Apparel Production Management Study Guide

Trainer’s Marker EfficiencyGuide forProcurationManagement i. The marker is a long sheet of paper that has all parts of a garment drawn on it ii. There can be different sizes of garments with all their parts drawn on a marker with the help of computer software called CAD iii. Two dimensions of markers – Blocked marker contains all pattern parts of a garment of one or two sizes; Continuous marker contains all pattern parts of all sizes iv. Two types of markers – open marker containing full widths of all pattern parts; closed marker contains half widths of all parts used in tube knit fabrics v. Marker efficiency means utilisation of fabric, the greater the utilisation the higher the marker efficiency which is calculated by – Area of patterns in the marker plan ÷ Total area of the marker plan X 100% Fabric Cutting & cut parts preparation i. The cutting operations are the beginning of the apparel production process. ii. Laying fabrics following the fabric weave direction (grain line) is important to maintain uniform colour and shade. In case of napped fabrics like corduroy the pile must be smooth. iii. Fabric laying & cutting follows a Fabric Cut Plan that takes into account the fabric report, quantity to be cut, utilisation and finally prioritises production order wise cutting. iv. Cut part physical checking, sorting, and numbering are followed according to the Fabric Cut Plan v. Parts that need fusing, printing or embroidery are dispatched from cutting section and finished parts received before sending to sewing section Fabric Cutting & cut parts preparation i. Standard Time is calculated and established for each operation based on its work content, method employed to operate and time taken to complete a single operation (from picking cut part placing and performing sewing operation and disposing the finished part). An addition of all operations gives the garment standard time ii. There are 7 Production Systems. But common systems used in India are -Progressive Bundle System and Unit Production 198

iii. Progressive Bundle needs to be laid out operation wise one behind or beside the other Apparel productionand the cuttings move in a bundle of 10 or 12 Management IIiv. In the Unit Production single cutting moves from one operator to the nextvi. Feeding helper hands over cuttings (bundle or single unit) to the operators as per operation bulletin that lists out each operation, its standard time, machine type, work aid, daily target and hourly targetvi. As individual parts move forward, they are assembled into garments, checked and dispatched to finishing section. Garments for wash go from here to wash sectionFinishing & Packingi. Garments from sewing section and wash are received, checked and trimmed.ii. They are sorted by shade, and moved further for buttoning and pressingiii. Garments are ironed as per buyer's instructions and folded – different folds for different garments using prescribed packing materialsiv. Types of packing – carton, hanger -in carton, store ready hanger – depending on mode of transport sea or airFinishing & Packingi. Garments from sewing section and wash are received, checked and trimmed.ii. They are sorted by shade, and moved further for buttoning and pressingiii. Garments are ironed as per buyer's instructions and folded – different folds for different garments using prescribed packing materialsiv. Types of packing – carton, hanger -in carton, store ready hanger – depending on mode of transport sea or airFinishing & Packingi. Garments from sewing section and wash are received, checked and trimmed.ii. They are sorted by shade, and moved further for buttoning and pressingiii. Garments are ironed as per buyer's instructions and folded – different folds for different garments using prescribed packing materialsiv. Types of packing – carton, hanger -in carton, store ready hanger – depending on mode of transport sea or air199

Trainer’sGuide for Quality Assurance vs. ControlProcurationManagement i. All processes are checked from fabric inspection to packing by a host of checkers in each department ii. Checking output at every stage and returning for corrections is Control. Output at each sewing station is checked for defective seams, stitches and other mistakes iii. Auditing the finished product at key operations is quality assurance iv. Packed garments are checked through a process of quality acceptance. Usually the quality audit follows accepted quality levels or standards (AQL) of the customer. AQL standard refers to a number which indicates the number of garments that can be rejected for every hundred. v. Defects in garments are categorised as major, minor and critical based on their location or zone. Garments with critical defects are rejected while those with major defects are classified as seconds. Garments with minor defects need to be corrected Notes 200

4. Pictorial Explanation of Concepts Apparel productionFabric Inspection Management IIFabric Inspection is carried out manually. This is not the proper method as some defects maynot be visible without appropriate lightingUsing fabric inspection table as in the picture offers illumination from the back of the glasstable highlighting the defects. The fabric unwinds at the back of the table and winds on toanother roller on the front at controlled speed. 201

