FIG 199 origin. Thin out crowded branches by cutting back to a stub of about 2in (5cm). Again, if there is a large number of branches to remove, spread the pruning over two or three years. With both forms, remove any suckers (vigorous shoots) arising from the base. These will spoil the shape of the tree, taking strength from the other shoots. ROUTINE CARE Pruning a container-grown fig Protecting figs from frost As an alternative to the bush with a short Use dried bracken, straw, or conifer branches In early spring each year, apply a top- stem, a fig in a container can be grown with to protect a trained fig. Pack behind the stems dressing of a high-potash (1:1:2 NPK) several stems. Cut a two- or three-year-old fig with a thin layer of bracken, then work in compound fertilizer (see pp.20–21) at to soil level, then select up to 10 good shoots bundles of bracken among the branches so a rate of about 2oz/sq yd (70g/sq m). that grow from the base. Remove 3 or 4 stems that the stems are covered by a layer at least During the summer, feed the fig with each year to keep a new supply of shoots. 2in (5cm) thick. Secure with a 6in (15cm) mesh a high-potash liquid fertilizer, such Summer prune by pinching shoots to 5 leaves. net pinned to the support with wire staples. as a tomato feed. Figs require regular watering during the spring and summer because the root restriction, and the required good drainage, increases the risk of the roots drying out. CARE OF FIGS IN CONTAINERS Remove the protection in mid-spring HARVESTING FIGS Feed trees in containers every week after the risk of severe frosts has passed. Fig yields vary very widely according during spring and summer with a to the tree size and growing conditions. liquid feed. Alternate between a high- PROPAGATION Harvest figs when they are fully ripe potash fertilizer, such as a tomato feed, and soft. When ready to pick, they hang and a more balanced feed. Water all Figs can be propagated by hardwood downward and splits appear in the skin, year as required and do not allow the cuttings in fall. Take cuttings at least especially at the stalk end. A drop of compost to dry out completely. 12in (30cm) long from the ripe, current nectar may exude from the eye of the season’s growth, and trim off the leaves fig. Pick fruit by holding the stalk and Every two years, the fig is likely to and any soft growth from the tip to breaking it away from the shoot. Figs need repotting in the dormant season. make woody cuttings of about 9in are best eaten soon after picking. Remove the tree carefully from its pot, (23cm) long, each with a straight cut knock off any loose compost, and cut at the base and an angled cut above a COMMON PROBLEMS away with pruners any thick, thonglike bud at the top. Insert the cuttings in The following pests and diseases may roots. Repot with some fresh loam- a trench 6in (15cm) deep, spacing them affect figs: brown scale (see p.253), and based potting compost into the same 4–6in (10–15cm) apart. They should red spider mite (see p.261), particularly container or into a slightly larger one. root within several months; leave them under glass or in a warm situation to develop to the end of the following outside, birds (see p.252), and coral spot WINTER PROTECTION growing season and then transplant canker (see p.254). Cropping laterals and their embryo to their final positions. figs will survive only light frosts. Characteristics In areas that are prone to winter RECOMMENDED FIG CULTIVARS frosts, protect the figs by covering the Large, yellowish-green fruits. Can be grown plant in late fall with a thick layer of Cultivar Picking time outside. bracken, straw, or conifer branches, secured with mesh netting (see above, ‘White Marseilles’ Early Brown fruits, sweet, dark-red flesh. Excellent right). Remove the protection in spring outside. once the danger of frost has passed, ‘Brown Turkey’ Midseason but before the buds break. Greenish-brown large fruits. Can be grown ‘Brunswick’ Midseason outside. Trees in containers can be moved to a frost-free place, such as a shed ‘Rouge de Bordeaux’ Midseason Small purple fruits with sweet, dark-red flesh. or garage. If they have to be left Good for containers in a warm site outside or outside, plunge the pot in the ground ‘White Ischia’ Midseason under glass. and cover the branches in the same ‘Bourjassotte Grise’ Late way as figs growing in the ground. Pale green, rich-flavored fruits. Best in containers. Blue fruits with rich, brown flesh. Suitable for containers, but needs protection to ripen.
200 TREE FRUIT CROPS Quince Pruning an established quince tree The true quince (Cydonia oblonga) is a Before pruning Before pruning (see far left), the quince relative of the pear, and originated in After pruning displays typical, haphazard growth, with central to southwestern Asia. It is often shoots growing in any direction, creating a confused with the shrubby ornamental crowded canopy. Winter pruning is needed Chaenomeles species, which are also to thin out the canopy and to improve light edible. Those are thorny shrubs, whereas penetration and air circulation. the true quince is a thornless, medium- sized tree. Quinces make ornamental Remove no more than a quarter of the and productive trees, with an attractive oldest branches by cutting them back to habit and large, dog-roselike flowers. the point of origin, or to a shoot that is one- The fruit is never soft enough to eat raw third of the diameter of the branch being when grown in cool countries, and is removed. Cut off crowded branches (see used for cooking and preserving. above), very vigorous shoots, and branches showing little growth. Quinces need a warm, sheltered site since the flowers are susceptible to frost, The canopy after pruning (see bottom and warm conditions are needed for the left) is more open, with a neater outline fruit to ripen properly. Provide extra and plenty of fruit-bearing laterals. shelter if necessary (see pp.12–13). They tolerate a range of soils, but grow best and early spring. Formative pruning air frosts. Store undamaged fruits in a in a deep, moisture-retentive soil. The is undertaken as on pp.166–167; this cool, dark, frost-free place on shallow trees grow well beside streams or ponds, pruning is vital, since quinces have a trays so the fruits do not touch. They but not in soil prone to waterlogging. rather irregular growth habit and need a are highly aromatic so avoid storing good basic framework. For the cropping them with apples or pears, otherwise TREE FORMS AND ROOTSTOCKS tree, prune every winter (see above). This the apples and pears may taste of quince. The most suitable forms for quinces pruning is generally fairly light, but are the half-standard and bush tree. make sure you remove any vigorous COMMON PROBLEMS Restricted forms are not suitable. shoots that may spoil the tree shape. Although quinces are troubled by some of the same pests as apples and pears, Quinces can be established on their ROUTINE CARE these are seldom significant. They own roots but are often grown on Quinces benefit from regular feeding. might, however, suffer from a few the quince rootstocks Quince A and C. In late winter, apply sulfate of potash diseases: quince leaf blight (see p.260), Quince A is semivigorous, producing at 1⁄2oz/sq yd (20g/sq m) over the brown rot (see p.253), fireblight (see a half-standard tree 11–15ft (3.5–4.5m) rooting area, and sulfate of ammonia p.255), and powdery mildew (see p.260). in height and spread. Quince C is semi- at 35–70g/sq m (1–2oz/sq yd) in early dwarfing and will produce a bush tree spring. Every third year, apply super RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS 10–11ft (3–3.5m) in height and spread. phosphate at 2oz/sq yd (70g/sq m). ‘Champion’ Produces good crop of large, POLLINATION For the first four years after planting, rounded fruits. Quinces are self-fertile and are insect- and every year for trees on dry soils, pollinated, so only one tree needs to mulch well (see p.161). Give extra water ‘Meech’s Prolific’ Pear-shaped fruits of be grown to produce a crop. during dry spells in spring and summer. very good flavor. PLANTING HARVESTING AND STORING ‘Orange Quince’ Tender pulp is orange- Plant (see pp.158–159) in the dormant Quince yields are very variable. Harvest yellow and the skin is golden. Excellent season. Bare-root plants usually establish the fruits when they are fully ripe, for cooking. well, as do container-grown plants if golden-colored, and aromatic, usually they are not pot-bound. It is worth in mid- to late fall before there are any ‘Portugal’ (syn. ‘Lusitanica’) Vigorous and obtaining a two-year-old bush tree less hardy than the other cultivars, but with the first branches already formed. has the best-flavored fruits. Stake quinces for the first two years. PRUNING A QUINCE HALF-STANDARD OR A BUSH TREE Quinces fruit mostly on the tips of the shoots made the previous year, and produce few fruiting spurs. Prune in the dormant season between late fall
MEDLAR 201 Medlar The medlar (Mespilus germanica) is an attractive ornamental, as well as fruiting, tree. It is related to the hawthorn and to the quince. A deciduous native of southeastern Europe and central Asia, it has been naturalized throughout much of Europe. Its spreading habit makes it a graceful addition to the garden, while it also has large, leathery leaves that have good fall color, and simple, white roselike flowers in mid- to late spring. The fruits can be used after picking for making a pleasantly f lavored jelly. Alternatively, they can be eaten raw if left until they reach the point of decomposing in the process known as “bletting” (see below). Medlars thrive in a warm, sheltered site in sun or partial shade and are tolerant of a range of soils, provided that they are well-drained. TREE FORMS AND ROOTSTOCKS Ripening fruits of the medlar tree ready to harvest Due to the spreading habit of the medlar, the standard and half-standard The brown, distinctive medlar fruits are about develop their flavor until they are fully mature. are the only suitable tree forms. Space each tree about 15–20ft (5–6m) from 1–2in (2.5–5cm) across when ready to pick. They will then part easily from the spur when surrounding plants to allow it to fulfill its natural habit without restriction. They should be left on the tree into fall to lifted gently in the hand. Medlars can be grafted on quince or PRUNING A MEDLAR STANDARD or four years; after that medlars should hawthorn rootstocks. Quince rootstocks OR HALF-STANDARD TREE be able to grow well without irrigation. are generally the better choice, offering With a ready-trained standard or half- greater stability. Of these rootstocks, the standard, for the first three or four HARVESTING AND STORING semivigorous Quince A and BA29 are years after planting, prune the branch Pick medlars in mid-fall (see above) most suitable. These will produce a leaders by about one-third of the in dry conditions, and dip the stalks in standard or half-standard tree 12–20ft previous summer’s growth to an a strong salt solution to prevent them (4–6m) in height and spread. outward-facing bud. Leave any short rotting. Store them eye downward and shoots unpruned and remove any not touching, on trays in a cool, dark, POLLINATION poorly placed or crowded branches frost-free place. Bletting, when the Medlars are self-fertile and pollinated in winter if needed. For a maiden f lesh softens and turns brown, will by insects, so only one tree needs to tree, grow on the main stem, tying it take two to three weeks. The medlars be grown to produce a crop. in, until it reaches the required height. will then be ready to eat. Remove low branches and train the PLANTING remaining ones as above. On a mature COMMON PROBLEMS Plant in the dormant season (see pp.158– tree, winter prune only to keep an Medlars are rarely troubled significantly 159). Bare-root plants usually establish open framework, removing any by pests or diseases. They may be well. Container-grown plants also grow crowded, diseased, or dead branches. affected by fungal leaf spot caused by away well if they are not pot-bound. If Diplocarpon mespili and Monilinia blight possible, obtain a part-trained standard ROUTINE CARE caused by the fungus Monilinia mespili. or half-standard tree and tie it in to a In late winter each year, apply a general low stake at planting. If you are starting compound fertilizer (see p.20) at about RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS with a maiden tree, plant it next to a 2oz/sq yd (70g/sq m) over the rooting tall stake—with about 6ft (2m) out of area. Mulch (see p.161) with organic ‘Dutch’ Spreading habit and fairly large fruits. the ground for a standard and 5ft (1.5m) matter, such as well-rotted manure, ‘Marron’ Self-fertile. Excellent choice for for a half-standard—and tie it in to the compost, or bark, for the first three stake to ensure a straight stem. or four years. Water well in dry periods jams and jellies; good disease resistance. in spring and summer for the first three ‘Royal’ Fairly upright habit. Medium- sized fruits.
202 TREE FRUIT CROPS Mulberry The mulberry species most frequently cultivated for fruit is the black mulberry (Morus nigra). Native to western Asia and grown throughout Europe, it is a long-lived and decorative tree. The white mulberry (Morus alba) is used to feed silk worms, but has inferior fruit. Mulberries grow best in sheltered, warm sites. They are tolerant of a range of soils, provided that they are well- drained with a pH of 5.5–7, but prefer a fertile, moisture-retentive soil. TREE FORMS AND ROOTSTOCKS Mature mulberry tree and fruit spaced, this adds to its decorative value in the Mulberries in the open are best grown garden. Pick fruits (see inset) when they have as standard or half-standard trees. Once established, the mulberry soon develops turned black and are fully ripe. They are fairly slow-growing, taking a gnarled appearance and somewhat irregular five years or so to start cropping. shape. As long as the branches are well- support by driving a forked stake into Eventually, they make substantial the ground and resting the branch on trees, needing 15–30ft (5–10m) for shoots for a good framework. Once cushioned sacking in the fork. their natural shape to develop, and the tree is established, little pruning so are suitable only for very large is needed; simply remove any crossing, HARVESTING MULBERRIES gardens. In cool areas, they benefit crowding, dead, or broken branches. Mulberry yields are very variable. from training as an espalier on a The fruits mature over a few weeks warm south-, southwest-, or west- PRUNING A MULBERRY ESPALIER in mid- to late summer, and are almost facing wall, where they need a space Formative pruning of an espalier is black when ripe, parting easily from 15ft (4.5m) wide and 8ft (2.5m) high. undertaken (see pp.171–172) in early to the spur. For preserving, use slightly midwinter. Once the tree is established, underripe fruits. Take care when Mulberries are usually grown prune lateral shoots arising from the harvesting, since the juice stains clothes on their own roots or grafted onto stem and branches of the espalier in late easily. For large trees spread a cloth seedling rootstocks. There are no summer, when the growth has slowed beneath the tree to catch fruits, then dwarfing rootstocks available. down, shortening them to three or four gently shake the branches. leaves to produce fruiting spurs. POLLINATION COMMON PROBLEMS Mulberries are self-fertile. They f lower ROUTINE CARE Mulberries are seldom troubled by pests relatively late, so tend to escape the In late winter each year apply a general and diseases. However, birds (see p.252) effects of the worst of the frosts. compound fertilizer (see p.20) at 2oz/ will take the fruits, and trees may be sq yd (70g/sq m) over the rooting affected by mulberry canker (see p.257). PLANTING area. Apply a mulch of organic matter Plant (see pp.158–159) in the dormant such as well-rotted manure, compost, RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS season. Bare-root plants usually establish or bark in spring (see p.161). Give well. Container-grown plants also grow extra water during dry periods in Choose from these named clonal selections away well if they are not pot-bound. the spring and summer for the first rather than unnamed seedlings. For a standard or half-standard tree, three or four years after planting; ‘Black Beauty’ A good-fruited clone. try to buy a part-trained tree to obtain after that mulberries should grow ‘Chelsea’ An old variety with juicy, a well-formed tree more quickly. well without irrigation. rich fruits. PRUNING A MULBERRY STANDARD The branches of mature trees may OR HALF-STANDARD TREE become brittle. If necessary, provide Prune mulberries when they are fully dormant: cutting in the growing season results in bleeding from the wounds. In the winter after planting, remove any shoots that spoil the shape, and any on the stem below the framework branches. Repeat in early to midwinter each year, removing any poorly placed
HAZELNUT AND FILBERT 203 Hazelnut and filbert The hazelnut and filbert are similar in are receptive, so you need to grow Brutted hazelnut appearance and there are also hybrids more than one cultivar for good shoots between the two. The main difference wind pollination. In late summer, stop is that the filbert (Corylus maxima) has strong laterals 12in a long husk, which covers the nut. PLANTING (30cm) or more in Both grow best in full sun or light Plant (see pp.158–159) in the dormant length halfway along shade; they will grow, but not crop season. Bare-root plants usually by snapping them well, in heavy shade. establish well. Container-grown plants without completely also grow away well if they are not breaking them off, Choose a sheltered site, avoiding frost pot-bound. If possible, obtain a part- and leave them pockets (see p.11). The trees are tolerant trained bush. In a very sheltered hanging down. This of a range of soils, provided that they situation, staking may not be needed; encourages fruit are well-drained and have a pH of otherwise, secure to a short stake for buds to form and 6.7–7.5. Light sandy soils are preferable, the first two or three years. reduces vigor. since on very fertile soils the trees tend to produce too much growth. PRUNING A BUSH ROUTINE CARE Formative pruning (see pp.166–167) is In late winter each year, apply a TREE FORMS AND ROOTSTOCKS done in the winter following planting. general compound fertilizer (see The most suitable tree form is an open- With hazelnuts and filberts, about eight p.20) at 2oz/sq yd (70g/sq m). For centered bush grown on a leg of 12–18in branches can be retained. Once the tree the first 3–4 years, mulch in spring (30–45cm). Space bushes 15ft (4.5m) is established, prune twice a year. (see p.161) and water during dry apart. Due to this wide spacing, and spells in spring and summer. because more than one tree is needed for Summer pruning (see above) is known pollination (see below), these trees are not as “brutting.” In the spring, when the HARVESTING AND STORING suitable for a small garden. Hazelnuts and pollen is being shed (the movement aids HAZELNUTS AND FILBERTS filberts are grown on their own roots. pollination), shorten branch leaders by Yields are very variable for hazelnuts about half to an outward-facing bud. and filberts. Harvest in early fall when POLLINATION Shorten strong laterals brutted (see husks start to turn yellow, but before Hazelnuts and filberts are monoecious, above) the previous summer to three they start to drop. Nuts harvested too that is they have separate male and or four buds, or remove them if they early do not store well and those left female flowers on the same tree (see are very vigorous. Leave weak laterals too long may be eaten by squirrels below). The flowers are fairly hardy unpruned. If the tree becomes too and mice. Dry the nuts in the sun, and but appear early, often in late winter to remove the husks when dry. Store in early spring, so may be affected by frost. tall—above 10–11ft (3–3.5m)—cut a cool, rodent-proof place in containers the leader back to a lower that allow some air circulation, such Although hazelnuts and filberts replacement lateral. Remove any as slatted trays or suspended net bags. are self-fertile, pollen is not always branches crowding the centre. produced when the female f lowers As the tree matures, remove COMMON PROBLEMS overlong side branches, cutting Nut weevil (see p.258) and powdery Bracts mildew (see p.260) may be troublesome. back to a stub of about 1in (2.5cm); Squirrels (see p.262) are a serious pest. Female flower the branch will regrow from this. Flowers are about Remove any suckers at the base in RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS 1⁄3in (8mm) long, the growing season. with red styles Hazelnuts protruding ‘American Hazelnut Tree’ Shells are easy from the end to crack. Plant two or more with another Male flower variety for proper cross-pollination. Ripe catkins are yellowish- ‘Halls Hazelnut’ Largest and tastiest variety. brown when shedding pollen Hardy and grows in almost any soil. Filberts Successful pollination ‘Butler’ Heavy cropping with large nuts. Flowers are wind-pollinated; pollen drifts from ‘Delta’ Richly flavored, medium-sized nuts. catkins to female flowers, so it helps to plant Likes partial shade. Pollinated by Gamma. a group of trees in square formation. ‘Episilon’ Small tree often grown as a large shrub. Medium-sized nut; will pollinate Zeta.
204 TREE FRUIT CROPS Walnut is essential to site a walnut 40–60ft (12–18m) in a large garden, well away The species cultivated for its edible nuts from other plantings. Walnuts secrete is the Persian or English walnut ( Juglans chemicals into the soil that may inhibit regia), native to Iran, Central Asia, and growth of some plants, so it is best not China. The North American black to grow plants in their rooting area. walnut ( Juglans nigra) is more vigorous and the nuts are of poorer quality. PRUNING AND TRAINING A WALNUT CENTER-LEADER STANDARD Walnuts make very handsome, but Prune walnuts as little as possible, substantial trees of 60–70ft (18–20m) since they bleed sap easily. Mid-fall, in height and spread. Slow-growing when risk of bleeding is least, is best. at first, they reach 30ft (10m) in the first For formative pruning, see box, below. 20 years. Although there are some more A mature tree needs minimal pruning: compact cultivars available, they still remove crossing or broken branches. are suitable only for very large gardens. ROUTINE CARE Walnut trees are fully winter-hardy, On poor soil, broadcast a balanced but the early growth is susceptible to compound feed (see p.20) at 2oz/sq yd spring frosts. A warm, sheltered site (70g/sq m) in early spring beneath the is best, avoiding frost pockets (see p.11). canopy area. After planting and for They grow best in deep, well-drained, the first 3–4 years, mulch (see p.161) moisture-retentive soil with a pH of 6.5 and water in dry conditions. to 7, and will tolerate some alkalinity. HARVESTING AND STORING TREE FORMS AND ROOTSTOCKS Harvesting walnuts Walnut yields are erratic. Harvest in Grow walnut cultivars as center-leader For storing, gather the nuts when their hulls fall (see left). To store nuts, clean the standards. They are usually grown crack to release the nuts from the shell shells before they discolor—wear gloves on a seedling rootstock of J. regia or (as here), and they start to fall. For pickling, since the sap stains easily—and dry, J. nigra. Plant only grafted, named harvest before the shell and hull harden. preferably in sun. Store in a slatted box cultivars, since seedlings take a long in cool, airy conditions such as a shed. time to come into bearing and usually 280ft (80m) away for cross-pollination. offer inferior nuts. Spring frosts may damage f lowers and COMMON PROBLEMS young shoots, causing poor cropping. Walnuts are fairly problem-free, aside POLLINATION from walnut blotch (see p.264) and Walnuts are monoecious—with male PLANTING walnut leaf blight (see p.264). Birds and female f lowers on the same tree— Plant (see pp.158–159) in late fall or (see p.252) of the crow family and and pollinated by wind. Most cultivars winter. Choose young, 3–4-year-old squirrels (see p.262) will take the nuts. are self-fertile, but the male f lowers plants part-trained as standards. Avoid often open before the females, so good pot-bound specimens, as walnuts have crops are assured if there is at least one a long taproot. Tie into a short stake other cultivar growing no more than 18–24in (45–60cm) above ground. It Formative pruning RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS The center-leader tree shape is basically Take out Remove low ‘Broadview’ Relatively compact and early pyramidal, although due to the walnut’s vertical shoots, laterals into bearing after only four or five years; spreading habit, it will become rounder has resistance to walnut leaf blight. with age. The goal in formative pruning is other than to promote a central, vertical leader from central leader ‘Colby’ Large growing tree with bark turning which all the main framework branches to a whitish color as tree matures. will grow. First, remove any competing leaders and vertical shoots that might ‘Franquette’ Reliable, with good-quality, spoil the shape. Then remove all laterals thin-shelled nuts, but is slow into bearing on the lower third of the stem to leave and makes a large tree. several wide-angled branches that start to form the crown of the tree. Continue ‘Harrison’ Medium-sized nut of excellent in subsequent years to remove vertical quality; good walnut blight resistance. shoots and maintain the crown. ‘Sigler’ Produces good-quality nuts, but is slow into bearing and makes a large mature tree. ‘Parisienne’ Produces good-quality nuts, but is vigorous and slow into bearing.
ALMOND 205 Almond Maturing almonds PLANTING Almond trees look very similar to peach trees, Plant (see pp.158–159) in the dormant The sweet almond (Prunus dulcis), but need particularly warm conditions to set season, preferably in late fall, since which is cultivated for its edible nuts, and ripen their crop reliably. Unlike peaches, almonds come into growth early. is closely related to the peach and the crop does not need thinning. Bare-root plants usually establish well. nectarine (see pp.193–195). It originated Container-grown plants also grow away in central Asia and the eastern Almonds can be grown on St. Julien A well if not pot-bound. Before planting, Mediterranean. Bitter almonds and rootstock, which will produce a prepare the stakes and wires (see p.162) many almond seedlings have a high medium-sized tree. Seedling peach or for the form you have chosen. concentration of hydrocyanic sour in almond rootstocks can also be used, but their nuts, and so are grown only as tend to produce a larger tree. PRUNING AND TRAINING ornamental trees. Almonds fruit on young wood made POLLINATION the previous season in the same way Almonds have very similar Almond cultivars are either self-fertile as peaches and nectarines, and so will cultivation requirements to peaches. or partly self-fertile and crop better if need replacement pruning to produce They need a favorable spring and they are cross-pollinated. They f lower a supply of new wood each year. Prune warm, sunny conditions throughout in early spring when pollinating insects them in spring and summer to avoid summer and early fall to produce are not always active, so it may be infection from silver leaf (see p.262) and ripen good crops. Because necessary to hand pollinate them using and bacterial canker (see p.253). they f lower in early spring—often a soft brush or a rabbit’s tail (see p.157). even earlier than peaches—they are For formative pruning of an almond vulnerable to frost damage in spring. bush, see pp.166–167. For established Consequently, they do not crop pruning, follow the method for sour reliably in a cool climate. However, cherries (see pp.191–192). For formative in a sheltered position, they are well pruning of a fan, see p.173. To prune worth growing for their ornamental an established almond fan, follow the value, with the bonus of nut crops method for peaches (see pp.193–194). in some years. ROUTINE CARE Choose a sunny spot sheltered from Follow the guidelines under peaches cold winds (see pp.12–13) and avoid (see pp.194–195). frost pockets (see p.11). Almonds can be grown on a range of soils, provided HARVESTING AND STORING that they are well-drained, ideally Almonds start cropping after three with a pH of approximately 6.5. or four years, although their yields are unpredictable. When they are ready TREE FORMS AND ROOTSTOCKS to harvest, the hulls will crack open The two most successful forms for and they will fall to the ground. When growing almonds are the bush and this starts to happen, pick the remainder the fan. Both forms also have excellent and clean them (see below). Store them ornamental value in the garden, and in cool, airy conditions such as in a the fan is particularly useful in a less rodent-proof shed or garage. favorable situation, where the tree can be trained against a warm, COMMON PROBLEMS south-, southwest-, or west-facing Almonds suffer from similar problems wall or fence. Space bushes 15–20ft as peaches and nectarines (see p.195). (4.5–6m) apart. A fan requires a space 11–15ft (3.5–4.5m) wide and 6–8ft (2–2.5m) high when mature. RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS Cleaning almond fruits In cool climates, the range of cultivars Remove the almonds by available is quite small. peeling away the soft husks. ‘Ingrid’ Strong-flavored nuts. Clean them, and dry ‘Macrocarpa’ Not self-fertile, large thoroughly, preferably in the fruit. Some resistance to peach sun, before placing them in a slatted tray or box for storing. leaf curl. ‘Mandaline’ Self-fertile, pink flowered.
