ابن جبير فى مصر والحجاز

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒﲑ ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﳊﺠﺎز‬



‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒﲑ ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﳊﺠﺎز‬ ‫ﺗﺄﻟﻴﻒ‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻣﻞ ﻛﻴﻼﻧﻲ‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻣﻞ ﻛﻴﻼﻧﻲ‬ ‫رﻗﻢ إﻳﺪاع ‪١٦٠٨٠ / ٢٠١٢‬‬ ‫ﺗﺪﻣﻚ‪٩٧٨ ٩٧٧ ٦٤١٦ ٨٣ ٣ :‬‬ ‫ﻣﺆﺳﺴﺔ ﻫﻨﺪاوي ﻟﻠﺘﻌﻠﻴﻢ واﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ‬ ‫ﺟﻤﻴﻊ اﻟﺤﻘﻮق ﻣﺤﻔﻮﻇﺔ ﻟﻠﻨﺎﴍ ﻣﺆﺳﺴﺔ ﻫﻨﺪاوي ﻟﻠﺘﻌﻠﻴﻢ واﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ‬ ‫المﺸﻬﺮة ﺑﺮﻗﻢ ‪ ٨٨٦٢‬ﺑﺘﺎرﻳﺦ ‪٢٠١٢ / ٨ / ٢٦‬‬ ‫إن ﻣﺆﺳﺴﺔ ﻫﻨﺪاوي ﻟﻠﺘﻌﻠﻴﻢ واﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ ﻏير ﻣﺴﺌﻮﻟﺔ ﻋﻦ آراء المﺆﻟﻒ وأﻓﻜﺎره‬ ‫وإﻧﻤﺎ ﻳﻌ ﱢﱪ اﻟﻜﺘﺎب ﻋﻦ آراء ﻣﺆﻟﻔﻪ‬ ‫‪ ٥٤‬ﻋﻤﺎرات اﻟﻔﺘﺢ‪ ،‬ﺣﻲ اﻟﺴﻔﺎرات‪ ،‬ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻧﴫ ‪ ،١١٤٧١‬اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ‫ﺟﻤﻬﻮرﻳﺔ ﻣﴫ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﻠﻴﻔﻮن‪ + ٢٠٢ ٢٢٧٠٦٣٥٢ :‬ﻓﺎﻛﺲ‪+ ٢٠٢ ٣٥٣٦٥٨٥٣ :‬‬ ‫اﻟﱪﻳﺪ اﻹﻟﻜﱰوﻧﻲ‪[email protected] :‬‬ ‫المﻮﻗﻊ اﻹﻟﻜﱰوﻧﻲ‪http://www.hindawi.org :‬‬ ‫ﺟﻤﻴﻊ اﻟﺤﻘﻮق اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﺼﻮرة وﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﻐﻼف ﻣﺤﻔﻮﻇﺔ لمﺆﺳﺴﺔ ﻫﻨﺪاوي‬ ‫ﻟﻠﺘﻌﻠﻴﻢ واﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ‪ .‬ﺟﻤﻴﻊ اﻟﺤﻘﻮق اﻷﺧﺮى ذات اﻟﺼﻠﺔ ﺑﻬﺬا اﻟﻌﻤﻞ ﺧﺎﺿﻌﺔ ﻟﻠﻤﻠﻜﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺎﻣﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫‪Cover Artwork and Design Copyright © 2011 Hindawi‬‬ ‫‪Foundation for Education and Culture.‬‬ ‫‪All other rights related to this work are in the public domain.‬‬

‫اﳌﺤﺘﻮﻳﺎت‬ ‫ﻣﻘ ّﺪ َﻣﺔ ‪7‬‬ ‫‪ -١‬ﻣﻦ ﻏﺮﻧﺎﻃﺔ إﱃ اﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳﺔ ‪11‬‬ ‫‪ -٢‬ﻣﻦ اﻹ ْﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳَﺔ إﱃ اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة ‪15‬‬ ‫‪ -٣‬ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫﺮة إﱃ َﻋﻴﺬا ْب ‪29‬‬ ‫‪ -٤‬ﻣﻦ َﻋﻴﺬاب إﱃ ُﺟ ّﺪة ‪41‬‬ ‫‪ -٥‬ﻣﻦ ُﺟ ّﺪة إِﱃ َﻣ ّﻜﺔ ‪47‬‬ ‫‪ -٦‬اﻟﺤ َﺮ ُم ال َمﻜ ّﻰ ‪51‬‬ ‫‪ -٧‬آﺛﺎر َﻣ ّﻜﺔ ‪73‬‬ ‫‪ -٨‬ﻃﻴّﺒﺎت َﻣ ّﻜﺔ ‪81‬‬ ‫‪ -٩‬ﻋﺎدا ٌت وﺗﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ ‪87‬‬ ‫‪ -١٠‬أﻋﻴَﺎد َرﻣ َﻀﺎن ‪101‬‬ ‫‪ -١١‬ﺑَ ْين اﻟ ِﻌﻴ َﺪﻳْﻦ ‪113‬‬ ‫‪ -١٢‬ﻋﺮﻓﺎت ‪123‬‬ ‫‪ -١٣‬ﻣﻦ َﻣ ّﻜﺔ إﱃ المﺪﻳﻨﺔ ‪139‬‬ ‫‪ -١٤‬اﻟﺤ َﺮ ُم الم َﺪ ِﻧﻲ ‪151‬‬ ‫‪ -١٥‬آﺛﺎر المﺪﻳﻨﺔ ‪157‬‬ ‫‪ -١٦‬أَﻳّﺎم اﻟﻮداع ‪161‬‬ ‫ﻣﺤﻔﻮﻇﺎت ‪165‬‬



‫ﻣﻘ ّﺪ َﻣﺔ‪1‬‬ ‫ﺑﻘﻠﻢ ﻛﺎﻣﻞ ﻛﻴﻼﻧﻲ‬ ‫أول ﻳﻨﺎﻳﺮ ﺳﻨﺔ ‪١٩٤٠‬م‬ ‫‪١‬‬ ‫أَﻳﱡﻬﺎ اﻟﺼﺒ ﱡﻲ اﻟﻌﺰﻳ ُﺰ‪:‬‬ ‫َﺣ ﱠﺪﺛْﺘُﻚ ﰲ ُﻣﻘ ﱢﺪﻣ ِﺔ اﻟﻘ ﱠﺼ ِﺔ اﻷُوﱃ — ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬه المﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ — ﺑﻤﺎ ا ْﺳﺘَﻮ َﱃ ﻋﲆ ﻧﻔ ِﴘ ِﻣﻦ اﻟﱰ ﱡد ِد‬ ‫واﻟ َﺤ ْيرَ ِة ﺣي َن ﻫ َﻤ ْﻤ ُﺖ ﺑﺘﻘﺪﻳ ِﻢ ِﻗﺼ ِﺔ »اﺑ ِﻦ ﻳَ ْﻘ َﻈﺎ َن« اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳ ﱠ ْﴪﺗُﻬﺎ ﻟﻚ‪ ،‬وأَدﻧَﻴْﺘُﻬﺎ إﱃ ﻓﻬﻤ َﻚ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻓﺄَﻗﺒﻠ َﺖ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﺒﺘ ِﻬ ًﺠﺎ راﺿﻴًﺎ‪ .‬وﻟﻌ ﱠﻠﻚ ﺗَ ْﺬ ُﻛﺮ‪ ،‬ﻣﺎ أَ ْﻓ َﻀﻴْ ُﺖ ﺑﻪ إِﻟﻴ َﻚ ﰲ ﻣﻘ ﱢﺪ َﻣ ِﺘﻬﺎ‪ِ ،‬ﻣﻦ أَﻧﱠ ِﻨﻲ وﻗﻔ ُﺖ‬ ‫— ﺣﻴﻨﺌ ٍﺬ — ﻃﻮﻳ ًﻼ‪ ،‬ﻓﻠﻢ أَ ْد ِر ﺑﺄَ ﱢي المﺠﻤﻮﻋﺘي ِن أُ ْﻟ ِﺤ ُﻘﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫أَ ِﺑﺎ ْﻟ ِﻘ َﺼ ِﺺ اﻟﻌﻠﻤﻴ ِﺔ‪ ،‬أَ ِم ِﺑﺎ ْﻟ ِﻘ َﺼ ِﺺ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴ ِﺔ؟ ﺛُﻢ اﻧﺘﻬﻴ ُﺖ إِﱃ إﻟﺤﺎ ِﻗﻬﺎ ﺑﺎﻟ ِﻘ َﺼ ِﺺ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴ ِﺔ؛ﻷَﻧﻬﺎ — ﻛﻤﺎ ﻗﻠ ُﺖ ﻟ َﻚ — َﻋﺮﻳﻘ ٌﺔ ﺑﺘﻔﻜيرﻫﺎ وﺧﻴﺎ ِﻟﻬﺎ ﰲ اﻟ ُﻌﺮوﺑ ِﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫‪ 1‬ﻧﺜﺒﺖ ﰲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻄﺒﻌﺔ ﻣﻘﺪﻣﺔ اﻟﻄﺒﻌﺔ اﻷوﱃ‪ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ أﺛﺒﺘﻨﺎﻫﺎ ﰲ اﻟﻄﺒﻌﺎت اﻟﺴﺎﺑﻘﺔ‪.‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫‪٢‬‬ ‫ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻫ َﻤ ْﻤ ُﺖ ﺑ ِﺈﻇﻬﺎ ِر ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱢﺮﺣﻠ ِﺔ َﻟ َﻚ‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﺮ َض ﱄ ِﻣﺜ ُﻞ ﻫﺬه اﻷَﺳﺌﻠ ِﺔ‪ ،‬إِ ﱠن ﻫﺬه اﻟﺮﺣﻠ َﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺸﺎﺋﻘ َﺔ‬ ‫ِﻫ َﻲ — ﰲ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﻬﺎ — ﻣﻦ أَﺑﺮ ِع اﻟﻜﺘ ِﺐ اﻟ ُﺠ ْﻐﺮاﻓﻴﱠ ِﺔ وأَ ْﺣ َﺴ ِﻨﻬﺎ ﻃﺮﻳﻘ ًﺔ‪ ،‬وأَ ْﻫﺪاﻫﺎ أُﺳﻠﻮﺑًﺎ‬ ‫ﰲ ﺗﺮﻏﻴ ِﺐ اﻟﻨﺎ ِﺷﺌَ ِﺔ‪ ،‬وﺗ ْﻌﺮﻳﻔﻬﻢ ﺗَ ْﻘﻮﻳ َﻢ اﻟﺒُ ْﻠﺪا ِن‪ .‬ﻓﻬﻞ أُﻟ ِﺤ ُﻘﻬﺎ ﺑﻤﺎ أَﻇﻬﺮﺗُ ُﻪ ﻟ َﻚ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺼ ِﺺ‬ ‫اﻟﺠﻐﺮاﻓﻴّ ِﺔ؟‬ ‫وﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻛﺜيرٌ ﻣﻦ اﻟ ﱠﺸﺒَ ِﻪ ِﺑﺎ ْﻟ ِﻘ َﺼ ِﺺ اﻟﻌﺎ َﻟ ِﻤﻴﱠ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ اﺧﱰﺗُﻬﺎ ﻟﻚ‪ ،‬ﻓﻬﻞ أُﻟﺤ ُﻘﻬﺎ ﺑﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋ َﺔ‬ ‫»أَﺷﻬ ِﺮ اﻟﻘﺼ ِﺺ«؟ وﻗﺪ ﻛﺎﻧ ْﺖ ﺣﺎ ِﻓ َﺰ ًة ﻻﺑﻦ ﺑَ ﱡﻄﻮﻃ َﺔ ﻋﲆ إِﻇﻬﺎ ِر رﺣﻠﺘﻪ اﻟﺸﺎﺋﻘ ِﺔ ا ﱠﻟ ِﺘﻲ وﻋﺪﺗُﻚ‬ ‫ﺑﺘﻠﺨﻴﺼﻬﺎ ﻣﻨﺬُ أَﻋﻮا ٍم‪ ،‬ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ أَﻋ َﺪ ْدﺗُﻬﺎ ﻟﻚ‪ ،‬ﻟﻢ أَ َر ﺑ ٍّﺪا ﻣﻦ إِرﺟﺎ ِﺋﻬﺎ ﺣﺘﱠﻰ ﺗﻘﺮأَ ﻫﺬ ِه اﻟ ﱢﺮ ْﺣﻠ َﺔ‬ ‫المﻌ ِﺠﺒَ َﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ أَ ْﻟﻬ َﻤ ْﺖ اﺑ َﻦ ﺑَ ﱡﻄﻮ َﻃ َﺔ ﺑﺪاﺋ َﻊ ِﻣ ْﻦ ﻣﻌﺎﻧﻴ ِﻪ اﻟﺮاﺋﻌ ِﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻫﻲ ﻗﺪ ﻣﺜﱠ َﻠ ْﺖ َﻋ ْ َﴫ »ﺻﻼ ِح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳ ِﻦ اﻷَﻳﱡﻮ ِﺑ ﱢﻲ« َو َﺻ ﱠﻮ َر ْت ﻧَﻮا ِﺣ َﻲ ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﻴﱠ ًﺔ ِﻣﻨْ ُﻪ‪ ،‬ﻻ ﻳﻨﺒﻐﻲ‬ ‫أَن ﻳَ ْﺠ َﻬ َﻠﻬﺎ ﻃﺎﻟ ٌﺐ ﰲ المﺪار ِس اﻟﺜﱠﺎﻧَ ِﻮﻳﺔ — ﰲ ِﻣﺜﻞ ﺳﻨﱢ َﻚ وﺛﻘﺎ َﻓ ِﺘ َﻚ — ﻓﻬﻞ أَﻓﺘﺘ ُﺢ ﺑﻬﺎ المﺠﻤﻮﻋ َﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺨﻴﱠ َﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ أَﻋ َﺪ ْدﺗُﻬﺎ ﻟﻚ؟