Occupation, Business and Technology Book 8_2077 Edition

• Dead larvae are seen in front of the hive entrance. • Colour of larvae changed to yellowish brown. • Abnormal larval position (Extended, not coiled). • Foul smell comes from infected and decayed larvae. Prevention and Control • It can be treated with the antibiotics called Oxytetracycline hydrochloride (OTC). • Requeen the colony every year. • If a colony shows signs of disease, cage the queen for 11-14 days to make the colony broodless and then transfer the bees to a new hive with new combs and a new queen. • Burn the entire infested hive and combs from a diseased colony. ii. Thai Sacbrood Virus (TSBV) A virus causes this disease. It infects the abdomen of the larvae of bees. Workers transfer this disease to other young larvae during nursing and cleaning the hive. This disease was first identified in Thailand; it reached Nepal in 2038 BS and had spread as epidemic till 2042 BS. During this period, it destroyed more than 90% of the managed Apis cerana colonies. Signs and Symptoms • The brood pattern becomes abnormal. • The cap of the diseased pre-pupa is sunk at the centre and sometimes perforated. • It may appear black at the centre. • Workers make holes at the center of the caps to remove diseased larva. • The skin of the infected larva becomes soft and swells. • If the infected larva is picked out, using a forceps it looks like a sac filled with liquid. • The larva dies in the pre-pupa condition just after capping. • Under the cap, the colour of the dead larva changes slowly from light yellow to brown and finally black, starting with the head and followed by the thorax and abdomen. Prevention and Control • Always keep the colony strong and make sure it has sufficient food. • Select for disease resistant colonies. Occupation, Business BOOK 201 8and Technology Education

• Identify any diseased colony and isolate from the apiary. • Transfer the bee to a new comb foundation and feeding syrup. • Cage the queen to create a broodless condition or make the colony queenless. • Destroy and burn diseased combs and frames. iii. American Foulbrood American Foulbrood The rod-shaped spore forming bacterium called Paenibacillus larvae causes this disease. It is the most destructive bee brood disease. Young larvae up to 3 days old ingest the bacterial spores with food. The spores can survive even in high temperature, excessive cold, and treatment with various chemicals. Care should be taken to prevent invasion of this disease when importing honeybees from outside the region for any purpose. Signs and Symptoms • The infected larva changes colour. • The larva dies after the cell is capped. • The cap appears sunken, perforated, moist, and dark. • A sticky, thread - like, brownish, semi-liquid material is seen when recently dead larvae or pupae is taken out. • Finally, the dead brood turns into a scale- like structure attach to the cell. Prevention and Control • This disease can be prevented and controlled by the use of Terramycin (Ox-tetracycline hydrochloride). • The most common control measure is the complete destruction of the colony by burning. iv. Chalk Brood Chalk Brood Chalk brood is a larval disease caused by the fungus called Ascosphaera apis. The fungus produces spores, which enter into the stomach of the young larvae with food. The infected larvae become hard, white and dry as chalk. 202 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Signs and Symptoms • An infected larva does not show any symptoms at first but dies inside the capped cell two days after capping. • The larva then softens and swells slightly. • Later it shrinks and becomes a hard white chalk-like structure. Prevention and Control • These disease outbreaks mainly occur in the cold season so try to avoid dampness and make strong colonies. • Remove old and abandoned combs and replace with dummy boards. • Ensure the colony has sufficient food. b. Adult Diseases i. Nosema It is a parasitic disease. It is caused by the parasite called Nosema Apis. This disease attacks the digestive system of adult bees. After the attack by this parasite, bees cannot fly and the queen cannot lay eggs. There is swelling in the stomach. In the final stage they die. Signs and Symptoms • Thin faeces are seen inside and outside the hive. • Diseased bees have a swollen stomach. • Storage of honey and pollen is low. • The brown intestine of a healthy bee becomes white and swelling is observed in an infected bee. • The excreta of infected bees have a foul odour. Prevention and Control • A strong colony usually recovers naturally from infection otherwise technical consultation is necessary. • To control this disease, spray formalin at the rate of 20 gm per liter inside the beehive. • In the case of severe condition, consult expert for the treatment and control of the disease. Occupation, Business BOOK 203 8and Technology Education

ii. Paralysis Virus in the adult bees causes paralysis. Generally, this disease attacks the bees during summer season. Several viruses can cause paralysis including cloudy wing virus, acute paralysis virus, Arkansas virus, black queen cell virus, deformed wing virus, Kashmir virus, iridescent virus, and filamentous virus. Signs and Symptoms • The infected bees move their wings and bodies abnormally. • They are unable to fly, and crawl on the ground. • They develop swollen stomach and detachable Paralysed honey bees ‘K’ shaped wings. • Ultimately, they become unable to fly and then die within a few days. Prevention and Control • These viruses cannot be controlled with pharmaceuticals so good colony management practices should be adopted as a preventive measure. • At the same time, we need to replace infected queen with new healthy queen. • Clean hive regularly. • Replace old combs every 2 years. c. Predators The predators like wasps, moths, ants, and mites kill the bees and adversely affects bee keeping. i. Wasps Wasps look similar to bees but are larger. Damage Wasp eating a honey bee As well as eating dead bees, wasps may capture flying bees and bees from the hive to feed to their larvae. Control • Individual wasps can be killed with a fly swat (flapper). • It is better to locate and destroy nests by fire or other means. • Reducing the hive entrance size will also help guard bees to defend better against intruding wasps. 204 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

ii. Moths There are two types of moths affecting beeswax. The greater wax moth is pale brown and rather larger than a lesser moth. The lesser wax moth is cream- coloured, and has a yellow head. Damage Wax moths feed on beeswax. The moths’ larvae feed on the wax in the combs and make holes or webbing tunnels which contain faecal pellet. As a result, the whole comb may be converted into a mass of webbing. Wax moths particularly infect the old drained combs in a weak colony. The greater wax moth is common in hot areas in the summer and rainy season, whereas the lesser wax moth is common in hill areas at most times of the year. Control • Preventive measures include maintaining strong colonies. • Regular inspection and cleaning of hives. • Narrowing the entrance and sealing cracks and crevices. • Removing and storing safely any old drained combs. iii. Ant Ants are normally wingless, six-legged, and predatory insect. They generally nest in the ground although some nest above the ground. Bee eating ant Damage They enter hives and feed on honey and brood; some species catch adult bees and feed on them. Control • Mount the hive stand, grease the legs of the stand, and place them in bowls filled with water. • Remove any weeds from around the hives so that ants cannot use them to climb up to the hive, and narrow the hive entrance. Occupation, Business BOOK 205 8and Technology Education

