Sewing Machine Operator

Sewing Machine Operator सिराई भशीन प्रचारक

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Participant’s Guide/Workbook for Sewing Machine Operator Version 1.0.0 प्रतिबागी की भागदग सशकग ा / कामऩग ुस्तिका सिराई भशीन प्रचारक ितं कयण 1.0.0 Page | 2

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Contents 1. Introduction and Orientation…………………………………………………………..5 2. Sewing machine basics………………………………………………………………….7 3. Carry out stitching activities using machine or by hand………………………..17 4. Stitching operations………………………………………………………………………24 5. Drafting and cutting the fabric…………………………………………………………67 6. Identify and use materials required based on the job……………………………..76 7. Carry out the process of sewing for dress materials and common household items of textiles………………………………………………………………………………………..85 8. Carry out inspections and alterations to adjust corrections for fittings…….139 9. Maintain work area, tools and machines………………………………………….182 10. Different types of stitches using a sewing machine…………………………..229 11. Maintain health, safety and security along with Covid Protocol…………..278 12. Comply with Industry, regulatory and organisational requirements…….325 13. First aid and CPR……………………………………………………………………341 Page | 3

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Foreword The present course book will empower a trainee to meet all the requirement, knowledge, skills as specified in Qualification package for Sewing Machine Operator as specified in reference code AMH/Q0301 published by NSDC. The course book will impart knowledge through class lectures as well as practical work for fixed duration every day. The course content is designed according to need of industrial work environment so emphasis has been paid in developing and making a trainee well aware of his duties, functions towards other colleagues and Industry. Regular Assessment will fuse the remaining confidence into mind of trainee and thus preparing him for the industrial work. Page | 4

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Chapter-1 Introduction and Orientation Sewing Machine Operator A Sewing Machine Operator is a significant activity job related to the Apparel area. The essential duty of a mechanic is to stitch/sew or synthetic materials to deliver attire. A Sewing Machine Operator ought to have great visual perception, eye-hand-leg coordination, engine aptitudes and vision (counting close to vision, separation vision, shading vision, fringe vision, and ability to change focus). Workplace of a Sewing Machine Operator Most sewing machine operators work in the garment industry, although tough industrial sewing machines are also used to make boat sails, curtains, fabric napkins and upholstery. Sewing machine operators may also work for sewing machine manufacturers. Their experience \"out in the trenches\" is invaluable for companies that are developing new sewing machine models because the operators know what works, what doesn't and what they'd change if they could. Those who specialize in altering wedding gowns often do their work in a small, cramped room in the rear of a bridal salon; others offer a broader range of Page | 5

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide alteration services and handle clothing for both women and men. Sewing machine operators who work for large clothing manufacturers often work in a huge warehouse environment, where the focus is on churning out garments as quickly as possible. If a sewing machine operator prefers creating and altering theatrical costumes, he or she can expect to set up shop in a long string of temporary locations. These operators must often bring their own sewing machine with them, and are given work space in the basement of a theatre or opera house. In this type of environment, the sewing machine operator must be able to think quickly, block out distractions and work under extremely short deadlines. Some sewing machine operators specialize in costumes for dancers and figure skaters; athletic costumes must be durable, comfortable, have an attractive appearance, and must also not interfere with the athlete's movements. Parts of the Sewing Machine and Functions.  Hand Wheel Bobbin Case  Thread Guides Needle  Bobbin Tension Disk  Spool Pin Take-Up Lever  Presser Foot Light Switch  Feed Dog Throat Plate  Clutch Release Machine Operator top skills & proficiencies:   Experience as a machine operator  Knowledge of production procedures  Ability to read blueprints, schematics and manuals  Analytical skills  Attention to detail  Teamwork  Physical stamina and strength  Handle heavy equipment  Work independently  Multitasking ability  Integrity  Good verbal communications skills  Active listening ability  Can mentor and teach colleagues with less experience  Problem-solving skills Page | 6

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Chapter-2 Sewing Machine Basics Sewing machine operators operate, inspect, and repair sewing machines. A sewing machine operator threads the machine (this is a very intricate process on many machine models), adjusts the tension settings based on the type of thread being used, selects stitch settings and then gets down to sewing. Sewing machine operators must monitor their machines for symptoms of metal fatigue or motor failure, and may have to perform minor repairs on the spot. Even experienced operators occasionally make mistakes; one of the most difficult aspects of work as a sewing machine operator is catching and fixing any mistakes made. Sewing machine operators must understand the limits of their machine. All sewing machines are not created equal; those with weaker motors cannot accommodate heavy fabrics such as denim and canvas and may break if the operator tries to force the fabric through. Needle selection is also relevant here; thicker fabrics require longer, thicker needles because they are stronger and less likely to bend or break. If the proper needle gauge and type of sewing machine are not available, the operator may have to hand-stitch the heaviest fabrics. This is time consuming, but prevents broken equipment and the injuries that may result from flying needle parts. Sewing machine operator's duties (depending on type of job):  Assemble pieces of garments by matching patterns and dye lots  Operate single, double or multi-needle serging, flat bed felling, banding and other sewing machines, to join sections of garments or other articles into finished products on a piece-work or production basis  Operate fur sewing machines to join fur pelt strips to required size and shape and join pelts into garment sections or shells  Operate stitching machines to sew leather parts together for leather garments, handbags, shoes and other leather articles  Operate serging machines to sew and overcast edges of material simultaneously  Operate tackers, pocketsetters, buttonhole makers and fusing, hemmer and other machines to perform various operations in the fabrication of garments and other articles  Examine garments and operate sewing machines, sergers and other machines to repair garments and other articles during the manufacturing process  Complete production reports  May perform minor maintenance and repairs on sewing machine Page | 7

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Sewing Machine Operator Responsibilities:  Deciding on appropriate sewing techniques before work commences.  Meeting with consumers and inspecting patterns to determine each job's requirements.  Performing alterations to existing patterns or creating your own ones.  Selecting suitable thread and placing this onto the spool spin.  Cutting, sewing, and gluing fabric according to the requirements of each article.  Affixing buttons, zippers, clasps, laces, and similar fittings.  Operating the foot pedal, plus the stitch length and width regulators, as you sew.  Replacing the sewing machine's needle, as required.  Detecting and repairing basic faults with the sewing machine as they occur.  Scheduling repairs for the sewing machine and its fittings, as needed. Job Descriptions for Apparel Production Sewer or Sewing Machine Operator: .  The sewing machine operator will come to the floor in time & shall clean the machine, workplace, etc.  He will check 7 to ensure that his workstation is in the right order.  He will seek necessary instruction from here supervisor regarding his job.  He will seek a mock up sample from her supervisors so that he can understand the job.  He will check the mock-up sample to understand the sewing technique & the level of quality.  He will check with the supervisor regarding his hourly & daily production target.  If he does not understand any point regarding sewing or quality, he will seek elaboration from the supervisor.  The sewing machine operator will ensure measurements of apparel as per the work order sheet or apparel specification sheet.  He will ensure necessary seam allowances as per instruction.  He will perform his job with utmost care so that no rejection or defect occurs.  He will handle apparel parts with care so that they do not spoil or stain.  He will take care of handling bundles and parts in them so that they do not mix-up.  He must see that he accomplishes his target.  If there is any bottleneck, he will discuss with the supervisor & take countermeasures. Page | 8

