Lonely Planet Cambodia

PDF Cambodia PDF ebook Edition 10th Edition Release Date Aug 2016 Pages 384 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 1 Sights 4 Sleeping PLAN YOUR TRIP r Beaches 5 Eating Your planning tool kit Photos & suggestions to help 2 Activities 6 Drinking you create the perfect trip. C Courses 3 Entertainment 2 T Tours 7 Shopping ON THE ROAD z Festivals 8 I&nfTorramnsaptioornt Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use & Events maps & insider tips. All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, 3 starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we UNDERSTAND suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Get more from your trip Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Learn about the big picture, to range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these make sense of what you see. ranges, by author preference. 4 These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: SURVIVAL GUIDE Must-visit recommendation Your at-a-glance reference Vital practical information Sustainable or green recommendation for a smooth trip. No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train n Nonsmoking apt apartments a Air-conditioning d double rooms i Internet access dm dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Cambodia Temples of Easternp2C7a0mbodia Angkor p129 ^# ^# Siemp9R3eap Northwestern Cambodia p228 _# Phnopm36Penh Soupth17C2oast THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Nick Ray, Jessica Lee

PLAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES © Welcome to Cambodia. . . . 4 PHNOM PENH. . . . . . . 36 TEMPLES OF Cambodia Map. . . . . . . . . . 6 ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . . 129 TIM HUGHES / GETTY IMAGES © Cambodia’s Top 10. . . . . . . 8 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 14 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Angkor Wat. . . . . . . . . . . 144 If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Courses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 18 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Angkor Thom. . . . . . . . . . 148 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Off the Beaten Track. . . . 26 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Bayon. . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Outdoor Adventures. . . . . 28 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 73 Baphuon. . . . . . . . . . . 154 Regions at a Glance. . . . . 33 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 76 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Royal Enclosure & PSAR THMEI P79, PHNOM PENH Around Phnom Penh . . . . 88 Phimeanakas. . . . . . . . 154 Preah Palilay. . . . . . . . 154 MAN IN TRADITIONAL Koh Dach. . . . . . . . . . . 88 Tep Pranam. . . . . . . . . 155 COSTUME, BAYON P149 Udong. . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Preah Pithu. . . . . . . . . 155 Tonlé Bati. . . . . . . . . . . 90 Terrace of the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre . . . . . . . . . . 90 Leper King. . . . . . . . . . 155 Terrace of Elephants. . . 155 Phnom Chisor. . . . . . . . 91 Kirirom National Park. . . 91 Kleangs & Prasat SIEM REAP . . . . . . . . . 93 Suor Prat. . . . . . . . . . 155 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Around Angkor Thom. . . 156 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Courses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Baksei Chamkrong. . . . 156 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Phnom Bakheng. . . . . . 156 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Chau Say Tevoda . . . . . . 157 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Thommanon. . . . . . . . . 157 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . 115 Spean Thmor. . . . . . . . . 157 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . .117 Ta Keo. . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Ta Nei . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Ta Prohm. . . . . . . . . . 158 Around Siem Reap. . . . . 124 Banteay Kdei Banteay Srei District. . . 124 & Sra Srang. . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Prek Toal Bird Prasat Kravan . . . . . . . 159 Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Preah Khan. . . . . . . . . 160 Ang Trapeng Preah Neak Poan. . . . . . 161 Thmor Reserve. . . . . . . . . . 127 Ta Som. . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Floating Village of Eastern Baray Chong Kneas. . . . . . . . . 127 Kompong Pluk. . . . . . . 128 & Eastern Mebon. . . . . 162 Kompong Khleang . . . . 128 Me Chrey. . . . . . . . . . 128 Pre Rup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Banteay Samré . . . . . . 163 Western Baray & Western Mebon. . . . . . . . 163 Roluos Temples. . . . . . . . 163 Around Angkor. . . . . . . . 164 Phnom Krom. . . . . . . . 164 Phnom Bok. . . . . . . . . 165 Chau Srei Vibol . . . . . . 165

Contents UNDERSTAND Banteay Srei. . . . . . . . 165 Kompong Luong . . . . . 235 Cambodia Today. . . . . . 304 Kbal Spean. . . . . . . . . 166 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Phnom Kulen. . . . . . . . . 167 Northern Cardamom Pol Pot & the Beng Mealea. . . . . . . . 168 Khmer Rouge Trials. . . . 323 Mountains. . . . . . . . . . 235 People & Culture . . . . . . 326 Koh Ker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . 336 Battambang Province. . . 236 Environment. . . . . . . . . . 341 SOUTH COAST. . . . . 172 Battambang . . . . . . . . 236 SURVIVAL Koh Kong Province. . . . . 174 GUIDE Pailin Province . . . . . . . 248 Koh Kong City. . . . . . . . 174 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . 348 Pailin. . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Koh Kong Samlaut. . . . . . . . . . . 250 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 370 Conservation Corridor. . . 179 Banteay Meanchey Province. . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 SPECIAL FEATURES Preah Sihanouk Outdoor Province. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Poipet . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Adventure Guide. . . . . . 28 Sisophon . . . . . . . . . . 252 Temples of Sihanoukville. . . . . . . . 184 Banteay Chhmar . . . . . 254 Angkor Guide . . . . . . . 129 Food & Drink Ream National Park. . . . . 200 Oddar Meanchey Guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Kbal Chhay Cascades. . . . 201 Province. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 The Southern Islands. . . 201 Anlong Veng . . . . . . . . 255 Dangrek Mountains. . . . 258 Koh Ta Kiev. . . . . . . . . 201 Koh Russei . . . . . . . . . 202 Preah Vihear Province. . . 258 Koh Thmei . . . . . . . . . 202 Preah Vihear City. . . . . . . 259 Koh Rong. . . . . . . . . . 202 Koh Rong Sanloem. . . . 206 Prasat Preah Vihear . . . 260 Koh Sdach Veal Krous Vulture Archipelago. . . . . . . . . 209 Feeding Station. . . . . . 263 Kampot Province . . . . . . 210 Preah Khan. . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Kampot . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Kompong Thom Province. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Around Kampot . . . . . . . . . 217 Kompong Thom. . . . . . 265 Bokor Hill Station. . . . . 218 Kep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 EASTERN CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . 270 Takeo Province. . . . . . . . 224 Kompong Cham Takeo. . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Province. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Angkor Borei Kompong Cham. . . . . . 272 & Phnom Da. . . . . . . . . . . 226 Phnom Bayong Kratie Province. . . . . . . . 277 & Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Kratie. . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 NORTHWESTERN CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . 228 Stung Treng Province. . . 281 Kompong Chhnang Stung Treng . . . . . . . . 282 Province. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Ratanakiri Province. . . . 285 Kompong Chhnang. . . . 229 Ban Lung. . . . . . . . . . 286 Pursat Province . . . . . . . 232 Mondulkiri Province. . . 294 Pursat. . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Sen Monorom. . . . . . . 295 Seima Protected Forest . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Koh Nhek. . . . . . . . . . 302

4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Cambodia Ascend to the realm of the gods, Angkor Wat. Descend into hell at Tuol Sleng Prison. With a history both inspiring and depressing, Cambodia delivers an intoxicating present. An Empire of Temples Upcountry Adventures Contemporary Cambodia is the successor Siem Reap and Phnom Penh may be the state to the mighty Khmer empire, which, heavyweights, but to some extent they are a during the Angkorian period, ruled much world away from the Cambodia of the coun- of what is now Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. tryside. This is the place to experience the The remains of this empire can be seen at rhythm of rural life and timeless landscapes the fabled temples of Angkor, monuments of dazzling rice paddies and swaying sugar unrivalled in scale and grandeur in South- palms. The South Coast is fringed by tropi- east Asia. The traveller’s first glimpse of cal islands, with just a handful of beach Angkor Wat, the ultimate expression of huts in sight. Inland lie the Cardamom Khmer genius, is sublime and is matched Mountains, part of a vast tropical wilder- by only a few select spots on earth, such as ness and the gateway to emerging ecotour- Machu Picchu or Petra. ism adventures. The mighty Mekong River cuts through the country and is home to The Urban Scene some of the region’s last remaining fresh- water dolphins, while the northeast is a Just as Angkor is more than its wat, so too world of wild and mountainous landscapes is Cambodia more than its temples, and and home to Cambodia’s ethnic minorities. its urban areas can surprise with their sophistication. Chaotic yet charismatic The Cambodian Spirit capital Phnom Penh is a revitalised city earning plaudits for its gorgeous riverside Despite having the eighth wonder of the location, cultural renaissance and world- world in its backyard, Cambodia’s real class wining-and-dining scene. Second city treasure is its people. The Khmers have Siem Reap, with its cosmopolitan cafes and been to hell and back, struggling through a diverse nightlife, is as much a destination years of bloodshed, poverty and political as the nearby iconic Angkor temples. And instability. Thanks to an unbreakable spirit up-and-coming Battambang, reminiscent and infectious optimism, they have pre- of Siem Reap before the advent of mass vailed with their smiles intact. No visitor tourism, charms with graceful French comes away without a measure of admira- architecture and a thriving contemporary tion and affection for the inhabitants of this art scene. enigmatic kingdom.

MARK READ / LONELY PLANET © 5 Why I Love Cambodia By Nick Ray, Writer Where to start? I first came through Cambodia as a young backpacker in 1995 and the tur- bulent history captured my attention. However, the people were the most memorable part of that first trip, their smiles infectious. Angkor is spectacular and special, and continues to reward no matter how many times you visit. The coastline is beautiful and blissfully un- developed compared with some of the region. And it remains a frontier for motorbike rides from the Cardamoms in the southwest to Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri in the northeast. Even as it develops, Cambodia remains an authentic adventure. For more about our writers, see page 384 Above: Monks at Ta Prohm (p158)

CaCmabmobdoiadia©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd THAILAND MPortahseartoPfraelal hmVouihnetaairn Dangkrek Mountains temples (p260) (Chuor Phnom Dangkrek) TheTweomrlpdl’sesmoofsAt inmgpkroerssive Chong Chom Choam archaeological site (p129) Prasat Preah O Smach Srawngam Vihear Preah Vihear Banteay Chhmar Choam Protected Protected Landscape Samraong Sra Em Forest ODDAR Anlong Veng Banteay Choam Chhmar MEANCHEY Ksant TheShiiepmneRweafapce of Ang Trapeng Kulen Promtep Cambodia (p93) Wildlife Sanctuary Preah Vihear City Thmor Pouk Thmor (Tbeng Meanchey) Aranya Prathet Ang Trapeng Protected Forest Koh Ker Poipet Kulen Thmor Reserve SIEM Phnom Kulen Roneim Daun Sam MBEAANNTCEHAEYY REAP National Park Srayong Wildlife Sanctuary Angkor Protected Sisophon Kralanh Landscape Phnom Beng Beng Per Mongkol Borei Mealea Wildlife Sanctuary Kulen Svay Leu Temples of (487m) Khvau Ta Seng Kouk Tonlé Sap Preah Kduoch Multiple Use Angkor Khan Me Chrey Siem Reap Phnom Den Area Prek Toal Dam Dek Daun Lem Kamrieng Bird Sanctuary Floating Kompong Ban Pakard Battambang Village of Khleang KRONG Tonlé SaCphong Kneas PAILIN KamPopying Reang Biosphere Tonlé Sap Stoeng Sambor Prei Kesei Reserve Psar Pruhm Treng RMuosusenig Boeng Tonlé Chhmar Kuk Pailin Wildlife Sanctuary Samlaut Multiple Kompong Thom Use Area BATTAMBANG Kompong Pursat Luong Battambang Krakor Colonial-era gem, gateway Phnom River to the real Cambodia (p236) Krapang Tonlé Sap (1711m) PouRthiviesart Ko Chang Trat Phnom Samkos PURSAT 12º N Wildlife Sanctuary Kompong KOMPONG Chhnang (PS1ah7mn1o7kmmos)CePnrtortaelctCeadrFdoarmeostns CHHNANG Phnom Aural Romeas (1813m) C(CMahroduKuaonmrrtaaPovimhannnsohm) Khlong Yai Phnom Phnom Aural Udong KANDAL Knang Trapeang Wildlife Sanctuary (1213m) Ko Kut Hat Lek Southern Cardamons Cham Yeam Protected Forest Krong Koh Kong KOMPONG PHNOM PENH Peam Krasaop SPEU CKoonhseKrvraotniognKOH KONG Kompong Speu Takhmau Gulf of Thailand Wildlife Sanctuary Koh Kong Corridor Kirirom Laid-bKaackmlpitotltePtorwovnisn, cceountry Chi PhatNational and coastal adventures (p210) Botum Sakor Park Ele(pChhaunDotraMmPohrunenio)tmains Ta Moa National Park Protected AmSrbeel Forest 1W1oºpe©oowtaPhSfNToeaimciuntothhrrhecLrafareaoeaeeodsdscncuSiabisnkltsosonoersei,benuadtyuspelfctktottyaaaiohelhovtnucneePinechttdalearathletlfseaonpsvas.o’iiezisenBefIrtuuusarseedcrasllyl(aetfahope(iolclpnPwa2onlnhi1d0uptann’8eet1stgb5tfsg)eoue)yrleKisrropcrouhlipawosSetkaaainromndysonoiotttoswhndfKPi,aissogoSlthai,cyhirtyRnaharnLoioenoalntlungsypdgk-evt.rctielKlTelKhleoPGrobosierSFmatumtotolom.lotrapfmrCeNSmoieocbRchaanaPstfeSthetegoteakIidaaeHoeprPvremyknARdceetaENNRVihli.eAtOaea-eTIBHerntaenUlK‘iPh-holoDPpKattamkonrhBoerhoaosueekuoSrlri-iktrtQepmatoputhNrruieoorHoseanefnctisoliParrloKK,erainanwsegrsmKaypkdilAhetpTooMeKotocunttn,oPKtohlshOmKehtyaCnipRoTyn.KihOdnahEIkunPNusKTgiTPtkaosGirXsriatAsoHmewaoeac’nkasthopXT,ngiChmoTiutkafsnhikheeaganMTrkiarPenhaTi snTinTaoDPhAkmDhaeKBenoiEnoeOnm Island 102º E 103º E

