Apparel Production Management Study Guide

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Unit 1 & 2CONCEPT OF APPAREL TECHNOLOGY & THE HISTORY OF SEWN INDUSTRY 1

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Unit 1 & 2 CONCEPT OF APPAREL TECHNOLOGY & THE HISTORY OF SEWN INDUSTRY1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Know the difference between manufacture and tailoring of apparelII. Understand the movement from tailoring to mass productionIII. To know how invention of sewing machine changed the garmentingIV. Important developments in RMG and production concepts2. Key ConceptsI. Difference between industrial manufacture of apparel vs. tailoring and apparel technologyII. Tailoring to mass production sIII. Sewing machine's inventionsIV. Some important developments in RMGV. Developments of production concepts3. Concepts Explained a) Difference between industrial manufacture of apparel vs. tailoring and apparel technology i) Apparel is defined as anything that is worn on the body to cover. While most of the apparel is stitched, some are not. Accessories such as belts and bags that enhance apparel appearance are stitched while trims are stitched on to the garment to improve its performance. All apparel is stitched completely by either a single tailor or a set of tailors who distribute among themselves various parts of the garment to sew. When a tailor sews a single garment it is made to measure to fit an individual. However, when a set of tailors more appropriately operators, sew different parts of the garment, they sew and assemble large number of such garments. They make garments that are ready to wear. Fabric is planned and cut reducing wastage, while tailored garments waste more fabric. The ready made garment industry employs management and technology that are interdisciplinary. 3

Trainer’s b) Tailoring to mass productionGuide for From the remnants of old Stone Age or Palaeolithic age archaeologists found tools made ofProcuration stone that were used to cut and sew the skins of animals that were hunted. During the Neolithic age thorns were used as needles with a hole for an eye. Cobbler's Awl came intoManagement i) existence during the Bronze Age and was used to produce lockstitch. During the industrial age sewing machine was invented by many inventors. But it was IM Singer who made the first commercial sewing machine and sold in 1851. The sewing machine which was manually operated at a speed of 200 stitches per minute has developed today into a very high speed microprocessor controlled automatic machine that performs up to 9000 stitches per minute.ii) From garments made of leaves and animal skins, when woven fabrics were invented unstitched garments were worn as in the case of Romans. Egyptian Pharaohs encouraged sewn garments by clothiers who can perhaps be called fashion designers or couturiers. Tailoring emerged as a trade by 1000 AD. Hand spinning of yarn and weaving and knitting developed into cottage industries. Mechanical knitting frame was invented during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. Fashionable clothing for the royalty and garments from coarser fabrics for the commoners were the trends that emerged. iii) Military uniforms were the first mass produced garments. During the Napoleonic wars fromc) 1775-1815 for the soldiers of the army uniforms were made of fabrics from wool, cotton, leather using decorative motifs in embroidery and print. While men enlisted for war services, women enrolled to work as seamstresses making uniforms. Due to large requirement, production was organised in batches. Sewing machine's inventions Many people attempted to invent sewing machine and its needle. Notable among them were Bathelemy Thimonnier who patented a hardwood machine with a barbed needle in 1830. He was also the first person to set up a garment manufacturing unit. Walter Hunt produced a machine with two spools of thread and a pointed needle with an eye that actually attempted to produce a lockstitch. Elias Howe made a commercial sewing machine in 1844 that was reliable. However, it was in 1851 that Isaac Merritt Singer introduced sewing machine based on Howe's patent. The sewing machine invention also marked changes in garment manufacture. Jobs got specialised, operation sequences formalised and repetitive styles could be made with quality.d) Some important developments in RMG From the period 1850 to 1940 ready to wear garments for civilians came into being with school uniforms in England. Special purpose machines like overlock, double needle, bartack were developed as also rivets to fix some parts of garments. World wars brought with it shortages of fabrics and new designs such as short skirts, blouses and fashion developed. New fabrics such as nylon and rayon were invented. In the years after World War II, Japan was rehabilitated with among others garment manufacture. By 1960s Japan was a leading manufacturer and exporter of readymade garments. However by the 1970s with rising costs in Japan garment manufacture was no more viable and other cheaper centres of production developed such as China, S. Korea, Taiwan, India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan. 4

e) Developments of production concepts Concept of Apparel TechnologyWhile Napoleonic Wars introduced the concept of batch production 1775, other concepts &such as the time and motion study (1890); and assembly line systems of production (1908) The History of Sewnwere adopted to garment manufacture as well. Management concepts which evolved during Industrythe II World War and after such as for logistics, materials like PERT were introduced inapparel production. As the garment manufacturing industry made large strides in Japan, itaccepted some of the finer accepts of manufacturing and quality such as KANBAN systemof inventory management, quality circle for near zero defect garment production andToyota system of process analysis.4) Pictorial Explanation of Conceptsa) Difference between industrial manufacture of apparel vs. tailoring and apparel technologyA master tailor measures, cutsand sews a complete garmentParts of garments are stitchedand assembled by a number ofsewing machine operatorsA tailor is an expert in all theoperations of garmentconstruction 5