‬ ‫‪٣‬‬ ‫َﻋ َﲆ أَﻧﱢ ِﻨﻲ ﻗ ِﺪ اﻧْﺘَﻬﻴْ ُﺖ إِ َﱃ إِﻟﺤﺎ ِﻗﻬﺎ ﺑﺎﻟ ِﻘ َﺼﺺ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﱠ ِﺔ؛ ﻷَﻧﱠﻬﺎ ﻛﺴﺎ ِﺑ َﻘ ِﺘﻬﺎ آﻳ ٌﺔ ﻣﻦ رواﺋﻊ اﻟﻔ ﱢﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺮﺑ ﱢﻲ واﻟﺘﻔﻜي ِر اﻟﻌﺮﺑ ﱢﻲ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻗﺪ َﺟ َﻤﻌ ْﺖ ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱢﺮﺣﻠ ُﺔ ﰲ ﺑﻌ ِﺾ ُﻓ ُﺼﻮﻟِﻬﺎ ال ُمﺒْ َﺪﻋ ِﺔ — إِﱃ ﻣﺎ ﺣ ﱠﺪﺛْﺘُ َﻚ ﺑﻪ ﻣﻦ ال َم َﺰاﻳﺎ —‬ ‫أَ َﻓﺎ ِﻧي َن ِﻣﻦ ﺻﺪ ِق اﻟﺘﻌﺒي ِر‪ ،‬وﺑﺮاﻋ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﺼﻮﻳ ِﺮ‪ ،‬واﺳﺘﻔﺎﺿ ِﺔ اﻟﻮﺻ ِﻒ‪ ،‬وأَ َﺻﺎ َﻟ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﻔﻜي ِر‪ ،‬و َﻃ ﱠﻮ َﻋ ْﺖ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ال َمﻌﺎﻧﻲ ال ُم ْﺴﺘَ ْﻌ ِﺼﻴَ ِﺔ‪ ،‬و َﺟ َﻠﺘْﻬﺎ ﰲ أَﺣﺴ ِﻦ َﻣ ْﻌ ِﺮ ٍض‪ ،‬وأَ َﴍ ِف ﺻﻴﺎﻏ ٍﺔ‪ ،‬وا ْﻓﺘ ﱠﻦ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ُﻣﺒْ ِﺪ ُﻋﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﺎ و ِﺳ َﻌ ُﻪ َﻃﺒْ ُﻌﻪ ال َم ْﻮ ُﻫﻮ ُب وﺧﻴﺎﻟُ ُﻪ اﻟ ِﺨ ْﺼ ُﺐ‪.‬‬ ‫َوأَ ْﻛ َﱪُ َﻇﻨﱢﻲ أَ ﱠن ﻫ ِﺬ ِه اﻟﺮﺣ َﻠ َﺔ َﺳﺘُ ْﻜ ِﺴﺒُ َﻚ — إِن ﺷﺎءَ ﷲُ — ُﻗﺪر ًة ﻋﲆ اﻟﺒﻴﺎ ِن‪ ،‬وﺗﻤ ﱡﻜﻨًﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻓ ﱢﻦ ا ِﻹﻧﺸﺎ ِء‪ ،‬و َﺳﺘَ ْﺰ َدا ُد ﺛﻘﺎ َﻓﺘُ َﻚ اﻟﻔﻜﺮﻳﱢ ُﺔ واﻟﺠﻐﺮاﻓﻴ ُﺔ واﻟ ﱢﺪﻳﻨﻴﱠ ُﺔ واﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺨﻴ ُﺔ واﻟ ﱡﻠ َﻐﻮﻳ ُﺔ ُﻛ ﱠﻠﻤﺎ‬ ‫أَ ْﻣ َﻌﻨْ َﺖ اﻟﻨﱠ َﻈﺮ‪ ،‬وأَﻃﻠ َﺖ اﻟ ﱠﺮ ِوﻳﱠ َﺔ ﰲ ﺗَ َﻔ ﱡﻬ ِﻤﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وا ْﺳﺘﻴﻌﺎ ِب ُﻃ َﺮ ِﻓﻬﺎ ال ُم ْﺴﺘَ ْﻤ َﻠﺤ ِﺔ ﻗﺮا َء ًة وﺗﻔﻜي ًرا‪.‬‬ ‫‪8‬‬

‫ﻣﻘ ّﺪ َﻣﺔ‬ ‫‪٤‬‬ ‫وﻗﺪ َﻛﺘ َﺐ ﻫﺬ ِه اﻟﺮﺣﻠ َﺔ ال ُمﻌ ِﺠﺒَﺔ »أَﺑﻮ اﻟ ُﺤ َﺴ ْي ِن ﻣﺤﻤ ُﺪ ﺑ ُﻦ ُﺟﺒ ْي ٍر اﻷَﻧﺪﻟ ِ ﱡﴘ«‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ ﻣﻦ » َﻏﺮﻧﺎ َﻃ َﺔ«‬ ‫إِ ْﺣﺪى َﺣﻮا ِ ِﴐ اﻷَﻧْﺪﻟُ ِﺲ ا ﱠﻟ ِﺘﻲ ا ْز َداﻧَ ْﺖ ﺑ َﻜﺜي ٍر ِﻣ ْﻦ ﺑَﺪا ِﺋ ِﻊ اﻵﺛﺎ ِر‪َ ،‬وﻻ ِﺳﻴﱠﻤﺎ َﻗ ْ ُﴫ ا ْﻟ َﺤ ْﻤﺮاءِ ا ﱠﻟ ِﺬي‬ ‫ﺗَﺮى َﻣ ْﺸ َﻬ ًﺪا ِﻣﻨﻪ ﰲ ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱡﺼﻮ َر ِة‪.‬‬ ‫وﻗ ِﺪ اﺑﺘﺪأَ »اﺑْ ُﻦ ُﺟﺒَ ْي ٍر« ِر ْﺣ َﻠﺘَ ُﻪ ﻫﺬ ِه ِﻣ ْﻦ » َﻏ ْﺮﻧﺎﻃ َﺔ«‪ .‬وﻛﺎ َن أَ ﱠو ُل ﺗﻘﻴﻴ ِﺪه ﻟﻬﺎ ﻛﻤﺎ ﻗﺎل‪» :‬ﻳﻮ َم‬ ‫ا ْﻟ ُﺠ ُﻤ َﻌ ِﺔ ال ُمﻮ ِﰲ ﺛﻼﺛي َن ﻟﺸﻬ ِﺮ َﺷﻮال ﺳﻨ َﺔ ﺛﻤﺎ ٍن وﺳﺒﻌي َن و َﺧ ْﻤ ِﺲ ﻣﺌﺔ‪ 2‬ﻋﲆ ﻣﺘ ِﻦ اﻟﺒﺤ ِﺮ‪.‬‬ ‫‪٥‬‬ ‫وﻗﺪ ﻛﺎن إِﻗﺒﺎﻟُ َﻚ ﻋﲆ اﻟﻘ ﱠﺼﺔ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﱠ ِﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﺑ ِﻘ ِﺔ »ﺣ ﱢﻲ ﺑ ِﻦ ﻳَ ْﻘﻈﺎ َن« ﺣﺎ ِﻓ ًﺰا ِﱄ و ُﻣ َﺸ ﱢﺠ ًﻌﺎ ﻋﲆ‬ ‫إِﻇﻬﺎ ِر ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱢﺮﺣﻠ ِﺔ — ﺑﻌ َﺪ أَ ْن أَ ْو َﺟ ْﺰﺗُﻬﺎ وﻓ ﱠﺼ ْﻠﺘُﻬﺎ َو ُﻋ ِﻨﻴ ُﺖ ِﺑﺘَﺒْ ِﻮﻳ ِﺒﻬﺎ َوﺗَﻴْ ِﺴي ِر أُﺳﻠﻮﺑﻬﺎ ﻟ َﻚ —‬ ‫ﺣﺘﻰ ﻻ ﺗَﺘَﻌﺜﱠ َﺮ — ﰲ أَﺛﻨﺎء ﻣﻄﺎﻟ َﻌ ِﺘﻬﺎ — ﺑﻤﺎ ﻳَﻨْﺒُﻮ ﻋﻨ ُﻪ ذو ُﻗ َﻚ اﻟ َﻐ ﱡﺾ‪ ،‬ﻣﻦ ال َمﻌﺎ ِﻧﻲ واﻟ ِﻌﺒﺎرا ِت‬ ‫المﻐ َﻠﻘ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻻ ﻳﻜﺎد ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ِﺴﻴ ُﻐﻬﺎ — ﰲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻌ ِﴫ اﻟﺤ ِﺪﻳ ِﺚ — ﻣﻦ ﻛﺎ َن ﰲ ِﻣﺜ ِﻞ ﺳﻨﱢ َﻚ‪ .‬وﻗ ْﺪ‬ ‫‪ ٢٥ 2‬ﻣﻦ ﻓﱪاﻳﺮ ﺳﻨﺔ ‪١١٨٣‬م‪.‬‬ ‫‪9‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫ﺣﺬﻓ ُﺖ اﻟﻔﻀﻮ َل ﻣﻨﻬﺎ‪ ،‬و َﻏ ﱠيرْ ُت ﺑﻌ َﺾ أَﻟﻔﺎ ِﻇﻬﺎ و ِﻋﺒﺎ َرا ِﺗﻬﺎ ﺣﺘﻰ ﻻ ﻳﺘ ﱠﻄﺮ َق اﻟ ﱠﺴﺄَ ُم إِﱃ ﻧﻔ ِﺴ َﻚ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻟﻜﻨﱠ ِﻨﻲ ﺗَ َﻮ ﱠﺧﻴْ ُﺖ ا ِﻻﻗﺘﺼﺎ َد ﰲ ذﻟﻚ — ﻣﺎ و ِﺳ َﻌﻨﻲ اﻟ َﺠ ْﻬ ُﺪ — ﻓﻠﻢ أَ ُﺣ ْﻞ ﺑﻴﻨ َﻚ وﺑي َن أُ ْﺳﻠﻮ ِب‬ ‫ال ُمﺆ ﱢﻟ ِﻒ إﻻﱠ َﻗ ِﻠﻴ ًﻼ‪.‬‬ ‫أَ ﱠﻣﺎ ﺑﻌ ُﺪ‪ ،‬ﻓﻘﺪ اﻧﺘﻘﻠ ُﺖ ِﺑ َﻚ — أَﻳﱡﻬﺎ اﻟﺼﺒ ﱡﻲ اﻟﻌﺰﻳ ُﺰ — ﰲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻜﺘﺎب وﺳﺎ ِﺑ ِﻘ ِﻪ إِﱃ َﻣ ْﺮﺣﻠ ٍﺔ‬ ‫ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ٍة‪ ،‬راﺟﻴًﺎ أَن ﺗَﺄْ َﻟ َﻒ أُﺳﻠﻮ َب ﻏيري ﻣﻦ اﻟﻜﺘﱠﺎ ِب والم َﺆ ﱢﻟ ِﻔي َن‪ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ أَ ِﻟ ْﻔ َﺖ أُ ْﺳﻠُﻮ ِﺑﻲ — ﻣﻦ ﻗﺒ ُﻞ‬ ‫— ﰲ اﻷَﻋﻮام ال َمﺎ ِﺿﻴ ِﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫و ﱠﻓ َﻘ ِﻨﻲ ﷲ إﱃ ﻧ ْﻔﻌ َﻚ وﺗَ ْﻌﻠﻴﻤ َﻚ‪ ،‬وﻳ ﱠ َﴪ ﷲُ ﻟ َﻚ ﺳﺒﻴ َﻞ اﻻْﻧﺘﻔﺎ ِع واﻟﺘﱠ َﻌ ﱡﻠ ِﻢ‪ ،‬وﻧَ َﻔ َﻊ ﷲ ﺑ َﻚ‬ ‫وﻃﻨَ َﻚ وﻟُ َﻐﺘَ َﻚ‪ ،‬إِﻧﱠ ُﻪ أَﻛﺮ ُم ﻣﺴﺌُﻮل‪.‬‬ ‫‪10‬‬

‫اﻟﻔﺼﻞ اﻷول‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻏﺮﻧﺎﻃﺔ إﱃ اﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳﺔ‬ ‫)‪ (1‬ﺑَ ْﺪ ُء اﻟ ﱠﺴ َﻔ ِﺮ‬ ‫ﻛﺎن اﻟ ﱠﺴ َﻔ ُﺮ وا ِﻻﻧ ِﻔﺼﺎ ُل ﻣﻦ » َﻏ ْﺮﻧَﺎﻃ َﺔ« َﺣ َﺮﺳﻬﺎ ﷲُ‪ ،‬ﻟﻠﻨﱢﻴﱠ ِﺔ اﻟ ِﺤﺠﺎزﻳﱠﺔ — َﻗ َﺮﻧﻬﺎ ﷲُ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﱠﻴْﺴي ِر‬ ‫واﻟﺘﱠ ْﺴ ِﻬﻴ ِﻞ‪ ،‬واﻟ ﱡﺼﻨْﻊ اﻟﺠ ِﻤﻴ ِﻞ — أَ ﱠو َل ﺳﺎﻋ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻳَ ْﻮ ِم اﻟﺨﻤﻴ ِﺲ‪ ،‬اﻟﺜﺎ ِﻣ ِﻦ ِﻟ َﺸ ْﻬ ِﺮ َﺷ ﱠﻮا ٍل َﺳﻨ َﺔ ﺛﻤﺎ ٍن‬ ‫وﺳﺒْ ِﻌي َن و َﺧ ْﻤ ِﺲ ﻣﺌﺔ‪َ ،‬و ِﺑ ُﻤﻮا َﻓ َﻘ ِﺔ ا ْﻟﻴَ ْﻮ ِم اﻟﺜﱠﺎ ِﻟ ِﺚ ِﻟ َﺸ ْﻬ ِﺮ ﻓﱪا ِﻳ َﺮ اﻷَ ْﻋ َﺠ ِﻤ ﱢﻲ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (2‬إِﱃ » َﺳﺒْﺘ َﺔ«‬ ‫وﻛﺎﻧَ ْﺖ ﻣﺮ َﺣ َﻠﺘُﻨﺎ إِ َﱃ َﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ »إِ ْﺳ ِﺘ َﺠ َﺔ«‪ ،‬ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ إِ َﱃ َﻏ ْي ِرﻫﺎ‪َ ،‬ﺣﺘﱠﻰ ﻳَ ﱠ َﴪ ﷲُ َﻋ َﻠﻴْﻨﺎ ﰲ ُﻋﺒﻮ ِر اﻟﺒَ ْﺤﺮ‬ ‫— إِ َﱃ َﻗ ْﴫ » َﻣ ْﺼﻤﻮ َد َة« — ﺗَﻴْﺴيرًا ﻋﺠﻴﺒًﺎ‪ .‬وﻧَﻬ ْﻀﻨﺎ ِﻣﻨْ ُﻪ إِ َﱃ »ﺳﺒْﺘَ َﺔ« ُﻏ ْﺪ َو َة ﻳﻮ ِم اﻷَ ْر ِﺑﻌﺎءِ‬ ‫اﻟﺜﺎﻣ ِﻦ وا ْﻟ ِﻌ ْ ِﴩﻳ َﻦ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺸﻬﺮ ال ُم َﺆ ﱠر ِخ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (3‬ﰲ َﻣ ْﺮ َﻛ ٍﺐ ُرو ِﻣ ﱟﻲ‬ ‫وأَ ْﻟ َﻔﻴْﻨﺎ ﺑﻬﺎ َﻣ ْﺮ َﻛﺒًﺎ ُرو ِﻣﻴٍّﺎ ِﻟﺒَ ْﻌ ِﺾ اﻷَﻫ ِﻠي َن ِﻣ ْﻦ ُﺳﻜﺎن » َﺟﻨَ َﻮ َة«‪ ،‬وﻛﺎ َن ُﻣ ْﻘ ِﻠ ًﻌﺎ إِ َﱃ اﻹ ْﺳ َﻜﻨْﺪرﻳﱠﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫َﻓﺴ ﱠﻬﻞ ﷲُ ﻋﻠﻴﻨﺎ اﻟ ﱡﺮﻛﻮ َب ِﻓﻴ ِﻪ‪ ،‬وأَ ْﻗ َﻠ ْﻌﻨﺎ ُﻇ ْﻬ َﺮ ﻳَ ْﻮ ِم اﻟﺨﻤﻴ ِﺲ‪ ،‬وﻛﺎن ﻃﺮﻳ ُﻘﻨﺎ ﰲ اﻟﺒﺤ ِﺮ ُﻣﺤﺎ ِذﻳًﺎ‬ ‫ِﻟ َ ﱢﱪ اﻷَﻧْ َﺪﻟُ ِﺲ‪.‬‬ ‫و ِﰲ ﺻ ِﺒﻴﺤ ِﺔ ﻳﻮ ِم ا ْﻟ ُﺠ ُﻤ َﻌ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺴﺎﺑ ِﻊ ﻟﺬي اﻟ َﻘ ْﻌﺪ ِة‪ ،‬ﻗﺎﺑ ْﻠﻨﺎ ﺑَ ﱠﺮ ﺟﺰﻳﺮ ِة »ﻳﺎﺑﺴ َﺔ«‪ ،‬ﺛُ ﱠﻢ َﻗﺎﺑَ ْﻠﻨَﺎ‬ ‫— ﻳﻮ َم اﻟﺴﺒ ِﺖ ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺪه — ﺑَ ﱠﺮ ﺟﺰﻳﺮ ِة » َﻣﻴُﻮرﻗ َﺔ«‪ ،‬ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ﻳَ ْﻮ َم اﻷَ َﺣ ِﺪ ﺑﻌ َﺪ ُه َﻗﺎﺑَ ْﻠﻨَﺎ َﺟ ِﺰﻳ َﺮ َة » ِﻣﻨُﻮرﻗﺔ«‬ ‫وﻣﻦ » َﺳﺒْﺘَ َﺔ« إ َﻟﻴْﻬﺎ ﻧَﺤ ُﻮ ﺛﻤﺎﻧﻴ ِﺔ َﻣ َﺠﺎ ٍر )وال َمﺠ َﺮى‪ :‬ﻣﺌﺔ ﻣﻴﻞ(‪.‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪ (4‬ﺟﺰﻳﺮة » َ ْﴎداﻧﻴﺔ«‬ ‫وﻓﺎر ْﻗﻨﺎ ﺑَ ﱠﺮ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺠﺰﻳﺮة‪ ،‬و َﻇ َﻬ َﺮ َﻟﻨﺎ ﺑ ﱡﺮ ﺟﺰﻳﺮة » َ ْﴎدا ِﻧﻴ َﺔ« أَ ﱠو َل ﻟﻴﻠ ِﺔ اﻟﺜﱡﻼﺛﺎ ِء‪ :‬اﻟﺤﺎدي‬ ‫ﻋ َ َﴩ ﻣﻦ اﻟ ﱠﺸ ْﻬ ِﺮ — د ْﻓﻌ ًﺔ واﺣﺪ ًة — ﻋ َﲆ ﻧﺤ ِﻮ ﻣﻴ ٍﻞ أَو أَ َﻗ ﱠﻞ‪َ .