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide  He will check the needle from time to time to ensure that it is not blunt or broken.  He will take care that there is no under sewing thread tension.  The sewing machine operator will ensure that stitch per inch (SPI) is correct.  He will clean his sewing machine from time to time.  He will take care of his machine.  He will ensure that the designated machine cleans the machine, oils it, & takes care of it.  He will continuously check if her work is compatible with the quality & quantity desired.  He will discuss with the supervisor & senior operators about sewing problems or sewing defects and sewing techniques.  He will ensure that his machine is equipped with an eye guard or needle guard or puller cover.  He will get trained on using firefighting equipment & how to face an accident.  He will use the mask all the time to offset micro dust.  He will use hand gloves and a scarf. Garment Production Process Apparel manufacturing process - common steps Garment production is an organised activity consisting of sequencial processes such as laying, marking, cutting, stitching, checking, finishing, pressing and packaging. Garment production is an organized activity consisting of sequential processes such as laying, marking, cutting, stitching, checking, finishing, pressing and packaging. This is a process of converting raw materials into finished products. It will be difficult to maintain the industry if production is not, up to the mark if the preproduction phase of preparation of material is not properly carried out. Ready to wear apparel or garment manufacturing involves many processing steps, beginning with the idea or design concept and ending with a finished product. Apparel manufacturing process involves Product Design, Fabric Selection and Inspection, Patternmaking, Grading, Marking, Spreading, Cutting, Bundling, Sewing, Pressing or Folding, Finishing and Detailing, Dyeing and Washing, QC etc. Manufacturing steps 1. Receiving Fabrics Page | 9

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Garment factories receive fabric from overseas textile manufacturers in large bolts with cardboard or plastic centre tubes or in piles or bags. The fabric typically arrives in steel commercial shipping containers and is unloaded with a forklift. Garment factories often have a warehouse or dedicated area to store fabric between arrival and manufacturing. 2. Fabric Relaxing ―Relaxing‖ refers to the process that allows the material to relax and contract prior to being manufactured. This step is necessary because the material is continually under tension throughout the various stages of the textile manufacturing process, including weaving, dyeing, and other finishing processes. The relaxing process allows fabrics to shrink so that further shrinkage during customer use is minimized. Garment manufacturers perform the relaxing process either manually or mechanically. Manual fabric relaxing typically entails loading the bolt of fabric on a spinner and manually feeding the material through a piece of equipment that relieves tension in the fabric as it is pulled through. Mechanical fabric relaxing performs this same process in an automated manner. 3. Spreading, Form Layout, and Cutting Page | 10

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide After the fabric has been relaxed, it is transferred to the spreading and cutting area of the garment manufacturing facility. The fabric is first to cut into uniform plies and then spread either manually or using a computer-controlled system in preparation for the cutting process. The fabric is spread to: 1. allow operators to identify fabric defects; 2. control the tension and slack of the fabric during cutting; and 3. ensure each ply is accurately aligned on top of the others. The number of plies in each spread is dependent on the fabric type, spreading method, cutting equipment, and size of the garment order. Next, garment forms—or patterns—are laid out on top of the spread, either manually or programmed into an automated cutting system. Lastly, the fabric is cut to the shape of the garment forms using either manually operated cutting equipment or a computerized cutting system. 4. Laying Laying of paper pattern helps one to plan the placement of the pattern pieces in a tentative manner. 1. Lay large pieces first and then fit in the smaller ones 2. It is very economical in laying the pattern and cutting. Even a small amount of material saved in a single layer will help to bring about a large saving of money as hundred‘s of layers of fabric will be laid and cut simultaneously. 3. When laying, the length of the garment should be parallel to the selvedge of the material. Be sure the pattern is placed in the correct grain. Fabrics drape and fall better on the lengthwise grain and also last longer. 4. Parts that have to be placed on the fold should be exactly on the edge of the fold. 5. All laying should be done on the wrong side of the material. 6. When laying the paper pattern, consider the design of the fabric. Care should be taken to see that the design runs in the same direction Page | 11

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide throughout the garment. All checks and strips should match the seams both lengthwise and across.60 5.Marking This can be a manual or a computerized technique 1. The marker planner uses full-size patterns and arranges them in an economical manner on marker paper. 2. This is a specially printed paper having symbols on it which enable the marker planner to visually control the positioning of components according to specified grain lines. 3. Markers produced on paper are fixed to fabric with pins, staples or on an adhesive paper which is heat sealed to the top layer of the fabric. 4. Marker planning provides details of the spreads. In the cutting room, the fabric is laid manually or a spreading machine is used to arrange fabric inlays 100 (layers) and markers for the production, any in orders planned. Here planning is done also for fusible, linings, trims, pocketing etc. 5. The supervisors of marker planner plan and allocates the cut orders to various operations to be carried out in the cutting room. 6. Cutting This is the major operation of the cutting room when they spread and cut into garments. Of all the operations in the cutting room, this is the most decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious defects. 1. A first planning consideration is whether the totals arrived at in the cutting room are the same as those required to maintain full production in the sewing room and subsequently the planned delivery schedule. Any cloth problems created in the cutting room can affect the output in the sewing room. Assuming all components of fabric, design, and trims are acceptable and correctly planned and cut, the next stage is to extend the cutting room programme to the sewing room. 2. All cutting operations are carried out by straight knife cutting machines. 7. Embroidery and Screen Printing Page | 12

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Embroidery and screen printing are two processes that occur only if directly specified by the customer; therefore, these processes are commonly subcontracted to off-site facilities. Embroidery is performed using automated equipment, often with many machines concurrently embroidering the same pattern on multiple garments. Each production line may include between 10 and 20 embroidery stations. Customers may request embroidery to put logos or other embellishments on garments. Screen printing is the process of applying paint-based graphics to fabric using presses and textile dryers. Specifically, screen printing involves sweeping a rubber blade across a porous screen, transferring ink through a stencil and onto the fabric. The screen printed pieces of fabric are then dried to set the ink. This process may have varying levels of automation or may largely be completed at manually operated stations. Like embroidery, screen printing is wholly determined by the customer and may be requested to put logos or other graphics on garments or to print brand and size information in place of affixing tags. 8. Sewing Stitching or sewing is done after the cut pieces are bundled according to size, colour and quantities determined by the sewing room. Garments are sewn in an assembly line, with the garment becoming complete as it progresses down the sewing line. Sewing machine operators receive a bundle of cut fabric and repeatedly sew the same portion of the garment, passing that completed portion to the next operator. For example, the first operator may sew the collar to the body of the garment and the next operator may sew a sleeve to the body. Quality assurance is performed at the end of the sewing line to ensure that the garment has been properly assembled and that no manufacturing defects exist. When needed, the garment will be reworked or mended at designated sewing stations. This labor-intensive process progressively transforms pieces of fabric into designer garments. Page | 13