Trainer’s An operator knows only oneGuide for or two operationsProcurationManagement Sewing a garment with skins for own use with thorns for needle was how clothing started in the Palaeolithic and Neolithic Ages Bronze Age saw the development of cobbler's awl for manual sewing Sewing machines were invented and developed starting with the Industrial Age 6

b) Tailoring to mass production Concept of Leaves and Skins stitched for self Apparel Spinning yarn, weaving fabrics Technology and making garments for self & was the beginning of the apparel supply chain all performed by a The History person of Sewn Industry From flowing robes of Romans to sewn garments of couture all were made for individuals Military uniforms were the first example of mass production of garments- during the Napoleonic Wars – embroidery, print and other value additions were added to uniforms Batch system of production was developed during the Napoleon period Women were employed on a large scale for the production of uniforms 7

Trainer’s c) Sewing machine's inventionsGuide forProcurationManagement During the period from 1755 to 1830 many tried to develop and patent sewing machine such as Charles Wiesenthal, Thomas Saint, Henderson and Josef Madersperger (needle with an eye near the point) Bathelmey Thimonnier patented hardwood machine with barbed needle in 1830. Walter Hunt makes a machine with two spools of thread and eye pointed needle to produce a lockstitch machine in 1833 Elias Howe patents a sewing machine in 1844 Isaac Singer uses Howe's patent and introduced sewing machine in 1851. 8

d) Some important developments in RMG Concept of School boy uniforms were the Apparel first ready to wear garments made in England in 1880 Technology & Levis Strauss patented and sold Jeans in 1861 to miners in The History California first non-military of Sewn uniforms. Development of Industry double needle, overlock and bartack machines New fabrics discovered and developed – nylon, rayon; improvements in sewing technologies Japan developed as a major outsourcing destination from 1945 – 60 for cheap cost of production. By 1970s other countries developed to compete with Japan 9

Trainer’s e) Developments of production conceptsGuide forProcurationManagement Batch system of production developed during Napoleonic period Time and motion study developed by Taylor for manufacturing industry Assembly line production system developed by Henry Ford Materials management and PERT concepts were developed during the World War were being applied to the industry Japanese system of KANBAN for just-in-time production and Quality Circle for near zero defect production were new concepts introduced to manufacturing Toyota system of manufacturing introduced by Japanese to garment production 10

5) Key phrases/ words that you must remember Concept of Apparel Key Phrase Meaning Amaster craftsman who can produce a complete garment Technology & A person who knows to operate the machine and perform a single operation The History of Sewn A method of production where individual parts are sewn Industry and assembledTailor Production system that is based on customer demandOperator Production in small quantitiesAssembly LineKANBAN SystemBatch ProductionPERT Programme Evaluation and Review Technique used to monitor and evaluate planning and implementation6) Common Mistakes most students / fresher's commit a) Difference between industrial manufacture of apparel vs. tailoring and apparel technology i) Fresher's often send request to sample department to make salesman or size set samples which need to be made in a production line ii) Sewing shank buttons with hand when shanking devise is available on button stitch machinesb) Tailoring to mass productioni) Not being able to recognise the difference between Ready to wear and Readymade garments.ii) A new merchandiser accepting order from a buyer to produce very small quantity of garments on a production linec) Sewing machine's inventionsi) Attributing IM Singer with the invention of sewing machineii) Many students and fresher's mistake hire purchase scheme with mortgage 11

Trainer’s d) Some important developments in RMGGuide for Many fresher's make the mistake of not knowing the purpose for which jeans were firstProcuration created and who created themManagement i) ii) The origin of the denim fabric is mistakenly attributed to the USA iii) Many mistake the contribution of Japan to the quality assurance in garment production and attribute the tools to other countries like the USA b) Developments of production concepts i) Not many know how World War II helped the world in terms of developments in management sciences ii) Fresher's feel that tools like PERT are applicable to engineering industry and are not aware of its benefits 7) Practical Examples a) Difference between industrial manufacture of apparel vs. tailoring and apparel technology i) Amanufacturer of outerwear garments once accepted an order to produce small quantities of high price jackets. It was discussed with the buyer that such small quantities cannot be produced in the regular production line but must be in the sample room of the company. Accordingly the price was negotiated and the buyer agreed to pay thrice the making charges. Special layout was created and specialised machines with specific functions such as seam busting were installed for the purpose. b) Tailoring to mass production i) Single units of garments are made in the sample room of every garment manufacturing company. The same garment is then reproduced in large volumes in the production line. c) Sewing machine's inventions i) The single needle lockstitch machine is most commonly employed in the industry. The machine is no doubt a workhorse and backbone of the industry. The only disadvantage with the machine is that after a stitch is made, the trailing thread must be cut using trimmer or scissors which is considered waste of time but a necessity. Therefore, in the late 1900s a trimming device was invented and attached to the machine at the point of stitch completion. This device cuts the trailing thread. 12

