ท่องเที่ยววิถีชนเผ่า งานศิลป์ถิ่นสนุก

Agricultural Tourism BITS OF KNOWLEDGE Agricultural tourism is an activity aims at awareness raising towards local agriculture, culture, and traditional livelihood of particular communities. It also promotes the utilization of natural resources that generates income to community and local farmers. The agricultural tourism both promotes tourism business yet conserves natural environment in communities for later generations. The agricultural tourism activities usually involve visit to agricultural spots such as farm, orchards, agro forestry, herb garden, livestock and pet farm. Besides enjoying the beauty of the farm, visitors will be educated and fostered the good sense towards natural conservation in community too. SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 029

Sakon Nakhon - Nakhon Phanom - Khammouane, Laos PDR, Nakhon Phanom (4 days, 3 nights) DAY 1, SAKON NAKHON DAY 2, NAKHON PHANOM Morning -Arrive at Sakon Nakhon Airport Morning -Visit the Lotus and Waterlily -Pay respect to Phra That Garden Cheong Chum Chedi in -Visit to 100-year-old ancient Mueang Sakon Nakhon District mansion in Tha Rae District, -Visit Wat Tham Pha Dan photo session (Pha Dan Grotto Temple), -Lunch at local restaurant pay respect to Chedi and Buddha’s footprint, Afternoon -Visit Ho Chi Minh Memorial experiencing the bird’s-eye view and Thai-Vietnamese Friendship of Sakon Nakhon town Village -Visit to “Fhai Poh” or Father’s -Bicycle road trip along dam trekking trails within Mekong River enjoy the scenic Phu Phan Development beauty of Nakhon Phanom Learning Centre and see best three “black products” Evening -Bicycle road trip to local of Phu Phan walking street by Mekong River -Lunch at local restaurant and enjoy street food -Dinner at local restaurant Afternoon -Visit Fan Ajaro Museum, -Pay respect to Phaya Wat Pa Udom Somphon, Si Satta Nagara Panna Nikhom District (Sacred Naga) / -Pay respect to Phra That boat trip Phu Pek Chedi situated on -Arrive at hotel the peak of Phu Pan mountain with 491 stairs steps Evening -Visit Indigo weekend street (the street showcasing traditional handmade fabric) -Dinner at local restaurant -Arrive at hotel 030 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

DAY 3, KHAMMOUANE, DAY 4, NAKHON PHANOM LAOS PDR Morning -Visit Khun Kong Leang Morning -En-route to the 3rd Thai-Lao enjoying the beautiful natural Friendship Bridge scenery. -Pay respect to Phra That -En-route to the Kot Bong at Thakhek city, 3rd Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, Khammouane province. return to Nakhon Phanom -Visit Wat Phra Sien Yai, pay Afternoon -Take your “best” shot at respect to the main Buddha tourist viewpoint, the image, Phra Sien Yai of 3rd Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge Nongbok city -Taking tram along Afternoon -Visit Nong Pa Pha Grotto, Mekong River pay respect to Buddha images -Arrive at Nakhon Phanom located in Nong Pa Pha Cave, Airport -Visit Nang An cave, one of the most beautiful caves in Laos PDR. Evening -Arrive at hotel SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 031

Sakon Nakhon Nakhon Phanom Fan Ajaro Museum 22 22 Lotus and Waterlilly Garden 2016 Tha Rae Village (Catholic Community) 22 Sakon Nakhon Airport Phra That Phu Pek Chedi 2347 241 Phra That Cheong Chum Chedi Kram Walking Street Phu Phan Development 2339 233 Learning Centre Wat Tham Pha Dan 032 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Khun Kong Leang Mekong River 212 The 3rd Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge 212 Nang An Cave Nakhon Phanom Airport Phaya Si Satta Nagara Nong Pa Pha Cave (Sacred Naga) 22 Ho Chi Minh Memorial Phra That Kot Bong Wat Phra Sien Yai 22 212 Laos PDR Mekong River 212 223 212 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 033

Entrance to Laos PDR via land portation route in the east part of this region port and duration of stay starting from Da Nang (Vietnam), Savannakhet, Via the 2nd Thai-Lao Friendship Bride (Mukdahan – Savannakhet) Mukdahan, en-route to the west part border at The bridge, located at Ban Song Puai, Mae Sot, Mywaddy and ends at Mawlamyine Tambon Sai Yai, Mukdahan and Savannakhet City in Myanmar. Visitors can take international Province of Laos PDR is part of the key trans- bus service to Lao border via the Friendship Bridge (fee is 45 Thai Baht) and are liable to pay the entrance fee when entering Laos PDR. The fees are the following: 1) Passport holders 20 Thai Baht (weekdays) and 40 Thai Baht (weekends) 2) Border Pass and Temporary Border Pass 50 Thai Baht (weekdays) and 100 Thai Baht (weekends). The international bus service stop/platform is located near the bridge entrance. Via the 3rd Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge (Nakhon Phanom - Khammouane) Officially opened for public use in late B.E. 2554 (2011), connecting Nakhon Phanom (at Ban Hom, Tambon At Samat, Mueang Nakhon Phanom District)) of Thailand and Khammouane (at Ban Vern Tai in Thakhek city) of Laos PDR. This bridge is used as a main route for commercial, logistic and tour- ism activities connecting people in Thailand, Laos PDR, Vietnam and southern China, the approximate length of the route is 780 Kilome- ters. This is also the shortest route connecting Thailand to Vietnam and China as it leads to the Vietnam’s sea port in Vung Ang as well as Nanning in China which usually takes just an overnight ride. Visitors from Thailand can drive to Khammouane with presence of passport and new passport can be issued at Nakhon Phanom’s Provincial Transportation Office. Travel document required for entrance to Laos PDR via Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge 034 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Ordinary people, Vehicles BITS OF KNOWLEDGE general visitors Valid Border Pass for vehicles Valid passport for citizen of Thailand, Laos PDR. Citizen of the with signs or information on country third country or Thai nationality can of origin clearly presented on the vehicle obtain temporary passport at the (passport for automobile). The Border Government Office in Ubon Rat- Pass can be obtained at Mukdahan chathani and Khon Kaen province. Provincial Transportation Office or au- thorized offices. Temporary Border Pass (single entry) for Thai citizens of all origin. This Presence of car insurance for type of border pass allows citizens the duration of stay in Khammouane to travel not exceeding 3 days and 2 nights with presence of supporting and Savannakhet according to Lao document; copy if national identification transport regulations. card, 2 of 1-inch size headshot photo and fee of 30 Thai Baht. Duration of stay Border Pass (multiple entry, valid Thai nationals with presence of for 1 year) is only allowed for Thai citizens Temporary Border Pass or Border Pass with origin in Nakhon Phanom and can stay in Savannakhet for not exceeding Mukdahan province. The border pass to 3 days (2 nights) and must report can be issued at Nakhon Phanom and travel plan to the immigration office in Savannakhet at all times of entering. Mukdahan City Hall and Immigration Passport holders are allowed to stay in Laos PDR for 30 days per entry. Check Point (Departure terminal) at Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge with pres- ence of the following document; 2 of 1-inch size headshot photo and fee of 200 Thai Baht. Travelers with age 12 years old or younger needs letter of consent from guardians or parents. SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 035