0 50 km 0 25 miles LAOS Virachey National Preah Vihear Muang Khong Siem Pang Protected Forest Park Nong Nok Khiene Voen Sai PREAH Ko Chheuteal Trapaeng RATANAKIRI VIHEAR Thom Kriel STUNG Boeng Anlong TRENG Yeak Rovieng Stung Treng Seima Tonlé San Le Tanh Ramsar Site Ban Lung Lom O'Yadaw KoTnognlé Bokheo Thala Boravit SReinver BTaosnslaés Stung Treng Lumphat WherMe othnedwulilkdirtihings Lomphat are (p294) Wildlife Sanctuary Mekong River Koh Nhek KOMPONG Sambor Phnom Prich Mondulkiri THOM Sandan Wildlife Sanctuary Protected KRATIE Forest MONDULKIRI Nam Lear Baray Kratie Sen Monorom Wildlife Sanctuary Spoe Tbong Snoul Wildlife Stung Chhlong Sanctuary Sre Khtum Trang KOMPONG Snuol Trapaeng Sre Rare dolphKinrsaitniethe Mekong CHAM Loc Ninh River (p279) Skuon Suong TBONG Kompong KHMUM Cham Chub Trapaeng Memot Krau Plong Xa Mat Neak Prey Veng RSIVEANYG Tay VIETNAM Luong PREY Svay Rieng Ninh ThPeh‘pneoamrl Poef nAhsia’ VENG Bavet is back (p36) Ba Phnom Banteay Moc Bai Kaam Chakrey Samnor Chiphu Vinh Xuong Khanh ELEVATION Binh 1500m Chau Doc HO CHI MINH CITY 1000m (SAIGON) 500m 250m 0 107º E SOUTH CHINA 108º E SEA

8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Cambodia’s Top 10

9 Siem Reap & the Temples Phnom Penh of Angkor 2 The Cambodian capital is a chaotic yet 1 One of the world’s most magnificent charming city that has stepped out sights, the temples of Angkor (p129) of the shadows of the past to embrace a are so much better than the superlatives. brighter future. Boasting one of the most Choose from Angkor Wat (pictured below beguiling riverfronts in the region, Phnom left; p144), the world’s largest religious Penh (p36) is surprisingly sophisticated building; Bayon, one of the world’s weird- thanks to its hip hotels, epicurean eateries est, with its immense stone faces; or Ta and boho bars ready to welcome urban Prohm, where nature runs amok. Buzzing explorers. Experience emotional extremes Siem Reap, with a superb selection of res- at the inspiring National Museum (pictured taurants and bars, is the base for temple below; p42) and the depressing Tuol Sleng exploration. Beyond lie floating villages on prison, showcasing the best and worst of the Tonlé Sap, adrenaline-fuelled activities Cambodian history. Once known as the such as quad biking and ziplining, and such ‘pearl of Asia’, Phnom Penh is glistening cultured pursuits as cooking classes and once more. birdwatching. MARCEL TOUNG / SHUTTERSTOCK © WAJ / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

10 PL A N YO U R TRI P C A M B O D I A’ S T O P 1 0 PETER STUCKINGS / GETTY IMAGES © 3 4 TOM COCKREM / GETTY IMAGES © Sihanoukville Beaches Battambang 3 Despite a reputation for hedonism Siha- 4 This is the real Cambodia. Unfurling noukville’s real appeal lies in its bustling along the banks of the Sangker River, beaches (p185). It’s only a short hop from Battambang (pictured above; p236) is one Sihanoukville’s gritty centre to popular of the country’s best-preserved colonial-era Otres Beach, a still mellow and sublime towns. Streets of French shophouses host stretch of sand despite the looming threat of everything from fair-trade cafes to art gal- development. More central, and the town’s leries. Beyond the town is the Cambodian prettiest beach, is Sokha Beach, its tiny countryside and a cluster of ancient tem- eastern end rarely crowded. The original ples, which, although not exactly Angkor traveller magnet is Serendipity Beach, Wat, do, mercifully, lack the crowds. Then which blends right into Occheuteal Beach there’s the ‘bamboo train’, a unique form of (pictured top; p185), popular with locals by handmade local transport only found here. day and 24-hour party people by night. Battambang in a word? Charming.

TROPICALPIXSINGAPORE / GETTY IMAGES © 11 PL A N YO U R TRI P C A M B O D I A’ S T O P 1 0 5 6 HANNAH REYES / STRINGER / GETTY IMAGES © Kampot Province Mondulkiri 5 Kampot Province (p210) offers atmos- 6 Eventually the endless rice fields and pheric towns and attractions including sugar palms that characterise the national parks, cave pagodas and beaches. Cambodian landscape give way to rolling In laid-back Kampot town, choose from hos- hills and the wild east of Mondulkiri (p294), tels, riverside resorts or boutique hotels home to the hardy Bunong people (pictured to take in the French architectural legacy above), who still practise animism and an- or explore the pretty river by paddle-board cestor worship. Wildlife is a big draw here or kayak. Sleepier Kep has its famous Crab with the opportunity to walk with elephants Market, hiking in Kep National Park and or spot doucs or gibbons on a trek through nearby Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island; pictured the Seima Protected Forest. Add thunder- top; p219). Countryside romps include the ous waterfalls, a jungle zipline and quad ascent to Bokor Hill Station or exploring biking to the mix and you have the perfect Kampot’s famous working pepper farms. ingredients for an authentic adventure.

12 8 7 DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © ALEKSANDAR TODOROVIC / SHUTTERSTOCK © PL A N YO U R TRI P C ambodia’ s T op 1 0 The Southern Kratie Prasat Preah Islands Vihear 8 Gateway to the rare 7 Cambodia’s up-and- freshwater Irrawaddy 9 The mother of all coming southern dolphins of the Mekong, mountain temples, islands (p201) are remi- Kratie (p277) is a busy Prasat Preah Vihear (p262) niscent of 1980s Thailand. crossroads on the overland stands majestically atop Koh Rong (pictured above route between Phnom Penh the Dangkrek Mountains, left; p202) and Koh Rong and northeastern Cambo- forming a controversial Sanloem, off the Sihan- dia or southern Laos. The border post between Cam- oukville coast, fulfil those town has a certain decay- bodia and Thailand. Its Asian paradise fantasies. ing colonial grandeur and foundation stones stretch Koh Rong is party central, boasts some of the coun- to the edge of the cliff, and with its hippy travel hub try’s best Mekong sunsets. the views across northern of Koh Tuch village, while Nearby Koh Trong island is Cambodia are incredible. mellow, family-friendly Koh a relaxing place to experi- The 300-year chronology Rong Sanloem has some ence a homestay or explore of its construction also tropical hideaway resorts on two wheels. North of offers an insight into the and gentle, shallow bays. Kratie lies the Mekong metamorphosis of carving There are more islands Discovery Trail, with ad- and sculpture during the strung along the coast, ventures and experiences Angkorian period. It’s all including the Koh Sdach themed around the mother about location, though, archipelago and large, river, including community- and it doesn’t get better almost undeveloped Koh based homestays, bicycle than this. Kong. rides and boat trips.

13 9 ANDREA PISTOLESI / GETTY IMAGES © PL A N YO U R TRI P C ambodia’ s T op 1 0 Khmer Cuisine 10 10 Khmer cuisine GUENTER FISCHER / GETTY IMAGES © (p339) is an un- expected epicurean adven- ture that remains under the culinary radar. Amok (baked fish with lemon- grass, chilli and coco- nut; pictured right) is the national dish, but sumptu- ous seafood and fresh-fish dishes are plentiful, includ- ing Kep crab infused with Kampot pepper. It wouldn’t be Asia without street snacks, and Cambodia delivers everything from noodles (mee) and congee (bobor; rice porridge) to deep-fried tarantulas and roasted crickets, some of which can be sampled on a foodie tour in Siem Reap.

1 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p347) Currency When to Go Riel (r); US dollars (US$) # universally accepted Siem Reap # Sen Monorom # Language GO Nov–Aug GO Year-round Khmer; English and Phnom Penh Chinese widely spoken, GO Year-round # plus some French Sihanoukville # # Kep Visas GO Nov–Jun GO Nov–Jul A one-month tourist Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons visa costs US$30 on arrival and requires one High Season Shoulder Low Season passport-sized photo. (Nov–Mar) (Jul & Aug) (Apr–Jun & Easily extendable busi- Sep & Oct) ness visas are available ¨¨Cool and windy, ¨¨Wet in most parts for US$35. with almost of Cambodia, with ¨¨April and May Mediterranean high humidity, but spells hot season, Money temperatures; the the landscapes are when the mercury best all-round time to emerald green. hits 40°C and visitors ATMs widely available, be here. ¨¨The South Coast melt. including in all major ¨¨Book accom- can be busy as ¨¨September and tourist centres and pro- modation in advance Western visitors October can be wet, vincial capitals. Credit during the peak escape for summer but awesome storms cards accepted by many Christmas and New holidays while school and cloud formations hotels and restaurants Year period. is out. accompany the in larger cities. deluge. Mobile Phones Roaming is possible but is expensive. Local SIM cards and unlocked mobile phones readily available. Time Indochina Time Zone (GMT/UTC plus seven hours)

15 Useful Websites Daily Costs Arriving in PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K now Cambodia Lonely Planet (www.lonely Budget: planet.com) The online authority less than US$50 Phnom Penh International on travel in the Mekong region. ¨¨Cheap guesthouse room: Airport (p358) The airport is Phnom Penh Post (www. US$5–10 7km west of central Phnom phnompenhpost.com) Cambo- ¨¨Local meals and street eats: Penh. Official taxis/remork- dia’s newspaper of record. US$1–3 motos (tuk tuks) to anywhere in Travelfish (www.travelfish. ¨¨Local buses: US$2–3 per the city cost a flat US$12/9 org) Opinionated articles and 100km (30 minutes to one hour). reviews. Move to Cambodia (www. Midrange: Siem Reap International movetocambodia.com) Insight- US$50–200 Airport (p358) The airport is ful blog on living and working in ¨¨Air-con hotel room: 7km from the town centre; taxis Cambodia. US$15–50 cost US$9 (15 minutes). A trip to ¨¨Decent local restaurant the town centre on the back of a Cambodia Tribunal Monitor meal: US$5–10 moto (motorcycle taxi) is about (www.cambodiatribunal.org) ¨¨Local tour guide per day: US$3. Many city hotels and Detailed coverage of the Khmer US$25 guesthouses offer a free airport Rouge trials. pick-up service with advance Top End: bookings. Important more than US$200 Land borders Shared with Laos, Numbers ¨¨Boutique hotel or resort: Thailand and Vietnam; Cam- US$50–500 bodian visas are available on Drop the %0 from a regional ¨¨Gastronomic meal with arrival. Most borders are open (city) code when calling Cambo- drinks: US$25–50 during the core hours of 7am dia from another country. ¨¨4WD rental per day: to 5pm. Overcharging for the US$60–120 Cambodian visa is very common Cambodia %855 at the borders with Thailand. code Opening Hours Poipet and Cham Yeam (Koh %001 Kong) are particularly notorious, International Opening hours can vary so some travellers like the con- access code %117 throughout the year. These are venience of arranging an e-visa %118 high-season opening hours and in advance. Police %119 may decrease in the low season. Banks 8am–3.30pm Monday to Getting Around Fire Friday, Saturday mornings Bars 5pm–late Bus The most popular form of Ambulance Government offices 7.30– transport for most travellers, 11.30am and 2–5pm Monday connecting all major towns and Exchange Rates to Friday cities. Restaurants 7am–9pm or meal Car Private car or 4WD is an Australia A$1 3031r times affordable option for those who Canada C$1 3048r Shops 8am–6pm daily value time above money. Euro zone €1 4480r Motorbike An amazing way to Japan ¥100 3549r travel for experienced riders. New Zealand NZ$1 3700r Air Domestic flights link Phnom Thailand 1B 115r Penh and Siem Reap. UK UK£1 5688r Boat Less common than in the USA US$1 3994r old days of bad roads, but Siem Reap to either Battambang or For current exchange rates see www.xe.com. For much more on getting around, see p361

