Anuário ABC - 40 anos

English Version We conducted during this period, in Buenos Aires, Argentina, at the invitation of Sipatesp, the first joint meeting between employers from the proven sector of Brazil and Argentina, followed by its reciprocal in São Paulo, whose goal was to establish the strategy to be adopted for the moderniza- tion of regulations, aiming at the future Mercosur common market, based on the international market, with reference to Europe and the United States. The 10th colamiqc, held in Caracas, Venezuela, took a delegation of 60 Brazilian participants, taking the country presented nine scientific papers. We ended our management with the participation in the Cosmética 91 held at Shopping Morumbi, where the National Symposium on Aes- thetic Beauty was held, organized by physiotherapist Maria Rita Pereira L. Resende, presenting twelve lectures with a focus on aesthetics, health and wellness. Finally, once again I welcome all who allowed us to contribute to the development of cosmetology in Brazil, based on the mission and principles that guide our organization since our establishment. 7th National Meeting of Cosmetic Chemists Board of directors of ABC: biennium 1989-1991 President: Artur João Gradim Over time, our major events were acquiring a broader approach, besides Vice-president: Henrique Valfrè the presentation, awards on scientific work, and we understand that we must seek to optimize the presence of Congressman so we can know how General secretary: Ariovaldo Minhoto the periphery of its core activity goes, and the impacts that might influence First secretary: Sérgio Antônio Fernandes their work either directly or indirectly. Given the predominance of absolute Second secretary: Antônio Célio S. Rodrigues quantitative micro and small businesses in our industry, and the fact we First treasurer: Remo Gustavo de Simone know how difficult it is for their own professionals or entrepreneurs to par- ticipate, either by lack of time or costs involved, is that we allow ourselves to Second treasurer: Miguel De Bellis address parallel and related issues. Advisory Board: Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Rubens Paulo Becker, Rubens Brambilla, Aristides de Carvalho It is impossible to imagine that a researcher can now forgo being up- Audit committee: Miguel Gellert Krigsner, Alaor Pereira Lino, dated in the regulatory area of the business of his company, as well as in is- sues such as packaging, market data and trends, storage and transportation, Silvana Nardini Bock, Gustavo Hoff Quirino, imports and so forth. Carlos Ará Amiralian, Fátima Andrade Nogueira, Anísio Pinotti, Duílio A. Valdanini Filho, José Luiz Rubini In this period, we also sent facilitation “telegrams”, by virtue of the pas- Regional representatives: Fátima Nogueira (MG), sage of 50 years of activity of Sipatesp, our main partner and ally. Carlos Cruz (PR), Roberto Papov (PR), Another highlight in our management that we could not let pass was Susete Ruppenthal de Borba (RJ), Alberto Viola Stein (RJ), the time of our participation in the III Brazilian Congress Pharmaceutical Products, Cosmetics and Related and 8th Brazilian Congress of Pharmacists, Daniel Barreto (RJ), Olenka Pinto Ramos, promoted by the Regional Board of Pharmacy of the State of São Paulo, José Paulo Santos de Oliveira (RS) in which we had the honor of formatting and coordinating the course of Cosmetology and having me and other speakers with renowed training in Presidents of Associations of industries of Latin America chemistry, breaking a great taboo, still considering a professional board from the pharmaceutical class. ABC, since its foundation, recognizes both professionals, having in practically all managements areas, in the position of president and vice president, one professional in each area. 151

Defined objectives, promptness to act Artur João Gradim (1991 - 1993) Board of directors of ABC – biennium 1991-1993 • Make the process quick, so as to meet the needs of the productive sector whilst maintaining existing legal instruments for the protection of We begin this new phase with defined objectives, readiness in planned health and consumer protection actions in order to encourage, disclose and enhance the various approaches of the technical scientific regarding the scope of ABC. Even in times of new • Harmonize the treatment of domestic products with the precepts of perspectives, but with little chance of success, ABC would be to attend the international law with the parameters required by existing and open trade Special Committee of the Federal Debureaucratization Program, coordinat- within Mercosur and of other trading partners ed by the Minister Helio Beltrão aiming to reduce state interference in the lives of people and businesses. Until 1991 the program revoked 111 thou- • Set conditions to enable effective control and performance by local sand of 127 thousand decrees issued by the Executive power since the Proc- sanitary inspection. lamation of the Republic. We accepted the invitation, prepared proposals in spite on the non-existence, however, of the the possibility of pro-active In my view this was the first big step to the very beginning of the comprehensive actions in the area, caused by the aggravation of the crisis regulations for HPPC products, which, in practical terms, revoked all ar- of government. chaic lists developed mostly in the 1970s, and the repeal of Ordinance 15/89 before the inexistence of its regulation, among other measures. The In April 1992 the ABC engaged himself in the Brazilian Program of Qual- set of proposals presented the request for a permanent advisory commit- ity and Productivity directly participating in the sectorial subcommittee tee, so that the adjustments accompanied the scientific and technological composed of entities linked to the areas of personal care, cosmetics and per- developments, including the safety aspects, among others that interested fumes, cleaners, fragrances and official sectors represented by Inmetro, Sec- the Sanitary surveillance, concerning ingredients and products. The con- retariat of Science and Technology of the Presidency of the Republic, Detens sequences of this proposal reflect in the subsequent resolutions in its ba- / SNVS and DIC (Department of Trade and Industry), Ministry of Economy, sic content, whose final draft regulation is currently practiced in Mercosur. Finance and Planning, aiming to stimulate the formation of a structure with We see it today as a vanguard proposal, a great regulatory benchmark, a technological research centers and laboratories. real agent of change. The national scenario politically and economically troubled had a vi- Because of the dissatisfaction regarding the actions undertaken mainly sion of the future under the environmental aspect in times of ECO 92. Our by the Collor government’s economic team, September 29th marked the on- industry was no longer using propellants (CFC) harmful to the ozone layer, set of the process of “impeachment”of President by the House of Represen- prohibited by specific regulations of the Minister of Health in 1988. tatives, the opening date of our event. ABC, used to develop its work amid the current economic and political instability in the country, was preparing In partnership with ABIHPEC, already under the focus of the new govern- to hold the largest event of the sector, the Cosmetics 92, scheduled for the ment and taking care of the request made by the board of Deten (Technical period from September 30th to October 3rd, in partnership with Sipatesp Department Normative) of SNVS, we presented the sector proposal for revi- sion of the registration of products HPPC. In short, we stated that we would: Gradim and Edson Aleixo, in the center 152

English Version and the Alcantara Machado Eventos, parallel to the 8th Brazilian Meeting of work, marketing and technology applied to the packaging market-oriented Cosmetic Chemists, under the coordination of Rubens Brambilla, and the 5th manufacturer of final products. Aesthetics, seduction, impact, innovation, Meeting of Applied Cosmetics, coordinated by Henrique Valfrè. The event graphic personality, consistency, ingenuity as well as the benefits to con- had its accomplishment in the Exhibition Hall of the Park Anhembi, in São sumers and the community are the criteria, among others, that we had the Paulo. In its closing, there was an outstanding lecture presented by Joelmir pleasure of judging, in a group of experts in each area of its production until Beting, who spoke about the national situation. the final product. We participated as supporters with lecturers with repre- sentativeness of our entity. Until minutes before the opening ceremony, this lecture was threatened to occur before the fact that President Collor was under the request of “im- ABC was present at the Northeast Fair Cosmetics sponsored by the As- peachment” by the Chamber of Deputies. For security reasons, we rented sociation of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Industries of Distillation and camera equipment and recorded the lecture of the late Joelmir, that luckily Refining of Petroleum in Ceará, chaired by our colleague and friend João did not have to be used. Coincidentally, at the end of the event, on October Fernandes Fontenelle. The event, including exposure, achieved the expected 2nd, Collor was finally removed from power, assuming Itamar Franco, who success in the capital of the Brazilian summer. begian a new cycle in the Country. Likewise, as supporters, we were pleased to participate in the“First Inter- 56 assignments were presented in two events (among scientific, techni- national Scientific Congress of Aesthetics”held in the city of Rio de Janeiro, at cal and/or general interest ones) to an audience of over a thousand partici- the Intercontinental Hotel, organized by the Brazilian edition of the magazine pants. The Cosmetics 92 had 140 exhibitors, getting an audience of 47,000 visitors. Guaranteed success for the next edition. Our regular activities that foster cosmetology, such as lectures, kept dur- ing the period it average pace, as well as the publication of the entity. Al- though lacking advertisers, it maintained its regularity thanks to the efforts of the working group. Strengthening Dinner ABC in 1993 The Brazilian Association of Cosmetology celebrated on April 10th, Les Nouvelles Esthétiques then owned by our colleague and friend Dr. Hugo 1983, its 20th birthday. ABC is getting stronger every administration since Turovelzky who brilliantly led the event along with beauticians, lecturers and its foundation forming a solid base thanks to the dedication, companion- guests in an elegant and organized way. Our representation took place at the ship among its managers and loyalty before its status, principles in favor table on the opening ceremony of the event for which we are honored. of promoting cosmetology in the country. Member of the International Federation Societies of Cosmetic Chemists since 1976, it has kept its ap- Commitment pointments with the entity, thus deserving the award in 1987 by Lester As we concluded our management, we were covered by the National Conrad, for presenting the best educational project with scientific focus Sanitary Surveillance service through Deten (Standardized Technical De- for its young associates. partment) and Diprod (Products Division), with a commitment letter with providences, so as to make the review process quicker, whose suppressed Within Mercosur SGT-3 -3 group of pre-measured poducts, normaliza- demand reached levels of absurdity; strengthening the technical team tion adopted for this category the name OIML-87, from the International and implementing advisory group to review the proposed revision of the Organization of Legal Metrology, that replaced, for the member countries, technical regulations in force at the time as to the operability even in its the previous normatives, including part of that which was developed in proceedings. Emphasized the tendency to adopt the risk approach based 1981, in Brazil, through the working group formed by ABC/Abihpec and on the work that aimed greater efficiency and effectiveness in the Health Sipaterj. The new standard is in line with the purpose of participating in Surveillance System. this common market as the internalization of rules, regulations and pro- cedures adopted. During this period, considering its importance to the HPPC sector, we had the honor to participate as a member of the judging committee of the Brazilian Packaging Award organized by Embanews Magazine, a publication of the new publisher at the time, headed by its late founder Mr. Roberto Hiraishi that traditionally awards with market recognition, the best design 153

The engineer Linda Cristina de Oliveira (Kristia), first woman to lead Board of directors of ABC – biennium 1991-1993 the destinies of the entity, alongside other management fellows, for whom this board wished wishes for every success in the opportunity, took President: Artur João Gradim office on August 12th , for the biennium 1993-1995, as an elected presi- Vicepresident: Rubens Brambilla dent by ABC. I was sure that we would have it again or better. I was sure General secretary: Sérgio Antonio Fernandes that we would have all over again or even better than before, in view of First secretary: Ariovaldo Minhoto the certainty that the number of nails hit had overcome the inadvertent Second secretary: Valéria Franco errors and with the dedication, professionalism and proven companion- First treasurer: Miguel De Bellis ship, which had been the major pillars of our management. Just as in the Second treasurer: Carlos Alberto Trevisan same intensity were our partners, highlighting Sipatesp, represented by Advisory Board: Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, its president with whom we were so close, through all our interfaces Gustavo Hoff Quirino, José Luiz Rubini, Sebastião Donizetti Gonçalves, – and I often had the honor of representing them. To our employees in Silvana Nardini Bock, Germínio Nazario, Maria Aparecida Veloso Teixeira, the management, employees who have been with us on this journey, Maria Rita Pereira L. de Resende, Henrique Valfrè our gratitude. To our members and our sponsors, thank you for the con- Audit committee: Carlos Ará Amilarian, Duílio A. Valdanini Filho, fidence. Today, we have nearly 2000 physical associates, and nearly two Maria Alice Marques, Tereza Assunção Souza Lourenço, hundred companies. Sandra Cristina Poli Schimidt, Tânia Cristina de Sá Dias, Elisabete de Fátima Manso, Maria Dulce Assis Porto The first female President Linda Cristina de Oliveira (1993 - 1995) Linda Cristina de Oliveira Since 1989, I have worked at ABC in various board positions. Profession- ally I owned EBPM, a supplier of vegetable, essential and fragrance oils. In As the first female president of ABC, I felt honored and a big challenge 1993, my slate was the winner and I was elected the first female president ahead – to give continuity to what was being very good. At the same time, of ABC. Professionally, he was acting at Beraca Ingredientes, a supplier of the main task of my administration was to promote Brazilian Cosmetology cosmetic raw materials. ethics, innovation, and accountability. I believe that my mission was suc- cessful; however, I feel that the event should have been followed and be- Important facts in Brazil during this period were the impeachment of come a natural example for women to have greater representation within former President Collor, the 1993 plebiscite, with Cruzeiro Real as the new the sector. Nevertheless, I think that the “formula” is not the fact of being Brazilian currency in circulation from August 1, 1993 to July 30, 1994. The a woman; it is the ability to dedicate oneself to an organization and not to President was Itamar Franco; there was doubt as to the fate of the country accept and or impose limitations on others. On the world stage, the highlights were the first cloning of embryos in the United States, the greater Latin American integration and a new environment between these countries in economic relations with the advent of Mercosur. In the field of Cosmetology, in 1993, there was need for knowledge, information, and definition of concepts. Natural ingredients for cosmetics, dandruff and those of marine origin were standouts. ABC’s action in 1993 • The‘93 CosmeticsTrade Show brought together 120 exhibitors and 70,000 visitors from 25 countries and our objective, which was to create a meet- ing point for the cosmetics market, was reached and the event has since become prominent in the sector’s calendar. • Participation in the Cosmetics Current Affairs Award. • Celebration of 15 years of the Aerosol & Cosméticos magazine, published by ABA and ABC. 154

English Version • Several courses on Cosmetology at the ABC headquarters. 9th Brazilian Meeting of Cosmetic Chemists • Major events in 1994, in Brazil, included the election of former President ABC’s achievements in 1995 Fernando Henrique Cardoso and the optimism of the Real Plan. Economic Preparation for the next administration of the 12th Latin American indicators pointed to the growth of activities in various sectors, includ- and Iberian Congress of Cosmetic Chemists (COLAMIQC), held in São Paulo. ing a major expansion in the Brazilian cosmetic market. Highlights, in the Alongside the event, ABC promoted the 1st Latin American and Iberian historical moment, were the conquest, by Brazil, of the fourth FIFA World Beauty and Aesthetics Congress and the 7th Applied Cosmetology Seminar. Cup title, and the beginning of the Internet in Brazil. The year also marked the beginning of the development of partnerships • Cosmetology in 1994 began to show its importance in improving the with institutions such as Senac and Faculdades Oswaldo Cruz – Lab Service, quality of life. It was the beginning of the discussion of the concept of a covenant created for the members for testing and trials in cosmetics. “cosmeceuticals”. There were launches of products with antimicrobial protection and developed for skin protection, as well as investments in research and productivity. Main ingredients: ceramides, moisturizers, and antimicrobials. Stand of ABC at the Cosmetic-93 ABC board – Biennium 1993-1995 President: Linda Cristina de Oliveira ABC in 1994 Vice president: Hamilton dos Santos This year, ABC and other entities signed the letter of intent with the Sec- General secretary: Ariovaldo Minhoto retary of Health Surveillance (SVS), seeking an agreement to establish mecha- First secretary: Nelson Bassoli nisms to streamline the granting of registration of products and development of programs and projects to encourage the continuing education of technicians Second secretary: Tereza Assunção Souza Lourenço in the sector. Also in 1994, ABC promoted the 9th Brazilian Meeting of Cosmet- First treasurer: Marcelo Meira Amaral Bogaciovas ic Chemists, held in São Paulo, and the 6th Seminar of Applied Cosmetology. Brazil in 1995 was marked by devaluation of the real, recession in some Second treasurer: Sérgio Antônio Fernandes sectors of the economy due to the adjustments of the Real Plan, unemploy- Advisory board: Artur João Gradim, Rubens Brambilla, ment and falling consumption, with rare exceptions such as the cosmetics Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Henrique Valfrè, Gustavo Hoff Quirino, industry, which was still expanding. The historical world moment recorded Silvana Nardini Bock, Maria Alice Marques, Germínio Nazario the development of globalization, Dolly the sheep, the first mammal to be Tax council: Duílio A. Valdanini Filho, Carlos Ará Amiralian, cloned, and the earthquake in Japan. Tânia Cristina de Sá Dias, Valéria Franco, Sandra Cristina Poli Schimidt, In the field of Cosmetology, the main highlights were the launches of Marcelo Golino, Maria Inês Bloise, Carlos Alberto Trevisan skin cosmetics and sunscreens, as well as the beginning of greater concern to create anti-aging products. Vegetable oils and mixed vegetable, fruit and Linda Cristina de Oliveira speaks in 12th COLAMIQC flower extracts were the main ingredients. 155

Two biennials of many achievements Artur João Gradim (1995 - 1999) Artur João Gradim Regarding aspects regarding On August 7th, 1995 we assumed the management for the bien- with regulatory aspects (SNVS and INMETRO) nium 1995-1997 at a ceremony held in the auditorium of Fiesp . Among our goals, one of them was to continue the work in progress in order to I consider this biennium as one of the most productive in the history of actively participate in the previous administration. On the other hand, ABC in the technical regulatory, given the importance of HPPC products for in view of the scenario at the time and the perspectives, we had also the Brazilian industry, at a time when it started, in practice, the regional in- proposed specific actions that might contribute to improving the state of tegration in the Southern Cone foreseen in the Treaty of Assunção and Ouro the art in most of our business, in order to increase competitiveness in Preto. The jobs that would be developed, produced structural changes to be a direct market until recently excessively protected. Among the actions, incorporated into the national law of the member countries. ABC, through we highlight: technical training, change in the regulatory framework its representative technical group, having delegated its partner Sipatesp, regarding product registration, updating of technical regulation and me- developed a work with the official sector. It was a groundbreaking work trology, adequacy of companies regarding good industry practices and not hitherto experienced by the sector, since efforts achieved domestically its controls, development of conditions favorable for the availability to only would come to be implemented in national regulations after being execution of services with focus on quality not existent internally in mi- approved also by the members of this common market, through a single cro, small and medium businesses. resolution. Thus, besides the work developed between the private and of- ficial Brazilian, coordinated by Dr. Josineire M. Sallum, we had, as members Among other topics of interest, these were some of the key priorities of the Brazilian delegation coordinated by the official sector, to negotiate to be developed in the technical aspect: to continue the history of good technically with the other representations; sometimes to exhaustion, in an relations with official agencies, providing all the technical support needed attempt to develop a unique content that would fully meet the Brazilian also with our partners, expanding the exposure of the front of our asso- expectation on the subject. ciation members , sponsors and partners, seeking its growth; maintain and, when possible, enhance the actions that are part of the larger goal In this period, seven GMC resolutions were approved in Mercosul and five of developing cosmetology in Brazil, to respect in full the provisions of the of them were internalized in Brazil, including the Handbook of Good Manufac- statute of ABC. turing Practices (SVS No. 348/97).This working group also had participation in the development of three ordinances for the sector, regarding specific admin- I, hereby, report the main actions and results obtained. istrative procedures relating to the registration of products.The publication of Ordinance 71, from May 29th, 1996 which, among other provisions, was the starting point for streamlining the records of cosmetic products at that time, exceeded 20,000 cases pending approval. With its adoption in an exceptional period, 900 cases remained pending for 1997,which were updated in sixty days. This action had the crucial intervention of Dr. Marcelo Azalin (director of Deten / SVS) and Josineire M. Sallum (Diprod / MS) for the success achieved. We made, together with the official sector, an exceptional group consisting of over 50 employees amongst the various committees constituted. The coordinators of this select group, in particular, João Hansen (Avon), Carlos Alberto Trevisan (Boticário), Rubens Brambilla (R. Brambilla Consul- toria), Maria José G. Ayres (Gessy), Gustavo Carturan (Pierre Alexandre) and our late Luiz Brandão, my respectful gratitude and recognition for the work carried out. It was no coincidence that Rubens Brambilla and Carlos Alberto Trevisan occupied the presidency of ABC administrations that followed ours and now, for the biennium 2013-2015, this place is occupied by João Hansen. 156

English Version Therefore, our gratitude to Mr. João Carlos Basilio da Silva, president of Sipatesp, representative body of the industry sector, who, supported by his board, management delegated to ABC that full autonomy in the conduct of technical work undertaken by the group . We also mention the company directors, who offered their professionals and resources for the development and monitoring of that work, which went went beyond the limits of the individual, going to the collective interest. During this period, we also have created through the SVS theTechnical Ad- visory Committee on Cosmetics, in which ABC now has its representativeness. That year, the commission issued three advisory opinions, and the rep- resentative of ABC referred for the evaluation of the group the first proposal for the discussion of microbiological parameters for HPPC products, which would be published in 1997, with implementation for the following year, as approved under Resolution in Mercosur. Luiz Brandão autographing Index ABC 1st Edition I Meeting ABC - Abihpec - Sitapesp The publication, without advertisers, was funded by ABC, according to the agreement with the author, which turned the Association into the only Concerning our publications one to sell the material in its first edition. Through this unique work, Brazil In this administration, we had the release of ABC Index 1st Edition, 1996 , by now has its handbook of ingredients used in cosmetics, being this the sec- the author Luiz Brandão, at a ceremony held at the headquarters of the entity. ond world publication in the genre, which Invaluable source of information More than a condensate of suppliers of raw materials for the cosmetic industry, for micro, small and medium enterprises, which could only refer to interna- for technical and supply areas, the content featured became the first and only tional publications, through the ABC library or by accessing public universi- publication in Portuguese with acceptance by the Body of Sanitary Surveillance ties focused on cosmetology. in Brazil, to be used by the regulatory areas of companies, as a reference mate- rial for the ingredients used in the composition of a product to be registered. The regular publication of ABA and ABC which, for 18 years, continu- With over 1600 products with trade names and synonyms and other ously circulated, has undergone an editorial reformulation, and in January recognized references, a proposed Brazilian Nomenclature for Cosmetic -February 1997, number 104, was renamed as “Cosméticos Online”, with Ingredients was conceived, based on the guidance of the World Health Or- exclusive content from the HPPC sector. ganization and the international nomenclature ( INCI ) released by the Cos- metic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association ( CTFA ). In addition to this set, the Considering the times, cost optimization, rationalization of work needed publication includes a ABC-INCI e INCI-ABC glossary, in order to facilitate the and a long-lasting affinity since 1998, the publication “Cosmetics & Toilet- work of importers by the SVS / MS as well as for exporters, given that the ries”, by the Tecnopress editor, became the official vehicle of technical com- European Community and the United States already practiced this nomen- munication by ABC with its associates, partners, universities, suppliers, clature in the labeling of their products. manufacturers of finished products and raw materials. Lex ABC, condensate of laws and regulations, reference tool easy to up- date, given the form of card index, allowing easy handling and updating. The book “ABC 25 Anos” - The Path of the Brazilian Association of Cos- metology reported, in this commemorative publication of the period, the actions taken, approaches, interfaces and partners since its founding. ABC Microbiology Guide, guidance publication oriented to the practices required for microbiological control and methodologies. To the members of the editorial board, especially to Dr. Henrique Valfrè, in this administration, succeeded by Dr. Rubens Brambilla, our best wishes and our thanks, for their commitment and unmatched dedication. 157

