snake should cost roughly the same as by petit taxi, although the driver may disagree; don’t charmers, escapologists and performers pay more than Dh20. For a one-hour tour, working the crowds. including the medina, a circuit of the ram- parts and a small tannery, don’t pay more 2 Activities than Dh100. oLa Maison Anglaise CULTURAL TOUR Trekking TREKKING (%0661 23 66 27, 0528 55 16 28; www.sites.google. Taroudannt is a great base for trekking in com/site/cecumaisonanglaise/activities; 422 Derb Afferdou) Excellent guides and activities in- the western High Atlas region, including the secluded Tichka Plateau, a delightful area cluding trekking, Berber village visits and of highland meadows and hidden gorges homestays, wildlife trips, cookery lessons, and visits to the soap-making and beekeep- (two days minimum). The Afensou and Tizi n’Test areas are ideal for day walks. ing cooperatives they support. Day trips Agencies in town offer treks; insist on trav- to the valley at Afensou in the High Atlas involve walking through olive groves to a elling with a qualified guide. Charges start at about Dh350 per person per day, includ- swimming hole. ing transport and picnic. In addition to the

371 Taroudannt du 20 Août is a thoroughfare, so ask for a room at the rear. Half-board is available. æ Sights 1 Bab el-Kasbah .......................................D2 Hôtel Taroudannt HOTEL € 2 Bab Sedra ..............................................D2 (%0528 85 24 16; Place al-Alaouyine; s/d/tr from 3 Place al-Alaouyine ................................A3 Dh160/200/300; a) In this central option, tiled corridors lead past a restaurant and Ø Activities, Courses & Tours jungly courtyard to rooms with simple bath- 4 Calèches.................................................D2 rooms. The drawbacks are the noise from Pl 5 Calèches.................................................A3 al-Alaouyine and the popular courtyard bar, La Maison Anglaise..................... (see 10) which may make women feel uncomfortable. ÿ Sleeping Chambres d’Hôtes ¨ 6 Hôtel el-Warda ......................................B3 7 Hôtel Palais Salam................................D2 des Amis MAISON D’HÔTE € 8 Hotel Saadiens ......................................B2 (%0667 60 16 86; www.chambresdesamis.com; 9 Hôtel Taroudannt..................................A3 Sidi Belkas; s/d incl breakfast Dh80/160; W) This 10 La Maison Anglaise............................... A1 good-value guesthouse has aged but big 11 Palais Oumensour ................................B2 rooms, basic bathrooms with intermittent 12 Ryad Tafilag........................................... C1 hot water, a couple of salons, and a roof terrace for breakfast. It’s 800m west of Bab ú Eating Taghount (on the west side of the ramparts) 13 Chez Nada .............................................C2 at the beginning of the open countryside, al- 14 Fruit & Vegetable Market..................... B1 though street noise and the nearby mosque 15 Jnane Soussia .......................................B4 overwhelm any suburban tranquillity. The 16 L'Agence ................................................C3 proprietor, Said Dayfollah, offers bike hire, 17 Mehdi Snack..........................................C2 trekking and activities, pick-ups from Al- Massira Airport (Dh300) and meals on û Drinking & Nightlife request (Dh70). 18 Cafe Andalous .......................................B2 19 Orange-Juice Stands............................B3 Hôtel el-Warda HOTEL € Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TSahl reeeoSpuiodnuagsnsnVtall e y (%0528 85 27 63; Pl an-Nasr; s/d/tr Dh80/ þ Shopping 100/130) This ultra-cheapie has a zellij (tile- 20 Souq Arabe ............................................B3 work) terrace overlooking Pl an-Nasr and 21 Souq Berbère ........................................B3 basic 2nd-floor rooms with shared toilets and showers. Solo female travellers might trekking guides available through accom- find the alley entrance and male-dominated modation, Abdellatif Abassi (%0670 59 13 1st-floor cafe difficult. 88; [email protected]) is uncertified but recommended by readers, and can organise oPalais Oumensour BOUTIQUE HOTEL, RIAD €€ mules and village homestays. (%0528 55 02 15; www.palaisoumensour.com; Al 4 Sleeping Mansour Borj Oumensour Tadjount; r/ste incl break- fast Dh770/990; aWs) Tasteful, tranquil and Budget hotels on and around the two central good value, Palais Oumensour hides away squares offer basic accommodation and roof on a medina lane by the Catholic church terraces, good for sunbathing and people- garden. Above the central courtyard with watching, while the midrange hotels listed its jade pool, the four doubles and six suites below offer pick-ups from Agadir Al-Massira are a winning mix of modern comforts and Airport (Dh400) and can organise activities. traditional materials, with Georges Braque prints and tadelakt (polished lime plaster) Hotel Saadiens HOTEL € walls. In the elegant public spaces is a ham- (%0528 85 25 89; [email protected]; Ave mam, a massage room, a roof terrace with du 20 Août; s/d Dh220/280; Ws) Signposted High Atlas views, two Jacuzzis and a bar. from all over town, Saadiens has aged but spacious rooms with reasonable en-suite oLa Maison Anglaise bathrooms, stripy bedspreads and Berber GUESTHOUSE €€ (%0661 23 66 27, 0528 55 16 28; www.sites.google. designs on the doors. Despite the gloomy, com/site/cecumaisonanglaise; 422 Derb Afferdou; echoing corridors, it is a central retreat from the medina, with a 1st-floor lounge and s/d incl breakfast Dh350/550; aiW) On a quiet street north of Taroudannt’s central mountain views from the roof terrace. Ave hubbub, this Green Key–certified medina

372 Putting together a picnic is easy in Tar- house makes a comfortable and welcoming oudannt. In addition to stalls in the souqs, base, run by a brilliant team of lovely locals. there’s a fruit and vegetable market (Ave As well as nine en-suite rooms, there is a du 20 Août) at the northern end of Ave Bir kitchen for self-catering, a roof terrace with Zaran. La Maison Anglaise (p371) also views of the High and Anti Atlas, informa- makes picnics (Dh50) for nonguests. tive displays in the tiled corridors, and a small library. Breakfast and meals are feasts, oL’Agence MOROCCAN, FRENCH € too. What really makes this British-owned (%0528 55 02 70; Ave Prince Héretier Sidi Mo- option special is the staff, who help you get hammed; mains Dh50, set menu Dh110; hlunch & to grips with local culture, whether on their dinner) Behind the Grand Mosquée, this de- tours (p370) or by just pointing you in the lightful little restaurant serves dishes from right direction. As the name suggests, Eng- the French-Moroccan proprietors’ home- lish is spoken. lands, with mains such as chicken pas- Ryad Tafilag BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ tilla and goat tajine on offer. The starters (%0528 85 06 07; www.riad-tafilag.com; DerbTafel- lagt; s/d/tr incl breakfast from Dh550/605/770; include delicious tasting plates, which you can enjoy among lanterns hanging from aiWs) Consisting of a few medina hous- wooden beams and artworks in alcoves. es joined together, this creative and original hotel is a warren of spiral staircases, ter- Chez Nada MOROCCAN € (%0528 85 17 26; Ave Moulay Rachid; mains races, lounges, hidey holes and a hammam. Dh55-95, set menu Dh80; hlunch & dinner) This You may feel like Alice in Wonderland ex- ploring its corners, or just feel irritated 60-year-old restaurant specialises in tajines, including one with pigeon (or chicken), when you forget your camera and face a prunes and grilled almonds. Above the male- multistorey expedition to fetch it. The eight relaxing rooms and suites, three of which dominated ground-floor cafe and elegant white 1st-floor dining room, the roof terrace have private terraces, place guests’ needs has views over public gardens. Pastilla and above the dictates of design, managing to Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TEahtreionSuogduasnsnVtall e y be unfussily artistic throughout. Free bikes royal couscous (Dh75 to Dh95) should be or- dered two hours ahead. are offered to guests. Hôtel Palais Salam KASBAH €€ Mehdi Snack FAST FOOD € (off Ave Moulay Rachid; set menu & pizza Dh20-70; (%0528 85 25 01; www.hotel-palais-salam-tar h10am-11pm) Located at the back of Chez oudant.com; kasbah; s/d/ste incl breakfast from Dh582/674/1424; Ws) This former pasha’s Nada, and run by the same family, this snack bar sells burgers, pizzas, brochettes and residence, entered through the east wall salads. of the kasbah, lives up to its palatial name, with gardens, pools, courtyards and foun- tains (one inhabited by turtles) on various Jnane Soussia MOROCCAN €€ (%0528 85 49 80; Ave Mohammed V; mains Dh80; levels. With their traditional decor, the hlunch & dinner) This recommended gar- older, ground-floor rooms have an authen- tic feel, but the newer rooms, behind pink den restaurant has tented seating areas set around a large swimming pool adjacent walls and blue shutters, are more spacious. to the ramparts. The house specialities in- Rooms and bathrooms are disappointing compared with newer options, as is the clude mechoui (whole roast lamb) and pi- geon pastilla, which have to be ordered in service, but it remains a wonderful environ- advance, but the chicken tajine with lemon ment, with a bar and Moroccan and inter- national restaurants. and olives is good for a light lunch and everything is decent. 5 Eating 6 Drinking & Nightlife The hotel cafes and touristy eateries on Pl al-Alaouyine are good for breakfast on the There is a line of fresh orange-juice stands square, and serve tajines and simple grills on Pl an-Nasr. Hôtel Palais Salam and Hôtel later in the day. The best place to look for Taroudannt have bars. cheap eats is around Pl an-Nasr and north along Ave Bir Zaran, where you will find Cafe Andalous JUICE BAR the usual tajines, harira (lentil soup) and salads. (Pl Andalous; smoothies Dh10) Beneath a den- tist’s sign on a small square adjoining Ave

373 Bir Zaran, this cheerful place is good for a Banks on Pl al-Alaouyine have ATMs, money- mixed-fruit smoothie. changing facilities and visa services. Internet cafes are found along Aves Bir Zaran and 7 Shopping Mohammed V. Hospital (Ave Moulay Rachid) Taroudannt is the central Chleuh city of the Inezgane Voyages (%0528 55 06 46; Pl an- Souss, so it is a good place to look for the Nasr; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat) quality silver jewellery for which this tribe Represents airlines including RAM. is renowned. The jewellery is influenced Post Office (Ave du 20 Août; h8.30am- both by Saharan tribes and by the Jewish 4.30pm Mon-Fri) silversmiths who formed a significant part of the community until the late 1960s. 88 Getting There & Away oSouq Arabe ARTS & CRAFTS BUS Buses depart from the station outside Bab Zor- The main souq, also known as the grand gane. CTM (% 0528 85 38 58; Bab Zorgane) has souq, has antique and souvenir shops hid- the most reliable buses, with at least one daily den in the quiet streets. The area southwest service to each of the following: of the mosque is good for present shopping, with a small square of jewellery shops just off Ave Bir Zaran. DESTINATION COST (DH) DURATION (HR) Agadir 35 3 Souq Berbère ARTS & CRAFTS, CARPETS Casablanca 195 8 Marrakesh 100 4 Also known as the marché municipal, this Ouarzazate 105 5 souq on the south side of Pl an-Nasr sells carpets, jewellery, argan oil, musical instru- ments, lamps, leatherwork and ceramics – past the trainers and mobile phones on the Other companies serve Agadir and Inezgane central thoroughfare. (Dh25, 1½ hours, hourly), Taliouine (Dh70, 1½ hours, daily) and Tata (Dh80, five hours, Sunday Morning Souq FOOD & DRINK daily). Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TSahreoopSpuoidunasgnsnVtall e y This large market, held outside Bab el- CAR Khemis north of the kasbah, brings in people The best option is to hire a car from one of the from the whole region. major companies operating at Agadir Al-Massira Airport. 88 Information There are local agencies in Taroudannt, Taroudannt has no ‘European’ quarter or ville including Alge Cars (%0615 09 04 13; alge- nouvelle (new town). Most facilities are found [email protected]; Ave Prince Héretier Sidi Mo- on and around the two central squares, Pl al- hammed, opposite mosque; per day Dh300) Alaouyine (formerly Pl Assarag) and Pl an-Nasr and Tinghir Cars (%0661 19 02 89; Ave Moulay (formerly Pl Talmoqlate). Rachid). ARGAN COUNTRY As you travel along the N10 east of Taroudannt you will see frizzy argan trees, beloved of local goats and international chefs, growing near the road. In a restored 19th-century mansion on the edge of the Berber village of Ouled Berhil, some 45km northeast of Taroudannt, is Hôtel Palais Riad Hida (%0528 53 10 44; www. riadhida.com; s/d incl half-board Dh638/1067; aWs). Accommodation is in nondescript bungalows, but it’s a special environment from the moment you cross the tiled thresh- old and clap eyes on the central courtyard, with its towering palms and long pools. Some 10km further on from Ouled Berhil, a signpost indicates the Tizi n’Test road, one of the most spectacular and perilous passes in the country, leading northeast over the High Atlas to Marrakesh. Approaching the mountains, this secondary road leads through a lush state-run argan preserve – a dream destination for mountain goats accustomed to slim pick- ings in the High Atlas. Stop here to picnic in the shade among frolicking kids, or stake out the herds for the ultimate Anti Atlas postcard shot: a goat casually balanced on a treetop, munching on sun-ripe argan nuts.