16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd If You Like… Temples Koh Kong There’s no shortage Water Features of dreamy beaches on practi- Angkor Wat The one and only – cally uninhabited Koh Kong Mekong Discovery Trail See the mother temple that puts all Island and the cluster of islands rare freshwater dolphins, cycle others in the shade, with epic just off Botum Sakor National around remote Mekong islands bas-reliefs and iconic apsaras Park. (p178) or experience a local family (nymphs; p144). Kep Cambodia’s original beach homestay. (p283) Ta Prohm Nature has run riot resort, Kep was devastated by Tonlé Sap Discover floating here, where iconic tree roots are war but is back from the brink villages, bamboo skyscrapers, locked in a muscular embrace with boutique resorts, seafood flooded forests and rare birdlife with ancient stones. It’s the specialities and the backpacker with a boat trip on Cambodia’s stuff of Indiana Jones fantasies. beach of Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Great Lake. (p127) (p158) Island; p219). Boeng Yeak Lom Small but Prasat Preah Vihear The most perfectly formed, this jungle- mountainous of all the Khmer Epicurean clad crater lake is Cambodia’s mountain temples, it is perched Experiences most inviting natural swimming imperiously on the cliff-face of pool, located in the heart of the Dangkrek Mountains. (p260) Phnom Penh Dine to make a dif- Ratanakiri Province. (p286) Sambor Prei Kuk The pre- ference at one of Phnom Penh’s Bou Sraa Waterfall One of Angkorian capital of Isanapura many training restaurants to Cambodia’s biggest set of falls, was the first temple city in the help the disadvantaged. (p62) this roars out of the jungle in Mekong region and is a chrono- Siem Reap Try one of the new remote Mondulkiri Province and logical staging post on the road specialist foodie tours or browse now includes the breathtaking to Angkor. (p267) the lively restaurants of the Old Mayura Zipline. (p300) Market area, choosing from Islands & Beaches exotic barbecues, mod Khmer Markets & cuisine and stop-and-dip market Shopping Sihanoukville King of the stalls. (p107) Cambodian beach resorts, with Sihanoukville Sample suc- Russian Market & Psar Thmei a headland ringed by squeaky culent seafood at Cambodia’s Phnom Penh is home to the white sands and azure waters. leading beach resort, including most markets in the country, (p184) fresh crab, prawns and squid, including the iconic Psar Thmei Koh Rong & Koh Rong San- cooked up with Kampot pepper. and the shopping magnet that loem Up-and-coming islands (p194) is the Russian Market. Throw in near Sihanoukville with long Battambang Discover the good-cause shops, designer silk and lonely white-sand beaches, delights of Cambodian cooking boutiques and some bustling backpacker and flashpacker with a cheap and cheerful cook- malls, and you can shop till you resorts, plus diving. (p202) ing class in this relaxed riverside drop. (p79) town. (p242)

17 RENE DROUYER / GETTY IMAGES © Psar Chaa Temple town (aka PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y ou L ik e … Siem Reap) is a major shopping destination, especially popular for its Psar Chaa (Old Market; p119). The town is also dotted with creative-clothing boutiques and shops supporting commu- nity projects. (p118) Battambang’s Galleries There’s an emerging art scene in up-and- coming Battambang, with several galleries selling local artists’ work. It’s also home to Psar Nath, a landmark market from the French days. (p237) Otres Market It’s more a beach town than a shopping hub, but Sihanoukville’s Otres Village plays host to the weekly Otres Market, more Camden than Cambodia, and lots of fun on a Saturday evening. (p197) ELIZABETH BEARD / GETTY IMAGES © Nightlife Phnom Penh This is where Cambodia rocks. Warm up with a riverfront happy hour, bar crawl around the Bassac Lane area and end up in a nightclub. (p74) Siem Reap There are so many bars around the Old Market that one strip has earned itself the accolade of Pub St. Nearby lanes hide more mellow bars. Stay late for the alternative Angkor sunrise. (p115) Sihanoukville Home to a hedon- istic crowd, the beachfront strips of Serendipity and Occheuteal have long been party central on the coast, but Otres Beach is no slouch either. (p196) Top: Atmospheric Ta Prohm (p158), temples of Angkor Bottom: Buzzing Pub St (p115), Siem Reap

1 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Month by Month TOP EVENTS February and it’s like Christmas, Chinese New Year, New Year and a birthday all January/February Still one of the busiest rolled into one. Cambodians Khmer New Year, April times of year for tourist make offerings at wats, P’chum Ben, arrivals, February is also clean out their homes and September/October often the month for Chinese exchange gifts. It is a lively Bon Om Tuk, October/ and Vietnamese New Years. time to visit the country as November the Khmers go wild with z Giant Puppet water in the countryside. Angkor Wat Interna- Throngs of Khmers flock to tional Half Marathon, Parade Angkor for the Sangkranta December This colourful annual Festival, and it’s absolute fundraising event (www. madness at most temples, January giantpuppetproject.com) so avoid the celebration if takes place in Siem Reap. you want a quiet, reflective This is peak tourist season Local organisations, or- Angkor experience. That in Cambodia with Phnom phanages and businesses said, it is nowhere near as Penh, Siem Reap and the come together to create excessive as in Thailand or South Coast heaving. giant puppets in the shape Laos, so it might seem tame Chinese and Vietnamese of animals, deities and con- by comparison. New Years sometimes fall in temporary characters, and this month too. the whole ensemble winds May its way along the Siem z Chaul Chnam Reap River like a scene This is the beginning of the from the Mardi Gras. low season for visitors as Chen (Chinese New the monsoon arrives (and Year) April lasts till October), but there The Chinese inhabitants may be a last blast of hot of Cambodia celebrate This is the most important weather to welcome mango their New Year somewhere month in the calendar season and some delicious between late January and for Khmers, as the New ripe fruits. mid-February – for the Viet- Year comes in the middle namese, this is Tet. As many of April. For tourists it’s a z Chat Preah of Phnom Penh’s businesses possible month to avoid, as are run by Chinese-Khmers, the mercury regularly hits Nengkal (Royal commerce grinds to a halt 40°C. Ploughing Ceremony) around this time and there Led by the royal family, the are lion dances all over z Chaul Chnam Royal Ploughing Ceremony town. Many Vietnamese is a ritual agricultural living in Cambodia return Khmer (Khmer New festival marking the tradi- to their homeland for a Year) tional beginning of the week or more. This is a three-day celebra- rice-growing season. It tion of the Khmer New Year, takes place in early May in

z Angkor Photo 19 front of the National Mu- October Festival PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month seum, near the Royal Palace In Siem Reap, resident and in Phnom Penh, and the The rains often linger regional photographers royal oxen are said to have a long into October and descend on the temples and nose for whether it will be a this has led to some team up with local youths good harvest or a bad one. major flooding in Siem to teach them the tricks Reap in recent years. of the trade (www.angkor- z Visakha Puja However, the countryside photo.com). Photography is extraordinarily green at exhibitions are staged all (Buddha Day) this time. over town. A celebration of Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and z Bon Om Tuk z Kampot Writers & parinibbana (passing). Activities are centred on (Water Festival) Readers Festival wats. The festival falls on Celebrating the epic victory Launched in 2015, this the eighth day of the fourth of Jayavarman VII over the festival (www.kampot moon (May or June) and Chams, who occupied Ang- writersfestival.com) brings is best observed at Angkor kor in 1177, this festival also four days of literary dis- Wat, where you can see marks the extraordinary cussions, poetry readings, candle-lit processions of natural phenomenon of the art exhibitions, concerts monks. reversal of the current of and creative workshops to Tonlé Sap River. It’s one of Kampot. September the most important festi- vals in the Khmer calendar December Traditionally the wettest and is a wonderful, chaotic month in Cambodia, time to be in Phnom Penh Christmas and New Year are September is usually a time or Siem Reap. Boat races the peak of the peak season of sporadic flooding along are held on the Tonlé Sap at Angkor and leading the Mekong. The calendar’s and Siem Reap Rivers, beach resorts; book a long second most important with each boat colourfully way ahead. Sign up for a festival, P’chum Ben, decorated and holding 40 half marathon or bike ride if usually falls in this month. rowers. As many as two you fancy doing something million people flood the for charity. z P’chum Ben capital for the fun and frol- ics; book ahead for accom- 2 Angkor Wat (Festival of the Dead) modation. Sadly, this event This festival is a kind of was marred by tragedy in International Half All Souls’ Day, when re- 2010 when 350 people died Marathon spects are paid to the dead in a stampede on a bridge This half marathon (www. through offerings made connecting the city with angkormarathon.org) at wats. Offerings include nearby Koh Pich (Diamond has been a fixture in the paper money, candles, flow- Island). The event was Angkor calendar for more ers and incense, as well as cancelled for three years in than 15 years. Choose from food and drink, all passed a row, but was reinstated a 21km half marathon, a through the medium of the in 2014. 10km fun run or various monks. P’chum Ben lasts bicycle races and rides. It’s for several days and devout November hard to imagine a better Buddhists are expected backdrop to a road race to visit seven wats during November brings the dry, than the incredible temples the festival. Head to the windy season and signals of Angkor. Launched in village of Vihear Sour in the start of the best period 2014, there is now also Kandal Province, about to be in the country (which a full Angkor Empire 35km northeast of Phnom extends through until Marathon (www.angkor Penh, to witness authentic January or February). Bon empiremarathon.org) held bareback buffalo racing Om Tuk often comes around in August. and traditional Khmer in November. wrestling.

20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Plan Your Trip ARTIE PHOTOGRAPHY (ARTIE NG) / GETTY IMAGES © Itineraries Ta Prohm •#KbÉal Spean Bayon •# •# •# Beng Mealea Angkor Wat•# •# Siem Reap TSoanpl é É •# Sambor Prei Kuk É •# Kompong Thom É É Gulf É É _# PHNOM VIETNAM Thaoilfand Bokor Hill •# Station PENH 100 km Sihanoukville •# Kampot •# •# Kep 50 miles f# R Phnom Da e# 0 0 2WEEKS Cambodia Snapshot This is the ultimate journey, via array of eateries and some safe street food temples, beaches and the capital. It eating. There’s also superb shopping at can be run in any direction, but it is the Psar Tuol Tom Pong, and a night shift best followed to the letter, starting that never sleeps. in the capital, exploring the coastline and winding up at the world’s most Take a fast boat to the hilltop temple impressive collection of temples, of Phnom Da, dating from the pre- Angkor. Angkorian time, and then continue south to the colonial-era town of Kampot, Hit Phnom Penh for its impressive which makes a good base for this area. National Museum and stunning Silver From here, visit the seaside town of Kep Pagoda. It’s home to the most eclectic din- (and Rabbit Island, just off the coast) and ing scene in Cambodia, with fine-dining nearby cave pagodas. It is also possible to Khmer restaurants, an international make a side trip to Bokor Hill Station or visit a pepper plantation.

21 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Bayon (p149), Angkor Thom Go west to Sihanoukville, Cambodia’s before venturing further afield to Kbal beach capital, to sample the seafood, dive Spean or jungle-clad Beng Mealea. or snorkel the nearby waters or just soak up the sun. Choose from party-central Save some time for soaking up Siem Serendipity Beach, chilled-out Otres Reap, one of the most diverse destina- Beach or the up-and-coming islands of tions in Cambodia, with a host of ac- Koh Rong or Koh Rong Sanloem. Back- tivities on tap. Everything from cooking track via Phnom Penh to Kompong classes to Vespa tours is on offer, and Thom and visit the pre-Angkorian brick some of these activities are a great way to temples of Sambor Prei Kuk. punctuate the temple tours. Finish at Angkor, a mind-­blowing expe- This trip can take two weeks at a steady rience that few other sights can compare pace or three weeks at a slow pace. Public with. See Angkor Wat, perfection in transport serves most of this route, al- stone; Bayon, weirdness in stone; and Ta though some of the side trips will require Prohm, nature triumphing over stone – chartered transport or a motorbike trip.

