[Lonely Planet] Morocco

449 due for their striking embroidery in one or two bold colours along the borders of crisp white linen. Passementerie Emerging Art & Cr af ts C ra f ts What’s that guy doing with a blow-dryer and silk thread down a me- Art Talents dina side alley? That would be a passementerie (trims) mâalem at work, using a repurposed blow-dryer to spin thread from a nail stuck in the Khadija Kab- wall until it’s the perfect width and length to make into knotted buttons, baj – basketry silken tassels and snappy jellaba trim. In a cupboard-sized Moroccan tables, mummified passementerie shop, you’ll find enough gold braid to decorate an army Barbies and other of generals and more tassels than a burlesque troupe could spin in a subversively ap- lifetime – but you’ll also find a jackpot of small, portable gifts. Moroccan plied traditions mâalems have made a stand-alone art of trimming, wrapping wire and washers with silk thread to create mod statement necklaces, napkin-ring Hicham holders, knotted keychains and curtain-pulls. Benohoud – self- Felt portraits with Handmade felt hats, slippers, coats, pillows, bags or floor coverings really faces obliterated put wool through the wringer: it’s dyed, boiled and literally beaten to a by shredded paper, pulp. Instead of being woven or sewn, felt is usually pounded with savon sticky notes, corks noir (natural palm soap), formed into the intended shape on a mould Hassan Hajjaj – and allowed to dry gradually to hold its shape. Felt makers are usually mock fashion pho- found in the wool souq in major cities. tos of women in Louis Vuitton veils Weaving and Moroccan-flag Beyond the sea of imported harem pants and splashy synthetic jellabas in the souqs, hand-woven Moroccan fabrics with exceptional sheen and jellabas texture may catch your eye: nubby organic cotton from the Rif, shiny ‘cactus silk’ (soie végétale) woven with cotton and rayon from the south, The Art of the sleek Marrakesh table linens and whisper-soft High Atlas woollen blan- Islamic Tile, by kets. Some lesser-quality knock-offs are industrially produced, but con- Gerard Degeorge noisseurs seek out the plusher nap, tighter weave and elegant drape of and Yves Porter, hand-woven Moroccan fabrics. celebrates the splendours of In souqs, village cooperatives and Ensemble Artisanal showrooms, ceramics across you might glimpse two to four women at a time on a loom, working on a the Middle East, single piece. Men work larger looms for jellaba fabric, pushing the shut- from Istanbul tle with arms as they pound pedals with their feet – producing one metre of fabric this way is a workout equivalent to running several miles while to Fez. dribbling a basketball. You can buy linens and clothing ready-made or get hand-woven fabric by the bolt or metre, and have Moroccan decor and couture custom-made to your specifications. Tailors can be found in every major city, but be sure to leave enough time for the initial consulta- tion plus two fittings for clothing. Leatherwork Now that there’s not much call for camel saddles anymore, Moroccan leather artisans keep busy fashioning embossed leather book covers and next season’s must-have handbags with what look like medieval dentistry tools. Down medieval derbs (alleys), you’ll discover freshly tanned and dyed lime-green leather sculpted into fashion-forward square pouffes (ottomans), yellow pompoms carefully stitched onto stylish fuchsia kid- skin gloves, or shocking silver leather stretched and sewn into flouncy bedroom slippers. Along these leather souqs, you might spot artisans dabbing henna onto stretched goatskin to make ‘tattooed’ leather can- dle holders, lampshades or stand-alone artworks. If you’re in town for a couple of days, you might even commission an artisan to make you a custom-made bag, lambskin leather jacket or jodhpurs.

Art & Cr af ts C ra f ts450 If it’s an authenticity trip you’re after, for men you’ll prefer the tra- Plain terracotta ditional yellow babouches (slippers) or ‘Berber Adidas’, leather slippers cooking tajines with soles made from recycled rubber tyres. Women’s babouches come in are oven safe, a broader range of colours and designs, and you may see vats of vibrant fine for stovetop dye used for them in tanneries in Fez. But as colourful as they may look cooking and cost from afar, the tanneries give off a putrid stench – many medina residents less than Dh80. would prefer to see them outside the city limits. Wrap them well against breakages Ceramics on the trip home. Moroccan ceramics are a delight, and excellent value – a decorative tajine may run you Dh150 to Dh400, depending on size and decoration. Different regions have their own colour schemes: Meknès ceramics tend to be green and black, Safi offers black and white Berber patterns, and Tamegroute makes a distinctive green glaze from oxidised copper. Salé is strong on yellow and turquoise, geometric patterns and intricate dot- patterned dishes. Marrakesh specialises in monochrome ceramics in red, graphite or orange instead of elaborate decoration. Many rural areas specialise in terracotta crockery, with plain, striking shapes and Berber good-luck symbols painted in henna. AMBER Zellij To make a Moroccan fountain, grab your hammer and chisel, and care- fully chip a glazed tile into a geometrically correct shape. Good job – now only 6000 more to go to finish your water feature. Then again, you might leave it to the Moroccan mosaic masters to spiff up your foyer with glit- tering zellij end tables, entryway mirrors and fountains of all sizes. Fez has a reputation for the most intricate, high-lustre zellij, and the historic fountains around town dating from the Middle Ages are convincing ad- vertisements for Fassi masterworks. Brass, Copper & Silver Tea is a performance art in Morocco, requiring just the right props. As though tea poured from over your head wasn’t dramatic enough, gleam- ing brass teapots and copper tea trays are hammered by hand to catch the light and engraved with calligraphy to convey baraka on all who partake. Pierced brass lamps and recycled tin lanterns add instant at- mosphere – and if all else fails to impress, serve your guests a sliver of cake with an inlaid knife from Morocco’s dagger capital, Kelaâ M’Gouna. Most ‘silver’ tea services are actually nickel silver, and should cost ac- cordingly – about Dh50 to Dh250 for the teapot, and usually more for the tray (depending on size and design). Lots of the Jewellery ‘amber’ you’ll see in the souqs Not all that glitters is gold in Morocco, since Berbers traditionally believe is plastic. The gold to be a source of evil. You may see some jewellers with magnifying genuine article glasses working a tricky bit of gold filigree, but most gold you see in the will have a faint souqs is imported from India and Bali. Sterling will be marked with 925, incense smell and is often sold by weight rather than design. Morocco’s mining opera- when you light tions are more concerned with phosphates and fossils than with precious a match near it, gems, but you will see folkloric dowry jewellery and headdresses with and a slightly semiprecious stones, including coral, agate, cornelian and amber. waxy feel. But Moroccan mâalems don’t need precious materials to create a thing of beauty. Ancient ammonite and trilobite fossils from Rissani make fas- cinating prehistoric amulets, and striking Berber fibales (brooches) in silver are Tiznit’s speciality. Layered wood, nickel silver and brightly col- oured enamel make groovy cocktail rings in Marrakesh, and desert Tuar- eg talismans in leather and silver are fitting gifts for a man of the world.

451 BUYING SUSTAINABLE SOUVENIRS Art & Cr af ts C ra f ts Most Sustainable: Tyre Crafts Used tyres don’t biodegrade, and burning them produces toxic fumes – but when clev- erly repurposed by Moroccan artisans, they make fabulous home furnishings. Tyre-tread mirrors make any entryway look dashingly well-travelled and inner-tube tea trays are ideal for entertaining motorcycle gangs. For the best selection, visit the tyre-craft mâale- ms (master artisans) lining the south end of Rue Riad Zitoun el-Kedim in Marrakesh. Quite Sustainable: Argan Oil The finest cosmetic oil to ever pass through the business end of a goat. Outside Es- saouira and in the Anti Atlas, goats climb low argan trees to eat the nuts, digesting the soft, fuzzy outer layer and passing the pit. Traditionally, women then collect the dung, and extract, clean and crack the pit to remove the nut, which is then pressed to yield the orange-tinted oil rich in vitamin E. This is arduous handwork, and buying from a collec- tive is the best way to ensure that the women are paid fairly. Possibly Sustainable: Berber Carpets & Blankets Berber blankets are often made with wool so natural that you can feel the lanolin on them. Most weavers use a combination of natural and artificial dyes to achieve the desired brilliance and lightfastness. Some cooperatives card and dye their own wool for natural colours, but for bright colours it’s better that they source their wool from reputable dyers instead of handling and disposing of chemical dyes themselves. For associations advancing best environmental practices and paying women weavers fairly, visit Kasbah Myriem (p344), Cooperative Feminin de Tissage Aït Bououli (p93), Jemaite Tifawin Carpet Cooperative (p127) and Association Gorge du Dadès (p136). Not so Sustainable: Thuya Wood The root of a juniper that grows only in Morocco, this caramel-coloured knotty burl is at risk of being admired to extinction. Buy carved thuya bowls and jewellery boxes only from artisans’ collectives more likely to practise responsible collection and reforesting, such as the Cooperative Artisanal des Marqueteurs (p216) and the Cooperative Arti- sanale des Femmes de Marrakesh (p79). Woodwork Answers to your every ‘how’d they The most pleasingly scented part of the souq is the woodworkers’ area, do that?’ are on aromatic from the curls of wood carpeting the floors of master-carvers’ display at state- workshops. These are the mâalems responsible for the ancient carved, brass-studded cedar doors and those carved cedar muqarnas (honey- run Ensemble comb) domes that cause wonderment in Moroccan palaces. Tetouan, Artisanales, Meknès and Fez have the best reputations for carved wood ornaments, where you can but you’ll see impressive woodwork in most Moroccan medinas. watch mâalems at work and pur- For the gourmets on your gift list, hand-carved orangewood harira chase their handi- (soup) spoons are small ladles with long handles that make ideal tasting work at fixed (if spoons. Cedar is used for ornate jewellery boxes and hefty chip-carved somewhat stiff) chests are sure to keep the moths at bay. The most prized wood is thuya wood, knotty burl from the roots of trees indigenous to the Essaouira prices. region. Buy from artisans’ associations that practise responsible tree management and harvesting.

4 52 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Architecture Stubbed toes come with the territory in Morocco: with so much intriguing architecture to gawp at, you can’t always watch where you’re going. Some buildings are more memor- able than others – as in any developing country there’s makeshift housing and cheap concrete – but it’s the striking variation in architecture that keeps you wondering what’s behind that wall, down the block and over the next mountain pass. Here’s some Moroc- can landmarks likely to leave your jaw on tiled floors, and your toes in jeopardy. Top Deco Deco Villas Villa des Arts, When Morocco came under colonial control, villes nouvelles (new towns) Casablanca were built outside the walls of the medinas, with street grids and modern Jardin Majorelle, architecture imposing strict order. Neoclassical facades, mansard roofs Marrakesh and high-rises must have come as quite a shock when they were intro- Cinematheque, duced by the French and Spanish. Tangier But one style that seemed to bridge local Islamic geometry and Plaza de España, streamlined European modernism was art deco. Painter Jacques Major- elle brought a Moroccan colour sensibility to deco in 1924, adding bursts Melilla of blue, green and acid yellow to his deco villa and Jardin Majorelle. El-Minzah Hotel, Author Tahir Shah’s relocation to Casablanca and restoration of a Tangier historic home inspired The Caliph’s House, including this observation: ‘There can be no country on earth better suited to buying decorations Eight of the than Morocco. Every corner of the kingdom has its own unique styles, world’s leading each one perfected through centuries of craftsmanship.’ Islamic architec- tural scholars In its 1930s heyday, Casablanca cleverly grafted Moroccan geometric give you their detail onto whitewashed European edifices, adding a signature Casa- best explanations blanca Mauresque deco look to villas, movie palaces and hotels, nota- in Architecture of bly Marius Boyer’s 1930 Cinéma Rialto and the 1922 Hôtel Transatlan- the Islamic World: tique. Tangier rivalled Casablanca for Mauresque deco decadence, with Its History and its 1940s Cinematheque and 1930s El-Minzah Hotel – the architectural Social Meaning model for Rick’s Cafe Américain in the 1942 classic film Casablanca. by Oleg Grabar Mauresque elements can be seen in cities all over Morocco. et al. Funduqs Since medieval times, these creative courtyard complexes featured ground-floor artisans’ workshops and rented rooms upstairs – from the nonstop funduq flux of artisans and adventurers emerged cosmopolitan ideas and new inventions. Funduqs once dotted caravan routes, but as trading communities became more stable and affluent, most funduqs were gradually replaced with private homes and storehouses. Happily, 140 funduqs remain in Marrakesh, including historic funduqs near Pl Bab Fteuh, several lining Rue Dar el-Bacha and one on Rue el-Mouassine featured in the film Hideous Kinky. In Fez, an exemplary funduq dating from 1711 underwent a six-year renovation to become the spiffy Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. The state is investing Dh40 million to spruce up 98 more funduqs, so now’s the time to see them in all their well-travelled, shop-worn glory.

453 Hammams Historic Architecture Hammams Hammams These domed buildings have been part of the Moroccan urban landscape since the Almohads, and every village aspires to a hammam of its own – Hammam Dar el- often the only local source of hot water. Traditionally they are built of Bacha, Marrakesh mudbrick, lined with tadelakt (satiny hand-polished limestone plaster that traps moisture) and capped with a dome with star-shaped vents to Hammam Lalla let steam escape. The domed main room is the coolest area, with side Mira, Essaouira rooms offering increasing levels of heat to serve the vaguely arthritic to Douches Barakat, the woefully hung-over. Chefchaouen Hammam Bab The boldly elemental forms of traditional hammams may strike you as incredibly modern, but actually it’s the other way around. The hammam Doukkala, is a recurring feature of landscapes by modernist masters Henri Matisse Marrakesh and Paul Klee, and Le Corbusier’s International Style modernism was Archaeological inspired by the interior volumes and filtered light of these iconic domed excavations, North African structures. Tadelakt has become a sought-after surface treatment for pools and walls in high-style homes, and pierced domes in- Aghmat corporated into the ‘Moroccan Modern’ style feature in umpteen coffee- table books. To see these architectural features in their original context, pay a visit to your friendly neighbourhood hammam – there’s probably one near the local mosque, since hammams traditionally share a water source with ablutions fountains. Kasbahs Wherever there were once commercial interests worth protecting in Mo- rocco – salt, sugar, gold, slaves – you’ll find a kasbah. These fortified quarters housed the ruling family, its royal guard, and all the necessities for living in case of a siege. The mellah (Jewish quarter) was often pos- itioned within reach of the kasbah guard and the ruling power’s watchful eye. One of the largest remaining kasbahs is Marrakesh’s 11th-century kasbah, which still houses a royal palace and acres of gardens, and flanks Marrakesh’s mellah. Among the most photogenic northern kasbahs are HAMMAM ETIQUETTE Visiting a hammam (traditional bathhouse) is infinitely preferable to cursing under a cold shower in a cheap hotel. They’re busy, social places, where you’ll find gallons of hot water, and staff available to scrub you clean. They’re also good places to meet the locals and, especially for women, somewhere to escape street hassle. Every town has at least one hammam, often a modern, white-tiled and spacious affair. Often there are separate hammams for men and women; others open to either sex at different hours or on alternate days. Some hammams are unmarked and others simply have a picture of a man or woman stencilled on the wall outside; locals will happily direct you. Most hammams are welcom- ing, but a few (often those close to a mosque) are unwilling to accept foreign visitors. Bring your own towels (in a waterproof bag), a plastic mat or something to sit on, and flip-flops (thongs). Some hammams sell toiletries; look out for ghassoul (clay mixed with herbs, dried roses and lavender), el-kis (coarse glove), black soap made from the resin of olives (which stings if you get it in your eyes) and henna (used by women). You’ll be given a bucket and scoop; remember to use the communal bucket when filling yours with water. Most hammams have showers. Hammam admission is typically around Dh10 (more in tourist areas), plus the op- tional extras of gommage (scrub) and massage. A few midrange and top-end hotels have more expensive hammams, which normally require advance notice to heat up, and a minimum of four or five people.

454 Architecture Ksour ENDANGERED MONUMENTS: GLAOUI KASBAHS The once spectacular Glaoui kasbahs at Taliouine, Tamdaght, Agdz and especially Telou- et have been largely abandoned to the elements – go and see them now, before they’re gone. These are deeply ambivalent monuments: they represent the finest Moroccan artistry (no one dared displease the Glaoui despots) but also the betrayal of the Alawites by the Pasha Glaoui, who collaborated with French colonists to suppress his fellow Mo- roccans. But locals argue Glaoui kasbahs should be preserved, as visible reminders that even the grandest fortifications were no match for independent-minded Moroccans. KSOUR the red kasbah overlooking all-blue Chefchaouen, and Rabat’s white- washed seaside kasbah with its elegantly carved gate, the Bab Oudaia. In 2009, Dh230 million was Unesco World Heritage designations saved Taourirt kasbah in Ouarza- set aside to zate and the rose-coloured mudbrick Aït Benhaddou, both restored and frequently used as film backdrops. To see living, still-inhabited kasbahs, restore ksour and head to Anmiter and Kasbah Amridil in Skoura Oasis. kasbahs, with top Ksour priorities in Er- Rachidia, Erfoud The location of ksour (mudbrick castles; singular ksar) are spectacularly formidable: atop a rocky crag, against a rocky cliff, or rising above a palm and Rissani. oasis. Towers made of metres-thick, straw-reinforced mudbrick are el- egantly tapered at the top to distribute the weight, and capped by zigzag merlon (crenellation). Like a desert mirage, a ksar will play tricks with your sense of scale and distance with its odd combination of grandeur and earthy intimacy. From these watchtowers, Timbuktu seems much closer than 52 days away by camel – and in fact, the elegant mudbrick architecture of Mali and Senegal is a near relative of Morocco’s ksour. To get the full effect of this architecture in splendid oasis settings, visit the ksour-packed Drâa and Dadès Valleys, especially the fascinating ancient Jewish ksar at Tamnougalt and the pink/gold/white ksar of Aït Arbi, teetering on the edge of the Dadès Gorge. Between the Drâa Valley and Dadès Valley, you can stay overnight in an ancient ksar in the castle- filled oases of Skoura and N’Kob, or pause for lunch at Ksar el-Khorbat and snoop around 1000-year-old Ksar Asir in Tinejdad. Caravan stops are packed with well-fortified ksour, where merchants brought fortunes in gold, sugar and spices for safekeeping after 52-day trans-Saharan journeys. In Rissani, a half-hour circuit will lead you past half a dozen splendid ancient ksour, some of which are slated for restora- tion. Along caravan routes heading north through the High Atlas toward Fez, you’ll spot spectacular ksour rising between snowcapped mountain peaks, including a fine hilltop tower that once housed the entire 300- person community of Zaouiat Ahansal. Medersas More than schools of rote religious instruction, Moroccan medersas have been vibrant centres of learning for law, philosophy and astronomy since the Merenid dynasty. For enough splendour to lift the soul and distract all but the most devoted students, visit the zellij-bedecked 14th-century Medersa el-Attarine in Fez and its rival for top students, the intricately carved and stuccoed Ali ben Youssef Medersa in Marrakesh. Now open as museums, these medersas give some idea of the austere lives students led in sublime surroundings, with long hours of study, several roommates, dinner on a hotplate, sleeping mats for comfort and one bathroom for up to 900 students. While other functioning medersas are closed to non- Muslims, Muslim visitors can stay overnight in some Moroccan med-

ersas, though arrangements should be made in advance and a modest 455Architecture Mo s q u e s donation is customary. The only fully active mosque Mosques non-Muslims are allowed to visit in Even small villages may have more than one mosque, built on prime Morocco is Casa- real estate in town centres with one wall facing Mecca. Mosques provide blanca’s Hassan moments of sublime serenity in chaotic cities and on busy village market II Mosque. It’s the days, and even non-Muslims can sense their calming influence. Towering world’s fifth- minarets not only aid the acoustics of the call to prayer, but provide a vis- largest mosque, ible reminder of God and community that puts everything else – minor so you won’t spats, dirty dishes, office politics – back in perspective. be cramping anyone’s style. Mosques in Morocco are closed to non-Muslims, with two excep- tions that couldn’t be more different: Casablanca’s sprawling Hassan II In addition to Mosque and austere Tin Mal Mosque nestled in the High Atlas. The Has- ancient fortress san II Mosque was completed in 1993 by French architect Michel Pinseau with great fanfare and considerable controversy: with room for 25,000 walls, 3m- to worshippers under a retractable roof and a 210m-high laser-equipped 6m-high border minaret, the total cost has been estimated at €585 million, not includ- barriers wrap the ing maintenance or restitution to low-income former residents moved to Mediterranean accommodate the structure (the cases are still apparently pending). At towns of Ceuta the other end of the aesthetic spectrum is the elegant simplicity of Tin and Melilla. Spain Mal Mosque, built in 1156 to honour the Almohads’ strict spiritual leader, Mohammed ibn Tumart, with cedar ceilings and soaring arches that lift and Morocco the eye and the spirits ever upward. dispute their sovereignty, and Muslims assert that no Moroccan architecture surpasses buildings local architecture built for the glory of God, especially mosques in the ancient Islamic does nothing spiritual centre of Fez. With walls and ablutions fountains covered in to resolve the lustrous green and white Fassi zellij (ceramic tile mosaic), and mihrabs conflict: the (niches indicating the direction of Mecca) swathed in stucco and mar- Spanish point ble, Fez mosques are purpose-built for spiritual glory. When vast portals out Andalucian are open between prayers, visitors can glimpse (no photos allowed) Fez’ elements, which crowning glory: Kairaouine Mosque and Medersa, founded in the 8th Moroccans will century by a Fassi heiress. Non-Muslims can also see Morocco’s most certainly remind historic minbar (pulpit): the 12th-century Koutoubia minbar, inlaid with you developed silver, ivory and marquetry by Cordoba’s finest artisans, and housed in under Almohad Marrakesh’s Badi Palace. rule. Ramparts Dramatic form follows defensive function in many of Morocco’s trading posts and ports. The Almoravids took no chances with their trading capi- tal, and wrapped Marrakesh in 16km of pink pisé (mudbrick reinforced with clay and chalk), 2m thick. Coastal towns like Essaouira and Assilah have witnessed centuries of piracy and fierce Portuguese-Moroccan trad- ing rivalries – hence the heavy stone walls dotted by cannons, and crenel- lated ramparts that look like medieval European castle walls. Riads Near palaces in Morocco’s major cities are grand riads, courtyard man- sions where families of royal relatives, advisors and rich merchants whiled away idle hours gossiping in bhous (seating nooks) around ar- caded courtyards paved with zellij and filled with songbirds twittering in fruit trees. Not a bad set-up, really, and one you can enjoy today in one of the many converted riad guesthouses in Marrakesh and Fez. So many riads have become B&Bs over the past decade that ‘riad’ has become a synonym for ‘guesthouse’ – but technically, an authentic riad has a courtyard garden divided in four parts, with a fountain in the centre. A riad is also not to be confused with a dar, which is a simpler,