Fairs and Exhibitions Conferences and Seminars organized by ABC As in previous editions, the events held during this period, our most com- With the partnership ABIHPEC-Sipatesp, the editions of the Cosmetics plex activity in terms of organizational aspect, succeeded beyond expectations, 95 and 96 were carried out, organized by Alcantara Machado Trade Fairs and going far beyond the expectations of the entity and its participants. See below: Events, which included the area of end products in the industry and suppli- ers to the industry. 1995 XII Latin-American and Iberian Cosmetic Chemists Congress Starting in 1997, given the repositioning towards his vocation and objec- tives, ABC partnered with Miller Freeman to perform thereafter, their event Location: São Paulo - SP - from the 27th to August 31st under the“FCE Latin America”, focused on the segment of raw materials, equip- I Latin American Congress of Beauty and Aesthetics ment and services, direct focus of ABC. The event was repeated the following VII Seminar of Applied Cosmetics year under the same name. In 1999, aiming at a unique identity, the name of I Cycle of Lectures on Quality and Productivity the fair for cosmetics area was renamed themselves HBA South America, Latin American version of the HBA Global Expo, the largest event of suppliers to the 1996 industry DHCA in the United States, supporting our Congress with full affinity, National Congress of Cosmetology both organized by Miller Freeman with full success, exceeding expectations. 10th Brazilian Meeting of Cosmetic Chemists Theme: Cosmetology: A Science to Art and Creativity Location: São Paulo - SP - Expo Center Norte – from 5 to the 7th of August 1997 National Congress of Cosmetology 11th Brazilian Meeting of Cosmetic Chemists Theme: Safety and Effectiveness Location: Sao Paulo - SP - Expo Center Norte - from the 14th to the 16th July Gradim in the National Congress of Cosmetology in 1997 1998 National Congress of Cosmetology Partnerships developed 12th Brazilian Meeting of Cosmetic Chemists Lab Service - ABC has signed an agreement with Fundação Oswaldo Cruz Theme: The Cosmetic Industry under the Impact of Globalization to implement a microbiology laboratory aimed at providing services to the Location: Sao Paulo - SP - Expo Center Norte - from June 30 to July 2 HPPC industry, to meet the micro, small and medium enterprises that did not have such service in its facilities, serving at the same time, domestic 1999 internship demand for students from the course of Pharmacy of the institu- National Congress of Cosmetology tion. ABC has provided technical support to the laboratory which, in 1997, 13th Brazilian Meeting of Cosmetic Chemists operated in full swing for the industries sector, which was also one of the Theme: The new reality facing the responsible innovation goals of this management. Our thanks to the manager of Fundação Oswaldo Location: Sao Paulo - SP - Expo Center Norte - from the 6th to the 8th of July Cruz , Dr . Quirino Carlos Eduardo Simões. Vanzolini - This institution is linked to the Department of Production Actions with related official bodies Engineering of the Polytechnic University of São Paulo. The partnership re- Inmetro: Seminar of Legal Metrology, Lectures and Workshops within fers to the Project Management Specialization Quality. In 1999, the GMP / the metrology applied to pre-measured products. HACCP course was conducted in the cosmetics industry, also attending one Procon: Development in conjunction with Abihpec, from the Shopping of the goals embraced by this administration. Guide to buy Tanning products and Sunscreens, with broad distribution in order to warn consumers about the dangers of unprotected sun. IPEM: Workshops and support to the the exhibit“Na Medida Certa”. 158

English Version Courses and lectures As in previous years, the completion of courses and lectures kept the av- erage frequency of one every two months, thanks to the human effort of the group and the responsible for the regional offices. Possession of the board of directors in 1997 Heritage In our management, ABC acquired part of the property owned by ABA ABC Board of directors - 1995-1997 biennium (Brazilian Association for Aerosol) and closed the acquisition of property at- President: Artur João Gradim tached enabling the expansion of its activities with the creation of the labo- ratory for practical lessons, courses on equipment, techniques for product Vicepresident: Alessio de Toledo Rodrigues development, among other purposes. General Secretary: Nelson Bassoli First Secretary: João Alberto Hansen ABC board of directors – management 1997-1999 President: Artur João Gradim Second Secretary: Marcelo Meira Amaral Bogaciovas First Treasurer: Carlos Alberto Trevisan Vicepresident: João Alberto Hansen Deputy Treasurer: Silvana Nardini Bock General secretary: Alessio de Toledo Rodrigues Advisory Board: Henry Valfre, José Armando Camargo Amarante, First Secretary: Luiz Antônio Brandão Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Linda Cristina de Oliveira, Second Secretary: Karla Mantovani de Mello Marilene Martins Zampieri, Hamilton dos Santos, Carlos Cruz, Sérgio Leite First Treasurer: Nelson Bassoli Deputy Treasurer: Hamilton dos Santos Audit committee: Miguel de Bellis, Karla Mantovani de Mello, Advisory Board: Carlos Alberto Trevisan, Henrique Valfrè, Hanns Juergen Linnemann, Antônio Carlos Paulino, Linda Cristina de Oliveira, Miguel De Bellis, Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Roberta Baldini Sajoma, Rubens Brambilla, Tânia Cristina de Sá Dias Maria José G. Ayres, Sérgio H. do Nascimento, Agenor Giuliette Júnior Audit committee: Carlos Cruz, Elisabete de Fátima Manso, Elzbrieta Xénia Krygler Catani, Luciano Fagliari, Marcelo Golino, Maria Aparecida Veloso Teixeira, Marilene Martins Zampieri, José Armando Camargo Amarante A fertile time for Cosmetology Rubens Brambilla (1999 - 2001) Rubens Brambilla I have dedicated myself to ABC since its founding.There was a great need in Brazil for our professionals to acquire knowledge, more experience, since the courses in cosmetology were virtually nonexistent. In a few years, the discipline of cosmetology was being taught through courses in Pharmacy, in a very empirical way. Then, a group of professionals (chemists, pharma- cists) had the idea of gathering together and creating ABC, always with an eminently technical target. I believe that the creation of ABC was one of the most important things that happened in Brazil, to strengthen knowledge and studies in favor of cosmetology, as a science. In 1975, I worked in the Chemical Industries Lessin, who had a phar- maceutical division, a cosmetic onde and another one, which was quite important, special sweeteners and sweeteners. My first job on ABC was as a second secretary, during the management of 1977-1979, with Henrique 159

Valfrè. In the first term of Aristides de Carvalho, 1981-1983, I joined the ad- was also important because it defined the parameters of microbiological visory board. I occupied The same position in the term of Miguel Malate, control of cosmetic products. During my management, there was a very 1983-1985, in the second administration of Aristides de Carvalho, 1987- fertile period of decisions taken by ANVISA. It was a very rich period for the 1989 and the second management of Gradim Arthur, 1989-1991. On the Brazilian cosmetology. third management of Gradim Arthur, 1991-1993, I was Vice President. I went back to join the advisory board during the administrations of Linda We also took good care of courses and events for ABC, which gained a Cristina de Oliveira, 1993-1995, and during the fifth management of Artur lot of strength, as people spoke of graduating in the area. We conducted Gradim, 1997-1999. many courses outside of São Paulo, in Curitiba, USP, Ribeirão Preto, in Unaerp also from Ribeirão Preto. The establishment of the cosmetic polo in Diadema I was president of ABC in the biennium 1999-2001, succeeding Arthur led us to start a movement for the city to have a university of Technology Gradim. One of my goals was to sort out the agreements and understand- (Fatec), linked to Centro Paula Souza. Years later, that Fatec became a reality. ings with our sister entities, very important for our achievements. It was a period of many regulatory actions and, therefore, of great weight, influ- ence and good results for all the industrial and commercial sector. It is im- portant to remember that it was at this time that there was the creation of the National Agency for Sanitary Surveillance (ANVISA), similar to what already happened in other countries, notably the North American FDA. The creation of ANVISA, by Law 9782 from January 26th, 1999, was undoubt- edly a regulatory framework in Brazil. From there, the Brazilian personal hygiene, perfumery and cosmetics had a great industrial and commercial evolution, reaching the stage where we are today, that is, of prominence in the international scenario. Important resolution Board of directors of ABC – biennium 1999-2001 Among the ANVISA decisions published during my administration, Board of directors of ABC – biennium 1999-2001 I highlight the Board Resolution (RDC) 335 from July 22nd 1999, which President: Rubens Brambilla caused a great revolution in the industry. It defined the control systems of sanitary toiletries, cosmetics and perfumes and created the notification of Vice-president: Luciano Fagliari category 1 products. From this RDC, the company needed only to inform the General Secretary: Luiz Antônio Brandão Agency of the product launch in the market. The products were released, on up to thirty days. This gave a great flexibility to the companies in launching First Secretary: Sonia Yuri Yokoto their product lines. This resolution was submitted subsequently to Merco- Second Secretary: Maria Valéria R. V. de Paola sur. ABC was part of the ad hoc Health and Cosmetics group. Then, it was internationalized and this caused a real euphoria in the sector. Another im- First treasurer: Hamilton dos Santos portant resolution by ANVISA was the 79 from August 28th, 2000, which Second treasurer: Angel Celestino Lizarraga replaced Decree 71 from May 29th, 1996. Among other provisions, this new Advisory Board: Artur João Gradim, João Alberto Hansen, resolution updated lists of substances used in cosmetic products, but also standards of product registrations, and strengthened the definition and Nelson Bassoli, Henrique Valfrè, classification of toiletries, cosmetics and perfumes in their risk levels 1 and Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Carlos Cruz, 2. Furthermore, it reclassified and updated lists of restricted use and public Elzbrieta Xénia Krygler Catani, Marilene Martins Zampieri use, preservatives, dyes, UV filters. Audit Committee: Eduardo Luppi, Amilton C. Pinterich, Renato Muchiuti, Luiz Antonio Barbosa Mendonça, We had an important role, too, in the edition of the ANVISA RDC 38, Carlos Alberto Trevisan, Maria Rita Pereira Lemos de Resende, from March 21st, 2001, which approved cosmetic products to be used by children. We set up a working group, which worked together with the tech- Frank Hollander, Antonio Celso da Silva nicians of the Agency, which classified cosmetics which would be allowed for children over six years. Now, Resolution 481 from September 23rd 1999, 160

English Version Pioneering actions in favor of ABC Carlos Alberto Trevisan (2001 - 2005) Carlos Alberto Trevisan This participation gave me, at ABC a great knowledge of its structure. So much that I became part of several boards. I was treasurer for several admin- In 1977, a time when I worked at Max Factor, I enrolled at ABC by mail. istrations: Miguel Malato (1983-1985), as the first treasurer; Artur Gradim I heard of the entity through the magazine Aerosol & Cosméticos. Two or (1985-1987), also as first treasurer, again, during the administrations of three months later I received an invoice billing with its due date expired. I Gradim (1991-1993), as second treasurer, and first treasurer in 1995-1997. went to ABC, an office which was on Rua Tabapuã, to see if I could make the In the management of Gradim from 1997-1999 I was part of the advisory payment of the bill. Coincidentally, Dr. Valfre, who I did not know person- board. I participated in many committees representing ABC. I took part in ally and who was at the headquarters of ABC, asked me what I was doing, the elaboration of all cosmetics legislation at the time, of all the working where I worked and if I had time available to do some work for ABC. I said yes groups of Mercosur. I also attended courses, lectures, both in universities and he immediately invited me to be part of a Commission of assignments and in ABC. which, incidentally, began that night. That´s how I joined ABC. By the time I entered the committee, I was already working there. I became president of ABC for the biennium 2001-2203, succeeding Dr. Rubens Brambilla. He could run for reelection, but for personal reasons, Out of this committee, several studies emerged. Such people as Dr. could not apply. So, I was indicated to assume it. Valfre, Dr. Josefina Mendes, the Adolfo Lutz, Dr. Darci Machado Silva, from Avon, Dr. Miguel Malate and Dr. Germinius Nazario, from Adolfo Lutz were One of the big surprises as I took over the management was finding labor participating in it. This committee was responsible for initiating studies to liabilities, which had gone back and forth in the legal scope and culminated introduce some kind of safety in cosmetics. They worked closely with Adolfo with ABC being ordered to pay a compensation, at that time, at the amount Lutz.Then, the commission ended up being taken to the Oswaldo Cruz Foun- to R$ 350,000. Obviously, it would not be covered, not even through the dation in Rio de Janeiro, with the participation of the Foundation staff. This sale of all properties of the Association. As a result, I was appointed trustee group created a manual, never published, a methodology for quality control and would respond with my meager personal assets if something happened of cosmetic products. I remained in the committee for two years. At that to those goods, or in case we didn’t fulfil the agreement, thirteen monthly time, I was part of Sipatesp, as a of Max Factor, I was the industrial director payments of more than R$ 30,000 which, for us , was heavy enough. We of the company, which was part of the board of the Union. I was in charge spent one year and one month paying this debt, with much sacrifice, but, of technical area of Sipatesp. When there were meetings in Brasilia, I went thank God, the Association continued. The last payment was made in Janu- as a representative of ABC, Sipatesp and Max Factor. ABC always took part ary 2002, with the dinner´s prceeds. in these meetings. We increased from 1000 to 1200 the number of invitations to dinner, placing these 200 extra people in the mezzanine at the Monte Libano Club. The goal of ABC with the dinner was not to make profit out of it at all. all revenue was reinvested in the dinner, awards etc. and in that year, excep- tionally, we had to do this in order to pay the last installment. Brazilian Congress on Cosmetology 161

ABC’s Laboratory Of my managements, we can also point out that the completion of courses was greatly enhanced. We released a free course called Update in Laboratory Cosmetology, which anyone can attend, with no prerequisite. There were After that little blow, we began the project of building laboratories, two editions of this course, the first attended by about 50 participants. They since we had a property without use. ABC could, besides using it for its were held at the headquarters of ABC, reformed in my management. The courses, use that space to, in partnership with some associates, get some auditorium was redesigned, with the installation of air conditioning. kind of revenue for its purposes. We did all the work, with its own resources, of the reform, built These free courses have helped to create a critical mass, so that later we laboratories, which are very good, many companies, many schools do could realize our postgraduate courses. And when we released the post- not have a laboratory that we have. Why? Because we did labs thinking graduate courses, we had three simultaneous classes, each with about 40 of a working group with a maximum of two or three students per job, students. A group with classes on Mondays and Wednesdays; another one, everyone participating in the process. Not a student doing and watching on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and the third one, on Saturdays and Sundays. It others, something that happens in most schools. The laboratories were was an absolute success. highly praised in its inauguration, for the conditions they have. They al- lowed us to consolidate our courses because they were the ones who This first course was held with the Montessori College. As it is not an had practical classes, a number of hours rather large compared to other educational institution, ABC has no powers to certify courses, for that we existing courses. had to partner with someone. Our initial concern was that ABC had full con- During our management, the construction of laboratories was an ini- trol of the course, on the technical autonomy and had no worries with the tiative that gave quite a nice result for the Association and I take great administrative and bureaucratic areas. We achieves this with Montessori, pride in it. The laboratories were built during my second term, 2003- which was a small college. It worked fine for about six or seven years, until 2005. We remodeled the house and made the labs, so as they could be the college was sold. The ABC has reached 40% of its revenue from these extended in the future, with an additional room for a future Laboratory courses in partnership with the Montessori College. of microbiological control. Another important fact to highlight in our management was that we Free courses were able to bring an IFSCC president to our Brazilian Congress of Cos- metic Chemists (2003). We represented ABC at the IFSCC Congress, in 2002, in Scotland, and narrowed the relationship with President Angela Janousek. We showed what, effectively, the importance of Brazil was. Then, Brazil really started being noted. Her coming caused the relation- ships to be narrowed, which is something that was later continued only by Dr. Jadir Nunes. But it was in our management that an IFSCC president visited Brazil for the first time. I consider this as being a very important fact since, if in 2013 we had a IFSCC Conference, it is because that is where it all started. 162

English Version Brazilian Congress on Cosmetology in 2003 Board of directors of ABC – biennium 2001-2003 President: Carlos Alberto Trevisan Representativeness When we took over the Association we had a concept that was deper- Vice-president: Luiz Gustavo Martins Matheus sonalizing ABC. Why? The Association was known as the Association of General Secretary: Hamilton dos Santos “someone”, and not as an independent entity with people working for it. First Secretary: Jadir Nunes This is something we managed to achieve, and struggled so we were not Second Secretary: Antonio Celso da Silva seen as the Association. We were someone who temporarily was at the First treasurer: Angel Celestino Lizarraga presidency. It was not Trevisan´s Association. This meant that we began to have greater representation and act on several fronts, with ANVISA, the Second treasurer: Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi Office of Weights and Measures, Fiocruz, universities, because we no lon- Advisory board: Henrique Valfrè, Karla Mantovani de Mello, ger had a customization. ABC has been recognized as an advisory body to João Alberto Hansen, Johannes Juergen Linemann, Nelson Bassoli, ANVISA. That was very important. I mean, ANVISA recognized ABC. This gives an idea of the importance that ABC had. Also, as a representative of Carlos Cruz, Sonia Yuri Yokoto, Luiz Antonio Brandão, ABC, we were part of the Advisory Committee of the Cosmetics Manage- Rubens Brambilla, Luciano Fagliari ment, appointed by the Minister of Health, Adib Jatene, for ten years. In all events we participated in, we always made a point to introduce Audit committee: Miguel Pascoal Vicente Malato, the Association, of having contact with Latin American presidents from Marilene Martins Zampieri, Renato Muchiuti, Amilton Celso Pinterich, similar entities and, with them, a few things began to be made. The idea of making the Latin American Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Mara Augusto, Maria Rita Pereira Lemos de Resende, Science (Felascc) a legal entity rather than an informal one started in Sérgio Antonio Fernandes, Linda Cristina de Oliveira our management. Another remarkable fact is how the ABC and the Regional Council of Board of directors of ABC – biennium 2003-2005 Chemistry - IV (CRQ-4) have partnered. The partnership began in 1985 President: Carlos Alberto Trevisan when the COLAMIQC occurred in Rio de Janeiro. Dr. Miguel Romeu Cuo- Vice-president: Rubens Brambilla culo, then executive secretary of the CRQ-4, who was present to represent the Council at the event, enquired me about my training and found out General Secretary: Hamilton dos Santos that I was a chemical engineer. I wonder if I would be willing to run for First Secretary: Jadir Nunes a seat in the Advisory Council. Once the election was held, I was elected and cosmetics industry now began having relevance to the category of Second Secretary: Emiro Khury Professional Chemistry. The partnership continues today, in the courses First Treasurer: Angel Celestino Lizarraga and events by both entities. Second treasurer: Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi Advisory board: Luiz Gustavo Martins Matheus, Henrique Valfrè, João Alberto Hansen, Nelson Bassoli, Sonia Yuri Yokoto, Luciano Fagliari, Karla Mantovani de Mello, Carlos Cruz, Johannes Juergen Linemann Audit committee: Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Renato Muchiuti, Mara Augusto, Sérgio Antonio Fernandes, Marilene Martins Zampieri, Carlos Alberto Pacheco dos Santos, Antonio Celso da Silva, Maria Rita Pereira Lemos de Resende 163

The Brazil in the world of cosmetic science Jadir Nunes (2005 - 2009) Jadir Nunes Pinto, Milton Balotin, Professor Elza Lara and Professor Hector Panzeri, both from USP Ribeirão Preto, who ended up being my mentors in my doctorate My first contact with ABC was when I attended the “7th Brazilian Meet- years later. ing of Cosmetic Chemists” in São Paulo, at the Rebouças Convention Center , from the 27th to the 30th of November, 1990. At that time, I was moving In 1995, from the 27th to the 31st of August, I participated in my first from the area of Quality Control Research and Development at Johnson & Colamiqc (Latin-American and Iberian Cosmetic Chemists Congress) at the Johnson in São José dos Campos and needed to acquire knowledge and be- Anhembi Convention Center in São Paulo, and from the 14th to the 16th of come better able to formulate cosmetic products; and nothing better than July 1997, in the 11th National Congress of Cosmetology, events organized to participate in the events of ABC. In the company itself, there were several during the management of the tireless president Artur Gradim, with the colleagues who worked at ABC, including a manager of P&D that ended up help of key directors such as Rubens Brambilla and João Hansen. being one of its presidents, the dear Aristides de Carvalho, who made me feel the urge to draw closer to this entity. I must mention a few names to exemplify who influenced me and served as a reference so that later, during the 2000’s, I could walk this path At that time, still an academician in the Faculty of Pharmacy at USP conciliating professional and personal life, combining technical skills and São Paulo, I was lucky and privileged to live with a large and so demanding passion for the cause of fostering the development of the Brazilian cosmet- teacher who had been the first president of ABC, Professor Bruno Carlos de ics science. Almeida, and another emblematic and revolutionary professor of Cosmetol- ogy, Professor David Akerman, who later turned out to be my mentor, during Brazil at the IFSCC the Master program. Professor Bruno eventually became my godfather, be- During the period 1997-2000, due to several changes in my life including ing part of examination board of the Master Course. work in the city of Rio de Janeiro, I ended up pulling away a bit of the activi- ties at ABC. Then, especially after 2002, I began to actively participate in the I confess that the first reason for my approach was purely professional, board along with then president and dear friend Carlos Alberto Trevisan who the pursuit of knowledge, but then living with people who were devoted to always guided me and led me to the biggest project I have been develop- this entity I could see that there was much more than just“knowledge”, there ing for ABC until today, which is the representativeness of the country in the was something fundamental to anyone’s life, and that I could try to simplify affairs of IFSCC (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists). in one word: Passion! Nobody in their right mind, is dedicated to a cause vol- I remember that, when I went to my first convention of IFSCC in 1998, in untarily without passion. This is totally impractical and unproductive. Cannes, France, I was very sad for the sake of the low participation of Brazil- ian assignments presented, and confess that stuck in my mind as something In the early 1990s I began to participate in the the working groups of to be revisited. ABC in the area of Oral Hygiene, under the coordination of Rubens Brambilla In 2002, the Congress of IFSCC in Edinburgh, Scotland, when I attended my dear friend, and I got to know unforgettable colleagues, such as Gerson my first meeting of the Council of IFSCC representing Brazil, we had three posters being presented, but obviously the feeling was that we still needed to have far more, for the sake of the greatness of our country, the cosmetic sector and the technical professionals I knew. And I knew that, with the uni- versities, it would be entirely feasible to obtain much more representative- ness at these events. In 2004 in Orlando (USA), the Brazilian presence was already far more expressive with 13 posters and one podium. In 2006, Osaka (Japan) we won 7 posters, and in 2008, Barcelona (Spain) we went up to 26 posters. Our re- cord to date was in 2010, Buenos Aires (Argentina) where we had 3 podium finishes and 63 posters. At this point, we now occupy the fourth place in the 164