d) Some important developments in RMG Concept of Apparel Technologyi) Garment made of heavy fabrics need to be produced on heavy duty industrial sewing &machines. In a production line dedicated to sewing heavy weight denim jeans, a company The History of Sewnmade preparations first by installing heavy duty machines. The sewing parts of the machine Industrysuch as needle, presser foot, throat plate and feed dog are all of heavy duty capable ofpiercing through a very thick fabric.e) Developments of production concepts i) A company specialised in production of dress shirts for men, adopted a modular production system instead of the PBS system. Various small parts of the shirt were sewed in separate modules and assembled on a line. This helped the company to improve its productivity.8) SuggestedActivity a) Difference between industrial manufacture of apparel vs. tailoring and apparel technology i) Buy a pair of readymade pants and get one pair of pants made to order. Compare the construction, time required and quality. b) Tailoring to mass production i) Visit a leading tailoring shop and observe the various functions undertaken by the tailor and his associates. Visit a garment manufacturing factory and notice the production process. Compare both types of production. c) Sewing machine's inventions i) Work and compare a domestic sewing machine and an industrial sewing machine. d) Some important developments in RMG i) Check the construction of different types of pants and prepare a report on the differences e) Developments of production concepts i) Visit two garment manufacturing factories and compare the quality systems being followed 13

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Unit 3MODERN SEWING MACHINE TYPES 15

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Unit 3 MODERN SEWING MACHINE TYPES1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Understands sewing machinesII. Will know the different types sewing machinesIII. Understands how stitch is formed2. Key ConceptsI. Parts of a sewing machine and their functionsII. Types of sewing machines and their useIII. Stitch formation and types of stitches3. Concepts Explaineda) Parts of a sewing machine and their functionsi. Sewing machines have different parts which move in different ways to form stitches. There are four types of movements observed in a sewing machine – rotary, reciprocatory, ellipsoidal and oscillatory.ii. All parts are housed in metal casing called the head which is mounted on a bed. The bed can be flat as is common in all lockstitch and chain stitch machines or rounded as in the case of feed-of-arm machines. The sewing bed is fitted in two hinges fixed on the table.iii The essential parts of the machine are - A drive mechanism which transfers power from a motor to all those moving parts such as gears, cams and other mechanical linkages through a belt. A needle bar moves the needle up and down and is covered by a face plate. A presser foot fixed to the presser bar presses down the fabric and stabilises its movement while sewing. Throat plate or needle plate is a semicircular or rectangular plate with slots fixed with screws below the presser foot bar. The slots on the plate allow feed dog which is below it to reach fabric above feed in the direction of sewing. Presser foot lifter is a lever attached at the back which enables to lower and raise the presser foot. Stitch is formed using a bobbin or a spool with sewing thread wound on it and is placed inside a bobbin cover and mounted on a bobbin hook or shuttle. A fly wheel is engaged with a belt to a motor and when power is switched on it sets 17

Trainer’s the machine parts into motion. A stitch regulator controls the length of the stitch. A threadGuide for guide holds thread in place from the thread spool to the needle. A thread tension discProcuration comprising two concave discs maintains tension of the thread as it passes from the spool toManagement the needle. a) Types of sewing machines and their use Sewing machines are three types based on their stitch formation – lockstitch, chainstitch and overlock. i) Lockstitch machines are single and double needle. Most common among them is single needle lockstitch machine used for all applications. The machine forms a secure locked stitch which strong and last longer. A double needle machine is used to doubly secure two garment parts that experience maximum stress and pressure such as the yoke of a shirt or the out seams of a jeans or side seams of a garment. Lockstitch machines are used to join two or more fabrics. ii) Chainstitch machines form a chain stitch. The machine serves the same purpose as lockstitch machine but the stitch can be easily unravelled. Single chain stitch is used in embroidery, decorative stitches and for seams of less stressed parts like front placket of a shirt. Double chain stitch is extensively used with double, triple and four needle configurations as feed-of- arm machines and waist band machine for use in closing side seams of shirts, attach front plackets of tops and shirts. iii) Overlock machines form chain and lockstitches. Overlock or overedge stitch forms over the edge of one or two fabrics with one of the three threads looping over the fabric edge preventing the weft yarns from fraying. The overlock machines come with single, three and four needle configurations. A variant of the overlock machine is the blindstitcher which is used to hem the bottoms of pants, shirts and jackets. iv) Interlock machines are other variants of the overlock where two needles carry thread and a looper supplies that loops through the two needles loops forming a chain stitch which is more stable. Flatlock machines have an additional spreader which forms loops underneath the needle on the upper side of the fabric. Both these machines are commonly used in the production of knitted garments and to form belt loops. b) Stitch formation and types of stitches i) Lockstitch is a common stitch formed by single needle sewing machine from two threads, one passed through a needle and one coming from a bobbin or shuttle. Each thread stays on the same side of the material being sewn, interlacing with the other thread at each needle hole by means of a bobbin driver. As a result, a lockstitch can be formed anywhere on the fabric. ii) Chainstitch is a primitive stitch when human being stitched leaves and skins using various types of needles. The stitch is not self locking, and if the thread breaks at any point or isn't tied at both ends, the whole length of stitching comes out. It's also easily ripped out. The direction of sewing can't be changed much from one stitch to the next, or the stitching process fails. A variant of the chainstitch is the overlock stitch where the stitch wraps around the edge of the fabric and hence it is also called as overedge stitch. 18