‬وﺑَ ْي َن اﻟﺠﺰﻳﺮﺗين‪ْ َ » :‬ﴎدا ِﻧﻴ َﺔ«‬ ‫و» ِﻣﻨُﻮرﻗ َﺔ« ﻧﺤ ُﻮ أَ ْرﺑَ ِﻊ ﻣﺌﺔ ﻣﻴﻞ‪ ،‬ﻓﻜﺎ َن ﻗ ْﻄ ًﻌﺎ ُﻣ ْﺴﺘَ ْﻐ َﺮﺑًﺎ ﰲ اﻟ ﱡﴪﻋ ِﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻃﺮأَ ﻋ َﻠﻴْﻨﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ ُﻣﻘﺎﺑَ َﻠ ِﺔ اﻟﺠﺰﻳﺮة — ِﰲ اﻟ ﱠﻠﻴ ِﻞ — ﻫ ْﻮ ٌل ﻋ ِﻈﻴ ٌﻢ‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﺼﻢ ﷲ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ ﺑﺮﻳ ٍﺢ‬ ‫أَ ْر َﺳ َﻠﻬﺎ ﰲ ذ ِﻟ َﻚ ا ْﻟ ِﺤي ِن — ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﺗ ْﻠﻘﺎءِ اﻟ َ ﱢﱪ — ﻓﺄَ ْﺧ َﺮﺟﺘْﻨَﺎ اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳ ُﺢ َﻋ ِﻦ اﻟ َﱪﱢ‪ ،‬واﻟﺤﻤ ُﺪ لله ﻋﲆ ذﻟﻚ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (5‬ﺿﻼل ال َم ْﺮ َﻛﺐ‬ ‫و ُﻛﻨﱠﺎ ﰲ ﺣﺎل اﻟ َﻮ ْﺣﺸﺔ واﻧْ ِﻐﻼق اﻟﺠﻬﺎ ِت ِﺑﺎ ْﻟ َﻤﻄﺮ‪ ،‬ﻓﻼ ﻧُ َﻤﻴﱢ ُﺰ َ ْﴍ ًﻗﺎ ﻣﻦ َﻏ ْﺮب‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ ْﻃ َﻠﻊ ﷲُ ﻋ َﻠﻴْﻨﺎ‬ ‫َﻣ ْﺮ َﻛﺒﺎ ﻟﻠ ﱡﺮو ِم‪َ ،‬ﻗ َﺼ َﺪﻧﺎ إِﱃ أَن ﺣﺎذَاﻧﺎ‪َ ،‬ﻓ ُﺴ ِﺌﻞ ﻋﻦ َﻣ ْﻘ ِﺼﺪ ِه‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ ْﺧﱪ أَﻧﱠ ُﻪ ﻳُﺮﻳ ُﺪ ﺟﺰﻳﺮ َة » ِﺻ ِﻘ ﱢﻠﻴَ َﺔ«‬ ‫وأَﻧﱠﻪ ﻣﻦ » َﻗ ْﺮ َﻃﺎ َﺟﻨﱠ َﺔ« — َﻋ َﻤ ِﻞ » ُﻣ ْﺮ ِﺳﻴَ َﺔ« — وﻗﺪ ُﻛﻨﱠﺎ ا ْﺳﺘَﻘﺒ ْﻠﻨﺎ ﻃﺮﻳ َﻘ ُﻪ ا ﱠﻟ ِﺘﻲ ﺟﺎ َء ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ َﻏ ْي ِر‬ ‫ِﻋ ْﻠ ٍﻢ‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ َﺧﺬْﻧﺎ ِﻋﻨْﺪ ذﻟﻚ ﰲ اﺗﱢﺒﺎ ِع أَﺛَ ِﺮه — وﷲُ ال ُمﻴَ ﱢ ُﴪ — ﻓﺨﺮج ﻋﻠﻴﻨﺎ ﻃ َﺮ ٌف ﻣﻦ ﺑَ ﱢﺮ » َ ْﴎدا ِﻧﻴ َﺔ«‬ ‫ال َمﺬﻛﻮر‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ َﺧ ْﺬﻧﺎ ﰲ اﻟ ﱡﺮﺟﻮ ِع َﻋ ْﻮ ًدا ﻋﲆ ﺑﺪءٍ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (6‬ﻋﺎ ِﺻ َﻔ ُﺔ ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ِﺮ‬ ‫وﰲ َﻟﻴْ َﻠ ِﺔ اﻷَ ْر ِﺑﻌﺎ ِء — اﻟﺘﺎﺳ َﻊ ﻋ َﴩ ﻟ ِﺬي اﻟ َﻘ ْﻌ َﺪة — ﻋﺼ َﻔ ْﺖ ﻋﻠﻴﻨَﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ أَ ﱠوﻟِﻬﺎ‪ ،‬رﻳ ٌﺢ ﻫﺎ َج ﻟﻬﺎ‬ ‫ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ُﺮ وﻫﺎل‪ ،‬وﺟﺎءَ ﻣﻌﻬﺎ ﻣ َﻄ ٌﺮ أَرﺳ َﻠﺘْ ُﻪ ﻋﻠﻴﻨﺎ اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳﺎ ُح ﺑ ُﻘ ﱠﻮة‪ ،‬ﻓﻜﺄَﻧﱠﻤﺎ أَ ْﻣ َﻄﺮﺗْﻨﺎ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻤﺎ ُء ِﺳﻬﺎ ًﻣﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻓ َﻌ ُﻈﻢ اﻟ َﺨ ْﻄ ُﺐ‪ ،‬وا ْﺷﺘَ ﱠﺪ اﻟ َﻜ ْﺮ ُب‪ ،‬وﺟﺎ َءﻧَﺎ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﻮ ُج — ﻣﻦ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻣﻜﺎن — أَﻣﺜﺎ َل اﻟ ِﺠﺒَﺎل اﻟﺴﺎ ِﺋ َﺮ ِة‪،‬‬ ‫ﻓﺒ ِﻘﻴﻨﺎ ﻋﲆ ِﺗ ْﻠﻚ ا ْﻟ َﺤﺎ ِل اﻟ ﱠﻠﻴ َﻞ ﻛ ﱠﻠﻪ‪ ،‬وا ْﻟﻴَﺄْ ُس ﻗ ْﺪ ﺑ َﻠﻎ ﻣﻨﱠﺎ َﻣﺒْ َﻠ َﻐﻪ‪ ،‬وارﺗ َﺠﻴْﻨَﺎ — ﻣﻊ اﻟ ﱠﺼﺒﺎ ِح —‬ ‫ُﻓ ْﺮﺟ ًﺔ ﺗُ َﺨ ﱢﻔ ُﻒ ﻋﻨﱠﺎ ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺾ ﻣﺎ ﻧ َﺰل ﺑﻨﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻓﺠﺎ َء اﻟﻨﱠﻬﺎ ُر ﺑﻤﺎ ﻫﻮ أَﺷ ﱡﺪ َﻫ ْﻮ ًﻻ‪ ،‬وأَﻋﻈ ُﻢ َﻛ ْﺮﺑًﺎ‪ ،‬وزا َد اﻟﺒﺤﺮ ا ْﻫ ِﺘﻴَﺎ ًﺟﺎ‪ ،‬وﺗﻐﻴﱠﻤ ِﺖ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻤﺎ ُء‪،‬‬ ‫وا ْﺳ َﻮ ﱠد ِت اﻵﻓﺎ ُق‪ ،‬وا ْﺷﺘ ﱠﺪ ِت اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳ ُﺢ وا ْﻟ َﻤﻄ ُﺮ ُﻋﺼﻮ ًﻓﺎ‪ ،‬ﺣﺘﻰ ﻟﻢ ﻳﺜْﺒُ ْﺖ ﻣﻌﻬﺎ ِﴍا ٌع‪ ،‬ﻓﻠﺠﺄْﻧﺎ إِ َﱃ‬ ‫ا ْﺳ ِﺘﻌﻤﺎل اﻟ ﱡ ُﴩ ِع اﻟ ﱢﺼﻐﺎ ِر‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَﺧﺬ ِت اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳ ُﺢ ِﴍا ًﻋﺎ ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ وﻣ ﱠﺰ َﻗﺘْ ُﻪ وﻛ َﴪ ِت اﻟ َﺨ َﺸﺒ َﺔ ا ﱠﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺮﺗﺒ ُﻂ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱡ ُﴩ ُع ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ ال َمﻌﺮو َﻓ ُﺔ ِﻋﻨْ َﺪﻫﻢ ِﺑﺎ ْﻟ َﻘ ِﺮﻳﱠ ِﺔ‪ .‬ﻓﺤﻴﻨﺌ ٍﺬ ﺗَ َﻤ ﱠﻜﻦ اﻟﻴﺄْ ُس ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﱡﻔﻮ ِس‪ ،‬وارﺗﻔﻌ ْﺖ‬ ‫‪12‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ ﻏﺮﻧﺎﻃﺔ إﱃ اﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳﺔ‬ ‫أَﻳﺪي ال ُمﺴﻠﻤي َن ﺑﺎﻟ ﱡﺪﻋﺎ ِء إِﱃ ِﷲ — ﻋ ﱠﺰ وﺟ ﱠﻞ — وأَﻗﻤﻨﺎ َﻋ َﲆ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﺤﺎ ِل اﻟﻨﻬﺎ َر ُﻛ ﱠﻠ ُﻪ‪ .‬ﻓﻠﻤﺎ َﺟ ﱠﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻠﻴ ُﻞ َﻓﱰ ِت اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳ ُﺢ ﺑ ْﻌ َﺾ ُﻓﺘﻮر‪ ،‬و ْﴎﻧﺎ — ﰲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺤﺎ ِل ُﻛ ﱢﻠﻬﺎ — ﺳيرًا َﴎﻳ ًﻌﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (7‬زوا ُل الِمﺤﻨ ِﺔ‬ ‫وﰲ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻴﻮ ِم ﺣﺎذَﻳْﻨﺎ ﺟﺰﻳﺮ َة » ِﺻ ِﻘ ﱢﻠﻴَ َﺔ«‪ ،‬و ِﺑﺘْﻨﺎ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﻠﻴﻠ َﺔ اﻟﺘﱠﺎ ِﻟﻴَ َﺔ ﻣ َ َﱰ ﱢد ِدﻳﻦ ﺑين اﻟ ﱠﺮﺟﺎء‬ ‫وا ْﻟﻴﺄْس‪ ،‬ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ أَ ْﺳ َﻔﺮ اﻟ ﱡﺼﺒْ ُﺢ ﻧ َﴩ ﷲُ َر ْﺣ َﻤﺘَﻪ‪ ،‬واﻧْﺠ َﲆ اﻟ َﻐﻴْ ُﻢ‪ ،‬وأَ ْﻗ َﺸﻌ ِﺖ اﻟ ﱠﺴﺤﺎ ُب‪ ،‬وﻃﺎ َب‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﻬﻮا ُء‪ ،‬وأَﺿﺎءَ ِت اﻟ ﱠﺸﻤ ُﺲ‪ ،‬وأ َﺧﺬَ ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ُﺮ ﰲ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻜﻮن‪ ،‬ﻓﺎ ْﺳﺘﺒ َﴩ اﻟﻨﱠﺎس‪ ،‬وﻋﺎد اﻷُﻧْ ُﺲ وذ َﻫﺐ‬ ‫اﻟﻴﺄَ ُس‪ ،‬وا ْﻟﺤﻤ ُﺪ للهِ اﻟﺬي أَراﻧﺎ َﻋﻈﻴ َﻢ ُﻗ ْﺪرﺗﻪ‪ ،‬ﺛﻢ ﺗَﻼ َﰱ ﺑﺠﻤﻴ ِﻞ رﺣﻤﺘ ِﻪ‪ ،‬وﻟﻄﻴ ِﻒ َرأْ َﻓ ِﺘ ِﻪ‪َ ،‬ﺣ ْﻤ ًﺪا‬ ‫ﻳﻜﻮ ُن ِﻛﻔﺎءَ ِﻣﻨﱠ ِﺘﻪ و ِﻧ ْﻌ َﻤﺘ ِﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫و ِﰲ ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱠﺼﺒﺎ ِح ﻇ َﻬﺮ ﻟﻨﺎ ﺑَ ﱡﺮ » ِﺻ ِﻘ ﱢﻠﻴَ َﺔ«‪ ،‬وﻗﺪ ا ْﺟﺘَ ْﺰﻧﺎ ﻣﻨﻪ أﻛﺜ َﺮ ُه‪ ،‬و َﻟ ْﻢ ﻳَﺒْ َﻖ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ إِﻻﱠ اﻷَ َﻗ ﱡﻞ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪َ (8‬ﺟﺒ ُﻞ اﻟ ُﱪْﻛﺎن‬ ‫ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻛﺎ َن َﻋ ْ ُﴫ ﻳﻮم ا ْﻟ ُﺠ ُﻤﻌﺔ أَ ْﻗ َﻠ ْﻌﻨَﺎ ﻣﻦ ال َمﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺬي ُﻛﻨﱠﺎ أَ ْر َﺳﻴْﻨﺎ ﻓﻴﻪ‪ ،‬وﻓﺎر ْﻗﻨﺎ اﻟ ﱠﱪ — أَ ﱠو َل‬ ‫ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﻠﻴﻠ ِﺔ — وأَﺻﺒَ ْﺤﻨَﺎ وﺑﻴﻨﻨﺎ وﺑﻴﻨ ُﻪ ﻣﺴﺎﻓ ٌﺔ ﺑﻌﻴﺪة‪ .‬وﻇﻬ َﺮ َﻟﻨﺎ — إِذْ ذا َك — اﻟﺠﺒَ ُﻞ اﻟﺬي‬ ‫ﻛﺎن ﻓﻴﻪ اﻟ ُ ْﱪﻛﺎن‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ َﺟﺒ ٌﻞ ﻋﻈﻴ ٌﻢ ُﻣ َﺼ ﱢﻌ ٌﺪ ﰲ َﺟ ﱢﻮ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻤﺎءِ‪َ ،‬ﻗ ْﺪ ﻛﺴﺎ ُه اﻟﺜﱠ ْﻠ ُﺞ‪ .