A–Z OF LEGUMES 99 French bean SOWING DEPTH 2in (5cm) ■ Site and soil Lima beans need a well- SEED SPACING 2–4in (5–10cm) single row drained, moderately fertile soil that warms Phaseolus vulgaris 6in (15cm) double row up quickly in spring, and a site in full sun ROW SPACING 18in (45cm) between single rows with protection from cold winds. Double rows 9in (23cm) apart, ■ Sowing and planting Seeds need 64ºF SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER 18in (45cm) between rows (18ºC) to germinate, so it is best to sow in SOW •••• spring in a propagator (see p.63) and transplant TRANSPLANT • ■ Routine care Mulching (see pp.41–42 and in early summer when they are 4–6in (10–15cm) HARVEST •••••• p.72) improves the growth of the plants and keeps tall. Alternatively, pregerminate them on damp their pods free from soiling. In the absence of absorbent paper (see p.61) before sowing in Heavy cropping, trouble-free French or mulch, drawing soil around the plant bases to a position outdoors. kidney beans picked fresh from the garden are depth of 3–4in (8–10cm) helps to support them a revelation in f lavor. They ripen to “haricot and suppress weeds. The numbers of pods and SOWING DEPTH 2in (5cm) beans” that may be dried and stored for winter their texture can be improved by watering the SEED SPACING 6in (15cm) use. Half-ripe beans are called “f lageolets” and soil to keep it moist, from f lowering time onward. ROW SPACING Climbing beans: double rows are shelled and eaten like peas. French beans have Protect early and late crops with cloches. 12in (30cm) apart, 5ft (1.5m) pods that are round or f lattened in cross-section. ■ Harvesting and storing Crops take two between rows What are sometimes called Kenya beans are also to three months to mature. Picking every Dwarf beans: as for French bean French beans. Although green beans are two or three days encourages production of common, cultivars with yellow, purple, and more beans and prevents any deterioration in ■ Routine care Grow as for runner bean (see red- or purple-f lecked pods are available, too, quality that may occur once the seeds begin p.100); they crop best in warm, sheltered sites, making attractive and unusual plants for the to swell. Pick in the early morning and store with f leece, cloche, or greenhouse protection. ornamental vegetable garden. in the refrigerator to retain freshness. Unlike Minimum temperature needed is 68°F/20°C; older cultivars, modern ones are free from reduce humidity and ventilate at f lowering time Most French beans are dwarf and make a strings on pods. Covering in mid-fall with to encourage pollination. low, bushy annual plant. Climbing French beans, cloches prolongs the harvest for a few weeks. ■ Harvesting When crops mature—in three to however, can be grown up supports in the same ■ Common problems Slugs (see p.262) and four months—pick regularly, two or three times way as runner beans (see p.96). Alternatively, aphid (see p.252) are the most common pests, per week, so pods do not become overmature, create a wigwam with four to eight 8ft (2.5m) but bean f ly (see p.252), birds (see p.252), mice which will suppress further f lowering, since the stakes and sow three seeds on the inside of each. (see p.257), root aphid (see p.261), and red pods will be using up vital energy. Dwarf beans mature earlier than climbing spider mite (see p.261) may occur. French beans ■ Common problems Lima beans usually ones and are especially valuable in cloches and may suffer from anthracnose (see p.251) and suffer the same problems as French beans (see frames; but climbing beans may yield more halo blight (see p.256), which are both serious, left). Greenhouse crops may also be prone to heavily and make better use of space in small and increasingly rust (see p.261), but the most whitef ly (see p.264). gardens and greenhouses. The average yield of common disease is foot and root rot (p.255); French beans is 10lb per 10ft (4.5kg per 3m) row. prevent it by using a different site each year. Pea ■ Recommended cultivars French beans are self-pollinating, meaning Climbing French bean Pisum sativum that cultivars will come true to type from ‘Borlotta Lingua di Fuoco’—red-f lecked green home-saved seed. pods, use fresh or dried. SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ■ Site and soil Both dwarf and climbing ‘Helda’—f lavorful bean yields big, f lat-sided pods. SOW •• types are sensitive to frost and cannot be grown ‘Kentucky Wonder’—vigorous, rust-resistant, TRANSPLANT •• •• • •• outside before early summer or after mid-fall. and successful in all parts of the country. HARVEST Sheltered warm sites are best, but cloche or Dwarf French bean ••• f leece protection (see pp.46–48) will help ‘Allegria’—heavy, fine-quality crops. elsewhere. Light, fertile, and neutral soils ‘Sonesta’—early-maturing, waxy yellow beans ••••• are ideal, but any well-drained soil that has on compact plants. had organic matter added is suitable. French ‘Stanley’—tall plants; heavy crop over a Annual garden peas include robust early peas, beans may be grown in pots, which can be long period. tiny, tasty petit pois, dwarf cultivars good for started off in greenhouses to crop outdoors exposed, windy gardens, and tall cultivars that from early summer onward. Lima bean can be trained up supports to save space. The ■ Sowing and planting French beans require best-quality peas have wrinkled seeds, but are at least 54ºF (12ºC) to germinate. Sow under Phaseolus lunatus not as robust as round-seeded cultivars. Peas in cover, one seed to a 3in (8cm) pot (see p.64), which the whole pod is eaten include mangetout in mid-spring, and in cloches in late spring, SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER or snow peas, with thin pods, and sugar or snap or under cover at any time if your soil is cold SOW •• peas, with thick f leshy pods. For ornamental and wet. Plant out the seedlings when they are TRANSPLANT • kitchen gardens, cultivars that have colored 3in (8cm) tall. Prewarming the soil with clear HARVEST •• f lowers and pods are attractive. Peas are easy film plastic or cloches for several weeks prior to grow and, when picked fresh, their f lavor to transplanting can be beneficial. Sometimes called butter beans, these tender is incomparably better than store-bought peas. annuals or short-lived perennials are grown Modern developments include leaf less and semi- Leaving room for picking access and inserting as dwarf bushes or as climbers. The beans are leaf less peas, where tendrils replace the normal supports, if appropriate, plant 32–43 seeds per sq yd either used green, in the same way as runner foliage. These are self-supporting and much less (sq m), evenly spacing them in single or double beans, or dried. The sprouted seeds, often vulnerable to bird damage. Modern peas have rows. The latter provides better yields, and, if called beansprouts, are also edible. Average 2–3 pods at each f lowering node, compared to they are the dwarf, bushy type, the plants will yield is 11⁄4lb per 10ft (560g per 3m) row. the single pod of older peas. Such modern peas also suppress the weed growth between the rows. There are no cultivars currently available. are dwarf in habit and more easily supported, and still yield as much as taller cultivars—an average From late spring to midsummer, sow in yield being 61⁄2lb per 10ft (3kg per 3m) row. succession in open ground, as long as the soil ■ Site and soil Well-drained, neutral to is moist, every two weeks for a continuous alkaline soil that holds moisture is best. Good supply until fall.
100 VEGETABLES soil structure is important and this can be ■ Recommended cultivars the tips of climbers stops them from climbing, achieved by adding organic matter (see Pea and they can be grown as bushes. Problems pp.22–23). Open sunny situations are ideal. ‘Caselode’—sweet tasting peas that are slow to with failed pollination are less severe with ■ Sowing and planting Late fall and winter turn starchy. pinched or dwarf crops. sowings of peas raised in troughs or pots are ‘Dakota’—compact 22in (55cm) vines produce more likely to succeed, especially if covered masses of 6–7in (15–18cm) pods. SOWING DEPTH 2in (5cm) by cloches, than seed sown directly into ‘Greensage’—semi-leaf less, needs little staking, SEED SPACING 6in (15cm) the soil, especially if it is cold and heavy— limited bird damage, sweet f lavor. ROW SPACING Climbing beans: double rows temperatures should be at least 41ºF (5ºC). Snow pea or mangetout 2ft (60cm) apart, 5ft (1.5m) Birds and mice may also eat seeds sown ‘Oregon Sugar Pod’—tall. Tolerates poor soil between rows outdoors. Seeds may be sown in guttering to and bad weather. Large, delicious pods. Dwarf beans: as for French bean prevent this (see p.97). Peas sown after mid- Sugar or snap pea spring may succumb to powdery mildew. ‘Cascadia’—medium height, heavy crop over ■ Routine care Twist young shoots around In warm areas, fall sowings may succeed, a long period. the stakes to help them start to climb. Pinch especially under cloches. Sow in succession, out the growing tips (see p.97) when shoots when the preceding seedlings are 2in (5cm) tall. Runner bean reach the top of supports to stop them becoming top-heavy. Watering is vital in dry weather Peas can be sown in single drills or in Phaseolus coccineus as soon as f lower buds appear. During f lowering, double rows in a wide drill (see p.67) that are 1–2 gallons per sq yd (5–9 liters per sq m) easy to hoe, or in beds with around 40 plants SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER every 3–4 days is needed. Sometimes pods fail per sq yd (m) for optimum yield. However, SOW •••• to form despite plentiful f lowering. Lack of beds are difficult to harvest and keep weed- TRANSPLANT • soil moisture is the usual cause and abundant free. An alternative is to sow in three drills, HARVEST •••• irrigation the remedy. Cold, windy weather 5in (13cm) apart, with the seeds also spaced 5in may depress pollinator activity. Warm nights (13cm) apart. Space each set of three rows at Runner beans are tender perennials, grown as can lead to failure to set pods; the traditional the same distance as the eventual height of the annuals. Most are climbers growing up to 10ft remedy of spraying f lowers with water is usually plants, as given on the packet. This way of (3m) tall. Dwarf cultivars, ideal for early crops ineffective—but may cool f lowers. sowing gives you a good crop of plants that in cloches and frames, are also available. Most ■ Harvesting Crops mature in about three are easy to harvest and hoe. have red f lowers and red speckled seeds, but months. Pick regularly, 2–3 times a week, to stop white-f lowered, white-seeded cultivars are pods becoming over-mature, which will suppress SOWING DEPTH 11⁄2in (4cm) in moist soils widely grown. Unusual beans include black- further f lowering. Similarly, remove any old pods. SEED SPACING 2in (5cm) in dry soils seeded ones and those with bicolored f lowers. Saving seed (see p.97) is usually worthwhile, but ROW SPACING 2in (5cm) in single or double rows The latter are valuable in ornamental kitchen if more than one cultivar is grown nearby the 5in (13cm) in triple rows gardens. Runner beans have a stronger f lavor seedlings may not come true to type. Equal to plants’ eventual height than French beans and give a heavier yield: ■ Common problems As for French beans 13lb per 10ft (6kg per 3m) row. (see p.99). Runner beans also suffer from poor ■ Routine care Many dwarf, especially leaf less, ■ Site and soil Runner beans are sensitive to setting (see p.259). cultivars support themselves, but better yields frost, and need warm, sheltered conditions where ■ Recommended cultivars and easier picking come from using supports their insect pollinators will be most effective. ‘Summer Medley’—quality beans and a long (see p.96). Regular hoeing and weeding are Deep, fertile soil holding ample water is best. picking period all summer. essential. Watering at f lowering time, and Preparing a trench filled with organic matter (see ‘Scarlet Emperor’—the taste of Scarlet Emperor again as the pods swell, greatly increases the p.95) is a traditional way of ensuring this, although is as sweet as a bean gets. crop, but irrigation before this time merely acceptable crops will result from ground prepared ‘Starlight’—good pollination even in hot, dry produces leaves, with little increase in harvest. by normal digging methods (see pp.37–40). periods; heavy crop. ■ Harvesting and storing Unless sown in ■ Sowing and planting For successful ‘White Lady’—heavy crops of good f lavor winter, early, dwarf cultivars mature in about germination, the soil temperature should be and quality. 12 weeks, while higher-yielding main crop at least 54ºF (12ºC). Heavy, wet soils can cultivars may take 14 weeks. Gather peas be prewarmed by covering them with clear Yardlong bean as soon as they are ready, to encourage the film plastic or cloches for about four weeks production of more pods. Pick peas shortly before sowing. Alternatively, raise plants Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis before they are needed, and once picked in deep pots (see p.62) indoors from mid-spring, keep them cool, ideally in a refrigerator. planting out in early summer. Protect young SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ■ Common problems Pea moth (see p.258) plants with f leece or cloches to help them SOW •• gets into the pods spoiling the crop, and establish. The earliest crops come from dwarf TRANSPLANT • is hard to control. Occasionally pea aphid cultivars grown under cloches or f leece, HARVEST •• and pea thrips and weevil (see p.258) attack. removing the covering at f lowering time to Pea and bean weevil (see p.258) may eat the allow pollination to take place. A midsummer Yardlong or asparagus beans are highly tender, foliage. Using mouse traps and protecting sowing will prolong the harvest into fall. tropical plants, up to 12ft (4m) long, with pods seedbeds with f leece are the best counter- that can be a yard (meter) long in optimum measures against, respectively, mice (see p.257) Sow runner beans in double rows using conditions, where average yields are 11⁄4lb per and birds (see p.252). Foot and root rot (see sturdy supports, such as 8ft (2.5m) long stakes 10ft (560g per 3m) row. In a warm site or under p.255) is troublesome where soil is wet (see p.96), ideally with one plant per stake. If unheated glass or f leece, yardlong beans can be and cold. Sowing indoors and transplanting stakes are in short supply, strings may replace grown in the same way as Lima beans (see p.99). peas is the best remedy, but later sowings alternate stakes, or all of the stakes may be They will not tolerate cold soils and chilly nights. are usually unaffected. Powdery mildew replaced by nylon netting. Alternatively, Crops take 3–4 months to mature. Pick the pods (see p.260) is the worst disease, but usually use six to eight stakes to make a wigwam when 12–18in (30–45cm) long, before they affects only late crops. Resistant cultivars and grow one plant up each stake. Dwarf become woody. Seeds are not readily available are available. Pea leaf and pod spot (see p.258) cultivars need no supports. Pinching out in cool areas. is serious but uncommon.
GROWING SALAD CROPS 101 Growing salad crops The crops described here are mainly Salad crops under a floating mulch Bolting lettuces salad leaves, but radishes are included, as Horticultural fleece protects early crops from Leafy salads, especially nonhearting types they are grown mostly for use in salads. frosts and also deters flying insects and birds. of lettuce, like these ‘Revolution’ cultivars, Aside from the traditional lettuce, salad Lay the fleece so that it floats lightly over the quickly bolt and run to seed in hot weather leaves also include arugula, chicory, corn crops, and weigh it down at the sides. Check or if short of water. The leaves become bitter salad, endive, ice plant, Japanese mustard the crop regularly, and loosen if necessary. and fit only for the compost heap. spinach, American cress, mibuna and mizuna greens, mustard and cress, and form a fine tilth, or if they form a cap summer, leafy salads germinate better summer and winter purslane. Salad crops after heavy rain so that seedlings cannot if sown in light shade, such as provided are fast-growing—if sown in spring, push through, raising leafy salads in by a fence or tree, and if protected from radishes will mature in four weeks, and modules under cover is preferable. extremes of dryness and heat. In hot lettuces in 13 weeks. Salads can quickly weather, over 77°F (25°C), lettuce seed become coarse and hot-flavored, and run Sowing leafy salads in modules (see may become dormant several hours to seed, however. Sowing small batches p.65) also saves space and time. Sow after sowing. Prevent this by sowing in in succession (see p.69) helps to overcome 2–3 seeds per cell, later thinning to the afternoon so that the critical period this problem. Using several cultivars, the strongest seedling. Some lettuce falls in the cool of the night. Watering or crops that take different amounts of cultivars need light to germinate; when after sowing can also help. time to reach maturity, also helps avoid germination rates are disappointing, try peaks and troughs in supply. sowing on the surface in module trays, THINNING SEEDLINGS keeping the seeds moist by putting the Leafy salad crops grow quickly, making Leafy salads need little in the way of tray in a clear plastic bag or propagator timely thinning difficult. There are two feeding; a light application of nitrogen away from direct sun. For radishes, sow ways to alleviate this problem. Remove fertilizer to the soil before sowing or 4–5 seeds to a 3in (8cm) pot and plant surplus seedlings (see p.68) as soon as they transplanting should be sufficient. out the entire clump of seedlings (see can be handled, in three stages: at the below), to avoid damaging the roots. first stage, leave just a thumb’s width TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS between seedlings; at the second stage, Leafy salad crops are quite sensitive Outdoors, cover early sowings with leave half of the intended final spacing; to temperature, and this affects seed fleece or cloches (see pp.46–48) to avoid finally, thin to the final spacing. You can germination—they will not germinate problems with low temperatures. In use the thinnings in salads. Alternatively, if they are too cold, or even too hot. try station sowing (see p.68), in which They grow best in a temperature range 3–5 seeds are sown together. Thin the of around 50–68°F (10–20°C). Low seedlings to two strong-growing ones; temperatures of below 41°F (5°C) and later, when they have developed into slow growth rates can lead to a coarse young plants, choose the healthier, flavor and texture, and may prevent sturdier one and remove the other. crops such as lettuces from developing proper hearts. The use of cold frames, cloches, and fleece (see pp.43–48) alleviates this problem. Some salads, endive and chicory, for example, flower prematurely, or bolt, if exposed to several weeks of low temperatures. These crops cannot be safely sown before midsummer unless bolt-resistant cultivars are used. Some crops will also bolt if exposed to high temperatures (see above right) as they mature. SOWING THE CROPS Transplanting radish seedlings TRANSPLANTING For successional batches of small radishes, Because of the sensitivity of leafy salads sprinkle a small quantity of seeds in 3in (8cm) For plants raised under cover, transplant to temperature (see above), it is usually pots indoors at two-weekly intervals. When the to their outdoor positions before they easier to achieve even germination, roots bind the compost, plant out the entire become too large for the pot or module especially with early sowings, by sowing potful to grow on as a clump. cell (see p.70). Bare-root transplants from under cover (see p.64). If sown outdoors an outdoor seedbed work well only (see p.68), germination will depend as long as the seedlings are very small. on the warmth and moistness of the When a newly sown row comes up and seedbed. Where soils do not readily there are gaps, fill these in with surplus
102 VEGETABLES seedlings thinned out from better Forcing and blanching chicory 1In the fall, lift chicon populated parts of the row. Care must types (see p.103) and be taken with the tap roots of lettuces, 12 trim the leaves to 1⁄2in (1cm) endive, and chicory when transplanting. from the roots. Position upright Radishes have delicate roots and should in a deep box on a layer of not be transplanted bare-root. Naturally, moist peat, or peat substitute. with transplanted seedlings there will be Cover with another 9in (23cm) a check in growth, and these plants will of peat and firm this down. Put mature later than the others. This can the box in a warm, dark place. be an advantage, however, avoiding the problem of simultaneous maturation. 2 Several weeks later, when they have grown INTERCROPPING AND CATCH to 6–8in (15–20cm) in length, CROPPING remove the chicons from Intercropping salad crops with longer- the box and cut them away term vegetables (see pp.69 and 71) allows from the roots. for a good return from a given space. A checkerboard planting pattern uses EXTENDING THE SEASON tubs are best for headed salads, but space best, but alternate rows are easier Many salads, such as endive, chicory, summer radishes, leafy crops, and to manage. Lettuces and other leafy corn salad, and arugula, can tolerate cut-and-come-again leaves suit small salads may be grown with Brussels cold, and if protected (see pp.43–48) pots or growing bags—ones that sprouts and cauliflowers, for example, can be gathered from early fall to have already supported a cucumber since they appreciate the same high- winter. Chicory chicons may be forced or tomato crop are fine for salads, nitrogen soil conditions. Radishes and either indoors (see above) or outdoors since their depleted nutrient levels parsnips (see p.69) thrive on low levels (see p.103) for harvest in winter. Winter are sufficient for salad crops. Careful of nitrogen. For details, see individual radishes and cut-and-come-again leaves watering will be required so as not crops (pp.103–107). (see below) may be harvested in winter. to let the compost dry out. In spring, overwintered lettuces, Salads can also be used for a catch arugula, and American cress will be SAVING SEEDS crop (see p.69). Grow early leafy salads ready. If overwintering crops, make Lettuces are self-pollinating, so in an area set aside for purple sprouting sure you choose suitable cultivars and that home-saved seed will be true broccoli and leeks to be planted out in sow at the correct time (see pp.103–107). to type, especially if other plants late summer, for example. At the other are positioned more than 25ft (8m) end of the season, peas, beans, and early CONTAINER GROWING away. The seed from arugula, which potatoes harvested before midsummer Salads can be grown in containers is a species and not a cultivar, will leave space for a catch crop of endives, if garden space is limited. Large also come true. radicchio, corn salad, or winter radishes. Spaces in ornamental beds can also be used for catch crops of salads. Growing cut-and-come-again salad crops Most leafy salad crops can be grown to produce several flushes of young, tender leaves for eating. After one cut, the plants regrow to create another crop. Two or three harvests can be made from each sowing. This method is suitable for crops sown either in pots, modules, or a growing bag (see right) or outdoors in a seedbed. To cover the whole season, sow successionally (see p.69). Leafy vegetables other than salads can be treated in this way: 1Amaranth (see p.125) Kale (see p.80) Plant seedlings of nonhearting salads 2 After two weeks, the crops have already closely in a growing bag (here oriental begun to regrow from the stumps. In Swiss chard (see p.128) Spinach (see p.128) another 1–2 weeks, a fresh crop of salad leaves may be harvested, and another one Leaf celery (see p.122) Sorrel (see p.145) greens, American cress, and lettuces). After in another 3–6 weeks. Radish leaves (see p.106) 3–6 weeks, cut the leaves to 2in (5cm), leaving a stump with enough side-buds to regrow.
A–Z OF SALAD CROPS 103 A–Z OF SALAD CROPS American cress f lavors. They may also be cooked like spinach. The plants mature in 4–12 weeks, and yield the Barbarea verna equivalent of 9–10 bunches per 10ft (3m) row. Named cultivars are not offered. SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ■ Site and soil Any moderately fertile but SOW ••••• ••• moisture-retentive soil, preferably in a sheltered TRANSPLANT •• and slightly shaded position, is suitable. Protect HARVEST • •• ••• fall and winter crops with cloches, cold frames, or even a f leece tunnel cloche (see pp.45–47). American, land, or upland cress resembles ■ Sowing and planting Like radishes, arugula watercress, with glossy green leaves and a soon runs to seed, and repeated sowings are strong, peppery f lavor, but it may be grown necessary for a constant supply of edible leaves. on dry land. American cress is robust, making Sow where the plants are to grow when seedlings it a useful winter salad. Plants mature in 4–12 from the previous sowing have produced a weeks, and yield 18–20 heads per 10ft (3m) couple of true leaves, anything from 4–21 days, row. Named cultivars are not offered. depending on the weather. Early and late sowings ■ Site and soil Any moderately fertile but should be made under cover (see p.101). Arugula very moisture-retentive soil, preferably in a may also be grown as a cut-and-come-again sheltered and slightly shaded position, is suitable crop (see p.102). for growing American cress. ■ Sowing and planting Either sow in moist SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) soil outdoors where the plants are to grow in PLANT SPACING 6in (15cm) mid-spring to early summer, or raise seedlings ROW SPACING 6in (15cm) in trays (see p.101) in mid- to late summer for planting out as soon as seedlings can be handled. ■ Routine care Thin out the seedlings American cress may be grown as a cut-and- (see p.101) and use the thinnings in salads. come-again crop (see p.102). Generous watering in dry spells is essential. ■ Harvesting Harvest arugula leaves as soon SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) as they are usable. Frequent cutting will promote PLANT SPACING 6in (15cm) tender new growth. ROW SPACING 8in (20cm) ■ Common problems Flea beetle, slugs, and snails may cause minor damage. For symptoms ■ Routine care Thin out the seedlings (see and controls, see Plant Problems, p.255 and p.262. p.101); use the thinnings in salads. Generous watering in dry spells is vital to avoid coarse Chicory texture and fiery f lavor, but top-dressing with fertilizer is unnecessary. For fall and Cichorium intybus winter crops, protection with cloches, cold frames, or even a f leece tunnel cloche (see SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER pp.46–48) improves quality and reliability. SOW •••••••• • ■ Harvesting Harvest by picking choice leaves, TRANSPLANT • leaving the lower part of the plant to resprout HARVEST ••• for further harvests. • ••••• ■ Common problems There are few problems but aphids (see p.251), f lea beetle on seedlings Chicory, also known as Belgian endive, is (see p.255), and slugs and snails (see p.262) may relatively cold- and drought-resistant, and makes occasionally be troublesome. a handsome plant in the ornamental vegetable garden. When eaten raw in salads, the taste of Arugula the leaves can be bitter, although sometimes such bitterness is welcome. Chicory can also Eruca vesicaria be cooked. There are three types of chicory. SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER Witloof, or Belgian, chicory grows as a SOW •••••• rosette of leaves forming a deep root, which HARVEST when harvested and trimmed can be forced in •• •• ••• • • • • a warm, dark place to produce white, compact, leafy buds, or chicons (see p.102 and below), with Arugula is a tangy member of the cabbage the bitterness blanched out. family, whose young leaves add a “roast chicken” f lavor to salads. It is a common ingredient Red chicory, also known as radicchio, and of supermarket salad packages, where it may sugarloaf chicory both form hearts, like those sometimes be called erugala, rucola, or roquette. of lettuces. The heart leaves are less bitter than Wild (Diplotaxis species) and Turkish arugula the outer leaves, being naturally blanched or (Bunias orientalis) are almost identical, with subtly deprived of light. Red and sugarloaf chicory will different, more aromatic, but equally delicious, normally yield 8–9 heads per 10ft (3m) row. A proportion of plants always fails to produce good hearts; older cultivars are especially vulnerable.
