[Lonely Planet] Morocco

499 Meat & Fish shton cheese fromaj/jiben L ANGUAGE M O R O C C A N A R A B I C baqree chips ships anchovies lehem jemil eggs bayd beef farooj/dujaj oil zit camel lamoori pepper filfil/lebzaar chicken hut salt melha kelawwi soup shorba cod lehem ghenmee sugar sukur fish kebda yoghurt zabadee/laban/danoon kidneys laangos lamb lehem Emergencies liver serdeen lobster qaimroon Help! ’teqnee! meat sol sardines ton Help me, please! ’awennee ’afak! shrimp merla sole Go away! seer fhalek! tuna whiting I’m lost. tweddert Thief! sheffar! Fruit & Vegetables I’ve been robbed. tsreqt apple teffah Call the police! ’ayyet ’la lbùlees! apricot meshmash Call a doctor! ’ayyet ’la shee tbeeb! artichoke qooq There’s been an uq’at kseeda! accident! aubergine lbdanzhaal Where’s the toilet? feen kayn lbeet lma? banana banan/moz cucumber khiyaar dates tmer Numbers – Arabic 1 wahed figs kermoos 2 jooj fruit fakiya 3 tlata garlic tooma 4 reb’a grapes ‘eineb 5 khamsa green beans loobeeya 6 setta lentils ‘aads 7 seb’a lettuce khess 8 tmenya mushroom fegg’a 9 tes’ood olives zeetoun 10 ’ashra onion besla 20 ’ashreen orange limoon 30 tlateen peas zelbana bisila 40 reb’een pomegranate reman 50 khamseen potatoes batatas 60 setteen tomato mataisha tamatim 70 seb’een vegetables khoodar 80 tmaneen watermelon dellah 90 tes’een white beans fasooliya 100 mya Other khoobz 200 myatayn zebda bread 1000 alf butter 2000 alfayn

500 ana mreed day nhar I’m sick. kaydernee henna week l’usbu’ It hurts here. ‘andee lhsaseeya m‘a month shshhar (lbeenseleen) year l’am I’m allergic to (penicillin). early/late bekree/m’ettel quickly/slowly dgheeya/beshweeya L ANGUAGE M O R O C C A N A R A B I C Shopping & Services Monday nhar letneen Where is the ...? feen kayn ...? Tuesday nhar ttlat Wednesday nhar larb’ bank shee baanka Thursday nhar lekhmees Friday nhar jjem’a barber shee hellaq Saturday nhar ssebt Sunday nhar lhedd chemist/pharmacy farmasyan January yanaayir ... embassy ssifaara dyal ... February fibraayir March maaris market souk April abreel May maayu police station lkoomeesareeya June yunyu July yulyu post office lboostaa August aghustus/ghusht September sibtimbir/shebtenber restaurant ristura/mat’am October uktoobir November nufimbir/nu’enbir souvenir shop baazaar December disimbir/dijenbir travel agency wekaalet el aasfaar I want to change ... bgheet nserref ... some money shee floos travellers cheques shek seeyahee I’d like to buy ... bgheet nshree ... Transport I’m only looking. gheer kanshoof Can I look at it? wakhkha nshoofha? Public Transport I don’t like it. ma’jebatneesh How much is it? bshhal? When does the ... wufuqash kaykhrej/ That’s very ghalee bezzaf expensive. Can I pay by credit wash nkder nkhelles bel card? kart kredee? big kabeer leave/arrive? kaywsul ...? small sagheer open mehlool boat lbaboor closed masdood city/intercity bus ttubees/lkar train tran plane ttayyyaara Time & Dates I’d like a ... ticket. ’afak bgheet wahed lwarka l ddar lbayda … What time is it? shal fessa’a? return bash nemshee oo njee 1st/2nd class ddaraja lloola/ttaneeya lbareh yesterday lyoom Where is the ...? feen kayn ...? today ghedda tomorrow airport mataar fessbah bus station mhetta dyal ttobeesat fel’sheeya morning ’sheeya bus stop blasa dyal ttobeesat afternoon evening ticket office maktab lwerqa train station lagaar

501 What’s the fare? Tashelhit dialect, the one visitors are likely to shhal taman lwarka? find most useful. Please tell me when we get to ... ’afak eela wselna l ... goolhaleeya Basics la bes darik/darim (m/f) L ANGUAGE B E R B E R I want to pay for one place only. la bes bgheet nkhelles blaasaawaheda Hello. akayaoon arbee Stop here, please. Hello. (response) akranwes daghr wqef henna ’afak Goodbye. barakalaufik Please wait for me. See you later. barakalaufik tsennanee ’afak Please. yah Thank you. oho Driving & Cycling Yes. samhiy No. meneek antgeet? Where can I feen yimkin Excuse me. la bes, lhamdulah hire a ...? li nkri ...? How are you? eefulkee/eeshwa Fine, thank you. (khaib) eeghshne bicycle bshklit Good. Bad. camel jmel car tumubeel donkey hmar horse ’awd Can I park here? Practicalities teeremt wash nqder nwakef hna? food How long can I park here? sh-hal men waket neqder nstatiun hna? mule aserdon How do I get to ...? keefesh ghaadee nuwsul l ...? somewhere to sleep kra lblast mahengane Where’s the next petrol station? fin kayna shi bumba dyal lisans griba? water arman I’d like ... litres. bgheet ... itru ’afak Is there ...? ees eela ...? Please check the oil/water. Do you have ...? ees daroon ...? ’afak shuf zzit/lma How much is it? minshk aysker? We need a mechanic. Give me ... fky ... khesna wahed lmikanisyan I want ... reegh ... The car has broken down at ... a little/lot eemeek/bzef tumubeel khasra f ... no good oor eefulkee I have a flat tyre. too expensive eeghla ‘ndi pyasa fruida I want to go to ... addowghs ... BERBER Where is (the) ...? mani gheela ...? Is it near/far? ees eeqareb/yagoog? There are three main dialects among Berber straight neeshan speakers, which in a certain sense also serve to the left fozelmad as loose lines of ethnic demarcation. to the right fofasee In the north, in the area centred on the mountain adrar Rif, the locals speak a dialect that has been river aseef called Riffian and is spoken as far south as the pass tizee Figuig on the Algerian border. The dialect village doorwar that predominates in the Middle and High Atlas and the valleys leading into the Sahara yesterday eedgam goes by various names, including Braber or today (zig sbah) rass Amazigh. tomorrow (ghasad) aska More settled tribes of the High Atlas, Anti Atlas, Souss Valley and southwestern oases generally speak Tashelhit or Chleuh. The following phrases are a selection from the

