Apparel Production Management Study Guide

Notes 98

Unit 11 CUTTING FLOOR1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Understand machines, tools and equipment used in cutting section of garmentII. Production factoryIII. To know the cutting processIV. To know the Pre- and Post cutting procedures2. Key ConceptsI. Garment checking & trimming to maintain first qualityII. Different washes and their effect on garmentIII. Value addition3. Concepts Explained a) Cutting Room Furniture, Machines, Tools and Equipment The cutting section cuts and converts fabric into various parts of a garment that can be easily sewn. The section is equipped with a variety of machines and tools that make most suitable cut parts. The equipment can be categorised as follows: Furniture – Essentially furniture in the cutting section refers to tables. There are large tables of lengths of up to 20 meters and 70 inches wide used for cutting of fabrics of different widths. There may be more than two tables as one table is used for spreading fabric while the second table is used to cut fabric already spread. Machines – The section will have marker plotter, fabric spreading machine and different cutting machines. The marker plotter is connected to a CAD machine that generates graded patterns and prepares marker as per the cut plan. The printed marker is spread on the fabric and used as a guide to cut the fabric into different parts marked on it. Fabric is loaded on the automatic spreader which spreads the fabric on the cutting table. The table has vacuum suction below so that the fabric plies do not move. The spreading and laying is computer controlled and the plies are spread according to the programme or cut plan. Where such a automatic spreader is not available, fabric is manually spread. 99

Trainer’sGuide for Cutting machines – There are various types of cutting machines in use. Round knife, Straight knife,Procuration and Band knife are three types of manual cutting machines. In addition computer aided automaticManagement spreader and cutter, and water jet and laser beam cutters are used in some industries with large production capacity. Round knife machines are used for cutting thin lays of fabric from one centimetre to a height up to 30 lays. The machine blade is maneuvered through the fabric guided by the lines marked on the top layer or printed on the Marker. The knife has a couple of small grinding wheels that are periodically applied to the blade edge to sharpen it. Straight Knife machine are most common in the industry. The motor, located at the head, moves the blade in an up-down reciprocator motion. The knife blade comes in three sizes – small, medium and large. The cutting thickness or height is up to 4” height for small knife, 10” for large knife and 6” for medium size blades. The straight blade moves at a speed of around 1,500 rpm generating lot of heat. Lubricating oil is circulated around the critical moving parts to keep it cool. A “Foot plate” moves under the fabric layer on small wheels enabling easy movement to cut by moving the knife through the fabric. These machines are relatively heavy and some units use a mechanized arm fixed at one side of the cutting table. Band Knife is a band saw and the cutting blade is in the form of an endless belt. The sharp blade moves at a very high speed of about 5000 ft. per minute. It is used for accurate cutting, re-cutting and small parts and fusing. To cut on the band knife machine fabric is moved through the running blade. Automatic Cutters and Spreaders are supported by microprocessor based technology. Gerber company first developed the technology followed by many companies in Japan, Korea and China. REACH Technologies is now marketing a series of cutting systems under their own brand name and these machines are assembled from China supplied kits. Patterns and markers are fed in digital form into the machine that spreads and cuts fabric automatically. They are expensive but cost effective when used in large volumes of fabric is to be cut. Water jet and laser cutting machines are advanced machines and expensive. They are known for their precision cutting. b) Cutting Process and Methods The fabric to be cut is spread on the cutting tables. A brown paper sheet is used on top of the table to arrest fabric movement during cutting. Additionally on both ends of the fabric lay weights are used to avoid movement. Printed marker is placed on the lay to guide the cutter who will move the straight knife machine. The edges of the fabric are cut using an edge cutter. Plain fabrics are cut using this method. For Stripes and Checks fabrics that need matching between parts like sleeve and yoke, right and left fronts and back, collar, and cuff care must be taken to lay the fabric so that the checks and lines are in a straight line one above the other. Since precision is required in laying the fabric to match each ply, a pin table is used where pins are placed at table edges which guide the fabric laying. 100