374 en). The centre is well worth visiting for the museum, calligrapher and informative em- TAXI ployees. They can explain saffron produc- Grands taxis gather just outside Bab Zorgane. tion, give you a tasting and sell you the spice, Destinations include the following: plus related products including chocolates, Agadir (Dh30) cosmetics and calligraphy ink. Inezgane (Dh26) Change here for frequent services to Agadir. Dar Azaafaran MUSEUM Marrakesh (Dh130) To travel via the Tizi n’Test, you will need to hire the entire taxi (Dh700 to (%0528 53 44 13; www.darazaafaran.com; h8am- Dh1000). 7pm) This modern information centre is de- voted to l’or rouge, with a small museum, 88 Getting Around saffron for sale by local cooperatives and a display of the current going rate. Taroudannt is a good place to cycle; bikes can be rented at Brahim Bikes (% 0662 74 10 91; Pl Calligraphie Tifinaghe ARTS CENTRE al-Alaouyine; per hr/day Dh10/60). Petits taxis charge Dh7 per trip (Dh10 after 8pm). (%0601 35 31 51; www.molidaz.blogspot.com) An Amazigh poet and calligrapher, Moulid Nidouissadan paints Berber proverbs and Taliouine ‫تالوين‬ colourful compositions. POP 6000 Kasbah KASBAH The straggling village of Taliouine, half- Gazing at the brown hills, the kasbah is way between Taroudannt and Ouarzazate, is dominated by hills and the impressive mostly disintegrating, but it makes a pleas- ant sunset stroll. Glaoui kasbah. Taliouine is the African centre of l’or rouge (red gold) – saffron, the world’s most Trekking TREKKING expensive spice. Numerous shops and bou- Taliouine is a popular trekking centre for nearby Jebel Siroua, which offers some of tiques sell it here for about Dh35 to Dh40 the finest walking in the Anti Atlas. The vil- per gram. The purple Crocus sativus Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TGahelteitoSiuoniugnseAsrVoaulnlde y flower, from which the spice comes, grows lage is one of the best places in the region to find trekking guides; in addition to ac- only above 1200m. It flowers between mid- commodation and Zafrani, try Maroc In- October and mid-November, when a festival is held to celebrate the harvest and you can edit (%0666 36 25 42; www.maroc-inedit.com) and Siroua Discovery (%0617 03 07 03; www. see locals picking the flowers around vil- siroua-discovery.com). lages 12km east of Taliouine. Beware ‘counterfeit saffron’; the genu- 4 Sleeping & Eating ine article should stain your fingers yellow (rather than red), taste bitter (rather than For dinner, ask for half-board at your accom- sweet) and carry a spicy price tag. modation or try Auberges le Safran or Souk- The village comes to life during the Mon- tana. At the west end of the main drag near day souq, near Auberge le Safran. the gare routière (bus station), grills smoke away, and you can get a tajine (Dh50), made 1 Sights & Activities with saffron, at Auberge Siroua. In addition to the following, there are cheap hotels on Activities can be arranged through Zafrani the main street. (%0613 88 05 26; www.zafrani.ch; Taliouine), as well as through accommodation. The Swiss- Auberge le Safran HOTEL € Moroccan company specialises in trekking, (%0668 39 42 23; www.auberge-safran.com; d/ but it organises a range of cultural tours and tr/ste from Dh170/210/300; aWs) Le Safran activities including star-gazing, skiing and has basic, colourful en-suite rooms, with meditation, catering to people and families two budget doubles on the roof terrace and of all ages. a spacious four-person suite. The salon looks across the fields at the kasbah, and down- oCoopérative Souktana stairs is a Berber tent on the patio. The hotel du Safran MUSEUM harvests its own saffron, which it sells in the (%0528 53 44 52; www.souktanadusafran.org; on-site shop-museum and uses in the deli- h8.30am-6.30pm) S Founded in 1979, the largest and oldest of Taliouine’s saffron co- cious meals. The road noise is irritating, but the service is professional. Owner Mahfoud operatives has 160 members (four are wom- offers activities including trekking, ham-

375 mam visits, saffron-based cookery courses, BUS and a saffron and argan producers tour. Taliouine has a small gare routière (bus station). There are not always seats available on the bus- Auberge Souktana HOTEL € es passing through town, so grands taxis, also (%0528 53 40 75; [email protected]; rooms found at the bus station, are a better option. s/d/tr/q Dh180/220/300/360, bungalows s/d Dh100/160, tents 1/2 people Dh50/80; W) At this TAXI trekking-orientated auberge, guests consult Ouarzazate Direct taxis are rare; you will nor- maps in the relaxing communal area, and mally have to change at Tazenakht (Dh30). owner Ahmed can offer advice and arrange Taroudannt There are direct taxis, but it will guides. Half-board is available (per person likely be quicker to change at Ouled Berhil Dh220) and the colourful rooms are pleas- (Dh28). antly decorated in traditional style. It’s east of the village, across the N10 from the kas- bah with great views of the crumbling fort. THE ANTI ATLAS Chez Souad MAISON D’HÔTE € ‫الأطلس الصغير‬ (%0671 05 68 46; [email protected]; r per person from Dh60) Overlooking a dusty soccer The Anti Atlas remains one of the least pitch behind Dar Azaafaran, this sprawl- visited parts of Morocco’s mountainscape, ing family home has a rooftop terrace with which is surprising, as it is beautiful and views of the kasbah and town. There are close to Agadir. The mountains are the eight rooms accommodating up to four stronghold of the Chleuh tribes, who live people each, three with private bathroom. in a loose confederation of villages strung Half-board is available (per person Dh160) across the barren mountains, some of them and Souad’s brother, Morad Choukri, is a still far beyond the reach of any central au- trekking guide. thority. Living in areas moulded by the de- manding landscape of granite boulders and oEscale Rando MAISON D’HÔTE €€ red-lava flows, the Chleuh have always been Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a ITnahfeorAranmoatuittiAeotlnas (%0662 54 78 28; www.escalerando.fr; s/d without devoted to their farms in the lush oasis val- bathroom Dh242/330, with bathroom Dh330/440; leys, now some of the country’s most beauti- W) Abutting the kasbah, this is a romantic lit- ful palmeraies. tle spot centred on a courtyard with gardens, lights, fountains and tortoises. There are four high-ceilinged rooms, a fully equipped kitch- Tafraoute ‫تافراوت‬ en and, for hot nights, a terrace where guests POP 5000 can sleep alongside the kasbah battlements. Nestled in the gorgeous Ameln Valley, the village of Tafraoute is surrounded on all Half-board is an extra Dh55 per person and sides by red-granite mountains. Despite its activities can be arranged. unassuming appearance, the area is quite Auberge Tobkal CAMPGROUND, APARTMENT €€ prosperous due to the hard-earned cash sent (%0528 53 43 43; www.maghrebtourism.com/au- bergetoubkal; camping Dh60, bungalow per person home by relatives working in the big cities or abroad. It is a pleasant and relaxed base incl half-board Dh220, apt Dh800-1200; Ws) This for exploring the region. tidy campground, on the main road 500m east of the turn-off for the kasbah, also has 2 Activities bungalows with en-suite bathrooms and four new apartments. The best way to see the beautiful surround- ing countryside is by walking or cycling, 88 Information and several companies and guides offer mountain-biking and trekking trips. Op- On the main road near Dar Azaafaran are banks erators have booths west of Hôtel Salama. and an internet cafe. Tafraoute Aventure (%0528 80 13 68; www. tafraout-aventure.com; bike hire per day Dh50) has 88 Getting There & Away useful colour maps of the area; you can pick up photocopies elsewhere. Tafraoute Aven- The N10 east of Taliouine crosses a beautiful ture offers information and guides for most and immense landscape, before joining the N9 activities, although there are also some ex- (the main Marrakesh–Ouarzazate road) near the cellent specialists. turn-off to Aït Benhaddou.

376 Tafraoute e# 0 200 m 1Rue1al-J1eisAh1al-Malaki 0 0.1 miles B C D 1111 1111 111HLôe111tRse111Rul Loe111ecsHh111eAarm111ssasPnaedinnietasrst(-1(T05a00Bn0mMi1mPú#a)1C;hl)-EaPMrl#ìmú#aa1R6sc5atseecØ#iPdrMieaeo#þî#Bò#opahì#ú#1u1n4a9lú#aqmTiuram1eer0ieqd#aV4n-1N2#þ-#21a#úhØ#3GzTirè#6aa˜#Rxnuidses#þ1a7l-Je2#þi0shÿ#8ð#al-ÿ#IAMnm9taeMletarokln›i#2AAeniIeAfrgnØ#1ú#iogb-#t3fhuaeÿ#uil#ìnlrksl7aiae(-(Bs2MP212a25loa5n5ú#mcukm›#el)a);yØ#CRT1a#þMch1O8idffice 1 Massa 1 2 11 Oued 1 Tazekka DRte de Aguerd-Oudad 1 1 1 442 D 4A B C D Tafraoute bike with a helmet, pump and puncture- repair kit. Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Au Coin des Nomades.................(see 17) Maison de Vacances BICYCLE RENTAL 1 Maison de Vacances.............................D2 (%0528 80 01 97; [email protected]; per 2 New Hammam ..................................... C1 day Dh80) Has good mountain bikes. 3 Old Hammam ........................................C2 4 Tafraoute Aventure .............................. B1 Tafraoute VTT BICYCLE RENTAL 5 Tafraoute VTT .......................................B2 6 Tawada...................................................C2 (%0670 40 93 84; www.tafraout-vtt.cla.fr; per day Dh50-80) Has bike racks for cars – useful for Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a ATahcfteirvAainottiuietsAetlas ÿ Sleeping a drive-and-cyle trip to Aït Mansour. 7 Auberge Les Amis................................. C1 8 Hôtel Salama .........................................C2 Trekking & Climbing 9 Hôtel Tanger.......................................... C1 Tafraoute and the Anti Atlas offer numerous climbing routes and trekking possibilities, ú Eating though most of the walks are strenuous. 10 Café-Restaurant Atlas..........................B2 11 Cafe-Restaurant Panorama ................ B1 Au Coin des Nomades CLIMBING, HIKING 12 Fruit & Vegetable Market.....................B2 13 Fruit & Vegetable Market..................... C1 (%0661 62 79 21; [email protected]) Hous- 14 L'Étoile d'Agadir....................................B2 sine Laroussi, a respected climber, is a good 15 Restaurant La Kasbah..........................D2 source of trekking and climbing informa- 16 Restaurant L'Étoile du Sud.................. B1 tion, guides, books and topograpical maps. He can also organise village homestays. þ Shopping 17 Au Coin des Nomades..........................C2 Tawada HIKING, CLIMBING 18 Maison du Troc .....................................D2 19 Maison Tuareg ......................................B2 (%0661 82 26 77; www.guide-tafraout.com) Ac- 20 Maison Tuareg booth ........................... C1 credited English-speaking guide Brahim 21 Souq .......................................................B2 Bahou offers information and guided treks lasting from one day upwards, and can or- ganise mules. Cycling Hammams The palm-filled Aït Mansour Gorges, lead- Tafraoute is a good place for an authentic ing towards the bald expanses of the south- hammam experience as some houses here ern Anti Atlas, and the Pierres Bleues (p379) still lack water. There are three in town; are great destinations. Several places rent massages are available at the new hammam out bikes of varying quality; expect to pay (Dh10; hmen 7am-10pm, women to 7pm) behind about Dh50/80 per day for a road/mountain Auberge Les Amis, although the male-only old hammam (Dh10; hmen 7am-10pm), just behind the market, is more authentic.

z Festivals & Events 377 Almond Blossom Festival FESTIVAL service, good breakfast, lounge, terraces, and advice from the helpful owner Mustapha, an (hMar) The Tafraoute area celebrates its English-speaking trekking afficionado. almond harvest at the Almond Blossom Auberge Les Amis HOTEL € Festival. (%0528 80 19 21; [email protected]; r without bathroom incl breakfast Dh170, s/d with 4 Sleeping bathroom incl breakfast Dh130/200; aW) Over- There are two campgrounds 1km west of looking Pl Moulay Rachid, Les Amis has town on the Tiznit road (R104). nine basic rooms on three floors, and a Ber- ber tent (per person Dh60) on the roof ter- oHôtel Salama HOTEL € race. The bathrooms are slightly whiffy but (%0528 80 00 26; www.hotelsalama.com; s/d/ tr Dh178/256/314, half-board per person Dh208; the carpet bedheads give a pleasant Berber ambience. aW) Readers recommend this hotel mix- ing local materials and modern standards, Hôtel Tanger HOTEL € (%0528 80 01 90; s/d Dh40/80) A small, with Berber artefacts decorating the cor- friendly hotel with nine basic rooms, rea- ridors and helpful staff, who speak some English. The roof terrace has mountain sonable shared bathrooms and toilets, and a roof terrace. The ground-floor cafe serves views and some rooms have balconies breakfast (Dh25), tajines (Dh35) and the overlooking the market square, which the cafe-restaurant (breakfast/set menu usual dishes. Dh23/65) opens out onto. Afoulki MAISON D’HÔTE € Les Rochers Peints HOTEL € (%0528 80 14 92; www.maisondhotes-afoulki.com; s/d Dh100/200) Above its cafe-restaurant (%0528 80 00 32; www.hotelrocherspeints-ta- (breakfast/set menu Dh20/75), Afoulki’s fraout.com; s/d/tr Dh200/300/350) The former Riad Tafraout lives up to its name with its white rooms are bland but large and clean, with shared bathrooms and a roof terrace. profusion of colourful stained glass, art- Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a FTaehfsetrAiavnoatulitsAet&lEavse n ts works, carvings, furniture, rugs, textiles, Berber decor and vintage French posters. Hôtel Les Amandiers HOTEL €€ (%0528 80 00 88; www.hotel-lesamandiers.com; Located on the edge of town, it has a wrap- s/d Dh318/436; aWs) This kasbah-like hill- around terrace with good mountain views and an airy cafe in reception. The only let- top pile has 60 reasonably attractive rooms with small balconies making the most of down is the 10 en-suite rooms, which are the incredible views of the rock formations small and stuffy. ringing Tafraoute. The pool and restaurant (set menu Dh140) share the views; the bar is Argana MAISON D’HÔTE, HOSTEL € tucked away in a corner without any vistas, (%0528 80 14 96; www.argana-tafraout.com; s/d incl breakfast from Dh120/200; aW) Recom- but you can take drinks outside. The furni- ture is rather tired and the hotel needs a mended by readers, Argana has comfortable renovation, but you may have the place to backpacker-style rooms of various sizes with shared bathrooms. Also on offer is a laundry yourself. TIZOURGANE KASBAH Overlooking the main road roughly 65km from Tafraoute and 100km from Agadir, this stunning renovated 13th-century kasbah (%0661 94 13 50; www.tizourgane-kasbah.com; Rte d’Agadir, Idaougnidif; per person incl half-board Dh330; W) would make an atmospheric last night before catching the plane home. The kasbah was essentially a fortified town, enclosing 25 houses, a mosque, granary and prison, and thick stone walls tower above the passages around the ancient structure. Rooms are simply decorated, with carpets, stripy bedspreads, fans and shared bathrooms, but derive extra romance from the set- ting. There’s a hammam and a terrace restaurant surveys the wrinkled hillsides, scat- tered villages and Jebel L’Kest. If you’re just passing, you can tour the kasbah for Dh10. Buses on the Aït Baha route to Agadir can drop you here.