L ANGUAGE G LO S S A R Y502 chergui (A) – dry, easterly hanbel (A) – see kilim desert wind haram (A) – literally ‘forbidden’, GLOSSARY Compagnie de Transports the word is sometimes used to Marocaine – CTM; national bus denote a sacred or forbidden This glossary is a list of Ara- company area, such as the prayer room of bic (A), Berber (B), French corniche (F) – coastal road a mosque (F) and Spanish (S) terms corsair – 18th-century pirate Hejira – flight of the Prophet that are used throughout this based at Salé from Mecca to Medina in AD guide. For a list of trekking 622; the first year of the Islamic terms, see p38. dar (A) – traditional town house calendar with internal courtyard agadir (B) – fortified communal Délégation Régionale du ibn (A) – son of (see also ben) granary Tourisme – tourist office; see Idrissids – Moroccan dynasty ‘ain (A) – water source, spring also ONMT that established a stable state aït (B) – family (of), often derb (A) – lane or narrow street in northern Morocco in the 9th precedes tribal and town names djemaa (A) – Friday mosque century Alawite – hereditary dynasty (also jami’, jemaa and jamaa) iftar (A) – breaking of the fast that has ruled Morocco since the douar (A) – generally used for at sundown during Ramadan; late 17th century ‘village’ in the High Atlas breakfast (also ftur) Allah (A) – God imam (A) – Muslim cleric Almohads – puritanical Muslim Eaux et Forêts – government Interzone – name coined by group (1147–1269), originally ministry responsible for national author William Burroughs for the Berber, that arose in response to parks period 1923–56, when Tangier the corrupt Almoravid dynasty eid (A) – religious festival was controlled by nine countries Almoravids – Muslim group Ensemble Artisanal – (1054–1147) that ruled Spain and government handicraft shop jebel (A) – hill, mountain (some- the Maghreb erg (A) – sand dunes times djebel in former French possessions) bab (A) – gate fantasia (S) – military exercise jedid (A) – new (sometimes babouches (F) – traditional featuring a cavalry charge spelled jdid) leather slippers faux guides (F) – unofficial or jellaba (A) – popular flowing banu (A) – see beni informal guides garment; men’s jellabas are baraka (A) – divine blessing or foum (A) – usually the mouth of usually made from cotton or favour a river or valley (from Arabic for wool, while women’s come in Barbary – European term used ‘mouth’) light synthetic fabrics to describe the North African funduq (A) – caravanserai coast from the 16th to the 19th (often used to mean ‘hotel’) kasbah (A) – fort, citadel; often centuries also the administrative centre ben (A) – (or ibn) son of gardiens de voitures (F) – (also qasba) beni (A) – ‘sons of’, often car-park attendants kif (A) – marijuana precedes tribal name (also banu) gare routière (F) – bus station kilim (A) – flat-woven blankets Berbers – indigenous inhabitants gîte, gîte d’étape (F) – trekkers’ or floor coverings (also hanbel) of North Africa hostel, sometimes a homestay koubba (A) – sanctuary or borj (A) – fort (literally ‘tower’) Gnaoua – bluesy Moroccan shrine (see also marabout) brigade touristique (F) – musical form that began with ksar (A) – fort or fortified tourist police freed slaves in Marrakesh and stronghold (plural ksour) bureau des guides (F) – guides’ Essaouira office grand taxi (F) – (long-distance) mâalem – master artisan shared taxi Maghreb (A) – (literally ‘west’) caid/caliph – town official area covered by Morocco, calèche – horse-drawn carriage haj (A) – pilgrimage to Mecca, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya calle (S) – street hence haji or hajia, a male maison d’hôte (F) – guesthouse, camionette (F) – minivan or or female who has made the often a restored traditional pick-up truck pilgrimage Moroccan house capitol – main temple of Roman halqa (A) – street theatre majoun (A) – sticky paste made town, usually situated in the hammada (A) – stony desert of crushed seeds of the forum hammam (A) – Turkish-style marijuana plant caravanserai – large merchants’ bathhouse with sauna and marabout – holy man or saint; inn enclosing a courtyard, massage also often used to describe the providing accommodation and a mausoleums of these men marketplace (see also funduq)

503 mechouar (A) – royal assembly palmeraie (F) – palm grove Shiites – one of two main L ANGUAGE G LO S S A R Y place pastilla – a rich, savoury-sweet Islamic sects, formed by those medersa (A) – college for chicken or pigeon pie made with who believed the true imams teaching theology, law, Arabic fine pastry; a dish of layered were descended from the literature and grammar (also pastry with cinnamon and Prophet’s son-in-law Ali (see also called madrassa) almonds served as dessert at Sunnis) medina (A) – old city; used to banquets sidi (A) – honorific (equivalent describe the old Arab parts of pasha – high official in Ottoman to ‘Mr’; also si) modern towns and cities Empire (also pacha) souq (A) – market mellah (A) – Jewish quarter of pensióne (S) – guesthouse Sufism – mystical strand of the medina petit taxi (F) – local taxi Islam that emphasises Merenids (A) – Moroccan pisé (F) – building material communion with Allah through dynasty (1269–1465), responsi- made of sundried clay or mud inner attitude ble for the construction of many piste (F) – unsealed tracks, Sunnis – one of two main of Morocco’s medersas often requiring 4WD vehicles Islamic sects, derived from mihrab (A) – prayer