456 Architecture So u q s LOST IN THE MEDINA MAZE? FOLLOW SOUQ LOGIC In labyrinthine Moroccan medinas, winding souqs hardly seem linear, but they do ad- here to a certain logic. Centuries ago, market streets were organised by trade so that medieval shoppers would know where to head for pickles or camel saddles. More than other medinas, Fez souqs maintain their original medieval organisation: kiosks selling silver-braided trim are right off the kaftan souq, just down the street from stalls sell- ing hand-woven white cotton for men’s jellabas. What about wool? That’s in a different souq, near stalls selling hand-carved horn combs for carding wool. The smelliest, messi- est trades were pushed to the peripheries, so you’ll know you’re near the edge of the medina when you arrive at tanneries, livestock markets and egg souqs. In Marrakesh, the saddle-making souq is at the northeast end of the souq, not far from the tanneries. Medinas: smaller house constructed around a central light well – a more practical Morocco’s Hidden structure for hot desert locales and chilly coastal areas. With more than 1000 authentic riads, including extant examples from the 15th century, Cities explores Marrakesh is the riad capital of North Africa. the shadows of ancient Moroccan From outside those austere, metre-thick mudbrick walls, you’d never walled cities, with guess what splendours await beyond brass-studded riad doors: painted painterly images cedar ceilings, ironwork balconies and archways dripping with stucco. by French photog- Upkeep isn’t easy, and modernising mudbrick structures with plumbing rapher Jean-Marc and electricity without destabilising the foundations is especially tricky. But for all its challenges, this ancient material may be the building mater- Tingaud and ial of the future. Mudbrick insulates against street sound, keeps cool in illuminating com- summer and warm in winter, and wicks away humidity instead of trap- mentary by Tahar ping it like mouldy old concrete – no wonder green builders around the world are incorporating it into their constructions. ben Jelloun. Souqs Top Souqs In Morocco, souqs – the market streets of a medina – are often covered Okchen Market, with palm fronds for shade and shelter, and criss-crossed with smaller Meknès streets lined with food stalls, storerooms and cubby-hole-sized artisans’ studios carved into thick mudbrick walls. Unlike souqs, these smaller Souq Sebbaghine streets often do not have names, and are together known as a qissaria. (Dyers’ Souq), Most qissariat are through streets, so when (not if) you get lost in them, Marrakesh keep heading onward until you intersect with the next souq or buy a carpet, whichever happens first. Souq an-Nejjarine (Carpenters’ Zawiyas Souq), Fez Souq el-Ghezel Don’t be fooled by modest appearances or remote locations in Morocco: even a tiny village teetering off the edge of a cliff may be a major draw (Wool Souq), Salé across Morocco because of its zawiya (shrine to a marabout). Just being Marché Central, in the vicinity of a marabout (saint) is said to confer baraka (a state of grace). Zawiya Nassiriyya in Tamegroute is reputed to cure the ill and Casablanca eliminate stress, and the zawiya of Sidi Moussa in the Aït Bougomez Valley is said to increase the fertility of female visitors. To boost your baraka you can visit the Tamegroute and Aït Bougomez zawiyas as well as the zawiya of Moulay Ali ash-Sharif in Rissani, which is now open to non-Muslims. Most zawiyas are closed to non-Muslims – including the famous Zawiya Moulay Idriss II in Fez, and all seven of Marrakesh’s zawiyas – but you can often recognise a zawiya by its ce- ramic green-tiled roof and air of calm even outside its walls. In rural areas, a marabout’s shrine (often confusingly referred to as a marabout rather than zawiya) is typically a simple mudbrick base topped with a whitewashed dome – though in the Ourika Valley village of Tafza you can see a rare red-stone example.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 457 Natural Wonders Morocco’s geographical variety can come as a surprise. A day’s journey can take you from Atlantic beaches through rich farmland, and over high mountain passes to the Sa- hara itself. The human landscape is no less fascinating – half of all Moroccans still live in rural areas, and everywhere you’ll spot people working this extraordinary land, harvest- ing barley on tiny stone-walled terraces hewn from cliffsides, tending to olive and argan groves, or leading their flocks of sheep to mountain pastures. Coastline If you’re going for a dip, be aware When the Umayyads arrived in Morocco, they rode their horses onto that the Atlantic Atlantic beaches and dubbed the country Al-Maghreb (where the sun rollers can hide sets), knowing that the sea marked the westernmost limit of their con- some fearsome quests. The coast has played a central role in Moroccan history, from the Barbary pirates to the Allied landings of WWII, but it’s learning to re- riptides, and once lax: King Mohammed VI’s Plan Azur is currently developing stretches of you’re in the Moroccan coastline into shiny new tourist hubs complete with holiday waters there’s villas, beach resorts and golf courses. Luckily for nature lovers, there’s still pristine coastline in between, with rare shorebirds and cliff’s-edge nothing between vistas. you and the Fishing and international trade have defined the Atlantic coastal Americas (or at economy ever since the Phoenicians and Romans established their port best, the Canary at Lixus. But the Atlantic also has its wild side, with raw, rocky beaches around whitewashed Assilah, and wetland habitats, such as the lagoon Islands). of Merja Zerga National Park, attracting flamingos and rare African wild- fowl. South of Casablanca are the ports of Oualidia and Essaouira, former pirate coves where rare wildlife still flourishes and Morocco’s best sea- food is served port-side. South of the commercialised boardwalks of Aga- dir, resort beaches empty into great sandy expanses stretching through Western Sahara to Mauritania. Morocco’s southern Atlantic coast has re- cently reprised its notorious pirate ways, smuggling sub-Saharan African immigrants to the Canary Islands. By contrast, the craggy Mediterranean coast has remained relatively undeveloped until recently, despite a spectacular coastline of sheltered coves and plunging cliffs. Tangier and the port towns of Ceuta and DUST-UP IN THE DESERT To see the desert the way nature intended, take a dromedary instead of an all-terrain vehicle. The 4WDs break up the surface of the desert, which is then scattered into the air by strong winds. By one estimate, the annual generation of dust has increased by 1000% in North Africa in the last 50 years – a major contributor to drought, as dust clouds shield the earth’s surface from sunlight and hinder cloud formation. What happens in the desert has far-reaching consequences: dust from the Sahara has reached as far away as Green- land. If you travel by camel instead, desert wildlife won’t be scared off by the vibrations, and you’re much more likely to spot small, sensitive and rather adorably big-eared desert creatures like the fennec fox, jerboa and desert hedgehog.

458 Natur al Wonders M o u n tai n s Melilla make the best of their advantageous positions, with scenic over- When hiking in looks and splendid coastal villas. The major barrier to the east is the Rif the Rif, try not to KIF Mountains, rugged terrain inhabited by staunchly independent Riffian step on the kif. Berbers who effectively resisted colonial control and speak their own Morocco is the language (Tarifit). The Rif has remained politically marginalised, which has one highly debatable advantage: kif (cannabis) is widely grown in one of the world’s the region east of Tetouan. But lack of access to essential services has largest producers compounded local poverty, and it’s taken huge government investment of cannabis, most to improve access to schooling and medicine via new infrastructure. Well-graded roads make exploring the Rif coastline more possible than of it destined ever before. for markets in western Europe. Mountains Three mountain ranges ripple diagonally across a topographical map of Morocco: the Rif in the north, the Middle Atlas (south of Fez) and the High Atlas (south and northeast of Marrakesh), with the southern sub- chain of the Anti Atlas slumping into the desert. The monumental force of plate tectonics brought these ranges into existence. Around 60 mil- lion years ago, a dramatic collision of African and Eurasian plates lifted up the High Atlas, while closing the Strait of Gibraltar and raising the Alps and Pyrenees. More recently, the mountains have provided shelter for self-sufficient Berbers, a safe haven for those fleeing invaders and a strategic retreat for organising resistance against would-be colonisers. In the north, the low Rif Mountains form a green, fertile arc that serves as a natural coastal barrier. Even the Vandals and Visigoths were no match for independent-minded Riffian Berbers, who for millennia successfully used their marginal position to resist incursions from Eu- rope and Africa alike. The Middle Atlas is the Moroccan heartland, a patchwork of farmland that runs from Volubilis to Fez and gradually rises to mountain peaks covered with fragrant forests of juniper, thuya and cedar. This sublime trekking country is also home to the Barbary ape, Morocco’s only (non- human) primate. Running northeast to southwest from the Rif, the range soars to 3340m at its highest point. But the real drama begins east of Agadir, where foothills suddenly rise from their crouched position to form the gloriously precipitous High Atlas Mountains. South of Marrakesh, the High Atlas reach dizzy heights at Jebel Toubkal, North Africa’s highest summit (4167m). On the lower flanks, the mountains are ingeniously terraced with orchards of walnuts, cherries, almonds and apples, which erupt into bloom in spring. The High Atlas hunkers down on the southeast into the Anti Atlas range, which protects the Souss Valley from the hot winds of the rising Sahara Desert. Desert No landscape is more iconic in Morocco than the desert, with rolling dunes and mudbrick ksour (fortified strongholds) rising majestically from hidden palm oases. But most of the desert is neither oasis nor dune, and it’s virtually uninhabitable. Vast tracts of barren, sun-bleached ham- mada (stony desert) are interrupted by rocky gorges, baked over millions of years by the desert’s ovenlike heat until the blackened surface turns glassy. The desert forms still-disputed borders east and south to Algeria and Mauritania. South of the Anti Atlas, the barren slopes trail off into the stony, almost trackless desert of Western Sahara. Even today, the sight of an oasis on this desolate desert horizon brings a rush of elation and wonder – but when ancient caravans emerged after a gruelling 52-day trans-Saharan journey with final stretches of dunes at

Erg Chigaga and Tinfou, the glimpse of green on the horizon at Zagora 459Natural Wonders Wildlife was nothing short of life-saving. From Zagora, caravans heading to the One less-than- Middle Atlas laden with gold proceeded warily through the Drâa Valley charming fact from one well-fortified ksar to the next, finally unloading the camels and about snake packing up mules at Skoura oasis. charming: to pre- vent them from Some caravans passed through the ancient desert gates of Sijilmassa biting handlers, (near Rissani), though there was no easy route: one approach was via snakes’ mouths the rose-gold dunes of Erg Chebbi at Merzouga, while the other led past are sometimes formidable Jebel Sarhro, inhabited by equally formidable seminomadic stitched closed. Aït Atta warriors. Today the mood in oases is considerably more relaxed, This often causes with a slow pace in the daytime heat and sociable evenings as visitors and locals gather around a warming fire. fatal mouth infections and Wildlife leaves snakes unable to feed. To Even after millennia of being inhabited, farmed and grazed, Morocco discourage this still teems with wildlife – a testament to sustainable traditional practices practice, don’t and careful resource management handed down through generations. pose with or tip Today Morocco’s 40 different ecosystems provide a habitat for many en- snake charmers demic species, including flora and fauna that are rare elsewhere. Indus- handling snakes trialisation has put considerable pressure on Morocco’s delicately bal- whose mouths anced natural environments, and while steps are being taken to create are stitched shut. wildlife reserves for Morocco’s endangered species, visitors can do their part to preserve natural habitats by staying on marked pistes (dirt tracks) and taking out waste. Coastal Species Away from the urban sprawl of port cities and resort complexes are long stretches of rugged Moroccan coastline, where people are far out- numbered by abundant bird populations and marine mammals such as dolphins and porpoises. Along beaches, you’ll spot white-eyed gulls, Mo- roccan cormorants and sandwich terns. Seabirds and freshwater birds thrive in preserves such as Souss-Massa National Park, where you might spy endangered bald ibis along with the ducks and waders who migrate here from Europe for the winter. On Morocco’s Mediterranean coast, you THE BARBARY LION – BACK FROM THE DEAD? When Morocco’s national football team – the Atlas Lions – take to the pitch, they’re honouring one of the country’s most iconic animals, albeit one that has long been on the extinct species list. The Barbary Lion was North Africa’s top predator. It was the largest and heaviest of all lion subspecies, with the males famed for their thick black manes. They were hunted by the Romans to provide sport for the gladiatorial combats of the Colosseum, while Moroccan sultans later gave them as diplomatic gifts. Slowly exterminated across the region through hunting and habitat loss, the lions persisted in heavily forested parts of Morocco’s Atlas and Rif Mountains well into the 20th century. The last wild lion is thought to have been shot in 1942, although recent research suggests that populations survived into the 1960s – no doubt aided by their naturally solitary behaviour, rather than living in prides as lions do in the rest of Africa. Remnant lion populations of mixed heritage survived in zoos across the world, includ- ing the personal zoo of the current king of Morocco. In recent years, a captive breeding program, coupled with the latest genetic fingerprinting techniques, has been attempting to recreate a genetically pure and viable population of the big cats. The ultimate aim of the International Barbary Lion Project is to create a protected reserve in the Atlas Mountains large enough to allow a limited reintroduction program. While this is a long way off – and the willingness of locals to share land with a top predator remains un- known – perhaps the last roar of this magnificent animal is yet to be heard.

460 Natur al Wonders Nat i o n a l Par k s might spot one of the world’s most endangered animals: the Mediter- Sahara: A Natural ranean monk seal. Only 450 to 600 remain, and a few have been sighted History, by Marq taking refuge in sheltered Moroccan coves. de Villiers and Sheila Hirtle, is a Desert Habitats highly readable account of the The Sahara may seem like a harsh place, but it’s home to numerous Sahara’s wildlife, creatures, including several furry, cuddly ones: several varieties of fluffy its people and gerbils; long-eared, spindly-legged, cartoonish jerboas; and the world’s geographical tiniest hedgehog, the desert hedgehog, tipping the scales at 300g to 500g. history. The delightful fennec fox has fur-soled feet and huge batlike ears to dis- sipate Sahara heat; pups look like Chihuahuas, only fuzzier. This desert The endangered fox is stealthy and nocturnal, but if you’re travelling by dromedary and Houbara bustard staying overnight in the desert, you might catch a brief glimpse. is making a While desert heat makes most humans sluggish, many desert creatures comeback with are elegant and swift. Dorcas gazelles are common, and you might also the release of catch a glimpse of a rare, reddish Cuvier’s gazelle. Lizards you might see 5000 captive- darting through the desert include skinks and spiny-tailed lizards, and bred birds into you might catch sight of the devilish-looking (though not especially poi- a 40,000-sq-km sonous) horned viper. Golden jackals are the most common predator in protected zone the Sahara, though in the more remote parts of the Western Sahara a few in Morocco’s desert-adapted cheetahs may yet survive. eastern desert – among the largest Mountain Wildlife reintroductions of any endangered Forested mountain slopes are Morocco’s richest wildlife habitats, where species in the it’s easy to spot sociable Barbary macaques (also known as Barbary apes) world. Bustards in the Rif and Middle Atlas, especially around Azrou. Less easy to track are notoriously are mountain gazelles, lynx and the endangered mouflon, or Barbary difficult to breed sheep. The mouflon are now protected in a High Atlas preserve near the in captivity due Tizi n’Test, where its only predator is the critically endangered Barbary to their intricate leopard – the last population of leopards in North Africa. mating behaviour Golden eagles soar in Atlas mountain updrafts, and High Atlas hikes and nervous might introduce you to red crossbills, horned larks, acrobatic booted disposition. eagles, Egyptian vultures, and both black and red kites. In springtime, butterflies abound in the mountains, including the scarlet cardinal and bright-yellow Cleopatra. National Parks With cities encroaching on natural habitats, the Moroccan government is setting aside protected areas to prevent the further disappearance of rare plant and animal species. Toubkal National Park in the High Atlas Moun- tains was the first national park to be created in 1942. After the vast Souss-Massa National Park was founded in 1991 outside Agadir, Morocco created four new national parks in 2004: Talassemtane (589 sq km) in the Rif; Al-Hoceima (485 sq km) in the Mediterranean, with outstanding coastal and marine habitats along the Mediterranean that include one of the last outposts of osprey; Ifrane National Park (518 sq km) in the Middle Atlas, with dense cedar forests and Barbary macaques; and the Eastern High Atlas National Park (553 sq km). Today Morocco’s 14 national parks and 35 nature reserves, forest sanctuaries and other protected areas overseen by Morocco’s Direc- tion des Eaux et Forêts are conserving species and advancing natural sciences. Park staff are tracking the region’s biodiversity through bo- tanical inventories, bird censuses, primate studies and sediment analy- ses. These studies are critical to understanding the broader causes of habitat loss, in Morocco and beyond; the Spanish and American Park Services have studied Morocco’s parklands to better understand bio- diversity concerns.