378 cluding pottery, jewellery, cactus-silk blan- kets and camel-wool kilims (carpets), some 5 Eating & Drinking made by local village women. Plenty of small food stores sell basic picnic Au Coin des Nomades CRAFT, SOUVENIRS supplies to supplement the fruit, veg and olives available in the markets. For a sunset Berber handiwork and local souvenirs at beer, head to the panoramic terrace at Hôtel reasonable prices. Hours are sporadic. Les Amandiers. Café-Restaurant Atlas CAFE € Maison Tuareg CARPETS, CRAFT (meal Dh40; hlunch & dinner) The covered ter- race at Atlas is a popular local hang-out, (h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat & by ap- pointment) Stocks Berber and Tuareg carpets, with cheese omelettes, brochettes, tajines jewellery and souvenirs from the Atlas, Rif and sandwiches on the broad menu. and Sahara. Has a booth opposite Hôtel Salama. Cafe-Restaurant Panorama CAFE € (mains Dh60; hlunch & dinner; W) Recom- mended locally, this terrace eatery dishes up Souq CARPETS tajines, omelettes, large glasses of fruit juice (hTue &Wed) A lively weekly souq takes place near Hôtel Salama. Small dealers sometimes and mountain views. sell Berber carpets here. L’Étoile d’Agadir CAFE € 88 Information (breakfast Dh30; h8am-6pm) Recommended by readers, this is Tafraoute’s favourite cafe There are numerous banks with ATMs and for a continental breakfast in the morning exchange facilities in the centre. For tour- sun. After serving breakfast, L’Étoile re- ist information and local events, visit www. mains open for drinks throughout the day. tafraout.info. Internet Amelen (off Rue al-Jeish al-Malaki; oRestaurant La per hr Dh5; h8.30am-10pm) Pharmacie al-Massira (%0528 80 01 60; Kasbah REGIONAL, MOROCCAN €€ Pl al-Massira; h8am-8.30pm) (%0672 30 39 09; mains Dh70, set menu Dh90; Post Office (Pl Mohammed V; h8.30am- Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TEahtfeirnAangotu&itADetrli naski n g hbreakfast,lunch & dinner) Decorated with rugs, 4.30pm Mon-Fri) Has a bureau de change and lanterns and jewellery, this licensed restau- pay phones. rant serves dishes including tajines, harira and the house speciality, nomad tortilla: ka- lia (minced mutton with tomato, peppers, egg, onion and 44 spices served in a tajine). 88 Getting There & Away Argan oil and spices abound in all the dishes. BUS Restaurant L’Étoile du Sud MOROCCAN €€ Buses depart from outside the various company (%0528 80 00 38; set menu Dh90; hlunch & offices, mostly on Rue al-Jeish al-Malaki. dinner) L’Étoile du Sud serves a good set menu in a rather kitsch Bedouin-style tent. CTM (%0528 80 17 89; Rte Aguerd-Oudad) You may have to share the place with tour has a morning bus to the following places: groups, particularly at lunchtime, but the service is professional and on warm nights DESTINATION COST (DH) DURATION (HR) it’s one of the best places to eat. Agadir 70 6 Casablanca 245 12 7 Shopping Inezgane 70 6 Marrakesh 145 8½ Several slipper shops around the market Tiznit 40 3 area sell the traditional leather slippers (yellow for men, red for women). Look out, For destinations to the south, change in Tiznit. too, for people selling local argan and olive oil. Numerous shops around the post-office TAXI square sell Berber jewellery, argan products Station wagons and Land Rovers do the rounds and souvenirs, and shopping here is less of various villages in the area, mostly on pressurised than in the cities. market days. They hang around the post-office square, and on Rue al-Jeish al-Malaki by the oMaison du Troc CARPETS, CRAFT Afriquia petrol station at the bottom of Tariq an-Nahzi. Grands taxis leave for Tiznit (Dh40) (h10am-8pm Mon-Sat & by appointment) A good in the morning from the latter location. range of Berber and Tuareg products, in-

379 Around Tafraoute trekking guide, offers Berber music soirées Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a ATGhre otetuAinndtgiTTAahtfelrraaeso&u tAeway and tea ceremonies. Renting a mountain bike is a great way to get to most of the sights around Tafraoute. Tirnmatmat Tazekka To find the rock engravings at Tirnmatmat, take the Tiznit road (R104), then after 14km The closest of the easily accessible examples turn north at Tahala towards Aït Omar. Just of prehistoric rock engravings found in the before the village, an unmarked piste (track) Tafraoute area, the Carved Gazelle is 2km leads to Tirnmatmat, where you will find the away on the edge of the village of Tazekka. gravures (engravings) along the riverbed It’s a simple carving on the top face of a (the local kids will lead you there, or engage fallen block. The easiest way to find it is to a guide from Tafraoute). The village sits in a walk along Rte de Tazekka, then make en- lovely spot and there are excellent walks in quiries when you reach the village. It’s not all directions. far from Camping Tazka on the Tiznit road (R104), so you could, alternatively, ask for Le Châpeau de Napoléon & the directions there. Pierres Bleues oMaison Traditionnelle The village of Aguerd-Oudad, 3km south of Tafraoute, makes for a nice stroll or bike (%0673 82 90 54; [email protected]; ride. From the roundabout by the Afriquia adult Dh15; h8am-6pm) This place stands in petrol station in Tafraoute, take the road to the largely uninhabited old hilltop village, Tiznit via Izerbi. On the way you will see the where bulging boulders have been incor- unmistakable rock formation known as Le porated into the pisé walls of the centuries- Châpeau de Napoléon (Napoleon’s Hat). old houses. You can visit the Carved Gazelle as part of a tour of the four-floor dwelling, Some 7km south of Tafraoute, 500m past where the knowledgeable proprietor Mah- the foot of the road to the Afella-Ighir oasis, foud’s family once lived. It’s possible to stay a ‘touristique piste’ leads uphill to the right the night here (per person including break- to the Pierres Bleues (Painted Rocks), the fast/half-board Dh150/230) and Mahfoud, a work of Belgian artist Jean Verame. Around Tafraoute 0 10 km 0 5 miles Anirgui Tagdichte JEBEL L' KEST Agouchtim Touli (1470m) (1420m) Tizi Titki Tagmoute Anammer Tandilt Oumesnate Mlil Tazoulte Taguenza Tafraoute 7174 Carved Tazekka Gazelle Rock Tirnmatmat Afella Aguerd Taghzout Engravings Oudad Aït Ouaday 7148 Omar Pierres Le CNhaâppoeléaounAdra(r2M34q4omrn) Bleues de Tahala Ksar R104 Taghaout Tlata Tasrirte Aït Mansour Tarsouate Talkanount 7146 Aït Tizerkine Mansour Gorges Circuit Tanrarte d'Afella Ighir Fighil Gdourt Tiwadou Souq el-Had Issi Timguilcht Gorges Izerbi

380 Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a GT he tetAin tgi TAhtelraes & Away AFELLA-IGHIR Southeast of Tafraoute is the pretty oasis of Afella-Ighir. Leave Tafraoute on the Aguerd– Oudad road, turning left a few kilometres south of the village, and travel roughly 25km over a mountain pass through Tlata Tasrirte to the start of the dramatic Aït Mansour Gorges. You can see the Pierres Bleues from the road up to the pass, which is often foggy and sometimes snowed over in winter. You can drive through the gorges in a normal car if it hasn’t rained, but walking or mountain biking is the best way to appreciate this atmospheric area, where red cliff faces tower above the palms. In the village of Aït Mansour at the beginning of the gorges and oasis, Auberge Aït Mansour (%0676 73 51 98; www.auberge-ait-mansour-hanane- blogspot.com; r/half-board per person Dh80/170) offers mattresses on the floor and squat toilets. Owner Abdou can guide you to the old village nearby for oasis views. A little further on, Chez Messaoud (%0670 79 35 67, 0528 21 83 38; half-board per person Dh150) is equally basic, although there are flush toilets. It serves tea and sells water and basic provisions. Breakfast (Dh40) and meals (Dh60) are available if you book ahead. Follow the road through a string of villages perched above the oasis, until you reach the T-junction in Gdourt after about 8km. Turn right here for Tiznit or to loop back to Tafraoute. Turning left, the next village is Souq el-Had Issi, a rather depressing settle- ment that accommodates workers from the nearby gold mine. From Souq el-Had Issi, the road leads south to Aït Herbil. After about 12km, there are some impressive rock carvings in Ukas, although you need a guide to find them. A turn-off 1km beyond Souq el-Had Issi leads 5km northeast to the village of Tiwadou, where the family-run Auberge Sahnoun (%0667 09 53 76, 0528 21 83 65; [email protected]; r per person incl half-board Dh150) is on the edge of a palmeraie (palm grove). It has three basic but cosy rooms, with mattresses on the floor and a good shared bathroom with hot water, and a roof terrace. The auberge’s late owner, Mohamed Sahnoun, was involved in village development projects. In a 4WD, you can continue from Tiwadou through the Timguilcht Gorges to Tlata Tasrirte (about 20km). At the time of writing, it was not possible to drive this circuit in a 2WD vehicle, as the road disintegrates after Tanrarte; the tarred road is being extended, so it should be possible in the future. Daily minibuses run through the villages to Tafraoute (Dh25), leaving Tiwadou at about 5am and returning around 11am. Tafraoute Aventure (p375) offers a 4WD day trip incorporating walks in Aït Mansour and Timguilcht Gorges, Ukas and lunch in Tiwadou (Dh1200 for the vehicle, including driver and fuel). Verame spray-painted the smooth, round- Ameln Valley & Jebel ed boulders in shades of blue, red, purple L’Kest ‫جبل لكست و اميلن وادي‬ and black in 1984 and, although the rocks have a faded air, they remain strange and Tafraoute lies in a basin, largely surrounded impressive against the landscape. Local lore by craggy brown cliffs and rocks. To the has it that the villagers give these incongru- northwest lies one such ridge, on the other ous tourist attractions a fresh coat of paint side of which runs the Ameln Valley. North every year. of the valley is Jebel L’Kest (2359m). From Tafraoute you can make out a rock forma- The packed earth track is passable in tion in this range that resembles a lion’s a normal car, but this is prime mountain- face. Villagers will jokingly tell you that he biking territory. You can see the rocks after is there to guard the women while their hus- a couple of kilometres, then ride or drive bands are away working. right up to them some 5km away. The track leads 9km to the village of Afella Ouaday, From Tafraoute, the Agadir road (R104) 5km from Tafraoute on the Tiznit road takes you to the valley, dotted with pictur- (R104). esque Berber villages. Four kilometres out

