Apparel Production Management Study Guide

Periodic maintenance Machine Maintenance It is carried out by trained mechanic. It requires dismantling the external moving parts of the machine Dusting, removing lint and oiling them Changing the needle, cleaning presser foot, adjusting feed dog movement mechanism Replacing worn out parts Changing needle, presser foot, throat plate for style change Changing machine oil 148

Trainer’s Preventive maintenanceGuide forProcurationManagement Preventive maintenance undertaken at specific intervals. It involves replacing overhauling of the machine Replacement of worn out parts, adjusting all parameters, changing oil are all a pert of preventive maintenance Break down maintenance Breakdown maintenance is when the machine stops working totally. It requires either immediate replacement of parts or machine itself 149

5. Key Phrases / Words that you must remember Machine MaintenanceKey Phrase MeaningMaintenanceGeneral Maintenance It is to keep the machine in working conditionPeriodic maintenance To keep the machine clean and neat by removing lint and dust from sewing area, cleaning oil spills, oiling thePreventive maintenance moving partsBreakdown maintenance Undertaken at scheduled intervals to repair or replaceOiling external worn out partsLintTweezer Undertaken at pre-determined schedule to overhaul theViscosity of oil complete machineFeed dog To attend to repair when machine breaks downThroat plate Applying oil through oiling points Fibres of fabrics. They get stuck to machine parts and prevent its smooth operation A device that hold loose threads The thickness of the oil. The higher the thickness, the better it is Short thin metal bars with diagonal teeth that help move the fabric after each stitch A metal plate beneath the needle and presser foot. The plate has an opening through which the feed dog comes out Notes 150

Trainer’s Common Mistakes most students may commit6.Guide for General Maintenance Not tightening the needle after removing during cleaningProcuration Not adjusting the thread tensionManagement Removing the screw of the throat plate and losing it Brushing the top surface of the sewing area leaving the under surface of needle plate I. Cleaning a Teflon coated feed dog with screw driver or other sharp instrument II. Periodic Maintenance III. Not replacing the worn out parts with substitute or duplicate parts IV. Using machine oil without checking its viscosity V. Not adjusting the feed dog height for the fabric being stitched Oiling in excess of recommended quantity I. II. III. IV. Preventive MaintenanceI. It is to be carried out at specific intervals, but record of last PM not maintainedII. Scheduling maintenance of a line in one unit but undertaking maintenance in another unit without informing the scheduled unit. Wasting production time of the scheduled unit Breakdown MaintenanceI. Immediate solution to breakdown without analysing causeII. Not recording the cause resulting in possible repetition 151

7. Practical Examples Machine MaintenanceGeneral MaintenanceIn a factory practicing 5S or the 5 principles of maintenance – sort, straighten, sweep orshine, standardise, and sustain – the operators clean and brush their machines when theyarrive for work in the morning. The machine mechanic adjusts all the machines in a line forevery new style to be loaded. The attachments required are made available and fixed to themachines as per line plan.However, for a particular pants style the bottom hemming folder was not available and themechanic made no effort to procure on time. This has resulted in a delay in production line.Periodic MaintenanceMachine mechanic in a production unit takes up maintenance at regular intervals. Thisinvolves cleaning external machine parts, replace parts that are worn out and replacemachine oil. All these activities are recorded on a maintenance sheet attached to the machinetogether with the date.Preventive MaintenanceThis is practiced as a part of 5S in almost all the garment factories. A log book is maintainedin the maintenance department where a preventive maintenance or PM schedule ismaintained. To conduct the PM, the maintenance department announces the schedule everymonth and the line supervisors and production manager must release the line scheduled forPM. If the schedule is not announced on the due date, and the department takes up PM, theproduction planning of the unit will be affected.Breakdown MaintenanceIn a pant line, the bartack machine to bartack fly cover at 'j' could not be adjusted. Themachine was not listed in the previous PM since it was moved from another line.The machine had to be replaced with a buttonhole stitching machine with microprocessorcontrol to complete the production.Notes152