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Isan region, usually refers to the northeastern part of Thailand, is made up with multi-ethnic groups that forms its own uniqueness for centuries. The livelihood of these multi-ethnic groups of Isan harnesses rich cultural and traditional aspects as well as local wisdoms through generations. The ritual of paying respect to ancestors’ spirits and adoption of Buddhism and Christianity in Isan, these are cultural values that had set a footprint in the region’s history, architecture, music, literature, dramatic arts and craftsmanship. Isan is benefited from its geographical advantages ranging from Mekong River, mountains and land borders to China and Laos PDR. The region can be accessed through various routes especially through Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom, and Mukdahan province, the three cities of “SANUK” group, home to the ancient ethnic-groups for over hundred years. The migration to Isan of people of the multi-ethnic groups is believed to occur in different period of time starting from a cluster settlment, gradually developed to self-ruled states. There might be some logical reasons as to why people were attracted to the region ranging from its natural richness, peace, or migration during the war, however, all of them had brought identity and culture to the new homes. Tai Isan, Tai So, Tai Kha, Tai khalerng, Phu Tai, Tai Yo, Tai Sak, Tai Kuan, Tai Yoi, and Thai of Chinese and Vietnamese descent, all have unique cultural heritage. We will see different culture, tradition and belief as we travel and take a closer look at each village and subdistrict in the region. The guests to Isan will probably be impressed by a stunning piece of hand-woven fabric, ancient log building located by the river and local dances that reflect ancient beliefs. Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom, and Mukdahan are “home” of the multi-ethnic groups of Isan – the citizen of the “SANUK” provinces who own a unique identity that derived from the integration and diversity through times. The true identity of Isan is the harmonization of people from different walks of life and cultures reside on the right bank of the great Mekong River. SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 039

TAI ISAN 040 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Tai Isan or Thai-Lao is the biggest group ISAN FOLK SONG, REED reside in Isan, the highland region of Thailand. MOUTH ORGAN AND IDENTITY They are originally from here long before any OF TAI ISAN PEOPLE state administrations or cities. Tai Isan has reputation for their lively plays The migration along mountains and plains and music, “Moh Lam” or traditional Isan Folk by the river has brought Tai Isan people to meet Song, in particular. Moh Lam music usually and merge with people of different origins who involves verses or lyrics that tell stories of Isan migrated to the region making Isan culture a people in different aspects of life ranging from unique combination. religious beliefs, landscape, culture and general livelihood. These Moh Lam folk songs are sung The culture of Tai Isan has been greatly by “Moh Kan” with his reed mouth organ that influenced by the ancient Vientiane kingdom in is part of the performance. Moh Lam is sung terms of language and culture. The Lao letters using Isan local dialects and are divided into 7 or Thai Noi, Khmer letters and Tai Isan dialect categories: Lam Peun, Lam Klon, Lam Mhu, are common and widely used as well as Isan Lam Plern, Lam Phi Fah or Lam Phi Than, Lam traditional culture such as Heed Sipsong Kong Mahachai and Lam Phaya Speipospi leanind aloyceaal rf.estivals have fulfill the lives of SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 041

FAMOUS MENUS OF Pla Kor Rod Nua TAI ISAN (Steamed snakehead fish) Pla Dak Song Kreung Traditional style steamed snakehead fish (Seasoned fermented fish) mseervneudiswriitchhsitnicnkyutrriictioenaanldbehneerbfitss..This flavorful Nutritional benefits meaItssaenatsroadneitidonwaitlhdhisehrbmsaadnedoafsfseormrteedntsepdicfeissh. Tai Isan love to add fermented fish in their chili Snakehead fish is good source of Omega Npausttreitsioansalitbgeivneesfitasunique salty taste. 3, contains collagen elemental substances that help nourishing the skin. Lemongrass helps The cooked fermented fish contains all of the lowering gas in stomach, promotes perspiration 5 food groups (carbohydrate, fat, protein, vita- and appetite. Chinese cabbage contains calcium mins and minerals). Besides, the herbs are rich in which is good for bone and teeth, increases vitamins and minerals such as Vitamin A, Vitamin body immune function and appetite. B1, Vitamin B3, Vitamin C, Beta-carotene, Iron, Calcium, Phosphorus, Protein, Carbohydrate, TamPaBpauyka Hsaulandgis(Pa asipgnaaytauresaoflaIsda)n cuisine. and fibers. Lemongrass contains vitamins and minerals, galangal promotes appetite, fresh chili Freshly sliced unripe papaya mixed with fer- lowers gas in stomach and relieves indigestion, amnedntseadltefisdhcbrarobt.h, tomato, chili, lime, bergamot, onion reduces chance of cancer and heart Nutritional benefits disease, especially cardiovascular disease and dyslipidemia. Antioxidant substances and Vitamin C in papaya help delay cell damage, promote di- gestion, maintain heart and brain condition as well as increase immune system. It helps lower cholesterol and chance of dyslipidemia and 042 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