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 1. The central process in the manufacture of clothing is the joining together of components. 2. Stitching is done as per the specification is given by the buyer. 3. High power single needle or computerized sewing machines are used to complete the sewing operation. Fusing machines for fusing collar components, button, and buttonhole, sewing machines for sewing button and buttonholes are specifically employed. 9. Checking It is realistic to assume that however well checking or quality control procedures operate within a factory there will always be a certain percentage of garments rejected for some reason or other. The best way to carry out quality checks is by 1. Establishing a standard as a criterion for measuring quality achievement. 2. Production results can be measured and compared to the planned quality standard. 3. Corrective measures to be carried out if there are any deviations in the plans. Ideally, any system should detect possible deviations before they occur through forecasting. Work produced with minus defects will produce quality products, enhance economy and productivity. 10. Spot Cleaning and Laundry In addition to identifying manufacturing defects, employees tasked with performing quality assurance are also looking for cosmetic flaws, stains, or other spots on the garment that may have occurred during the cutting and sewing processes. Spots are often marked with a sticker and taken to a spot-cleaning area where the garment is cleaned using steam, hot water, or chemical stain removers. Some customers request that a garment be fully laundered after it is sewn and assembled; therefore, garment factories often have on-site laundry or have subcontract agreements with off-site laundry operations. Commercial laundry facilities are equipped with at least three types of machines: Page | 14

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide washers, spinners, and dryers. Some facilities also have the capability to perform special treatments, such as stone- or acid-washing. 11. Fusing and Pressing Fusing and pressing are two processes which have the greatest influence on the finished look of a garment. Fusing creates the foundation and pressing put the final seal of quality on the garment. After a garment is fully sewn and assembled, it is transferred to the ironing section of the facility for final pressing. Each ironing station consists of an iron and an ironing platform. The irons are similar looking to residential models but have steam supplied by an on-site boiler. Workers control the steam with foot pedals and the steam is delivered via overhead hoses directly to the iron. In most facilities, the ironing platforms are equipped with a ventilation system that draws steam through the ironing table and exhausts it outside the factory. The basic components of pressing are: 1. Steam and heat are necessary to relax the fabric and make it pliable enough to be moulded by manipulation. 2. Pressure: when the cloth has been relaxed by steam, the pressure is applied which sets the fibres into their new positions. 3. Drying: After the application of steam and pressure, the component or garment must be dried and cooled so that cloth can revert to its normal condition. This is done by a vacuum action which removes surplus water from the fabric and at the same time cools it. For some pressure operations hot air or infrared heating is used instead of vacuum for drying; Machinery used for pressing and finishing are 1. Hand irons with a vacuum press table 2. Scissors press 3. Carousel machines 4. Steam dolly Page | 15

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 12. Packaging and Shipping In the last steps of making a product retail-ready, garments are folded, tagged, sized, and packaged according to customer specifications. Also, garments may be placed in protective plastic bags, either manually or using an automated system, to ensure that the material stays clean and pressed during shipping. Lastly, garments are placed in cardboard boxes and shipped to client distribution centers to eventually be sold in retail stores. Most garments are packed in plastic bags, either at the end of production or when they enter the finished goods store. Products like shirts and underwears are usually bagged and boxed directly after final inspection and enter the stores in prepacked form. For these and similar types of products, many automatic machines are used. Page | 16

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide CHAPTER-3 Carry out Stitching activities using machine or by hand Introduction This unit provides Performance Criteria, Knowledge & Understanding and Skills & Abilities required to stitch components using machines or by hand. Make sure the work area is free from hazards Workplace Health and Safety an important factor in any sewing industry either in hand sewing, using a sewing machine both an electrical or a manual sewing machine. Employees/individuals encounter several risk factors, such as awkward arm, neck, trunk, leg postures and back pains. Posture in sewing is also an important factor. Safety measures have to be taken seriously especially when sharp pointed objects are used such as, scissors, tacking pins, needles, and other equipment. Safety is very important in Sewing. To make sure that everyone can learn and have fun in a safe environment, keep the following rules in mind: 1. ALWAYS: Place your coats, books and bags in separate places, away from your sewing area. 2. ALWAYS: Leave your shoes on during sewing class. You do not want to accidentally step on a pin or needle. 3. ALWAYS: Keep your fingers away from the sewing machine needle when winding the bobbin and operating the machine. 4. ALWAYS: Look under your fabric before cutting with scissors and carry scissors with the sharp edge pointing towards the floor. When the scissors are not being used, place them on the cutting table, sewing table, or in your sewing box. 5. ALWAYS: Thread the needle with caution and lower the pressure foot before starting to sewing on your fabric. 6. ALWAYS: Remove the pins from your fabric as you sew and place them in the pin cushion after you use them. NEVER put straight pins or needles in your mouth. 7. ALWAYS: Place the iron in the upright position after use. When using the iron hold it by the handle only. 8. ALWAYS: Let your teacher/trainer help you use the seam ripper (unpicker). 9. ALWAYS: Place your seam gauge, ruler, scissors and pins in the sewing box after using them. 10. ALWAYS: Listen to the teacher‘s/trainer‘s instructions. Page | 17

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Hazards that may be encountered when conducting sewing activities include: • Cut and injuries from sharp edges, knife blades, scissors and pins. • Holding the wrist in awkward position while cutting with scissors cause injury to the wrist. • Participants/trainees hold their neck, trunk and arms in an awkward position as they strain to see detail in an object. • Finger injuries while sewing. While cutting fabric the participants/trainees often bend over table, which may cause low back injury from poor posture. • Eye strain from poor lighting. • Back injury from improper lifting procedures. Follow the instructions on the work ticket/ job card in line with the responsibilities of respective job role and Ask questions to obtain more information on tasks when the instructions you have are unclear Being prepared with the appropriate assets and presenting them in industry standard formats will facilitate the production process. With the right planning, factories will understand your needs better and will take you more seriously. Flat sketch A 2 dimensional sketch usually done in black and white with accurate design details such as stitching, trims, etc. Flat sketches are sometimes filled with color or patterns to show colorways in your job card or for presentations. Tech Sketch A flat sketch with text callouts to specify various design details. Pro Tip: A tech sketch should not be an artistic representation of the design but rather a flat 2d drawing to show accurate details. Color standard The exact color that you‘ve picked for your design that‘s used as a benchmark (standard) for all production. Job card Page | 18

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The instruction manual to create your product (like a set of blueprints). At minimum, it includes:  Tech sketches  A BOM  A graded spec  Colorway specs  Artwork specs (if relevant)  A spot for proto / fit / sales sample comments Example: A job card can be used by your factory to create a perfect sample (without them asking any questions). This probably won‘t happen and questions are inevitable, but keep the goal in mind: provide thorough instructions that are easy to follow. Pro Tip: Your job card is also used to track approvals, comments and changes made to the product throughout the development cycle. It acts as a master document that both the factory and the design / development team will reference. Unit of measure The type (ie unit) of measurement used for various items or parts of your product. Example:  Trim UOMs (ie buttons) is each or piece.  Fabric UOM is yard or meter.  Product UOMs (ie pocket height) is inches or centimeters. Point of measure Specific points on your product that are defined and used for measurement. Most often they‘re measured on a flat product (not on the body). Example: A POM code for half chest width may be ―across chest 1‖ down from underarm‖. CF Front The center of your garment running vertically along the front. Centre Back The center of your garment running vertically along the back. Page | 19

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Armhole The opening in a garment where the arm fits through. High point shoulders The highest point of the shoulder on your garment, not including any part of the collar. Side Seam The seam that runs along the side of your garment. Some garments like leggings or circular knit sweaters may not have an SS. Crotch point Where the inseam and the front / back rise meet. Total measure The total measurement from one point to another. Seam allowance The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitch line. The amount can vary from 1/4 inch to several inches. Cut/ Make/ Trim A manufacturer who can cut your fabric, make your product and apply trims (buttons, labels, hang tags, etc). You provide all the raw materials, they do the physical assembly. Pro Tip: You can save costs and gain control using a CMT vs a FPP (defined below)...but it can also be a lot more work for you since you have to source and coordinate delivery of all physical materials to your CMT. Full package production Page | 20