Trainer’s Suggested Activity8.Guide forProcurationManagement General Maintenance Go into the production line or into your sewing lab. Select one of the machines in the line. Take a cloth and clean the sewing machine starting with the sewing area, thereafter the table top. Take a brush and wipe the lint collected on the feed dog and throat plate. Check the needle point by touching its tip. If it is rough, that means the needle tip is broken. Check the top thread tension. Clean and remove any lint surrounding the tension. Periodic Maintenance This is usually carried out by a trained mechanic. The closest a fresher can attempt is to open the needle plate or throat plate and reach out to the bobbin case and bobbin. Remove the bobbin case and brush the surface particularly the spring. Brush the hook and clean it with a drop of oil. Replace the bobbin and bobbin case. Place the throat plate and screw it. Lift the machine and brush inside. Preventive and Breakdown Maintenance This is carried out by a trained mechanic. It is not recommended for a fresher to undertake independently. Observe the mechanic as he dismantles the machine and overhauls. Remember the sequence in which the parts are dismantled. If need be note down the sequence. Notes 153

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Unit 16INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING 155

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Unit 16 INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Will learn the difference between Tailor and OperatorII. Learn the Need for TrainingIII. Know to assess the Suitability and Selection of TraineeIV. Learn the Fundamentals of TrainingV. Know the Training Process2. Key ConceptsI. A Tailor is a craftsman and a Trader. An Operator is a trained employee with limited skill.II. Training will reduce the learning curve and increase productivityIII. Identify suitable candidates through tests and select them for trainingIV. Introduce Fundamentals of training such as machines, control of machines and production systemsV. Process of training starts with introduction to machines, their control, paper exercises, threading and finally sewing3. Concepts ExplainedA Tailor is a craftsman and a Trader. An Operator is a trained employee with limitedskillsi. A Tailor joins as an apprentice to a master and learns the craft over a number of years.ii. An Operator is trained in a short period of time for a single or few operations.iii. A tailor does all the work that a apparel production company does from merchandising to delivery of the sewn garment. An operator does only a single operation he or she is trained.iv. Above all a tailor is a self employed where as an operator is employed. 157

Trainer’sGuide for Training will reduce the learning curve and increase productivityProcurationManagement i. A systematic training programme will teach an operation in a short period of time. ii. Untrained operator takes a longer time to perform an operation through learning process while working. iii. A trained operator performs the operation without wasting time in learning. iv. A trained operator thus performs to his or her maximum ability. v. Productivity of a trained operator is therefore high. Identify suitable candidates through tests and select them for training i. A trainee must be selected before training. ii. Suitability of the trainee depends on age, the younger the better from 14 years onwards but not more than 27 years. It's easy to learn new things when you are young. iii. The trainees must not have previous experience. If they have previous experience, they have to unlearn first before they learn. iv. If the trainees had previous experience on pedal or domestic machines, select those with not more than three years experience. Introduce Fundamentals of training such as machines, control of machines and production systems i. A trainee must be selected before training. ii. Suitability of the trainee depends on age, the younger the better from 14 years onwards but not more than 27 years. It's easy to learn new things when you are young. iii. The trainees must not have previous experience. If they have previous experience, they have to unlearn first before they learn. iv. If the trainees had previous experience on pedal or domestic machines, select those with not more than three years experience. 158

Process of training starts with introduction to machines, their control, paper exercises, Industrialthreading and finally sewing Sewing Machinei. Start with demonstration of sewing. Demonstrate the operation and use of presser foot, feed dog, tension guide, bobbin and bobbin case. Operator Trainingii. Teach trainees through demonstration to operate the machine without needle. Teach them how to control machine and its speed. Let them practice.iii. Next teach them how to stitch using needle and thread on paper. Train them to stitch various shapes and sizes. These exercises on paper for a few days will give them practice of accuracy and speed.iv. Teach them to thread the machine. Threading needle and bobbin must be done at a speed.v. Teach and train to stitch various seams on single needle lockstitch machine like straight, circular, zigzag and back tack.vi. Practice using work aids such as folders, templates.vii. Teach and train operating specialised machines – overlock, double needle, flat lock, feed of arm, 4-needle chain stitch.viii. Conduct proficiency test after each concept is taught and trained159