iv. Mites There are different types of mites, which affect honeybees. Some are internal and some are external. Some cannot be seen with the naked eye while others are clearly visible. Damage Mites affect honeybees by sucking their body fluid. They can directly affect larvae, pupae, and adult bees. Control • Soak a cotton ball with 5-15 drops of liquid menthol and place in a matchbox or a small-perforated plastic bag on the bottom brood inside the hive. Leave to evaporate slowly. Repeat weekly for 6-7 weeks. • If the mite population is excessive, all the bees should be transferred to an empty hive and the old hive containing brood with mites should be killed by burning. • Dusting of wheat flour on the bees in the hive supports mites to slide down and drop-off the bees. Then, the dropped mites can be collected and killed. 3. Benefits from Beekeeping Bee-keeping is the activity of the people managing honeybees in hives in order to collect honey and other products, pollinates crops and raise bees for sale. Honeybees are important crops pollinators and it can help farmers maximize pollination and increase crop production while providing honey and other products like beeswax, propolis, bee venom and bee colonies. Some of the direct benefits of bee-keeping are described below: a. Honey Honey is a sticky, semi-liquid, scented product made by honeybees from the natural nectar or honeydew of flowers and plants, which is collected, concentrated, and stored by the bees in combs. Honey is stored after processing. Here, processing mainly refers to heating and removing wax particles, brood or foreign materials from the honey. In the heating method, honey need to be heated at 65°C for 5 to 10 minutes. It helps to evaporate excess moisture and improve the keeping quality. Pure natural honey contains more than 100 kinds of rare and useful vitamins, minerals, and other ingredients. It can provide a rapid source of energy and 206 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

strengthens resistance to disease. It can be used as a food and a substitute for sugar and other sweeteners. So, honey is useful to all people more than a year old. Benefits • Helps to cure illness such as coughs and cold, hiccup and diarrhoea. • Reduces the symptoms of tonsillitis, sore throats, and similar diseases. • Helps in the physical and mental development of growing children. • Keep the body active and restores energy. • Helps to reduce menstrual pain. • Helps in semen production • Increases digestive ability. • Increases memory power. • Cures urinary infection. b. Wax Bee wax Worker bees have four pairs of wax glands located ventrally on the abdomen which are usually active when they are 12 to 18 days old. Wax secreted from these glands flows on to wax ‘mirrors’ where it is in contact with the air and solidifies to form wax plates. The bees remove the wax plates with the help of their pollen rake and pass them to the mandibles. They chew and soften the wax by mixing with saliva before using to construct combs and seal cells. Beeswax is lighter yellow to white in colour. Old combs turn into brown colour. Beeswax melts at 61° to 64°C and gets cracked and powdery if very cold. Processing • Cut the comb into pieces, wash with clean water, and soak for 24 hours. • Re-clean the soaked pieces with the clean water. • Put the cleaned comb pieces into a stainless steel pot, add water, and heat gently until the wax is completely melted. • Filter the melted wax through a cloth bag or jute sacking and collect in a clean stainless steel pot. • Squeeze the cloth or jute bag with two sticks to extract all the melted wax and throw away the remains with the bag. Occupation, Business BOOK 207 8and Technology Education

• Keep the wax safely in a room or at least in the shade until solidified (usually for 24 hours). • Remove the solid wax block from the pot and scrape off the residue at the base of the block with a knife. c. Pollen Pollen collected by bees from flower anthers is rich in protein. It is important for brood rearing and half of all foragers collect pollen during the brood rearing period. 4. Quality Control and Storage of the Products The quality control of honey has become an important issue as the scope of bee keeping is increasing day by day in our country. Customers are in the problem due to adulteration in the product by mixing sugar, molasses, and other unwanted substances. Adulteration in honey can be detected even by a simple field method by observing its taste, viscosity, and solubility in cold water. For example, if a droplet of honey poured into cold water stays together without dissolving rapidly, it is most likely pure honey. If the edge of the droplet starts dissolving during pouring, the honey is likely to have been adulterated. The scientific quality test is possible at the laboratory. After processing, the honey products should be stored safely in leak proof airtight container or transparent bottles beyond the reach of direct sunlight. The storage temperature of 20ºC is considered appropriate. 5. Preservation, Packaging, and Marketing of the Products To gain maximum benefit from the bee keeping and honey, it is first necessary to do proper preservation, packaging, and marketing of the honey products. In order to manage the honey market there should be proper packaging, labelling, branding, and quality control of the product. In Nepal, the different organizations and business enterprises are found involved in processing, packaging, and trading of the honey products. Rationalization, product specialization, and local and international marketing are extremely important for its business. Activity Reach a bee keeping farm nearby your locality and observe the activities of honeybees. Prepare a report and present in the class. 208 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Word meaning Apiary : a place where bees are kept, usually in beehives Colony : a collection of animals, birds, bees, etc Crevices : a crack or narrow opening Drones : the male of the honeybee and makes no honey Flower anthers : a pollen-producing part of flower, found at the tip of the stamen Forage : plant material that livestock graze or that is cut and fed to them Intruding : projecting inward Mandibles : one of the first pair of mouth part appendages, typically a biting organ Pellet : a small ball of wax, paper, etc. Pollinator : an insect that carries pollen from one flower to another Propolis : a greenish-brown resinous aromatic substance collected by bees from the buds of trees for use in the construction of hives also called as bee glue or hive dross Webbing tunnels : holes made by animals especially the moth larva Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. Explain the importance of bee keeping. 2. Explain any two brood diseases of honey bee. 3. Mention the causes, signs and symptoms; and prevention and control measures of any two adult diseases. 4. “Bee keeping business can change the economic condition of the farmer.” Justify 5. Write a short note on management of feed and pasture for bee keeping. Practical Work Visit a honey producer in your community. Ask him/ her about the requirements for the bee keeping business and its market management and present a report in the class. Occupation, Business BOOK 209 8and Technology Education