461 NOTABLE NATIONAL PARKS NATIONAL PARK LOCATION FEATURES ACTIVITIES BEST TIME Natur al Wonders C reat ive C o n s ervat i o n Toubkal National near highest peak in North Africa hiking, climbing May-Jun Park (p100) Marrakesh Mar-Oct Souss-Massa south of coastal estuaries & forests; 275 wildlife-watching, National Park Agadir species of birds, including birdwatching, Oct-Mar (p366) endangered bald ibis, mammals hiking Mehdiya & enclosed endangered species Dec-Jan Lac de Sidi lake & wetlands; 200 migratory hiking, swimming, Bourhaba (p190) Moulay bird species, including marbled birdwatching May-Sep Bousselham duck, African marsh owl & Apr-Oct Merja Zerga National flamingo wildlife-watching Jun-Sep Park (p191) Chefchaouen lagoon habitats; 190 species May-Oct of waterfowl, including African wildlife-watching, Talassemtane Bouarfa marsh owl, Andouin’s gull, hiking National Park near Taza flamingo & crested coot (p266) Al-Hoceima cedar & fir forests; Barbary hiking, climbing Bouarfa Wildlife macaque, fox, jackal & bats in the Sanctuary cedar forest hiking Tazzeka National red rock steppe Park (p350) birdwatching, Al-Hoceima National oak forests & waterfalls hiking Park (p265) thuya forest, limestone escarpments, fish eagles Parks have proven a boon to local wildlife, but a mixed blessing for human residents. While national parks protect local ecosystems and at- tract tourist revenue, access for local communities to water, grazing land and wild plants harvested for food and medicine has been limited or cut off entirely. But by conserving parkland, the Ministries of Tourism and Agriculture aim to help local ecosystems flourish, gradually restore ar- able land and ultimately benefit local communities with ecotourism that provides a profitable alternative to kif cultivation. In the near future, fees for park admission may be instituted to support the parks’ conserva- tion, scientific and community missions. Meanwhile, the best sights in Morocco are still free and visitors can show their appreciation to local communities by supporting local NGOs along their route. Creative Conservation The only thing more natural than the wonders of Morocco is the im- pulse to preserve them. Morocco is in a fortunate position: to envision a more sustainable future, it can look to its recent past. Ancient khettara irrigation systems, still in use, transport water from natural springs to fields and gardens in underground channels, without losing precious water to evaporation. Although certification is still a novel concept, most small-scale Moroccan farming practices are organic by default, since chemical fertilisers are costly and donkey dung pretty much comes with the territory. Community hammams use power and water for steamy saunas more efficiently than individual showers or baths. Locally made, detergent-free savon noir (‘black soap’ made from natural palm and olive oils) is gentle enough for a shave and effective as laundry soap, without polluting run-off – and leftover ‘grey water’ can be used for gardens and courtyard fountains. With Morocco’s traditional mudbrick architecture,

462 Natur al Wonders C reat ive C o n s ervat i o n metre-thick walls provide natural insulation against heat in summer and The Sahara Con- chill in winter, eliminating most street noise and the need for air-con servation Fund and central heating. (www.sahara conservation. Morocco is also thinking on its feet, becoming an early adopter of org) is dedicated resource-saving new technologies. The pioneering nation is already har- to preserving the nessing wind power in the Rif, and Ouarzazate now produces a com- wild creatures bined 500,000 megawatts of electricity at five sites, making it one of the of the Sahara, world’s largest solar-electricity generators. and provides a preview of To tackle challenges still ahead, Morocco will need all the resourceful- wildlife you might ness it can muster – and all the support it can get from visitors. Due spot in this to the demands of city dwellers and tourist complexes, 37% of villages vibrant desert around Marrakesh now lack a reliable source of potable water. Damming ecosystem. to create reservoirs frequently strips downstream water of valuable silts needed to sustain farms and coastal wetlands. Forests are also under threat, with around 250 sq km of forest lost each year, including Moroc- can pine, thuya and Atlas cedar. Pollution is a weighty concern, literally: Morocco’s cities alone produce an annual harvest of 2.4 million tonnes of solid waste. While Morocco is considering legislation on a host of environmental measures from wetlands protection to mandating biodegradable plastic bags, changes are already afoot in communities nationwide. Everywhere you travel in the country, you’ll notice minor modifications that collec- tively make major savings in scarce resources – and you’re invited to participate. Solar water heaters provide instant hot water for showers in the afternoon and evening, so taking showers at those times saves water that might otherwise be wasted by running the tap while gas heaters warm up. Reforestation programs are helping prevent erosion, and you can help by staying on marked mountain paths and support- ing local NGO reforestation initiatives. Organic gardens provide fresh ingredients for meals, reducing the dependence on food transported over long distances – and ordering local, seasonal specialities provides posi- tive reinforcement for local food sourcing. Morocco’s Green Key program also certifies hotels and guesthouses that institute a range of resource- conserving measures, from low-flow toilets to environmentally friendly cleaning products, although it has received criticism from some quarters for granting certificates to hotels with distinctly high-impact facilities like swimming pools. Add these traditional, national and local resource-saving practices to- gether, and Morocco is poised not only to make the switch to sustainable tourism, but to show Europe how it’s done.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Survival Guide DIRECTORY A–Z. . . . 464 Women Travellers. . . . . . . . 479 Work. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481 Accommodation. . . . . . . . . 464 Customs . TRANSPORT. . . . . . . 482 Regulations. . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467 GETTING THERE . Embassies & . & AWAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482 Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467 Entering Morocco. . . . . . . .482 Gay & Lesbian . Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482 Travellers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467 Land. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482 Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 Sea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 483 Internet Access. . . . . . . . . . 468 GETTING AROUND. . . . . . . 485 Language Courses. . . . . . . 468 Bicycle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485 Legal Matters . . . . . . . . . . . 468 Bus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485 Maps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 469 Car & Motorcycle. . . . . . . . 487 Money. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 469 Local Transport. . . . . . . . . . 489 Opening Hours. . . . . . . . . . 470 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490 Photography. . . . . . . . . . . . 471 Train. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490 Post. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471 Tram. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491 Public Holidays. . . . . . . . . . 472 Safe Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473 HEALTH. . . . . . . . . . . 492 Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475 Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 BEFORE YOU GO. . . . . . . . . 492 Toilets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 IN MOROCCO. . . . . . . . . . . . 493 Tourist . Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 LANGUAGE . . . . . . . . 497 Travellers with . Disabilities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477 MOROCCAN ARABIC. . . . . 497 Visas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477 BERBER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 501 Volunteering. . . . . . . . . . . . 479 GLOSSARY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502

46 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Directory A–Z Accommodation Discounts Many hotels will offer sometimes in tourist ‘promotional discounts’ from complexes. A wide range of accommoda- their advertised rates, especially ¨¨Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) tion options is available in in large resorts like Agadir or offers good rental options in Morocco. during the low season (May to many Moroccan cities. October). It is always worth ask- The rates quoted here are ing when you book. Camping for high season (November Seasons Accommodation is to April) weekends and, un- often scarce during Easter week ¨¨You can camp anywhere less otherwise mentioned, and August, popular times for in Morocco if you have exclude breakfast. Reviews Spanish and French tourists permission from the site’s are ordered by preference, to visit Morocco. Another busy owner. and price ranges are based time, particularly in Marrakesh, is ¨¨There are many official on the cost of a double room: Christmas and New Year. campsites. Budget (€) Up to Dh400 Solo travellers Outside the cities, ¨¨Most official sites have Midrange (€€) Dh400 to Dh800 the rates in many places are per water and electricity; some Top end (€€€) More than person rather than per room, have a small restaurant, Dh800 and single occupancy of rooms grocery store and even a Exceptions to these price is rarely a problem. However, in swimming pool. ranges are Casablanca, riads, the limited accommodation ¨¨Most of the bigger cities Essaouira, Fez, Marrakesh, means that discounts on single have campsites, although Rabat and Tangier. For these occupancy are fairly minimal. they’re often some way from places, the following price the centre. ranges apply: Apartments ¨¨Such sites are sometimes Budget (€) Up to Dh600 worth the extra effort to get Midrange (€€) Dh600 to ¨¨If travelling in a small group to, but often they consist Dh1200 or as a family, consider self- of a barren and stony area Top end (€€€) More than catering options, particularly offering little shade and basic Dh1200 in low season, when prices facilities. In the listings here, the of- can drop substantially. ¨¨Particularly in southern ficial, government-assigned ¨¨Agadir, nearby Taghazout, Morocco, campsites rates (including taxes) are Essaouira, Assilah and the are often brimming with quoted, although these are bigger tourist centres on enormous campervans. intended as a guide only. both coastlines have a fair number of self-catering COSTS apartments and houses, ¨¨At official sites you’ll pay around Dh10 to Dh20 per BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE person, plus Dh10 to Dh20 to pitch a tent and about Dh10 For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet to Dh15 for small vehicles. authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. ¨¨Parking a campervan You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommen- or caravan typically costs dations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can around Dh20 to Dh30, book online. although this can rise as high as Dh45.

465 PRACTICALITIES Directory A–Z Accommodat ion Weights & Measures ¨¨Morocco uses the metric system. Newspapers & Websites ¨¨For Moroccan newspapers online, visit www.onlinenewspapers.com/morocco.htm. ¨¨French-language dailies include the semi-official Le Matin (www.lematin.ma), and the opposition Libération (www.libe.ma), L’Opinion (www.lopinion.ma) and Al-Bayane. ¨¨Major European, British and American papers (or their foreign editions) and magazines are available in most of the main cities. ¨¨English-language websites include the Morocco Board News Service (www. moroccoboard.com), Morocco Newsline (www.morocconewsline.com) and Agence Maghreb Arabe Presse (www.map.ma/en). Maghrebarts (www.maghrebarts.ma) has arts and media coverage. Radio ¨¨Most Moroccan radio stations broadcast in Arabic or French on AM or FM. ¨¨Broadcasting across North Africa and Europe from Tangier, you can listen to the Maghrebi affairs and music station Médi 1 via radio (105.3MHz in Marrakesh and 95.3 or 101 in Tangier) and www.medi1.com. ¨¨State-run SNRT (www.snrt.ma) has regional and national stations, including the urban Chaine Inter, available via radio (98.8MHz in Marrakesh and 90MHz in Casablanca) and www.chaineinter.ma. Television & DVD ¨¨Satellite dishes are everywhere, and pick up foreign stations. ¨¨The major TV station, 2M, is partly state-owned and broadcasts in languages including Arabic and French via satellite, analogue and www.2m.ma. ¨¨Médi 1’s news and current-affairs broadcasts are available via satellite and www. medi1tv.com. ¨¨Moroccan DVDs share region 5 with much of Africa and Asia (North America is region 1, Europe is mostly region 2 and Australia is region 4). ¨¨Electricity generally costs ¨¨Gîtes have rudimentary ¨¨If you are trekking in the another Dh10 to Dh15. bathrooms and sometimes High Atlas or travelling off ¨¨A hot shower is about Dh5 hot showers. the beaten track elsewhere, to Dh10. ¨¨Larger than gîtes, you may be offered ¨¨Many campsites have mountain refuges offer accommodation in village basic rooms or self-catering Swiss-chalet-style homes. apartments. accommodation. ¨¨Many homestays won’t ¨¨Accommodation at have running water or Gîtes d’Étape, refuges is usually in electricity, but you’ll find Homestays & dormitories with communal them big on warmth and Refuges showers, and often includes hospitality. a lively communal dining/ ¨¨You should be prepared ¨¨Gîtes d’étape are homes or living room. to pay what you would at hostels, often belonging to gîtes d’étape or mountain mountain guides, which offer ¨¨Club Alpin Français refuges. basic accommodation (often (CAF; %0522 27 00 90; http:// just a mattress on the floor) cafmaroc2011.ffcam.fr; 50 Blvd Hostels around popular trekking Moulay Abderrahman, Quartier routes in the Atlas and Rif Beauséjour, Casablanca) runs Part of Hostelling Interna- Mountains. refuges in the High Atlas. tional, Fédération Royale Marocaine des Auberges

466 Directory A–Z C us toms R eg u l at ions Moroccan salons, lined with Riads and dars Although the de Jeunes (%0522 47 09 52; banks of seats and cushions, term riad is often used gener- http://tinyurl.com/373omvl) where you can sleep for a ically, a riad proper is a house has reliable youth hostels in similar price. built around a garden with trees. Casablanca, Fez, Marrakesh, You’ll also come across plenty Meknès, Ouarzazate and MIDRANGE of dars (traditional townhouses Rabat. ¨¨Midrange hotels in with internal courtyards). ¨¨If you’re travelling alone, Morocco are generally of a Kasbahs Often functioning as hostels are among the high standard. hotels, kasbahs (old citadels) cheapest places to stay ¨¨Options range from hotels are found in tourist centres in (Dh30 to Dh60 a night), but offering Western-style central and southern Morocco. many are inconveniently rooms, which are modern Rooms in kasbahs are small and located. if a little soulless, to riads dark, due to the nature of the ¨¨Some offer kitchens, and maisons d’hôtes (small building, but are lovely and cool family rooms and breakfast. hotels), which capture the in summer. ¨¨If looking for a budget essence of Moroccan style Booking Most riads operate hostel, beware of individuals’ with comfort and character. on advance bookings, and it’s houses converted in the ¨¨In this price range, you worth planning ahead, as most dead of night without the should expect an en-suite only have a handful of rooms appropriate licences. room with shower. and can fill quickly. Advance ¨¨In cheaper areas such booking often means that some- Hotels as the south, you may find one from the riad will be sent midrange standards at to meet you outside the medina ¨¨You’ll need your passport budget prices. when you arrive: labyrinthine number (and entry-stamp streets conspire against find- number) when filling in a TOP END ing the front door on your first hotel register. ¨¨Hotels in this bracket are attempt. ¨¨Some hotels in more similar to midrange places Rates Room rates are generally isolated regions offer half- but with more luxurious comparable to four- or five-star board (demi-pension), which levels of comfort and design. hotels. Many riads list their means breakfast and dinner ¨¨In resorts such as Agadir, online rates in euros, rather are included, or full-board many top-end hotels are than dirham, at exchange rates (pension), also including self-contained holiday favourable to themselves, so lunch. This can be a good complexes, offering features always double check the prices deal. such as golf courses, when booking. nightclubs and multiple BUDGET restaurants. Customs ¨¨You’ll find cheap, Regulations unclassified (without a star Riads, Dars & rating) or one-star hotels Kasbahs Importing or exporting clustered in the medinas of dirham is forbidden, the bigger cities. For many guests, the chance although checks are rare ¨¨Some are bright and to stay in a converted tradi- so don’t worry about the spotless; others haven’t seen tional house is a major draw- loose change you may have a mop for years. card of a trip to Morocco. at the end of a drink. ¨¨Cheaper prices usually These midrange and top-end mean shared washing options are the type of ac- Forbidden items include facilities and squat toilets. commodation that the term ‘any immoral items liable to ¨¨Many budget hotels ‘boutique hotel’ could have cause a breach of the peace’, don’t supply soap in the been invented for, and no two such as ‘books, printed bathrooms, so bring a bar or are alike. Service tends to be matter, audio and video some gel. personal, with many places cassettes’. ¨¨Occasionally there’s a noted for their food as much gas-heated shower, for which as their lodgings. Duty-free allowances are you’ll pay an extra Dh5 to Locations Marrakesh is the most as follows: Dh10. famous destination for riads ¨¨up to 200 cigarettes, or 25 ¨¨Where there is no hot (there are several hundred); Fez, cigars, or 250g of tobacco water at all, head for the local Meknès, Essaouira and Rabat are ¨¨1L of alcoholic drink hammam. also noteworthy. With their popu- ¨¨150ml of perfume ¨¨Many cheap hotels in the larity seemingly unassailable, ¨¨presents or souvenirs south offer a mattress on the you can increasingly find riads in worth up to Dh2000 roof terrace (Dh25 to Dh30); the most unexpected corners of others also have traditional the country.

467 Electricity lates in Agadir, Casablanca, Fez, embassy in Paris is responsible Directory A–Z E l ec t rici t y Marrakesh, Rabat and Tangier. for Morocco. The Canadian em- 127V/220V/50Hz German Embassy (Map bassy in Rabat provides consular p180; %0537 21 86 00; www. assistance to Australians. Embassies & rabat.diplo.de; 7 Rue Madnine) Ireland (www.dfa.ie/embassies/ Consulates Also has a consulate in Rabat irish-embassies-abroad/europe/ and honorary consulates in portugal) The Irish embassy in The Moroccan Ministry of Agadir and Casablanca. Lisbon is responsible for Mo- Foreign Affairs and Coop- rocco. Has honorary consulates eration (www.diplomatie.ma/ Mauritanian Embassy in Agadir and Casablanca. en) has a list of embassies (%0537 65 66 78; www. New Zealand (www.nzembassy. and consulates in Morocco. mauritania.mr/fr; 6 Rue Thami com/spain) The New Zealand Most embassies and diplo- Lamdaouar, Soussi) embassy in Madrid is responsible matic representation are in Spanish Embassy (Map for Morocco. Rabat, and open from about p174; %0537 63 39 00; www. 9am until noon, Monday to exteriores.gob.es/embajadas/ Gay & Lesbian Friday. Rabat embassies rabat; Ave Annasr) Also has Travellers include the following: consulates-general in Agadir, Algerian Embassy (Map Casablanca, Larache, Nador, ¨¨Homosexual acts p174; %0537 76 54 74; http:// Rabat, Tangier and Tetouan. (including kissing) are illegal consulatalgerie-casablanca. UK Embassy (Map p174; in Morocco, and carry a com; 46-48 Ave Tariq ibn Zayid) %0537 23 86 00; www.gov.uk/ potential jail term of up to Also has a consulate-general government/world/organisa- three years and/or a fine. in Casablanca and consulate in tions/british-embassy-rabat; ¨¨In practice, although not Oujda. 17 Blvd de la Tour Hassan) openly admitted or shown, Canadian Embassy (%0537 Also has honorary consulates in sex between men is not 68 74 00; www.rabat.gc.ca; 13 Agadir, Marrakesh and Tangier. uncommon, even if few Rue Jaafar as-Sadiq, Agdal) US Embassy (Map p174; actively self-identify as gay. Dutch Embassy (Map p174; %0537 76 22 65; http://rabat. ¨¨Platonic affection is freely %0537 21 96 00; http:// usembassy.gov; 2 Ave de shown among Moroccans, marokko.nlambassade.org; Mohammed El Fassi) Also has a more so between men than 40 Rue de Tunis) Also has a consulate-general in Casablanca. women. consulate-general in Casablanca. The following countries do ¨¨For travellers, discretion French Embassy (Map not have embassies in is the key in most places. p174; %0537 68 97 00; www. Morocco: Avoid public displays of ambafrance-ma.org; 3 Rue Sa- Australia (http://tinyurl. affection – aggression hnoun, Agdal) Also has consu- com/248erss) The Australian GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE For the latest travel information log on to the following websites: www.auswaertiges-amt.de German Federal Foreign Office. www.fco.gov.uk/travel UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office. www.minbuza.nl Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs. www.mofa.go.jp Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs. www.safetravel.govt.nz New Zealand Ministry of For- eign Affairs and Trade. www.smartraveller.gov.au Australian Government’s travel advice and consular information. www.travel.state.gov US Department of State’s Bu- reau of Consular Affairs. www.voyage.gc.ca Canadian Consular Services Bu- reau.