Trainer’sGuide forProcurationManagement The Fabric Inspection Report details each defect and the penalty point given to it. The roll wise inspection report records the width weight, shade difference and length of the roll Inspected fabrics are sorted by production order number, assigned lot number based on the width and shade variations which are further sorted by shrinkage Notes 202

Marker and its efficiency ApparelCAD pattern is made for a single garment. production Management IIA marker with 3 sizes. Compare with single size and notice fabric utilisationAbove is a marker with more than 4 sizes which has efficiently utilised fabric with leastwastage 203

Trainer’s Fabric Cutting & Cut Parts PreparationGuide forProcurationManagement Fabric is spread manually in this factory. The manual spreading requires more number of workers and is slow In many large units fabric is spread using automatic spreaders which can spread faster and accurately Fabric cutting is performed using vertical cutting machines 204

Apparel production Management IIAutomatic cutting machines are used for accurate and efficient cutting.Cut parts are bundled and numbered in preparation for sewingCut parts that need to be fused like collar, cuff, placket are fused before the cut bundles aresent to sewing 205

Trainer’sGuide for Production Systems & machine LayoutProcurationManagement SAM is the standard time calculated for a given operation in the sewing section. Timings fir each operation cycle is recorded using stopwatch Progressive bundle system machine layout based on operations in a garment Notes 206

Apparel production Management IIUnit production system often uses conveyors to move garment parts from one station toanotherFinished garments are checked at the end of the sewing line before they are moved tofinishing section 207

Trainer’s Finishing & PackingGuide forProcurationManagement Garments are checked, trimmed and ironed using vacuum boards and dry steam Form finishers are used in some factories to iron shirts, pants and jeans Ironed and pressed garments are folded and packed with tags and price tickets appropriately placed 208

Apparel production Management IIGarments are packed in cartons or on hangersCartons are marked and shipped by ocean freighters or by air. Garments on hangers isanother method of shipment- called store-ready packing Notes 209

Trainer’sGuide for Finishing & PackingProcurationManagement This old advertisement reveals the concept of quality assurance. Quality control through the various operations from fabric inspection to cutting. 210

Apparel production Management IIEnd table checking for measurements, seams and stitches in the sewing section beforegarments are moved to finishing sectionGarment checking for lose threads & trimming them to make ready for ironing in thefinishing sectionGarment inspection and packing 211

Trainer’s Key Phrases / Words that you must remember5.Guide forProcurationManagement Notes 212

6. Common Mistakes most students may commit Apparel productionFabric Inspection Management IIi. The inspection procedure is ignored under pressure of time when fabrics are received lateii. Incorporation of shrinkage results of the 60 cms bits in the report and analysing them separatelyiii. Not recording the width of every fabric but only of the sample rollsiv. Making the shade bands by observing the shades in direct sunlightv. Inspecting fabrics without adequate light on regular tablesMarker & Marker Efficiencyi. Unit of measure not recorded thereby leading to a difference in consumptionii. Not recording the exact width of fabric resulting in an error in marker and consumptioniii. Direction of grain or nap being not followed while preparing a markeriv. Preparing a marker without marking print placementv. Not grading print or embroidery size and placement in the marker particularly for children's garmentsvi. Not documenting shrinkage allowance required while placing market indentFabric Cutting & Cut Part Preparationi. Making a cut plan before receiving fabric inspection reportii. Not allowing fabric to relax thereby causing shrinkage after cuttingiii. Spreading fabric without separator sheet when different lots of fabric are laid on same tableiv. Fabric for sleeve placket being cut without matching to the bodyv. Making a mistake over setting time and temperature of fusing machinevi. Fusing fabric with interlining without testing its bond strengthvii. Making cut bundles without the marker partviii. End bit details not recorded, hence cannot be used in case a replacement is needed 213

Trainer’s Production Systems & Machine layoutGuide forProcurationManagement Not conducting a style handover meeting i. ii. Receiving more than one approved sample leading to confusion iii. Commencing production without pilot run iv. Commencing production without size label v. Sending parts for replacement without documenting the roll and lot numbers vi. Not setting the SPI before commencing production vii. Operators not being sensitised to new fabrics before commencing production viii. Searching for work aids after loading a style in production line ix. Confused about the size and number of the needle to be used to stitch the fabric x. Mix up about ticket and tex of thread xi. Not sealing size and wash care label in PP bag for denim garments with wash Finishing & Packing i. Excessive trimming leading to garment damage ii. Using water and soap to remove blood stains iii. Using mechanical snap fixing machine and damaging garments iv. Fixing snaps without washers v. Not ironing on the reverse for sensitive fabrics vi. Tagging garments at wrong place Quality Assurance vs. QC i. Using the first specs (unrevised) to check measurements ii. Checking garment for construction on table without using body form iii. Confused in referring shade band to finished garment iv. Indecision on fabric quality when there is high rejection due to defects v. Conforming wash standard referring to a single sample vi. Not verifying after wash shade of thread colour 214