niche in the place (F) – square, plaza followers of the Umayyad- wall of a mosque indicating the plage (F) – beach caliphate (see also Shiites) direction of Mecca (the qibla) plazas de soberanía (S) – Syndicat d’Initiative (F) – minbar (A) – pulpit in mosque; ‘Places of sovereignty’, the name government-run tourist office the imam delivers the sermon given to the Spanish possessions from one of the lower steps in North Africa tabac (F) – tobacconist and because the Prophet preached Prophet (Mohammed), the – newsagency from the top step founder of Islam, who lived moulay (A) – ruler between AD 570 and AD 632 tadelakt (A) – waterproof lime Mouloud – Islamic festival plaster mixed with pigments and celebrating the birth of the qissaria (A) – covered market polished with a stone to give it a Prophet sometimes forming the smooth, lustrous finish, originally moussem (A) – pilgrimage commercial centre of a medina used for the walls of hammams to marabout tomb; festival in Quran – sacred book of Islam but now a favourite of interior honour of a marabout designers muezzin (A) – mosque official Ramadan (A) – ninth month who sings the call to prayer from of the Muslim year, a period of tariq (A) – road, avenue the minaret fasting téléboutique (F) – privately muqarna (A) – decorative rapide (F) – type of train more operated telephone service plasterwork comfortable and slightly faster musée (F) – museum than an ordinaire tizi (B) – mountain pass refuge (F) – mountain hut, basic Tuareg – nomadic Berbers of the ONMT – Office National hikers’ shelter Sahara, also known as the Blue Marocain du Tourisme, national riad (A) – traditional town Men because of their indigo- tourist body, sometimes called house set around an internal dyed robes Délégation Régionale du garden Tourisme ribat (A) – combined monastery ville nouvelle (F) – new city; ordinaire (F) – less comfort- and fort town built by the French along- able train, slightly slower than side existing towns a rapide Saadians – Moroccan dynasty vizier – another term for a oued (A) – river or stream, that ruled in the 16th century provincial governor in the Otto- including dry riverbeds (some- sharia (A) – street man Empire, or adviser to the times wad or wadi) sherif (A) – descendant of the sultan in Morocco oulad (A) – sons (of), often Prophet precedes tribal or town name zawiya (A) – religious fraternity based around a marabout; loca- tion of the fraternity (also zaouia) zellij (A) – ceramic

504 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS O William O’Neill, Guy Oram P Colin Payne, Jorge Peregrin, Robbert Petterson, Anna Many thanks to the travellers who used the Preston, Andrea Previtali, Louise Pybus last edition and wrote to us with helpful R Tamsin Ranger, Andy Rees, Matty Renshaw, hints, useful advice and interesting anec- Jon Rothwell, Ester Rubio S Noel Sanborn, dotes: Jonathan Shapiro, Chris Silver, Mica Silver, A Mikko Ahvenainen B Gary Badham, Lene Smith, Ann Steadman, Sarah Sutcliffe Austin Beasley, Udo Berg, Monique Bergeron, T Jiameng Teah, Sally Thelen, Assen Totin Hassan Boulamjouj, Nicholas Brown C Tim V Rich Venezia W Kirstie Wielandt, Tom Carpentier, Adrian Clement, Tony Collins, Wilkinson, Christine Williams, Chi-Ki Katie Jeremy Coyd, Dorothy Crookshank, Alex Curry Wong, Debra Wood Z Bettina Zurek, Luis E D Carine De Groodt, James Deng, Michele Zuzunaga, Jessica Anne van der Zweth Di Nunzio, Tessa Ditner, Iain Dolan, Jakub Dominowski, Kevin Dugmore E Els van den AUTHOR THANKS Eertwegh, Ron Eijlander F Marios Forsos, Thomas Fox, Lucille Frauenstein G Patrick Paul Clammer Gallagher, Andra Ghent, Lucinda Gibson, Alina Gruppe H Valerie Hackl, Tracy Hall, Mulle As always, friends in Marrakesh and Fez pro- Harbort, Reineke Hollander, Natalie Howell, vided great company to bookend the research Angela Hubinger, Laura Schollert Hvalsum trip. You all know who you are – shukran. In J Benjamin Jahn, Anders Jeppsson, Emily Casablanca, thanks to Tahir Shah for his fine Jones, Robert Jones, Sue Jones K Sharon hospitality. In Assilah, particular thanks to Keld, Sertac Keles, Ineke Kamphuisen, Carin Cowell. Thanks to my co-authors Paula, Gregory Kipling, Fritz Gerd Koring, Nicole James and Helen for all their hard work. Finally, Korpell, Dimos Kyritsis L Jakub Lasek, Houda thanks and love to Robyn, who put up with me Lazrak, Jeremy Lemarchand, Dominik Linder, during the write-up. Ruth W Lo, Matthew Lombardi, Ailsa Lord, Vince Lungley, Brian Lynch M Andy McLan- James Bainbridge drich, Takis Markopoulos, Fabrizio Marras, Richard Maurer, Sunil S Mehta, Bas Meijerink, A muezzin-worthy song of appreciation goes to Patricia Miró, Sarah Mitchell, Silvia Moens, everyone who aided my progress through the Anouska Moynagh N Julie Nicaisse southern medinas and mountains, including Christophe in Aglou Plage; Sally in Mirleft; Jawad and Driss in Tarfaya; Isam in Tata; Said