206 GROWING SOFT FRUITS GROWING SOFT FRUITS Planning Soft fruits include cane fruits, such as Potted strawberries appreciate the free drainage and the fruits raspberries, blackberries, and hybrid With their dainty flowers, pendent scarlet fruits, remain free of soil splash and slug damage, berries; bush fruits, for example, red, and shapely foliage, strawberries (here ‘Gorella’) although they need extra watering. white, and black currants, gooseberries, look particularly attractive in pots. They blueberries, and cranberries; and is a fertile, well-drained loam about strawberries, which are herbaceous archway. This informal approach may 18in (45cm) deep. Heavy soils require perennials. Of these, strawberries bear also have the benefit of companion careful management to create a warmer fruit the soonest after planting, in just planting, since the mix of plants attracts soil with improved drainage. Black under a year. Most cane fruits crop a wider range of beneficial insects. currants and blackberries are more from the second year after planting; tolerant than other soft fruits of wet fall-fruiting raspberries may crop in Growing soft fruits in containers sites, but still prefer good drainage. the same year. For bush fruits, speed increases opportunities in the garden Sandy soils will need improvement of cropping depends on the age of and, with greenhouse protection, to increase retention of moisture and the plant and its fruiting habit. Black can extend the season from the usual nutrients. The addition of organic currants and blueberries bear fruit on outdoor span of early summer to matter, in the form of garden compost, the current or last season’s wood, so mid-fall to mid-spring to early winter. farmyard manure, or green manures, may fruit within a year of planting. Suitable containers include hanging has the potential to improve most soils. baskets, patio pots, and growing bags. For details on preparing your soil, see SOFT FRUITS IN THE GARDEN pp.37–40 and p.208. Soft fruits are highly rewarding. Not GOOD SOIL FOR SOFT FRUITS only are they at their most f lavorsome For details about different soil types, SOIL-BORNE PROBLEMS when eaten straight from the plant, see p.14. The ideal soil for soft fruits Replant diseases (see also p.261) may but they are also the most versatile occur when replanting fruit beds, of all the fruits in terms of how particularly in a mature garden. Caused they are grown in the garden. They by soil-borne fungi, the symptoms are can be positioned in a separate area, stunted growth of successive plantings possibly in a netted cage to fend of the same plant group. Replacing the off the birds (see p.209). An area of topsoil overcomes the problem, but it 30 x 70ft (10 x 20m) would yield is expensive and hard work. Choosing enough fruit for a family of four. a vigorous cultivar and planting into a black plastic sheet mulch (see p.208) will Alternatively, they can be mixed with help mitigate the disease’s effects. other plants in the ornamental garden to exploit their attractive features: Avoid planting strawberries after some strawberry cultivars have white strawberries or potatoes for at least five and pink flowers, or variegated leaves, while blackberries and hybrid berries have a long, slender habit that makes them ideal for climbing up a fence or Hanging garden Make use of hanging baskets to grow strawberries. Plant about 4 or 5 to a 16in (40cm) basket in potting compost, and add water- retaining gel and slow-release fertilizer granules to help the plants thrive.
PLANNING 207 years to minimize the possibility of cultivars. Cane fruits flower later than (900mm) or over per year—will cause verticillium wilt (see p.263), which is bush fruits and many strawberries, so nutrients to be lost from the soil and also a soil-borne disease. Soil drench are less susceptible to loss of fruit due plants, diseases such as botrytis (see formulations containing beneficial to frost. For methods of protecting p.252) to proliferate, and some physical microorganisms are available to redress crops from frost, see p.209. damage, which could also be the entry the balance and revive a “sick soil.” point for disease infections. Growing soft fruit in containers (see PROVIDING SHELTER p.208) avoids all of these problems. Soft fruits need shelter (see pp.12–13) If you live in an area of high rainfall, to prevent strong winds from damaging you may decide to plant soft fruits in a NUTRITION AND pH LEVELS new growth, flowers, and fruits. Shelter greenhouse or polytunnel, which must The levels of nutrients in the soil and will also increase the local temperature be provided with shade and adequate its acidity or alkalinity affect the growth slightly, encouraging pollinating and ventilation in summer and winter. and productivity of soft fruits. It is other beneficial insects, and providing Chemical fungicides control diseases worth testing your soil nutrient and pH a more favorable environment that leads encouraged by wet. Some cultivars have levels before planting (see p.17 and p.18) to less disease, and improved ripening some resistance to botrytis diseases. and monitoring these levels at intervals of fruit and stems. to avoid under- or overfeeding, both PLANNING THE LAYOUT of which can adversely affect crops. Artificial windbreaks of plastic mesh Once you have found a suitable site for may be preferred to hedges or used as a soft fruit, plan the positioning of the Strawberry crop sites may need to temporary measure on the leeward side plants. This will help you to judge how be sampled annually, whereas the of a young natural windbreak while it many plants you can fit in, and ensure woody, longer-living cane and bush is stilling growing to maturity. that taller plants will not shade others fruits may need sampling every three (see pp.29–30). A square or rectangular years if the soil was prepared well ALTITUDE AND RAINFALL plot will be easier to net against birds. before planting. Periods of heavy rain Soft fruits can be grown at altitudes of Strawberries are best planted in a bed and overwet soil conditions, especially up to 600ft (180m), although they will or area of their own for three or four when plants are dormant, cause need sufficient shelter from the stronger years before replacing. They can also particular nutrients, like nitrogen, winds at such heights. At high altitudes, be included with vegetables so that they to leach out of the soil. the temperatures are generally lower can be replanted regularly along with and the growing season shorter; bear the vegetable rotation. Select cultivars Most soft fruits perform best at a this in mind when choosing cultivars. that fruit in succession to extend the slightly acidic pH 6.2–6.7. Blueberries season and avoid a glut. Of the soft are an exception, preferring the more Water is essential for plant growth, fruits, only blueberries need another acidic pH 4–5.5. An alkaline soil above including the swelling of the fruit as cultivar as a pollinator. pH 7 causes manganese and iron to be it ripens, but excessive rainfall—36in unavailable to plants and a resulting Wall fruit chlorosis of the leaves will show (see All the cane fruits p.254). This is especially visible in and most bush raspberries, and dieback of sideshoots fruits, such as these on cane and bush fruits is another delicious redcurrants symptom. An acidic soil will cause ‘Jonkheer van Tets’, some minor nutrients to be too readily can be trained available at levels toxic to most plants. against a wall or fence. This is an CHOOSING A SITE economical use A garden fence or wall that faces of space in the southeast, south, or southwest provides garden, ensures that the warmest and sunniest aspect for soft the fruits receive as fruits. The sun ripens growth, especially much sun as possible cane- and bush-fruit wood, encourages to ripen them. Plants healthy flower buds, and gives ripe, grown in this way are flavorsome fruits. Hybrid berries and also easier to net blackberries tolerate partial shade. against birds, as well as to harvest. Frost is particularly damaging to soft fruits when they are in blossom, as the low temperatures can kill the flowers, causing the loss of the crop. If it is not possible to avoid planting in a frost pocket (see p.11), choose more frost-tolerant crops, or later-flowering
208 GROWING SOFT FRUITS Planting soft fruits To ensure sound establishment, a good Planting a container-grown plant crop of fruits, and maintain healthy plants, it is important to prepare the soil properly before planting (see pp.37–40). Growing soft fruits in containers can provide fruit in the short term if long- term soil preparation is needed. PREPARING THE SOIL 12 When you are planting an area with soft fruits, prepare the whole patch 1Using a black plastic sheet mulch rather than individual planting holes. will help to warm the soil and suppress Unless you are following the “no-dig” weeds. Rake a 4in (10cm) deep bed to a system (see p.39), start by digging over mounded surface. Cut a piece of plastic the area, removing any perennial weeds. about 12in (30cm) wider than the bed. With a shovel, push the edges of the Incorporate organic matter before plastic into a slit trench around the bed. planting to provide a good medium in which the roots can establish. Add 2 Mark out the planting holes at the additional fertilizer as an insurance to correct spacing. Use a garden knife top up nutrient levels. New gardens may to cut cross-slits at each planting site. need up to one barrowload of organic matter per 3sq yd (3sq m), 1oz/sq yd 3Dig a hole large enough to take the (35g/sq m) of sulfate of potash, and 1⁄2oz/ rootball. Place the plant (here a bush sq yd (15g/sq m) of superphosphate. gooseberry) in the hole, checking that it is at the same depth as it was in its pot. Fill There are a number of ways in which to improve less-than-perfect soils (see 3 in with soil and firm it in well. Water the pp.22–26). On heavy soils, mounding the soil up to 8in (20cm) for planting plant thoroughly through the planting slits. can improve drainage and soil warming and reduce the root rots caused by If you are planting in a raised bed, add It is best to plant bare-root plants as soon fungus like Phytophthora (see p.259). bulky organic matter and, in a heavy as you buy or receive them. If this is not On shallow soils, mounding will soil, plenty of grit. To prepare growing possible, store them with the roots in improve the local soil depth. bags, plump them up, cut out the moist peat or peat substitute in a plastic number of holes required, and water bag on a concrete floor in an unheated Planting a bare-root plant them if they are dry. For containers, building, or heel them in the garden In winter, when the plant is dormant, prepare use a mixture of peat-based compost by digging a shallow trench, placing a planting hole large enough to accommodate or peat substitute and soil-based compost. the roots in the trench, and covering the roots. Use a cane across the hole to check Mix coarse bark and grit into the lower with well-firmed soil. Before planting, that the planting level will match the nursery levels of large containers to increase soak the roots in water for two hours. soil mark on the stem once it is firmed in. Hold drainage. Adding a slow-release fertilizer Adding a biostimulant, such as seaweed the plant at this level while you fill in with soil. will provide optimum nutrition. extract, will give faster and improved root growth. As you plant, shake the CHOOSING AND PLANTING SOFT FRUITS soil progressively around the roots to Start with vigorous, healthy plants from avoid any air holes. Firm in each plant a reliable source. Many soft fruits have carefully, water it thoroughly and then certifications in which the fruits mulch with organic matter. have been inspected and certified as free of pests and diseases. Plants are supplied Container-grown soft fruits should with bare roots or in containers. Bare- grow away well even in the summer, root plants are usually less costly but provided they do not dry out. Rootballs can be planted only when dormant— in peat-based composts dry out more from late fall to early spring. Fall is than the surrounding soil; to counteract preferable, if the soil is still warm, this, plant them slightly deeper to cover to promote root establishment. Bare- the rootball, and apply a mulch. For root strawberry plants (runners) can planting in containers, see p.36. be planted all the year round (see p.212), as can container-grown plants. Plant most soft fruits at the depth of their nursery soil mark—plant cane fruits and black currants more deeply.
GENERAL CARE 209 General care Although good soil preparation is the basis for healthy, sound soft fruit plants, a simple program of routine care will ensure that your plants remain at their optimum health. WATERING canopy, they may cause damp-related ▲ Protection from birds Watering is essential to the well-being diseases to arise. Annual weeds also Fruit cages for bird protection are available in of soft fruits, especially at planting compete with the crop for nutrients kit form or you could make a system of sturdy and as fruits swell. Avoid overwatering and water. Although some species may stakes wired together and drape netting over mature fruit plants, which causes the attract beneficial insects and serve as them. Secure the netting to the soil with pegs. fruit to rot more readily as it ripens, green manure, they should be left only and reduces the taste and sweetness. where organic growing systems are ◀ Protection from rain It can also result in poor root activity carefully managed—and none should A simple raincover, such as plastic sheeting, and nutrient loss from the soil. be allowed to set seed. will protect ripe fruit (here blackberry ‘Loch Ness’) from being ruined and can extend the FEEDING FROST PROTECTION fruiting period from late summer into fall. The organic matter incorporated before To protect f lowers and young fruits planting needs to be topped off annually against frost damage, you may be able by the color and smell of ripening and with mulches (see pp.41–42), usually to cover soft fruit bushes with brulap overripe fruit, and eat soft fruit as a in early to mid-spring when the soil or f leece. Since they are low-growing, source of water as well as food. The temperature has started to rise. Hay, strawberries can be covered with f leece most effective way to protect ripening which has been shown to break down or cloches, with the addition of some fruit is in a fruit cage. This may also more readily and release more nutrients newspaper if the frost is severe. Move be needed in winter when birds such than straw, is particularly beneficial. container-grown fruits under cover. as bullfinches eat the following year’s fruit buds, especially of gooseberries. Green manures (see p.23), such as SOFT FRUIT PROBLEMS grazing rye, white clover, vetch, and If proper care is taken over preparation Fruit cages can be bought in kit form mustard, can be sown around newly of the site, over planting, training and in all shapes and sizes. For the most planted soft fruit in late summer to pruning, and routine care, the incidence basic cage, you can erect corner posts avoid creating too much competition. of pests and diseases will be reduced. and put flower pots or plastic bottles Their f lowers will attract beneficial Overfeeding with nitrogen will cause over the tops of the posts to support insects, both pollinators and predators, soft growth that attracts sucking insects the netting. A fine woven mesh will but cut them before they set seed. such as aphids (see p.251). keep out insect pests (and any beneficial insects), but roll the netting up at the Apply any additional dressings of If problems do occur, choose an sides at flowering time so pollinators fertilizers (see pp.20–23) needed to appropriate method of control—either can enter. Remove the netting when maintain soil fertility sparingly in chemical methods or exploiting natural the plants are not at risk from birds. order to avoid wastage and pollution predators with use of biological controls of water courses. Use nitrogen and (see p.52). Always follow the supplier’s Netting draped over plants is less potassium annually in spring or early instructions with care. expensive than a fruit cage, but needs summer, and phosphorus occasionally to be removed to give access to pick in spring. Soil analysis (see p.17) is Soft fruits are particularly prone to the fruit and, unless it is very well- advisable to monitor the soil pH and attack from birds, which are attracted secured, birds will find their way in. potassium and phosphorus levels. Noisy scarecrows can be effective, Growing bags will require liquid feeds but may irritate you and the neighbors. after four weeks of growth. To other A line that hums in a slight wind can containers, add a slow-release fertilizer be strung across the garden, emitting in spring, according to the instructions sound that disturbs birds, but other on the packaging. animals, including pets, will also be affected. Container-grown soft WEED CONTROL fruits can be brought under cover Remove perennial weeds as soon as for protection as their fruits ripen. they become apparent; if left, they will compete with soft fruits for moisture, For other problems that may be nutrients, and light, and, since they can likely to affect soft fruits, see individual prevent air movement around the plant crops, pp.211–226.
210 GROWING SOFT FRUITS PRUNING SOFT FRUITS Figure-eight knots prevent Soft fruits require dead, diseased, and stems rubbing against wires. damaged growth to be removed to maintain health and vigor. Pruning Train in new growth Cut out fruited wood at planting reduces the need for water Carefully lower Using angled cuts, until the roots are established. Pruning remove fruited wood also encourages productivity. Crown new shoots to train just above ground level thinning of strawberries (see p.213) and into supports spur pruning (see below) of gooseberries improve air circulation as well as flower Pruning and training of blackberries and hybrid berries quality and fruit size by regulating the numbers of flower buds. Fruit size is This basic method shows how the new new season’s shoots can be lowered and tied an important consideration when exhibiting soft fruits at shows. season’s shoots are trained in vertically at the in to the support wires as replacements when Pruning is also vital for creating and center of the plant. Once the previous season’s growth restarts in spring. There are several maintaining the shape of woody soft fruits. On a basic level, the removal of shoots have fruited, they can be cut out. The other ways of training stake fruits (see p.216). crowded and crossing branches ensures that the plant has a balanced shape. TRAINING AND SUPPORT SYSTEMS Stake fruits are traditionally trained on Replacement pruning to produce new Training goes hand in hand with a freestanding post-and-wire support growth can also break the lifecycle of pruning. It is needed to form the system to avoid breakage of the stakes some diseases, like American gooseberry basic shape of woody soft fruit and to keep fruit off the soil. There are mildew (see p.251) on gooseberries and plants, and, for those grown against several ways of erecting the posts and black currants, and coral spot canker (see supports—such as stake fruits, and horizontal galvanized wires according p.254) on red and white currants. Some fan- and cordon-trained bush fruits to preference and the number of plants bush fruits, such as gooseberries and red —it is the means being grown (see p.216). Wires can also and white currants, may also be pruned of maintaining the be attached to fences and walls using and trained into cordon or fan shapes plant shape. vine eyes. Allow up to 4in (10cm) to make use of a wall or fence, for ease between the wires and the supporting of fruit picking and management, and Prune main shoot structure so that air can circulate. for a more decorative effect. Remove about one- third of previous The use of wooden trellis, pergolas, Since stake fruits (except fall-fruiting season’s growth to and arches will show off stake fruits to raspberries) produce their fruits on the encourage branching good effect in the ornamental garden. previous year’s wood, they need annual Planting stake fruits by a single post pruning to remove the fruited wood. Shorten sideshoots and training them around it will use Strawberries also need routine pruning Cut each sideshoot less space, but demands careful training in the form of removal of their runners back to few buds to keep the stakes within bounds. as they appear (see below). from main shoot Bush fruits, such as black currants and Pruning strawberries Spur pruning bush fruits blueberries, are usually grown as stooled Rooted runners affect the size and quality When forming a permanent framework of plants, meaning that new stems grow of fruit on the parent plant by competing for fruiting branches on a red or white currant from below ground to maintain vigor. water, light, and nutrients. Remove the runners or gooseberry bush, aim to produce a system These need no training. Gooseberries, before they have rooted by cutting or pinching of short, fruiting spurs on the main shoot by red currants, and white currants are them out close to the parent plant. reducing long sideshoots in winter. generally trained as a bush form on a short stem, or leg, to reduce vigor. Where they are trained as fans or cordons, they require a system of wire supports on posts or against a fence.
STRAWBERRY 211 SOFT FRUIT CROPS Strawberry Strawberries are renowned for their form flower buds in the longer days of Pretty and succulent and sweetly f lavorsome summer. Alpine strawberries (see p.214) productive fruits. They can be enjoyed for up to are a selection of the wild strawberry The pink-flowered 10 months of the year, from early Fragaria vesca subsp. alpina. They make strawberries, such spring to early winter, by planting a an attractive ornamental edging for the as ‘Viva Rosa’, shown variety of cultivars and judicious use border, and the fruits, although small, here, add interest of containers and protective covers. are fragrant and sweet. to the fruit garden. They can also be The cultivated strawberry, Fragaria x Strawberry plants are inexpensive, used to great effect ananassa (pineapple strawberry), is the compact, and versatile. Planting them to edge ornamental result of a cross between the Chilean directly into garden soil, either in flat borders, and when strawberry Fragaria chiloensis and the or raised beds, allows unrestricted grown in patio pots North American meadow strawberry root growth, which benefits perennial and hanging baskets. Fragaria virginiana (first reported in 1766). crops. Strawberry beds usually last for Breeders have since created a vast range three or four years with the plants in With their pretty f lowers, sometimes of more productive, better tasting, and good health and cropping well before variegated foliage, and red and larger-fruited cultivars. Strawberries are they need to be replanted. Strawberry white fruits, strawberries are too commonly grown in temperate regions plants can also be incorporated with versatile to be confined to the as a hardy herbaceous perennial that may the vegetable rotation and replanted fruit patch. Try pink- and white- crop for up to four years. In warmer annually. Raised beds can improve f lowered cultivars with trailing regions, they are often grown as annuals drainage on heavy soils, increase rooting Artic raspberries for a productive and where they produce very high yields of depth on stony ground, and, if covered colorful container. quality fruit over an extended season. with a sheet mulch (see box, right), can be used to extend the growing season. WHICH SHEET MULCH? Cultivars are grouped according to their season of fruiting. “Summer Another way of extending the season ■ Plastic sheet mulches control annual, bearers” produce flower buds in the is to grow strawberries in containers, and most perennial, weeds and allow early short days of late summer and early fall; such as hanging baskets, windowboxes, soil preparation for planting. All plastic “perpetual” (remontant) types usually tubs, and growing bags. In addition mulches need to be laid as tightly to the soil to being free of soil-borne problems, as possible throughout the life of the crop Hanging strawberry planter container plants can be raised off the to keep surface puddles from forming and Suspended from a firm support, a standard ground for easier maintenance and encouraging rotten fruit. Laying the sheet growing bag can be used as a hanging planter picking, placed under cover to protect in warm weather helps to keep it tight. for strawberries. Place the growing bag in them from the weather, and moved ■ Black plastic warms the soil, helping to a sunny location outdoors, or keep it under around the garden as you wish. bring forward cropping, but may become cover to obtain early fruits. too hot in summer and cook the fruits. ■ Colored plastics generally stay cool by transmitting heat into the soil and can bring forward cropping by up to four days. ■ White plastic and other reflective plastics keep soil cooler so delay the start of fruiting, but increase light levels in the crop’s canopy, helping photosynthesis and fruit ripening. Research has shown that aphid numbers and consequent virus infections have been considerably reduced where reflective mulches have been used.