104 VEGETABLES ■ Site and soil Chicory prefers an open, sunny ‘Witloof ’—good for forcing. broad-leaved endive is more reliable for late site, but will tolerate light shade. It does well on ‘Zoom’—Witloof chicory, for forcing. crops. The bitterness can be reduced by poor soils and needs little fertilizer, making it excluding light to whiten or blanch the suitable for organic gardens. Corn salad leaves (see below), making a refreshing late- ■ Sowing and planting Sow Witloof chicory, summer or early-winter salad or cooked in late spring and early summer for forcing Valerianella locusta vegetable, although sometimes unblanched (see below) in fall. Sow red and sugarloaf chicories bitterness is appreciated in salads. from mid-spring to late summer. Spring sowings SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER may bolt (see p.101) due to cold and even bolt- SOW/PLANT ••••• • ••• Endives can withstand light frosts, and resistant cultivars are safest raised in trays in TRANSPLANT •• therefore remain usable into the fall. They warm conditions, then planted out beneath f leece HARVEST ••• mature over a period of 12 weeks, and will or cloches. To grow red and sugarloaf chicories as •• •• •• require an additional two weeks to be cut-and-come-again crops (see p.102), sow indoors blanched. Plants should yield 9–10 heads in late winter, spring, and fall, or sow outdoors Corn salad provides tasty salad leaves in rosettes per 10ft (3m) row. from early summer to late summer. with a mild, earthy f lavor in fall and winter, ■ Site and soil Endives prefer an open, when lettuce crops have gone over. It can be sunny site and fertile, moisture-retentive SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) useful in summer salads as well. If sown before soil, with only low levels of nitrogen. Light PLANT SPACING 9in (23cm) for Witloof type midsummer, however, it is liable to run quickly shade is tolerable for midsummer crops. 1ft (30cm) for red, sugarloaf types to seed. It is used in supermarket salad packs, ■ Sowing and planting Either sow in ROW SPACING 1ft (30cm) often called lamb’s lettuce or mache. There are trays under cover in spring (see p.64) for two types: a large-leaved form and a smaller, transplanting in early to midsummer, or ■ Routine care Witloof chicory produces darker-leaved form. Corn salad matures in 4–12 sow directly outdoors in early summer. chicons from roots that are 11⁄2–2in (3.5–5cm) weeks, and yields 18–20 plants per 10ft (3m) row. Early crops may be liable to bolt (see p.101), in diameter. To force these in position outdoors, ■ Site and soil Any moderately fertile soil but bolt-resistant cultivars are available. cut off the leaves in early fall, leaving a 2in in a sunny, open position is suitable. For fall Endives may also be grown as a cut-and-come- (5cm) stub. Draw soil over the plants into and winter crops, protection with cloches, again crop (see p.102) under protection from a 6in (15cm) ridge. The chicons will form cold frames, or even a f leece tunnel cloche spring to late summer. under the soil, especially if cloches (see p.46) (see pp.46–48) improves quality and reliability. are used to provide extra warmth and rain ■ Sowing and planting Either sow in moist SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) protection. However, better results are often soil where the plants are to grow, or raise PLANT SPACING 9in (23cm) achieved by forcing indoors (see p.102) at a seedlings in trays for planting out as soon as they ROW SPACING 12–14in (30–35cm) temperature of 50–64°F (10–18°C). Although can be handled (see p.101). Corn salad may also be soil or a similar covering used to be required grown as a cut-and-come-again crop (see p.102). ■ Routine care Using cloches or unheated for well-shaped, compact chicons, modern greenhouse protection (see pp.43–48) will cultivars (see below) need only darkness, such SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) extend the harvest period into winter. Early as that provided by an inverted bucket. It is a PLANT SPACING 4in (10cm) sowings may bolt (see p.101) if exposed to good idea to keep a stock of roots for forcing ROW SPACING 6in (15cm) excess cold, of less than 15ºF (5ºC) for several in boxes of moist soil or sand until they are days early in life. Using bolt-resistant cultivars needed. Some kinds of red chicory may also ■ Routine care Thin seedlings (see p.101), and (see below) and cloches or f leece coverings (see be forced to produce small chicons. use the thinnings for salads. Watering in dry p.101) can help to counter this problem. spells is sometimes helpful, but top-dressings of ■ Harvesting When the heads reach full size, Red and sugarloaf chicories need watering fertilizer are unnecessary. usually three months after sowing, blanch each in dry spells and feeding with a nitrogen-rich ■ Harvesting After 4–12 weeks, harvest by one by covering the entire plant for about fertilizer if growth f lags. For late supplies dig picking choice leaves or cutting the head from 10 days (or 20 days in cold weather), with an up some of the plants and replant them in an the lower part of the plant, which may resprout inverted, lightproof container such as a bucket, unheated greenhouse. Alternatively, protect for further harvests. or by laying an inverted dinner plate over the them with straw or a tunnel cloche (see p.46). ■ Common problems Aphids, slugs, and snails central area. Rots can be damaging at this stage; ■ Harvesting Blanched chicons of Witloof are occasionally troublesome. For symptoms and covering the heads with a cloche can help to chicory will be ready for eating about a month controls, see Plant Problems, p.251 and p.262. dry them out. Alternatively, use twine to tie after being covered for forcing. The heads of ■ Recommended cultivars the head into a tight bunch in order to exclude red and sugarloaf chicory should be gathered ‘Cavallo’—small-leaved, neat growth. light from the inner leaves. Use the heads as after 2–3 months, when they are fully formed ‘Large Leafed English’—large-leaved. soon as they are blanched, since greenness and and firm. Unlike those of lettuces, the heads ‘Verte de Cambrai’—small-leaved, vigorous. bitterness will soon return when they are are long-lasting (2–8 weeks, depending on ‘Vit’—modern, small-leaved, earthy f lavor. exposed to light again. the weather) and can be stored in a cool place ■ Common problems Slugs (see p.262), until needed. After harvesting, the resulting Endive aphids (see p.251), lettuce root aphid (see p.257), stumps will often sprout another crop of usable and caterpillars can damage foliage and roots. leaves, about 2–6 weeks later. Cichorium endivia Tip burn (see p.263), associated with a lack ■ Common problems Slugs (see p.262), aphids of calcium, occurs mainly on dry, light soils. (see p.251), lettuce root aphid (see p.257), and SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ■ Recommended cultivars caterpillars can damage chicory foliage and roots. SOW ••••• ‘Grobo’—broad-leaved, bolt-resistant. Tip burn (see p.263) is a physiological disorder TRANSPLANT •• ‘Natacha’—prettiest and best-performing associated with lack of calcium, and especially HARVEST •••••• escarole. troublesome on very dry, light soils. ‘Tres Fine Maracichere’—heart of finely ■ Recommended cultivars Endive is similar to lettuce, although it has a cut, frilly leaves are mild, slighlty bitter, ‘Palla Rossa’—red chicory, an old favorite. bitter taste, and grows as a rosette. The leaves and delicious. ‘Pain de Sucre’—sugarloaf, hearted. may be curled (frisée type) or broad-leaved ‘Batavian Full Heart’—the slightly twisted ‘Rossa Di Verona’—red chicory, traditional (Batavian type). The former are extremely leaves have a sharper f lavor and more substance cultivar, good f lavor, variable heads. attractive in gardens or salads, but the hardier than lettuce.
A–Z OF SALAD CROPS 105 Ice plant ■ Sowing and planting Sow outdoors in available; these contain reliable cultivars and mid- to late summer or in trays (see p.64) are an inexpensive way of growing a variety Mesembryanthemum crystallinum in late summer for transplanting. Thin the of lettuces and so staggering the harvest. seedlings (see p.101) to 4in (10cm) if you desire SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER only small plants, and 18in (45cm) for large Unheated cloches, cold frames, and even SOW • ones. Japanese mustard spinach may also be f leece (see pp.43–45) can be used to extend the TRANSPLANT • grown as a cut-and-come-again crop (see p.102). harvest period for this hardy annual, although HARVEST ••••• heated greenhouses are essential if you want SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) to have a winter crop. These trailing tender perennials have unusual, SEED SPACING 1in (2.5cm) swollen, succulent leaves. The leaves and young ROW SPACING 9in (23cm) for small plants From a spring sowing, mini-lettuces will stems have a tangy f lavor when eaten raw in 18in (45cm) for large plants mature in 8–10 weeks, butterheads in 10–12 salads or cooked in the same way as spinach. weeks, crispheads and cos in 12–13 weeks, The plants mature in 4–12 weeks, yielding a ■ Routine care Japanese mustard spinach and icebergs in 14 weeks. Mini-lettuces yield 10lb (4.5kg) crop per 10ft (3m) row. Named will tolerate temperatures as low as 10°F (–12°C), 18–20 heads per 10ft (3m) row, butterheads cultivars are not offered. and is fairly drought-tolerant, so little attention 9–12 heads, cos 9–12 heads, and crispheads ■ Site and soil Well-drained, fertile, moisture- is required, but a few plants may be lifted and and iceberg 8–9 heads. retentive soil and a sunny site are best. grown under cover for a winter crop in case of ■ Site and soil Open, sunny sites are best, ■ Sowing and planting Sow under cover in extreme temperatures. but light shade is acceptable for midsummer trays (see p.64), planting out when frost no longer ■ Harvesting Pick choice leaves as soon as crops. Fertile, moisture-retentive soils are threatens in early summer. New plants may be they are ready. Regrowth will occur, giving needed for best-quality lettuces. raised later from soft-tip cuttings, taken from a prolonged harvest period. ■ Sowing and planting Lettuces intended nonf lowering shoots and rooted in well-drained ■ Common problems Flea beetle (see p.255) for an early-summer harvest can be sown under compost, for summer supplies. Ice plant may be and slugs (see p.262) may cause minor damage. cover (see p.101) from winter to early spring, grown as a cut-and-come-again crop (see p.102). Cabbage root f ly (see p.253), which can be and planted out in spring. Lettuces for a summer very destructive, is best avoided by growing harvest can be sown outdoors where they are to SOWING DEPTH 3⁄4in (2cm) under f leece or insect-proof mesh (see p.48). crop, from early spring onwards, in a continuous SEED SPACING 6in (15cm) As a member of the brassica family, this trickle. Thin the resulting seedlings (see p.101) ROW SPACING 1ft (30cm) crop might also be affected by a range of to the required spacing, using the thinnings in problems. These include birds, boron deficiency, salad leaves. Alternatively, to save time when ■ Routine care Thin seedlings (see p.68), and bolting, caterpillars, clubroot, cutworm, thinning and to economize on seed, opt for use the thinnings for salads. Watering in dry damping off, downy mildew, frost damage, station sowing the seed (see p.101). spells is sometimes helpful, but top-dressings leaf spot, aphid, leather jackets, molybdenum of fertilizer are unnecessary. deficiency, whitef ly, and white blister. Grow Hardy cultivars can be sown outdoors in late ■ Harvesting Pick tender young leaves and in the brassica part of the rotation (see p.31) winter, or in mild areas in early fall, to crop in stems as soon as they are large enough. Regular to avoid clubroot and other soil-borne brassica the spring. Protecting the crop with cloches harvesting encourages production of tender problems. For symptoms and controls, see Plant and cold frames (see pp.45–47) will advance the regrowth. Pickings will stay fresh for several Problems, pp.246–264. harvest by about three weeks, greatly improve days in a refrigerator. the quality, and make success more likely if the ■ Common problems Slugs are the only real Lettuce weather is frosty or very wet. Fleece covering problem. For symptoms and controls, see Plant (see p.101) advances harvest by about two weeks. Problems, p.262. Lactuca sativa Lettuce seedlings resent root disturbance Japanese mustard SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER when transplanted and may soon wilt, especially spinach SOW •• •• •• • •• in summer. Although they can be raised in seed TRANSPLANT ••• trays or open ground and transplanted as bare- HARVEST •• •• •• ••• root plants, you will achieve better results by sowing them in module trays (see p.101), and Brassica rapa var. perviridis There are two types of lettuce: those that form transplanting as soon as they can be handled, hearts or heads, and those that do not. Large, before they have six leaves. Position the base SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER heart-forming lettuces include the cabbagelike of the leaves just above soil level. The depth of SOW •• ••• butterheads, the crinkled crispheads, and the seedling is crucial—too deep and it may TRANSPLANT • the cos types. Iceberg lettuces are crispheads rot off, too shallow and it will produce a poorly HARVEST ••• that develop for another two weeks, forming shaped lettuce. Water generously until the extremely dense heads. They need large amounts transplants are well-established. Japanese mustard spinach, or komatsuna, is of water and fertilizer, and are much more a diverse group of leafy brassicas with glossy demanding than other lettuces. Mini-lettuces Leafy lettuces, such as Salad Bowl types, green foliage that may be eaten raw in fall are small-hearted cultivars that are well-suited may also be grown as a cut-and-come-again and winter salads or cooked in the same way to home gardens. Nonhearting lettuces include crop (see p.102). as spinach. They will grow into large, robust the Salad Bowl type and stem lettuces. Leaves plants if left to mature fully, but can be of Salad Bowl lettuces can be repeatedly SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) harvested earlier, as small plants, if desired. harvested, but are less tasty than mini-lettuces. MINI-LETTUCE This affects how they are grown (see below). Stem lettuces are seldom grown today, but yield PLANT SPACING 6in (15cm) The plants mature in 4–12 weeks, and yield leaves and a succulent stem that can be eaten ROW SPACING 9in (23cm) 6–9 heads per 10ft (3m) row. Named cultivars like celery. Lettuces tend to mature in a rush, BUTTERHEAD are seldom offered. leading to gluts, and frequent sowings of small PLANT SPACING 10in (25cm) ■ Site and soil Open, sunny sites and fertile batches of seed are recommended to ensure ROW SPACING 12in (30cm) soils are best, but light shade is acceptable for an even supply. Packets of mixed cultivars are OTHER TYPES midsummer crops. PLANT SPACING 14in (35cm) ROW SPACING 15in (38cm) ■ Routine care Water in dry spells, especially in the two weeks before the hearts reach full
106 VEGETABLES maturity. Feeding is not usually necessary Mibuna greens in 4–5 days, and the seedlings can be cut after on reasonably fertile soils but, if growth and Mizuna greens 8–12 days. Cress takes about two days longer to is particularly slow, top-dress occasionally germinate than mustard, and can be cut after with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (see p.20) at Brassica rapa and Brassica rapa var. 10–14 days. Named cultivars of mustard and cress the manufacturer’s recommended rate. nipposinica are seldom offered. Mustard is often replaced by ■ Harvesting Begin to gather leaves from rape (Brassica napus subsp. oleifera), which has a leafy lettuces, and thinnings from hearting SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER stronger f lavor. Plain-leaved cress is usually sold; lettuces, as soon as they are usable. When SOW ••••• • •• this grows better in winter than curled cress. cutting leafy lettuces, leave 1in (2.5cm) of TRANSPLANT • ■ Site and soil Warm (50–60ºF/10–16ºC), well- the stem to resprout for later harvests. Cut HARVEST •• ••• lit windowsills, greenhouses, and conservatories hearting lettuces as soon as the hearts are and, in the summer, cloches or cold frames (see mature, in order to prevent rotting and bolting Mibuna and mizuna greens are types of Japanese pp.45–47) are best for growing mustard and cress. (see p.101). Solid, sound hearts may be stored brassica with rosettes of attractive, glossy green Trays or pots filled with old potting or growing- in a refrigerator for several days. Butterhead or red foliage and a succulent stem that can be bag compost provide ideal conditions. Outdoor and nonhearting types of lettuce run to seed eaten raw in salads or cooked like spinach. The crops need shelter and light shade, and they risk much faster than crispheads or cos lettuce. leaves have a mild mustard f lavor, even when contamination from splashed soil. ■ Common problems Cutworms (see p.254) they are mature, and are good for winter harvests ■ Sowing and planting Seeds must be fresh to may eat the roots. Slugs and snails (see p.262), and container cultivation. Mibuna greens have germinate quickly and evenly. Outdoor sowings and aphids (see p.251) can damage foliage. a stronger f lavor and straplike leaves, but are should only be made between late spring and late Fungal rots, or botrytis (see p.252), and downy less hardy; mizuna greens have feathery leaves. summer. Mustard should be sown two days after mildew (see p.255) occur in wet weather, cress where mixed crops are wanted. Crops can especially in fall. Mildew and rotting leaves You can grow mibuna or mizuna greens as also be raised on a thick layer of moist kitchen can usually be cut out at harvest, leaving small plants that will yield several harvests of towel (see p.65). Scatter the seeds lightly over a sound heads. Lettuce root aphid (see p.257) young salad leaves. Pick the leaves when they fine level surface, gently press them in, lightly is very damaging in some districts, but resistant are large enough and as required. Alternatively, water them with tepid water and cover with a cultivars are available. There may be occasional leave them to mature into large plants, which damp cloth or a tile until germination has taken damage to roots from leather jackets (see p.257) are better cooked. Plants will mature in 4–12 place. Mustard and cress may also be grown as and wireworms (see p.264). Virus diseases weeks, and yield 6–9 heads per 10ft (3m) row. a cut-and-come-again crop (see p.102). can be avoided by using good-quality seed, Named cultivars are seldom offered. eliminating aphids, and avoiding repeated ■ Site and soil Open, sunny sites and fertile SOWING DEPTH on the surface cropping on the same piece of ground. Tip soils are preferred. SEED SPACING almost touching burn (see p.263) is a physiological disorder ■ Sowing and planting Sow in late summer ROW SPACING almost touching associated with lack of calcium, and can be and early fall under cover (see p.101), in position especially troublesome on dry, light soils. in early and midsummer, or indoors in mid- to ■ Routine care Keep soil or other growing ■ Recommended cultivars late spring. Thin (see p.101) to 4in (10cm) apart medium moist. Mini-lettuce for small plants and 18in (45cm) for large ones. ■ Harvesting Cut at the base of the stems with ‘Little Gem’—mini-cos, good texture and These greens may be grown as a cut-and-come- scissors when the seedlings are 11⁄2–2in (4–5cm) f lavor, fast-growing, root aphid-resistant. again crop (see p.102). tall and the seed leaves or cotyledons are fully ‘Little Leprechaun’—red ‘Little Gem’ type. developed and green. ‘Pandero’—mini-cos, pretty, red, tasty. SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) ■ Common problems Damping off (see p.254), ‘Pinokkio’—‘Little Gem’ type, fast-growing. PLANT SPACING 4in (10cm) for small plants where seedling growth is slow or uneven, can ‘Tom Thumb’—mini-butterhead, sweet 18in (45cm) for large plants ruin the salads. Keeping them warmer and using f lavor, very hardy, ideal for earliest crops. ROW SPACING 9in (23cm) better-quality seeds can help. Gray mold (Botrytis Butterhead cinerea, p.252) can also be a problem in overly ‘Buttercrunch’—heat-tolerant, slow to bolt. ■ Routine care Water in dry spells to keep damp conditions. ‘Diana’—large leafy heads, melting texture. the soil moist. ■ Recommended cultivars ‘Esmeralda’—large frame, broad disease ■ Harvesting For salads, pick choice young Mustard resistance. leaves as soon as they are ready. Regrowth ‘White’—true mustard, stronger f lavor than Cos will occur 2–8 weeks later (depending on the salad rape. ‘Freckles’—glossy green, semi-savoy leaves weather) for a prolonged harvest. Cut large Salad rape with maroon splashes. plants when mature. ‘Broad-leaved Essex’—mild-f lavored alternative ‘Winter Density’—small cos, fall and ■ Common problems In common with other to true mustard. spring sown. crops from the brassica family, these greens Cress Crisphead and iceberg are prey to a range of problems, as for Japanese ‘Extra Double Curled’—curled leaves. ‘Concept’—exceptionally sweet, heat-resistant. mustard spinach (see p.104). For symptoms and ‘Plain’—smooth leaves with stronger f lavor; said ‘Summertime’—delicious, crunchy lettuce controls, see Plant Problems, pp.246–264. to grow well in winter. grown in the heat of the summer. ‘Polycress’—especially fast-growing. ‘Webbs Wonderful’—crisphead, sprawling. Leafy Mustard and cress Purslane ‘Black Seeded Simpson’—leafy Batavian type with good f lavor. Sinapis alba and Lepidium sativum ‘Emerald Oakleaf ’—compact, jewel-green, curvaceous leaves, dense, buttery-hearted head. SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER Portulaca oleracea ‘Lollo Rossa’—a favorite for its color. SOW •• •• ••• • • • •• ‘Mottistone’—leafy Batavian type, red leaves. HARVEST •• •• ••• • • • •• SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ‘Red Salad Bowl’—reliable repeat-cropper. SOW ••• ‘Salad Bowl’—good for repeat crops. Mustard and cress are tasty, fast-growing salad HARVEST •••• crops that are especially valuable between mid- fall and mid-spring. Mustard seeds germinate There are green- and yellow-leaved forms of this half-hardy, succulent, low-growing plant.
A–Z OF SALAD CROPS 107 The leaves and stems are either eaten raw or Seedling leaves can be used as cut-and-come- radishes beneath a f leece or insect-proof fine lightly cooked or steamed. The green forms again salads (see p.102), while immature seed woven mesh (see p.101), which also promotes are more vigorous, but are less striking in pods of older plants are also edible. speedy growth and excellent quality. Grow decorative mixed salads than the yellow form. ■ Site and soil Open, sunny sites are best, winter radishes in the brassica part of a Both forms of purslane have a relatively mild but light shade is acceptable for midsummer rotation (see p.31) to avoid clubroot (see p.254) f lavor and crunchy texture. Plants mature in crops. Fertile, moisture-retentive soils are and other soil-borne brassica problems. 4–12 weeks, and produce the equivalent of needed for good-quality summer radishes, ■ Recommended cultivars 20–24 bunches per 10ft (3m) row. Named but winter radishes are more tolerant. Summer radish cultivars are not offered. ■ Sowing and planting Radishes grow ‘Cherry Belle’—fast-growing. ■ Site and soil Well-drained soil and a very quickly, soon maturing and becoming ‘French Breakfast 3’—good-quality roots. sunny, sheltered site are preferred. fibrous and inedible, so that successional ‘Scarlet Globe’—reliable, old favorite. ■ Sowing and planting Sow successionally, sowings every two weeks are necessary for ‘Short Top Forcing’—very fast-growing, sowing a new batch of seed when seedlings continuous cropping. Some small-leaved with small foliage; it is ideal for growing in from the previous sowing have produced a cultivars have been specially bred for early cold frames and cloches. couple of true leaves, for a constant supply cropping; sow these directly into trays (see Winter radish of edible leaves. Early sowings should be p.64) or small pots, in mid- to late winter ‘Black Spanish Round’—very hardy, old made under cover (see p.101). Purslane may for planting out in mid-spring. Make favorite, ideal for cold gardens. also be grown as a cut-and-come-again crop follow-on sowings of normal cultivars in ‘Mantanghong’—red, hardy. (see p.102). early spring under cloches, cold frames, or ‘Minowase’—white-skinned, long, Japanese- even f leece tunnel cloches (see pp.46–47). type with delicate f lavor. SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) Subsequent sowings of summer radishes ‘Munchen Bier’—good for edible pods. PLANT SPACING 6in (15cm) should be made outdoors. ROW SPACING 6in (15cm) One sowing of winter radish in mid- to ■ Routine care Thin out the seedlings when late summer provides for fall harvest and Winter purslane large enough (see p.101) and use the thinnings winter storage. Plant out stored roots to in salads. Generous watering in dry spells is f lower the following year and provide edible Montia perfoliata essential to maintain healthy growth. pods. Earlier sowing of winter types results ■ Harvesting Pick the tender young leaves in bolting (see p.101), unless bolt-resistant SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER and stems as soon as they are large enough. cultivars can be found. Thin seedlings (see SOW ••••• ••• • Regular gathering encourages the production p.101) of summer types to 1in (2.5cm) apart TRANSPLANT • of fresh tender new growth, as long as some (double this for early covered crops), and HARVEST •• leaves are left on the plant after harvesting. winter types to 6–9in (15–23cm) apart. Keep Remove any seedheads that develop. the crops well watered, but do not overwater This half-hardy plant, also known as miner’s ■ Common problems Slugs and snails may them—excessive moisture can encourage leaf lettuce or claytonia, has pale, succulent leaves occasionally be troublesome. For symptoms production at the expense of root growth. that may be used, together with tender stems and controls, see Plant Problems, p.262. and f lowers, in salads. Winter purslane thrives SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) in poor soils and dry conditions, and frequently Radish PLANT SPACING 1⁄2in (1cm) for summer radish self seeds. It is easily controlled, however, and 9in (23cm) for winter radish unlikely to become a nuisance. Plants mature ROW SPACING 6in (15cm) for summer radish over a period of about 12 weeks, and yield the 12in (30cm) for winter radish equivalent of 20–24 bunches per 10ft (3m) row. Raphanus sativa Named cultivars are not offered. ■ Site and soil Choose a well-drained, SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ■ Routine care Adding organic matter sunny site, and moderately fertile soil. SOW •• •• ••• •• before sowing (see p.68) will help maintain ■ Sowing and planting Sow in moist soil TRANSPLANT soil moisture as well as providing adequate where the plants are to grow, or raise seedlings HARVEST • •• nutrients. Water to keep the soil moist; in dry indoors in trays (see p.64) for planting out ••••••• spells, this may mean watering every week. when all risk of frost has passed. Winter purslane Radishes may also be used for intersowing may also be grown as a cut-and-come-again There are two main types of this fast-growing, with parsnips (see p.69). crop (see p.102). crunchy, slightly hot root vegetable, which ■ Harvesting and storing Use summer is used mainly as a salad ingredient. Summer radishes as soon as the roots are large enough SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) radishes are small, round, cylindrical, or and before they become “woolly.” Winter PLANT SPACING 6in (15cm) pointed, and are used when no larger than radishes may be left in the ground until they ROW SPACING 9in (23cm) a walnut. Winter radishes are larger, and are needed, and may then reach the same turniplike. Summer radishes usually have size as turnips or rutabagas. They may be ■ Routine care Thin seedlings (see p.101), red, pink, or white skins, but winter radishes damaged by frost, however; to avoid this, using the thinnings for salads. Regular may also have black, purple, yellow, or green lift in fall and store in the same way as other watering or top-dressing with fertilizer skins; all usually have white f lesh. Small root crops (see p.73). are unnecessary. roots are used raw as a salad ingredient, while ■ Harvesting When the plants are mature, the larger roots can also be used raw, or can To produce edible pods, leave some roots pick leaves, stems, and f lowers, leaving the be cooked in the same way as turnips or to sprout and f lower, and gather the pods lower part of the plant in the ground. More rutabagas. Oriental mooli radishes are grown while they are still green and crisp, before leaves will be produced, giving several in the same way as winter radishes. Summer they get stringy. Radish leaves can also furnish more harvests. Resprouting of new leaves radish plants take 2–8 weeks to mature, yielding useful greens in the same manner as turnip may take from 2–6 weeks. a crop of 100–120 radishes per 10ft (3m) row. tops (see p.88). ■ Common problems Aphids, slugs, and They can also be grown as a catch crop. In ■ Common problems Flea beetle (see p.255), snails may occasionally be troublesome. For the summer, maturation rates are more rapid. slugs and snails (see p.262) may cause minor symptoms and controls, see Plant Problems, Winter radish matures in 8–10 weeks, with damage. Cabbage root f ly (see p.253) can be p.251 and p.262. a yield of 10 roots per 10ft (3m) row. very destructive, and is best avoided by growing
108 VEGETABLES Growing fruiting vegetables Plants in this group of vegetables, soils will limit their growth. Try to Using a microclimate which are grown for their “fruits,” exploit any warm microclimates in your When growing tender crops, such as this range from perhaps the most popular garden, for example, by planting crops eggplant, outdoors in a temperate climate plant kitchen-garden crop—tomatoes, vine next to a sunny wall (see right), in a them against a sheltered, sunny wall. The wall or bush types—to more exotic crops sheltered corner, or in a raised bed. absorbs heat and radiates it back onto the such as okra and tomatillo. Others that plant at night, raising the local temperature. are well worth trying are eggplants, You can also help nature along sweet and chile peppers, and corn. by prewarming the soil with a clear the daytime, and 60°F (16°C) minimum plastic sheet mulch (see p.42) or a cloche at night. Make sure that any windowsill Fruiting vegetables are all half-hardy, covering from mid-spring, so that you you are using for seedlings does not and need a long, hot summer in order can sow or plant out fruiting vegetables become cooler than this temperature at for the fruits to ripen fully. For this earlier in the season and give them as any time during the night. Some crops, reason, they need to be sown quite much time as possible for growth. especially eggplant and okra, benefit early in the season, at a time when from a polyethylene or fleece tent to many temperate regions are still too SOWING UNDER COVER raise humidity; simply hang this over cold for them. This means that it is Many crops in this group, especially a wire hoop or short stakes pushed into essential in the early stages to provide eggplants, okra, peppers, and tomatillo, the soil at the edge of the pot. some form of protection, such as have small seeds that produce tiny, slow- cloches or f leece (see pp.46–48), if the growing seedlings needing an early start When the seedlings are large plants are to produce a successful crop. in a greenhouse, a cold frame, or even a enough to handle, prick them out windowsill from an early spring sowing. (see p.64) into individual 3in (8cm) SITE AND SOIL The majority of fruiting vegetables bear pots, large module trays, tube pots, Well-drained, light soils that warm fruits over several weeks, eliminating or biodegradeable pots (see p.62). The up quickly in the spring are best for the need for successional sowing. latter are best for plants that resent root this group of vegetables. Sowing and disturbance. Feed the seedlings with a harvesting may need to be delayed Sow the seeds thinly in pots of balanced liquid fertilizer (see pp.22–23) where the soil is predominantly clay multipurpose compost, adding sufficient if growth appears pale, and especially if and consequently slow to warm. vermiculite or sifted compost to cover the lower leaves start to turn yellow. Adding organic matter (see pp.37–40) the seeds (see p.64). Warm conditions, will improve the structure of the soil, with a minimum temperature of A limited range of eggplants, speeding up both the drainage and 60°F (16°C), are needed for successful cucumbers, peppers, and tomatoes warming of the ground. Fruiting germination, and this is best provided are offered as grafted plants, vegetables can be very deep-rooting, by a heated propagator (see p.63). where individual cultivars have and shallow, waterlogged, or compacted When seedlings emerge, transfer the been grafted onto disease-resistant Planting corn in a block pots to better-lit conditions, such as a rootstocks. These plants are vigorous Corn relies on the wind for pollination, so greenhouse or a sunny windowsill in and can be grown where soil-borne plant out seedlings in a block of several short, the house. The seedlings will still require problems occur. Seed of rootstocks staggered rows to increase the chances of warmth of at least 64°F (18°C) during is available, but the process is beyond successful pollination occurring. the scope of most home gardeners. Sides of each cell are grooved SOWING OUTDOORS Corn has much larger seeds that grow to train roots quickly, and therefore they can be station Root trainers These containers snap together to form long cells—useful for plants that require deep rooting space, such as corn. They can be opened out easily to remove and transplant the seedling plug without disturbing the roots. Root trainers can be reused many times.