c) Cutting Process and Methods Cutting FloorThe fabric to be cut is spread on the cutting tables. A brown paper sheet is used on top of the table toarrest fabric movement during cutting. Additionally on both ends of the fabric lay weights are usedto avoid movement. Printed marker is placed on the lay to guide the cutter who will move thestraight knife machine. The edges of the fabric are cut using an edge cutter. Plain fabrics are cutusing this method.For Stripes and Checks fabrics that need matching between parts like sleeve and yoke, right and leftfronts and back, collar, and cuff care must be taken to lay the fabric so that the checks and lines are ina straight line one above the other. Since precision is required in laying the fabric to match each ply, apin table is used where pins are placed at table edges which guide the fabric laying.d) Procedures Followed in CuttingSome of the important and common procedures followed in cutting section are relaxation of fabric.All fabrics are stretched when they are packed as rolls. Once the fabric is unwound, it tends to relaxand shrink. The shrinkage sometimes affects the garment cut parts which may lose their dimensions.This is particularly high if the fabric contains Lycra or Spandex or if the fabric is made of linen,ramie or viscose yarns. The period of relaxation depends on the fabric content and may vary from 2hours to 12 hours.During the process of laying fabric, end bits are generated which is that additional fabric which is inexcess of the lay length in the fabric roll. All the end bits are stored by roll and lay number. In case ofany damages during fusing, embroidery, print or sewing, replacement parts are cut from the end bits.The cut parts are bundled as per the paper marker on top and each part is numbered. The cut parts arechecked for quality and verified. Where the parts need to be interlined they are fused with cutinterlinings. In case the parts need to be embroidered such parts are sent for embroidery.All cut part bundles are stored by their style and production order number. They are issued to sewingsection after a final check. 101

Trainer’s 4) Pictorial Explanation of ConceptsGuide forProcurationManagement a) Cutting Room Furniture, Machines, Tools and Equipment The cutting table must have smooth top surface and wide enough to spread 72” and more width fabrics. Modern cutting tables come with vacuum Cutting machines are classified based on the blade Automatic programmable cutting machine Vertical blade cutting machine Band knife cutting machine Round knife cutting machine Pin table for cutting checks and stripe fabrics 102

b) Cutting Process and Methods Cutting Fabric is spread on cutting Floor table Marker laying on fabric lay Fabric cutting using markerc) Procedures Followed in Cutting Fabric must be relaxed before cutting Cut parts must be bundled and numbered 103

Trainer’s 5) Key phrases/ words that you must remember Key PhraseGuide forProcurationManagement Meaning Cutting machines Classified by the type of cutting blade Marker The layout plan arranging all the parts of the Band knife machine garment Vertical cutting machine Used to cut small parte. The fabric parts move against the blade Cut through layers of fabric spread on a table. Numbering Every part of the garment cut is numbered Fabric Relaxation Fabric unwound from rolls and spread to shrink to original form6) Common Mistakes most students / fresher's commitA common mistake committed is to spread the fabric without brown paper below thereby causingfabric to move during cutting.Spreading fabric on the cutting table and start cutting without allowing it to relax causing fabric cutparts to shrink at a later stage.A student internee uses ball point pen to number on fabric cuttings without realising that pen markscannot be removed.7) Practical Examplesa) Cutting Room Furniture, Machines, Tools and EquipmentIn a cutting section fabric was spread for more than two hours as a standard procedure beforecutting. The marker sheet was spread over the fabric and taped on all sides and weights were put on iton all the four sides. The cutting master then cut the fabric lay as per the marker. All equipment andfurniture is efficiently used in the section. 104

Once the cutter completes the cutting the cut parts move to sorting table where they are bundled and Cuttingnumbered. The floor supervisor instructs the bundle helper to issue those parts that need to be fused Floorwith interlining. Later the cut parts are issued to the sewing section. b) Procedures Followed in CuttingThe cutting supervisor prepares the cut plan and after it is approved by the production manager, it isimplemented. As per the plan based on the order quantity and fabric consumption, fabric is broughtfrom the warehouse and unrolled for relaxation. Documentation of the roll number and style arerecorded along with other details. Fabric is then laid on the cutting table or on pin table if it haschecks to be matched. The pinning process is time consuming and the checks on each ply have to bematched using the pins with the previous ply. As each role of fabric is spread as per the length of themarker, the end bit left off the roll is cut numbered and stored for use later.8) SuggestedActivity a) Cutting Room Furniture, Machines, Tools and EquipmentPrepare a layout of the cutting room with measurements to scale and placement of tables andequipment b) Cutting Process and MethodsVisit a garment factory and its cutting section. Observe the cutting process, make notes and preparea report c) Procedures Followed in CuttingObserve the cutting procedures followed in the cutting section and prepare a comparative reportwith standard procedures followed in all factories and identify the deviations. 105

Notes 106

Unit 12FINISHING SECTION 107

Notes 108

Unit 12 FINISHING SECTION1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Student will get to know the functions of finishing processII. Student will learn about different garment washesIII. Student will understand necessity of trimming and checking and how it impacts the appearance of garment2. Key ConceptsI. Garment checking & trimming to maintain first qualityII. Different washes and their effect on garmentIII. Value addition3. Concepts ExplainedGarment checking & trimming to maintain first qualityi. Garments received from sewing section usually have threads of different lengths hanging.ii. Some garments may also have stains – oil, blood, grease – on them which they acquired during sewing operations.iii. When garments are checked in finishing, these small but important quality elements are checked and removed to so that only a first quality garment goes the customer.iv. Garments are trimmed with either manual trimmers or electrical. Trimming too close to the garment may sometimes damage the fabric.v. Stain removal requires a bit of chemistry – organic. Solvents like water, MOT or PERC are used to wash the stain away along with a chemical such as hydrogen peroxide, dilute hydrochloric acid etc. 109