UNIT12 Arts and Crafts Learning Achievement After the completion of this unit, students will be able to:  make bunch of flower, file, banner, invitation card, and kite from paper and sell them in the market.  make Origami and Kirigami items.  make fan, curtain, mat etc from cane/straw/bamboo/baabiyo and sell them.  make dolls and toys from waste materials and sell them.  learn simple wood and stone carving.  do colouring and shining different items.  plan for producing handicraft items in a small scale. 210 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Lesson 1 Construction of Paper Items a. Corrugated Cardboard Corrugated cardboard Paper can be used for manufacturing different items. We can make box from paper for packaging goods. A paper is folded in a corrugated form to make it stronger as cardboard paper, which can be appropriate for making box. While making a corrugated cardboard, the lower and upper paper of corrugated part is fixed with glue. This cardboard will be strong and durable. The boxes made from corrugated cardboard are used for packing TV, fridge, computer, cooker, etc so that they can be transported safely from one place to another. b. Construction of Box Construction of box The process of constructing boxes from materials like cardboard is called development in geometry. A box is constructed as per theory of development. Therefore, a corrugated cardboard of required size should be taken for constructing a box. There are six sides in a box. These sides are made by folding corrugated cardboard. c. Construction of Invitation Card Invitation card or Greeting Card Invitation or Greeting cards are needed during some occasions like marriage, Bratabandha, birthday, New Year or any special ceremony to exchange greetings or invitations. These cards can be made from cardboard paper, art paper or Nepali hand paper as per the wish. They can be Occupation, Business BOOK 211 8and Technology Education

prepared by folding or without folding paper. When the card is ready, necessary statements are written on it and used according to the occasion. The cards can even be made more attractive by applying different patterns and decoration on the edges. Activity Make a greeting card and write best wishes to give it to your friend during New Year. d. Construction of Kite Construction of kite A kite is a light framework covered in a thin light material, flown for fun in the wind at the end of a long string. It is mainly flown during the months of Aswin and Kartik. Thread and thread reel are needed to fly a kite. A strong thread is good for flying a kite. Every year, a competition to fly and cut kites is conducted where the winners are declared as first, second and third. While constructing a kite, a wrapping paper with the size of 30×40 cm, scissor and two small pieces of bamboo stick are required. The wrapping paper is cut with scissor in a diamond shape. Two small pieces of bamboo stick are attached on the diamond shaped paper, one vertically and other horizontally joining two opposite corners. Upper section of the stick from the point of intersection should be made shorter by bending it than that of the lower section. When the kite is tied at the middle of vertical stick with thread and joined with roll of thread on thread reel, it is now ready to fly. The kite can be made attractive by adding various decorations. e. Sale and Distribution The paper made items have become more popular nowadays. Invitation card, flower, kite, flower bunch, paper bag, paper file, etc are sold and distributed in the market. Stationery shops sell these items in retail after buying from the wholesaler. 212 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Activities 1. Determine price of paper items that you have produced. 2. Sell paper items in the market. 3. Keep account of buying and selling of the business of your paper items. Word meaning Corrugated : folded into parallel ridges and troughs Goods : commodities Horizontally : flat Intersection : meeting point Retail : the selling of goods directly to customers Vertically : perpendicularly Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. Why are the boxes made from corrugated cardboard good for packing goods? 2. Why is an invitation card made for? 3. How is a kite prepared? Practical Work Divide your class in two groups and each group makes a box or a kite. Occupation, Business BOOK 213 8and Technology Education

Lesson 2 Construction of Various Domestic Items 1. Bamboo Mat (Maandro) Although the bamboo and cane are different construction materials, they are generally called Bet-Bans together in Nepali. The nature of cane and bamboo is different. The cane is given different shapes by bending it whereas bamboo is used by taking out its long bars (Bhaata). The bamboo is commonly used in the construction of building as well as to make kitchen items nowadays. a. Tools used in Mandro Construction Sickle (Karda) : These two tools are used to take out flakes from bamboo. Knife (Khukuri) : These tools are used to split bamboo. Saw (Aara) : This is used to cut bamboo into pieces. b. The Process of Taking Out Flakes (Choya) First of all the bamboo should be cut into pieces. The inner white part of the bamboo pieces should be removed and then the flakes should be taken out by using sickle or Karda. c. Weaving of Bamboo Mat (Maandro) Taking out flakes Weaving of Maandro Flakes are taken out from bamboo. They are the small flat pieces or layer detached from the larger piece of bamboo. When these flakes are weaved or interlaced, a large mat is prepared. It is constructed in different designs. The designs depend on the process of weaving. If the flakes are wider, the weaving is faster. 214 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

The Maandro can be constructed in different size and shapes like rectangular or square. When the desired size is constructed, the edges should be interlocked. The unnecessary parts of flakes should be trimmed or twisted. d. Use of Maandro Maandro is used by the farmers for drying the grains, making storage for grains and covering the cowshed. It is also used to make ceiling under the tin and decorate the walls of restaurants. Activity Drying grains on Maandro Make a small Mandro taking out Choya from bamboo. 2. Weaving of Bamboo Basket (Dhakki) Weaving of Dhakki Various items are used to construct Dhakki. Mainly, the straw (Chhwali) is used to construct Dhakki. The materials like straw, Babiyo, bamboo flakes etc are used in Dhakki construction. The required materials should be collected to start constructing Dhakki. The construction of Dhakki starts from the bottom and it is constructed up to the height of 15 to 20 cm. The edge should be properly interlocked. Activity Visit an industry where Dhakki or Mandro is constructed and note the process of weaving. Occupation, Business BOOK 215 8and Technology Education

Word meaning Interlace : knit Interlock : fit together closely Trim : make something tidy by cutting Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. Why is bamboo useful to human life? Explain. 2. What is the use of Maandro? 3. Write the process of taking out flakes (Choya). 4. What are the uses of Dhakki? 5. “Bamboo work is a popular occupation in Nepal.” Present your logic to justify the given statement. Practical Work 1. Construct a model of Dhakki using Babiyo or straw. 2. Determine the price of Dhakki that you have constructed applying the process of price determination. 216 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Lesson 3 Reuse of Waste Material We use various materials in our home, school, shop, office etc. The residuals of such materials and unused things can be collected and divided into different groups. These can be reused or used for making other required materials. The waste materials can be grouped into biodegradable and non-biodegradable materials. 1. Biodegradable Waste The materials made of substances that will naturally decay relatively quickly are called biodegradable materials. The waste from kitchen like residuals of vegetables, waste foods, etc can easily decompose naturally. Similarly, paper waste produced from the classroom, home, shop and office are also biodegradable items. These wastes can be used for making compost manure. The biodegradable waste produced from the Biodegradable waste houses and hotels should be collected in a ditch daily. When the ditch is filled, that should be covered by grass. It can be used as compost manure after two months. If these materials are turned up and down in the ditch from time to time, the compost manure can be of good quality. 2. Non-biodegradable Waste Plastic bags, old clothes, bottles, milk packets, etc cannot be decomposed easily in the nature. They are called non-degradable waste. Some of the waste items and their reuse are discussed below: Occupation, Business BOOK Non-biodegradable waste 8and Technology Education 217