English Version ranking of IFSCC, which we’re keeping up until this year of 2013, when we Jadir Nunes at dinner at ABC in 2007 hosted for the first time in history, an IFSCC Conference in the city of Rio de Janeiro, held from the 30th of October to November 1st. Capacity of growing Continuing my walk by ABC in 2005, I became president of our manage- We received the information regarding the approval of Brazil, to host the ment and the theme was“Empowering for Growth”and our mission, briefly, Conference of 2013 during the IFSCC council meeting, held in Amsterdam in was to foster an increase in training our associates so that it could reflect a September 2007, when the Dutchman Dr. JohannWiechers assumed the pres- not only personal, but also professional growth of this member, that conse- idency of the organization. As for Johann Wiechers, I would like to record here quently, could leverage the growth of cosmetic sector in their own national my great appreciation and gratitude for all that he represented, in this work to organizations, companies, universities and thereby raise the level of quality encourage Brazilian technicians and ABC, in this whole process. Although not of our products and raw materials, also giving more visibility to cosmetic with us anymore, he was a great friend, a person with whom I had the great science, developed in Brazil for the rest world. privilege of living for several years and learning a lot. It is difficult to find words Relevant facts could be listed on several fronts, such as: to describe how much we, from ABC, feel his loss. I think we should reflect on 1 - Expansion and creation of new specialized courses, improvement, what he taught us in their speech, and especially through their acts. postgraduate and even the first MBA in Marketing and Cosmetics, in part- nership with USP Ribeirão Preto, in Curitiba and Equilibra Famec (Montessori Surely, Johann Wiechers was one of the most passionate members from Schools) in São Paulo. Another example was the course Cosmetoxicology, the Presidium of IFSCC, and the President of IFSCC who most traveled, during with permission by CFF (Federal Council of Pharmacy) his year of mandate, to emerging countries, in order to to foster the develop- 2 - Cooperation Agreement between ABC and ANVISA/General Manager ment of the cosmetic science. Including a historical passage by Brazil, in May of Cosmetics seeking a program of Updating courses and expertise in cosme- 2008, when he participated in our Brazilian Congress and toured the facili- tology for servers from that entity ties and laboratories of ABC and gave us the pleasure to spend a few hours 3 - Creation of Thematic Symposia in a one-week intensive format with at a preparatory meeting for our Conference, held in October 2013, having participation of experts from around the world, on key issues for the sector, given us many valuable tips. Johann was a born educator, a mix of scien- such as “Sun Protection”, “Security Assessment and Toxicology and Regula- tist and humanist, with a vision and a dream of placing IFSCC focused on tory Aspects”and“Evaluation of the Effectiveness of Cosmetic Products” the development of smaller countries, of also making major countries help 4 - From March 2008, after the Safety and Toxicology Symposia, ABC small ones, thus developing a very peculiar, striking and forceful style, like has become a reference in the subject and come up today collaborating on “Robin Hood”. His death reflects this well. He was in Asia in Kuala Lumpur, lecturing in associations in the region and was preparing to go to Thailand to attend the IFSCC 2011 Conference, and unfortunately he could not get there. But he died doing what he loved most, empowering and developing people. This was and always will be Johann Wiechers, an immortal one from the Cosmetic Science World, a great friend of ABC. Coincidentally or not, here in Brazil at the end of the IFSCC 2013 Confer- ence we delivered for the first time the Johann Wiechers Prize, for the best assignment on the podium. A fact that excites us, gives us great joy and that will immortalize his image along with all Brazilian cosmetologists. Concluding the issue regarding IFSCC, since 2009, I started to attend the board IFSCC called Presidium, where, since then, we have been heard and can actively participate in the decisions and by the status at the Conference in 2013, I had the honor and privilege of being the first Brazilian to be president of IF- SCC in the period of 2013-2014. I take this opportunity to share here with all technical professionals/Brazilian cosmetologists, this honor and privilege. Feel honored by this presidency achieved by the effort and dedication of all of us. Briefly and chronologically, in just over a decade, we managed to defi- nitely put Brazil in the context of cosmetic science world and we hope that this process will last for many years ahead and that future generations of Brazilians cosmetologists always embrace this cause. 165

events and workshops on how to foster the development of alternatives to tive methods to animal testing. Since I participated in the working group animals in Brazil and institutionally supported important initiatives such as, for preparation of 1st Security Guide of Anvisa Products, between 2001 for example, the creation of the Brazilian Center for the Validation of Alter- and 2003, the issue related to the country’s development towards alter- native Methods (Bracvam) native methods always attracted me. Sharing the same feeling with great friends like Professors Dermeval de Carvalho, Chantra Eskes, Simone Fa- 5 - Out of the technical sphere, our management innovated by creating nan, Alexandre Ferreira, Octavio Presgrave, Vanessa Sá-Rocha, Ekatarina an audacious “ABC Program of Quality of Life”, which fostered in our asso- Rivera, Sandra Coecke, Professor Jose Maria Giannini, among others, we ciates the desire towards physical exercise and sports nutrition programs, started the saga having as starting point a poster that was presented in annual check-ups, cultural programs and discounts at partner companies, August 2009, in Rome, at the VII World Congress on Alternative & Animal such as restaurants, gyms etc. For example, we formed the “ABC Running Use in the Life Sciences. In this poster there was the proposed establish- and Walking group”and had several highly disputed “Soccer Tournaments”. ment of Bracvam, a fact that became reality in 2011. We continued to We also organized several “Thematic Happy Hours” for get-togethers dur- foster this development by periodically performing workshops, seminars ing the year, such as for example, “Pharmacist´s Day “, “Chemist´s Day”and and meetings on the subject in the country. We are also participating in “International Women’s Day.” Alongside, we kept the “ABC Dinner” at the the birthplace of the Brazilian Society of Alternative Methods to Animal end of the year, with the same tradition and grandeur of the previous ad- Experiments (SBMAlt). ministrations. In these projects, I would like to make a special thanks to two people and great friends who have dedicated so much, Angel Lizárraga and Now in 2013 I returned to the ABC board, as the administrative vice- Antonio Carlos Hernandez president collaborating with my good friend and current president João Hansen, and the other officers and directors in the many challenges that 6 - In April 2008, we made a ceremony of commemoration 35 years for lie ahead. So I come to these forty years of ABC with joy, extreme honor and the founding of ABC to which we invited all former presidents for a trib- great pleasure to have participated in this history, and aware that we have ute and deserved recognition for the efforts they devoted to the organiza- much still to do and we cannot feel comfortable with this. tion over the years. In parallel, we also implemented the “ABC Recognition Award”for the best companies in the sector, in several categories, in order to I hope that the new generation of Brazilian cosmetologists continue to enrich the celebration of birthdays of ABC in the month of April. work with a lot of passion for these ideals of ABC, and it can get to celebrate another 40, 80, 120 years and that we, who are here now, may keep our 7 - And in the international area, I believe it was one of the main seeds healthy and strong to be seeded by our future associates and those hallmarks left by our management placement in: putting Brazil in promi- who are passionate about cosmetology. nence, in the cosmetic science scenario, in Latin America and globally, through a strong performance in Felascc and IFSCC. Regarding Felascc, Trevisan and Jadir Nunes in Happy Hour ABC had a very strong performance in its constitution and I had the privi- lege to attend the ceremony of creation of the entity, held in Buenos Ai- res in November, 2008. Throughout the period of my management, from 2005 to 2009, we tried to conciliate the needs and priorities of regional Felascc with the dynamics of events and rules of IFSCC. I confess that this was, and still is, a very big challenge for Brazil: aligning these two forces, “regional one / global one versus Latin America,” but we have a great im- portance on both fronts and we must keep it that way. The value added to our associate is precisely the one of receiving real time all regional and global trends in the scientific and cosmetic area and, strategically, if an associated company has a greater regional focus, it will be able to benefit, whereas the other one with a more global outlook will also be able to benefit. Ultimately, ABC must be active on both fronts in favor of its mem- bers, whether physical or legal. After 2009, leaving the front line of the board, but relying on the full support of then president and close friend Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi, I began to dedicate to another passion, that is the issues related to alterna- 166

English Version Board of directors of ABC – biennium 2005-2007 Board of directors of ABC – biennium 2007-2009 President: Jadir Nunes President: Jadir Nunes Vice-president: Angel Celestino Lizárraga Administrative Vice-president: Nelson Bassoli General secretary: Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi Financial Vice-president: Emiro Khury First secretary: Emiro Khury Technical Vice-president: Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi Second Secretary: Antal Almásy Administrative Director: Angel Celestino Lizárraga First treasurer: Hamilton dos Santos Second treasurer: Carlos Alberto Trevisan Financial Director: Adelino K. Nakano Advisory board: Henrique Valfrè, João Alberto Hansen, Technical Director: Carlos Alberto Trevisan Nelson Bassoli, Antonio Celso da Silva, Luciano Fagliari, Advisory board: Antal Almásy, Antonio Celso da Silva, Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Carlos Cruz, Sérgio Antonio Fernandes, Rubens Brambilla Carlos Cruz, João Alberto Hansen, Audit committee: Mara Augusto, Marilene Martins Zampieri, Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Rubens Brambilla Maria Rita Pereira Lemos de Resende, Antonio Carlos Hernandez, Benefactors: Luciano Fagliari, Sérgio Antonio Fernandes Sebastião Donizetti Gonçalves, Idalina Maria Nunes Salgados Santos, Audit Committee: Aldo Carrato Junior, Antonio Carlos Hernandez, Aldo Carrato Junior, Jean Luc Gesztesi Hamilton dos Santos, Maria Rita Pereira Lemos de Resende, Marilene Martins Zampieri, Sebastião Donizetti Gonçalves Benefactors: Marcelo de Souza Pinto, Roberto Monteiro Evaluation of the Effectiveness of Cosmetic Products 167

ABC remains within ourselves Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi (2009 - 2013) Pinotti and the R&D team, which had only twelve researchers. During my period at Natura, I participated in events organized by ABC, such as Congresses on Cosmetology; we’ve always been encouraged by then President of ABC and Technical Director at Natura, Artur Gradim. In 1996, I had the opportunity to participate in the first discussion group at ABC about rumors of the potential carcinogenic effect of sodium lauryl sulfate, whose work was used by Anvisa to issue its opinion about this theme, and it was one of the first opinions issued by Catec. Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi Occupying the President position Deciding about a profession at 18 years old, when taking admission tests In 2000, the President of ABC was Rubens Brambilla. In this period, the for a university, is a hard task, considering that we have doubts at this age organization of the Brazilian Congress on Cosmetology, headed by João Han- and feel energetic to face the upcoming course. Many university students sen and coordinated by Luiz Gustavo Martins Matheus, invited me to help quit their courses in the first years for not have any identification with such organize the themes, lectures and structure, that was my first participation future profession, an activity to be performed for the rest of their lives, then, in this event I really admired. In the following administration, in 2001-2003, choosing correctly is essential for success and satisfaction in the selected whose President was Carlos Alberto Trevisan, I had the honor to be part profession. When I decided to study Pharmacy-Biochemistry, I already had of the management as the Second Treasurer. Since then, I participated in an idea of the various functions of a pharmacist; I was sure I would love this the following management teams, with President Carlos Alberto Trevisan area when I saw how a compounding pharmacy works. Creating goods from (2003-2005) and Jadir Nunes (2005-2007 and 2007-2009). In 2009, I had several raw materials was something magical. the honor to assume as the President of this special and recognized entity that operates it the cosmetic sector. This position brought me much respon- Then, in 1985, I started to study Pharmacy-Biochemistry at USP and be- sibility in terms of keeping the DNA of ABC, sector qualification, partnership sides the wonderful classes of anatomy and physiology, I was already inter- and ethics. ested in Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology. I had the pleasure to have classes with Professor David Akerman, a reference in Cosmetology. He During the administration periods of 2009-2011 and 2011-2013, we wonderfully told the history of cosmetics since ancient Egypt, mentioning developed many projects that reinforced the name of ABC in the global sce- the green malachite as an eye adornment. In the graduation course, the lec- nario. The first management had the following directors: Jadir Nunes, Vâ- tures and trainings offered during the Pharmacy week gave me information nia Leite, Luiz Gustavo Martins Matheus, Adelino Nakano, Emiro Khury and that confirmed by decision to work in this area. Antônio Celso da Silva. I always said that I “occupied” the president func- tion, but all members were equally committed and able to run this beloved When I finish the course in 1990, I had the privilege to work at a com- entity. During each administration before that of 2009-2011, we could see pounding pharmacy as the manager of Dermatology, practicing everything the effort and dedication of the management to making ABC a strong entity I had learned during the Pharmacy-Biochemistry course. Three years after in technical issues. Then, we kept such efforts and continued the excellent that, I was invited to visit Natura, in Itapecerica da Serra, and my heart beat work and achievements from prior terms. faster with the opportunity to create new products at a national company of unquestionable quality. I thought I would work for some years only at One of the many projects the new management had decided to carry Natura, but I stayed there for almost ten years, because it is a company that out was the increasingly noticeable expansion of ABC in the national terri- creates, it is exciting, with new challenges every day and I had the privilege tory and its recognition as a strong entity and a reference in technical issues to participate in monthly meetings with the presence of Luiz Seabra, Anízio related to cosmetics. This project and many others would require extended dedication of the management. Aware that such work would be voluntary and that many times we would have to share our time between our com- panies and the entity, the management decided to create the function of executive director, which was filled in the two administration periods by 168

English Version Luiz Brandão autographing Index ABC 3rd Edition ing FCE Cosmetique, whose partnership with Nürnberg Messe Brasil was further strengthened to jointly promote and organize Colamiqc and chemist Angel Lizárraga. Such position had to coordinate the innumerous IFSCC in 2013. projects of ABC, reporting directly to the management, a daily presence in the activities and headquarter of ABC. A great entity that has made so much for the history of cosmetics and pharmacy was the Racine Group. In July 2010, during the 20th Pharmacy I had the pleasure to witness innumerous achievements in our administra- Trade Show promoted by Racine, we organized the 1st ABC Scientific Cycle tion period, the first of them during our 23rd Brazilian Congress on Cosmetol- of Cosmetology, at Expo Center Norte. During the Beauty Fair, in September, ogy (2009), with the launch of the ABC Index – 3rd Edition, by Luiz Brandão. ABC participated in an important discussion to warn the professional sector, especially hairdressers, of the improper use of formaldehyde. This position One of those responsible for the sustainable growth of the cosmetic ABC had adopted in compliance with Anvisa’s guidelines. market in Brazil, and for the recognition of its technical relevance, was the strong partnership tripod established by Anvisa, Abihpec and ABC. This way, In February 2011, we were really satisfied with one more project imple- the three entities promoted the lecture: “Seminar on Updates for Cosmetic mented. We had the 1st 2011 Summer Course Edition, organized by ABC in Product Regulation”, held on August 27, 2009, at Hotel Sofitel, always fo- partnership with the Universidade Lusófona (from Portugal) and the Socie- cused on professional qualification and awareness. dade Portuguesa de Ciências Cosméticas. On April 4-8, we organized the In- ternational Symposium on Photoprotection, with 13 international lecturers, Knowing and respecting the history of an entity helps us learn with which definitely placed these symposiums in the global list of high-quality achievements and mistakes and keeping the work and dedication alive of cosmetic events. innumerous professionals that have dedicated to ABC and the cosmetic sector is essential. Following this idea and already thinking of the 40th I had the pleasure and privilege to participate, in June 2011, in a meet- anniversary of ABC, the “ABC Memoirs” project was created in September ing of former presidents of ABC, with the presence of Miguel Malato, Ar- 2009, coordinated by historian Daniel Mafra, who is also responsible for tur João Gradim, Linda de Oliveira, Jadir Nunes and Rubens Brambilla. The the entity’s Research Center. meeting was held to recognize and thank the dedication to the entity. In October 2009, we started a partnership with TRI Princeton, from the In June 2011, ABC created one more regional association in the North- United States, the most famous institute of hair studies, allowing the par- east Region (in Salvador) and in August, the regional association was cre- ticipation of Brazilian students and professionals in courses offered by TRI, ated in Porto Alegre. In July 2011, ABC coordinated in partnership with Lat- as well as the possibility of interchange. Also for ABC internationalization, far, from Peru, the 2nd Latfar Meeting, coordinating lectures and visits to we organized in April 2010 the International Symposium on Innovation, cosmetic companies in Brazil, receiving around 20 professionals from Peru. Research and Development of Cosmetic Products, on April 5-9, at Hotel Bourbon Ibirapuera, with 130 specialized professionals, including nine from On August 2, 2011, ABC was officially invited by the government of Pres- other countries, such as Malaysia. ident Dilma Rousseff to participate in the launch in Brasília of Plano Brasil Maior. As the cosmetic segment has become more and more important for In May, we had our 24th Brazilian Congress on Cosmetology, dur- the economic growth of the country; for the first time, the cosmetic mar- Brazilian Congress on Cosmetology in 2010 169

ABC Administration – 2009-2011 Information exchange Fulfilling one of the main objectives of the Latin American Federation of ket was inserted in an exclusive program of industrial, technological and Societies of Cosmetic Sciences (Felascc), which is to promote the informa- foreign trade policy. Plano Brasil Maior, from the government of President tion exchange between entities of the region, ABC conducted the first event Dilma Rousseff, joined our sector to large industries, such as automotive of the Educational Committee of Felascc: on May 5-6, it participated in the and civil construction sectors, to achieve the plan goals by establishing “Itinerant Professor” project, in the Auditório da Câmara das Indústrias, in guidelines such as the expansion and creation of new technological and Guayaquil, Ecuador. During the same month, ABC participated in Cuba in business competences. Since then, ABC has participated in meetings of the the event that consolidated the foundation of the Cuban Society of Cosmetic Competitiveness Council for the Personal Care, Perfumery and Cosmetic Sciences (SCCC). Product Sector under Plano Brasil Maior, held in 2012 and 2013, discuss- During the 26th Brazilian Congress on Cosmetology, held on May 29-31, ing the sector agenda and work plan, because the entity’s objective is to ABC consolidated a cooperation agreement with Anfarmag to promote joint add knowledge as its great differentiation for the 21st century to innovate, actions that favor cosmetology and compounding pharmacy. compete and grow. On August 30, 2012, Anvisa promoted a public consultation (CP nº 50/2012) that proposes the update of technical requirements for the con- Anvisa’s General Management of Cosmetics promoted on August 19 cession of children product registrations. ABC helped update this directive. the 1st Seminar on Cosmetics in 2011. Around 180 people participated in In October 2012, ABC participated in the 27th Congress of IFSCC, in Johan- the event, including representatives from GGCOS, the other areas of Anvisa nesburg, South Africa, represented by committee member Jadir Nunes, as a and professionals from the regulated sector. The event opening had the member of Presidium (management) of IFSCC, strengthening and advertis- participation of Jaime César de Moura Oliveira, supervisor director of the ing the great event of IFSCC that would occur in 2013 in Brazil. area, and Josineire Melo Costa Sallum, general manager of cosmetics. In ABC and ABAS participated in a meeting at Anvisa, on December 6, in the morning, I, as the president of ABC, and João Carlos Basilio, president Brasília, whose theme was “Sanitary Surveillance and the social participa- of Abihpec, spoke about the national and international scenarios of the cosmetic sector. Summer Course In September 2011, ABC coordinated, in partnership with Universidade Lusófona, the 1st Symposium of Hair Cosmetology in Lisbon, Portugal. In the same month, ABC created the regional association in Ribeirão Preto, in the state of São Paulo. The integration dinner of ABC in 2011 was very especial, we presented a project coordinated with dedication and responsibility by the management, showing the ABC logo update and its new website. In February 6-10, 2012, we promoted in Brazil the 2nd 2012 Summer Course Edition, organized by ABC in partnership with Universidade Lusófona from Portugal and Sociedade Portuguesa de Ciências Cosméticas. 170

English Version tion in ombudsman system: diagnosis and perspective”. In March 2013, the two managements were possible only with the participation and involve- first meeting was held with the group that will revise the third edition of ment of the management and its council members. The experiences that the ABC Guide of Microbiology, released in 2008. The first issue of this Guide this entity enables are priceless and we attempt to keep the spirit of ABC was released in 1998. The organization and creation of study groups is in in all events we promote. ABC remains within ourselves. Once you have a the DNA of ABC and the purpose is to always have many groups and themes contact with it and know its work, the internal collaborators, the voluntary discussed with the sector for information harmonization and update among professionals that donate their extensive technical and scientific knowledge professionals of the cosmetic sector. to ABC, the events, the achievements, and knowing the history of ABC, with- out any doubt you’ll feel attracted to being closer to this special entity and it Finally, to end this summary of all activities ABC has promoted, I would was created to be the place for professionals and companies that operate in like to emphasize that running an entity like ABC was a privilege, but con- this wonderful cosmetic segment. Welcome to ABC. ducting so many projects and having so many achievements along these ABC Administration – 2011-2013 ABC Administration – 2011-2013 President: Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi ABC Administration – 2009-2011 President: Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi Administrative Vice President: Vânia Rodrigues Leite Silva Financial Vice President: Adelino K. Nakano Administrative Vice President: Jadir Nunes Financial Vice President: Antonio Celso da Silva Technical Vice President: Antonio Celso da Silva Administrative Director: Marcelo de Souza Pinto Technical Vice President: Adelino K. Nakano Financial Director: Luiz Gustavo Martins Matheus Administrative Director: Luiz Gustavo Martins Mateus Technical Director: Celso Martins Junior Financial Director: Vânia Rodrigues Leite Silva Advisory Committee: Carlos Eduardo Paes, Dermeval de Carvalho, Technical Director: Emiro Khury Jadir Nunes, João Alberto Hansen, Executive Director: Angel Celestino Lizárraga Luciana Moreno Rodrigues, Sonia Yuri Yokoto Advisory Committee: Antal Almásy, Dermeval de Carvalho, Collaborators: Roseli Insoliti, Simone Fanan Hengeltraub Financial Committee: Antonio Carlos Hernandez, João Alberto Hansen, Luciano Fagliari, Denise Sunagawa, Edson Takechi Nakayama, Marco Antonio Carmini, Nelson Bassoli Emiro Khury, Idalina Maria Nunes Salgado R. Santos, Collaborators: Aline Zopetti, Roseli Insoliti Financial Committee: Antonio Carlos Hernandez, Roberto Jorge Monteiro Hamilton dos Santos, Maria Luisa Arruda M. Batistic, Collaborators: Maria Carmen Velasquez, Tânia Cristina de Sá Dias Maria Rita Lemos de Resende, Mizue Kishi, Sebastião Donizetti Gonçalves Collaborators: Roberto Monteiro, Tania de Sá 171