contains other medical benefits such as diuretic Head of Tai Isan properties, etc. Community and Coordinator Mr. Aksarawut Khemrat Khao Niew Daeng (Sweeten sticky rice) Tel. 08 0196 9789 This traditional dessert is made of sticky Nakhon Phanom Province rice, coconut milk and palm sugar topped with rNouatsrtietidonwahlitbeesneesfiatms e. Location Ban Tha Rua, Tha Rua Subdistrict, Sticky rice gives more energy compared to Na Wah District normal rice and is rich in carbohydrate, protein, Head of Tai Isan Community fat, calcium, phosphorus, and vitamins such as Mr. Prayard Chaibin B1, B2, and E. Coconut milk contains vitamins Tel. 08 8335 5819 and saturated fat that releases energy to body Coordinator as well as increase immunity. Mr. Keschai Mingwongtham Tel. 08 9618 6001 TAI ISAN FOLK CENTER Sakon Nakhon Province Mukdahan Province Location Phang Khon Subdistrict Municipality, Phang Khon Subdistrict, Phang Khon District Location Wat Chaloemchai, Ban Phueng Head of Tai Isan Community and Coordinator Daet, Phueng Daet Subdistrict, Mr. Thong-in Nitithanasup Tel. 08 5744 8265 Mueang Mukdahan District Location Charoen Silp Subdistrict Head of Tai Isan Community Municipality, Charoen Silp Subdistrict, Mr. Chaloemchai Suphon Tel. 08 6227 2426 Charoen Silp District Coordinator Miss Nuchjira Chantarasakha Tel. 08 6231 6131 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 043

TAI SO 044 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Tai So or Ka So are Mongoloid people and CULTURE AND PLAYS speak Mon-Khmer language. There are different OF TAI SO groups of Tai So categorized by the language used which are: Tai So Ta Veung in Song Dao Tai So have strong belief in spiritual and District of Sakon Nakhon province, Bru people ghost of ancestors that was passed through who live near the bank of Mekong River in Ubon generations. The rituals such as “Yao” is held Ratchathani and Mukdahan and the biggest to console spirit of the patients while “Sang Kra community of Tai So is Tai So Kusuman who Mood” ritual is held for dead people to prepare live in Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom and the bodies before being moved from the house, Mukdahan. involving a series of traditional dancing and music. Originally from Mahaxay in Savannakhet of Laos PDR, people of Tai So had made multiple The “So Tung Bung” of Tai So is a recreation migrations to Thailand in the reign of King Rama activity that merges traditional beliefs with play III and V of Rattanakosin and settled in Sakon and dance. The “Tai So Remembrance Festival” Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom, and Mukdahan is held annual on the 4th day of the 3rd waxing province. It is believed that Tai So in Attapue moon by Tai So community in Isan, especially region of Laos PDR migrated to southern Isan in Kusuman District, Sakon Nakhon. and is the ancestor of Kui ethnic as they share the same spoken language. SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 045

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FAMOUS MENUS OF TAI SO J(Tuaamk MMiieenngg TTaavi aSno)Pong Jup Tiaok (Wild mushroom paste) Paste made with sliced lemongrass, fresh chili, Jup Tiaok refers to spicy paste made with and cock roach berry seasoned with tamarind wfisilhdbmroutshh,rofroemsh, scnhailki,eshheaalldotfi,sahnmderaota,sfetermd egnatrelidc juice and fermented fish broth. This Tai So’s seasoned with chili flakes and roasted rice. favorite paste is usually served with horse Nutritional benefits tamarind leaf and sliced ripe banana. Nutritional benefits Wild mushroom contains anti-breast cancer substance while assorted vegetables served with Tamarind juice contains antioxidant prop- the paste contain antioxidant properties that help erties and increase body immunity, cock roach delay the cell damage and eggplant helps relieve berry helps relieve fever, chili relieves gas in diabetes. stomach and indigestion, and lemongrass relieves gas in stomach, promote perspiration, and increase appetite. TAI SO FOLK CENTER LMouckatdioanhan Province Sakon Nakhon Province Location Tai So Folk Center, Sufficient Economy Center, Kusuman Subdistrict, Kusuman District Moo 3, Ban Dong Luang, Head of Tai So Community Mueang Mukdahan District Mr. Thanongsak Phol-asa Tel. 06 3037 6768 Head of Tai So Community Coordinator MTerl.. B08oo6n8ti5e9m1W18o3ngkasor Mr. Kittikorn Laohawiroj Tel. 09 3329 6929 Coordinator Nakhon Phanom Province Mrs. Cheerawan Sameephan Location Wat Phon Sai, Ban Phon Chan, Tel. 09 0023 2045 Phon Chan Subdistrict, Phon Sawan District Head of Tai So Community Mr. Suwan Kujna Tel. 08 9860 2909 Coordinator Mr. Khongwit Pholmon Tel. 08 1320 8984 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 047

TAI KHA 048 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

One of the oldest tribes of THE SIMPLE AND BEHAVED ETHNIC humankind to settle along the Mekong Lives of Tai Kha people are simple and rather rely on River according to anthropologists. Tai Kha is believed to derive from agricultural activities. Their cultural and traditional aspects are ancient Khmer after its ruin thousands interesting and worth studying. One example of traditional of year ago. belief that represent the simplicity of Tai Kha is the marriage ritual that usually involves simple items such as Language of Tai Kha is one of the candle, liquor, chicken egg, pig, silver and silver bracelet Austroasiatic categories and called even though 4 people (both male and female) would be themselves as “Bru”. Tai Kha were required at the stage of making marriage proposal. originally from Savannakhet, Salavan and Attapue provinces, in southern Tai Kha will not perform or behave in such way that Laos. However, Tai Kha migrated could be considered as “Pid Phee” or inappropriate. This to Thailand during the reign of King belief is strictly implemented in the family, for example, Rama III of Rattanakosin. daughter-in-law shall not enter father-in-law’s bedroom nor accept any gifts from him while son-in-law is not The word “Kha” is believed to allowed to freely enter any rooms that doesn’t belong to derive from “Kha Tat” or slave in Thai him in the house. If such “Phid Phee” or inappropriate language as many of Bru people were behaviors happen, they must apologize ancestors’ spirits sent to the city to be slaves during the by offering the food to the east part of the house or near reign of King Rama V. the stove. SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 049