381 of Tafraoute, the road forks with the right ant pink, yellow and pisé rooms open onto branch turning east up the valley towards a flowery garden. The terrace restaurant Agadir. (meals/set menu Dh40/75) serves delicious dishes including local specialities and the oMaison Traditionnelle MUSEUM recommended beef tajine with apricots, al- monds and prunes. (%0666 91 81 45; Oumesnate; admission Dh10; h8am-sunset) At Oumesnate, 6km from Ta- fraoute, follow the signs through the village Chez Amaliya HOTEL €€ (%0528 80 00 65; www.chezamaliya.com; Tazoulte; and then the footpath to this mountainside s/d/tr incl breakfast from Dh330/500/750; museum house. The three-storey granite, palm and argan house, some 400 years old, aWs) A few hundred metres past the turning for Tandilt, Oumesnate and Agadir, was inhabited by 20 family members – three this Dutch-owned hotel is one of the val- generations – until 1982. The blind owner, Abdesslam, or one of his sons, will take you ley’s grandest options. A Berber tent and Jebel L’Kest’s lion face rise above the pool, on a fascinating tour, telling tales of tradi- and paintings and local maps decorate the tional life. lobby. It has a bar, souvenir shop and smart 4 Sleeping & Eating restaurant (mains Dh70) serving Moroccan The villages have numerous basic gîtes and Western dishes; readers recommend (trekkers’ hostels), maisons d’hôte and the chicken pastilla. Rooms are gloomy homestays; Au Coin des Nomades (p376) but comfortable, and there is a six-person can organise a stay. The following are mostly rooftop apartment (Dh1000). in Tandilt, 4km from Tafraoute, and Oumes- nate. These accommodation options are the 88 Getting There & Away only places to eat in the villages. Minibuses (Dh5) and grands taxis (Dh8) head oOumesnate Maison d’Hôte GUESTHOUSE € along the main road between the villages and Tafraoute. (%0666 91 77 68; [email protected]; Oumesnate; s/d incl half-board Dh250/400; a) Tata ‫طاطا‬ Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TSahlteeaeApinntig A&tlEatsi n g Staying in the six-room guesthouse next to Oumesnate’s Maison Traditionnelle, run POP 40,000 by the same family, is a wonderful way to get an insight into Berber village life. If you Situated on the Saharan plain at the foot don’t have a pressing need for internet ac- of Jebel Bani, Tata was an oasis settlement cess and, ideally, you have a car, spending a along the trade route from West Africa. Its night here would be more interesting than name, which roughly means ‘take a break’ in Tafraoute. Rooms have en-suite bathrooms, Tashelhit, recalls those days of Saharan cara- and meals (Dh70) are available with notice. vans, as do the turban-wrapped men sipping Abdesslam’s English-speaking son Rachid tea in the shade. Close to the Algerian bor- organises trekking and 4WD and bike tours. der, the small town has a garrison feel, with four types of police and military stationed Yamina GUESTHOUSE € here, and you may be questioned on your (%0670 52 38 83, 0528 21 66 21; www.yamina- tafraout.com; Tandilt; per person incl breakfast/half- way into town. With good infrastructure and less hassle than other Saharan spots, board Dh150/209; aW) S At the top of the Tata is poised to become more of a destina- village, Yamina is run by a Berber woman and her French husband, who have cre- tion for travellers. The palmeraie is well worth exploring. ated a unique cross between a comfortable You can drive a 7km circuit of it, or catch guesthouse and a maison traditionnelle (traditional house). Reached along terraces, a local bus (Dh5). Above the village at the courtyards and earthen walkways with low far end of the palmeraie is a white hilltop ceilings, the simple rooms are beautifully marabout (saint’s tomb), which you can see from Tata. decorated with cheery paintwork on the Tata is best as a base for off-the-beaten- walls and beams. track excursions, such as desert camping; L’Arganier d’Ammelne HOTEL, CAMPGROUND € Akka oasis, kasbah and agadir; and the (%0528 80 00 69; www.arganierammelne.com; rock engravings at Tiggane, Oum el-Alek Rte d’Agadir, Tandilt; s/d/f incl half-board and Tircht, among the finest in Morocco. Dh250/360/750; aW) This hotel’s pleas- Helpful multilingual Berber guide Isam,

382 campsites, nomad tents (per person Dh200), based at souvenir shop Maison du Patri- basic rooms in a maison traditionnelle and moine (%0613 24 13 12; issam3599@hotmail. an outdoor restaurant. com; Ave Mohammed V), charges about Dh350 per day for one or two people (Dh900 in- Dar Infiane MAISON D’HÔTE €€€ cluding 4WD). (%0661 61 01 70, 0528 80 21 04; www.darinfiane. On Ave Mohammed V is a post office, an com; Indfiane; r incl breakfast Dh884-1860, meals internet cafe, banks with ATMs and money- Dh200; a) Tata’s old kasbah, perched above changing facilities, and the seldom-open the palmeraie, has been turned into a Green Délégation Régionale du Tourisme (%0528 Key guesthouse. Off a carpet-strewn central 80 20 76; crt-guelmim.com/prevince-tata-en.html). courtyard lie 10 rooms, in which the French owners have kept the original eccentricities 4 Sleeping & Eating such as low beams intact. The dar (house) has both fans and detractors, with some There are basic hotels and cafes on Ave Mo- guests raving about magical evenings on hammed V near Maison du Patrimoine. Full- the rooftop terrace in the still of the Sahara or half-board at one of the following would night, while others criticise the service. be the best option. Hôtel La Renaissance HOTEL € 88 Getting There & Away (%0528 80 22 25; [email protected]; Ave des FAR; s/d Dh150/210; W) This central stalwart with palmeraie views has small but BUS comfortable rooms and a pleasant lounge Tata’s bus station is in the centre near Pl de la and breakfast area. The only downsides are Marche Verte, but will be relocated to near Hotel the cramped bathrooms and occasional un- Les Relais des Sables. CTM and Supratours do savoury character in the bar. not serve Tata; Satas (% 0672 31 18 43; Pl de la Marche Verte; h 8.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Hotel Les Relais des Sables HOTEL € Mon-Sat) has the following daily departures: (%0528 80 23 01; Ave des FAR; s/d/tr from Dh210/250/363; aWs) Popular with tour Agadir Dh80, eight hours Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TSarlteaekkpiinngg &i nEtathien gA n ti Atlas groups and overlanders; the pool, bar, res- Goulimime Dh60, five hours taurant and gardens are more impressive Marrakesh Dh140, 10 hours than the service and small en-suite rooms in Taroudannt Dh80, five hours stuffy bungalows. Tiznit Dh70, 6½ hours Zagora Dh120, eight hours Oasis Dar ¨ TAXI Grands taxis leave from Pl de la Marche Verte to Ouanou MAISON D’HÔTE, CAMPGROUND € the following destinations: (Akka Izankad; per tent incl shower from Dh70, s/d/f Agadir Dh140 incl breakfast Dh300/350/600; W) By the N12 Akka-Irhen For Taliouine; Dh25 3km southwest of Tata, this ramshackle but Bouizakarne For Tiznit; Dh100 clean building has cool rooms, a courtyard Goulimime Dh110 with fountains and palms, and oasis and Igherm For Tafraoute; Dh40 mountain views from the roof terrace. Ouarzazate Dh130 Taroudannt Dh80 Municipal Campsite CAMPGROUND € (Ave Mohammed V; per tent incl shower from Dh30) TREKKING IN THE Next to the dry river, with a reasonable ablu- ANTI ATLAS tions block with flush toilets. The last significant mountains before the Sa- Maison d’Hôte ¨ hara, the arid, pink- and ochre-coloured Anti Atlas are little visited by trekkers, and yet Hayat CAMPGROUND, GUESTHOUSE €€ they offer some wonderful trekking opportu- (%0668 37 52 27; [email protected]; Ind- nities. Taliouine is well set up for trekking, fiane; per tent incl shower from Dh80, r per person and Tafraoute is the centre of the region. The Dh200) In the process of opening when we quartzite massif of Jebel L’Kest (2359m), the visited Tata, Hayat occupies a scenic river- ‘amethyst mountain’, lies about 10km north side spot in a village on the outskirts of Tata, of Tafraoute, and the twin peaks of Adrar with lanterns lighting the walkway and views of the old fort. On an ecological farm run by a local environmental, cultural and tourism association, the property will offer

Mqorn (2344m) are 10km southeast. Be- 383Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a GAT reeottkuiknnidnggTTahifnerrtaehoe&uAtAnewtaiyAtlas neath the jagged mass of these peaks lie lush Jebel L’Kest and the approaches from irrigated valleys and a string of oases. Tafraoute are covered by the 1:50,000 map sheets Had Tahala and Tanalt, while the At the eastern end of the Anti Atlas near whole area is covered by 1:100,000 sheets Taliouine, almost due south of Jebel Toub- Annzi, Tafrawt, Foum al-Hisn and Taghjijt. kal, Jebel Siroua (3305m) rises starkly above You should be able to find these maps in Au the landscape. This dramatic volcano makes Coin des Nomades (p376), in specialist book- an excellent centrepiece to varied long- shops (p35), or in good big-city bookshops distance treks. in Morocco. This part of the Atlas is not well devel- For further advice, and to arrange guides, oped for tourism, and transport is an issue mules and gear, contact the operators listed throughout. Camionettes (pick-up trucks) under Tafraoute (p375), Taliouine (p374) and and minibuses provide a reliable though Taroudannt (p369). infrequent service to some villages and grands taxis run on souq days, but at other Around Tafraoute times you may need to hire one to get to trailheads. Morocco has such a wealth of trekking op- tions that perhaps it is not surprising that Jebel L’Kest an area with the potential of Tafraoute has not yet been fully exploited. The adventur- The area’s star attraction is this massive ous trekker will find here, as elsewhere in quartzite ridge that stretches away north- the Moroccan south, many challenging west of Tafraoute. Despite the harshness of and rewarding treks. Because of local de- the landscape, the Berbers who live in lo- population caused by movement to the cal villages manage to grow the mountain cities, and the decline in the use of mules staples of wheat, barley, olives, figs and for agriculture, many paths are partially almonds. The village of Tagdichte is the abandoned and nature is particularly wild launching point for a day ascent of Jebel here. Trekkers might spot Cuvier’s gazelles, L’Kest (2359m). Tagdichte can be accessed wild boars, Barbary sheep and rich endemic by minibus or taxi, and homestay accommo- vegetation. dation can be arranged there. This is a tougher area than the M’Goun Ameln Valley Massif or Tichka Plateau and trekkers will need to cope with a lack of facilities and There are some 26 villages neatly spaced out the harsh climate. This close to the Sahara, through the Ameln Valley, which runs along summer (June until mid-September) is blis- the south side of Jebel L’Kest, and they make teringly hot, and winter sees the occasional for a great walk. You’d need weeks to do a snowfall on the high passes and peaks, so full circuit, but a stunningly beautiful and the region is best walked at the end of win- suitably stretching five-day walk would start ter. Late February is ideal. Daytime tempera- in Oumesnate, take in several villages, and tures may be 20°C, but at night it can drop head up to Tagdichte for an ascent of Jebel below freezing. L’Kest. Alternatively, the ascent could be tackled as part of a gentle trek east through Other than the odd small store, you won’t the valley from, say, Tirnmatmat to Oume- find many supplies in the area, so the great snate, both just off the road. You could also challenge is carrying enough food and water base yourself at Oumesnate Maison d’Hôte to keep you going. As with other remote Mo- (p381) and go on treks from there. roccan areas, it is often possible to stay in vil- lage houses, but you must still be prepared to Adrar Mqorn & Around camp and to carry food and water. Southeast of Tafraoute the possibilities are The best way of doing this is by hir- also exciting. The scramble up Adrar Mqorn ing a guide and mules; there are trekking (2344m) is hard but worthwhile. Due south guides – and faux guides – in Tafraoute. As of its twin peaks are the palm-filled gorges of ever, insist on seeing a guide’s ID card be- Aït Mansour and Timguilcht, which make fore you start discussing possibilities. As a up Afella-Ighir oasis (p380). rule, trained mountain guides do not tout for business in the street. Mules are rarely found around Tafraoute, but you may be able to arrange this through your guide.

384 Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a JGSeoebtuettilhnSegirrTnohuAetarlea &n tAiwcaCyoast night at Tegragra. Walking at a regular pace, you’ll ascend the summit on the morn- Jebel Aklim ing of the fourth day. Jebel Aklim (2531m) sits in an even remoter After descending into the gorges, you’ll area than Jebel L’Kest, yet is surrounded reach the extraordinary cliff village of by Berber villages in valleys guarded by old Tizgui, where you can spend the night, be- kasbahs. From the top there are great views fore continuing to Tagouyamt on the fifth over to the High Atlas and Jebel Siroua. It day. The village has limited supplies and, in makes a great focal point for a four- or five- case you can’t find a room, a good place to day walk out of Igherm, which is roughly camp in the amazing Tislit Gorge. From Ti- equidistant from Tafraoute (to the south- slit, the valley continues to Ihoukarn, from west), Taroudannt, Taliouine and Tata. where you can head south to the Taliouine– Ouarzazate road at Tizi n’Taghatine (organ- Jebel Siroua ise beforehand in Taliouine to be picked up here); or complete the circuit by walking Some way south of the High Atlas, at the west back to Taliouine (two days from Tislit eastern edge of the Anti Atlas, the isolated via Tagmout and the Zagmouzen Valley). volcanic peak of Jebel Siroua (3305m) of- fers unique trekking opportunities. Remote An alternative circuit that is even less villages, tremendous gorges, a tricky final trekked starts at the village of Tamlakout, ascent and some dramatic scenery all make where there is a classified gîte, and takes this an excellent place for trekkers in search in Aït Tigga, the Assif Mdist and the foot of solitude, stark beauty and a serious walk. of Jebel Siroua. It then ascends the moun- tain, continues to Aziouane and exits via the The Jebel Siroua ascent is the most obvi- Amassines. Some of the trek is strenuous ous walk, but, as ever in Morocco, lasting but no one day should involve more than six memories will be found elsewhere: in the hours’ walking. beauty of lush valleys, in the hospitality shown in Berber homes, in the play of light Taliouine and Anezale (for Tamlakout) on rock and in the proximity of the Sahara. are both on the main Taroudannt to Ouar- So if you don’t fancy the climb to the sum- zazate road, regularly served by grands taxis mit, the mountain circuit still makes a won- and buses. derful trek, with diverse scenery, traditional activities in the villages and beautiful, well- SOUTHERN ATLANTIC maintained agricultural terraces. COAST Mules can also be hired at short notice Tiznit ‫تزنيت‬ (often the next day) at villages around the mountain. POP 53,600 The 1:100,000 Taliwine and 1:50,000 South of the Souss Valley and at the west- Sirwa maps cover the route. In winter it can ern end of the Anti Atlas, Tiznit is an old be fiercely cold here, so the best times to trek walled medina town surrounded by modern are autumn, when the saffron harvest takes development. It was originally the site of a place, and spring. You should be able to find cluster of forts that were encircled in the these maps in Au Coin des Nomades (p376), 19th century by some 5km of pisé wall. It in specialist bookshops (p35), or in good big- quickly became a trade centre and remains city bookshops in Morocco. a provincial capital and centre for Berber jewellery, with a souq devoted to the silver If you need supplies, there are small stuff. This slow-paced and authentic spot, stores in Taliouine and Tazenart, and weekly with its dusty medina lanes and conserva- markets take place in Taliouine, Aoulouz, tive but friendly inhabitants, is a convenient Askaoun, Tazenakht and Igli. stopoff en route between the Anti Atlas and Atlantic Coast. Routes History There’s a challenging, weeklong trek that allows you to walk out of Taliouine along In 1881 Sultan Moulay al-Hassan (1873–94) a gentle dirt trail, which heads eastward founded Tiznit as a base from which to up the Zagmouzen Valley to Tagmout. The route then heads northeast through Atougha, from where the summit of Jebel Siroua is best reached in two days, with a