22 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries •#Banteay Srei Preah Khan ProhTma •# Bayon •# •# Angkor Wat •# Siem Rea•#p TSoanpl é É –# É ThGaoiulfalfnd e# 0 50 km PHNOM _# VIETNAM 0 25 miles PENH

23 AMIR GHASEMI WWW.FOCALFANTASY.COM / GETTY IMAGES © 1WEEK A Tale of Two Cities If time is tight, focus on the big hitters of PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, gateway to MARCUS LINDSTROM / GETTY IMAGES © the temples of Angkor. With two nights in the capital and three or four nights in Siem Top: Banteay Srei (p165), emples of Angkor; Reap, discover the best of modern and Bottom: Independence Monument (p45), Phnom Penh ancient Cambodia. Start out in Phnom Penh with a look at Cam- bodia’s contrasting history. Relive the glories of the past at the National Museum, home to the world’s finest collection of Angkorian sculpture, and the Royal Palace, housing a glittering array of priceless artefacts. Discover a darker past with a visit to the Tuol Sleng Museum and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, both profoundly depressing places but es- sential to understanding the modern political landscape of Cambodia. History aside, Phnom Penh is cool Cam- bodia, a dynamic if disorienting city of chic boutique hotels, funky fashion, contemporary cafes, fusion restaurants and hip bars, so spend at least two nights here to relish the scene. From the capital, take the 30-minute flight northwest to Siem Reap, or take a day-long road trip if you want to see more of the Cam- bodian countryside. The first order of business is to spend a couple of days touring the nearby temples of Angkor, including the headline names like Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm. Make sure you also allow some time to catch some of the support acts, like beauti- ful Banteay Srei and enormous Preah Khan. Add some activities to the mix with a zipline adventure at Flight of the Gibbon Angkor or a quad-bike ride through the rice fields. Or you could simply relax and enjoy fine dining and the lively bars in the town of Siem Reap. From authentic Khmer countryside cooking to fine French cuisine, the gastro- nomic scene in Siem Reap is something to be savoured. Extend your nights out here by exploring the lanes and alleys around Pub St. Visit one of the sumptuous spas in town to round out your stay. If you decide to travel overland between these two cities, the months from July to December are best for this – during this time the landscape is lush and green.

PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries24 DAVID HANNAH / GETTY IMAGES © 4WEEKS The Big One GRANT DIXON / GETTY IMAGES © Cambodia is a small country and even Top: Floating village (p229) near Battambang; though the roads are sometimes bad and Bottom: Elephant Valley Project (p298), travel can be slow, most of the highlights can Mondulkiri Province be visited in a month. Setting out from the hip capital that is Phnom Penh, pass through the bustling Mekong town of Kompong Cham before heading on to Kra- tie for an encounter with the elusive ­Irrawaddy river dolphins. Then it is time to make a tricky choice to experience the beauty of the north- east. To ensure maximum time elsewhere, choose between Ratanakiri Province and the volcanic crater lake of Boeng Yeak Lom, or Mondulkiri Province and the original Elephant Valley Project. Both offer primate experiences for those who fancy a bit of monkey business along the way. If you have a bit of ex- tra time up your sleeve, you could combine the two in a grand loop, now that the road between Sen Monorom and Ban Lung is in good shape. Next up, head to the south coast. Take your time and consider a few nights in Kep or on one of the nearby islands, and a boat trip from Sihanoukville to explore the up-and-coming islands off the coast. Turning back inland, check out Kirirom National Park, home to pine trees, black bears and some spectacular views of the Cardamom Mountains. Then it’s time to go northwest to charm- ing Battambang, one of Cambodia’s best- preserved colonial-era towns and a base from which to discover rural life. Take the prover- bial slow boat to Siem Reap, passing through stunning scenery along the snaking Sangker River, and turn your attention to the temples of Angkor. Visit all the greatest hits in and around An- gkor, but set aside some extra time to venture further to the rival capital of Koh Ker, which is cloaked in thick jungle, or Prasat Preah Vihear, a mountain temple perched precari- ously atop a cliff on the Thai border. Overlanders can run this route in reverse, setting out from Siem Reap and exiting Cam- bodia by river into Vietnam or Laos. Entering from Laos, divert east to Ratanakiri before heading south. Getting around is generally easy as there are buses on the big roads, taxis on the small roads and buzzing boats on the many rivers.

25 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Prasat LAOS Preah Vihear Ratanakiri •# •#Province •# Mondulkiri THAILAND É É Province É VIETNAM Temples of ÉÉ •# Koh Ker Angkor •# É 200 km É 100 miles Battambang f# É •# Siem É •# Reap É Kratie •# É Kompong Cham PHNOM •# É PENH _# ThGaoiulfalfnd Kirirom ÷# Phnom National RDa Park É Sihanoukville •# •# Kep e# 0 0

26 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Off the Beaten Track: Cambodia PL A N YO U R TRI P O F F T H E B E AT E N T R A C K PREK TOAL PREAH VIHEAR THAILAND BIRD SANCTUARY PROVINCE Venture to remote Prek Toal, gateway Prasat to a world-class bird sanctuary that Prasat Preah Vihear is king of the Preah provides refuge to some of the mountain temples with an incredible Vihear world's rarest large water birds, such clifftop setting. Other Angkorian as the milky stork and spot-billed sights worth an adventurous detour Choam pelican. (p126) include Koh Ker and Preah Khan. Ksant (p258) Sisophon Anlong Veng PREAH VIHEAR PROVINCE Koh Ker Preah Vihear City Battambang Preah Khan Siem Reap PREK TOAL Chong BIRD SANCTUARY Kneas Pailin Moung Tonlé Russei Sap Kompong KOH KONG Pursat Thom CONSERVATION CORRIDOR The Cardamom MoTuranttains are great for adventure travel. Engage in cCKohomi PCmhhuaantnigotry tourism activities around Romeas head deeper into the jungle with ecotourism initiatives around Thma Bang. (p179) Ko Kut PHNOM PENH Gulf of Thailand KKonohg Chi Phat KOH KONG CONSERVATION CORRIDOR KOH SDACH KSaomhit Gulf of Takeo ARCHIPELAGO Kompong Koh Rong Som Phnom Veal Den Renh Prek Chak KOH SDACH Sihanoukville Koh Tonsay ARCHIPELAGO Cambodia is behind Thailand when it Koh Phu Quoc comes to offshore island develop- Thmei Island ment. Use this to your advantage and explore some remote islands midway between Sihanoukville and Koh Kong. (p209)

27 00 3500mkimles RATANAKIRI PROVINCE LAOS Visit Conservation International's pioneering ecotourism project to spot the rare yellow-cheeked gibbon that inhabits Veun Sai-Siem Pang Conservation Area or delve deep into the interior of Virachey National Park. (p285) PL A N YO U R TRI P O F F T H E B E AT E N T R A C KVirachey River National Park Sen Veun Sai-Siem Pang RATANAKIRI Conservation Area PROVINCE Trapaeng Voen Sai Kriel Ban Lung Stung Treng MEKONG DISCOVERY TRAIL Mekong River Koh Nhek Kratie MONDULKIRI Chhlong PROVINCE Elephant Snuol Valley Moc Bai Project Baray VIETNAM Prey Veng Sre Khtum Kaam Samnor MONDULKIRI PROVINCE Elephants roam here, at least at the Elephant Valley Project where visitors can ‘walk with the herd’. There are also remote Bunong minority villlages, beautiful waterfalls, and gibbons and langurs in the wild. (p294) HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON) MEKONG DISCOVERY SOUTH CHINA SEA TRAIL This pioneering community tourism project in Kratie and Stung Treng provinces helps visitors connect with communities along the Mekong River through homestays and activities. (p283)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kompong Pluk (p126), a stilt village on the banks of the Tonlé Sap Plan Your Trip Outdoor Adventures Cambodia is catching up with its more developed neighbours and there are now more activities than ever to get that adrenaline buzz. Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have plenty of action, but the South Coast is making a name for itself with water sports and the northeast is the place for a walk on the wild side. Whether you are hiking, biking, ascending peaks or plumbing depths, Cambodia can deliver the action.

29 When to Go Where to Go November to February Chi Phat Explore the untamed rivers of the Carda- moms from this jungle base (p181), which includes This is the cooler dry season and the best the possibility of spotting rare Siamese crocs. time for strenuous activities like trekking and cycling. Higher altitude places like Mondulkiri Kampot The riverside town of Kampot (p210) and Ratanakiri are worth considering any offers boat trips up river to mangroves and down time of year because they’re always cooler, river to isolated beaches and the open sea. although they can get chilly at night. Mekong River The mother river flows through March to May the heart of Cambodia and offers some rewarding opportunities for discovering tranquil islands and The mercury regularly hits 40°C during the quiet homestays along the Mekong Discovery Trail hot season, so this is the perfect time to cool (p283). off with some water sports such as scuba diving, stand-up paddle-boarding or sailing, Tonlé Sap Explore floating villages (p127), flooded all down on the South Coast. forests (p128) and bird sanctuaries (p126) with a boat trip on the Great Lake. PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoor A d v e n t u res HUGO / GETTY IMAGES © June to October Cycling The wet season is not ideal for hiking or Cambodia is a great country for adventur- biking due to torrential downpours and the ous cyclists to explore. Given the country’s presence of leeches in many jungle areas. legendary potholes, a mountain bike However, it’s a great time for boat trips and is the best bet. Many roads remain in kayaking on Cambodia’s extensive network poor condition, but there is usually a flat of rivers. unpaved trail along the side. Travelling at such a gentle speed allows for much Boat Trips more interaction with the locals. Bicycles can be transported around the country With so much water around the country, in the back of pick-ups or on the roof of it’s hardly surprising that boat trips are minibuses. popular with visitors. Some of these are functional, such as travelling up the Tonlé Cycling around Angkor is a reward- Sap River from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, ing experience as it really helps to get or along the Sangker River from Siem a measure of the size and scale of the Reap to Battambang. There is a lot of temple complex. Mountain biking is likely water in Cambodia, particularly in the wet to take off in Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri season when the Mekong is in full flow Provinces in coming years, as there are and the Tonlé Sap at its maximum extent, some great trails. Guesthouses and hotels so when in Cambodia, do as the locals do throughout Cambodia rent out bicycles for and travel by boat. around US$2 per day, or US$7 to US$15 for an imported brand. Where to Go Battambang The beautiful countryside around Battambang (p236) is perfect for two-wheeled exploring. Chi Phat This ecotourism hub (p181) in the Carda- mom Mountains offers mountain biking on jungle trails to remote waterfalls. Mondulkiri Province The meeting of the hills is an appropriate name for this mountainous province and there are some great biking trails to Bunong villages (p301) and jungle waterfalls (p300).