Trainer’sGuide for Different Washes & Their effect on GarmentProcurationManagement i. Garments are washed to give them desired appearance popular with customers. ii. Wash adds value to the garment by altering its original appearance, fabric texture and finish. iii. Different washes give different appearances. Stone wash gives irregular faded appearance. Enzyme wash gives same affect as stone but without damaging the garment. Acid wash creates a bleached affect. Dry finishes like sand blasting, machine sanding, or hand brushing give vintage or used look to the garment. iv. Other finishes like laser give the garments faded effect at desired places. Wrinkle free treatment ensures that the garment is wrinkle free for a number of washes. v. Washes and other treatments add value to the garment by altering or improving their appearance and feel. vi. Tags are placed on the garment as per customer instruction using a tag gun and bullet. Value Addition i. The concept of value addition is important to know. Washing, wrinkle free finish, embroidery, and printing are some of the methods to increase the value of a garment. ii. In the finishing section all these garments where value is added by are checked carefully to ensure that the quality of the garment is not reduced. iii. Washing sometimes damages clothes, if the wash load and the chemical or stone load are greater. Such garments need to be checked and removed. Otherwise instead of adding value, these will bring down the value. iv. It is more important to check embroidered or printed garments after they are washed. Both embroidery threads and print may be damaged if proper precautions are not taken during wash such as covering those areas with additional cloth or plastic sheet. 110

4. Pictorial Explanation of Concepts Finishing SectionGarment Checking & Trimming to maintain first quality Garments are checked for extra threads at seams and trimmed with a trimmer. Trimming threads is a specialist job, particularly if manual trimmers are used. Each seam end has to be checked for extra thread; carefully it must be projected and trimmed. Loss of concentration will cut the garment. In some countries thread trimming machines are used. Garment seams are exposed to the machine which trims the extra thread. They function almost like a shaving machine. Damage to the garment is avoided Trimmed garments are checked for stains. In the sewing section sometimes garments receive oil stains due to a machine leak or oil spill. Blood stains may appear on garments when insects like mosquitoes die on them. All Stains are checked and removed using stain removing chemicals with high pressure guns. 111

Trainer’sGuide for Different Washes & Their effect on GarmentsProcurationManagement Trimmed garments are sent for wash if there is wash programme. There are different types of washes Stone wash with pumice stone is a popular one, but expensive. Stone washed jeans have uneven faded appearance Enzyme washed jeans have an antique appearance. The enzyme reacts with cellulase in the denim Acid wash is a process where pumice stones are soaked overnight in potassium permanganate and placed in the industrial washing unit. The acid strips off the top layer of indigo on the denim fabric and exposes the white yarns and leaves some of the indigo as undertones of blue 112

Finishing SectionSandblasting is a process where fine sandparticles or other similar materials areblasted at high speed on the surfaces ofdenim or similar garments.All the above finishes on denim and jeanseffect the environment. Laser technology isnow being applied to give the same fadedlook to jeans without using water or stonesand the resultant sludge and pollution.Garments are dipped in a chemical andpassed through an oven that sets the garmentwithout wrinkles. It is impossible to affectany creases. 113

Trainer’s Value AdditionsGuide forProcurationManagement Value addition on garments in finishing section is essentially one of checking damages in embroidery particularly after wash. U Wherever such defects are found they must be repaired or darned with the same yarn or thread Similarly when printed garments are washed sometimes the print may be damaged. Other value additions include Nano finished garments, anti-microbial treated garments, wicking, bodycare etc. which need to be handled with care during their passage in finishing section. 114

5. Key Phrases / Words that you must remember Finishing SectionKey Phrase MeaningTrimming Trimming is an activity undertaken in finishing section to cut and removeCheckingEnzyme wash extra thread at the end of the seam without cutting or damaging the seamPumice stoneLaser or fabricengravingValue addition Checking is a common word used to denote checking of garments thatPotassium come to finishing section for extra threads, oil stains, and fabric damagesPermanganateStains This is a chemical wash using organic or eco -friendly enzymes to stripSand bla stingEmbroidery dyes on upper layer of garments to give them a faded appearancePrint It is volcanic stone, white in colour used in garment wash to give a faded and used appearance to the garment This is a technique used to fade garment at specific places using laser beam directed from a laser gun Value is added to garments either through different washes or embroidery or print. Value is also added through chemical treatments such as nano finish, perfume finish, wrinkle free finish etc. These garments as high value is added must be carefully checked and pass ed for next process It is a chemical used for bleaching together with pumice stone Different types of stains appear on the garments when they come out of sewing section such as oil, blood, dirt, pencil, pen marks It is a finishing process where the garment is subjected to high speed blasting by sand particles directed through a nozzle Both machine and hand embroidery. Cutting section sends the cuts to embroidery which are later collected and sent to sewing. Defects in cutting are checked. Cuts are sent by cutting section for different types and methods of print Notes 115