FAMOUS MENU OF TAI KHA treat sexual dysfunction while nutritional value TaondmMHaoni gHoKmae(nKgaPLaosrteTa(Jee) aw Ban) from its shell helps digest carbohydrate, burn fat, eliminate the severe of fatty liver disease and Hoi Hom or mountain snails is local ingredient control level of fat in blood. isnnarielsgiowno,ulmdobsetlystfooruendd ininaracinoyntasienaesrofno.r T2h-3e days before cooking and are fed with coconut Mok Nor Mai (Mua A-Bang) milk to make them excrete dirt from their bodies. These snails are usually cooked in water with Similar to Thai Hor Mok (Curry Fish Custard), lemongrass, salt and Cha Mong leaf to increase Mua A-Bang uses bamboo shoot as main their natural sweetness, served with tasty Mang lienmgroendgieranstss, ecahsiloi,nfeerdmewnitthedsfhisahllobtr,otfihn,ggerrorouontd, Kaeng paste. sticky rice and Yor leaf. Nutritional benefits Nutritional benefits Tai Kha people believe that the mountain Bamboo shoot is rich in zinc and contains snails promote sexuality. Lemongrass helps necessary amino acids and fibers that help reduce gas in stomach and is rich in vitamins Zprinocmaoltseobnooduyr’issheexscreentzioynmaenadnbdablaondcye’ssycsetlelsm. . and minerals. Salt prevents goiter, Cha Mong leaf promotes excretion system, chili helps lower gas TAI KHA in stomach, relieve indigestion, shallot reduces FOLK CENTER chance of cancer and cardiovascular diseases, Nakhon Phanom Province reduce fat and fermented fish has all the 5 group Location Wat Khok Sawang, food benefits. Ban Sok Maew, Um Mao Subdistrict, That Phanom District C(ThoimckeTnoisJoouhpAw-Hithaoh)erbs MHer.aUdthoift TAauinKchhaai CTeol.m0m9u2n7it5y6 0637 Coordinator Made with domestic fowl, lemongrass, Mrs. Samnam Thanwiset Tel. 09 6513 6251 bergamot leaf, galangal seasoned with young LMouckatdioanhaMnooP2r,oBvainncNea Hin Kong, tamarind and mulberry leaf. The dish is popular Kok Toom Subdistrict, Dong Luang District dNuurtinrigtiothnealcboeonl esfeiatsson. MHer.aWd oatf TKaoioKnhbaooCnommamTuenl.it0y8a6n8d6C3o6o5r6d1inator Lemongrass and galangal help reduce gas in stomach, promotes perspiration and sputum excretion, bergamot leaf helps prevent and relieve cancer, chili promotes appetite, and has excretion properties, mulberry leaf helps eliminate nerve tensions and sleep problems. Au Puna (Au A-Liang) Au Puna is broth made from rice field crab mixed with grounded galangal, coriander, shallot, lam, wildbetel leafbush and hairy basil seasoned with fish sauce, fermented fish broth, chili and Negugtriytoiolkn.al benefits Rice field crab helps promote blood circulation and body growth and relieve trauma. It is believed that the crab has medical properties that help 050 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

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TAI KHALERNG Once resided in the high lands to the left side of Mekong River, the area of Khammouane and Savannakhet province of Laos PDR in present, people of Tai Khalerng is believed to migrate to Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom and Mukdahan province of Thailand around 150 years ago during the Lao Rebellion. The Mon-Khmer language is spoken among the Tai Khalerng as well as Kha and So tribes. However, even after the adoption of Buddhism, Tai Khalerng have hold on to their traditional belief in ghost such as Mahesak Ghost or house ghost, spirits of ancestors, forest and mountain ghosts are still existed in their culture. The “bird” tattoo used to be popular among Tai Khalerng men, they usually have shoulder-length hair and tattoo on the face while women have bun hairstyle. Men with traditional tattoo on half of their bodies starting from the foot to waist can be seen in some small Tai Khalerng communities in rural areas. 052 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

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DRESS OF TAI KHALERNG THE UNAMBITIOUS Hand-sew and indigo dye fabric are common AND ENDURED ETHNIC in clothing culture of Tai Khalerng. The women Tai khalerng has seamlessly integrated their usually wear silk or ‘Madmee’ skirt, bare chest livelihood with other tribes in Isan, gradually (known as ‘Pla Nom’), occasionally cover the adapted from being people of the highlands to breasts with piece of silk fabric during rituals or live along the river plains and still remain own festivals, wear silver accessories such as bracelet, traditional values of being endured and unam- anklet, and earrings, dye the hair with cumin and bitious. Their culture and dancing arts are also pain the face with wild yam and uncooked rice, solid and unique. and wear footwear made from natural materials such as animal skin, piece of wood and leafs. FAMOUS MENUS OF TAI KHALERNG B(TloamckKCahiiLckaeenMSoorudpin)in Clay Pot Nutritional benefits Black fowl is high in protein and contains Easy and flavorful. Chicken soup is com- dmoomneinstiIcsafonwclu, igsianlaen. gTahle, lseomuopngisramsasdaendofwbalatecrk. medical substances that increase blood The black fowl usually contains more nutritional circulation and body growth. Galangal helps with digestion, reduces gas in stomach while lemongrass is high in vitamins such as A, B, C values compare to general chicken making the and minerals; Folate, Magnesium, Zinc, Copper dish simple yet special. and Iron. 054 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