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide A manufacturer who offers every service you may need from design to pattern drafting and sample making to production. Pro Tip: The FPP is a one stop shop...but they may not require you do everything with them. If you have designs and job cards, they can manage sourcing and production. You may be able to pick and choose just the services you need. Proto sample: A sample to make sure various (or all parts) of the product are executed correctly. Protos are often made with closest available trims and fabrics and are used to check fit, construction and detailing. Pre production sample: The last sample sent for approval before production begins. It should be 100% correct for fit, design, color, trims, etc. It‘s your last chance to make changes or catch mistakes...and even then they may unfixable. Size Run A set of samples in the full range of sizes offered. Size runs should be measured flat and tried on fit models to make sure they fit well in all sizes. Pro Tip: Depending on design complexity, how many similar styles you have, and how long you‘ve worked with the factory, a full size run (every size, ie XS, S, M, L, XL) may be required. Other times, a jump size run (every other size ie XS, M, XL) is enough. Fit model A person who maintains their physical size and tries on product to make sure it fits well. They are typically not ―standard‖ runway model size, but rather the size of your customer. Pro Tip: Some fit models will not only try on the product, but will wear or use them in real life settings and provide feedback. This is common in activewear, performance products or other goods that must withstand certain uses. Page | 21

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Fit size The middle size in your size range. It is the default size that will be used for protos and other samples. Agree and review your agreed upon work targets with your supervisor and check for special instructions, if any You‘re independent and a great employee, so you come back a few weeks later – the project complete. You‘re confident because you worked hard and developed a good product. But much to your dismay, your boss isn‘t happy. She has so many problems with it, you might as well start over. You thought you understood the assignment, but apparently your approach wasn‘t what your manager was looking for at all. Clarify the Message This happens to all of us occasionally, but if it happens to you more frequently, you need to address the situation. Your boss may have an ongoing issue communicating expectations and/or details about her thinking, you may have trouble following instructions, or there is room to improve on both sides. And neither of you is going to be particularly productive if you don‘t nip this one in the bud. The next time your boss tries to delegate an assignment, don‘t let her rush you out of the office (or off the phone). Speaking of which, do not accept a complex assignment over e-mail, IM, or social network because this is a misunderstanding waiting to happen. Insist on an actual conversation. In this conversation, get step-by-step directions for how you should approach the project, including the resources you should tap, the content you should include, and the order in which you should accomplish individual tasks. If something doesn‘t seem clear right away, ask about it now. Don‘t leave the meeting until you have both agreed on exactly what it is you will be doing. Check Yourself Frequently Divide the assignment into phases and set up a follow up with your manager to discuss Phase I. Especially if there is work involved that requires a lot of heavy lifting on your part, you want to be sure you‘re headed in the right direction before doing more. This check-in will give your boss the opportunity to scrap off-target work early enough in the process so that you don‘t have a stroke. Ensure Final Acceptance If you manager does not sign off on Phase I or has substantial problems with it, keep re-submitting until these are resolved. Do not move forward until you are positive that you are able to provide a final product with which she‘s satisfied. You‘re essentially forcing her to micromanage you a bit – which Page | 22

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide admittedly is a bit annoying for you and for her – but hopefully it will prompt her to express her thinking more clearly in the future. Ask in the Moment It could be the case that your manager gives terrific direction, but you are not great at following it. You can improve by listening actively (versus just nodding and smiling) when your boss is explaining an assignment. Take detailed notes on all of the specifics, and verbally repeat back instructions to your boss that you know right then and there if you have it right. If in doubt, don‘t assume you‘ll figure it out. Better to ask now then have to start over later. Page | 23

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide CHAPTER-4 Stitching operations Introduction This unit provides Performance Criteria, Knowledge & Understanding and Skills & Abilities required to monitor the quality of the production while undertaking stitching related activities to ensure products meet specifications. Identify and use materials required based on the job card/ work ticket A job card is an informative sheet (or file) which encompasses all of the garment specifications. The job card for the garments is created before embarking on the garment manufacturing process. The file contains all the details of any specific style and aspect of the garment. This document is usually prepared by the designer and finalized in consultation with the merchandisers, and then forwarded to bulk sampling department or to the production department for the reference and guide for bulk manufacturing. The complexity involved in bulk manufacturing of the apparel also helps determine the contents of the job card. The more complex the clothing item, the more detailed the job card should become. Page | 24

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Regardless if the garment being manufactured is as simple as a basic pair of men's underwear, or as complex as a women's suit involving two or more garments (top & bottom), each garment needs a job card. However, the size of the job card will differ based on the complexity of the garment. Note: tops and bottoms can be combined into one job card. When deailing with complex fashion, with each garment involving multiple fabrics and trims, topped with additional production process such as embroidery, printing, patch work etc. The production flow, care and control needed while production will differ, and so will the form and content of the job card for such styles. When developing a job card, do not hesitate to list as much detail as you believe to be necessary. The more information in the job card the better. There is an art to finding and ordering fabric. Whether it‘s conscious or not, there is some sort of triage system in place when mills and factories speak with designers and developers. Don‘t get me wrong, it isn‘t malicious, there are just so many clients and companies reaching out to them, if they responded to everything in the order it appeared they would never get any work done. So here are 5 lessons on what to do and what to expect when venturing into the sometimes intimidating world of fabric sourcing. Lesson One: Know the Difference between Wholesale and Retail ―The customer is always right‖ is something we have had drilled into us at every job we‘ve ever had. And this is true for any industry. However, the difference between retail and wholesale is simple. If you aren‘t a customer, than you will never be right. In retail, you can get whatever you‘d like with no questions asked. But in wholesale, the game changes. Reps for factories find it their responsibility to be your advisor and only sell you what you need. As they see it, you will keep buying if they guide you wisely. Lesson Two: Do Your Research Most fabric mills have websites. If the mill that you are interested in contacting does have one, make sure to check it out… thoroughly. Having a clear vision of what you would like either sample yardage of, or swatches, will make your life (and your rep‘s life) that much easier. If you are able to order swatches online, do so! It is important to feel the fabric before ordering sample yardage, otherwise, you‘ve got 5-10 yards of fabric that could be perfect or could be terrible. It is only after you‘ve done the research that you contact your rep. Page | 25

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Lesson Three: Know What and What Not Ask In school we learn that there are no stupid questions. Well, once we become adults we learn that those teachers told us lies. While it is true that there isn‘t any question you shouldn‘t ask, there are questions that you don‘t ask to certain people. Knowing when and how to ask for specific information is invaluably important. Do:  Make a good first impression. Remember, this isn‘t about just buying fabric. You are also building relationships with future partners. Relationships that could potentially last a very long time.  Request fabric swatches. Mills believe in their fabrics. If you are looking for a 4 oz. jersey, don‘t be afraid to ask if they have a fabric similar to that, and if they could send you a swatch. Tread Lightly:  The price should never be your first question, with anyone. There are a lot of factors that go into price. It is tough, as any startup knows, to know a good value from a cheap product. It is only after you‘ve physically touched the fabric and it is one that you are seriously considering, that you request pricing and minimums. If you go in overly price-conscious, you will never get the swatches you need.  This goes back to pricing. If you are serious about a fabric, then most reps will volunteer that information. If they don‘t, than make sure that you ask while stating your interest in their fabric, and would like to know minimums prior to ordering. NEVER:  Ask if they have a fabric that another Designer uses. This is mainly an industry courtesy. As any company knows, if you sell client information, you lose clients. It‘s just bad for business. Would you want them selling or providing your fabrics or designs? It‘s simple, don‘t put anyone in that position.  Buy wholesale for personal use. Respect trade relations. Do not exploit your connections with factories to buy fabric, trims, etc. Reps are very well connected, and if you are caught… well, this industry may seem large, but you will find out just how small it really is. Instead, if you want products for personal use, get them from jobbers or another designer. Page | 26