4) Pictorial Explanation of Concepts Modern a) Parts of a sewing machine and their functions Sewing Machine Types Bobbin in the sewing machine has oscillatory movement Needle bar has as recipro cator y movementSewing machines have different parts that move differently. Feed dog below the needle plate moves ellipsoidally Hand wheel has a rotary movementParts of a sewing machine 19

Trainer’s b) Types of sewing machines and their useGuide forProcurationManagement Single needle lockstitch machine is Double needle lockstitch machine is used to extensively used in garment production secure seams and decoration industry Feed of the arm chain stitch machine is used Overlock machine is used to secure fabric for closing side seams of shirts and to stitch edges from fraying seams in pants Flat lock machines are used in knit garments Buttonhole and button stitch machinesAutomatic pocket welt machine Eyelet buttonhole machine to make buttonholes that appear as keyholes for pants and jackets 20

c) Stitch formation and types of stitches Modern A lockstitch is formed when the needle Sewing thread forms a lock with the bobbin Machine thread Types Lockstitch Chainstitch Overlock stitch or serge stitch Flatlock stitch5) Key phrases/ words that you must rememberKey Phrase / Word MeaningFeed dog Present below the needle plate which comes out to push the fabric after everyNeedle stitch Fixed to the needle bar which moves upBobbin or looper and down and carries thread to dormOverlock stitch stitchesFlatlock stitch It is a spool carrying thread to form theNeedle plate or throat plate lower part of the stitch Used for securing the yarns at the edge of fabric. Also called serge stitch Used on knit garments It is below the needle and above the feed dog. It has got slits through which the feed dog comes up to move the fabric 21

Trainer’s 6) Common Mistakes most students / fresher's commitGuide forProcurationManagement a) Using appropriate machine for an operation such as closing side seams with 3 thread overlock which is not secure. b) When the loops are formed on the underside or on topside of stitch not being able to find solution for it. Loops are formed if the tension of the bobbin thread take up is not correct or when the bobbin thread and topstitch thread are of different qualities, c) Unable to recognise the cause for skip stitches even after spending considerable time 7) Practical Examples a) Parts of a sewing machine and their functions A line supervisor sets a batch for shirt production. He instructs the mechanic to check the thread tension of each machine and the needle points and size. b) Types of sewing machines and their use In the batch for trouser production a line supervisor sets SNLS machines for fly preparation; SNLS, DNLS and 4 thread chainstitch machines for waistband preparation; SNLS machines for making pocket bags and sewing side seam pockets and welt pocket; attaching the feed-of-arm machine for sewing inseam and outseam of both legs; and bartack machine for securing welt pocket, zip and fly attach, and belt loops. c) Stitch formation and types of stitches On men's shirt flatlock stitch is sometime used over the double needle lockstitch on the yoke for decoration. Similarly chain stitch is used for decoration on shirt front. However, in every garment the most common stitch found is lockstitch. Edge wrap is done to secure fabric edges from fraying using overlock stitch. 3) Suggested Activity a) Parts of a sewing machine and their functions Sit in front of a sewing machine and start the machine and observe the parts that move and note their movement. Adjust the stitch length and number of stitches. b) Types of sewing machines and their use Sew on the edge of a fabric cutting using a 3 thread overlock machine and notice the stitch is formed. Make a stitch with 4 thread and 5 thread overlock machines. Compare the seams formed by 3, 4 and 5 thread machines. c) Stitch formation and types of stitches Make a hand stitch with a needle and thread on a piece fabric. Stitch on the same fabric piece using single needle lockstitch machine and a chain stitch machine. Write about the differences you will find. 22

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Unit 4CLASSIFICATION OF SEWING MACHINES 24