Trainer’s Pictorial Explanation of Concepts4.Guide forProcurationManagement A Tailor is a craftsman and a Trader. An Operator is a trained employee with limited skills A tailor is a craftsman who learnt the craft over a number of years. A tailor performs all the functions of a garment manufacturing unit beginning with merchandising and ending with delivery of finished garment. A tailor is self-employed An operator is trained in one or more skills. He or she is trained to perform an operation at a speed and with accuracy Operator cannot stitch a complete garment Operator is employed Training will reduce the learning curve and increase productivity A tailor is a craftsman who learnt the craft over a number of years. A tailor performs all the functions of a garment manufacturing unit beginning with merchandising and ending with delivery of finished garment. A tailor is self-employed An operator is trained in one or more skills. He or she is trained to perform an operation at a speed and with accuracy Operator cannot stitch a complete garment Operator is employed 160

Identify suitable candidates through tests and select them for training Industrial Sewing Selection of trainees for the operator training Machine programme is based on their passing certain tests. Operator These tests are conducted to determine their Training finger dexterityTest for colour blindness is conductedIntroduce Fundamentals of training such as machines, control of machines and Explain and show the parts of a sewing machine, how it stitches, and stitch formation. Explain and demonstrate machine controlsProduction SystemsExplain the length of each stitch, number of Stitch length X Seam length = Total numberstitches that can be formed in a minute and of stitchesspeed at which they can be formed Machine speed in SPM/60 = SPS No. of stitches / SPS = Sew Time 161

Trainer’sGuide for Process of training starts with introduction to machines, their control, paper exercises,ProcurationManagement Training starts with teaching sewing machine its parts and functions. Paper exercises teach the trainees machine control and accuracy to stitch The trainee starts with threading the single needle lockstitch machine. Following this the trainee is introduced to various stitches on single needle lockstitch machine The trainee after practice on the single needle machine is put to practice on other special machines A proficiency test is conducted to evaluate the skill competence of the trainee and later placed in the production line Notes 162

5. Key Phrases / Words that you must remember Industrial SewingKey Phrase Meaning Machine Operator TrainingISMO Industrial Sewing Machine OperatorTailor A craftsman who can stitch a complete garment aloneOperator One who can perform a single sewing operationPegboard test A test conducted to evaluate the finger movement and coordinationPaper exercise Stitching on a paper as per pattern drawn on it. This improves the speed and accuracyThreading Passing the thread through tension control and needleGrade Operator is evaluated by the proficiency in number of skillsSPM Stitches per minute Notes 163

Trainer’s 6. Common Mistakes most students may commitGuide forProcurationManagement A Tailor is a craftsman and a Trader. An Operator is a trained employee with limited skills i. Expecting an operator to sew a complete garment ii. Asking a sample tailor to work in a production line Training will reduce the learning curve and increase productivity i. Placing a trainee in production line before training is completed Identify suitable candidates through tests and select them for training i. Selecting a person of more than 30 years age ii. Selecting a girl who has more than 3 years experience on manual machines iii. Accepting a trainee without testing Introduce Fundamentals of training such as machines, control of machines and production systems i. Asking a trainee to operate a machine with needle on the very first day ii. Without explaining machine and its parts, asking a trainee to start paper exercises iii. Explaining production system and describing production floor and scaring away the trainee Process of training starts with introduction to machines, their control, paper exercises, threading and finally sewing i. Giving a complex paper exercise without teaching loop and back track ii. Introducing trainee to overlock machine without teaching single needle machine iii. Without teaching threading, asking a trainee to thread a machine Notes 164