Directory A–Z I nsurance468 Extensions If you need to are widely available from towards gay male travellers extend your cover on the road, mobile-phone shops, and is not unheard of. do so before it expires or a more cost around Dh200 for one ¨¨Some towns are more expensive premium may apply. month’s internet access. gay-friendly than others, with Flights Paying for your airline Marrakesh winning the prize, ticket with a credit card often Language Courses followed by Tangier. provides some travel-accident ¨¨There are no dedicated gay insurance, but take note of exclu- There are courses in Arabic – destinations, although ‘gay’ sions. You may be able to reclaim both Modern Standard and bars can be found here and the payment if the operator Moroccan (Darija) – in most there; nightlife in the bigger doesn’t deliver. major towns in Morocco, cities includes something for Online insurance Worldwide with a high concentration in everybody. travel insurance is available at Fez, Rabat and Casablanca, ¨¨The pressures of poverty www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_ where long- and short-term mean many young men services. You can buy, extend and programs are offered. will consider having claim online any time – even if Arabophon (%0535 60 34 sex for money or gifts. you’re already on the road. 75; www.arabicstudy.com; half- Exploitative relationships Purchase Buy travel insurance day/3-day course Dh500/1500; form an unpleasant but real as early as possible. Buying 4-week intensive course dimension of the Moroccan just before you leave home may Dh4360) Intensive Moroccan gay scene. mean you’re not covered for and Modern Standard Arabic ¨¨Lesbians shouldn’t delays to your flight caused by courses. Shorter courses are encounter any problems, strike action that began, or was aimed at travellers: the half-day though it’s commonly threatened, before you took out Curious Explorer and three-day believed by Moroccans that the insurance. Serious Explorer. There are also there are no lesbians in their courses in Tamazight Berber. country. Internet Access Lessons are offered in English, French and Spanish. Websites ¨¨Moroccan internet cafes Jeunesse des Chantiers are common, efficient Marocains (http://perso. Useful websites that give the and cheap (Dh3 to Dh10 menara.ma/youthcamps) Offers low-down on local laws and per hour), usually with language and cultural-immersion attitudes to homosexuality reasonable connection programs in Marrakesh. include the following: speeds. Kif Kif (www.kifkifgroup.org/) ¨¨Two irritants for many Legal Matters Moroccan civil society organisa- travellers are the widespread tion promoting lesbian, gay, French and Arabic Drugs Moroccan law (p473) bisexual and transsexual rights. (nonqwerty) keyboards, and prohibits the possession, offer, Gay & Lesbian Arab Soci- Moroccan men’s common sale, purchase, distribution ety (www.glas.org) Resources use of internet cafes to view and transportation of cannabis on homosexuality in the Arab pornographic websites and (known locally as kif). The penal- world. similar. ties for possessing even small Global Gayz (www.global- ¨¨The internet icon (i) amounts of drugs are severe, and gayz.com) A useful resource is used for reviews where include up to 10 years’ impris- with good links on Morocco. accommodation options onment, with no remission for offer a computer with good behaviour, heavy fines and Insurance internet for guest use. confiscation of your vehicle or ¨¨The wi-fi icon (W) indicates vessel. Acquittals in drug cases A travel-insurance policy that a business has a are rare. to cover theft, loss and, in wireless network. Help & advice If you get into particular, medical problems ¨¨Wi-fi is widely available trouble, your first call should is strongly recommended for in midrange and top-end be to your embassy or consu- all visitors to Morocco. accommodation and in many late; remember that it’s not Activities Some policies specifi- of the better budget options. unknown for local police to be cally exclude ‘dangerous activi- It is slowly becoming more in on scams. The London-based ties’, which can include scuba widespread in destinations Fair Trials International diving, motorcycling, skiing and that host lots of foreigners. (FTI;%4420-7762 6400; www. even trekking, so ensure your ¨¨If you’re bringing a laptop, fairtrials.net) provides legal policy covers these if needed. check the power-supply assistance and advocacy to indi- Driving Make sure you have ad- voltage and bring a universal viduals facing criminal charges in equate travel medical insurance adapter. USB modems a foreign country. and any relevant car insurance if you’re driving.

469 Police If you get arrested by the Soviet survey maps Société Générale and Directory A–Z M aps Moroccan police, you won’t have of Morocco, with scales Attijariwafa Bank all offer much of a legal leg to stand on. ranging from 1:100,000 to reliable service. It’s unlikely that any interpreter 1:1,000,000, are available on- ¨¨ATMs sometimes run dry on hand will be of sufficient line and at good map shops on weekends. standard to translate an accurate worldwide. They often have ¨¨The amount of money statement that will, nonetheless, to be ordered and can take you can withdraw from an play a vital part in subsequent up to six weeks to arrive. ATM generally depends on judicial proceedings. According the conditions attached to to some human-rights groups, Money your card; many machines physical abuse while in custody will dispense no more than is not unknown. ¨¨The Moroccan currency Dh2000 at a time. is the dirham (Dh), which is Maps divided into 100 centimes. Black Market ¨¨You will find notes in Few decent maps of Morocco denominations of Dh20, The easy convertibility of the are available in the country Dh50, Dh100 and Dh200. dirham leaves little room for itself, so get one before leav- ¨¨Coins come in a black market, but you’ll find ing home. denominations of Dh1, Dh2, people in the streets asking if Dh5 and Dh10, as well as, you want to exchange money, Michelin’s No 742 (former- less frequently, 10, 20 and 50 especially in Tangier, Casa- ly No 959) map of Morocco is centimes. blanca and on the borders of arguably the best. It has the ¨¨Break big notes whenever (and just inside) the enclaves following features: possible. Moroccans guard of Ceuta and Melilla. Avoid ¨¨The 1:4,000,000 scale their small change jealously these characters; there’s no map of the whole country (taxi drivers never seem to monetary benefit to be had includes the disputed have any), and so should you. from such transactions and Western Sahara. The Dh20 note is the most scams are common. ¨¨Features a 1:1,000,000 useful note in your wallet. enlargement of Morocco. ¨¨The dirham is a restricted Cash ¨¨Features 1:600,000 currency, meaning that it enlargements of Marrakesh cannot be taken out of the You’ll need to carry some and the High Atlas, Middle country and is not available cash with you. Some riads Atlas and Fez areas. abroad. accept payment in euros, ¨¨Shows sites of weekly ¨¨The dirham is fairly stable, but often at less preferential markets, kasbahs with no major fluctuations in rates than you can get at the and marabouts (holy exchange rates. bank. mausoleums of local saints). ¨¨Euros, US dollars and ¨¨Keep a handful of small ¨¨Notes particularly scenic British pounds are the most denomination notes in your roads. easily exchanged currencies. wallet, or just in a pocket (but ¨¨Available in major never a back pocket), for day- Moroccan cities. ATMs to-day transactions. The GeoCenter World Map ¨¨Put the rest in a money belt Morocco is preferred by ¨¨ATMs (guichets or another safe place. many and has similar, often automatiques) are the ¨¨If you’re travelling in out-of- clearer, detail. Features: easiest way to access your the-way places, make sure ¨¨Shows Morocco at a money in Morocco. you have enough cash to handy 1:800,000 scale ¨¨A common sight even in last until you get to a decent- (and the Western Sahara at the smallest towns, virtually sized town. 1:2,500,000). all accept Visa, MasterCard, ¨¨Keep an emergency ¨¨Occasionally available in Electron, Cirrus, Maestro and stash of euros in small Morocco. InterBank cards. Most banks denominations. Additionally, several maps charge you for withdrawing ¨¨The endless supply of include Morocco as part money from foreign cash small coins may be annoying, of northwestern Africa. An machines; check before but they’re handy for taxis, overlanding classic, Miche- travelling. tips, guides and beggars. lin’s No 741 (formerly Nos ¨¨BMCE (Banque Marocaine 953 and 153) map covers all du Commerce Extérieur), Credit Cards of west Africa and most of Crédit du Maroc, Banque the Sahara. It has a scale of Populaire, BMCI (Banque ¨¨Major credit cards are 1:4,000,000. Marocaine pour le widely accepted in the main Commerce et l’Industrie), tourist centres. ¨¨They often attract a surcharge of around 5% from Moroccan businesses.

470 Directory A–Z O penin g H ours ¨¨The main credit cards are most Moroccan banks and are the most useful, and MasterCard and Visa; if you bureaux de change. have efficient replacement plan to rely on plastic cards, policies. the best bet is to take one CEUTA & MELILLA ¨¨Keeping a record of the of each. ¨¨In the Spanish enclaves cheque numbers and those ¨¨Most large bank branches of Ceuta and Melilla the you have used is vital when will give you cash advances currency is the euro. it comes to replacing lost on Visa and MasterCard. ¨¨The Moroccan banks travellers cheques. Take your passport with on the enclaves’ borders ¨¨Make sure you keep this you. exchange cash only. record separate from the ¨¨Banks in Ceuta and Melilla cheques themselves. Moneychangers deal in dirham, but at rates ¨¨Almost all banks charge inferior to those offered in commission on travellers ¨¨Any amount of foreign Morocco. cheques. currency may be brought ¨¨Normally the commission into the country. Tipping is around Dh10 to Dh20 ¨¨It is illegal to import and per cheque; check before export dirham. ¨¨Tipping is an integral part changing. ¨¨Banks and exchange of Moroccan life; almost bureaus change most any service can warrant Opening Hours currencies, but Australian, a tip. You’ll hear the word Canadian and New Zealand baksheesh. Although Although a Muslim country, dollars are often not frequently taken to mean for business purposes Mo- accepted. You’ll occasionally a bribe, it generally means rocco follows the Monday to be asked for ID when money paid for a service Friday working week. Friday changing money. rendered, and can include is the main prayer day, how- ¨¨Moroccan banking tipping. ever, so many businesses services are reasonably ¨¨Don’t be railroaded, but take an extended lunch break quick and efficient. the judicious distribution of on Friday afternoon. During ¨¨Rates do not vary much a few dirham for a service Ramadan the rhythm of the from bank to bank, although willingly rendered can make country changes, and office it doesn’t hurt to look your life a lot easier. hours shift to around 10am around. ¨¨Bear in mind that unskilled to 3pm or 4pm. ¨¨Travellers cheques are workers in Morocco earn less becoming harder to change. than Dh100 per day. Hours often vary between If banks accept them, you’ll medinas and villes nouvelles need to take your passport Travellers Cheques (new towns): most busi- along to change them (plus nesses close on Sundays the travellers cheque receipt ¨¨Travellers cheques are not in villes nouvelles, whereas in some places). recommended in Morocco – those in the medinas usu- ¨¨Hang on to all exchange even large city banks often ally open continuously from receipts. They show you do not accept them. about 9am to 7pm except on changed money legally, ¨¨If you want to carry some Fridays. and you’ll need them to anyway, as a fallback in the convert leftover dirham at event of theft, American Medina souqs and pro- Express (Amex), Visa and duce markets in the villes Thomas Cook cheques nouvelles of the bigger cit- ies tend to wind down on TIPPING IN MOROCCO Thursday afternoon and are usually empty on Friday. SERVICE TIP Business hours are highly Restaurant 10% variable for cafes and snack Cafe Dh2 stands, which can be both Museums guides DH3-5 seasonal and subject to to Porters Dh3-5 the owner’s mood. Public-toilet attendants Dh2-3 Baggage handlers Dh3-5 Souqs in small villages Petrol-pump attendants Dh3-5 start early and generally wind Car-park attendants Dh3-5; Dh10 for overnight parking down before the onset of the afternoon heat. In cities, pharmacies open all night on a rotating basis. All pharmacies should have a list in their window of that week’s night pharmacies.

471 In the main tourist cities, ¨¨A USB memory stick is ¨¨Parcels should not be Directory A–Z P hoto g raphy bureaux de change (foreign- useful for backing up photos, wider, longer or higher than exchange bureaus) often but most internet cafes can 2m; weight limit varies open until 8pm and over the burn you a CD if needed. according to the destination, weekend. ¨¨Kodak and Fuji colour but it’s typically 30kg. negative film (35mm and ¨¨To ship goods home, buy Téléboutiques (private APS), as well as video tapes, a box and a shipping form telephone offices) and in- are readily available in bigger at the post office and take ternet cafes often stay open cities and towns. them to the shop where you late into the night, especially ¨¨They are marginally more purchased your wares. in cities. expensive than in Europe. ¨¨The shopkeeper knows Banks 8.30am to 6.30pm Slide film is more difficult to the product and can wrap Monday to Friday come by. and pack the pieces well with Post offices 8.30am to 4.30pm ¨¨If you buy film in Morocco, newspaper and cardboard. Monday to Friday check expiry dates. ¨¨If you’ve purchased Government offices 8.30am to ¨¨Professional photo labs carpets, the vendor should 6.30pm Monday to Friday offer the most professional have rolled and bound them Restaurants noon to 3pm and processing services. in plastic sacks; if not, return 7pm to 10pm ¨¨Lonely Planet’s Travel and ask them to do so. Bars 4pm till late Photography provides ¨¨Label the outside of the Shops 9am to 12.30pm and comprehensive advice on package in several places 2.30pm to 8pm Monday to taking terrific photos when with a waterproof pen. Saturday (often closed longer at you’re on the road. ¨¨Be very clear about the noon for prayer) destination country; marking Tourist offices 8.30am to noon Post it in French as well as English and 2.30pm to 6.30pm Monday helps. to Thursday, 8.30am to 11.30am ¨¨Offices of Poste Maroc ¨¨Indicate the value of the and 3pm to 6.30pm Friday (www.bam.net.ma) are contents if you like, but you distinguished by a yellow may be charged taxes at the Photography ‘PTT’ sign or the ‘La Poste’ receiving end. logo. ¨¨Don’t seal the box! ¨¨Morocco is a ¨¨Tabacs, the small tobacco Customs officers at the photographer’s dream, and newspaper kiosks post office need to view the but never point your scattered about city centres, contents. camera at anything that’s often sell stamps, and have ¨¨Your packages will be vaguely military or could be shorter queues. weighed and you will be construed as ‘strategic’. This ¨¨The postal system is fairly charged Par Avion (air) includes airports, bridges, reliable, if not terribly fast. freight rates unless you government buildings and ¨¨It takes at least a week for specify that you prefer the members of the police or letters to reach European items shipped by land. armed forces. destinations, and two weeks ¨¨The overland service is ¨¨Hide your camera when to get to Australia and North considerably less expensive going through checkpoints America. but can take three months. in and near the Western ¨¨Sending post from a city ¨¨Valuable speciality items Sahara. normally gives mail a head such as large furniture may ¨¨It is common courtesy to start. involve customs clearance. ask permission before taking ¨¨Worldwide postcards cost ¨¨Shopkeepers should be photographs of people. around Dh13 to send, and able to arrange clearance Urban Moroccans are letters around Dh18. and shipping for you, but generally easygoing about make sure you keep copies of it. Women, older people and Sending Parcels all documentation in case the rural folk often don’t want to goods never arrive. be photographed. Respect ¨¨The parcel office, indicated their right to privacy and by the sign ‘colis postaux’, is Express Mail & don’t take photos. generally in a separate part Couriers ¨¨Memory cards and of the post-office building. batteries for digital cameras ¨¨A 1kg package costs ¨¨There is usually an Express are quite easy to find in around Dh140 to send via Mail Service (EMS), also photography shops in major airmail to the UK, Dh140 known as Poste Rapide, in cities (especially Marrakesh to the USA and Dh240 to the same office as parcel and Casablanca). Australia. post.

472 Directory A–Z P ub l ic H o l idays be charged Dh3.50 for can nationalist manifesto for ¨¨In Morocco the service collection. independence. is run by Chronopost ¨¨An alternative way to Labour Day (1 May) International Maroc (www. receive letters is through Feast of the Throne (30 July) chronopost.ma). Amex (if you are an Amex Commemorates King Moham- ¨¨A 500g package costs client). Amex (www. med VI’s accession to the throne. from Dh320 to send to the americanexpress.com) is UK or Europe, and Dh330 to represented by the travel Allegiance of Oued Eddahab North America or Australia. agency Voyages Schwartz, (14 August) Celebrates the ¨¨Private courier companies, which has branches in ‘return to the fatherland’ of the with offices in the major Casablanca, Tangier and Oued Eddahab region in the far cities, are faster and more Marrakesh. You will usually south, a territory once claimed expensive. International be asked to produce a by Mauritania. couriers with offices passport for identification throughout Morocco include purposes and there may Anniversary of the King’s DHL (www.dhl-ma.com) and be a charge if you’re not an and People’s Revolution (20 TNT (www.tnt.com). Amex client. August) Commemorates the exile of Mohammed V by the Receiving Mail Public Holidays French in 1953. Young People’s Day (21 August) ¨¨Having mail addressed to Banks, post offices and Celebrates the king’s birthday. ‘Poste Restante, La Poste most shops will shut on the Principale’ of any big town main public holidays, al- Anniversary of the Green should not be a problem. though transport still runs. March (6 November) Com- ¨¨Some offices only hang New Year’s Day (1 January) memorates the Green March on to parcels for a couple Independence Manifesto (11 ‘reclaiming’ the Western Sahara of weeks before returning January) Commemorates the in November 1975. them. publication in Fez of the Moroc- Independence Day (18 Novem- ¨¨You’ll need your passport ber) Commemorates independ- to claim mail and you’ll ence from France. MAJOR ISLAMIC HOLIDAYS The rhythms of Islamic practice are tied to the lunar calendar, which is slightly shorter than its Gregorian equivalent, so the Muslim calendar begins around 11 days earlier each year. The following principal religious holidays are celebrated countrywide, with interruptions and changes of time to many local bus services and increased pressure on transport in general. Apart from on the first day of Ramadan, offices and businesses close. Moulid (or Mouloud) an-Nabi celebrates the birth of the Prophet Mohammed. Children are often given presents. Eid al-Fitr (Feast of the Breaking of the Fast), also known as Eid as-Sagheer (the Small Feast), is the end of Ramadan. The four-day celebration begins with a meal of harira (lentil soup), dates and honey cakes, and the country grinds to a halt during this family-focused period. Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice) sees sheep traded for the ritual sacrifices that take place throughout the Muslim world during this three-day celebration. Also known as the Eid al- Kabeer (Grand Feast), it commemorates Ibrahim’s sacrifice. The sheep sacrifice is often a very public event – be prepared for the possibility of seeing blood running in the gutters and sheep heads being flamed over fires in the street. Because the precise date of an Islamic holiday is in doubt until a few days before the start of that month, the dates below are only approximate. HOLIDAY 2014 2015 2016 2017 Moulid an-Nabi 13 Jan 3 Jan 12 Dec 1 Dec Ramadan begins 28 Jun 18 Jun 6 Jun 27 May Eid al-Fitr 27 Jul 17 Jul 5 Jul 25 Jun Eid al-Adha 4 Oct 23 Sep 11 Sep 1 Sep New Year begins 25 Oct 14 Oct 2 Oct 21 Sep

473Directory A–Z S afe Trave l TRAVEL DURING RAMADAN Ramadan Mubarak! (Happy Ramadan!) Ramadan is a lunar month dedicated to sawm (fasting) – from sun-up to sundown, the faithful abstain from food, drink, tobacco and sex to concentrate on spiritual renewal – and zakat (charity). Many businesses operate with limited hours and staff, so try to book accommoda- tion, transport and tours in advance. Call offices to ensure someone will be there. Most restaurants close by day; pack lunches or reserve at tourist restaurants. Stores often close in the afternoon; bargaining is better before thirst is felt in the midday heat. During the lifetime of this edition of the guide, Ramadan falls in the summer, so be prepared for long, hot days. Sunset streets fill with Ramadan finery, light displays, music, tantalising aromas and offers of sweets. After an iftar (fast-breaking meal) of dates, soup or savoury snacks, people gobble sweets until the late-night feast. More visits and sweets follow, then sleep, and an early rise for the sahur (meal before the sunrise). Travellers are exempt from fasting; it’s hard enough at home under controlled condi- tions. To show support, avoid eating, drinking or smoking in public, and grant people privacy at prayer times. Taxi drivers don’t appreciate being flagged down minutes before the evening call to prayer announcing iftar. When a new friend offers you sweets or invites you to a feast, you honour by accept- ing; refusal is crushing. You’re not obliged to return the favour or eat the sweets; recipro- cate the zakat by giving to a local charity perhaps. Safe Travel ¨¨Hashish is sometimes only. New arrivals should referred to as ‘chocolate’, the ignore late-night offers of Morocco is one of the safest Spanish slang, or more often hashish and grass. These African countries for travel- just as ‘something special’ or dealers have a sixth sense for lers. The great majority of ‘shit’, which you will definitely greenness, and won’t miss Moroccans are friendly and be in if you get caught. an opportunity to squeeze honest, but like anywhere ¨¨Although some locals ridiculous amounts of money there are traps for the continue to smoke as a out of frightened people. unwary. recreational pastime, ¨¨Watch out for similar as a tourist you’re more scams in Tetouan, Assilah, Drugs vulnerable. Casablanca and Marrakesh. ¨¨Issaguen (Ketama) and the ¨¨Morocco’s era as a SCAMS & HASSLE Rif Mountains are Morocco’s hippie paradise, riding the The vast majority of Moroc- kif-growing heartland. Marrakesh Express and all can stories of extortion and Issaguen in particular can be that, has been consigned to rip-offs are drug-related. a bag-load of trouble, and is history. Recent legislation and a hard best avoided unless you’re ¨¨Plenty of dope (known government line may have accompanied by a reliable as kif) may be grown in the forced dealers to give up guide. Rif Mountains, but drug their more aggressive tac- busts are common and you tics, but the hassle has not MAJOUN wouldn’t want to investigate disappeared. ¨¨You may occasionally be Moroccan prison conditions offered majoun, a sticky, from the inside. A common ploy is to get pasty mass (not unlike ¨¨Always bear in mind you stoned, force you to buy molasses) made of crushed that it’s illegal to buy, sell a piece of hash the size of marijuana seeds. or consume hashish in a brick and then turn you ¨¨A small ball of majoun can Morocco. If you’re going over to the police (or at least send you reeling (see Paul to smoke kif, don’t do it in threaten to). Once you’ve Bowles’ Their Heads Are public and be extremely purchased hash, or even just Green or Let It Come Down circumspect about who you smoked some, you’re unlikely for descriptions). buy it from. to call the cops, and the hus- ¨¨Anyone with a slight ¨¨If caught, you may be tlers know it. tendency to paranoia when looking at a fine and, in smoking dope should be the worst case, a prison HOT SPOTS aware that this is a common sentence. ¨¨Associating with Tangier’s lowlife is for the initiated