‬وأُ ْﻋ ِﻠ ْﻤﻨﺎ أَﻧﱠﻪ ﻳَ ْﻈ َﻬ ُﺮ‬ ‫ﰲ اﻟﺒﺤﺮ — ﻣﻊ اﻟ ﱠﺼ ْﺤ ِﻮ — َﻋ َﲆ أَ ْزﻳَ َﺪ ِﻣﻦ ﻣﺌﺔ ﻣﻴ ٍﻞ‪ ،‬وأَ َﺧ ْﺬﻧَﺎ ﻧَ ُﺨﻮ ُض اﻷَ ْﻣﻮا َج واﻟ ﱡﻠ َﺠﺞ َﺧ ْﻮ ًﺿﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫وأَ ْﻗ َﺮ ُب ﻣﺎ ﻧُ َﺆ ﱢﻣﻠُﻪ ﻣ َﻦ اﻟ َﱪﱢ إ َﻟﻴْﻨَﺎ َﺟﺰﻳﺮ ُة »إِ ْﻗﺮﻳ ِﻄ َﺶ« َوﻫ َﻲ ﻣ ْﻦ ﺟﺰاﺋ ِﺮ اﻟ ﱡﺮو ِم اﻟﺘﱠﺎﺑﻌ ِﺔ ﻟﺼﺎﺣ ِﺐ‬ ‫اﻟ ُﻘ ْﺴ َﻄﻨْﻄﻴ ِﻨﻴﱠ ِﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫‪13‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪ (9‬ﻇﻬﻮ ُر المﻨﺎر‬ ‫و ِﰲ ﺻﺒﻴﺤ ِﺔ ﻳﻮ ِم اﻷَ ْر ِﺑﻌﺎ ِء اﻟﺴﺎ ِد ِس واﻟﻌﴩﻳ َﻦ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ َﻇﻬﺮ ﻟﻨﺎ اﻟ ﱡﱪ اﻟﻜﺒيرُ ال ُمﺘﱠﺼ ُﻞ ﺑﺎ ِﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫ال َمﻌﺮو ُف ِﺑ َ ﱢﱪ ا ْﻟ َﻐﺮب‪ ،‬وﺣﺎ َذﻳْﻨَﺎ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ ﻣﻮ ِﺿ ًﻌﺎ ﺑﻴﻨَ ُﻪ وﺑي َن ا ِﻹ ْﺳ َﻜﻨﺪرﻳ ِﺔ ﻧﺤ ُﻮ أَ ْرﺑَ ِﻊ ﻣﺌﺔ ﻣﻴﻞ‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﲆ‬ ‫ﻣﺎ ذُ ِﻛ َﺮ ﻟﻨَﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ َﺧﺬْﻧَﺎ ﰲ اﻟ ﱠﺴير‪ ،‬وا ْﻟ َ ﱡﱪ ال َمﺬْ ُﻛﻮ ُر ﻣﻨﱠﺎ ﻳﻤﻴﻨًﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وﰲ َﺻﺒﻴﺤ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺴﺒْ ِﺖ اﻟﺘﺎ ِﺳﻊ واﻟﻌﴩﻳ َﻦ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺸﻬﺮ‪ ،‬أَ ْﻃ َﻠﻊ ﷲُ َﻋ َﻠﻴﻨﺎ اﻟﺒُ ْ َﴩى ﺑﺎﻟ ﱠﺴﻼﻣﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫ﺑﻈﻬﻮر َﻣﻨﺎ ِر اﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳﱠ ِﺔ َﻋ َﲆ ﻧﺤﻮ اﻟ ِﻌ ْﴩﻳ َﻦ ﻣﻴ ًﻼ‪ ،‬واﻟﺤﻤ ُﺪ لله َﻋ َﲆ ذﻟ َﻚ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ِ (10‬ﻣﻴﻨﺎ ُء ا ِﻹ ْﺳ َﻜﻨْ َﺪ ِرﻳﱠ ِﺔ‬ ‫وﰲ آﺧﺮ اﻟﺴﺎ َﻋ ِﺔ اﻟﺨﺎﻣﺴ ِﺔ ِﻣ ْﻦ ذ ِﻟ َﻚ ا ْﻟﻴَ ْﻮ ِم‪ ،‬ﻛﺎن إِرﺳﺎ ُؤﻧﺎ ﺑ ُﻤ ْﺮ َﳻ ا ْﻟﺒﻠﺪ‪ ،‬وﻧُﺰوﻟُﻨﺎ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ إِﺛْﺮ ذﻟﻚ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻓﻜﺎﻧَ ْﺖ إﻗﺎﻣﺘُﻨﺎ َﻋ َﲆ َﻣﺘْ ِﻦ ا ْﻟﺒ ْﺤ ِﺮ ﺛﻼﺛين ﻳﻮ ًﻣﺎ‪ ،‬وﻧﺰوﻟُﻨﺎ ﰲ اﻟﺤﺎدي واﻟﺜﻼﺛين‪.‬‬ ‫وﻛﺎن ﻧُ ُﺰوﻟﻨﺎ ﺑ ُﻔﻨ ُﺪ ٍق ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮف ﺑ ُﻔﻨْ ُﺪ ِق »اﻟ ﱠﺼ ﱠﻔﺎر«‪ِ ،‬ﺑ َﻤ ْﻘ َﺮﺑﺔ ﻣ َﻦ »اﻟ ﱠﺼﺒﱠﺎﻧَ ِﺔ«‬ ‫‪14‬‬

‫اﻟﻔﺼﻞ اﻟﺜﺎﻧﻲ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻹ ْﺳﻜﻨﺪر َﻳﺔ إﱃ اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ‫)‪ (1‬أُ َﻣﻨﺎءُ اﻟﺴﻠﻄﺎن‬ ‫وﻛﺎن أَ ﱠو ُل ﺷﻬﺮ ذي ا ْﻟ ِﺤ ﱠﺠ ِﺔ ُﻫ َﻮ ا ْﻟﻴَ ْﻮ َم اﻟﺜﱠﺎ ِﻧ َﻲ ا ﱠﻟ ِﺬي َﺣ َﻠ ْﻠﻨﺎ ﻓﻴ ِﻪ ﺑﺎ ِﻹ ْﺳ َﻜﻨْ َﺪ ِرﻳﱠﺔ‪َ ،‬وأَ ﱠو ُل ﻣﺎ ﺷﺎ َﻫ ْﺪﻧَﺎ‬ ‫ﻳﻮ َم ﻧُﺰوﻟﻨﺎ أَ ْن ﻃ َﻠﻊ أُﻣﻨﺎءُ إِﱃ ال َم ْﺮ َﻛ ِﺐ — ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﻗﺒ ِﻞ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ِن — ﻟﺘﻘﻴﻴ ِﺪ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ ﻣﺎ ُﺟ ِﻠ َﺐ‬ ‫ﻓﻴﻪ‪ ،‬ﻓﺎ ْﺳﺘُﺤ ِﴬ َﻣ ْﻦ ﻛﺎ َن ﻓﻴ ِﻪ ﻣﻦ ال ُم ْﺴ ِﻠﻤي َن ﺟﻤﻴ ًﻌﺎ — واﺣ ًﺪا واﺣ ًﺪا — و ُﻛ ِﺘﺒَ ْﺖ أَﺳﻤﺎ ُؤ ُﻫﻢ‬ ‫و ِﺻ َﻔﺎﺗُﻬﻢ وأَﺳﻤﺎ ُء ﺑﻼدﻫﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (2‬ﺗَ َﻌ ﱡﺴ ُﻒ اﻷُﻣﻨﺎ ِء‬ ‫و ُﺳ ِﺌﻞ ﻛ ﱡﻞ َوا ِﺣﺪ ِﻣﻨﱠﺎ َﻋ ﱠﻤﺎ َﻟ َﺪﻳْ ِﻪ ﻣﻦ ِﺳ َﻠ ٍﻊ ِﻟﻴُ ﱢﺆ ﱢد َي َز َﻛﺎ َة ذﻟ َﻚ ُﻛ ﱢﻠ ِﻪ ُدو َن أَ ْن ﻳُﺒْﺤ َﺚ َﻋ ﱠﻤﺎ ﺗَ ِﺠ ُﺐ‬ ‫َﻋ َﻠﻴْ ِﻪ اﻟ ﱠﺰﻛﺎ ُة — ِﻣ ْﻦ ذﻟﻚ — َو َﻣﺎ َﻟ ْﻢ ﺗَ ِﺠ ْﺐ‪ .‬و َﻛﺎ َن أَ ْﻛﺜَ ُﺮﻫﻢ ﻣﺴﺎﻓﺮﻳ َﻦ ﻷَداءِ ا ْﻟ َﻔﺮﻳ َﻀ ِﺔ‪َ ،‬ﻟ ْﻢ‬ ‫ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺼ ِﺤﺒُﻮا ِﺳ َﻮى زا ٍد ِﻟ َﻄﺮﻳ ِﻘﻬ ْﻢ‪ ،‬ﻓ َﻠ ِﺰﻣﻮا أَدا َء َزﻛﺎ ِة ذ ِﻟ َﻚ ُﻛ ﱢﻠ ِﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (3‬اﻷُ ْﺣﺪوﺛَ ُﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻴﱢﺌَ ُﺔ‬ ‫وﻫﺬه ﻻ َﻣﺤﺎﻟ َﺔ ِﻣ َﻦ اﻷُﻣﻮ ِر ا ﱠﻟ ِﺘﻲ أَ ْﺧ َﻔ ْﻮا ﺣﻘﻴﻘﺘَﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻟﺒﱠ ُﺴﻮا أَ ْﻣ َﺮ َﻫﺎ َﻋ َﲆ اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠ َﻄﺎن اﻟﻜﺒي ِر‬ ‫ال َمﻌﺮو ِف ﺑ»ﺻﻼ ِح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳ ِﻦ«‪ .‬و َﻟ ْﻮ َﻋ ِﻠﻢ ﺑﺬﻟﻚ — َﻋ َﲆ ﻣﺎ ﻳُ ْﺆﺛَ ُﺮ َﻋﻨْ ُﻪ ﻣﻦ اﻟ َﻌ ْﺪ ِل وإِﻳﺜَﺎ ِر اﻟ ﱢﺮ ْﻓﻖ —‬ ‫ﻷَزا َل ذﻟﻚ‪ ،‬وﻛﻔﻰ ﷲُ ال ُم ْﺆﻣ ِﻨي َن ِﺗﻠﻚ ا ْﻟ ُﺨ ﱠﻄ َﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺸﺎ ﱠﻗ َﺔ‪ ،‬واﺳﺘَﺄْ َد ْوا َزﻛﺎﺗَ ُﻬ ْﻢ‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ ﱠداﻫﺎ اﻟﻨﱠﺎ ُس َﻋ َﲆ‬ ‫أَﺟﻤ ِﻞ اﻟ ُﻮﺟﻮ ِه‪.‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫وﻣﺎ َﻟ ِﻘﻴﻨﺎ ﺑﺒﻼ ِد ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱠﺮ ُﺟ ِﻞ — ﻣﻤﺎ ﺗَ ْﻘﺒُ ُﺢ ِذ ْﻛﺮا ُه — ِﺳ َﻮى ﻫﺬ ِه اﻷُ ْﺣ ُﺪوﺛَ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻫﻲ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻧَﺘﺎﺋﺞ ُﻋ ﱠﻤﺎ ِل اﻟ ﱠﺪواوﻳ ِﻦ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (4‬ﻋﺠﺎﺋﺐ اﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳﺔ‬ ‫وﻣ ﱠﻤﺎ أُ ْﻋ ِﺠﺒْﻨَﺎ ﺑﻪ ُﺣ ْﺴ ُﻦ و ْﺿ ِﻊ اﻟﺒﻠﺪ‪ ،‬واﺗﱢﺴﺎ ُع أَز ﱠﻗ ِﺘ ِﻪ وﻣﺒﺎﻧﻴ ِﻪ‪ ،‬ﺣﺘﱠﻰ إِﻧﱠﻨَﺎ َﻣﺎ َﺷﺎﻫﺪﻧَﺎ ﺑﻠ ًﺪا أَ ْو َﺳ َﻊ‬ ‫َﻣﺴﺎ ِﻟ َﻚ ِﻣﻨْ ُﻪ‪ ،‬وﻻ أَ ْﻋ َﲆ َﻣﺒْﻨًﻰ وﻻ أَ ْﺣﺴ َﻦ ﻣﻨْ َﻈ ًﺮا‪ ،‬وﻻ أَ ْﺣ َﻔ َﻞ ﻣﻨﻪ أَ ْﺳﻮا ًﻗﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫و ِﻣ َﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻌﺠ ِﺐ ﰲ َوﺿﻌﻪ أَ ﱠن ِﺑﻨﺎءَه ﺗَ ْﺤ َﺖ اﻷَ ْر ِض ﻛﺒﻨﺎﺋﻪ ﻓﻮ َﻗﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وأَ ْﻋﺘَ ُﻖ وأَ ْﻣﺘَ ُﻦ‪َ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ‬ ‫أَ ﱠن المﺎ َء ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟﻨﱢﻴﻞ ﻳ ْﺨ َﱰ ُق ﺟﻤﻴﻊ ِدﻳﺎرﻫﺎ وأَز ﱠﻗ ِﺘﻬﺎ ﺗَ ْﺤ َﺖ اﻷَ ْر ِض‪َ ،‬ﻓﺘَﺘﱠ ِﺼ ُﻞ اﻵﺑﺎ ُر — ﺑ ْﻌ ُﻀﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺑﺒَ ْﻌﺾ — وﻳُ ِﻤ ﱡﺪ ﺑﻌ ُﻀﻬﺎ ﺑﻌ ًﻀﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻋﺎﻳﻨﱠﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ أَﻳ ًﻀﺎ ﻣﻦ َﺳﻮاري اﻟ ﱡﺮﺧﺎم وأَ ْﻟﻮا ِﺣ ِﻪ — َﻛﺜْﺮ ًة و ُﻋﻠُ ٍّﻮا واﺗﱢ َﺴﺎ ًﻋﺎ و ُﺣ ْﺴﻨًﺎ — ﻣﺎ‬ ‫ﻻ ﻳُﺘَ َﺨﻴﱠ ُﻞ ﺑﺎ ْﻟ َﻮﻫﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (5‬ﻣﻨﺎر ا ِﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳﺔ‬ ‫وﻣﻦ أَ ْﻋ َﻈ ِﻢ ﻣﺎ ﺷﺎ َﻫ ْﺪﻧﺎ ُه ﻣﻦ ﻋﺠﺎ ِﺋﺒﻬﺎ »ا ْﻟ َﻤﻨَﺎ ُر«‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ آﻳ ٌﺔ ﻟﻠ ُﻤﺘَ َﻮ ﱢﻛﻠي َن و ِﻫﺪاﻳ ٌﺔ ِﻟ ْﻠ ُﻤﺴﺎ ِﻓﺮﻳ َﻦ‪،‬‬ ‫َﻟ ْﻮﻻَ ُه ﻣﺎ ا ْﻫﺘَ َﺪ ْوا ﰲ ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ِﺮ إِﱃ ﺑ ﱢﺮ ا ِﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳﺔ‪ .‬وﻳَ ْﻈ َﻬ ُﺮ ﻋﲆ أَ ْزﻳَ َﺪ ﻣﻦ ﺳﺒﻌين ِﻣﻴ ًﻼ‪ .‬وﻣﺒْﻨَﺎ ُه‬ ‫ﰲ ﻏﺎﻳَ ِﺔ اﻟ َﻌﺘﺎ َﻗ ِﺔ واﻟ َﻮﺛَﺎ َﻗ ِﺔ — ُﻃﻮ ًﻻ و َﻋ ْﺮ ًﺿﺎ — ﻳُ َﺰا ِﺣ ُﻢ ا ْﻟ َﺠ ﱠﻮ ُﺳ ُﻤ ٍّﻮا وارﺗﻔﺎ ًﻋﺎ‪َ ،‬وﻳَ ْﻘ ُﴫ ﻋﻨْ ُﻪ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﻮ ْﺻ ُﻒ‪ ،‬وﻳَﻨْ َﺤ ِ ُﴪ ُدوﻧَ ُﻪ اﻟ ﱠﻄ ْﺮ ُف‪ .