Partners are part of ABC’s growth ABC’s success story was not written on its own. Along these forty years, strategic partnerships with various entities enabled the carrying out of ac- tions for the growth and recognition in the Cosmetology Brazilian in the national and international scenario. The union of common interests led to the expansion of the range of services provided, in addition to ABC’s position among the most influential representatives of the associative sector Brazilian. ABAS Abifra The sector supplier of flavors and fragrances for manufacturers of For four decades ago, ABC and the Brazilian Association of Aerosol House- personal care products, perfumes and cosmetics is greatly benefited by the hold Cleaning and Sanitizing (TABS) have kept a close partnership. The union various updating activities and training offered by ABC.“Our companies, un- between the two entities occurred in 1979, when the then Brazilian Aerosol like other segments do not require a lot of equipment, but talented teams Association (ABA) began to share space with the ABC on a property in São that know how to manipulate the formulas according to good manufactur- Paulo, in the neighborhood of Pinheiros.The sharing of the same headquarter ing practices and following of the standards of international quality and lasted for nearly twenty years. “We grew up together, advocating the same safety,” says Barbara Lajus, executive director the Brazilian Association of principles of consistency and ethics,”says President of ABAS, Hugo Chaluleu. Manufacturers of Essential Oils, Aromatic Chemicals, Fragrances, Aromatic and Allied (Abifra), another partner entity with ABC. Among the actions that the two entities held together Chaluleu high- Because of this need for skilled labor continues Lajus, “ABC’s role is criti- lights the replacement of chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) for natural propellants cal to our associates, who have the opportunity to participate in various in the sanitizing area. “We started this work in 1979, one year after the types of training, refresher courses and lectures offered by the Association United States. Then we headed towards the elimination of CFCs in the area not only to the area technical, but also marketing professionals, the regula- of cosmetics. It was an intense battle, with much investment in research for tory area, and many other sectors of a company”. replacement.“The CFC is extremely harmful to the ozone layer so much that, in 1987, the Montreal Protocol agreed by the total ban of the use of gas.“We Abiquim anticipated Montreal in almost ten years,” recalls Chaluleu. At the govern- For the chief executive of the Brazilian Association of Chemical Industry mental level, only in 1988, a Decree by the Ministry of Health banned the (Abiquim), Fernando Figueiredo, the cosmetics industry is extremely impor- manufacture and sale of cosmetics, hygiene, sanitary and household scents tant to the national economy not only because it is an industry that grows in the form of aerosols containing CFC. well above the Brazilian GDP, but also because it impacts the positive entire population by providing health, wellness and beauty. “To meet this grow- Another result of the partnership between the entities was the launch ing market and sophisticated, the chemical industry is constantly investing of the magazine Aerosol & Cosméticos in 1978. With a bimonthly circulation in research and development, expanding the frontiers of knowledge and publication, it featured technical articles, lectures, courses, and events, new producing raw materials for increasingly safer cosmetics.”Because of its im- product launches and reviews of assignments. Aerosol & Cosméticos circled portance, the segment requires entities that duly represent it, as ABC does, for twenty years and projected ABC on the international scenario, enabling offering conditions to continue its growth trajectory. the exchange of publications with Latin American associations. Hugo Chaluleu believes that the success in the history of ABC is particular- ly the seriousness with which the body defends the interests of Cosmetology and invests in supporting scientific research.“The result of this work is an end product of better quality. Who benefits from this is the Brazilian consumer.” 172

English Version CRQ - IV Anfarmag Partner with ABC since 1990, the Regional Council of Chemistry (CRQ Promoting the development of Cosmetology, producing knowledge, in- - IV) recognizes the efforts of the organization to publicize and honor the vesting in continuing education. These are some of the reasons that keep work of about 1,500 professionals currently dedicated to this segment of ABC and the National Association of Pharmaceutical Magistral (Anfarmag) the chemical area.“The participation of chemists in the field of cosmetic sci- close to each other. The institutional partnership between the two entities ence is of fundamental importance because the great foundation that these was formalized in June 2012, during the Brazilian Cosmetology Congress, professionals possess is necessary for the development of processes,” says with the signing of a cooperation agreement, which allowed the formation the president of the CRQ - IV Manlio de Augustinis. He adds that the activi- of study groups based on the needs of the sector. ties of ABC, at both the national and the international markets, have served In the opinion of Anfarmag’s President, Ademir Valério, the partnership as support for the great development that the Cosmetology reached in our with ABC is of fundamental importance to the segment of magistral pharma- country, as evidenced by the international events of the segment in Brazil. cies, that in recent decades have seen a growing demand of the population “The forty years represent the beginning of the new period of growth of for the welfare aesthetic. “This type of cosmetic individualizes treatment, the entity, resulting in higher professional training and consequently the and is prepared according to the skin type and in the exact dosage required. improvement of cosmetic science in Brazil“. Therefore, it is necessary that our professionals are always up-to-date with all procedures”, said Valério adding that the central goal of the partnership CRF with ABC is precisely to produce knowledge for the development of Brazilian The Regional Pharmacy Council (FRC) of São Paulo said that the perfor- Cosmetology.”“And this knowledge must be daily applied”. mance of ABC is an example of how an organization can contribute to the One of the first results of the cooperation agreement was the accom- growth of a sector and to raise the visibility of the country, as a reference to plishment of the Meetings for Professional Development, a lecture series a specific area. “Cosmetics are products that combine aesthetics and health, that took place between August and December 2012, focusing on increasing demonstrating not only conceptual changes of beauty, but also the behavior knowledge and new business opportunities for pharmacists who operate in of a society”, says the chairman, Pedro Eduardo Menegasso. For this reason, the magistral segment. the scientific and technological developments in cosmetic products gives pro- fessionals a big responsibility and requires technical mastery of all the skills to ABC SPAS take it. Menegasso adds that “the CRF-SP and ABC share the understanding In recent years, the market of beauty and aesthetic is feeling a sensitive that this responsibility is not limited to compliance with laws and regulations, growth due to the change in the concept of well-being that today goes be- but should be exercised with responsibility and quality, ethics and respect for yond physical health, involving also the mental and spiritual health.“Having the consumer’s right to enjoy safely the benefits provided by such products. It a good appearance helps to make a person feel good. Hence, investment is this common understanding and zeal by ethics and population health that in products and services that make the body healthier and more beautiful. keep both entities close and made them partners in various activities“. “The statement is by Gustavo Albanesi, president of the Brazilian Associa- According to the President of the Council, since its founding, ABC pro- tion of Clinics and Spas (ABC Spas), who note that an accelerated growth in motes technological, scientific and regulation development of the cosmetic the spa market in the last seven years. The vice-president of the organiza- sector and provides professionals working in this segment training oppor- tion, the businesswoman Ala Szerman adds that, because of this expanded tunities and access to technical innovations.“The work done by the Associa- concept, cosmetics have gained great importance, not only in the sense of tion during its forty years, qualifying professionals and working closely with well-being, but also in the social interaction. “These products help people regulators assured the Brazilian population access to quality products.” feel better, therefore, they work better, relate better, anyway, feel happier.” 173

Today, in Brazil, there are about 1,200 spas, and approximately half of the area of courses and lectures,”says the president of the Institute, Assunta them are concentrated in the State of São Paulo. These establishments, ac- Camilo. The Packaging Institute is a major center for teaching and research, cording to ABC SPAS shall provide services for the physical well-being, men- dissemination of information, new processes and technologies in the seg- tal and spiritual person, through physical, body, medicine, holistic, aesthetic ment. “This expertise needs to be disseminated. Knowledge does not grow or nutritional activities. To accomplish this work, spas need to rely on a well- if it is not broken, shared. ABC is our great ally in the task of dissemination”. trained and qualified staff. Anabel Precisely to meet this demand, ABC SPAS signed a partnership agreement Representative of distributors and trader of toiletries and perfumery, the with ABC in 2011, with the aim of encouraging the development of technical National Association of Trade of Personal Care and Beauty Items (Anabel), an- professionals who work in spas. “ABC is a leader and reference in the sector other partner of ABC, is an important source of consolidation of information for in which it operates. It brings relevant information, content and direction this economic sector. To its president, William Woo, the strengthening of any for the market, opening doors and providing knowledge”, says Albanesi. This sector of the economy is also measured by the strength its representative body partnership has allowed a rapprochement between the cosmetics and spa has. “The performance of ABC reflects the importance that the area linked to markets.“This interaction is beneficial to both sectors, because everyone wins Cosmetology earned in Brazil, in recent years.The strengthening of the industry with greater access to information and knowledge”. For Ala Szerman, the joint of personal hygiene, perfumery and cosmetics is directly linked to the respect action of the two entities enriches not only the professionals, “but also the and credibility that ABC has achieved over these forty years always investing in end consumer, which is guaranteed to receive treatments and products that technical training and supporting the national scientific development.” are safe and appropriate.”In her opinion, ABC can be considered the basis for expansion and the driving force of Brazilian Cosmetology. “The organization offers courses that contribute to the improvement of the industry. Without ABC, the sector’s growth would be much lower”. Unifar Racine Group The training and professional skills through participation in courses, lec- tures and other events were the reasons that led the Union Pharmaceutical Created in 1990, the Group Racine is dedicated to the education and São Paulo (UNIFAR) to enter into a cooperation agreement with ABC. Ac- professional development in various areas, among them, the cosmetics cording to President Marilice Therese de Souza,“the purpose of UNIFAR is to one. One of the group’s arm, the Institute Racine, specializes in promoting encourage the development and updating of professionals working in the continuing education courses, crash courses and post-graduation ones.“Cre- pharmaceutical area and ABC experts who can help us achieve our goals.” ating conditions so that professionals linked to the Cosmetology area may Founded one hundred years ago, the organization today has the challenge improve their knowledge and skills draws us closer to ABC. We share the of attracting new members. “We need to monitor developments, to remain goal of building a cosmetic industry based on science”, said the director of always present, but at the same time, we must preserve the ideals that the institute, Nilce Barbosa. guided the creation of UNIFAR. Redeeming history, so it is not lost in a world that is so disposable, is the task of entities committed to the preservation of Today, the institute conducts around 120 courses per year. One, the In- perennial values. ABC is aligned with UNIFAR in this fight“. tensive Course on Cosmetology, aimed at graduates in pharmacy, chemistry and chemical engineering, has graduated 42 classes. “The delivery of the Packaging Institute certificates to the graduates of the first three groups was made by the then Created with the goal of bringing knowledge to the industry, the Pack- president of ABC, Arthur John Gradim”, recalls Nilce Barbosa. Several pro- aging Institute of is another institution that has a partnership with ABC. fessors who teach at the Institute are members of ABC. “The Association is “We have an exchange relationship with ABC by promoting exchanges in formed by professionals of the utmost seriousness. Counting on the recogni- tion of an entity like this adds value to our work”, said Barbosa. 174

English Version Creation of Anvisa, hallmark In the history of ABC The creation of the National Agency for Sanitary Surveillance (ANVISA) Gonzalo Vecina Neto is due, among other reasons, to the commitment of stakeholders within the sector of Cosmetology that in the early 90s, were fighting for the sector to be came, thereby, this market more dynamic. Anvisa was established in January seen by health surveillance agencies in a different way from the medicines, 1999; Gonzalo Vecina Neto was its CEO until 2003. thus gaining greater flexibility to grow. The performance of the Brazilian As- sociation of Cosmetology and the Brazilian Association of Toiletries, Perfumes In the opinion ofVecina Neto, out of the sectors of health surveillance, the and Cosmetics (ABIHPEC) was decisive for the necessary reform in the area. one that advanced most was cosmetics, thanks to the good articulation be- tween the private sector and the state.The state understood better the opera- The former CEO of ANVISA, Gonzalo Vecina Neto, remember that, at the tion of the cosmetic segment which, in turn, also addressed the issue of risk in time, there were a number of requirements from the health surveillance a more appropriate manner. With this, a very solid foundation was built with agencies that were not necessary for the field of Cosmetology, since the risk Anvisa for dialogue with the private sector. Being an entity formed and man- of cosmetics and medicine are very different from the point of view of health. aged by technicians, ABC has a key role in facilitating this dialogue between This governmental stance was a major inhibitor to the market and to the the sector and the sanitary surveillance, in order to protect the health of the growth of the cosmetics industry. He says: “There was a need to promote a population. Today, nearly fifteen years after the creation of ANVISA, Gonzalo reformulation in this area. The sector as a whole, led largely by the action of Vecina Neto stresses that the cosmetic area in Brazil is as regulated and safe as ABC, was very keen that this transformation occurred and strongly supported the most advanced countries of the world, in this segment. “I am absolutely the creation of an entity that could look at cosmetics in a more realistic way.“ sure that the cosmetic sector has been very privileged in that growt. The time was propitious for changes. Brazil was experiencing a moment of transformation, the result of globalization and the economic stabilization. And there was already the idea of creating an agency modeled on the FDA (Food and Drug Administration, the U.S. agency responsible for the control, among others, of foods, drugs and cosmetics), and with enough regulatory independence and political autonomy. As Vecina Neto recalls, the commit- ment of ABC and other entities in the sector was important in order to give strength to the creation of this agency, and then fight for the building of a regulatory framework that was consistent with the risk of cosmetic and be- Recipe for success The union of the strengths of each member of a partnership is the recipe national Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists) in October.“ABC is one for success. Proof of this is the association between ABC and Nürnberg Messe of the main entities in this segment, which promotes the development of the (NMB) which has enabled the Cosmetology sector the sharing of ideas and National Cosmetology through technological, scientific and regulatory activi- professional development, as well as generating new business. Parallel to the ties, which strengthens the name of FCE Cosmetique”, says Ligia Amorim. Brazilian Congress of Cosmetology, NMB promotes FCE Cosmetique, the lead- ing business platform for the supply chain in the cosmetics sector. FCE Cosmetique is one of the most important trade fairs. It coves, in par- ticular, the stages of manufacture, supply and distribution of products and The partnership between the two entities began when Nürnberg Messe services, including, raw material, packaging, fine chemicals, labels and tags, acquired the events business Nielsen Business Brazil, which performed the machinery and equipment, transportation and logistics, processes, quality FCE Cosmetique, and that, according to Ligia Amorim, director of NMB, has control, outsourcing services, analytical laboratory, process equipment, fra- become increasingly strong. So much so that this year, 2013, two major in- grances, valves, sprays, industrial automation, technology and graphics for ternational events were held: the XXI Colamicq (Latin-American and Iberian the cosmetic industry.“Over the years, the Brazilian Congress of Cosmetology Chemicals and Cosmetics Congress), which took place simultaneously with and FCE Cosmetique became the meeting point of the supply chain of this the FCE Cosmetique in May, and the International Conference of IFSCC (Inter- important sector of the national economy”, adds Ligia Amorim. 175

The same language the same ideals Contributing to the development and promotion of cultural, scientific Alberto Kurebayashi signs agreement for actions with SPCC and educational cosmetological sciences, aiming at the dissemination of knowledge, appreciation of the highest ethical and moral standards, and Luiz Monteiro points out that all this work is possible not only because the improving professional qualification. These are the goals that guided the two entities share a common language, “but mainly because we have seen creation of the Portuguese Society of Cosmetological Sciences (SPCC), on ABC, a remarkable example of the spirit of mission and vision we identify founded in 2008. Since the beginning, the SPCC maintains active partner- with. As in the alphabet, where ‘abc’ is the beginning of a fundamental tool ship with ABC, through the exchange of research and conducting courses. for human communication in Cosmetology, ABC is also the start and destina- tion of a present and future oriented progress, development and knowledge”. The SPCC president, Luiz Monteiro Rodrigues,“founding partner number one”, says that since its founding, the Company sought to establish relations with various sector entities, including the IFSCC. The partnership was for- malized with ABC in May 2009, during the 24th Brazilian Congress of Cos- metology, with the signing of a cooperation agreement. A great stimulator of this protocol was the former president of IFSCC, Johann Wiechers, who also had a decisive role in the creation of SPCC. Among the actions taken together, the one that highlights is the advanced training course in Cosme- tology, with two previous editions held in São Paulo, and I Hair Health Con- gress in Lisbon. Furthermore, we established an exchange of research and development involving several Brazilian and Portuguese universities, under the sponsorship of ABC and SPCC. Brazil and Argentina, together for the same goals Providing access to scientific knowledge, promoting the growth and development of Cosmetology, encouraging professionalism in the field of cosmetics. These objectives, which are at the root of the creation of ABC, also guided the founding of the Argentine Association of Cosmetic Chemists (AAQC), born in March 1971. The affinity between the two entities has grown and strengthened over the years, through the exchange of experiences, par- ticipation in courses and exchange of information. As recalled by former President Cesar Tudela, the contacts between the two associations, which have intensified since 1994, have always brought great benefits to the sector in Latin America. According to him, the strength- ening of relations between Rubens Brambilla and Arthur Gradim with Cris- tina Cicconi; Carlos Trevisan with Carlos Pasta and Silvia Perez Damonte; Jadir Nunes with Federico Svark; and Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi with David Sapoznikow, Cesar Tudela and Eduardo Schvartman contributed significantly to the strengthening of associations. Like ABC, AAQC maintains partnerships with the university. In 1994, the entity was appointed by the Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry, Univer- 176

English Version sity of Buenos Aires as the academic unit of the university extension in the area of post-graduate cosmetic production. In 1998, this same university ex- tension agreement was signed with the National University of La Plata. “Our teaching staff of different specialties is required by all universities and profes- sional colleges in the country, for courses”, boasts Tudela. Today, AAQC and ABC are the most important Latin American entities in the industry. “The Brazilian representation stands out also because of the number of participants and papers presented at international conferences at both FELASCC and IFSCC”, says CesarTudela. Analyzing ABC’s forty-year trajec- tory, Tudela says the Brazilian Association, for the sake of its work in favor of Cosmetology, is an example to all societies in the world.“When AAQC became forty years old, I was the chairman, what really moved me. The board of ABC should feel very proud of the organization that it could build“. Industry and technical area in perfect synergy In 2012, the Brazilian industry of personal care products, perfumes and João Carlos Basílio cosmetics had revenues in the ex-factory (factory price, no taxes) of US$ 33.895 billion, representing an increase of 10% over the previous year. This Sinergy growth rate has remained in double digits for at least seventeen years. On The Brazilian sector of personal hygiene, perfumery and cosmet- the international scenario, the Brazilian position is also positive. Third largest ics goes well because it has strong entities representing the industry and consumer market in the world, Brazil is a leader in the category of perfumes the technical area. President ABIHPEC, João Carlos Basilio, points out that and vice-leader in hair products, and is likely to assumethe first place, accord- the technicians are responsible for the creation and growth of the segment. ing to projections from international institutes in 2016. “ABC’s role in the development and pursuit of innovation, stimulating its body members, is critical for us to remain a winner company”, said Basilio, high- The segment is one of the fastest growing in the national economy. But it lighting also the contribution of the Association in the regulatory area.“We’ve was not always so. About twenty years ago, the industry was in complete stag- always listened to and respected the views of ABC due to the technical exper- nation, the market was “shaking”. It was in 1992 that things began to change tise of its members. We discuss and debate in a harmonious way so we may when the Brazilian Association ofToiletries, Perfumes and Cosmetics (ABIHPEC) find a common denominator that brings security for the Brazilian consumer, was granted a significant reduction in the tax burden of the sector by the fed- which encourages innovation and the creation of new products”. eral government, which provided the impetus for the development of indus- tries. Two years later, in 1994, with the arrival of the Real Plan, the segment, which was already on the rise, definitely took off. In recent years, the inclusion of women in the labor market, the increase in life expectancy and access to consumption from classes C and D were other factors that fueled the growth of the Brazilian industry of personal hygiene, perfumery and cosmetics. Brazil also excels in technology and innovation. In the area of hair, for example, many products that are now part of the portfolio of the largest companies in the world were developed by domestic companies to meet the demands of a population resulting from miscegenation, which has a huge variety of hair types. The detail goes so far as companies offering their cus- tomers 25 different types of shampoo. 177

Courses and congresses stimulate scientific production Among the reasons for the success and sustainability of the Congress is the concern with the choice of works that are presented. The scientific com- mittee responsible for elaborating the schedule of lectures have special care in selecting original and innovative papers, which allows the professional development of participants. Because of this zeal, the congress always brings current topics presented by experts from national and international reputa- tion, providing the knowledge and tools necessary for those who want to stand out in a highly dynamic and demanding market as the cosmetics one. 3th Brazilian Meeting of Cosmetic Chemists Courses Almost since its creation, ABC has been promoting the completion of cours- Main forum for debates and update the area, the Brazilian Congress of es, thus fulfilling one of its main missions: to disseminate the technical and Cosmetology is, today, the most important scientific-technical event of the scientific knowledge and to enable professional training in cosmetics science. sector, in Latin America. Researchers and national and foreign scientists The first courses were focused on issues related to cosmetology, but due to the present unpublished works and significantly relevant for the development growth of the sector and the number of participants, the range of topics covered of cosmetic science in Brazil. was expanded and its implementation extended to different states of Brazil. ABC began conducting courses in November 1976, with the Basic Course The Congress was born in August 1979, as a Brazilian Meeting of Cos- of Cosmetology I, with the theme “Basic Topics in cosmetics today.” Held in metic Chemists (EBQC) in order to encourage scientists and technicians in the auditorium of the City Club, in São Paulo, it had 116 participants, who at- the preparation and presentation of works that were to contribute to the tended 14 lectures. Due to the success of this event, in October and Novem- increase and diffusion of Cosmetology knowledge in Brazil. Held in the audi- ber 1978, ABC held the Cosmetology Course II, with 19 lectures. The classes torium of the City Club, the EBQC I had 96 participants and the presentation were taught by highly trained professionals, like David Akerman, Rubens of eight jobs competing for prizes. A highlight of the event was the lecture Brambilla, Raoul Pierre Lambalot, and Henrique Valfrè. given by Argentine Pablo Alberto and Jaime RUBIM Viglioglia on “Cosmetic In 1980, ABC expanded its repertoire of themes with Course Quality Dermatology: scientific and technical foundations.” The two scientists also Control in perfumery and cosmetics, in partnership with the Association of launched during the meeting, the book Cosmetic Dermatology (comple- Former Students of the University of Pharmaceutical Sciences, at USP. Class- mented later by two other volumes), which was, for many years, required es were held in the amphitheater of block 6, the Chemical Joint, in Cidade reading for students and beginners in product development. Universitária during the months of July and August. The impact was so great that in November, the course was taken to Rio de Janeiro. Over these forty years, the event has established itself as the most im- portant tool used by ABC for scientific dissemination. In its latest edition, Summer School class in 2012 the 26th, held in 2012 at the Transamerica Expo Center in São Paulo, the Brazilian Congress recorded the participation of industry professionals, re- searchers and students around the theme“Multidisciplinary Integration Ap- plied to Cosmetic Science.” It was three days of intense update on the news of the sector, with scientific lectures focused on the launch of new assets for cosmetic masterful formulations, presented by experts from Brazil and abroad, among them Professor Howard Maibach, University of California. As in I EBQC, the best works, assessed by a jury, were recognized with awards. 178