a. Waste Clothes: We can sell the old clothes as per its condition. It can fulfill the need of other needy people. This trend is increasing in Nepal. The clothes of kids get smaller as the kids grow faster. These old clothes can be reused after proper washing and ironing. The damaged part can be sewed, buttoned, patched for reuse. If the waste clothe is not use-able in the same Reuse of waste clothes form, it can be changed into another form like a bed cover, window curtains or pillow cover or rags for cleaning. It can even be reused by patching up with artistic clothes. b. Waste Bottles: Most of the bottles are sent for recycle but some are not sent for recycle. These bottles can be reused by painting different designs for decoration. The items made of plastic do not decay and form soil. These items are non- biodegradable items. Plastic is a by product Reuse of waste bottles of fossil fuel. The waste materials produced during the manufacturing of petroleum product are used to make plastics by chemical reaction. We can sell recyclable plastics to the recycle plants. The non-recyclable plastic waste can be used in different ways. They can be used by cutting and making stripes for making doormats, Dhakki, Chakati, Gundri, etc. Activity Make 1-1 usable item made from the waste materials. 218 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Word meaning Byproduct : secondary result Decompose : decay Patch : a piece of material used to cover Residual : something left over Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. Name the products produced from the waste materials produced in your school, home, market or office. 2. What are the advantages of reusing waste materials? 3. Why do we keep only biodegradable items for making compost manure? 4. How can we get benefits from the waste materials? 5. Make a list of non-biodegradable materials. Practical Work 1. Collect some waste plastic bottles and reuse them to make different items for decoration. 2. Construct a cushion or pillow from waste clothes. Occupation, Business BOOK 219 8and Technology Education

Lesson 4 Wood and Stone Carving (Wood Art) Artisans have introduced Nepal to the world. They have decorated temples and palaces with designs of wood and stone arts. These temples and palaces have earned popularity in the world. Such popularity is directly related to the art. The unique combination of art and skill is reflected in the designs and statues of stone and wood art. 1. Stone Carving Tool/Chisel (Chhina) Stone carving tools Chisel (Chhina) is a tool for cutting and shaping stone, consisting of a straight flat beveled blade. The chisel is often held in one hand and struck with a hammer. They are used to carve shapes according to the need. 2. Wood Carving Tool a. Skews: This is also a chisel but its cutting edge is slanted at an angle of 45°. It is used to form corners. b. Gauge: It is available in different Wood carving tools sizes. It is used to make concave curve. It is also called a curve flutter. Another type of gauge is spoon gauge. Its cutting edge is bent. It is used for making hollow and a smooth surface. c. Fishtail gauge: This gauge is in fishtail shape. It helps in shape cutting and creating corners. d. Black belt gauge: This gauge helps to create convex shape. e. Hammer: It is used to strike chisel for creating designs. f. Pencil and carbon: Pencil is used to shape and sketch designs. The pencil used for sketching designs is soft. The sketch or shape drawn on paper has 220 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

to be stuck on the wood. According to the figure stuck on the wood, the design is carved. g. Sandpaper (Khaksi): It is a strong paper coated on one side with sand or another abrasive. It is used for smoothing surface. Sandpaper is available in different grades from rough to smooth. The grades are mentioned in numbers. No. 60 is rough sandpaper and no. 100 is smooth sandpaper. 3. Selection of Tools The tool should be selected according to the design. The size and shape of the tool also differ as per the design. So, it should be selected carefully. The selection of tool can be easier and simple with the work experience. 4. Protection of Tools The cutting edge of the tool should be well maintained. The stone carving tools should be selected according to the design. The cutting edge of the tool should be strong enough so that it will not bend and damage the stone or wood while carving. 5. Selection of Wood for Carving Design There should be appropriate selection of wood for carving into designs. The wood of Saal tree is good for carving designs and it can be durable as well. The trees like Sisau, Saaj, Haldu, Pine, and Oak are also good for wood carving. The crack free wood, on which hole can be made, should be selected. 6. Preparation of Goods The width, breadth and length of wood, which will be carved into designs, should be well levelled by using plane. Nowadays, electronic planes are also available in the market. With the use of planes, carpenters prepare smooth and levelled goods of right size. If the width of wood is at least of 1 inch or 25 mm, it will be better for carving into designs. 7. Process of Carving Designs First of all the designs are sketched on the paper according to the size and shape of the wood or stone. Such decorative designs are called pattern. This Occupation, Business BOOK 221 8and Technology Education

pattern is then pasted on the wood. Now the work of carving designs can be started using required tools. It is easier to carve or sketch designs on the plane surface. In this way, the wood or stone carving can be done. The complex designs also become easier with the continuous exercise. Activity Sketch a design for carving on wood or stone and mark where to cut into design. Word meaning Abrasive : coarse Artisan : somebody who is skilled at a craft Bevel : slanting edge Concave : curved inward Convex : outwardly curving Plane : tool for smoothing wood Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. Clarify the importance of wood and stone carving. 2. Sketch a tool needed for carving designs. 3. Why is it necessary to make designs on paper before carving designs? 4. Write the process of wood carving. 222 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Lesson 5 Colouring and Shining Goods Everyone is attracted by beautiful goods. The beauty depends on size, colour and smoothness. The colour also makes the thing more attractive. Wood also has its own natural beauty. The fibers in the wood create natural designs. The colouring and shining process add more beauty to the goods. It also strengthens the goods. Colouring protects the wood from cracking, breaking, water and insects. Some of the materials required for colouring are: sandpaper, steel wool, colour, primer, varnish, shellac polish, oil, brush and thinner etc. The colours like poster colour, enamel, varnish, acrylic etcetera are used for colouring wood items. 1. Methods of Colouring a. Points to remember while colouring goods: Colour should not be smeared. It can be done horizontally or vertically. When we are going to colour the same good with different colours, the part which does not need to be colour, should be properly covered by tape. According to the need, a hard or soft brush can be used. A bigger brush is Colouring furniture appropriate for wider surface whereas a smaller brush is appropriate for narrower surface. b. The process of shining: First of all, the sandpaper should be applied to make the surface smooth. Then apply primer and allow drying. The primer fills the small holes on the surface. Sometimes it raises the fibers and makes the surface rough. Such rough surface should be made smooth using the sandpaper of No. 120. The first coating should be allowed to dry for 6 to 24 hours. A slight use of steel wool is also necessary in the first coating. The second coating also needs 6 to 24 hours to dry. When the final coating is also completed, the good is ready to use after drying properly. The repetition of Occupation, Business BOOK 223 8and Technology Education

coating depends on the condition of goods and surface. The goods can be made more attractive by colouring several times as per the goods’ quality. 2. Method of Shining We can add more shine to the bamboo and wood items. Sandpaper has to be applied for adding shine to the surface of wood or bamboo. After that, varnish can be applied time and again with brush or rag as per the need. The appearance of wood or bamboo looks natural as the varnish is transparent. 3. Process of Varnishing a. Preparation of surface: The surface of the goods should be made smooth by applying sandpaper. The marks of pencil are also removed by scraping or applying sandpaper. Different standard of sandpaper can be used for this purpose. The smooth and clean surface is suitable for varnishing. b. Method of Varnishing: Varnish should be applied according to the fibers on the well prepared surface. When the first coating of varnishing is completed, it fills small holes on the surface and raises the surface. It should be made smooth again using sandpaper of No. 120. After the second coat of varnishing, the surface should be smoothed using steel wool slightly. When the final coat is completed, it should be well dried. This way, the wooden goods can be made shining and attractive. Activity Colour the wooden goods of your school or home and display. Word meaning Sandpaper : strong paper coated with abrasive material Smear : spread something over surface Steel wool : clump of abrasive steel strands Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. Why are the goods coloured? 2. Why is varnishing done? 3. Write the method of colouring. 224 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