K(FaisehnsgouKpawyiuth-KMaayeang Niew and vegetables) Nutritional benefits Traditional d made with simple ingredients Rice is a great source of carbohydrate, fNouutnrditilooncaalllybseuncehfiatss fish, insect and vegetables. Small fishes, shrimps, and true water beetles brown sugar helps promote body’s excretion and coconut is rich in vitamin C, B, amino acid, are high in protein, phosphorus and iron. Other iron, calcium, etc. herbs such as, Pak Kisom, Pak Kikom, and TAI KHALERNG FOLK CENTER Sakon Nakhon Province Pak Tew are rich in vitamins including vitamin C, B12, and A, calcium and phosphorus. Chili Location Tai Khalerng Folk Center, and lemongrass help reduce gas in stomach and Ban Kut Bak, Kut Bak Subdistric, Kut Bak District indigestion, promote perspiration, and appetite. Head of Tai Khalerng Community (JCiahwili Mr. Chaiyut Wainerdlue Tel. 08 6244 5737 Bon Rim Suan vegetables) Coordinators paste and fresh Mr. Weeraphong Najaikhong Tel. 08 2244 4900 Small fishes are main ingredient of this fla- Mr. Sunisa Darbpimsri Tel. 08 7945 4887 vorful dish mixing with chili, garlic, and shallot seasoned with fermented fish broth. The paste NLoackahtioonn Phanom Province Nisuutsriutiaollnyaslebrveendefwitisth local vegetables. Wat Sa Phang Thong, Ban Nong Sang, Nong Sang Subdistrict, Fishes are high in protein which helps build Na Kae District ahnads arlel poaf itrhetis5sufoeos.dTghroeucposowkehdilefheermrbesnsteudchfisahs Head of Tai Khalerng Community Mr. Kasin Phorharn Tel. 08 3148 5495 chili, garlic and shallot help lower gas in stomach, Coordinator Mr. Siriphong Ngaosuwan Tel. 08 9843 8970 cholesterol and sugar in blood, relieve indiges- tion, promote skin’s beauty, appetite and body’s Mukdahan Province excretion, nourish blood cells and heart as well Location Town Hall of Don Tan District, as contain various antioxidant substances. Khao Fhun Moo 3 Don Tan Subtrict, Don Tan District Head of Tai Khalerng Community Uncooked sticky rice, brown sugar and Mr. Kirati Pawong coconut mixed in local mortar. This dessert is usually found in local merit making ceremonies. Coordinator Mrs. Phannipha Khonwai Tel. 08 3282 2254 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 055

PHU TAI 056 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Phu Tai is known as the ethnic of beauty, Siamese armies marched across the Mekong once resided along the land near Sipsongjuthai River to overcome the Lao Rebellion led by King and Sipsongpanna as well as northern parts Anouvong of Vientiane. After the war, the armies of Lao and Vietnam bordering southern China. had emigrated people from Wang, Tapon as well Phu Tai people were affected from war and as other states bordered to Vietnam to the right poverty and decided to dissert their homelands side of Mekong River to ensure security of the and moved to Isan in around B.E. 1826, in the kingdom from emersion of military troops from reign of King Rama III of Rattanakosin. Vientiane and Vietnam side. Therefore, Phu Tai people from Wang, Tapon, Pinn, Nong, and Phu Tai was once separated into two groups Kam-Or Kam-Kiew states had relocated along which are Phu Tai Dam (Black Phu Tai) and Phu Phu Phan Mountains in the areas that are now Tai Khao (White Phu Tai). The groups had settled Kalasin, Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom and iannd12TasptaotnesthoefbSigipgseosnt gsejutttlheami erengtsio. nInwBi.tEh. W18a2n6g, Mukdahan province of Thailand. in the reign of King Rama III of Rattanakosin, SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 057

DRESS OF PHU TAI silver buttons or coins. The dress of Phu Tai people are elaborated The Phu Tai dance or “Fon Phu Tai Renu and beautiful, the ladies, in particular. Their Nakhon” has reputation for its artistic beauty and woven fabric has unique beauty especially outfits of the dancers. The ladies are wearing Praewa Silk. The woven technique in making deep blue dress with red edging and silver skirt’s patterns and connect to the main part of accessories ranging from earrings, necklace fabric called “Teen Toh” is very popular for Phu and bangle, covered one shoulder with white Tai ethnics. They also make silk and traditional shawl-like piece of fabric in diagonal direction deep indigo dye fabric known as “Black fabric” and have their hair done in buns, decorated which represents a unique character of Phu Tai with white flowers while men are wearing “Mo arts. The women of Phu Tai love the patterns Hom”, the indigo dye shirt with red edging and on their skirts, they usually use green, blue, red Chinese pants, covered waist and head with and purple colored silk to make patterns, all piece of fabric. The Phu Tai dance in Isan can woven in the same piece of cloth. The skirts be varied depending on the locations such as are usually paired with elbow-length blouse with 058 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

the Phu Tai dance in Sakon Nakhon. the dancers will wear the fake long nails with red tuft to the edge. PHPUeoTplAe IofHPOhuSTPaiIuTsAuaLllyITlivYe in an extended family. They are diligence, economical and are hard workers. Phu Tai people rely on agricultural activities such as rice farming, growing plants, trading livestock and traveling ponersaocnarisavkannowsenllinags p“Nroadi uHcotsi”)i.n different cities (the sales Phu Tai ladies are generally beautiful and friendly to guests or visitors. The tradition of Phu Tai in welcoming their guests are to perform dancing, handfastings, and “Dood U”, liquor made from fermented paddy with blowgun straw. SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 059