Trainer’s Common Mistakes most students may commit6.Guide forProcurationManagement Trimming & Checking I. Not checking the quality of the trimmer ii. Random checking for extra threads iii. Checking without turning garment inside out iv. Placing the trimmer blade close to garment v. Trimming chain stitch thread too close to seam vi. Trimming a garment with too many defects vii. Trimming a garment without checking viii. Opening stitches and mixing them with trimmed garments Different washes & their effect on garment i. Making a production order without specifying type of wash ii. Sending garments to wash without approved sample iii. Proceeding with wash without after wash shade band approval iv. Receiving different shades washed garments in a single lot v. Sending garments for wash without stitching buttonholes vi. Sending button stitched garments to wash vii. Not giving instructions to cover labels and embroidery before washing viii. Not being able to distinguish wash defects from wash effect Value Addition i. Accepting embroidered garments with non-woven back support ii. Trimming embroidery threads without knotting iii. Repairing embroidery with regular thread iv. Trying to remove stains on a printed garment with acetone 116

7. Practical Examples Finishing SectionTrimming & CheckingIn a garment factory new helpers were hired for trimming in the finishing section. Thetrimming supervisor told the method of trimming but did not tell them how impropertrimming damages the garment.The helpers were given hourly target and started to work. Many of them were trimming thegarments right side out. Consequently after the first hour when the supervisor checked thegarments lose threads were hanging from inside seams.The helpers were then demonstrated how to turn the garment inside out and trim.One of hour of trimming was wasted.Different Washes & their effect on garmentIn a washing unit, heavy denim jeans were stone washed and the order was completed.The helpers were asked to load the next order of poplin white shirts in the machines, aftercleaning. Accordingly shirts were loaded and washed with softener. On unloading, most ofthe shirts were found to be damaged. The washing machine was inspected thoroughly. It wasfound that one of the stones from the previous wash programme was stuck in the washingdrum and was responsible for the damage.If the washing machines are not checked and cleaned properly, disasters can happen as inthis case.Value AdditionIn a Nike ladies sports top that came to the finishing section in a factory, swoosh was noticed tobe turned left instead of right. Nobody noticed the mistake until the garment production wascompleted. All because sealed sample was not displayed in the sewing section. Finishing sectionin this case has found the mistake and alerted management to take necessary action to repair,rework or remake.117

Trainer’s8.Guide for Suggested ActivityProcurationManagement Trimming & Checking Take an embroidered garment and trim the embroidery. Notice that if you trim too close the embroidery threads starts coming unstitched. Embroidery stitch is a chain stitch and if the lose end is trimmed without first knotting, the embroidery will open up. Washing & its effect on garment Take two garments and wash them in a front loading washing machine. Rinse and dry. Load the machine with fresh water and add on cap of silicone softener. Place the garments in it and rinse. Take out one garment and line dry. Dry the second garment in the machine and remove and put on hanger. Check the difference between the two garments after they are dried. The first garment taken out without drying in the machine feels more soft and smooth than the second garment. Reason – during the process of drying, water content along with the softener is expelled thereby leaving very little softener on the garment. Value Addition Take two T-shirts, with a print of Mickey Mouse on them. Make sure that both T-shirts have the print at the same place, size and colour. Take one of them, apply blue colour to the blue coat of Mickey and smudge. Place the two T-shirts for checking to your teacher. Ask her to check and grade them. Don't tell her about the smudge. She will pick up the smudged T-shirt as second and the other as first grade. Value addition commands that the value be not only added but must be maintained on the product until it reaches the customer. 118

Notes 119

Unit 13END OF LINE PROCESSES 120

Notes 121

Unit 13 END OF LINE PROCESSES1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Buttoning garments after they are trimmed and finished.II. Different types of folding and tagging after they are ironedIII. Student will learn different packing methods and materials2. Key Concepts1. Ironing removes wrinkles on a garment and improves its appearance -II. Different methods of Ironing are adopted depending on garment's final presentation in the storeIII. Pressing is used where creases and shape have to be formed in the garment.3. Concepts ExplainedIroning removes wrinkles on a garment and improves its appearance -i. Ironing is a technique where moisture, temperature and pressure are applied as per the fabric of the garment.ii. It is based on the principle that when temperature with pressure is applied to the garment, the inter-molecular links in its fibres loosen and the fibres are straightened and as the garment cools the fibres retain and improve their straightness. Thus the garment appears wrinkle free. Cotton garments need additionally moisture in the form of steam which is absorbed by the molecules in the fibreiii. The critical areas that are handled most are ironed last. 1122