474 Directory A–Z S afe Trave l way) and you’ll soon reach (forbidden), only during reaction among first-time a landmark or exit. Kids will daylight hours of the holy majoun munchers. sometimes offer to direct month of Ramadan is the you for a few dirhams; corner habit seriously eschewed. SPAIN shops are better places to ¨¨This shouldn’t affect Although the Spanish police ask for directions. foreigners too much, have a relaxed attitude to- although women may wish to wards small amounts of can- Plumbing refrain from smoking within nabis for private use, Spanish local homes and be discreet customs will come down ¨¨Patience can be required elsewhere. hard on people entering the when it comes to Moroccan country from Morocco in plumbing. Theft possession of the drug, and ¨¨In cheap, unclassified you could be done for traf- hotels without star ratings, On the whole, theft is not a ficking. trickling cold water and squat huge problem in Morocco. ¨¨If you’re taking a car toilets are common. Travellers can minimise risk across, the chances that it ¨¨Sometimes hot water is by being vigilant (but not will be searched are high. enthusiastically promised, paranoid) in the major cit- ¨¨Never carry parcels or but it may be tepid at best ies and taking some basic drive vehicles across borders and only available at certain precautions. As the saying for other people. times of the day. goes: ‘Trust in God, but tie ¨¨In rural areas, water is your camel.’ Getting Lost sometimes heated by a ¨¨When wandering around wood fire, but this comes the streets, keep the ¨¨A minor irritation is the at an environmental cost. valuables you carry to a ever-changing street names Wood is expensive, water minimum. in Moroccan cities. is often in short supply and ¨¨Keep what you must carry ¨¨For years, there’s been a deforestation is a major around with you well hidden. slow process of replacing old problem in Morocco. ¨¨Be particularly careful French, Spanish and Berber ¨¨In small towns and rural when withdrawing money names with Arabic ones. areas the hammam may be a from ATMs. ¨¨The result so far is that, better bet. ¨¨External money pouches depending on whom you attract attention. Neck talk to, what map you use Smoking pouches or moneybelts or which part of the street worn under your clothes you are on, you’re likely to ¨¨Smoking is a national attract less attention. They see up to three different pastime in Morocco and are better places to keep names. nonsmoking restaurants and your money, passport and ¨¨The general Arabic word hotels are rare. other important documents, for street is sharia, or derb in ¨¨This generally affects but keep a small amount medinas (zankat for smaller popular places rather than of everyday cash easily ones). top-end restaurants and accessible to avoid having to ¨¨The French avenue, hotels, where you may find flash your stash. boulevard and rue are still nonsmoking areas. ¨¨If you prefer to keep things common. In the north and ¨¨Most popular eateries and in your room (preferably far south you’ll still find the cafes have outdoor seating, locked inside your suitcase), Spanish calle and avenida. so the problem is reduced. nine times out of 10 you’ll ¨¨In some cases the Arabic ¨¨Only the very top-end have no trouble. seems to have gained the hotels and some riads have a ¨¨Rooms in top-end hotels upper hand. This is reflected nonsmoking policy. often have safes. in listings here, in which ¨¨Other hotels sometimes some streets appear as WOMEN have a safe at reception, sharia or zankat if local usage ¨¨In Muslim countries, where you could stow justifies it. it is often considered valuables such as a camera. unacceptable for women ¨¨Leaving anything in a car, MEDINAS to smoke. This is a cultural even out of sight, is asking for ¨¨Street names won’t help rather than religious dictate. trouble. much in the labyrinthine ¨¨Particularly outside the ¨¨In the large cities, notably medinas, although in theory big cities, you’ll seldom see Casablanca, there are a compass might. women smokers. some desperate people, ¨¨If you feel you’re getting ¨¨Although most religious and physical attacks on lost, stick to the main paths leaders condemn smoking, (which generally have a fair like drinking, as haram flow of people going either

475 foreigners occasionally ¨¨Set some parameters from being hassled by other Directory A–Z Te l ephone occur. on what you expect to see would-be guides. ¨¨Treat the medinas with and the number of shops particular caution at night. you’re taken to. If you don’t DRIVING & TRANSPORT ¨¨The medinas in Marrakesh, want a shopping expedition ¨¨Drivers should note that Casablanca and Tangier have included in your tour, make motorised hustlers operate a particular reputation for this clear beforehand. on the approach roads to petty theft. A common tactic ¨¨Unofficial guides charge Fez and Marrakesh. These is for one person to distract around Dh50 to Dh100 per motorcycle nuisances you while another cleans out day. Rates should always be are keen to find you your pockets. per guide, not per person. accommodation and so on, ¨¨A few dirham will suffice and can be just as persistent Touts, Guides & if you want to be guided to as their counterparts on foot. Hustlers a specific location (like a ¨¨Travellers disembarking medina exit). from (and embarking on) the Morocco’s notorious hustlers ¨¨Whatever you give, you’ll ferry in Tangier may receive and faux guides (unofficial often get the ‘you can’t some hassle from touts and guides) remain an unavoid- possibly be serious’ look. The hustlers. able part of the Moroccan best reply is the ‘I’ve just paid ¨¨Arriving by train in cities experience. you well over the odds’ look. like Fez and Marrakesh, you ¨¨Brigades touristiques ¨¨Maintain your good may run into ‘students’ or (tourist police) were set up in humour and, after a couple similar, with the uncanny the principal tourist centres, of days in a place, the hassle knowledge that your and anyone suspected tends to lessen considerably. preferred hotel is closed or of trying to operate as an ¨¨Official guides can be full, but they just happen to unofficial guide could face engaged through tourist know this great little place… jail and/or a huge fine. This offices and some hotels at has greatly reduced, but not the fixed price of around Telephone eliminated, the problem. Dh250/300 per day (plus ¨¨Hustlers are often tip) for a local/national guide. ¨¨Within Morocco, always desperate to make a living, ¨¨It’s well worth taking a dial the local four-digit area and they can be persistent guide when exploring Fez code even if you are dialling and sometimes unpleasant. and Marrakesh medinas. from the same town or code ¨¨You’ll generally find The guide can help you find area. them hanging around the interesting sights and shops ¨¨You can make calls from entrances to the big cities’ in the melee, stop you from téléboutiques (private medinas, and outside bus, getting lost and save you train and ferry stations. ¨¨Having a siege mentality THANKS BUT NO THANKS would be an overreaction. Indeed, when arriving in Faux-guides abound in tourist hot-spots, hustling to a place for the first time, ‘help’ you and earn some commission from souvenir you might benefit from the shops. To avoid being hounded to within an inch of your services of a guide, official or life in the medina, and to help prevent nervous break- otherwise. downs and embarrassing incidents of ‘medina rage’, the ¨¨Although high following are useful tactics: unemployment rates drive the numbers of faux ¨¨Politely decline all offers of help you don’t want, and guides, not all are complete exchange a few good-humoured remarks (preferably imposters. Many are very in Arabic), but don’t shake hands or get involved in any experienced and speak half a lengthy conversation. dozen languages. ¨¨Sometimes their main ¨¨Give the impression that you know exactly where interest is the commission you’re going, or explain that you employed a guide on gained from certain hotels or your first day and now you’d like to explore on your own. on articles sold to you in the souqs. ¨¨Wear dark sunglasses and retreat to a cafe, restaurant or taxi if you’re beginning to lose your cool. DEALING WITH GUIDES ¨¨Agree a price before ¨¨In extreme situations, use the word ‘police’ and look setting off on a tour. like you mean it.

Directory A–Z Time476 ¨¨Coverage is excellent, there is no time change between telephone offices) and public apart from in the mountains the countries. payphones. and desert. Local attitudes Time is some- ¨¨Attendants at ¨¨If your mobile phone is thing that most Moroccans seem téléboutiques will usually unlocked, buying a prepaid to have plenty of; they’re not in change small notes into mobile SIM card (around nearly as much of a hurry to get coins. Dh20) will likely be cheaper things done as most Westerners. ¨¨Most payphones are card- than using your phone on Rather than getting frustrated operated. roaming. by this, learn to go with the flow ¨¨You can buy télécartes ¨¨Domestic calls cost a little. (phonecards) at tabacs and from Dh1.20 per minute, téléboutiques. international calls from Toilets ¨¨Payphones have easy-to- Dh2.50 per minute. follow instructions. ¨¨Calls are cheaper between ¨¨Flush toilets are a luxury ¨¨Calling from a hotel 8am and 8pm. in a country struggling with normally doubles the cost of ¨¨You need to show a water shortages. Outside your call. passport or other form of midrange and top-end hotels ¨¨Moroccan landline identification when buying a and restaurants, toilets are numbers start with 05. SIM card. mostly of the squat variety. ¨¨Téléboutiques, news- ¨¨Squat toilets feature a tap, International Calls stands and grocery stores hose or container of water sell scratch cards for topping for sluicing – the idea being ¨¨International calling up your credit. Look out for to wash yourself (with your cards are available from special offers for extra credit. left hand) after performing. telecommunication shops ¨¨Moroccan mobile numbers ¨¨There’s often no toilet such as Méditel. start with 06. paper (papier hygiénique) so ¨¨If you can find a reasonable keep a supply with you. internet connection, a Skype Time ¨¨Don’t throw the paper into call will likely be cheaper. the toilet as the plumbing is Computers in internet cafes Standard Moroccan time is often dodgy; instead discard normally have headsets. on GMT/UTC. it in the bin provided. ¨¨Méditel’s Dawlia card Daylight saving Daylight saving ¨¨Women who have their offers rates starting at runs from the end of March to period will need to take along Dh1.75 per minute. To use the the end of October. The excep- a plastic bag for disposing of Dawlia card, call the 10-digit tion is during Ramadan, when used tampons and pads. card number prefixed with Morocco reverts to GMT, but it ¨¨Public toilets are rare 133, then type in the four- does go back again to daylight outside the major cities. digit PIN number and follow saving afterwards. Daylight ¨¨If you find a public toilet, the voice prompts. saving almost always causes you’ll need to bring a tip for ¨¨France, Spain and Italy confusion in Morocco; watch the attendant, stout-soled are the cheapest countries out for ‘city time’ and ‘medina shoes, and very often a nose to call, and rates are lower time’ – many people in medinas clip. between 8pm and 8am, at don’t bother to change their weekends and on public clocks. Tourist holidays. Spain If you’re travelling to/ Information from Spain (including Ceuta and Mobile Phones Melilla), note that Morocco’s Cities and larger towns have clocks run one hour behind tourist offices, which are ¨¨Morocco has three GSM Spain’s for half the year except normally repositories of mobile-phone networks: during daylight saving, when brochures run by uninformed Méditel (www.meditelecom. staff and, as such, usually ma), Maroc Telecom (www. best avoided. Often the re- iam.ma) and Inwi (www.inwi. ceptionist in your hotel or ma). another local will be more helpful than such bureaus. USEFUL NUMBERS The best tourist offices are found in smaller destinations Morocco country code %212 that are trying to promote International access code from Morocco %00 themselves. Directory enquiries %160 Spain country code (including Melilla & Ceuta) %34

477 DIFFERENCES FROM STANDARD MOROCCAN TIME COUNTRY CAPITAL CITY DIFFERENCE FROM MOROCCO Directory A–Z Trave l l ers wi t h D isabi l i t ies Australia Canberra +11hr Canada Ottawa -5hr France Paris +1hr Germany Berlin +1hr Japan Tokyo +9hr Netherlands Amsterdam +1hr New Zealand Wellington +13hr Spain Madrid +1hr UK London 0hr USA Washington DC -5hr L’Office National Maro- signs and talking pedestrian months beyond your date cain du Tourisme (ONMT; crossings are nonexistent. of entry. www.visitmorocco.com) The ¨¨Nationals of Israel and Moroccan National Tourist Office Organisations many sub-Saharan African runs most tourist offices. countries (including South Organisations that dissemi- Africa) must apply in Travellers with nate information, advice and advance for a three-month Disabilities assistance on world travel for visa (single/double entry the mobility impaired include about US$30/50). Morocco has few facilities the following: ¨¨Applications are normally for the disabled, but the Access-able Travel processed in 48 hours. country is not necessarily Source (www.access-able. ¨¨You need three passport out of bounds for travellers com) An information provider for photos. with a physical disability and travellers with mobility problems. ¨¨In Morocco’s a sense of adventure. Some Apparleyzed (www.ap- neighbouring countries, factors to be aware of: parleyzed.com) For paraplegic there is a Moroccan ¨¨The awkward nature of and quadriplegic people and embassy in Madrid (Spain) narrow medina streets and others with spinal-cord injuries, and consulates-general rutted pavements can make featuring travel information. in locations including mobility challenging at times Disabled Travelers Guide Algeciras; an embassy in even for the able-bodied. (www.disabledtravelersguide. Nouakchott (Mauritania) ¨¨Not all hotels (almost none com) A general guide for travel- and a consulate-general in of the cheaper ones) have lers with disabilities. Nouâdhibou; and diplomatic lifts, so booking ground-floor Mobility International missions in Algeria including hotel rooms ahead of time is USA (MIUSA; www.miusa. an embassy in Algiers. essential. org) Promoting the inclusion ¨¨Further information, ¨¨Only a handful of the very of people with disabilities in including a list of Morocco’s top-end hotels have rooms international programs, with a diplomatic missions, designed for the disabled. page of air-travel tips. is available from the ¨¨Travelling by car is Society for Accessible Moroccan Ministry of probably the best transport, Travel & Hospitality (SATH; Foreign Affairs and though you’ll be able to www.sath.org) Has news, tips Cooperation (www. get assistance in bus and and members’ articles and blogs. diplomatie.ma/en). train stations (a tip will be ¨¨As visa requirements required). Visas change, it’s a good idea to ¨¨Many tour operators check with the Moroccan can tailor trips to suit your ¨¨Most visitors to Morocco mission in your country or requirements. do not require a visa and a reputable travel agency ¨¨Vision- or hearing-impaired are allowed to remain in the before travelling. travellers are poorly catered country for 90 days on entry. for. Hearing loops, Braille ¨¨In all cases, your passport Visa Extensions must be valid for at least six ¨¨Most travellers requiring a visa extension find it easiest

Directory A–Z V isas478 VISAS FOR NEIGHBOURING COUNTRIES Embassies for the following countries are in Rabat. Algeria ¨¨Diplomatic disputes have kept the Morocco–Algeria border closed since 1994. Periodic bouts of rapprochement raise hopes that it may one day reopen. In the unlikely event this happens during the lifetime of this guidebook, the main border crossing would be between Oujda and Tlemcen in Algeria. ¨¨Visas are required by everyone except nationals of Arab League countries. ¨¨Algeria prefers applicants to apply in their country of residence. ¨¨For more information, check out www.sahara-overland.com and Lonely Planet’s Africa, which covers Algeria. Mauritania ¨¨Everyone, except nationals of Arab League countries, needs a visa to enter Mauritania. ¨¨At the time of writing, Mauritanian visas were not being issued at the border. ¨¨The Mauritanian embassy in Rabat issues 30-day and 90-day visas (Dh380/720). Multiple-entry visas are sometimes available, but purely at the discretion of the consular officer on the day. ¨¨From Monday to Thursday, apply early in the morning and pick up the following day. Get there well before the embassy opens at 9am and be prepared for queues. In the crowd of applicants, there’s often someone organised enough to operate a list of those queuing – if so make sure your name is added, to keep your place in the queue. ¨¨You need two passport photos and a photocopy of your passport. Local touts may approach you offering forms and help filling them in (and pointers to the nearest copy shop), for a small fee. ¨¨For more info see www.sahara-overland.com and Lonely Planet’s West Africa, which covers Mauritania. Spain ¨¨Spain is in the European Union and the Schengen Area. ¨¨The Schengen Area covers 30 European countries, including Spain and all other EU- member countries apart from the UK and the Republic of Ireland. ¨¨Ceuta and Melilla, the two Spanish enclaves in Morocco, have the same visa requirements as mainland Spain. ¨¨Nationals of EU-member countries do not need a visa to enter Spain. ¨¨Nationals of countries including Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, New Zealand and the USA do not need a Schengen visa to cross a Schengen border. ¨¨Your passport will be stamped upon arrival in the zone, and you can then stay for up to 90 days (straight or cumulative) within 180 days. This means, for example, that when you leave the zone at the end of a three-month stay, you are not permitted to re-enter for three months. ¨¨For more information, see Spain’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Cooperation (www.exteriores.gob.es) and Lonely Planet guides, including Mediterranean Europe, which has chapters on Spain and Morocco. to head to mainland Spain, or ¨¨Although doing a visa immigration officers on one of the Spanish enclaves run generally presents re-entry. Travellers have in Morocco, and re-enter few problems other than occasionally come unstuck after a few days. travel costs, it leaves you this way. at the mercy of individual

479 ¨¨A harder alternative is to the port of arrival for up to 10 Programs in Marrakesh include Directory A–Z Vo l un t eerin g apply for a visa extension, days, or possibly repatriated. volunteering at a nursery school issued by the Directorate or orphanage, with accommoda- General of National Security. You may need to prove tion in a homestay organised. ¨¨Residence (a Carte de you’ve been vaccinated Morocco Exchange (www. Sejour) is also available, against cholera if you are ar- moroccoexchange.org) Offers but it is difficult to get and riving from an afflicted zone. short-term student exchange and usually requires proof of travel programs with a focus on employment. Volunteering cross-cultural education through ¨¨Go to the nearest police visiting cities and rural villages. headquarters (Préfecture There are many international Previous custom-made programs de Police) to check what and local organisations that have explored Morocco’s medical documents they require. arrange voluntary work system, the use of the French ¨¨If possible, take a on regional development language, and women’s rights. Moroccan friend to help you projects in Morocco. Peace Corps (www.peace deal with the bureaucrats. corps.gov) Long-established ¨¨In addition to your They generally pay noth- US volunteer scheme with deep passport and three passport ing, sometimes not even pro- roots in Morocco; volunteer photos, the police will likely viding lodging, and are aimed programs lasting two years. require a letter from your at young people looking for Projects Abroad (www. embassy requesting a visa something different to do for projects-abroad.co.uk) The extension on your behalf. a few weeks over summer. UK-based organisation offers ¨¨Applications can take days Moroccan volunteering holidays or weeks, and the different Some of these organisa- from healthcare to working with procedures employed by tions are really summer nomads. different police headquarters camps and international Idealist.org (www.idealist. may hold up proceedings. exchange programs. org) Has volunteering and job opportunities in Morocco. International Health A good starting point is Volunteer Abroad (www. Certificate Lonely Planet’s The Big Trip, volunteerabroad.com/Morocco. a guide to gap years and cfm) A good place to start If you’re coming to Morocco overseas adventures that looking for volunteer places, as from certain parts of Africa includes a chapter on vol- it provides links to organisations and South America where unteering and working over- with Moroccan programs. yellow fever is endemic, you’ll seas, as well as a directory of need to show you’ve been resources. International Cultural vaccinated by producing a Youth Exchange (ICYE; yellow-fever certificate or Organisations www.icye.org) Allows you to international certificate of search for upcoming Moroccan vaccination. International or local or- volunteer opportunities. ganisations that sometimes In practice this is usually have Morocco placements Women Travellers only required if you’ve trav- or camps: elled overland up through Baraka Community Part- ¨¨Prior to marriage, many Mauritania, where yellow nerships (www.barakacom- Moroccan men have little fever is endemic (although munity.com) At the Tijhza Village opportunity to meet and get anecdotal evidence disputes Project in the High Atlas, this to know women, which is a how rigorously the order is organisation needs help with major reason why Western enforced at the land border), schemes such as a reforestation women receive so much or arrived from an African program, repairing and renovat- attention. country on, say, a Royal Air ing poorer homes, supporting ¨¨Not bound by Moroccan Maroc flight. the two schools, establishing a society and Islamic law, preschool and mothers’ group, foreign women are seen as We would recommend, and developing compost toilets excitingly independent and however, that travellers carry and bee-keeping programs. generally available. a certificate if they have been Chantiers Sociaux Ma- ¨¨Increased tourism to in an infected country during rocains (CSM;%0537 26 24 Morocco has also brought the previous month to avoid 00; www.csmmorocco.org) female visitors who are any possible difficulties with Rabat-based NGO engaged in unprepared – or simply immigration. nationwide health, education unaware that cultural mores and development projects, with in Muslim countries are There is always the possi- international volunteers aged different from the West. bility that a traveller without 18 to 35. a legally required, up-to-date Jeunesse des Chantiers certificate will be vaccinated Marocains (http://perso.me and detained in isolation at nara.ma/youthcamps) A non- profit, youth-focused travel and cultural exchange organisation.