and Latifa in Taroudannt; Rachid in Oume- 505BEHIND THE SCENES snate; Houssine and Brahim in Tafraoute; Mahfoud in Tazekka; Yassine and Ben in Tag- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS hazout; Aneflous in Immouzer; Mohammed and Hassan at Jardin de Olhão; Sissi in Tal- Climate Map Data Climate map data adapted iouine; and Valerie in Dakhla. Thanks also to from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA the camel who towed my car out of Banana (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen- Beach; to my brother Andy for coming along Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and for the ride; and to my South African family Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. for all the cups of tea during my write-up. Cover photograph: Streetside pottery seller, Paula Hardy Keren Su/Getty. Doors opened in Marrakesh and beyond thanks to the generous insights of Moham- med Nour, Peter and Hassan at Dar Zaman, Peter Mana’ch, Emily Burrows, Bachir El’Ammari, Mike Richardson, Melissa Topa- cio, Cloe Erickson, Youssef Oulcadi, Nora Fitzgerald, Hamza Weinman, Norya Nemiche, Elsa Bauza, Eveline Donnez and the staff at Dar Housnia. Thanks also to co-authors Paul, Helen and James and Alison Bing, and, at Lonely Planet, Glenn van der Knijff. Last, but never least, thank you to Rob for seeing Morocco through new eyes and sharing the adventure. Helen Ranger Thanks to Paul for his guidance and for tak- ing on Fez medina guesthouses. In Morocco, I thank Jess Stephens for being artistic in Sefrou, Ricky Martin for blooming in Oujda, John Wilkinson and Abdeslam Mouden for knowing so much about Chefchaouen, and Si Mohamed Baghdadi for his impressive exper- tise in Arabic and Tarafit. Robert Johnstone and Mike Richardson provided scintillating company when reviewing smart restaurants, and driver Lofti M’hamid got me there and back safely. THIS BOOK Coordinating Editors Kate Assisting Cartographers James, Simon Williamson Anita Banh, Mark Griffiths, This 11th edition of Lonely Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Planet’s Morocco guidebook Corey Hutchison Alison Lyall was researched and written Book Designer Cover Research by Paul Clammer, James Katherine Marsh Naomi Parker Bainbridge, Paula Hardy and Managing Editor Language Content Helen Ranger. This guide- Angela Tinson Branislava Vladisavljevic book was commissioned in Senior Editors Catherine Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Lonely Planet’s Melbourne Naghten, Karyn Noble Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, office, and produced by the Assisting Editors Michelle Genesys India, Jouve India, following: Bennett, Nigel Chin, Gabrielle Trent Paton Commissioning Editor Stefanos Glenn van der Knijff

506 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A Aït Benhaddou 110-12, 3 Arabic language 497- Azib Tamsoult 108 Aït Blel 86 501, see also language Azilal 87 Abachkou 94 Aït Bougomez Valley 90-2 courses Azilane 268 Abdallah, Moulay 329 Aït Bououli Valley 93 architecture 15, 19-20, 273, Azrou 342-4, 343 Abdelaziz, Moulay 51, 421 Aït Hamza 96 452-6 Abou Bnar 269 Aït Haroun 135 argan oil 217, 437 B Abu Bakr 97, 414 Âït Herbil 395 Arhermane 269 Abu Inan 417 Aït Igrane 106 Aroumd 102-3 Bab Bou-Idir 351 Abu Salim Ibrahim 417 Aït Mansour Gorges 380 art deco 452 Bab el-Mansour 329 accommodation 464-6, see Aït Ouazik 151 art galleries, see also Bab n’Ali 133, 151 Aït Oudinar 135-7 museums Bab Taza 270 also individual locations Aït Souka 104 Centre de Hassan II Badi Palace 57 child-friendly 42 Aït Youl 135 Rencontres Bahia Palace 54-5, 292 costs 464 Akchour 268 Internationales 197 bald ibises 366 language 498 Akercour 134 Cooperative des Barbary apes 86, 270, trekking 37 Akka 381 Potiers 124 Achmrah 135 Al-Akhawayn University 340 Dar Bellarj 51 458, 460 activities 21, 29-31, see also Alawite dynasty 419-20 Galerie Afnar 192 Barbary lions 459 individual activities Algeria 478 Galerie Hakim 197 Barbary sheep 460 acute mountain sickness Maison de la bathrooms 476 494-5 Al-Hoceima 261-5, 262 Photographie 53-4 beaches 20 Ad-Dakhla 402-4 Al-Hoceima National Park Marrakesh galleries 60 Adrar bou Ouzzal 107 Museum for Photography Agadir 361 Adrar Mqorn 383 265-6 & Visual Arts 55 Aglou Plage 388 Afella-Ighir 380 Ali ben Youssef Medersa 51 Museum of Contemporary Al-Hoceima 262-3 Afeska 268 Ali ben Youssef Mosque 51 Art 178 Assilah 197 Agadir 359-66, 360 Almohad dynasty 415-16 Tangier galleries 227 Banana Beach 367 Agafay Desert 62 Almond Blosson Festival Villa des Arts 157 Cala Iris 266 Agdal Basin 330 arts 446-51, see also Ceuta 241 Agdz 118-19 21, 377 individual arts Essaouira 209 Agerssif 93 Almoravid dynasty 413-15 Asni 100 Haouzia 201 Aghbalou 98 Alnif 150-1 Assaka n’Aït Ouzzine 134 Larache 192 Aghmat 97 altitude sickness 494-5 Assif n’Moursaïne 107 Legzira Plage 393-4, 13 Aglou Plage 388 Al-’uyun, see Laâyoune Assilah 12, 195-200, 320, Melilla 274 Agouti 90-2 Amazigh, see Berber people 196, 12 Plage des Nations 190 Ahmed al-Mansour amber 450 Atlantic Coast 43, 153-219, Plage Robinson 238 ed-Dahbi 47, 55, 418 Ameln Valley 380-1, 383 Sidi Bouzid 201 AIDS 493-4 Amezri 94 154 Sidi Ifni 392 Aïn Diab 159-60 Amezrou 121 accommodation 153 Sidi Kaouki 218 ‘Ain Leuh 341 Amsouzert 105 food 153 Taghazout 11, 367-8, 11 Aïn Tissimlane 257 Anfa 159-60 highlights 154 Tan Tan Plage 396-7 air travel 482 animals 459-60 travel seasons 153 Temara Plage 190 Aït Ali n’Ito 96 Anmiter 110 weather 153 Town Beach 227 Aït Alla 96 Anti Atlas 315, 375-84 ATMs 469 Beat writers 233 Anzal 127-8 Atougha 384 bedbugs 495 Map Pages 000 Aouli 346 Aufous 143 beer 438 Photo Pages 000 Aourir 367 Azemmour 203 Beni-Snassen apes 86, 270, 458, 460 Azib Imi n’Ouassif 107 Mountains 279 Azib Likemt 105