GROWING FRUITING VEGETABLES 109 sown (see p.66) outdoors in milder areas ◀ Sheet mulch ▲ Removing from mid-spring. For early crops, and To minimize weed tomato sideshoots in colder districts, raise corn seedlings growth around your When growing vine under cover in tube pots (see p.62) or crop (here corn) tomatoes, pinch biodegradable pots, at least 31⁄2in (9cm) and help conserve out with your finger in diameter. These will hold the long moisture, lay a black and thumb any side- roots of corn seedlings in their entirety, plastic sheet mulch shoots that appear and there will be no danger of damaging on the bed and plant in the angles between them at transplanting, which could result through it. the main stem and in the plant becoming stunted. any of the leaf stems. For later crops or to extend the growing season, corn can be sown in succession (see p.69). Alternatively, you can grow a selection of cultivars that crop at different times. PLANTING OUT the final site. Careful planting is to free some space in the greenhouse, essential to prevent a check in growth, if desired, but cropping will take place The young plants should be ready for which would curtail the period of earlier if you wait until they are at transplanting into their final positions, cropping and the number of fruits f lowering stage before planting out. either outdoors or in a greenhouse, produced. Covering with f leece (see when the roots have fully filled the pot, p.101) after planting, for two weeks, PLANTING CORN IN BLOCKS but before they become overcrowded, provides extra warmth and humidity usually after about 18 weeks. Harden when the plants are at their most Plant out corn seedlings that have been young plants off (see p.65) before delicate. You can transplant plants that grown under cover in tube pots when planting outdoors, by placing them in are not yet at f lowering stage, in order the plants are 3in (8cm) tall. Because either a cold frame or beneath a double they are wind-pollinated, it is best layer of f leece for at least a week; in to plant them in blocks of at least these situations, temperature and 12 plants, no closer than 14in (34cm) humidity levels fall midway between apart, in a series of short rows (see facing those of the seedling pot and those of page), rather than in single rows. This gives the plants a much better chance Providing support for fruiting crops of being pollinated successfully, which is necessary for the production of cobs. Because of the weight of their fruits, some heavy crops you may need stronger fruiting vegetables, such as tomatoes and supports such as sawn-timber stakes. peppers, need supporting. Bamboo stakes The taller the crop, the more substantial and twine are often adequate, but for very the support system should be (see below). Supporting short crops Supporting tall crops MULCHING When lower-growing crops such as peppers Taller-growing crops like vine tomatoes are (shown here) begin to form fruits, place 3–5 best trained up single bamboo stakes tied Fruiting vegetables grow slowly and bamboo stakes around each plant and tie in into a greenhouse structure for stability. can easily be smothered by weeds. the stems with figure-eight loops of twine. Tie the plants to the stakes as they grow. Plastic sheet and organic mulches (see above and pp.41–42) will prevent this from happening, and are especially valuable inside cloches and cold frames where weeding may be difficult. Before planting, laying a sheet of black plastic, or clear plastic over black, can warm the soil as well as suppressing weeds. You can plant through slits cut in the plastic sheet mulch (see p.77). Mulching prevents evaporation. The f loppy habit of bush tomatoes leads to fruits lying on the ground, where they are prone to slugs and other problems. Mulching with straw or black plastic keeps the fruits clean and free from slug damage or rots.
110 VEGETABLES CONTAINER GROWING is insufficient. Inadequate or irregular Only remove leaves if they turn yellow Most fruiting vegetables, excluding water is often the cause. Better watering or become diseased; otherwise, cropping corn, grow well in pots of at least 10in usually prevents blossom end rot (for may be reduced. An exception to this (25cm) in diameter, or three plants to controls, see p.252). rule is tomatoes (see p.113). a growing bag. The best position for a container is against a warm, sunny wall ROUTINE CARE If using containers, do not allow pots near the house, where the extra heat and The compact size of bush tomatoes to dry out. Add a controlled-release light speed cropping and boost flavor. allows them to be covered throughout fertilizer before planting or apply a their growing period with cloches, cold balanced liquid fertilizer weekly if Tomatoes are especially suitable for frames, or fleece (see pp.45–48). Cloches growth slows (see pp.20–21). growing in containers, and the bigger and cold frames exclude rain, preventing the container, the easier they are to diseases that flourish in the humid HARVESTING manage. Large pots, 14in (35cm) in environment of the foliage. Fleece is Most fruiting vegetables are ready for diameter, filled with compost from less effective at reducing disease, but is harvesting in late summer. Regular used growing bags, are suitable without less likely to overheat in hot weather. picking encourages continuous fruit being unwieldy. Growing-bag compost production. Sever the fruits, with a piece is specially formulated to suit tomatoes. Fruiting vegetables need fertile soil of stalk, using a sharp knife or pruners. Unfortunately, growing bags contain in order to produce a succession of Harvesting can usually be prolonged only a small volume of compost, which fruits. Before planting them, apply a into the fall by using a protective fleece rapidly dries out. Avoid this problem general fertilizer (see pp.20–21) at a rate layer, held clear of the plants by hoops by growing only two plants per bag of 1–2oz per sq yd (35–70g per sq m). of wire inserted into the soil (see p.47). rather than three, or by planting in Alternatively, use 11⁄2–3oz per sq yd a pot with an open base, filled with (50–100g per sq m) of an organic food The fruits of most fruiting vegetables similar compost, on the surface of a such as dried poultry manure with a change color when they are ripe, but growing bag, to increase the volume of 5 percent nitrogen content (see pp.22– it is more difficult to tell when the cobs compost available and to ease watering. 23); use double this amount for corn. of corn are ready for harvesting, so you will need to test them first. The cobs Some bush tomatoes are extremely Water well in dry spells, at a rate of should also be broken off by hand compact, growing no larger than 9in 4 gallons per sq yd (20 liters per sq m). rather than cut (see below). (23cm) in both height and spread; where Adequate water supplies are especially space in the garden is short, these may necessary during the f lowering period, SEED SAVING be grown in hanging baskets. and as fruits swell. Saving seeds of fruiting vegetables such as corn and peppers, which cross- COMMON PROBLEMS For tall crops, like vine tomatoes, pinch pollinate readily, or F1 hybrids, where Peppers, including chiles, tomatoes, and out sideshoots (see p.109) to concentrate progeny seldom come true to type, is occasionally eggplants, suffer blackish, the plant’s energy into fruiting. Tall crops not worth attempting. It is, however, sunken patches at the flower or blossom may need staking. For bushy peppers and worth trying with the pulpy seeds of end of their fruits when calcium supply eggplants, pinch out the growing tip to ripe tomatoes (see p.61). encourage the production of sideshoots. Harvesting cobs of corn Testing for ripeness Picking a ripe cob With corn, it is quite difficult to tell when the cobs are ripe and therefore ready for harvesting. Because of this, cobs are often left on the plant for too long and are overripe when eventually picked. To ensure that you pick cobs when they are at their most tender, test for ripeness as soon as the tassels turn brown in late summer. Peel back a little of the husk, and insert a thumbnail or fingernail into one of the kernels (see far left). If the juice that comes out is milky, the cob is ripe; if the juice is clear, the cob is not yet ripe. Pick a ripe cob by pulling it sharply downward with one hand—supporting the rest of the plant with the other—until the cob snaps off (see left). Only pick cobs just before they are required; once they are harvested, the sweet flavor is rapidly lost.
A–Z OF FRUITING VEGETABLES 111 A–Z OF FRUITING VEGETABLES Corn SOWING DEPTH 1–11⁄2in (2.5–4cm) SEED/PLANT SPACING 14–18in (34–45cm) Zea mays ROW SPACING 18–24in (45–60cm) SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ■ Routine care Watering is not required until SOW •• f lowering starts, when the soil should be kept TRANSPLANT moist, or at least be given one thorough soak. HARVEST •• On windy sites, draw up soil around the bases ••• of the plants to give stability, or give support (see p.109). (See also Routine Care, p.110.) Home-grown corn cobs cooked within minutes ■ Harvesting Test for ripeness as soon as the of harvest taste superb. The kernels are usually tassels begin to dry up and turn brown, and if yellow, sometimes white or bicolored. Improved ready break off the cobs (see p.110). forms are regularly introduced (older cultivars ■ Common problems The seeds attract mice have poor growing characteristics and insipid (see p.257). Corn smut (see p.254) and frit f lies (see f lavor). Only one or two cobs are borne per p.255) attack occasionally but seldom cause heavy plant; normal yields are 6–9 cobs per sq yd (sq m). losses; crop rotation (see p.31) is the only control. Poor pollinating conditions may lead to gaps in Uniquely for vegetables, corn is a grass with the rows of ripe kernels. Birds (see p.252), squirrels long leaves, the base of which encloses the stem, (see p.262), and badgers (see p.251) may strip crops. and is pollinated by wind. Corn has architectural ■ Recommended cultivars qualities that make it valuable in ornamental ‘Bodacious’—triple-sweet variety, cutting edge kitchen gardens. The male flowers at the top of the in corn breeding technology. stem are called tassels. They shed pollen, carried on ‘Golden Jubilee’—one of the latest maturing the wind to the “silk,” which grows out of the cob varieties, excellent for late summer enjoyment. containing rows of female flowers. The cob, or ‘Ovation’—midseason, supersweet yellow. fruit, is enclosed in a sheath or husk of leafy bracts. ‘Stowell’s Evergreen’—leading white corn variety. ‘Sugar Pearl Hybrid’—tightly packed kernels of Supersweet corn has largely replaced the less gleaming ivory on blocky ears. sugary standard and sugar-enhanced varieties, and retains its very sweet flavor after picking. Chile and However, the less chewy, more tender Extra sweet pepper Tendersweet, which is almost as sweet, is widely grown. Synergistic corn, a new development, Capsicum annuum Longum Group combines the best of both, but few cultivars are and C. annuum Grossum Group currently available. Baby corn is grown from special varieties, or regular corn closely spaced. SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER SOW •• Nearby agricultural corn can cross-pollinate TRANSPLANT corn, leading to less tasty cobs. Purple and other HARVEST •• colored corn can also pollinate corn, leading to •••• less f lavorsome, parti-colored cobs. ■ Site and soil A warm, sunny, sheltered Home-grown sweet peppers have excellent site with light, warm, rich soil is vital (see p.108). color, texture, and f lavor, including shapes Cobs may not ripen in shade or windy sites. and colors not usually available in supermarkets. ■ Sowing and planting In cool areas, choose Chile peppers are equally varied and have a early cultivars, sow them in a greenhouse at hot taste, contained mainly in the seeds and 70–80ºF (20–27ºC), and plant out (see p.108) veins, which is essential for certain cuisines; when about 3in (8cm) tall. Block planting (see some forms are intended for ornament, with p.109) will increase the chances of successful colored foliage. Modern F1 hybrids are robust pollination, necessary for production of cobs. enough to crop reliably in cool seasons and If sowing outdoors, a soil temperature of at least gardens. Peppers are ideal for container and patio 50°F (10ºC) is essential, occurring in late spring cultivation; they yield 6–10lb (2.75–4.5kg) per in milder areas. Help germination, and growth 10ft (3m) row in cloches or frames; outdoors, after planting, by prewarming the soil with the yield will be lower. cloches or clear plastic (see p.108). Sow 2–3 seeds ■ Site and soil Any fertile, moisture-retentive per station (see p.108), using the wider spacing (see soil suits peppers if it drains well and warms below) where the soil is of poor quality. Thin to quickly in spring. Light soils are best; prewarm one strong seedling after germination. Seedlings heavy soils with cloches or clear plastic film. grow best at temperatures of 68–86°F (20–30ºC). Outdoors, a sunny, sheltered site is vital; otherwise, cover with cloches or cold frames. The harvest can be extended with a single ■ Sowing and planting Sow indoors (see p.108) sowing of early, midseason, and late cultivars at 65–70ºF (18–21ºC). Optimum growing in mid-spring, providing up to three weeks of harvest. Alternatively, make three spring sowings of the same cultivar at two-week intervals. In cold areas, only early cultivars and sowings are likely to succeed.
112 VEGETABLES temperatures for seedlings are 60°F (16°C) at usually grown under cover in temperate Okra night, 64°F (18ºC) by day. Prick out then plant regions. Yellow-, black, white-, red-, or out into borders, pots, or growing bags after purple-fruited cultivars are available, but Abelmoschus esculentus hardening off (see pp.108–109). for the kitchen it is best to grow F1 hybrid black-fruited cultivars. Eggplants yield SOWING DEPTH sow thinly, with light covering 61⁄2–10lb (3–4.5kg) per 10ft (3m) row in SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER PLANT SPACING 15–18in (38–45cm) cloches or frames; for outdoor crops, the SOW •• ROW SPACING 24–36in (60–75cm) yield will be lower. They may be grown TRANSPLANT in containers on a sunny patio. HARVEST •• ■ Routine care Provide support for the plants ■ Site and soil Outdoors, only the sunniest, ••• as they develop (see p.109) or their stems can most sheltered sites are suitable. Elsewhere, break under the weight of the crop. If growth cloches or cold frames are essential for Okra is a half-hardy annual related to cotton. is weak, remove the first f lowers and feed with providing the extra warmth and especially Its immature parts have a unique glutinous balanced liquid fertilizer weekly (see p.110). the humidity eggplants need. Soil should texture, essential for some cuisines, and are Pinching out the growing tip is not needed on be fertile, well-drained, and moisture-retentive, used as a green vegetable. The dried pods can peppers, and delays cropping. (See Mulching, as well as warming quickly in spring (see p.108). also be used as f lavoring. Okra yields 31⁄4lb p.109, and Routine Care, p.110.) ■ Sowing and planting Sow seed indoors (1.5kg) per 10ft (3m) row in cloches or frames; ■ Harvesting and storing Pick the first fruits at 70–86ºF (21–30ºC). The optimum growing for outdoor crops, the yield will be lower. when they are green and the skin is smooth and temperatures after germination are 60°F ■ Site and soil A fertile, well-drained soil, glossy, to encourage further cropping. Later fruits (16°C) at night, 64°F (18°C) by day. Prick under cold frames or cloches, in a sunny, can be picked green or allowed to ripen to yellow, out into pots (see p.108) when they are sheltered site, is essential to provide the extra orange, or red. Red peppers have a sweeter, richer about 2in (5cm) tall. Biodegradable pots warmth and especially humidity needed. Even flavor. Allowing fruits to ripen, however, reduces are best. Plant out (see p.109) when the first so, success is not guaranteed. cropping by about a quarter. Chile peppers may be f lowers appear. ■ Sowing and planting The seeds are very gathered green or allowed to ripen, and dried or hard, and a preliminary soaking in warm water pickled for winter storage. Some ripen yellow SOWING DEPTH sow thinly, with light covering for two hours will speed germination. Sow or white. Black, purple, and violet chiles ripen to PLANT SPACING 24–30in (60–75cm) indoors (see p.108) at a minimum temperature of red or purplish-black, depending on cultivar. Both ROW SPACING 30–36in (75–90cm) 60ºF (16ºC). The optimum growing temperatures stay in good condition on the plant until frosted. for seedlings are 68–86ºF (20–30ºC). Prick out ■ Common problems Aphids (see p.251), red ■ Routine care Pinch out the growing tip seedlings when they are large enough to handle spider mite (see p.261), and whitef ly (see p.264) when the plants are about 8in (20cm) tall, and (see p.108), and plant them out (see p.109) when are common in cloches and cold frames, but again later if necessary, to encourage bushy they reach 3–4in (8–10cm) tall. biological controls (see p.52) are very effective. plants, which are easier to support (see p.109). Botrytis (see p.252) rots fruits in cool or wet Small, but numerous fruits result, unless fruits SOWING DEPTH sow thinly, with light covering weather; speedy removal of diseased material are thinned to one per stem. Water regularly PLANT SPACING 16–24in (40–60cm) reduces damage. To prevent soil-borne diseases, to keep the soil moist. To increase humidity ROW SPACING 24–30in (60–75cm) especially verticillium wilt (see p.263), grow and warmth, grow the plants beneath a tent of on a fresh site or in growing bags every year. f leece within the greenhouse. When the fruits ■ Routine care Pinch out strong growing ■ Recommended cultivars begin to set, feed with a high-potash fertilizer tips to encourage bushiness. Provide support. Sweet pepper or organic tomato feed every 10–12 days. (See (See Mulching, p.109, and Routine Care, p.110.) ‘Ariane’—orange fruits, fast-growing, heavy also Mulching, p.109). ■ Harvesting As soon as pods have formed, crop, attractive in salads. ■ Harvesting Gather fruits when they cut them off with a sharp knife. They quickly ‘Bellboy’—hybrid, traditional, red ripe fruits. develop their full color, but before they become become stringy, so regular cutting is essential. ‘Gypsy’—old favorite, pale green, long, pointed overripe and pithy. Cut the stem 1in (2.5cm) ■ Common problems Aphids (see p.251), red fruits ripen bright red, heavy crop. above the calyx—the joint of the stem and spider mite (see p.261), and whitef ly (see p.264) ‘Mavras’—black fruits. the fruit. are common in cloches and cold frames, but ‘Redskin’—compact hybrid, green fruits ripen to ■ Common problems Aphids (see p.251), biological controls (see p.52) are very effective. red, heavy cropper, good for patios or cloches. red spider mite (see p.261), and whitef ly Botrytis (see p.252) rots fruits in cool or wet Chile pepper (p.264) are common in cloches and cold weather; speedy removal of diseased material ‘Anaheim’—popular in Mexican cuisine, used in frames, but biological controls (see p.52) are reduces damage. To avoid soil-borne diseases, sauces, soups, and casseroles. very effective against these pests. Botrytis (see especially verticillium wilt (see p.263), grow ‘Habanero’—very hot, small orange fruits. p.252) may rot fruits in cool or wet weather; on a fresh site or in growing bags every year. ‘Hungarian Wax’—long-pointed, light green, speedy removal of diseased material reduces ■ Recommended cultivars mild and sweet, getting hotter as it matures. the risk. Soil-borne diseases, especially ‘Clemson’s Spineless’—old favorite. ‘Jalapeno’—hot, tapering green fruits ripen red. verticillium wilt (see p.263), are avoided by ‘Pure Luck’—vigorous, high yields. ‘Tabasco’—green fruits maturing to red, very hot. growing on a fresh site or in growing bags every year. Tomatillo ■ Recommended cultivars Eggplant ‘Black Beauty’—open-pollinated variety, Physalis ixocarpa thriving in almost every part of the country. ‘Bonica’—large dark fruits, tall, vigorous. SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ‘Giotto’—large dark fruits, resistant to SOW •• Solanum melongena verticillium wilt. TRANSPLANT ‘Moneymaker’—outdoors in warm areas, HARVEST •• SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER or in cold frame or cloche, tasty purple ••• SOW •• fruits. TRANSPLANT ‘Snowy’—small white fruits, good for The tomatillo, or Mexican husk tomato, is a frost- HARVEST •• patio planting. tender, sprawling plant, growing to about 3ft •••• (1m). Its green fruits ripen to yellow, purple, or red, or may stay green. They are used in Mexican Eggplants are very attractive, slightly spiny cuisine and for preserves. The berry is enclosed in plants of tropical origin, and are therefore
A–Z OF FRUITING VEGETABLES 113 a tight-fitting, papery calyx, through which the to grow, but other stems arise, also bearing sideshoots (see p.109). No more than 4–5 trusses ripening berry sometimes bursts. Tomatillos yield f lowers, so that a short, bushy plant covered can be relied upon to ripen outdoors before fall 21⁄4–41⁄2lb (1–2kg) per plant. Named cultivars are in f lowers results. Bush cultivars crop very frosts, so when enough trusses have set fruit, seldom offered. early and abundantly, and they are worth trying pinch out the terminal shoot, leaving two leaves ■ Site and soil As for peppers (see p.111). on greenhouse staging for the earliest crops. above the final truss. ■ Sowing and planting Sow seed in the They can be time-consuming to harvest, their greenhouse (see p.108) at a minimum of 60ºF fruits tend to be less tasty, and the range of Water all types well in dry spells, especially (16ºC). Optimum growing temperatures for colors, shapes, and sizes is less than vine types. container plants. Overfeeding or overwatering seedlings are 60°F (16°C) at night, 64°F (18ºC) reduce f lavor and may lead to disease. If the by day. Plant out in late spring and early summer There are also intermediate types, which leaves become pale and are shed, weekly feeding into beds, pots, or growing bags after hardening have a habit between the fully bushy and the with potassium-rich fertilizer, such as tomato off (see p.109). vine types. They usually require supporting, feed, until foliage color improves, boosts but removal of sideshoots is not carried out, plant health and cropping. Mulch with organic SOWING DEPTH sow thinly, with light covering the whole plant being loosely tied to the matter or grow plants through black plastic PLANT SPACING 18in (45cm) support. Many of the unusual Mediterranean (see p.109). Removing leaves below the lowest ROW SPACING 36in (90cm) and other less commonly grown cultivars ripening truss helps air circulation and reduces have a semi-indeterminate habit, with some disease; keep leaves higher up or fruits will not ■ Routine care Tomatillos seldom require stems ending in f lowers and others trailing ripen or be poorly f lavored. feeding or watering. Use three canes and loops without end. These unruly plants need careful ■ Harvesting Ideally, allow fruits to ripen of twine to support them (see p.109). In frames judgment in curbing the straggling shoots on the vine, and pick them when they have and cloches, pinch out the growing tips to make and preserving the f lowering ones. developed their full color and f lavor. At the the plants more compact. end of the season either pick remaining green ■ Harvesting Many fruits fall before ripe and Yields are very variable, with the most fruits and leave them in a warm place to ripen can be left to ripen on the ground. Full color f lavorsome cultivars and cherry tomatoes or pull up the entire vine and hang it upside indicates ripeness, and green cultivars are ripe often cropping lightly, while heavy croppers down indoors. Cover bush types with cloches when the fruit breaks through the husk. are often dull in f lavor. Vine tomatoes yield to finish ripening. Where vine types can be ■ Common problems There are no significant 4–9lb (1.8–4kg) per plant outdoors or 6–11lb bent to ground level, similarly cover the vines. problems with this crop. (2.7–5kg) in an unheated greenhouse. Bush ■ Common problems Outdoor tomatoes and semi-indeterminate tomatoes should yield share several diseases and soil pests with potatoes: Tomato 9lb (4kg) per plant outdoors. blight (see p.260) can be serious and potato cyst ■ Site and soil Any fertile, nutrient-rich, nematode (see p.260) and viruses (see p.263) also Lycopersicon esculentum well-drained soil is suitable, if plenty of organic occur. Damp may cause foot and root rots (see matter has been incorporated in the top 12in p.255). Greenhouse tomatoes suffer mainly from SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER (30cm). If necessary, before planting add an whitefly (see p.264) and occasionally from aphids SOW •• all-purpose fertilizer at a rate of 3oz per sq yd (see p.251), caterpillars (see p.253), and red spider TRANSPLANT (105g per sq m) or pelleted poultry manure at mite (see p.261). In stagnant or damp conditions, HARVEST •• 4oz per sq yd (150g per sq m). botrytis will cause tomato ghost spot (see p.263) •••• ■ Sowing and planting Sow indoors no more on fruits; high temperatures will exacerbate tomato than eight weeks before the last frost is expected. blotchy ripening (see p.263). Magnesium deficiency Tomatoes are short-lived, tender perennials Plants sown earlier will be too large to plant out is occasionally a problem (see p.257). To avoid soil- grown as annuals. Seed suppliers cater for the before the risk of frost has passed, and will need borne diseases, use containers or growing bags. great popularity of tomatoes by supplying many cloche or cold frame protection. Sow thinly in ■ Recommended cultivars different types. Cultivars have been developed pots of multipurpose compost, adding enough Bush tomato with fruits ranging from currant size, through vermiculite or sifted compost to cover the seeds ‘Garden Pearl’—tumbling, small fruits, good cherry and plum tomatoes, to the grapefruit- (see p.108). Alternatively, sow two seeds per pot, for pots and hanging baskets. sized beefsteak types. Shapes are spherical, later selecting the strongest seedling. Warm ‘Red Alert’—early, heavy cropping, sweet fruits. oblong, elongated, or f lattened globes, and colors conditions (59–86ºF/15–30ºC) are needed for Cherry tomato include red, green, yellow, and purple. Another germination, best provided by a heated ‘Gold nugget’—plants are loaded with round, result of this popularity is that a fair range of propagator (see p.63). When seedlings emerge, golden fruit from early in the season until frost. different types may be bought as ready-grown transfer pots to better-lit conditions, such as a ‘Sungold’—heavy cropping, sweet, golden- plants in garden centers. There are two main greenhouse or windowsill. orange fruit. types of tomato plant: vine (or indeterminate) ‘Sweet Million’—heavy-cropping, sweet, tomatoes and bush (or determinate) tomatoes. After germination, seedlings should be grown very small fruits with thin skins, f lavorsome. at 70–81ºF (21–27ºC). When the seedlings can be Plum tomato Vine tomatoes are usually grown with the handled, prick into individual 2–3in (5–8cm) pots, ‘Olivade’—heavy-cropping, brilliant texture, central stem trained up a tall support (see p.110), large modules or, better, biodegradable pots; feed good f lavor especially when cooked. with its sideshoots removed; these cordons will with balanced liquid fertilizer after 2–3 weeks or Vine tomato grow to several metres in frost-free conditions. if growth appears discolored. Plant out after roots ‘Black Russian’—beefsteak, purple-black The f lowers and consequent fruits are borne have filled the pot and the first flower buds appear. fruits, semi-determinate, juicy, fine-f lavor. on trusses that grow from the main stem. Vine ‘Golden Sunrise’—yellow fruits, extremely sweet, tomatoes are easier to keep within bounds if SOWING DEPTH 3/4in (2cm) very heavy-cropping, old favorite. grown in greenhouses, containers, or growing FINAL PLANT SPACING vine: 15–18in (38–45cm) ‘Green zebra’—lime-emerald f lesh has an bags, although if in the latter they will need bush: 12–36in (30–90cm), invigorating lemon-lime f lavor. more attention (see p.110). Avoid greenhouse ROW SPACING depending on vigor ‘Juliet’—deep red, shiny fruits. cultivars outdoors, since the fruits often need vine: 36in (90cm) single or ‘Moneymaker’—deep red fruits, extra-vigorous. the protection and warmth under cover to ripen. staggered double rows ‘Tigerella’—striped fruits, very good f lavor. bush: 36in (90cm) ‘Yellow Perfection’—yellow fruits, very Bush tomatoes are much more compact plants sweet, heavy-cropping, old favorite. with plenty of side branches, and are better for ■ Routine care Cover bush tomatoes with growing outdoors. Flowers appear on the end f leece or cloches, and support if needed (see of each stem. After f lowering, the stem ceases p.109). Support vine tomatoes, removing
114 VEGETABLES Growing cucurbits Included in the cucurbit, or gourd, Planting out seedlings in biodegradable pots family (Cucurbitacae) are cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, squashes, and 1When seedlings sown zucchini. These are all half-hardy in biodegradable pots annuals that make good ornamental reach the top of the pot, plants where trained because the leaves fill in with more compost and f lowers are attractive as well as to earth up the stem and the fruits. The fruits are either eaten encourage strong roots. raw or cooked, or used in preserves. The young leaves and shoots are 2 About 2 weeks after sometimes consumed as greens and sowing, when the the seeds as snacks, and even the seedling has 3 or 4 true f lowers are occasionally eaten (see leaves and the roots are individual crops, pp.117–119, for details of which parts of any crop are edible). 1 2 starting to show through The closely related ornamental gourds may be harmful if eaten. If allowed the walls of the pot, it is to sprawl, squashes can take up quite ready for planting out. a lot of space; training them vertically overcomes this problem. 3Plant the seedling in its pot after digging out SOWING CUCURBIT CROPS holes at spacings appropriate The large, flat seeds of cucurbits usually for the crop; water the holes produce fast-growing seedlings, but and pots thoroughly. Plant germination requires soil temperatures so the leaves sit just above of 55–86°F (13–30°C) and some of the the soil surface. Mound a crops are slow to mature. Seedlings need little soil around the seedling similar soil and air temperatures. Frost stem to prevent water from is fatal to leaves and stems, although ripe collecting around it and fruits may survive low temperatures. In cooler areas, therefore, it is best 3 encouraging rot. Water in to sow all cucurbits under cover; in warmer areas, with long, hot summers, to settle the soil, and label. sowing fast-growing crops such as zucchini and ridge cucumbers directly Outdoor sowings of fast-growing SITE AND SOIL outdoors usually produces stronger cucurbits can be made in late spring plants, since cucurbits resent root or in early summer in favorable All cucurbits prefer a warm, sheltered disturbance, but slow-maturing crops areas, or earlier if the soil is pre- site. Cucurbits were traditionally grown such as melons and squashes should warmed with clear plastic or cloches on ridges or mounds, often heavily still be sown under cover. (see p.46) for six weeks before sowing. enriched with organic matter. This Sow one to three seeds per station, on helps particularly where soil is poor, Sow in mid- to late spring in large their sides; later, thin to the strongest shallow, and prone to waterlogging. modules or 3in (8cm) pots, preferably seedling, if applicable. Protect newly Mounds and ridges require great labor biodegradable ones (see above) so that sown areas with f leece (see p.48) for to make and fill with organic matter, there is no disturbance to the roots when four weeks after sowing. however, and are difficult to water planting out the seedlings later. Half-fill adequately. Flat-topped beds, about the pot or module with compost, and SUCCESSIONAL SOWING 3ft (1m) wide and raised by 6in (15cm), sow one or two seeds on their sides, Because most cucurbit crops produce are just as successful, without the rather than upright; this reduces soil a succession of fruits, successional drawbacks. Another traditional practice resistance, since the emerging seed leaves sowing (see p.69) is seldom required. was to prepare 12in (30cm) planting are raised clear of the soil, still encased The exceptions to this rule are zucchini holes, refilled with soil enriched with in the seed coat. If necessary, thin out and cucumbers, where an early spring organic matter. Equally good crops the weaker seedling after germination. sowing may need to be supplemented can be more conveniently grown on When the remaining seedling reaches by an early summer sowing in order well-manured flat soil, especially if the top of the pot, fill in around it with to produce later supplies. it is mulched after planting (see p.72). more compost (see above) to produce a strong root system. HARDENING OFF Planting cucurbits on old compost Before planting out seedlings raised heaps to utilize the residual fertility under cover, harden them off (see p.65) can be successful provided that the for two weeks in a cold frame, with abundance of nutrients does not lead gradually increasing ventilation, or to leafy, nonf lowering growth. The under a double layer of f leece (see p.48). less vigorous cucurbits, such as cucumbers and zucchini, also grow well in pots of at least 10in (25cm)
GROWING CUCURBITS 115 in diameter, and in growing bags. Planting out seedlings Success, however, is dependent on As an alternative to growing plentiful and frequent watering and seedlings in biodegradable pots feeding (see Routine Care, below). (see facing page), sow seed in 3in (8cm) pots or modules and PLANTING OUT SUPPORTING CUCURBIT CROPS plant out with care when the The shoots of trailing or climbing seedlings have 3 or 4 true leaves. As soon as the seedlings have three cucurbits can be tied into twine, wires, In a bed prepared with organic or four true leaves, usually about two trellis, or bamboo wigwams (see below) matter, plant at appropriate weeks after sowing, they are ready for to save space and protect fruits from intervals—here ‘Turks’ Turban’ planting out (see facing page, and right). wet soil, slugs, disease, and damage. squash seedlings are spaced Plant to the depth of the seed leaves; However, they can ramble freely and 3ft (1m) apart. Use a hand trowel this buries some stem and allows more crops are often heavier if this is allowed. or a bulb planter to make the roots to form, which improves early holes. Firm, water in, and label. growth. When conditions are dull ROUTINE CARE and wet, however, shallower planting Protect all early sowings and plantings, shading paint or netting in midsummer reduces the risk of disease. If in doubt, especially in cooler areas, with cold to protect plants from scorching. make a slight mound around the stem frames, cloches, or fleece (see pp.45–48). to prevent accumulation of water at Melons and cucumbers will require Feeding will increase yields, although the collar of the plant, which might protection throughout the year. In too much nitrogen should be avoided cause rotting. The brittle roots and hot periods, ventilate cold frames and because it can lead to excessive leaf fragile area where the stem joins the cloches sufficiently to prevent excessive production at the expense of fruiting. roots means that each seedling requires temperatures. In greenhouses, use Cucurbits need only small amounts of very gentle handling, especially if it fertilizer; a suitable dressing is 2–3oz per is being planted out as a bare-root sq yd (75–100g per sq m) of a general seedling (see p.70). compound fertilizer, or 3–4oz per sq yd (100–140g per sq m) of an organic feed Cucurbit seedlings benefit from extra such as dried poultry manure with a warmth and protection after planting 5 percent nitrogen content (see pp.20–23). out, provided by either a cloche or fleece Halve these amounts for plants growing (see pp.45–48), especially if conditions are in fertile, recently manured soil. Regular still chilly. On frosty nights, protect with feeding is vital for container crops. burlap sacking or similar cloth. Mulching (see p.72) helps to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and keep Supporting cucurbit crops Some cucurbits have a climbing or trailing wigwam or row arrangement. A trellis habit, and therefore need some form of would suit a sheltered spot and allow support to prevent the fruits from resting on fruits to hang down. Greenhouse cordon the ground, where they will be susceptible crops can be twined around single strings to rotting, as well as the attentions of slugs hanging vertically from the roof. Individual and snails. Outdoor crops may be supported fruits may also be supported with netting with bamboo stakes and twine, either in a attached to the overall support network. Outdoor squashes on a fan trellis Tying in outdoor cucumbers into stake wigwam Greenhouse cucumber growing up vertical twine Individual greenhouse melon supported by a net
116 VEGETABLES the fruits clean. Additionally, black Hand-pollinating cucurbit flowers plastic sheet mulches (see p.42) will help to warm the soil. Organic mulches 1Help cucurbit plants to set fruit by feed the crops, but very rich ones, pollinating them by hand, rather than such as mushroom compost, can lead waiting for insects to do it. Pick a fully to more leafy growth than fruit. open male flower—one with no embryonic fruit at the base (see below)—and carefully Frequent, plentiful watering is pinch off all the petals to expose the essential, especially for crops grown stamens, which bear the powdery under cover or in containers. Water yellow pollen. after planting and sowing, during flowering and fruit swelling, and in No fruit dry spells. A low-level or drip-irrigation below system (see p.54) can be indispensable. flower To grow very large fruits such as giant pumpkins as much as 2½ gallons Male flower Embryonic fruit 2Insert the male flower carefully into (11 liters) per week for each plant may forming at a female flower—one that has an be required, to which liquid fertilizer embryonic fruit (see left)—so that the (see pp.20–23) should be added. base of flower pollen is transferred from the male stamens onto the stigma of the female flower. WEED CONTROL Female flower The spreading shoots and large leaves of mature cucurbits will suppress weeds yellow, powdery pollen. spacing and early planting out will create by themselves. In the early stages, Each fertile male flower has enough a predominance of male flowers. however, use organic or black plastic pollen for several females. Repeated mulches (see pp.41–42). Alternatively, pollination on consecutive sunny days Cold temperatures cause incomplete prepare the site in early spring and allow is sometimes required for a good “set.” pollination, where fruits swell only at the the weeds to germinate; before planting, Male flowers can predominate during flower end, and shrivel at the other end. remove them by shallow hoeing or with short days early in the season, but the Cool weather can also lead to complete a contact herbicide. This is known as female flowers will prevail later on. failure to set fruit, because pollination the stale seedbed technique. If left Wider spacing between the plants, fails through lack of insects and impaired undisturbed, the soil will remain largely less shade, later planting, and potassium- pollen germination and development. weed-free until the foliage spreads rich liquid fertilizers (see p.20) can If pollination occurs but fruitlets fail to sufficiently to smother the weeds. increase female flower numbers. Closer develop, the cause is often that there are more fruits than the plant can support. POLLINATION This will be resolved as the plant grows. Pollination is an essential requirement for most cucurbits to set fruits, and Fruitlets may be thinned to just one separate male and female flowers are per stem, or even one per plant, where borne on the same plant. The only large fruits are wanted. This is especially exception to this are greenhouse necessary for melons. There is no need cucumbers (see p.117). Cucurbits are to thin cucumbers or zucchini. pollinated by insects, so fleece, frame, or cloche coverings should be opened Protecting ripening fruits HARVESTING AND STORING at flowering time to allow insects access. If plants are grown unsupported outdoors, place a piece of wood or a brick underneath Frequent harvesting of immature When there are too few pollinators, the ripening fruits (here, a winter squash) zucchini, cucumbers, and melons or they are insufficiently active, hand- to raise them off the soil. This will minimize is essential to prevent poor-quality, pollination (see above) can be carried any possibility of soiling or rotting. overly mature fruits from forming. out by picking a male flower and Cut the stalks cleanly with a sharp pressing it lightly onto a female one knife or pruners. Fruits of pumpkins so that the stigma, in the center of the and squashes are ready to harvest when female flower, receives pollen from they develop full color and a hard skin, the stamens of the male. Small flowers, and ring hollow when tapped. The stem such as those of cucumbers and melons, will also start to crack. Fruits for storage which are easily damaged, are best should be left to mature on the plants shaken over the females. Male cucurbit as long as possible. After cutting, cure flowers are fertile only for a short time; them in a greenhouse or warm room check that they are ready by brushing at 81–90°F (27–32°C) for several days. a finger over the male flower to detect Store at about 50°F (10°C), with fairly high humidity to prevent shriveling.