UNIT13 Clay Work Learning Achievement After the completion of this unit, students will be able to:  create items of different shapes and size from the clay work.  introduce ceramics and explain the process of making ceramic items.  explain the colours of different categories and use of colours in the clay work.  identify the process of colouring the clay items.  tell things to be considered while packaging the products.  mention the sale promotion method of the products.  tell about posting and keep income and expenditure ledger for the small business. Occupation, Business BOOK 225 8and Technology Education

Lesson 1 Construction of Different Shapes 1. Construction of Flower Vase The pot or other device in which we keep the flowers is called vase. We can keep flowers in the different shaped clay vases in our waiting room, living room and guest room at our house. It helps in the interior decoration of our house. The flowers provide good scents to us. At the same time, it also attracts our eyes. The flower vases with different shapes and sizes are available in the market. Those vases are made to keep the flowers. We can see flower vases made from different materials in the market. Amongst the various kinds of the vases, the clay vases are common and popular. The things like clay, water, mud kneading table, and potter’s wheel are required to make flower vase. The flower vase can be made by applying different methods. Amongst the various methods, the preparation of those items with the help of the potter’s wheel is common in practice. The appropriate type of clay should be managed and kneaded for the processing of coil. The kneaded clay should be made soft and smooth through wedging as per the requirement. Then, the clay should be converted into the coil shape with the help of both hands or in the shape as per your wish. If you want to make a clay vase by yourself, knead the clay with around 0.5 kg. Slice your clay in half with a stiff wire, and check for bubbles or gaps. When the clay is kneaded finely; try one of the methods below to make a flower vase by your choice. a. Making of Clay Vase from the Coiled Method The following procedures can be applied to make clay vase: • Once the clay is warm and pliable, take a fist-sized clump and roll it into a long coil. • Create the bottom starting from one Making a coil from clay end, wrap the coil in a spiral until the bottom gets its size that you have in mind. 226 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

• Lay the first coil on top of the base, and Laying the coil on top the base wrap it around, building up the wall. • To maintain the shape of your pot, support the outside of the pot as you smooth the inside. You can smooth both inside and outside if you wish. • Complete your pot. Add any decoration or glazing as desired. • You may air-dry your pot, bake it, or fire it in a kiln. b. Making of Clay Vase by Potter Wheel Method • Knead the clay firmly and smack it into a Building up the wall of the vase ball shape. • Dry the wheel. This will help the ball of clay adhere to the wheel once it starts spinning. • Place a bucket of water where you can easily reach it to wet your hands while you work. • Throw down the ball of clay to the centre of the wheel, then press it down into a conical shape. • Start spinning as you build up speed, and Finished product wet the clay with one hand on the side of the clay lump. Meanwhile use the upper hand to keep the clay from flying out of control. • Do not stop spinning the wheel. • Wet your hands. Then work the clay into a cone, and then press it down into a thick disk. • Repeat this step a couple of times. This is known as “wheel wedging” and helps to condition the clay. Start of vase making with spinning wheel Occupation, Business BOOK 227 8and Technology Education

• Push a thumb into the middle of Building up the wall of the vase the spinning mass, until it is about The vase is ready 1.5cm from the bottom. The vase is painted • Push 4 fingers into the hole, and work them around until the hole is as big as you would like. • Continue working the hole, using a hand on the outside of the clay to shape your pot. • Gradually pull the clay up with even pressure, until it reaches the desired height. • Spread the top. If you want it a bit wider at the neck, just pull back with your inside fingers. • Remove the finished pot from the wheel. Wet the wheel (not the pot) and pull it from the back of the pot towards you until the pot is separate from the wheel using a stiff wire, holding it with both hands. After the preparation of a large number of clay flower vases, they should be kept together and covered with straw. Then those articles should be fired with the straw flame for its durability. This process makes those clay items more durable and long lasting. The vases also can be painted with different colours to make them look attractive. Finally, we can sell the clay vases in the market. 2. Construction of the Animal Shape from the Clay We can make the shape of different animals through the clay of good quality. Both types of the shapes like solid and hollow shape of the animals can be made 228 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

from the clay. These animal shapes can be used for the construction of baby doll, souvenir, and educational materials. The following process should be Smacking clay into a ball shape followed while making shapes of Process of shaping animal from clay animal: Product is ready • First of all, the mud should be kneaded properly. • Then, the shape of different parts of the body of the animal should be made from the kneaded clay. (During this process, the tail and head should be made after the construction of the limbs). • The different parts of the body should be joined with the clay carefully. (All of these process need to be completed before the clay gets dry). • After completing the work of giving shape to the animal, it should be kept in the shadow of the sun. • Finally, the items can be made strong and durable by firing with the straw flame. Activity Collect the clay vase and animal shapes from the market and discuss about the needs and importance with friends in the class. Occupation, Business BOOK 229 8and Technology Education