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Unit 4 CLASSIFICATION OF SEWING MACHINES1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Understand classification of sewing machinesII. a)Understand class of stitches2. Key ConceptsI. Classification of sewing machinesII. a)Classification of stitchesIII. Value addition3. Concepts Explaineda) Classification of sewing machines i) Sewing machines are mainly classified by their use as domestic and industrial. We will learn about the classification of industrial sewing machines. ii) Industrial sewing machines work at very high speeds and use a variety of mechanisms – speed, motors, automation, needle systems. iii) Sewing machine beds Flatbed is the most common machines. These resemble traditional sewing machines in that the arm and needle extend to the flat base of the machine. These are used for sewing flat pieces of fabric together. Cylinder-bed machines have a narrow, horizontal column. This allows fabric to pass around and under the column. The diameter of the cylinder-bed varies from 5 - 16 cm. These machines are used for sewing cylindrical pieces such as cuffs, but it is also useful for bulky items such as saddles and shoes. Post-bed machines have bobbins, feed dogs and/or loopers mounted on a vertical column that rises above the flat base of the machine. The height of this column ranges from 10 - 45 cm. Applications that make access to the sewing area difficult, such as attaching emblems, boot making and glove making utilize the post-bed machine. Off-the-arm machines require material feeding along the axis of a horizontal column. The design limits the length of the seam sewn to the length of the column, but is useful for applications such as sleeve and shoulder seams. 26

Trainer’s i) Different sewing machines use different bobbin and hook sets and produce a variety ofGuide forProcuration stitches used in producing different products.Management ii) Sewing machines are also classified by the type of motor – clutch and needle position. Industrial sewing machines are normally driven by two very different types of motor. The clutch motor and the needle positioning motor. The clutch motor has a mechanism operated by the foot pedal, to engage and disengage a mechanical clutch, which in turn provides the drive to start and stop the machine. A needle positioning motor is electronically controlled, and offers the ability to provide a variety of extra functions. The main function is needle positioning. The motor can be configured to make the machine stop with the needle either in the work, or out of the work, which eliminates the need for the operator to manually position the needle using the hand wheel when turning a corner or removing work. iii) Sewing machines are classified by the kind of feed. Drop feed: The feed mechanism lies below the machine's sewing surface. This is probably the most common feed type. Needle feed: The needle itself acts as the feed mechanism, which minimizes slippage and allows workers to sew multiple layers of fabric. Walking foot: The immobile presser foot is replaced with a foot that moves with the feed, which allows easier performance on thick, spongy or cushioned materials. Puller feed: The machine grips and pulls straight-seemed material as it is sewn and can perform on large, heavy-duty items such as canvas tents. Manual feed: The feed is controlled entirely by the worker, who can do delicate, personal work such as shoe repair, embroidery and quilting. On industrial sewing machines, it is sometimes necessary to remove the feed dogs to obtain a manual feed. iv) The speed at which these machines work is measured by the number of stitches they make in a minute (SPM) – up to1200, 200 to 3000, 3000 to 5500 and 9000 b) Types of sewing machines and their use Sewing machines are three types based on their stitch formation – lockstitch, chainstitch and overlock. i) Lockstitch machines are single and double needle. Most common among them is single needle lockstitch machine used for all applications. The machine forms a secure locked stitch which strong and last longer. A double needle machine is used to doubly secure two garment parts that experience maximum stress and pressure such as the yoke of a shirt or the out seams of a jeans or side seams of a garment. Lockstitch machines are used to join two or more fabrics. 27

ii) Chainstitch machines form a chain stitch. The machine serves the same purpose as lockstitch Classification of Sewingmachine but the stitch can be easily unravelled. Single chain stitch is used in embroidery, Machinesdecorative stitches and for seams of less stressed parts like front placket of a shirt. Double chainstitch is extensively used with double, triple and four needle configurations as feed-of-armmachines and waist band machine for use in closing side seams of shirts, attach front plackets oftops and shirts.iii) Overlock machines form chain and lockstitches. Overlock or overedge stitch forms over the edge of one or two fabrics with one of the three threads looping over the fabric edge preventing the weft yarns from fraying. The overlock machines come with single, three and four needle configurations. A variant of the overlock machine is the blindstitcher which is used to hem the bottoms of pants, shirts and jackets.iv) Interlock machines are other variants of the overlock where two needles carry thread and a looper supplies that loops through the two needles loops forming a chain stitch which is more stable. Flatlock machines have an additional spreader which forms loops underneath the needle on the upper side of the fabric. Both these machines are commonly used in the production of knitted garments and to form belt loops.a) Stitch formation and types of stitchesi) Lockstitch is a common stitch formed by single needle sewing machine from two threads, one passed through a needle and one coming from a bobbin or shuttle. Each thread stays on the same side of the material being sewn, interlacing with the other thread at each needle hole by means of a bobbin driver.As a result, a lockstitch can be formed anywhere on the fabric.ii) Chainstitch is a primitive stitch when human being stitched leaves and skins using various types of needles. The stitch is not self locking, and if the thread breaks at any point or isn't tied at both ends, the whole length of stitching comes out. It's also easily ripped out. The direction of sewing can't be changed much from one stitch to the next, or the stitching process fails.iii) Overlock stitch is one of the commonest of the multi-thread chain stitches constructions, used in sportswear, leisure wear, and interlock garments where a high degree of strength and extensibility is required. It is commonly referred to as two needle bottom cover-stitch. This stitch type utilizes one needle thread and one looper thread which are inter-looped at the point of needle insertion and on the fabric edge- the needle thread loop being extended across to achieve this. This stitch is used mainly for over edging single ply panels of fabric (serging) before they are joined together. 28