A–Z OF CUCURBITS 117 A–Z OF CUCURBITS Cucumber outdoors; delay this by two weeks in cooler and gherkin areas or for gherkins. Greenhouse cucumbers can be grown in growing bags. Cucumis sativus Sowing direct (see p.114) is possible in early SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER summer, especially if soil is pre-warmed with SOW •••• •• cloches or f leece, or in midsummer for gherkins. TRANSPLANT Sow three seeds per station, each seed 6in (15cm) HARVEST ••• apart. Where space is tight, seeds can be sown •• in a drill (see p.67), with the plants later trained up a mesh or trellis fence to make an attractive cucumber hedge. Home-grown cucumbers are worth the SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) effort, since they are far tastier than those PLANT SPACING 18in (45cm) for drills from supermarkets. There are two basic types: 6in (15cm) at stations greenhouse and outdoor cucumbers. Greenhouse ROW SPACING 24–30in (60–75cm) types are more difficult to grow, but have long, smooth fruits. Some resilient greenhouse ■ Routine care For supports, use wigwams, cultivars also grow well in cold frames. Outdoor trellis, twine, or wires (see p.115). Pinch out types include ridge cucumbers and gherkins, growing tips of climbers only when they reach which are short, rough-skinned, and hardier the top of the support; plants allowed to trail than greenhouse cucumbers, but equal in f lavor. on the ground crop better and use space more Japanese outdoor cucumbers are robust and efficiently if growing tips are regularly removed approach greenhouse types in size and quality. to encourage bushy growth. In cold frames and cloches, train sideshoots to the corners and Cucumbers are climbing plants suitable pinch out the tips again. Water plentifully (see for growing on wigwams, trellis, or wires p.116); never allow cucumbers to dry out. If (see p.115), or for trailing along the ground; growth slows and leaves become pale, use a better-quality fruits will be obtained by using balanced liquid fertilizer (see p.21) as directed supports, however, and the plants occupy less by the manufacturer until leaves green up again. space. No cucumbers can tolerate frost. They Alternatively, use an organic mulch (see p.41) normally yield about 15 fruits per plant. to add nutrient, keep fruits clean, reduce water loss, and suppress weeds. Modern greenhouse cucumbers are all- ■ Harvesting Cucumbers and gherkins are female and do not require pollination to set best harvested before any yellowing begins, and fruit. For these plants, pollination can cause after the sides become parallel. Avoid picking unshapely and bitter-tasting fruits, and should excessively young fruits, however, as they often be avoided by growing them well apart from taste bitter. Greenhouse cucumbers are usually other cucurbits. Grown in cool conditions, ready from midsummer; gherkins a month later. however, male f lowers (see p.116) occasionally Outdoor cutting can be done in late summer arise, and these should be removed. to mid-fall, or the first frosts; and for gherkins, All outdoor cucumbers and gherkins, except in late fall. all-female cultivars, need pollination by insects ■ Common problems Powdery mildew (see or by hand (see p.116), or no crop will result. p.260) often occurs in late summer; good ■ Site and soil For germination, cucumber cultivation, especially watering and feeding, seeds need a minimum temperature of 68°F helps prevent this. Cucumber mosaic virus (see (20°C); the optimum growing temperature p.254) is common and can cause poorly formed is 82°F (28°C); in greenhouses, provide a fruits; disease-resistant cultivars are sometimes minimum of 68°F (20°C) at night. Sheltered, available—remove all diseased plants. Slugs and warm, sunny conditions are therefore essential snails (see p.262) can destroy young plants. Red for outdoor cucumbers and gherkins, but black spider mite (see p.261) and whitef ly (see p.264) plastic mulches and f leece (see p.42) can help are very damaging in cold frames; biological warm the soil. Plants benefit from the controls are very effective in these situations. incorporation of organic matter during soil Foot and root rots (see p.255) affect stem bases preparation, and mulching (see p.72) during and are associated with overwatered plants and the growing period. On heavy soils, it is badly drained soil. Bean f ly (see p.252) can better to grow cucumbers and gherkins on sometimes damage outdoor sowings in early a f lat-topped raised bed (see p.114) than a ridge. summer. Fleece will exclude them. If male Cucumbers and gherkins will crop better when f lowers are allowed to pollinate the plant, the protected with cloches, cold frames, or even fruits will be bitter and inedible (see p.252). f leece (see p.48), in cold districts. ■ Recommended cultivars ■ Sowing and planting Sow in a greenhouse Greenhouse cucumber (see p.114) in early to mid-spring, and from ‘Eureka hybrid’—most disease-resistant mid-spring outdoors. After hardening off cucumber ever grown, uniquely versatile. (see p.114), plant out seedlings in late spring in cloches and cold frames, and in early summer
118 VEGETABLES ‘Femspot’—hybrid, dark fruits, easy to grow. Alternatively, grow them up a support (see p.115), is required for seed to germinate, and the plants ‘Improved Telegraph’—good frame type, not making sure it is sufficiently sturdy to support grow best at around 77°F (25°C). In cool, all-female, reliable, high yields, good f lavor. large, heavy fruits. Support individual fruits with temperate areas, this means growing them in ‘Lemon’—lemon-yellow, tender and sweet. netting if necessary (see p.115). If very large fruits a greenhouse or a cold frame, or protecting ‘Rocky’—f lesh with good f lavor. Very early are desired, thin when they are still small fruitlets them with f leece or cloches (see pp.43–48). maturity with high yields. to only 2–3 per plant. ■ Sowing and planting In cool areas, sow Outdoor cucumber and gherkin ■ Harvesting and storing Gather fruits when in the greenhouse (see p.114) in mid-spring, and ‘Burpless Tasty Green’—trailing, tender fruits. they are fully colored and have a hollow ring plant out in early summer. When planting, the ‘Bush Champion’—ridge-type cucumber, when tapped. Allow the skins to harden in the rootball should only just be covered in soil, since good in containers, resistant to cucumber sun. For storing, use larger, more mature fruits. deep planting encourages rotting. In warmer mosaic virus. If carefully cured and stored (see p.116), they areas, station sow direct outdoors under cover ‘Crystal Lemon’—lemon-shaped, yellowish, will keep for several months, sometimes even in late spring (see p.114). tasty fruits. into early spring. ‘Kyoto’—Japanese type, slender fruits. ■ Common problems Powdery mildew SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) ‘Marketmore’—ridge type, disease-resistant. (see p.260) is the only real threat. The crops PLANT SPACING 2–3ft (60–100cm) ‘Tokyo Slicer’—Japanese type, slender fruits. might be affected by foot and root rots (see ROW SPACING 3ft (1m) ‘Venio Pickling’—traditional pickling gherkin. p.255), cucumber mosaic virus (see p.254), and slugs and snails may attack seedlings (see p.262). ■ Routine care Constant moisture is required, Pumpkin and ■ Recommended cultivars especially during the f lowering period (see winter squash Pumpkin p.116). If growth f lags, apply a liquid fertilizer ‘Atlantic Giant’—trailing, exhibition type, huge weekly (see p.21). If growing in a greenhouse, Cucurbita maxima, C. moschata, record-breaking fruits. train the stems up supports (see p.115). In a and C. pepo ‘Howden Biggie’—upright, variable ridging, cold frame, train the shoots into the corners true pumpkin shapes ranging from globe to as they grow. After planting, “stop” the main SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER tall globe. stem by pinching out the leading shoot after SOW ••• ‘Jack o’ Lantern’—classic Halloween type. two leaves have developed, resulting in two TRANSPLANT •• ‘Rouge Vif D’Etamp’—trailing, f lat shape, rich further shoots. Stop these after seven leaves HARVEST •• orange fruits, stores well. have been produced, and stop the shoots ‘Triple Treat’—trailing, bright orange fruits, resulting from this when they have five Pumpkins and winter squashes are a valuable, Halloween type, edible seeds. leaves. Subsequent shoots bear the crop. highly ornamental winter vegetable. Most Winter squash trail to form very large, rambling plants, but ‘Crown Prince’—trailing, steely blue color, The first fruits to set inhibit further fruit some bushy types also exist. Although mainly nutty f lavor. formation. To avoid this, keep cloches, cold grown for storage, the immature fruits may ‘Golden Hubbard’—produces sweet large fruits frames, or f leece in place and closed until be eaten in the same way as zucchini (see p.117). packed with dry, fine-grained f lesh. the plant is in full f lower, then open up the The seeds of some cultivars may be roasted ‘Queensland Blue’—trailing, blue-green fruits, protective covering to allow insects to gain to eat; the f lowers, tendrils, and shoot tips good f lavor. access and to pollinate all the f lowers are edible as for zucchini (see p.117). Normal ‘Sweet Dumpling’—small, densely f leshed simultaneously. Thin the fruits to two or four yields are one large fruit or 4–6 small fruits fruits, sweet, nutty. per plant when they are about 1in (2.5cm) per plant. in diameter. Stop any fruit-bearing shoots at ■ Site and soil An open, sunny site and Sweet melon 2–3 leaves beyond the fruit to concentrate the fertile, well-drained soil are essential (see plant’s energy into the fruits. Support individual p.114). Seeds require a minimum of 56°F Cucumis melo greenhouse fruits with netting (see p.115). (13°C) to germinate, and the plants grow best ■ Harvesting and storing When the stalk at 65–70°F (18–21°C). Pumpkins and winter SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER begins to crack and the fruit develops a squashes can be unreliable in cooler areas. SOW ••• sweet scent, cut the stem with a sharp knife ■ Sowing and planting A long growing season TRANSPLANT • or secateurs. Sweet melons may be stored is required and seed is best sown indoors (see HARVEST •••• successfully for several weeks in a refrigerator. p.114) in mid- to late spring for planting out Covering fruits with cloches or f leece as cool in late spring and early summer (see p.115). Sweet melons are trailing, tender annuals from fall nights approach will help speed the process Alternatively, station sow outdoors in early tropical regions that need plenty of warmth; of ripening. summer (see p.114), ideally in soil prewarmed in temperate areas, they can only be grown ■ Common problems Powdery mildew with f leece or cloches (see pp.46–48). successfully if protection is provided. There (see p.260), cucumber mosaic virus (see p.254), are three main types of sweet melon: cantaloupe, foot and root rots (see p.255), slugs and snails SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) winter or casaba, and musk. Cantaloupe types (see p.262), red spider mite (see p.261), whitef ly PLANT SPACING 3ft (90cm) bush cultivars have thick, rough, grooved skins, grayish green (see p.264), aphids (see p.251), and bean f ly (see 5ft (1.5m) trailing cultivars in color. Winter melons have yellow, or yellow- p.252) may all be troublesome. ROW SPACING 3ft (90cm) bush cultivars and-green-striped, smooth skins, and include ■ Recommended cultivars 5ft (1.5m) trailing cultivars honeydew melons. Musk types are usually smaller ‘Blenheim Orange’—old favorite, netted than the other two types, and have smooth skins, fruits, yellow f lesh. ■ Routine care Trailing types need less water often covered with a network of fine lines. Sweet ‘Castella’—striped fruits, grown outdoors and feeding than other cucurbits as they spread melons yield 2–4 fruits per plant. under cloches or f leece, sweet amber f lesh. widely, rooting deeply as they go. Bushy plants ■ Site and soil For uninterrupted growth and ‘Edonis’—Charentais cantaloupe, early, netted need normal amounts (see p.115), and a mulch good f lavor, sweet melons need an especially pale green skin, delicious orange f lesh. (see p.116) also helps retain moisture. To save sunny, warm, and sheltered site, and a rich soil ‘Galia’—sweet, vigorous, resists mildew. space, you can use short canes to train shoots with plenty of organic matter added to it (see ‘Ogen’—cantaloupe, reliable, dark green striped of trailing types into circles on the ground. p.114). A minimum temperature of 60°F (16°C) skin, f lavorsome green f lesh. ‘Sivan’—rich orange f lesh with a hint of charentias-like butterscotch f lavor.
A–Z OF CUCURBITS 119 Vegetable marrow Watermelon are relatively robust and fast-growing, and grow easily outdoors. Some have a trailing habit. Cucurbita pepo Citrullus lanatus Summer squashes are treated in the same way as zucchini. The f lowers, especially male ones, are SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER considered a delicacy, stuffed or fried; the tendrils SOW ••• SOW • and shoot tips can also be steamed for eating. TRANSPLANT •• TRANSPLANT •• Zucchini and summer squashes yield 6–12 fruits HARVEST •••• HARVEST •• per plant. They are not suitable for storing. ■ Site and soil Zucchini prefer an open, sunny Vegetable marrows are easy-to-grow, bush Watermelons are spreading annual plants. Their position, and benefit from the addition of plenty of or trailing annuals; the fruits are traditional stems can grow up to 12ft (4m) in length. The organic matter during soil preparation (see p.114), summer and fall vegetables that can also be large fruits—up to 2ft (60cm) long—are oblong as well as dressing with a mulch (see p.116). Seeds stored for winter use. Marrows are usually or rounded, cream or green in color, striped or need a minimum of 56°F (13°C) to germinate. elongated and striped, but plain-colored and mottled, and are eaten raw. Watermelons need ■ Sowing and planting For early crops, sow rounded types are also available. Vegetable a long growing season and plenty of warmth in in a greenhouse in mid- to late spring (see p.114), marrows normally yield two large fruits, or order to thrive. In cool, temperate regions, a cold and plant out under cloches or frames in late six to eight small ones, per plant. frame can give adequate protection if sited in a spring or outdoors in early summer (see p.115). ■ Site and soil Vegetable marrows prefer very warm, sunny, sheltered position; otherwise, Later crops can be direct sown, three seeds per an open, sunny position and benefit from the grow them in a greenhouse. New developments station, outdoors in early summer (see p.114). addition of organic matter during soil preparation include small-fruited, quick-growing cultivars. Delay sowing, or planting out, for about two (see p.114). They also do well if grown through Watermelons yield one or two fruits per plant. weeks in cooler districts. a mulch (see p.116). Seeds need a minimum soil ■ Site and soil Watermelons require similar, temperature of 13°C (56°F) to germinate. conditions to sweet melons (see above), but SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) ■ Sowing and planting For early crops, sow optimum temperatures for growth are higher: PLANT SPACING 36in (90cm) in the greenhouse in mid- to late spring (see 77–85°F (25–30°C). ROW SPACING 36in (90cm) p.114), and plant out either under cloches or ■ Sowing and planting Sow indoors in mid- 4ft (1.2m) for trailing cultivars in frames in late spring or outdoors in early spring (see p.114), planting out in late spring to summer (see p.115). Later crops can be direct early summer (see p.115). ■ Routine care Water regularly to keep the soil sown, 2–3 seeds per station, outdoors in early moist, especially during flowering. Feeding (see summer (see p.114). Delay sowing, or planting SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) p.115) can help if growth appears too slow. Hand out, for about two weeks in cooler districts. PLANT SPACING 2–3ft (60–100cm) pollination (see p.116) is usually only required for ROW SPACING 3ft (1m) plants grown in cloches and frames. Trailing types may be trained over canes or wires (see p.115). For SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) ■ Routine care Watermelons are vigorous early crops, use cloches or frames (see p.115). PLANT SPACING 3ft (90cm) and require the same watering, feeding, and ■ Harvesting Gather the young fruits when ROW SPACING 3ft (90cm) bush types training as sweet melons (see above). they are about 4in (10cm) long, or when the 4ft (1.2m) trailing types ■ Harvesting Gather when the stem dries, remnants of the f lowers fall off (see p.116). If left and the fruit changes color, especially if there any longer, the swelling fruits will have less ■ Routine care Constant moisture is required is a slight yellowing of the pale area that is resting f lavor and poor texture, and they will also divert especially during the f lowering period (see on the ground (see p.116). Covering fruits with the plant’s energy away from the formation of p.116). Liquid fertilizer (see p.21) can be cloches or f leece as cool fall nights approach will new fruits. beneficial if growth slows down, and also help speed ripening. ■ Common problems Powdery mildew (see during swelling of fruits. If necessary, provide ■ Common problems Watermelons suffer p.260) occurs in late summer. Cucumber mosaic support (see p.115) for trailing types. (See the same problems as sweet melons (see above). virus (see p.254) is common, which results in also Routine Care, pp.115–116.) ■ Recommended cultivars poorly formed fruits, but disease-resistant ■ Harvesting and storing For small summer ‘Charleston Gray’—long-established, slow- cultivars are available. Slugs and snails (see p.262) marrows, regular harvesting, when they are growing, sprawling, oblong fruits. can be very destructive to young plants. Red at least 6in (15cm) long, encourages further ‘Sugar Baby’—small-fruited, compact, fast- spider mite (see p.261) and whitef ly (see p.264) are fruiting and increases the yield. For winter maturing, juicy fruits. especially damaging in cold frames. Foot and root storage, let the marrows develop to a full size rots (see p.255) affect the bases of the stems and and acquire a hard, resilient skin. For a perfect Zucchini and are associated with overwatered plants and badly finish, turn them occasionally as they ripen in summer squash drained soil. Bean f ly (see p.252) can occasionally the sun and rest fruits on a piece of wood or damage outdoor sowings in early summer. brick rather than allow them to lie on the soil Cucurbita pepo ■ Recommended cultivars (see p.116). Vegetable marrows should be stored Zucchini in a dry, cool, frost-free place (see p.116). SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ‘Bambino’—early, small, dark green fruits, ■ Common problems As they are so closely SOW ••• prolific over a long period. related, vegetable marrows suffer the same TRANSPLANT •• ‘Dark Green’—early vigorous bush zucchini with problems as zucchini (see p.117). HARVEST •••• straight, smooth, dark-green mottled fruits. ■ Recommended cultivars ‘Early Gem’—dark green fruits, prolific. ‘Badger Cross’—bush type, dark green fruits. Zucchini differ from vegetable marrows (see ‘Eight Ball’—round green fruits from compact ‘Bush Baby’—compact bushy plants, small fruits. p.119) only in that they produce fruits suitable plants. ‘Green Bush’—traditional, large marrows. for harvesting immediately after f lowering, ‘Jemmer’—compact, prolific, yellow fruits. ‘Long Green Trailing’—trailing type, long although if left they will eventually form Summer squash dark green fruits, traditional, high yields. marrows. Zucchini are seedless, since they are ‘Patty Pan’—scalloped, green and yellow fruits, ‘Tiger Cross’—resistant to cucumber mosaic eaten when young and fresh, and have a firmer ornamental, good f lavor. virus, bush type. texture and a better taste than marrows. They ‘Sunburst’—pretty, yellow, patty pan type, high ‘Vegetable Spaghetti’—trailing type, f lesh yields over a long period. forms strands when cooked.
120 VEGETABLES Growing stem vegetables This group includes celery root, celery, into it, in an open site. For celery and Blanching stems and Florence fennel, all of which have celery root, acid soils should be limed For all trench celery edible f leshy stems and decorative (see pp.18–19). Self-blanching celery plants, and outer foliage. They are biennials usually can be grown either under cover or plants in a block of grown as annuals, since most are unable outside, but is susceptible to frost, and self-blanching types, to withstand anything other than light should be harvested by mid-fall unless loosely wrap a length frosts. Celery and fennel are not the given some protection. Celery needs of paper-lined black easiest crops to grow, but celery root high levels of nitrogen, whereas celery plastic around the is much simpler. Celery root and celery root and fennel prefer low levels. stems when they are both make useful winter vegetables. 9–12in (23–30cm) BLANCHING STEMS tall. Leave 3–4in Celery types include modern self- Celery, in particular, needs to be (8–10cm) of overlap blanching kinds, traditional trench blanched; that is, the plants should to allow for plant celery, and leaf celery, which is grown be deprived of light so that the stems growth and secure for its tender young leaves instead of its remain white and more tender to with twine. stems. Self-blanching types are easier to eat. The traditional, laborious method grow, although the seed must be sown of planting in a trench (hence the growing, and also make sure that in heat in early spring and the plants name trench celery) and then earthing there is plenty of room for the stem will not be ready to plant out until up the stems is now seldom employed. to expand within required for show mid- to late spring; ready-grown plants Self-blanching celery plants should purposes, repeat the blanching process can be purchased by mail order if you be planted closely in blocks (see right) 2–3 weeks later. It may be necessary cannot raise them yourself from seed. so that their own foliage helps to to take off the collars from time to Celery cultivars with green, red, or restrict the availability of light to the time to check for slugs and snails, pink stems (see below) are also available. stems of the plants in the middle. since they will f lourish in the shelter of the protective sleeves. Celery root and most celery are The outer plants in a block of self- long-season crops, but leaf celery blanching celery, however, and all ROUTINE CARE and fennel are quicker to mature. trench celery plants, are best blanched To produce tender, nonstringy stems, Leaf celery is very hardy and will with collars (see above). In late summer, provide a constant supply of moisture last through to the following spring. when the plants are 9–12in (23–30cm) throughout the growing season to Celery and fennel are prone to bolting tall, loosely wrap strips—15in (38cm) swell the stems, but avoid waterlogging. and running to seed, especially if long and as wide as the plant is tall Mulching (see p.72) will help to conserve planted too early, but some bolt- —of lightproof paper or black plastic moisture. Celery root and celery can resistant cultivars are now available. around the stems, and secure with be protected from winter frost by a two loops of garden twine. Black layer of straw or bracken placed around SITE AND SOIL plastic must also be lined with paper the plants. For feeding requirements, All stem vegetables need a fertile, well- to prevent the stems from sweating, see individual crops, pp.121–122. drained, moisture-retentive soil, with which could cause rotting. In windy plenty of organic matter incorporated areas, tie the twine around a cane to Planting in a block provide support. Leave one-third of For celery, especially the self-blanching types Pink-stemmed celery the plant exposed to allow it to keep —here ‘Victoria’ (background) and ‘Celebrity’ For an interesting salad, try growing one of (foreground)—block planting, with the plants the attractive pink- or red-stemmed trench positioned 10in (25cm) apart each way, aids celery cultivars (here ‘Blush’). These are usually the blanching process by excluding some light. hardier than the white-stemmed types, and can therefore be used later in the season.