507 Benohoud, Hicham 449 Ouarzazate 113 drinking & nightlife 259 dangers, see safety INDE X B - E Benzú 242 Zagora 122 festivals 255 Dar Bellarj 51 Berber people 20, 409-11, camping 39, 464-5 food 258-9 Darija, see Arabic language cannabis, see kif history 252-3 dates 120 413, 423 Cap Beddouza 208 shopping 259 Demnate 84-5 language 501 Cap Malabata 239 sights 253 deserts 20, 29, 62, 316, music 441 Cap Spartel 238-9 travel to/from 260 Berkane 279 car travel travel within 260 458-9, see also Sahara Bhalil 324 to/from Morocco 483 Chellah 177-8 desert bicycle travel, see cycling within Morocco 487-9 Cherkaoui, Larbi 446 Diabat 218 Bin el-Ouidane 88 carbon offsets 482 Cherry Festival 22, 324 diarrhoea 494 Binebine, Mahi 446 carpets 447-8 children, travel with 40-2 disabilities, travellers birds 459-60 Casablanca 167 with 477 birdwatching 29 Casablanca 15, 155-72, 158, Marrakesh 64 Djemaa el-Fna 9, 50, 73, Cathédrale des 160, 163, 15 Rabat 182 8, 296 accommodation 161-72 Tangier 232 Douiria Derb el Rochers 90 activities 160 Chleuh people 375 Hammam 50 Ifrane National Park 341 children, travel with 167 churches & cathedrals Merja Zerga National courses 160-1 Church of San Drâa Valley 10, 118-28, 10 drinking 168 drinks 437-9 Park 191 entertainment 169-70 Bartolome 197 driving, see car travel Moulouya River 278 festivals 161 Iglesia de Bacturia 247 drugs 245, 468, 473, see Souss-Massa National food 166-8 Iglesia de la Purísima history 155-6 also kif Park 366 itineraries 156 Concepción 272 Vallée des Oiseaux 131 shopping 170 Old Spanish Church 225 E Black Guard 420 sights 156-60 St Andrew’s Church 227 boat travel 483-5 tourist information 171 cinema, see film Eberhardt, Isabelle 426 bombings tours 161 Circuits Touristiques 120 Echair, Hassan 446 Casablanca 168, 421 travel to/from 171-2 Cirque Jaffar 346 economy 406, 430 Marrakesh 406 travel within 172 Cité Portugaise 200 Eid al-Adha 472 books 406, 443-4 walking tours 164-5 climate 16, 21-3, see also Eid al-Fitr 472 architecture 452, 456 individual regions El Peñón de culture 428, 429 Cascades d’Ouzoud 86-7 climate change 482 environment 460 Cascades d’Irhoulidene 101 clothing 33, 428, 449, 480 Alhucemas 263 health 495 castles, see ksour consulates 467 electricity 467 history 416, 417, 423 Cathédrale des cooking courses El-Hiba 385 Islam 415 Essaouira 211 trekking 33, 35, 36 Rochers 90 Fez 300 El-Jadida 200-3, 201 border crossings 482-3 cathedrals, see churches & Marrakesh 64-5 El-Jebha 261 Bou-Ahmed 261 costs 17 El-Kelaâ 257 Bouarfa 355, 461 cathedrals accommodation 464 embassies 467 Boumalne du Dadès 131-2, caves food 432 embroidery 448-9 courses emergencies 17 291 Grottes de cooking 64-5, 211, 300 Bowles, Paul 230, 233, 443 Chameau 279 language 65, 161, 178, language 499-500 budget, see costs environment 457-62 Burroughs, William 233 Grottes des Pigeons 279 211, 300-1, 468 environmental issues 38-9, bus travel Grottes d’Hercule 238 couscous 434 cell phones 16, 476 crafts 18, 91, 446-51 461-2 to/from Morocco 485-7 Central Morocco 43, credit cards 469-70 Erfoud 144-5 within Morocco 489 46-152, 48 culture 18, 406-8, 426-30 Erg Chebbi 147, 148, 316, business hours 470-1 accommodation 46 currency 16, 469 climate 46 customs regulations 466 316 C food 46 cycling 30, 62, 485, see Erg Chigaga 125, 126, 316 highlights 48 Erg Ezahar 125 Cabo Negro 251 travel seasons 46 also mountain biking Er-Rachidia 142-3 Cala Iris 266 ceramics 207, 312, 450 Er-Raissouli 198 calligraphy 446-7 D Essaouira 208-17, 320, camel treks 14, 30, 3, Ceuta 239-245, 240 Châpeau de Napoléon Dadès Gorge 135-7 210, 320 14, 313 Dadès Valley 128-42 accommodation 212-14 Diabat 218 379-80 Dakhla 402-4 activities 209-11 Erg Ezahar 125 Chefchaouen 15, 252-60, drinking 215 Erg Chebbi 148 festivals 211 Erg Chigaga 125-6 254, 15, 292, 314 food 214-17 accommodation 255-8 history 208 activities 253-5 shopping 216 sights 208-9

INDE X E- K508 food 19, 431-9, see also  health 492-6 internet access 468 Essaouira continued individual locations street food 433 internet resources 17 tourist information cooking courses 64-5, 216-17 211, 300 heatstroke 495 culture 425 travel to/from 217 costs 432 Hendrix, Jimi 214 disabilities, travellers travel within 217 internet resources 437, hepatitis 493 etiquette 408, 429 438 hibhub (hip hop) 441-2 with 477 faux guides 475 itineraries 296-7 High Atlas 10, 84-109, Fez 321 transport 489 language 498-9 food 437, 438 trekking 37-8 trekking 37 315, 10 gay & lesbian events, see festivals & hiking, see trekking events fossils 144, 150 Himmich, Bensalem 444 travellers 468 exchange rates 17 Foum Tizza 151 history 409-25 government travel Foum Zguid 127 F funduqs 51, 452 Alawite dynasty 419-20 advice 467 Almohad dynasty 415-16 health 493 Fakhour 96 G Almoravid dynasty Marrakesh 81 faux guides 475 news 418 felt 449 galleries, see art galleries 413-15 rock climbing 31 Ferkla oasis 141 García Aldave 242 arrival of Islam 411-12 Iouaridene 86 ferry travel 483-5 gardens, see parks & books 416, 417, 423 Irhazzoun n’Imlas 133 Fès el-Bali 293 European encroachment Iriki oasis 126 Fès Festival of World gardens Islam 429-30 gay travellers 467-8 420-2 books 415 Sacred Music 12, 22, Genet, Jean 192 French protectorate festivals 21-3 311, 12 geography 313-20, history 411-12 Festival of Popular Arts 422-3 holidays 472 22, 66 457-62 Idrissid dynasty 412-13 Ismail, Moulay 326-7, festivals & events 21-3 geology 457-9 Merenid dynasty 416-17 328, 329 film 23, 66, 228 Ginsberg, Allen 233 post-Independence Issaguen 260 music 22, 23, 211, 440 Glaoui, Pasha 109 itineraries 24-8, 294-5, Fez 9, 283-322, 286, Gnaoua music 441 423-5 296-7 288, 300, 305, 5, 9, Gnaoua & World Music Saadian dynasty 417-19 Izrafene 269 19, 298 HIV/AIDS 493-4 accommodation 302-8 Festival 22, 211 holidays 472 J courses 300-1 God’s Bridge 268 homestays 465 drinking 311-12 golf 218, 278 horse riding 30, 62, 218 Jardin Majorelle 60 entertainment 312 Gorge Assaka 111 Jebel Aklim 384 festivals 302 Gorges d’Aouli 346 I Jebel el-Kelaâ 257 food 308-11 Gouffre du Friouato 351 Jebel L’Kest 380-1, 383 history 283-4 Goulimime 394-6 ibises 366 Jebel Musa 239 shopping 312 Goulmima 142 Ibrouane 106 Jebel Saghro 132-5, 