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Lesson Four: Don’t be a Prima Donna We‘ve all heard the phrase, “Kill „em with Kindness”. Now do it. Sourcing is all about attitude. Yes, some reps are jerks. Yes, some come across as cold and inhospitable. But, these are future partners. As partners it is important to note that no one is spying on you. They will not take your designs and sell them. Be kind and cooperative, and they will follow suit. They warm up once you move past the threshold of ‗potential client‘ to ‗customer‘. And if they don‘t, then move on. Lesson 5: Flexibility is Key It is important to note that a specific rep/factory may not be a good fit. That means you may be referred to either a rep closer to your area/territory, or a factory that better suits your needs. By displaying a positive and flexible attitude, reps will be happy to make these suggestions accordingly. Again, if they advise you wisely you will continue to buy from them. Take the necessary action when materials do not conform to company quality standards In garment manufacturing, it will not be a surprising thing if we found few rejected garments after shipment. Reason, most of the manufacturers believe that garments are soft goods and non-repairable defect may occur due to low quality raw materials or faulty process or employee casual behavior. However factory must have check points to control over this issue. There is no ready-made solution that can reduce rejection percentage overnight. Each order is unique. But I can suggest you how to handle this issue and bring down rejection rate. Do i need to explain how to calculate rejection percentage of an order? It is equal to Total rejected garments *100/ Total cut quantity. You got lot of rejected garment after shipment. You termed as rejected because those garments can‘t be repaired by any means. You want to reduce the percentage of rejections in your future shipment. To reach your goal, follow my recipe: You need to read and act as you read to get result. 1. Collect all rejected pieces. All means all pieces those were not shipped which is equal to cut quantity minus shipped quantity. 2. Call your garment checkers who understand what are defects and can find why those garments are rejected. 3. Ask them to diagnosis all rejected garments or defective garments. Defect analysis can be done to ways – one: you a have quality system in place where checkers check garments and make report during checking, two: after getting Page | 27

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide rejected pieces rejected by final checker (who don‘t made report) do fault finding in those rejected garments. 4. From your diagnosis, pick highest occurring defects (top 5 defects) and do exercise on finding root causes of those defect generations. Bring your quality personnel, production and technical personnel in this exercise. 5. Once you found the list of root causes for each defects, your next task is to find the way how to stop making those defects again by eliminating root causes. I think this task will not be very difficult to you as you are in this business and understand how error occurred. In case, you don‘t find the way to cure root causes you need to seek for help from your colleagues or experts. 6. You found some solutions. Great! Make standard procedures to stop generating same defects during processing in future. Implement it. See the result is your next shipment. 7. This is the way to improve cut to ship ratio and reduce rejection percentage rate. I believe - corrective action is the only remedy for stopping further defect generation Report and replace identified faulty materials and component parts which do not meet specification Estimating and calculating requirements When you have decided what supplies and equipment you need, you then need to calculate or estimate what quantities of each of these items is required. It is important to order the right quantities. Ordering too little (understocking) will result in shortages and your health facility will be unable to provide effective treatment and care, undermining staff and patient confidence in the service. Ordering too much (overstocking) will result in a build up of stock and wastage, for example of items that are not used before their expiry date or that become spoiled if unused for too long, as well as tying up valuable funds unnecessarily. The amount you order will depend on factors that you can anticipate, such as how much stock is normally used, how many patients will need to be treated, seasonal demands, how often you place an order, and the storage capacity of your health facility. You may also need to order a limited quantity of extra stocks of some items so that your facility can deal with unexpected events, such as epidemics and natural disasters Quantification is the process used to calculate or estimate the quantities of medical supplies, drugs and equipment required. It is usually done once a year or during the planning for a new health programme or project. Proper quantification ensures that there is enough stock to meet demand, and avoids both understocking and overstocking. It is also a useful tool for preparing budget estimates, adjusting quantities to match a fixed budget, and monitoring use of supplies and equipment by health facility staff. The most commonly used quantification methods are: Page | 28

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide • Consumption method – which uses data about actual use or past consumption to calculate what quantities will be required in future. Morbidity data method – which uses data about prevalence and incidence of disease and health problems, and the standard treatments for these, to estimate future needs. The consumption method depends on reliable consumption data and effective stock control, especially accurate record keeping. To use this method you need a monitoring system that both provides information about actual rates of consumption of supplies and equipment and highlights higher than expected consumption of particular items and potential misuse of supplies. Quantification methods are useful for estimating annual requirements. However, actual annual consumption can be different from estimated consumption. Also, many health facilities place orders more than once a year, either on a regular basis or when the need arises. Guidelines for Determining Critical, Major & Minor Defects. Critical Defects. A critical defect could put the customer at risk of injury, either through faulty components or foreign body contamination. A critical defect places House of Fraser at risk legally i.e. misleading, misinformation or any other detail which contravenes legal requirements. If one (1) occurrence of critical defect is observed during the inspection, the entire lot will be rejected. A 100% inspection will be carried-out by the garments factory QA Staff to remove the defective product/s Major Defects. A major defect is likely to disappoint the customer and may discourage purchase or can cause the customer to return the product. A major defect will cause operational difficulties i.e. incorrect styles, incorrect quantity etc. A major defect will distinct the product significantly from the sealed sample. Page | 29

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Minor Defects. A minor defect is when small imperfections which will not be noticed by the majority of customers. A minor defect is a deviation from the required standard, but one that is unlikely to affect the usability of the product. A minor defect will usually be seen by the inspector, but may be overlooked by the customer. Identify modifiable defects and rework on them In the apparel manufacturing industry, main raw material is fabric; others are different types of trimmings and accessories. Operational wastages in the apparel manufacturing process are- top surface rework, printed label rework, sewing fault rework, pinhole rework, fabric rework, improper fly shape, and other reworks. The defects can be categorized as follows. Sewing Defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from wrong functioning of sewing machines. Seaming defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the interaction of the operator and machine in the handling of garment. Placement Defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising in marking and cutting as well as sewing operations in the sewing room or a combination of all these. Fabric defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the fabric processing like knitting and dyeing. Embroidery defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the embroidery processing of the garments. Page | 30

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Major Garment Defects: Types, Causes & Solutions Measurement out of tolerance Suggested Solutions: Cause Solution Notches improper at pleats Cutting Department was informed about the cause and the reason identified was misalignment of piles during cutting. This being a major defect causing activity was asked to be checked 100% in the audit before sending the bundles to sewing. A template was provided against which the pieces were checked and in case of any devotion, white pencil was used to mark pleat positions. Improper sweep shape after panel Bottom trimming was done to make attachment the sweep uniform. Puckering at waistband Causes Solution Improper pre-setting of waistband Pressing was done by stem iron with a after thumb pressing spray of starch over it. This made the handling of the waistband easier while stitching and thus reduced puckering at the waistband The suggested solution to overcome roping and puckering is to cut the armhole binding in bias instead of in straight grain direction. This procedure completely avoids roping and puckering at armhole thus achieving the desired aesthetic look of the garment. The Quality Analysis and Control systems and its monitoring should be in place so that this defect can be detected at the initial stage of the production, avoiding reworks or rejections at later stages. Page | 31