30 PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoor A d v e n t u res QUAD BIKING Where to Go Quad bikes or ATVs are growing in Cardamom Mountains Not for the faint-hearted, popularity in Cambodia thanks to the the Cardamom Mountains offer some tough jungle prevalence of dirt roads across the trails north to Pailin or Pursat. Seek an experi- country. Siem Reap has three opera- enced operator (p363). tors (p101) offering countryside tours around temple town. Phnom Penh Kampot The landscapes around Kampot (p210) has one quad bike outfit (p56), which include rice fields, salt pans, pepper farms, karst offers a very different experience to peaks and Bokor Hill Station (p218). city life. Up in Mondulkiri, a new op- erator (p297) gives you the chance Mondulkiri Province The rolling hills of Mondulkiri to explore the hilltops and viewpoints are perfect for dirt biking, and include the stunning around Sen Monorom. Prices for road that follows the Seima Protected Forest quad biking range from US$25 per (p301) to Sen Monorom (p295). hour to more than US$100 for a full- day adventure. Preah Vihear Province Get your kicks on Cambodia’s Route 66 (NH66), which runs from Beng Mealea (p168) to the remote temple of Preah Khan (p264). Or ascend to the realm of the gods at Prasat Preah Vihear (p262). Temples of Angkor The temples (p129) can get Trekking & Walking very busy in peak season, so leave the crowds behind and follow local jungle trails (p102). Organ- Trekking is not the first activity most ised tours are available. people would associate with Cambodia, due to the ongoing presence of land mines, Dirt Biking but there are plenty of safe areas in the country – including the nascent national For experienced riders, Cambodia is one parks – where walking can be enjoyed. of the most rewarding off-road biking The northeastern provinces of Mondulkiri destinations in the world. The roads are and Ratanakiri, with their wild, natural generally considered some of the worst in scenery, abundant waterfalls and ethnic- Asia (or best in Asia for die-hard biking minority populations, are emerging as the enthusiasts). There are incredible rides country’s leading trekking destinations. all over the country, particularly in the provinces of Preah Vihear, Mondulkiri, Cambodia is steadily establishing a Ratanakiri and the Cardamom Moun- network of national parks with visitor tains, but it is best to stay away from the facilities; Bokor National Park, Kirirom main highways as traffic and dust make National Park and Ream National Park them a choking experience. The advan- all promise trekking potential, while Vi- tage of motorcycle travel is that it allows rachey National Park in Ratanakiri has for complete freedom of movement and multiday treks. Chi Phat and the Carda- you can stop in small villages that West- mom Mountains also offer the possibility erners rarely visit. It is possible to take of a walk on the wild side. motorcycles upcountry for tours, but only experienced off-road bikers should take to Angkor is emerging as a good place for these roads with a dirt bike. gentle walks between the temples; as visi- tor numbers skyrocket, this is one way to Motorcycles are available for hire in experience peace and solitude. Phnom Penh and some other popular tour- ist destinations. In Siem Reap, motorcycle Where to Go rental is forbidden, so anyone planning rides in the northwest will need to ar- Koh Kong Province Coastal gateway to the Carda- range a bike elsewhere. Costs are US$5 moms, Koh Kong has several trekking companies to US$10 per day for a 100cc motorcycle offering jungle treks around Tatai (p179). and around US$10 to US$25 for a 250cc Mondulkiri Province One of the most rewarding dirt bike. trekking destinations in Cambodia thanks to cooler climes, Bunong minority encounters (p295) and

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoor A d v e n t u res31 Top: Northern gate ofROC8JAS / GETTY IMAGES © Angkor Thom (p148) Bottom: Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary (p126) HAUKE DRESSLER / ROBERT HARDING ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoor A d v e n t u res32 ROCK CLIMBING thundering waterfalls, not to mention tracking elephants (p298) or gibbons (p301). Rock climbing is very much in its infan- cy compared with neighbouring Laos, Ratanakiri Province Choose from gentle treks to Thailand and Vietnam, but there is a ethnic minority villages or hard-core treks into the climbing outfit down in Kampot Prov- heart of Virachey National Park (p293). ince where the landscape is peppered with karst outcrops. Climbodia (p211) Temples of Angkor From a base in Siem Reap, ex- offers cabled routes up Phnom Kbal plore Angkor Thom (p148) on foot or ascend to the Romeas, about 5km south of Kampot River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean (p166). town, from US$35 for a half day. Water Sports Kampot Explore the river and mangroves on a stand-up paddle-board (p211), or laze around in an Snorkelling and diving are available off inner tube if that sounds like too much hard work. the coast of Sihanoukville, and while the Sihanoukville Water sports capital of Cambodia scenery may not be as spectacular as in (p187); choose from diving, snorkelling, wind- Indonesia or the Philippines, there is still surfing, wake-boarding, jet skiing and more. plenty out there in the deep blue yonder. Southern Islands Koh Rong and Koh Rong San- It’s best to venture to the more remote loem (p202) provide an up-and-coming base for dive sites, such as Koh Tang and Koh serious divers wanting some big-fish action. Prins, by staying overnight on a boat. There are many unexplored areas off the Wildlife Spotting coast between Koh Kong and Sihanouk- ville that could one day put Cambodia on Cambodia is home to rich and varied the dive map of Asia. wildlife that has somehow survived the dramatic events that engulfed the country As the Cambodian coast takes off, there in the past decades. Big cats, small cats, are more water sports available, including elephants, primates and some curious boating, windsurfing and kitesurfing off critters all call the Cambodian jungle their the beaches of Sihanoukville. In Kampot, home, and it’s possible to see them across stand-up paddle-boarding has taken off in the country. Birdwatching is a big draw, as a big way and it’s a great way to appreci- Cambodia is home to some of the region’s ate the river scenery. rarest large waterbirds, including adju- tants, storks and pelicans. Where to Go Kep Hit the waterfront Sailing Club (p220) to rent a hobie cat sailing boat or windsurfer to explore the calm waters off the coast. ZIPLINING IN CAMBODIA Where to Go Ziplining has recently taken off in Cam- Kratie Province Extremely rare freshwater river bodia. Flight of the Gibbon Angkor dolphins inhabit stretches of the Mekong River (p98) offers the longest zipline course between Kratie (p279) and the Laos border. in the country with 10 lines and the chance to spot some gibbons in the Mondulkiri Province Walk with the herd at wild. Mayura Zipline (p300) is a new Elephant Valley Project (p294) or spot gibbons and adrenaline-fuelled adventure above doucs in the Seima Protected Forest (p301). the Bou Sraa Waterfall in Mondulkiri Province. There is also a zipline on Koh Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre So much Rong Island (p204) if you need more more than a zoo, this wildlife sanctuary (p90) of- than a beach buzz. Ziplining doesn’t fers behind-the-scenes tours to meet the animals. come cheap though – Flight of the Gib- bon Angkor charges around US$109 Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary Cambodia’s world-class per person and the Mayura Zipline bird sanctuary (p126); see rare waterbirds like the around US$69 per person. spot-billed pelican, black headed ibis and painted stork.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 33 # #_ Regions Phnom Penh Siem Reap at a Glance Dining Temples Bars Dining Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s Shopping Activities resurgent capital, is the place to check the pulse of contemporary Creative Divine life. Siem Reap, gateway to the Cuisine Inspiration majestic temples of Angkor, is French bistros It’s not just all starting to give the capital a run abound, and out- about Angkor Wat. for its money with sophisticated standing fusion True, it’s one of the restaurants, funky bars and chic restaurants blend world’s most iconic boutiques. World Heritage Site the best of Cambo- buildings, but down Angkor houses some of the most dian and European the road are the spectacular temples on earth. flavours. Ubiqui- enigmatic faces of tous Cambodian the Bayon and the Down on the South Coast are barbecues offer a jungle temple of Ta several up-and-coming beach local experience, Prohm. resorts and a smattering of tropi- or try gourmet cal islands that are just beginning Khmer cuisine in a Eclectic to take off, unlike those of neigh- designer restaurant. Epicurean bouring countries. Northwestern Experiences Cambodia is home to Battam- Happy Hour Contemporary bang, a slice of more traditional Get started early in Khmer cuisine, life, and several remote jungle a breezy establish- spiced-up street temples. The country’s wild east is ment overlooking food, fine French where elephants roam, waterfalls the Mekong, move dining and more: thunder and freshwater dolphins on to a live-music Siem Reap is a din- can be found. bar, and dance till ing destination in dawn in a club. itself. Continue the Phnom Penh is 24/7, night along Pub St one of the liveliest and the gentrified capitals in Asia. lanes beyond. Chic Boutiques Adventures Choose from colour- Beyond Angkor ful local markets Take to the skies where bargains by helicopter to abound or check see Angkor from out the impressive a different angle. collections of local Zipline through the designers. There jungle or quad bike are plenty of good- through rice fields. cause shops where Experience a cook- your spending ing class or unwind assists Cambodia. with a massage. p36 p93

34 PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance South Coast North- Eastern western Cambodia Beaches Cambodia Activities Wildlife Dining Temples Culture Towns River Life Tropical Bliss Boat Trips Claim a strip of The Wild Things sand all to yourself Beyond the View rare fresh­ or relax in a beach- Crowds water river dolphins front bar. Choose Heard enough around Kratie, life in the fast lane about Angkor Wat? walk with a herd in Sihanoukville, Don’t forget the pre- of elephants in the slow lane in Kep Angkorian capital ­Mondulkiri or or forget the roads of Sambor Prei Kuk, spot primates in altogether and es- the jungle temples community-based cape to the islands. of Preah Vihear forest treks around Province and at- Mondulkiri or Land or Sea mospheric Banteay ­Ratanakiri. National parks and Chhmar. protected areas dot A World Apart the region, offering The Real Northeast Cam- trekking, mountain Cambodia bodia is home to biking, kayaking, Riverside Battam- a mosaic of ethnic rock climbing and bang has some of minorities. Encoun- kitesurfing. Water the country’s best- ter the Bunong sports abound or preserved French people of Mon- venture under- architecture, while dulkiri or venture water to experience Kompongs Chhnang up jungle rivers to snorkelling or scuba and Thom are off visit the remote diving. the tourist trail and tribal cemeteries in offer a slice of real Ratanakiri. Seafood Cambodia. Specialities The Mighty Each coastal town Floating Mekong has its speciality. In Villages The Mekong cuts Kep it’s delectable One of the best boat through the region’s crab. In Takeo it’s rides in Cambodia heart and includes lobster. In Kampot links Battambang the Mekong Dis- it’s anything cooked to Siem Reap fol- covery Trail, a with the region’s lowing the Sangker ­community tourism famous pepper. River. Explore the initiative. Beyond Sihanoukville largest floating the Mekong is the offers a seafood village on the Tonlé Tonlé Srepok tribu- e­ xtravaganza. Sap lake, Kompong tary, as depicted in Luong. Apocalypse Now. p172 p228 p270

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd On the Road Temples of Easternp2C7a0mbodia Angkor p129 ^# ^# Siemp9R3eap Northwestern Cambodia p228 #_ Phnopm36Penh Soupth17C2oast

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd កោះដាច់ ឧដងុ ្គ ទនល្ េបាទី ភន្ តំ ាម៉ៅ(សួនសតវ្ ) ភ្នំជីសូរ _#ឧទ្យានជាតិគិរីរមយ្ Phnom Penh % 023 / POP 2 MILLION / AREA 290 SQ KM Includes  Why Go? Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Phnom Penh (ភន្ ំពេញ): the name can’t help but conjure up Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 an image of the exotic. The glimmering spires of the Royal Drinking & Nightlife. . . 73 Palace, the fluttering saffron of the monks’ robes and the Koh Dach. . . . . . . . . . . . 88 luscious location on the banks of the mighty Mekong – this Udong. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 is the Asia many daydream about from afar. Tonlé Bati. . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Phnom Tamao Wildlife Cambodia’s capital can be an assault on the senses. Rescue Centre . . . . . . . 90 Motorbikes whiz through laneways without a thought for Phnom Chisor. . . . . . . . 91 pedestrians; markets exude pungent scents; and all the Kirirom National Park. . 91 while the sounds of life – of commerce, of survival – reverberate through the streets. But this is all part of the Best Places to Eat attraction. ¨¨Boat Noodle (p70) Once the ‘Pearl of Asia’, Phnom Penh’s shine was tar- ¨¨Chinese House (p63) nished by the impact of war and revolution. But the city ¨¨Deco (p72) has since risen from the ashes to take its place among the ¨¨Malis (p70) hip capitals of the region, with an alluring cafe culture, ¨¨Romdeng (p64) bustling bars and a world-class food scene. When to Go Rainfall inches/mm 16/400 Phnom Penh °C/°F Temp 40/104 30/86 12/300 Best Places to 20/68 8/200 Stay 10/50 4/100 ¨¨Eighty8 Backpackers (p57) 0/32 J F MAM J 0 J ASOND ¨¨Foreign Correspondents’ Club (p57) Jan & Feb The Sep & Oct Heavy Oct & Nov The holiday crush is rains provide wel- water festival Bon ¨¨Pavilion (p60) over and pleasant come relief from Om Tuk is one northeasterly searing sun; many giant street party ¨¨Raffles Hotel Le Royal breezes massage hotels offer steep on the banks of (p59) the riverfront. discounts. the river. ¨¨Rambutan Resort (p61)

37 St 70 Japanese Development Site Bridge (formerly Boeng Kak) e# 0 4441 km TSoSinsaloépwath Quay#6SunsetBoat 0 St 47 Cruise 0.5 miles St 315 444See North Phnom Penh Map (p52) Ph n o m Pe n h H I S T O R Y St 289 Phnom 44 44 44RoyPahlnUonKmiavePmrespnituhycohfeaRKursosmianBBlvldvd Penh MReikvoenrg JawaharlalBlvd £# Mao Tse Toung Blvd Nightlife ChGaarulellse dBelvd #4 #1 National Museum Silver Pagoda #3 Blvd f# Monireth Local MonivongBlvdSihanouk Blvd Ferry Crossing Norodom Blvd Mao Tse Tuol Sleng #2 (KDoiahmPoicnhd Museum Island) Toung Blvd See South Phnom Penh Map (p46) #5 Russian Market Tonlé Bassac See Russian Market Map (p58) D#2 Killing Fields of Choeung Ek (8km) MoBnriivdogneg Phnom Penh Highlights 1 Discovering the world’s 3 Being dazzled by the a late-night cameo in a finest collection of Khmer 5000 silver floor tiles of the legendary disco. sculpture at the stunning Silver Pagoda (p40), part of 5 Shopping till you drop National Museum (p42). the Royal Palace. (of heat exhaustion) at 2 Delving into the dark 4 Diving into Phnom bounteous Russian Market side of Cambodian history Penh’s frenzied nightlife (p79). with visits to the Tuol Sleng (p73) with a happy-hour 6 Cruising the mighty Museum (p43) and the cocktail, a bar crawl and Mekong, cocktail in hand, on Killing Fields (p44). a sunset boat cruise (p50). History In the 1430s, Angkor was abandoned and Phnom Penh chosen as the site of the new Legend has it that the city of Phnom Penh Cambodian capital. Angkor was poorly sit- was founded when an old woman named uated for trade and subject to attacks from Penh found four Buddha images that had the Siamese (Thai) kingdom of Ayuthaya. come to rest on the banks of the Mekong Phnom Penh commanded a more central River. She housed them on a nearby hill, position in the Khmer territories and was and the town that grew up here came to be perfectly located for riverine trade with known as Phnom Penh (Hill of Penh). Laos and China via the Mekong Delta.