385 BEYOND THE GLITTER Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a ST iozgunhtithtse&r nAcAttilvaitniteisc C oast Berber jewellery serves a much wider purpose than simple adornment. A woman’s jewellery identifies her as a member of a clan or tribe, is a sign of her wealth, reflects cultural traditions, and has power beyond the visual – to protect her from the evil eye. A woman will receive jewellery from her mother until she marries. For her marriage, her future husband will commission his mother or sister to provide jewellery. These pieces will be kept by her as a dowry and added to throughout her life; they will always be made of silver, as gold is considered evil. Necklaces are important; the traditional assemblage in the southern oasis valleys sometimes features talismans of silver, pink coral, amazonite, amber, Czech glass and West African ebony beads. Women will also own bracelets, fibulas (elaborate brooches, often triangular, used for fastening garments), anklets, earrings and headdresses. Some jewellery will be worn every day, while the finest pieces will be saved for occasions such as festivals, pilgrimages and funerals. Jewellery’s protective, medicinal and magical properties are extremely important. The necklaces contain charms bought from magicians or holy men, offering protection against the evil eye, disease, accidents and difficulties in childbirth. Silver is believed to cure rheumatism; coral symbolises fertility and is thought to have curative powers; amber is worn as a symbol of wealth and to protect against sorcery (it’s also considered an aphrodisiac and a cure for colds); amazonite and carnelian stones are used in divin- ing fortunes; and shells traded from East Africa symbolise fertility. Talismans feature stylised motifs of animals, the sun, moon and stars, which are all believed to have supernatural powers. A common symbol to ward off the evil eye is the hand of Fatima, daughter of the Prophet Mohammed. Any depiction of the hand (which represents human creative power and dominance) or of the number five is believed to have the same effect as metaphorically poking your fingers into the evil eye with the words khamsa fi ainek (five in your eye). assert his authority over the rebellious of resistance against the French until his Berber tribes of the south. To do this, he death in 1919. built the town’s perimeter walls. Jewish silversmiths were moved into the town and 1 Sights & Activities they gave it a reputation for silver work- manship. Tiznit medina is a sleepy place where it is fun to wander around spots such as the jewellery However, Tiznit remained embroiled in souq and Rue Imzilne, a street of leather- local sedition, and was a centre of dissent sandal shops. The Berber traders here are against the 1912 treaty that turned Morocco tough salesmen, but it is still worth trying into a French and Spanish protectorate. This to strike a bargain. Things liven up consider- resistance movement was led by El-Hiba, ably on Thursday, which is market day. the so-called ‘Blue Sultan’ from the Western Sahara, who earned his nickname for always City Walls HISTORIC SITE wearing his Saharawi veil. It’s possible to climb onto sections of the Following Sultan Moulay Hafid’s capitu- 5km-long city walls, which have some 30 lation to the French at the Treaty of Fès, towers and nine gates. On the northern El-Hiba proclaimed himself sultan here in side of the medina, Bab Targua overlooks 1912. The southern tribes rose to support a palmeraie with a natural spring, used as a him and El-Hiba marched north at the laundry by local women. head of an army of men from the Tuareg and Anti Atlas tribes. They were welcomed Grande Mosquée MOSQUE as liberators in Marrakesh, but much of the army was slaughtered by the French as it The minaret of the Grande Mosquée (closed moved towards Fez. El-Hiba retreated to to non-Muslims) is studded with jutting Taroudannt, then Tiznit, then up into the wooden sticks. Local legend suggests this Anti Atlas, where he pursued a campaign is where the souls of the dead congregate. More likely, these were left in place by the masons who built the minaret to help them

386 Tiznit e# 0 400 m A 0 0.2 miles BC D Bab el-Khemis 18 #þ Barb 15 #ü Targua 111 Ave Bab el-Khemis Bab 11 Aglou 1 111 1 11 111 11 111 Passage Idaoumknoun 11 11 1 B1ab 1 111 el-Maader 3 ñ# ÿ# 11 ò# 66HaRjuAeliEl 111 11 619 14 111 Place #ì #ú 2 GranRdueeMdeoslaquée 2 2 Grands al-Koufa 9 Imzilne #æ Taxis to 8 ˜# ß# ÿ# 66Aglou Plage 1 Ru ÿ#Rue Ave Sidi Abderhman -# e M zal Ave Si Belid Hassan 66666663 ÿ#6 Kessariat A ït 66666664 #þ 17II # Place Bab BlvdNMOTVoaUGhxIVLraiamrLEnaLELmndaLkaseEod˜#uBVianbaò#1A3ú#v2e#þ2ì#d2u13ï#62#ú0.#A#ì1Co1ûT2tM0 el-Jedid al-Méchouar ì# Bab Rue de I'Hopit al Ave Lalla Abla 3 21 Jadid DNew ›# 4 Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TSilozeunetiphtienrgn Atla n tic C oast Ave Ave Hassan 4 Mohammed V S# (500m) Bab Aït Jarrar 10 Ave Bir II ú# ú# Anzarane 12 Grands 5 ÿ# -#ÿ# # Taxis to ˜# 7 Goulimime CTM ABCD climb up and replaster. A similar arrange- Bab el Maader GUESTHOUSE € ment is used on minarets across the Sahara (%0673 90 73 14; www.bab-el-maader.com; 132 Rue in Mali and Niger. El Haj Ali; r Dh330; hSep-Jun) This traditional house in the medina is Tiznit’s best address, Source Bleue HISTORIC SITE a five-room guesthouse with a courtyard, The original town spring is now a shallow, plenty of great decorative touches and good stagnant pool, green rather than blue. Leg- end has it that a woman of ill repute, Lalla use of Moroccan fabrics and materials. The French-Moroccan team can give pointers Zninia, stopped to rest here at what was and arrange trips in the region. then plain desert. She spent the next three days repenting her wicked ways, and God Riad Le Lieu GUESTHOUSE € (%0528 60 00 19; www.riadlelieu-tiznit.com; 273 was so impressed that he showed forgive- Impasse Issaoui; r/ste/apt Dh220/290/320; W) ness by having a spring gush beneath her feet. Her name was thus given to the village Five double rooms and suites and a four- that preceded Sultan Moulay al-Hassan’s person apartment share this former court- 19th-century fortress town. house with the restaurant of the same name. One suite has a private shower, but other- 4 Sleeping wise the rooms and suites share bathrooms. Rooms are poky, but the warm welcome and Hotels are gathered around the large round- copious breakfast (Dh30) make this a relax- about to the southeast of Bab Oulad Jarrar, ing haven in the medina. with a few options in the medina.

387 Tiznit Riad Le Lieu...................................... (see 9) 14 Snack Stands...........................................B2 æ Sights û Drinking & Nightlife 1 Grande Mosquée .................................... C2 15 Cafe Panoramique .................................. B1 2 Source Bleue ........................................... C2 þ Shopping 16 Ensemble Artisanal .................................A4 ÿ Sleeping 17 Jewellery Souq.........................................B3 3 Bab el Maader ......................................... D2 18 Trésor du Sud .......................................... B1 4 Camping Municipal................................. C4 ï Information 5 Hôtel de Paris .......................................... C4 19 Bank ..........................................................B2 6 Hôtel des Touristes ................................ B3 20 Banque Populaire....................................B3 7 Hotel Tiznit .............................................. C4 21 BMCE ........................................................A4 8 Riad Janoub............................................. D2 22 BMCI..........................................................A3 9 Riad Le Lieu ............................................. B2 23 Tiznit Voyages .........................................B3 ú Eating 10 Complex Tiznit Essaada ........................ C4 11 Food Market ............................................ B3 12 Idou Tiznit Supermarket........................ C4 13 La Ville Nouvelle...................................... A3 Hôtel des Touristes HOTEL € a massage room, hammam and roof terrace, (%0528 86 20 18; http://hoteltouristetiznit.voila all overlooking the pool and garden. The six .net; Pl al-Méchouar; s/d/tr/q from Dh50/90/120/ comfortable rooms, including a wheelchair- 140; W) Abdul and Mohammed’s spotless, accessible option, have soft colour schemes, welcoming 1st-floor hotel is a dependable, rugs and traditional trimmings. central budget option. Rooms are entered from a quiet, cheerful communal area with 5 Eating & Drinking a book exchange; those overlooking Pl al- Méchouar have small balconies, but all lack Food Market MARKET Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TESaiotzuintnihtge&r nD rAti nlkainntgic C oast fans. The room next to the flush toilet is par- (Ave du 20 Août; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat) A good option for picnic supplies. ticularly hot and noisy. Idou Tiznit Supermarket SUPERMARKET Hotel Tiznit HOTEL € (%0528 86 24 11; tiznit–[email protected]; Ave (Bab Oulad Jarrar; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat) Behind the hotel of the same name, Bir Anzarane; s/d Dh247/310; Ws) Set in leafy selling a range of local and imported food. grounds with a large pool, Tiznit is unexcit- ing and a little run-down but comfortable La Ville Nouvelle CAFE, MOROCCAN € (17 Ave du 20 Août; mains Dh35-55; hbreakfast and welcoming. The pink rooms are reason- & lunch) At this popular multistorey cafe, ably spacious with TV and small bathroom. brisk waiters serve classic salads, brochettes, Hôtel de Paris HOTEL € tajines and kefta (spiced meatballs). (%0528 86 28 65; www.hoteldeparis.ma; Ave Has- san II; s/d/tr Dh140/180/250; aW) This hotel would be fine if you hit town feeling as tired Complex Tiznit Essaada FAST FOOD, SEAFOOD € as the decor of the en-suite rooms and just (Ave Lalla Abla; mains Dh35-55; hbreakfast, lunch wanted to crash between buses. There’s a & dinner) On this strip, snack bars serve cafe-restaurant downstairs. dishes such as brochettes and rotissserie chicken. Look out for Tiznit Essaada, which Camping Municipal CAMPGROUND € also offers shwarma, paninis, pizza and fish (%0528 60 13 54; Bab Oulad Jarrar; camping per dishes on its covered terrace. person Dh36) The municipal campground is Snack Stands FAST FOOD € Along Ave Sidi Abderhman, the main road next to the old walls. through the medina. Riad Janoub MAISON D’HÔTE €€ oRiad Le Lieu (%0679 00 55 10; www.riadjanoub.com; 193 Rue MOROCCAN €€ de la Grande Mosquée; r incl breakfast from Dh748; (%0528 60 00 19; www.riadlelieu-tiznit.com; 273 aWs) French couple Gilbert and Clau- Impasse Issaoui; mains Dh32-95; hbreakfast, lunch dine are attentive hosts in this modern riad, & dinner; W) Charming Aïcha attracts locals which has Moroccan and European salons, and tourists alike with daily specials, typically