FAMOUS MENUS OF PHU TAI contain acetic acid giving sour taste which can Khao Pun Pa Dae No be used to replace lime or vinegar. Unlike other Thai traditional cuisines, Phu Tai (JCiahwili PplaasDteaewith fermented fish) people eat ‘Khao Pun’ or fermented rice noodle A comfort food of all Isan people. Fermented with fish sauce, fermented fish broth or shrimp fish mixed with assorted herbs; galangal, lem- fpreasshtely(dmilaudteed)r.icTehneokoedyleso.f this specialty is the ongrass, bergamot leaf, chili, garlic, and shallot Nutritional benefits seasoned with salt and sugar. Carbohydrate from rice noodle generate body’s energy. The cooked fermented fish con- tains all the 5 food groups. Shrimp paste is rich in amino acid, mostly the-easy-to-digest types of protein, calcium, and antioxidant substances. Ping Kaiban Yae Hung Moddaeng (Traditional grilled chicken) The salty-marinated domestic fowl grilled until it gives nice smell, topped with ant’s eggs. The sour of ant’s eggs is a great combination of salty chicken. This traditional grilled chicken hNaustrbiteiocnoaml eberanreefidtsish. Chicken or fowl is high in protein that helps build and repair tissues. Ants and their eggs 060 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Nutritional benefits PHU TAI FOLK CENTER contCaoinoskeadll foefrmtheente5dfofiosdh SLoackaotinonNBaaknhHounaiPHreoevpi,nTcoeng Khop Subdistrict, groups. Shallot helps reduce Khok Si Suphan District gas, indigestion and promote MHer.aPdhoafduPnhguchTaaii, CCohmacmhauinTiteyl. 09 5649 8806 appetite as well as relieve in- Coordinators Mr. Amnuey Komintharachart Tel. 08 1670 6907 flammation, excrete parasites MMrr.s.SUiladwoantSYaamthaonnagcTheal.i 0T8el.107890721333423806 and heat up body’s tem- Location Ban Phu Thai Kata, Moo 2, Non Hom Subdistrict, perature. Galangal contains Mueang Sakon Nakhon District similar medical properties as Head of Phu Tai Community shallot and it helps detect Mr. Sornchai Khanpiakaew Tel. 08 1999 2007 and destroy cancer cells. Coordinator Mr. Wanchai Fangsai Tel. 09 9891 8038 Lemongrass helps lower the NLoackahtioonn Phanom Province gas in stomach, promote Bua, perspiration and appetite. Wat Bua Khao, Ban Na Lastly, garlic helps promote overall body’s growth and Khok Hin Hae Subdistrict, Renu Nakhon District tissues, reduce chance of HMer.aKdhoofnsPahwuaTnaRi iCtthoimkomrnunTietly. 08 1729 8541 cancer and increase immune Coordinator Mr. Sakda Saenmit Tel. 08 3563 8743 system. Location Muangway Theatre, Wat Phra That Renu, Renu Subdistrict, Renu Nakhon District K(inRhibcaeaomcLboaoormoke) Sdap Coordinator Mrs. Issaree Rakkattiyabut Tel. 09 5532 4801 Mukdahan Province Very much to the famous LHoecaadtioofnPBhaun Phu, Ban Pao Subdistrict, Nong Sung District Thai Khao Larm (sweeten Tai Community Mr. Phadet Saenkhot sticky rice in bamboo), this Coordinator Mr. Anek Artwichai Tel. 08 4519 5321 dessert is made of sticky rice, Location OTOP for tourism Center, Wat Chang Ban Khae, coconut milk, sugar, taro, Ban Kho Subdistrict, Khamchaine District peanuts, and sweet potato Head of Phu Tai Community Mr. Krieng Khlongdee mix together and cook in Coordinator Mrs. Patcharin Pinmueang Tel. 09 3084 8055 bamboo. Nutritional benefits Sticky rice gives en- ergy and promote overall body’s growth, lower the gas and enhance stomach’s capacity and It also promote skin’s beauty. Taro nourish- es body’s natural elements, relieve inflammation and stiff while sweet potato helps reduce fat in blood. SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 061

TAI YO 062 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Tai Yo people, in the past, settled along the governor of Tha Uthen State. Chao Kham Kon, mountain areas of Sipsongpanna, the border of former King of Kham Kerd State was appointed northern Lao and southern China, however, they to take care of people in Tha Khon Yang State gradually moved down to the bank of Mekong in Kalasin Province. From that point forward, the River during the wars. Around B.E. 1808, King culture of Tai Yo has integrated into the local Rama I of Rattanakosin had emigrated Tai Yo livelihood and expanded to nearby regions such from their homeland, Hongsa State, to Xayaburi as Mahasarakham and Mukdahan province as State situated on the bank of Songkhram River well as some other parts of Isan too. with connection to Mekong River, and is now Tha Uthen District of Thailand. The migration of Tai Yo started again in the reign of King Rama III of Rattanakosin when King Anouvong of Vientiane gained people from Xayaburi to Pungleng and Kham Kerd State. Tai Yo people had resided on the left bank of Mekong River which is now the Khammouane Province of Laos PDR for a certain period of time. Their journey to the right bank of Mekong River continued in around B.E. 1830 as a result of several wars between Siamese armies and Lan Xang. Tao Phra Pathum, King of Pungleng State is Phra Srivorarj was appointed as the first SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 063

DRTEaiSYSo oOwnFs bTeAauItifYulOclothing culture and dance. The THE ETHNIC OF common outfit of Tai Yo is the wide-neck shirt in bright UNITY AND PEACE green color, cover right shoulder with shawl-like silk fabric in deep blue, wear deep blue loincloth-pants and with piece The people of Tai Yo have their own of silk fabric in red on their waists and wear silver necklace, spoken and written language which are amulet, and put marigold flower in left ear. Women of Tai very similar to the ancient language of Yo wear pink elbow-length blouse with black edging and Thai-Lao. Yo people are honest, diligence deep blue “Teen Jok” silk with traditional belt and silk Sa- and united. They love to help each other bai or shawl-like fabric in blue on their left shoulder, silver when or during traditional activities such accessories such as earrings, necklace and bracelet and as merit making, house warming, or usually put flowers in their bun hairs. ravish harvest tradition or “Na Wan”, all tchoemsemucnleitayr.ly reflect the unity within the 064 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