7. Practical Examples Industrial SewingA Tailor is a craftsman and a Trader. An Operator is a trained employee with limited Machineskills OperatorIn a garment factory the sample section is arranged by customer. It has also got a production Trainingline for size set and salesman sample making.Due to heavy load of samples of a customer, the sample manager has asked the productionoperators to help in sample making. As they are not used to making complete samples each,the team arranged the samples to be made as in production line.The result was poor samples and a lot of comments from buyer.Training will reduce the learning curve and increase productivityA company wanted to test the effectiveness of its training section. It has asked a set oftrainees to join the production line before they completed training.It resulted in not only slow production but also poor quality and repair work.The remaining trainees joined the production line after completing their training. Theresult was their repair work was minimal and productivity was higher.Identify suitable candidates through tests and select them for trainingIn a factory in Bangalore, operators are selected for training through a systematic testsequence. The tests start with pegboard dexterity, colour blindness test and agility test.The candidates who pass these tests are appointed as trainees and imparted training for a onemonth period. Trainees who are recruited though this process performed better as per the HRofficial of the company. Notes165

Trainer’s Process of training starts with introduction to machines, their control, paper exercises,Guide forProcuration threading and finally sewingManagement After the machine is introduced, the trainees are explained through demonstration how to start the power machine. They are shown how to sit and place the foot on the pedal. They are demonstrated acceleration and braking of the machine using the foot pedal. Trainees are then allowed to practice for a day. The next day trainees are explained the stitch and stitch process. They are taught to stitch on paper. Movement of fingers, hands and machine control are practiced. Start and stop and start, turn are practiced by stitching circles, rectangles, waves, straight line and a combination of these. They use machines without thread for these exercises. Next in the training is threading a machine. After practicing threading of a single needle lockstitch machine, the trainees are taught stitches and how they are formed. They are explained simple stitch, lap stitch, fell stitch and their variations. The trainees practice these stitches for s few days until they acquire proficiency. Trainees are then taught stitching a collar, cuff, front placket, pocket, and sleeve placket. These parts preparation are practiced for duration one week to ten days. Trainees are then taught to practice the parts preparation and time their speed. A proficiency test is conducted at the end of the training. Notes 166

8. Suggested Activity Industrial SewingA Tailor is a craftsman and a Trader. An Operator is a trained employee with limited Machineskills OperatorGo into sample section. Observe a sample tailor. Notice that he starts with a collar and Trainingstitches the complete garment alone.Go to the production line and observe how operators work.You will notice the difference between tailor and operator.Training will reduce the learning curve and increase productivityIn a production line you will find some operators working on simpleoperations taking more time to sew. Ask them the reason. You will get theanswer – they joined without training and learning to stitch.Other operators doing similar work are faster, reason they are trained before they joined theline.Identify suitable candidates through tests and select them for trainingTake a pegboard and place it on a table. Note the time in your watch and start picking eachpeg with your left hand and place it in one of the holes with your right hand. Note the time.Complete the process by placing all the pegs in their holes. Check your time. This gives thespeed of your pegboard test.Introduce Fundamentals of training such as machines, control of machines andproduction systemsGo to your class and explain to your classmates the fundamentals. Start with the singleneedle lockstitch machine and explain its parts.Process of training starts with introduction to machines, their control, paper exercises,threading and finally sewingGo to sewing lab and switch on a sewing machine. Take the printed paper exercise sheetsand stitch with needle in the machine. You must stitch on the printed design. Practice thisexercise a few times.Then thread the machine and place a bobbin with thread. Start stitching on fabric the samedesigns you have stitched on paper.Next stitch fell seam and lap seam.167

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Unit 17COMPUTER BASED SYSTEMS 169

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Unit 17 COMPUTER BASED SYSTEMS1. Learning outcome for the student willI. learn the concept of mass productionII. understand the need for planning various activities in a garment production companyIII. learn the role of PPCIV. role of computers in production planning2. Key ConceptsI. Made-to-order to Ready-to-WearII. Planning as a toolIII. Production planning and coordinationIV. Computer software for planning3. Concepts ExplainedMade-to-Order to Ready-to-Wear –I. Garment industry emerged from made-to-order tailoring of garments for individual customers where a tailor stitched garments according to their personal requirementsII. Fabric is supplied by the customer, measurements of the customer are taken by the tailor and fabric is cut according to the measurements and desired shape. Garment is stitched and delivered to the customer.III. However, with industrialisation garment designs have transformed to suit the work environment.IV Tailors thought it fit to make a few more garments of their customers' sizes which are readily sold to others if they were fitting.V. This trend developed into a ready-to-wear garment industryVI. Small tailors have grown into large retailers sourcing readymade garments from across the world 171