212 SOFT FRUIT CROPS Planting strawberries in a flat bed 1Mark out a planting row 2 Plant a runner at each 3Ensure that the crown of 4 Water the row of runners with a garden line in well- of the marked points. each plant is level with thoroughly to settle the soil prepared and leveled ground. Avoid constricting or bending the surface. Fill in the hole and around the roots. After planting, Measure out planting holes the roots, trimming any overlong firm in with your fingers. Test keep all the plants well watered, for each strawberry plant at roots to no less than 4in (10cm), whether the plant is sufficiently especially while they are starting 12–15in (30–38cm) intervals. if necessary. firm by gently pulling at a leaf. to produce new leaves. PREPARING STRAWBERRY BEDS warming the soil. Prepare the soil When planting bare-rooted runners in Strawberries thrive in a free-draining, underneath to a fine tilth to ensure f lat beds, first rake over the bed, then fertile loam, so prepare the soil well a snug fit, and mound it so that plant as shown above. Alternatively, before planting (see p.208). Develop water will run off the plastic. Plastic plant in a raised bed through a sheet good soil structure for root growth and mulches conserve existing moisture mulch (see left). It is easier in both cases free drainage, discouraging soil-borne in the soil, but the plants will soon to insert plants with a special planting diseases that thrive in waterlogged fill the planting holes and prevent the fork, using the fork to straighten out conditions. For the best growth and penetration of sufficient water to the roots in the soil. Ensure that the fruit f lavors, avoid planting in shade. the roots. They will need additional crown is at soil level with its top Mix in plenty of well-rotted organic watering during hot, dry weather uncovered so that it does not rot. matter—to a spit’s depth on clay and and when the fruits are swelling, so sandy soils. Dig out perennial weeds you will need to install a watering In containers, use a loam-based or treat them with a systemic chemical system. This could be through plant potting compost or add water-retentive weedkiller well before planting, when pots sunk through the plastic into granules to a soil-less compost to reduce they are in active growth. the raised bed or via a low-pressure the need for watering. Installing an watering system underneath the plastic. automatic low-pressure watering system When growing strawberries through or a reservoir and wick system can also a sheet mulch on a raised bed, keep PLANTING help, but beware of overwatering. the plastic taut so that it is effective in Traditionally, bare-rooted strawberry runners are planted in beds. Buy in ROUTINE CARE Planting through a sheet mulch new plants from a certified source for Keep plants well watered after planting To plant through a plastic sheet mulch, spread successful crops. until they produce new leaves; the sheeting tautly over a mounded bed that during dry spells and as the fruit is is 4–6in (10–20cm) deep and 4ft (1.2m) wide. Late-summer plantings of summer ripening to improve crop yields; and Cut cross-slits in 2 rows at 12–15in (30–38cm) bearers establish well and fruit in the in early fall for summer bearers to staggered intervals. Plant each strawberry at following year; fall and spring plantings ensure a healthy supply of f lower least as deep as it was in its pot. Firm; water. should have their first flush of flowers buds for the following year. Once removed so the plants crop well in their the fruits have formed, avoid watering second year. Perpetuals are best planted plants overhead, especially late in in fall or spring. Cold-stored runners, the day, in case the damp encourages frozen at 28°F (–2°C) after lifting botrytis (see p.252) and slugs (see p.262) from nurseries, are available for planting on the fruits. out from late spring to midsummer. If watered with a fine spray until Fruiting plants often need liquid established, they should crop well in feed through the watering system. 60 days. They revert to the usual season Using tomato feeds with a high potash of fruiting in the second year. content during the growing season will markedly improve f lower quality and
STRAWBERRY 213 the f lavor and color of the fruit. Those Neatening and thinning strawberry plants in growing bags will need a balanced liquid feed after four weeks of growth 1Neaten up strawberry plants in and until f lowering. From then to the early spring. Retaining the leaves end of harvest use a tomato feed, then over the winter affords some protection revert to the balanced feed. from cold weather, and the increase in light and air to the plant after neatening The use of sheet mulches and of encourages healthy new growth. Pinch containers will keep plants neat, giving good flower and fruit quality. Where out or cut off all dead, damaged, or the runners that arise naturally from diseased leaves and old runners and strawberry plants root, they compete for fruits to eliminate any pests and water, nutrients, and light. Unless they 1 diseases. The healthier the remaining are needed for propagation (see p.214), leaves, the better the development of remove them as they appear (see p.210). new leaves, flower buds, and roots. In early spring, tidy plants to make 2 2Thin out crown numbers as the way for new leaves (see right). Crown plants get older. A crown is formed numbers will increase as the plants get by a cluster of leaves arising from a older and may need to be thinned out growing point at the base of the plant. at the same time (see right). Pull off the smaller crowns at the base to leave 3 or 4 crowns per plant. This PROTECTING THE CROP will concentrate the plant’s energies Protective coverings can be used to into producing good-sized fruits. extend the fruiting period and protect ripening fruit from the weather and The developing fruits will also need Covering some strawberry plants in birds. Covering outdoor plants in the protection. To protect the crop from late winter with a 8–12in (20–30cm) early spring with a tunnel cloche (see birds, drape a fruit net on posts about deep layer of straw (secured with pp.46–47), at least 18in (45cm) wide 4ft (1.2m) high over the crop. Use wire netting if exposed), or an opaque white and 12in (30cm) high, or a f leece (see netting if squirrels are a problem. You plastic sheet, will delay flowering by p.48) will encourage f lowering and also need to keep individual fruits clean seven days by trapping cold in the soil. hence fruiting about seven days earlier. of soil. Sheet mulches will prevent soil This slightly extends the fruiting season. The f leece can be laid over the splash on raised beds. Crops on the f lat Remove the covering in late spring so plants or, for added frost protection, need to be protected by a mulch of the plants resume normal growth. raised on wire hoops. Lift the covering straw or bracken, or a strawberry mat during the day at f lowering to allow (see below). Straw can be a source of CONTAINER-GROWN STRAWBERRIES access by pollinating insects. Similar botrytis (see p.252) and home to slugs To extend the fruiting season further, protection in early fall will shield late when wet, and should therefore be move plants in containers into a frost- fruit from the effects of rain and cold. removed in the fall. free greenhouse or solarium in late winter. Heating it to a minimum Protecting the fruits of 50ºF (10ºC) will bring forward the time of f lowering, but air temperatures should not exceed 61ºF (16ºC) until f lowering to prevent f lower blindness (when f lowers do not form). Increase the temperature to 61ºF (16ºC) at f lowering to enhance the f lowers’ ability to pollinate and set fruit. If pollinating insects are in short supply, use hatching fishing maggots to provide f lies for pollination. You may prefer to hand-pollinate, using a paintbrush or a hair dryer to redistribute the pollen between the Using a straw mulch Using strawberry mats f lowers. After fruit set, maintain a Tuck clean straw under developing fruits These fiber mats are often easier to buy temperature of 63ºF (17ºC) and to protect them from soil splash. On black and use than straw, and last longer. Put a ventilate at 68ºF (20ºC) until harvest. plastic sheet mulches, this also prevents mat around each plant. Use in early fall to To enhance growth of new leaves the fruits from being scorched. protect late fruits from rain and cold weather. and of f lower buds for the following year, continue watering and feeding
214 SOFT FRUIT CROPS until early fall and, for perpetuals, until RECOMMENDED STRAWBERRY CULTIVARS the end of harvest. Allow all plants to experience the winter cold; most need Summer bearers Perpetuals a spell at cold temperatures to break plant dormancy and stimulate f lowers ‘Alice’ Mid-late season, good flavor and ‘Aromel’ Fruits twice a year. Remove and growth in the new season. yield. Good resistance to verticilium wilt. flowers in May for a good fall crop. ‘Cambridge Favorite’ Midseason. Excellent Superb flavor. PROPAGATION flavor. ‘Baron Solemacher’ Neat clump with no Strawberries are fairly easy to propagate ‘Hapil’ Midseason. Orange-red fruits. runners. Alpine strawberry flavor. by transplanting rooted runners into Ideal for dry soils. Heavy yields. ‘Bolero’ Moderate resistance to verticillium pots. Choose only those from the ‘Honeoye’ Early. Firm, dark red fruits. wilt. Regular conical shape. Excellent taste. previous year’s certified plants that are ‘Pegasus’ Midseason. Good tolerance of Fragaria vesca ‘Mara des Bois’ Alpine free from aphids (which carry viruses). pests and diseases. strawberry flavor and good-sized fruit. If you use runners from an older crop, ‘Symphony’ Late season. Firm, regular- Resistant to powdery mildew. there is no guarantee they will be free shaped fruits. Resistant to red core and ‘Viva Rosa’ Large pink flowers and fruit up from disease, especially viruses. vine weevil; prone to powdery mildew. to the first fall frosts. HARVESTING AND STORING sweet-flavored fruits. Harvest fruits look appetizing after they have been STRAWBERRIES when they are fully colored and eat thawed out; an exception is ‘Totem’. Bare-root runners, if planted in late them as soon as possible, otherwise they summer, and runners propagated in pots may continue to ripen after picking. COMMON PROBLEMS and planted in early spring, will fruit Monitor for pests and diseases all year in the new season. Expect to pick 1lb To store strawberries, pick them round, especially in the greenhouse. (450g) or more of fruit per plant from when the fruit has a white tip and is Particular problems that may affect healthy plants. Picking when daytime slightly unripe, cool them quickly, strawberries are viruses and botrytis. temperatures are high gives juicy, and keep for a few days at 36–39ºF Strawberry viruses (see p.263) can be (2–4ºC). Strawberries can be frozen but minimized by planting only plants ALPINE STRAWBERRIES not many cultivars remain intact and that have been certified virus-free and by controlling aphids (see p.251). These attractive and fragrant miniature to plant out in late spring. Allow 12in (30cm) To avoid botrytis (see p.252), maintain strawberries are best grown from seed and between plants and 30in (75cm) between dry foliage and good ventilation around replanted every two years or so. Once the rows. Harvest the ripe fruits in the evening, the plants. Remove any overripe or seeds have germinated, prick them out. crush them, add sugar, and leave overnight moldy fruits. Harden off both fall and spring sowings to develop their full flavor. Other likely problems include birds ▶ Dainty crop ◀ Raising from seed (see p.209 and p.252), squirrels (see Alpine strawberries are quite Collect seeds from dried alpine p.262), verticillium wilt (see p.263), hardy and will happily seed strawberries, removing them strawberry seed beetle (see p.263), themselves around the garden. by rolling the fruits between and red core (see p.261). If red spider The tiny fruits are not as sweet thumb and fingers (see left). mite (including the greenhouse species) as those of garden cultivars, but Keep in a paper package in a is a problem, buy in natural predators nonetheless a useful crop. The cool, dry place. Sow the seed (see p.261). Avoid wet mulches if slugs plants also make a good ground in fall or spring in seed compost, and snails (p.262) are present, and cover in a potager garden. covered with sharp sand. Keep encourage natural predators. Plastic shaded at 65–75°F (18–24°C). sheet mulches can harbor vine weevil (p.263). To avoid powdery mildew (p.260), which affects protected crops and perpetuals, maintain good ventilation and watering. Strawberry blossom weevil may affect late-summer fruiting cultivars. The weevils nip off individual f lowers, reducing the crop. If the problem is not serious, beneficial insects may be able to control the weevils. Otherwise, use an insecticide spray, before f lowers open and avoiding pollinating insects. The capsid bug (p.253) may cause fruit malformation on perpetuals. Pick off any insects as you see them.
RASPBERRY, BLACKBERRY, AND HYBRID BERRIES 215 Raspberry, blackberry, and hybrid berries Cane fruits are so called because they Types of cane fruit berry flower and fruit on sideshoots of long, vigorous canes. These fruits include raspberries (Rubus idaeus), blackberries (R. fruticosus), and many hybrid berries. The hybrids include loganberries, boysenberries, and tayberries, among others, and result from crosses between species within the Rubus genus. Some are less vigorous than blackberries, Raspberry Blackberry Loganberry Boysenberry Tayberry while others are thornless—both qualities making them ideal for the fruit or ornamental garden. They have the midsummer to early fall. With some PREPARING THE SITE same cultivation needs as blackberries. protection from frosts and cold, fall- Plant quality, good soil drainage, and Raspberries have a life expectancy of fruiting raspberries can fruit into early depth of planting are critical for the up to 10 years, while blackberries may winter, and when summer-fruiting success of cane fruits. To prepare remain productive for 15 years. Most cane fruits are potted up and brought the soil, start by digging the whole cane fruits flower and fruit on canes under protection in midwinter they area (see pp.37–40) and removing produced in the previous year; fall- can be forced, with gentle heat, to weeds. Incorporate organic matter such fruiting cultivars fruit on canes grown produce fruit by mid-spring (see below). as well-rotted manure or compost. A soil in the same year. Raspberries produce It is feasible for the amateur to produce analysis (see p.17) will indicate whether upright growth—with the exception these succulent fruits for eight or nine more fertilizer, particularly phosphate of the Artic raspberry, which has trailing months of the year. The fruits also store and potash, needs to be added. canes ideal for ground cover. Hybrid well when frozen. Raspberries in particular require good berries and blackberries have longer Cane fruits like full sun but blackberries drainage (see p.16). On heavy soils, cane growth, requiring more attention to tolerate partial shade, particularly where fruits can be planted in a raised bed to training and support to keep it off the the summer temperatures improve drainage, soil warming, and soil. Cane fruits are a useful addition are high. Shelter from rooting depth. Fall-fruiting raspberries to the fruit garden, since they flower wind (see pp.12–13) is need a warm, sunny position to ripen later than most other fruits and so usually important to reduce before the first frosts. avoid frost damage. Fruiting is from damage to fruiting canes. Think at this stage about what kind of support structure you would like to Potting early raspberry canes use (see p.216), although erection of the support systems can wait until the 1In midwinter, lift unpruned fall following planting. Cane fruits are canes and trim off any dead traditionally planted in rows with or damaged wood. Check that 1 freestanding supports to prevent wind each plant has at least 1 good damage; it is also possible to train them bud on the roots and a good root on horizontal wires against a wall or system. Pot 2 or 3 canes into a fence. Raspberries are usually planted 10in (10 liter) pot, using a light, to form continuous rows of canes, while, free-draining potting compost. for ease of training, blackberries and Fill around the roots with compost, hybrids are planted and maintained ensuring the rootball is about 2–3in as individual plants. (5–8cm) below soil level, firm well, and water in. Planting and training in a spiral around a single, stout post (less vigorous 2 Cut the canes to a bud at cultivars, for example, the thornless about 4ft (1.2m). Grow under loganberry are best for this) or vertically protection for a crop in mid-spring. up an arch (see p.216) are other space- For pollination and fruit set, either saving options that add an interesting introduce insects or use a hair dryer on a cool setting to feature to the garden, making the most redistribute pollen at flowering. 2 of the plants’ decorative features. For example, the blackberry ‘Veronique’ has
216 SOFT FRUIT CROPS pink-purple flowers, while blackberry PLANTING RASPBERRIES container-grown plants since the root ‘Oregon Thornless’ has attractively cut system is already well-established. leaves with good fall color. When planting, space raspberry plants 14–18in (35–45cm) apart along the Raspberries can also be planted in CHOOSING PLANTS row. The space between rows depends containers for early fruits (see p.215), or Choose plants from a certified source so on the vigor of the cultivar; allow to overcome poor soil conditions, such that they are vigorous, free of pests and 5–6ft (1.5–2m) for summer-fruiting as drainage. The pots can be brought in diseases, and of a named cultivar. Each cultivars. A row of fall-fruiting from the risk of frost when in f lower. new plant should have a stem of pencil raspberries needs to be at least 6ft (2m) thickness, or 1⁄4–1⁄2in (7–10mm), with a away from other fruits; the wider row PLANTING BLACKBERRIES fibrous root system showing at least one is to produce enough fruit at each AND HYBRID BERRIES white bud. This bud should produce a picking since fall-fruiting raspberries Prepare the ground (see pp.37–40). It new cane soon after planting. crop less abundantly than others. is simplest to erect the supports before planting since the canes will require Raspberries may be bought bare-root To encourage new canes to emerge support in their first summer. Spacing or container-grown; blackberries and and grow to their optimum height, for blackberries and hybrid berries hybrid berries are usually bought as plant raspberries no deeper than varies widely. A moderately vigorous container-grown plants. Plant bare-root 2–3in (5–8cm); use the soil mark cultivar needs 8–11ft (2.5–3.5m) raspberry canes in late fall or early in on the stem as a guide. On bare-root between plants. A particularly vigorous winter. If soil conditions are poor, with plants, cut any long roots back to 8in blackberry cultivar may need up to freezing or waterlogging, delay planting (20cm) before planting to promote 13ft (4.5m) to allow enough space to to late winter or early spring. Container- new root growth, and spread the roots train the much longer canes. Plant the grown plants can be planted at any time horizontally. After firming in, cut canes so that the rootball is covered of the year. the cane to 12in (30cm) from soil with about 3in (8cm) of soil. level; leave the cane unpruned on Supports for summer-fruiting raspberries, blackberries, and hybrids These systems are all ideal for summer-fruiting raspberries, while the Structure requires more Scandinavian system stool system is best for blackberries and hybrid berries. All cane fruits space than others Wrap new canes around can be grown over an arch to form a compact and decorative feature. 1 of the 2 parallel wires Of the row systems, the hedgerow system takes the least space and and tie them in to form a produces the highest yield. The stool system is the easiest to manage, V-shaped row. The following with good light and air and access for weed control. For supports, use year’s canes will grow up preservative-treated posts 3in (75mm) in diameter and 8ft (2.5m) long through the center of the (30in/75cm driven into the soil) at the ends of rows, plus intermediate fruiting canes, allowing you posts up to 30ft (10m) apart if needed. Use galvanized 12 gauge or clear access for picking 1⁄8in (3.5mm) thick wires. the fruit. Wires 2ft (60cm) Double wire Rows of posts 3ft Cross wire helps Stool system apart vertically (90cm) apart to brace 2 Remove all but 6 or 7 Strut helps to take parallel wires canes per plant, and tie Tips of canes strain of wires and Stooled plant these to the wires in a fan should be cut off weight of canes Hedgerow system shape to give improved After fruiting, cut out ventilation and light levels. in early spring unwanted canes and tie Prune the tops of canes to in new canes 4in (10cm) 6in (15cm) above the top apart to the 2 sets of wires. wire or loop them over and Prune the tops of the canes tie in (see also p.210). to 6in (15cm) above the top wire in early spring or, for a higher yield, twist them in. Double post-and-wire Wires 2ft (60cm) apart Training over an arch system vertically for raspberries, Train new canes over Tie strings between 2 wires the arch and tie them in to create a support “net” 18in (45cm) apart with garden twine. There for new canes. Use a for blackberries should be no need to second tier of wires and trim the cane tops. With string for strong cultivars. Canes this system, it may be The fruit canes are not tied firmly tied difficult to separate in, so this method is not to support fruiting and nonfruiting suitable for windy sites. with string canes, so picking may be less easy. String at intervals of 18in (45cm)
RASPBERRY, BLACKBERRY, AND HYBRID BERRIES 217 Looping canes over wires canes and tie them in with a figure-eight knot be a source of pests and diseases; also, to the top wire. This keeps them secure against they can suffer from windrock, where When training in the new raspberry canes winter winds. Tip prune any weaker canes. the wind causes the rocking cane to that remain after the fruited canes have create a hole at soil level that fills with been removed, loop over the long, pliable thorns. Thornless cultivars are more water, causing the roots to die. amenable to work with and safer when TRAINING CANE FRUITS grown over a structure such as an arch. Canes of summer-fruiting raspberries Careful training is essential for healthy, flower and fruit in their second year. productive cane fruits. It helps to Raspberries can also be woven, or Cut off those that have fruited at soil protect the canes from wind damage, looped over (see above) for the winter. level in early to mid-fall. Select new and separates the new from the fruiting Tip prune the canes in spring to about canes of pencil thickness and thicker canes, making harvesting and pruning 6in (15cm) above the topmost wire. and tie or train them into the supports. easier and decreasing the risk of diseases Fall-fruiting raspberries do not need Remove thin canes and any that do passing from old to new canes. Training such elaborate supports because their not reach the lowest support wire or also allows sufficient light and air to canes are cut down over the winter. are growing more than 8in (20cm) circulate around the canes, discouraging A post and single string system along away from the center of the row. pests and diseases. either side of the row should support canes with ripening fruit and stop To reduce the egg-laying activity There are several training systems them from flopping over. of the raspberry cane borer, which from which to choose (see facing page); causes raspberry cane blight (see p.260), you need to consider the space available PRUNING CANE FRUITS cut off new canes of summer raspberries and vigor of the cultivar. Pruning is important to remove fruited when they are 8in (20cm) tall. New canes and promote new cane growth growth will emerge about two weeks Since blackberries and hybrid from the roots. If left, the old canes can later; the delay will be enough to allow berries tend to be more vigorous than fruit to be picked from the previous raspberries, they require more training. year’s wood, while the new shoot tips There are several training systems that will often emerge after the egg-laying leave room for new canes that will bear period of the raspberry cane borer. next year’s crop to grow upward and be kept separate from currently fruiting Since fall-fruiting raspberries flower canes. A basic fan shape (see p.210) is and fruit on canes produced in the same good for less vigorous cultivars; new season, all the canes need to be cut off canes grow up through the center. at soil level in late winter. To extend Fruiting canes can also be trained in the fruiting period into early winter, one direction along the wires to leave immediately remove fruited canes to space for training the new canes in the encourage replacements. Alternatively, opposite direction. Vigorous cultivars for an extra, late spring crop of fruit with pliable canes can be woven in in the new year, cut off the fruited tips horizontal wave shapes and attached of the canes in late winter. to the wires to save space; again, the new canes grow up through the middle. Prune blackberries and hybrids as for Wear gloves to handle cultivars with summer-fruiting raspberries, but leave new canes tied together with soft string attached to the wires over winter for frost protection. Untie them and retrain them to replace the old canes in spring just before they start into growth. Cutting back canes after fruiting Prune fruited canes to ground level after fruiting, leaving no stubs to harbor rot. With summer-fruiting raspberries, blackberries, and hybrid berries, take care to keep from damaging the new season’s canes. Select the best of these to keep and train in, and prune out the others. For fall-fruiting raspberries, prune out all of the canes.
218 SOFT FRUIT CROPS ROUTINE CARE Picking cane fruits Pick blackberries (left) and hybrid berries Watering is particularly beneficial as complete with core, or plug, and stalk; the core the fruit starts to change color, and will is edible and helps the fruit to keep its shape. markedly improve the size and weight Raspberries for show exhibits need to be picked of fruit. Water the soil to avoid wetting with core and stalk. Pick raspberries for eating the fruit and new canes which could and storing by gripping each fruit between the provide a possible site for diseases. fingertips and, with a gentle squeeze, pulling it from the core. Always inspect fruits for raspberry Hoeing off weeds may damage beetle larvae before eating. surface roots, so use mulches instead. Apply organic mulches in early spring. and ripen from late summer to the Raspberry A black sheet mulch (see p.208) will first frosts. Rain causes fruits to rot without core smother weeds and emerging new and shortens the fruiting period, so a canes, allowing only stronger and better raincover (see p.209) will ensure good Blackberry with core quality growth through the planting fruit and may extend fruiting into holes. Top-dress annually in spring early winter. Yields from blackberries COMMON PROBLEMS with a balanced compound fertilizer and hybrids can reach 15–20lb per Cane spot (see p.253) and fungal leaf spots (see p.20) from the second year onward. 10ft (6.75–9kg per 3m) row. (see p.257) may affect raspberries; resistant cultivars are available. Raspberries may Control numbers of new canes in The best time to eat the berries also suffer from raspberry cane blight the growing season to keep the crop is freshly picked on a warm evening. (p.217 and p.260), raspberry leaf and bud within bounds and to produce fewer Pick the fruit every two or three days mite (see pp.261), birds (see p.252) on early but better quality canes for the to prevent any overripe fruit from raspberries, and raspberry viruses (see following year. Summer-fruiting rotting and spreading disease. Fruit p.261). Other problems on cane fruits raspberries grown as rows need 10 can be bagged to avoid desiccation are: raspberry beetle (see p.260), raspberry canes per 3ft (1m) of row, and stool and kept in a fridge for two or three spur blight (see p.261), botrytis (see p.252), systems 7 to 10 canes per stool. The days. It can be frozen for eating and and chlorosis (see p.254). Rusts (pp.261– more vigorous blackberries and processing when thawed. 262) are unlikely to be serious. Red hybrids can retain up to 24 canes spider mite (see p.261) may affect plants in per stool and still fruit well. Remove warm, sheltered sites. Bushy dwarf virus, unwanted new canes by pulling spread by aphids (see p.251), reduces the them or digging them out, or cut height and vigor of cane fruits. them off at soil level. Fall-fruiting canes do not need thinning. RECOMMENDED CANE FRUIT CULTIVARS To protect f lowers and the soft new cane from frost, drape burlap or f leece over a support structure. Ventilate well during the day. When fruits start to change color, exclude birds (see p.209). PROPAGATION Summer-fruiting raspberry ‘Darrow’ Long harvest, large berries and Cane fruits can be propagated by lifting ‘Encore’ Good winter hardiness and yields. gourmet blackberry flavor. new canes along with their rootballs, ‘Heritage’ The most popular red raspberry cutting them away from the main row ‘Loch Ness’ Erect, thornless canes. of canes, and replanting. Shoot tips of plant on the market. Compact habit. blackberries and hybrid berries root ‘Malling Jewel’ Early. Well-established with naturally when in contact with the ‘Silvan’ Good tolerance of heavy soil, wind, soil. They can be cut away once rooted compact growth and reasonable yields. and drought. Large fruit. Thorns. and replanted. If necessary, pin down ‘Prelude’ A very early raspberry that seems shoot ends to encourage rooting. ‘Triple Crown’ Named for its three crowning Choose only newly planted, disease- to be gaining in popularity across attributes: flavor, productivity, vigor. free stock from which to propagate. the country. ‘Tulameen’ Mid- to late season. Good flavor Hybrid berries HARVESTING AND STORING and yields. CANE FRUITS Fall-fruiting raspberry Boysenberry Thornless. Large purplish fruit. Summer cultivars will ripen for picking Japanese wineberry (Chinese blackberry) by midsummer, yielding between ‘Autumn Bliss’ Heavy crops of large fruits 4lb 8oz–6lb 12oz (2–3kg) per 3ft (1m) with firm texture and good flavor. Stakes Canes 6ft (2m) long, covered with soft, red of row. Fall-fruiting raspberries, yield need minimum support. bristles. Fruits golden yellow ripening to up to 2lb 4oz (1kg) per 3ft (1m) of row red, with a sweet, juicy, and refreshing taste. ‘Joan J’ Earliest thornless fall-fruiting red Loganberry ‘LY 59’ Thorns. Medium vigor. raspberry; is a super yielder. Long, acidic fruit. Loganberry ‘LY 654’ Thornless. Blackberry Tayberry Early, heavy crops. Thorns. Tayberry ‘Buckingham’ Thornless. Sweet- ‘Chester’ One of the best self-pollinating tasting fruit excellent for jam. blackberry varieties available.