FAMOUS MENU OF TAI YO gas in stomach, promotes body’s mineral level Tod Ua Pla Duk and appetite. Salt seasons and balance the taste, (Deep fried catfish stuffed with herbs) prevent goiter while fermented fish contains all of the 5 food groups. Deep-fried catfish stuffed with mix herbs; dried chili, shallot, sliced lemongrass, bergamot TAI YO FOLK CENTER leaf, and basil seasoned with salt and fermented LSoackaotinonNBaaknhPohnonP, rBoavninPcheon Subdistrict, fish served with sticky rice. Phon Na Kaeo District NutrCitaiotfnisahl ibseanenfaittsural source of good protein and fat. Dried chili helps lower the gas in stom- Head of Tai Yo Community ach, reduce sputum and urine excretion. Shallot Mr. Thongpan Raksaphol Tel. 08 9844 2890 reduces chance of cancer and cardiovascular Coordinator diseases. Lemongrass reduces gas in stomach, Mr. Muensak Itthisaeng Tel. 08 6227 9119 promotes body’s mineral level and appetite as LNoackahtioonn Phanom Province well as prevent and relieve cancer. Basil leaf Phon, effectively eliminates fishy smells, balance the Wat Khammawasi, Ban tcaosntetainansdallporefvtehnet5gfooitoedr gwrhoiulepsf.ermented fish Non Tan Subdistrict, Tha Uthen District Mok Joh Pla Krai (Vegetable rolls) Head of Tai Yo Community This is one of the most popular dishes of Mr. Suphawit Phannawong Tel. 06 4145 5298 Tai Yo, especially in Tha Uthen District, Nakhon Coordinator Phanom province. It refers to vegetable rolls Mr. Sonphan Kittisriwan Tel. 08 9862 8884 stuffed with marinated knife fish meat, steamed MLouckatdioanhaDnonPg rYoevninMcuenicipality, Nanudtristeiorvneadl baesnaefmitasin course. Mueang Mukdahan District Fish meat promotes body’s digestion, Head of Tai Yo Community immune systems and brain as well as healthy Mr. Somphon Deeduangphan sleep. Chili promotes appetite, lower gas in Coordinators stomach and sputum as well as relieve colds. MMrrss..TKhaaenwawjaainSDaeeendsuoamngTpehla.n0T8el7. 40467493332895696 Shallot reduce chances of cancer, cardiovascular diseases and fat in blood. Lemongrass reduces SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 065

TAI SAK The ancestors of Tai Sak traveled on foot Thailand in the reign of King Prasartthong of from their homelands in China along Mekong Ayutthaya. River and temporarily resided in central Vietnam, nTehaaro HGuaei ’SshsuecaonnddTahryaociGtya.i TZhae, fginraolulypelnetderebdy Later, the King of Siam allowed Tai Sak to be self-ruled, and called the areas where they first resided from “Pa Hai Sok” to “At Samat” 066 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

city resembling the strength of the group. been given to Tai Sak since Ayutthaya era. The name At Samat is believed to derive Mon-Khmer language is spoken among Tai from the word “Atamat” which is the name of Sak and “Sak Ten Sak” is a famous traditional the Mekong River patrol group in the period of dance of the group that has been passed Phra Sunthorn Rajawongsa (Fai), this name had through generations. SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 067

FAMOUS MENU OF TAI SAK Nutritional benefits (PGlarilPleodhfiPsahoinKbabanKaonraunlegaf) Fish meat promote body’s digestive and im- Pla Poh (Basa fish) is a local ingredient of mune system as well as healthy sleep and brain. where Tai Sak people settle. Later, people farm Salt is natural seasoning and helps prevent goiter. this fish mainly for household consumption. What makes this menu special than other grilled Oa Ngai Pla (Fish custard) fish is that banana leaf keeps the moisture and maintain natural sweetness in the meat Another recommended menu of Tai Sak tribe. Basa fish’s stomach and liver (Pla Poh) mixed with salt, boiled until cooked, served hot with sticky rice. 068 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Nutritional benefits TAI SAK FOLK CENTER Fish meat promote body’s Nakhon Phanom Province digestive and immune system Location Ban At Samat, as well as healthy sleep and At Samat Subdistrict, Mueang Nakhon Phanom banradinh. eSlaplst isprneavteunrat lgsoeiatesro.ning Head of Tai Sak Community Mrs. Arunthip Por Nor Nakhon Phanom Tel. 08 7953 1319 Coordinator M13rs1.9Arunthip Por Nor Nakhon Phanom Tel. 08 7953 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 069

TAI KUAN 070 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Tai Kuan is similar to Tai Puan or Phu Tai according to anthropologists. The plain between tribes but hold different minor details in terms mountains was called “Kuan” in their language of clothing culture and spoken language. panedopTleai“PKuuaann”w. as the first group to call those People of Tai Kuan once resided in Taeng RITUALS AND LANGUAGE OF State of Sipsongjuthai region. The poverty and TAI KUAN wars had forced them to migrate towards the south into Laos through Sae Noi River, known People of Tai Kuan adopt Buddhism and still as Sae Bung Fai and passed southern part of hold on to their ancestors’ spirits. The spiritual Mekong River during the wars between Siam rituals of Tai Kuan involve traditional dancing to and Vietnam during the French colonized period pay respect to house god (Pu Tasaeng Shrine) to claim the rights to possess the left side of that is believed has power to protect people in Mekong River. the village from harms and Tai Kuan dances that imitate postures of wild animals such as King Rama III of Siam decided to migrate eglueaprh,amnto,nskneaykea,nddeelior,nt.iger, turtle, buffalo, horse, people from the left side of Mekong River to the right to prevent emerging of Vietnamese troops. The spoken language of Tai Kuan is similar As a result, Tai Kuan had settled down in the to Phu Tai except some pronunciation of vowels area near Tambon Nang Hong, That Phanom such as “ ” is used to replace “ ” – “Epro” oDfisTtraici tK, NuaankhinonnPehwanhoommePlaronvdin.ce, the first home means father, “Hao” means we and “Toh” means you. The word Tai Kuan is believed to be used since their migration to from China to Laos, SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 071

FAMOUS MENU OF TAI KUAN cancer. Chili promotes appetite, lower gas in (TCohmickKeani sLoaudp SwaitihBtaami aBruinkdkhleaamf) On stomach and sputum as well as relieve colds. Shallot reduce chances of cancer, cardiovascular Soup with domestic fowl meat (sliced/diced) diseases and fat in blood. Tomato promotes seasoned with assorted herbs such as galangal, healthy eyes, reduces chance of heart attack lemongrass, bergamot leaf, shallot, chili, tomato, disease, colon cancer and dementia. tamarind leaf, fish sauce, salt and MSG. Served hot. Nutritional benefits Om Keelek Sai Nung Khem (Cassia leaf soup and salted Protein from chicken meat helps build and buffalo skin) repair tissues. Young tamarind leaf helps lower body’s temperature and is natural cold relief. A soup with assorted herbs which are young Galangal and lemongrass lower gas inn stomach, cassia and Yanang leaf (water), chili, and shallot promotes body’s mineral level and appetite. mixed with ground uncooked sticky rice, minced Bergamot leaf reduces chance and relieve pork, fermented fish broth and salted buffalo skin. 072 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