388 Ave Lalla Abla, just northeast of the roundabout including tomato and goats’ cheese salad, near Bab Oulad Jarrar. CTM serves the following pastilla and camel, beef or sardine tajine. destinations: The intimate setting is a courtyard with fo- liage and lanterns overhead. There are just DESTINATION COST (DH) DURATION (HR) four tables, so book ahead in high season. Agadir 40 2 Dakhla 350 20 Cafe Panoramique CAFE Goulimime 40 2½ Laâyoune 190 9 (Ave Sidi Abderhman; h8.30am-6pm) Pano- Tafraoute 40 2½ ramique has views of the city walls and sur- Tan Tan 80 4½ rounding countryside from its roof terrace. 7 Shopping oJewellery Souq JEWELLERY With its long history of silversmiths, the TAXI jewellery souq has some of the best work in Unless mentioned otherwise, taxis leave from southern Morocco. It’s a pleasant place to the main grand-taxi rank, opposite the main post wander, with blue-doored shops and win- office in the western part of town: dows full of silverware. Some of the jewel- Agadir D32 lery is made in Tiznit, and some bought Aglou Plage Dh5; from a stand on Ave Hassan II. from Saharan tribes to the south. You will Goulimime Dh37; from a stand just south of need time to look around and bargain to get the roundabout near Bab Oulad Jarrar, across the best prices. Rte de Goulimime from the Total garage. Inezgane Dh27 Trésor du Sud JEWELLERY Mirleft Dh15 Sidi Ifni Dh27 (www.tresordusud.com; Bab el-Khemis, Ave Sidi Tafraoute Dh40 Abderhman; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat & by appoint- ment) Jewellery shops are found along Ave 88 Getting Around Sidi Abderhman, the main road through the Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a SAhoG LouOptpUhiePnrLgnAGAEtla n tic C oast medina. At the top, Trésor du Sud is not the Red petits taxis charge Dh7 for a journey (Dh10 cheapest, but the work is good and it deals after 7.30pm). in hallmarked solid silver. Ensemble Artisanal JEWELLERY (Ave du 20 Août; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon- Aglou Plage ‫اكلو بلاج‬ Sat) Artisans ply their wares in a hassle-free environment. Aglou Plage, 14km northwest of Tiznit, is a long beach with good surf, although the strong undertow makes it dangerous for 88 Information swimming most of the time. When the At- lantic winds start blustering, it’s a wild and There are internet cafes around Pl al-Méchouar. woolly sort of place. Development is taking Most banks with ATMs and exchange facilities its toll, but the settlement has some charm, are in the ville nouvelle, but there are banks in with a raised walkway for promenading be- the medina. tween the seafront cafes. Main Post Office (Ave du 20 Août; h8.30am- If you’re driving from Tiznit to Mirleft, 4.30pm Mon-Fri) In the ville nouvelle. the route via Aglou Plage takes you along a Post Office (Ave Sidi Abderhman; h8.30am- beautiful stretch of coastline. 4.30pm Mon-Fri) In the medina. At the south end of Aglou beach, sign- Tiznit Voyages (%0528 86 21 17; www. posted from the highway, French-Moroccan tiznitvoyages.com; Ave Hassan II; h9am- Le Chant du Chameau (%0667 90 49 91; 12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) This RAM agent www.chantduchameau.com; per person incl break- also organises excursions and has local maps. 88 Getting There & Away fast/half-board Dh275/385) has five rooms in a rust-red house, with a tented restaurant and BUS a terraced garden where prickly pears grow Buses leave from the new bus station just off among the rocks. Excursions in the area and the Tafraoute road, past the Thursday souq a weeklong course in tadelakt, the local site. CTM has another office closer to the centre plaster-work, are offered. on the same road, and one on Pl al-Méchouar. Grands taxis serve Aglou Plage from Cheap bus-company offices are clustered on Tiznit (Dh5), but not Mirleft.

389 Mirleft Ride SURFING Mirleft ‫ميرلفت‬ (%0661 44 19 33; www.mirleftride.com) Runs surf schools and organises fishing trips and POP 6500 treks into the hills. One of the region’s most beautiful roads runs south of Aglou Plage, offering wonder- ful views of the ocean, rugged hills and the Paraglide Morocco PARAGLIDING occasional empty cove. Then comes Mirleft, (%0676 31 86 55; www.paraglidemorocco.com) The British-owned outfit is geared towards with a burgeoning surf scene and beckoning seasoned paragliders, but tandem flights cafes under the arches on its main street. Historically popular with artists, musicians (Dh550) are available. and overlanders recovering from Saharan Le Nid d’Aigle PARAGLIDING crossings, this cosmopolitan little spot is de- veloping as fans of water and wind sports (%0671 66 85 05; www.nidaigle.com) Offers paragliding. discover the area. Mirleft also has a healthy share of the best coastal accommodation 4 Sleeping south of Essaouira. The climate is gentle, the air clear, the views magnificent – and the There are plenty of short-let apartments fledgling tourism development has largely available in Mirleft, costing from about been the work of individuals, rather than Dh200 per night; ask at the entrance to the corporations or chains. village. 1 Sights & Activities Hôtel Abertih HOTEL € (%0528 71 93 04; www.abertih.com; s/d incl break- fast with bathroom Dh200/300, without bathroom Stroll down the arcaded main street, which Dh150/200; W) Looking like it popped out resembles the set of a cowboy film. Under of a Cubist painting, blue-and-yellow Aber- the pink-and-blue arches you will find arts tih is equally colourful inside, where open and crafts, argan products, souvenirs, car- courtyards lead to 11 rooms above the li- pets, surfboards, beach-tennis sets and two censed ground-floor restaurant. The French- small vegetable markets. owned hotel offers half-board and hire-car Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a MS ioigruhlttehsfet&r nAcAttilvaitniteisc C oast packages, making it popular with paraglid- If at first the scruffy village seems un- ing groups. inspiring, the gentle bustle soon becomes contagious. A social morning coffee is fol- Hotel Atlas HOTEL € lowed by a trip to the beach – choose from (%0528 71 93 09; [email protected]; s/d/tw the village’s largest beach, Imin Tourga (also incl breakfast without shower Dh120/240/240, s/d known as la grande plage), Fish Beach, incl breakfast with shower Dh200/300, meals from Camping Beach, Coquillage Beach, Af- Dh16; W) French-owned Atlas’ palatial roof tas Beach, Plage Sauvage and Marabout’s terrace is Mirleft’s top party spot, a popu- Beach. The last is the most dramatic, with lar fixture on the southern surf circuit. The its marabout tomb and savage-looking blue-shuttered rooms, entered from a cor- rocks. ridor open to the elements, are pleasantly rustic and the hotel has a 1st-floor balcony There are plenty of activities to keep you and ground-floor restaurant. busy, with six surf schools, mostly located on the road to Imin Tourga. The beach is Hotel du Sud HOTEL € good for surf casting (fishing), and hotels (%0528 71 94 07; www.hotel-mirleft.fr; s/d/q and guides can organise trips from trekking Dh130/170/250; W) Up a pink staircase from to desert excursions. Many of the following Franco-Amazigh restaurant La Bonne Fran- operators offer packages including accom- quette, the basic rooms are simply but taste- modation, food, transfers and hire-car. oSurf en Marruecos SURFING fully decorated, with colourful bedspreads (%0615 99 04 70; www.surfenmarruecos.com) The and vintage postcards. Rudimentary shared Spanish-owned surf school has spearheaded Mirleft’s development as a surf destination, bathrooms have showers in stalls. The tur- quoise patio and roof terrace are cool ref- organising an international longboard com- uges on hot days. petition here every August. Sally’s Bed & Breakfast GUESTHOUSE €€ Spot-M SURFING (%0528 71 94 02; www.sallymirleft.com; Les Ami- (%0610 41 90 46; www.spot-m.com) A British- cales; r incl breakfast Dh550-1250; W) Created owned surf specialist. by a horse-loving Englishwoman, Sally, this

390 88 Getting There & Away gorgeous cliff-top villa above Imin Tourga, one of Mirleft’s largest and cleanest beaches, Grands taxis run to Sidi Ifni (Dh13) and Tiznit has breathtaking views up the coast. With (Dh15). The daily Trans Kam (p393) bus between six en-suite rooms and antiques decorating Ifni and Marrakesh stops here. the lounge, it’s a stylish and comfortable hideaway. oLes 3 Chameaux MAISON D’HÔTE €€€ Sidi Ifni ‫سيدي إفني‬ (%0528 71 91 87; www.3chameaux.com; s/d/ste POP 40,000 incl half-board Dh1186/1472/1672; aWs) High Returned to Morocco by the Spanish as late as 1969, Sidi Ifni adds a dash of Gabriel on the hill, in a renovated 1930s military García Márquez to the usual Moroccan fort, is Mirleft’s best address, a lovely guest- house with fabulous views over the village tajine. The slowly decaying art-deco build- ings on the hilly streets are a haunting re- to the sea beyond. It’s worth paying extra minder of colonial ambitions. At the heart of for one of the suites, which have balco- nies and bathroom windows surveying the what was the Spanish Sahara, Ifni was once a base for slave-trading operations and later sea or the valley behind the property. The a large exporter of fish to the Spanish main- rooms are less impressive, without TV or air-conditioning. Facilities include a pool land. When the sun sets on the esplanade and dilapidated calles (streets), and the At- (heated during the winter), hammam, li- lantic mist gives everything a soft focus, Ifni censed restaurant and boutique. The only sound is the roar of the surf far below, and seems an eerie outpost. The locals have painted the town blue you’ll feel yourself unwinding as soon as and white, and continue the colour scheme you arrive. in their turbans and robes. They support Spanish football teams, they take siestas Dar Najmat BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ (%0528 71 90 56; www.darnajmat.com; s/d incl and they’re more likely to greet travellers half-board Dh1078/1485, apt Dh1705; aWs) with hola than bonjour. You might hear With its infinity pool seemingly melting Bob Dylan blaring from a cafe or get into Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a SEaiotduiitnI hfgneir n Atla n tic C oast into Marabout’s Beach, Dar Najmat’s view a philosophical conversation; it’s an intel- is up there with the best on the Moroccan lectual spot, where the expats and local coast. You’ll want to start taking photos as cafe crowd are laid-back even by Moroccan soon as you pull off the road, 2km south standards. of Mirleft. The decor in the seven rooms and the two-bedroom apartment has been History perfectly judged, with Moroccan materials achieving a contemporary look and harmo- Spain acquired the enclave of Sidi Ifni after nious feel. defeating the Moroccan forces in the war of 1859. They christened their new possession 5 Eating Santa Cruz del Mar Pequeña, but seem to have been uncertain what to do with it as Apart from excellent restaurants at the they did not take full possession until 1934. above hotels, cafes on the main street serve Most of Ifni dates from the 1930s and fea- up some of the tonnes of fresh fish that get tures an eclectic mix of art deco and tradi- caught here. tional Moroccan styles. Restaurant Tigmi MOROCCAN € On Moroccan independence in the late (%0670 70 60 43; meals Dh60; hlunch & dinner) 1950s, Spain refused to withdraw, citing the Readers recommend this friendly, family- fact that some 60% of the town’s population run restaurant with a small terrace near was Spanish. The protracted dispute over Hôtel Abertih. Dishes include dromedary rib territorial rights included the Ifni War, in steak and octopus tajine. which the town was besieged. The dispute eventually ended in 1969, when the UN bro- Restaurant Ayour BERBER € kered an agreement for Spain to cede the (%0528 71 91 71; meals Dh65; hlunch & dinner) enclave back to Morocco. Santa Cruz was Next to Hotel du Sud, cosy Ayour is one of renamed Sidi Ifni, after a holy man buried Mirleft’s best stand-alone restaurants. It’s in the town in the early 1900s. Ifni still cel- slightly overpriced, but tajines, spaghetti ebrates ‘Independence Day’ (30 June) with a and fish dishes are all on the menu. festival on the abandoned airfield.

391 Sidi Ifni e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles ABC D 8 Ave Al Hourria 4444444 S#13 1 â# ATLANTIC Plaza de la 12 OCEAN ç#ÿ#16 Marina 44444441 Ù#1 ç#11 4 44 4 44 420 ú# ú# 18 TeCnailelentdeeCarlier Ave MouZlaaryaYnoussef 44444442 444444664444446644444444466319#ú MouaBhlivddineAlAve Bir 2 â#4 3â# Jardin 3 14 Houria 4 ÿ# RuZeaenð#lkJa#úat dM2iad2rarakesh ˜# Place Hassan II ÿ#17 AAvveeHela-sAsdaanAriIvsesaMohammed V 28 Grands (Formerly Plaza 25 Taxis de España) Ave Al Hourria Calle de Gì#omara Place des Trans ›# â#7 9 Martyrs â# 6 #ú â# 10â# â# 21 Ave Hassan II2 Kam ì# Calle de Oviedo î# D Zaanl-kBaotuMdaolui lay -# (2PAkmover)tHas2sC4a2ñ#nT3ú#Mú#II 2›#6 ì#Zò#âa#nAk5vae2t M7Siodÿ#ui Mla1yo5hIsammamiled ben Abdallah Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a GS ioedtuittiI hfnnegir TnhAetrlea &n tAiwcaCyoast Hospital D4 Former Airfield Port (1km); Souq (1km) ABCD Sidi Ifni 16 Hôtel Suerte Loca.................................... C1 17 Xanadu......................................................C2 æ Sights ú Eating 1 Beach.........................................................B1 18 Café-Restaurant Azta.............................C2 2 Cine Avenida............................................ B3 19 Café-Restaurant Mar Pequeña..............B2 3 Former Spanish Consulate.................... B2 20 Chez Sofia ................................................ C1 4 Law Courts (Former Church)................ B2 21 Eddib .........................................................B3 5 Letterbox ................................................. C4 22 Fruit & Vegetable Market .......................D3 6 Lighthouse............................................... A3 23 Gran Canaria............................................C4 7 Royal Palace ............................................ A3 24 Municipal Market.....................................C4 8 Ship House................................................C1 û Drinking & Nightlife 9 Town Hall ................................................. B3 Hôtel Bellevue.................................(see 14) 10 Twist Club ................................................ B3 ï Information Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 25 Attijariwafa Bank .....................................C3 11 Ifni Surf......................................................C1 26 Banque Populaire....................................C4 12 Sahara Surf Shop.....................................C1 27 BMCE ........................................................C3 28 Hassan Cyber...........................................D3 ÿ Sleeping 13 Camping Sidi Ifni......................................C1 14 Hôtel Bellevue ......................................... A2 15 Hôtel Ère Nouvelle .................................. C4