134 sights 284-99 Grand Socco 225 Ichbbakene 96 Jebel Siroua 384 tourist information 321 grands taxis 489 Id-Âïssa 395 Jebel Tazzeka 350-1 tours 301-2 guides 475 Idriss I 283, 412 Jebel Toubkal 103-8, 107 travel to/from 321-2 Idriss II 283 Jebel Zagora 121 travel within 322 trekking 36 Idrissid dynasty 412-13 Jelloun, Tahar ben 444 walking tours 304-5 Ifoulou 96 jewellery 450 Figuig 355 H Ifrane 339-42 Jewish people 421 film 406, 444-5 Ifrane National Park 341 Jewish quarters, see  festivals 23, 66, 228 Had Gharbia 199 Igli 133 film sites 444-5 Hajjaj, Hassan 449 Île de Mogador 209 mellahs Agdz 119 hammams 453 Imi n’Ouarg 132 Juba II 410 Aït Benhaddou 110 Imilchil 140 Citerne Portugaise 200 Agadir 361 Imi-n-Ikkis 96 K Essaouira 209 Casablanca 160 Imizzar 268 Ouarzazate 112 Chefchaouen 253 Imlil 101-2 Kabbaj, Khadija 409 Fnideq 251 Fez 299 immigration 482 Kahina, Queen al- 411 Marrakesh 63 Immouzzer des Ida Kairaouine Mosque & Map Pages 000 Tafraoute 376 Photo Pages 000 hashish, see kif Outanane 368-9 University 285 Hassan II 423 imperial cities 44, 283-33, Kariat Arekmane 278 Hassan II Mosque 157 Kasbah Amridil 129 Hassan, Moulay al- 327, 282 Kasbah Les Oudaias 177 384-5 insurance kasbahs 453-4, 466 Hassi Labied 147-8 kayaking 31, 88 car 488 health 492-3 travel 468

509 Kelaâ M’Gouna 130-1 M Fez 9, 284-7, 304, 293, Mohammed V 423 INDE X K- M Kerouac, Jack 233 288, 305, 9, 298 Mohammed VI 408, 425 Ketama 260 Maison de la Photographie Mohammed ibn Khaïr-Eddine, 53-4 Larache 192 Marrakesh 47-57, 58-9, Tumart 415 Mohammed 443 Mansour, Yacoub el- 415, money 16, 17, 469-70 kif 245, 458, 468 416 293, 19, 295 moneychangers 470 kitesurfing 31, 209 Meknès 293, 327-8, 293 mosaics 450 Koutoubia Mosque 50 maps 185, 469 Oujda 352 mosques 455 Ksar el-Oudahir 355 trekking 33, 35 Rabat 176-7 Ksar Zenaga 355 Safi 205 Ali ben Youssef ksour 454 Marathon des Sables Sefrou 322 Mosque 51 21, 113 Ksar Aït Goulmima 142 Tangier 223-5, 293, 292 Andalous Mosque 348 Ksar El Fida 146 marijuana, see kif Taza 347 Grande Mosquée Ksar el-Oudahir 355 markets, see souqs Tetouan 246 Ksar es-Seghir 239 Mediterranean Coast 44, (Chefchaouen) 253 Ksar Massa 367 Marrakesh 43, 47-83, 52, 220-80, 221 Grande Mosquée (Rabat) Ksar Oulad 56, 61, 8, 19, 295 accommodation 220 accommodation 66-71 food 220 176 Abdelhalim 146 activities 62-4 highlights 221 Grande Mosquée (Salé) Ksar Ouled Driss 125 children, travel with 64-5 travel seasons 220 Ksar Tinheras 146 climate 46 weather 220 187 Ksar Zenaga 355 courses 64-5 Grande Mosquée N’Kob 151 drinking & nightlife 76-8 Meknès 324-35, 325, 293 Tamnougalt Ksar 119 entertainment 78 accommodation 330-2 (Tangier) 224 festivals 66 drinking 333-4 Grande Mosquée (Taza) L food 71-6 festivals 330 history 47 food 332-3 347-8 La Montagne 238 internet resources 81 history 326-7 Grande Mosquée (Tiznit) Laâbi, Abdellatif 443 shopping 78-80 shopping 334 Laâyoune 400-2, 401 sights 47-62 sights 327-30 385-6 Lac de Sidi Bourhaba 190 tourist information 81 tourist information 334 Hassan II Mosque 157 Lac d’Ifni 106 tours 65-6 travel to/from 334-5 Kairaouine Mosque 285 Lake Circuit (Route des travel to/from 81-3 travel within 335 Koutoubia Mosque 50 travel within 83 Mosquée Srifi-yenne Lacs) 341 walking tours 58-9 Melilla 270-6, 272 Lalla Fatna 207-8 mellahs 269 Lalla Takerkoust 62 marriage moussem 23, 140 Spanish mosque 253 landscapes 313-20 Martil 251-2 Amezrou 121 motorcycle travel 487-9 language 359, 400, Mauritania Anmiter 110 Moulay al-Hassan 384-5 Demnate 84 Moulay ar-Rashid 326 497-503 border crossings 483 Fez 287 Moulay Bousselham Arabic 497-501 visas 478 Goulmina 142 190-2 Berber 501 Matisse, Henri 223 Marrakesh 55-6 Moulay Hassan 420 Spanish 239 Mausoleum of Moulay Sefrou 322-3 Tarifit 264 Ismail 329, 293 Telouet 110 Moulay Idriss 13, 338-9, 13 trekking 38 Mazagan 200 Zagora 121 Moulay Ismail 326-7, 328, language courses 468 M’Diq 251 Merenid dynasty 416-17 Casablanca 161 measures 465 Merja Zerga National 329 Essaouira 211 mechoui 437 Park 191 mountain biking 30, 101 Fez 300-1 medersas 454-5 Mernissi, Fatima 428 mountains 20, 315, 458 Marrakesh 65 Ali ben Youssef Rabat 178 Merzouga 147-50, 146 Jebel Aklim 384 Larache 192-4, 193 Medersa 51 Meski 143 Jebel el-Kelaâ 257 leatherwork 449-50 Medersa Bou Inania Mesti 394 Jebel L’Kest 380-1, 383 legal matters 468-9 Jebel Musa 239 Legzira Plage 393-4, 13 285, 328 M’Goun Traverse 93-6, 95 lesbian travellers 467-8 Salé medersa 187 M’Hamid 125-7 Jebel Saghro 132-5, 134 lions 459 Zawiya Nassiriyya 124 Mharje 150 Jebel Siroua 384 literature, see books media 407, 465 Middle Atlas 44, 339-46, Jebel Tazzeka 350-1 Lixus 194-5, 318 medical services 493 Lyautey, Louis 422, 430 medinas 18, 291-8 315, 282 Jebel Toubkal 103-8, 107 Midelt 344-6, 345 Jebel Zagora 121 Assilah 12, 195-6, 12 Mirador de Isabel II 242 moussems 21-3 Azzemour 203 Mirleft 389-90 Demnate 84 Casablanca 157 mobile phones 16, 476 Fez 302 Chefchaouen 15, 253, marriage 23, 140 Meknès 330 293, 15, 292 Moussem of Sidi ben Essaouira 209 Aïssa 21 Oujda 353 Setti Fatma 99 Zagora 122