Trainer’s Different methods of Ironing are adopted depending on the garment's finalGuide forProcuration presentation in the storeManagement i. Dress shirts are ironed, folded and packed allowing only the collar and a cuff to be visible. In this type of ironing importance is given to collar and cuffs. The body is folded tightly on a back support which will prevent it from getting wrinkled. The order of ironing is collar, cuffs, sleeves, back and front. ii. Trousers are ironed starting with inside waist band, back rise placed flat on table, front rise placed flat on table, fold the legs with both side seams together and press. Trousers are also pressed on body forms. They are presented on a hanger iii. Jackets are pressed on body form after pressing sleeves on sleeve bucks. They are presented on a jacket hanger iv. Garments with prints are ironed reversing them. Garments made of delicate fabrics such as silk, chiffon etc., are reversed and ironed at moderate temperatures Pressing is used where creases and shape have to be formed in the garment. i. Some garments like blazers need to be pressed during production to give shape to the part such as sleeve head or chest. Similarly pleats on a trouser or skirt, shirt need to be pressed during production to retain the pleats. ii. Garments made of heavy fabrics like denim need to be pressed to give them shape 1223

4. Pictorial Explanation of Concepts End of Line ProcessesIroning removes wrinkles on a garment and improves its appearance Steam iron is used to remove wrinkles on a garment. Irons can be heated with steam or electricityA steam generator or boiler is used togenerate steam.A vacuum ironing board is used to placethe garment in position for ironing. Thevacuum is activated to hold the garment inplace while ironing, so that fresh wrinklesand creases are not formed while ironingIroned garments are wrinkle free. Theirappearance is enhanced 124

Trainer’s Different methods are adopted depending on garment's final presentationGuide forProcurationManagement Dress shirts are ironed and folded with a back support as they are placed on store shelf Trousers are ironed with back and front rise flat and legs with crease Jackets are pressed on body forms Garments with print or embroidery, or sequence work must be ironed with the design inside and preferably with a cloth covering on it. 125

Pressing is used where creases and shape have to be formed in the garment End of Line Processes Jackets and blazers need to be pressed at various stages of production. Collar, shoulder, front under-press, inseam and cuff etc.Trouser pleats and welt pockets are pressedbefore the garment is assembled. Sideseams, crotch seams and seat seams areopened using special bucks or attachmentsto the press5. Key Phrases / Words that you must rememberKey Phrase MeaningIroning A process of imparting heat at regulated temperature to remove wrinkles in a garment or fabricIron box The equipment used for ironing using steam or heatVacuum board A table fitted with vacuum to hold the garment or fabric in placeBuck An attachment to the vacuum table having shape of a garment part such sleevesForm Finisher An apparatus that takes the form of a garment when steam is let in. The formCrease Mark imparts shape to the garment A mark created by folding the garment part and pressing with a hot ironFlat press Pants are flat pressed on the back and front rise. Legs creased 126

Trainer’s Common Mistakes most students may commit6.Guide forProcurationManagementIroning removes wrinkles on a garment and improves its appearancei. Ironing without checking the temperature of the iron boxii. Silk garments are ironed without reducing the steam outputiii. Placing the garment on the iron board and ironing without pressing the vacuum pedaliv. Ironing a shirt yoke by folding the back at yoke. This causes a crease mark across the back shoulder attachv. Ironing a formal pant as a flat pressed casual pantvi. Leaving hot iron on a white garment resulting in a yellow iron markvii. Using hot iron box to iron on a print on tee shirtDifferent methods are adopted depending on garment's final presentationi. Ironing a shirt without using sleeve buckii. Cuff ironing without using a buckiii. Ironing a silk skirt without turning inside outiv. Pressing jacket shoulder flatv. Ironing a peach finished pant in against peach directionPressing is used where creases and shape have to be formed in the garmenti. Pressing jeans as formal pants are pressedii. Using wrong size body form for a shirt finishingiii. Pressing shirt buttoned at shoulder forming crease on shoulder 127