TAI GUAN FOLK CENTER Nakhon Phanom Province Location Na Thon Municipality, Ban Na Thon, Na Thon Subdistrict, That Phanom District Head of Tai Guan Community Mr. Prasit Phimpha Tel. 08 1320 0691 Coordinators Mr. Dawit Wachum Tel. 09 2269 4759 Mrs. Thanyathip Charoenwutthiphat Tel. 08 8320 5489 Nutritional benefits sun-dried before cooking. The salted skins are Cassia leaf is believed to help improve sleep mixed with chili, shallot, tomato, spring onion, faonrdafecremrteanintepdefirsiohdboroftthim. Teh.e paste can be kept and promote appetite. Lemongrass and chili lower Nutritional benefits gas in stomach, promote body’s mineral level and perspiration, sputum excretion and is natural cold Chili promotes appetite, sputum and body’s arenlidefc. Yonantaainnsghleigahf waantteiorxcidalamnst sbuobdsyt’asntceemsp. eSrhaatulloret excretion, lower gas in stomach, and is natural reduces chance of cancer and cardiovascular cold relief. Shallot reduce chance of cancer diseases and fat in blood. and cardiovascular diseases as well as fat in bheloaordt .aTtotamcaktodpisreoamsoeteasnhdeadltehmy eenyteisa,. pSrepvreinngt J(Ciahwili NpuanstgeKwhiethmsalted buffalo skin) onion reduces cholesterol and lower chance of constipation. Nung Khem usually refers to cow or buffalo skin, marinated with salt and rum and store in container for 3-4 days. The skins are properly SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 073

TAI YOI 074 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

Tai Yoi, the group reside in Sakon Nakhon THE APPEARANCE OF province, have language, traditional dance, TAI YOI PEOPLE beliefs and culture that clearly represent its olawngnuuangiequaenndeisssu.sTeadi wYoithi ihnatshethfeaimr oilyw. nThsepyoakleson Typical Tai Yoi usually have moderated-sized own plays and recreations such as Lai Han fire body and fair skin, speak own language in family worship, Tai Yoi Klong Leng and some annual and use either Thai with Isan dialect or Thai water festivals which is boat racing. language to communicate with general people. They love to be called and reminded as Tai Yoi Ban Rim Yam was the home of people of as they’re proud of their rich culture and identity. Tai Yoi, the border area to Nakhon Phanom and Sakon Nakhon province. This area is long known for its amplitude and had attracted people from different parts of Isan to settle here, therefore, the King Rama V of Siam had named this area as “Akat Amnuai” city. SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 075

THE ADOPTION OF BUDDHISM hold a ritual to pay respect to “Ta Hak” ghost AND BELIEF OF ANCESTORS’ as believed this will result in good rice harvest. SPIRITS FAMOUS MENUS OF TAI YOI Even though Tai Yoi have faith in Buddhism, Larb Pla Kao however, they still hold a strong belief in paying respect to ancestors’ spirits including house theyLmarabkeisswpeelcl ikanl oLwarnbdwisithhinPlIasaKna.oF,olor cTaali fYisohi,. ghosts, farm ghost that are believed to act as a Pla Kao is a fresh water fish, villagers usually guardians of the family and farms. Tai Yoi usually 076 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand

TAI YOAI FOLK CENTER Sakon Nakhon Province Location Akat Amnuai Municipality, Akat Amnuai District Head of Tai Yoai Community Mr. Pradit Khi-inthi Tel. 08 3338 7774 Coordinator Mr. Phattanayut Phengboon Tel. 08 5087 7847 get them from river or farm them in community promote body’s mineral level, perspiration and for consumption. appetite. Bergamot leaf helps prevent and relieve Nutritional benefits sceaanscoenrsin.gS.alt prevents goiter and used for food Dried chili promote appetite and body’s urine excretion as well as reduce sputum and relieve indigestive condition. Shallot reduces chance of cancer and cardiovascular diseases and fat in blood. Lemongrass lower gas in stomach, SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand 077

THAI OF CHINESE DESCENT Thai of Chinese descent could refer to Chinese people born in Kingdom of Thailand or descendants of Chinese ancestors from far China. Thais of Chinese origin are the main population in Thailand and seamlessly merge with Thais through marriages. Majority of Thai-Chinese in the country is of Chaozhou descendant from Guangzhou of China, speaking Teochew language and other biggest groups are Hakka, Hokkien and Hainan. Chinese is believed to enter Thailand since Sukhothai era. They were with commercial boats selling goods in the land of Suvarnnabhumi long before Sukhothai. The celadon ware clearly represents the Chinese influences to Thai society at that time. The Chaozhou is the biggest group of Chinese people in Thailand. They have flee to Thailand from Fujian, and Guangdong and resided along the bank of Chao Phraya River and central region of Thailand since Ayutthaya Kingdom running variety of business such as silver jewelry, selling rice and medicine. Some joined government administration in the reign of King Thonburi and a number of Chaozhou vendors received privileges from government as a result of this known as the “Royal Chinese”. The first Chinese generation in Thailand believe in Buddhism (Mahayana) and Taoism, the Theravada Buddhism came after and become popular among the groups. It is common for Thai-Chinese to held Chinese traditional rituals along with Buddhist ceremony following the Theravada beliefs. They still worship ancestors and gods following traditional beliefs and go to temple for other religious activities. CHINESE IN ISAN Majority of Chinese in Isan run family businesses and usually locate in the markets or local commercial areas. This has made a great cultural combination between the two nations as Chinese shrine and temple usually reside in the Chinese communities in each province. Moreover, the livelihood of Chinese people in Isan still contains some excitement as they combine identity of the two cultures and adjust according to the social context surrounded. 078 SANUK Tribal Tourism Thailand