‬ذَ َر ْﻋﻨﺎ أَ َﺣ َﺪ ﺟﻮاﻧ ِﺒﻪ اﻷَ ْرﺑَ ِﻊ‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ ْﻟ َﻔﻴْﻨَﺎ ﻓﻴﻪ َﺧ ْﻤ ِﺴي َن ﺑﺎ ًﻋﺎ‬ ‫َوﻧَﻴﱢ ًﻔﺎ‪ ،‬وﻳُ ْﺬ َﻛ ُﺮ أَ ﱠن ِﰲ ُﻃﻮ ِﻟ ِﻪ أَ ْﻛﺜَ َﺮ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺌﺔ وﺧﻤﺴي َن َﻗﺎ َﻣ ًﺔ‪ ،‬وأَ ﱠﻣﺎ دا ِﺧ َﻠ ُﻪ َﻓ َﻤ ْﺮأَى ﻫﺎ ِﺋ ٌﻞ اﺗﱢﺴﺎ ُﻋﻪ‪:‬‬ ‫َﻣﻌﺎر َج َو َﻣ َﺪا ِﺧ َﻞ‪ ،‬و َﻛﺜْ َﺮ َة َﻣﺴﺎ ِﻛ َﻦ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (6‬اﻟﻌﻨﺎﻳﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻐﺮﺑﺎءِ‬ ‫و ِﻣ ْﻦ ﻣﻨﺎﻗ ِﺐ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺒﻠ ِﺪ وﻣﻔﺎ ِﺧﺮه — اﻟ َﻌﺎ ِﺋ َﺪ ِة ﰲ اﻟﺤﻘﻴﻘﺔ إِ َﱃ ُﺳ ْﻠ َﻄﺎ ِﻧ ِﻪ — المﺪار ُس اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫أَﻧْ َﺸﺄَﻫﺎ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ُن ﻷَ ْﻫﻞ اﻟ ﱠﻄﻠ ِﺐ واﻟﺘﱠﻌﺒﱡ ِﺪ‪ ،‬اﻟﺬﻳ َﻦ ﻳ ِﻔﺪون ﻣﻦ اﻷَﻗﻄﺎر اﻟﻨﺎﺋﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﻴَﻠﻘﻰ ﻛﻞ واﺣﺪ‬ ‫ﻣﻨﻬﻢ ﻣﺴﻜﻨًﺎ ﻳﺄَ ِوي إِﻟﻴﻪ‪ ،‬وﻣﺪر ًﺳﺎ ﻳﻌﻠﻤﻪ اﻟﻔ ﱠﻦ اﻟﺬي ﻳﺮﻳ ُﺪ ﺗﻌ ﱠﻠ َﻤﻪ‪ ،‬وأَ ْﺟ ًﺮا ﻳ ْﻜ ِﻔﻴﻪ ﰲ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ‬ ‫أَﺣﻮاﻟﻪ‪ ،‬وﻣ َﺤﺎر َس ﻟ ِﺤﺮاﺳﺘﻪ وﺗﺄْ ِﻣﻴﻨ ِﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫‪16‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻹ ْﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳَﺔ إﱃ اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ‫واﺗﺴ َﻊ اﻋﺘﻨﺎءُ اﻟﺴﻠﻄﺎ ِن ﺑﻬﺆﻻ ِء اﻟ ُﻐ َﺮﺑﺎءِ اﻟﻄﺎ ِرﺋي َن‪ ،‬ﺣﺘﱠﻰ أَ َﻣﺮ ﺑﺘﻌﻴين ﺣ ﱠﻤﺎﻣﺎ ٍت ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ِﺤ ﱡﻤﻮن‬ ‫ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﺘﻰ اﺣﺘﺎ ُﺟﻮا إِﱃ ذﻟﻚ‪ ،‬وﻧ َﺼﺐ َﻟ ُﻬ ْﻢ ُﻣ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺸ ًﻔﻰ ﻟﻌﻼج َﻣﻦ َﻣ ِﺮ َض ﻣﻨﻬ ُﻢ‪ ،‬وو َﻛ َﻞ ﺑﻬﻢ‬ ‫أَ ِﻃﺒﱠﺎءَ ﻳﺘﻔﻘﺪون أَﺣﻮا َﻟﻬﻢ‪ .‬وﺗﺤﺖ أَﻳْ ِﺪﻳﻬﻢ ُﺧ ﱠﺪا ٌم ﻳَﺄْ ُﻣﺮوﻧَﻬﻢ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﱠﻈﺮ ﰲ ﻣﺼﺎ ِﻟﺤﻬﻢ اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﻳُ ِﺸيرو َن ﺑﻬﺎ‪ِ ،‬ﻣ ْﻦ ﻋﻼ ٍج و ِﻏﺬا ٍء‪ .‬و َﻗ ْﺪ ُرﺗﱢ َﺐ — أَﻳ ًﻀﺎ — ﻓﻴ ِﻪ أَﻗﻮا ٌم ِﺑ َﺮ ْﺳ ِﻢ اﻟ ﱢﺰﻳَﺎرة ِﻟ ْﻠﻤ ْﺮ َﴇ‬ ‫اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻳﺄْﻧَ ُﻔﻮ َن ِﻣ ْﻦ ُد ُﺧﻮ ِل ذﻟﻚ المﺎ َر ْﺳﺘﺎ ِن )ال ُمﺴﺘﺸﻔﻰ( — ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ُﻐ َﺮﺑﺎ ِء ﺧﺎ ﱠﺻ ًﺔ — وﻳُﻨْ ُﻬﻮن‬ ‫إِﱃ اﻷَﻃﺒﺎ ِء أَﺣﻮا َﻟﻬﻢ‪ِ ،‬ﻟﻴﺘ َﻜ ﱠﻔﻠﻮا ﺑ ُﻤﻌﺎ َﻟ َﺠ ِﺘﻬﻢ و ُﻫ ْﻢ ﰲ ﺑُﻴﻮﺗِﻬ ْﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣ ْﻦ أَ ْﴍ ِف ﻫﺬه ال َمﻘﺎﺻ ِﺪ أَﻳ ًﻀﺎ أَ ﱠن اﻟﺴﻠﻄﺎ َن َﻋ ﱠي َن ﻷَﺑْﻨﺎ ِء اﻟ ﱠﺴﺒﻴ ِﻞ — ِﻣ َﻦ ال َمﻐﺎ ِرﺑ ِﺔ —‬ ‫ُﺧﺒْ َﺰﺗين ِﻟ ُﻜ ﱢﻞ إِﻧﺴﺎ ٍن ﰲ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻳَ ْﻮم‪ ،‬ﺑﺎ ِﻟ ًﻐﺎ ﻣﺎ ﺑﻠ ُﻐﻮا‪ ،‬وﻧَ َﺼﺐ ِﻟﺘَ ْﻔ ِﺮﻳﻖ ذﻟﻚ — ﻛ ﱠﻞ ﻳَ ْﻮ ٍم — إﻧﺴﺎﻧًﺎ‬ ‫أَ ِﻣﻴﻨًﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﻗﺒَﻠﻪ‪ .‬وﻟﻬﺬا ُﻛ ﱢﻠ ِﻪ أَوﻗﺎ ٌف ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﻗﺒَﻠ ِﻪ‪َ ،‬ﺣﺎ َﺷﺎ َﻣﺎ َﻋﻴﱠﻨَ ُﻪ َﻟ ُﻪ ﻣﻦ َزﻛﺎة اﻟ َﻌ ْي ِن‪ .‬وأَ ﱠﻛ َﺪ َﻋ َﲆ‬ ‫ال ُمﺘَ َﻮ ﱢﻟين ِﻟﺬﻟﻚ — َﻣﺘﻰ ﻧ َﻘﺼ ُﻬﻢ ﻣﻦ اﻷَ ْﻣﻮا ِل واﻟﻮ َﻇﺎ ِﺋﻒ ال َم ْﺮ ُﺳﻮ َﻣ ِﺔ َ ْﳾءٌ — أَن ﻳَ ْﺮ ِﺟﻌﻮا إِﱃ‬ ‫ُﺻ ْﻠ ِﺐ ﻣﺎ ِﻟﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (7‬دﺳﺎﺋﺲ المﺘَ َﻘ ﱢﺮﺑين‬ ‫وﻫﺬا اﻟﺴﻠﻄﺎ ُن ا ﱠﻟ ِﺬي ﺳ ﱠﻦ ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱡﺴﻨَ َﻦ ال َمﺤﻤﻮ َد َة‪ ،‬ورﺳﻢ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺮﺳﻮ َم اﻟﻜﺮﻳﻤ َﺔ‪ ،‬ﻫﻮ » َﺻﻼ ُح‬ ‫اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳﻦ أَﺑﻮ ا ْﻟ ُﻤ َﻈ ﱠﻔ ِﺮ ﻳﻮ ُﺳ ُﻒ ﺑْ ُﻦ أَﻳﱡﻮ َب« و َﺻ َﻞ ﷲُ َﺻﻼ َﺣ ُﻪ َوﺗﻮﻓﻴ َﻘ ُﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣ ْﻦ أَﻋﺠ ِﺐ ﻣﺎ اﺗﱠ َﻔﻖ ﻟﻠﻐﺮﺑﺎءِ أَ ﱠن ﺑﻌ َﺾ ﻣﻦ ﻳُﺮﻳﺪ اﻟﺘَﻘ ﱡﺮ َب ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺼﺎ ِﺋﺢ إِﱃ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ِن‪،‬‬ ‫ذﻛ َﺮ‪ :‬أَ ﱠن أﻛﺜ َﺮ ﻫﺆﻻءِ ﻳﺄ ُﺧﺬون ِﺟ َﺮاﻳ َﺔ ا ْﻟ ُﺨﺒْﺰ‪ ،‬وﻻ ﺣﺎﺟ َﺔ ﻟ ُﻬﻢ ﺑﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻷَﻧﱠﻬﻢ ﻻ ﻳَ ِﺼﻠُﻮن إِﻻ ِﺑ َﺰا ٍد‬ ‫ﻳَ ْﻜﻔﻴﻬﻢ‪ ،‬ﻓﻜﺎد ﻳُ َﺆﺛﱢﺮ ﺳﻌ ُﻲ ﻫﺬا ال ُمﺘَﻨَ ﱢﺼ ِﺢ ال ُمﺘَ َﻈﺎ ِﻫ ِﺮ ﺑﺎ ْﻟ َﻐ ْير ِة‪.‬‬ ‫‪17‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪ (8‬ﻋﺪل ﺻﻼح اﻟﺪﻳﻦ‬ ‫ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻛﺎ َن ﰲ أَ َﺣ ِﺪ اﻷَﻳﱠﺎ ِم ﺧﺮج اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ُن — َﻋ َﲆ ﺳﺒﻴ ِﻞ اﻟﺘﱠﻄ ﱡﻠ ِﻊ — ﺧﺎر َج ﺑﻠﺪ ِه‪ ،‬ﻓﺘَﻠ ﱠﻘﻰ ﻣﻨﻬﻢ‬ ‫ﺟﻤﺎﻋ ًﺔ ﻗﺪ َﻟ َﻔﻈﺘ ُﻬﻢ اﻟ ﱠﺼ ْﺤ َﺮاءُ ال ُمﺘﱠﺼﻠ ُﺔ ﺑﻄﺮاﺑُ ْﻠ َﺲ — وﻗﺪ ﻛﺎدوا ﻳَ ْﻬ ِﻠﻜﻮ َن َﻋ َﻄ ًﺸﺎ و ُﺟﻮ ًﻋﺎ —‬ ‫ﻓﺴﺄَ َﻟ ُﻬﻢ ﻋﻦ ِو ْﺟ َﻬﺘﻬﻢ‪ ،‬واﺳﺘﻄﻠﻊ ﻣﺎ ﻟﺪﻳﻬﻢ‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَﻋﻠﻤﻮه أَﻧﻬﻢ ﻗﺎﺻﺪو َن إِﱃ ﺑﻴ ِﺖ ِﷲ اﻟﺤﺮا ِم‬ ‫وأَﻧﻬﻢ َر ِﻛﺒﻮا اﻟ َ ﱠﱪ‪ ،‬وﻛﺎﺑﺪوا َﻣ َﺸ ﱠﻘ َﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺼ ْﺤﺮاءِ‪ .‬ﻓﻘﺎل‪َ » :‬ﻟ ْﻮ َوﺻﻞ ﻫﺆﻻءِ‪ ،‬و ُﻫ ْﻢ ﻗﺪ ا ْﻋﺘَﺴ ُﻔﻮا ﻫﺬه‬ ‫المﺠﺎ ِﻫ َﻞ ) َﺳﺎ ُروا ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻋﲆ َﻏ ْي ِر َﻣ ْﻌ ِﺮ َﻓﺔ( وﻛﺎﺑ ُﺪوا ﻣﻦ اﻟ ﱠﺸ َﻘﺎ ِء ﻣﺎ ﻛﺎﺑَ ُﺪوا‪ ،‬و ِﺑﻴﺪ ُﻛ ﱢﻞ واﺣﺪ ﻣﻨﻬﻢ‬ ‫ِزﻧﺘُﻪ ذﻫﺒًﺎ وﻓﻀ ًﺔ‪ ،‬ﻟ َﻮﺟﺐ أَ ْن ﻳُ َﺴﺎ َﻋ ُﺪوا وﻻ ﻳُ ْﻘ َﻄ ُﻌﻮا ﻋﻦ اﻟﻌﺎد ِة ا ﱠﻟﺘﻲ أَ ْﺟ َﺮﻳﻨﺎﻫﺎ و َوﻗﻔﻨﺎﻫﺎ‬ ‫ﻋ َﻠﻴْﻬﻢ‪ ،‬ﻓﺎ ْﻟ َﻌﺠﺐ ِﻣ ﱠﻤﻦ ﻳَ ْﺴ َﻌﻰ ﻋﲆ ِﻣﺜْﻞ ﻫﺆﻻءِ وﻳﺮو ُم اﻟﺘﻘ ﱡﺮ َب إِﻟﻴْﻨﺎ ِﺑﺎﻟ ﱠﺴﻌﻲ ﰲ َﻗ ْﻄ ِﻊ ﻣﺎ‬ ‫أَو َﺟﺒْﻨﺎ ُه — للهِ ﻋ ﱠﺰ و َﺟ ﱠﻞ — ﺧﺎﻟ ًﺼﺎ ﻟ َﻮ ْﺟ ِﻬ ِﻪ«‪.‬‬ ‫و َﻣﺂ ِﺛ ُﺮ ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠ َﻄﺎ ِن وﻣﻘﺎﺻ ُﺪه ِﰲ ا ْﻟ َﻌ ْﺪ ِل ﻻ ﺗُ ْﺤﴡ َﻛﺜْﺮ ًة‪.‬‬ ‫)‪َ (9‬ﻣﺴﺎﺟ ُﺪ ا ِﻹﺳ َﻜﻨ َﺪرﻳ ِﺔ‬ ‫وﻣ َﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻐ ِﺮﻳ ِﺐ أَﻳْ ًﻀﺎ — ﰲ أَﺣﻮا ِل ﻫ َﺬا اﻟﺒَ َﻠ ِﺪ — ﺗ ﱡﴫ ُف اﻟﻨﱠﺎ ِس ﻓﻴ ِﻪ ﺑﺎﻟ ﱠﻠﻴْ ِﻞ ﻛﺘَ ﱡﴫ ِﻓﻬﻢ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﻬﺎ ِر‪،‬‬ ‫ِﰲ َﺟ ِﻤﻴ ِﻊ أَ ْﺣﻮا ِﻟﻬ ْﻢ‪ .‬وﻫﻮ أَ ْﻛﺜَ ُﺮ ﺑﻼ ِد ِﷲ ﻣﺴﺎ ِﺟ َﺪ‪ ،‬ﺣﺘﱠﻰ َﻟﻴَ ُﻜﻮ ُن ِﻣﻨْﻬﺎ اﻷَ ْرﺑَ َﻌ ُﺔ وا ْﻟ َﺨ ْﻤ َﺴ ُﺔ ﰲ‬ ‫‪18‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻹ ْﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳَﺔ إﱃ اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ‫َﻣﻮﺿﻊ‪ .‬و ُرﺑﱠﻤﺎ َﻛﺎ َن َﻟﻬﺎ أَ ِﺋ ﱠﻤ ٌﺔ ُﻣ َﺮﺗﱠﺒُﻮ َن ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﻗﺒَ ِﻞ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ِن‪َ .‬ﻓ ِﻤﻨْ ُﻬﻢ َﻣ ْﻦ ﻟﻪ َﺧ ْﻤ َﺴ ُﺔ َدﻧَﺎ ِﻧيرَ‬ ‫ﻣ ْﴫﻳﱠ ٍﺔ ﰲ اﻟ ﱠﺸ ْﻬ ِﺮ‪َ ،‬وﻣﻨْ ُﻬﻢ َﻣ ْﻦ َﻟ ُﻪ َﻓ ْﻮ َق ذ ِﻟ َﻚ‪ ،‬وﻣﻨْ ُﻬﻢ ﻣ ْﻦ َﻟ ُﻪ ُدوﻧَ ُﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (10‬ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ »دﻣﻨﻬﻮر«‬ ‫ﺛُ ﱠﻢ َﻛﺎن ا ِﻻﻧ ِﻔﺼﺎ ُل ﻋ ِﻦ ا ِﻹﺳ َﻜﻨْﺪ ِرﻳ ِﺔ — َﻋ َﲆ ﺑَﺮ َﻛ ِﺔ ِﷲ و ُﺣ ْﺴ ِﻦ َﻋ ْﻮ ِﻧ ِﻪ — َﺻﺒﻴﺤ َﺔ ﻳ ْﻮ ِم اﻷَ َﺣ ِﺪ‬ ‫اﻟﺜﱠﺎ ِﻣ ِﻦ ﻟ ِﺬي ا ْﻟ ِﺤ ﱠﺠ ِﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﻜﺎﻧَ ْﺖ َﻣ ْﺮ َﺣ َﻠﺘُﻨﺎ ِﻣﻨْ ُﻪ إِ َﱃ َﻣﻮﺿ ٍﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑ»د َﻣﻨْ ُﻬﻮ َر«‪ ،‬وﻫ َﻮ ﺑَ َﻠ ٌﺪ ُﻣ َﺴ ﱠﻮ ٌر‬ ‫ِﰲ ﺑَ ِﺴﻴ ٍﻂ — ِﻣ َﻦ اﻷَ ْر ِض — أَ ْﻓﻴَ َﺢ ) َﻓ ِﺴﻴ ٍﺢ َر ْﺣ ٍﺐ(‪ ،‬وﻫﺬا ا ْﻟﺒ ِﺴﻴﻂ ُﻣﺘﱠ ِﺼ ٌﻞ ِﻣﻦ ا ِﻹ ْﺳ َﻜﻨْ َﺪرﻳﱠ ِﺔ إِ َﱃ‬ ‫ِﻣ ْ َﴫ‪ ،‬وا ْﻟﺒَ ِﺴﻴ ُﻂ ُﻛ ﱡﻠﻪ ُﻣ َﺤ ﱠﺮ ٌث ) َﻣ ْﺰرو ٌع( ﻳ ُﻌ ﱡﻤ ُﻪ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ُﻞ ﺑ َﻔﻴْ ِﻀ ِﻪ‪ ،‬وا ْﻟ ُﻘ َﺮى ِﻓﻴﻪ — ﻳﻤﻴﻨًﺎ و ِﺷﻤﺎ ًﻻ‬ ‫— ﻻ ﺗُ ْﺤ َﴡ َﻛﺜْ َﺮ ًة‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (11‬ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ »ﻃﻨﻄﺎ«‬ ‫ﺛُﻢ أَ َﺟ ْﺰﻧَﺎ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ َﻞ ِﰲ َﻣ ْﺮ َﻛ ِﺐ ﺗَ ْﻌ ِﺪﻳَﺔ‪ .