392 (%0662 53 37 17; www.ifnisurf.com; Ave Moulay Ifni is mostly a contented place, but clash- Youssef; board & wetsuit rental per day Dh150, 2hr lesson incl equipment Dh200, kayak & wetsuit rental es occasionally erupt between the police and per hour Dh60) offers board and kayak hire townsfolk, sparked by high unemployment and instruction at Legzira Plage, with ac- and the marginalisation of the independ- commodation available in Ifni and Legzira. ently spirited town. 4 Sleeping 1 Sights & Activities Like the rest of Ifni, many of the hotels have oSpanish Sidi Ifni HISTORIC BUILDINGS seen better days. The real draw of Sidi Ifni is its unique at- mosphere, which has lured many a passing foreigner to settle. The small old Spanish part of town is one of the main attractions. Hôtel Bellevue HOTEL € (%0528 87 52 72; Pl Hassan II; s/d with bath- At its heart is Pl Hassan II (often still called room Dh170/200, s/d/tr without bathroom Plaza de España), the colonial centrepiece. The large square with a small park in the Dh105/130/150) Historically Ifni’s best ad- dress, the art-deco charms of the Bellevue’s middle is surrounded by the main admin- exterior do not continue inside, where you istrative buildings: law courts (former church), royal palace, former Spanish will find little more than a few stylised lamp- shades and stained-glass windows. None- consulate and town hall, mostly in grand theless, it is a reasonable budget option art-deco style. Other interesting remnants of the colo- on the main square, with sweeping coastal views from the bar-restaurant and room bal- nial era include the Hôtel Bellevue, also on conies. Shoot for an en-suite room upstairs; Pl Hassan II, a nearby lighthouse and the cliff-top ship house, which served as the those downstairs are darker and the shared shower is a frugal rooftop affair. Spanish Naval Secretariat. There’s also some art-deco architecture in the streets east of Pl Hassan II, including the derelict nightclub Hôtel Suerte Loca HOTEL € (%0528 87 53 50; [email protected]; Ave Twist Club (off Ave Hassan II) and cinema Moulay Youssef; s/d without shower Dh80/125, with Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a S iodguihtIthfsne&ir nAcAttilvaitniteisc C oast Cine Avenida (Ave Hassan II). The post of- fice still has a letterbox (Ave Mohammed V) shower Dh150/200) This blue-and-white au- berge, in a prime position next to the boat- outside marked ‘Correos – Avion/Ordinario’ shaped house, is Ifni’s surf and backpacker (Post – Air Mail/Ordinary). central. There’s a roof terrace with beach views, plus table football and a pool table Beach BEACH in the restaurant, although the latter’s high The beach is big and rarely busy, though not prices are less popular. It could certainly use always clean. At the south end is the port: Ifni’s economy is based on small-scale fish- a renovation, but attractive bedspreads and balconies feature in the simple rooms. ing, with most of the catch sold in Agadir. The odd construction just offshore is the remains of an old land-sea conveyor, which Hôtel Ère Nouvelle HOTEL € (%0528 87 52 98; Ave Sidi Mohammed ben Abdal- was used to take cargo from ships to the old lah; s/d Dh35/70) Above a local restaurant, Spanish port. this central cheapie has spartan rooms with narrow beds. The shared bathrooms sport Surfing WATER SPORTS that classic shower/squat toilet combina- There’s some excellent surfing around Ifni. tion. However, it’s welcoming and secure, The knowledgeable Ahmed at Dik Surf School (%0671 62 12 26; www.diksurfschool. and the breakfast of bread, honey and snow- white butter is delicious. wordpress.com; board & wetsuit rental per day Dh120, 2hr lesson incl equipment Dh125), a good source of information about local waves, Camping Sidi Ifni CAMPGROUND € (%0528 87 67 34; off Ave Al Hourria; tent/caravan/ teaches and has boards for hire. Sahara room Dh35/75/85) Next to the outdoor swim- Surf Shop (%0528 87 53 50; suerteloca36@ yahoo.com; Plaza de la Marina; board & wetsuit rent- ming pool at the north end of the beach. al per day Dh150, 2hr lesson incl equipment Dh180), oXanadu MAISON D’HÔTE €€ (%0528 87 67 18; www.maisonxanadu.com; 5 Rue another good place to pick up local knowl- el Jadida; s/d incl breakfast Dh360/550; iW) edge, offers board and bike hire, instruction and packages including bed and breakfast Tucked away on a lane off Ave Mohammed V, this restored house offers a contemporary at the affiliated Hôtel Suerte Loca. Ifni Surf

take on the Ifni aesthetic, with soothing 393 colours pervading the five rooms. Breakfast renamed in 2013 by new owners Aziz and on the roof is a pleasure and the book-filled Tarik, this garden restaurant’s specialities lounge is ideal for whiling away an evening. include fresh grilled fish, lamb or chicken The charming French host, Patrick, speaks crêpes, and lamb tajine with prunes and some English, and offers guided hikes and apricots. Western dishes are also offered, as 4WD excursions. is a buffet and musical soirée on Saturday and Moroccan cookery courses (minimum 5 Eating six people). There’s a covered fruit and vegetable mar- 6 Drinking & Nightlife ket off Zankat Marrakesh. A souq is held on Sundays, 1km out of town on the road to the Cafes line Ave Hassan II, with views of Pl port. Hassan II and the airfield. oCafé-Restaurant Hôtel Bellevue BAR (Pl Hassan II) On a terrace above the beach, the bar at Hôtel Bellevue is a pleasant spot Mar Pequeña SEAFOOD, MOROCCAN € for a beer. (%0655 58 04 32; 20 Blvd Al Mouahidine; set menu Dh50-100; hlunch & dinner; v) Less male- dominated than the neighbouring cafes, this 88 Information good-value family-run restaurant is at the top of the seafront steps. The Tanani clan Good websites include www.ifniville.com and is full of smiles, the surrounds intimate and www.visit-sidiifni.blogspot.com. Head to Ave Mo- perfect for people-watching, and the broad hammed V for pharmacies and for banks offering menu includes tajines, couscous, pastilla, currency exchange and ATMs. grills, a good vegetable selection and numer- Hassan Cyber (Ave Hassan I; per hr Dh4; ous seafood dishes. The hearty fish tajine h10am-2pm & 5pm-midnight Sat-Thu, 5pm- midnight Fri) Internet access. is recommended. When we visited, the 88 Getting There & Away Tananis were setting up a nearby fish and grill cafe, Chez Sofia (Calle de Teniente Carlier; BUS Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a EASaortouiutnhngedrSnidAitIlfanni tic C oast hlunch & dinner). CTM (%0661 80 18 98; majid.ifni@hotmail. com; Ave Hassan II) Daily departures to des- Municipal Market SEAFOOD, SELF-CATERING € tinations including Casablanca (Dh260, 12 (cnr Ave Mohammed V & Ave Hassan II) In addi- hours), Marrakesh (Dh160, 7½ hours), Agadir tion to the fish market, fruit and vegetable (Dh70, four hours) and Laâyoune (Dh165, eight market and surrounding cafes, look out for hours). the courtyard of smoking grills. In this at- Trans Kam (%0601 07 33 10; Ave Mohammed mospheric outdoor spot, where cooks fan V) Daily bus to/from Marrakesh at 5am/1pm the coals and call out to punters, you can get (eight hours, Dh110). grilled seafood – including sardines (Dh15), fish (Dh40) and prawns – served with salad and bread. GRAND TAXI The grand-taxi station is on the east side of Eddib PIZZERIA € town. Taxis serve Goulimime (Dh25), Legzira (Ave Hassan II; pizza Dh30-50; hlunch & dinner) Plage (Dh13), Mirleft (Dh13), Tiznit (Dh27) and Eddib’s small range of pizzas have toppings Agadir (Dh60). such as tuna, minced meat, olives and egg. The covered outdoor seats have views of art- deco buildings and takeaway is available. Around Sidi Ifni Gran Canaria INTERNATIONAL, SEAFOOD € Hotels will advise on the many walks to be (Ave Mohammed V; mains Dh40–70; hlunch & din- done in the countryside around Sidi Ifni. ner) With pavement seats and views down the main street from its roof terrace, Gran Legzira Plage Canaria’s dishes range from fish tajine and fish pastilla to pizza and paella. El Gzira, usually called Legzira Plage, is a superb secluded bay 10km north of Ifni Café-Restaurant Azta SEAFOOD, MOROCCAN €€ with excellent sand and two dramatic (%0528 78 07 67; Ave Al Hourria; set menu Dh100; natural stone arches reaching over the hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; W) Relaunched and sea. It’s accessible from Rte 104 but bet- ter reached by walking along the beaches

394 ducing oil and cosmetic products (Dh35 to and cliffs. Tourism development is slowly Dh250) from the versatile argan tree, with a spreading down the access road from Rte shop for tastings. 104, but the beach itself remains pristine and undeveloped. Goulimime ‫كثلميم‬ At the foot of the access road, a cluster of hotels and auberges overlook the beach. POP 96,000 Beach Club (%0670 52 28 00; www.legzira beachclub.com; s/d from Dh175/275) has the Once the ‘Gateway of the Sahara’, dusty best rooms, some with shared sea-facing Goulimime (or Guelmim) sprang up as a balconies. border town where farmers from the fertile Sable d’Or (%0661 30 24 95; eddibmo- Souss traded with nomads from the south. [email protected]; r Dh150-300) has small but If you have come from the north, you will comfortable rooms, opening onto terraces still recognise Goulimime as a border town: with sea views. Its public areas were being for the first time, you will see Saharawis in renovated when we visited. the majority. The hotels offer half-board (about Dh250 The main reason to stop here is the Satur- per person) and you can get a simple lunch day-morning souq, which includes a camel of grilled fish at the neighbouring beach ca- market and takes place a few kilometres fes (about Dh60). from town on the Tan Tan road. A weeklong Grands taxis stop on Rte 104 en route be- moussem (festival) and camel fair is held tween Sidi Ifni (Dh10) and Mirleft (Dh15). here around the end of July. Sidi Ouarsik 4 Sleeping The fishing village of Sidi Ouarsik, 18km Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a SGloeuetlphiimenirgmne Atla n tic C oast You will only want to stay in Goulimime south of Sidi Ifni along the coast, has a if necessary, as many hotels are basic and great beach. Overlooking it from the bare some may not appeal to women. If you have hillside, Auberge Figue de Barbarie transport, there is better accommodation (%0672 69 08 13; www.aubergefiguedebarbarie. outside town. com; s/d Dh150/200), named after the sur- rounding prickly pears, occupies a beauti- Hôtel Ijdiguen HOTEL € fully restored farmhouse with green lizards (%0528 77 14 53; Blvd Ibnou Battouta; s/d painted on the walls. The four rooms are Dh75/150) Across the road from the grand- simple, traditional affairs with small sa- taxi station, Ijdiguen (‘Ichdigen’) is clean lons and shared bathrooms, but certainly and welcoming, with tiled corridors, reason- aren’t lacking in style. The auberge was able rooms and shared showers. previously a ruin and there are idiosyncra- sies – high winds sometimes knock out the Hôtel Hamza HOTEL €€ electricity – but it’s a great place to savour (%0528 87 39 75; hotelhamza.webs.com; off the countryside. Half-/full board are an Rte d’Agadir; s/d/tr/ste Dh360/460/520/900; extra Dh100/150 per person. The owners, aiW) In this quiet and welcoming cara- who can help organise activities including vanserai located behind the tourist office, fishing, biking and day trips, also offer a re- expansive corridors lead to cool and spa- stored pisé house in Ifni (Dh1500/3000 per cious rooms with bathrooms of varying week/month). quality. Mesti Hôtel Adil Moussafir HOTEL €€ (%0528 77 29 30; www.hoteladilmoussafir.com; This Berber village is 25km southeast of Sidi off Rte d’Agadir; s/d/tr/ste Dh480/550/700/1000; Ifni on the road through the prickly-pear- W) Goulimime’s grandest option, the Adil covered hills to Goulimime. At the turnoff Moussafir has a restaurant (mains Dh70) for Mesti and the back road to Tiznit, you and spacious, comfortable rooms with can do a tasting at the shop of honey coop- slightly tired bathrooms. erative Miel Afoulki (%0661 47 24 33). It sells some extraordinary local flavours, including 5 Eating orange and euphorbia. In the village, the Tafyoucht Cooperative (%0528 21 84 16; Around the bus station and north of the tafyouchte.com) is a women’s cooperative pro- post office are good areas for cafes and restaurants.