English Version In 2012, already with a varied quarterly schedule of courses, with topics lamiqc (name adopted in 1977, with the inclusion of Portugal and Spain), the such as microbiology, photo-protection, quality assurance, ABC promoted the event was conducted by ABC in 1985 in Rio de Janeiro, and in 1995, in São Paulo. second edition of the Summer School, under the theme“Safety and efficacy of cosmetics and dermatology,” in partnership with the Lusophone University of Brazilian edition of the IFSCC Humanities and Technologies, Portugal. Also in 2012, in partnership with the Anhembi Morumbi, the Association began a postgraduate degree in develop- International Conference is a success ment and production of cosmetics, lasting three semesters and 400 hours/class. The IFSCC’s 22nd International Conference, held in Rio de Janeiro be- tween October 30 and November 1, gathered renowned international sci- Colamiqc entists and more than 600 speakers to debate technological innovations As one of the most important entities in the sector in Latin America, in cosmetics. One of the most important scientific events in the world for the contribution of ABC in Latin American and Iberian Congresses for Cos- cosmetics, the Conference, organized by ABC in partnership with Nürnberg metic Chemists (Colamiqc’s) is of great relevance. The Brazilian participation Messe, focused on Boosting Cosmetic Science in Rio and it was presided over is meaningful both in the number of representatives as in the number of by Dr. Jadir Nunes. scientific assignments presented, many of them award winners. This is a historical and unprecedented event in Brazil and of great sig- In 2013, ABC, for the fourth time was the headquarter of a Colamiqc. nificance for the development of cosmetology in Latin America, since from Held on 14-16th of May at the Transamerica Expo Center, the XXI COLAMIQC the 1990s and until the start of the 2000s, there were practically no Brazilian theme was “Sustainable Technology: Innovation In Cosmetic Science.” The works participating in IFSCC events. Furthermore, Brazil has held on to its Latin-American and Iberian Cosmetic Chemists Congress have official support 4th place ranking in the IFSCC, which reveals the recognition of Brazilian sci- of the Latin American Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Science (Felascc), entific production in recent years. The work on the podium won, for the first established in November 2008 with the aim of promoting the exchange of in- time ever, the Johann Wiechers Award, in honor of the former IFSCC presi- formation between the entities in the region. ABC holds the vice-presidency dent, and a great supporter and friend of ABC, who passed away in 2011. of the Federation and is a member of its Education Committee. In 2012, as In order to guarantee the success of this important meeting, the IFSCC’s responsible for coordinating this committee, ABC worked actively for the cre- 22nd International Conference had the Boticário Group as ambassador, and ation of the Cuban Society from Cosmetic Science, held in May. Campo Research, Croda, Seppic, Solabia and Symrisa as silver sponsors, and The first international event sponsored by ABC was the II Latin American AMA Laboratories, CIDP Biotech Brasil, Cosmotec, Chemyunion, Eco Oil Ar- Congress from Cosmetic Chemists (Colaqc) in 1975, in São Paulo. Already as Co- gentina, Evonik, Investiga, ION, Kosmo Science, Lubrizol, Oxiteno, Sensient, Silab and Stable Micro Systems as bronze sponsors. ABC Dinner, leisure time Born from an informal meeting of its members in 1976, the ABC dinner has established itself as the integration event between associ- ates and partners of the Association. Dinner is today the largest con- fraternization of the sector in Brazil, celebrating every new year eve successes - and difficulties - checked in the cycle that is closing. The first dinner of ABC took place in 1978, in partnership with the then Brazilian Association of Aerosols (ABA). From that date until 1983, this pattern remained, with the event at the Buffet La Residence. On December 2nd, 1988, the traditional date of celebration was held at the Maksoud Plaza. As a form of relaxation, some dinner editions were thematic. The history of cosmetics, especially the image of Cleopatra, Hollywood, the magic of the circus and the excitement of the samba school are some of the themes already addressed. From the 1990s on- wards, the Monte Líbano Club became the host of ABC Dinner. 179

Trade shows generate businesses and capital to Brazil The economic importance of the sector of personal hygiene, perfumery Beauty Fair and cosmetic products is attested by the performance of trade shows which are annually held in Brazil. Together, the Beauty Fair (the International Fair FCE Cosmetique 2013 had the participation of more than 600 brands of Professional Beauty), FCE Cosmetique (the International Exhibition of and received around 20,000 visitors. As one of the main important trade Technology for the Cosmetic Industry) and Estétika (the International Exhi- shows of the sector, FCE Cosmetique covers the stages of manufacture, sup- bition of Beauty) produce millions of reais in businesses. ply and distribution of products and services, including raw materials, pack- aging, fine chemistry, labels and tags, machines and equipment, transpor- The 2013 edition of Beauty Fair had 500 exhibitors, representing one tation and logistics, processes, quality control, service outsourcing, analysis, thousand brands, and received 145,000 visitors of professionals from the laboratory services, process equipment, fragrances, valves, sprays, industrial area. The businesses made during the event exceeded 450 million reais. As automation, technology and printing systems for the cosmetic industry. The the largest professional beauty fair in the Americas and second worldwide, Brazilian Congress of Cosmetology is held by ABC during the event. the Beauty Fair gathers the whole production chain of the beauty segment and is in evidence for offering a differentiated content, with emphasis on With the presence of exhibitors from twenty countries, Estétika 2013 education and services of qualification to all professionals from the sector. generated 62 million reais in businesses, 12% more than the previous edi- One of the attractions of the event is the International Scientific Congress tion. The 21st International Scientific Congress on Esthetics, held during the on Esthetics and Cosmetology, whose Scientific Committee has the partici- fair, had 28,000 participants, 4,500 of them were congress members. ABC, pation of ABC. For Hirofumi Ikesaki, President of Honor of the Beauty Fair, which supports the congress, was represented in the opening by its president this partnership values the event, considering the Association’s support to João Hansen. In the opinion of the congress management, the Association’s research and development of the sector.“Science has always been the main support increases the event value, as ABC has an effective participation in focus of ABC”, he says. the development of the technological, scientific and regulatory areas of the cosmetic sector and its professionals, participating and promoting activities Stand of ABC at the FCE Cosmetique that intensify global integration and information exchange, increasing the respectability of Brazil in the international scientific community. 180

English Version Population aging stimulates beauty market The world is getting old. Estimates of the World Health Organization between 55 and 64 years old have twice the income available when com- (WHO) show that the number of people in old age (over 60 years olds) grows pared to young people under 25 years old and in the United Kingdom, peo- in all continents. According to a study promoted by the entity, in 2050, ple between 50 and 64 years old spend 50% more with food and beverage around 2 billion people will be over 60 years old. In Brazil, the population than people under 30 years old. Around 83% of North Americans in old age pyramid is also changing, with reduced base, which records the percentage use e-mail and 50% participate in social media websites. of children and young people. According to data from the latest National Household Sample Survey (PNAD), published by the Brazilian Institute for Mintel’s report also shows that, due to social and financial pressure, Geography and Statistics (IBGE) in September 2012, there are 23.5 million people in old age are working more. In the United States, 54% of workers people in old age, or more than twice the number in 1991 (10.7 million over 65 years old say that they want to keep working, not only because of people). Estimates of IBGE for 2050 show that Brazil will have 215.2 million the income, but because they feel useful and want to be in contact with inhabitants, 30% of which over 60 years old. other people. The presence of people in old age in the labor market has a direct influence on sales in the beauty sector, as competition makes people The reasons that explain such increase in the number of people in old concerned about good appearance. That is confirmed by the 5% increase in age include: improved quality of life, with more medical support and medi- the number of plastic surgeries in the United States in 2010, encouraged by cine, quality food intake and people practicing more physical activities. Mar- the concern about maintaining jobs. ket studies show that many of these people have their own income and tend to spend more, and not to save. In terms of income, the old age market is attractive too. Mintel’s study shows that, in the United States, the market of skin anti-aging products With an eye on this niche, Mintel, an independent market intelligence had a continuous growth between 2006 and 2011, reaching US$ 2.3 billion, company, had produced a study that shows the business potential for the and forecasted to reach US$ 3.39 billion in 2015. In the group of five major old age in the sector of cosmetics and beauty care. This study shows that, in countries in Europe (France, Germany, Italy, Spain and United Kingdom), this 2015, in Europe, the number of people between 55 and 74 years old will be market produced 6.83 billion euros in 2011; the projections show growth of twice the number of people between 15 and 24. In the United States, the 11in 2015, reaching 7.59 billion euros. difference between the group of 55-74 years old and the group of 15-24 years old will be 24 million; in China, 39 million; and in Japan, 21 million. However, the number of old age products is still small, but it involves much technology. Mintel shows some launches, such as hand creams that increase The study shows that the beauty companies that ignore people in old collagen production, help prevent age spots, fill wrinkles and firm up and nour- age are losing a great opportunity. For instance, in the United States, people ish skin; cosmetic products developed for women between 50 and 60 years old, with texture especially selected for mature skin, as well as anti-aging hair prod- ucts developed with a calcium byproduct, which shields weakened hair. There is also a shower gel with anti-aging properties, a hand sanitizer that promotes collagen production and fragrances with extracts that prevent aging. 181

The use of cutting-edge technology is evident in launches with epider- Among the Asian countries, South Korea exceeded Japan as the authori- mal growth factor, which contain DNA repair enzymes to support the prolif- ty in skin care.The country develops products that are distinguished for their eration of new and young cells and recognize and eliminate damage to DNA; innovation and technical excellence. One example of South Korean quality in creams with telomerase, an enzyme that prevent cell aging effects and are the BB (Blemish Balm) creams, whose formulation includes amino acids, stabilizes the DNA structure of skin cells, or in products that contain stem- vitamins and solar filter. They are hybrid products that combine skin treat- cell extracts from fruits. ment and beauty. In 2011, the South Korean beauty market exceeded 10 trillion wons (the currency in South Korea) and it may exceed 14.5 trillion Mintel’s study also shows new products that will be launched in 2015, wons in 2015. One of the segments that may be encouraged is for men’s based on research and innovation.These are body care products that help keep products, with specific lines sold in supermarkets. the flexible skin and articulations, gels, adhesives and chewable pills for the skin, articulations and mental acuity, fragrances that transmit youth image and Famous in Japan, “Moba Beau” (mobile beauty) products may soon ar- have anti-aging additives, as well as pills to prevent hair loss and whitening. rive in South Korea. They are (electronic or not) beauty devices conceived to be carried in the purses. They are face and body care products and many of them provide anti-aging benefits. Effects on Western countries The growth of Asian market will have effects on Western countries in 2015. According to a study conducted by Mintel, the biotechnology-based skin care technology conceived in South Korea will be disseminated in the United States and Europe, with special attention to hybrid products, such as BB creams. Moba Beau products will be sold for prices lower than today. And, for sure, at least one large beauty company will be bought by a Chinese and/or Indian company. Mintel was created about forty years ago, conducing market studies in the area of food and beverage in the United Kingdom. Today, it oper- ates worldwide, with offices in London, Chicago, New York, Shanghai, Tokyo and Sidney. Influence from Asia Asia has around 60% of the global population. China shows quick growth and India shows high levels of education and middle class growth. Until some years ago, China was seen as the right market for western products. This scenario is changing as a result of the government policy of making it a self-sufficient country. Chinese operators learn the competition work quick. An evidence of that is the fact that many skin care brands show clear influ- ences from other countries. Asian companies are creating new retail brands and concepts specifically for the Chinese market. In addition, Asian coun- tries are moving towards western markets, as seen in the acquisition of large western brands by Asian companies. Mintel’s report mentions examples of this new scenario: the acquisition by Japanese Shiseido of North American make-up company Bare Essentials; the acquisition of South-African Darling and the Yardley operations in the United States and Europe (except in Ger- many) by Godrej, from India. 182

Versión en Español Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha (In memoriam) 1973 - 1975 por Henrique Valfrè El profesor doctor Bruno Carlos de Es relevante mencionar que en la Almeida Cunha, titular de la Disciplina reunión del 18 de noviembre de 1972, de Tecnología Cosmética de la Facultad en la que fue nombrada la Comisión de Ciencias Farmacéuticas de la Univer- Especial para la elaboración de los Es- sidad de São Paulo, fue el primer presi- tatutos de la ABC, estuvieron presentes dente de la ABC electo en la Asamblea 62 personas. Y fue exactamente en ese de Fundación realizada el 10 de Abril de domicilio que la ABC «nació» oficial- 1973. Abrazando, en abril de 1972, la mente, en su memorable Asamblea idea propuesta por el doctor José Joa- de Fundación. La primera reunión de quin Peres de Villalba, químico-farma- dirección, después de la toma de pose- céutico salvadoreño radicado en Chile y sión, el doctor Bruno inició su función, uno de los fundadores de la Asociación jocosamente, con la siguiente frase fi- Chilena de Químicos Cosméticos, que gurativa: «La semilla está plantada, el en Brasil, también debería ser creada terreno es fértil pero no está cultivado, una asociación que congregase a los será necesaria una total convergencia profesionales vinculados a la Industria Dr. Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha de esfuerzo y dedicación para que el ár- Cosmética y a la Universidad, tuvo una bol se desarrolle y fructifique. ¡¡¡A partir importantísima actuación en el sentido de divulgar esa idea, difundir los ob- de ahora ustedes serán los jardineros de la ABC!!!» Con esta frase él mostró jetivos y de aglutinar a un importante número de interesados, promoviendo su altruismo y delegó a cada uno la tarea que le correspondía, reservando conferencias y reuniones. Es justo que sea destacado que, en esta «tarea», para sí lo que le era más familiar, o sea, la parte relativa a la organización contó con la valiosa colaboración del doctor David Akerman, su profesor y realización de conferencias técnico-científicas y establecer contactos con asistente. Perspicaz, minucioso y optimista y con su proverbial «mineirice» otras facultades afines. (era natural de Belo Horizonte) supo cautivar a todos y, muy rápidamente, Aunque, sin contar con una mínima infraestructura física y administra- transformar ese anhelo en realidad. tiva, nadie se desalentó, cada uno trabajó arduamente y cumplió rigurosa y diligentemente la misión que le fuera confiada, y así la ABC tomó cuerpo, Aunque contase, por parte del director de la Facultad, con la autoriza- creció y el «árbol fructificó». Finalizado su mandato, el Dr. Bruno continuó ción para utilizar uno de los anfiteatros para las conferencias, sabía que, frecuentando asiduamente la Asociación, participando de reuniones, dando logísticamente, la Ciudad Universitaria no era el lugar ideal debido a la difi- conferencias y presentando trabajos en Congresos. cultad de acceso, pues las conferencias y reuniones eran realizadas después El 7 de junio de 1978 por medio de la Resolución № 251 del Ministerio del horario comercial y finalizaban por la noche tarde. Entonces, contando de Salud, fue nombrado miembro de la Cámara Técnica de Cosméticos, en la con libre tránsito en el Consejo Regional de Farmacia, del cual era miembro cual tuvo una actuación destacada en la elaboración de normas y directivas, del Consejo, obtuvo de su presidente la autorización para utilizar el salón de emitiendo dictámenes eruditos y sustancialmente fundamentados. actos, ubicado en Rua Amaral Gurgel, lugar central y de fácil accesibilidad, Por todo esto, por la bondadosa persona que fue, por el amigo y compa- hecho que se mostró de fundamental importancia y que facilitó la afluencia ñero que supo ser, es merecedor de este sincero recuerdo. de las muchas personas interesadas. 183

Y fue así que la ABC nació... Henrique Valfrè (1975 - 1979) Henrique Valfrè Estábamos a inicios de 1972 y la idea fructificó rápidamente, al punto que, el 12 de abril, en una memorable reunión en la USP, un grupo de 18 pro- En los inicios de los años 70, más precisamente en 1971, la Facultad de fesionales de São Paulo y dos de Rio de Janeiro, decidió por la creación de la Ciencias Farmacéuticas de la USP introdujo en el currículo universitario la Asociación. En aquella ocasión se llegó a un consenso sobre el nombre a ser disciplina «Tecnología Cosmética» cuyo primer titular fue el profesor doc- adoptado, que tendría de diferenciarse de la chilena y de la argentina que se tor Bruno Carlos Almeida Cunha, teniendo como asistente al profesor David titulan «Asociación de Químicos Cosméticos». Esto porque en esos países el Akerman. El hecho fue divulgado al entonces restringido grupo de empresas profesional de farmacia tiene el título de «químico farmacéutico», lo que no fabricantes de productos cosméticos y de higiene personal, entre las que es- ocurre en Brasil. Después de algunas colocaciones, fue aprobado el nombre taba Rhodia (en la cual yo trabajaba), buscando establecer una integración de «Asociación Brasileña de Cosmetología», amplia y en consonancia con la universidad/industria. actuación de todos los profesionales que en ella militan. Se inició así un ciclo de conferencias para los alumnos y demás interesa- El 14 de noviembre del mismo año, en reunión plenaria, en el auditorio dos, invitando a profesionales que actuaban en el sector. La primera confe- que el Consejo Regional de Farmacia (CRF-8) gentilmente ofreció, fue consti- rencia fue dada por el Dr. Raoul Pierre Lambalot (Givaudan), se sucedieron tuida la Comisión, con la misión de elaborar los Estatutos y que, concluyendo las del Dr. Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato (Bozzano), Waldo Perez (Colgate), los trabajos en marzo de 1973, hizo posible que el 10 de abril de 1973, pueda y una dada por mí. ser realizada, en ese mismo auditorio, la Asamblea General de Fundación de la ABC en la cual los estatutos fueron aprobados, elegida y puesta en funciones la En aquella ocasión estaba en São Paulo el representante de la empresa in- primera dirección. Al Dr. Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha le correspondió el car- ternacional Amerchol, Dr. José Joaquin Perez de Villalba, químico farmacéutico go de Primer Presidente y a mí el de Vice. Se iniciaba así la gestión 1973/1974. salvadoreño radicado en Chile, y uno de los fundadores de la Asociación Chilena de Químicos Cosméticos, que estaba divulgando los productos de su empresa. Él El Inicio de la ABC fue invitado por el Dr. Bruno para dar una charla en la Universidad de São Paulo Como todo lo que es recién creado carece prácticamente de todo, en (USP), cuyo tema fue «Los Derivados de la Lanolina». Había muchos participan- nuestro caso no fue distinto, no teníamos la mínima infraestructura física y tes y al final de la charla el Dr. Perez, al saber que en Brasil aún no había ningún administrativa, pero sobraba el entusiasmo y la gran determinación de todo modelo de asociación en el sector de la cosmética, aprovechó el momento para nuestro pequeño grupo que merece ser mencionado: Miguel Malato, R.P. lanzar a todos nosotros la idea de la formación de una Asociación dentro los Lambalot, Waldo Peres, Germínio Nazario, David Akerman, Antonio Skrivan, mismos moldes de las ya existentes argentina y chilena que ya estaban afiliadas Erich Marx y Remo G. de Simone. Cada uno de nosotros, en nuestras male- a la International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC). tas personales, cargaba los papeles y documentos que iban siendo creados. Nuestras reuniones se realizaban, quincenalmente, en las salas de reuniones de las empresas Givaudan e IFF, en los primeros meses, y de Bozzano que, gentilmente, nos cedió una oficina en Rua Álvaro Alvim, en Vila Mariana, que pasó a ser la primera sede, provisoria, con domicilio fijo. Por medio de una extensa serie de conferencias, que siempre fueron da- das en el auditorio del CRF-8, se consiguió aglutinar a los profesionales del sector y constituir el cuadro asociativo que aumentaba en cada evento. Fue también de suma importancia la sólida adhesión de las empresas del sector, que liberaron a sus técnicos para que fuesen los disertantes. Recién en marzo de 1975 es que se pasó a cobrar una módica anualidad; hasta ese momento los gastos, que inevitablemente había, eran prorratea- dos entre nosotros. 184

Versión en Español Asiento de la calle Tabapuã con la preciosa colaboración de João Alfredo Maia (IFF) y de Klaus Behrens, (Henkel) quedó con la tarea de recaudar los recursos financieros y constituir Finalmente, nuestra sede definitiva un fondo suficiente que pudiese viabilizar el evento. La caja estaba vacía y la El 28 de abril de 1975 se llevó a cabo la elección de la nueva Dirección y previsión de gastos era preocupante, ¡¡¡precisábamos recaudar!!!! el resultado me favoreció a mí como Presidente y al compañero Waldo Peres como Vicepresidente, para la gestión 1975/1976. Teníamos por delante una Hicimos exhaustivos contactos con todas las empresas del sector y cuan- misión muy ardua y que exigió el total compromiso de toda la Dirección y de do intuimos un clima favorable, convocamos a una ceremonia, realizada en muchos otros abnegados compañeros. Como primera acción, en el mes de el auditorio de la Federación de Industrias del Estado de São Paulo (Fiesp), mayo, alquilamos una sala en RuaTabapuã, en Itaim Bibi, y contratamos una a la cual casi todos los directores y presidentes de las industrias cosméti- secretaria, la Sra. Edna, por medio día, siendo que en la otra parte del día cas estuvieron presentes, e hicimos el lanzamiento del «Libro de Oro» del ella era secretaria de la Asociación Brasileña de Aerosol (ABA) que ocupaba Congreso que tuvo una excelente aceptación y substancial participación. Por una sala al lado. último, se constituyó la Comisión Organizadora para la cual fueron invitados y aceptaron el Dr. Gilberto Lace Brandão (Bozzano) para la Presidencia y el Dr. Luiz Del Nero Neto (Gessy-Lever) para la Vicepresidencia. El Congreso tuvo completo éxito, con 403 participantes, siendo 93 del Exterior, predominantemente de Argentina (27), de Chile (24) y Perú (11), dividiéndose los demás 31 entre Uruguay, Venezuela, Ecuador, Bolivia, Por- tugal, España y Estados Unidos. Fueron presentados 21 trabajos de profesio- nales brasileños. El éxito de ese evento en el plano técnico-científico fue total y, en lo financiero, generó un superávit que nos permitió la adquisición de un in- mueble en Barrio da Lapa, cuya escritura tuve el honor de firmar, y que sería nuestra primera sede propia. Cena de Confraternización El Boletín y la Revista Me parece válido señalar que en diciembre de 1974, aunque el grupo Sintiendo la necesidad de poseer un medio de comunicación con los aso- aún era pequeño, nos reunimos para fin de año, en una pizzería de Brooklin ciados, que lleve a su conocimiento las actividades de la Dirección y también, en una agradable confraternización. Fue esta la primera reunión social, que más profundamente, las noticias sobre el curso de los preparativos del Con- después se fue repitiendo año tras año, siempre con mayor adhesión de los greso, en octubre de aquel 1975 comenzamos a editar el «Boletín ABCK», en asociados físicos y jurídicos, con distribución de regalos, y que pasó a formar forma de folleto que yo mismo mecanografiaba en mi Olivetti y que Rhodia, parte del calendario anual de la ABC convirtiéndose en la tradicional, festiva gentilmente, mandaba a mimeografiar en papel oficio y grapar. Ese «Boletín y concurrida cena de fin de año. ABC», cuya periodicidad variaba de 2 a 3 meses tuvo 8 ediciones siendo la final en agosto de 1977. Un gran desafío Pero el gran compromiso y desafío era el de organizar el Segundo Congre- so Latino Americano de Químicos Cosméticos (Colamiqc) que estaba progra- mado para el 17, 18 y 19 de noviembre de ese mismo año. El primer Congre- so había sido realizado en Argentina y la delegación brasileña que participó de él asumió el compromiso de realizar el segundo en Brasil, aquí en São Paulo. Todos, de «mangas arremangadas», iniciamos la «cuenta regresiva»: enviamos aproximadamente 2.500 circulares para convocar a participantes y estimular la inscripción de trabajos técnico-científicos a ser presentados. Una comisión, coordinada por Rubens Brambilla y Remo de Simone, quedó con la incumbencia de contratar los servicios de Alcântara Machado, especializada en la organización de eventos. Otra comisión, por mí liderada, y que contó 185