GOOSEBERRY 219 Gooseberry Up to 3,000 gooseberry cultivars (Ribes Planting gooseberries 1Dig a hole large enough uva-crispa) have been recorded since the for the rootball. Position it 1700s and there are currently up to 150 12 so that the soil mark on the in cultivation. New cultivars overcome stem is level with the surface. some of the hazards of growing Gooseberries need good drainage; gooseberries, such as mildew and leaf they tolerate slightly alkaline soils and 2 Fill with soil, firm, and spot, and the fierce spines. The berries some shade. Since they flower very water. Make sure there is are the earliest soft fruits of the year, early in the year, do not plant them 4–8in (10–20cm) of leg clear and may be red, green, or yellow and in a frost pocket (see p.11). Shelter (see below the branches. If planting suitable for both cooking and eating pp.12–13) is also needed to protect in fall or winter, do not prune until fresh as a dessert. The natural growth the brittle new shoots from wind. spring. If planting in early spring, habit varies from upright to pendent Gooseberries flourish in containers, as here, select 5 main stems; (weeping), depending on the cultivar. a good option where garden soil is prune to 6–8in (15–23cm). poorly drained. Plants in containers Remove surplus stems. Gooseberries are amenable to various brought under cover in late winter forms of training. A gooseberry is most will start into growth earlier and crop PREPARING THE SITE often grown as a bush on a short “leg” Prepare soil by digging in a 1–2in that raises the level of the branches to in the late spring. (2.5–5cm) layer of well-rotted organic make fruit picking and care easier. It matter. Double-dig heavy, poorly can also be grown as a standard on a drained soils (see p.39). Before planting, longer leg, or trained on a freestanding take a soil sample to check pH and support or against a wall as a single- nutrient levels (see p.17). Incorporate stemmed or multistemmed cordon, compound granular fertilizer into the or fan. On posts and wires in the open, top 4–8in (15–20cm) where required. cordons and fans are dramatic features when the sun shines through them. PLANTING Gooseberry bushes can be bought as A standard plant allows the site to be bare-root or container-grown plants. used more efficiently since strawberries, Choose plants with 4–8in (10–20cm) bedding plants, and vegetables can be of clear stem (leg) above the roots, and planted underneath. For a standard, at least four or five young branches. choose a vigorous cultivar, or, if you Bushes grown as standards are also want to grow a less vigorous one, available to purchase ready trained and, buy it grafted onto a rootstock of where necessary, already grafted. Ribes aureum. Plant bare-root bushes between One-year-old, Current season’s fall and early spring. Container-grown fruiting wood growth, which plants can be planted all year round, will fruit in but need plentiful watering to help Two-year- following year the bushes establish. For improved old wood weed control and moisture retention, lay a plastic sheet mulch and plant The fruiting habit of gooseberries the gooseberries through slits in the Gooseberries fruit on one-year-old wood plastic (see p.208). Since gooseberries and older spurs. Spur pruning encourages are a long-term crop, lasting up to fruiting spurs. Renewal pruning (see p.220) 10 years, the plastic needs to be removes older wood for a balanced shape. thick or covered with a layer of bark chippings or gravel. Plant bushes 4–5ft (1.2–1.5m) apart. Space single-stemmed cordons 12–16in (30–40cm) apart; for a multistemmed cordon, allow an extra 12in (30cm) for each additional arm. Space plants to be fan-trained 5ft (1.5m) apart. For standards, stake at planting with a sturdy stake tall enough to reach the top of the
220 SOFT FRUIT CROPS Renewal pruning an established bush The primary goal of renewal pruning an ▲ Removing old branches Remove crossing branches established bush is to maintain eight to Use loppers to remove a proportion of Take out branches that cross ten well-spaced branches. The balanced old, unproductive branches, cutting center, restricting light and air shape allows light and air to penetrate, them back to their base. especially during summer, to encourage Keep leg clear new growth and prevent the onset of Remove shoots diseases such as botrytis (see p.252) and growing less than American gooseberry mildew (see p.251). 4in (10cm) from It also makes it easier to pick the fruit. the ground Prune in early spring to allow the identification and removal of wood that may ◀ Creating a balanced shape not have any buds or is dead due to disease. Aim to remove no more than one-third Remove also shoots where the buds look of branches, including crowded, wispy and have not fully closed over winter crossing, weak, and damaged ones. due to mildew. Additional pruning in summer improves the air circulation, reducing the risk of fungus disease, and produces fewer but larger fruits. Cut back new stems arising from the main stems by half in midsummer. If you wish, you can cut the same stems back to two healthy buds in early spring. stem at its final height. For details about near the top of the stem, remove HARVESTING GOOSEBERRIES how to prepare a container, see p.208. all others, then train as for a bush. A mature bush should yield 7–10lb Train cordons and fans as for red (3.5–4.5kg). A single cordon bears up PRUNING AND TRAINING currants (see pp.221–222). to 2lb 4oz (1kg). Protected plants ripen GOOSEBERRIES fruit by late spring and fruit until early Tailor your pruning cuts to the habit of ROUTINE CARE AND PROPAGATION summer. For early fruits for cooking the cultivar. Cut to an outward-facing Water in dry periods, especially as fruits on outdoor plants, thin alternate fruits bud on an upright cultivar, and to an swell, using 6–11 gallons/sq yd (25–50 when they are 1⁄2in (12mm) long in upward-facing bud on a pendent one. liters/sq m) each time. Gooseberries early summer. Leave the others to ripen are prone to potassium deficiency. Add for harvesting later in the summer. Pick When pruning a bush after planting sulfate of potash at 1⁄2oz/sq yd (15g/ fruit with a short stalk, otherwise the (see p.219), aim to obtain a vase-shaped sq m) in late winter, with a balanced skin may tear when pulled off its stalk. bush of four or five evenly spaced fertilizer. Mulch against weeds in early branches. Leaving pruning until spring to mid-spring with a well-rotted COMMON PROBLEMS enables the removal of any winter manure or compost. A healthy bush Problems include gooseberry sawfly (see damage, and ensures the good healing will produce fewer suckers—shoots at p.256), capsid bug (see p.253), American of cuts. Prune a two-year-old bush in ground level—than one under stress. gooseberry mildew (see p.251), botrytis spring, cutting back the new growth at Pull off any suckers with a gloved hand; (see p.252), fungal leaf spot (see p.257), the end of each branch by half. Cut out cutting them off will encourage more aphids (see p.251), birds (see p.252), any new shoots that are surplus to the suckers to grow the following year. squirrels (see p.262), caterpillars (p.253), permanent framework, and those that and gooseberry dieback (see p.256). are crowding or crossing the center. Bring container-grown plants in f lower under cover for frost protection. RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS Once the bush is established you can Outside, use f leece or plastic sheeting prune it in one of two ways. Renewal draped over the plants to protect them ‘Invicta’ Green culinary cultivar. Heavy pruning (see above) aims to encourage from frost or, from winter onward, to cropping and mildew-resistant. new, well-spaced shoot growth, while advance the crop. All gooseberries need spur pruning (see p.210) is a much more netting (see p.209) against bullfinches, ‘Jahns Prairie’ Dessert cultivar; globose detailed method concentrating on the which feed on dormant f lower buds in green fruit turns red-pink upon ripening. production of fruiting spurs. late fall to mid-spring, and blackbirds, which feed on ripening fruit. ‘Pixwell’ Big green berries ripen to pale To train a standard, take the strongest pink for tempting pies and preserves. vertical stem and tie it to the planting To propagate gooseberries, take stake. Shorten other shoots to one hardwood cuttings from healthy wood ‘Poorman’ Old American variety (1888); bud. When the main stem is 2–4ft as for black currants (see p.224), making produces medium-sized fruit. (60cm–1.2m) tall, cut off the tip. Next the cuttings about 12in (30cm) long. year, select 4–5 evenly spaced shoots ‘Tixia’ Culinary/dessert cultivar. Jumbo bright-red fruits on nearly thornless canes.
RED CURRANT AND WHITE CURRANT 221 Red currant and white currant These deciduous shrubs (Ribes rubrum) shade is tolerated and plants can be to stakes attached to the support wires. form attractive ornamental plants, trained against a north-facing fence For preparing a container, see p.208. especially when the fruits are ripening. or wall; the fruits will be later and Red currant cultivars, old and new, have less f lavor than those from plants PRUNING AND TRAINING display incredible shades of scarlet as in the sun. A well-drained, fertile Pruning of red and white currants the fruit ripens, while white currants soil is needed, with a slightly acid mainly takes place in early spring. are pure white through cream to almost or neutral pH (see p.18). Always cut carefully to a healthy bud yellow when ripe. The fruits are borne to promote quick healing, because these in dense trusses, known as “strigs.” The PREPARING THE SITE AND PLANTING plants are particularly prone to botrytis strigs show considerable differences in Soil preparation, planting, and spacing, (see p.252) and the subsequent coral length and fruit size, and can be used is as for gooseberries (see pp.219–220). spot canker (see p.254). In summer it for table decoration as well as in Improve poor drainage (see p.16) in is possible to snap off the new season’s summer desserts, jellies, and sauces. particular, since red and white currants growth, and this seems to cause fewer do not tolerate waterlogging. dieback problems than cutting them Red and white currants fruit at the off. Prune bushes as for gooseberries base of the previous year’s shoots, and Buy healthy bushes from a reliable (see p.220). on spurs on older wood. They can be source. A one-year-old plant is the least grown in bush form on a leg, or as expensive option; two- and three-year- PRUNING A RED CURRANT OR single- or multistemmed cordons and old trained bushes are also available. A WHITE CURRANT CORDON fans where space is restricted or for For pruning and training a single cordon, their interesting shapes. Growing under Cordons and fans require a support see below. A double cordon has two cover results in fruits about two weeks system of horizontal wires, attached to vertical main shoots in a “U” shape. To earlier than unprotected bushes. freestanding posts or to a wall or fence. start training a double cordon, look for Position the first wire at 2ft (60cm) two strong shoots that are nearly opposite Choose a sunny site with shelter above soil level, and fix subsequent ones each other. Cut back the central shoot to (see pp.12–13) from strong winds. at 2ft (60cm) intervals. On planting, Avoid frost pockets (see p.11). Partial tie the stems and required branches Pruning red currant cordons 1In early spring following planting the main stem rather than on growth, or by half if growth is weak. a one-year-old plant, cut the extending the shoots. If the shoots Cut to a bud on the opposite side to main vertical stem back by half have developed sideshoots, cut or the previous year’s cut to keep the of the previous year’s growth. pinch these to 1 leaf. Repeat this growth straight. Once the cordon is Cut other shoots back to 1 bud. pruning each summer. at the desired height, cut to 1 bud of new growth each year in early 2 In the summer after planting, 3In early spring in subsequent summer. Prune the shoots from the shorten the new growth on years, keep pruning the new main stem and any other sideshoots the shoots. This concentrates the growth on the main vertical stem to build up fruiting spur systems. plant’s growth on strengthening by a quarter of the previous year’s Tie in new Shorten new shoots Pruning spurs growth When the shoots pruned Each year cut back to stake the previous winter have the shoots pruned the about 8 leaves, shorten previous summer to Top of original them to 5 leaves, either 1 bud. As spur systems cutting; growth by breaking them off or build up, thin any above was made pruning the shoots. unproductive sections previous year by cutting them out. 3 Shoots cut Prune to 1 bud sideshoots to 1 bud 12 Keep bottom 4in (10cm) clear of shoots
222 SOFT FRUIT CROPS just above the higher of these two. Trim even framework of shoots of the same Fan-trained red currant to two leaves any shoots below the length. Prune each permanent shoot as With a fan you are aiming for chosen two, and remove them altogether for a cordon (see p.221), ensuring that several well-spaced shoots with in summer. Tie the two shoots to stakes the tips of the main shoots are cut to the permanent sideshoots to fill the fixed to the wires at an angle of 30°. same height to stop the middle, vertical available space and provide When each shoot tip is 12in (30cm) stems becoming dominant. an even covering. Five main from the main leg, train the new growth shoots are usually trained, but vertically up stakes attached to the wires. ROUTINE CARE AND PROPAGATION the number is often determined From then on, treat each vertical arm as In late winter apply 1⁄2oz/sq yd (15g/ by the vigor of the new growth, a single cordon (see p.221). Keep each sq m) of sulfate of potash or bonfire with extra shoots trained to divert arm cut to the same height to avoid one ash. On light sandy or poor soils, apply excessive vigor. A wall or fence growing more dominant than the other. a balanced compound fertilizer (see p.20) will provide extra shelter for the at the same time. In early to mid-spring, fan, so that pollination and For a triple cordon, which has a as the soil starts to warm up, put down netting are easier, and the fruit central vertical stem plus one on either a 1–2in (2.5–5cm) thick organic mulch should ripen more quickly. side, start by selecting three well- (see p.41). In dry conditions, water the positioned shoots. Train the central one soil beforehand, using 6–12 gallons/ (see p.209) as the fruits change color. as for a single cordon (see p.221), and sq yd (25–50 liters/sq m). Mulch under To propagate red and white currants, the shoots on either side as for a double the plant as far as the farthest tips of the take hardwood cuttings about 12in cordon. Keep the middle vertical shoot branches. Water with similar amounts (30cm) long from healthy wood, as cut to the same height as the other two of water in summer as fruits start to for black currants (see p.224). so that it does not become dominant. swell and ripen. As the three vertical arms develop, HARVESTING RED- prune each as for a single cordon. Fork out perennial weeds when OR WHITE CURRANTS the soil is moist or treat them with a Plants grown under protection can be PRUNING AND TRAINING A RED- systemic chemical weedkiller directed ready for picking in early summer. Those OR A WHITE CURRANT FAN away from the crop. Pull off any suckers grown outside will be ready from mid- To train a fan, select up to five strong by hand. Net the bushes against birds to late summer. A mature bush may yield lateral shoots after planting. Prune 9–11lb (4–5kg) and a single cordon up to out the central vertical stem above the 2lb 4oz (1kg) of fruit. Most cultivars are topmost lateral. Train the laterals on thin-skinned and it is difficult to pick either side of the main stem on stakes individual fruits without squashing and at 45° attached to support wires. Cut tearing them. Instead, use scissors to each back by half. In summer, select sever the entire strig from the bush. several well-spaced sideshoots on each shoot and train in to form permanent COMMON PROBLEMS ribs to the fan. Keep the shape balanced Aphid infestation (p.251) is seen as and remove overvigorous shoots. red blistered foliage on young shoots. Other problems include birds (p.252), In the second spring, shorten shoots capsid bug (p.253), gooseberry sawfly and ribs by half and sideshoots to one (p.256), botrytis (p.252), mostly on bud. Fill in gaps by training in more fruits, coral spot canker (p.254), fungal shoots in the following summer for an leaf spots (p.257). Red currant RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS in flower The flowers on ‘Blanka’ Late season. Very long strigs. this red currant are ‘Jonkheer van Tets’ Very heavy, early crop displayed to their best advantage since of large, red berries. the plant is trained ‘Junifer’ Earliest ripening with long trusses as a fan. The contrast between the boldly of high-quality red currants. High yielding shaped leaves and and good disease resistance. delicate flowers is ‘Red Lake’ Heavy crops of long, easy-to- one of the more pick strigs of red berries. ornamental features ‘Rovada’ Heavy crops of large, beautiful of this plant. translucent red berries in long clusters. ‘Versailles Blanche’ Large, light yellow, sweet-tasting fruit. Upright growth. ‘White Imperial’ Beautiful, medium-sized translucent white fruit.
BLACK CURRANT 223 Black currant Easy to grow and very productive, black Planting depth for black currants currants (Ribes nigrum) produce delicious clusters, or “strigs,” of fruits that are Basal buds full of vitamin C. They form large, rather straggly bushes that can reach ▲ Judging the planting depth Planting level up to 6ft (2m) in height and spread. Use a length of wood across the planting Cover roots and Their flowers are insignificant but, hole to check the planting level. This stems with soil particularly after rain, the foliage of container-grown bush is being planted to this point these deciduous shrubs has a wonderful 2in (5cm) deeper than it was in its pot. scent. New cultivars developed in Basal buds Scotland, known as the Ben Series, ▶ Planting a bare-root bush Plant should have at possess increased resistance to cold Make a hole large enough to spread the least 3 or 4 healthy temperatures and, because they flower roots and deep enough to cover the stems buds at base of stems later than the traditional cultivars such as to 2in (5cm) above the nursery soil mark, ‘Baldwin’ and ‘Wellington XXX’, the to encourage the basal buds to shoot. flowers and fruits are likely to survive the spring frosts. Jostaberries, hybrids and ‘Ben Nevis’, can be grown on a One-year-old plants of black currants and gooseberries, are short leg, as for gooseberries (see p.220) are available, but only cultivated as for black currants. and red currants, to control their growth two-year-olds are certified disease-free in restricted spaces, and to provide an and of the named cultivar. It is advisable Black currants fruit best on strong, attractive, goblet-shaped bush. to buy a certified plant to avoid viruses, young shoots produced the previous to which black currants are particularly summer and, to a lesser extent, on Black currants tolerate a wide range prone. Plant bare-root plants from fall two-year-old and older wood. They of soils, including slightly alkaline ones, to spring, preferably in fall. Container- are usually grown as stooled, or multi- but the soil needs to be highly fertile and grown plants can be planted at any stemmed, bushes with plenty of new moisture-retentive. Being heavy feeders, time, but need copious watering to growth from soil level being stimulated they demand plenty of organic matter aid establishment in summer. by annual hard pruning. Very vigorous to give sufficient nutrients and to hold cultivars, such as ‘Wellington XXX’ an adequate supply of water. Slightly It is crucial to plant both bare-root impeded drainage is tolerated, but they and container-grown black currants at Young wood has smooth, prefer a site that is free from frost and about 2in (5cm) lower than the nursery brown bark, and fruits in sheltered from cold, damaging winds soil mark. This stimulates the plant’s (see pp.12–13). natural habit of producing vigorous following year new shoots from the base; these young An alternative growing method is shoots are vital to ensure a productive, Two-year-old to plant black currants in containers stooled bush (see above). Space plants and older so that they can be brought under cover 5–6ft (1.5–2m) apart, except the dwarf wood has gray, to protect them against cold winds at cultivar ‘Ben Sarek’, which needs only peeling bark flowering, ensuring good pollination 4ft (1.2m) between plants. For planting and fruit set. They can also be kept in containers, see p.208. Stalks that under cover from winter to early carried strigs summer to bring forward cropping. PRUNING AND TRAINING BLACK of fruit may be CURRANTS visible on two- PLANTING When planting a bare-root black currant year-old wood Prepare the soil well by removing in winter or spring, cut all shoots back perennial weeds (see p.49) and digging to two buds 1in (2.5cm) above soil Stages of growth in a 2in (5cm) layer of well-rotted level to help the roots establish. If the Aim to keep as much of the smooth, young compost or farmyard manure. wood as you can when pruning. Some of the older, peeling wood is cut out, although it will fruit a second time and may bear new shoots.
224 SOFT FRUIT CROPS Pruning a black currant bush in winter ◀ Cutting to the base Remove a quarter of stems to within 1in (2.5cm) of soil level to generate young growth. Cut out weak and crowded branches and those drooping toward the soil. Retain a mixture of one- year-old and older wood, both of which can be recognized by their color (see p.223). ◀ Before pruning ▶ After pruning The center of this bush is crowded, This pruned bush has a balanced allowing little light and air to circulate shape, with unproductive older between the stems, and so encouraging wood removed, and the disease and making ripening slower. remaining stems thinned. bush is planted earlier, in fall, the roots watering system (see p.54). Birds like to fruits together along the strig. They can should establish before winter and you feed on ripe fruit, so it is essential to net therefore be picked as complete strigs, can leave half of the shoots unpruned black currants (see p.209) as fruits ripen. using scissors. Whole strigs are required to yield a small crop in the following for showing at competitions. summer. In general, do not prune Repot black currant bushes planted container-grown plants after planting; in containers every two or three years. COMMON PROBLEMS however, if they are planted in the As the plant grows larger and heavier, Possible problems include aphids summer and regular watering cannot it may be worth putting the pot on (see p.251), big bud mite (see p.252), be guaranteed, prune them as for fall a base with castors so that it is easy American gooseberry mildew (see bare-root plantings so that new growth to move under cover for protection p.251), birds (see p.252), black currant is initially concentrated in the roots. against frost or for protected cropping. gall midge (see p.252), capsid bug (see p.253), botrytis (see p.252), which Prune established black currant bushes PROPAGATION mostly affects the fruits, and reversion in winter, as shown above. Overgrown Prunings from newly planted certified disease (see p.261), transmitted by big and neglected bushes can be renovated plants can be used to propagate more bud mites. Fungal leaf spots (see p.257) by cutting down all of the branches to black currants; avoid using long- may occur but are seldom serious. soil level in fall, and applying a mulch established plants that may carry (see below) to provide nutrients for the disease. Make each cutting 8in (20cm) RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS roots. The subsequent new growth long, using a straight cut below a bud should be thinned to leave 8 to 12 at the base, and an angled cut above ‘Ben Hope’ Vigorous, upright bush, vigorous, young shoots. a bud at the top, removing the soft resistant to big bud mite. tip of the shoot. Push the hardwood ROUTINE CARE cutting into the soil or into cuttings ‘Ben Lomond’ Susceptible to mildew. Apply a balanced compound fertilizer in compost in a container. The cuttings Late-flowering and resistant to frost. early spring, plus extra nitrogen at a rate should root readily and produce several of 3⁄4oz/sq yd (25g/sq m). Spread a thick shoots to make a stooled bush. ‘Ben Sarek’ Small, compact bush mulch of mushroom or garden compost, that is resistant to mildew and frost. or well-rotted manure, around the plant HARVESTING Spreading branches may need support every spring to provide the required Fruit will ripen from midsummer when fruiting due to large size of fruit. nutrients and suppress weeds. through to early fall. Protected crops will ripen about two weeks earlier ‘Consort’ Outstanding hardiness and Black currants need a minimum of than those grown outside. Expect to a stronger flavor than red currants. 12 gallons/sq yd (50 liters/sq m) at each pick at least 10lb (4.5kg) of fruit per watering. Frequency of watering will bush when established. ‘Crandall’ Clove-scented yellow spring depend on the weather conditions and flowers and mahogany-red fall foliage. temperature, but it is particularly essential Older cultivars have fruits that ripen during dry spells and as the fruits start at different times along the strig. Pick Jostaberry This hybrid between a black to swell and color. To avoid disease these fruits individually, taking care currant and a gooseberry is resistant to infections, attempt to keep the base of the not to damage them, or they will not mildew, leaf spots, and big bud mites; bush dry by watering carefully onto store well. The newer Ben Series has black currant-type fruits, but twice the soil or laying down a low-pressure cultivars are bred to ripen all their the size. Thornless and very vigorous. ‘Titania’ Reaches full maturity in three seasons, as opposed to four or five with most other popular varieties.