Trainer’s 4) Pictorial Explanation of ConceptsGuide forProcuration a)Classification of sewing machinesManagement Lockstitch Machines Chain Stitch Machines Overlock or Safety stitch machines 29

b) Classification of stitches Classification 100 class single thread Chain Stitch of Sewing Machines200 class stitches are hand stitches Underside300 class stitches are made by lockstitch Undersidemachines Face400 class multithread chain stitch Face500 class overlock or overedge stitch600 class cover stitch800 class safety stitch 30

Trainer’s 5) Key phrases/ words that you must rememberGuide for Key PhraseProcurationManagement Meaning SPM Stitches per Minute which determines the speed of the machine Sewing Bed The sewing elements consisting of machine is mounted on a heavy metallic surface which is either flat, cylindrical, Motors Two types of motors – clutch and needle position 6) Common Mistakes most students / fresher's commit a) Classification of sewing machines A new recruit in production department was asked to prepare a line plan for production of trousers. He was asked to use different machines for specific functions. All machines that the recruit planned and indented were flat bed lockstitch machines even for such operations like 4 layer crotch stitch and inseam stitch. The 4 fabric crotch seam requires a post bed lockstitch machine and the inseam sewing requires cylindrical feed-of-arm machine. b) Classification of stitches When a sample of fabric with cover stitches and safety stitches was given, the student could not differentiate between the two. 7) Practical Examples a) Classification of sewing machines A modern factory uses computer aided planning system. When the product to be sewn with all the seam and stitch details are given, the system generates the line plan with different machines to be used, their placement in the line, and the operation expected to perform b) Classification of stitches The techpack received from a customer described in detail the stitch and seam to be used in the garment, the stitches per inch and the finish required. 31

8) SuggestedActivity Classification a) Classification of sewing machines of Sewing MachinesDraw a classification table specifying the class of each sewing machine based on the ISO orJapanese Standard systemb) Classification of stitchesStitch different stitches on fabric samples and label the stitches as per theAmerican standards. Notes 32

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Unit 5SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE 34

Notes 35

Unit 5 SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Understand parts of a sewing machine needleII. Understand types of sewing machine needles2. Key ConceptsI. Sewing machine needle and its partsII. Types of sewing machine needles and their application3. Concepts Explaineda) Sewing machine needle and its parts i) Industrial sewing machines work at very high speeds performing up to 9000 stitches per minute. At such high speeds when the needle penetrates the fabric and returns once again to re-enter, lot of heat is generated due to the fiction created. Therefore the needle must be made of high shearing strength and hardness and of desired torsion. To meet the exacting requirements modern machine needles are made from high carbon steel and are nickel or gold plated to make them free from corrosion. ii) The needle has 5 parts – shank, blade, scarf, groove, eye and point. Shank is the upper end which is thick and round with flat face on one side. Shank is the part which is inserted in the grove of the needle bar and fixed with a screw. Shaft is the area of the needle from the bottom of the shank up to the point. The shaft contains the groove, scarf, eye and point of the needle. A groove is in the side of the needle leading to the eye. The groove is a place for the thread to lay into the needle. The scarf is a groove out of one side of the needle. The scarf allows the bobbin case hook to intersect with the upper thread and form stitches. The eye of the needle carries the thread so the machine can keep forming stitches. The size of the eye can vary and works in conjunction with the groove of the needle. The point of the needle is the first contact with the fabric and responsible for how the needle pierces the fabric. 36

Trainer’s b) Types of sewing machines needles and their applicationGuide forProcurationManagement There are two types of needles – general purpose and specialty General purpose needles are used for all types of machines and garments. There are four types among these. 1. Universal point needle is most commonly used needle for all woven and knit fabrics. The point is slightly rounded, but sharp enough to pierce through tightly woven fabrics. Since it round enough it can push between the yarns of a knitted fabric. Common sizes of the needle are: 8/60 to 19/120. 2. Ball point needle has a medium tip that is a slightly more rounded than a universal needle and passes between the fabric threads instead of piercing them. Ball-point needles ensure more even stitches on coarse and heavy knits and won't damage spandex, interlocks and other knits that snag or run easily Sizes: 10/70 to 16/100. 3. Sharp / Microtex needles feature a narrow shaft and sharper point to pierce the threads of woven fabrics. Use for stitching smooth, finely woven fabrics, such as silk, chintz, lightweight faux suede and microfiber fabrics. Because these needles enable perfectly straight stitching, they're also ideal for heirloom stitching, topstitching, pin tucks and edge stitching. Sizes 8/60, 10/70, 12/80 and 14/90. 4. Overlock needles are specially designed for use with a overlock machine. They feature a sharp point that is suitable for all fabrics. . Sizes: BLX1 (2-11, 2-14) and DCX1 (2-11, 3-14 Specialty needles are used for specific machines or types of applications. There are several types of specialty needles. 1. Needles for jeans and denim are very sharp point and have a stiff shank. They are also used for stitching heavy fabrics like canvas and multiple layers of fabric. Sizes: 10/70 to 18/110 2. Stretch needles have a deep scarf so that the bobbin hook gets closer to the needle eye, prevents skipped stitches on fine and lightweight knit fabrics. These needles are ideal for stitching silk jersey, lycra, other elastic and lightweight knits as well as lightweight faux suede. Sizes: 11/75 and 14/90 3. Wing/hemstitch needles have a flared shaft that appears like wings, and creates a decorative hole in tightly woven fabrics. This needle is used for heirloom stitching, openwork, hemstitching and other decorative stitching on fabrics such as fine batiste and linen. Sizes: 100/16 and 120/19 4. Needles for topstitch have a large groove and an extra-large eye to facilitate heavy thread or two strands of all-purpose thread. They also have an extra-sharp point for straight, accurate stitching. Sizes: 80/12, 90/14 and 100/16 5. The other specialty needles are for sewing leather garments, quilts and embroidery. Metallic needles are used when sewing with metal thread. Spring needles are used for sewing quilting, monogramming and embroidery. Triple needles on a single shaft and twin needle on a single shaft are used for decorative stitching. 37