7. Practical Example End of Line ProcessesIroning removes wrinklesTake the case of a trouser factory where a pant form finisher is available. But the ironerswere instructed by mistake to use regular iron tables without buck for legs and waist..The ironers realised that it was better to use the form finisher than iron the table. They hadconsulted their supervisor and used the form finisher. The trousers were finished perfectly tothe satisfaction of the customer.Different methods are adopted depending on garment's final presentationIn a shirt factory, men's long sleeve shirts were being produced for an international brand.Each shirt has to be stand packed. Shirts had to be first ironed on the ironing table and thenusing the folding table. Put the neck support on the neckband, fold the collar and close thecollar button and place the collar on the collar support of the folding machine. Take the backsupport, insert the collar edge inside the collar back allow the machine to fold back the shirt.Fold the sleeve with one sleeve cuff folded on to the.Use plastic clips to hold the cuff to the garment Insert butterfly on to the collar button andadjust below the collar.Pressing is used where creases and shape have to be formed in the garmentCollar and cuffs are pressed using a manual press that has the bucks for these parts. Eachtime the operator has to place the parts on the respective shapes and press manually.However, if a pneumatic press is used not only is the pressure uniform but the operator neednot exert too much energy.8. Suggested ActivityIroning removes wrinklesTake a cotton shirt after wash and completely dried. Use a normal electrically heated ironand press the shirt. Keep it on a hanger.Take another cotton shirt similarly washed and dried. This time use a steam iron and pressthe shirt. While pressing the shirt, press the button to spray steam as you press the area of theshirt. Place it on a hanger.Compare both the shirts. You will find that the first shirt will be having wrinkles even afterironing, while the second shirt will have few or no wrinkles.Cotton shirts must be ironed using steam irons only.128

Trainer’sGuide for Different methods are adopted depending on garment's final presentationProcurationManagement Take a pant. Iron one of the pants on an iron board. First iron flat the front rise, then the back rise. Make sure the side pockets and back pocket are smoothed out before you iron. Then lift the pant, hold both the legs in such a way that the inseam and out-seam of each leg is opposite each other. Place the pant on the iron board, this time with out-seam of one leg on top of the other. Press the pant starting at below the hip down. Repeat the second leg. Iron the inseams also. Place the pant on a hanger. Pressing is used where creases and shape have to be formed in the garment Take a suit jacket; place its sleeve on a sleeve head. Iron it starting at one end moving to the other end of the shoulder. Notes 129

Notes 130

Unit 14END OF LINE PROCESSES 131

Notes 132

Unit 14 END OF LINE PROCESSES1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Buttoning garments after they are trimmed and finished.II. Different types of folding and tagging after they are ironedIII. Student will learn different packing methods and materials2. Key ConceptsI. Button stitching or snap fixing or hook and eye stitching to complete the garmentII. Folding garments as per industry standard and as required by the customer for ease in handling without disturbing its appearanceIII. Packing folded garments for delivery3. Concepts ExplainedButton stitching or snap fixing or hook and eye stitching to complete the garmenti. Garments are sewn in the sewing section with or without buttons, but buttonholes are stitched.ii. Some garments may go through the wash process. Therefore it is industry practice to stitch all buttons, fix snaps or hook & eye in the finishing section before the garments are ironed. Buttons are stitched using button stitching machine. Snaps are fixed using a pneumatic pressured snap fixing machine. Hook & eye are stitched. 133

Trainer’s Folding garments as per industry standardGuide forProcurationManagement i. Garments are folded in the finishing section at the end of line after they are ironed. ii. They are folded as per specifications of the customer. These specifications are based on the presentation and display of the garment in the store. iii. Jackets and other casual wear are half folded with sleeves at the back, popularly called “deadman fold”. iv. Formal Shirts are folded with many packing accessories to give it a special appeal called “stand-up collar”. v. Trousers are half folded at waist and legs. Other garments are folded as per the requirements of the customer. vi. Tags are placed on the garment as per customer instruction using a tag gun and bullet. Packing folded garments for delivery i. Jackets are packed in poly bags of different sizes as specified and specially made. Half fold jackets are placed after folding with a tissue paper in between the fold. The bag is then sealed.. ii. Formal shirts are folded with tissue paper in between the fold. The collar is supported with neck band and a butterfly inserted at the collar button. A Back support is placed of the size of the required fold and the sides of the shirt folded on it with sleeves folding on each side. The hem of the shirt is then folded up to the shoulder below the neck. One cuff is folded on to the top and clips are used to keep the folds in place. iii. Poly bags of different shapes and sizes are used to accommodate folded as well as garments on hangers. The bags are used to prevent garments from attracting dust. All bags are sealed after placing the garments inside. vi. Tags are placed on the garment as per customer instruction using a tag gun and bullet. v. Garments are never packed in polybags when they are still moist and hot after ironing. 134