A–Z OF STEM VEGETABLES 121 A–Z OF STEM VEGETABLES Celery and be slow to germinate (see p.62). For self- leaf celery blanching celery, sow seed in pots or trays in a propagator (see p.63) in early to mid- Apium graveolens var. dulce spring at 59°F (15°C); sow on the surface, since the seed needs light to germinate, and keep SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER it moist. Prick out the seedlings when they have one true leaf into larger trays (see p.64). SELF-BLANCHING/GREEN CELERY Grow the seedlings at a minimum temperature of at least 50°F (10°C) to prevent bolting. SOW •• When the plants have 4–6 true leaves, plant them out so that the crown of the plant is at TRANSPLANT ••• soil level. They can withstand light frosts, but early crops should be protected with frames, HARVEST •••• cloches, or fleece (see pp.45–48). Space the plants about 10in (25cm) apart in a block (see TRENCH CELERY p.120). Water in well. SOW •• Sow trench celery as for self-blanching celery. Harden off before transplanting in TRANSPLANT •• late spring to early summer in the prepared trench or on the flat in single rows, for ease of HARVEST •• management; the exact plant spacing depends on the size of stick required. If you need to LEAF CELERY conserve space, you can use a double row, sited 24–30in (60–75cm) from the next crop. SOW •• • • For leaf celery, sow either in seed trays or TRANSPLANT ••• pots (see p.64) as for self-blanching celery, ••••••• or preferably as multiblocks (see p.65). You HARVEST •• can also sow a few multiblocks in late summer to crop in a greenhouse in winter and spring. Celery is grown for its f leshy, blanched stems, up to 10in (25cm) in length, which are eaten SOWING DEPTH on surface, or very shallow raw in salads or cooked as a vegetable or in PLANT SPACING self-blanching: 10in (25cm) soups. The inner stems gradually get smaller, trench: 12–18in (30–45cm) but are more tender and better blanched than ROW SPACING leaf: 5in (13cm) single plants the outer ones. There are three main types: 8in (20cm) multiblocks self-blanching and green celery; trench celery; self-blanching: 10in (25cm) and leaf, or cutting, celery. trench: 12in (30cm) leaf: 12in (30cm) Self-blanching celery cultivars have off-white stalks; these and green celery cultivars are easy to ■ Routine care Celery requires plenty of grow, but less hardy and slightly less flavorsome moisture, and must grow evenly without any than trench types. Trench celery demands a lot checks to prevent stringiness. Water well once of space in the garden and a fair amount of skill or twice a week; in dry spells, use 5 gallons to blanch the stems successfully, whether this per sq yd (22 liters per sq m) per watering. Use is done in the traditional way using trenches a mulch to retain moisture (see p.72). When and earthing up or in the more modern way of the plants are about half their final size, before planting on the flat and using collars (see p.120). the leaves touch, top-dress with sulfate of There are white-, red-, and pink-stemmed ammonia (see p.20) at a rate of 11⁄2oz per sq yd cultivars (see p.120). Leaf celery is a small, very (50g per sq m), washing any excess off the hardy plant, with fine stems and scented leaves, foliage to avoid scorching. Repeat this, or give that can be grown in containers. It is useful a liquid feed (see p.21), if the leaves yellow. as a salad herb or flavoring. When working Earth up trench celery planted in a trench. with celery, beware of celery rash; always keep For trench celery planted on the flat, and for your hands and arms covered for safety. Self- self-blanching celery plants on the outside of blanching, green, and trench celery yield 12 a block, wrap collars around the stems (see heads, 1lb (450g) each, per 10ft (3m) row. Leaf p.120). For leaf celery, remove yellow leaves. celery yields 15–20 heads per 10ft (3m) row. ■ Harvesting and storing Celery takes 4–8 ■ Site and soil Celery needs an open site and months to mature. From midsummer to the rich, moisture-retentive, well-drained soil with first frosts, test self-blanching celery for maturity plenty of organic matter added to it (see p.120); before harvesting—take an inner stalk from it also needs a pH of 6.6–6.8, so you should a plant in the middle of the block and see if it add lime to acid soils (see pp.18–19). For trench will snap and not show any stringiness. It is celery, in fall dig a trench 15–18in (38–45cm) vital to harvest before the stems deteriorate and wide and 12in (30cm) deep, working in plenty the leaves yellow. Water the plants well before of organic matter. If growing the celery on the flat, fill in the trench to the top; if the celery is to be earthed up, fill to 3–4in (8–10cm) below the surface, leaving the rest of the soil at the side of the trench for earthing up later. ■ Sowing and planting Always use treated seed in order to avoid seed-borne diseases (see below) that can spoil the crop. Celery seed may
122 VEGETABLES harvesting, or the stems will quickly wilt. Dig spring in a propagator at 59°F (15°C) either garden. Succulent, aniseed-f lavored “bulbs,” up the plant, trim off the outer side roots and in trays or seed trays, or several seeds to a pot which can be either cooked or eaten raw, any small stems; the stick can be stored whole in or tray (see pp.64–65). When large enough develop from the swollen bases of the leaf a refrigerator for up to a week. Break individual to handle, prick out the seedlings into larger stalks. The leaves and stalks may also be stems off the main stick as required, and wash trays (see p.64), or thin to one per pot or tray, eaten in salads. Plants are extremely prone and prepare them. If the individual stems are and keep above 50°F (10°C). From mid-spring to bolting, but bolt-resistant cultivars are prepared before storing, the cut ends will turn to early summer, harden the plants off (see available. Florence fennel will yield 3–5lb brown. Trench celery is ready in late fall and p.65) before planting out in well-spaced rows per 10ft (1.4–2.25kg per 3m) row. early winter; harvest in the same way as self- or blocks (see p.71); they need plenty of light ■ Site and soil Florence fennel prefers blanching celery. Wash the whole stick before and air around them, and if planted too fertile, well-drained, sandy soil (see p.120) storing. For leaf celery, regularly pick leaves closely will produce poor roots. Better crops that has preferably been well manured for from the edges of the plants as needed. are usually achieved if planted out in late a previous crop (see pp.22–23). ■ Common problems Carrot f ly (see p.253), spring rather than early summer, so they ■ Sowing and planting For early crops, sow leaf miner (see p.253), and slugs and snails can establish before the hot, dry weather. a quick-maturing cultivar in trays (see p.62) in (see p.262) may be troublesome pests. Diseases early to mid-spring and plant out when the that may affect the crop include fungal leaf SOWING DEPTH on surface seedlings have no more than four true leaves, spots (see p.257), foot and root rots (see p.255), PLANT SPACING 12in (30cm) taking care not to disturb the young roots. Cover and violet root rot (see p.263). ROW SPACING 18in (45cm) the seedlings with fleece, cloches, or cold frames ■ Recommended cultivars (see pp.45–48). Even with these precautions, there Self-blanching/green celery ■ Routine care Water well once or twice a is still a risk that the crop may bolt. For direct ‘Granada’—hybrid, crisp, resistant to leaf blight. week; in dry spells, use 5 gallons per sq yd (22 sowings, sow a few seeds at a time, at weekly ‘Lathom Galaxy’—strong ribbed stems. liters per sq m) for each watering. Apply a mulch intervals, after the longest day in midsummer; ‘Redventure’—stunning red, robust variety. to retain moisture (see p.72). If the crop is slow- bolt-resistant cultivars may be sown earlier. ‘Tango’—hybrid green type. growing, or looks pale, top-dress with sulfate ‘Utah’—tender and crisp, sweet, nutty f lavor. of ammonia (see p.20) at a rate of 1oz per sq yd The seed needs a minimum of 59°F (15°C) Trench celery (35g per sq m). In midsummer, remove any in order to germinate. Sow 3–4 seeds per ‘Blush’—attractive, pink stems. outer leaves that are splitting away from the station at 12in (30cm) intervals, and thin to ‘Gigante Dorato’—Italian celery, a taste treat. stem and yellowing; this should produce stems a single, strong-growing seedling when they ‘Ideal’—finest show bench cultivar, with a that are less knobby. If you are leaving the crop are large enough to handle. The depth of pink basal tinge to the stems. in the ground over winter, protect it against sowing is critical for success; if the seeds are ‘Pascal’—giant, white stems. frost with a 6in (15cm) layer of bracken or straw sown too shallowly, the resulting plants are ‘Solid White’—traditional, white stems, tasty. tucked around the plants. liable to rock in the wind, and they may ‘Tendercrisp’—massive, compact heads. ■ Harvesting and storing Celery root takes even twist and break off. Leaf celery six months to mature. Early cultivars can be ‘Parcel’—leafy type for f lavoring. harvested from early fall and later ones up to SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) mid-spring. The stems are ready when they PLANT SPACING 12in (30cm) reach 3–5in (8–13cm) in diameter. Lift the ROW SPACING 12in (30cm) stem, trim off the roots, and wash it clean. Celery root Twist off the top, unless some of the leaves ■ Routine care Florence fennel needs plenty are to be used in soup. Celery root is best of moisture throughout the growing period, Apium graveolens var. rapaceum left in the ground until needed and then used so mulch (see p.72) to help conserve moisture. fresh. Where the winters are particularly severe, Feeding is not usually required. If plants start MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER however, it can be stored. Dig the plant up in to rock, lightly earth up the stems. When the SOW ••• early winter, leaving the roots and central tuft stems begin to swell, earth up to halfway TRANSPLANT •• of leaves untrimmed, and place it in a box of over the bulb to make it whiter and sweeter. HARVEST moist sand in a cool, dark place (see p.73). ■ Harvesting Florence fennel takes at least ••• ■ Common problems As for celery (see p.121). three months to mature. When the bulbs have ■ Recommended cultivars reached a good size, harvest them by cutting •• ••• ‘Alabaster’—smooth, round bulbs. at ground level to leave a stump, which will ‘Balder’—large, smooth bulbs, stores well. resprout to produce shoots suitable for use in Celery root produces a knobby, swollen “bulb” ‘Brilliant’—excellent early-maturing variety. salads. If any bulbs start to elongate, showing at the base of the stem, up to 5in (13cm) in ‘Giant Prague’—traditional celery root for any that they are running to seed, harvest them diameter (see illustration, p.34); the bulb can be site or soil. quickly or they will be too tough to use. cooked or grated raw into winter salads. It is ‘Mars’—large, pale-green roots full of f lavor. ■ Common problems Rhizoctonia, causing sometimes described as turnip-rooted celery, plants to rot off either as seedlings or mature having a similar taste to celery. Celery root is Florence fennel bulbs, can be a problem. Practice good crop hardier than self-blanching celery, being able rotation (see p.31) and avoid growing lettuce to survive temperatures as low as 14°F (–10°C) Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum or radish crops on the same ground. if protected by straw. It is a useful alternative ■ Recommended cultivars to celery in the winter, because it is hardier MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER ‘Romanesco’—large bulbs, with high and less prone to problems. Newer cultivars are SOW ••• resistance to bolting. being bred to produce smoother stems that TRANSPLANT •• •• ‘Rudy’—quick-maturing hybrid, white bulbs. are easier to peel. Celery root yields 10 heads, HARVEST ‘Selma’—bolt-resistant, very good for braising 8–12oz (225–400g) each, per 10ft (3m) row. •• and as a salad ingredient. ■ Site and soil Celery root needs a rich soil ‘Victorio’—vigorous, very reliable for later with plenty of organic matter incorporated •• sowings. into it (see p.120). It prefers an open site, but ‘Zefa Fino’—bolt-resistant, solid bulbs, with will tolerate a limited amount of shade. Florence, or sweet, fennel produces very good color. ■ Sowing and planting For best results, handsome, feathery foliage, and makes an ‘Zefa Tardo’—solid bulbs, late-maturing. celery root needs a long, uninterrupted extremely ornamental vegetable for the growing season. Sow seeds in early to mid-
GROWING LEAFY VEGETABLES 123 Growing leafy vegetables Leafy vegetables are grown for their alkaline in pH (see p.18), with very Bolting crops tasty and sometimes decorative leaves, moist soil; this is best ensured by liberal In summer, or earlier which, unlike those of salad crops applications of organic matter when in a greenhouse, (see pp.101–107), are usually cooked preparing the soil. Freedom from any Oriental brassicas before eating. They tend to be frost- traces of clubroot (see p.254) is also vital (here mustard greens sensitive, or, even if they tolerate for Oriental brassicas. Swiss chard and ‘Braising Mix’) may frost, grow slowly in cold weather; spinach beet, and New Zealand spinach bolt, or run to seed, so they are often grown as annuals, can be grown on relatively dry soils. if they are exposed especially in temperate regions. Some SOWING AND PLANTING to excessive cold early are also quite ornamental—Swiss Leafy vegetables are best raised from in their development, chards and bok choy have colored seed sown direct outdoors. If sowing especially in periods stems and leaf veins that contrast under cover, however, do not sow in of lengthening days. vividly with the green foliage. All trays or pots, since transplanting the They will also bolt if yield abundantly and are easy to exposed to excessive grow. They fall into two broad groups: Cut-and-come-again leaves warmth or kept too spinaches and chards, and Oriental Some leafy vegetables, such as this Swiss dry. The flowerheads, brassicas. For western brassicas, such chard, make good cut-and-come-again crops. however, are edible as cabbage and texsel greens, see pp.76– When the seedlings are 4–6in (10–15cm) tall, and tasty, and the 81; for salad leaves, see pp.101–107. cut them 1in (2.5cm) above ground level. seeds may be saved unless they derive The spinach and chards group from a hybrid cultivar. includes amaranths, spinach, Ceylon spinach, New Zealand spinach, Swiss bare-root seedlings of leafy vegetables chard, and spinach beet. Some, such promotes bolting. Plants sown directly as Ceylon spinach, are tropical or in modules (see p.65) can be safely subtropical in origin and require high transplanted. Leafy vegetables are fast- temperatures to grow well; others, growing crops, taking 6–12 weeks like spinach and Swiss chard, are cool- from sowing to harvest (see individual season crops that can withstand some crops, pp.125–128), and they can soon degree of frost. They are therefore become overmature and unpalatable. very useful crops for overwintering, It is a good idea, therefore, to make to provide fresh leafy vegetables early regular successional sowings (see p.69); in the “hungry gap,” the period from Swiss chard and spinach beet can be late winter to mid-spring when not picked over a long period, however, and many vegetables are available. Oriental brassicas may bolt if sown early. Oriental brassicas include Chinese SEEDLING CROPS broccoli, Chinese cabbage, flowering Diseases, pests, and bolting can be greens, mustard greens, spinach mustard, avoided by growing greens (meaning and bok choy. They are adapted to hot the foliage of leafy vegetables, rather climates with high rainfall and adequate than spring greens, which refers to soil moisture, and respond to the colder unhearted spring cabbage, see p.78) weather and dry summers of more for use as seedlings or as cut-and-come- temperate climates by bolting (see above) again crops (see left and p.102). Seed or developing very strong flavors. This packets containing mixes of different limits them to sowing after midsummer leafy vegetables are sold for this very for late-summer and fall cropping, purpose, as an economical alternative unless bolt-resistant cultivars are used. to buying several packets. If densely However, some are sufficiently hardy sown, in rows only 4–6in (10–15cm) to survive the winter and provide crops apart, to obtain one seedling every 1⁄2in in the spring. Although usually grown (1cm), surprisingly large crops of seedling for their young leaves, flowering shoots leaves can be taken from small areas— of Oriental brassicas can also be used equivalent to 9–12 lettuce heads per 10ft in salads to add a touch of spiciness. (3m) row. If, when harvesting the first crop, you leave intact the heart leaves in SITE AND SOIL the centers, the seedlings will resprout Both spinach and Oriental brassicas need vigorously to yield another crop. Several very fertile soil that is neutral to slightly
124 VEGETABLES harvests of leaves can be taken from late or under cloches (see p.48). In both Using containers sowings, but early sowings containing cases, protect from slugs and snails, Some leafy vegetable Oriental brassicas bolt so readily that and birds. The leaves may be harvested crops, like this Swiss only one crop is usually possible. The even if they do not fully mature. chard ‘Bright Lights’, tender leaves are suitable for eating raw can be grown in in salads or for very light cooking. CONTAINER GROWING containers such as Leafy vegetables, especially seedling troughs to create a Prevent damage from foliage pests crops, because they are fast-growing decorative display by protecting the seedlings with fleece and shallow-rooted, are suitable for as well as producing or fine woven mesh (see p.48), and growing in containers (see above), using an edible crop. Use also control slugs and snails (see p.262). multipurpose compost or spent growing a compost that is rich Dead leaves and garden debris can make bags. These materials are sterile and in organic matter, and subsequent harvests unattractive, so a therefore free of weeds and diseases, keep it moist at all thorough clean-up after each harvest is ideal where clubroot is present and times. Regular feeding essential. Weed control (see below) must to minimize weeding. If using a spent will also be necessary. also be scrupulous, to avoid weed leaves growing bag, clean out any old roots being gathered with the edible leaves. and water the growing bag thoroughly of the crops grown in containers is, to wash out any residues from the however, dependent on correct and MAXIMIZING YOUR CROPS previous crop. By growing them in regular watering and feeding (see below). Leafy vegetables are quick-growing containers, fresh vegetables can be raised and their leaves can be gathered while on balconies, near the back door, or ROUTINE CARE the plants are still small. They are in greenhouses in winter. The quality The best way to control weeds with leafy therefore useful for growing as catch vegetables is to give them a weed-free crops (see p.69) and for intercropping start, using a stale seedbed (see p.66). (see p.71). Spinach, mustard greens, Swiss Remove any further weeds by hoeing chard, and spinach beet all tolerate light between the rows as necessary. shade, and will fit neatly between tall, widely spaced crops such as corn. Apply a base fertilizer before sowing (see individual crops, pp.125–128), unless OVERWINTERED CROPS the soil has been enriched with organic Spinach and spinach beet sown in late matter. For cut-and-come-again leaves, summer will grow all winter to provide apply a compound fertilizer at a rate of fresh greens in mid-spring. Sown in 1oz per sq yd (35g per sq m) or pelleted late summer (spinach beet) or early fall poultry manure at 11⁄2oz per sq yd (spinach) in open ground, they can (50g per sq m). Some crops may require be gathered from mid-spring to early another top-dressing of nitrogenous summer. Alternatively, sow in modules fertilizer (see individual crops, pp.125–128). (see p.65) and plant out into greenhouses Water frequently to keep the top 8in (20cm) of soil moist. Lack of water, even if brief, can lead to slow growth, loss of texture, peppery flavors, and bolting in all crops. If keeping your containers well watered is difficult in spells of hot weather, or at vacation times, move them into a shaded area to prevent damage to the plants. Harvesting amaranths Harvesting spinach HARVESTING Gather young shoots and leaves, cutting them You can start to pick the outer leaves about with a sharp knife, when the plants are about 6–10 weeks after sowing. Alternatively, use a Once mature, the leaves quickly coarsen 10in (25cm) tall. Keep harvesting until the sharp knife to sever the whole plant 1in (2.5cm) in texture and flavor, and the stems plants produce flowers and growth ceases. above ground level; it will then resprout. become fibrous, so commence picking or cutting the leaves and shoots as soon as they reach the desired size, and continue until the plants flower (see left). They are best harvested in the cool of the morning or evening, and stored in a refrigerator, to avoid wilting. If an entire plant is cut at an early stage as a cut-and-come-again crop, leaving a stump, it should provide another crop.
A–Z OF LEAFY VEGETABLES 125 A–Z OF LEAFY VEGETABLES Amaranth Bok choy Amaranthus species Brassica rapa var. chinensis MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER SOW •• SOW TRANSPLANT • TRANSPLANT ••• • HARVEST ••••• HARVEST •• ••••• Amaranths, which are also known as African Bok choy, or celery mustard, is an Oriental brassica or Indian spinach, are rapidly growing annuals, (see p.123) with a handsome head of paddle-shaped typically reaching 2ft (60cm) tall, whose leaves leaves with wide midribs. Light cooking will can be used in salads or cooked in the same preserve its refreshing, delicate texture and flavor; way as spinach. They have a sharp, spinach- it can also be eaten raw in salads. Flowering shoots like f lavor. Amaranthus cruentus is the most are very palatable. Like Chinese cabbages, it is an commonly grown cultivar, and has light green, excellent crop for late summer, including catch crops oval leaves. A. caudatus, widely grown as an (see p.69), but will bolt (see p.123) if exposed to cold ornamental plant, has bright red, tassel-like and long days. Bok choy grows speedily in early fall, f lowers and pale green leaves. A. tricolor, or and with protection (see pp.46–48) can be harvested Chinese spinach, has greenish-white f lowers until late fall. It yields 9–12 heads per 10ft (3m) row. and green, yellow, or red leaves. Although ■ Site and soil A deep, fertile, moisture- they are not frost-hardy, amaranths grow well retentive soil, with plenty of organic matter in temperate summers and are not fussy about added, in a sheltered, sunny site is best (see p.123). soil or site; however, they will appreciate a very If necessary, apply a base dressing as for spinach sunny, sheltered position. Amaranths yield (see p.128) before sowing or planting. 16lb per 10ft (7.25kg per 3m) row. ■ Sowing and planting Late summer sowings ■ Site and soil Amaranths prefer a moderately will not usually bolt and may be station sown deep, fertile, well-drained, acid to neutral soil, in position (see p.68), but early sowings are risky in a sunny, sheltered position. If necessary, because the lengthening days exacerbate the apply a base dressing as for spinach (see p.128) inclination to bolt due to cold. Sowing at before sowing. 68–77ºF (20–25ºC) and growing seedlings at ■ Sowing and planting When the soil is 64–77ºF (18–25ºC) will prevent bolting even warm enough in late spring, sow thinly in when sowing in spring, although 50–55ºF position. Protect the sowing with f leece or (10–13ºC) is usually adequate for bolt-resistant cloches (see pp.46–48). Thin as soon as the cultivars and later sowings. For early sowings, seedlings can be handled (see p.68), and remove therefore, raise seedlings of bolt-resistant alternate plants when they are large enough to cultivars singly in trays (see p.65), in heated harvest. Alternatively, sow seed singly in trays conditions, in mid- to late spring and transplant (see p.65) indoors in mid-spring. as soon as they can be handled. SOWING DEPTH 3⁄4in (2cm) SOWING DEPTH 3⁄4in (2cm) SEED SPACING sow thinly; thin to 3in (8cm) PLANT SPACING 4in (10cm) PLANT SPACING 6in (15cm) ROW SPACING 18in (45cm) ROW SPACING 12in (30cm) ■ Routine care The roots are shallow, and ■ Routine care Water and top-dress as for should therefore be watered little and often, spinach (see p.128). Pinch out the growing tip never letting the soil dry out fully. Wet the when 8in (20cm) tall to promote bushiness. top 8in (20cm) of soil, adding a nitrogen-rich ■ Harvesting Amaranths mature in 10–12 fertilizer (see pp.20–23) before watering if weeks. Start to gather young shoots and growth slows. Protect spring-sown crops with leaves when the plants are 10in (25cm) tall f leece or cloches if cold weather threatens. (see p.124). Continue to harvest until the ■ Harvesting Bok choy takes about 10 weeks plants f lower and growth ceases. Amaranths to mature. Pick leaves whenever needed from often set abundant seed, which is worth the seedling stage onward; or wait for the tight, saving (see p.61), although the seedlings may plump heads of mature plants to form after not come true. around 10 weeks. Use the leaves while they ■ Common problems Powdery mildew and are fresh; they wilt quickly if stored. Like aphids occasionally occur. For symptoms Chinese cabbage, the stumps will repeatedly and controls, see Plant Problems, p.260 and p.251. resprout (see p.124), providing several pickings ■ Recommended cultivars of useful greens over 2–6 weeks. Bok choy is ‘Calalo’—green leaves with violet veins. also useful for cut-and-come-again crops (see ‘Indian Spinach’—bold green leaves. p.123), ready to harvest in about two weeks. ‘Red Amaranth’—green leaves with red ■ Common problems As for Chinese broccoli herringbone patterns. (see p.126).
126 VEGETABLES ■ Recommended cultivars ■ Common problems This crop is usually ‘Tendergreen’—derived from a cross between ‘Cantong Dwarf ’—compact, thick-stemmed. trouble-free. Chinese broccoli and calabrese broccoli; ‘Joi Choi’—relatively bolt-resistant. intermediate size and f lavor, and yellow f lowers. ‘Purple Choi Sum’—tasty flowering stalks and leaves. Chinese broccoli Chinese cabbage ‘Tatsoi’—traditional, f lattened rosette, tasty. Brassica rapa var. alboglabra Ceylon or MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER Brassica rapa var. pekinensis Malabar spinach SOW •••• ••• TRANSPLANT • MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER HARVEST •• SOW ••••• TRANSPLANT ••• Basella species HARVEST ••••• MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER Chinese broccoli, or Chinese kale, is an Oriental Chinese cabbage, or Chinese leaves, is an SOW •• brassica (see p.123) with succulent, pleasant- Oriental brassica (see p.123) with dense heads TRANSPLANT •• tasting, leafy, f lowering shoots reminiscent in and a crisp, mild cabbage f lavor, suitable for HARVEST •••• f lavor of purple-sprouting broccoli or calabrese light cooking or salads. Flowering shoots are broccoli sideshoots, but more tangy. The shoots extremely palatable. The head may be barrel- Also known as Malabar nightshade, vine of Chinese broccoli are green, with white or shaped or elongated; the leaves are usually pale spinach, or basella, these plants are very popular yellow f lowers. The plants are similar to hybrid green, with white veins and broad, f lat ribs. leafy greens in the tropics, and are used in a calabrese, and hybrids have also been developed They are very fast-growing, and ideal for use similar way to spinach. They are green- (Basella between the two. Chinese broccoli is tolerant as catch crops (see p.69) sown in late summer. alba) or red-leaved (B. rubra), trailing perennials, of hot weather, and slightly frost-resistant. It Nonhearting cultivars, known as loose-headed usually grown as annuals. They are useful yields 9–12 bunches per 10ft (3m) row. cabbage, have darker leaves and a stronger for ornamental kitchen gardens, especially if ■ Site and soil A deep, fertile, moisture- cabbage f lavor; the attractive crops are grown grown as climbers. Ceylon spinach yields 61⁄2lb retentive soil with plenty of organic matter in the same way. Chinese cabbage normally per 10ft (3kg per 3m) row. Named cultivars (see p.123) in a sheltered, sunny site is best. yields 9–12 heads per 10ft (3m) row. are not available. If necessary, apply a base dressing as for spinach ■ Site and soil A deep, fertile, moisture- ■ Site and soil A fertile, well-drained, but (see p.128) before sowing or planting out. retentive soil, with plenty of organic matter moisture-retentive soil with a good organic ■ Sowing and planting Sow in summer in added, in a sheltered, sunny site is best (see matter content (see p.123) and a pH of 6–7.5 position and thin (see p.68) to the final spacing, p.123). Feed as for spinach (see p.128), but (see p.18) in a sunny, sheltered site is best. or raise seedlings in spring singly in trays (see double the rate of application if the soil is not Ceylon spinach needs temperatures of 77–86ºF p.65) and transplant as soon as they can be very fertile and top-dress with nitrogenous (25–30ºC) to thrive. If necessary, apply a base handled, usually after 5–7 weeks, or as soon as fertilizer (see p.20) if growth appears to slow. dressing as for spinach (see p.128), before planting the rootball can be handled without breaking Early and late sowings will benefit from cloche out the seedlings. up; trays, composts, and growing conditions or f leece protection (see pp.46–48). ■ Sowing and planting Sow seed under cover will all inf luence this timing. To avoid bolting ■ Sowing and planting Late summer sowings singly in trays or small pots (see pp.64–65). Plant (see p.123), if sowing before midsummer, use will not usually bolt and may be station sown in out when the seedlings can be handled by the bolt-resistant cultivars. position (see p.68), but spring sowings are risky leaves, usually after four weeks; protect them with because the lengthening days exacerbate the f leece or cloches (see p.48) in adverse weather. SOWING DEPTH 3⁄4in (2cm) inclination to bolt due to cold. Sowing seed Later crops may be raised from stem cuttings, PLANT SPACING 12in (30cm) at temperatures of 68–77ºF (20–25ºC) and that are 4–6in (10–15cm) long, rooted in small ROW SPACING 12in (30cm) growing seedlings at 64–77ºF (18–25ºC) will pots and transplanted as for seedlings (see above). prevent bolting even when sowing in spring, ■ Routine care Water regularly, thoroughly although 50–55ºF (10–13ºC) is usually adequate SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) wetting the top 8in (20cm) of soil. Feeding is not for bolt-resistant cultivars and later sowings. PLANT SPACING 4–6in (10–15cm) usually necessary. For spring sowings, therefore, raise seedlings ROW SPACING 12in (30cm) ■ Harvesting Chinese broccoli takes about of bolt-resistant cultivars singly in trays 10 weeks to mature. Cut the mature shoots just (see p.65), in heated conditions, and transplant ■ Routine care Weed thoroughly, and apply before the f lowers open, starting with the central as soon as they can be handled. organic mulches (see p.72). Top-dress with a one and moving onto the sideshoots. Peel the nitrogen-rich fertilizer (see pp.20–23), and stems, and use the tender inner f lesh. They will SOWING DEPTH 3⁄4in (2cm) water regularly to keep the soil moist. Train not be as large as calabrese brocolli shoots. PLANT SPACING 12in (30cm) plants up vertical netting supports to save ■ Common problems Oriental brassicas are ROW SPACING 18in (45cm) space, or across netting stretched horizontally prone to many of the problems suffered by just above the level of the crop when it begins western brassicas, especially cabbage root f ly ■ Routine care The roots are shallow, so to need support—12–18in (30–45cm) above and clubroot. Other pests may include f lea water little and often, never letting the soil dry the ground—to keep the leaves off the ground beetle, caterpillars, whitef ly, aphid, birds out fully. Wet the top 8in (20cm) of soil, adding and therefore clean. Pinch out the growing (especially pigeons), cutworm, leather jackets, a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (see pp.20–23) before tips when shoots are about 12in (30cm) long, and, to a lesser extent, slugs and snails. Diseases watering if growth slows down. Protect spring- and remove any f lowers to keep plants bushy may include white blister, powdery and downy sown crops after planting with f leece or cloches and producing young foliage. mildew, and sometimes bacterial leaf spot. if cold weather threatens. ■ Harvesting Ceylon spinach usually reaches Occasionally boron or molybdenum deficiency ■ Harvesting and storing Chinese cabbage maturity in 10–12 weeks. Gather the fresh young may also affect the crop. For symptoms and matures in 9–10 weeks. Cut the heads just above sideshoots when they are 6in (15cm) long. controls, see Plant Problems, pp.246–264. soil level when they feel solid. They can be used Frequent picking will encourage more shoots to ■ Recommended cultivars fresh, or stored in a refrigerator for six weeks be produced. The seed is worth saving (see p.61), ‘Green Lance’—vigorous hybrid, bearing or more. Harvest the leaves of plants that have but remember that it may not always come true. white f lowers. bolted as loose greens. If a 1in (2.5cm) stump is ‘Kailaan White Flowered’—thick, tasty stem.