‬واﺗﱠ َﺼﻞ َﺳ ْيرُﻧﺎ إِ َﱃ َﻣ ْﻮ ِﺿﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮف ﺑ»ﺑ ْﺮ َﻣ َﺔ«‪ ،‬ﻓﻜﺎ َن َﻣ ِﺒﻴﺘُﻨﺎ‬ ‫ِﺑ َﻬﺎ‪ .‬وﻫﻲ َﻗ ْﺮﻳَ ٌﺔ ﻛﺒي َر ٌة ِﻓﻴﻬﺎ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻮ ُق و َﺟ ِﻤﻴ ُﻊ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺮا ِﻓ ِﻖ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ﺑَ َﻜ ْﺮﻧَﺎ ِﻣﻨْ َﻬﺎ ﻳَ ْﻮ َم اﻟﺜﱡﻼﺛﺎءِ‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ ﻳَ ْﻮ ُم ِﻋﻴ ِﺪ اﻟﻨﱠ ْﺤ ِﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺳﻨَﺔ ﺛﻤﺎ ٍن و َﺳﺒْ ِﻌي َن و َﺧ ْﻤ ِﺲ‬ ‫ﻣﺌﺔ‪َ ،‬ﻓﺸﺎ َﻫ ْﺪﻧَﺎ اﻟ ﱠﺼﻼ َة ِﺑ َﻤ ْﻮ ِﺿ ٍﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑ » َﻃﻨْ ِﺪﺗَﺎ« وﻫﻲ ِﻣ َﻦ ا ْﻟ ُﻘ َﺮى ا ْﻟ َﻔ ِﺴﻴﺤ ِﺔ اﻵ ِﻫ َﻠﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (12‬ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ »اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة«‬ ‫واﺗﱠﺼ َﻞ َﺳ ْيرُﻧﺎ إِ َﱃ َﻣ ْﻮ ِﺿ ٍﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑ» ُﺳﺒْﻚ«‪ ،‬وﻛﺎن َﻣ ِﺒﻴﺘُﻨﺎ ﺑﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وا ْﺟﺘَ ْﺰﻧﺎ ذﻟ َﻚ اﻟﻴَ ْﻮ َم َﻋ َﲆ َﻣﻮﺿ ٍﻊ َﺣ َﺴﻦ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑ» َﻣﻠﻴ ٍﺞ«‪ ،‬واﻟ ِﻌﻤﺎ َر ُة ُﻣﺘﺼﻠ ٌﺔ‪ ،‬وا ْﻟ ُﻘ َﺮى‬ ‫ُﻣﻨْﺘَ ِﻈ َﻤ ٌﺔ ِﰲ ﻃ ِﺮﻳ ِﻘﻨَﺎ ُﻛ ﱢﻠﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ﺑَ َﻜ ْﺮﻧَﺎ ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻳ ْﻮ َم اﻷَرﺑﻌﺎءِ ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺪ ُه‪َ .‬ﻓ ِﻤﻦ أَ ْﺣ َﺴ ِﻦ ﺑَ َﻠ ٍﺪ َﻣ َﺮ ْرﻧَﺎ ﻋ َﻠﻴْﻪ‪ ،‬ﻣﻮﺿ ٌﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف‬ ‫ﺑ» َﻗ ْﻠﻴﻮ َب«‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﲆ ِﺳﺘﱠ ِﺔ أَ ْﻣﻴﺎ ٍل ﻣﻦ »ا ْﻟ َﻘﺎ ِﻫﺮة«‪ ،‬ﻓﻴ ِﻪ اﻷَ ْﺳﻮا ُق اﻟﺠ ِﻤﻴ َﻠ ُﺔ‪ ،‬و َﻣ ْﺴ ِﺠ ٌﺪ َﻛ ِﺒير‪.‬‬ ‫ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ إِ َﱃ »اﻟ َﻘﺎﻫﺮ ِة« — وﻫﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﻨ ُﺔ اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠ َﻄﺎ ِن ا ْﻟ َﺤﻔﻴﻠ ُﺔ ال ُمﺘﱠ ِﺴ َﻌ ُﺔ — ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ِﻣﻨْﻬﺎ إِ َﱃ‬ ‫ِﻣ ْ َﴫ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺤ ُﺮو َﺳ ِﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫‪19‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫ﺛُ ﱠﻢ اﺟﺘَ ْﺰﻧﺎ اﻟ ِﻘ ْﺴ َﻢ اﻟﺜﺎ ِﻧ َﻲ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ ﰲ َﻣ ْﺮ َﻛ ِﺐ ﺗَ ْﻌ ِﺪﻳﺔ أَﻳ ًﻀﺎ‪ ،‬وﻛﺎ َن ﻧُ ُﺰوﻟُﻨﺎ ﰲ ِﻣ َﴫ‬ ‫ِﺑ ُﻔﻨْ ُﺪ ِق »أَﺑﻲ اﻟﺜﱠﻨَﺎ ِء«‪ِ ،‬ﰲ » ُز َﻗﺎ ِق اﻟ َﻘﻨَﺎ ِدﻳ ِﻞ« ِﺑﻤ ْﻘ َﺮﺑَ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺟﺎﻣ ِﻊ » َﻋ ْﻤ ِﺮو ﺑْ ِﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻌﺎص«‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (13‬المﺴﺠﺪ اﻟﺤﺴﻴﻨﻲ‬ ‫وﻣﻦ اﻵﺛﺎ ِر ا ﱠﻟ ِﺘﻲ َﺷ ِﻬﺪﻧَﺎﻫﺎ ﺑﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ »ا ْﻟ َﻘﺎ ِﻫ َﺮ ِة«‪ ،‬ذﻟﻚ ال َم ْﺸ َﻬ ُﺪ اﻟﻌﻈﻴ ُﻢ‪ ،‬ﺣﻴ ُﺚ رأْ ُس »اﻟﺤﺴين‬ ‫ﺑﻦ َﻋ ِﲇﱢ ﺑْ ِﻦ أَﺑﻲ َﻃﺎﻟﺐ« — َر ِ َﴈ ﷲُ َﻋﻨْ ُﻬﻤﺎ — و ُﻫ َﻮ ﰲ ﺗﺎﺑﻮ ِت ِﻓ ﱠﻀ ٍﺔ َﻣ ْﺪ ُﻓﻮ ٍن ﺗَ ْﺤ َﺖ اﻷَ ْر ِض‪،‬‬ ‫َﻗ ْﺪ ﺑُﻨِ َﻲ ﻋ َﻠﻴْ ِﻪ ﺑُﻨْﻴﺎ ٌن َرا ِﺋ ٌﻊ‪ ،‬ﻳَ ْﻘ ُﴫ اﻟ َﻮ ْﺻ ُﻒ ﻋﻨْ ُﻪ‪ ،‬وﻻ ﻳُ ِﺤﻴ ُﻂ ا ِﻹدرا ُك ﺑﻪ‪ُ ،‬ﻣ َﺠ ﱠﻠ ٌﻞ ﺑﺄَﻧْﻮا ِع اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳﺒﺎ ِج‪،‬‬ ‫َﻣﺤﻔﻮ ٌف ِﺑﺄَ ْﻣﺜَﺎ ِل ا ْﻟ َﻌ َﻤ ِﺪ اﻟ ِﻜﺒﺎ ِر‪َ :‬ﺷ ْﻤ ًﻌﺎ أَﺑْﻴَ َﺾ‪ ،‬وﻣﻨْ ُﻪ ﻣﺎ ُدو َن ذﻟﻚ‪َ ،‬ﻗ ْﺪ ُو ِﺿ َﻊ أَ ْﻛﺜَ ُﺮﻫﺎ ﰲ أَﺗْ َﻮار‬ ‫— أَ ْﻋ ِﻨﻲ أَوا ِﻧ َﻲ َﺻ ِﻐي َر ًة — وﻛ ﱡﻞ ﺗَ ْﻮر ﻣﻦ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻷَﺗﻮا ِر ﻣ َﻦ اﻟﻔﻀﺔ اﻟﺨﺎ ِﻟ َﺼ ِﺔ وا ْﻟ ُﻤﺬ ﱠﻫﺒَ ِﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫و ُﻋ ﱢﻠﻘﺖ ﻋﻠﻴﻪ َﻗﻨﺎ ِدﻳ ُﻞ ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﻓ ﱠﻀ ٍﺔ‪َ ،‬و ُﺣ ﱠﻒ أَ ْﻋﻼَ ُه ﻛ ﱡﻠ ُﻪ ﺑﺄَ ْﻣﺜﺎ ِل اﻟﺘﱠ َﻔﺎ ِﻓﻴ ِﺢ‪ ،‬وﻛ ﱡﻞ ﺗُ ﱠﻔﺎ َﺣﺔ ِﻣ ْﻦ‬ ‫ِﺗ ْﻠﻚ اﻟﺘﱠﻔﺎ ِﻓﻴ ِﺢ َﻣ ْﺼﻨﻮ َﻋ ًﺔ ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱠﺬ َﻫ ِﺐ ا ْﻟ َﺨﺎ ِﻟﺺ‪ِ ،‬ﰲ َﻣ ْﺼﻨَ ٍﻊ را ِﺋ ِﻊ ا ْﻟ َﻤﻨْ َﻈ ِﺮ‪ ،‬ﺷﺒﻴ ِﻪ اﻟ ﱠﺮو َﺿﺔ‪ ،‬ﻳُ َﻘﻴﱢ ُﺪ‬ ‫اﻷَﺑْ َﺼﺎ َر َﻓﻼ ﺗَ ْﺴﺘَﻄﻴ ُﻊ أَ ْن ﺗَﺘﺤ ﱠﻮ َل ﻋﻨ ُﻪ ِﻟ ُﺤ ْﺴ ِﻨﻪ‪َ .‬و ِﻓﻴ ِﻪ ِﻣ ْﻦ أَﻧْﻮا ِع اﻟ ﱡﺮ َﺧﺎ ِم ال ُم َﺠ ﱠﺰ ِع )ال ُم َﻠ ﱠﻮن(‪،‬‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﻐ ِﺮﻳ ِﺐ اﻟ ﱠﺼﻨْ َﻌ ِﺔ‪ ،‬ا ْﻟﺒَ ِﺪﻳﻊ اﻟ ﱠ ْﱰﺻﻴ ِﻊ ﻣﺎ ﻻ ﻳﺘَﺨﻴﱠﻠُﻪ ال ُمﺘَ َﺨﻴﱢﻠُﻮ َن‪.‬‬ ‫وا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺪ َﺧ ُﻞ إِ َﱃ ﻫ ِﺬ ِه اﻟ ﱠﺮ ْو َﺿ ِﺔ ﻋﲆ ﻣﺴﺠ ٍﺪ َﻋ َﲆ ِﻣﺜَﺎ ِﻟﻬﺎ — ﰲ اﻟﺘﺄَﻧﱡﻖ واﻟﻐﺮاﺑَ ِﺔ — ِﺣﻴ َﻄﺎﻧُﻪ‬ ‫ﻛ ﱡﻠﻬﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﻣﺜْ ِﻞ ذ ِﻟ َﻚ اﻟ ﱡﺮﺧﺎ ِم ال ُم َﺠ ﱠﺰ ِع ا ﱠﻟ ِﺬي وﺻ ْﻔﻨﺎ ُه‪.‬‬ ‫‪20‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻹ ْﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳَﺔ إﱃ اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ‫ورأَﻳْﻨﺎ اﻷَ ْﺳﺘَﺎ َر ا ْﻟﺒَﺪﻳ َﻌ َﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺼﻨْﻌ ِﺔ — ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱢﺪﺑﺎ ِج — ُﻣ َﻌ ﱠﻠ َﻘ ًﺔ ﺗ ُﺮو ُع اﻟﻨﺎ ِﻇ َﺮ إِﻟﻴﻬﺎ ﰲ ﻛ ﱢﻞ‬ ‫ﻣﻜﺎن‪.‬‬ ‫)‪َ (14‬ﻣﺸﺎ ِﻫ ُﺪ أَ ْﻫ ِﻞ اﻟﺒﻴﺖ‬ ‫و ِﰲ ﺗﻠ َﻚ اﻟ ﱠﻠﻴﻠ ِﺔ ِﺑﺘْﻨﺎ ِﰲ اﻟ َﺠﺒﱠﺎﻧَ ِﺔ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﻌ ُﺮو َﻓ ِﺔ ﺑﺎ ْﻟ َﻘﺮا َﻓ ِﺔ‪ ،‬و ِﻫﻲ أَﻳْ ًﻀﺎ إِ ْﺣ َﺪى َﻋ َﺠﺎ ِﺋ ِﺐ اﻟ ﱡﺪﻧْﻴَﺎ — ِﻟ َﻤﺎ‬ ‫ﺗَ ْﺤﺘَﻮﻳ ِﻪ ِﻣ ْﻦ َﻣﺸﺎ ِﻫ ِﺪ اﻷَﻧْ ِﺒﻴﺎءِ وأَ ْﻫ ِﻞ ا ْﻟﺒَﻴْ ِﺖ واﻟ ﱠﺼﺤﺎﺑَ ِﺔ واﻟﺘﱠﺎ ِﺑﻌين وا ْﻟ ُﻌ َﻠﻤﺎءِ واﻟ ﱡﺰ ﱠﻫﺎ ِد واﻷَ ْوﻟﻴﺎ ِء‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (15‬ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺸ َﻬ ُﺪ اﻟﺸﺎﻓﻌ ﱡﻲ‬ ‫وﻓﻴﻬﺎ َﻣ ْﺸ َﻬ ُﺪ اﻹ َﻣﺎ ِم اﻟ ﱠﺸﺎ ِﻓ ِﻌ ﱢﻲ‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ ﻣﻦ ال َمﺸﺎﻫﺪ اﻟﻌﻈﻴﻤﺔ‪ :‬اﺣﺘ َﻔﺎ ًﻻ واﺗﱢﺴﺎ ًﻋﺎ‪ ،‬وﻗﺪ ﺑَﻨَﻰ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠﻄﺎ ُن ﺑ ِﺈزاﺋﻪ َﻣ ْﺪ َر َﺳ ًﺔ َﻟ ْﻢ ﻳَ ْﻌ ُﻤ ْﺮ — ﺑﻬ ِﺬ ِه اﻟﺒﻼ ِد — ِﻣﺜﻠُﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻻ أَ ْو َﺳ ُﻊ ِﻣﺴﺎ َﺣ ًﺔ‪ ،‬وﻻ أَ ْﺣ َﻔ ُﻞ‬ ‫ﺑﻨﺎءً‪ ،‬ﻳُ َﺨﻴﱠ ُﻞ ِﻟ َﻤ ْﻦ ﻳﺘَﻄ ﱠﻮ ُف َﻋ َﻠﻴﻬﺎ أَﻧﱠﻬﺎ ﺑَ َﻠ ٌﺪ ُﻣ ْﺴﺘَ ِﻘ ﱞﻞ ﺑ َﺬا ِﺗﻪ‪ ،‬ﺑ ِﺈزاﺋﻬﺎ اﻟ َﺤ ﱠﻤﺎ ُم‪ ،‬إِ َﱃ َﻏ ْي ِر ذ ِﻟ َﻚ ﻣ ْﻦ‬ ‫َﻣﺮا ِﻓ ِﻘﻬﺎ‪ .