BLUEBERRY 225 Blueberry American highbush blueberries shoots. Cut one or two unproductive PROPAGATION (Vaccinium corymbosum) are branching, branches to soil level each year, ideally Take 4–6in (10–15cm) cuttings of soft, deciduous shrubs that provide interest in spring when flower buds are obvious. healthy growth in midsummer. Trim for much of the year, with their white off the lower leaves. Insert the cuttings bell-shaped f lowers, dusty blue fruits, ROUTINE CARE into pots of one part peat and three parts and spectacular fall color. Some After pruning, apply a balanced coarse sand and place in a propagator. cultivars reach 6ft (2m). Blueberries compound fertilizer plus extra nitrogen Once they have rooted, transplant into need a light, free-draining, acid soil (sulfate of ammonia) at 1⁄2oz/sq yd pots, harden them off, and give a high- of pH 4–5.5. They prefer sun or partial (15g/sq m). To maintain a low pH and potash feed every 10 days. Plant in their shade and are relatively frost-hardy. suppress weeds, mulch (see p.41) in mid- final positions after about a year. Provide shelter (see pp.12–13) from cold spring with a 3–6in (8–15cm) layer of winds. For regular, heavier crops, plant acidic material, such as bark, old pine HARVESTING BLUEBERRIES more than one cultivar because they are needles, or peat. If chlorosis (see p.254) Harvest from late summer to early fall. only partially self-fertile. Blueberries shows in the leaves, top-dress soil with A bush will yield 5–11lb (2.25–5kg). may be planted as freestanding bushes, flowers of sulfur to lower the pH. Pick berries by gentle pulling. as part of a hedge, or in a container. Blueberries need copious amounts COMMON PROBLEMS PLANTING of water, preferably rainwater, which is Birds (see p.252), botrytis (p.252), and Soil pH (see p.18) is critical, so prepare acidic. Apply 12 gallons/sq yd (50 liters/ chlorosis (p.254) may cause problems. for planting well in advance. Neutral sq m) at each watering. If you have to to alkaline soil can be acidified, but this use alkaline tap water, monitor its effect RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS is laborious and hard to maintain. To on the soil, adjusting the sulfur top- lower the pH of alkaline soil, add peat, dressing as needed. Raised beds demand ‘Berkeley’ Large, firm fruits with a sweet sulfur (as flowers of sulfur), and sawdust more water. During flowering, either flavor. Golden stems in winter. individually or as a mix. Peat can be provide frost and wind protection in added to the planting hole prior to the form of fleece or plastic sheeting, or ‘Bluecrop’ Best all-around cultivar with planting; dig in the other additives a bring plants in containers under cover. large, mid-season fruit of good flavor. year before planting. Application rates depend on soil type and pH. Sawdust Repot blueberries in containers every ‘Coville’ Medium yields of very large fruit needs nitrogen to decompose, so two years in fall. The largest size you on large, spreading bush. reduces the amount in the soil. Add should need is a 12 gallon (50 liter) pot sulfate of ammonia at 1⁄2oz/sq yd for a bush about 5ft (1.5m) tall. ‘Herbert’ Very large, late fruit. High yields (15g/sq m) annually to counteract this. from a large, spreading bush. ▼ Maximizing the crop Alternatives to acidifying soil are Fruit buds are considerably to use a raised bed or container. A fatter than growth buds. When raised bed, 6–8in (15–20cm) high pruning, learn to recognize and and 5ft (1.5m) wide, aids drainage retain branches bearing more on badly drained soils and can be fruit buds since they are likely filled with peat-based compost. to crop more heavily. Prune Peat substitute may have a high out branches with a larger pH, so add flowers of sulfur to proportion of growth buds so lower it. In pots, use an ericaceous that the plant’s energies go compost with grit added. into producing fruit, not foliage. Container-grown Growth bud blueberries often establish more quickly than bare-root ones. Plant from fall to spring (see p.208). Space bushes 5ft (1.5m) apart. If planting in a container, start with a 2 quart (2 liter) pot and pot on in later years. PRUNING AND TRAINING BLUEBERRIES Fruit bud Prune after leaf drop. Follow the method for black currants ▲ Blueberry with heavy crop (see pp.223–224), pruning at soil Borne on large, attractive bushes, blueberry fruits are rather level to encourage strong, new bland to eat fresh, but keep well even in the freezer. When cooked, they make deliciously aromatic muffins and jam.
226 SOFT FRUIT CROPS Cranberry Fruiting cranberry Wild cranberries An evergreen, straggling, low-growing naturally grow in shrub, the cranberry (Vaccinium moorland and boggy macrocarpon) likes boggy soil conditions areas and those and so is well suited to poorly drained under cultivation gardens. Its wiry stems root along the require similarly ground, enabling the plant to spread acidic and moist readily. It needs soil with a low pH growing conditions to grow and fruit well, and prefers a in order to fruit well. sunny, fairly cool site. In addition to the red fruits, widely used for cranberry sauce, the bush provides good fall color. PLANTING at soil level to leave a single layer across 1in (2.5cm) layer of coarse, lime-free Cranberries are usually grown in the ground. Hedging shears can be used sand every three years after pruning to a sunken bed to maintain moist to trim top-growth, but a more detailed the bed surface to encourage the stems conditions, and a soil with a pH of pruning is needed every three years. to root, promoting plant vigor and fruit 4–5.5 (see below). Only container-grown yield. Maintain a low soil pH as for plants are available for planting. Plant at ROUTINE CARE AND PROPAGATION blueberries (see p.225). Cranberries can any time of year after saturating the bed Maintain the moisture content of the be propagated by layering: shoots will with water, or prepare the bed before bed with copious amounts of water in root naturally and can then be detached winter and plant in the spring. early to midsummer, using rainwater from the parent plant and replanted. if possible to keep pH low. Apply a PRUNING AND TRAINING CRANBERRIES HARVESTING CRANBERRIES Cranberries need pruning to thin the drainage of excess water. Fill the remaining The first cranberries will be ready to stems and keep plants within bounds. hole with a mix of two parts peat-free pick in early fall, but it is easier to wait Start once a plant covers the surface ericaceous compost and one part soil, until the majority of the fruit is ripe. of the bed. In fall after harvesting, trim avoiding heavy garden soil (which will not The yield may be as much as 1lb–1lb the bed edges to remove straggly stems. mix well) and alkaline soil. Alternatively, 8oz/sq yd (0.5–0.75kg/sq m). Either In early spring, prune to prevent use 100 percent peat-free ericaceous pick individual fruits by hand or, with overcrowding. Cut out excess stems compost or a suitable light, low pH soil. fingers spread, gently “comb” the fruits Finally, cover with a 1in (2.5cm) layer of off the stems. Store cranberries dry for Making a cranberry bed coarse, lime-free sand to act as a mulch up to three weeks at room temperature and so reduce the drying out of the bed and or three months in a refrigerator at Dig out the soil to a shovel blade’s depth control weeds. The mulch also encourages 36–39°F (2–4°C). Fruit will freeze for and about 3ft (1m) square. Line the pit the rooting of the stems as they grow. longer storage. with a sheet of fine proprietary plastic Water the bed regularly with rainwater. mesh to maintain water to a high level, COMMON PROBLEMS but allow drainage of excess moisture. Cranberry No problems affect cranberries except If the soil is particularly heavy and poor- possibly chlorosis (see p.254) on alkaline draining, dig the pit to 12in (30cm) 1in (2.5cm) sand soils, and birds (see p.252). deep, and lay a drainage pipe leading to a sump or ditch. Cover the pipe with Plastic mesh liner RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS a 3–4in (8–10cm) deep layer of coarse, lime-free aggregate and place a sheet 4in (10cm) ‘Ben Lear’ Burgundy-red color; prized for of fine plastic mesh over the aggregate aggregate early fruiting period and large size. to prevent the topsoil from blocking the ‘Early Black’ Early, dark red-black fruits. Heavy soil ‘McFarlin’ Large, dark red fruits covered Ericaceous with a thick, waxy bloom. compost or peat Slotted drainage pipe, 2in (5cm) diameter
GRAPE VINES 227 GRAPE VINES Planning series of fruiting sideshoots, or laterals, Grapes grown spaced about 9–12in (23–30cm) apart under cover Grape vines have been cultivated for along it, and supported on horizontal Many greenhouses thousands of years both for their sweet wires. The main stem can be as long and conservatories fruits, known as dessert grapes, and as can be accommodated in the space, are suitable for for wine-making. They probably but 6–12ft (2–3.6m) is usual. Single growing grape vines, arose in Asia Minor and the Caucasus cordons may be grown vertically or at provided that they region, and spread to Mediterranean an angle if under cover, or vertically are well-ventilated. In countries and North Africa. In cooler and then horizontally on an outdoor a small conservatory, climates than these, their outdoor pergola. Multiple cordons (see p.229) you can grow the cultivation is less reliable, but provided consist of two rods—a double cordon vines as a cordon that cultivars are carefully chosen and —or several vertical rods, 3–4ft along the central conditions are suitable they may be (1–1.2m) apart, produced from two ridge; in large green- grown successfully (see pp.231–232). horizontal stems. Horizontal branches houses, it is possible Grape vines grow and crop best in can also be developed, about 2ft (60cm) to train them up one regions with warm, frost-free and apart, from the rods. These are suitable or both sides toward fairly dry conditions in spring, late for a range of outdoor situations, such the ridge. Both summer, and fall. If you are doubtful as house walls, pergolas, and arches. methods require of providing the necessary conditions a system of stakes outside, it is best to grow vines under THE GUYOT SYSTEM and wires in order cover (see pp.228–230). Widely used in vineyards, this system to support the fruiting (see p.232) creates fruiting arms that are sideshoots (see Vines may easily be propagated replaced each year. A single guyot has pp.228–229). from hardwood cuttings and grown one arm, and a double guyot has two. on their own root systems; however, Single guyots should be spaced about STANDARD VINES in countries where the root pest 3ft (1m) apart and double guyots about Standard vines have a clear, tall main Daktulosphaira vitifolii is present, it is 5ft (1.5m) apart. They are trained on stem, which must be well staked, with necessary to grow them on resistant support systems of posts and wires. a group of spurs at the top (see p.230). rootstocks (see below). They are suitable for container-grown vines, and for those grown under cover GRAPE VINES IN THE GARDEN in areas that are too small for a cordon. The grape vine is a vigorous climbing plant that produces fruit on one-year- ROOTSTOCKS old shoots, and therefore needs careful In the world’s great wine regions, annual pruning. Because of its vigor it the European vine, Vitis vinifera, is will bleed sap profusely if pruned when grafted onto rootstocks of American in active growth, so it is essential to vines such as V. labrusca, which are complete all major pruning of vines resistant to the devastating insect pest, while they are dormant in late winter. Daktulosphaira vitifolii (see p.233). Only There are several good methods of in countries such as Chile, where it training vines for optimum cropping, is absent, or where there is no major of which the cordon, guyot, and wine industry, as in the UK, is V. standard forms are the most suitable vinifera grown on its own roots. If you for garden or greenhouse cultivation. want a vine grafted onto a rootstock, choose one for your soil type. On SINGLE AND MULTIPLE CORDONS deep, fertile, non-chalky soils, suitable The cordon, sometimes known as the rootstocks are 125AA, 5C, and S04; on rod-and-spur system, is one of the most deep, fertile, chalky soils, 5BB, 125AA, versatile forms of training grape vines, 5C, and S04; on shallow, poor, stony, and is widely used under cover; it is also dry soils, 5BB and 125AA; on heavy suitable for growing vines on walls, clays, 5BB, 125AA, and S04; on fences, and pergolas, or in rows on heavy, chalky clays or on chalk, S04. freestanding posts and wires. A single cordon (see p.228) consists of one permanent stem that produces a
228 GRAPE VINES GRAPE VINES UNDER COVER In cool climates, the large-berried table, grown in a greenhouse or conservatory however, have the advantage of starting or dessert, grapes must be grown under that is heated throughout winter, they earlier into growth, as the soil warms cover, in a greenhouse, conservatory, must be container-grown so that they up earlier, but need good preparation or even a porch. In particularly cool can be moved outside for a few weeks. of the border soil, with plenty of added areas, and for late-ripening cultivars, manure, and regular watering. Over some additional heat (see p.44) in spring PLANTING GRAPES UNDER COVER time, the roots will spread outside. and sometimes fall may be required. Vines to be grown in a greenhouse Vines under cover are usually grown as can be planted from early fall to early CREATING A SINGLE CORDON cordons, but they can also be grown spring. Planting them outside and Single cordons require a support system as standards in containers if space is training the rod inside the greenhouse of tautly stretched horizontal wires (see tight. To fruit successfully, grape vines makes watering and feeding easier. p.162, p.231) that are 9–12in (23–30cm) need a cool period in winter: if they are Those planted inside in a border, apart. Formative pruning (see below) will Formative pruning of a single cordon vine Cut back sideshoots to 1–2 strong buds Pinch back laterals between finger and thumb 1Year 1, early winter: after planting a 2 Year 1, summer: tie in the new 3Year 2, winter: after the leaves have strong, healthy vine, whether indoors leading shoot to a stake, and allow it fallen, cut back the new growth of the or outdoors, use a pair of sharp secateurs to grow unhindered. Pinch back the main leading shoot by a half to two-thirds of its to cut down the leading shoot to a strong sideshoots, or laterals, to 5–6 leaves. Pinch length, leaving only brown, ripened wood. bud on well-ripened wood, about 12in any sideshoots that the laterals themselves Prune back all the laterals and sideshoots (30cm) above the level of the soil. have produced back to 1 leaf. to 1 or 2 strong-looking buds. Tie in leading Reduce laterals shoot to 5–6 leaves Carefully prune back all laterals to 1–2 strong, healthy buds 4 Year 2, summer: tie in the leading 5Year 3, winter: as in the previous 6Year 3, spring: from each spur, shoot, and pinch back the laterals to winter, prune back the leading shoot the point where the laterals join the 5–6 leaves and any sublaterals to 1 leaf. to well-ripened wood, and the laterals to main stem, 3–4 shoots will have formed. Remove any flower trusses, unless the vine 1 or 2 strong-looking buds. On the leading Thin these out at the base to 1–2 strong is growing very well, in which case allow shoot, the bud should face in the opposite shoots. A second one may be useful as a just 1 to develop into a bunch of grapes. direction to the one chosen a year earlier. replacement if the first fails to develop.
GRAPE VINES UNDER COVER 229 take several years, but is well worth the a bud about 15–18in (38–45cm) above and train the adjacent shoot vertically. effort. After the third year, repeat the ground. In the following summer, Repeat this process until the required the pruning cycle for the established select one shoot on each side and tie it number of arms has been started. The cordon until the grape vine has reached to a stake angled at 45 degrees. In early arms themselves are extended in the the required length (see below). Then, winter, lower these to the horizontal and same way as described for a single cordon gradually increase the number of flower prune back to a bud at about 2ft (60cm) (see facing page). trusses allowed to develop into bunches from the central stem. If you want only of grapes on the established cordon until a double cordon, in the following CARE OF MATURE MULTIPLE CORDONS one bunch per spur is obtained. summer train the endmost shoots up to Prune established multiple cordons as a stake in the same way as for a single for a single cordon (see below), with the CREATING A MULTIPLE CORDON cordon. Prune back the laterals along the rods 3–4ft (1–1.2m) apart. Horizontal In the first summer, train a strong, horizontal stem to five leaves, in order arms to be developed from the rods healthy vine as a single stem, as for a to develop fruiting laterals. To obtain a should be spaced 20–24in (50–60cm) single cordon (see facing page). Early in larger multiple cordon, train the endmost apart. To encourage new shoots, bend the first winter, prune the stem back to shoot at a 45-degree angle to continue it, the stems over (see bottom). Pruning an established single cordon vine Established single cordon grape vines Tie in shoots require regular attention to pruning and after pruning training in order to keep them producing healthy new growth and cropping well. 1 Pinch back Pinch out flower trusses 2 sideshoots 1In summer, select 1 lateral from each to 1 leaf Use a pruning spur, and also a reserve shoot, and saw to thin out remove all the other shoots. Prune the Lower leading shoot congested spurs laterals at 5–6 leaves past a flower truss, allowing 1 bunch of grapes to develop Prune laterals per lateral, and cut sublaterals back to with sharp 1 leaf. Pinch out all other flower trusses. secateurs 2 In winter, shorten the laterals to 2 buds. If spurs are becoming over-long, shorten to the replacement lateral; the spurs should be 9–12in (23–30cm) apart. Thin out congested, over-large spurs, using a pruning saw for a clean cut. In early spring, cut back the leading shoot to a bud below the top wire, untie it, and bend it down to the horizontal carefully. Tie it into a wire. This encourages shoots to break along the lower part of the main stem. When the buds start to break, retie the leader in a vertical position. Training an established multiple cordon vine 1To encourage production of new shoots all along the multiple cordon 12 stems, untie them from their supports in early spring. Carefully bend the stems over to the horizontal so that the top is arched downward, and tie them into the wires. Buds will break at regular intervals along the stems (see inset). 2 Once the buds have opened all along the stems, and started to grow out strongly, untie the stems and gently ease them back into a vertical position.
230 GRAPE VINES Creating a standard vine Thin out old Thinning grapes spurs on mature Once bunches of Standard vines have a stem 3–4ft plants if they berries have formed, (1–1.2m) tall with spurs at the top. are congested thinning the grapes For the first 1–2 years, allow laterals will enable the others to develop on the stem. In the third to grow large and winter, remove these to leave just juicy. Prop the bunch the top spurs. Tie the stem to a with a forked twig, stake so that the laterals can be and use sharp, fine supported with string when carrying scissors to snip out grapes. Let 5–6 laterals develop at the about one-third of top; prune these to 5 leaves and sub- the berries evenly laterals to 1 leaf. In the first cropping throughout the year, allow 1 bunch only; thereafter bunch. Start at the allow 1 bunch per lateral. In early top sprig or shoulder, winter, prune the laterals to 2 buds. and work your way down the bunch. ROUTINE CARE OF INDOOR VINES TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS touching grapes with fingers damages Grape vines rooted under cover and in Most vines will grow well in unheated the bloom on the surface of the berries containers need additional nutrients and greenhouses or conservatories, but in and can lead to infection. First remove will benefit from liquid feeds of a high- areas with a short growing season, or any berries that are crowding the centre potash fertilizer (see pp.20–23) from where late-ripening vines are being of the bunch, and then thin those on about one month after growth starts grown, it may be necessary to provide the outside. Avoid over-thinning the until the fruits start to ripen. If they extra heat. A good time to start is in top sprigs, or shoulders, of the bunches; are making poor growth, use a more late winter, when a minimum night aim for a balanced shape. balanced or high-nitrogen liquid feed. temperature of 39–45°F (4–7°C) is beneficial. It is very important to HARVESTING DESSERT GRAPES Vines grown in the greenhouse ventilate the plants, however, if daytime Dessert grapes should be harvested border or in containers require regular temperatures reach about 66°F (19°C). when fully ripe (see below). To avoid watering during the growing season. touching them with your fingers, which Those that have their roots outside Container-grown grape vines in might cause damage, cut the bunch off the greenhouse, however, will need greenhouses or conservatories that are together with a piece of the lateral stem little or no additional water. constantly heated in winter should be above it, to use as a handle. It is best moved outside into temperatures below to harvest just one bunch at a time, as Apply a 2–3in (5–8cm) layer of 40°F (5°C) for 4–6 weeks in order they ripen, since the grapes will only mulch, such as well-rotted manure, for them to experience the period of keep for a few days once harvested. garden compost, or bark (see pp.41–42), chilling necessary to initiate flowering. to a radius of 18in (45cm) around each Harvesting dessert grapes vine each year in late winter. Do not POLLINATION OF GRAPE VINES The grapes are ripe when the skin of the fruits let the mulch touch the stem. Some vines will set fruit under cover becomes translucent. To avoid damaging the without any additional pollination. bloom of the grapes, hold the stem above In early to midwinter, carefully Most benefit, however, if you tap the the bunch, and cut it 11∕2–2in (4–5cm) either remove any loose bark (see below) rods around midday on warm days side of the bunch to form a handle (see inset). to expose any pests. If there are any during flowering. If they do not set well, then gently stroking the bunches present, such as mealybug with cupped hands will transfer pollen (see p.257) or brown scale (see from the stamens to the stigmas and so p.253), spray the vine with assist pollination. Keep the atmosphere a winter wash. fairly dry during flowering, and do not water from above. Scraping off old bark To reduce problems THINNING DESSERT GRAPES This is necessary in order to produce with pests such as berries of a good size and to allow air mealybugs, which movement between the berries and so shelter in crevices, after prevent the development of gray mold, winter pruning remove most or botrytis. Thin with scissors when of the outer layers of old, the berries are small (see above), using a loose bark from the vine small forked stick to support the bunch: stems. Use a sharp knife. This will expose any lurking pests, which can then be easily eradicated.
GRAPE VINES OUTDOORS 231 GRAPE VINES OUTDOORS A warm, sunny slope, wall, or fence, running them through cup-hooks on ROUTINE CARE OF OUTDOOR VINES preferably below an altitude of about the intermediate posts so that they can In late winter, feed with a general 400ft (120m), is best for growing grape be easily removed for winter pruning. compound fertilizer (see pp.20–23) at vines outdoors. Vines are tolerant of a The end posts require support struts, a rate of approximately 21⁄2oz/sq yd wide range of soils, provided that they as described for tree fruit supports (see (70g/sq m) and sulfate of potash at about are at least 12in (30cm) deep and well- pp.162–163). Guyot vines grown against 1⁄2oz/sq yd (15g/sq m). Mulch with a drained. They have deep and extensive walls or fences need only single rather 2–3in (5–8cm) layer of well-rotted root systems, and are therefore capable than double wires, since the shoots will manure, garden compost, or of bark of withstanding drought. The ideal be trained between the wires and wall. mulch, spread over a radius of 18in pH is 6.5–7 (see p.18). They may suffer (45cm) for the first 4–5 years, and lime-induced chlorosis on thin soils GUYOT TRAINING every year for wall-trained vines. The over chalk (see Iron deficiency, p.256); To create a double guyot vine, follow mulch should not touch the stem. a high-potash feed can remedy this. It is the formative pruning steps outlined on vital to choose cultivars that are suitable p.232. For a single guyot, the training Established vines require little or for cultivation in the open; these will is the same except that only two shoots no watering, but newly planted vines usually be white wine grapes (see p.233). are used, and then one arm only is need irrigation during dry periods in selected. In the first cropping year— spring and summer. Foliage should be Vines can be planted outdoors in the first year that the arms are tied in thinned out in late summer (see below). the dormant season between late fall place—retain only one or two bunches and early spring. However, container- on each arm to avoid overly stressing the HARVESTING VINE GRAPES grown vines, are best purchased and vine. In the second cropping year, retain For wine-making, grapes must contain planted in late spring when they have two or three bunches per arm. In the the maximum amount of sugar; the started to grow and all danger of air third cropping year, if the grape vine is sugar levels can be determined using frosts has passed. Vines outdoors may growing strongly, retain all the bunches. specialist instruments, but a good guide be grown as cordons (see pp.228–229) is to taste the grapes as they approach or on the guyot system. Established guyot vines should be ripeness and harvest when they are pruned every year (see p.232). As the very sweet. Green grapes usually turn THE GUYOT SYSTEM use of a three-bud “stub” leads to more translucent and slightly yellow This is the most widely used vineyard the framework gradually getting higher, when ripe. Cut them off where the form of training vines, and it is also an occasionally select a lower-placed shoot stalk joins the cropping lateral. Grapes excellent form for garden cultivation, as a stub, so that the vine can be cut are best eaten fresh, but should keep particularly for wine grapes. The vines back to this in the following year. for a little while if stored in a cool place. are pruned on a replacement system (see p.232) as either single or double guyots (with one or two fruiting arms). This usually results in good-quality fruit buds each year, and a fine crop of grapes. Vines should be planted 3ft (1m) apart for a single guyot and, for a double guyot, 4ft (1.5m) apart. If you intend to grow more than one row of vines, orient the rows north–south and space them 5–6ft (1.5–2m) apart. CREATING A SUPPORT SYSTEM Thinning the foliage of outdoor grape vines sharp secateurs, cut out at the base any leaves In late summer, as the fruits (here of the black that are shading the fruits. Try to keep from Guyot vines require a support system wine grape ‘Rondo’) are ripening, thin out the touching the grapes while you are working. of posts and wires, using 1⁄16in-gauge foliage to allow the sun to reach the fruits. Using (2mm) galvanized wire. This should consist of treated posts spaced 12–15ft (4–5m) apart, depending on the spacing of the plants, with two single lower wires at 16in (40cm) and 22in (55cm) from the ground. There should also be three sets of double wires at 3ft (90cm), 4ft (1.2m), and 5ft (1.5m). Use straining bolts to attach the wires to the end posts,
232 GRAPE VINES Formative pruning of a double guyot vine 1On planting in winter, insert a stake 1 23 and tie it into the horizontal wires. 4 5 Prune the vine back to 6in (15cm) above 7 the soil, with at least 2 strong buds. 6 2 Year 1, summer: tie the leading shoot to the stake with soft twine. Cut sideshoots back to 5 leaves, and remove strong, upright shoots and low shoots. 3Year 2, winter: cut the leading shoot back to just above 3 strong buds that are below the lowest set of wires. 4 Year 2, spring and summer: as the vine grows, choose 3 strong shoots, pruning back any others, and train them upward, tying them into the central support (see right). Tuck the sideshoots from the 3 main shoots into the parallel wires to grow horizontally; their leaves will feed and strengthen the vine. Throughout the summer, rub or pull off any other shoots at the base of the vine (see inset). 5Year 3, winter: tie 2 of the 3 side- shoots to the bottom wires on each side in a shallow arc to form the guyot’s arms. If either breaks off, use the third unpruned shoot to replace it. If not, prune this shoot to 3–4 good buds (see far right). 6Year 3, summer: guide shoots from each arm vertically through the pairs of wires. Pinch out their tips when they reach the top; pinch any sideshoots they produce back to 1 leaf. Let 3 shoots grow from the central stub, also pinching back their sideshoots. These 3 shoots are reserved to form next year’s fruiting arms. 7 Year 4, winter: untie and cut off the guyot’s arms completely. As in step 5, bend 2 of the central, reserved shoots to the horizontal and tie them into the 2 bottom wires. If the third is not needed as a reserve, prune it back to 3–4 buds. Pruning an established guyot vine In summer, as in step 6 above, train evenly Pinching sublaterals on the three reserved shoots Summer pruning of shoot tips and sideshoots spaced sideshoots upward from the guyot’s arms, tucking them between the double wires. These shoots will flower and fruit. Tie in and reserve three strong shoots from the central “stubs” as before. Remove any flowers produced by these shoots. Prune all vertically trained shoots back to 4–6in (10–15cm) above the top wire when necessary, and pinch or cut back any sideshoots they produce to one leaf. Remove any shoots on the clear trunk. In early winter, as in step 7 above, cut back the fruited arms and tie in the replacement shoots.