4) Pictorial Explanation of Concepts Sewing a) Sewing machine needle and its parts Machine Sewing machine needle is long and thick on Needle one end and with a fine point at the other end The thick end of the needle is called shank The part extending from the bottom of the shank up to the point is called blade Scarf is the indentation at the back of the above the eye Scarf is the indentation at the back of the above the eye Groove is the channel that is cut in the back of the shaft to release the thread into a loop which aids the hook or shuttle to pick up the thread Point penetrates the material by parting the threads or cutting a hole 38

Trainer’s Universal point needle used for all types ofGuide for woven and knit fabricsProcurationManagement Ball point needle specially used on knit fabrics Sharp/Microtex point needle used on silk and micro fibre woven fabrics for top stitching and edge stitching Stretch needle point used for sewing knit garments with lycra. It has a deeper scarf and prevents skip stitches Denim / jeans needle point which is very and used in production of heavy fabrics like denim and canvas and multiple layers. Leather needle which has cutting point suitable for sewing leather, suede and artificial leather fabrics. Overlock needle is sharp and pointed Blind stitch needle which curves on to the inside is designed to stitch without the top stitch being visible. 39

5) Key phrases/ words that you must remember Sewing Machine Needle Key Phrase MeaningNeedle number It is the thickness of the needle. Thicker the needle bigger theNeedle point number. American numbering uses 8 – 19, with 8 being thinScarf and fine and 19 is very thick and heavy. European equivalent isEye 60 to 120Shank The end point of the needle which is sharp to round. Needle point is selected depending on the type of fabric It allows bobbin case hook to intersect with needle thread to form a stitch It is the hole just above the point and its size must be compatible with sewing thread thickness. Selection of the needle depends on the type of thread to be used in the top stitch Industrial sewing machine needles have a round shank and the groove indicates the direction to insert the needle in the needle bar6) Common Mistakes most students / fresher's commit a) Sewing machine needle and its parts A new production supervisor who joined duty two days earlier was asked to set a batch for 80's count fine cotton woven shirt production. It was the first time for the supervisor to handle such fine fabric. He was used to producing shirts with 40's count poplin fabrics. He did not give much importance to the fabric and proceeded to set the line. The needle size on the machine was number 14 and round point. As a result needle holes were clearly visible on the garments. He should have used number 11 needle with Microtex point. b) Types of sewing machines needles and their application In a production line that just finished cotton shirts, a line supervisor loaded heavy weight jeans for production. The line did not start production as the needles were breaking on almost all the machines. It took sometime for the supervisor to realise that the needles on the machines are number 14 which were compatible with shirt fabric. The production was stopped until all the needles of suitable size were replaced. 40