‬واﻟ ِﺒﻨﺎءُ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﺣﺘﱠﻰ اﻟ ﱠﺴﺎ َﻋ ِﺔ‪ ،‬واﻟﻨﱠ َﻔ َﻘ ُﺔ ﻋ َﻠﻴْﻬﺎ ﻻ ﺗُ ْﺤ َﴡ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪َ (16‬ﻣﺄْ َوى اﻟ ُﻐ َﺮﺑﺎءِ‬ ‫وﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﺠﺐ أَ ﱠن ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟ َﻘ َﺮا َﻓ َﺔ ﻛ ﱠﻠﻬﺎ ﻣﺴﺎﺟ ُﺪ ﻣﺒﻨﻴﱠ ٌﺔ وﻣﺸﺎﻫ ُﺪ ﻣﻌﻤﻮر ٌة‪ ،‬ﻳﺄْ ِوي إ َﻟﻴْﻬﺎ اﻟﻐﺮﺑﺎ ُء‬ ‫واﻟﻌﻠﻤﺎ ُء واﻟﺼ َﻠﺤﺎ ُء واﻟﻔﻘﺮاءُ‪ ،‬وإِﻧﱠﻤﺎ ﻳُﻨْ َﻔ ُﻖ َﻋ َﲆ ُﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻣﻮ ِﺿ ٍﻊ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ ِﻗﺒَﻞ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎن ﰲ ُﻛ ﱢﻞ‬ ‫ﺷﻬﺮ‪ .‬وال َمﺪا ِر ُس ا ﱠﻟ ِﺘﻲ ﺑ» ِﻣ ْ َﴫ« و»ا ْﻟ َﻘﺎ ِﻫﺮ ِة« ﻛﺬ ِﻟ َﻚ‪َ .‬و ُﺣ ﱢﻘ َﻖ ِﻋﻨْ َﺪﻧَﺎ أَ ﱠن ا ِﻹﻧْ َﻔﺎ َق َﻋ َﲆ ذﻟﻚ ﻛ ﱢﻠﻪ‬ ‫ﻧﻴﱠ َﻒ ﻋﲆ أَ ْﻟ َﻔ ْﻲ دﻳﻨﺎ ٍر َﻣ ْ ِﴫ ﱟي ﰲ اﻟ ﱠﺸﻬﺮ‪.‬‬ ‫وذُ ِﻛﺮ َﻟﻨﺎ أَ ﱠن ﻟﺠﺎﻣ ِﻊ » َﻋ ْﻤ ِﺮ ﺑْ ِﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻌﺎ ِص« ﺑ» ِﻣ ْ َﴫ« — ِﻣ َﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻔﺎ ِﺋ َﺪ ِة — ﻧَ ْﺤ َﻮ اﻟﺜﱠﻼﺛي َن ِدﻳﻨَﺎ ًرا‬ ‫ﻣﴫﻳٍّﺎ ِﰲ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻳَ ْﻮ ٍم‪ :‬ﺗَﺘَ َﻔ ﱠﺮق ﰲ َﻣﺼﺎ ِﻟﺤﻪ و ُﻣﺮﺗﱠﺒﺎت َﻗ َﻮ َﻣ ِﺘﻪ و َﺳ َﺪﻧَ ِﺘ ِﻪ ) ُﺧ ﱠﺪا ِﻣ ِﻪ( وأَ ِﺋ ﱠﻤ ِﺘ ِﻪ‪ ،‬وا ْﻟ ُﻘ ﱠﺮاءِ‬ ‫ﻓﻴ ِﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫‪21‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪ (17‬ﺧﻄﻴﺐ المﺴﺠﺪ‬ ‫وﰲ ﺑ ْﻌ ِﺾ ا ْﻟ َﺠﻮا ِﻣ ِﻊ َرأَﻳْﻨﺎ ا ْﻟ َﺨ ِﻄﻴ َﺐ ﻳَ ْﺠ َﻤ ُﻊ — ﰲ ُﺧ ْﻄﺒَ ِﺘ ِﻪ — اﻟ ﱡﺪﻋﺎءَ ﻟﻠ ﱠﺼﺤﺎﺑ ِﺔ وﻟﻠﺘﱠﺎﺑﻌين و َﻣ ْﻦ‬ ‫ِﺳﻮا ُﻫﻢ‪ ،‬وﻷُ ﱠﻣﻬﺎت ال ُمﺆﻣﻨي َن َز ْوﺟﺎ ِت اﻟﻨﱠ ِﺒ ﱢﻲ — ﺻ ﱠﲆ ﷲ ﻋﻠﻴ ِﻪ وﺳ ﱠﻠﻢ — وﻟ َﻌ ﱠﻤﻴْ ِﻪ اﻟ َﻜ ِﺮﻳ َﻤ ْي ِن‪:‬‬ ‫» َﺣ ْﻤ َﺰ َة« و»اﻟ َﻌﺒﱠﺎ ِس« َر ِ َﴈ ﷲ ﻋﻨﻬﻤﺎ‪ ،‬وﻳُ َﻠ ﱢﻄ ُﻒ ا ْﻟ َﻮ ْﻋ َﻆ‪ ،‬وﻳُ َﺮ ﱢﻗ ُﻖ اﻟﺘﱠ ْﺬ ِﻛيرَ‪َ ،‬ﺣﺘﱠﻰ ﺗَ ْﺨ َﺸ َﻊ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ ُﻘﻠُﻮ ُب ا ْﻟ َﻘﺎ ِﺳﻴَ ُﺔ‪ ،‬وﺗَﺘَ َﻔ ﱠﺠ َﺮ ا ْﻟ ُﻌﻴﻮن ا ْﻟ َﺠﺎ ِﻣ َﺪ ُة‪.‬‬ ‫وﻳﺄْ ِﺗﻲ ﻟ ْﻠ ُﺨ ْﻄﺒَ ِﺔ ﻻ ِﺑ ًﺴﺎ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻮا َد َﻋ َﲆ َر ْﺳ ِﻢ اﻟ ﱠﺪ ْو َﻟ ِﺔ ا ْﻟ َﻌﺒﱠﺎ ِﺳﻴﱠ ِﺔ‪ ،‬و ِﺻ َﻔ ُﺔ ِﻟﺒَﺎ ِﺳ ِﻪ ﺑُ ْﺮ َد ٌة َﺳ ْﻮ َدا ُء ﻋ َﻠﻴْﻬﺎ‬ ‫َﻃﻴْ َﻠﺴﺎ ٌن أَ ْﺳ َﻮ ُد — و ُﻫﻮ ا ﱠﻟﺬي ﻳُ َﺴ ﱠﻤﻰ ِﺑﺎ ْﻟﻤ ْﻐ ِﺮ ِب‪ :‬ا ِﻹ ْﺣ َﺮا َم — و ِﻋﻤﺎ َﻣ ٌﺔ َﺳ ْﻮ َدا ُء‪ُ ،‬ﻣﺘَ َﻘ ﱢﻠ ًﺪا َﺳﻴْ ًﻔﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻋﻨْ َﺪ ُﺻﻌﻮ ِده ا ْﻟ ِﻤﻨْ َﱪَ ﻳَ ْ ِﴬ ُب ﺑﻨَ ْﻌ ِﻞ َﺳﻴْ ِﻔ ِﻪ ا ْﻟ ِﻤﻨْ َﱪَ — ِﰲ أَ ﱠو ِل ا ْرﺗﻘﺎ ِﺋﻪ — َ ْﴐﺑ ًﺔ ﻳُ ْﺴ ِﻤ ُﻊ ﺑﻬﺎ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﺤﺎ ِ ِﴐﻳ َﻦ‪َ ،‬ﻛﺄَﻧﱠﻬﺎ إِﻳﺬا ٌن ﺑﺎ ِﻹﻧْ َﺼﺎ ِت‪ ،‬وﰲ ﺗَ َﻮ ﱡﺳ ِﻄﻪ أُ ْﺧ َﺮى‪ ،‬و ِﰲ اﻧﺘﻬﺎءِ ُﺻﻌﻮ ِد ِه ﺛَﺎ ِﻟﺜَ ًﺔ‪ ،‬ﺛُ ﱠﻢ‬ ‫ﻳُ َﺴ ﱠﻠﻢ َﻋ َﲆ ا ْﻟ َﺤﺎ ِ ِﴐﻳ َﻦ ﻳَ ِﻤﻴﻨًﺎ َو ِﺷﻤﺎ ًﻻ‪َ ،‬وﻳَ ِﻘ ُﻒ ﺑَ ْي َن راﻳَﺘَ ْي ِن َﺳ ْﻮ َدا َوﻳْ ِﻦ ِﻓﻴ ِﻬﻤﺎ ﺗَ ْﺠ ِﺰﻳ ُﻊ ﺑَﻴﺎ ٍض َﻗ ْﺪ‬ ‫ُر ﱢﻛ َﺰﺗﺎ ِﰲ أَ ْﻋ َﲆ ا ْﻟ ِﻤﻨ َ ِﱪ‪.‬‬ ‫و ُدﻋﺎ ُؤه ﰲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺘﱠﺎرﻳﺦ ﻟ ِﻺﻣﺎ ِم ا ْﻟ َﻌﺒﱠﺎ ِ ﱢﳼ »أَﺑﻲ ا ْﻟ َﻌﺒﱠﺎ ِس أَ ْﺣ َﻤ َﺪ اﻟﻨﱠﺎ ِﴏ ﻟﺪﻳ ِﻦ ِﷲ«‪ ،‬ﺛ ﱠﻢ ل ُم ْﺤﻴﻲ‬ ‫َد ْو َﻟﺘ ِﻪ »أَ ِﺑﻲ ال ُم َﻈ ﱠﻔﺮ ﻳُﻮ ُﺳ َﻒ ﺑ ِﻦ أَﻳﱡﻮب ﺻﻼ ِح اﻟﺪﻳﻦ«‪ ،‬ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ﻷَﺧﻴ ِﻪ — َو ِﱄﱠ ﻋﻬ ِﺪ ِه — »أَﺑﻲ ﺑ ْﻜ ٍﺮ‬ ‫َﺳﻴْﻒ اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳﻦ«‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ِ (18‬ﺣ ْﺼ ُﻦ اﻟﻘﻠ َﻌ ِﺔ‬ ‫وﺷﺎ َﻫ ْﺪﻧﺎ — أَﻳ ًﻀﺎ — ﺑُﻨْﻴﺎ َن اﻟ َﻘﻠﻌ ِﺔ‪ ،‬و ُﻫ َﻮ ِﺣ ْﺼ ٌﻦ ﻳﺘﱠ ِﺼﻞ ﺑ»اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة« َﺣﺼي ُن ا ْﻟ َﻤﻨَ َﻌ ِﺔ‪ ،‬ﻳُ ِﺮﻳ ُﺪ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠﻄﺎ ُن أَن ﻳَﺘﱠ ِﺨﺬَ ُه َﻣ ْﻮ ِﺿ َﻊ ُﺳ ْﻜﻨﺎ ُه‪َ ،‬وﻳَ ُﻤ ﱠﺪ ُﺳﻮ َر ُه ﺣﺘﻰ ﻳَﻨْﺘَ ِﻈ َﻢ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ِﺪﻳﻨَﺘَ ْي ِن‪ِ :‬ﻣ ْ َﴫ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺤﺮوﺳ َﺔ‬ ‫وا ْﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫ َﺮ َة‪ .‬وال ُم َﺴ ﱠﺨ ُﺮو َن ﰲ ﻫﺬا ا ْﻟﺒُﻨْﻴﺎ ِن ُﻫ ُﻢ اﻷُﺳﺎ َرى ﻣﻦ اﻟ ﱡﺮو ِم‪ ،‬و َﻋ َﺪ ُدﻫﻢ ﻻ ﻳُ ْﺤ َﴡ َﻛﺜْ َﺮ ًة‪.‬‬ ‫َوﻻ َﺳﺒﻴ َﻞ أَ ْن ﻳَ ْﻤﺘَ ِﻬ َﻦ ذﻟ َﻚ ا ْﻟﺒُﻨْﻴﺎ َن أَﺣ ٌﺪ ِﺳﻮا ُﻫ ْﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻫ ُﺆﻻ ِء اﻷَ ْ َﴎى ُﻫﻢ ا ْﻟ ُﻤﺘَﻮ ﱠﻟ ْﻮن ﻟﺠﻤﻴﻊ اﻣ ِﺘﻬﺎ ِﻧ ِﻪ و َﻣﺌُﻮﻧﺘﻪ اﻟﻌﻈﻴﻤ ِﺔ‪َ ،‬ﻛﻨَ ْ ِﴩ اﻟ ﱡﺮﺧﺎ ِم‪ ،‬وﻧ ْﺤ ِﺖ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱡﺼﺨﻮ ِر اﻟ ِﻌﻈﺎ ِم‪ ،‬و َﺣ ْﻔ ِﺮ ا ْﻟ َﺨﻨْ َﺪ ِق ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ْﺤ ِﺪ ِق ﺑ ُﺴﻮ ِر ذﻟﻚ ا ْﻟ ِﺤ ْﺼ ِﻦ‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ َﺧﻨْ َﺪ ٌق ﻳُﻨْ َﻘ ُﺮ ﺑﺎل ْم َﻌﺎ ِو ِل‬ ‫ﻧَ ْﻘ ًﺮا ِﰲ اﻟ ﱡﺼ ُﺨﻮر‪ ،‬وﻻ ﻳ َﺰا ُل َﻋ َﺠﺒًﺎ ِﻣ َﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻌﺠﺎ ِﺋ ِﺐ ا ْﻟﺒَﺎ ِﻗﻴَ ِﺔ اﻵﺛﺎ ِر‪.‬‬ ‫‪22‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻹ ْﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳَﺔ إﱃ اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ‫و ِﻟﻠ ﱡﺴ ْﻠ َﻄﺎ ِن أَﻳْ ًﻀﺎ — ِﺑ َﻤﻮا ِﺿ َﻊ أُ َﺧ َﺮ — ﺑُﻨْﻴَﺎ ٌن‪ .‬وﻫﺆﻻء اﻷَ ْ َﴎى ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱡﺮو ِم — ا ﱠﻟ ِﺬﻳ َﻦ‬ ‫أَ ْﺳ َﻠ ْﻔﻨَﺎ ِذ ْﻛ َﺮ ُﻫ ْﻢ — ﻳَ ْﺨ ُﺪﻣﻮ َن ﻓﻴﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (19‬المﺎ َر ْﺳﺘَﺎن‬ ‫و ِﻣ ﱠﻤﺎ ﺷﺎﻫﺪﻧﺎ ُه أَﻳْ ًﻀﺎ — ﻣﻦ ﻣﻔﺎﺧ ِﺮ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺴﻠﻄﺎ ِن — المﺎ َرﺳﺘﺎ ُن ا ﱠﻟ ِﺬي ﺑﻤﺪﻳﻨ ِﺔ اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫ َﺮ ِة‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ‬ ‫َﻗ ْ ٌﴫ ﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ ُﻘﺼﻮ ِر اﻟ ﱠﺮا ِﺋ َﻌ ِﺔ ُﺣ ْﺴﻨًﺎ واﺗﱢﺴﺎ ًﻋﺎ‪ ،‬أَﺑْ َﺮ َز ُه ِﻟﻬﺬه اﻟ َﻔﻀﻴﻠ ِﺔ ﺗَﺄَ ﱡﺟ ًﺮا وا ْﺣ ِﺘ َﺴﺎﺑًﺎ‪ ،‬وﻋ ﱠي َن‬ ‫ﻗﻴﱢ ًﻤﺎ — ِﻣ ْﻦ أَ ْﻫ ِﻞ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﻌ ِﺮ َﻓ ِﺔ — َو َﺿ َﻊ َﻟ َﺪﻳْ ِﻪ ﺧﺰا ِﺋ َﻦ ا ْﻟﻌ َﻘﺎ ِﻗير‪ ،‬وﻣ ﱠﻜﻨَ ُﻪ ِﻣ ِﻦ ا ْﺳ ِﺘ ْﻌﻤﺎ ِل اﻷَ ْد ِوﻳ ِﺔ‬ ‫واﻷَ ْ ِﴍﺑَﺔ وإِﻗﺎ َﻣ ِﺘﻬﺎ — َﻋ َﲆ ا ْﺧ ِﺘﻼ ِف أَﻧْﻮا ِﻋﻬﺎ — َو ُو ِﺿ َﻌ ْﺖ ِﰲ َﻣﻘﺎ ِﺻي ِر ذﻟﻚ ا ْﻟ َﻘ ْ ِﴫ أَ ِ ﱠﴎ ٌة —‬ ‫ﻳﺘﱠ ِﺨﺬُﻫﺎ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺮ َﴇ ﻣﻀﺎﺟ َﻊ — ﻛﺎ ِﻣﻠ ُﺔ ا ْﻟ ُﻜ َﺴﺎ‪َ ،‬وﺑَ ْي َن ﻳَ َﺪ ْى ذﻟ َﻚ ا ْﻟ َﻘﻴﱢ ِﻢ َﺧ َﺪ َﻣ ٌﺔ ﻳﺘ َﻜ ﱠﻔﻠُﻮن ِﺑﺘَ َﻔ ﱡﻘ ِﺪ‬ ‫أَ ْﺣﻮا ِل ال َم ْﺮ َﴇ ﺑُ ْﻜﺮ ًة و َﻋ ِﺸﻴﱠ ًﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﻴُﻘﺎ ِﺑﻠﻮن ﻣﻦ اﻷَﻏﺬﻳ ِﺔ واﻷَ ْﴍ ِﺑﺔ ﻣﺎ ﻳَﻠﻴ ُﻖ ﺑﻬﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫وﺑ ِﺈزاءِ ﻫﺬا المﻮ ِﺿ ِﻊ َﻣ ْﻮ ِﺿ ٌﻊ ُﻣﻘﺘ َﻄ ٌﻊ ِﻟﻠﻨﱢﺴﺎ ِء المﺮ َﴇ‪ ،‬وﻟﻬ ﱡﻦ ﻣﻦ ﻳَ ْﻜﻔﻠُﻬ ﱠﻦ‪.