38 Greater Phnom Penh ABCD SStt333375 St 617 4444DSt 70 KoDach St 528 Ferry (5km) St 566 St 281 StS2t82385 St 592 Phnom Penh  1 4444St 528 3 StS3t133S1t5317 #ã 11 #ý St 291 St 289 4444St 566 2 St 287 4444St 614 DevBe(oflooenprmmg eKernalytk)Site St 598 St 592 4444 St 608 Russian Blvd Royal University 5 4444St 112 St 114 # of Phnom Penh St 118 3 St 122 St 169 #– (2.5km); Kampuchea Krom Blvd St 134 Kambol Kart Raceway 14km) St 261St 132St 259 St 257 St 253 St 156 St 213 D JawaharalSNte2h1r9u Blvd î# St 180 St 182 17 Mao Tse Toung Blvd St 182 St 186 St 247 St 202 St 223 (St 4 St 192 St 234 SSSttt222101048 215) St 2 30 St 271 St 336 St 2S5Mt52o˜#4n13i0retMhaSBoltvTd3s3e6TS2›#otS0u3tn43g83SB8tl3v1d8 St 2S9St8t228864 5 St 193 6 St 173 St 199 St 328 St 271 St 197 St St 374 St 187 388 Parkway Square 7 Nature Cambodia (8km); St 456 Tonlé Bati (26km); St 464 Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre (33km); D Takeo (70km) ABCD

39 e# 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles EF G H 1 #æ Kingdom Brewery (1km); 1 St 143 Prek Pnov Bridge; (11km); St 1074 Ø# Prek Kdam Bridge (30km); 4413 19 St 82 7 Udong (35km) Tonlé Sap Rd î# D í# 12 ú# 6ÿ# #2 Sisowath Quay 8 ú#ý# St 47 St 86 Phnom Penh  44 St 75 Monivong Blvd See North Phnom Penh Map (p52) Mekong River 44 St 93 St 94 44Phnom St 88 Tonlé Sap St 90 St 13 2 Penh £# St 92 St 118 St 130 St 96 SSSttt111000268 St 110 MonivongStB1l0vd7 St 67 St 51 44 SSSttt113144648 St 53 St 63 St 154 See South Phnom Penh Map (p46) 10 CShta1r6le4PssdaerGOaulle Blvd û# Russei St 172 St 198St 137 3 St 139 St 242 St 276 SStt117748 St 280 St 7SSSttt122800408SSt 2t 42044St 246 2Cycle St 292 St 264 St 258 Cambodia (2km); St 300 St 19St 214 4 Norodom BlvdSt 222 St 304 SSt t222480 St 242 St 254 DSmango (17km) St 310 St 51 St 320 Monivong Blvd St 141 StS2i5h2anouk Blvd ú# SSSttt222878828 GOLDEN St 29 9 ST AREA St 21 5 BOENG St 9 KENG KANG TONLÉ DISTRICT BASSAC St 51St 302 DISTRICT St 57 St 63 St 85 St 105 St 310 Norodom Blvd St 322 Sa md ech Sothearos Blvd BOENG KENG KANG DISTRICT See RussiaSntM3a6r0ket Map (p58) St 360 Koh Pich (DIsialamnodn) d St 376 St 71 St 380 St 386 6 St 390 St 349080 St 396 St Mao Tse Toung Blvd St 410 St 426 St 428 St 422 St 436 Tonlé Bassac St 432 St 440 D í# 16 7 St 454 St 436 í# 18 St 460 St 63 St 468 St 99 í#í# Neak Luong (60km); St 466 14 15 Vietnam Border (140km) St 476 E F G H

40 Ph n o m Pe n h S i g hts Greater Phnom Penh Sihanouk’s rule: by the time he was over- thrown in 1970, the population of Phnom æ Sights Penh was approximately 500,000. As the Viet- 1 French Embassy ....................................E1 nam War spread into Cambodian territory, the city’s population swelled with refugees Ø Activities, Courses & Tours and reached nearly three million in early 2 Cruising Boats........................................F1 1975. The Khmer Rouge took the city on 17 3 Long Beach Plaza Hotel....................... C1 April 1975, and as part of its radical revo- 4 O Spa .......................................................E1 lution immediately forced the entire popu- 5 Royal University of Phnom Penh ........B3 lation into the countryside. Whole families were split up on those first fateful days of ÿ Sleeping ‘liberation’. 6 Sangkum.................................................E1 During the time of Democratic Kampu- ú Eating chea, many tens of thousands of former 7 Chinese House .......................................F1 Phnom Penhois – including the vast ma- 8 Exchange ................................................E1 jority of the capital’s educated residents – 9 Koh Pich Barbecues ............................ H5 were killed. The population of Phnom Penh during the Khmer Rouge regime was never û Drinking & Nightlife more than about 50,000, a figure made up 10 Tonle Sab Sky Bar ............................... H3 of senior party members, factory workers and trusted military leaders. ý Entertainment 11 Apsara Arts Association ......................A2 Repopulation of the city began when the 12 Doors .......................................................E1 Vietnamese arrived in 1979, although at first it was strictly controlled by the new govern- ï Information ment. During much of the 1980s, cows were 13 Calmette Hospital..................................E1 more common than cars on the streets of the French Embassy ............................(see 1) capital. The 1990s were boom years for some: 14 Indian Embassy..................................... F7 along with the arrival of the UN Transitional 15 Indonesian Embassy ............................ F7 Authority in Cambodia (Untac) came US$2 16 Japanese Embassy...............................G7 billion (much of it in salaries for expats). 17 Royal Phnom Penh Hospital................A4 18 Thai Embassy........................................G7 Phnom Penh has really begun to change in 19 UK Embassy ...........................................E1 the last 15 years, with roads being repaired, sewage pipes laid, parks inaugurated and ï Transport riverbanks reclaimed. Business is booming 20 Olympic Express ...................................C5 in many parts of the city, with skyscrapers 21 Psar Dang Kor Taxi Park......................C5 under development, investors rubbing their hands with the sort of glee once reserved By the mid-16th century, trade had turned for Bangkok or Hanoi, and swanky new res- Phnom Penh into a regional power. Indone- taurants opening. Phnom Penh is back, and sian and Chinese traders were drawn to the bigger changes are set to come. city in large numbers. A century later, how- ever, the landlocked and increasingly isolat- 1 Sights ed kingdom had become little more than a buffer between the ascendant Thais and Vi- Phnom Penh, a relatively small city, is easy etnamese, until the French took over in 1863. to navigate as it is laid out in a numbered grid. The most important cultural sights The French protectorate in Cambodia can be visited on foot and are located near gave Phnom Penh the layout we know to- the riverfront in the most beautiful part of day. They divided the city into districts or the city. Most other sights are also fairly quartiers – the French and European trad- central, just a short remork-moto (tuk tuk) ers inhabited the area north of Wat Phnom ride from the riverfront. between Monivong Blvd and Tonlé Sap Riv- er. By the time the French departed in 1953, oRoyal Palace PALACE they had left many important landmarks, including the Royal Palace, the National (ព្រះបរមរាជវាងំ ; Map p42; Sothearos Blvd; ad- Museum, Psar Thmei (Central Market) and mission incl camera 25,000r, guide per hr US$10; many impressive government ministries. h7.30-11am & 2-5pm) With its classic Khmer roofs and ornate gilding, the Royal Palace The city grew quickly in the post- dominates the diminutive skyline of Phnom independence peacetime years of Norodom Penh. It’s a striking structure near the river-

41 front, bearing a remarkable likeness to its ¨¨Silver Pagoda Complex Ph n o m Pe n h S i g hts counterpart in Bangkok. From the palace compound you enter the Silver Pagoda complex through its north Being the official residence of King Siha- gate. The Silver Pagoda (Map p42; Samdech moni, parts of the massive palace compound Sothearos Blvd; incl in admission to Royal Palace; are closed to the public. Visitors are allowed h7.30-11am & 2-5pm) was so named in hon- to visit only the throne hall and a clutch of our of the floor, which is covered with more buildings surrounding it. Adjacent to the than 5000 silver tiles weighing 1kg each, palace, the Silver Pagoda complex is also adding up to five tonnes of gleaming sil- open to the public. ver. You can sneak a peek at some near the entrance – most are covered for their pro- Visitors need to wear shorts that reach to tection. It is also known as Wat Preah Keo the knee, and T-shirts or blouses that reach (Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha). to the elbow; otherwise they will have to hire an appropriate covering. The palace It was originally constructed of wood gets very busy on Sundays, when country- in 1892 during the rule of King Norodom, side Khmers come to pay their respects, but who was apparently inspired by Bangkok’s being amid the thronging locals can be a fun Wat Phra Keo, and was rebuilt in 1962. The way to experience the place. Silver Pagoda was preserved by the Khmer Rouge to demonstrate its concern for the ¨¨Palace Compound conservation of Cambodia’s cultural riches All visitors enter into the eastern portion to the outside world. Although more than of the palace compound near the Chan half of the pagoda’s contents were lost, Chaya Pavilion. Performances of classical stolen or destroyed in the turmoil that Cambodian dance were once staged in this followed the Vietnamese invasion, what pavilion, which is sometimes lit up at night remains is spectacular. This is one of the to commemorate festivals or anniversaries. few places in Cambodia where bejewelled objects embodying some of the brilliance The main attraction in the palace com- and richness of Khmer civilisation can still pound is the Throne Hall. Topped by a be seen. 59m-high tower inspired by the Bayon at Angkor, it was inaugurated in 1919 by King The staircase leading to the Silver Pa- Sisowath. goda is made of Italian marble. Inside, the Emerald Buddha, believed to be made of The Throne Hall is used for coronations Baccarat crystal, sits on a gilded pedes- and ceremonies such as the presentation of tal high atop the dais. In front of the dais credentials by diplomats. Many of the items stands a life-sized gold Buddha decorated once displayed here were destroyed by the with 2086 diamonds, the largest of which, Khmer Rouge. set in the crown, is a whopping 25 carats. Created in the palace workshops around South of the Throne Hall, check out the 1907, the gold Buddha weighs in at 90kg. curious iron Napoleon III Pavilion. Given to King Norodom by Napoleon III of France, Along the walls of the pagoda are exam- it was hardly designed with the Cambodian ples of extraordinary Khmer artisanship, climate in mind. PHNOM PENH IN… Two Days Start early to observe the aerobics sessions on the riverfront, then grab breakfast before venturing into the Royal Palace (p40). Next is the National Museum (p42) and the world’s most wondrous collection of Khmer sculpture. After lunch at Friends (p64) restaurant, check out the funky architecture of Psar Thmei (p79), but save the heavy shopping for Russian Market (p79). Celebrate your shopping coups with a riverside hap- py-hour drink at Foreign Correspondents’ Club (p74), and then a night out on the town. Start day two with a walking tour of the centre, or just wander around Wat Phnom (p44), where Khmers pray for luck. Have lunch on the riverside, then visit the sobering Tuol Sleng Museum (p43) before continuing on to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek (p44). It is a grim afternoon, but essential for understanding just how far Cambodia has come in the intervening years. Wind up your weekend with a sunset cruise on the Mekong River, offering a beautiful view over the Royal Palace.