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Waistband extension uneven Causes Solution Improper folder setting on machine The folder guide should be appropriately adjusted and improper materials handling avoided Margin not followed while attracting The operator must be instructed to waistband and waistband edge not be careful while feeding and finished properly following the margins strictly. Waistband extension uneven Causes Solution Improper folder setting on machine The folder guide should be appropriately adjusted and improper materials handling avoided Margin not followed while attracting The operator must be instructed to waistband and waistband edge not be careful while feeding and following finished properly the margins strictly. Improper fly shape Causes Solution Top stitch is being inhibited by zipper lock underneath Provide a template to the operator and shift the stitch a little below, altering the fly shape within tolerance level. Causes Fusing shining marks Poor quality fusing used Solution Fusing should be changes and skilled operator should be given the job Suggestions to Reduce Defects in Finishing Section Page | 32

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Oil spots: 1. Application of a scrap paper under the presser feet of sewing machines after the day's work so that the machines which are leaking oil can be tracked. 2. Proper oiling level to be maintained in order to prevent leakage of extra oil. 3. Operator to take responsibility of cleaning the machine after lubrication. 4. Immediate reporting of oil leakage. Ink/chalk marks: 1. Usage of good quality markers, the marks of which are easily washable. 2. Avoid using pencils for marking. 3. Usage of chalks on white and light colored fabrics. Soil and dust: 1. Usage of plastic bags for storing and transportation of pieces. 2. Cleaning of checking tables and machines before the start of day's work. 3. Avoid keeping garments on the floor, using trolleys for storage. 4. Creating a polyethylene sheet partition between sewing and finishing departments so that fabric dust doesn't come over to the finishing unit and settle down on the washed fabric. Suggestions for reducing no. of uncut & loose threads: 1. Thread cutting operation to be carried out after washing in order to counteract unraveling of threads after washing. 2. Use of thread sucking machine to prevent any loose threads to reach the checkpoint. Carry out work safely and at a rate which maintains work flow There are many different types of machinery used in the garment industry. Some are used to knit and weave; sew or cut patterns and cloth; some press or steam; and others transport garment pieces on the factory floor. But before any work begins on a piece of machinery, the operator should be trained in its proper operation and all safety precautions to follow. Workers should be trained to know that any machinery with exposed moving parts should be properly guarded. And Page | 33

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide they need to understand how important it is that guards be kept in place to prevent accidental activation, pinch points, and amputation. As cutting tools and knitting or sewing needles can pose cut and puncture hazards, workers should be instructed to follow basic safety precautions while working with sharp and cutting instruments. Precautions include: using sharp tools that are in good repair; carrying and storing sharp tools properly; and always cutting away from the eyes and body. Workers need to stay alert when working with sharp objects and make sure needles are properly guarded. Chemicals also play a part in garment manufacturing. Dyes, enzymes, solvents, and other chemicals are used to create different fabric finishes and durability. So, proper ventilation, respiratory protection, and other personal protective equipment are important to protect workers during chemical processing. The same safety steps should be taken for workers who handle the finished material and may be exposed to excess chemicals and off-gassing. Page | 34

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Because much of garment work involves close viewing of the garment, eye protection is critical. Garment workers can avoid eye injuries by using proper shields on high-speed sewing machinery or safety glasses where appropriate. Also, adequate task lighting at individual workstations can prevent eyestrain. Some garment manufacturing equipment can be very loud, so proper hearing protection may be necessary. Because a garment factory uses many heated processes, it is important for workers to avoid heat stress by labeling and guarding hot surfaces and drinking plenty of water during their shift. Proper ventilation can help to reduce ambient temperatures and ensure worker comfort. Many tasks in garment manufacturing require repetitive motions. To prevent ergonomic injuries workers should be encouraged to rotate tasks or take frequent, short breaks to stretch and relax muscles. Workstations should allow enough space for the task, have appropriate working height, and provide proper seating. Manufacturing tools and machinery should incorporate ergonomic design principles and should not require an excessive amount of force to operate. With proper training and instruction, machine guarding, personal protective equipment, and ergonomically designed work systems, garment workers can manufacture products in safe and healthy workplaces. Report to the responsible person when the work flow of other production areas disrupts work Improving organization of work processes is the best way to increase productivity, especially since it can be achieved with little or no capital investment. Page | 35

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide If you have followed the advice in the previous chapter, you will have established many of the preconditions for efficient organization. When you have reached this stage you can consider more advanced improvements. Not all the ideas suggested in this chapter can be implemented immediately. Changing the design of machines and products, or the layout of the shop-floor, can be expensive and time-consuming. There are, however, a number of ideas which can be set up immediately with little or no cost, such as changing work assignments. You can start with these ideas and work towards the others over a longer period. Some of the ideas you will find in this chapter may seem \"soft\" on workers. You may be used to the idea that only strict supervision and strong pressure give good results. Remember that supervision is expensive and that workers, however much they need their jobs, are not fools. They would rather work well for a boss they respect and admire and who treats them fairly. Eliminate extra tasks and operations Each work operation is a cost - it takes space, machine- and operator-time and energy. Your first step should therefore be to examine critically every production task and operation. In doing this, ask yourself whether the task or operation is really needed. Can it be eliminated altogether? Can it be changed or simplified? Can it be performed in combination with other tasks and operations? You can eliminate or rearrange tasks by:  introducing changes into the design of the product  switching to new production methods  performing a number of tasks in one operation by using special multi-task machines. Page | 36

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Additional tasks and operations are those that do not add value to the product or service. These incur costs for the enterprise but are not paid by the customers. To achieve an efficient and effective production operation, consider the following guidelines:  Identify tasks and operations that do not add value to the product or service. These are, for example, delays caused by machine breakdowns, incomplete raw materials, looking for missing jigs and parts, \"dead\" production time due to blocked passageways, unnecessary transportation of materials from one operation to another, and excess reworks caused by lack of understanding of the task  assess the effect of removing the non-value-adding task or operation from the production process  determine the best way to improve the task; some tasks can be eliminated, combined with other tasks, simplified or changed  Apply the improvement. The workers can help you to identify the main extra tasks and operations. Others may require a detailed analysis. You may also involve workers in planning how to eliminate additional tasks and in implementing new lean production processes. Ensure work-in-progress is under control The introduction of various style changes into the production process requires tight management controls of both the raw material inventory and work-in-progress. Very often the preparation and identification of garment parts to be processed pose problems. Whether work is organized in single units or bundles of 20 to 100 units, the work flow has to be controlled well. Page | 37