A–Z OF LEAFY VEGETABLES 127 left when cutting the head, it will resprout to watered little and often, never letting the soil spring and early summer; transplant as soon produce more leaves after 2–4 weeks, and may be dry out fully. Wet the top 8in (20cm) of soil, as they can be handled. harvested again several times. Late-sown seedlings adding a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (see pp.20–23) are useful as cut-and-come-again crops (see p.123) before watering if growth appears to slow. If SOWING DEPTH 1⁄2in (1cm) that can be harvested after about two weeks. cold weather threatens, protect spring-sown PLANT SPACING 6–12in (15–30cm) ■ Common problems As for Chinese broccoli crops after planting with f leece or cloches. ROW SPACING 18in (45cm) (see left); except for resistant cultivars, it is very ■ Harvesting Flowering greens take about susceptible to clubroot (see p.77 and p.254). 10 weeks to mature. Flowering stems should ■ Routine care The roots are shallow, and ■ Recommended cultivars be cut then, but outer leaves may be picked should therefore be watered little and often, ‘Apex’—barrel-shaped, slow bolting. earlier. Pick while the stalk is tender and the never letting the soil dry out fully. Wet the ‘Green Rocket’—long, thin, mild heads. f lower buds are closed. Storage is not possible, top 8in (20cm) of soil, adding a nitrogen-rich ‘Rubicon’—sweet, tangy, juicy f lavor. and they are best used fresh. Regrowth from fertilizer (see pp.20–23) before watering if ‘Tah Tsai’—leafy, non-hearting cabbage, bolts stumps can be used for greens (see p.123), and growth slows down. Protect spring-sown readily, good for cut-and-come-again crops. these make good cut-and-come-again crops. crops after planting if cold weather threatens. ‘Wa Wa Sai’—sweet f lavor, quick growing. ■ Common problems As for Chinese broccoli ■ Harvesting Mustard greens and spinach ‘Wong Bok’—traditional, barrel-shaped. (see facing page). mustard take 6–8 weeks to mature, after ■ Recommended cultivars which you can cut selected leaves as required. Flowering greens ‘Hon Tsai Tai’—purple f lower stalks and midribs, The plants will stand in good condition for green foliage. several weeks, allowing a prolonged harvest, Brassica campestris subsp. chinensis ‘Purple’—very attractive purple foliage. and regrowth from cut stumps will yield var. utilis further harvests. They may also be used as Mustard greens cut-and-come-again seedling crops (see p.123), MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER usually ready after about two weeks. The seed SOW and spinach is worth saving (see p.61). TRANSPLANT ••• • mustard ■ Common problems As for Chinese broccoli HARVEST (see facing page). ••• ■ Recommended cultivars ‘Green in Snow’—dark green, jagged leaves. ••••• ‘Red Giant’—crinkly Savoylike, red leaves. ‘Sheurifong Improved’—bolt-resistant. Also known as Chinese f lowering cabbage or Brassica juncea and B. rapa choy sum, these Oriental brassicas (see p.123) subsp. perviridis are f lowering versions of bok choy (see p.127), and are used like Chinese broccoli (see left). MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER New Zealand They have a tender, red or green, leafy stalk SOW ••••• spinach bearing unopened f lowers, and possess a TRANSPLANT •• mild, peppery, cabbage f lavor that needs light HARVEST ••••• cooking. They are best grown in late summer for harvesting in fall, as earlier sowings will Mustard greens (Brassica juncea) are a varied Tetragonia tetragonioides bolt (see p.123). Bolted stems are usable, but group of Oriental brassicas (see p.123) with a only for a brief period. The f lowering shoots tangy, peppery, cabbage f lavor that becomes MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER will become overmature quickly in hot summer more fiery as they run to seed. The f lowering SOW ••• weather. Flowering greens normally yield 9–12 shoots can be extremely hot, but the leaves may TRANSPLANT • bunches per 10ft (3m) row. be lightly cooked or used in salads. Leaves HARVEST ••••• ■ Site and soil A deep, fertile, moisture- may be green, red, or purple, with smooth retentive soil, with plenty of organic matter or blistered surfaces and straight or jagged edges. New Zealand spinach is a trailing, half-hardy added, in a sheltered, sunny site is best (see Rich in vitamins and minerals, mustard greens perennial usually grown as an annual. It has p.123). If necessary, apply a base dressing as are nutritionally among the most valuable of spiked, triangular leaves, about 2in (5cm) long, for spinach (see p.128), for both normal and vegetables. Spinach mustard (Brassica rapa subsp. and trails for up to 4ft (1.2m), sometimes cut-and-come-again crops, before sowing. perviridis) is similar, but more closely related reaching heights of 2ft (60cm). Its young shoots ■ Sowing and planting Late summer to Chinese cabbage (see p.126). Mustard greens and leaves are used like spinach (see p.128). sowings will not usually bolt and may be and spinach mustard yield 31⁄4lb per sq yd It is slow to bolt, grows quickly, and is fairly station sown in position (see p.68), but early (1.5kg per sq m). tasty. It is an attractive groundcover plant, sowings are risky because the lengthening days ■ Site and soil A deep, fertile, moisture- needing little care, and is suitable for containers, exacerbate the tendency to bolt due to cold. retentive soil, with plenty of organic matter hanging baskets, or the ornamental kitchen Sowing seed at 68–77ºF (20–25ºC) and then added, in a sheltered, sunny site is best (see garden. It yields 13lb per 10ft (6kg per 3m) growing on the seedlings at 64–77ºF (18–25ºC) p.123). If necessary, apply a base dressing as row. Named cultivars are not offered. prevents bolting even when sowing in spring, for spinach (see p.128) before sowing. ■ Site and soil Sunny, sheltered sites are best. although 50–55ºF (10–13ºC) is usually adequate ■ Sowing and planting Late summer sowings Although fertile, moisture-retentive soil (see for bolt-resistant cultivars and later sowings. will not usually bolt and may be station sown p.123) is ideal, New Zealand spinach can survive For spring and early-summer sowings, therefore, in position (see p.68). Early sowings are risky, on much less water than spinach, Swiss chard, raise seedlings of bolt-resistant cultivars singly since lengthening days exacerbate the inclination or spinach beet, and requires no fertilizer on in trays (see p.65), in warmth; transplant as soon to bolt due to cold. Sowing seed at 68–77ºF fertile ground of good organic matter content. If as they can be handled. (20–25ºC) and growing seedlings at 64–77ºF necessary, however, apply a base dressing as for (18–25ºC) will prevent bolting even if sowing spinach (see p.128), before sowing or planting out. SOWING DEPTH 3⁄4in (2cm) in spring, although 50–55ºF (10–13ºC) is usually ■ Sowing and planting Soak the elongated, PLANT SPACING 6in (15cm) adequate for bolt-resistant cultivars and later woody fruits, containing seeds, for 24 hours ROW SPACING 18in (45cm) sowings. For early sowings, therefore, raise before sowing, to break down the hard seed coats seedlings of bolt-resistant cultivars singly in and speed up germination. Sow singly in trays ■ Routine care The roots of f lowering greens trays (see p.65), in heated conditions, in late (see p.65) in mid-spring and transplant as soon are quite shallow, and should therefore be as they can be handled, or station sow (see p.68)
128 VEGETABLES outdoors after risk of frost has past, in late spring handled, and then remove alternate plants when have prominent midribs which may be cooked or early summer. they are big enough to use. You can also station separately as an alternative to sea kale (see p.135). sow (see p.68). Alternatively, in midwinter, raise Spinach beet is grown exclusively for its leaves. SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) seedlings singly in trays (see p.65) and transplant Swiss chard and spinach beet make useful cut-and- PLANT SPACING 18in (45cm) as soon as they can be handled. Wide drills (see come-again crops (see p.123), ready to harvest after ROW SPACING 18in (45cm) p.67) are best for cut-and-come-again crops. about two weeks.Their bold leaves, which often have brightly colored—pink, red, yellow, or green— ■ Routine care Keep weed-free, and water Late sowings will overwinter for harvest in veins and stems, are highly valued as an ornamental only in the driest spells. spring. Overwintered crops need exact timing if vegetable, and they are also suitable for growing in ■ Harvesting and storing Shoots and leaves they are not to bolt before spring or be too small containers (see p.124). Swiss chard and spinach beet are usually ready to pick about six weeks after to survive the winter. If neighboring gardeners normally yield 13lb per 10ft (6kg per 3m) row. sowing, depending on conditions; those from cannot advise on local conditions and practice, ■ Site and soil A sunny, sheltered site with spring sowings may take longer. It is best used try sowing every other week during late summer fertile, well-drained, moisture-retentive soil fresh, but may also be frozen. Regular picking and early fall, each one 3–6ft (1–2m) in length. In (see p.123), with added organic matter, is best. promotes fresh growth. Young plants may be subsequent years, fewer sowings will be required. The pH should be neutral to slightly alkaline, cut near ground level; the stumps will regrow Alternatively, make your best guess and, if wrong, so acid soils may need liming (see pp.18–19). (see p.124). The seed is worth saving (see p.61). replace with module-raised plants sown in late Unless the soil has been enriched with plenty ■ Common problems This crop is usually winter indoors (see p.65). of organic matter, apply a base dressing of trouble-free, but may suffer from downy compound fertilizer at a rate of 6oz per sq yd mildew (see p.255) and from birds eating SOWING DEPTH 3/4in (2cm) (210g per sq m) or pelleted poultry manure at the seedlings (see p.252). SEED SPACING sow thinly; thin to 3in (8cm) 8oz per sq yd (270g per sq m). PLANT SPACING 6in (15cm) ■ Sowing and planting Swiss chard and ROW SPACING 12in (30cm) spinach beet are raised from multigerm seeds (see p.60), which are each actually a cluster of Spinach ■ Routine care Water freely to prevent bolting. seeds. Sow thinly, thinning (see p.68) to 4in Top-dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (see (10cm) apart when the plants can be handled; Spinacia oleracea pp.20–23) if growth appears to slow down. then remove alternate plants when they are large ■ Harvesting and storing Spinach takes enough to use. Mid- to late-summer sowings, for MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER 10–12 weeks to mature. Cut individual leaves harvest in the spring when few other vegetable SOW •• •• ••• •• of mature plants as required, or sever the whole crops are available, are the most useful, but spring TRANSPLANT • plant about 1in (2.5cm) above ground level, and early-summer sowings will provide supplies HARVEST leaving it to resprout for further harvests (see until the plants bolt in mid- to late fall. •••••••• p.124). The shoots and leaves may be frozen. Spinach also makes an easy cut-and-come-again True spinach is a reasonably hardy annual, seedling crop (see p.123), ready to harvest after SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) with leaves that are f lat, wrinkled (like Savoy about two weeks. SEED SPACING sow thinly; thin to 4in (10cm) cabbage), or semi-wrinkled. The leaves have ■ Common problems Downy mildew (see PLANT SPACING 8in (20cm) a very distinctive texture and f lavor, and p.255) can be damaging, but resistant cultivars are ROW SPACING 18in (45cm) may be cooked or eaten raw in salads—in fact, available; allowing 50 percent more space between spinach is often harvested as a cut-and-come- plants also helps. Birds (see p.252) are partial to ■ Routine care Water in dry spells. Top-dress again crop (see p.123), or used as a catch crop spinach seedlings; netting (see p.52) is the remedy. with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (see pp.20–21) if (see p.69). The seeds may be prickly or round. ■ Recommended cultivars growth appears to slow down. ‘Emu’—a great spring variety. ■ Harvesting Swiss chard and spinach beet Traditionally, spinach cultivars were divided ‘Giant Winter’ (‘Gigante d’Inverno’)—hardy, usually take 8–10 weeks to mature, but late- into summer and winter types; this distinction sow in fall or early spring. summer sowings will mature throughout no longer applies, however, since many modern ‘Olympia’—an excellent choice for cooking and the winter for harvest in spring. Pick tender, cultivars are dual-purpose. Spinach is not the year-round fresh spinach salads. young, blemish-free leaves as soon as they are easiest crop to grow, but for taste there is no ‘Reddy’—red leaf veins and stems, disease resistant. large enough, and continue to pick regularly real substitute. It normally yields around 13lb ‘Tyee’—upright plants hold leaves well above the to promote fresh, new growth of new tender per 10ft (6kg per 3m) row. ground. Bolt resistant. leaves. Mature plants may be left to stand until the leaves are needed, but they become more Oriental spinach is a new form of the same Swiss chard and coarse and unappetizing, and vulnerable to species as true spinach. It differs from true spinach beet weather and pest damage, until they bolt. spinach in having darker leaves and very long ■ Common problems Fungal leaf spot can stalks. It is fast-growing, and best suited to Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla var. flavescens disfigure older leaves, but the young, tender late-summer and fall production. Seed is less foliage is seldom affected. For symptoms and commonly sold than ordinary spinach, but MONTH SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER controls, see Plant Problems, p.256. named cultivars are available. SOW ••••• ••• ■ Recommended cultivars ■ Site and soil Any fertile, moisture-holding TRANSPLANT • ‘Bright Lights’—very brightly colored stems, soil (see p.123) is suitable. Unless the soil is HARVEST in hues of pink, red, orange, violet, gold, and enriched with organic matter, apply a base •• •• •• green, all on one plant. dressing of compound fertilizer at a rate of ‘Perpetual Spinach’—very hardy, drought- 3oz per sq yd (100g per sq m) or pelleted Swiss chard and spinach beet are botanically similar resistant, succulent, green leaves; less prone poultry manure at 4oz per sq yd (135g per sq m). to beets (see p.85), but have edible leaves and to bolting on dry soils. Sunny or, in summer, partially shaded sites insignificant roots.Their foliage is used as an ‘Rhubarb Chard’—bold scarlet stems and are best. For cut-and-come-again crops, use alternative to spinach. Although less flavorsome ribs and purple-green foliage; wide midribs. compound fertilizer at a rate of 1oz per sq yd and a little more peppery than spinach, these leaves Swiss chard—large, crinkly, green leaves, (35g per sq m) or pelleted poultry manure at are much easier to grow, more winter-hardy, and edible white midribs, sometimes called silver 11⁄2oz per sq yd (50g per sq m). much less susceptible to bolting. Swiss chard leaves or sea kale beet. ■ Sowing and planting Sow thinly in position in succession every three weeks (see p.69) from midwinter to early fall. Thin (see p.68) the seedlings first to 3in (8cm) as soon as they can be
GROWING PERENNIAL VEGETABLES 129 Growing perennial vegetables Perennial vegetables can make unusual, SITE AND SOIL also need regular watering and feeding, attractive, and interesting additions Before you plant perennial vegetables and some may require support in order to the vegetable garden. They are you will need to think very carefully to crop well (for individual crop needs, long-term crops that die right down about where to position them, since see pp.133–135). to ground level each fall and resprout these long-term crops could prevent the following year, just like ornamental light from reaching other, fast-maturing PROPAGATION herbaceous perennials. The perennial plants. As with most vegetables, an open, Unlike most other groups of vegetables, group encompasses asparagus, cardoons, sunny site is best, with a deep, rich soil which are usually grown from seed, Chinese artichokes, globe artichokes, that has free drainage but good moisture perennial vegetables are usually cropped Jerusalem artichokes, rhubarb—which retention. The ground must be very well for several years until they reach full is normally eaten as a dessert—and sea prepared before planting; dig over the maturity, and then they are propagated kale. The edible parts of perennial entire plot thoroughly (see pp.37–40) by cuttings or division to produce new, vegetables range from the young leaves, and incorporate a good deal of organic vigorous, healthy plants. Perennial shoots, stems, and the f lower buds matter (see pp.22–23). After planting, vegetables can also be increased from to underground tubers. Asparagus is add a good layer of organic mulch (see bought or home-saved seed (see p.61), widely popular for its delicious young pp.41–42) around the base of the stems but this method is much slower and shoots, known as spears, and is best to retain moisture and suppress weeds. the results are more variable. suited to continuous long-term production on a reasonably large scale. ROUTINE CARE The propagation method used Because perennial vegetables are long- (see pp.130–131) depends on the crop. This group of vegetables tends to term crops, routine care involves regular Dividing rootstocks is suitable for both need less intensive care than other weeding to remove competition for rhubarb and asparagus—although seed groups, because they are hardy and water and soil nutrients, keeping the raising is preferable for the latter. Divide more robust. Most may be grown plants healthy and strong by removing offsets to propagate globe artichokes and harvested for 3–4 years, while old foliage, and mulching annually with and cardoons; replant healthy tubers asparagus is more long-lived, cropping organic matter (see below). The crops will for Chinese and Jerusalem artichokes; for 15–20 years. Once they cease to be and take root cuttings for sea kale. productive they may be propagated or rejuvenated by the methods described Mulching perennial vegetables below, so bear in mind that they will semipermanently occupy a lot of space, which may be a drawback if you have only a small garden. ORNAMENTAL CROPS 12 3 Aside from the benefit of their edible 1In mid- to late fall, cut off the dead produce, these plants often have foliage, stems at the base, and pick off any f lowers, or architectural forms that dead or dying foliage (here of globe would make them worth growing artichoke ‘Purple Globe’). for their ornamental value alone. The stems of rhubarb glow bright pink or 2 Clear away any debris, and fork over scarlet; globe artichokes and cardoons the soil to loosen it. This aerates the have narrow, serrated, silver leaves soil and also enables moisture to pass and large, thistlelike f lowerheads; and through any old mulch and into the soil. asparagus and sea kale both possess delicate, ferny foliage. Such features 3Cover the soil around the plant with can liven up what might otherwise a 2–3in (5–8cm) layer of well-rotted be a rather dull vegetable patch. manure or compost, extending to about 18in (45cm) from the base of the plants. These crops can be used for Use a plank to define a neat edge. decorative purposes in an ornamental garden (see p.27) or as special feature plants in herbaceous or mixed borders. On the practical side, Jerusalem artichokes provide height at the back of a border, and may even be used as a windbreaker to protect other, more vulnerable plants from the elements.
130 VEGETABLES DIVISION OF ROOTSTOCKS Dividing mature rootstocks 1Gently uncover the top of the rhubarb rootstock to The rootstock, or crown, of a perennial Asparagus and rhubarb may be propagated expose the buds. Look for a side consists of the part of a mature plant by dividing their mature rootstocks into section with at least 1 healthy at ground level from which both the sections, or “sets,” each with a healthy bud. With a shovel, chop down stems and roots grow. This may be bud and roots, that will grow into a new through the rootstock to lifted when the plant is dormant in late plant. This is best done in late winter or separate the section. winter, or just as the buds begin to early spring. With asparagus (right), lift break in early spring, and divided into the rootstock and pry it apart with your 2 The new section may be several, smaller pieces, each with buds thumbs; if necessary, use a sharp knife divided further; each set and roots of their own, which are then to complete the job. With rhubarb (below), must have 1 good bud and replanted to form new, complete plants. use a shovel to cut through the rootstock. be as large as a small melon. For this procedure to be successful, you Replant the sections to grow on. Replant the sets with the bud need healthy rootstocks or the divisions just above the soil surface. may not grow or crop very well. Weak 12 or unhealthy rootstocks should be discarded. It is best to take the divisions setting in later. Take care not to damage Plant the divisions 12in (30cm) apart from around the edges of the rootstock, the buds or roots, and never allow the on top of the ridge, carefully spreading discarding the old, woody central part. roots to dry out before replanting. the roots so that they sit evenly on the This method works well for asparagus soil below. Cover with soil to leave just and rhubarb when the plants are at least For asparagus, dig a trench 12in the bud tips visible. Mulch the divisions 3–4 years old (see right). (30cm) wide and 8in (20cm) deep. with 2in (5cm) of manure to keep Work in well-rotted manure and top them moist; the resulting plants can For asparagus, carefully lift the entire off with 2in (5cm) of soil. Then make be harvested two years later. rootstock with a fork, and shake off any a 4in (10cm) ridge along the center. excess soil. Separate it into two or more For rhubarb, plant the divisions in sections, or “sets,” using your hands or Dividing tubers holes with the main bud just above the a sharp knife. With rhubarb, use a shovel Before planting, in spring, Jerusalem artichoke surface; planting too deeply, especially either to cut through the crown while it tubers that are larger than a hen’s egg should in heavy soil, can cause rotting of the is still in the ground, lifting the sections be cut into sections, at the joints, with individually, or to dig around and lift the a sharp knife. Each section should rootstock around the bud. Firm entire rootstock before cutting it into have a number of healthy buds, in the soil around the rootstock, sections, each of which should have at which should be uppermost but leave it loose on top to allow least one healthy bud. when planted. the rain to penetrate. Mulch Tease out the roots, and cut away any (see p.129), leaving a space just old ones that are damaged or diseased around the rootstock to allow with a sharp knife, to prevent rot from the shoots to be produced and to discourage slugs and snails from reaching the buds. Dividing globe artichoke offsets Cut tubers DIVISION OF OFFSETS In spring, choose a healthy sideshoot with 2–3 at joints leaves. Using a sharp knife, cut down into the Offsets are tiny plantlets rootstock of the parent plant to separate produced naturally by the the offset. Take care to preserve any roots, parent plant at the side of and trim off old stems to just above the leaves. the rootstock. These may be detached and replanted to form new plants. Offsets can be taken from established plants that
GROWING PERENNIAL VEGETABLES 131 were produced in the same way, so they Do not bury the growing point, or it top of each root cutting, so make will all be true to type. This method of will rot, wither, and die. Water in and a straight cut at the top—that is, the propagation is suitable for cardoons and cover with fleece (see p.48) to keep the end that was nearer the rootstock— globe artichokes. It is best carried out offset moist, warm, and protected from and an angled cut at the bottom. in the spring when the new shoots are desiccating winds. actively growing. Wait until the young Tie the cuttings carefully together in shoots around the edge of the plant have DIVISION OF TUBERS bundles of 5–6, with their straight ends started rooting into the soil, as this Chinese and Jerusalem artichokes aligned. Stand the bundles, angled makes establishment of the new plant are normally raised from tubers that are ends downward, in a box of moist much quicker and easier. simply replanted. Because the tubers of sand in a cool, frost-free shed. The Jerusalem artichokes grow much larger cuttings in the box should be covered In spring, select from the outside of than those of Chinese artichokes, just enough to leave the tips sticking out a mature plant a young, healthy shoot however, they may require dividing and to keep the roots moist. Store until with 2–3 leaves (see facing page). Scrape into smaller sections (see facing page) early spring when buds start to develop away the soil with a trowel so that you before replanting (see p.135). at the top of the cuttings (see below). can see the roots and the point where the offset is attached to the parent plant. ROOT CUTTINGS The cuttings are ready for planting Using a clean, sharp knife, cut the offset The best way to propagate sea kale is just as the buds begin to break; if away from the parent plant, together to use root cuttings, sometimes known they are allowed to develop too far, with a piece of root and if possible any as thongs, taken from established plants the cutting will use up too much of the new roots just starting on the offset. Fill (see below), although thongs may also energy needed for producing roots in the hole at the side of the parent plant be obtained through mail order. after planting. It is important to select and leave it to grow. Trim off the old the most suitable cuttings, and to stalks around the base of the offset to Select a healthy plant that is three remove all but the strongest bud from avoid rotting. Remove all but one of the or more years old and mark its position. the top of each one (see below), as this leaves to reduce unwanted moisture loss In late fall to early winter, when the will increase the chances of producing through the process of transpiration—the leaves have died down, check that robust, healthy new plants. evaporation of water from the leaves once the rootstock is free from rot and lift it it has carried nutrients from the roots. out of the ground with a fork or shovel, Using a dibber, plant out the cuttings taking care not to damage any of the 15in (38cm) apart in a well-prepared bed To replant, space the offsets 24in roots. Select a number of roots of about so that the buds are 1in (2.5cm) below (60cm) apart in rows 30in (75cm) apart. pencil thickness around the side of the the surface of the soil. As the plants Place each offset in a planting hole, fill rootstock and cut them from the parent develop, remove any flowering shoots so in around it with soil, and carefully firm plant. When making the cuttings, it that all the energy possible is channeled it in. The offset should be planted deeply is important to remember which is the into root production. It is also a good and firmly enough to remain upright. idea to apply a mulch (see p.129) in order to conserve as much moisture as possible. Taking root cuttings of sea kale Good cutting 12 3 Buds just 4 beginning to break Bad cutting Buds grown on too far 1Lift a healthy three-year-old plant, at the bottom, as before. Tie into bundles in late fall to early winter, and of 5–6 with twine, matching up the straight clean off any soil. Choose roots that are ends. Place the bundles, angled ends pencil-thick, and separate them by making down, in a box of sharp sand, and cover. a straight cut where they join the crown and an angled cut at the other end. 3Lift the cuttings in spring when the buds are starting to break. 2 Cut the severed roots into sections about 3–6in (8–15cm) long, using a 4 Rub off all the weaker buds with straight cut at the top and an angled one thumb and forefinger, leaving only the strongest, before planting the cuttings out.
132 VEGETABLES OBTAINING AN EARLY HARVEST Using a forcing jar to produce an early crop emerging stems to exclude light. Remove Some perennial vegetables, such as Crops such as sea kale and rhubarb the cover once the leaves reach the top rhubarb and sea kale, may be induced may be forced for early cropping. Place to reveal blanched stems. to crop earlier than they normally a forcing jar, or upturned pot, over the would by a process known as forcing. With rhubarb, plants require a period The purpose is to bring the plant use an upturned box, bucket, or large of cold, which varies according to the back into production earlier than flowerpot; cover the drainage hole with cultivar, to break dormancy before would occur naturally. This also a stone to keep out the light. The cover they are ready to force (see p.135). makes for sweeter-tasting and more needs to be at least 15in (38cm) high, When this point has been reached, in tender crops. You need to use plants and the stems will be ready to harvest midwinter, cover as for sea kale; you that have been in the ground for at in 23 months. To speed up the process, do not need to pack the cover with least two seasons; if forced too early, pack a thick layer of fresh horse manure manure. Shoots are produced 2–3 the plants suffer and only recover around the cover; the heat generated weeks earlier than normal, and they slowly when they are left to grow on. by the composting manure will warm are softer, more tender, and pinkish Either force them outdoors where they up the crown. When the stems are in color. Leave the stems to grow as are growing, or dig them up and force 4–8in (10–20cm) long, cut them with tall as the height of the cover before them under cover; if you do the latter, a piece of root attached. harvesting them (see above). the plants will have to be discarded after forcing because the energy of the roots will have been exhausted. FORCING OUTDOORS Sea kale is best forced outdoors. Between late fall and midwinter, when the crowns have died back, clear away the old leaves, which may be rotting, and cover the crown with 3in (8cm) of dry leaves, straw, or bracken to help raise the temperature. Then exclude all light from the crown by covering it up. For this you could use a traditional forcing jar (see above) with a removable lid, which can be opened up so that you can check on progress. Alternatively, FORCING UNDER COVER In fall, after the first frosts, either dig up the crowns to be forced, or lift and expose them to frost to break dormancy. Trim the roots, and plant into compost in large pots or boxes, at least 12in (30cm) deep. The tips should be just covered. Place a lid or some newspaper over each box to exclude the light; keep the compost moist. If stored in a cool room or greenhouse at 59–70°F (15–21°C) for sea kale and for rhubarb 49–59°F (7–15°C), they will be ready for harvest in a few weeks. Harvesting Chinese artichokes Harvesting globe artichokes HARVESTING When the foliage has begun to yellow, the When the largest head on the plant is plump Lift tubers of Chinese or Jerusalem tubers are ready to harvest. Lift the plant and its scales are green, soft, and just about artichokes with a fork (see far left), and with a fork, taking care not to damage any of to open out, cut off the head with a sharp cut globe artichokes just before they the tubers. Remove all tubers by the end of the knife. Allow any other heads to grow on to open (see left). For details of harvesting season, since this plant can become invasive. the same size before harvesting them. other perennial crops, see pp.133–135. These vegetables are best eaten fresh.