42 e# 0 100 m 0 0.05 miles Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda C D AB 18 û# Tonlé Sap Wat Botum 1 St 184 Park Sisowath Quay 1 æ# 7 Entrance 2 Ph n o m Pe n h S i g hts 2 to Royal 3 Kantha Chan Chaya # Palace 4 3 Bopha Pavilion â# Hospital Samdech Sothearos Blvd ÿ# Royal Palace 17 V# 1 #û 20 4æ# 4 16 â# Royal Treasury #û 19 # A Royal 3 â# Offices 13 æ# æ# 5 # North â# 8 á# 6 æ# 11 Gate # æ# 12 Ú# 2 # Bell Silver Tower #á Silver Pagoda # Entrance Exit West Gate # Pagoda æ# 10 (Closed) æ# æ# 15 St 19 South Gate 14 æ# 9 # (Closed) St 240 St 7 BC D including intricate masks used in classical King Norodom (r 1860–1904); an eques- dance and dozens of gold Buddhas. The trian statue of King Norodom; the shrine many precious gifts given to Cambodia’s of King Ang Duong (r 1845–59); a pavilion monarchs by foreign heads of state appear housing a huge footprint of the Buddha; rather spiritless when displayed next to Phnom Mondap, an artificial hill with a such exuberant Khmer art. (Note that pho- structure containing a bronze footprint of tography is not permitted inside the Silver the Buddha from Sri Lanka; a shrine dedi- Pagoda.) cated to Kantha Bopha, one of Prince Sihan- ouk’s daughters; a pavilion for celebrations The Silver Pagoda complex is enclosed by held by the royal family; the shrine of King walls plastered with an extensive mural de- Norodom Sihanouk’s father, King Norodom picting the classic Indian epic of the Rama- Suramarit (r 1955–60); and a bell tower, yana (known as the Reamker in Cambodia). whose bell is rung to order the gates to be The story begins just south of the east gate opened or closed. and includes vivid images of the battle of Lanka. The mural was created around 1900 oNational Museum and is definitely showing its age in parts. of Cambodia MUSEUM Other structures to be found in the com- plex (listed clockwise from the north gate) (សារមនទីរ្ ជាតិ; Map p52; www.cambodiamuseum. include the mondap (library), which once info; cnr St 13 & St 178; admission US$5; h8am- housed richly decorated sacred texts written 5pm) Located just north of the Royal Palace, on palm leaves (now moved to the safety the National Museum of Cambodia is housed of air-conditioned storage); the shrine of in a graceful terracotta structure of tradi- tional design (built from 1917 to 1920), with

43 Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda sublime statue of a seated Jayavarman VII Ph n o m Pe n h S i g hts (r 1181–1219), his head bowed slightly in a æ Top Sights meditative pose (Angkor Thom, late 12th 1 Royal Palace ..........................................C2 century). 2 Silver Pagoda ........................................C3 The museum also contains displays of æ Sights pottery and bronzes dating from the pre- 3 Bell Tower ..............................................C3 Angkorian periods of Funan and Chenla 4 Equestrian Statue of King (4th to 9th centuries), the Indravarman Norodom.............................................C3 period (9th and 10th centuries) and the 5 King's Residence...................................B2 classical Angkorian period (10th to 14th 6 Mondap ..................................................C3 centuries), as well as more recent works, 7 Pavilion for Royal Celebrations.......... C4 such as a beautiful wooden royal barge. 8 Phnom Mondap.....................................C3 9 Ramayana Mural...................................D3 Visitors are not allowed to photograph 10 Shrine of King Ang Duong....................D3 the collection, only the central courtyard. 11 Shrine of King Norodom ......................C3 English-, French- and Japanese-speaking 12 Shrine of King Norodom guides are available for tours (US$6). The Suramarit........................................... C4 comprehensive The New Guide to the Na- 13 Shrine of Sihanouk's Daughter.......... C4 tional Museum (US$10) is available at the 14 Throne Hall ............................................B2 front desk, while the smaller Khmer Art in Stone (US$2) covers some signature pieces. ÿ Sleeping 15 Aura Thematic Hostel ..........................A3 oTuol Sleng Museum û Drinking & Nightlife of Genocidal Crimes MUSEUM 16 Blue Dragon........................................... C1 17 Strangefruit Bar ....................................A4 (សារមនរីទ្ ប្រល័យពជូ សាសន៍; Map p46; cnr St 18 Vito..........................................................A3 113 & St 350; admission US$2, guide US$6; h7am- 5.30pm) In 1975, Tuol Svay Prey High School an inviting courtyard garden. The museum was taken over by Pol Pot’s security forces is home to the world’s finest collection of and turned into a prison known as Security Khmer sculpture – a millennium’s worth and Prison 21 (S-21); it soon became the largest more of masterful Khmer design. The muse- centre of detention and torture in the coun- um comprises four pavilions, facing a pretty try. Between 1975 and 1978 more than 17,000 garden. Most visitors start left and continue people held at S-21 were taken to the killing in a clockwise, chronological direction. fields of Choeung Ek (p44). S-21 has been turned into the Tuol Sleng Museum, which The first significant sculpture to greet serves as a testament to the crimes of the visitors is a large fragment – including the Khmer Rouge. relatively intact head, shoulders and arms – Like the Nazis, the Khmer Rouge lead- of an immense bronze reclining Vishnu ers were meticulous in keeping records of statue that was recovered from the Western their barbarism. Each prisoner who passed Mebon temple near Angkor Wat in 1936. through S-21 was photographed, sometimes Continue into the left pavilion, where the before and after torture. The museum dis- pre-Angkorian collection begins, illustrat- plays include room after room of harrow- ing the journey from the human form of ing B&W photographs; virtually all of the Indian sculpture to the more divine form of men, women and children pictured were Khmer sculpture from the 5th to 8th centu- later killed. You can tell which year a pic- ries. Highlights include an imposing, eight- ture was taken by the style of number-board armed Vishnu statue from the 6th century that appears on the prisoner’s chest. Several found at Phnom Da, and a staring Hariha- foreigners from Australia, New Zealand and ra, combining the attributes of Shiva and the USA were also held at S-21 before being Vishnu, from Prasat Andet in Kompong murdered. It’s worth hiring a guide, as they Thom province. The Angkor collection in- can tell you the stories behind some of the cludes several striking statues of Shiva from people in the photographs. the 9th, 10th and 11th centuries; a giant As the Khmer Rouge ‘revolution’ reached pair of wrestling monkeys (Ko Ker, 10th cen- ever greater heights of insanity, it began tury); a beautiful 12th-century stele (stone) devouring its own. Generations of torturers from Oddar Meanchey Province inscribed and executioners who worked here were in with scenes from the life of Shiva; and the turn killed by those who took their places. During early 1977, when the party purges of

44 Eastern Zone cadres were getting under way, Cam slide presentation takes place Monday S-21 claimed an average of 100 victims a day. and Friday at 2pm and Wednesday at 9am. When the Vietnamese army liberated Killing Fields of Choeung Ek MUSEUM Phnom Penh in early 1979, there were only seven prisoners alive at S-21, all of whom (វាលពឃិ ាតជ�ើងឯក; admission incl audio tour had used their skills, such as painting or US$6; h7.30am-5.30pm) Between 1975 and photography, to stay alive. Fourteen others 1978 about 17,000 men, women and children had been tortured to death as Vietnamese who had been detained and tortured at S-21 Ph n o m Pe n h S i g hts forces were closing in on the city. Photo- were transported to the extermination camp graphs of their gruesome deaths are on dis- of Choeung Ek. They were often bludgeoned play in the rooms where their decomposing to death to avoid wasting precious bullets. corpses were found. Their graves are nearby The remains of 8985 people, many of in the courtyard. whom were bound and blindfolded, were ex- humed in 1980 from mass graves in this one- A visit to Tuol Sleng is a profoundly de- time longan orchard; 43 of the 129 communal pressing experience. The sheer ordinariness graves here have been left untouched. Frag- of the place makes it even more horrific: the ments of human bone and bits of cloth are suburban setting, the plain school buildings, scattered around the disinterred pits. More the grassy playing area where children kick than 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, around balls juxtaposed with rusted beds, are visible behind the clear glass panels of the instruments of torture and wall after wall Memorial Stupa, which was erected in 1988. It of disturbing portraits. It demonstrates is a peaceful place today, masking the horrors the darkest side of the human spirit that that unfolded here several decades ago. lurks within us all. Tuol Sleng is not for the Admission to the Killing Fields includes squeamish. an excellent audio tour, available in sever- al languages. The site is well signposted in Behind many of the displays at Tuol Sleng English about 7.5km south of the city limits. is the Documentation Center of Cambodia. Figure on about US$10 for a remork (driv- DC-Cam was established in 1995 through Yale ers may ask for more). University’s Cambodian Genocide Program The audio tour includes stories by those to research and document the crimes of the who survived the Khmer Rouge, plus a Khmer Rouge. It became an independent or- chilling account by Him Huy, a Choeung Ek ganisation in 1997 and researchers have spent guard and executioner, about some of the years translating confessions and paperwork techniques they used to kill innocent and from Tuol Sleng, mapping mass graves and defenceless prisoners, including women preserving evidence of Khmer Rouge crimes. and children. There’s also a museum here with some interesting information on the French-Cambodian director Rithy Panh’s Khmer Rouge leadership and the ongoing 1996 film Bophana tells the true story of trial. A memorial ceremony is held annually Hout Bophana, a young woman, and Ly at Choeung Ek on 9 May. Sitha, a regional Khmer Rouge leader, who A shuttle bus tour is available with fall in love but are made to pay for this Phnom Penh Hop On Hop Off (%016 ‘crime’ with imprisonment and execution 745880; www.phnompenhhoponhopoff.com; 1/2 at S-21 prison. It is well worth investing an passengers, excl entry fees US$15/25), which hour to watch this powerful documentary, includes hotel pick-up from 8am in the which is screened here at 10am and 3pm morning or 1.30pm in the afternoon. daily. Rithy Panh also directed The Khmer Rouge Killing Machine, which includes in- terviews with former prison guards. A DC- Wat Phnom BUDDHIST TEMPLE GIVE BLOOD! (វត្ត​ភ;្នំ Map p52; Norodom Blvd at St 94; temple admission US$1, museum admission US$2; Cambodia has a critical shortage of blood h7am-6.30pm, museum 7am-6pm) Set on as there’s a local stigma against donating top of a 27m-high tree-covered knoll, Wat blood and a high rate of thalassaemia. If Phnom is on the only ‘hill’ in town. Accord- you want to help, donate at the National ing to legend, the first pagoda on this site Blood Transfusion Centre (Map p52; was erected in 1373 to house four statues Preah Ang Doung Hospital, cnr Norodom Blvd & of Buddha deposited here by the waters of St 114; h8am-5pm). It’s perfectly safe and the Mekong River and discovered by Penh. you get a T-shirt. The main entrance to Wat Phnom is via the