7. Practical Examples Apparel productionFabric Inspection Management IIAll fabric that is received in the garment factory for example must be checked for anydefects otherwise garments will be produced with the defects. In a company fabric for Nike was received and the QAD inspected 10% of the fabric which is about 600 meters. They found that the fabric had shade variation within each roll and markedas major defect.Other defects found in the fabric were holes and broken yarns. The fabric report wasprepared and analysed. None of the fabric was useable and the Nike was informed and freshfabric was ordered. If the fabric were not inspected, garments would have been stitched and rejected. The cost ofrejection would have closed the company.Marker & Marker EfficiencyA techpack was received by merchandiser and CAD was requested to prepare a mid-sizepattern for estimating consumption which was 1.55 meters.When the order was received for the style, patterns were graded for all sizes and a markerwas prepared. With intelligent planning, fabric consumption was reduced to 1.50 meters forthe same width.After the fabric inspection was completed, the marker was revised once again to incorporateshrinkage. The new marker was efficiently planned as result consumption on the cuttingtable was reduced to 1.47 meters.As a result fabric was left over and with approval of the buyer, additional garment were cutand made.Marker efficiency can lead to not just savings but additional revenue to the company.Fabric cutting and cut parts preparationA dyed canvas fabric was ordered for a jacket order in a company. When inspected no shadevariation was found. Based on the report, fabric was spread and cut as per marker, bundledand issued to production.After sewing, garments were sent for wash. Shade variations were found between garmentsand they had to be sorted by shade, finished and packed.If the cuttings were numbered and issued by each lay, this could have been avoided 215

Trainer’s Production systems & Machine layoutGuide forProcurationManagement In a shirt factory, bundle system is followed. Bundles of 10 cuts move between workstations. Based on the SAM of the operation, the work is completed and moves to the next workstation. The garment SAM is 18 minutes. But one of the operations has a SAM of 1.00 minute. The operations before and after it are timed 0.35 and 0.20 minutes. Due to the difference in the SAM while the predecessor operation takes 3.50 minutes, the long operation takes 10.00 minutes and the successive operation takes 2.00 minutes. The waiting time for the last operator is 3.50 + 10.00 = 13.50 minutes. The waiting time or operator idle time is greater in bundle system. This system on the other hand can keep workers occupied all the time. Therefore one must balance the timings of all the operations so that bottlenecks can be reduced if not eliminated. Line balancing is an important task in progressive bundle system. However, in unit production system each garment part moves through the sewing line, thereby the waiting time of each operator is equal to the SAM of the previous operator. Considering the above example, the last operator had to wait for 0.35+1.00 =1.35 minutes instead of 13.50 minutes. Thus in any system of production, waiting time or idle time cannot be eliminated totally but can be reduced or modified. Using method study, operators can be re-trained and machines can be laid out in different ways to reduce pick up time between operations. Finishing & Packing A micro-fabric suede finished ladies blouse had to be packed in a factory. The fabric being heavy, after pressing and packing when the measurements were checked, the centre back length of the garment was more than the tolerance given. In fact it was almost 2 inches more. The finishing supervisor understood the problem and immediately ordered that all garments sewn the previous day must be put on hangers and left overnight. By doing so, due to own weight, the fabric sagged and distended at the hem of the garment, thus increasing the centre back and centre front lengths. The sagged garments are trimmed to the desired length and hemmed and finished. Finishing is important considering that it is the final stage of production before a packed garment is presented to the consumer in the store. Quality Assurance vs. Quality Control In a factory producing casual trousers, for a certain production order, two different plies of thread were used. While the topstitch thread was 3-ply, the bobbin thread used was 2-ply. 216

The garment had a wash programme. After the wash all garments developed defects in many Apparelof their seams, particularly where there are more than two plies of fabrics. Many of these productionseams were broken. The cause for this was the use of different plies of thread. Management IIQuality assurance in an organisation can be practiced only if the top management believes ingiving a quality product or service to the customer.Notes217



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