480 Directory A–Z W omen Trave l l ers ¨¨More positively, there posher ones, are generally ¨¨Around 70% of Morocco’s are many success stories prostitutes. population is under the age about relationships of mixed of 30, and by the end of their nationality. Male Travelling trip most Western women Companions may think they’ve met every Dress male in this group. ¨¨Women travelling with ¨¨The constant attention ¨¨Dress modestly. Despite male companions are less is impossible to shake some tourists’ attire, hot likely to experience much of off, no matter what tactic pants and cleavage in the the hassle that solo women is employed, and soon Marrakesh medina are never inevitably encounter. becomes wearing. appropriate. It’s best to cover ¨¨It may be better to claim to ¨¨If it’s your first time in your shoulders and knees, be a married couple rather Morocco, the first few days and avoid low-cut tops than just friends (the latter may be something of a altogether. concept is usually greeted shock, but you’ll quickly ¨¨Bikinis attract attention with disbelief). develop a thick skin to deal and sunbathing topless ¨¨If you are a Moroccan with the unwanted looks and on the beach is totally woman (or Moroccan in comments. inappropriate. appearance) travelling with ¨¨The key to not spending ¨¨At the other end of the your non-Moroccan spouse, your trip feeling hassled is to scale, sporting a headscarf it is advisable to carry a copy be wary but not paranoid – or even a jellaba (Moroccan- of your marriage certificate. the low-level harassment style flowing cloak) will earn Premarital sex for Muslims is rarely goes any further. you respect, particularly in forbidden and Morocco has a ¨¨Moroccans are eager the countryside, as well as stern attitude to prostitution. to help any traveller and questions about why you’re ¨¨For the same reason, if there are times when wearing it: Are you Muslim? your partner is thought to being a woman is a distinct Are you Moroccan? Are you be Muslim you may meet advantage, especially when married to a Moroccan? with some uncomfortable lost or in some form of situations at hotel reception distress. Moroccans tend to Havens & Pitfalls desks. This is less of an issue be genuinely concerned for in larger cities. the ‘weaker sex’ and will offer ¨¨If the hassle gets too protection and support if you much, look for the ever- Transport feel you’re in a potentially increasing number of places bad situation. accustomed to having the ¨¨Try to sit next to a woman ¨¨Another benefit is that business of single Moroccan on public transport, unlike male travellers, you’ll women. especially in grands taxis have opportunities to meet ¨¨The upper floor of a where you’re squeezed local women. salon de thé (teahouse), a in closely, and on trains, restaurant or a hotel terrace where you could potentially Attitudes & are also good bets. be trapped inside a Relationships ¨¨Hammams are good male- compartment. free zones for a relaxing ¨¨Many women travel ¨¨The common attitude that reprieve. in grands taxis without a Westerner is a walking ¨¨Hotel and public swimming problems, regardless of visa out of a country where pools usually attract groups where they sit, but you could unemployment is rife can of men, whether they be pay for two seats to get a ride affect women travellers. swimming or drinking at a by yourself in the front. It ¨¨This perception is partly poolside bar. would be considerably more fuelled by Western women ¨¨Be aware that some comfortable. having holiday romances budget hotels double as ¨¨Don’t hitchhike. with local guys. brothels; any cheap hotel ¨¨Bored young men may above a popular locals’ bar is Safety Precautions have little to lose by wooing a likely contender. someone who can offer them ¨¨If you want an alcoholic Crimes against women re- an opportunity in another drink, head to a large hotel main extremely rare. More country, or a sexual liaison rather than braving a bar, common is verbal abuse unavailable from Moroccan as these are generally from both men and women. women. rough, male-dominated In places that have seen ¨¨Some locals could be establishments. Local a large influx of tourists in juggling several relationships women who frequent recent years, problems can at once. watering holes, even the occur. For example, we’ve received reports of physical harassment at music festi- vals in Essaouira.

481 Women travellers should also be used to embarass ¨¨If you secure a position, Directory A–Z W ork take a few sensible precau- would-be harassers. your employer will have to tions: ¨¨A wedding ring may help you get a work permit ¨¨Never compromise help you avoid unwanted and arrange residency, which your safety for the sake of attention – along with a can be a long process. economy. photo of your ‘husband’ and ¨¨There are more ¨¨Don’t wander about ‘child’. The fact that you’re volunteering opportunities. alone at night, as there’s travelling without them will an attitude that all ‘good arouse suspicion, but you Teaching English women’ should be at home could counter this by saying after dark; take a taxi. you’ll be meeting them at There are a few possibilities ¨¨Don’t walk alone in remote your next destination. for teaching English as a areas like isolated beaches, ¨¨Many Moroccan men foreign language in Morocco, forests and sand dunes. aren’t too concerned although they are not ter- ¨¨Wearing dark glasses whether you’re married or ribly well paid. Rabat is one is good for avoiding eye not. They may insist they’re of the best places to start contact, but don’t spend just being friendly, and might looking. your entire Moroccan even invite you home to meet journey hiding behind them. their mother. The best times to try ¨¨Don’t react with are around September and aggression – it could be Work October (the beginning of returned in kind. A good- the academic year) and, to a humoured non merci or la ¨¨With huge unemployment lesser extent, early January. shukran (‘no thank you’) is and a largely out-of-work Having a TEFL (Teaching much more effective than youthful population, English as a Foreign Lan- abuse. Morocco isn’t fertile ground guage) qualification will be ¨¨The key word to use is for job opportunities. useful. ‘respect’, a concept that ¨¨A good command of most Moroccans hold dear. French is a prerequisite and American Language Cent- Hashouma! (‘shame!’) can some Arabic would help. ers (www.aca.org.ma) Ten schools around the country. TEFL.com (www.tefl.com) Has a database of vacancies.

4 82 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Transport GETTING THERE the Middle East, West Africa Spain You can cross to mainland & AWAY and North America. Royal Spain via the Spanish enclaves Air Maroc (RAM; %0890 of Ceuta and Melilla in northern Entering Morocco 00 08 00; www.royalairmaroc. Morocco. com) is Morocco’s national The Moroccan government’s carrier. For information Continental Europe ‘open skies’ policy has al- about Moroccan airports, lowed the European budget visit the website of Office BUS airlines into the country, National des Aéroports Buses mostly enter Morocco while there are numerous (www.onda.ma). Casablanca’s on the ferries from Spain, ferry services from Europe. Mohammed V International with connections from Morocco also serves as the Airport is the country’s main across Europe. Routes are gateway country for African gateway, followed by Menara busiest during major Spanish overlanders. airport (Marrakesh). Other or French holidays, as buses important airports include fill up with Moroccans work- Border formalities are fair- Fes–Saïss (Fez), Ibn Batouta ing abroad. ly quick and straightforward. International (Tangier), as CTM (%in Casablanca 0522 Regardless of where you well as Ouazazarte, Agadir 45 80 80; www.ctm.ma) enter, your passport must be and Nador. Compagnie de Transports au valid for at least six months Maroc, Morocco’s national line, from your date of entry. Land operates buses from Casablanca and other Moroccan cities to Flights, tours and rail Border Crossings Spain, France, Belgium, Germany tickets can all be booked and Italy. online at lonelyplanet.com/ Algeria This border remains Eurolines (www.eurolines. bookings. closed and Algeria is reluctant to com) A consortium of European reopen it until the status of the coach companies operating Air Western Sahara is resolved. across Europe and into Morocco Mauritania The only crossing is (partnering with CTM). Airports & Airlines in the Western Sahara between Supratours (www.oncf.ma) Dakhla (Morocco) and Nouâdhi- Run by train company ONCF, Direct flights are available bou (Mauritania). has weekly departures from the from cities across Europe, CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contribu- tions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet off- sets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

483 major northern Moroccan cities This route is entirely paved in particular the last station to destinations across Spain, (apart from a 5km stretch in 50km before the border. France and Italy. the no-man’s land between ¨¨As well as getting stamped the two border posts). Mo- in by the police, you need CAR & MOTORCYCLE roccan border formalities are to buy a 30-day temporary- ¨¨European hire companies processed at Guergarat. The vehicle-import form (€10). do not usually permit their border is mined, so stay on vehicles to be driven to the road. From the border, it’s MINIBUS & JEEP Tr ansport S ea Morocco. a 41km drive along the penin- There are ad hoc transport ¨¨If you intend to take a sula to Nouâdhibou. links from Dakhla to the Mau- Moroccan hire car to the ritanian border and beyond. Spanish enclaves of Ceuta Mauritanian currency Minibuses and 4WDs leave or Melilla, you must have a (ouguiya, UM) is available at from the military checkpoint letter from the hire company the border, and on the black on the road out of Dakhla. authorising you to take the market in no-man’s land. Grands taxis occasionally car out of Morocco. run to the border from the ¨¨Some hire companies will Vehicle searches and main station (Dh220). You’ll not allow you to take their car requests for a petit cadeau then need to hitch to get to out of the country. (little present) are not un- the Mauritanian checkpoint, ¨¨If you’re entering Morocco common, particularly if the as walking across the border via Ceuta or Melilla, take the Mauritanian officials find is forbidden. A lift all the way opportunity to fill up on duty- alcohol on you (illegal in to Nouâdhibou is preferable, free fuel. Mauritania) or you will likely have to pay extortionate fees to travel on TRAIN Prepare a fiche (form) or from the border. You can travel from London to ordre de mission (itinerary) Tangier via Paris and Madrid for Mauritanian checkpoints. In Dakhla, hotels Erraha in less than 48 hours, with a List all your passport and and Sahara and the Sahara night in Algeciras (Spain). visa details, occupation, des- Regency are good places tination and your vehicle’s to pick up information and Morocco is not part of the make, colour and registration arrange transport. InterRail/Eurail systems, so number. Make plenty of pho- you will have to buy tickets tocopies. From Nouâdhibou,bush locally to add the country taxis to the border/Dakhla onto a European trip. Useful resources include cost around UM2000/11,500, Horizons Unlimited’s Sahara leaving in the early morning. In Algeciras, the train sta- Travel Forum (www.horizon- tion is about 10 minutes’ walk sunlimited.com) and Sahara Sea from the ferry terminals for Overland (http://saharaover- Morocco. If you arrive during land.wordpress.com). There are extensive ferry links the day you should be able to between northern Morocco quickly transfer to the ferries. CAR & MOTORCYCLE ¨¨Some stations south of Useful resource: Dakhla may be out of fuel, Man in Seat 61 (www.seat61. com) Comprehensive, regularly FERRY COMPANIES & ROUTES updated information on getting to Morocco by train. Direct Ferries (www.directferries.com) sells tickets for most of the below. The Europe-wide service has sites in Mauritania most European languages. Acciona Trasmediterranea (www.trasmediterranea. The trans-Saharan route via es) Almería–Melilla, Almería–Nador, Algeciras–Ceuta, Mauritania is the main route Algeciras–Tangier, Barcelona–Tangier, Málaga–Melilla. from North Africa into sub- Baleària (www.balearia.com) Algeciras–Ceuta, Saharan Africa. Algeciras–Tangier. Comarit (www.comarit.es) Algeciras–Tangier, Sète–Tan- From Dakhla follow the gier, Tarifa–Tangier. N1 south along the coast for FRS (www.frs.es) Algeciras–Ceuta, Algeciras–Tangier, 328km to the border, past Gibraltar–Tangier, Tarifa–Tangier. Nouâdhibou and south to the Grandi Navi Veloci (GNV; www.gnv.it) Barcelona– Mauritanian capital, Nouak- Tangier, Genoa–Tangier. chott. Grimaldi Lines (www.grimaldi-lines.com) Livorno– Tangier, Valencia–Tangier. While this route is gener- ally regarded as safe, check Mauritania safety advice before travelling. Take plenty of water and food, and set off early in the morning.

484 0 100 km 0 50 miles Ferry Routes Almería Málaga SPAIN Sète (France); Valencia; Tr ansport S ea Algeciras Gibraltar (UK) Barcelona Strait of Tarifa Ceuta (Spain) (Spain) Gibraltar Tangier MEDITERRANEAN Tetouan SEA Assilah MOROCCO Bou-Ahmed Al-Hoceima Melilla Chefchaouen Ajdir (Spain) Nador and southern Europe, the Marseilles) to Tangier takes ¨¨Customs can be slow on most popular of which is Alge- 36 hours; to Nador takes 28 the Spanish side if you’re ciras (Spain) to Tangier. hours. coming from Morocco. ¨¨From southern Spain and ¨¨There are about five northern Morocco, you can sailings weekly to Tangier, ALGECIRAS TO TANGIER just turn up at the dock and and one to Nador. ¨¨The most popular and buy a ticket for the next ferry, ¨¨Advance booking is frequent crossing between but book in advance during recommended. Europe and Morocco. high season (mid-June to Ferries run at least every mid-September, Christmas, Gibraltar 90 minutes, and hourly in New Year and Easter). Tickets the summer. The crossing can also be purchased online. ¨¨There’s one fast ferry a day typically takes an hour. ¨¨In Tangier and Algeciras, to/from Tangier. ¨¨Services typically run from avoid the touts who try to ¨¨The trip takes a similar 7am (or 6am in summer) guide you towards their length of time to sailings to/ until 10pm, but during peak favourite travel agency for from Algeciras, and tickets demand in August 24-hour their bit of commission. cost the same. services aren’t unknown. ¨¨Discounts for students and ¨¨Algeciras is a better option young people with an ISIC as it’s a busier port with more ALGECIRAS TO CEUTA card or similar, and InterRail choice. ¨¨Several daily high-speed or Eurail pass-holders are ferries (30 minutes to one common. Children aged Spain hour) leave in both directions between two and 12 often between about 7am and travel for half the fare, those ¨¨Ferries from Spain to 10pm. aged under two travel free, Morocco are plentiful. and over-60s can often get Tickets start at about €30. ALMERÍA TO MELILLA reductions. ¨¨Hydrofoils and catamarans ¨¨Ferries depart daily from ¨¨Vehicles can be taken on (also referred to as fast Almería, and on Monday most ferries for an extra fee; ferries) are used extensively, morning and Sunday bicycles are normally free. but are more expensive. afternoon from Melilla, ¨¨Cabins are available on ¨¨Spanish passport control taking up to eight hours. longer crossings. is uncomplicated, but non- ¨¨Ferries to Tangier now EU citizens and Schengen ALMERÍA TO NADOR dock at the new Tanger Med visa-holders should make ¨¨There are five crossings terminal, except for those sure they get an exit stamp a week in either direction, from Tarifa (Spain). before boarding the ferry. taking five/eight hours to ¨¨You need to fill in an Nador/Almería. France embarkation form on board, and get your BARCELONA TO TANGIER ¨¨The journey from Sète passport stamped before ¨¨Two companies offer (two hours by train from disembarking. this route to Tangier, one

stopping in Barcelona en nies like CTM are comfort- 485Tr ansport B icyc l e route from Genoa (Italy). able and efficient. Local net- a single central bus station ¨¨Three weekly sailings; works are cheaper and more (gare routière), but Supratours takes about 29 hours. cheerful and do the job. and CTM sometimes maintain separate terminals, and often MÁLAGA TO MELILLA Car hire is relatively ex- have offices outside the station. ¨¨The daily (apart from pensive but gives you the Occasionally, there are second- Sunday) service is normally most freedom, although navi- ary stations for a limited number an afternoon/night ferry to/ gating the big cities can be of local destinations. from Melilla. stressful. Good sealed roads Touts Touts will happily guide ¨¨It takes up to eight hours. are generally the order of the you to a ticket booth (and take day, with much investment a small commission from the TARIFA TO TANGIER being poured into areas like company). Always double-check ¨¨Catamarans leave every the Rif to improve their con- that their recommended service hour or so and cross the nectivity. Roads in remote really is the most comfortable, strait in 35 minutes, making mountain and desert areas direct and convenient option. this the fastest and most are often just piste (unsealed Luggage Bus stations in the practical route. track or road). main cities have left-luggage ¨¨The fare includes a free depots (consigne), sometimes bus transfer to Algeciras on Bicycle open 24 hours. Padlock your presentation of your ferry bags. More often than not you’ll ticket. Mountain biking can be a be charged for baggage handling, ¨¨The transfer takes 50 great way of travelling in especially if your gear is going on minutes, making the trip via Morocco. There are plenty top of the bus – Dh5 is common. Tarifa a faster way to get to of opportunities for getting Costs Bus travel is cheap Algeciras than the slower off the beaten track, with considering the distances direct ferries. thousands of kilometres of covered. CTM fares from Casa- remote pistes to be explored. blanca to Agadir, Marrakesh, Fez VALENCIA TO TANGIER Hazards Surfaced roads are and Tangier are Dh220, Dh130, ¨¨This service is part of generally well maintained once Dh70 and Dh100 respectively. the Tangier–Livorno (Italy) completed, but they tend to be Companies including Supratours sailing. narrow and, in less-frequented offer 1st- and 2nd-class tickets, ¨¨This leg of the journey areas, may have jagged edges, although the difference in fare takes 20 hours, leaving which can be hairy given the and comfort is rarely great. around midday and arriving kamikaze drivers. Beware of Reservations Where possible, at 8am in both directions. gangs of stone-throwing children and especially if services are in remote areas. infrequent or do not originate in Italy Hire You’ll find bicycles for hire the place you want to leave, book in places like Essaouira and ahead for CTM and Supratours ¨¨Three companies sail the Taroudannt, but don’t expect to buses. Particularly busy routes Mediterranean from Italy find the latest models of moun- are Marrakesh–Essaouira and to Tangier, from Livorno tain bike. Casablanca–Marrakesh, where via Valencia and Genoa via Transport Bus companies will you may need to reserve seats Barcelona. generally carry bicycles as lug- two days in advance in high ¨¨The Livorno service takes gage for an extra fee. Likewise season. 56 hours. on trains, although it’s generally Daytime journeys Many buses ¨¨The three weekly Genoa only possible to transport bikes have rather meagre curtains, sailings take about 50 hours. in the goods wagon. so to avoid melting in the sun, pay attention to where you sit. GETTING Bus Heading from north to south, sit AROUND on the right in the morning and The cheapest and most ef- the left in the afternoon; east Getting around Morocco ficient way to travel around to west, sit on the right, or on is pretty straightforward – the country, buses are gener- the left if travelling from west to transport networks between ally safe, although their driv- east. You will often be assigned towns are good, and even ers sometimes leave a little a seat when you purchase your off the beaten track there’s to be desired. ticket, but you can ask to choose often something going your Bus stations Some Moroccan a place. way. RAM offers internal bus stations are like madhouses, Night-time journeys Operating flights, the rail network is with touts running around on many intercity routes, night excellent in linking the major calling any number of destina- buses can be both quicker and cities, and large bus compa- tions of buses about to depart. cooler, although not necessarily Most cities and towns have more sleep-inducing.