45 grand eastern staircase, which is guard- Seek out the stairway to the left behind Ph n o m Pe n h S i g hts ed by lions and naga (mythical serpent) the dais. It leads up to the 3rd floor, where a balustrades. glass case houses a small marble Buddha of Burmese origin that was broken into pieces Today, many people come here to pray by the Khmer Rouge and later reassembled. for good luck and success in school exams There are some nice views of the Mekong or business affairs. When a wish is granted, from up here. the faithful return to deliver on the offer- ing promised, such as a garland of jasmine Behind the main building is a stupa con- flowers or a bunch of bananas (of which the taining an eyebrow hair of Buddha with an spirits are said to be especially fond). inscription in Pali (an ancient Indian lan- guage) over the entrance. The vihara (temple sanctuary) was re- built in 1434, 1806, 1894 and 1926. West of Olympic Stadium LANDMARK the vihara is a huge stupa containing the ashes of King Ponhea Yat (r 1405–67). In a (ពហុកឡី ដ្ឋា នជាតិអូឡាំពិក; Map p46; near cnr pavilion on the southern side of the passage Sihanouk & Monireth Blvds; h6am-10pm) F between the vihara and the stupa is a stat- Known collectively as the National Sports ue of a smiling and rather plump Penh. Complex, the Olympic Stadium is a striking example of 1960s ‘New Khmer’ architecture A bit to the north of and below the vihara and includes a sports arena and facilities is an eclectic shrine dedicated to the genie for boxing, gymnastics, volleyball and other Preah Chau, who is especially revered by the sports. Turn up after 5pm to see countless Vietnamese. On either side of the entrance football matches, pétanque duels or bad- to the central altar are guardian spirits bear- minton games. It’s also a popular spot for ing iron bats. In the chamber to the right sunrise or sunset mass musical aerobics. of the statue are drawings of Confucius, as well as two Chinese-style figures of the sages Wat Moha Montrei BUDDHIST TEMPLE Thang Cheng (right) and Thang Thay (left). (វតត្​មហាមន្រ្តី; Map p46; Sihanouk Blvd at St 161) Down the hill from the vihara, in the Situated close to the Olympic Stadium, Wat northwest corner of the complex, is a mu- Moha Montrei was named in honour of seum with some old statues and historical one of King Monivong’s ministers, Chakrue artefacts, which you can probably skip if Ponn, who initiated the founding of the you’ve been to the National Museum. pagod a (moha montrei means ‘the great minister’). The cement vihara, topped with Be aware that Wat Phnom can be a bit of a 35m -high tower, was completed in 1970. a circus, with beggars, street urchins and Between 1975 and 1979, it was used by the drink- and caged-bird sellers. You pay to set Khmer Rouge to store rice and corn. the bird free, but they are trained to return Check out the assorted Cambodian touch- to their cage afterwards. Wat Ounalom BUDDHIST TEMPLE es incorporated into the wall murals of the vihara, which tell the story of Buddha. The (វតឧត្ ណ្ណា លោម; Map p52; Sothearos Blvd; angels accompanying Buddha to heaven are h6am-6pm) F This wat is the headquar- ters of Cambodian Buddhism. It was found- dressed as classical Khmer dancers, while the assembled officials wear the white mili- ed in 1443 and comprises 44 structures. It tary uniforms of the Sihanouk period. received a battering during the Pol Pot era, but today the wat has come back to life – the head of the country’s Buddhist brotherhood Independence Monument MONUMENT lives here, with a large number of monks. (វមិ ានឯករាជ្យ; Map p46; cnr Norodom & Sihanouk Blvds) Modelled on the central tower of Ang- On the 2nd floor of the main building, kor Wat, Independence Monument was built to the left of the dais, is a statue of Huot Tat, fourth patriarch of Cambodian Bud- in 1958 to commemorate the country’s inde- pendence from France in 1953. It also serves dhism, who was killed by Pol Pot. The stat- as a memorial to Cambodia’s war dead. ue, made in 1971 when the patriarch was 80 years old, was thrown in the Mekong by the Wreaths are laid here on national holidays. In the park just east of here is an impressive Khmer Rouge to show that Buddhism was statue (Map p46; Sihanouk Blvd) of the legend- no longer the driving force in Cambodia. It was retrieved after 1979. To the right of the ary former king/prime minister/statesman King Father Norodom Sihanouk, who died dais is a statue of a former patriarch of the a national hero in 2012. Thummayuth sect (to which the royal fam- ily belongs). Near by, in Wat Botum Park (ឧទ្យានវតត្បទុ មុ ) opposite photogenic Wat

46 South Phnom Penh BC D A St 53 â# Kampuchea Krom Blvd 7 St 134 Sorya Shopping St 219 1 ›# St 134 St 169 St 63 Kim Seng Centre Ph n o m Pe n h S i g hts Express St 107 St 137 St 139 St 211 St 152 CharSlets16d4eSPGtsa1au6lr6le Blvd St 158 See North Phnom O Russei St 178 Penh Map (p52) 2 St 213 St 182 þ# Jawaharal Nehru Hua 119 Capitol Lucky! Lian St 182 Tour Lucky! ›# #ú ›# # St 198 73 105 #ý Blvd Monivong Blvd61GermanSt 214 3 Embassy St 336(St St 105í# St 222 St 107 215) St 111 St 228 St 240 St 115 St 125 St 141 St 143 St 1 Kampot BlCvdity 5 ÿ# 26 Express Mall #æ 40 Ph 232 ÿ# ›# Monireth ÿ# 32 38 ÿ#ÿ# 41 St 242 45 4 Long St 250 ÿ# 51 ÿ# St 252 Sapaco ›# ›# Phuong #ú D Ph 205 St 260 42 112þ# Ø# Olympic Express Sihanouk Blvd St 278 (200m) St 286 Ú# 10 St 276 St 282 St 284 St 288 St 318 St 298 þ# St 85St 280 5 St S34t 8338 Psar St 113 58 ÿ# St 199 Olympic St 143 #ú #11 Ø# St 173 St 328 St 292 St 193 St 300 Enlargement St 304 Sihanouk Blvd St 310 ú# 104 10û#2 1û#00 ú# 94 St 320 109 û# ú# 62 124 #þ #ýSt 330 278 120 9 Ú# 29Sÿ#t 37þ#4 St # ÿ#46 ú# St 348 44ÿ# St #þ Palm St 163 111 86 Tuol Sleng Museum Monivong Blvd 6 ú# 121 Tours Ø#22 123 þ# #þ 1â# of Genocidal Crimes 68 St 350 282 û#103 St 51 ú# See Russian Market Map (p58) St 360 GOLDEN ST St 57 88 ÿ# ÿ# St 368 AREA S5t93ú#88 24 St 376 KEBNOGEKNAGNSGtPa2r8k8wú#ay 0 St 386 St 183 St 390 Ph 173DISTRICT Squa5re2 St 294 St 143 St 105 St 95 St 113 200 m 0 0.1 miles 7 St 396 Chinese í# Mao Tse Toung Blvd Embassy ABCD

47 e# 0 0.5 miles 1 km 0 H DE F G St 144 Psar St 15 Kandal St 51 St 148 St 13 Wat Ounalom 1 St 154 St 19 St 172 Tonlé Sap Ph n o m Pe n h S i g hts St 174 St 178 See Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda Map (p42) ÿ#33 Sisowath QuayVisitor 2 ÿ# Information 37 #þ Centre Norodom Blvd 114 ï# St 184 St 51 St 200 #ú 95 #ý 106 St 208 74 #ú St 240 Wat St 2#ú46#û 98 #ã 17 International BPoaturkm 53 Hotel SOS Medical 84#ú 3ÿ#4 3ÿ#0 Cambodiana 3 113 90#ú 50#ú#û97St 244 Samdech Sothearos Blvd St 258 Centre 75 #ú þ## 12 St 7 Ø# # î# 14 #ú 78 117 #þ St 19 Ú# 8 27 2 67 ÿ# St 55#ú 82#ú Singaporean 36 ÿ# #á #ú St 6354 Ø#15 Embassy í# #ú #ú 91 24ÿ#2 #ú St 254 St 26ÿ#4 #ú St 83 î# 71 60 43 Naga 28 Clinic Suramarit Blvd 115 #þ #þ á# 3 Sih4aæ#nouk Blvd 4 Ø# #ú #ú ÿ# #ú #8ú0 Naga World # 18 77 65 Casino St 282 108 57 #ú GOLDEN ÿ#47 Norodom Blvd81 49 85 #ý Stÿ#29448 ST AREA St 29#úHarley Tours #ú Ø# 20 ÿ# 35 #ú St 21Cambodia# 92 National 66 # # Assembly #ú 64 Samdech Sothearos Blvd St 996 #ú See Enlargement 87 #ú72 13 White Australian #ú Building Embassy 56 #ú #û#ú 55 í# St 302 31 ÿ# 99 Canadia #ú79 ì# Ú# 6 St 306 #ú69 Bank þ# Reclaimed 5 BOENG St 310 Land KENG H#an#u1m6an 118 TONLÉ 10#ý7 KANG BASSAC 101 DISTRICT St 322 Travel DISTRICT #û St 51 European St 57 î# Dental 116þ# St 334 #ú8S9t 352 #ú 122 Clinic Ø# 6 #þ #ú76 7#ú0 21 St 360 61 #ú63 110 þ# St 392 Ø#19 23 St 63 St 380 Ø# St 71 Cambodia þ# 125 ÿ# Angkor Air 39 St 398 Myanmar # Japanese Embassy (300m); Koh Pich St 400 Embassy 9#ú3 ITnhdaiai EnmEmbabsassys(y4(5405m0m); ); (Diamond Island) 7 25ÿ# í# Indonesian Embassy (450m); D Malaysian Embassy (1.2km); Monivong Bridge (1.6km) D E F G H Tonlé Bassac

48 South Phnom Penh Ph n o m Pe n h S i g hts æ Top Sights 31 Mad Monkey............................................. E5 1 Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocidal 32 Narin Guesthouse ...................................C4 Crimes ................................................... C6 33 New Me Mate's Villa................................ F2 34 Number 9 Guesthouse ...........................G3 æ Sights 35 One Up Banana Hotel ............................. F5 2 Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship 36 Pavilion ..................................................... F3 Monument ............................................ G3 37 Plantation ................................................. F2 3 Independence Monument ......................F4 38 Smiley's Hotel..........................................C4 4 Norodom Sihanouk Statue.....................F4 39 Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra...........G7 5 Olympic Stadium .................................... B3 40 Sunday Guesthouse................................C3 6 Prayuvong Buddha Factories.................F5 41 Tat Guesthouse .......................................C4 7 Vann Nath Gallery....................................B1 42 Tattoo Guesthouse .................................C4 8 Wat Botum............................................... G3 43 Teahouse..................................................E4 9 Wat Langka.............................................. B6 44 Terrace on 95...........................................D6 10 Wat Moha Montrei .................................. B4 45 The 252.....................................................D4 46 Top Banana Guesthouse........................B6 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 47 Villa Langka .............................................. F4 11 Bike Shop................................................. D5 48 White Rabbit............................................. E5 12 Cambodia Cooking Class........................F3 49 Willow........................................................G4 13 Cambodian Living Arts........................... G5 ú Eating 14 Children's Playground............................ G3 15 Dream Land............................................. H4 Aeon Mall Food Court ..................(see 110) 16 Free the Bears..........................................F5 50 ARTillery ................................................... F3 17 Himawari Hotel ....................................... H3 51 Asian Spice...............................................C4 18 Kids City ....................................................E4 52 Aussie XL..................................................B7 19 Monkey Business.....................................F6 53 Backyard Cafe .........................................G3 20 NaţaRāj Yoga............................................E5 54 Black Bambu............................................ E3 21 Seeing Hand Massage Chan 55 Boat Noodle Restaurant.........................G5 Tharith................................................... G6 56 Brown Coffee ........................................... E5 Spa Bliss......................................... (see 90) 57 Chicky ....................................................... E5 22 The Place ................................................. B6 58 Chinese Noodle/China 23 Yoga Phnom Penh ...................................F6 Restaurant.............................................D5 ÿ Sleeping 59 Comme à la Maison.................................A6 24 Blue Dog Guesthouse............................. B6 60 Curry Noodle Stalls.................................G4 25 Governor's House....................................F7 61 Deco ..........................................................E6 26 H 22........................................................... D3 62 Dosa Corner.............................................B6 27 Imperial Garden ...................................... H3 63 From Farm to Table ................................ F6 28 Kabiki.........................................................F4 64 Hagar......................................................... E5 29 Khmer Surin Boutique 65 Java Café .................................................. F4 Guesthouse .......................................... A6 66 JoMa Bakery Cafe ................................... F5 30 Lazy Gecko Guesthouse ........................ H3 K'nyay .............................................(see 44) 67 Kravanh.....................................................G4 Botum (Map p46; btwn St 7 & St 19), is opti- later works can be viewed here at his family’s mistically named Cambodia-Vietnam Kith Eng Restaurant. There are no set hours, Friendship Monument (Map p46), built to a so just drop by; his wife or his son-in-law Vietnamese (and rather communist) design (who speaks English) will usually let you in. in 1979. Concerts are often held in the park, which springs to life with aerobics, football Vann Nath continued to paint vivid can- and takraw (foot juggling with a rattan vases of S-21 right up until his death in ball) enthusiasts after 5pm. 2011; some of his most famous images are on display at the Tuol Sleng Museum. The Vann Nath Gallery ART GALLERY Vietnamese brought him back to S-21 from 1980 to 1982 specifically to paint these. ‘We (Map p46; Kith Eng Restaurant; 33B St 169) F must think of the souls of those who died The late Cambodian artist Vann Nath is there,’ Vann Nath told us in an interview world famous for his depictions of Khmer not long before he passed away. ‘These Rouge torture scenes at Phnom Penh’s noto- souls died without hope, without light, rious S-21 Security Prison, where he was one without a future. They had no life. So I of only seven survivors. Many of Vann Nath’s paint my scenes to tell the world the stories