4. Pictorial Explanation of Concepts End of Line ProcessesButton stitching, snap fixing, hook & eye stitching to complete a garment Buttons are stitched using button stitching machine. These machines are microprocessor controlled to adjust the size of the button. They also have an indexer to fix the distance between buttons. All buttons are cross stitched and knotted. Buttons without holes have a shank at their back to stitch them on garments Snaps are fixed to the garment using a pneumatic snap fixing machine. Plastic washers are used between the metal part of snap and garment fabric to prevent the metal from tearing into the fabric. A die set is fixed to the snap machine to hold the snap part as it is pressed into another part of the snap. There are 4 parts to a snap. Hook and eye are stitched on the garment, particularly on skirts, tops and bras. These are non-corrosive and are often hand stitched. Hook and bar is used on men's pants and ladies skirts. Both the hook and bar are stitched by hand.135

Trainer’sGuide for Folding garments as per industry standardProcurationManagement Jackets are folded in half or not folded but placed on hanger Dress shirts are folded with a back support as they are placed on store shelf. A shirt folding machine is used for uniform folding of all shirts. The size of the fold is adjusted as per the customer requirement. Trousers are folded by half waist and legs folded up to half. Trousers are also half folded placed on hangers All garments are tagged after folding. Tags are of different sizes. They are fixed to the garment either near the second button, or the left arm-hole and sleeve joint. They are attached to the garment either by rope or plastic bullet. Price ticket is tagged separately or stuck in the place provided on the tag.. 136

Packing folded garments for delivery End of Line Processes Jackets and blazer are packed in large polybags. Some customers need the jackets packed in cartons with hangers. In such cases special cartons with ropes on fixed on the inside are prepared to hold the hangers in place. Otherwise jackets and blazers are shipped by hanger containers. Dress shirts are packed with many packing materials. Collar support to give the collar shape. A butterfly in the front to keep the collar standing. A back support to give the shirt size. It is packed finally in a poly bag of specific size. Some shirts are half folded and packed in polybag. Half folded trousers are packed in polybags with or without hangers. If the trousers are a part of the suit, then they are packed with the jacket on a single hanger. If they are separate, they are packed in cartons with ropes on either side to hold the hangers in place. Garments are packed in individual polybags which are then packed in a master polybag. Cartons of different sizes and thickness are used as per the size of the garment. Garments must not move once packed in a carton. The size of the carton must be not too large or small just the size of the garment. Sometimes the garment cartons are packed in a master carton. All cartons must have a poly sheet placed inside extending to both sides each crossing each other at the bottom of the carton. 137

Trainer’s Key Phrases / Words that you must remember5.Guide forProcurationManagement Key Phrase Meaning Buttoning Stitching buttons to the garment using machine Snap A four part fastener used on jackets and jeans. Two part are fixed on the top Buttons called stud and remaining two parts are fixed on the bottom called the post They are made of different materials and come in different shapes and sizes. Butterfly There are both two hole and four hole buttons. Some buttons do not have a Hook & Bar hole but have a ring type device at their bottom to stitch. These are called Hook & Eye shank buttons. Deadman Fold It is made of plastic with two wings and a slit in the middle. It is used to rise Flat fold the collar and give it a shape when packed It is used in pants and skirts to fasten instead of buttons. They are made of gun metal which does not rust Use in skirts, bras, dresses made of gun metal or stainless steel It is folding a shirt or jacket into half with sleeves folded at the back When trouser or jeans or skirts are folded at waist into half to form a single side or leg Notes 138

6. Common Mistakes most students may commit End of Line ProcessesButtoning, snap fixing or hook & eye stitchingi. Buttoning garments before washii. Not using a cross stitch camiii. Using thread of a different colour than button colouriv. Forget to stitch extra buttonv. Using a manual snap fixing machine and damaging garmentsvi. Sewing hook over the waist band. It must inserted stitchedFolding garments as per industry standardi. Folding skirts from waist down in half while customer requires fold on each side so that it appears like a rectangleii. Folding a garment without tissue paperiii. Folding a denim jeans without removing the cover on the wash care labeliv. Folding a parka like a shirtv. Trousers being 3-folded instead of half foldvi. Using a tag bullet to tag at the second button of a shirtvii. Fixing tag reverse sidePacking folded garments for deliveryi. Using larger carton than required size and packing it with paper on all sides to avoid movement of garments inside.ii. Not checking the burst strength of cartonsiii. Packing cartons without poly sheets insideiv. Packing children's garments on wrong size hangersv. Packing jackets on hangers without wings139