Entendiendo que deberíamos sustituir el «Boletín ABC» por otra publica- El Colamiqc y el Encuentro Nacional ción de personalidad, de mejor calidad y mayor contenido, y considerando la En abril de 1977 fue la elección de la nueva Dirección para el bienio excelente relación que teníamos con la ABA, nuestra vecina de sala, que era 1977/1979, y, por unanimidad, la Asamblea entendió en reelegirme para presidida por el Dr. Claude E. Barbé, mi jefe en Rhodia, le propusimos la hipó- la Presidencia, correspondiéndole la Vicepresidencia al compañero Dr. Klaus tesis de editar, en conjunto, una revista de cuño informativo técnico-científico Behrens. con excelente estándar editorial y de periodicidad regular y que se constituiría En septiembre de ese año, a pesar de haber sido instituido, por el Ministerio en la publicación oficial de las dos Asociaciones. La ABA ya editaba, esporá- de Hacienda, un fuerte «depósito obligatorio» para viajes al Exterior, consegui- dicamente, una pequeña revista llamada «Aerosol Moderno». El Dr. Rubens mos organizar una importante delegación, con 23 congresistas, para participar Brambilla, por la ABC, y el Sr. Paulo Castellari, por la ABA, fueron los encargados del III Colamiqc, que se realizó en la ciudad de Lima, Perú. Sin embargo, solo 2 de consolidar el proyecto de la futura revista y seleccionar una editorial que trabajos de autores brasileños fueron presentados lo que, admitamos, fue muy estuviera dispuesta a hacer la edición a costo cero, resarciéndose con la comer- poco frente al potencial técnico de nuestros profesionales. cialización de espacios publicitarios, que serían definidos entre las partes. Al retornar de Perú y, un poco decepcionados frente a la escasez de trabajos presentados, entendimos que deberíamos emprender alguna acción que pu- Lanzamiento de Aerosol & Cosméticos diese incentivar a los técnicos, científicos e investigadores en esta dirección. Así idealizamos y realizamos, con mucho ahínco, el Primer Encuentro Brasileño de Fue así que surgió la revista «Aerosol & Cosméticos», editada por Edito- Químicos Cosméticos (EBQC), que se llevó a cabo en agosto de 1979. La finali- ra Bastos. El número «Cero» fue distribuido en la Cena de confraternización dad fue la de recolectar una importante cantidad de trabajos técnico-científi- de la ABA y de la ABC en diciembre de 1978; posteriormente, la revista fue cos que, después de ser evaluados por una Comisión Técnica, fueron inscritos ampliamente distribuida a todos los sectores interesados. La repercusión fue automáticamente para ser presentados en el IV Colamiqc, programado para la altamente positiva. Recibimos mensajes de felicitaciones del entonces mi- ciudad de Viña Del Mar, en Chile. nistro de Salud, Dr. Paulo de Almeida Machado, del secretario de Salud del Instituimos un premio de Cr$ 10.000,00 (diez mil cruzeiros) al mejor traba- Estado de São Paulo, Dr. Walter Leser, del director de la División del Ejercicio jo, de Cr$ 5.000,00 (cinco mil cruzeiros) al segundo y de Cr$ 3.000,00 (tres mil Profesional de la Secretaría de Salud de São Paulo, Dr. João Ferraz de Camar- cruzeiros) para el tercero, y «Menciones de honor» a los demás.Y para dar mayor go, y de muchos presidentes y directores de empresas. consistencia al evento, invitamos a los doctores Jaime Rubin y PabloViglioglia, de la Asociación Argentina de Químicos Cosméticos, autores del libro: «Cosmiatría: «Aerosol & Cosméticos» pasó a ser publicada, ininterrumpidamente, fundamentos científicos y técnicos» para dar una clase magistral. La respuesta a cada 2 meses, hasta alcanzar el número 109 en diciembre de 1997, cuan- nuestro llamado no podría haber sido mejor: tuvimos 96 participantes, que col- do fue descontinuada. Me permito destacar que esa revista siempre fue la maron el auditorio del Club de la Ciudad de São Paulo. Fueron presentados 17 «niña de mis ojos» y siempre que me fue posible y cuando era convocado, trabajos técnicos, lo que fue considerado un excelente resultado. formé parte de los consejos editoriales, en las gestiones que me sucedieron A partir de esa iniciativa se sucedieron, regularmente y cada dos años, los y en muchas ocasiones (en épocas de grave crisis económica) asumí perso- demás EBQC hasta su 8ª edición, en 1992, cuando, perfectamente estructura- nalmente la responsabilidad por su edición y por su continuidad. dos, pasaron a tener una connotación de Congreso y su nombre fue modificado a «Congreso Nacional de Cosmetología» y, posteriormente, «Congreso Brasile- ño de Cosmetología». Encuentro Nacional 186

Versión en Español La importancia de la representatividad de la ABC Directores in 1979, Becker habla al micrófono Desde el inicio, mantuvimos estrechas y prolíficas relaciones con el Sin- Dirección ABC – bienio 1975/1977 dicato de Industrias de Perfumería y Artículos de Tocador en el Estado de São Presidente: Henrique Valfrè Paulo (Sipatesp) y el Sindicato de Industrias de Productos Cosméticos e Higie- ne Personal del Estado de Rio de Janeiro (Sipaterj), que eran los únicos repre- Vicepresidente: Waldo Eric Perez Roa sentantes patronales de las empresas del sector. Es importante destacar que Secretario general: Klaus Behrens en aquella época vivíamos un periodo de excepción, por la dictadura militar, Primer secretario: Raoul Pierre Lambalot y que la palabra Sindicato no sonaba muy bien a los oídos de las autoridades, Segundo secretario: Sérgio Marnio Gandra Vaz todas ellas alineadas con el régimen vigente lo que, de una cierta forma di- Primer tesorero: Remo Gustavo de Simone ficultaba, sobremanera, la programación de audiencias o de cualquier forma Segundo tesorero: José Antônio Sabaglia de Almeida de aproximación y diálogo. Consejo consultivo: Afonso P. L. de Carvalho, Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha, Gastão Octavio C. de Lima Pott, Germínio Nazario Siendo así, en varias ocasiones fuimos invitados, obviamente como ABC, Departamento técnico: Jacqueline Gaston Maricourt por el Dr. Jurandir de Castro, presidente del Sipatesp para, en conjunto, llevar a Departamento social: Regina Helena Mussi Paolani las autoridades gubernamentales, principalmente a las del Ministerio de Salud, Departamento de RR.PP.: João Alfredo Maia, José Guilherme Gomes los anhelos y las reivindicaciones de la categoría. Esto hizo que la ABC fuese positivamente reconocida a punto que, en junio de 1975, fue invitada para Dirección ABC – bienio 1977/1979 participar del «1º Simposio Nacional de Medicamentos, Cosméticos e Industria Presidente: Henrique Valfrè Farmacéutica» que fue realizado en Brasilia y promovido por la Comisión de Salud de la Cámara de Diputados. El Dr. Darcy Machado Silva (director técnico Vicepresidente: Klaus Behrens de la ABC) y yo, estuvimos presentes y nos fue dada la oportunidad de presen- Secretario general: Sérgio Marnio Gandra Vaz tarnos al plenario de la Cámara, en el cual también estaba presente el ministro de Salud, Prof. Dr. Paulo de Almeida Machado, el trabajo «Propuesta para la Primer secretario: Raoul Pierre Lambalot Revisión de la Legislación CosméticaVigente». Para el cierre de esa sesión surgió Segundo secretario: Rubens Brambilla la ocasión de mantener un largo diálogo con el Ministro de Salud, a quien le en- Primer tesorero: Remo Gustavo de Simone tregamos una copia de los estatutos de la ABC y expusimos nuestros propósitos y nuestros puntos de vista sobre la situación que existía en aquel momento. La Segundo tesorero: Erich Marx receptividad fue muy positiva y determinante para que se abriese, de ahí en Consejo consultivo: Germínio Nazario, Waldo Eric Perez Roa, más, un saludable canal de diálogo con las autoridades sanitarias del gobierno. Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha, La ABC siempre fue invitada a participar de Comisiones en el área de Sa- Sylvio Pereira de Almeida lud y siempre colaboró. Eso fue corroborado cuando, por la Resolución 251, Departamento técnico: Darcy Machado Silva, Pedro Juarez Joly, del 7 de junio de 1978, el Ministro de Salud designó a 7 técnicos de la ABC entre los 12 que pasaron a formar parte de la Cámara Técnica de Cosméticos, Gustavo Hoff Quirino, Abraham Rosemberg, Germínio Nazario, una contenida aspiración de toda la comunidad cosmética y que tuvo una Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Levy Rodrigues expresiva importancia en la elaboración de las listas positivas y en la reso- lución de problemas de orden técnico y legislativo. Los técnicos de la ABC nominados fueron: Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha, Darcy Machado Silva, Henrique Valfrè, Josefina Mendes, Lais Ribeiro de Alencar, Luiz Marques de Sá y Pedro Juarez Joly, que desempeñaron un papel de suma importancia en la consolidación de las normas de la Vigilancia Sanitaria. La trayectoria Dejo para este ítem final una rápida mención de mí actuación en la ABC, que fue ejercida con mucha dedicación, altruismo y mucha camaradería. Cada cual tiene su estilo de trabajo y tiene su temperamento personal, pa- sible de crítica. «Solo no falla quien no trabaja» lo decía el consejero Acácio, pues bien, yo preferí fallar trabajando que acertar sin hacer nada. 187

Independencia y profesionalismo Rubens Paulo Becker (1979 - 1981) Rubens Paulo Becker la de cosméticos. El concepto de las Cámaras Técnicas era audaz: juntar en grupos de trabajos a profesionales del área pública, de las universidades y de Mi elección a la presidencia de la ABC fue, como mínimo, interesante. la iniciativa privada. La ABC estaba preparada para contribuir con excelentes Yo nunca había participado activamente de la ABC. La empresa donde tra- profesionales para la Cámara Técnica de Cosméticos (CTC). Infelizmente el bajaba, Henkel, estaba muy bien representada por su director comercial, el sucesor de Geisel, el presidente Figueiredo, permitió la disolución de las Cá- Sr. Klaus Behrens. Yo, en aquel momento, era el gerente de desarrollo y apli- maras Técnicas. Yo no llegué a actuar en la CTC, pues ya había sido nominado cación en Henkel, y estaba actuando más intensamente en el área de sani- para participar de la Cámara Técnica de Sanitizantes. tizantes domisanitarios relacionados a la Asociación Brasileña de Industrias de Productos de Limpieza y Afines (Abipla). Otra gran contribución de la ABC fue la creación del área de Cursos y Eventos, que posibilitó un intenso intercambio de conocimientos entre pro- En ese momento, 1978/79, Henrique Valfrè era el presidente de la ABC en fesionales y fue de gran utilidad para los profesionales más jóvenes. En co- su segundo mandato consecutivo. Los estatutos de la Asociación prohibían laboración con la ABA (Asociación Brasileña de Aerosol) lanzamos la revista más de una reelección para la presidencia. Los socios que estaban en la di- Aerosol & Cosméticos, que siempre presentaba buenos trabajos técnicos. rección, entonces, recomendaron a Sérgio Vaz para presidente. Ocurre que los estatutos solamente permitían para el cargo de presidente a profesionales con En nuestra gestión intentamos descentralizar la ABC creando las Regio- graduación en Farmacia o Química. Como las elecciones ya estaban próximas, nales. Fueron creadas regionales en Rio de Janeiro, Curitiba y Porto Alegre. había que buscar una rápida solución. Ahí, fui nominado y elegido. Fue una experiencia interesante, pero que no duró mucho, tal vez por falta de masa crítica humana, pues el número de industrias cosméticas en las re- Ejercer la presidencia fue un ejercicio que me ayudó mucho posterior- gionales nunca puede ser comparado al de São Paulo. mente. En esa función usted tiene que liderar un grupo de personas sobre las cuales no ejerce autoridad formal, al contrario de lo que ocurre en las Al final de mi gestión conseguí convencer a Aristides de Carvalho a ocu- empresas. La dirección estaba constituida por profesionales de diferentes par la presidencia de la ABC. Él aceptó con la condición de que yo asumiese orígenes: de la industria cosmética, de proveedores de fragancias y de mate- el cargo de vicepresidente. Así, yo permanecí más dos años como vice y, des- rias primas, como era mi caso. pués, continué trabajando en el área de Cursos y Eventos. No voy citar nombres por el riesgo de eventualmente olvidar a alguien, Con los nuevos desafíos profesionales que fui asumiendo, pasé gradual- pero, por lo menos, citaré uno nominalmente, ya que él fue el gran «carga- mente a alejarme de la ABC. Como tuve la oportunidad de colaborar con dor del piano» durante mí gestión: a mi amigo Remo de Simone. Remo fue otras asociaciones, pude percibir el claro diferencial de la ABC: ella siempre quien más trabajó para mudar la sede de un lugar muy feo, en la parte baja fue una asociación de profesionales y no de industrias, lo que siempre le de Rua Tabapuã, en Itaim, inicialmente a Pinheiros e Ibirapuera y, posterior- otorgó una imagen de independencia. mente, para la actual sede. Dirección ABC – bienio 1979-1981 Hay que retroceder unos 35 años en el tiempo para entender la impor- Presidente: Rubens Paulo Becker tancia que la ABC adquirió en el periodo. El presidente de la República era el Vicepresidente: Henrique Valfrè general Geisel. En esa época fueron creadas las CámarasTécnicas, entre ellas, Secretario general: Sérgio Marnio Gandra Vaz Primer secretario: Klaus Behrens Segundo secretario: Artur João Gradim Primer tesorero: Archimedes Recusani Filho Segundo tesorero: Remo Gustavo de Simone Consejo consultivo: Carlos Alberto Marques, Darcy Machado Silva, Germínio Nazario, Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Obduílio Sanchez, Waldo Eric Perez Roa Consejo fiscal: Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha, Erich Marx, José Espinheira de M. Mattos, Manoel Caramês B. F. Gouveia, Pedro Juarez Joly, Sylvio Pereira de Almeida 188

Versión en Español Primera gestión de Aristides de Carvalho Aristides de Carvalho ejerció la presidencia de la ABC por primera vez en (1981 - 1983) el bienio 1981/1983. Bajo su comando, la Asociación promovió en Paraná, en 1982, el III Encuentro Brasileño de Químicos Cosméticos (EBQC), con la presencia de 250 profesionales. Por primera vez, el evento contó con una programación científica de tres días. Dirección ABC – bienio 1981/1983 Aristides de Carvalho Presidente: Aristides de Carvalho Vicepresidente: Rubens Paulo Becker Secretario general: Henrique Valfrè Primer secretario: Dionisio Roberto Fernandes Segundo secretario: Almir Augusto Laranja Primer tesorero: Artur João Gradim Segundo tesorero: Darcy Machado da Silva Consejo consultivo: Antonio Manoel Fernandes, Germínio Nazario, Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Obduílio Sanches, Pedro Juarez Joly, Rubens Brambilla Consejo fiscal: Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha, Erich Marx, Klaus Behrens, Laís Ribeiro de Alencar, Sylvio Pereira de Almeida, Waldo Eric Perez Roa Por la proyección de la ABC Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato (1983 - 1985) Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato Al asumir la presidencia de la ABC, en mayo de 1983, hice el siguiente pro- nunciamiento: «Me correspondió a mí el honor de dirigir el destino de la Aso- ciación en el bienio 83-85 y también la felicidad de tener a mi lado a este grupo de colaboradores que deberán formar parte de la Dirección de la ABC. Felici- taciones a todos nosotros por poder contar con esta elite de profesionales». Los objetivos de mi gestión fueron promover un mayor número de eventos, conferencias y varios cursos en diversos niveles; incentivar la participación de mayor número de elementos en los varios departamentos de la ABC; alcanzar el medio universitario, dando al estudiante una visión amplia de lo que es la cosmetología y la finalidad de la ABC; incentivar el interés del área médica der- matológica por las actividades de la Asociación, proyectando, de esta manera, la ABC en el campo de la Medicina; incentivar el interés de las demás áreas re- lacionadas a la cosmética, obteniendo así mayor participación de las mismas. El 29 de junio, la conferencia sobre el tema «Oleoquímica», dada por Rubens Paulo Becker, marcó la primera actividad desarrollada por la nueva dirección de la ABC. El evento se llevó a cabo en el auditorio del Club Transat- lántico, en São Paulo. En los días 25 y 26 de agosto, la ABC realizó una serie de conferencias en la Facultad de Farmacia de Araraquara, para la Semana 189

de Estudios de aquella institución, con el fin de aproximar la ABC a la cate- El 14 y 15 de octubre, la ABC fue invitada a participar de la Conferencia goría estudiantil.Y, en los días 23, 25 y 30 de agosto fue realizado el curso «El de la IICCI (International Information Center of Cosmetic Industry), que fue uso de microcomputadores en el control de calidad y desarrollo de productos realizada en Buenos Aires. Durante el evento, Hamilton dos Santos hizo la cosméticos», bajo la orientación del profesor Wolf Roland, de Johnson & Jo- presentación de una propuesta para la abolición del registro previo de pro- hnson. Otra conferencia – «Tecnología de los perfumes» – fue realizada el ductos cosméticos. La IICCI era una entidad internacional que reunía las cá- 28 de septiembre, dada por Archimedes Recusani Filho. maras y sindicatos industrias que representan el interés de la industria cos- mética en varios países, con la finalidad de divulgar las informaciones de las Del 23 al 29 de septiembre, se realizó en Cartagena, Colombia, el VI legislaciones nacionales, y zonales internacionales relacionadas al control Colamiqc. Dos trabajos brasileños fueron premiados. «Potencialidad de sanitario, mercado, ética industrial, comercial, etc., de este segmento econó- utilización, en cosméticos, de la naftoquinona encontrada en Serragem do mico. Esa Conferencia tuvo por objetivo la actualización del conocimiento de Ipê», de Manoel Caramês, obtuvo el primer lugar entre los trabajos referen- las legislaciones internacionales y estuvo abierta también a representantes tes a nuevas materias primas. En cuanto al «Estudio comparativo entre la de países no miembros de la IICI. sensibilidad de Staphylococus aureus a propóleos y antibióticos», del prof. Edward Henryk Szewczak, fue distinguido con la mención de honor en la Del 16 al 19 de octubre, por primera vez, la ABC presentó el trabajo en misma categoría. El resultado obtenido en ese evento fue muy significativo el Congreso de la IFSCC, bajo el título «Potencialidades de utilización del La- para la ABC. A lo largo de las seis ediciones del Colamiqc, por primera vez, pachol en cosméticos – Parte II: evaluación comparativa entre el Lapachol representantes brasileños fueron distinguidos con tal distinción. natural y sintético en tintura de cabello», de Manoel Caramês y Daniel Ba- rreto. El 22 de noviembre, el Dr. Sérgio Marnio Gandra Vaz dio la conferencia El 18 de octubre, fue firmado el contrato con ASJ Publicidade e Artes Grá- «Estrategia de mercado y posicionamiento de las marcas». ficas LTDA. que quedó como responsable por la edición y difusión de la revista Aerosol & Cosméticos. El 23 de noviembre, representando la ABC, fui recibido Cerramos las actividades del año con la cena ABC/ABA. En 1984, hicimos por el coordinador del SNVS (Servicio Nacional deVigilancia Sanitaria), Dr. Luiz los preparativos para el VII Colamiqc, que se desarrollaría del 13 al 17 de Gonçalves Paulo, para la presentación de trabajos preparados por la Asociación octubre de 1985, en Rio de Janeiro. En 1985, la ABC se afilió a la IICCI, repre- discurriendo sobre el proceso de registro de producto cosmético. El 28 de no- sentado a la industria brasileña, ya que los sindicatos de la industria tenían viembre, Hamilton Santos dictó la conferencia «Comparativo entre Legislación limitaciones legales para participar de entidades extranjeras. Brasileña y otros países de América Latina». El 9 de diciembre, realizamos la cena ABC/ABA. Merece registro, también, que en el año de 1983, una comisión Dirección ABC – bienio 1983-1985 técnica de la ABC, coordinada por el ingeniero Carlos Alberto Trevisan, elaboró Presidente: Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato el Manual de Buenas Normas de Fabricación de Productos Cosméticos. Vicepresidente: Remo Gustavo de Simone Entre marzo y abril de 1984, concretamos la adquisición de la nueva sede Secretario general: Archimedes Recusani Filho de la ABC, en Rua Ana Catharina Randi, 25. Un voto de elogio para el señor Primer secretario: Anna Maria Marconccini Remo de Simone, nuestro vicepresidente, que contribuyó con una valiosa Segundo secretario: Hamilton dos Santos colaboración para la adquisición de esa sede. También en ese periodo, el Primer tesorero: Carlos Alberto Trevisan Grupo de Trabajo de la ABC promovió la actualización de las listas de ingre- Segundo tesorero: Waldo Eric Perez Roa dientes permitidos en los productos cosméticos, con excelente repercusión en el Servicio Nacional de Vigilancia Sanitaria (SNVS). Consejo consultivo: Aristides de Carvalho, Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha, Darcy Machado da Silva, Henrique Valfrè, Rubens Brambilla, Del 3 al 29 de mayo se realizó el II «Curso básico de Cosmetología» en la ABC. Entre mayo y junio, la ABC colaboró con la comisión consultiva en toxico- Rubens Paulo Becker, Sérgio Marnio Gandra Vaz logía, con su Grupo de Trabajo que realizó la revisión de las listas de ingredien- Consejo fiscal: Dionisio Roberto Fernandes, tes aprobados para cosméticos. En junio, recibimos una carta de Allured Publis- Erich Marx, Germínio Nazario, Klaus Behrens, hing Co., de los Estados Unidos, editores de la mundialmente conocida revista Pedro Juarez Joly, Sylvio Pereira de Almeida «Cosmetics & Toiletries», interesados en recibir regularmente las ediciones de Representantes regionales: Celeyde Maria, «Aerosol & Cosméticos», sugiriendo incluso, una permuta de suscripciones. Borgatti de Barros (MG), Carlos Cruz, Miguel Gellart, En agosto, la ABC promovió el IV EBQC (Encuentro Brasileño de Químicos Francisco Persil, Jacobus Visser (PR), Cosméticos), evento realizado en Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais. De manera Carlos Alberto C. Galindo (PE), concomitante al evento, la Asociación promovió también el I Seminario de Cosmetología Aplicada. Paulo Botherel, Manoel Caramês de B. L. F. de Gouveia, Obduílio Sanches (RJ), Salamão Benjoya, Geraldine Tisser, Lovois Miguel (RS) 190