Trainer’s Planning as a Tool –Guide forProcurationManagement I. Large retailers place production orders with garment manufacturers who need to source fabrics and trims. II. Garment manufacturers need to work under high pressure to maintain delivery dates. III. This requires planning – pre-production and production IV. Pre-production planning involves scheduling sample making and their approvals; fabric sourcing, production and delivery; trims sourcing, production and delivery V. Production planning relates to capacity required for the order; types of machines required; line plan; machine layout; attachments and folders required; cutting schedule; and finishing plan. VI. To make the plan feasible and practical, a Time and Action plan needs to be prepared. VII. Production Planning and Coordination department is responsible to coordinate activities of all the departments and functions in the organisation. Production Planning & Coordination (PPC) I. Maintain an inventory of all machines available with the company and maintain skill inventory of all operators working in the company II. Prepare statement of available capacity by product at the beginning of each season and circulate the information to concerned departments III. Coordinate with all the departments concerned and collect relevant information or data on new styles booked for the season. IV. Prepare the Time and Action Plan for each style and department and circulate to all concerned. Monitor and update the TnA regularly. Alert when there are slides. V. Allocate machine time per style, prepare manpower and machine budget per style Calculate cost per minute. VI. Calculate and prepare cutting schedule per style. Prepare production plan by style and allocate resources. VII. Collect daily cutting reports, sewing reports and finishing reports. Prepare a daily summary and monitor status with reference to the planned schedule. Highlight deviations in schedule. Send alert reports when necessary to management and concerned departments. In addition most of the garment manufacturers have multiple production units at multiple locations. 172

Computer software for Planning Computer BasedI. The data collection and management in the garment industry is a major task. It is not only the volumes of data but also its volatility that makes the work of PPC Systems challenging.II. Most of the companies are connected through computer network; and each department creates, updates and maintains its data.III. Numerous application softwares are available for the purpose of data collection, its management and planning. More popular among these – SAP, FAST REACT, PLAN- IT, STAGE, PRO-PLAN and REACH PLANNER & SCHEDULERIV. Software packages like REACH Sewing Data Bank (RSDB) and REACH Planner and Scheduler (RPS) assist the PPC in data collection at its source in each department.V. This data calculates the capacity, cost per minute, overhead costs, finances required per style for material and labour.VI. It assists in materials purchase by cost comparison; quantity required by width and estimated date of requirement.VII. It calculates the machine requirement based on the data entered and prepares the skill matrix of suitable operators for the style. Line plan and machine layout are prepared using the software. Inventory of attachments and folders is prepared for each style.VIII. Operation bulletin and target per operation is set by the system. This is measured against daily production; and incentives and overtime are computed on its basis. monitoredIX. Style data – daily cuttings, embroidery, sewing, finishing, washing, ironing and packing are collected. Variance analysis is prepared by time and cost.X. The system is ready for the next style as previous style moves into production. The schedule is followed for each style. Notes173

Trainer’s Pictorial Explanation of Concepts4.Guide forProcuration Made-to-Order to Ready-to-WearManagement Traditional tailoring to stitch made-to-order garments moved over to ready-to-wear garment making Tailors made garments supplied by customers after Customer's measurements Ready-to-wear started when tailors made more than one garment and sold to other customers who liked their fit From made-to-order, tailors turned to make ready- to-wear manufacturers. Increase in demand turned tailors to source manufacturing facilities across the world. The readymade garment industry came into existence and small tailors grew into large retailers 174