RECOMMENDED GRAPE VINE CULTIVARS 233 RECOMMENDED GRAPE VINE CULTIVARS Dessert grapes for under cover Outdoor cultivars Outdoor dessert grapes Dessert grapes are the only ones suitable for Generally, white wine grapes are the most ‘Bluebell’ Mid to late fall. Berries are growing under cover, and they are classified in successful for growing outside, but there are three groups: sweetwater, muscat, and vinous. also suitable black wine grapes and some medium to large and blue-black in color Sweetwater are the earliest to mature and are dessert grapes, although berries will be small. with tender skin. easiest to grow in an unheated greenhouse. ‘Canadice’ Late fall, seedless red grape with Muscat grapes have the finest flavor and Wine grapes a bit of a spicy flavor. ripen later. They can be grown in an unheated ‘Catawba’ Mid to late fall. The red grapes have ‘Himrod’ Mid-fall, seedless, white grape, greenhouse in milder areas, but usually benefit grows best against a warm, sunny wall from some additional heat. Vinous grapes are a crisp flesh that is very sweet and juicy. or a fence. difficult to grow, so are not recommended. ‘Concord’ Late fall. The old favorite blue- ‘New York Muscat’ Mid-fall, excellent outdoor white grape, needing a warm, ‘Buckland Sweetwater’ Early-cropping, black grape that has been around for sunny wall or fence in order to crop well. white, sweetwater grape. generations. ‘Tereshkova’ Early fall ‘Madeleine Angevine’ Early to mid-fall, very black grape, with good ‘Chasselas’ Early, small, white, sweetwater vigorous, heavy-cropping, white grape. fall foliage color. grape; it can also be grown outside in ‘Niagra’ Early fall, amber-colored grape that warmer areas. is very vigorous and productive. ‘Muscat of ‘Orion’ Promising new white grape with Alexandria’, ‘Foster’s Seedling’ Early-cropping, white good disease resistance. white muscat sweetwater grape. ‘Rondo’ Promising new black grape. grapes ‘Seibel 13.153’ (syn. ‘Cascade’) Mid-fall, ‘Muscat Hamburg’ Earliest to crop of the black grape, with some mildew resistance. muscats, a good-flavored, black grape. ‘Seyval Blanc’ Mid-fall, white grape, not the highest-quality flavor but can be relied ‘Muscat of Alexandria’ Late-ripening, white, on to crop well, good mildew resistance. muscat grape, one of the best-flavored, ‘Siegerrebe’ Early fall, white grape, but often needs additional heat in spring good flavor for both dessert use and wine. and fall to ripen well. ‘Triomphe d’Alsace’ Early fall, heavy-cropping black grape, with good mildew resistance. ‘Schiava Grossa’ (syn. ‘Black Hamburgh’) Well-known, midseason, black sweetwater grape. COMMON PROBLEMS OF GRAPE VINES In warm climates, where vines are widely rootstocks (see p.227). Cultural disorders grown outdoors, they may succumb to a Mealybug Only a serious problem for vines number of common problems. In cooler areas, Magnesium deficiency May occur both vines grown outside suffer from few pests under cover (see p.257). outside and under cover, but is easily other than birds taking the fruits, but they can Red spider mite Often a problem under controlled (see p.257). be affected by certain diseases and disorders. Vines grown under cover are more susceptible cover, but rarely outside (see p.261). Oedema May occur on vines under cover to all types of problem. For more details, see Vine weevil Adults attack the foliage, but when conditions are too moist, usually Plant Problems, pp.246–262. through lack of ventilation. Do not remove it is the grubs in the soil that can seriously the affected parts as this will exacerbate the Pests harm a vine (see p.264). problem (see p.258). Birds As fruits ripen, net vines both outside Wasps May affect early-ripening cultivars. Use traps, or protect fruits with muslin bags Scald and scorch Can be a problem with and across the doors and ventilators of or sections of nylon tights (see p.264). vines under cover, when grapes and leaves greenhouses, to protect them from birds. near glass suffer as a result of lack of Brown scale Usually only a problem under Diseases ventilation. Remove affected parts and cover, but sometimes also for wall-trained Downy mildew Seldom affects vines in cooler improve air circulation (see p.262). vines (see p.262). Daktulosphaira vitifolii (syn. Phylloxera areas (see p.255). Shanking Can affect vines under cover. The vastatrix) This pest can cause serious Botrytis Also known as grey mould, this is a cause is damage to the root system due to problems in certain countries. A voracious waterlogging, drought, reduction of the rooting root feeder, it causes severe stunting; leaf common problem both outside and under area, or overcropping. If spotted early, reduce galls may form and the vine may die. This cover, but regular pruning and fruit thinning the number of bunches and correct any root pest multiplies rapidly and is impossible reduces the risk (see p.252). problem (see p.262). to eradicate using conventional pesticides. Powdery mildew Affects leaves and fruits, The solution in is grafting onto resistant and can be a problem both outside and Spray damage Vines are very susceptible under cover (see p.260). Resistant cultivars to damage from hormonal weedkillers, are available (see above). causing twisted and distorted growth. Do Root rots Caused by honey fungus (see not spray near vines or store chemicals p.256) and Phytophthora (see p.259). near them.
234 GROWING TENDER FRUITS GROWING TENDER FRUITS This section includes a selection of tender fruits that make in a greenhouse in cooler climates. Although not fascinating specimens to grow under glass in cool temperate economical crops in these conditions, they are nevertheless zones. Since most need warmth and many hours of summer very satisfying to grow, and several, especially citrus and sunshine to crop heavily and ripen well, they are highly passion fruits, make splendid and productive ornamentals. productive as crop plants only in warmer parts of the world. Following the advice in this section will produce the best But with careful cultivation, most will bear and ripen fruit possible harvests of tender fruits in cool temperate regions. Citrus after flowering. Fruit ripens 9–11 months after shape. Thin the fruits during training and, pollination. Most are self-fertile, so no once the tree is established, keep pruning to a Citrus species pollinator is required. minimum; shorten overlong or cold-damaged ■ Site and planting Citrus tolerate a range shoots and remove dead, diseased, and crossing Many citrus species are grown for their fruits, of soils, but prefer fertile, well-drained, slightly branches to maintain productive growth and including oranges, grapefruits, lemons, and acid conditions (pH 6–6.5). Plant in spring a compact, open habit. limes. Calamondins (x Citrofortunella microcarpa), into prepared beds, or containers at least 2ft ■ Routine care Water well and give a high- and kumquats (Fortunella japonica and (60cm) in diameter, filled with a fertile, loam- nitrogen, medium-potassium liquid feed F. margarita), are also classified as citrus fruits. based compost. Keep almost dry during winter monthly during the growing season; use a dormancy and, as temperatures rise in spring, fertilizer that includes trace elements (see p.20). Citrus trees are evergreen and can reach resume watering to initiate f lowering. Provide Do not allow citrus to dry out, since drought 10–30ft (3–10m) tall, with a spread of 15–25ft full light and excellent ventilation and causes fruit drop. (5–8m); they require restrictive pruning under maintain a temperature of at least 55°F (14°C) glass. In warm climates, flowers and fruits are after f lowering; allow it to rise to 68–75˚F Remove any suckers from the rootstock, borne year-round, often appearing on the tree (20–25˚C) with a humidity of 75 percent or cutting them back to their points of origin. at the same time. more in summer. The higher the temperature, Repot citrus in containers every third or the better is the f lavor of the fruit. Cold and fourth year in early spring. It is usual to grow grafted citrus trees, and draughts will cause fruit drop. ■ Harvesting and storage Expect perhaps the chosen rootstock will affect the degree of ■ Pruning and training Citrus may be a dozen fruits per year on each tree. Harvest pruning needed. As a general rule, choose a trained as a standard (see below), which is the fruits when ripe, using pruners to cut plant grown on a dwarfing rootstock if it is to an ideal form when grown in a container. them with a short stem. Undamaged fruits be grown under glass; get specialized advice can be stored for several weeks at 38–42˚F from the supplier. Prune between late winter and early spring. (4–6˚C) in well-ventilated conditions. To train citrus as a bush, once the trunk has ■ Propagation For named cultivars, Most citrus will survive brief spells at 32°F reached about 20in (50cm), select three or T-budding is the usual propagation method. (0°C), but will fruit freely only in frost-free four shoots above the clear stem to form the This is similar to chip-budding (see p.154), but climates that have hot summers and an average permanent framework. Prune these by one- instead of grafting a “chip” onto the rootstock, winter minimum of 59°F (15°C). In cool third to encourage branching. Continue over a bud is grafted. Make a T-shaped cut through temperate climates, grow them in a frost-free the next 3–4 years to shorten these shoots and the bark of the rootstock about 9in (23cm) greenhouse or conservatory. Citrus become any strong sideshoots to achieve an even, bushy above ground level. Prepare a bud of the dormant at 55°F (13°C) and to bear ripe fruit, need a minimum of 55°F (14°C) for six months Training a citrus standard Use figure- Allow leaves Remove any 1When planting, tie in the main vertical eight knot to to remain on sideshoots stem, or leader, to a stake, and shorten tie vertical stem—these from main any sideshoots by one-third. stem to stake will fall naturally stem that are below desired 2Once the main stem has grown to Remove one- Cut out stem height more than the final required height third of length of sideshoots that of the trunk, prune it back to a healthy each sideshoot were pruned bud. Do not prune any new sideshoots, previously since these will help to thicken the trunk, 12 but remove any sideshoots that were 3 shortened in the previous year. 3When 3 or 4 well-spaced sideshoots have developed above the desired trunk height, remove all shoots below these to leave a clear trunk and the beginnings of the permanent head of the standard. Prune the 3 or 4 remaining shoots by 3–5 leaves. In subsequent seasons, prune as for a bush tree (see above) to gain a rounded, balanced shape.
GROWING TENDER FRUITS 235 cultivar to be grafted by choosing a section Summer pruning kiwi fruit of ripe, new growth and slicing out a bud with a gentle scooping cut. Insert the bud into the In early to midsummer, T-shaped cut, and bind the area with plastic look for sideshoots that have tape so the graft cannot dry out. Remove the developed fruitlets at the tape after 4–6 weeks. When the budded shoot base. Use pruners to cut is 1in (2.5cm) long, cut off the rootstock top- back each shoot to 5 leaves growth just above it. above the fruitlets, making the cut just above a leaf. Citrus can also be raised from seed. This will divert energy from Although many citrus do produce offspring producing foliage to the that are similar to the parent, seed-raised swelling fruits. After fruiting, plants can take six years or more to begin cut the sideshoots back to fruiting, and there is always a risk of inferior 2 buds beyond the last fruit. quality fruit. It is better to buy in named This method of pruning will cultivars from a reputable supplier. build up a productive system ■ Common problems Citrus may be affected of fruiting spurs. by mealybugs (p.257), red spider mite (p.261), scale insect (p.262), and whitefly (p.264). at 12in (30cm) intervals. Plant in winter, ■ Common problems Kiwi fruit are seldom Crown rot (p.254), root-knot nematode (p.261), allowing 12–15ft (4–5m) between plants. prone to significant pest or disease attack. fruit fly (p.256), and thrips (p.263) are ■ Recommended cultivars sometimes troublesome. Viruses (p.263), spread For successful pollination, plant both male ‘Bruno’—female; large, elongated, dark brown by aphids, cause loss of vigor, smaller fruits, and (nonfruiting) and female plants; one male will fruits, with bristly hairs and sweet flavor. pitting on fruits. Spray against aphids when seen. pollinate up to eight or nine females. ‘Hayward’—female; large, oval, pale brown ■ Recommended citrus cultivars ■ Pruning and training The most practical fruits, softly hairy with good, sweet f lavor. x Citrofortunella microcarpa—calamondin; way to grow a kiwi fruit in domestic gardens ‘Tomuri’—male; good pollinator. small, ornamental fruit, good for preserves. is as an espalier (see p.152). C. aurantiifolia ‘Tahiti’, syn. ‘Persian’—lime; Passion fruit the most cold-tolerant, with fairly sweet fruit. After planting, tie in the leading shoot as C. aurantium ‘Chinotto’—sour orange; it grows to a stake attached vertically to the Passiflora species compact, free-f lowering, bitter f lavor. wires. Train in a pair of shoots along each C. limon ‘Garey’s Eureka’—lemon; few- horizontal wire, pinching out the tips when Vigorous climbers, passion fruit bear yellow seeded, very acid, medium-sized fruit. they fill the allotted space; these will form or purple fruits on the current year’s growth. C. x meyeri ‘Meyer’—the hardiest and most the permanent fruiting framework. The fruits The species usually grown for their fruit compact lemon; small, rounded, acid fruit. are borne on one-year-old wood. are the yellow-fruited P. edulis f. flavicarpa and C. x paradisi ‘Marsh’—grapefruit; free- the purple-fruited P. edulis. Both require a f lowering with seedless, white-f leshed fruit. Allow sideshoots to develop at 20in (50cm) winter minimum temperature of 50°F (10°C). C. reticulata ‘Dancy’—mandarin orange; intervals, pinching them out to leave five When in growth, purple-fruited variants do best compact with small, sweet, juicy fruit. leaves. These should bear fruit the following above 68°F (20°C), while those with yellow C. sinensis ‘Washington’—sweet orange; year; for summer pruning, see above. Every fruits need temperatures above 75°F (24°C). sweet, juicy, seedless navel orange. three years or so, cut the sideshoots back to Both need moderate humidity to fruit well. C. x tangelo ‘Minneola’—tangelo; aromatic, dormant buds near the main horizontal shoot with sweet, tangy f lesh. to encourage new sideshoots. Purple passion fruit ■ Routine care Apply a thick mulch in spring Once a shoot has produced fruit, like this Kiwi fruit (see pp.41–42) and a general-purpose fertilizer purple-fruiting Passiflora edulis, it will not rich in phosphate and potassium. Water well fruit again, so it should be pruned back after Actinidia deliciosa to keep moist throughout the growing season. fruiting to 2 healthy buds. ■ Harvesting and storage About three or Kiwi fruits, or Chinese gooseberries, are four years after planting, the vines should start rampant, twining, deciduous plants that grow to bear fruit. Harvest the fruits as they start to up to 28ft (9m) in length; they require sturdy, soften. Store laid out in trays in single layers. permanent supports and a great deal of space. Wrapped in plastic wrap at near-freezing temperatures, they keep for four to six weeks. Kiwi fruits need temperatures of 40–77°F ■ Propagation Take softwood cuttings, about (5–25°C) to fruit well, although they will 4–6in (10–15cm) long, in spring, selecting survive temperatures down to 18°F (–8°C) healthy, unripened wood. Trim the leaves when dormant. Protection from wind is vital off the lower third of each cutting and insert (see pp.12–13). They should be grown against in a pot of cuttings compost with bottom a south- or west-facing wall in cool temperate heat (see p.62). Once rooted, pot up into larger areas. It is rarely practicable to grow them in pots before hardening off and planting out. a conservatory, but a dedicated polytunnel or Alternatively, take some hardwood cuttings plastic screening may be used for extra in winter. Trim to 8–12in (20–30cm) long, protection in cold areas. and insert them in sandy compost. Once ■ Site and planting Choose deep, well- rooted, transplant to their final positions. aerated soil rich in organic matter and with a pH of 6–7. Add a general purpose fertilizer Selected cultivars may be grafted by means at a rate of 2–4oz (50–110g) per plant. Erect of T-budding (see Citrus, left) or whip-and- post-and-wire support with horizontal wires tongue grafting (see p.155).
236 GROWING TENDER FRUITS ■ Site and planting Passion fruits thrive in ■ Recommended cultivars sensitive to drafts, so avoid exposure to them full sun, and grow well in beds against the ‘Crackerjack’—free-f lowering, with large, at all times. You could create a microclimate back wall of a greenhouse or conservatory. aromatic, deep purple to black fruits. around the plants in the greenhouse using a They tolerate a range of soil types as long ‘Golden Nuggett’—free-f lowering, with film plastic “tent.” as there is good drainage—add well-rotted sweet, golden yellow fruit. ■ Routine care Water regularly, particularly organic matter and sharp sand to the planting when young, and provide a thick organic hole, along with a general-purpose fertilizer. Pineapple mulch (see pp.41–42) on beds to help retain For containers (see pp.35–36), use a fertile moisture. Apply a high-nitrogen, medium- compost with a high organic content and Ananas comosus potassium liquid feed every three or four add a general purpose fertilizer; choose a weeks during the growing season. container over 14in (35cm) in diameter. Pineapples are succulent perennials, of the ■ Harvesting and storage Each plant will bromeliad family, that originate in tropical produce a single fruit. When fruits begin to Prepare a support in the form of a trellis climates. To produce fruit, pineapples need turn yellow, cut through the stem below or wires on a wall (see p.162). Plant in spring, high levels of light, moderately high humidity, each fruit, leaving a small stalk attached. The and space the plants about 10ft (3m) apart. and temperatures of 64–86°F (18–30°C). fruits can be stored at 46°F (8°C) with 90 Plants usually fruit at about three years of percent humidity for about three weeks. You may need to pollinate by hand (see age. Pineapples grown in containers are more ■ Propagation Suckers grow from the leaf p.157) and fruit set will be poor where easily managed, but will produce smaller axils, stem bases, or below the fruit. Cut off temperatures fall below 61°F (16°C). For fruits than those grown in beds. the sucker with a sharp knife, dip the cut good health and productivity, replace the ■ Site and planting Pineapples prefer a sandy surfaces in fungicide, and leave to dry for plants every five or six years. medium loam with a pH of 5–6.5 (see p.18), several days. Trim off the lower leaves and ■ Pruning and training Select and train although they will tolerate a range of soil insert into sandy compost to root. two main stems up and then along the top conditions. In spring, plant suckers or “slips” of the support. These stems will produce in prepared beds, about 12in (30cm) apart, Take crown shoots as cuttings (see below), sideshoots every year that hang down and with 24in (60cm) between rows, or at 20in keeping them at a temperature of 64–70°F bear fruit. Tip prune these to keep them (50cm) apart each way. Alternatively, use 12in (18–21°C). Once the suckers or crown roots clear of the ground. If the main stems are (30cm) diameter pots filled with compost with have rooted, pot them into 6in (15cm) pots. reluctant to f lower, pinch out the tips. a high organic content. Provide maximum ■ Common problems Mealybugs (see p.257), light, a temperature of at least 68°F (20°C) root-knot nematode (p.261), scale insect Every year after fruiting, prune back the and humidity of about 70 percent. Bottom (p.262), red spider mite (p.254), and thrips hanging sideshoots to about 8in (20cm) or heat improves growth. Pineapples are very (p.254) may affect pineapples. In overly wet two buds; fruited shoots will not fruit again. conditions, Phytophthora heart-rot (see p.259) ■ Routine care For plants grown in beds, may become a problem. apply a general-purpose fertilizer with a ■ Recommended cultivars medium- to high-nitrogen content every Cultivars are seldom offered in the US, but if three or four months, from spring onwards. propagating from the crowns of store-bought Keep plants mulched (see pp.41–42) and pineapples, ‘Queen’, imported from Kenya or well-watered. In pots, use a liquid feed or Malaysia, is sweet, well-flavored and ripens general-purpose fertilizer (see pp.20–23) quickly. ‘Smooth Cayenne’, grown in Hawaii every four weeks during the growing season. and the Azores, has smooth, spineless leaves and ■ Harvesting and storage The best quality very juicy, highly flavored fruit. fruits are obtained when left on the plant until fully colored and slightly shriveled. Olive They can, however, be ripened off the plant if picked as they begin to change color. Propagating from a crown shoot Olea europea Increase your stock by removing the crown Fruits may be stored for up to 21 days shoot of a ripe pineapple with 1∕2in (1cm) of the Olives are slow-growing, evergreen trees, at a temperature of 43–45°F (6–7°C) and fruit attached; do not cut through the base of reaching a height of 28–40ft (9–12m) and 85–90 percent humidity. the shoot. Insert into a pot of cuttings compost. a spread of 22–28ft (7–9m) in optimum ■ Propagation To grow passion fruit from conditions. They thrive in Mediterranean seed, extract the seeds from ripe fruits and regions with an ideal temperature range of allow them to ferment in their own pulp 41–77°F (5–25°C). Trees remain productive for a few days, then wash and dry them. for decades, developing gnarled bark and a Sow into a proprietary seed compost and twisted habit. To set and ripen fruits, trees cover lightly. Germinate at a temperature need long, hot summers followed by cool of 68–77°F (20–25°C). When the seedlings winters. Although moderately cold-hardy, are 8–14in (20–35cm) tall, transplant to their even mature trees will sustain damage if final position. temperatures fall below 14°F (–10°C). To propagate by cuttings, take 6–8in In cool climates, olives can be grown (15–20cm) lengths of softwood or semiripe in pots (see pp.35–36) and brought under stems between spring and late summer and cover during the winter months. They may insert in cuttings compost. Root with bottom be grown outdoors in very sheltered town heat (see p.62) on a mist bench, or mist them gardens and here, and in exceptionally regularly until the cuttings have rooted. warm years, they may produce some fruit. ■ Site and planting Select a well-drained Chip-budding (see p.154) can also be site with soil of medium to low fertility. used to propagate passion fruit. Alkaline soils (see p.18), up to pH 8.5, are ■ Common problems Passion fruit may be affected by aphids (see p.251), fruit f ly (p.256), red spider mite (p.261), and scale insect (p.262). Cucumber mosaic virus (see p.254), transmitted by aphids, can cause woodiness.