510 INDE X M - S movies, see film Museum of Moroccan P prehistoric sites M’Soura 199 Arts 54 Aït Ouazik 151 mules 36 Painted Rocks 379-80 Iouaridene 86 Musée de Marrakech 51-2 Nejjarine Museum of palaces M’Soura 199 museums, see also art Wooden Arts & Tazekka 379 Crafts 285 Badi Palace 57 Yaggour Plateau 96 galleries Archaeology Museum Sidi Mohammed Ben Bahia Palace 54-5, 292 Prost, Henri 155 Abdallah Museum 209 palmeraies 11 public holidays 472 178, 247 Paradise Valley 368 Bahia Palace 54-5 Tangier American paragliding 389 R Batha Museum 285-7 Legation Museum 224 parks & gardens Berber Art Museum 60 Rabat 173-87, 174, 180 Dar Jamaï 327-8 Tetouan Museum of Andalucian Gardens 177 accommodation 179-82 Dar Si Said 54 Modern Art 247-8 CyberPark 60 activities 178 Douiria Derb el Jardin Majorelle 60 children, travel with 182 music 440-2 Jardins Exotiques 189 drinking & nightlife Hammam 50-1 festivals 22, 23, 211, 440 Jnan Sbil (Bou Jeloud 184-5 Ecomusée Berbere 98 entertainment 185 Ethnographic Museum N Gardens) 290 festivals 179 Menara Gardens 60-2 food 182-4 247 Nador 276-8 Mendoubia Gardens history 173-6 Jewish Museum 157 national parks & reserves itineraries 173 Kasbah Museum 225 225-7 shopping 185 Maison Traditionnelle 460-1 Nectarôme 97 sights 176-8 Al-Hoceima National Parc Lalla Aicha 352 tourist information 186 381 Parque Hernández 274 travel to/from 186 Moroccan Museum of Park 265-6 Parque Marítimo del travel within 186-7 Bouhachem Regional Money 178 Mediterráneo 242 rabies 494 Musée Belghazi 189 Nature Reserve 254 Safranerie 98 radio 465 Musée de Cinema 112 Ifrane National Park 341 Vallée des Oiseaux 360 Ramadan 431, 472, 473 Musée de la Fondation Lac de Sidi Bourhaba Pasha Glaoui 423 Ras el-Maa 278 passes Ras el-Mar 350 Lorin 224 190 Tizi n’Rougoult 94 religion 429-30 Musée de Marrakech Merja Zerga National Tizi n’Test 108 Reserve Naturelle de 51-2 Park 191 Tizi n’Tichka 109, 315 Tamga 90 Musée de Meknès 328 Reserve Naturelle de Tizi n’Uguent Zegsaoun reserves, see national Musée de Oasis 141 Musée des Arts et Tamga 90 136 parks & reserves Souss-Massa National Tizi-n-Oubadou 86 riads 67, 455-6, 466 Traditions de la Valleé passports 482 Rif Mountains 44, du Drâa 120 Park 366-7 Perla Saïdia 278 Musée des Oudaias 177 Talassemtane National petits taxis 489 245-66, 315 Musée du Patrimoine pharmacies 493 trekking 266-70, 267 Amazigh 360 Park 254, 266-70 photography 471 Rissani 145-7, 146 Musée National de Tazzeka National Park Pierres Bleues 379-80 rock climbing 30-1, 139 Céramique 206 Pinseau, Michel 157 Roman ruins Musée Saint-Exupéry 350 pirates 419-20 Chellah 177-8 398 Toubkal National Park planning, see also  Lixus 194-5, 318 Musée Sources Lalla individual regions Volubilis 14, 335-8, 336, Mimoun 141 100 activities 29-31 Museo de Ceuta 241 newspapers 465 budgeting 17 14, 411 Museo de la Basilica Nieto, Enrique 273 calendar of events 21-3 Rougoult 94 Tardorromana 242 N’Kob 133, 151-2, 316 children, travel with 40-2 Route des Lacs (Lake Museo de la Legión 241 health 492 Museo Etnográfico de la O internet resources 17 Circuit) 341 Culturas Amazigh & itineraries 24-8 Sefardí 272 oases 316 Morocco basics 16-17 S Museo Militar 273 opening hours 470-1 Morocco’s regions 43-4 Museum for Oualidia 204-5 responsible tourism 407 Saadian dynasty 417-19 Photography & Visual Ouaneskra 104 travel seasons 16, 21-3 Saadian Tombs 55 Arts 55 Ouarzazate 112-18, 114, trekking 32-9 safety 473-5 Museum of Fossils & politics 408 Minerals 144 317 postal services 471-2 drugs 473-4 Oued Laou 261 pottery 207, 312, 450 faux guides 475 Map Pages 000 Ouirgane 83-4 Photo Pages 000 Oujda 351-6, 352 Oukaïmeden 99-100 Ounilla Valley 111 Ourika Valley 97-9 Ouslaf 268, 269 outdoor activities, see  activities Ouzina 150

511 road hazards 488 Spain Targa 261 mountain biking 30 INDE X S - W Western Sahara 399 border crossings 482-3 Tangier 228 saffron 374 visas 478 Taroudannt 15, 369-74, touts 475 370, 15 train travel 483, 490-1 Safi 205-7, 206 Spanish cities 271, see tram travel 491 Sahara desert 399-404, also Ceuta, Melilla Tasgaïwalt 94 travel to/from Morocco Tata 381-2 482-5 457, 458-9, 460, 313 Spanish language 239 taxis 489 travel within Morocco Saïdia 278-80 Steha 261 485-91 Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de surfing 11, 31, 218, 367-8, Taza 347-50, 347, 348, travellers cheques 470 349 trekking 32-9, 34, see 23, 116, 169, 397, 398 389, 392 also camel treks Salafia Jihadia 168 sustainable tourism 451, Tazekka 379 Anti Atlas 12, 376, 382-4 Tazekka National Park 350 Chefchaouen 253-5 Salé 187-9, 188 462 Tazenakht 127 Dadès Gorge 135 sand dunes Tazouggart 94 Jebel el-Kelaâ 257 T Tazzarine 151 Jebel Saghro 132, 134 Erg Chebbi 147, 148, Tegragra 384 Jebel Siroua 374 316, 316 Tabant 90 telephone services 16, Jebel Tazzeka 350-1 Tacheddirt 105 Jebel Toubkal Ascent Erg Chigaga 125, 126, Tachfine, Youssef ben 475-6 316 television 465 103-4, 107 97, 414 Telouet 109-10 M’Goun Traverse 93-6, Erg Ezahar 125 Tafilalt 142-50 terrorism 168 Tinfou Dunes 124 Taforalt 279 95 Sanhaja people 414 Tafraoute 11, 375-8, 376, 11 Tetouan 245-50, 246 mountains 315 scams 473 Tagadirt 105 Tighdouine 96 Rif Mountains 266-70, Sebta, see Ceuta Tagdilt 132 Tighmert 395 Sebt Aït Bououli 93, 94 Taghazout 11, 367-8, 11 time 476 267 Taghoulit 94 Timguilcht Gorges 380 Tagoujimt n’Tsouiannt Sefrou 322-4, 323 Taghzoute 258 Timidarte 120 Setti Fatma 98-9 Tagmout 134 Tinejdad 141-2 89 Shah, Tahir 443 Tajalajt 134 Tinerhir 137-8 Todra Gorge 138-9, 139 shanty towns 168 Talassemtane National Tinfou Dunes 124 Toubkal Circuit sheep 460 Tinzouline 120 shopping 294-5, see also Park 266-70, 267 tipping 470 104-8, 107 Talatassat 96 Tirnmatmat 379 tuberculosis 494 individual locations Talembote 268 Tislit Gorge 384 TV 465 Sidi Bouzid 207 Taliouine 374-5 Tissa Horse Festival 302 typhoid 494 Sidi Ghanem 80 Tamatert 104 Tiwadou 380 Tamegroute 124 Tizgui 384 U Sidi Ifni 13, 390-3, 391, 13 Tamlalt Valley 135-6 Tizi n’Melloul 107 Sidi Kaouki 218-19 Tamraght 367 Tizi n’Rougoult 94 Ukas 380 Sidi Meftah 268 Tan Tan 396-7 Tizi n’Test 108 Sidi Ouarsik 394 Tanaghmelt 86-7 V Sijilmassa 145-6 Tangier 222-38, 224, 226, Tizi n’Tichka 109, 315 skiing 