Word meaning Dampen : to make damp; moisten Finished pot : pottery items Firing : the act of baking ceramics or glass Glazing : the act of applying a glaze Pliable : easily moulded, moldable Potter’s wheel : a device with a rotating horizontal disk upon which clay is molded by a potter Slurry : a thin slip used in ceramics Smacking : a blow delivered with an open hand Wobbling : to move or rotate with an uneven or rocking motion or unsteadily from side to side Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. Why is the fine mud necessary to make clay items? 2. Mention the construction process of the clay vases. 3. How do you make animal shapes from the clay? Explain. 4. Write any five importance of clay vase and animal shapes. 5. Mention the different steps of clay vase making process through coiled method. 6. Write the difference between the clay making process by potter’s wheel method and coiled method. Practical Work Prepare a vase by using clay and show it to your teacher. 230 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Lesson 2 Ceramics Pottery Ceramics is a hard, brittle substance that resists heat and corrosion and is made by heating a non-metallic mineral or clay at an extremely high temperature. The word ceramic comes from the Greek word for burnt material, “keramos”. Its literal meaning is ‘pottery’. Ceramics are used to produce pottery, china, and ceramic tile. They may also be found in glass, plumbing and construction materials, and spacecraft components. Ceramics can be made stronger and durable by firing, glazing and cooling. The ceramic pottery is more durable, and attractive in comparison to the pots made from ordinary clay. Use of Ceramics The ceramics has been in use since the ancient time. Ceramics can be used to make pots like cup, plate, kettle, etc. The other items like tile, roof tile, and bricks are also the products of the ceramics brick. The research and use of the ceramics has become popular nowadays. The use of ceramics is not only limited with the cup and plate but also with many other items. Construction Process of Items from Ceramics We can make items from the ceramics with the help of the following process: a. Wedging Clay wedging Wedging is the process of mixing the clay by hand by rotating and pressing a clay ball on a table. The purpose of wedging is to homogenize the clay and to remove all air bubbles. For this, the clay must be wedged in a proper way. It helps to make the clay elastic and porous. Occupation, Business BOOK 231 8and Technology Education

b) Forming Forming a clay pot After the clay has been thoroughly Drying process wedged; you need to give shape by applying any of the variety of methods like potter wheel, slab, pinch, coil, and mold. c) Drying As clay dries, it loses water, becomes stiffer, and shrinkage begins. After forming, the items wrap them in soft sheets of plastic and place in the damp room. d) Leatherhard Drying process After the items have dried for a few days Leatherhard items Items at the green ware stage in the damp room in plastic, they will reach the stage of partial dryness known as leatherhard. This stage of drying is characterized by loss of water through evaporation. This is right time to refine the piece (carving excess clay, adding handles or trimming the foot ring of a bowl, etc). e) Greenware When a piece of pottery has dried completely it is called greenware. This means it has lost all water through evaporation and has no flexibility. Now, there is no possibility of cracking of the items. 232 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

f) Bisque Firing Bisque firing clay pots Bisque firing refers to the first firing, without Glazing ceramics glaze. It takes a total of three days from start to finish. The kiln is loaded with the dry greenware and lit, and left overnight to slowly warm. Then the kiln is gradually turned at higher temperature until it reaches 1,800°F. The kiln is then turned off and allowed to slowly cool. g) Glazing Glazing is glass-like surface coating for ceramics. It is used to decorate and seal the pores of the fired clay. The glaze (mixture of ground glass, clays, colouring materials and water) is applied to the bisque pot by dipping, pouring, spraying, brushing, sponging, or some combination of these techniques. The foot-ring of each piece must be free of glaze. h) Glaze Firing The final firing, with glaze is called glaze firing. In the glaze firing, again, the firing process lasts for three days. During the glaze firing, when the temperature reaches 2,350°F the ceramics items are finally ready. i) Over Glazing Ceramics after glazing Sometimes, potters choose to do additional firings to achieve colour and surface effects not possible in the glaze firing. In this technique, the pots are fired at low temperature (1,300°F). Brighter colours and lusters are possible in this process which is not possible to achieve at 2,350°F. Occupation, Business BOOK 233 8and Technology Education

Activity Divide your class into different groups and discuss about the method of making ceramics items. Word meaning Brittle : hard but easily broken Corrosion : gradual destruction of materials by chemical reaction Kiln : a type of large oven for baking pottery or bricks Sponging : to remove, wipe, or clean with a sponge or cloth Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. What is ceramics? Write any three importance of it. 2. Mention the uses of ceramics. 3. Why is it necessary to do a research in ceramics? 4. Write short notes on: a. Greenware b. Glazing in Ceramic Practical Work Observe the scope of ceramics in the market of your locality and write a proposal for the market management of the ceramic items and present in the class. 234 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Lesson 3 Use of Colour in the Clay Pots Colour gives good feeling to the people. It helps people to drive the perspective positive and calm. We can use colour to make the products look attractive and long lasting. Normally there are three types of colours. They are mentioned as follows: 1. Primary Colours Primary colours are sets of the three colours that can be combined to make a useful range of colours. They can not be created by mixing other colours. The colours are red, blue, and yellow. They are also known as RGB colours. The primary colours can be combined to make secondary colours. Red colour Blue colour Yellow colour 2. Secondary Colours These colours consist of two primary colours mixed together. The three secondary colours are purple, green and orange. Red + blue = purple Red + yellow = orange Yellow + blue = green 3. Tertiary Colours (Mixed Colour) These colours are made by mixing of primary colour with an adjacent Occupation, Business BOOK 235 8and Technology Education

secondary colour. When naming tertiary colours the primary and secondary colour names are joined by a dash (-) with the primary always being the first colour. Yellow + orange = yellow-orange Red + orange = red-orange Red + purple = red-purple Blue + purple = blue-purple Blue + green = blue-green Yellow + green = yellow-green These colours can be utilized in the clay work also. We can make the clay items attractive and long lasting with colouring them. 4. Use of Colour in Clay Work First of all, the surface of the clay pots need to be properly cleaned up. Thereafter, the items can be coloured in different attractive images with the help of the brush. It is better to use water resistant acrylic colour. Choose acrylic or tempera paints to colour the air dry clay figurines. Use a fine paintbrush to paint the colours and designs onto the air-dried clay figurines. See the method for watercolour markers above for suggestions on the types of designs to add. In some places , we find the tendency of colouring the pots according to the place specific colouring pattern. While resembling the culture through the clay products, it is better to put colour accordingly. 236 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

5. Colouring Process First of all, a 100 No. sand paper (khaksi) should be used slightly to make the pot surface smooth. Thereafter, brush need to be selected according to the nature of the colour after wearing an apron. Manage the brushes in different shapes like small, medium, and large. A small brush may be appropriate to draw the lines. Then, colouring should be done with the help of the brush as per the requirement. Activity Bring the primary colours. Prepare different secondary and mixed colours with the help of the primary colours and show this process to your friend in the class. Word meaning Acrylic colour : a colour which can be diluted with water but become water- resistant when dry Resembling : to be alike or similar to Resistant : having the capacity to withstand, proof Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. What do you mean by primary colour? Explain with examples. 2. Write the importance of colouring the clay items. 3. Explain the colouring process of the clay items. 4. Write the difference between the coloured and uncoloured clay items. Practical Work Make any one clay item by your choice. Put attractive colour on it and demonstrate in the class. Occupation, Business BOOK 237 8and Technology Education