Versión en Español El gran desafío Artur João Gradim (1985 - 1987) Gradim in 1985 Alta sinergia Como primera medida, considero esta extensa jornada de cinco gestio- El grupo constituido para la gestión 1985-1987 alcanzó, desde el inicio, nes no consecutivas al frente de la ABC, junto a todos los compañeros con alta sinergia para el trabajo a ser desarrollado. Contábamos, en su mayor quienes tuve el honor de compartir, como el gran desafío de mi vida profe- parte, con profesionales experimentados, con vivencia en gestiones ante- sional, teniendo la seguridad de haber contribuido con lo mejor que tenía- riores, entre ellos los fundadores de la ABC, como Henrique Valfrè (Valmari), mos para ofrecer de modo de merecer la confianza depositada por nuestros Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato (Revlon/Bozzano) y Remo Gustavo de Si- asociados, colaboradores y amigos. mone (H&R), dos presidentes de gestiones anteriores, Rubens Paulo Becker (Henkel) y Aristides de Carvalho (Johnson) en un selecto grupo de dirigentes En ese momento, al igual que varias gestiones que nos antecedieron, con sólida formación técnica en el área, representando a los fabricantes de nuestro país padecía de una crisis económica crónica con índices inflacio- productos finales y de materias primas. Cerrando el equipo, un representan- narios alarmantes. Vivimos una época en la cual las condiciones de acceso te del área oficial, en nombre del Instituto Adolfo Lutz (Dr. Germínio Nazario) a la información, no imaginables en los días actuales por grande parte de y el catedrático de la Facultad de Ciencias Farmacéuticas de la USP, nuestro nuestros jóvenes asociados. Teléfono fijo, télex, fotocopiadora y carta, eran primer presidente (Dr. Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha). los accesos disponibles para comunicación, considerando también que una llamada a otro Estado o al Exterior podría, dependiendo del lugar, tomar Frente al cuadro económico inestable en el País, viabilizamos exitosamen- algún tiempo para ser realizada. Internet abierta, ni pensarlo, o mejor, ni te nuestro primer gran desafío, la realización del VII Colamiqc (Congreso Lati- imaginarlo, nada de notebooks. En nuestras empresas teníamos las infor- no Americano e Ibérico de Químicos Cosméticos), conquistado para Brasil por maciones almacenadas en CPDs en salas heladas y aisladas, Handbooks, la gestión anterior en Cartagena (Colombia) en ocasión de la edición de este libros, revistas técnicas, anales de congresos nacionales e internacionales, evento con apoyo directo de las asociaciones de Argentina y Chile. Realizado catálogos y legajos de nuestros proveedores, informes técnicos de las ma- en la ciudad de Rio de Janeiro, en el imponente Copacabana Palace y bajo la trices de nuestras empresas, eran nuestro principal arsenal de investigación. coordinación general del compañero Hamilton dos Santos, en ese momento representante de Avon ante la ABC, contamos con la presencia de 650 congre- Las conferencias dadas por experimentados técnicos locales y experts sistas de once países Latinoamericanos, Europa y Estados Unidos, 27 trabajos del Exterior, cuando visitaban a sus empresas, eran reclutados y fueron, presentados, siendo 9 brasileños, cuyo detalle completo consta en los anales desde la fundación de la ABC, nuestra principal moneda de cambio junto del evento. El panel «La enseñanza de la Cosmetología en América Latina» con nuestros asociados junto con nuestra publicación mensual «Aerosol & contó con representantes de todas las delegaciones presentes y de la IFSCC, Cosméticos». Nuestra biblioteca, que siempre fue motivo de orgullo por el cuyo resultado presentó direcciones y delineamientos para el incremento de la conjunto de publicaciones específicas en cosméticos, era alimentada por las enseñanza de la cosmetología en Brasil y demás países presentes. donaciones de empresas fabricantes de productos finales y proveedores, que desde siempre contribuyeron. Las sociedades científicas internacionales del La tradicional colaboración con el Sipatesp (Sindicato de Industria de Per- primer mundo también colaboraron mucho para nuestro acervo, como lo fumería y Artículos deTocador en el Estado de São Paulo), entidad patronal del siguen haciendo hasta el presente, ahora, de forma electrónica más rápida y sector, junto con el Sipaterj (Sindicato de Industria de Perfumerías y Artículos actual, en su mayoría online. de Tocador de Rio de Janeiro), de la Asociación Brasileña de Aerosol, del Con- sejo Regional de Química – São Paulo, del Consejo Regional de Farmacia del Estado de São Paulo destacaron su presencia en el evento así como también el especial apoyo de la Secretaría de Vigilancia Sanitaria vinculada al Ministerio de la Salud, por medio de su División de Cosméticos (Dicop) compusieron la mesa en la ceremonia de apertura. Nuestros patrocinadores Croda, Hoechst (Clariant) y Henkel (Cognis) aseguraron los eventos sociales del Congreso. En ese momento, un hecho singular ocurrió en vísperas del evento. Fren- te a las dificultades económicas para la llegada de los técnicos de SVS-Dicop, dirigido en la oportunidad por el Dr. Luiz Felipe Moreira Lima, apelamos al secretario, que «coincidentemente» era hijo del ministro de aeronáutica, ha- ciendo una solicitud extrema para la llegada de todos, bajo el argumento de 191

VII COLAMIQC «Aerosol & Cosméticos» publicaba en su edición de julio/agosto dos tra- bajos que reflejaban el avance y actualización de la cosmetología nacional. la importancia de los temas abordados, apoyada por la Dra. Suely Bordalo, directora de la división cosméticos. El primero, «Práctica Industrial de Combate a los Contaminantes Micro- bianos en Cosméticos», elaborado por el recordado Antonio Celso Sampaio, Para nuestra sorpresa vinieron todos de acuerdo a nuestras expectativas, en ese momento, gerente técnico de Natura, repetido en la regional de Porto salvo por la forma cómo vinieron. En un avión de la FAB (Fuerza Aérea Brasile- Alegre/RS, en el cual ser abordaba la preocupación del contenido microbio- ña) preparado para el transporte de paracaidistas. Aunque algo temerosos por lógico de nuestros productos. El segundo, «Silicona, un nuevo concepto en la aventura, todos participaron del evento, pero solamente uno retornó a Brasilia Cosméticos» presentado por Elizabeth Elias, marcaba el inicio a esa genera- en la misma aeronave, habiendo los demás retornado a Brasilia vía convencional. ción de productos en Brasil, principalmente en el área capilar. Heinz Eiermann, director de la división de cosméticos de Food, Drug No escapando de nuestros orígenes, la revista comenzó ese año la «Sec- Administration (FDA) de los Estados Unidos, fue uno de los disertantes ma- ción Espacio Académico», destinado a la publicación de trabajos de interés gistrales – habló sobre a legislación de cosméticos. En la semana siguiente científico en el área de la cosmetología y sus insumos para universitarios y al Colamiqc, la ABC resolvió capitalizar la presencia de visitante tan ilustre y en cursos de maestría y doctorados, así como también de sus orientadores. promovió un coctel en la Fiesp, invitando a asociados e industriales del sector de cosméticos. El cónsul americano en São Paulo, invitado, también acudió. Reglamentación técnica Con un escenario económico nacional igualmente preocupante e incier- Heinz Eiermann tenía una relación especial con Brasil: trabajó en Jo- to, y con el mismo éxito alcanzado en todas las ediciones anteriores, realiza- hnson & Johnson, en São Paulo, antes de ir a los Estados Unidos; tenía pa- mos en 1986 el V Encuentro Nacional de Químicos Cosméticos y el II Semina- rientes viviendo aquí; y hablaba muy bien el portugués. Falleció en agosto rio de Estética y Cosmética Aplicada con la participación de 536 congresistas de 2012, con 88 años. marcando su vuelta a São Paulo, además de la II Exposición de Productos y Equipamientos para el Área Cosmética y nos dedicamos, por medio de las co- En el primero semestre de 1986 realizamos la segunda edición del exitoso misiones técnicas, a los litigios, principalmente en la reglamentación técnica y aguardado Curso Básico de Cosmetología, destinado a los principiantes en el que requería actualizaciones, ya con vistas a lo practicado por la Comunidad área que, como ejemplo de la edición anterior, abordaba en charlas específicas Europea y que, posteriormente, Brasil y, después, el Mercosur, usarían como por tipo de producto, una visión general de la historia, reglamentación aplica- fundamentación para su reglamentación, buscando aproximarse a la legis- da vigente, formulaciones, producción y controles industriales permitiendo en lación internacional, incorporando, también, a la practicada por los Estados cada módulo un panorama técnico, actualizado y objetivo del tema. En ese año, Unidos, teniendo en cuenta que el Mercosur tenga la representación predo- el evento fue también dado, por primera vez, en una regional. Le correspondió minante de esos mercados que poseen el liderazgo científico y tecnológico. a Minas Gerais organizar el evento con el mismo éxito alcanzado en Sampa. La ABC, en colaboración con el Sipaterj, participó del grupo de trabajo que inició la primera compilación de productores nacionales de materias Paralelamente, por medio de las Comisiones de Trabajo, el incansable primas para cosméticos buscando la publicación denominada «Compendio grupo actuaba con su valiosa contribución en los trabajos de actualiza- Brasileño de Ingredientes Cosméticos», que sería una versión nacional au- ción de la legislación vigente, pudiendo ese año lograr la actualización y torizada del libro de la CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association), creación de nuevas directivas técnicas, por ejemplo de la Resolución Nº 22 que, por la dificultad operativa y recursos, solamente sería viable diez años (09/09/86), que establecía la nueva forma para petición de registros en la después, por medio de la singular dedicación y capacidad de nuestro queri- Dicop, y el primer listado actualizado y específico de productos después de do Luiz Brandão en la publicación del Índex ABC. la publicación en el Decreto 79094/77. En el área del gobierno, vivíamos en conflicto en lo que se refería a algu- nos productos de nuestra industria, por ejemplo de los protectores solares La actividad de las regionales fue intensa en ese periodo llevando el co- que aunque de reconocida esencialidad por el área de la salud, eran penali- nocimiento de sus disertantes a los estudiantes, profesionales, profesores y zados por el área económica del gobierno con un IPI de 77% que inviabiliza- empresarios presentes. ba la adquisición por parte de los consumidores de manera amplia en este país tropical con 8000 kilómetros de playas. Bajo un escenario político igualmente incierto y preocupante con rela- ción al futuro, con la muerte del presidente electo Tancredo Neves el 21 de abril de 1985, realizamos el V Encuentro Nacional de Químicos Cosméticos, 192

Versión en Español con 530 participantes, y el II Seminario de Cosmética Aplicada, que registró Dirección ABC – bienio 1985-1987 230 participantes. Innovamos en esa edición con la introducción de paneles de relevancia para el momento nacional, por ejemplo el «El Empresario, el Presidente: Artur João Gradim Técnico y el Contribuyente», «Protección del Consumidor», «Mercado Ex- Vicepresidente: Henrique Valfrè terno» y nuestra interfaz directa con los asuntos directos relacionados a la Secretario general: Hamilton dos Santos Vigilancia Sanitaria. La «Exposición de Productos y Equipamientos» para el Primer secretario: Mário Jovelino Del Nunzio sector fue un éxito siguiendo el ejemplo de sus ediciones anteriores. Segundo secretario: Alberto Rosenvald Primer tesorero: Carlos Alberto Trevisan Habiendo vivido una intensa actividad de interés del sector y de nuestros Segundo tesorero: Miguel De Bellis asociados, en ese bienio realizamos, en colaboración con la ABA (Asociación Consejo consultivo: Aristides de Carvalho, Brasileña de Aerosol), el 1º Campeonato de Fútbol de Salón ABA y ABC, ganado Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha, Germínio Nazario por la empresa Aquatec. Contamos con la participación de doce equipos repre- Consejo fiscal: Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, sentando empresas de productos finales y de proveedores, lo que permitió una Remo Gustavo de Simone, Rubens Paulo Becker, convivencia amistosa y saludable, como nuestra cena de confraternización. José Manoel de Aboim Inglês, Nuri Radmilovick Rovira, Orlando Sabadim, Sérgio Marnio Gandra Vaz, En 1997, reconocida por su actividad de fomentar la enseñanza, el de- Vera Lúcia Ferreira de Matos, Anna Maria Marconccini sarrollo científico y tecnológico de la cosmetología en Brasil, la IFSCC otorgó Representantes regionales: Roberto Papov (PR), a la ABC el premio «Lester Conrad» por la presentación del mejor proyecto Professor Lovois Miguel (RS), Ricardo Pimenta (MG), Elaine Brenner (RJ) educativo con foco científico para sus asociados. Segunda gestión Aristides de Carvalho (1987 - 1989) Aristides en el centro de la foto en elVI Encuentro Brasileño de Químicos Cosméticos Dirección ABC – bienio 1987/1989 Aristides de Carvalho ejerció su segundo mandato al frente de la ABC en Presidente: Aristides de Carvalho el bienio 1987/1989. En su gestión fue realizado, en Ceará, en octubre de Vicepresidente: Miguel Gellart Krigsner 1988, el VI Encuentro Brasileño de Químicos Cosméticos (EBQC) y el III Semi- Secretario general: Márcio Chiaratto nario de Cosmetología Aplicada. Más de 500 participantes acompañaron las Primer secretario: José Eduardo Libertuccio conferencias y presentación de trabajos. Por otra parte, la ABC ofreció tres Segundo secretario: Edson Dalton Raposo módulos de cursos en el área de cosmética aplicada buscando el mejora- miento de los beneficios y de la calidad de los productos para el consumidor. Primer tesorero: Rodiney Jould Segundo tesorero: Cristina Maria dos Santos Consejo consultivo: Artur João Gradin, Henrique Valfrè, Remo Gustavo de Simone, Rubens Brambilla, Sylvio Pereira de Almeida, Carlos Cruz, Sérgio Marnio Gandra Vaz, Bruno Carlos de Almeida Cunha Consejo fiscal: Pedro Juarez Joly, Josefina Mendes, Antonio Celso Sampaio, Maria Antonia Salermo, Rene Roman Betkouliski, Claude Edward Barbé Directores regionales: Ricardo Pimenta (MG), Roberto Papov (PR), Artur Conrado Fontoura (RJ), Liane Helena S. Ferreira (RS), José Oswaldo B. Carioca (NE) 193

Una etapa más de trabajo Artur João Gradim (1989 - 1991) Artur João Gradim fiscalización (IPENs) relacionado a su control. Firmadas por el presidente del In- metro, en ese momento el Dr. Massao Ito, esas normas guiaron al sector hasta la La dirección elegida para el bienio 1989-1991 asumió la ABC en agosto adopción de referencias internacionales, momento de la unificación regulatoria de 1989 por medio de un traspaso de bastón de manera cordial y amistosa, al respecto del Mercosur. Ese trabajo igualmente permitió la aproximación del recibida del Dr. Aristides de Carvalho y equipo.Tuvimos el bautismo de fuego sector productivo al órgano normalizador (Inmetro) y los de fiscalización (IPENs) diez días después que hayamos tomado posesión. Un ómnibus descontrola- en cuanto a las metodologías aplicadas, sin la visión de villanos y sheriffs. do destruyó completamente el auditorio de la ABC/ABA, sin víctimas que la- mentar. Realizamos nuestras reuniones en el espacio cedido por el Sipatesp La aceleración del consumo en ese periodo permitió a nuestras empre- y casi un año después reinauguramos nuestro espacio. sas (todas) vender lo que producían, incluso reducidas, muchas veces, por el régimen de cuotas de importación implementado por la política económica Ya en septiembre tuvimos nuestro segundo desafío, esta vez ante los órga- del gobierno. Los insumos, principalmente los de envases, fueron escasean- nos de metrología, en el área de control y fiscalización de los productos preme- do, generando pérdidas de ventas y acelerando la inflación. Fue un año eco- didos. Los productos fabricados por el sector no se adecuaban a la Resolución nómicamente engañoso una vez más. nº 11 Conmetro (Consejo Nacional de Metrología y Normalización Industrial), la cual fijaba criterios de indicación cuantitativa para comercialización de esos En septiembre, el SNVS (Servicio Nacional deVigilancia Sanitaria) publicó la productos, no reflejando las particularidades y tolerancias existentes, lo que innovadora Resolución nº 15 que, entre otras disposiciones, clasificaba los pro- acarrearía inevitables actas a sus fabricantes. En colaboración con el Sipatesp ductos de HPPC en dos categorías, en cuanto al nivel de riesgo para los consu- (Sindicato de Industrias de Perfumería y Artículos de Tocador del Estado de São midores, así como también establecía la inclusión de la composición cualitativa Paulo) presidido por el recién nombrado Sr. João Carlos Basilio da Silva, que nos del producto en el rótulo, en lengua portuguesa. Iniciábamos, a partir de esa delegó la coordinación técnica de los trabajos, apoyado por el Sipaterj (Sindicato publicación, una nueva era en la reglamentación de los productos cosméticos, de Industrias de Perfumería y Artículos deTocador de Rio de Janeiro), formamos incluso con la constitución de una comisión asesora para su reglamentación. un singular grupo de trabajo de notorio saber en la materia representando a las tres entidades, además del órgano oficial, representado por la Dimel (División En ese año, del lado político, veinte años después de la última elección de Metrología Legal) del Inmetro (Instituto Nacional de Metrología y Calidad directa para presidente, iríamos a vivir la disputa entre Luiz Inácio da Silva Industrial) dirigida por el Dr. Sérgio Balerini y dirigido por la Dra. Maria Manuela (Lula) y Fernando Collor de Melo, que resultó en la victoria de Collor. Mota dos Santos y su equipo. Después de 120 días de un exhaustivo y duro tra- bajo, el grupo finalizó las propuestas que resultaron en las primeras once nor- La ABC mantenía con regularidad nuestro principal medio de comu- mas metrológicas para el sector, contemplando una solución, con el beneficio nicación, la revista «Aerossol & Cosméticos», coordinada por el Dr. Rubens directo para los consumidores en cuanto que permitía una mejor condición en el Brambilla desde el alejamiento, a pedido, del Dr. Henrique Valfrè teniendo, acto de la compra de estos productos y una orientación correcta a los órganos de mientras tanto, enormes dificultades para la captación de anunciantes, dado el momento económico vivido. Realizábamos con regularidad en nues- tras regionales y en universidades por Brasil eventos enfocados en el área cosmética, siempre con el apoyo de nuestros patrocinadores, sin los cuales nada habría sido posible. Estábamos aún en la etapa de la comunicación vía fax. Seguíamos la expresión frecuentemente dicha por el recordado presi- dente de la Ceil Bozzano y colaborador emérito de la ABC, Dr. Gilberto Lacê Brandão: «el éxito viene antes que el trabajo solo en el diccionario». En octubre, en ocasión del 9º Congreso Latino Americano e Ibérico de Químicos Cosméticos, realizado en Santiago, Chile, bajo el tema Sol y Piel, 64 congresistas brasileños participaron de la Conferencia Regional de la IFSCC. Aunque con alta participación de congresistas, la presentación de trabajos por Brasil fue bastante tímida, hecho que provocó nuestro brío, de modo de que realizamos una campaña de estímulo, a ser iniciada con la llegada del nuevo año, mirando el Congreso Brasileño y la participación brasileña en el Colamiqc de Venezuela en 1991. 194

Versión en Español A fines de septiembre realizamos la primera edición de «Cosmética», expo- la actual ronda por las regionales y otros lugares de interés por sus atractivos. sición de productos para estética realizada en el recinto del Palacio de las Con- En el ámbito de la Vigilancia Sanitaria, el Proyecto Innovar del SNVS era venciones del Anhembi, en São Paulo en asociación con el Sipatesp, organizada por Alcântara Machado Nordeste. Vale el registro: esa feria, inicialmente, iba admisible por el sector que, en resumen, proponía la reducción de la interfe- a denominarse «Estética», siendo, posteriormente modificada por nuestra su- rencia gubernamental sobre las empresas productoras sujetas al régimen de gerencia, por medio de la aclaración de que el nombre «Cosmética» otorgaba Vigilancia Sanitaria. El proyecto proponía la elaboración y la adecuación de re- mayor amplitud al evento, sugerencia que fue rápidamente aceptada. glamentos, redirigiendo sus acciones de modo de privilegiar actividades técni- cas propiamente dichas, además de racionalizar esfuerzos en busca del mejo- Nuestra tradicional cena ABA/ABC, impecablemente organizada y reali- ramiento de la calidad de los productos dando prioridad a la acción preventiva zada en el Club Paineiras do Morumbi, innovó con la presentación de desfiles de la inspección reduciendo la acción coercitiva, descentralizando las acciones de colecciones de maquillaje para las estaciones primavera-verano, produci- y elaborando programas de fiscalización y control, entre otros. Ese proyecto das por nuestras empresas asociadas. buscaba alcanzar sus objetivos por medio de subproyectos denominados: 1) poner en cero; 2) normalizar; 3) garantizar; 4) fundamentar. En respuesta, el Apertura comercial sector privado (ABC, Sipatesp y Sipaterj) envió consideraciones y sugerencias La apertura comercial en 1990 aireó el sector, aunque haya sido realizada al respecto que, posteriormente, en reunión conjunta con SNVS/Deten/Diprod, sin las debidas precauciones, como el permiso de entrada de productos de baja órganos de protección del consumidor de varios Estados, llegaron a un medio calidad, no disponibilidad de recursos y o programas de incentivo a la investiga- término en cuanto a las acciones a ser tomadas, parando por ahí tal iniciativa, ción para el incremento tecnológico de nuestros productos frente a los impor- habiendo sido definida la adopción del plazo de validez (mes y año) y la ins- tados de líneas internacionales consagradas, no desburocratización del proceso cripción, en lengua portuguesa, de los ingredientes de composición. de registro de productos y autorización de funcionamiento de empresas, entre otras, de modo de mantenerse competitivos y actualizados.Temporada de mo- 7º Encuentro Nacional de Químicos Cosméticos en São Paulo vimiento de sillas en el mercado, cuando profesionales con experiencia y actua- lizados tuvieron buenas oportunidades de evolución profesional. Realización de eventos La ABC crecía en número de asociados físicos en busca de mejoramiento En el área de eventos nuestra gestión marcó una fuerte presencia. La y capacitación, así como también en nuevos socios jurídicos motivados por realización del 7º Encuentro Nacional de Químicos Cosméticos en paralelo el desempeño evolutivo de la asociación y perspectivas de mercado. al 4º Seminario de Cosmética Aplicada, realizada en São Paulo, permitió la Nuestros consumidores buscaban enterarse de la publicación del Código presentación conjunta de 48 trabajos, seis paneles, tres mesas redondas con de Defensa del Consumidor que entraría en vigencia al año siguiente, así temas relevantes y actuales y una conferencia magistral abordando el mo- como también el sector productivo buscaba un entendimiento mejor ente mento económico vivido por el País y sus impactos en nuestras actividades el sector oficial para una adecuación factible en el corto plazo de modo de para una platea de mil participantes entre congresistas e invitados. A los atender a los nuevos requerimientos que constarían en los rótulos de los organizadores Alaor Pereira Lino, Henrique Valfrè, Maria Rita Pereira L. Re- productos. Nuestra industria ansiaba una real paridad con los productos sende que, con mucha energía y talento para el tema, superaron todas las importados por medio de una reducción tarifaria en materias primas y equi- metas establecidas para el evento, nuestra gratitud. pamientos de origen extra zona. Recuerdo que en ese momento, sin precisar quién, fui cuestionado de El trabajo de las regionales se volvía más intenso en el número de con- por qué realizar una conferencia magistral de carácter económico en un ferencias dados los pedidos por parte de las empresas productoras y univer- congreso científico. Respondí que la economía es también una ciencia que sidades en diversos Estados en busca de conocimiento y o mejoramiento. impacta de forma directa en la planificación del desarrollo científico y tec- Estando nuestro segmento industrial constituido por más de 90% de em- nológico, así como que no existe un investigador y/o centro de investigación presas de micro y pequeño tamaño y siendo la región Sudeste la de mayor que no dependa de presupuestos o subsidios para la realización de sus tra- concentración de industrias productoras, proveedores de materias primas y bajos. Creo que resultó acertado ese cuestionamiento. equipamientos, como así también del área de insumos de envases y teniendo en cuenta la posibilidad de ampliar nuestros horizontes por medio de la reali- zación de un evento mayor, consultamos a nuestros asociados, patrocinadores y asociados, recibiendo de ellos el apoyo, para fijar en São Paulo nuestro evento mayor que más adelante, por su crecimiento, se transformaría en Congreso. Eventos internacionales así como también cursos y seminarios mantendrían 195