395 AROUND GOULIMIME Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a GISnofuotlrhimmeairtmnieoAntla n tic C oast Tighmert oasis makes a scenic drive from Goulimime, with views of the distant Anti Atlas. You can drive a circuit of this palmeraie (palm grove)in an hour or two on Rte d’Asrir, returning to town along the Goulimime–Assa road. There are a few basic guesthouses in the oasis, mostly located some 20km south- east of Goulimime off Rte d’Asrir. Maison d’Hôtes Nomades (%0667 90 96 42; www. darnomade.com; off Rte d’Asrir; d/tr from Dh200/250, breakfast/dinner/picnic Dh30/80/50) is a family-run guesthouse deep in the oasis (there are some tight corners on the drive there), with rugs and farming implements decorating the pisé walls and simple rooms with shared or private bathroom. Accommodation is also available in a Berber tent (per person Dh60) and dinner features dishes such as dromedary tajine. Camel rides and other activities are offered, but you may prefer to just lounge on the roof terrace taking in the views. For a grand taxi to Tighmert from Goulimime (Dh10), take a petit taxi (day/night Dh5/9) to the grand-taxi station near the central market, 800m south of Pl Bir Anzarane at the start of the road to Assa and Asrir. Accessed from the N12 between Goulimime and Tata (or along back roads from the Anti Atlas), the oasis village of Id-Âïssa, also known as Amtoudi after the gorge it occupies, has walking trails to two agadirs, a waterfall and cave paintings. One of the agadirs is particularly impressive, towering above the village on a spindly outcrop. Be- neath the gorge’s towering cliffs, French-owned guesthouse On Dirait le Sud (%0528 21 85 69; [email protected]; s/d/tr with bathroom from Dh255/260/315, without bathroom Dh155/160/215, dm per person Dh55, breakfast Dh35, dinner Dh80-100) has four simple whitewashed rooms adorned with rugs. It is well set up for trekking, with information and maps in the salon, and two- to 16-day guided treks offered in the Anti Atlas. In the second half of September, a festival and fantasia takes place in the nearby village of Âït Herbil, also known for its rock engravings. Id-Âïssa is 30km from the N12, signposted from near the village of Taghjicht. To get there by grand taxi from Goulimime, you will likely have to change in Bouizakarne and Souk Tnine-Nouadai. A shared/private taxi from Bouizakarne costs about Dh35/210. From Tata, pick up a ride to Goulimime or Bouizakarne and alight in Taghjicht, from where a private taxi costs Dh120. On the other side of Goulimime, French resort Fort Bou-Jerif (%0528 87 30 39; www. fortboujerif.com; campsite from Dh70, incl half-board s Dh490-600, d Dh800-1000, khaïma per person incl half-board Dh320; s) offers a taste of the desert, 40km northwest of town via the Sidi Ifni and Plage Blanche roads (it’s well signposted). The last 9km is rough piste, passable in a normal vehicle at glacial pace. Built near a ruined French Foreign Legion fort, the compound has a range of sleeping options, from hotel and motel rooms to khaïmas (nomad tents) and camping. There is also a bar-restaurant (set menu Dh180), where the speciality is dromedary tajine. Owner Pierre offers activities including 4WD trips to Plage Blanche, a little-visited and unspoiled stretch of beach 40km southwest of Bou-Jerif. La Plage Blanche MOROCCAN € 88 Information (Ziz garage, Rte d’Agadir; meals Dh60; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Near Pl Bir Anzarane, this Pl Bir Anzarane is the centre of town, and near Westernised snack bar serves dishes ranging here you’ll find banks, internet cafes and the from pizzas, burgers and spaghetti to tajines post office. and pil-pil prawns. On Friday, join the locals Tourist Office (%0528 87 29 11; www. and treat yourself to the couscous, while the crt-guelmim.com; 3 Résidence Sahara, Rte masses pray outside the mosque across the d’Agadir; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Follow road. the sign for Hôtel Hamza and turn immediately left.

396 boundaries) without realising you were in the town, which spreads mostly south of the 88 Getting There & Away highway. The majority of the inhabitants are nomads who settled here, and blue robes AIR are a big feature. The army and police pres- RAM (www.royalairmaroc.com) flies between ence is also noticeable, due to the proximity Goulimime Airport and Casablanca five times of the disputed Western Sahara. Look out a week (Dh600). Canary Fly (www.canaryfly for the middle-of-the-roundabout stop sign .es) flies weekly to/from Gran Canaria (€130) west of town; the police at the post beyond in Spain’s Canary Islands. Laâyoune-based are not shy of issuing a ticket or pocketing a travel agent El Sahariano (see p400) sells tick- petit cadeau (little present) to overlook the ets for both. infraction. BUS Tan Tan was founded in the 1940s dur- The bus station is a 10-minute walk north of Pl ing the Spanish Protectorate, but had its Bir Anzarane. moment in 1975, when the area was the de- parture point for the Green March (p424). CTM (Blvd Ibnou Battouta) and Supratours It’s a run-down place with tough but not have at least one daily departure to the following unfriendly inhabitants. The Sunday souq places: is held 1.5km south of town and a Unesco- protected moussem (www.moussemdetantan. DESTINATION COST (DH) DURATION (HR) org/en) takes place in September, featuring Agadir 85 5 camel racing and music. Casablanca 280 12 Dakhla 315 16 Tan Tan Plage, also known as Al-Ouatia, Laâyoune 155 7½ 25km west of Tan Tan, is a dilapidated seaside Marrakesh 180 7½ resort overlooking a long, windswept beach. Rabat 305 13½ The town only briefly comes to life during the Tan Tan 40 2 Moroccan summer holiday, but staying here Tiznit 40 2¾ is nonetheless preferable to Tan Tan. Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a SGTAoeNtuttTihAneNgr TnhAetrlea &n tAiwcaCyoast Daily Satas (% 0528 87 22 13; Gare Routière) 4 Sleeping & Eating buses are a cheaper option: DESTINATION COST (DH) 4 Tan Tan Agadir 50 Inezgane 40 There are cheap eateries on Ave Hassan Laâyoune 130 II, Ave Mohammed V and around the gare Tan Tan 30 routière (bus station), although many close Tiznit 30 at lunchtime or take a while to rustle up food. Hôtel Sable d’Or is a popular choice for TAXI a meal or café au lait. Cheap hotels overlook You can catch grands taxis from behind the bus the gare routière. station to Inezgane (Dh70), Laâyoune (Dh200), Sidi Ifni (Dh25), Tan Tan (Dh50) and Tiznit Hôtel Sable d’Or HOTEL € (Dh35). (%0528 87 80 69; [email protected]; Ave Has- san II; s/d Dh150/200; W) Next to the banks on the main road, this friendly family-run hotel has comfortable en-suite rooms with flatscreen TV. Ask for a room at the rear, Tan Tan & Tan Tan Plage away from the main road. There’s a cafe- ‫طانطان‬ restaurant with a pool table. POP 50,000 Hôtel Bir Anzarane HOTEL € (%0528 87 78 34; [email protected]; Ave South of Goulimime, across the dry Oued Hassan II; s/d/tr Dh80/100/180; W) A worn but Drâa, you enter the cauldron of the Sahara clean place, next to the royal palace (soldiers proper. The 130km of desert highway to Tan patronise the cafe here) on the west side of Tan is impressive for its bleak emptiness and the river. Above the breezy cafe, the small harsh hammada (flat, stony desert). but neat rooms share bathrooms with squat and flush toilets. If you weren’t stopped by security on the way in, you could probably drive along the N1 (known as Ave Hassan II within Tan Tan’s

397 4 Tan Tan Plage posite the Dubai Hotel, operates similar services at slightly higher prices. There are seafront hotels and campgrounds on the port road. Other, cheaper companies, all serving the same destinations, use Tan Tan gare routière Hôtel Belle Vue HOTEL € (bus station; Pl de la Marche Verte), off Ave (%0528 87 91 33; s/d from Dh100/200; W) This Mohammed V about 1km south of Ave Hassan II. appropriately named family-run seafront hotel has basic en-suite rooms, reached TAXI along white corridors hung with cheery From Tan Tan gare routière, grands taxis head paintings. The cafe-restaurant (breakfast to Agadir (Dh100), Goulimime (Dh50), Inezgane and meals Dh25 to Dh90) is one of Tan Tan (Dh100), Laâyoune (Dh150), Tan Tan Plage Plage’s best, serving tajines, omelettes, sar- (Dh11), Tarfaya (D150) and Tiznit (Dh70). dines and calamari. Grands taxis to Tan Tan Plage also leave from the top of Blvd el-Amir Moulay Abdallah, a few hundred metres south of Ave Hassan II. Hôtel Hagounia HOTEL € (%0528 87 90 20; www.hotel-hagounia.com; s/d incl breakfast from Dh200/300, ste Dh500/600; Tarfaya ‫طرفايه‬ W) The Hagounia has gloomy but comfort- POP 6000 able rooms, featuring small balconies with The small fishing port of Tarfaya was the centre of the Spanish Protectorate of Cap beach or port views, and a sea-facing cafe- Juby, now known as the Tarfaya Strip. A restaurant. Scottish trader, Donald Mackenzie, created 88 Information the original settlement in the late 19th cen- tury, building a small trading post on a rock TAN TAN just offshore, which he called Port Victoria. Telephone boutiques and banks with ATMs and When the Spanish took over, they appropri- exchange facilities are clustered around the ated the building, now known as Casa Mar junction of Aves Hassan II and Mohammed V. (p398). The area gained independence from Club Internet (off Ave Hassan II; per hr Dh3; Spain in 1958. Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TSI naofruoftrahymeaartnioAntla n tic C oast h9am-midnight) Next to Samir Oil petrol The Moroccan government upgraded station. Tarfaya’s municipal status to provincial Post Office (Pl de la Mare Verte) centre in 2009, and the town is on the cusp of big developments. A wind farm is being TAN TAN PLAGE constructed 25km away and a new port is A post office and two banks with ATMs and ex- planned, with hopes for the relaunch of the change facilities. ferry connection to the Canary Islands and 88 Getting There & Away greater tourist numbers. New beachfront promenades and restaurants are also on AIR the drawing board. For now, however, Tar- RAM (www.royalairmaroc.com) flies between faya’s charm remains; it’s a friendly outpost Tan Tan Airport and Casablanca five times a with a seductively remote feel to the sand week (Dh600). blowing between its crumbling colonial BUS relics. CTM (% 0528 76 58 86; Ave Hassan II) in Tan The town will forever be associated Tan has daily departures including the following: with the French pilot and writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. In 1926 he began flying in the airmail service between France and DESTINATION COST (DH) DURATION (HR) Senegal, and Cap Juby was one of the stops. Agadir 125 6 In 1927 he was appointed station manager Dakhla 290 14 for Cap Juby and he spent a couple of years Goulimime 40 1½ here, writing his first novel Courrier Sud Laâyoune 120 5 (Southern Mail), in which an airmail pilot Tiznit 80 3½ dies south of Boujdour in the desert of Rio de Oro. He also picked up inspiration for his Supratours (%Tan Tan Plage 0528 87 96 65, most famous story, Le Petit Prince (The Lit- 0528 87 77 95; Ave Hassan II), which stops in tle Prince), which features a pilot lost in the Tan Tan and also at its office in Tan Tan Plage op- desert.

398 Casa Mar HOTEL € (%0528 89 53 26; [email protected]; s/d 1 Sights & Activities without bathroom from Dh100/120, with bathroom Dh180/250; W) Just outside the port entrance, There are some good fishing, surfing and Casa Mar’s cafe-restaurant (breakfast/mains kitesurfing spots around Tarfaya. Ask your Dh25/70) serves a good selection of seafood accommodation or Les Amis de Tarfaya about organising an expedition. oHistoric Sites HISTORIC SITES dishes, ranging from mixed grilled fish to Numerous dilapidated buildings recall the calamari tajine. The cafe, a popular meeting days when Saint-Exupéry and the chaps point, is a good place to check your emails touched down here. The Casa Mar is aban- and watch local characters stroll in. Rooms doned but still standing, and can be eas- in the hotel’s old section are terrible, but a ily reached at low tide. At the north end new extension was being built when we vis- of the beach, a monument honours Saint- ited, with spacious en-suite rooms and port Exupéry’s memory: a dinky green Bréguet views. 14 biplane, the sort he used to fly. Nearby, the Spanish fort now houses military bar- Hotel Aoudate HOTEL €€ (%0528 89 58 68; per person incl breakfast from racks, and behind the museum is the 1930s Dh250; W) The builders were finishing this cinema; in the same area, swashbucklers swapped anecdotes between flights at Bar hotel when we visited, and it promised to be Tarfaya’s most comfortable. Available with des Pilotes. The wrecked Armas ferry As- or without balcony and private bathroom, salama, 2km south of town, put paid to the short-lived connection between Tarfaya and the 35 rooms have attractive checkered bed- ding and satellite TV, with sea views from Fuerteventura when it went down in 2008. the upper floors. A Spanish restaurant was Musée Saint-Exupéry MUSEUM set to join the ground-floor cafe. (%0661 07 94 88; admission Dh10; h8.30am- 88 Information 4.30pm Mon-Fri, by appointment Sat & Sun) Tells the stories (in French) of Saint-Exupéry, the Tarfaya has a medical centre, pharmacies, an airmail service’s founder Pierre-Georges internet cafe, a laundrette and banks with ATMs Southern Morocco & Western Sahar a TSaiogruhftathsyea&r nAcAttilvaitniteisc C oast Latécoère, and the incredible service itself, and exchange facilities. which eventually became part of Air France. Les Amis de Tarfaya (%0661 07 94 88; [email protected]) Information is available Festivals & Events from the English-speaking Sadat at this local tourism association, based at Musée Saint- Rallye Toulouse Saint-Louis FESTIVAL Exupéry. (www.rallyetoulousesaintlouis.com; hlate Sep or early Oct) The airmail service is remembered when light aircraft fly from France to Sen- 88 Getting There & Away egal and back, landing in Tarfaya en route. Bus companies, including CTM, stop in Tarfaya, 4 Sleeping & Eating but Supratours (% 0528 89 52 84; Rte du Port) has the only reliable office. It has the best buses There are numerous self-catering apart- and so is the best option anyway, given the bru- ments in Tarfaya, including Residence Ar- tal journey times in the Sahara. Daily Supratours mas (%0673 54 66 47; ste Dh350; W), which departures head for the following places: has four suites sleeping up to three people each. Les Amis de Tarfaya can help you find DESTINATION COST (DH) DURATION (HR) an apartment. Agadir 180 8 Dakhla 220 10 Numerous cafes on the main street serve Goulimime 130 6 cheap dishes such as grilled fish. Laâyoune 40 2 Marrakesh 250 13 Residence Hotelière Addoyouf PENSION €€ Tan Tan 80 3 (Hotel Cap Juby; %0665 43 58 92; alisalemtar- Tiznit 150 7 [email protected]; s/d Dh188/376) This blue-and- yellow building at the northern entrance to Grands taxis go to Laâyoune (Dh40) and Tan Tan town has five rooms on the 1st floor, with (Dh80). Tarfaya has petrol stations, car-washing a shared bathroom, kitchen and terrace. services and mechanics. Meals are available and an adjoining booth sells basic provisions.