GROWING TENDER FRUITS 237 suitable. Provide shelter (see pp.12–13) from Propagating prickly pears from stem sections wind. A warm site against or near a sunny wall is essential in cool temperate climates. 1Cut a stem segment away from the 2 Leave the segments in a warm, dry parent plant with pruners or a sharp place for several days to allow calluses Choose either rooted cuttings or budded knife, dividing it into 2 or 3 if it is very to form. Insert each piece into a pot of plants, and stake firmly on planting. Space large. Wear thick gloves and use paper or sandy compost topped with grit. Transfer them 22–40ft (7–12m) apart. Under glass, use cardboard “sleeves” when handling the the rooted cuttings into 6–8in (15–20cm) pots at least 12–14in (30–35cm) in diameter; segment to protect you from the spines. pots, or into position in a border. fill with a fertile, loam-based compost and incorporate a slow-release fertilizer. processed to remove their bitterness. Those of 64–77°F (18–25°C) to fruit well, although that are used as table olives are picked when they tolerate temperatures as low as 50°F Olives are wind-pollinated and most they are black and firm, then packed in salt (10°C). Ripe fruits are purple or red and are cultivars are self-fertile, but you may need to until dehydrated, and subsequently stored in borne on the tops of stem sections, or “pads.” plant two or more plants in cooler climates olive oil or brine. Wear gloves or use paper sleeves for handling to improve pollination and fruiting. ■ Propagation Olives are usually propagated the plants, since the tiny, barbed spines cause ■ Pruning and training Prune olives in by stem cuttings. Take hardwood cuttings severe skin irritation. Commercially cultivated early spring. Take out the main vertical shoot in winter, removing sections of one- or two- variants are often almost spineless. when it is about 5ft (1.5m) tall, selecting three year-old wood about 12in (30cm) long. Treat ■ Site and planting Prickly pears prefer or four strong branches below the shoot to the base with a hormone rooting product, sandy, well-aerated soil with a pH of 5.5–7 form a permanent framework. Keep the stem then insert the cutting to half its depth in a (see p.18). Plant rooted pads in beds or pots clear of shoots below the framework shoots. pot of cutting compost. Rooting should take of sandy compost in a greenhouse or in a Routine pruning consists of removing older about 30 days at a temperature between conservatory. Add a little slow-release fertilizer branches to promote new growth (fruits are 55–70°F (13–21°C). (see p.20) and, if necessary, add grit or sharp borne on one-year-old wood) and to maintain sand to ensure good drainage (see p.16). Keep an open center to the tree. Transplant into larger pots to grow on. temperatures at 64–77°F (18–25°C) with a Semiripe cuttings, 4–6in (10–15cm) long, humidity of no more than 60 percent to To restrict the size of a pot-grown olive, can be taken in summer. discourage diseases. tip prune the main branches, cutting back ■ Routine care Prickly pears thrive in dry to a good replacement shoot each year. T-budding (see Citrus, p.235) can be used conditions and require little watering once ■ Routine care Apply a general-purpose to graft cultivars onto vigorous olive seedling they are established. They rarely require fertilizer with medium to high nitrogen levels rootstocks or, for a dwarfing inf luence, onto applications of additional fertilizer unless the two or three times a year. Water regularly Osmanthus stock. soil is exceptionally poor. while the tree establishes and mulch with ■ Common problems Fruit f ly (see p.256), ■ Harvesting and storage The first fruits organic material. Keep plants in containers olive scab (see p.251), root-knot nematode (see should appear three or four years after moist during the growing season and apply p.261), scale insect (p.262), and verticillium planting. Cut the fruits away from the stem a liquid feed every three or four weeks. wilt (p.263) may all affect olives grown in segments with a sharp knife. They are best the open. Under cover, common problems eaten within a few days of harvesting, although Do not move pot-grown plants outside may include red spider mite (p.261), thrips storage is possible for short periods of time in for the summer until all danger of frost has (p.263), and whitef ly (p.264). cool conditions. passed. Aim to maintain a temperature above ■ Recommended cultivars ■ Propagation Prickly pears are usually 70°F (21°C) in summer. Keep dry in a cold ‘El Greco’—large fruit with small pit. propagated from stem sections (see above); they greenhouse during winter, but protect the ‘Mission’—free-fruiting and cold-resistant. should take two or three months to root. roots from frost. Olives need a period of ■ Common problems Prickly pears may be winter chilling to initiate f lowers. Prickly pear affected by mealybugs (see p.257). Damping ■ Harvesting and storage An olive in the off (see p.254) may also be a problem in open may start to fruit three or four years Opuntia ficus-indica humid conditions. after planting. Timing of harvesting depends ■ Recommended cultivars on what the olives are to be used for. Occurring largely in the dry and arid Cultivars are seldom available to the amateur subtropics, the prickly pear belongs to the gardener in cool temperate climates. Olives to be used for fermenting are picked cactus family. They need a temperature range when they are ripe but green; these fruits are Mature olive tree Olive trees are very long-lived; the pretty creamy white flowers appear in midsummer, followed by fruits in fall.
238 CROP PLANNER Crop planner in conjunction with the crop rotation using more than one method. Where diagram (see p.31). Decide on your relevant, two outdoor management Good planning is the key to running priorities: to grow as much produce lines are used to show the effects of a productive kitchen garden. This as possible, you will need to plant a planting at different times of the year quick reference chart draws together variety of crops to ensure a year-round for long-term crops, and for perennial all the information given throughout supply. Alternatively, you may be vegetables, such as asparagus. the text on sowing, planting, and interested in growing only vegetables harvesting vegetables, strawberries that are not readily available. The chart also indicates how long and annual herbs, so that you can plan approximately each crop will occupy how to use your plot most effectively For each crop, the chart indicates up space in the ground, so that you can throughout the year. Perennial herbs to three ways of managing sowing and calculate how many plants you can fit and fruit are not included here because planting: starting indoors, under cover, into your plot at any one time. Allocate they will occupy a permanent and or outdoors. Sometimes this decision space first for the crops that you most specific place in the garden. will be dictated by the particular want to grow and then you can work climatic conditions in your area and out how to fill the remaining space, and Time spent on planning what crop the hardiness of each crop. You may time, with more crops for an efficient to grow, and where to do so, will pay wish to extend the season of a crop by and bountiful garden. dividends in the following year. You may find it helpful to use this chart How to use crop planner This chart will help you establish whether the four seasons, with a subdivision for early For instance, carrots sown in early spring any crop listed will need protection in the (E), mid- (M), and late (L) part of the season. will be out of the ground by early summer, greenhouse or under cover, or if it is hardy The shaded part-seasons will help you to allowing you to replant the row for an fall crop enough to flourish in the open ground in cool, identify the crops that hog the ground, and of peas, as well as refreshing the soil by temperate climates. The chart is divided into those that can be grown as short-term crops. rotating the crops. Location of sowing Page reference Time to maturity Planting symbols Time in ground Shows up to three ways in Refers to Approximate time crop Position of symbol Shaded areas indicate which crops may be managed takes from sowing or indicates when to: when each crop is in and the implications of each individual crop planting to harvest S Sow ground so that you can entry, with P Plant see at a glance when Sow or plant indoors T Transplant ground is free comprehensive H Harvest Sow or plant under cover information on ASow or plant outdoors that crop Carrot p.85 10–15 weeks Name of crop S T H/T H Crops listed HH S SS alphabetically by common name A S S S S/H S/H H H H H H Crop Season Crop Season Amaranth SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER American EML EML EML cress EML EML EML EML EML Artichoke HHH H P Arugula p.125 10–12 weeks HH Asparagus (cont.) A S/P H H T Asparagus SS SS S T/H H H H H S Asparagus pea p.98 9–14 weeks SS SS A S HHHH HH S THHH HH S HH HHH p.105 4–12 weeks A S HH HH S S T TH Basil p.142 6–8 weeks A S S SHHHHH S S THHH p.134 60–64 weeks Bean, fava p.98 14–32 weeks H H/T T THH AP P H H HHH p.107 4–12 weeks AS S HHH H HS H S Bean, French p.99 9–14 weeks A H/S S H/S H/S H H H or kidney S S T/H H H p.133 2–3 years S HH SHH T A S S/H H
CROP PLANNER 239 Crop Season Crop Season SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER EML EML EML EML EML EML EML EML S Bean, lima, p.99 14–23 weeks HHH Ceylon or p.125 10–12 weeks and yardlong SST HH S Malabar spinach S S/T/H T/H H H H SS HH H Chicory, red p.103 9–14 weeks HHH Bean, runner p.100 14 weeks HHH S S THHH T S S THHH A S H/S H H SS S S SHH H H Chicory, p.103 9–14 weeks H Beets p.85 8–12 weeks H S sugarloaf S S THHH H S S SHHH H HHH Chicory, A S S S/H H H H Witloof A SS H HHH Chile pepper p.103 23–27 weeks T HHH Bok choy p.127 10 weeks T H A SS HHH S S T T/H T/H H p.111 18–23 weeks H A S SH H S S T THHHH S H Brussels sprouts p.78 20–40 weeks H H Chinese, p.134 40–50 weeks H H artichoke TT HH S H Chinese AP HHH H A SSTT S H p.126 10 weeks H Cabbage, p.126 9–10 weeks H H broccoli S S THHH H Chinese S S T T/H T/H H H A S SHHHH Cabbage, red H H A S S S/H H H H Corn p.112 18 weeks H p.78 12–16 weeks H ST HHH HHH S S T THH H AS H AS S T T H H H Corn salad or p.103 4–12 weeks H Cabbage, spring p.78 31–33 weeks lamb’s lettuce H H/S H/S H H H S HH HH ST A S S SHHHHH ST A HH Cucumber p.117 14–18 weeks Cabbage, p.78 12–14 weeks S S T THH early summer S T THH S HHH S HHH AS T T H H A Cabbage, p.78 10–14 weeks Eggplant p.111 16–24 weeks summer, fall S T/S T/S T/S H/T H S S T THHHH A S T/S T/S T/S H/T H Endive p.104 12–14 weeks Cabbage, winter p.78 22–36 weeks S S T H/T H H S T/S T SS HHHH AH S T/S T Florence fennel p.122 15–18 weeks Calabrese p.79 10–14 weeks S ST T H H broccoli HH A S S SHHH A S S S H/S H/S H H Flowering greens p.126 10 weeks Cardoon p.133 36–38 weeks or choy sum S S T/S T/H T/H H SSTT H A S HH Carrot p.85 10–15 weeks Garlic p.92 22–32 weeks S T H/T H AP HHHHHP P P P P S HH Gherkin p.117 14–18 weeks A S S S/H S/H H H S S T THH Cauliflower, p.79 16–30 weeks AS HH early summer TH Ice plant p.104 4–12 weeks TH S T/H H H H H Cauliflower, p.79 16 weeks Japanese p.104 4–12 weeks summer ST HH mustard spinach ST HHH Cauliflower, HH AS S T A S SHHH p.79 16–18 weeks Jerusalem p.135 40–45 weeks artichoke fall SSTT H AP P P H H H/P Cauliflower, p.79 32–44 weeks Kale or p.80 28–42 weeks winter heading Cauliflower, AH S T curly kale H H S S T/S T/S T HHHH spring heading T HHHH p.79 40–44 weeks A H H S S T/S T/S T A H H H/S H Kohlrabi p.80 12–16 weeks Cauliflower, mini p.79 13–18 weeks S S/T T/H H S A S S T/S T/S H H A S S S H/S H/S H H H H Celery root p.121 24–28 weeks Leek p.93 18–40 weeks H S H/T/S T T H TT HHH SS Celery, leaf p.121 12–15 weeks A H/S H/S T T THHHHHH H S H/T/S T T H/S H/T Lettuce, p.105 Mini: 8–10 weeks Celery, p.121 20–24 weeks all types Butterhead: 10–12 weeks self-blanching S ST T T H H H (continued over) Crisphead and cos: 12–13 weeks Iceberg: 14 weeks Celery, trench p.121 34–38 weeks SSTT
240 CROP PLANNER Crop Season Crop Season SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER EML EML EML EML EML EML EML EML Lettuce, p.105 S T T T H H SS Scallion p.94 10–14 weeks Scorzonera all types HHH S S Sea kale A H/S H/S S H/S H/S H/S H/S H (cont.) A S S S S H/S H/S H/S H H p.87 27 weeks Mibuna and p.106 4–12 weeks A H/S S S S HHHHH Mizuna greens S S THHH p.135 2 years, 18 weeks SS HHH HHH T S A S SHHHH A H/P H/S H Mustard and p.106 2 weeks Shallot p.94 16–32 weeks cress A S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H T HH S HH PPP Mustard greens p.127 6–8 weeks A P S/P S and spinach cress S S T/H T/H H Spinach p.128 10–12 weeks A S S S/H H H H T/H H SS SS New Zealand p.127 6 weeks A S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H S/H H H spinach S TH Sprouting p.81 15–20 weeks or 46–50 weeks Okra A S SHHHH broccoli H/T/S H/T/S H/T/S H/T H/T T/H H H H H/S Strawberry, H p.112 18–23 weeks A H/S H/S H/S S/T/H S/T/H T/H H H H S S T THHH p.211 10–20 weeks Onion, bulb p.92 from seed: 24–40 weeks; sets: 24–36 weeks alpine S S/P/T P/T/H H H H H/S T/S T/S Strawberry, ST T HH S A PHHHH PP A P S/P H H H H/S S/P S/P p.211 36–52 weeks Onion, green p.94 24–30 weeks perpetual P/H P/H P/H H H P P Strawberry, H/S/P H/S/P H/S/P H H S/H H H H H H H A P P P/H H/P H/P H/P H/P H/P P H/S H/S H/S H/S H/S H/S Onion, Ap.93 10–14 weeks p.211 40–52 weeks S HHHHHH Japanese bunching TTT H summer bearing H/P H/P P PP HPPP A SSS HHHHH A P P P H/P H/P P P P P Onion, pickling p.93 20–22 weeks Summer squash p.117 14–18 weeks AS S S ST T H H Onion, p.94 36–40 weeks A S HH tree or Egyptian AP P P Sweet melon p.118 18–23 weeks Oyster plant p.87 27–45 weeks S THHHH A H/S S S SS HH Parsley p.144 12–20 weeks Sweet pepper p.111 18–23 weeks S T/S S/T T/H T/H H H H SS S S T THHHH SS HH Sweet potato p.88 27 weeks A S S S SHH SSTT H Parsley p.86 28–36 weeks Swiss chard or p.128 8–12 weeks root spinach beet Parsnip AH H S S S H H H H H H H A S S/T H/S H H H H H Texsel greens AH H H H H Pea p.86 16–18 weeks SS Tomatillo A H H/S S HHHHHHH p.81 5–8 weeks p.99 12–14 weeks A S S H/S H/S H/S H/S H/S T T TH S SS p.113 18–23 weeks HS S S S T THHH A S S S S/H S/H H H H Tomato p.113 18–23 weeks Potato, p.86 14–20 weeks S S T THHHH S early PP HHH Turnip p.88 6–10 weeks Potato, p.86 20 weeks S SHHH S maincrop Pumpkin A PP HHHH A S S S/H S/H S/H H H H H p.118 23–27 weeks Turnip tops p.88 4–6 weeks Vegetable S ST T HH AS H S SHH HH AS p.119 14–18 weeks Purslane p.107 4–12 weeks marrow S ST T H H Watermelon SH A S HH A S S S/H H H H p.119 18–23 weeks Radish, p.106 2–8 weeks STT HH summer TH SS Winter purslane p.107 12 weeks S HH S S THH A S S H/S H/S H/S H/S H H H H A S S S SHHHH Radish, winter p.106 12–20 weeks Winter squash p.118 23–27 weeks A S SHHHHH S ST T HH HH Rhubarb p.135 2 years AS T HHH S Zucchini p.117 9–14 weeks AP HHHHHP P P P P S T/S T H H Rutabaga p.88 20–26 weeks A S HH A SS HHHH
242 AVERAGE CROP YIELDS Average crop yields Use this chart to help plan your crops. of fruit trees and bushes, and specific each crop to plant. For more detail, All quantities are approximate, and will growing conditions of vegetables. They see individual crop entries, pp.74–135 and vary from year to year, depending on are provided here as a quick-reference 174–237. Culinary herbs are harvested season, spacing, stage of harvesting, age guide when deciding how much of continuously, so are not included here. AVERAGE VEGETABLE YIELDS Crop Yield Crop Yield Amaranth 16lb per 10ft (7.25kg per 3m) row Lettuce, butterhead 9–12 heads per 10ft (3m) row American cress 18–20 heads per 10ft (3m) row Lettuce, cos 9–12 heads per 10ft (3m) row Artichoke 6–15 large, 24–60 small, per 10ft (3m) row Lettuce, crisphead 8–9 heads per 10ft (3m) row Arugula 9–12 bunches per 10ft (3m) row Lettuce, iceberg 8–9 heads per 10ft (3m) row Asparagus 9–12 spears per crown Lettuce, mini 18–20 heads per 10ft (3m) row Asparagus pea 1lb per 10ft (450g per 3m) row Mibuna and Mizuna greens 6–9 heads per 10ft (3m) row Bean, asparagus or 11⁄4lb per 10ft (560g per 3m) row Mustard greens 3–4lb per sq yd (1.5kg per sq m) yardlong New Zealand spinach 13lb per 10ft (6kg per 3m) row Bean, fava 61⁄2lb per 10ft (3kg per 3m) row Okra 31⁄4lb per 10ft (1.5kg per 3m) row Bean, French or kidney 10lb per 10ft (4.5kg per 3m) row Onion, bulb 60 small, 30 large, or 15 very large onions, Bean, lima or butter 11⁄4lb per 10ft (560g per 3m) row approx 21⁄4–61⁄2lb (1–3kg) per 10ft (3m) row Bean, runner 13lb per 10ft (6kg per 3m) row Onion, Japanese bunching 250–300, or 40–50 large, per 10ft (3m) Beet 30 1–2lb per 10ft (450g–1kg per 3m) row beet row Onion, pickling 21⁄4–3lb per 10ft (1–1.5kg per 3m) row Bok choy 9–12 heads per 10ft (3m) row Oyster plant 3lb per 10ft (1.5kg per 3m) row Brussels sprout 60–70 sprouts per plant Parsley root 61⁄2lb per 10ft (3kg per 3m) row Cabbage, Chinese 9–12 heads per 10ft (3m) row Parsnip 9lb per 10ft (4kg per 3m) row Cabbage, spring 12 4–8oz (110–225g) heads per 10ft Pea (all types) 61⁄2lb per 10ft (3kg per 3m) row (3m) row Potato early: 10lb per 10ft (4.5kg per 3m) row; Cabbage, summer or fall 6–8 cabbages, 1–2lb (450–900g) each, maincrop: 22lb per 10ft (10kg per 3m) row per 10ft (3m) row Pumpkin 1 large or 4–6 small fruits per plant Calabrese broccoli 4–8oz (110–225g) per plant Purslane 20–24 bunches per 10ft (3m) row Cardoon 3–6 heads per 10ft (3m) row Radish, summer 100–120 per 10ft (3m) row Carrot 6lb per 10ft (3kg per 3m) row Radish, winter 10 per 10ft (3m) row Cauliflower 5–6 (or up to 20 mini) curds per 10ft Rhubarb 10–30lb per 10ft (4.5–13.5kg per 3m) (3m) row row Celery 12 heads, 1lb (450g) each, per 10ft Rutabaga 13lb per 10ft (6kg per 3m) row (3m) row Scallion 250–300 per 10ft (3m) row Celery root 10 heads, 8–12oz (225–400g) each, Scorzonera 3lb per 10ft (1.5kg per 3m) row per 10ft (3m) row Sea kale 8–10 stems per plant Ceylon or Malabar spinach 61⁄2lb per 10ft (3kg per 3m) row Shallot 60–180 shallots per 10ft (3m) row Chicory 8–9 heads per 10ft (3m) row Spinach 13lb per 10ft (6kg per 3m) row Chile pepper 61⁄2–10lb per 10ft (3–4.5kg per 3m) row Sprouting broccoli 3–4lb per 10ft (1.5kg per 3m) row Chinese artichoke 20–30 tubers per plant Summer squash 6–8 small fruits per plant Chinese broccoli 9–12 bunches per 10ft (3m) row Sweet melon 2–4 fruits per plant Corn 6–9 cobs per sq yd (sq m) Sweet pepper 6–10lb per 10ft (2.75–4.5kg per 3m) row Corn salad or lamb’s lettuce 18–20 heads per 10ft (3m) row Sweet potato 3lb per 10ft (1.5kg per 3m) row Cucumber 15 fruits per plant Swiss chard or spinach beet 13lb per 10ft (6kg per 3m) row Eggplant 61⁄2–10lb per 10ft (3–4.5kg per 3m) row Texsel greens (salad crop) 13–20lb per 10ft (6–9kg per 3m) row Endive 9–12 heads per 10ft (3m) row Tomatillo 21⁄4–41⁄2lb (1–2kg) per plant Florence fennel 3–5lb per 10ft (1.4–2.25kg per 3m) row Tomato, bush outdoors 9lb (4kg) per plant Flowering greens or 9–12 bunches per 10ft (3m) row Tomato, vine outdoors 4–9lb (1.8–4kg) per plant choy sum Tomato, vine 6–11lb (2.75–5kg) per plant Garlic 17 bulbs per 10ft (3m) row greenhouse, unheated Gherkin 30 fruits per plant Turnip 30 1–11⁄2lb (500–750g) turnips, or 48 Ice plant 10lb per 10ft (4.5kg per 3m) row multiblock (baby) turnips, per 10ft (3m) row Japanese mustard spinach 6–9 heads per 10ft (3m) row Turnip tops 1lb (500g) per 10ft (3m) row Jerusalem artichoke 10–12 tubers per plant Watermelon 1–2 fruits per plant Kale or curly kale 4–5lb per 10ft (1.8–2.25kg per 3m) row Winter purslane 20–24 bunches per 10ft (3m) row Kohlrabi 4–6lb per 10ft (2.5kg per 3m) row Winter squash 1 large or 4–6 small fruits per plant Leaf celery 15–20 heads per 10ft (3m) row Zucchini 6–12 fruits per plant; Leek early: 81⁄2–13lb per 10ft (4–6kg per 3m) row; 10lb per 10ft (4.5kg per 3m) row late: 61⁄2–11lb per 10ft (3–5kg per 3m) row
SEASONAL TASKS 243 AVERAGE FRUIT YIELDS Crop Yield Crop Yield Almond Erratic cropping Peach, fan 12–25lb (5.5–11.25k) per tree Apple, bush 60–120lb (27–55kg) per tree Pear, bush 40–100lb (18–45.5kg) per tree Apple, dwarf/spindle/ 30–50lb (13.5–22.5kg) per tree Pear, dwarf/spindle/ 20–40lb (9–18kg) per tree pyramid pyramid Apple, espalier 30–40lb (13.5–18kg) per tree Pear, espalier 20–30lb (9–13.5kg) per tree Apple, fan 12–30lb (5.5–13.5kg) per tree Pear, fan 12–30lb (5.5–13.5kg) per tree Apple, single cordon 5–10lb (2.25–4.5kg) per tree Pear, single cordon 4–8lb (1.75–3.5kg) per tree Apricot, bush 30–100lb (13.5–45.5kg) per tree Plum, bush 30–60lb (13.5–27kg) per tree Apricot, fan 12–35lb (5.5–15.75kg) per tree Plum, fan 15–25lb (6.75–11.25kg) per tree Blackberry 15–20lb per 10ft (6.75–9kg per 3m) row Plum, pyramid 30–50lb (13.5–22.5kg) per tree Black currant 10lb (4.5kg) per bush Plum, single cordon 8–15lb (3.5–6.75kg) per tree Blueberry 5–11lb (2.25–5kg) per bush Quince, bush 55–100lb (25–45.5kg) from a mature tree Cranberry 1–1.5lb per sq yd (0.5–0.75kg per sq m) Raspberry 15–20lb per 10ft (6.75–9kg per 3m) row Fig 5–20lb (2.25–9kg) from a mature fan Red currant 9–11lb (4–5kg) per bush Gooseberry 7–10lb (3.5–4.5 kg) per bush Sour cherry, bush 30–40lb (13.5kg–18kg) per tree Grape 5–8lb (2.25–3.5kg) or 8–10 bunches from Sour cherry, fan 12–35lb (5.5–15.75kg) per tree a mature single cordon or single guyot Strawberry 1lb (450g) per plant Hazelnut and filbert 11–35lb (5–15.75kg) from a mature bush Sweet cherry, bush 30–100lb (13.5–45.5kg) per tree Medlar 30–60lb (13.5–27kg) from a mature standard Sweet cherry, fan 12–35lb (5.5–15.75kg) per tree Mulberry Erratic cropping Sweet cherry, 30–60lb (13.5–27kg) per tree Nectarine, bush 30–60lb (13.5–27kg) per tree pyramid Nectarine, fan 12–25lb (5.5–11.25kg) per tree Walnut Erratic cropping Peach, bush 30–60lb (13.5–27kg) per tree White currant 9–11lb (4–5kg) per bush Seasonal tasks Use this chart as a handy reminder forward planning, but bear in mind that example, will be later at more northerly of seasonal tasks to do in the kitchen timings of operations vary considerably latitudes and higher altitudes. Make garden. As a distillation of advice from because climatic conditions differ from allowances also for seasonal fluctuations, text throughout the book, it aims to aid region to region. Sowing dates, for such as cold springs or mild winters. SEASONAL TASKS PLANNER Fruit Vegetables and herbs Early spring Early spring ■ Finish planting and pruning fruit trees and bushes. ■ Prune flowering hazelnuts and filberts if pollen is being shed. ■ Sow fava beans, Brussels sprouts, calabrese broccoli, leeks, lettuce, onions, ■ Mulch young trees, fruit bushes, raspberries, and other cane fruits, parsley, parsnips, peas, radishes, red cabbage, arugula, oyster plants, and apply fertilizers that are appropriate to the fruit in question. scorzonera, spinach, scallions, summer cauliflowers, texsel greens, turnips, and ■ Control weeds in all fruit beds, preferably by hand pulling—to prevent hardy annual herbs, for example dill and chervil, when conditions are favorable. potential root damage by hoeing. ■ Protect newly sown crops with cloches in very cold areas. ■ Prune fan-trained peaches, nectarines, and apricots. ■ Sow asparagus peas, eggplants, beets, cardoons, carrots (Amsterdam, ■ Where mildew has been a problem, spray gooseberries just before Nantes, and Round), celery root, celery, cucumbers, Florence fennel, leeks, the flowers open and continue at intervals of every two weeks. Check lettuce, parsley, peppers, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, tomatillos, and half-hardy integrity of netting covers to ensure continued protection against herbs, such as basil, under glass or in frames, as appropriate. bullfinches, which eat the buds. ■ Plant asparagus, early summer cauliflowers, artichokes and Jerusalem artichokes, ■ Hand-pollinate wall-trained fruit if insects are not on the wing. garlic, onion sets and seedlings, early potatoes, rhubarb, shallots, and sea kale. Protect flowers from frost. ■ Harvest last of winter brassicas under cloches. ■ Aid pollination on vines under protection (glass). ■ Cut back old growth on perennial herbs, and divide clump-forming herbs, ■ Check blackberries, loganberries, and tayberries, and tie canes if not done in fall. into wires as necessary. ■ Lift invasive herbs planted in sunken containers, divide, and replant. ■ Plant strawberry runners in prepared ground, and mulch. ■ Discard or plant out herbs that were potted up for winter use. ■ Neaten up strawberry beds, removing dead, damaged, and ■ Hoe regularly between crops to keep down weeds. diseased leaves and old runners. ■ Mulch around plants to suppress weeds and conserve moisture in soil. ■ Cover established flowering strawberries with cloches or fleece for ■ Fork over soil, weed, and apply fertilizer in preparation for later sowings earlier fruits; lift during the day for pollinating insects to do their work. and plantings. ■ Sow green manures on vacant plots.