7º Encuentro Nacional de Químicos Cosméticos del Sipatesp, la primera reunión conjunta entre las entidades patronales del sector privado de Brasil y de Argentina, seguida de su recíproca en São Paulo, A lo largo del tiempo, nuestros eventos mayores fueron adquiriendo un cuyo objetivo fue establecer la estrategia a ser adoptada para la moderniza- abordaje más amplio, además de la presentación y premiación de trabajos ción de reglamentos, observando el futuro mercado común del Mercosur, científicos, por entender que tenemos y debemos buscar optimizar la presen- fundamentados en el mercado internacional, teniendo como referencia a cia del congresista de modo que pueda conocer cómo está la periferia de su Europa y los Estados Unidos. actividad principal y los impactos que puedan influenciar su trabajo de forma directa o indirecta. Dada la predominancia cuantitativa absoluta de micro y pe- El 10º Colamiqc, realizado en Caracas, Venezuela, tuvo una delegación queñas empresas en nuestro sector y por saber lo difícil que es para sus profe- de 60 participantes brasileños, habiendo el País presentado nueve traba- sionales o el propio empresario participar, sea por indisponibilidad de tiempo o jos científicos. costos involucrados, es que nos permitimos abordar temáticas paralelas afines. Cerramos nuestra gestión con la participación en la Cosmética 91, reali- Es imposible imaginar que un investigador hoy pueda prescindir de estar zada en el Shopping Morumbi, donde se dio el Simposio Nacional de Belleza actualizado en el área regulatoria de la actividad de su empresa, así como Estética, organizado por la fisioterapeuta Maria Rita Pereira L. Resende, con también sobre temas como envases, datos de mercado y sus tendencias, al- presentación de doce charlas enfocadas en la estética, salud y bienestar. macenamiento y transporte, importaciones entre otras. Finalizando, una vez más saludo a todos los que nos permitieron con- En este periodo igualmente enviamos «telegrama» de facilitaciones por tribuir para el desarrollo de la cosmetología en Brasil, fundamentados en la el paso de los 50 años de actividad del Sipatesp, nuestro principal colabora- misión y principios que guían nuestra entidad desde su fundación. dor y aliado. Dirección ABC bienio 1989-1991 Otro hecho destaque en nuestra gestión y que no podríamos dejar pasar Presidente: Artur João Gradim fue en ocasión de nuestra participación del III Congreso Brasileño de Productos Vicepresidente: Henrique Valfrè Farmacéuticos, Cosméticos y Afines y 8º Congreso Brasileño de Farmacéuticos, promovido por el Consejo Regional de Farmacia del Estado de São Paulo, en Secretario general: Ariovaldo Minhoto el cual tuvimos el honor de hacer el formato y coordinar el curso de Cosme- Primer secretario: Sérgio Antônio Fernandes tología y habiendo, junto con otros disertantes y yo, y con notorio saber de Segundo secretario: Antônio Célio S. Rodrigues formación en el área de la química, rompiendo un encubierto tabú, tratándose Primer tesorero: Remo Gustavo de Simone también de un consejo profesional de la clase farmacéutica. La ABC, desde su fundación, reconoce ambos profesionales, teniendo prácticamente en todas Segundo tesorero: Miguel De Bellis las gestiones en los cargos de presidente y vice un profesional en cada área. Consejo consultivo: Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Rubens Paulo Becker, Rubens Brambilla, Aristides de Carvalho Realizamos en ese periodo, en Buenos Aires, Argentina, por invitación Consejo fiscal: Miguel Gellert Krigsner, Alaor Pereira Lino, Silvana Nardini Bock, Gustavo Hoff Quirino, Carlos Ará Amiralian, Fátima Andrade Nogueira, Anísio Pinotti, Duílio A. Valdanini Filho, José Luiz Rubini Representantes regionales: Fátima Nogueira (MG), Carlos Cruz (PR), Roberto Papov (PR), Susete Ruppenthal de Borba (RJ), Alberto Viola Stein (RJ), Daniel Barreto (RJ), Olenka Pinto Ramos, José Paulo Santos de Oliveira (RS) Presidentes de las asociaciones de las industrias en países latinoamericanos 196

Versión en Español Objetivos definidos, rapidez en las acciones Artur João Gradim (1991 - 1993) Dirección ABC – bienio 1991-1993 • Hacer el proceso ágil de modo de atender a las necesidades del sector productivo sin prescindir de los instrumentos legales vigentes para protec- Iniciamos esta nueva etapa con objetivos definidos, prontitud en las ción de la salud y defensa del consumidor acciones planificadas con el propósito de incentivar, divulgar e incremen- tar los varios enfoques del contenido técnico científico que abarquen todos • Armonizar el tratamiento dado a los productos nacionales con los los fines de la ABC. Aun en tiempos de nuevas perspectivas, pero con pocas preceptos de legislaciones internacionales y los parámetros existentes y re- posibilidades de éxito, la ABC fue invitada a participar de la Comisión Espe- queridos por la apertura comercial en el ámbito del Mercosur como de otros cial del Programa Federal de Desburocratización coordinado por el ministro asociados comerciales Helio Beltrão con el objetivo de reducir la interferencia estatal en la vida de personas y empresas. Hasta 1991 el programa revocó 111 mil de los 127 • Fijar condiciones para permitir el efectivo control y actuación por parte mil decretos editados por el Poder Ejecutivo desde la Proclamación de la Re- de los órganos de fiscalización sanitaria. publica. Aceptamos la invitación, preparamos propuestas no habiendo, sin embargo, la posibilidad de acciones pro activas amplias en el área, motivada A mi entender ese fue el primer gran paso para el inicio, de hecho, de la por el agravamiento de la crisis del gobierno. reglamentación para productos de HPPC, la cual, en términos prácticos, revo- caba todas las listas arcaicas elaboradas en su mayoría en los años 1970, así En abril de 1992 la ABC ingresaba al Programa Brasileño de Calidad y Pro- como también la revocación de la Resolución 15/89 frente a la inexistencia de ductividad participando directamente en el subcomité sectorial compuesto su reglamentación, entre otras providencias. El conjunto de propuestas pre- por entidades relacionadas a las áreas de higiene personal, cosméticos y sentaba el pedido de una comisión asesora de carácter permanente para que perfumes, limpieza, fragancias y a los sectores oficiales representados por el las adecuaciones acompañen la evolución científica y tecnológica, incluyendo Inmetro, Secretaría de Ciencia yTecnología de la Presidencia de la República, los aspectos relativos a la seguridad, entre otros de interés de la Vigilancia Sa- Detens/SNVS y el DIC (Departamento de Industria y Comercio) del Ministerio nitaria aplicables a los ingredientes y productos. Los desdoblamientos de esta de Economía, Hacienda y Planificación, en pos del estimulo a la formación propuesta se reflejan en las resoluciones posteriores su contenido básico, cuya de una estructura tecnológica con centros de investigación y laboratorios. redacción final es la reglamentación actualmente practicada en el Mercosur. Consideramos hasta hoy como de vanguardia la propuesta presentada, un El escenario nacional preocupado política y económicamente tenía una gran marco regulatorio, un verdadero agente de cambio. visión de futuro bajo el aspecto ambiental en tiempos de ECO 92. Nuestro sector ya no utilizaba propulsores (CFC) perjudiciales para la capa de ozono, A causa de la insatisfacción popular en cuanto a las acciones desarrolladas prohibidos por reglamentación específica del Ministro de Salud en 1988. principalmente por el equipo económico del gobierno Collor, el 29 de sep- tiembre se inició el proceso de «impeachment» del presidente por la Cámara En colaboración con la Abihpec, y bajo el enfoque del nuevo gobierno de Diputados, fecha de apertura de nuestro evento. La ABC, acostumbrada a y atendiendo a la solicitud formulada por la dirección del Deten (Departa- desarrollar su trabajo en medio de las inestabilidades políticas y económicas mento Técnico Normativo) del SNVS, presentamos la propuesta del sector corrientes en el País, se preparaba para realizar el mayor evento del sector, la para revisión del registro de productos de HPPC. En resumen posicionamos: «Cosmética 92», programada para el periodo del 30 de septiembre al 3 de oc- Gradim y Edson Aleixo en el centro 197

tubre, en colaboración con el Sipatesp y Alcântara Machado Eventos, paralela- trabajos de diseño, marketing y tecnología aplicada a envases destinados al mente al 8º Encuentro Brasileño de Químicos Cosméticos, bajo la coordinación mercado fabricante de productos finales. Estética, seducción, impacto, inno- de Rubens Brambilla, y el 5º Encuentro de Cosmética Aplicada, coordinado vación, personalidad gráfica, coherencia, ingeniosidad así como también los por Henrique Valfrè. El evento se realizó en el Pabellón de Exposiciones del beneficios al consumidor y a la comunidad son los criterios, entre otros, que Parque Anhembi, en São Paulo. En el cierre, hubo una conferencia magistral tuvimos a la satisfacción de juzgar en un grupo de especialistas en cada una de con disertación de Joelmir Beting, que discurrió sobre la coyuntura nacional. las áreas de su producción hasta el producto final. Participamos como auspi- ciantes con disertantes con la representatividad de nuestra entidad. Hasta minutos antes del inicio de la ceremonia de apertura, esa confe- rencia estuvo amenazada en su realización frente al hecho que el presidente La ABC estuvo presente en la Feria de Cosmética del Nordeste promovi- Collor estaba bajo el pedido de «impeachment» por la Cámara de Diputados. da por el Sindicato de Industrias Químicas y Farmacéuticas de Destilación y Por medida de seguridad alquilamos el equipamiento de filmación y grabamos Refinación de Petróleo del Ceará, presidida por nuestro compañero y amigo la disertación del recordado Joelmir que, por suerte no necesitó ser utilizada. João Fernandes Fontenelle. El evento, realizado incluyendo la exposición, Coincidentemente al final del evento, el 2 de octubre, Collor finalmente fue ale- alcanzó el éxito esperado en la capital del verano brasileño. jado del poder, asumiendo Itamar Franco, que iniciaría un nuevo ciclo en el País. Igualmente en la condición de auspiciantes, tuvimos la satisfacción de Fueron presentados en los dos eventos 56 trabajos (entre científicos, participar del «Primer Congreso Científico Internacional de Estética» realiza- técnicos y o de interés general) para un público de más de mil participantes. do en la ciudad de Rio de Janeiro, en el Hotel Intercontinental, organizado por Cosmética 92 tuvo 140 expositores, recibiendo un público de 47.000 visitan- la edición brasileña de la revista Les Nouvelles Esthétiques, por entonces, de tes. Éxito garantizado para la edición siguiente. Nuestras actividades regulares de fomento a la cosmetología, por ejem- plo las charlas técnicas, mantuvieron en el periodo su ritmo promedio, así como también la publicación de la entidad, aunque carente de anunciantes, mantuvo su regularidad gracias al esfuerzo del grupo de trabajo. Fortalecimiento La cena ABC en 1993 La Asociación Brasileña de Cosmetología celebró, el 10 de abril de 1983, propiedad de nuestro compañero y amigo Dr. Hugo Turovelzky que brillante- su 20º aniversario. La ABC se viene fortaleciendo con cada gestión desde su mente condujo el evento junto a esteticistas, disertantes e invitados de forma fundación, formando una solidez de base gracias a la dedicación, al compa- elegante y organizada. Nuestra representación asumió un lugar en la mesa ñerismo entre sus administradores y fidelidad frente a su estatuto, principios en la ceremonia de apertura del evento por la que nos sentimos honrados. en pro del fomento de la cosmetología en el País. Miembro de la Interna- tional Federation Societies of Cosmetic Chemists desde 1976 mantuvo sus Compromiso compromisos al día ante la entidad siendo merecedora del premio Lester Al concluir nuestra gestión fuimos contemplados por el Servicio Na- Conrad en 1987 por la presentación del mejor proyecto educativo con enfo- cional de Vigilancia Sanitaria, por medio del Deten (Departamento Técnico que científico para sus jóvenes asociados. Normalizado) y por la Diprod (División de Productos) con carta compromiso con providencias de modo de agilizar el análisis de procesos, cuya deman- No ámbito del Mercosur el SGT-3, grupo de productos premedidos, da reprimida alcanzaba los niveles del absurdo; reforzar el equipo técnico e adoptó para normalización de esta categoría la Norma International OIML- implementar un grupo consultor para análisis de la propuesta de revisión 87, de la Organización Internacional de Metrología Legal, que sustituyó, de los reglamentos técnicos vigentes en el momento, incluso en cuanto a la para los países miembros, las normativas anteriores incluso parte de la que operatividad en su tramitación. Resaltaba la tendencia en adoptar el enfo- en 1981 fue elaborada en Brasil por medio del grupo de trabajo formado por que de riesgo como base del trabajo con el objetivo de una mayor eficiencia la ABC/Abihpec y Sipaterj. La nueva norma viene en dirección al propósito y eficacia en el Sistema de Vigilancia Sanitaria. de los participantes de ese mercado común en cuanto a la internalización de normas, reglamentos y procedimientos adoptados. En este periodo, considerando su importancia para el sector de HPPC, tuvi- mos el honor de participar como miembro del jurado del Premio Brasileño de Envases organizado por la Revista Embanews, publicación de la nueva edito- rial, en ese momento, presidida por su recordado fundador Sr. Roberto Hiraishi que, tradicionalmente, premia con reconocimiento de mercado, a los mejores 198

Versión en Español Tomó posesión el 12 de agosto, para el bienio 1993-1995, en la condi- Dirección ABC – bienio 1991-1993 ción de presidente elegida de la ABC, la ingeniera Linda Cristina de Oliveira (Kristia), primera mujer en conducir los destinos de la entidad, al lado de los Presidente: Artur João Gradim compañeros de gestión, para los cuales esta dirección deseó votos de pleno Vicepresidente: Rubens Brambilla éxito en dicha ocasión. Tenía la seguridad de que tendríamos todo nuevo o Secretario general: Sérgio Antonio Fernandes mejor. Ante esa seguridad de que el número de aciertos habría superado el Primer secretario: Ariovaldo Minhoto de errores involuntarios y con la dedicación, profesionalismo y compañeris- Segundo secretario: Valéria Franco mo comprobados los cuales fueron los pilares mayores de nuestra gestión. Primer tesorero: Miguel De Bellis Así como también, en la misma intensidad, fueron nuestros asociados, des- Segundo tesorero: Carlos Alberto Trevisan tacando al Sipatesp representado por su presidente con quien fuimos carne Consejo consultivo: Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, y uña en la totalidad de nuestras interfaces y, muchas veces tuve el honor Gustavo Hoff Quirino, José Luiz Rubini, Sebastião Donizetti Gonçalves, en representarlos. A nuestros colaboradores en la gestión, funcionarios que Silvana Nardini Bock, Germínio Nazario, Maria Aparecida Veloso Teixeira, estuvieron con nosotros en esa jornada, nuestra gratitud. A nuestros asocia- Maria Rita Pereira L. de Resende, Henrique Valfrè dos y patrocinadores nuestras muchas gracias por la confianza depositada. Consejo fiscal: Carlos Ará Amilarian, Duílio A. Valdanini Filho, Hoy tenemos casi 2 mil asociados físicos y casi dos centenas de empresas. Maria Alice Marques, Tereza Assunção Souza Lourenço, Felicitaciones a todos. Sandra Cristina Poli Schimidt, Tânia Cristina de Sá Dias, Elisabete de Fátima Manso, Maria Dulce Assis Porto La primera mujer en la presidencia Linda Cristina de Oliveira (1993 - 1995) Linda Cristina de Oliveira esenciales y fragancias. En 1993, mi placa fue vencedora y resulté electa la primera presidente mujer de la ABC. Profesionalmente, estaba actuando en Como primera presidente mujer de la ABC, me sentí honrada y también Beraca Ingredientes, proveedora de materias primas cosméticas. con un gran desafío por delante, el de dar continuidad a lo que estaba sien- do muy bueno. Al mismo tiempo, tenía como tarea principal de mi gestión, Hechos importantes en Brasil en ese periodo fueron la destitución del promover la Cosmetología brasileña con ética, innovación y responsabilidad. ex presidente Collor, la realización de un plebiscito en 1993, el Cruzeiro Real Creo que mi misión tuvo éxito, pero, siento que ese hecho debería ser más como nueva moneda brasileña, en circulación desde el 1º de agosto de 1993 seguido y volverse un ejemplo natural para que las mujeres tuviesen una al 30 de julio de 1994. El presidente era Itamar Franco; había dudas en cuan- mayor representación dentro del sector. No obstante, pienso que la «fórmu- to al destino del país. la» no está en el hecho de ser mujer, sino en la capacidad de brindarse a una entidad y no aceptar y o imponer limitaciones a otros. En el escenario mundial merece destacarse el primera clonaje de em- briones, en los Estados Unidos, la mayor integración latinoamericana y un Desde 1989, actué en la ABC, en cargos diversos de dirección, profe- nuevo ambiente entre esos países en las relaciones económicas con la lle- sionalmente, era propietaria de EBPM, proveedora de aceites vegetales, gada del Mercosur. En el campo de la Cosmetología, en 1993, estaba la necesidad de cono- cimiento, información y definición de conceptos. Estaban en alza los ingre- dientes naturales para cosméticos, anticaspa y aquellos de origen marino. Acciones de la ABC en 1993 • Feria Cosmética 93 (reunió 120 expositores, 70 mil visitantes, 25 del Ex- terior) y nuestro objetivo, que era crear un punto de encuentro para el mercado cosmético, fue alcanzado y el evento, desde entonces, se volvió referencia en el calendario del sector. • Participación de la entrega del Premio Actualidad Cosmética. • C elebración de los 15 años de la revista Aerosol & Cosméticos, publicación de la ABA y ABC. 199

• Cursos diversos de Cosmetología en la sede ABC. IX Encuentro Brasileño de Químicos Cosméticos • E n 1994, en Brasil, fueron hechos importantes la elección del ex presi- Realizaciones de la ABC en 1995 dente Fernando Henrique Cardoso y el optimismo con el Plan Real. Los Elaboración para próxima gestión del XII Congreso Latino Americano e indicadores económicos apuntaban crecimiento de actividades en varios Ibérico de Químicos Cosméticos (Colamiqc), evento realizado en São Paulo. sectores, incluso gran expansión del mercado brasileño de cosméticos. De manera concomitante al evento, la ABC promovió el I Congreso Latino Destacados, en el momento histórico, fueron la conquista, por Brasil, del Americano e Ibérico de Belleza y Estética y el VII Seminario de Cosmetología tetracampeonato en la Copa del Mundo, y el inicio de Internet en Brasil. Aplicada. El año registró también, el inicio del desarrollo de alianzas estraté- • E n 1994 la Cosmetología comenzó a demostrar su importancia en la me- gicas con instituciones como Senac y Facultades Oswaldo Cruz - Lab Service, jora de la calidad de vida. Fue el comienzo de la discusión del concepto convenio creado para los asociados para la realización de pruebas y ensayos de «cosmecéuticos». Hubo lanzamientos de productos con protección en productos cosméticos. antimicrobiana y para protección de la piel. Inversiones en investigación y productividad. Ingredientes que estaban en crecimiento: ceramidas, hi- dratantes y antimicrobianos. El stand de ABC en la cosmética-93 Dirección ABC – bienio 1993-1995 Presidente: Linda Cristina de Oliveira La ABC en 1994 Vicepresidente: Hamilton dos Santos En ese año, ABC y otras entidades firmaron el protocolo de intenciones Secretario general: Ariovaldo Minhoto con la Secretaría de Vigilancia Sanitaria (SVS), buscando un acuerdo para Primer secretario: Nelson Bassoli establecer mecanismos para agilizar la concesión de registro de productos, desarrollo de programas y proyectos e incentivo a la educación continua de Segundo secretario: Tereza Assunção Souza Lourenço los técnicos del sector. En 1994, también, la ABC promovió el IX Encuentro Primer tesorero: Marcelo Meira Amaral Bogaciovas Brasileño de Químicos Cosméticos, evento realizado en São Paulo, y el VI Se- minario de Cosmetología Aplicada. Segundo tesorero: Sérgio Antônio Fernandes Marcaron a Brasil en 1995 la desvalorización del real, recesión en algu- Consejo consultivo:Artur João Gradim, Rubens Brambilla, nos sectores de la economía debido a los ajustes del Plan Real, desempleo y Miguel Paschoal Vicente Malato, Henrique Valfrè, Gustavo Hoff Quirino, caída de consumo, con raras excepciones, como el sector de cosméticos, que Silvana Nardini Bock, Maria Alice Marques, Germínio Nazario continuaba en expansión. El momento histórico mundial registró el desarro- Tax council: Duílio A. Valdanini Filho, Carlos Ará Amiralian, llo de la globalización, la oveja Dolly, primer mamífero en ser clonado, y el Tânia Cristina de Sá Dias, Valéria Franco, Sandra Cristina Poli Schimidt, terremoto en Japón. Marcelo Golino, Maria Inês Bloise, Carlos Alberto Trevisan En el área de la Cosmetología, se destacaron los lanzamientos de produc- tos dermocosméticos y fotoprotectores, además del inicio de una mayor pre- Linda Cristina de Oliveira habla en XII COLAMIQC ocupación en crear productos antienvejecimiento. Aceites vegetales, extractos mixtos de vegetales, frutas y flores eran los ingredientes en crecimiento. 200