4Lesson Selling and Record Keeping of the Manufactured Goods We need to manufacture goods according to the demand of the market. The manufactured goods should be of high quality. The following points need to be considered while selling those goods in the market: The goods must be packing in attractive and proper way so that maximum customers can buy those goods. At the same time, they can be kept safely for a long period of time. The following information must be mentioned in the label of the packing: a. Name of the goods b. Name and address of the manufactured company or industry c. Manufactured date d. Expiry date e. Using process f. Warranty Customers believe on the properly labelled goods. So, actual information should be mentioned on the labelling. The attractive packing adds the attraction of the consumers towards those goods. In fact, increase in attraction of the customers towards the goods means good selling of the products. There is some kind of social responsibility of the manufacturer and the distributes. So, they must return some portion of their profit from the selling of their goods to the society. They can perform their social responsibility by contributing money in some genuine social works. They can help the poor and needy students by providing scholarship for their study. At the same time, they can contribute for the construction of public toilet, public tap, school building, etc. There must be a compulsory provision of corporate social responsibility for the manufacturers and distributors for the welfare and development of the society. There must be proper management of 238 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

sale of the goods. The approach of small profit through large scale sale must be appreciated. There should be proper documentation of the accounting of the sale of the goods. We can get the following benefits by keeping accounting in a small business or trade: • Easy to know the condition of the business or trade. • Economic planning is possible with the help of debit and credit document. • It helps for the maximization of the profit and its sustainability. • It helps to calculate total profit and net income. • It helps to know expenditure and other economic activities. Record Keeping System of Income and Expenditure Receipt of Income S.No. Date Bill No. Name of the goods Amount Remarks The record of the income should be documented according to the above mentioned system. It is called ledger keeping. We must keep the record of each of the sold goods. The function of transferring from the bill to the ledger is called posting. Receipt of Expenses S.No. Date Bill No. Name of the goods Amount Remarks Occupation, Business BOOK 239 8and Technology Education

The voucher should be made for the expenditure. Then, the file and ledger should be kept according to the voucher. Activity Visit any business or a trader’s shop and observe the ledger keeping system of income and expenditure. Word meaning Accounting : a detailed report of the financial state or transactions of a person, company, etc Ledger : a book in which the monetary transactions of a business are posted in the form of debits and credits Posting : the act or process of entering data in an accounts ledger Welfare : financial and other assistance given to people in need Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. What is sale? Explain the role of packaging in the selling of goods. 2. Mention the important points that need to be considered while packing the goods. 3. Write short note on: a. Posting b. Ledger keeping Practical Work Visit a shop in your locality. Request the shopkeeper to provide you the receipts and bills of purchase and sale of the goods from that shop in the previous month. Thereafter, prepare a ledger and show it to your teacher. 240 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

UNIT14 Sewing and Knitting Learning Achievement After the completion of this unit, students will be able to:  introduce different types of sewing machines and explain the sewing process.  tell the different essential items while sewing the fabric.  tell the important things to be considered while taking measure of the body for sewing clothes.  take the measure of the body parts for drafting fabric.  introduce and tell the need of drafting in tailoring.  introduce and tell the importance and use of apron.  tell the different forms of buttons and explain the placement methods of those buttons.  explain the buttonhole creating process.  introduce darning and tell the darning method and its importance.  tell the things required for knitting muffler and cap and develop skill for knitting these items. Occupation, Business BOOK 241 8and Technology Education

Lesson 1 Introduction to Sewing Machine It takes long time if we sew the clothes manually. There is no uniformity in the sewing pattern in manual sewing of the cloth. It also does not look attractive and presentable in the public. Therefore, there is use of the sewing machine for the sewing purpose. We know that a sewing machine is a machine used to stitch cloth and other materials together with thread. There are different varieties of sewing machines in the market. Amongst them, hand machine, paddle machine, electrical machine and industrial machine are common in the market. People can use them according to the requirement. Hand operated Electric Paddle operated Industrial Machines vary as to how exactly they are threaded, but all have certain common features. It means sewing machines are different to each other due to their category but they are fundamentally belonging to the similar technology. Home Needle sewing machines are designed for one Needle plate person to sew individual items while using a single stitch type. Pressure foot Industrial sewing machines are larger, Parts of sewing machine faster, and more varied in their size, cost, appearance, and task. They are performance, and durability for 242 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

commercial sewing purposes. They are made for sewing materials such as garments, purses, bags, wallets, boots, and shoes in the textile and leather industries. When you operate the machine, presser feet hold down the fabric then machine starts stitching the fabric by passing its needle down through the fabric at the same speed. When you sew a line, the stitches on Bobbin top come from the spool of thread, while the underside stitches come from the bobbin. We know that a bobbin is a small spindle that is wound with thread. It supplies the bottom thread of the stitches. The bobbin is housed into the bobbin case under the throat plate. It must be remembered that proper stitch length is important while sewing the fabric. Generally, heavier fabrics work best with a longer stitch length, and finer fabrics are best with a shorter Bobbin case stitch length. The needle and bobbin threads are locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom and no puckers at balanced tension. For the work in sewing and dressmaking we will need a large smooth table, a sewing-machine and an iron-board. We also need fabric and matching colour thread according to the fabric. To operate the sewing machine in a smooth manner, we need machine oil, scissors and needle. There is need of tailoring chalk for making diagram and marking on the fabric, iron for stretching the cloth, iron cushion for putting iron on the cloth, wooden ruler and measuring tape for taking measurement of the cloth. At the same time, pin, pin-cushion, and thick fabric are also essential for the sewing and tailoring clothes. We should not start to sew the clothes with the sewing machine once at a time in the beginning. It increases the chance of damage of the cloth. So, in the beginning the articles like paper, newspapers, and old torn clothes can be utilized in trial of sewing and tailoring. In the beginning, the things like cap, bhoto, suruwal, etc need to be practised. The other kinds of clothes can be prepared after being more skilled in sewing. Occupation, Business BOOK 243 8and Technology Education