A–Z OF PERENNIAL VEGETABLES 133 A–Z OF PERENNIAL VEGETABLES Artichoke to three per plant and and apply a high-potash liquid feed (see pp.20–21). Artichokes are Cynara scolymus most vulnerable in their first year. In cold areas, earth up around the plants and cover SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER with 6in (15cm) straw or bracken over SOW/PLANT • winter; add f leece (see p.48) in severe weather. TRANSPLANT •• In warm areas, cover with double f leece in HARVEST frosty spells. • ■ Harvesting The smaller artichoke f lowers can be removed (see p.132) when they reach •• • 11⁄2in (4cm) in diameter, to encourage the terminal bud to grow to a good size. These The artichoke is a very decorative plant, with small buds can be eaten, but they are not as silvery foliage and large, thistlelike green or tasty as mature ones. Artichokes are ready purple f lowerheads. It grows 2–3ft (60–90cm) for harvesting usually in late spring or early tall, with a mature spread of 3ft (90cm). Each summer, when the heads are plump and the plant has a few f lower stalks with several small scales still soft and green and just about to f lower buds below the large terminal bud. open. If there are no secondary heads left, The sepals of the f lower bud, and the base of snap the stem off at the base; if there are larger buds, are edible. The plants will crop secondary heads on the stem, cut off the for 3–4 years. terminal bud together with a short length ■ Site and soil This crop requires shelter of stem. This stimulates secondary shoots, from winds, and sun, but must not be shaded which may yield a second crop; encourage by trees. If there are tree roots nearby, beware this by top-dressing with a general fertilizer of honey fungus (see p.256), which can spread and watering (see p.72). to the woody parts of artichokes. Avoid planting ■ Common problems As for cardoon. in frosty sites, since losses are likely in severe ■ Recommended cultivars winters (see p.11). Artichokes need a rich, well- ‘Green Globe’—the most widely available drained soil that is not too light, because they and easy to grow. Delicious and tender. cannot tolerate soil drying out in summer. You ‘Purple Globe’—similar to ‘Green Globe’. will need to prepare the site well (see pp.37–40) ‘Romanesco’—tight purple heads produced and incorporate plenty of organic matter into later in the season than ‘Green Globe’ but the soil to improve moisture retention. with a superior f lavor. ■ Sowing and planting Artichokes are usually raised from offsets planted in spring so that Asparagus the offspring are true to type. Select a healthy parent plant and take offsets (see pp.130–131), Asparagus officinalis preferably with roots. Plant the offsets in rows, just deep enough to stay upright. Water after SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER planting to settle the soil, then cover with f leece SOW/PLANT • • to keep the offsets moist, warm, and protected TRANSPLANT from desiccating winds. Aim to replant one- HARVEST • third of the plot each year for regular cropping. •• If you cannot obtain offsets, sow seed (see Asparagus is grown for its delicately f lavored pp.62–65) indoors in late winter at 59°F (15°C). young shoots, or spears. Most modern plants Prick out seedlings into 4in (10cm) pots and are all-male F1 cultivars that are much more grow on until you have good-sized plants vigorous than older, open-pollinated cultivars, to transplant in early summer. Seed can also and have the advantage of not producing be station-sown (see p.68) outdoors in early seed that can germinate haphazardly in the spring and the seedlings thinned. This method surrounding beds. Female cultivars do not gives rather small plants by fall that may not reproduce true to type and are of poorer vigor. survive the winter in cool regions. When Once established, plants should crop for 15–20 plants grown from seed are well-established, years, yielding 9–12 spears per crown. select the ones that produce good artichokes ■ Site and soil Asparagus needs a soil with for eating and use offsets from these to grow good drainage and a pH of 6.3–7.5 to thrive; more plants (see above). it can be grown in heavy soils in traditional raised beds (see pp.32–33) or in light, sandy soils PLANTING DEPTH 2in (5cm) on the f lat. Avoid frost pockets because the PLANT SPACING 30in (75cm) spears are tender and may be damaged by late ROW SPACING 3ft (90cm) frosts; asparagus also needs some shelter from winds (see pp.12–13). Always use fresh ground ■ Routine care Mulch (see p.129) the crop to keep disease problems from building up from to control weeds and keep the soil moist. Plants previous asparagus crops. Dig the soil deeply, in their first season will produce only a single head; remove it promptly to allow the plants to gain vigor. In their second season, if large heads are required, reduce the number of stems
134 VEGETABLES or even double dig it (see p.39), adding plenty ■ Common problems The main pests to affect trimming the lower end neatly and removing of organic matter. the crop are slugs and snails (see p.262), which the upper leaves. ■ Sowing and planting Asparagus can can be very damaging to young spears, and the ■ Common problems Slugs and snails be raised from seed, or young plants can be asparagus beetle (see p.251). Diseases to look out (see p.262) are the main problem, but black purchased. Asparagus seed is best sown singly for are violet root rot (see p.263), foot and root bean aphid (see p.252) can also attack the into trays (see p.65) and transplanted in early rots (see p.255), and fusarium wilt (see p.256). leaves and stem tips. Root aphid (see p.251) summer, at spacings shown below. The seedlings ■ Recommended cultivars can be a problem with sown plants. Artichoke often find it difficult to establish in hot, dry ‘Jersey Knight’—hybrid, robust, reliable. bud rot (see p.251) causes rotting of the heads weather. Alternatively, sow in an open seedbed ‘Mary Washington Improved’—emerald color, in wet weather, but there is no remedy. Cold, (see p.66) in early spring. Thin to 6in (15cm) superior flavor, reliabile, extra-long cutting period. wet winters may rot the plants. apart (see p.68). ‘Purple Passion’—Mild nutty f lavor when cooked. To save time, most asparagus is planted, rather Cardoon Chinese artichoke than sown. One-year-old crowns planted in early spring establish best: you can divide your Stachys affinis own rootstocks (see p.130), but there is much to be said for buying in crowns of a good stock. Cynara cardunculus SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER If dividing your own stock, the parent should PLANT • ••• be a healthy plant that is at least 3–4 years old, SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER HARVEST preferably an F1 hybrid, all-male cultivar. A male SOW •• ••• plant would have produced no female f lowers or TRANSPLANT The tubers of Chinese artichokes are 2in berries on the fern during the previous summer. HARVEST •• (5cm) long and 3⁄4in (2cm) wide, with small Make sure to remove seedlings if they occur. ridges that make them difficult to clean. Although similar to artichokes in appearance, They are, however, delicious: when cooked The crowns can be planted in single rows cardoons are grown for their stalks and thick straight from the ground, the translucent on raised beds, but double rows are best in f lat midribs, which are blanched just before f lesh has a nutty f lavor. The plants sprawl beds. To plant a row, dig a trench 12in (30cm) harvesting. Their architectural leaves make a bit like mint, but reach a height of only wide and 8in (20cm) deep. Work in well-rotted an attractive feature in a herbaceous border 18in (45cm). They should yield 20–30 tubers manure to the base, cover with 2in (5cm) soil, or the vegetable garden. They are frost-hardy per plant. No named cultivars are available. then make a 4in (10cm) high ridge along the and need a lot of space, and are generally replaced ■ Site and soil These plants need an open, center of the trench. Place the crowns on every 3–4 years. New plants can be raised from sunny site and do best on rich, light soils; the ridge, 12in (30cm) apart. Spread the roots collected seed. Expect to harvest up to 10 stems the heavier the soil, the more difficult the evenly and fill in with soil so that the bud tips from an established plant. No named cultivars tubers are to clean. Chinese artichokes also are just visible. Mulch the crowns with 2in are available. require plenty of moisture; the best soil is (5cm) of well-rotted manure to keep them ■ Site and soil Cardoons need a deep, rich one that has been improved for a previous moist. Leave 18in (45cm) between double soil and moist conditions with plenty of organic crop with plenty of organic matter. rows and stagger the plants. Allow for paths matter applied before planting. In temperate ■ Planting New plants must be raised from 3ft (90cm) in width between the beds. climates, they also need full sun. tubers, which can be bought from reputable ■ Sowing Sow the seed in trays (see p.65) suppliers, or taken from your own stock. Plant SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) in early to mid-spring and leave it to germinate directly in early spring, as soon as conditions PLANT SPACING 6in (15cm) at 50–59°F (10–15°C). If using home-collected permit, or sprout the tubers indoors in late ROW SPACING 12in (30cm) seed, do not try to separate the seed plumes; winter. To do this, settle the tubers in a seed simply spread them out on the compost surface tray of moist compost, then plant out as soon ■ Routine care Keep asparagus beds free and thin the resulting seedlings (see p.68). as the sprouts appear. Carefully place the tubers of weeds and mulched (see p.129) to avoid Harden off (see p.65) the young plants when upright in the drills, then cover over. soil compaction and bent spears and to retain they are 10in (25cm) tall and transplant into moisture. Top-dress with a general fertilizer trenches 18in (45cm) wide, to allow room for PLANTING DEPTH 11⁄2–3in (4–8cm) (see pp.20–23) in early spring and repeat earthing up. TUBER SPACING 6–12in (15–30cm) when cutting has finished. Be careful not ROW SPACING 18in (45cm) to overfeed because excess nitrogen makes Once you have some plants, you can increase for soft fern growth and can reduce yields. your stock by taking offsets (see pp.130–131). ■ Routine care Keep the bed free from Offsets are all true to type, so if you select the weeds and the plants well watered, especially Support the ferny top-growth with stakes best of your seed-raised plants you will have in mid- to late summer. When the plants are and twine to keep it from breaking off in the good stock for life. 12in (30cm) tall, earth up round the stems to wind and damaging the crown. Remove any a depth of about 3in (8cm). If the top-growth seedlings as they occur and any female plants SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) becomes very straggly, cut some of it back and to avoid seedlings in future years. When the PLANT SPACING 15in (38cm) before the leaves form a full canopy, mulch, foliage has died and yellowed in fall, cut ROW SPACING 4ft (1.2m) and apply a high-potash liquid feed (see pp.20– it down to 1in (2.5cm) above the ground. 21). Remove the f lowers as they appear, to ■ Harvesting Normally asparagus spears are ■ Routine care When the plants are 12in encourage tuber production. not harvested until the plants have been in the (30cm) tall, stake with 2ft (60cm) slender ■ Harvesting Begin harvesting tubers ground for two years, to allow for good crops stakes and keep well watered throughout when the foliage dies back. The tubers shrivel in future years. In the third year, harvest from the growing season. The plants are ready to very quickly, so leave them in the soil until mid-spring for six weeks, and in subsequent blanch in late summer or early fall. Gather you need them. It is easier to lift tubers in years for eight weeks. Use an asparagus knife— the leaves together at the top of each plant, frosty weather if the soil has been protected which has a forked blade for cutting spears tie with soft string, wind brown paper around with straw, bracken, or f leece (see p.48). singly—and carefully cut the spears 1in (2.5cm) the stems from base to top, and pack soil ■ Common problems Slugs and snails (see below the soil when they are 5–7in (13–18cm) around the plants to keep out the light. p.262) may attack young plants. Root aphid tall. To avoid wastage, you will need to harvest ■ Harvesting About eight weeks after (see p.261) may sometimes infest the soil. every 2–3 days in warm weather or every 5–7 blanching, dig the plants up and remove the days in cold weather. wrappings. Prepare the stems for the table by
A–Z OF PERENNIAL VEGETABLES 135 Jerusalem a dessert, often in pies and crumbles. It requires ‘Cawood Delight’—keeps its texture well artichoke a cold period to break its dormancy (see below), when cooked and has a brilliant red stain. and is suitable for forcing (see p.132). When ‘Crimsom Red’—Sweet, yet agreeably tart. Helianthus tuberosus forcing is finished, do not harvest from the same Produces ample yields of pleasingly plump, crown; leave it to replenish its energy for the crimson stalks. SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER rest of the season. Plants should yield 10–30lb per ‘Victoria’—late type, heavy-yielding, grown PLANT ••• • 10ft (4.5–13.5kg per 3m) row. The flavor varies from seed and sets. HARVEST in sweetness, depending on the age of the stems. ••• ■ Site and soil Choose an open site with Sea kale moist but free-draining soil, since rhubarb does This hardy relative of the sunf lower is grown not like to be waterlogged in winter; avoid frost Crambe maritima for its tubers, which are usually cooked but pockets as the stems are susceptible to frost. occasionally eaten raw. The plants can grow ■ Sowing and planting Rhubarb does not SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER 10ft (3m) or more in height, and may be used always come true from seed, so to obtain the SOW/PLANT •• as a screen or windbreak if planted 12in (30cm) best results it is advisable to divide rootstocks TRANSPLANT apart in rows 2–3 deep; allow 3ft (90cm) between into “sets” (see p.130) and replant these. This HARVEST • the rows. They are very vigorous, and should may be done at any time from mid-fall ••• yield 10–12 tubers per plant. to early spring. If seed is used, it is best sown ■ Site and soil Jerusalem artichokes will grow in trays (see p.65) in late winter and planted Sea kale is a very hardy perennial vegetable on a wide range of soils, including heavy ones, out in late spring, or sown thinly in a seedbed grown for its uniquely f lavored stems, which in either sunny or shady positions. (see p.66) and thinned to 6in (15cm) apart (see are eaten raw. The young f lowerheads and very ■ Planting Plant tubers, either bought from a p.68). Plant sets a minimum of 30in (75cm) young leaves can also be eaten raw, and the supermarket or saved from your own stock, that apart; the ideal is 3ft (90cm). leaf midribs cooked. An established plant can are no bigger than a hen’s egg, dividing them if be 3ft (90cm) in diameter with stems up to necessary (see pp.130–131). Check first that they SOWING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) 2ft (60cm) tall. Each plant yields 8–10 stems. are showing no signs of disease. SEED SPACING sow thinly; thin to 6in (15cm) Sea kale is usually propagated from root cuttings PLANT SPACING 30–36in (75–90cm) or “thongs” (see p.131). PLANTING DEPTH 4–6in (10–15cm) ROW SPACING 12in (30cm) ■ Site and soil Sea kale needs an open, TUBER SPACING 12in (30cm) sunny site and a deep, rich, sandy soil, with a ROW SPACING 12in (30cm) ■ Routine care Rhubarb must be kept free pH of 7 (see p.18); lighten heavy soils by adding of weeds. Apply a mulch (see p.129) to hold in grit or sand. It is closely related to brassicas, so ■ Routine care Earth up the stems to moisture, but do not bury the crown as it will occasionally suffers from clubroot (see p.254). stabilize them when they are 12in (30cm) tall, rot. Prevent neighboring crowns from smothering ■ Sowing and planting Plant thongs (see by drawing soil up to a depth of 6in (15cm). In each other by removing yellowing leaves. Top- p.131) in early spring. Raising plants from midsummer, remove the f lowerheads and cut dress with sulfate ammonia in summer to feed seed is an alternative if you cannot obtain back the stems to 5–6ft (1.5–2m) so the plants’ the crown. Water regularly to keep it moist and thongs. Scrape the corky coverings from the energy is concentrated into the tubers. Keep actively growing until fall. seeds with your nails; if not removed, these the plants moist to get better-shaped tubers, will inhibit germination. and provide supports (see p.72). When the leaves Each rhubarb cultivar requires a certain begin to yellow in fall, cut back the stems number of “cold units” before it will start to Sow thinly in seed trays from late winter to 3in (8cm) above ground level. Lay them grow. In commercial production these cold (see p.64) at 45–50°F (7–10°C) and prick out over the plant to keep the soil warm and ease units are calculated by daily monitoring of seedlings into 4in (10cm) pots (see p.64). Plant lifting of the tubers in frosty weather. the temperature of the soil and air, but this is out the seedlings in early summer (see pp.70–71) ■ Harvesting Harvest the tubers as required not practicable in the home vegetable garden. when they are 3–4in (8–10cm) tall. Alternatively, (see p.132), making sure to remove every one, Instead, when the top-growth has died back sow thinly in drills (see pp.66–67) in spring, however small, by the end of the season, since in fall, simply remove the dead leaves to expose and thin out the seedlings (see p.68) later. any part left could grow and become invasive. the crowns to frost. ■ Common problems Sclerotinia, a fungal ■ Harvesting Do not harvest in the first year, PLANTING DEPTH 1in (2.5cm) rot (see p.262), may damage stems up to 12in since this will reduce vigor. In the second (30cm) above soil level. Slugs and snails (see year, lightly pull up some of the stems. Take SEED SPACING sow thinly; thin to 6in (15cm) p.262) attack both tubers and foliage. Root around one-third to a half of the stems each aphid (see p.261) is a less common problem. time, and leave some to keep the plant in active PLANT SPACING 15in (38cm) ■ Recommended cultivars growth. If stripped completely, it will take ‘Dwarf Sunray’—crisp and tender, no need longer to recover. Take hold of the stalk to ROW SPACING 15in (38cm) to peel. be pulled, which should be at least 9–12in ‘Fuseau’—long, smooth-skinned tubers. (23–30cm) long, and push your thumb between ■ Routine care Remove any f lowering shoots the stalk and the next one, easing it out of ground to concentrate energy into the stems. In spring, Rhubarb to prevent it from snapping off or pulling out mulch (see p.129) with well-rotted manure, or another stalk that is not ready. Do not pull too top-dress with low-nitrogen fertilizer or liquid Rheum x hybridum, syn. R. cultorum late in the season, since the leaves have to feed feed. When the plants die back in fall, follow the crown buds for the following year. Harvest the procedure for forcing outdoors (see p.132) SEASON SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER forced stems as soon as they are ready (see p.132). to blanch the stems. SOW/PLANT ••• ■ Common problems Aphids (see p.251), slugs ■ Harvesting Cut the forced stems when they TRANSPLANT •• •• and snails (see p.262), crown rot (see p.254), honey are ready (see p.132). Stop cutting in late spring HARVEST fungus (see p.256), fungal leaf spots (see p.257), to allow the plant to regenerate. • and viruses (see p.263) may cause problems. ■ Common problems Flea beetle (see p.255) ■ Recommended cultivars may attack seedlings. Clubroot (see p.254) can ••••• ‘Bakers All Season’—crops all year round if be a problem, so use a long rotation (see p.31) there is no frost. and avoid planting after brassicas. Rhubarb is an attractive hardy perennial with ■ Recommended cultivars pink, red, and greenish leafstalks that are used as ‘Sea kale Angers’—the most vigorous cultivar, with good f lavor as long as it is properly blanched and forced.
CULINARY HERBS Just as fresh-picked herbs in the kitchen add zest and color to dishes, so herb plants have decorative qualities that enhance both the ornamental and kitchen garden. Many are attractive, with the bonus of flowers and aromatic foliage. Statuesque, feathery herbs such as dill and fennel deserve a place in any border; sun-loving, creeping herbs such as thymes are ideal for softening the edges of paths and paving. Pots spilling over with mints, sweet marjoram, and tender basil clustered by the kitchen door give an oranamental-garden feel to any plot, but herbs have a place in formal design, too. A neatly trimmed bay tree in a decorative container would make a perfect focal point in a pattern of beds neatly edged with parsley or rows of chives. Herbs, among the easiest edible plants to grow and to propagate, can be available to pick fresh, with a flavor beyond compare, all year round. They bring with them a rich tradition of varied use in the home that is fascinating to explore.
138 CULINARY HERBS Growing culinary herbs In general use, the word “herb” as do carrots and parsnips, and produce WHERE TO GROW HERBS refers to a range of annual, biennial, attractive flat heads of small flowers. All perennial, and shrubby plants that are of these are not only useful as culinary Herbs are usually required in limited grown for culinary or medicinal use. herbs, but also decorative: there are quantity, and kitchen needs can easily Culinary herbs are sometimes called many with attractive leaf and flower be met by a few plants in a small plot pot herbs. The word also has a more variations. A few herbs, including sweet in the open ground or in containers. specific botanical usage, where it means Cicely and horseradish, are valued for any nonwoody plant; strictly, a plant the culinary use of their roots. A herb plot need not take up much without persistent above-ground parts, space in the garden. Select a site that most commonly a perennial. One advantage of growing herbs receives plenty of sunshine, because is that they are much less demanding most culinary herbs originate in warm GROWING CULINARY HERBS than most vegetable crops. Although climates. Ensure that the site is well- Almost all the plants that we grow in the annual herbs need raising from drained, and avoid areas where there has a culinary herb garden (see pp.141–145 seed each year, most are easy and need been heavy dressing of organic matter, for those covered here) produce aromatic no additional heat. Growing culinary since rich soil is likely to promote the oils in their leaves, stems, and in some herbs is made even easier by the wide growth of lush foliage, which may be cases in their seeds. This group of herbs availability of seed and plants now less intense in flavor than if plants are includes basil, marjoram, mint, sage, offered. Establish just a few herbs to grown in poorer conditions. and thyme, which are all members begin with, choosing the plants that of the nettle family, the Lamiaceae. are most frequently used, for example, Provide shelter (see pp.12–13) from Chervil, cilantro, dill, fennel, and basil, chives, fennel, mint, parsley, and wind around the herb plot: this will parsley, other popular herbs, are thyme. Experiment with other kinds create a warmer microclimate and raise umbellifers belonging to the Apiaceae, of herbs and their cultivars as the soil temperature. Herbs such as lavender garden and your experience develop. and rosemary can be grown as low protective hedges to create this shelter. Plant herbs in close proximity to the Planting a herb trough 1Half-fill a 6in (15cm) deep trough with 2 Confine a plant with spreading roots, 3Before planting chives in the trough, compost. Plant annual herbs (here such as mint, by potting it first in a trim the leaves back to about 6in parsley) raised from seed. Lift and divide small plastic pot. Sit the pot in the trough (15cm) to promote fresh growth. Cut back perennial herbs and plant the best piece. so the rim is level with that of the trough. any straggly top-growth on other herbs. 4 Take care to leave enough space 5Position the between plants to allow them to grow planted trough for some time. Fill in with compost to within in a well-lit place 1in (2.5cm) of the rim; firm well. indoors, such as a kitchen windowsill, and keep it well watered. Harvest the herbs as required.
GROWING CULINARY HERBS 139 kitchen door, if at all possible, because Confining mint horseradish and mint—should be the shortest walk encourages the most Mint will spread invasively in the open ground: grown within a barrier, such as a large frequent use, especially in poor weather. planting it in a pot sunk into the ground keeps plant pot or bottomless bucket sunk it within bounds. Some gardeners also claim into the ground, and often replanted. GROWING HERBS IN CONTAINERS that the distinctive flavors of different mints It is also possible to grow a few herbs in merge if the roots mix, and pots prevent this. It is worth considering laying down a windowbox (see facing page) or a large landscape fabric over the area to be pot or growing bag on any paved area. as a kitchen garden, including clearing planted and covering it with medium- A particular advantage of container weeds (see pp.49–50) and ensuring free sized stone chippings (see p.34), which growing is that the plants may be taken drainage (see p.16) and suitable levels serve both to anchor and conceal under cover to avoid frost damage or to of lime (see pp.18–19). Do not, however, the fabric. Pull back the chippings at the keep up their growth through winter. incorporate organic matter. On heavier planting stations and make cross-cuts soils, dig in gravel to improve aeration in the fabric: plant the herbs firmly Choose a large container with a and drainage. Plant herbs in spring, and through the cuts before replacing the diameter of at least 12in (30cm) for keep young plants well watered in stone chip mulch. This method will herb growing. Terra-cotta or ceramic the time immediately after planting suppress weed growth, maintain a pots are more stable and attractive than (see pp.70–71 for more on planting out). suitable soil temperature in summer and plastic, and strawberry pots planted winter, and also conserve soil moisture. with herbs make fine garden features. The majority of perennial herbs can be bought container-grown. To plant It is important to ensure that the soil It is essential for container growing these out, first water the container well. is thoroughly watered before covering (see pp.35–36) to ensure that enough Dig the planting hole a little larger it, and from time to time check that the water is available at all times, but avoid than the pot, and fork over the soil at soil remains adequately moist—it may waterlogging, especially for herbs. Make the bottom to encourage rooting. Each be worth laying irrigation hoses (see the compost as light-textured as possible herb should be planted to the same pp.54) under the fabric at the outset. by adding 20 percent grit by volume depth as it was in the pot, and firmed to garden soil or a proprietary soil-less in well. Plants that spread by invasive ROUTINE CARE compost, and ensure that the container underground parts—in particular, Keep herb plants productive by regular has plenty of drainage holes. trimming: if not trimmed, some will Pinching out bushy herbs become straggly, unattractive, and HERBS AS DECORATIVE PLANTINGS Bay, rosemary, and (as here) sage can be kept woody, producing fewer new shoots The ornamental qualities of herbs— compact by frequent trimming of new growth. suitable for culinary use. Inspect herb from the neat flowerheads of chives Pinch out between thumb and forefinger the plants regularly, and deal with weeds and the variegated leaves of some sages top 2 or 3 leaves at the growing tips. (see pp.49–50) and pests or diseases (see to the shapes of trained bay trees and pp.51–52) as necessary. the graceful leaves of fennel—mean that many can be included in decorative Keep an eye on those plants that may borders. Large herbs, especially those become troublesome weeds through self- that do not need so much sun, such as seeding, for example, borage and fennel angelica (Angelica archangelica), chervil, (see p.143). Self-seeding can be reduced or and lovage, mix well in informal prevented by removing the flowerheads woodland or hedgerow plantings. Formal plans can be created by planting Cutting herbs for drying herbs in patterns such as the traditional Regular harvesting throughout the growing knot gardens. Thyme is especially season keeps herbs compact and productive. suitable, similarly chamomile Choose unblemished stems about 6in (15cm) (Chamaemelum nobile), marjoram, and long and dry them for winter use. sage: all of these have golden foliage forms, and sage and thyme have other colorful cultivars. A popular practice is to plant an herb garden in the shape of a wagon wheel, with each section planted with a single species. Quite small areas between paving stones can be similarly planted, perhaps to brighten up a utility area close to the house. PREPARING AN HERB GARDEN Making an herb garden in the open ground requires the same preparation
140 CULINARY HERBS before they set seed. Periodic renewal excessive drought and by trimming the or the herbs used after thawing the ice by propagation (see below) will keep the plants regularly (see p.139). Fresh supplies cubes in a kitchen strainer. Herbs can herbs vigorous and productive. of many annual herbs can be extended also be used to make f lavored oil or by making successional sowings later vinegar: steep for a couple of weeks in PROPAGATING HERBS in the growing season (see p.69), or a warm place, shaking regularly, then Most of the culinary herb plants can by dividing perennial plants late in the strain off the liquid into a clean bottle. be propagated at home. Many herbs, season and potting up some divisions especially those grown as annuals, can to take indoors over winter. WIDENING YOUR RANGE be raised from seed (see individual crops, Almost all of the herbs mentioned pp.142–145). Shrubby herbs, such as Outdoors, the main growing season here are included in the following rosemary, can be propagated by of some herbs, such as parsley, can be list of those that are most commonly cuttings; those with creeping roots, like extended by covering the plants with grown. The potential choice is much mint, by root cuttings; and others, such cloches (see p.46) for protection before wider, however, and there are many as sweet Cicely, by division (see below). the weather deteriorates. other plants not necessarily thought Some of these methods require practice. of as herbs that nonetheless have Cutting and preserving herbs ensures interesting culinary uses. You will also need a protected area continuing supplies through the winter, (see pp.43–48) in which to start off although with some loss of the original Some ornamental garden plants rate both cuttings and seed-raised herbs intensity of aroma or flavor. Air drying equally as culinary or medicinal herbs, (see pp.60–65). If only small numbers in a warm, dark pantry, by hanging including marigold (Calendula officinalis) of perennial herbs are needed, it may herbs in bunches or laying them out on used for the yellow color of its petals, be worth simply buying container- trays, is well tried, and the slow process which brighten rice and soups; lavender grown plants, widely available in preserves quality of flavor better than (Lavandula angustifolia), the f lowers of reputable nurseries or garden centers. rapid microwave drying. which may be added to jams; bergamot (Monarda didyma), used for the orange MAINTAINING SUPPLIES Freezing is possible in many cases: f lavor of its leaves in teas and the Steady supplies of herbs can be kept either freeze in sealed plastic bags or f lowers in salads; and cotton lavender up through the growing season by fill compartments of an ice-cube tray (Santolina chamaecyparissus), which has ensuring that the plants do not suffer with chopped herbs and top off with anti-inf lammatory properties. water before freezing it. The ice cubes can be added to food during cooking How to propagate culinary herbs ▶ Growing from seed Tender annual herbs, like these young purple-leaved and green-leaved basils, are best raised from seed sown in modules and started under cover. Plant them out in early summer, either into beds or into containers. ▼ Taking softwood cuttings Trim the base of each piece (here of lemon balm) to just below a leaf joint to create a 3–4in (8–10cm) cutting. Remove all leaves below the top 2 or 3. Insert the cuttings into a mix of equal parts peat substitute or peat and grit or perlite. ▲ Dividing shrubby perennial herbs Lift a vigorous, mature plant (here thyme) in late summer. Shake off as much loose soil as possible and remove any dead or damaged parts. Using clean, sharp pruners, divide the plant into smaller pieces, each with strong roots and top-growth; replant immediately. Softwood cuttings ◀ Taking root or rhizome cuttings are taken from tips Divide roots (here mint) into 11⁄2–3in (4–8cm) of new shoots sections with at least one growth bud. Make a straight cut at the top end and an angled cut at the other. Insert vertically, angled end down, in cuttings compost, to root in 3–4 weeks.