486 Supratours & Train Network 0 200 km 0 100 miles SPAIN Train Network Tangier Gibraltar (UK) Melilla Ceuta (Spain) (Spain) Supratours Network Transport Bus Bus Links Tetouan Nador Oujda Kenitra Sidi Taourirt Kacem Guercif RABAT Meknès Fez Tinerhir Casablanca Azrou El-Jadida Khouribga Settat Khenifra ATLANTIC Safi Benguérir Beni Mellal Er-Rachidia OCEAN Essaouira Marrakesh Tata Merzouga MOROCCO Taroudannt Agadir Ouarzazate CANARY Tiznit Zagora Tata ISLANDS Goulimime (Spain) Tarfaya Tan Tan Disputed Border ALGERIA Laâyoune Smara Boujdour Western MAURITANIA Sahara Dakhla Stops Most bus trips longer to travellers. Established in ¨¨Most CTM buses are than three hours incorporate a 1919, it’s Morocco’s oldest modern and comfortable, scheduled stop to stretch your bus company. and some 1st-class buses legs and grab a snack. Buses are ¨¨On CTM buses, children have videos (a mixed often delayed at police check- aged four years and over pay blessing), air-conditioning points for about 10 minutes – full fares, which tend to be and heating (they sometimes longer than grands taxis, whose 15% to 30% more expensive overdo both). local drivers usually know the than most other lines – ¨¨There is an official Dh5- police. comparable to 2nd-class per-pack baggage charge on fares on normal trains. CTM buses. Bus Operators ¨¨Tickets can normally be ¨¨Once you have bought purchased in advance; check your ticket, you get a CTM departures with the online baggage tag, which you hand With the most comprehen- timetable. over when you’ve reached sive nationwide network, your destination. CTM (www.ctm.ma) serves most destinations of interest

487 SUPRATOURS ¨¨From Rabat inland to Fez provided they bear your The ONCF train company via Meknès. photograph. runs Supratours (www.oncf. ¨¨From Casablanca south to ¨¨You must carry your ma) to complement its rail Agadir via Marrakesh. licence or permit and network. For example, train passport when driving. passengers continuing south Bringing Your Own from Marrakesh link up at the Vehicle Fuel & Spare Parts Tr ansport C ar & M otorcyc l e station with buses to destina- tions including Agadir and ¨¨Every vehicle should ¨¨The country is well Ouarzazate. display the nationality plate served with petrol stations, ¨¨It’s possible, at train of its country of registration, although they become ticket offices, to buy a and you must always carry fewer and further between ticket covering a complete proof of ownership of a south of Goulimime. If trip with both rail and bus private vehicle. Moroccan you’re travelling off the components. law requires a Green Card beaten track, refuel at every ¨¨On trains, travellers with (carte verte, or International opportunity. Keep a close tickets for connecting buses Motor Insurance Card), as eye on the gauge in the have priority. proof of insurance. A warning southern desert and fill up ¨¨Supratours is similar to triangle (to be used in case of wherever you get a chance, CTM in terms of both its fares breakdown) is compulsory. as stations don’t always have and the comfort of its buses. ¨¨Obtain insurance and a supplies of fuel. Check departures with the Green Card before leaving ¨¨Leaded and less-common online timetable. home. Otherwise local unleaded (sans plomb) insurance (assurance petrol cost around Dh12.50 OTHER COMPANIES frontiere), costing about per litre and diesel (gasoil) In the south of the country, Dh650 for 10 days, must be is around Dh8.50. In the Satas and SAT are good purchased at the ferry port Western Sahara, tax-free second-tier choices, as is or a nearby broker (bureau petrol is about 30% cheaper. Trans Ghazala in the north. d’assurance). Fuel in the Spanish enclaves ¨¨Ask for the optional of Ceuta and Melilla is At the bottom end of the constat amiable form, comparably priced to price range, and on shorter which both parties fill out Morocco. routes, there are a fair in the event of a minor road ¨¨Moroccan mechanics number of two-bit operations accident. They can also be are generally good and with one or two well-worn purchased at tabacs in cities. decent-sized towns should buses. These services depart ¨¨At the port, or on the ferry have at least one garage, sufficiently full, and fre- on longer crossings, you most with a range of spare quently stop to recruit more must also fill in the TVIP parts for Renaults and other passengers. form (temporary vehicle French cars. If you can fit importation declaration – replacement parts yourself, Car & Motorcycle declaration d’admission ask a Moroccan friend to help temporaire de moyens de you buy the parts, as this Morocco is a country made transport), valid for six may help to keep the price for touring, and offers free- months. Present this form closer to local levels. dom to explore the more when you (and your vehicle) unusual routes in your own leave the country. You can Hire time. also download the form from the website of Morocco ¨¨Most Moroccan car-rental Daylight driving is gener- Customs (www.douane.gov. companies require drivers to ally no problem and not too ma), where it’s referred to as be at least 21 (or 23 in a few stressful, though Moroccan D16TER. cases). drivers need to be treated ¨¨There is no need for a ¨¨Renting a car costs about with more caution than their carnet de passage en douane Dh300 per day for a week or counterparts in the West. for temporarily importing so with unlimited mileage. your vehicle to Morocco. For longer rentals, lower The roads connecting daily rates are sometimes Morocco’s main centres are Driving Licence available. Pre-booking generally good, and there’s gives the cheapest deals. an expanding motorway net- ¨¨International driving Most companies demand work. A new motorway along permits are recommended a (returnable) cash deposit the Mediterranean coast is for Morocco by most (Dh3000 to Dh5000) or take set to join the three already automobile bodies, but an impression of your credit in place: many foreign, including card. ¨¨From Tangier down the EU, licences are accepted Atlantic Coast to El-Jadida.

488 Tr ansport C ar & M otorcyc l e motorcycle licences to be out and cut you off at inop- ¨¨With international firms used in Morocco. portune moments. such as Hertz (www.hertz. ¨¨Some companies offer com), Budget (www.budget. motorcycle (Dh300 per day Cyclists and pedestri- ma), Europcar (www.europcar. for a DT 125cc Yamaha) and ans often have poor traffic com), National (www. scooter (from Dh150 per awareness. Roads are often nationalcar.com) and Avis day) hire. busy with people (including (www.avis.ma), you can pre- ¨¨See Horizons Unlimited groups of schoolchildren), book online. There are also (www.horizonsunlimited.com) bicycles, horse and carts, numerous local agencies. for detailed advice on biking donkeys and so on. ¨¨Make sure you understand in the region. Desert In the hammada (stony what is included in the price desert), tar roads sometimes dis- and what your liabilities Parking appear without warning, replaced are. Always check the car’s by stretches of sand, gravel and condition before signing up, ¨¨Parking zones are often potholes. If a strong chergui (dry, and make sure it comes with watched by gardiens easterly desert wind) is blowing a spare tyre, tool kit and full de voitures (car-park and carrying a lot of dust, you’ll documentation – including attendants). Payment of a have to wait until it eases off if insurance cover. Keep the few dirhams gives a trouble- you don’t want to do your car car’s documents and your free parking experience. considerable damage. licence with you, rather than ¨¨In the big city centres, Mountains High and Middle in the car, as you’ll need parking tickets are issued Atlas passes are often closed them if the car is stolen or from kerbside machines due to snow in winter. Seek damaged. Keep receipts for (Dh2 to Dh3 per hour for a local advice before travelling, oil changes or mechanical maximum stay of two hours). or check the road signs along repairs; these costs should Parking is free on Sundays. the routes. be reimbursed. ¨¨Parking is not allowed at Medinas Entering cities and ¨¨Insurance must, by law, kerbsides painted in red and towns, park outside the medina be sold along with all rental white stripes. Stopping is not or find out if the route to your agreements. Make sure allowed on green and white accommodation is easily drive- that prices include collision stripes. able – narrow medina streets damage, insurance and ¨¨Fines for illegally parked weren’t designed for cars. tax (20%). You should also cars can reach Dh1500. Night Driving at night is par- take out Collision Damage ticularly hazardous: it’s legal Waiver insurance, typically Roadblocks (and very common) for vehicles about Dh35 to Dh60 a day travelling under 20km/h to drive (often with an excess of up ¨¨Police control points are without lights. to Dh5000). Super Collision common on main roads in Damage Waiver, which and out of most sizeable Road Rules eliminates or minimises the towns. excess, may be available for ¨¨Foreigners are unlikely to ¨¨Drive on the right-hand an extra Dh60 or so a day. be stopped, but it’s still a side of the road. ¨¨Unless you hire a 4WD, good idea to slow down and ¨¨Give way to traffic entering your rental agreement will put on your best smile. a roundabout from the right probably not allow off-road ¨¨Roadblocks are also when you’re already on one. (piste) driving, making you common in sensitive areas ¨¨The fine for missing a red liable for potential damages. like the Western Sahara, the stop sign is Dh700. Rif Mountains around the ¨¨The speed limit in built- Motorcycle cannabis-producing region up areas is 40km/h, and of Ketama, and the road 100km/h outside the towns ¨¨Motorcycle touring is to Figuig near the Algerian (120km/h on motorways). popular, but many bikes border. Police with radar guns are are unfamiliar in Morocco, ¨¨Police are more vigilant common, so watch your particularly those with larger in these areas, but at most, speed. capacity engines, so repairs you’ll be asked to show your ¨¨It’s the law to wear a can be tricky. passport, driving licence and seatbelt. ¨¨Carry a good tool kit and all the vehicle’s papers, and ¨¨Tolls apply on the necessary spares, including asked the purpose of your motorways – for example, cables and levers, inner visit and destination. Rabat–Tangier is about Dh60 tubes, puncture repair kit, and Rabat–Casablanca is tyre levers, pump, fuses, Road Hazards Dh20. You take a ticket upon chain, washable air filter and entering the motorway and cable ties. Morocco ranks 6th world- pay at the end. ¨¨Some insurance policies wide in road accidents. Treat do not allow foreign all vehicles as ready to veer

¨¨In the event of an accident, in a taxi collectif (shared 489Tr ansport Loca l T ransport especially involving injuries, taxi). Another expression ¨¨Petits taxis are licensed to drivers are officially required that helps explain that carry up to three passengers, to remain at the scene. you don’t want the taxi to but are not permitted to go Vehicles cannot be moved yourself is ma’a an-nas (with beyond the city limits. until the police have arrived – other people). If you’ve got ¨¨They are usually, but not this may take hours. particularly heavy/bulky always, metered. To ask ¨¨Pick up a constat amiable luggage, there might be a in French for the meter form in case you have surcharge. to be switched on, say an accident; they can be ¨¨ Hiring an entire taxi is ‘tourne le conteur, si’l vous purchased at tabacs in cities. sometimes a good option – plaît’. Where taxis are not especially if you’re travelling metered, agree on a price Local Transport with a small group, or you beforehand. want to travel along an ¨¨If the driver refuses to Bus unpopular route without use the meter and won’t waiting hours for other give you a price, ask to stop ¨¨The bigger cities have passengers. The fare should and get out. Most petit-taxi public bus services. be six times the cost for one drivers are perfectly honest, ¨¨Tickets are typically Dh4. place. If you’ll be travelling but those in Marrakesh and ¨¨Buses can be ludicrously through a scenic area, make Casablanca are notoriously overcrowded and routes sure plans for stopping en greedy with tourists. often hard to discern. route are clear. ¨¨Multiple hire is common. ¨¨Petits taxis are often an ¨¨Grand-taxi drivers often The price should be the easier and faster option. have a boy-racer mentality. same whether you hail an Overtaking on blind corners empty taxi and pick up other Grand Taxi can be a badge of honour, passengers en route, or there and speed limits are only are already others in a taxi The elderly Mercedes vehi- adhered to when there’s a you wave down, or you travel cles you’ll see on Moroccan police roadblock in sight. alone. roads and gathered near Night-time journeys are best ¨¨From 8pm (often 9pm in bus stations are shared taxis avoided. Seatbelts are a summer) there is normally (grands taxis in French or rarity – and questioning this a 50% surcharge – or just taxiat kebira in Arabic). may be taken as a slur on Dh1 or so where a fixed-fare your driver’s skills. system is in place. The Ziz and Drâa Valleys, the Tizi n’Test and the Rif Petit Taxi Pick-Up Truck & 4WD Mountains, all scenic areas not well-served by buses, are ¨¨Cities and bigger towns ¨¨In more remote areas, good to visit in a taxi. have local petits taxis, which especially the Atlas ¨¨Grands taxis link towns are a different colour in every Mountains, locals travel to their neighbours, often city. between villages in Berber in a relay system that may necessitate changing a few TRAVELLER ETIQUETTE times on longer journeys. Taxis sometimes ply longer When travelling on public transport, it’s considered routes but these services are both selfish and bad manners to eat while those around rarer and usually leave first you go without. Always buy a little extra that can be thing in the morning. offered to your neighbours; a bag of fruit is a good ¨¨Grands taxis take six choice. cramped passengers (two in the front, four in the back) Next comes the ritual. If you offer food, etiquette and leave when full. It can dictates that your fellow passengers should decline it. often be advantageous to It should be offered a second time, a little more persua- pay for two seats to get the sively, but again it will be turned down. On a third, more taxi going earlier, and give insistent offer, your neighbours are free to accept the yourself more space. This is gift if they wish to. particularly useful for lone women, as you should get If you are offered food, but you don’t want it, it’s good the front seat to yourself. manners to accept a small piece anyway, and to pat ¨¨The fixed-rate fares are a your stomach contentedly to indicate that you are full. little higher than bus fares, In return for participating in this ritual, you should be but still very reasonable. accorded great respect, offered protection and cared Make it clear you want to for like a friend. pay for une place (one spot)

Tr ansport To u rs490 mountain biking, skiing and ¨¨The overnight Tangier– camionettes (pick-up trucks), 4WD trips. Marrakesh and Oujda– old vans or the back of Wildcat Adventures (www. Casablanca trains have trucks. wildcat-bike-tours.co.uk; UK) sleeping cars. ¨¨When travelling between Offers road- and mountain-bike remote towns and villages, tours in the High Atlas and Anti Classes the best time to find a lift Atlas, plus a bike-trek-camel is early on market days itinerary. There are two types of train, (generally once or twice a Wilderness Travel (www. and the main difference week). Waits for departures wildernesstravel.com; USA) between the two is comfort, can be considerable. Much-applauded culture, wildlife rather than speed: ¨¨4WD taxis operate on and hiking specialist, with ¨¨Rapide (Train Rapide remote pistes that would itineraries from High Atlas treks Climatisé, TCR) – standard destroy normal taxis. to cruising the coastline. for intercity services. Yallah (www.yallahmorocco. ¨¨Ordinaire (Train Navette Tours com; Marrakesh & UK) The Rapide, TNR) – less decade-old company offers comfortable, without air- Atlas Sahara Trek (Map tailor-made tours plus two itiner- conditioning, apart from p52;%0524 30 39 01; www. aries covering the imperial cities the double-decker TNR atlas-sahara-trek.com; Marra- and southern Morocco, both Rabat–Casablanca shuttle. kesh) Winter camel treks to Erg ending in luxury in Marrakesh. Mostly late-night and local Chigaga and summer hikes into services. the M’Goun valley. Train Additional information: Authentic Morocco (www. ¨¨Prices given here are for authentic-morocco.com; Morocco’s excellent train rapide trains (ordinaire trains Marrakesh & UK) This reliable network is one of Africa’s are around 30% cheaper). company supports local commu- best, linking most of the ¨¨First- and 2nd-class fares nities and practises low-impact main centres. Trains are are available, with six seats in tourism, offering itineraries from reasonably priced, and pref- 1st-class compartments and camel treks to tours of Roman erable to buses where avail- eight in 2nd class. ruins. able. Trains are comfortable, ¨¨First-class tickets include Desert Majesty (Map p114; fast and run closely to their a reserved seat, while in 2nd %0524 89 07 65; www.desert timetables. The Office Na- class you just sit in an empty majesty.com; 18 Pl al-Moua- tional des Chemins de Fer seat. hidine) A highly recommended (ONCF; www.oncf.ma) runs the ¨¨Second class is more than local agency offering trips to network. adequate on short journeys. the High Atlas and the desert. ¨¨There are two main ¨¨Shuttle services operate Airport pick-ups, multilingual lines: Tangier down to regularly between Kenitra, guides originating in Erfoud, Marrakesh via Rabat and Rabat, Casablanca and Merzouga, M’Hamid and Taouz, Casablanca; and Oujda or Mohammed V International and reassuringly safe drivers are Nador inthe northeast down Airport, and they supplement offered at competitive prices. to Marrakesh, passing Fez the rapide services on this Booking queries are handled by and Meknès before joining line. Felicity who is fluent in English, the line from Tangier at Sidi German, French and Darija. Kacem. Costs Equatorial Travel (www. ¨¨A high-speed (TGV) equatorialtravel.co.uk; UK) line to link Tangier, Rabat Sample 2nd-class fares: Tailor-made trips and set itiner- and Casablanca is under ¨¨Casablanca to Marrakesh aries, focused on areas including construction and due to open (Dh90, three hours) music, photography and walking, in December 2015. ¨¨Rabat to Fez (Dh80, three run by a small agency based on ¨¨Also operated by ONCF, hours) the fair-trade concept. Supratours buses link many ¨¨Tangier to Marrakesh Journeys Elite (www. destinations to the train (Dh205, 8½ hours) journeyselite.com; UK) Offers network. Additional information: tailor-made trips such as Anti ¨¨Trains are particularly ¨¨All journeys in sleeping Atlas by 4WD, and High Atlas convenient around cars cost Dh350 in a gorges to Erg Chebbi. Casablanca and Rabat, with four-bed couchette, and Nature Trekking Maroc services leaving every 30 Dh450/600 for a single/ (www.maroctrekking.com; minutes between the two double compartment. Marrakesh) Off-the-beaten- cities. ¨¨Children aged under four track trekking, horse riding, travel free.

491 ¨¨Children between four accept luggage that can be Train Passes Tr ansport T ram and 12 years get a discount locked. (normally 50%, less in a few ¨¨Timetables for the whole Rail Pass This is avail- cases including sleeping system are posted in French able for seven/15/30 days cars). at stations, or check on the (Dh600/1170/2100 to travel in ¨¨At weekends travellers get ONCF website for times and 2nd class, Dh900/1600/3150 a 25% discount on return prices. for 1st class). Pass prices drop trips, or one-way trips longer for travellers aged under 26, and than 180km, on major-line Tickets again for those under 12 years. trains. Carte Chahab (six months ¨¨Buy tickets at the station, Dh249) If you’re under 26, this Stations & as a supplement is charged offers 25% to 50% discounts. Timetables for buying tickets on the Carte Hikma (six months train. Automatic ticket Dh99) For those aged over ¨¨Stations aren’t usually machines are becoming 60, this offers 25% to 50% well signposted, and more widespread at stations. discounts. announcements (in both ¨¨Buy your ticket the day Carte Ousraty (one year, Dh50 French and Arabic) are before you want to travel per person) For families, this frequently inaudible, so keep if possible, particularly if offers 10% to 25% on group an eye out for your stop. you want to travel 1st-class. tickets. ¨¨Most stations are located Second-class seats cannot in the ville nouvelle. In cities be reserved. First-class Tram such as Tangier, Marrakesh, tickets can be bought up Fez and Rabat, the main to a month before travel – Casablanca and Rabat both stations are sleek affairs advisable if travelling during have new and modern tram with free wi-fi and decent major holidays, and for networks, which are excellent restaurants. sleeper services. for exploring those cities. See ¨¨Stations usually have left- ¨¨Inspectors check tickets p173 for more details. luggage depots, which only on the trains.