Activity Visit a tailor and ask for the process of sewing a cap or other kind of clothes. List the steps of sewing that article and present it in the class. Word meaning Electrical sewing machine : any machine designed to sew material driven by electric motor Hand sewing machine : any machine designed to sew material operated by hand Industrial sewing machine : durable and fast sewing machines which are permanently installed on an industrial table Paddle sewing machine : any machine designed to sew material operated by a foot Stitch : to fasten or join with stitches Uniformity : the quality or state of being alike Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. Name the necessary things for sewing the fabric. 2. Explain the different types of sewing machine. 3. How does a sewing machine sew the cloth? Explain the process. 4. Write short note on: a. Industrial sewing machine b. Bobbin Practical Work Draw a well-labelled diagram of paddle foot sewing machine and show it to your teacher. 244 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Lesson 2 Method of Taking Measure of the Body The task of taking measure of the body is the most important part of drafting. If the measure is not taken correctly one cannot make a draft that will fit in the body. If one line is inaccurate, the entire draft will come wrong. The measure of the body is taken to make the clothes look attractive and fit in the body. In this context, one should take the measure of the body before tailoring clothes for the client. The measure of the body should be taken in a proper way. Genuine measurement of the body also saves cloth from wastage. Process of Taking Measure of the Body Measure of bust, hip, waist, high hip, front waist length, back waist length, arm length are taken for drafting and tailoring. At the same time, the length of leg calf and shoulder also should be measured. To achieve the best results while measuring, we need to follow the guidelines that are given below: • The thick clothes should be taken off before taking the measure of the body. • The measure of the body should be taken according to the part of the body. • A measuring tape should be used to take measure of the body. • The measure of the body should be recorded in written form. • The measure should be taken both of the front and backside of the body. • The pattern of draft should be made according to the interest and liking of the client. Finally, hold the tape and measure comfortably snug but not tight. Then take: Full Shirt-Pants Measurement Bust measurement: Stand back of the client. Place the tapeline about the body under the arms and bring it together at the center back. Hold it firmly together with the right hand and step to the side of the client. Keep it well up under the arms and straight across the back. Measure the bust at the fullest part. Measure all around the body (total circumference). Occupation, Business BOOK 245 8and Technology Education

Neck Measurement: Have How to take and accurate body the client remove his/her measurements! collar; never try to take the neck measure over a collar A unless it is sewed to the dress, then take it tightly enough E to allow for the collar. Place the tape-line about the neck A G where the collar should sew B on, and measure about as D A-Bust tight as the collar would be C B- Waist worn. C-Hip F D-High Hip Upper Front Measurement: E-Front Waist Length Place the end of the tape- F-Back Waist Length line exactly on the prominent G- Arm Length bone at the back of the neck. Bring the tape-line around the side of the neck close up to the neck and straight down in front to the top of the line which was placed around the body under the arms. Be sure that you bring the line down exactly straight from the side of the neck. It must not slant towards the back or front. Waist Measurement: To identify exactly where to measure, take the measure of waist where the body bends. It helps to bend side to side. Stand in front of the client. Place the tape-line about the smallest part of the waist. Be sure you have the smallest part of the waist, and draw the measure as tight as a garment could be worn. This can easily and quickly be adjusted about the waist and stay in place nicely. Armhole Measurement: Take this measure about the shoulder up high where the arm joins the body. Be sure to take it up over the high part of the bone. Just have it straight about the body, close up under the arms. 246 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Arm Length Measurement: Measure from the top of the arm (find the bone at the shoulder) to the wrist. It is important to keep the elbow bent to allow for movement when you make a sleeve. Under Arm Measurement: Take this measure directly under the arm, from the top of this line, straight down to the bottom of the line at the bottom of the waist. Have the client raise his/ her arm just enough to take this measure. Front Waist Length Measure: Start at the shoulder (right next to the base of the neck), and measure to the waist, measuring over the fullest part of the bust. Back Waist Length Measure: Measure from the base of the neck (in the centre, not the side), to the centre of the waistline. Back Length Measurement: Place the end of the tape-line on the prominent bone at the back of the neck and measure straight down the back to the bottom of the line about the smallest part of the waist. Be sure to take this measure straight down. It must not slant to right or left. Stand directly back of the client to take this measure. Waist Measure (1): Place the tape-line about the smallest part of the waist. Hip Measure (2): Measure the hips at the fullest part, usually around the seat. Measure of Thigh (3): Measure theBOOK 1 circumference around the widest part 2 of thigh. 3 Measure of Knee (4): Measure the 68 circumference around the top of the 4 knee, above the kneecap, with leg 7 straight. 5 Figure 1: Diagram of pants measurement Measure of Ankle (5): Measure the circumference around the ankle, at the 247 length you would like. Measure of Knee to Thigh (6): Measure the distance from where you measured your knee to where you measured your thigh. Occupation, Business 8and Technology Education

Measure of Ankle to Knee (7): Measure the distance from where you measured your ankle to where you measured your knee. Measure of Waist to Ankle (8): Measure the distance from where you took your waist measurement to where you took your ankle measurement. Activity Visit a tailor and observe the drafting process of the cloth to fit in the body. Prepare a report and present in the class. Word meaning Bust : the part of a garment covering the chest or breasts Drafting : the act of drawing a plan or diagram or outline Pattern : a plan, diagram, or model to be followed in making things: a dress pattern Exercise A Answer the following questions: 1. What is drafting? 2. Which parts of the body need to be measured to prepare a short? 3. Mention the important factors to be considered while taking measure of the body. 4. Which parts of the body need to be measured to draft for a trouser? Practical Work Take the measure of the body of your friend for a pants and draw its pattern of draft and show it to your teacher. 248 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education

Lesson 3 Need and Importance of Drafting Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns. A pattern of draft needs to be made on the paper before the sewing begins of the cloth. Before patterns are traced onto fabric, a similar sketch is prepared on paper. This process is called drafting. Drafting gives designers an idea of how the final look will turn out. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Then, marking is done with the help of the tailoring chalk over the cloth as per the measurement. This work is known as drafting. The chance of damage of the cloth is very rare if the fabric is sewn according to the draft. The paper draft helps in the practice of cutting cloth for tailoring. The paper model should be made in the double folded paper. We should make sure that whether there is adequate space in the draft before cutting the cloth. During the time of drafting , we need to lay out the fabric flat on a cutting surface or on the working table. Lay the tana of the fabric on a flat surface smoothly straight from the left to the right side. The joint part of the folded fabric in tana should be placed facing you and the non-jointed part should be placed in other side of you. During drafting , each curve need to be named according to its use and the ends of each curve should be traced by letters. To do the drafting, one should require a hard pencil, an eraser, pins, paper draft and a straight yardstick beforehand. The draft should be placed skilfully on the cloth. The cloth need to be folded where there is fold in the draft. The sewing process should begin only after the management of all the necessary articles. There must be conformation of inside and outside of the cloth. Then cutting of the cloth should be done by placing the pointed side under the cloth and the wider part on the upper part of the cloth. Occupation, Business BOOK 249 8and Technology Education

The taking of measures is the most important task of drafting. If the measures are not taken correctly one can never hope to make a draft that will fit. The drafting of a garment is no different from the drafting of a house or a bridge. If one line is inaccurate, the entire draft will come wrong. Yoke Collar Placket front Armhole Sleeve (Top center) Sleeve Placket Fly Front Armhole Cuff Yoke Back Drafting of a shirt 250 8Occupation, Business BOOK and Technology Education