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The main options for transporting single units or bundles are:  by the supervisor or a worker, manually  in boxes, using manual or motorized carts or conveyors  by overhead conveyors, manual or motorized. In all cases, it is better to have sufficient units at each workstation but avoiding having excess stocks lying idle on the shop floor. It is normal practice in bundle systems to organize the work flow to provide each worker with a minimum of two bundles of work-in-progress, one being sewn and one waiting. Test, sort, track feed and examine work in progress We would define production scheduling as the scheduling of individual customer needs and the control of their flow through the production process, which is defined by resource requirements and capacity constraints. Bringing reality to theory A solid production schedule should help in determining whether delivery dates can be met and can identify predictable downtime for maintenance schedules. A proper production schedule also gives production and other personnel an explicit statement of what is expected and in order that supervisors and managers can measure productivity and performance. Other advantages include minimizing WIP (work in process) inventories, set-up times and overall lead times as well as maximizing machine and production personnel. Page | 38

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide A good production schedule can identify resource conflicts, control the release of jobs to the production floor, and ensure that all required raw materials—such as blank product and correct ink colors—are purchased and received on time. Additionally, better coordination will increase overall productivity and minimize operating cost. Traditional scheduling research has done little to improve production-planning practices over the years. What‘s more, traditional scheduling models based on operation-research techniques that assume ideal situations are being found insufficient. In reality, actual production systems are filled with uncertainties. In an attempt to bridge the gap between production theory and reality many apparel- decorating companies have adopted a fuzzy scheduling model. Imprecise scheduling parameters in process times and due dates as well as constraints on resources and the custom nature of our business have forced us in this direction. Since internal and external business-environment reality may change dramatically from day to day or even hour to hour, there is a need to respond to the unexpected and modify existing production schedules. Flexibility is paramount, and keeping it simple makes scheduling manageable. Make no mistake that not only is fast and responsive production scheduling the key to supply-chain management, but also that logic enables business-to-business transactions by directly linking customer‘s and supplier‘s schedules together. Spreadsheets are the key Despite the fact that during the last couple of decades many companies in our industry and others have made large investments in the developments as well as the implementation of computerized scheduling software systems, not very many such systems appear to be in regular use. Systems, after being implemented, often remain in use for only a limited time, eventually becoming, for one reason or another, ignored altogether. The real world is somehow different than idealized computer models, and therein lie those fuzzy constraints, shortages of accurate information and those oh-those-sudden changes of direction. Page | 39

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide There is, of course, the human factor as well. Over- and under-estimating the employees‘ abilities, sick days and ―just bad‖ days are difficult if not impossible to schedule around. Using spreadsheets to model and simulate is the first step towards the design of an advanced planning and scheduling system. Because spread sheets have become so powerful and easy to use, the overall projection of capacities and limitations can be pre-loaded into the operating plan. For years spread sheets have been used to design prototype scheduling systems. Building a scheduling system requires a structured and disciplined approach. Reports, graphs and charts can easily be created to greatly assist in reality projections. The best part is that these spreadsheets can be completely customized and changed as many times as necessary. Anybody’s worst nightmare The following are among the key decisions made easier with a production- scheduling system:  releasing jobs for production;  prioritizing jobs that require resources (ink, special stencils and so on);  assigning resources (people, equipment);  reassigning resources from one job to another (similar jobs);  determining when jobs should be started (to meet deadlines); and  interrupting jobs that should be stopped (rush orders). Production scheduling deals with the allocation of resources and the sequencing of tasks to produce the particular goods and services. In this case, embellished apparel. Although allocation and sequencing decisions are closely related, it is very difficult to model mathematically the interaction between them. Page | 40

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The production-scheduling system is a control system that is part of a larger, more- complex manufacturing planning and control system. The production-scheduling system is more than a schedule-generation process, be it manual or automated. This system should not be a piece of software, but it should interact with all departments and provide information that all managers need for other planning and supervisory functions. Note that only after the schedule is generated do the manufacturing operations and processes begin. Weak production control and scheduling invites disaster: Under its direction, the production floor does not know what to decorate, and machine efficiency falls through the floor. Customers don‘t get orders filled on time and that spells big trouble. Production scheduling is at least as important as any other part of the production loop, and it can create anybody‘s worst nightmare of not handled correctly. A machinery, tools‘s production-scheduling system continues to develop over the years, evolving through the mistakes and miscalculations recognized and corrected. Remember, common sense is one of the most important aspects of effectively simple production scheduling. Sending up red flags Sales, administration, prepress, production, shipping and receiving, along with the divisions of each department, must all be considered. Within sales you have customer service. Administration includes order entry, accounting and invoicing, Prepress is art, screen and ink. Don‘t forget purchasing. Sound familiar? These are the key components of the production loop and will need to be considered throughout the scheduling process. After the sale is made, the order will need to be entered into the system. There are any number of order-entry systems on the market from very simple and inexpensive to significantly more complex. Page | 41

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide My operations have stayed fairly simple based on a number of internal considerations. The department which performs the order-entry phase must be familiar with general pricing, and production limitations. It won‘t matter how many presses you have if you get a job requiring 19 heads and you max out at 18. If a sales order does not fit within predetermined criteria, it should be sent back to the sales person and removed from the schedule until appropriate adjustments have been made. Terms and conditions as well as past-due balances should be examined before processing. These should be built-in protections that send up red flags . . . literally. After the initial stages of order entry are complete, one should consider the information which needs to find its way to each department. Depending on the software of choice, information should be available for output in the form of various reports which will assist in providing data for many departments. The actual order confirmation and specifications will aid in production. Pull-sheets or purchase requirements will get product procurement started. The most useful information any order-entry system can provide comes in the form of tracking production. An open-orders report provides an up-to-date list of what is still to be invoiced, or what is still in production. This is particularly useful in making sure everything finds its way through invoicing. The open-order report also serves as an alarm of past-due orders and is useful in revenue projections. Although over the years specifics have changed, I have always been a big believer in a highly visible, completely accessible, ever flexible scheduling board. K.I.S.S., right? We have an enormous white board that takes up an entire wall in the production office (see simulation, page 58). This office resembles a fish bowl with windows all around for full visualization by the entire staff. Sales, admin, art, purchasing, shipping-and-receiving and all production departments have access to this board. Page | 42

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide The layout of the production-scheduling board traditionally would be in a calendar- month format. With today‘s decreasing run sizes and increased set-ups, along with minimal lead times, we were forced into two-week format, in vertical progression. As one week ends another is added behind in order to accommodate two weeks at a time. Each press has its own section running horizontally along the two-week period. In our case, we schedule four automatics, four manuals and four embroidery machines. Each delineated section is one day‘s worth of production for that specific machine. Each section on the board will be the location of that machine‘s daily jobs. Each job will be earmarked with a job card. The job card has all the details of the work to be done and is created at the order-entry stage. Pertinent information for the job is included on the card: customer, design, number of colors, substrate and, most important, due date. The production manager places the cards on the board according to the particulars. The job cards are generally placed on the appropriate press with a cushion for due date. The bottom of each card has a color-coded system for determining the arrival of product, art, screens, ink and customer press proofs. The codes are marked off in real time by each of the supporting departments. When all are completed . . . the job can and will run. The production schedule is a work in progress and changes continually. A daily schedule and requisitions for art, receiving, screen and ink is created by each department head, determined by the main scheduling needs. Become an expert juggler Staff is critical to any system of production scheduling. Daily or weekly production meetings with representatives from each department keep everyone on the same page. Page | 43