492 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Health Prevention is the key to stay- ers. A signed and dated letter emergency telephone ing healthy in Morocco, and from your physician describing number on you. a little planning before de- your medical conditions and ¨¨Find out which private parture will save you trouble medications, including generic medical service your insurer later. With luck, your worst names, is also helpful. If carrying uses in Morocco so that you complaint on your trip will be syringes or needles, ensure you can call them direct in the a bad stomach; infections are have a physician’s letter docu- event of an emergency. usually associated with poor menting their medical necessity. ¨¨Your policy should living conditions and poverty, See your dentist before a long ideally cover emergency and can be avoided with a trip; carry a spare pair of contact air evacuation home, or few precautions. Car acci- lenses and glasses (and take transport by plane or dents are a common reason your optical prescription with ambulance to a hospital for travellers to need medical you). in a major city, which may help. Medical facilities can be excellent in large cities, but Insurance RECOMMENDED in more remote areas may VACCINATIONS be basic. ¨¨Adequate health insurance is vital when travelling to Although no specific BEFORE YOU GO Morocco. The national health vaccinations are re- service isn’t always great quired for Morocco, Vaccinations Don’t leave health and the few good private America’s Centers for matters to the last minute: some hospitals are expensive. Disease Control and vaccines don’t ensure immunity ¨¨You may prefer a policy Prevention (CDC) sug- for two weeks, so visit a doc- that pays the medical facility gests the following as tor four to eight weeks before directly rather than you routine: departure. Before leaving home, having to pay on the spot ¨¨Diphtheria ensure that all your routine and claim later, although in ¨¨Tetanus vaccination cover is complete. practice most Moroccan ¨¨Measles Ask your doctor for an interna- doctors and hospitals insist ¨¨Mumps tional certificate of vaccination, on payment up front. ¨¨Rubella listing all the vaccinations you’ve ¨¨If you have to claim later, ¨¨Polio received. make sure you keep all First-aid courses Those heading documentation. The CDC also suggests to very remote areas may like ¨¨Carry proof of your the following for Mo- to do a first-aid course, such as insurance with you; this can rocco: those offered by the American be vital in avoiding any delays ¨¨Hepatitis A and B Red Cross and St John’s Am- to treatment in emergency ¨¨Typhoid bulance. Particularly if you’re situations. ¨¨Rabies going trekking, you could take ¨¨Some policies ask you a wilderness medical training to call (reverse charge) a course, such as that offered by centre in your home country, the Royal Geographical which makes an immediate Society (www.rgs.org). assessment of your Medications Bring them in their problem; keep your insurer’s original, clearly labelled contain-

493 be essential for serious Health Canada (http://tiny- Dental care Standards are vari- problems. url.com/4tj653u) able – Marrakshi street dentists ¨¨Some policies offer lower International Associa- around the Djemaa el-Fna aren’t and higher medical-expense tion for Medical Advice recommended! Travel insurance options; the higher ones are to Travellers (IAMAT; www. doesn’t usually cover dental chiefly for countries such iamat.org) Gives access to its work other than emergency as the USA, which have online database of doctors with treatment. extremely high medical recognised training. costs. Lonely Planet (www.lonely- Infectious He alth M e dica l C h ec k l ist planet.com) Diseases Medical Checklist MD Travel Health (www. mdtravelhealth.com) US Hepatitis A Consider packing the follow- website. ing items in your medical kit: NHS (www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk) Spreads Through contaminated ¨¨antibiotics (if travelling off UK website. food (particularly shellfish) and the beaten track) Smarttraveller (www. water. ¨¨antibacterial hand gel smartraveller.gov.au) Australian Symptoms and effects Jaun- ¨¨antidiarrhoeal drugs (eg website. dice, dark urine, a yellow colour loperamide) WHO (www.who.int/ith) to the whites of the eyes, fever ¨¨paracetamol or aspirin and abdominal pain. Although ¨¨anti-inflammatory drugs IN MOROCCO rarely fatal, it can cause pro- (eg ibuprofen) longed lethargy and delayed ¨¨antihistamines (for hay Availability & recovery. fever and allergic reactions) Cost of Health Prevention Vaccine (Avaxim, ¨¨antibacterial ointment Care VAQTA, Havrix) is given as an (eg Bactroban) for cuts and injection, with a booster ex- abrasions Primary medical care is not tending the protection offered. ¨¨steroid cream or cortisone always readily available out- Hepatitis A and typhoid vaccines (for allergic rashes) side major cities and towns. can also be given as a combined ¨¨bandages, gauze and Your hotel may be able to single-dose vaccine (hepatyrix gauze rolls recommend the nearest or viatim). ¨¨adhesive or paper tape source of medical help, and ¨¨scissors, safety pins and embassy websites some- Hepatitis B tweezers times list doctors and clinics. ¨¨thermometer In an emergency, contact Spreads Through infected blood, ¨¨pocket knife your embassy or consulate. contaminated needles and ¨¨DEET-containing insect Pharmacies These are generally sexual intercourse. repellent well stocked, and pharmacists Symptoms and effects Jaun- ¨¨insect spray for clothing, can provide advice (usually dice and liver problems (occa- tents and bed nets in French) covering common sionally failure). ¨¨sunblock travellers’ complaints. They can Prevention Travellers should ¨¨oral rehydration salts (eg sell over-the-counter medication, make this a routine vaccination, Dioralyte) often including drugs only avail- although Morocco gives hepatitis ¨¨iodine or other water- able on prescription at home, B vaccination as part of routine purification tablets and advise when more special- childhood vaccination. It is given ¨¨syringes and sterile ised help is needed. Double- singly, or at the same time as needles (if travelling to check any unfamiliar purchases; hepatitis A. remote areas) readers have reported receiv- ing incorrect and potentially HIV Websites dangerous medication for their conditions. Morocco has an HIV infec- Useful to consult prior to Doctors and clinics If you are tion rate of 0.15%, primarily departure: being treated by a doctor or at found in cities such as Agadir CDC (www.cdc.gov/travel) US a clinic, particularly outside the and Marrakesh, and rising website. major cities, you will often be to around 5% among men expected to purchase medical who have sex with men, sex supplies on the spot – even workers and intravenous including sterile dressings or drug users. intravenous fluids. Spreads Through infected blood and blood products; sexual intercourse with an infected partner; ‘blood to blood’ con- tacts, such as through con- taminated instruments during medical, dental, acupuncture

494 He alth T rav e l l e r ’ s D iarr h o e a X-ray is the best way to confirm erratic sleeping patterns – can and other body-piercing proce- if you have tuberculosis. all make your body more suscep- dures, or sharing used intrave- Prevention BCG vaccine is tible to an upset stomach. nous needles. recommended for those mixing Prevention Water is gener- closely with the local popula- ally safe to drink in cities, but Leishmaniasis tion, whether visiting family, elsewhere you should only drink planning a long stay, or working treated water. Eat fresh fruits Spreads Through the bite of an as a teacher or health-care or vegetables only if they are infected sandfly or dog. It may worker. As it’s a live vaccine it cooked or if you have washed be found in rural areas in the should not be given to pregnant or peeled them yourself. Buffet Atlas Mountains, where sandflies women or immuno-compromised meals, which may have been are more prevalent between June individuals. kept sitting warm for some time, and October. can be risky; food should be Symptoms and effects Slowly Typhoid piping hot. Meals freshly cooked growing skin lumps or sores. in front of you (like much street It may develop into a serious, Spreads Through food or water food) or served in a busy life-threatening fever, usually that has been contaminated by restaurant are more likely to accompanied by anaemia and infected human faeces. be safe. Be sensible, but not weight loss. Symptoms and effects Initially, paranoid: food is one of the Prevention and treatment usually fever or a pink rash treats of visiting Morocco, so Avoid sandfly bites. There is on the abdomen. Septicaemia don’t miss out. no vaccine, but treatment with (blood poisoning) may also Hygiene Pay close attention to an antimonial drug such as occur. personal hygiene. Many Moroc- Glucantime or Pentostam is Prevention Typhim Vi or typherix can meals are eaten with the straightforward, usually involving vaccine. In some countries, hand, so always wash before an injection. the oral vaccine Vivotif is also eating and after using the toilet. available. Even the smallest restaurant Rabies will have a sink, but soap is less Yellow Fever common, especially at cheap Spreads Through bites or licks hotels. Antibacterial hand gel, on broken skin from an infected Travellers arriving in Morocco which cleans without needing animal. Rabies is endemic to from a yellow-fever-endemic water, is useful. Morocco. area need to show proof of Treatment Drink plenty of Symptoms and effects Initial vaccination before entry. fluids, and preferably an oral symptoms are pain or tingling Spreads There is a small risk of rehydration solution; pharma- at the site of the bite with fever, yellow fever, borne by mosqui- cies stock these inexpensive loss of appetite and headache. toes, in rural Chefchaouen prov- sels de réhydration orale. Avoid If untreated, both ‘furious’ and ince between May and October. fatty food and dairy products. less-common ‘dumb’ rabies are Symptoms and effects Muscle A few loose stools don’t require fatal. aches, fever, headache, nausea treatment, but if you start hav- Prevention and treatment and vomiting subside after a few ing more than four or five a day, People travelling to remote days, followed in up to a quarter take an antibiotic (usually a areas, where a reliable source of of cases by anaemia, liver inflam- quinolone drug) and an anti- post-bite vaccine is not avail- mation, hepatitis, jaundice and diarrhoeal agent (such as able within 24 hours, should be kidney damage. Most patients loperamide). If diarrhoea is vaccinated. Any bite, scratch or who also experience bleed- bloody, persists for more than lick from a warm-blooded, furry ing from the nose, mouth and 72 hours, and is accompanied animal should immediately be stomach (leading to blood in by fever, shaking, chills or thoroughly cleaned. If you have vomit and faeces) die in a short severe abdominal pain, seek not been vaccinated and you get space of time. medical attention. bitten, you will need a course of Prevention The risk is so small injections starting as soon as that the World Health Or- Environmental possible after the injury. Vaccina- ganization does not recommend Hazards tion does not provide immunity; vaccination. It must be given at it merely buys you more time to a designated clinic, and is a live Altitude Sickness seek medical help. vaccine so must not be given to immuno-compromised or Causes Lack of oxygen at high Tuberculosis pregnant travellers. altitudes (over 2500m) affects most people to some extent. The Spreads Through close respira- Traveller’s effect may be mild or severe, tory contact and, occasionally, Diarrhoea and occurs because less oxygen infected milk or milk products. reaches the muscles and the Symptoms and effects Can Causes Strains of travel – unfa- brain at high altitudes, requiring be asymptomatic, although miliar food, heat, long days and symptoms can include a cough, weight loss or fever months or even years after exposure. An

495 the heart and lungs to compen- Heat Illness TRAVEL HEALTH He alth E n vir o n m e n ta l Ha z ards sate by working harder. There BOOKS is no hard-and-fast rule as to Causes Occurs following heavy what is too high: Acute Mountain sweating and excessive fluid International Travel Sickness (AMS) has been fatal loss with inadequate replace- Health Guide by Stu- at 3000m, although 3500m to ment of fluids and salt. This art Rose MD. 4500m is the usual range. is particularly common in hot Symptoms and effects Symp- climates when taking unac- The Travellers’ Good toms of AMS usually (but not customed exercise before full Health Guide by Ted always) develop during the first acclimatisation. Lankester. 24 hours at altitude. Mild symp- Symptoms and effects Head- Travellers’ Health by toms include headache, lethargy, ache, dizziness and tiredness. Dr Richard Dawood. dizziness, difficulty sleeping and Prevention Dehydration is loss of appetite. Potentially fatal, already happening by the time itchy, lumpy bites. Tiny scabies AMS may become more severe you feel thirsty – drink sufficient mites live in the skin, particularly without warning. Severe symp- water such that you produce between the fingers, and cause toms include breathlessness, pale, diluted urine. Morocco’s an intensely itchy rash. a dry, irritative cough (which sun can be fierce, so bring a hat. Prevention and treatment may progress to the production Treatment Consists of fluid DEET-based insect repellents. of pink, frothy sputum), severe replacement with water, fruit Spraying a mattress with an headache, lack of coordination, juice, or both, and cooling by appropriate insect killer will confusion, irrational behaviour, cold water and fans. Treating salt do a good job of getting rid vomiting, drowsiness and uncon- loss consists of consuming salty of bedbugs. Scabies is easily sciousness. fluids such as soup or broth, and treated with lotion available from Prevention If trekking, build adding a little more table salt to pharmacies; people you come time into your schedule to foods than usual. into contact with also need treat- acclimatise, and ensure your ment to avoid spreading scabies guide knows how to recognise Heatstroke between asymptomatic carriers. and deal with altitude sickness. Morocco’s most popular trek, Causes Extreme heat, high Snake Bites to Jebel Toubkal, reaches the humidity, physical exertion or 4167m summit relatively quickly, use of drugs or alcohol in the Causes The chances of seeing a so many people may suffer sun, and dehydration. Occurs snake in Morocco, let alone being even mildly. The longer treks in when the body’s heat-regulating bitten by one, are slim. Neverthe- the M’Goun Massif also reach mechanism breaks down. less, there are a few venomous heights of around 4000m. Treks Symptoms and effects An species, such as the horned in the Rif Mountains and Jebel excessive rise in body tempera- viper, found in the southern Sarhro are considerably lower, ture leads to sweating ceasing, desert areas. Snakes like to bask so don’t carry the same risks. irrational and hyperactive on rocks and sand, retreating You can download free booklets, behaviour, and eventually loss of during the heat of the day. including Travel at Altitude and consciousness, and death. Prevention Do not walk barefoot Children at Altitude, from the Treatment Rapid cooling by or stick your hand into holes or website of the British Moun- spraying the body with water and cracks. taineering Council (BMC; fanning is ideal. Emergency fluid Treatment If bitten, do not www.thebmc.co.uk). and electrolyte replacement by panic. Half of those bitten by Treatment Treat mild symptoms intravenous drip is usually also venomous snakes are not actu- by resting at the same altitude required. ally injected with poison (enven- until recovery, or preferably omed). Immobilise the bitten descend – even 500m can help. Insect Bites & Stings limb with a splint (eg a stick) and Take paracetamol or aspirin for apply a bandage over the site, headaches. If symptoms persist Causes Mosquitoes, sandflies with firm pressure, similar to ap- or become worse, immediate (found around the Mediterranean plying a bandage over a sprain. descent is necessary. Drug beaches), scorpions (common Do not apply a tourniquet, or treatments should never be used in southern Morocco), bees and cut or suck the bite. Get the to avoid descent or to enable wasps, bedbugs and scabies victim to medical help as soon as further ascent. Diamox (aceta- (both found in cheaper accom- possible so that antivenin can be zolamide) reduces the headache modation). given if necessary. of AMS and helps the body ac- Symptoms and effects More climatise to the lack of oxygen. It likely to be an irritant than Water is only available on prescription, a health risk. Sandflies have and those who are allergic to a nasty, itchy bite, and can Tap water is chlorinated in sulfonamide antibiotics may also carry the rare skin disorder Morocco’s cities and gener- be allergic to Diamox. leishmaniasis. Scorpions have ally safe to drink – certainly a painful sting that is rarely life- threatening. Bedbugs lead to very

Health Women’s He alth496 viruses that can cause diar- kept in a cool, dry place or they safe to clean your teeth with. rhoea or vomiting. may crack and perish. Elsewhere, stick to treated Pregnancy Take written records water – filter or purify it. Women’s Health of the pregnancy and your blood Bottled water is available group, which will be helpful if everywhere, although there Condoms, tampons and sani- you need medical attention. is an environmental cost tary pads are widely available Antenatal facilities vary greatly through the mountains of in Morocco. in North Africa, so think care- discarded (and unrecycled) Contraception If using oral con- fully before travelling to out- plastic bottles. traceptives, remember that some of-the-way places, bearing in Off the beaten track, water antibiotics, as well as diarrhoea mind the cultural and linguistic drawn from wells or pumped and vomiting, can stop the pill difficulties, not to mention the from boreholes should be from working, so take condoms poor medical standards, you safe, but never drink water just in case. Condoms should be could face. from rivers or lakes, as this may contain bacteria or

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 497 Language The official language in Morocco is Arabic, oo as in ‘food’ which is used throughout the country. Berber ow as in ‘how’ is spoken in the Rif and Atlas Mountains. u as in ‘put’ Most Berbers also speak at least some Ara- Note that when double consonants occur in bic. French is still regularly used in the cities, the pronunciation guides, each consonant is but much less so among rural Berbers. pronounced. For example, hammam (bath) is pronounced ‘ham-mam’. The apostrophe (’) MOROCCAN ARABIC represents the glottal stop (like the closing of the throat before saying ‘Oh-oh!’). Other Moroccan Arabic (Darija) is a variety of consonant sounds to keep in mind are: Modern Standard Arabic (MSA), but is so dh like the ‘th’ in ‘this’ different from it in many respects as to be gh a throaty sound like the French ‘r’ virtually like another language. This is the h a strongly whispered ‘h’ everyday spoken language you’ll hear when kh as the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch in Morocco. q a strong, throaty ‘k’ sound All publications and signs, however, are Basics written in Modern Standard Arabic (MSA), which is the common written form in all When addressing a man, the polite term Arabic-speaking countries. Note though more or less equivalent to ‘Mr’ is aseedee that in Morocco, standard Western numeric (shortened to see before a name); for women symbols are used rather than those normally it’s lalla, followed by the first name. To attract used in Arabic. the attention of someone in the street or a waiter in a cafe, the word shreef is used. In this language guide we’ve represented the Arabic phrases with the Roman alphabet The abbreviations ‘m/f/pl’ (male/female/ using a simplified pronunciation system. The plural) are used where applicable. vowels are: a as in ‘had’ Hi. la bes (informal) aa like the ‘a’ in ‘father’ bekheer (response) ai as in ‘aisle’ Hello. es salaam alaykum (polite) ay as in ‘day’ wa alaykum salaam e as in ‘bet’ (response) ee as in ‘beer’, only softer Goodbye. bessalama/m’a ssalama i as in ‘hit’ Please. ’afak/’afik/’afakum o as in ‘note’ (said to m/f/pl) shukran WANT MORE? Thank you. la shukran ’la wejb For in-depth language information and You’re welcome. smeh leeya handy phrases, check out Lonely Excuse me. eeyeh/la Planet’s Moroccan Arabic Phrasebook. Yes./No. keef halek? You’ll find it at shop.lonelyplanet. How are you? bekheer, lhamdoo llaah com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s Fine, thank you. iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

498 What’s your name? asmeetek? Question Words – Arabic My name is ... esmee ... How? keefash? Do you speak wash kat’ref English? negleezeeya? What? ash? I don’t understand. mafhemtsh When? eemta? L ANGUAGE M O R O C C A N A R A B I C Where? feen? Which? ashmen? Accommodation Who? shkoon? Where is a ...? feen kayn ...? Why? ’lash? campsite shee mukheyyem behind men luy hna hotel shee ootayl here hedda next to ’eks youth hostel daar shshabab opposite hunak there wIsatshhekraeynasrhoeoembeaetvkahilaawbeleey?a? wCaasnhIyseemeketnhleeeronsohmoo?f lbeet? north shamel Hbaoswh hmalukcahynisgbaaryot ol wmahfeodr nohnaer?day? south janoob east sherq I’d like a room ... bgheet shee beet ... west gherb for one person dyal wahed for two people dyal jooj Eating & Drinking with a bathroom belhammam A table for..., please. air-conditioning kleemateezaseeyun tabla dyal ... ’afak namooseeya Can I see the menu, please? bed bttaaneeya nazar na’raf lmaakla lli ‘andkum? lma skhoon What do you recommend? blanket saroot shnoo tansaani nakul? eezar I’ll try what she/he is having. hot water doosh gha nzharrab shnoo kaatakul hiyya/huwwa beet lma I’m a vegetarian. key makanakoolsh llehem sheet I’d like something to drink. shower bgheet shi haazha nashrubha toilet Directions Please bring me ... llaa ykhalleek zheeb li ... a beer birra fWeehnekraeyins..t.?he ...? a glass/bottle kaas/qar’a dyal of red/white/ hmar/byad/ aWshhnaotoishotohweaald’udnrweasns?? rose wine roozi shshrab a napkin mandeel kPtleebals’uenwwarinte‘afdeokwn the address. some bread shwiyya dyaal lkhoobz some pepper shwiyya dyaal lebzaar wPelerraislieyasmhoenwlmkhearoitna ’tahfaekmap. some salt shwiyya dyaal lmelha bHsohwhaflabr’a?y d? some water shwiyya dyaal lmaa Gseoersntereasighahnt ahead. I didn’t order this. tlabtsh had shshi Without ..., please. bla ... ’afak Turn ... dor ... This is excellent! had shshi ldeed bezzef! Cheers! bsaha! at the corner felqent The bill, please. lahsaab, ’afak at the traffic lights fedo elhmer left/right ‘al leeser/leemen