Planning as a Tool Computer Based Large retailers work with manufacturers and place their orders Systems across the world for garment production Garment manufacturers source raw materials and plan production for garment delivery on time Garment manufacturing involves intense planning and execution to be able to deliver Many internal departments and external agencies are involved production and manufacture of garments Planning the production and coordinating with all concerned departments is vital to meet the delivery date The Production Planning & Coordination Department is responsible for planning and coordination 175

Trainer’s Production Planning & Coordination (PPC)Guide forProcurationManagement Maintain inventory of machines and skills of manpower and calculate production capacity available Collect information on new styles from all departments concerned, analyse and prepare the Time and Action Plan for each department Coordinate sample deliveries and approvals; fabric and trims purchase and delivery Plan production by style and line, machine requirement and machine layout and work aids required 176

Computer Based SystemsPrepare cut plan and material inspectionscheduleCollect daily information from alldepartments and preparedaily production report, make alerts for anydelays, estimate costvariance and unit cost. Make style wiseprofitability statement Notes177

Trainer’s Computer software for PlanningGuide forProcurationManagement Computer network through the various departments for easy access of information Application Software such as SAP, FAST REACT, PLAN-IT, STAGE and REACH PLANNER & SCHEDULER for data collection, planning and management of great assistance to PPC All information required by PPC is constantly updated by each department Tools like RSDB and RSP project the capacity available and assist in building TnA for each style Total capacity planning including maintaining data bank of machine and work aids inventory, available skills by employee and line wise skill matrix are constantly updated 178

Computer Based SystemsCalculate standard time for every stylereceived. Maintain data bank ofstandard times of all styles and operationsMaterial purchase and delivery schedule isprepared and concerneddepartments are alertedCut plan, lay plan and daily cuttingcapacity are scheduled andmonitoredPrepare operation bulletin for each styleincluding machine layout andset target for each operation and garmentDaily production report by style andactivities including material inspection,cutting, sewing, finishing, ironing andpacking are generated Style wiseproduction time and cost is generated andvariance reports prepared and circulated.Style wise profitability report is madeavailable to the concerneddepartments 179

Trainer’s Key Phrases / Words that you must rememberGuide forProcurationManagement Key Phrase Meaning Pre-production All activities that precede production including merchandising, sample making, fabric and trim procurement PPC Production Planning and Coordination – a key function that oversees, coordinates and alerts all departments of their tasks TnA Time and Action Plan which assigns or allocates time required for an activity. All tasks related to a style from the customer order (PO) to product delivery Standard time The time taken by a basic operator to complete an Operation Bulletin operation A list of operations to be performed in a sequence to stitch a garment together with the machines and folders required and the standard time for each operation Cut Plan It is prepared based on a style order that gives instructions on quantity to be cut, number of parts in the style, sizes, fabric width, end bits and utilisation Daily Production report It is prepared by the PPC and gives details of each style / PO in production and will have number of cuttings, production quantity by line, WIP, finish quantity, ironed quantity, packed quantity and shipped quantity Notes 180

5. Common Mistakes most students may commit Computer BasedPlanning as a tool SystemsI. Often new recruits in merchandising consider the number of days given for production and delivery of an order more than adequate and do not start planningII. Estimating approximate output for a line and basing all activities on itProduction planning and coordinationI. Merchandiser planning the pre-production and production activities alone without assistance of PPC, thus creating a misunderstandingII. PPC planning the production without communicating to merchandisingIII. Sourcing executive not informing the delay in opening LC to PPC but confirming fabric delivery dateIV. FPT report failed but merchandiser does not inform PPC to revise production scheduleComputer software for planningI. Depending on the ERP software to plan all activities with incomplete dataII. Using data from all departments without verifying its reliabilityIII. Giving out production capacity available to merchandiser without deducting booked capacityIV Not entering data concerning all available machines and notifying as missing machines for a planned production line Notes181

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Unit 18APPAREL PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT I 183