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Checks and balances of a highly visible system such as this one become natural, as everyone is checking everyone. Pretty tough to burn screens without art, or print shirts if they‘re not ordered. Production scheduling helps us all understand limitations and capacities making true projections a reality. The objective is that production scheduling is a part of a complex flow of information and decision making. It is not an isolated optimization problem to be solved. Since production is not a distinct, singular function, there are plenty of variables affecting it. It is expected that a scheduling system should incorporate all relevant constraints in the printing process and should perform suitable activities for a changeable environment, so much so that it can solve unforeseen and unpredictable events. Carry out quality checks at specified intervals according to instructions During the production process, manufacturers must control quality and achieve the standard expected by Buyer. Please use the following check list as a general inspection guide for inspecting goods: Styling details and method of make up is exactly the same as the sealing sample, unless otherwise specified on the approved report. • Labelling and swing tickets are as specified. • Measurements are as specified on production size chart. • Fabric is of the correct quality and weight, and it is without flaws or stains. • Colour of all trims, threads, zips etc. is correct. • Prints and embroideries are positioned correctly. Page | 44

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide • Seams are secure, especially at joins/junctions and ends of cuffs and hem welts. • Stitching is free from slip/skip stitches and that seam grinning is not apparent. • All seams are to be correctly tensioned balanced, lie flat and seam width is even throughout. They must not be puckered, grin or crack. All raw edges are overlocked. Stitch density is as sealed sample. • There is no needle damage. • Button and buttonhole stitching is neat and secure, and that buttonholes are correctly aligned to the button. • Reinforcing is present e.g. bartacks, shoulder tape etc. • Stripes and checks to match at side seams and centre front, collars to be balanced and pockets are even. Check that stripes do not run off along the hem line. • No shading within the garment. • Ribs and cuffs are of even width throughout their entire length. • Collars and pockets are securely sewn, evenly balanced and correctly aligned. • With front fastening styles, check that all front edges are level at the hem line and that the top placket adequately covers the under placket. • Garments are free from loose threads and that threads are cleaned from inside and outside of each garment. • Garments have been correctly pressed, that they are not overpressed and glazed or underpressed and creased. • Garments are hung/folded and packed exactly as detailed and check all labels/stickers on bags are correct. Page | 45

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide Apply the allowed tolerances Tolerances are a plus or minus measurement used on a tech pack to determine whether a product meets a specified quality standard. It is usually expressed as plus or minus. For example, one point of measure (POM) for a bust line may say the tolerance is plus or minus 1/2″. This means that for each size (34, 36, 38 etc), the garment bust measure could be 33.5″-34.5″ for the size 34; 35.5″-36.5″ for the size 36, etc.. My inquiry today is how are these tolerances determined? Frankly, it seems like many of them are drawn out of thin air or copied from similar tech packs wherever one can find them. Tolerances are a new wrinkle and I‘m not finding established or good practices to follow. In the olden days, few worried about tolerances because most everyone made their own stuff. Since things have changed, people have been winging it and don‘t let anyone tell you differently. That doesn‘t mean some people don‘t have the right or good answers only that there is no established practice, much less agreement on how to do it. Some things I‘ve seen are using half the grade rule as a tolerance which as a rule per se, doesn‘t work. For example, if the grade rule were 2″ and the tolerance were half that (1″), the product could measure an inch over or an inch under and still make the spec. I also don‘t agree that the larger the piece, the larger the room for error (permitted tolerance) could be. In trying to drill this down into something that can be determined in a concrete way, the illustration below is something I‘ve come up with. I‘m not saying this is the answer, not saying it is the best and I‘m not saying somebody else doesn‘t have a better solution [but I‘d certainly love to hear about it!]. Page | 46

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide My idea is pretty simple in that it is tied to production processes. In the top pane is a tolerance for cutting the side seam, specifically 1/16th on each seam making for a total tolerance of 1/4″ because cutting is where one can make errors. Ideally a cutting error would amount to one side, once, so I think 1/4″ is very generous. Still, we don‘t measure cut pieces for tolerance, only sewn ones so the lower pane includes a tolerance for sewing. Again, each side is allotted 1/16th. An error or variance occurring at this stage is actually more possible -or should be more possible- as compared to cutting. Adding the two together, we come up with 1/2″ total tolerance for this point of measure laid flat. [Yes of course, as only the half measure is taken this would amount to a full inch; you‘ll need to be specific in your specifications as to whether these are full or half (flat) measures.] Page | 47

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide In total, 1/2″ (or 1″all around) is too much -in my opinion. Reason is, if you were running numbered sizes with only 1″ difference between sizes, a size 2 could be as large as a 4, the 4 could be as small as a 2 and both would still meet the specification. So returning to my exercise of attempting to arrive at a solution, I would halve the tolerance from the worksheet to make the final tolerance only 1/4″ (or 1/2″ for total girth). Identify faults and take appropriate action for rectification 1. Design/ Sketch: It in given by buyers to manufacturers containing sketches including measurement of all components. 2. Basic Block: Basic block is an individual component of garments without any design or style. 3. Working Pattern: The pattern set which is used for sample making is called working pattern. 4. Sample Making: After getting all the specification the sample is mode and sent to the buyer for approval or to rectify the faults. 5. Basic Manufacturing Difficulties: The critical path is identified, that is the problems during production are simplified. 6. Approved Sample: After rectify the faults, sample is again sent to buyer, If it is OK then it is called approved sample. 7. Costing: fabric consumption, making charge, Trimmings, Profit. 8. Production Pattern: Add allowance with set dimension. 9. Grading: By following working pattern approved sample is made for medium size. It the buyer require different size. We have to grade the dimension. It may be S, L, M, XL, XXL, etc. 10. Marker Making: Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of all sizes of a particular style. Page | 48

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide 11. Fabric Spreading: To spread the fabric on the cutting table properly for cutting. 12. Cutting: To cut fabric according to marker dimension. 13. Sorting & Bundling: Sorting out the component according to size & for each size make individual bundle. 14. Sewing: Sewing is done by different types of machine by the operator. Quality inspection is also done in that time. 15. Ironing & Finishing: Garments are treated by steam. Also several finishing process are done for example- extra loom thread cutting. 16. Final Inspection: Should meet specification given by buyers 17. Packing: Poly packing 18. Cartoning: After packing the garments are placed in a hand paper box for export so as to minimize damage. The cartoons contain all the information over the box according to buyer‘s instruction. 19. Sent to Buyers: If everything is OK. It is sent to the Buyers. Different Sections in a garments Industry There are mainly four sections in a garments industry.  Sample section  Cutting section  Sewing section  Finishing Section Page | 49

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator Participant Guide (1) Sample section: this section includes designing to marker making. The main function of this section is to make approved sample. (2) Cutting section: This section includes process starting from ―marker making to sorting & bundling‖ to cut fabric according to marker dimension is the main function of this section. (3) Sewing section: This section includes only sewing. The function of this section is to make complete garments by using all of the cutting components for a particular style of garments. (4) Finishing Section: This section includes process from ―Ironing to sent to buyer‘s, after making garments. It should treated by steam. Iron & use in it all of the finishing accessories & ultimately make the garments attractive as per buyer‘s approved sample. Some Definitions & Terms Sample Garments: Before going to star bulk production at first we have to make small quantity of garments which is sent to buyer for approval, these garments are called Sample garments. Sample is always make upon medium size & it is quantity is at least 3-5 pieces or as per buyer‘s requirements. Approved Sample: The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample. Counter Sample: To run the production smoothly we made the some Extra sample. Which represents 100% same as approved sample this is called Counter Sample. Page | 50