Trainer’s 7) Practical ExamplesGuide for Sewing machine needle and its partsProcurationManagement a) i) In a production line it was planned to introduce men's silk shirts. The I.E planned the number of machines and attachments required.As silk is a delicate fabric it was decided to use Teflon presser foot and number 9 needles. The operators were advised on the sewing technique and method of handling silk fabric. They were accordingly given the target. The production was slow but the quality was not up to the standard. There were feed dog marks on the back side of the some seams. Quality checkers pointed out the issue to their superior. The QAD manager came to the line and checked and found that some of the seams were responsible for the marks. All the operations were stopped and every machine was checked. While the presser feet were changed, the feed dogs were not changed. Feed dogs with Teflon teeth and throat plates were changed to avoid any further damage to the shirts. The target was revised and production was delayed. However, the quality of the shirts improved. ii) In another instance the production supervisor in a shirt factory refused to load a style since the fabric was very difficult polyester micro chiffon. He knew that his operators cannot handle the fabric. He told the production manager that in order to load the style in the line he needed to train the operators on the fabric with number 9 needle, plastic presser feet and plastic feed dogs. If time is given to train the operators for two days with waste cuttings, the supervisor said he could take up the production. Accordingly production manager allotted additional number of days to accommodate for training for the line. b) Types of sewing machine needles and their application i) Skirts, pants and jackets are hemmed at the bottom without the stitch being visible from the outside. Factories that produce these garments must have blind stitch machines which use special needle that only picks up enough fabric fibres on the inside of the seam and secure the stitch. The needle must be very thin to avoid puckering. In a factory that was producing fine linen and silk blended jackets for reputed customer, blind stitch machines were organised in the production line. Appropriate needles were ordered and fitted on to the machines. Mono filament thread was ordered from Coats. However, after supplying a few cones, the supplier discontinued production of the thread and instead double filament yarn thread was supplied. It was found out that the denier required for the garment must be finer than what was supplied. The thread supplier was asked arrange for a finer denier and until then production had to be stopped. It is not only the needle but also the thread that has to be selected for the needle and operation. ii) In another instance, a bullet proof vest produced by a factory. Instructions were issued that the thread must be heavy duty nylon core spun. To suit the thread, special needles had to be found which could withstand the heat generated during sewing and the pressure of the stitching operation.An extra heavy duty needle with sharp point made of titanium was found suitable to be used for the thread and the fabric. 41

8) SuggestedActivity Sewing Machine a) Sewing machine needle and its parts Needle i) Take a sewing machine needle, draw its diagram and mark its parts. ii) Fix the needle on to a machine and placing fabric beaneath it, stitch very slowly to observe the movement of the needle, feeding of the thread through the groove and the scarf. b) Types of sewing machines needles and their application i) Go to the sewing lab, observe and prepare a report on the sewing needles found on different machines and their application.42

Notes 43

Unit 6THE SEWING CYCLE 44

Notes 45

Unit 6 THE SEWING CYCLE1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Understand what a sewing cycle meansII. Understand standard allowance2. Key ConceptsI. Garment checking & trimming to maintain first qualityII. Different washes and their effect on garmentIII. Value addition3. Concepts Explained a) Sewing Cycle i) Garment production in the industry is performed by operators who stitch different parts of a garment and assemble them progressively into a garment. Each operator in order to stitch uses both their hands. They pick the part to be stitched with their left hand, place it under the presser foot of the machine with the help of their right hand, lower the presser foot perform the stitch, lift the presser foot with right hand, remove the completed part with right hand and place it at designated place. ii) Each operator uses left hand to pick, left and right hands to sew and right hand to dispose. The entire sequence of operations is called Sewing Cycle. These operations can be termed as pre-sewing, sewing and post-sewing. 1) In the pre-sewing cycle the part to be sewn is picked with left hand by the operator brought under the presser foot and aligned. The presser foot is lowered. 2) In the sewing cycle the needle starts moving and performs stitching up to the extent required and stops. 3) In post-sewing the presser foot lever is lifted, sewing thread is trimmed the stitched part is removed and inspected and disposed (placed) on the conveyor. 46

Trainer’s b) Basic Process TimeGuide forProcuration Each sewing cycle is a repetition of the previous operation. The operator performs the sameManagement operation until all the parts are sewn. This may take a few days or weeks depending on the quantity to be sewn. Further when the current order is completed and new order starts, the operations remain almost similar. As a result every operator gains a level of proficiency in her work. Consequently their sewing cycle times are recorded and an average over a period of time for an operation is calculated. The time taken for the pre- and post- sewing cycles is recorded together with the time of sewing cycle. The time for a sewing cycle varies depending on the time of the day. When operators arrive in the morning for work they must be given time to settle down to work before the times are recorded. Time study can be conducted after the operators start working in a rhythm after settling down at their work stations. But the Basic process Time or BPT in itself cannot be the standard time to set the target for the operator. There will be many interruptions in work that must be considered. Thus main work or task can be classified as primary that which contributes to production and associated task which contributes indirectly to the task such as aligning and placing the work piece on the machine under the presser foot and lowering the presser foot. c) StandardAllowances Certain interruptions are unavoidable during the process of work. Some of these are associated with work such as replacement of needle or replacing empty bobbin with thread loaded bobbin or checking the completed item for defects before disposing to the next operator. Interruptions also occur when the operator goes to the rest room or wipes sweat or goes to drink water which are called as personal allowances. In addition when the operator gets tired due to fatigue caused due to continuous work, the person needs to relax and this is called as fatigue allowance. Due to delay in receiving the component from the previous operation, operator may have to sit idle or when a new style is being loaded there is an idle time which is unavoidable. This is termed as workplace break Delay can also be caused due to personal conversations between operators. Considering all the above causes for interruption, allowances have to be added to the BPT calculated through time study. While about 30 observations are sufficient to calculate BPT, to estimate allowances the number of observations needed are many more. Based on the type of garment and its complexity, allowances can be suggested for simple, average and complex garments. 47