Trainer’s Practical ExamplesGuide for7.ProcurationManagementButtoning, snap fixing or hook & eye stitchingIn a factory producing Van-Heusen pants, the waist band has a button to fasten it. Thebuttonhole stitched is eyelet buttonhole. The button is stitched with neck wrap foradjustment. The distance between the button and garment material is adjusted up to 6 – 10mm for the wearer to adjust the waist button.Packing folded garments for deliveryTake a skirt. Iron it flat first the back and then the front. Fold the left side on to the right atapproximately half waist. Tag the garment.Take a tee shirt. Place a tissue and a back support. Fold each side of the tee on to the backsupport. Fold the sleeve. Place a clip to hold the sleeves together. Now pick the tee hem andfold it on to the shoulder. Place plastic clips on either side of the tee to hold the fold.8. Suggested ActivityButtoning, snap fixing or hook & eye stitchingTake a shirt from production or otherwise without buttons. Mark buttons through the centreof the buttonhole with a pencil. Complete marking for all buttons.Take buttons and put them in the button dispenser. Place each button right side up in thebutton stitch button holder. Place the shirt with marking underneath the button. Stitch thebutton. Check the first button by buttoning in the buttonhole. If found to be correct, continuestitching the remaining buttons.Folding garments as per industry standardTake a jacket. Place it flat on the table with the back on the top side. Place tissue paper onthe back side. Now fold the sleeves across the back. Proceed to fold the garment in half bylifting the hem of the jacket to the back collar. Turn the half folded jacket with the frontfacing you. Tag it with the string provided. Place the string on the second button / snap andbring the tag through the loop of the string.Packing folded garmentsTake six shirts already folded. Place each shirt in a polybag and seal. Take the shirts andplace them in the inner carton. Arrange them with collar alternating each other. Seal thecarton. Place 4 packed inner cartons in a master carton. Make sure that the master carton haspoly sheet placed inside with both ends extended outside. Once the inner cartons are placedfold the poly sheet on to each other. Now seal the master carton. Remember to place silicongel packets in each inner carton before sealing them. It absorbs moisture 1840

Notes 141

Unit 15MACHINE MAINTENANCE 142

Notes 143

Unit 15 MACHINE MAINTENANCE1. Learning outcome for the studentI. The student will learn the Concept and Need for maintenanceII. At the end of the session the student will learn the difference between general and periodic maintenanceIII. Student will learn preventive maintenance2 Key ConceptsI. Maintenance is different from repair. It is constant attention paid to keep all the parts of a machine working at all times.II. General maintenance is daily maintenance. It is checking the common parts of the machine for their correct functioning.III. Periodic maintenance involves stoppage of work and changing worn our parts and lubricants and replacing with new.IV. Preventive maintenance is overhauling the machine at specific intervals for replacement of aged critical parts although they may be workingV. Breakdown maintenance is attending to repair of the machine after it stops work.3. Concepts Explained Maintenance is different from repair. It is constant attention paid to keep the machine working -I. One undertakes repair when a machine breaks downII. Maintenance refers to constant or periodic check up of all the moving parts for wear and tare.III. It involves various tasks such as general cleaning, parts replacement, periodic overhauling. 144

Trainer’sGuide for General MaintenanceProcurationManagement It is daily maintenance involves cleaning all visible parts I. II. Clean the machine head and table. III. Checking the needle, thread tension, bobbin and its case, needle shaft and presser foot. IV. Clean the hook set to remove lint. V. General maintenance is carried out by the operator. Periodic maintenance I. Always remember to open the machine in a sequence and re-assemble in the same sequence. II. This is carried out by trained machine mechanic. III. It involves dismantling certain external moving parts such as the needle shaft, throat plate, feed dog IV. Checking these parts and replacing them. Parts such as feed dog and throat plate are changed when required for a style. V. Needle point is checked and replaced when it is worn out or when a new style requires change. vi. Oil is changed periodically when it old and collects lot of impurities Preventive maintenance I. It is undertaken at specific intervals as scheduled. II. It involves dismantling the complete machine and checking for all worn out parts and replacing them. Breakdown maintenance I. As the name suggests breakdown maintenance is when the machine has completely stopped working and broke down. II. If the periodic and preventive maintenance are carried out regularly, breakdown maintenance is not required. 145

III. It involves urgent replacement of any part that has broke down. Machine MaintenanceIV. It is unscheduled and hence causes production loss.V. The time, cause of breakdown, machine number, line supervisor and operator names are recorded. Down time and uptime are also recorded.4. Pictorial Explanation of Concepts Maintenance is different from repair Maintenance is taking care of a machine daily. Checking the machine and its parts constantly. Cleaning the machine table and work area daily is maintenance Maintenance can be - General - Periodic - Preventive - BreakdownNotes146

Trainer’sGuide for General MaintenanceProcurationManagement General Maintenance is cleaning the machine daily with a brush, removing lint from work areas like throat plate, feed dog, bobbin hook etc. It is carried out by the operator Oiling the moving parts regularly Cleaning the machine head Checking the needle point Covering the machine after work to prevent dust settling on the machine head Notes 147