244 SEASONAL TASKS SEASONAL TASKS PLANNER Fruit Mid-spring Vegetables and herbs ■ Pick flowers off new young strawberry plants, which should not be allowed Mid-spring to flower in their first year. ■ Finish planting raspberries, if not done in late fall. ■ Outdoors, sow beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, calabrese broccoli, ■ Prune and tie in new growth on fig trees if necessary. carrots, cauliflowers, corn salad, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, peas, radish, arugula, ■ Hand-pollinate wall-trained fruit with a soft brush, if necessary. oyster plants, scorzonera, spinach, Swiss chard, turnips. Begin successional ■ Check nets, stakes, and ties. sowing of regularly used herbs. ■ Prune young stone fruit trees, and branch leaders on trained trees and ■ Sow asparagus peas, celery root, celery, French, fava, lima, and runner plum pyramids. beans, okra, corn, and sweet melons under glass. ■ Protect almond and plum flowers and those of wall-trained sweet ■ Plant out artichokes and Jerusalem artichokes, onion sets, and potatoes, cherries from late frosts. and transplant cabbages, leeks, Japanese onions, and sea kale. ■ Pick off sawfly caterpillars if they attack gooseberry and currant bushes. ■ Water and continue weeding newly planted vegetables and herbs. ■ Erect supports for peas and climbing beans. Late spring ■ Continue earthing up potatoes; pull up Brussels sprouts’ stumps. ■ Repot or top-dress plants in containers. ■ Pick off sawfly caterpillars if they attack gooseberry bushes. ■ Start to pick gooseberries that have been grown under protection. Late spring ■ Pull out any new young raspberry canes that emerge a long way from the original rows. ■ Sow under glass zucchini, pumpkins, and summer and winter squash. ■ Water as necessary, especially wall-trained trees. ■ Outdoors, sow fall, winter, and spring cauliflowers, carrots, chicory, endive, ■ Continue to weed strawberries, and put straw around the plants, together French and runner beans, parsley root, lettuces, parsnips, peas, purslane, radish, with a sprinkling of slug pellets if slugs are known to be a problem. arugula, oyster plants, scorzonera, spinach, corn, and Swiss chard. ■ Put netting over developing soft fruit. ■ Begin to transplant or pot on eggplants, cucumbers, peppers, indoor tomatoes ■ Begin to tie in selected shoots to extend framework of wall-trained peaches, and tomatillos under glass. nectarines, apricots, and plums, and thin out badly placed new shoots. ■ Harden off and transplant well-developed seedlings of cauliflowers, ■ Prune fan-trained sour cherries. cabbages, and other brassicas, cardoons, celery root, celery, zucchini, ■ Begin to pinch out and disbud new vine shoots, to leave two laterals Florence fennel, leeks. Provide cloche or fleece protection as needed. at each spur. ■ Stake peas; finish earthing up potatoes; weed and mulch vegetables. ■ Remove blossom from newly planted fruit trees. ■ Sow seed outdoors of hardy and half-hardy annual herbs. ■ Water and feed container-grown plants. Early summer ■ Harvest asparagus, fava beans, kohlrabi, radish, rhubarb, texsel greens and early salad leaves. ■ Check and water all fruit trees and bushes in dry periods. ■ Prepare the soil for summer planting of moisture-loving herbs. ■ Pick strawberries, raspberries, currants, and gooseberries regularly. ■ Begin to train and tie in new shoots of blackberries and hybrid berries. Early summer ■ Remove strawberry runners unless needed to make new plants. ■ Begin routine thinning of tree and wall-trained fruits. ■ Sow beets, calabrese broccoli, carrots, chard, chicory, zucchini, outdoor ■ Tie in framework shoots on wall-trained plums and sweet cherries, shorten cucumbers, endive, Florence fennel, French and runner beans, kohlrabi, the remainder, and pinch or prune out any going in the wrong direction. lettuce, parsley, peas, radishes, arugula, scallions, squash, and rutabagas. ■ Tie in selected shoots of wall-trained peaches and nectarines, and thin ■ Finish transplanting eggplants, cucumbers, peppers, indoor tomatoes, the fruit if necessary. and tomatillos grown under glass. ■ Pinch out shoot tips on figs. ■ Transplant broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery root, ■ Protect ripening fruits of wall-trained cherries from rain and birds. celery, zucchini, French, lima and runner beans, kale, leeks, pumpkins, corn, ■ Put up pheronome traps for codling and plum moths. outdoor tomatoes, and winter squash. ■ Water, feed, and weed outdoor crops as necessary. Midsummer ■ Continue sowing annual and biennial herbs, such as cilantro, fennel, dill, and parsley, outdoors every 2–4 weeks. Pick and deadhead regularly. ■ Continue to train in the canes of blackberries and hybrid berries. ■ Plant container-grown herbs, and mulch moisture-loving herbs. ■ After fruiting, cut the leaves off strawberry plants, remove the straw, ■ Harvest beets, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, radishes, and salad onions. and weed between the rows. Water if dry. ■ Finish thinning tree fruits that have not thinned themselves naturally. Midsummer ■ Continue to train and tie in tree fruit growing against walls. ■ Support branches of plum trees that are very heavily laden, if necessary. ■ Watch for blight on maincrop potatoes and spray if necessary. ■ Protect cane fruits against raspberry beetle. ■ Earth up Brussels sprouts and other brassicas on exposed, windy sites. ■ Nip out sideshoots and the tops of outdoor cordon tomatoes when 4 or 5 Late summer trusses have set fruit. ■ Lift garlic and dry off the bulbs. ■ Begin summer pruning of restricted forms of apples and pears. ■ Train in climbing vegetables to their supports. ■ Plant out well-rooted runners in new strawberry beds. ■ Top-dress Brussels sprouts, weed, feed, and water other vegetable crops ■ After summer-fruiting raspberries fruit, cut out old canes; tie in new ones. as appropriate. Feed and water herbs in containers. ■ Prune damsons and plums, if necessary, when they have fruited and cut ■ Deadhead herbs unless seed is needed. out any damaged branches. ■ Harvest summer vegetables, salad leaves, and herbs. ■ Summer prune peaches and nectarines after fruiting. ■ Take semiripe, softwood, and stem cuttings of perennial and shrubby herbs. ■ Prune fan-trained sour cherries, cut out wood which has borne fruit, ■ Gather seed from annual and biennial herbs as soon as it is ripe. Clean the after fruiting, and secure new shoots by tying in. seed and store in paper packets in a cool, dry, dark place. ■ Sow beets, calabrese broccoli, kohlrabi, Oriental greens, and salad onions. Late summer ■ Lift onions and shallots and dry them off before storing them. ■ Cut off and burn the top-growth of maincrop potatoes if it is blighted. ■ Sow endive, kohlrabi, Oriental and winter salad leaves, radishes, scorzonera, spinach, spring cabbage, turnips, and winter radish. ■ Continue to harvest summer vegetables, salad leaves, and herbs. ■ Begin to harvest early Brussels sprouts, fall cabbage, parsley root, baby leeks, lima beans, mini-cauliflowers, early parsnips, and corn. ■ Pick leaves or sprigs regularly of all herbs to keep the plants productive.
SEASONAL TASKS 245 SEASONAL TASKS PLANNER Fruit Vegetables and herbs Early fall Late summer (cont.) ■ After fruiting, cut out at base old canes of blackberries and other hybrid berries, and tie in new canes. ■ Deadhead shrubby herbs as the flowers fade and start cutting them back. ■ Weed thoroughly around fruit trees growing in grass. ■ Dig in any earlier sowings of green manures before they flower. ■ Cut off and burn any mildewed top-growth on gooseberries. ■ Regularly pick and deadhead second-year biennial herbs. ■ Order new fruit trees and bushes. ■ Finish summer pruning of restricted forms of apples and pears, if not Early fall done already. ■ Shorten shoots and cut out wood which has borne fruit on wall-trained sour ■ Cut down dying haulms of maincrop potatoes prior to lifting them. cherries, after fruiting, if not done already, and secure new shoots by tying in. ■ Ripen pumpkins and winter squash before storing them. ■ Harvest fall brassicas and continue to earth up winter brassicas. Mid-fall ■ Transplant spring cabbages. ■ Sow Oriental salad leaves, Japanese onions, and spinach. ■ Harvest and store good fruit in cool, frost-free place. ■ Lift Witloof chicory for forcing and red and sugarloaf chicory for late ■ Take cuttings, if necessary, from gooseberry and currant bushes. crops in a cold greenhouse. ■ Prepare ground for planting new fruit trees and bushes. ■ Sow seed outdoors of hardy annual herbs for early crops next year. ■ Neaten up alpine strawberry plants, removing dead leaves. ■ Lift, divide, and pot up mature herb plants for winter use indoors. ■ Apply grease bands to fruit trees to protect against winter moths. ■ Take hardwood or semiripe cuttings and finish cutting back shrubby herbs. ■ Divide clump-forming and rhizomatous herbs after flowering, if not done Late fall in early spring. Transplant rooted shoots of mound-layered shrubby herbs. ■ Begin planting out seedlings of biennial herbs into their final positions. ■ Finish picking apples and pears and store sound fruit. ■ Begin planting new fruit trees, bushes, and raspberry canes as soon Mid-fall as possible after leaf fall. ■ Check tree ties and rabbit guards on fruit trees. ■ Store root vegetables such as beets, cabbage hispi, carrots, rutabagas, ■ Net apples, pears, and plums against bullfinches, which attack fruit buds. and turnips as you lift them. Keep them in a cool, frost-free place. ■ Plant garlic; sow fava beans, calabrese broccoli, carrots, early summer Early winter cauliflowers, peas. Protect seedlings over winter with cloches. ■ Continue to harvest fall brassicas, and lift and store root crops. ■ Prepare ground for spring planting. ■ Clear away bean sticks, tomato stakes, and rotting vegetation. ■ Inspect stored apples and pears regularly, and take out any fruit that ■ Cut down stems of asparagus and Jerusalem artichokes. is starting to go rotten. ■ Manure and dig ground once it has been cleared of crops. ■ Continue planting out seedlings of biennial herbs to their final positions. Midwinter ■ Sow seed outdoors of hardy annual herbs for early crops next year. ■ Inspect stored apples and pears regularly, and take out any fruit that Late fall is starting to go rotten. ■ Prune apples and pears if frosts are not too hard. ■ In cold areas, protect artichoke crowns with straw or bracken. ■ Continue to plant fruit trees and bushes if weather permits. ■ Plant rhubarb. ■ Insulate pots of container-grown fruits in severe weather. ■ Sow fava beans and hardy lettuce and sow Japanese onions under cover. ■ Begin spraying peaches and nectarines against peach leaf curl. ■ Continue to plant garlic. ■ Continue lifting and storing root crops and net and hang fall cabbages. Late winter ■ Burn or dispose of off-site any brassica material affected by clubroot. ■ Move tender and container-grown herbs under cover for winter before frosts. ■ Cover strawberry plants with cloches for an early crop. ■ Finish planting out biennial herb seedlings to their final positions. ■ Prune hazelnuts and filberts when the catkins are shedding pollen. ■ Finish sowing seed outdoors of hardy annual herbs, for an early flush of ■ Continue to plant fruit trees and bushes, if weather permits. growth next year. In cold regions, protect seedlings over winter with cloches. ■ Check tree ties and rabbit guards on fruit trees. ■ Collect fallen leaves and stack to make leaf mold. ■ Manure and dig ground once it has been cleared of crops. Early winter ■ Continue to harvest winter vegetables. ■ Plant cabbage ‘Hispi’ in frames or greenhouse. ■ Check stored vegetables and remove any that show signs of rot. ■ Prepare ground for spring planting; apply lime as necessary. ■ Order vegetable seeds and seed potatoes. Midwinter ■ Force rhubarb from midwinter onward. ■ Sow fava beans, early summer cauliflowers, Amsterdam, Round, and Nantes carrots, leeks, lettuce, and onions and shallots under cover. ■ Plant onion and shallot sets and garlic under cover. ■ Set out seed potatoes in boxes to pregerminate. ■ Continue to prepare ground for spring planting; apply lime as necessary. Late winter ■ Finish digging and manuring ground, and prepare it for spring planting. ■ Prepare seedbeds for early sowings. ■ Apply sheet mulches or cloches to warm up prepared soil prior to sowing. ■ Sow tomatoes, flowering greens, artichokes, and lettuce in warmth. ■ Sow fava beans, Brussels sprouts, early summer cabbages, leeks, onions, peas, radishes, shallots, sea kale, spinach, and turnips under cover. Sow peas and hardy lettuce in mild areas. ■ Plant rhubarb. ■ Plant Jerusalem artichokes under cloches.
246 PLANT PROBLEMS Plant problems The first lines of defense against plant entry throughout the book; these problems in the kitchen garden are direct you to the relevant information to use sound cultivation techniques, in the “A–Z of plant problems.” Or sustain a fertile soil, and practice good you may prefer to use the quick- hygiene (see pp.51–52). This ensures reference charts (see pp.247–249) to strong crops with natural resistance to identify a possible problem from signs pests, diseases, and cultural disorders. visible on the plant. For example, if But even a well-managed garden may you observe deformed roots on your suffer infestations. sea kale, look up the “Roots and tubers” column; you will find the most This section forms a handy reference likely culprit, clubroot, listed. A third to the most common problems that option—for experienced gardeners— you may encounter. Unusual problems is simply to confirm your suspicions have been omitted—to include them by looking up details directly. would be to imply that plants are always beset by legions of pests and The controls described in the diseases, which is seldom the case. “A–Z of plant problems” include Some crops, such as brassicas, attract chemical and organic methods, as many problems, while others, like well as cultural ones that reduce or medlars, suffer relatively few. avoid infection or infestation. The importance of prompt action cannot For ease of reference, pests, diseases, be underestimated—the earlier you and cultural disorders are listed together control a problem, the less damage alphabetically in the following “A–Z of will be sustained by the crop. Untreated plant problems” (pp. 251–264). Solutions disorders may also spread to other can be accessed in several ways. crops or become established in the soil, leading to recurring troubles with crops A list of the most usual problems is in following years. found under the heading “Common problems” in each individual crop How to use this section ▼ Symptom identification chart for each crop are in columns that indicate the Charts on the following pages list each crop part of the plant in which symptoms appear. by common name. The most likely problems Crop Symptoms Strawberry Roots Leaves Fruits Site of plant and stems and flowers symptoms Honey fungus In strawberries, Red core Aphids Birds powdery mildew Verticillium wilt Powdery mildew Botrytis affects leaves, Vine weevil Red spider mite Powdery mildew stems, and fruits Strawberry viruses Slugs & Snails Squirrels Strawberry seed beetle ▶ A-Z listings Black bean aphid Crops affected The “A–Z of plant problems” Plants listed here forms a directory of the ■ Crops affected Artichoke, beans, beets, include those most pests, diseases, and cultural and cardoon. affected, as detailed disorders affecting crops ■ Symptoms Clusters of black insects, to on charts, as well as covered in this book. The 1⁄16in (2mm) long, congregate at stem tips and plants that may act directory lists all problems beneath leaves. Plants are weakened and bean as hosts or suffer in alphabetical order. Each pods fail to develop. little real damage. entry discusses crops ■ Cause A sap-feeding aphid, Aphis fabae. affected, symptoms, causes, ■ Control Inspect plants regularly; if Cross-reference and controls—biological or beans have reached almost full size, pinch Alternative names cultural remedies are given out infested shoot tips and destroy them. cross-referenced as the preferred option. The organic insecticides pyrethrum, and to relevant entry fatty acids are effective if used before heavy infestations develop. Use deltamethrin or lambda-cyhalothrin on bean crops. Blackberry cane spot: see Cane spot.
PLANT PROBLEMS 247 COMMON VEGETABLE PROBLEMS Crop Symptoms Crop Symptoms Cucumber Roots Leaves Fruits, pods, Roots Leaves Fruits, pods, and tubers and stems and seeds and tubers and stems and seeds Amaranth — Aphids — Foot & root rots Cucumber mosaic Bitter fruits American cress Powdery mildew Bean seed fly virus Poorly formed Artichoke Honey fungus Powdery mildew fruits Arugula Root aphid No major problems Artichoke Eggplant — Red spider mite Asparagus — bud rot Slugs & Snails Botrytis Black bean aphid — Whitefly Bean, fava Foot & root rots Slugs & Snails — Violet root rot — Aphids Fusarium wilt Flea beetle Red spider mite — — Slugs & Snails Bean seed beetle Endive Rhizoctonia Verticillium wilt Birds Florence fennel Whitefly Bean, French, Bean seed fly Asparagus beetle Mice Flowering greens — runner, and Foot & root rots Foot & root rots Rusts Garlic As for Chicory lima Root aphid Slugs & Snails Anthracnose Ice plant Root aphid Birds Japanese Mustard Slugs Slugs Black bean aphid Mice Spinach Chocolate spot Rusts Jerusalem Cutworm As for Brassicas Pea & bean weevil artichoke Onion fly Rusts — Kale Cutworm As for Onion Kohlrabi Leatherjackets Anthracnose Bolting Leek Lettuce root Slugs Black bean aphid aphid Halo blight Lettuce Wireworm As for Brassicas Red spider mite Beets Cutworm Rusts Sclerotinia Slugs & Snails Slugs & Snails Bok choy Cabbage root fly — Brassicas Clubroot Black bean aphid As for Brassicas — Cutworm Boron deficiency Leatherjacket Damping off Malabar spinach As for Brassicas — Leaf spot (fungal) Melon, sweet Manganese Foot & root rots As for Onion deficiency Bean seed fly Leek rust As for Brassicas Mibuna and Aphids Mizuna greens Botrytis Birds (pigeons) Downy mildew Boron deficiency Mint Sclerotinia Caterpillars Slugs & Snails Downy mildew Mustard and Tip burn Flea beetle Cress Leaf spot (bacterial) No major problems Mealy cabbage Mustard greens aphid Aphids Molybdenum New Zealand Cucumber mosaic deficiency spinach virus Powdery mildew Powdery mildew Slugs & Snails Okra Red spider mite Whitefly Slugs & Snails White blister Whitefly As for Brassicas As for Brassicas Broccoli As for Brassicas — Mint rust — Brussels sprouts — Botrytis — Cabbage As for Brassicas Damping off Calabrese broccoli Root aphid Artichoke — As for Brassicas Cardoon As for Brassicas bud rot As for Spinach Carrot Carrot fly Black bean aphid — Aphids Botrytis Root aphid Slugs & Snails Red spider mite Bolting Cauliflower Violet root rot Onion, bulb, Fusarium Whitefly Celery, leaf Aphids — green, Japanese Onion fly celery Carrot fly Powdery mildew Onion neck rot Birds Foot & root rots bunching, Onion white rot Downy mildew Celery, root Violet root rot As for Brassicas tree, or Onion thrips Ceylon spinach Egyptian, and — Stem & bulb nematode Chicory Lettuce root Celery leaf miner shallot Viruses aphid Leaf spot (fungal) Parsnip canker Chinese artichoke Slugs Slugs & Snails Oyster plant Carrot fly White blister — Chinese broccoli Root aphid — Parsley root Violet root rot Chinese cabbage As for Celery Foot & root rots As for Parsnip — Corn — — Parsnip No major problems Celery leaf miner Birds Pea, all types Downy mildew Downy mildew Slugs & Snails Powdery mildew Pea leaf and Corn salad — Tip burn Badgers pod spot Squirrels Birds (Pigeon) Pea moth Slugs & Snails Sweetcorn smut Downy mildew Pea seed beetle Mice Pea thrips As for Brassicas — Pea aphid Powdery mildew As for Brassicas Pea thrips Pea & bean weevil Birds Frit fly Mice Aphids Slugs
248 PLANT PROBLEMS COMMON VEGETABLE PROBLEMS Crop Symptoms Crop Symptoms Roots Leaves Fruits, pods, Squash, summer Roots Leaves Fruits, pods, and tubers and stems and seeds Squash, winter and tubers and stems and seeds Blossom end rot Sunflower Pepper, chile — Aphids, Botrytis — Sweet potato — As for Zucchini — and sweet Red spider mite — — Potato Cutworm Viruses — Swiss chard, As for Pumpkin Potato blight Whitefly — spinach beet — — Pumpkin — Texsel greens Slugs & Snails Potato common Black leg — Tomatillo Foot & root rots scab Colorado potato — Tomato Potato cyst Aphids Potato cyst beetle nematode Red spider mite nematode Frost damage — Turnip, turnip Whitefly Potato powdery Potato blight — tops Cabbage root fly scab Potato viruses Bolting Clubroot Leaf spot (fungal) Slugs Slugs & Snails Watermelon Cutworm Wireworm Winter purslane Turnip gall weevil As for Brassicas Blossom end rot Foot & root rots Cucumber Zucchini Wireworm Caterpillars mosaic virus No major problems Potato blight Purslane — Powdery mildew — Tomato blotchy Radish Slugs & Snails Bean seed fly Caterpillars ripening Cabbage root fly Foot & root rots Magnesium Tomato ghost Rhubarb Clubroot Slugs & Snails deficiency spot Potato blight Honey fungus Flea beetle Red spider mite — Slugs & Snails Viruses Whitefly Crown rot Leaf spots Downy mildew Slugs & Snails Flea beetle Viruses Powdery mildew Rutabaga Cabbage root fly Boron deficiency As for melon, — Clubroot Downy mildew sweet Turnip gall weevil Flea beetle Bitter fruits Mealy cabbage Aphids Poorly formed aphid Slugs fruits Powdery mildew Slugs Cucumber mosaic Scallion — As for Onion virus Scorzonera Clubroot Powdery mildew Sea kale — White blister Red spider mite Spinach Slugs & Snails Flea beetle Whitefly Spinach mustard Birds Sprouting broccoli Downy mildew Rusts As for Brassicas As for Brassicas COMMON FRUIT PROBLEMS Crop Symptoms Crop Symptoms Blackberry Roots Leaves and Fruits, and Roots Leaves and Fruits, and stems flowers stems flowers Honey fungus Botrytis Almond Honey fungus Aphids Frost damage Phytophthora Aphids Raspberry beetle Apple Phytophthora Canker Split stone Cane spot (bacterial) Black currant Honey fungus Chlorosis Birds Apricot Honey fungus Peach leaf curl Apple scab (see also Red Phytophthora Leaf spot (fungal) Botrytis Phytophthora Red spider mite Apple sawfly & white currant) Raspberry spur Scale insect Apple sucker blight Birds Honey fungus Birds Blueberry Phytophthora Viruses Birds Phytophthora Apple scab Bitter pit Blossom wilt Apple powdery Blossom wilt Cherry, sweet Honey fungus American goose Brown rot mildew Brown rot and sour Phytophthora berry mildew Frost damage Blossom wilt Capsid bug (continued over) Aphids Canker (fungal) Codling moth Big bud mite Capsid bug Fireblight Blackcurrant gall Caterpillars Frost damage midge Fireblight Capsid bug Iron deficiency Birds Leaf spot (fungal) Red spider mite Reversion disease Replant disease Viruses Rosy apple aphid Woolly aphid Botrytis Winter moth Chlorosis Brown scale Aphids Canker (bacterial) Brown rot Dieback Canker (bacterial) Silver leaf Magnesium deficiency
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