VISUAL INDEX OF CULINARY HERBS 141 Visual index of culinary herbs Use this index to locate details of individual herb crops. Allium schoenoprasum p.142 Anethum graveolens p.143 Anthriscus cerefolium p.142 Armoracia rusticana p.143 Chives Dill p.143 Chervil Horseradish p.143 Artemisia dracunculus p.145 Coriandrum sativum Cymbopogon p.143 Foeniculum vulgare citratus Tarragon Cilantro Lemon grass p.143 Laurus nobilis p.142 Levisticum officinale p.144 Melissa officinalis Bay Lovage Lemon balm Fennel Mentha species p.144 Myrrhis odorata p.145 Ocimum basilicum p.142 Origanum species p.144 Sweet Cicely Basil Petroselinum crispum p.144 Rosmarinus officinalis p.144 Mint Parsley Rosemary Marjoram, oregano Salvia officinalis p.145 Satureja species p.145 Thymus species p.145 OTHER HERBS Sage Savory Thyme Allium tuberosum...........................p.143 Chinese, garlic chives Chenopodium bonus-henricus...........p.143 Good King Henry Helianthus annuus.........................p.145 Sunf lower Rumex species..............................p.145 Sorrel
142 CULINARY HERBS A-Z OF CULINARY HERBS Basil ■ Forms and cultivars There are leaf shape and color variants, but do not confuse sweet Ocimum basilicum bay—also called bay tree, bay laurel, or true laurel—with cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) This is a strongly aromatic herb with leaves or the Portuguese laurel (P. lusitanica), both of producing a clovelike f lavor commonly which are inedible and often used in hedging. used in culinary dishes, especially with tomatoes. Common or sweet basil has oval, Chervil bright-green leaves and whorls of small, white f lowers from summer. It originates in tropical Anthriscus cerefolium Asia, so should be grown as a tender annual, and belongs to the Lamiaceae family, along Chervil is used in cooking, particularly as with mint and sage (see pp.144–145). an ingredient of fines herbes, for its delicate ■ Cultivation Grow in a sheltered, reliably aniseed f lavor. A hardy annual growing up to warm position in full sun: basil often does 2ft (60cm), it is decorative, but its tendency best in a greenhouse or indoors on a sunny to self-seed prolifically can become a nuisance. windowsill. Sow seed under cover (see pp.62– The leaves have some resemblance to parsley 65) in early to mid-spring, and harden off (see p.144), to which chervil is related. young potted-on plants for setting out 1ft ■ Cultivation This herb does best in partial (30cm) apart when risk of frost is past. Supplies shade in light, but moisture-retentive and can be maintained into winter from midsummer relatively rich, soil: it tends to bolt and run sowings grown on in containers and kept in to seed in full sun and dry soil. Sow chervil full light indoors. Pinch out the growing tips direct (see pp.66–69) in early to mid-spring; continually as the plants develop (see p.139) plants can also be successfully raised in trays to promote a bushy habit. (see p.62). Germination may take three weeks, ■ Harvesting and storage Basil cannot be and established seedlings should be thinned frozen or dried; leaves can be stored in oil. to 6in (15cm) apart. ■ Forms and cultivars There are many forms including bush, compact, and low-growing A repeat sowing in late summer will provide kinds, and a wide range of leaf forms and aromas, plants for use over the fall and winter; although such as ‘Cinnamon’. Those with colored leaves, chervil will survive outdoors over this period, such as ‘Purple Ruff les’, are decorative, but better quality is maintained where plants are are less intensely f lavored. kept under cover (see pp.43–48). Water thoroughly in dry spells, and remove some of Bay the f lowerheads, leaving only a proportion of them to self-seed. Laurus nobilis ■ Harvesting and storage Chervil grows quite fast, and young leaves can be harvested The tough, aromatic leaves of bay are used only nine weeks after sowing. Pick young outer variously in cooking, in particular as a basic leaves for the best f lavor, especially for use as ingredient of bouquet garni. Bay originates a salad garnish or in egg dishes. Chervil leaves from the Mediterranean region. It is a small, are better frozen than dried (see p.140). tender, evergreen tree or shrub, naturally growing to at least 15ft (5m) tall. Cream Chives f lowers are borne in clusters in spring. ■ Cultivation Bay is unreliably hardy: the Allium schoenoprasum leaves are susceptible to cold winds, although plants with aerial parts severely damaged by Chives are grown for their distinctive f lavor cold may produce new basal growth. Grow when finely chopped as a garnish for a wide bay in a large container (see pp.35–36) to range of prepared dishes, especially salads. allow it to be brought under cover during A hardy perennial member of the onion cold weather, and restrict its size by trimming family, chives have the general appearance of with pruners into decorative shapes such as cones, salad onions, but are clump-forming, usually pyramids, or as standard mop-heads. Position up to 10in (25cm) tall. They bear attractive containers in a sunny place sheltered from mauve f lowerheads in summer, which may strong winds to keep from scorching the leaves. also be used as a salad garnish but more Propagation from ripe heel cuttings, layers, importantly make the plants very decorative or seed is not easy: it may be best to buy a additions to the garden. well-grown plant. Grow bay in a fertile, ■ Cultivation Choose a situation in full sun loam-based compost, and water and feed and keep the plants well watered. Sow seed container-grown plants regularly. in plugs or larger trays (see pp.62–65) at 64ºF ■ Harvesting and storage Bay leaves are (18ºC) in early or mid-spring, and plant out best used fresh, but can be dried (see p.140). in groups of three at 9in (23cm) stations. Lift and divide clumps (see p.140) in the fall every
A-Z OF CULINARY HERBS 143 three years, or resow or transplant self-sown Do not grow dill near fennel, since the Horseradish plants. Chives die back during winter. Early plants will hybridize, losing their distinctive leaf production can be encouraged by covering f lavors. Sow seed in situ (see pp.66–69), Armoracia rusticana with a cloche in spring, or potted clumps because dill is not amenable to being can also be kept in growth in a greenhouse transplanted. Make successional sowings The white-f leshed and pungent roots of (see pp.43–48). from spring through to midsummer in horseradish are used to make a hot-f lavored ■ Harvesting Remove the f lowers and harvest rows 2ft (60cm) apart, and thin the plants sauce traditionally served with roast beef, and regularly for a supply of young leaves, cutting to 6in (15cm) stations. also in coleslaw. It is a hardy perennial, closely the leaves close to ground level. Chives are best ■ Harvesting and storage Pick young leaves related to the brassicas (see pp.76–81) with basal, used fresh. before f lowering; they can be dried, but are bright green leaves. The roots are strong, f leshy ■ Forms and cultivars There are many best fresh. Harvest seeds as they turn brown. or woody, and branching. They establish cultivars available, including ‘Black Isle Blush’ tenaciously, and it can become an invasive weed and ‘Pink Perfection’. Fennel if not carefully controlled. Horseradish has a long history as a medicinal and culinary herb Chinese chives Foeniculum vulgare and its widespread use has resulted in its natural establishment in uncultivated areas. Allium tuberosum Fennel provides aniseed-f lavored foliage ■ Cultivation Plant in rich, well-drained soil for chopping and stems for peeling, as well in sun or partial shade. Horseradish can be The leaves of Chinese, or garlic, chives are as seeds, to use as a f lavoring for salads and raised from seed, but the best propagation cut as for other chives (see above), but they can meat and fish dishes. A hardy perennial with method is to drop 6in (15cm) root cuttings be blanched for a milder f lavor. The plant has attractive, fine, feathery, green or bronze foliage in spring into dibbled holes spaced 2ft (60cm) a rhizomatous stem, f lat, garlic-f lavored leaves on stems up to 5ft (1.5m) tall, and bearing f lat- apart. Horseradish will grow whichever way up to 20in (50cm) tall, and white f lowers. headed clusters of yellow f lowers, fennel is a up the root pieces are put in the ground. ■ Cultivation As for chives (see above). Blanch particularly decorative plant. Do not confuse ■ Harvesting and storage Lift the plant to leaves by placing an upturned container over this herb with Florence fennel, Foeniculum harvest its roots in fall. To ensure that horseradish young developing shoots to exclude light. vulgare var. azoricum, which is an annual vegetable does not spread within the garden, carefully lift ■ Harvesting As for chives (see above). Harvest grown for its swollen, aniseed-f lavored leaf-stem all plants, not just the ones wanted for harvest, blanched leaves after 4–6 weeks once they are bases (see p.122). and store the roots in bundles in moist sand, pale and yellowed. ■ Cultivation Choose a site with well-drained replanting them in spring when new shoots soil in full sun. Do not grow it near dill, appear on them. Cilantro since the plants hybridize. Sow seed in situ outdoors after the risk of frost has passed, Lemon balm Coriandrum sativum thinning to 18–24in (45–60cm) apart. Plants may also be raised from indoor sowings Melissa officinalis Grown for the curry f lavor of its lower, lobed potted up into trays, or by dividing clumps leaves and seeds, used especially in Asian dishes, (see p.140) in the spring. To ensure a regular Grown for its lemon-scented leaves, which are cilantro is also sometimes used like a cut-and- supply of young leaves, remove developing used in a range of dishes and tea infusions, lemon come-again salad (see p.102). A hardy annual f lowerheads and cut the plants back during balm is a hardy perennial that can grow up to relative of parsley (see p.144), it grows up to the season to a height of 12in (30cm). Fennel 5ft (1.5m) in suitable conditions. 18in (45cm) tall in the f lowering phase, with self-seeds freely on many sites and can become ■ Cultivation Lemon balm is quite vigorous; heads of small white f lowers. a nuisance. it will grow in a range of soil types and is tolerant ■ Cultivation Grow in well-drained soil, but ■ Harvesting and storage Pick leaves and of drought. Propagate by sowing seed in situ keep seedlings moist or they may bolt. Plants stems throughout the growing season. Unripe in spring (see pp.66–69), by taking softwood grown for leaves can be grown in partial shade; for seeds can be used fresh, ripe seeds dried. cuttings (see p.140) in spring, or by dividing seeds, choose a sunny site. Sow in succession from ■ Forms and cultivars The attractive clumps in the spring or fall (see p.140). early spring to late summer in situ (see pp.66–69) in bronze-leaved ‘Purpureum’ is slightly hardier ■ Harvesting and storage Lemon balm rows 12in (30cm) apart, and thin to 6in (15cm) than the species. should be regularly cut back (see p.139) in stations. Leaves for winter use can be obtained order to maintain leaves with a strong aroma from fall sowings kept under cover (see pp.43–48), Good King Henry and prevent the plant from becoming straggly. but remember that the plants can produce an The leaves can be dried. unpleasant odor in enclosed spaces. Chenopodium bonus-henricus ■ Forms and cultivars A yellow-leaved type ■ Harvesting and storage Pick leaves when is available. Do not confuse lemon balm with young and use fresh or frozen (see p.140). Seeds Cultivated for its asparagus-f lavored shoots and lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) which is an can be gathered when ripe and stored. young leaves, which add interest to salads, Good attractive, half-hardy shrub that in its natural King Henry is a herbaceous perennial, growing surroundings can reach a height of 10ft (3m). Dill up to 30in (75cm) tall. ■ Cultivation Best-quality shoots, or spears, Lemon grass Anethum graveolens are produced on moist, fertile sites, and Good King Henry does well in relatively shady Cymbopogon citratus Dill is grown for the mild, distinctive flavor positions. Sow seed during spring under cover of its leaves, used in a range of dishes from soups (see pp.62–65) or in situ (see pp.66–69), for A strongly lemon-scented, tender perennial to salads. Seeds are added to pickling vinegars. planting out or thinning to 15in (38cm) stations. grass, this is used extensively as a grated or It is a decorative annual, up to 4ft (1.2m), with flat Established plants can also be propagated by chopped food f lavoring in Asian cuisine. heads of yellow flowers, much resembling fennel, division in spring (see p.140). Lemon grass produces strong, often stakelike to which it is related. ■ Harvesting Spears can be harvested for stems, and is capable of reaching over 5ft ■ Cultivation Dill does best in moist, fertile eating fresh from the second year by severing (1.5m) in favorable conditions. The leaves soil, otherwise plants bolt early in hot weather. them just below the soil surface. are blue-green in color and the f lowers are
144 CULINARY HERBS attractive, although these are not often the plants trimmed, cutting dead stems hard ■ Cultivation Parsley does best on fertile, produced in cultivation. All parts of the plant back. Sweet marjoram is raised from spring- moisture-retentive soil, and is tolerant of are lemon-scented. sown seed under cover (see pp.62–65). partly shaded or sunny sites. The main ■ Cultivation Lemon grass originates in warm Germination is erratic, over several weeks. production period is from early summer temperate regions, and needs a moderately Established plants should be set out at 6–8in through to fall. The most reliable method humid atmosphere and a minimum temperature (15–20cm) stations. of raising early plants is to sow in plugs or larger of 55ºF (13ºC). In most regions, this means ■ Harvesting and storage Pick leaves just trays under cover (see pp.62–65). Parsley is slow growing it in large containers of fertile, before the f lower buds open and use fresh, to germinate and may take several weeks moisture-retaining compost in a greenhouse or frozen, or dried (see p.140). to appear. Set out hardened-off plants with the similarly protected environment (see pp.43–48). ■ Forms and cultivars There are numerous minimum of root disturbance at 9in (23cm) Propagate by division or from seed (see p.140). forms, many making attractive garden plants stations. Plants develop quite slowly and the Bought stems with a little root left on them because of their leaf or f lower colors. soil must be kept moist. may root if potted up and stood on a heated propagating tray. Mint Successional sowings can be made outdoors ■ Harvesting and storage Cut stems at (see pp.66–69) in drills 1⁄2in (1cm) deep in rows ground level at any time and use the lower Mentha species 18in (45cm) apart. Thin the seedlings to 9in 3–4in (8–10cm) of the stems. (23cm) spacings. This system works well for The culinary use of mint is long established: sowings made from summer onward. Be Lovage leaves are chopped to use in sauces, added to sure that the seed is sown into moist soil. salads and drinks, cooked with vegetables, or Levisticum officinale used whole as garnishes. The mints comprise Remove f lowerheads to prolong the useful a large group of creeping perennials, with life of the plants. Parsley foliage dies back in Lovage leaves and shoots are celery- or yeast- many and varied forms, all characterized by late fall on the majority of sites; supplies can be f lavored; they are added to salads and used to highly aromatic foliage and pinkish f lowers. prolonged by covering the plants with a cloche f lavor soups and stock, savory or sweet dishes, ■ Cultivation Mints have an invasive habit (see p.46) or by container growing (see pp.138– cold drinks, and herb teas. Blanched shoots can and they can be troublesome weeds if allowed 139) in a greenhouse or similarly protected be eaten as a vegetable, and the roots are edible to become old and woody or established among situation (see pp.43–48). as a cooked vegetable or used raw in salads. An other plants or in pathways. It is possible to ■ Harvesting and storage Cut single leaves elegant, hardy, herbaceous perennial, widely restrict mint growth by planting it in a sunken or bunches low down on the stems with scissors. naturalized, lovage is capable of growing to container (see p.139) or within some other form Parsley leaves can be frozen (see p.140) for the considerable height of at least 6ft (2m); its of physical barrier. Extended supplies can be out-of-season use. placement therefore requires thought. The leaves obtained by potting up roots in the fall and ■ Forms and cultivars There are two main are divided, and clusters of pale green to yellow bringing them indoors. kinds. Plain-leaved cultivars of the French and f lowers are borne in f lat heads in midsummer. Italian types are the easiest to establish and ■ Cultivation Grow in sun or partial shade in Propagate by division in spring or fall, taking grow, and are more strongly f lavored than the rich, deep, moist soil. Propagate by seed sown rooted shoots or planting 2in (5cm) long pieces of decorative cut and curled leafed types, of which in situ (see pp.66–69) in late summer or collect rhizome horizontally so they lie 2in (5cm) deep there are many cultivars. Selections range from self-sown plants. Clumps can be divided in and 10in (25cm) apart. Replant every three or pale to dark green in color. spring (see p.140). four years. Mint is prone to mint rust (see p.257), ■ Harvesting and storage Young shoots are which can be devastating. Where infection Rosemary blanched by earthing up somewhat like trench occurs, dig up and burn the plants as soon as it celery (see pp.120–121), since they develop in appears, and replant fresh stock on a new site. Rosmarinus officinalis spring. Leaves are best picked before f lowering. ■ Harvesting and storage Pick leaves throughout the growing season and use them The highly aromatic leaves of rosemary are a Marjoram fresh. For storage, freezing is more successful traditional f lavoring for cooked meats. An than drying (see p.140). evergreen shrub related to mint and sage, it Origanum species ■ Forms and cultivars Commonly grown has short, needlelike leaves densely packed on mints include spearmint (Mentha spicata) and long branches, and pale blue, sometimes white Two kinds of marjoram are grown for their apple mint (Mentha suaveolens); Bowles’ mint f lowers borne especially in the summer but at distinctively f lavored leaves: pot marjoram (Mentha villosa var. alopecuroides) is particularly other times throughout the year in mild sites. or oregano (Origanum vulgare) is usually used aromatic and resistant to rust. There are many Rosemary is vulnerable to low temperatures, dried, while sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana) other kinds that are attractive for their range especially when young, or in exposed areas; has a more delicate f lavor and is used fresh. of aromas, leaf forms, and variegation. some selections are less hardy than others. Pot marjoram is a bushy, hardy perennial ■ Cultivation Rosemary bushes are attractive growing up to 2ft (60cm) high, and bears small Parsley as specimens in the shrub border or as low, mauve f lowers in summer. Sweet marjoram, semiformal hedges. One or more plants can although shrubby, is grown as a half-hardy Petroselinum crispum be grown in a large container (see pp.138–139) annual and is less decorative, with insignificant and kept trimmed with pruners; in this white to pink f lowers. Parsley foliage is used chopped as a f lavoring and form, the plants can be brought under cover ■ Cultivation These herbs do best on fertile a garnish in a wide range of hot and cold dishes. during winter in cooler areas. Rosemary soil in a sunny position. For a winter supply, It is a biennial herb, which is generally hardy, but can be propagated from seed, but softwood the plants can be lifted, potted, and taken into is usually grown as an annual. Most selections cuttings (see p.140), as well as cuttings taken a well-lit position under cover (see pp.43–48). grow up to 12in (30cm) in the leafy first-year from semiripened shoots, root easily and the Both types also can be grown as container stage, though some f lat-leafed forms may exceed plants establish well on suitable sites. Keep plants (see pp.138–139) either outside or under 2ft (60cm), according to growing conditions and young plants pinched to maintain a bushy cover. Propagate pot marjoram from softwood site. Flat heads of small, yellow f lowers are borne habit (see p.139), and aim to prune regularly cuttings or by division (see p.140) and keep in the second season, and the plants will self-seed and moderately. in favorable places. ■ Harvesting and storage Pick leaves and f lowering shoots in spring and early summer
A-Z OF CULINARY HERBS 145 and use them fresh, frozen, or dried (see p.140). Sorrel periodic cutting down during the growing season Leaves can be picked for use fresh all year, but by producing a new f lush of growth. will be tougher when picked late in the year. Rumex species ■ Harvesting and storage Pick leaves ■ Forms and cultivars There are spreading throughout the growing season and use fresh and upright forms. The shrub may grow up The young leaves of sorrel are added to or frozen (see p.140). Pick unripe seeds for use to 3ft (1m) high but can be contained by hard soups, sauces, soft cheeses, and egg dishes fresh. Lift the roots in fall and use fresh. pruning, which it tolerates well. for their fresh, tart f lavor. The buckler-leaf or French sorrel (Rumex scutatus) is slightly Tarragon Sage less acidic and more frequently grown than the common sorrel (Rumex acetosa). Both are Artemisia dracunculus Salvia officinalis hardy perennials; common sorrel is upright with long, leathery leaves, while buckler-leaf The leaves of tarragon are strongly aromatic Sage leaves are used in meat stuffings, and sorrel is low-growing and has shorter, shield- and are chopped for use in salads, and in fish and can also be added to salads. A shrubby shaped leaves. chicken dishes, particularly as a f lavoring for perennial, sage grows up to 2ft (60cm) tall, ■ Cultivation Both species grow well in sauces. It is one of the large group of with tough, gray-green, highly aromatic moist soil in sun or partial shade. Site them wormwoods, which belong to the daisy leaves, and bears spikes of attractive blue with care: buckler-leaf sorrel can be invasive, family, and is a herbaceous perennial available f lowers in summer. and both can be hard to eradicate once they in two forms. French tarragon (Artemisia ■ Cultivation Sage grows best in full sun have become established. Propagate sorrel by dracunculus) grows to 30in (75cm) and is on well-drained, light soils. It can be propagated sowing seed outdoors (see pp.66–69) in mid- variably hardy compared to the more robust by seed sown indoors (see pp.62–65) in spring spring or by dividing the plants (see p.140) Russian tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus or by softwood cuttings in summer or more in spring or fall. dracunculoides), which is not so well-f lavored mature shoots with a “heel,” a small piece ■ Harvesting Pick the leaves before f lowering when young and grows about twice as tall. of the previous year’s wood at the base, in in summer and use fresh; remove the f lowers as Both have narrow, glossy leaves. early fall (see p.140). Plants establish best they appear to prevent bolting. ■ Cultivation The tarragons succeed on from setting out in spring, spaced 18–24in fertile, well-drained soil, especially in a sheltered, (45–60cm) apart. Pruning after f lowering Sunflower sunny site. French tarragon does not reliably set helps maintain shape and encourage new seed in cool summers but spreads by rhizomes growth, but aim to renew plants every three Helianthus annuus that may be divided in spring, or softwood or four years. cuttings can be taken (see p.140) in midsummer. ■ Harvesting and storage Leaves can be This tender annual is widely grown for its Russian tarragon is propagated by sowing seed picked for use fresh or dried (see p.140) for seeds, which are eaten fresh or roasted or used under cover in spring (see p.140). winter use. It is best to pick leaves before in baking. With its height of 10ft (3m) or more ■ Harvesting and storage Harvest leaves or f lowering if drying them for storage. and cheerful, large yellow f lowers, the sunf lower whole stems throughout the growing season for ■ Forms and cultivars The numerous is a versatile plant, filling the role of a herb, use fresh, frozen, or dried (see p.140). cultivars with colored and variegated leaves a food crop, and an ornamental plant. are excellent border plants, but generally less ■ Cultivation Grow in well-drained soil in Thyme hardy than the common sage. full sun. Propagate by sowing seed outdoors (see pp.66–69) in spring; sow direct or in Thymus species Savory trays to minimize root disturbance. ■ Harvesting and storage Pick f lowerheads Thyme is a popular culinary herb, used in a wide Satureja species as the petals fade in late summer or early fall range of dishes. An ornamental, low-growing and pick out the chaff from between the seeds. perennial or subshrub, it has small leaves and There are two types of this strongly f lavored The seeds should readily come free when the bears tubular, two-lipped f lowers in shades of herb, often used like sage but especially added f lowerhead is f lexed and firmly stroked. pink or purple. to cooked fava beans, salads, and soups. ■ Cultivation Thymes prefer well-drained, Winter savory (Satureja montana) is a quite Sweet Cicely sunny sites. Thymus vulgaris and several other hardy, shrubby perennial,which grows to culinary thymes are hardy, while others 20in (50cm), with small, gray-green leaves. Myrrhis odorata are half-hardy. All can be grown indoors Summer savory (Satureja hortensis) is a smaller in pots for steady winter supplies. Propagate annual with softer, less intensely f lavored The leaves and seeds of sweet Cicely are every two or three years to avoid straggly leaves. Both bear whorls of white to pink or sweetly aromatic, with an aniseed f lavor, plants, by sowing outdoors (see pp.66–69) purple f lowers in summer. and are used in salads and fruit dishes. The in late spring or early summer, or by dividing ■ Cultivation Both types of savory thrive thick taproot is edible as a cooked vegetable. clumps and using the parts farthest from the on light, well-drained soil in a sunny position A hardy, herbaceous perennial, it requires space center (see p.140). Thymes tolerate hard and can also be grown in containers to to accommodate its large stature, as it grows trimming after f lowering (see p.139) to overwinter under cover (see pp.43–48). up to 5ft (1.5m) tall. It is a handsome plant maintain a good f lush of growth and to Propagate winter savory by seed sown in over a long season, especially for a woodland contain their size. spring, by division in spring, or by taking garden, and has fernlike foliage and bears f lat ■ Harvesting and storage Pick sprigs during softwood cuttings in summer or heel cuttings heads of white f lowers in summer. the growing season and use fresh, frozen, or in early fall (see p.140). Summer savory should ■ Cultivation Sweet Cicely should be grown dried (see p.140). be raised from seed in spring. The plants in rich, moist soil in sun or partial shade. ■ Forms and cultivars Thymus vulgaris is will grow to approximately 12in (30cm), Raise it from seed sown outdoors in the fall (see most commonly grown for the kitchen; it and should be cut back after f lowering in pp.66–69), or by division or root cuttings develops a semi-shrubby habit up to 12in order to encourage new growth. (see p.140). Self-seeding is common, and the plant (30cm) tall and gives a strong f lavor. Also ■ Harvesting Pick the leaves during the can become a weed, so remove the seedheads noteworthy are Thymus pulegioides and the growing season and use fresh. before maturity. Sweet Cicely responds well to lemon-scented Thymus x citriodorus.
FRUIT In recent times, the work of researchers, plant breeders, and specialized growers has encouraged gardeners to innovate in fruit cultivation, to adopt new techniques and develop old ones— growing traditionally large trees such as apples and pears in patio pots, for example, or pushing back the boundaries of hardiness with tender crops such as citrus. Despite the undoubted value of modern techniques, fruit growing still appeals to the senses in ways that bring us closer to nature—the beauty of the plants both in fruit and in blossom, the buzz of pollinating insects going about their work, the sun’s warmth ripening the crops, the scents and flavors of fresh-picked produce. One of the pleasures—and sometimes problems—of fruit growing is the fact that many wild creatures are as attracted to fruits as we are. These visitors remind us that to be fruitful, in every sense of the word, a garden must be full of all forms of life. A balanced approach must be sought that protects crops from pests while encouraging “garden friends” to help control problems.
148 FRUIT Visual index of fruit Use this index to locate details of individual fruit crops. Actinidia deliciosa p.235 Ananas comosus p.236 Citrus species p.234 Corylus avellana p.203 Cydonia oblonga p.200 and C. maxima Kiwi fruit, Chinese Pineapple Citrus Hazelnut and filbert Quince gooseberry Ficus carica p.197 Fragaria x ananassa p.211 Juglans regia p.204 Malus p.174 Mespilus p.201 domestica germanica Fig Strawberry Walnut Apple Medlar Morus species p.202 Olea europaea p.236 Opuntia ficus-indica p.237 Passiflora species p.235 Prunus armeniaca p.196 Mulberry Olive Prickly pear Passion fruit Apricot Prunus avium, p.189, p.191 Prunus domestica, p.185 Prunus dulcis p.205 Prunus persica p.193 Pyrus communis p.181 var. sativa P. cerasus P. insititia Sweet and Plum and damson Almond Peach and nectarine Pear sour cherry Ribes nigrum p.223 Ribes rubrum p.221 Ribes rubrum p.221 Ribes uva-crispa p.219 Rubus fruticosus p.215 and Rubus hybrids Black currant White currant Gooseberry Blackberry and hybrid berries Rubus idaeus p.215 Vaccinium p.225 Vaccinium p.226 Vitis vinifera, p.227 corymbosum macrocarpon V. labrusca Raspberry Red currant Blueberry Cranberry Grape vine
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