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Unit 18 APPAREL PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT I1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Know all the departments in garment manufacturing companyII. Understand the functioning of each department2. Key ConceptsI. Garmenting as a manufacturing activityII. Create organizational structureIII. Define function and role of each department3. Concepts ExplainedGarmenting as a manufacturing activityi. Individual clothiers or tailors made garments to order exclusively to a customer. Industrialization and urbanization made it necessary to make ready garments for prospective customers. From few garments in number these made ready garments fast grew to adequate volumes requiring the tailor to establish a production line to sew these garments.ii. Measurements for different size people got standardized over a time particularly during American Civil War. Brookes Brothers initiated the transformation from made to order to ready made garments.iii. Demand for ready made garments increased thus their production in assembly lines picked up. Increasing costs forced these tailoring entrepreneurs to move from cities to rural areas to continue their production activities.iv. When production anywhere in the USA and other Western countries had become too expensive, these retailers turned to other countries for timely supply of their garments.v. Mass production of garments became popular and the manufacturing facilities fast spread across the world.vi. Many of the production related responsibilities moved from retailer or buyer to manufacturer.vii. Apparel supply chain was created 185

Trainer’s Create Organisational StructureGuide forProcurationManagement i. Large retailers who transformed from tailoring shops to retail business transitioned from production and selling to buying and selling – retail showrooms and buying offices. ii. Garment manufacturers, to handle the large volumes of work, structured their businesses into various functional departments. iii. The concept of marketing and production management entered the garment manufacturing business. A hierarchical model evolved. Hitherto, all these functions were managed by the entrepreneur. iv. Production in the garment industry had become modern with introduction of management concepts and technology. v. Production operations assumed a process flow and the various functional departments managed the various stages production processes. Define function and role of each department i. All facilities involved in production are brought under Factory management. These include stores to packing and delivery. ii. Factory management is responsible to guide the various departments. It has a set of sections to plan, administer, operate through industrial engineering, maintain machines, house keep, settle accounts, and organizes manpower. iii. Stores are where all raw materials are received, checked and inspected and stored. iv. Cutting as the name suggests receives fabric from store, check and cut according to cut plan. v. Production department is entrusted with the responsibility to sew, finish and pack garments. vi. Sample department is assigned the task of making samples as per the customer's designs. Notes 186

4. Pictorial Explanation of Concepts Apparel productionA Tailor is a craftsman and a Trader. An Operator is a trained employee with limited Management IskillsCustomized garments to ready madegarments changed the business of tailoring.Customized measurements to standardizesmeasurements paved the way for massproductionIncreased cost of production in Westerncountries drove mass producing garmentfactories to Asian countriesRetail customers passed on their productionrelated responsibilities to manufacturersApparel supply chain developed 187

Trainer’sGuide for Create Organizational StructureProcurationManagement Tailoring transformed into retailing with an organizational structure – retail showrooms and buying offices Large volume garment manufacturing became organized from single entrepreneur to structured hierarchical organizations Production introduced to technology and management concepts PROCESS FLOW IN APPAREL INDUSTRY DESIGNER CONSUMER BUYER VENDOR TECH SAMPLING SAM & MERCHANT PACK & IE SAMPLE STYLE FABRIC SAMPLING VENDOR PO BUYER VENDOR MILL MERCHANT MERCHANT Production is seen as process flow with SOURCING BULK various functional departments aiding the FABRIC processes FABRIC APPROVAL SWATCH BULK BULK LAB TESTS, COTTON FABRIC FABRIC I-N REPORTS & SPINNING APPROVALS WEAVING HOUSE EMBROIDERY PROCESSING BUNDLING & & PRINTING FINISHING NUMBERING SEWING FABRIC CUT PLAN & CHECKING & INSPECTION CUTTING TRIMMING CONSUMER FINISHING & IRONING STORE DELIVERY DOCUMENTS FINAL WAREHOUSE TO INSPECTION TAGGING & PACKING FORWARDER 188

Process of training starts with introduction to machines, their control, paper exercises, Apparelthreading and finally sewing production Management IFactory management is assisted and guidedby specialized sectionsStores department manages fabric and trimsas per production order Production department has four sections – cutting, sewing, finishing and packing 189