31, 99-100 Tizi n’Uguent Zegsaoun 136 vacations 472 Skoura 128-30 229, 292 vaccinations 492 snakes 459, 495 accommodation 228-31 Tiznit 384-8, 386 Vallée des Oiseaux 131 snowboarding 31 activities 227-8 Tizi-n-Oubadou 86 vegetarian travellers 436 souqs 295, 456 children, travel with 232 Tnine 97-8 villages 18, see also drinking & nightlife Agadir 364 Todra Gorge 138-41, 139, individual villages Aït Bougomez Valley 91 234-5 319 visas 16, 477-9 Azrou 342, 344 entertainment 235 visual arts 446-7 Demnate 85 festivals 228 toilets 476 Volubilis 14, 335-8, 336, Fez 305 food 232-4 Torres de Alcala 266 Jebel Toubkal region 99 history 222-3 14, 411 Marrakesh 78 itineraries 222 Toubkal Circuit 104-8, 107 volunteering 90, 479 Meknès 327 shopping 235-6 Toubkal National Park Rabat 176-7 sights 223-7 W Salé 188 tourist information 236 100-8 Taroudannt 373 tours 228 tours 490, see also walking tours Taza 348 travel to/from 237-8 Casablanca 164-5 Tiznit 388 travel within 238 walking tours Fez 304-5 Souss Valley 359-75 Tarafit language 264 birdwatching 29-30 Marrakesh 58-9 Souss-Massa National Park Tarfaya 397-8 Erg Chebbi 147-8 366-7 Erg Chigaga 126 waterfalls 86, 341, 368 Southern Morocco 44, Fez 301-2 359-98, 358 horse riding 30 Marrakesh 65-6

512 weather, see climate windsurfing 31, 218 Y Zegzel Gorge 279 weaving 449 wine 439 zellij 312, 450 websites, see internet women in Morocco 426, Yaggour Plateau 96 Ziz Valley 142-50 INDE X W-Z resources 428-9 Z weights 465 women travellers 479-81 Western Sahara 44, women’s health 496 Zagora 120-4 woodwork 451 Zaouiat Ahansal 88-9 399-404, 358 work 481 Zat Valley 96-7 white-water rafting 31 zawiyas 456 wildlife 459-60 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 519 Map Legend Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Beach Walking Tour detour Shinto Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lighthouse Taoist Lookout Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Hydrography Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Skiing City/Large Town River, Creek Snorkelling Town/Village Intermittent River Surfing Canal Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Water Windsurfing Airport Other Activity Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Bus Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Reef Cycling Sleeping Ferry Areas Camping Metro station Monorail Airport/Runway Eating Parking Petrol station Beach/Desert Eating Subway station Taxi Cemetery (Christian) Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Tram Cemetery (Other) Drinking & Nightlife Underground station Cafe Other Transport Glacier Entertainment Note: Not all symbols displayed above Mudflat appear on the maps in this book Entertainment Park/Forest Shopping Sight (Building) Shopping Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Paul Clammer Coordinating Author, Atlantic Coast, Fez (sleeping options) Paul has contributed to more than 25 Lonely Planet guidebooks. In a previous life he may even have been a molecular biologist. In 1993 he took a bus from his Cambridge home across Europe to Casablanca, and he has been visiting Morocco regularly ever since, including working in the country as a tour guide. Even after 20 years, he’s still able to get lost in the Fez medina if he really tries. Mostly find him at paulclammer.com, or on Twitter as @paulclammer. James Bainbridge Southern Morocco & Western Sahara Morocco is pretty much James’ favourite travel destination worldwide, and he has dropped in on the country several times, beginning a decade ago with an overland trip from London to Timbuktu. For this edition he researched the Southern Morocco & Western Sahara chapter for the second time, and loves the south, especially for its hospitable people and wild landscapes. Based at the other end of the continent in Cape Town, James specialises in Africa, and contributes online at jamesbainbridge.net, www.twitter.com/jamesbains and www.instagram.com/james_bains. Read more about James at: lonelyplanet.com/members/james_bains Paula Hardy Marrakesh & Central Morocco Paula has worked with Lonely Planet since 1999, authoring more than 30 guidebooks and covering the length and breadth of Morocco from Tangier to Agadir. Since first losing herself in medina derbs in 2003, she’s co-produced a film in Tetouan, lived in Libya for four years and written a cultural history of the Libyan Desert. Armed with a better sense of direction, she returned to familiar territory for this edition where, true to form, unstintingly warm welcomes awaited. When not contributing to Lonely Planet guidebooks Paula writes and edits for a variety of websites and travel publications. You can find her tweeting as @paula6hardy. Helen Ranger Mediterranean Coast & the Rif, Imperial Cities, Middle Atlas & the East Fascinated by Morocco’s diversity, Helen moved to Fez in 2004 and has been writing about the country ever since, contributing to Fez and the previous edi- tion of Morocco. She enjoys the ochre walls of the imperial cities as much as the wild mountains of the Rif, the boulevards and dives of Tangier and the remarka- ble architecture (and tapas bars) of Ceuta and Melilla. Helen lives in a 400-year- old traditional house where she’ll remain until she never gets lost in the Fez medina. Read more about Helen at: lonelyplanet.com/members/helenranger Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 11th edition – August 2014 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- ISBN 9781742204260 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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