Trainer’s Key Phrases / Words that you must rememberGuide for5.ProcurationManagement Key Phrase Meaning Retail showroom Where garments are displayed and sold to customers Buying office Office of retail buyer who buys for retail sale Organisation A group of people work in a structured way Factory management Responsible for the overall functioning of the factory Customised measurements Measurements of a specific object or customer Apparel supply chain From fabric to garment to customer is supply chain Notes 190

6. Common Mistakes most students may commit Apparel productionI. Garmenting as a manufacturing activity Management I- Common mistake of assuming that garment manufacture requires many pre- production activities unlike tailoring.II. Create Organizational Structure- Forgetting that a hierarchy exists in the organization because the senior management speaks in a friendly manner.- Trying to break protocol between departments and sections.- Not following established operating procedures.- Failing to maintain written communication or correspondenceIII. Define function and role of each departmenti. Merchandising department instead of sourcing department requesting for opening of L/c on fabric supplier.ii. PPC not updating machine inventory leading to wrong alerts from IEiii. Merchandiser not sending PCD meet request to IEiv. Production department starting cutting without pilot production approvalNotes191

Trainer’s 7. Practical ExamplesGuide for Garmenting as a manufacturing activityProcuration The merchandiser receives a tech pack from the buyer to make sample prior to bulkManagement production. After approval the PO is received for manufacture and supply of 20 garments in 4 sizes. I. The quantity is too small for production in a sewing line and large for production in sample department. The order is accepted with an understanding that customer will i. pay thrice the production cost as each garment is made by a sample tailor. In manufacturing minimum quantities for production must be observed otherwise they II. cannot be made. Create Organizational Structure & Define function and role of each department i. A meeting was organized in the factory manager's office. All sections reporting to the FM attended the meeting. However, sample department did not attend the meeting. The sample department which was reporting to the FM was re-organised and was instructed to report to merchandising department. ii. Store department reports and works under the FM. After inspection of fabric for a style, the quality assurance department, prepared its report and submitted to the merchandising and stores. The FM was not given a copy, there by could not order for cut plan. An unnecessary protocol that delayed production. Notes 192

8. Suggested Activity Apparel productionGarmenting as a manufacturing activity Management I Take fabric sufficient for a shirt to a tailor and ask him to stitch you a shirt. He will take your measurements and make a shirt for you. Take fabric sufficient for about 6 shirts. Give him a measurement chart and ask him to make the shirts. He will not accept the order. He is used to making shirt as per physical measurements personally taken. The measurement chart is accepted by garment making company but it will not accept as the order quantity is too small. Note the difference between personal measurements and standard measurements.Create Organizational Structure Draw the organizational structure of a garment export company and its departments by function. Define hierarchies in the organization.Define function and role of each department Go to the HR department in a garment company. Request for organizational structure of the production units in the company and job descriptions of each function in it.Notes193

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Unit 19APPAREL PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT II 195

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Unit 19 Learner's Guide for Apparel Production Management II1. Learning outcome for the studentI. Student will get an overview of apparel production processII. Student will learn the functions of each department in a garment manufacturing unitIII. Student will learn the various stages of raw material conversion from fabric to finished garment2. Key ConceptsI. Fabric InspectionII. Marker and its efficiencyIII. Fabric cutting and cut parts preparationIV. Production systems & Machine layoutV. Finishing & PackingVI. Quality Assurance vs. Quality Control3. Concepts ExplainedSTORESFabric Inspectioni. Fabrics received for each order are checked for width, approved colour and shade and shrinkageii. Representative number , usually 10-25 percent depending on the quantity ordered, of fabric rolls is inspected for weaving and yarn defects and damagesiii. Defects are measured by their length and extent in each roll inspected and assigned penalty points, the longest defect attracting greater pointiv. Defects are classified into major and minor, ensuring that only accepted standard of quality fabric is processed and forwarded to the next stage – cuttingv. Fabric rolls are sorted by width, shrinkage and shade and are issued by each sort or lot 197