‬‬ ‫‪23‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪ (20‬ﻣﺤﺎﺑ ُﺲ ال َمﺠﺎﻧين‬ ‫وﻳﺘﱠ ِﺼ ُﻞ ﺑﻬﺬﻳﻦ المﻮ ِﺿ َﻌ ْي ِن ﻣﻮ ِﺿ ٌﻊ آﺧ ُﺮ ﻣﺘﱠ ِﺴ ُﻊ ا ْﻟ ِﻔﻨﺎ ِء‪ ،‬ﻓﻴ ِﻪ َﻣﻘﺎ ِﺻيرُ — ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ َﺷﺒﺎﺑﻴ ُﻚ اﻟﺤﺪﻳ ِﺪ‬ ‫— اﺗﱡ ِﺨ َﺬ ْت َﻣﺤﺎﺑ َﺲ ﻟﻠﻤﺠﺎﻧي ِن‪ .‬وﻟﻬﻢ أَﻳ ًﻀﺎ ﻣﻦ ﻳﺘ َﻔ ﱠﻘ ُﺪ — ﰲ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻳ ْﻮ ٍم — أَﺣﻮا َﻟﻬﻢ‪ ،‬وﻳُﻘﺎﺑﻠُﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺑﻤﺎ ﻳَ ْﺼﻠُﺢ ﻟﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫واﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ُن ﻳﺘَ َﻄ ﱠﻠﻊ ﻫﺬه اﻷَ ْﺣﻮا َل ﻛ ﱠﻠﻬﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﺒ ْﺤ ِﺚ واﻟ ﱡﺴ َﺆال‪ ،‬وﻳُ َﺆ ﱢﻛ ُﺪ — ﰲ ا ِﻻ ْﻋ ِﺘﻨﺎ ِء ﺑﻬﺎ وا ْﻟﻤﺜﺎﺑَ َﺮة‬ ‫ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ — ﻏﺎﻳ َﺔ اﻟﺘﺄْﻛﻴ ِﺪ‪.‬‬ ‫وﺑ»ﻣﴫ« ﻣﺎ َر ْﺳﺘﺎ ٌن ) ُﻣﺴﺘﺸ ًﻔﻰ( آ َﺧ ُﺮ‪ ،‬ﻋﲆ ِﻣﺜ ِﻞ ذﻟﻚ اﻟ ﱠﺮﺳ ِﻢ ﺑ َﻌﻴْﻨِ ِﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (21‬ﰲ َﻣ ْﺴ ِﺠ ِﺪ اﺑْ ِﻦ ُﻃﻮﻟﻮ َن‬ ‫وﺑ ْي َن ِﻣ َﴫ وا ْﻟ َﻘﺎ ِﻫ َﺮ ِة ال َمﺴ ِﺠ ُﺪ اﻟﻜﺒيرُ المﻨﺴﻮ ُب إِﱃ أَﺑﻲ ا ْﻟﻌﺒﱠﺎ ِس‪ :‬أَ ْﺣ َﻤ َﺪ ﺑﻦ ُﻃﻮﻟُﻮ َن‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﺠﻮا ِﻣﻊ اﻟﻌ ِﺘﻴ َﻘ ِﺔ اﻷَﻧﻴ َﻘ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺼﻨْﻌ ِﺔ‪ ،‬اﻟﻮا ِﺳﻌ ِﺔ اﻟﺒُﻨْﻴﺎن‪َ .‬ﺟﻌﻠ ُﻪ اﻟﺴﻠﻄﺎ ُن ﻣﺄْ ًوى ِﻟ ْﻠ ُﻐ َﺮﺑﺎ ِء — ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ال َمﻐﺎ ِرﺑ ِﺔ — ﻳﺴ ُﻜﻨﻮﻧَ ُﻪ وﻳَ ْﺠﺘَ ِﻤ ُﻌﻮن ﻓﻴﻪ‪ .‬وأَ ْﺟ َﺮى ﻋﻠﻴْ ِﻬ ُﻢ اﻷَ ْرزا َق ﰲ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﺷﻬﺮ‪.‬‬ ‫و ِﻣ ْﻦ أَﻋﺠ ِﺐ ﻣﺎ َﺣ ﱠﺪﺛَﻨﺎ ﺑ ِﻪ أَ َﺣ ُﺪ ال ُمﺘَ َﺨ ﱢﺼ ِﺼي َن ِﻣﻨْ ُﻬﻢ‪ :‬أَ ﱠن اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ َن ﺟﻌﻞ أَﺣﻜﺎ َﻣﻬﻢ إﻟﻴﻬﻢ‪ ،‬و َﻟﻢ‬ ‫ﻳَ ْﺠﻌﻞ ﻳ ًﺪا ﻷَﺣﺪ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﻢ‪ ،‬ﻓ َﻘ ﱠﺪﻣﻮا — ِﻣﻦ أَﻧْ ُﻔ ِﺴﻬﻢ — ﺣﺎ ِﻛ ًﻤﺎ ﻳَ ْﻤﺘَ ِﺜﻠُﻮ َن أَﻣ َﺮ ُه‪ ،‬وﻳﺘَﺤﺎﻛﻤﻮ َن ﰲ‬ ‫َﻃﻮا ِر ِئ أُﻣﻮ ِرﻫ ْﻢ ﻋﻨْﺪه‪ .‬وا ْﺳﺘَ ْﺼ َﺤﺒُﻮا اﻟ ﱠﺪ َﻋ َﺔ واﻟﻌﺎ ِﻓﻴ َﺔ‪ ،‬وﺗﻔ ﱠﺮ ُﻏﻮا ِﻟﻌﺒﺎد ِة رﺑﱢ ِﻬ ْﻢ‪ ،‬وو َﺟﺪوا —‬ ‫ِﻣﻦ َﻓ ْﻀﻞ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎن — أَ ْﻓﻀﻞ ُﻣﻌي ٍن ﻋﲆ ا ْﻟ َﺨ ْي ِر ا ﱠﻟ ِﺬي ُﻫ ْﻢ ِﺑ َﺴﺒﻴﻠﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (22‬اﻟﻔﻘﺮا ُء واﻟﻴﺘﺎﻣﻰ‬ ‫وﻣﺎ ِﻣﻨْﻬﺎ ﺟﺎ ِﻣ ٌﻊ ِﻣ َﻦ ا ْﻟﺠﻮا ِﻣﻊ‪ ،‬وﻻ ﻣﺴ ِﺠ ٌﺪ ِﻣ َﻦ ال َمﺴﺎ ِﺟ ِﺪ‪ ،‬وﻻ َر ْوﺿ ٌﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟ ﱠﺮوﺿﺎ ِت المﺒﻨِﻴﱠ ِﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﲆ ا ْﻟ ُﻘﺒﻮ ِر‪ ،‬وﻻ ﻣ ْﺤ َﺮ ٌس ﻣﻦ ال َمﺤﺎرس‪ ،‬وﻻ ﻣ ْﺪرﺳ ٌﺔ ﻣﻦ المﺪارس‪ ،‬إِﻻﱠ َو َﻓ ْﻀ ُﻞ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ِن ﻳ ُﻌ ﱡﻢ‬ ‫ﺟ ِﻤﻴﻊ َﻣ ْﻦ ﻳَﺄْوى إِﻟﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻳُ ْﻠ َﺰ ُم اﻟ ﱠﺴ َﻜ َﻦ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪ .‬ﺗَ ُﻬﻮن َﻋﲆ اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠﻄﺎ ِن — ﰲ ذ ِﻟﻚ — ﻧﻔﻘﺎ ُت ﺑُﻴﻮ ِت‬ ‫اﻷَﻣﻮا ِل‪ .‬وﻣ ْﻦ ﻣﺂ ِﺛﺮ ِه ا ْﻟ َﻜﺮﻳﻤ ِﺔ ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ْﻌ ِﺮﺑ ِﺔ ﻋ ِﻦ ا ْﻋ ِﺘﻨﺎ ِﺋﻪ ﺑﺄُﻣﻮ ِر ال ُم ْﺴ ِﻠﻤي َن ﻛﺎ ﱠﻓ ًﺔ‪ :‬أَﻧﱠ ُﻪ أَ َﻣ َﺮ ِﺑﻌﻤﺎ َر ِة‬ ‫ﻣﺤﺎ ِ َﴐ أَ ْﻟﺰﻣﻬﺎ ُﻣ َﻌ ﱢﻠﻤين ِﻟ ِﻜﺘَﺎب ِﷲ — ﻋ ﱠﺰ و َﺟ ّﻞ — ﻳُ َﻌ ﱢﻠ ُﻤﻮن أَﺑْﻨَﺎ َء اﻟ ُﻔﻘﺮاءِ واﻷَﻳْﺘﺎ ِم ﺧﺎ ﱠﺻ ًﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫وﺗَ ْﺠ ِﺮي ﻋﻠﻴْ ِﻬﻢ ا ْﻟ ِﺠﺮاﻳ ُﺔ اﻟﻜﺎ ِﻓﻴ ُﺔ ﻟﻬ ْﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫‪24‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻹ ْﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳَﺔ إﱃ اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ‫)‪ (23‬ﻗﻨﺎﻃ ُﺮ ﺻﻼح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳﻦ‬ ‫و ِﻣ ْﻦ َﻣﻔﺎﺧ ِﺮ ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ِن وآﺛﺎ ِر ِه — ا ْﻟﺒَﺎ ِﻗﻴ ِﺔ ا ْﻟ َﻤﻨْﻔﻌ ِﺔ ِﻟ ْﻠ ُﻤ ْﺴﻠﻤي َن — اﻟﻘﻨﺎﻃ ُﺮ اﻟﺘﻲ ﴍ َع ﰲ‬ ‫ِﺑﻨﺎ ِﺋﻬﺎ ِﺑ َﻐ ْﺮﺑ ﱢﻲ ِﻣ ْ َﴫ‪ .‬و َﻋ َﲆ ِﻣ ْﻘﺪا ِر َﺳﺒْﻌ ِﺔ أَ ْﻣﻴﺎل ِﻣﻨ َﻬﺎ رﺻﻴ ٌﻒ اﺑْﺘُ ِﺪئَ ﻣﻦ َﺣﻴﱢ ِﺰ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ ﺑ ِﺈزاءِ‬ ‫»ﻣﴫ«‪ ،‬ﻛﺄَﻧﱠ ُﻪ َﺟﺒَ ٌﻞ َﻣ ْﻤ ُﺪو ٌد َﻋ َﲆ اﻷَ ْر ِض‪ ،‬ﺗ ِﺴيرُ ﺑ ِﻪ ﻣﻘﺪا َر ِﺳﺘ ِﺔ أَ ْﻣﻴﺎل ﺣﺘﻰ ﻳﺘﱠ ِﺼ َﻞ ﺑﺘﻠﻚ‬ ‫اﻟ َﻘﻨْ َﻄﺮ ِة‪ ،‬وﻫ َﻲ ﻧَ ْﺤ ُﻮ اﻷَ ْرﺑﻌي َن َﻗ ْﻮ ًﺳﺎ — ِﻣ ْﻦ أَ ْﻛ َﱪ ﻣﺎ ﻳﻜﻮ ُن — ﻣ ْﻦ ِﻗ ِ ﱢﴘ ا ْﻟ َﻘﻨﺎﻃ ِﺮ‪ .‬واﻟ َﻘﻨْ َﻄﺮ ُة‬ ‫ُﻣﺘﱠ ِﺼ َﻠ ٌﺔ ﺑﺎﻟ ﱠﺼ ْﺤﺮاء اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗُ ْﻔ ِﴤ ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ إﱃ ا ِﻹﺳ َﻜﻨْ َﺪ ِرﻳﱠ ِﺔ‪ .‬ﻟﻪ ﰲ ذﻟﻚ ﺗَ ْﺪﺑيرٌ ﻋﺠﻴ ٌﺐ ﺣﺎ ِز ٌم — ِﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﺗﺪاﺑي ِر ال ُمﻠﻮك ا ْﻟ َﺤ َﺰﻣ ِﺔ — إِ ْﻋﺪا ًدا ﻟﺤﺎ ِدﺛَﺔ ﺗَ ْﻄ َﺮأُ ِﻣ ْﻦ ﻋ ُﺪ ﱟو ﻳَ ْﺪ َﻫ ُﻢ ِﺟﻬ َﺔ ﺛَ ْﻐ ِﺮ ا ِﻹﺳ َﻜﻨﺪ ِرﻳﱠ ِﺔ ﻋﻨ َﺪ‬ ‫َﻓﻴْ ِﺾ اﻟﻨﻴ ِﻞ واﻧْ ِﻐﻤﺎ ِر اﻷَر ِض ﺑﻪ‪ ،‬واﻣﺘﻨﺎ ِع ﺳﻠﻮ ِك اﻟﻌﺴﺎﻛ ِﺮ ﺑﺴﺒﺒﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫َﻓﺄَ َﻋ ﱠﺪ ذﻟﻚ َﻣ ْﺴ َﻠ ًﻜﺎ ﰲ ُﻛ ﱢﻞ وﻗﺖ — إِن ا ْﺣﺘﻴ َﺞ إِﱃ ذﻟﻚ — وﷲُ ﻳ ْﺪ َﻓ ُﻊ َﻋ ْﻦ ﺣ ْﻮ َز ِة المﺴﻠﻤي َن‬ ‫ﻛ ﱠﻞ ﻣﺘ َﻮ ﱠﻗ ٍﻊ وﻣﺤﺬُور‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (24‬أَﻫﺮا ُم ﻣﴫ‬ ‫و ِﺑ َﻤ ْﻘﺮﺑ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬ ِه اﻟﻘﻨﻄﺮ ِة ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ْﺤﺪﺛَ ِﺔ‪ ،‬ﺗَﺮى اﻷَﻫﺮا َم اﻟ َﻘﺪﻳﻤ َﺔ ال ُم ْﻌ ِﺠ َﺰ َة اﻟ ِﺒﻨﺎ ِء‪ ،‬اﻟﻐﺮﻳﺒ َﺔ المﻨﻈﺮ‪،‬‬ ‫ا ْﻟ ُﻤ َﺮﺑﱠﻌ َﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺸﻜ ِﻞ‪َ ،‬ﻛﺄَﻧﻬﺎ اﻟ ِﻘﺒﺎ ُب ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْ ُﴬوﺑ ُﺔ َﻗ ْﺪ ﻗﺎ َﻣ ْﺖ ﰲ َﺟ ﱢﻮ اﻟﺴﻤﺎ ِء‪ ،‬وﻻ ِﺳﻴَﻤﺎ ا ِﻻﺛْﻨﺎ ِن ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻓ ِﺈﻧﱠﻬﻤﺎ ﻳَ َﻐ ﱡﺺ ا ْﻟ َﺠ ﱡﻮ ﺑﻬﻤﺎ ُﺳ ُﻤ ٍّﻮا‪ .‬ﰲ َﺳﻌ ِﺔ اﻟﻮاﺣ ِﺪ ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ — ﻣ ْﻦ أَﺣﺪ أَ ْرﻛﺎ ِﻧ ِﻪ إِﱃ اﻟ ﱡﺮ ْﻛﻦ اﻟﺜﱠﺎﻧﻰ‬ ‫— ﺛَﻼ ُث ﻣﺌﺔ ُﺧ ْﻄ َﻮ ٍة و ِﺳ ﱞﺖ و ِﺳﺘﱡﻮن ُﺧ ْﻄ َﻮ ًة‪َ ،‬ﻗ ْﺪ أُﻗﻴﻤ ْﺖ ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱡﺼﺨﻮ ِر اﻟ ِﻌﻈﺎ ِم ال َمﻨْ ُﺤﻮﺗَ ِﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫و ُر ﱢﻛﺒَ ْﺖ ﺗَ ْﺮﻛﻴﺒًﺎ ﻫﺎﺋ ًﻼ‪ ،‬ﺑﺪﻳ َﻊ ا ِﻹ ْﻟﺼﺎ ِق دون أَن ﻳﺘَ َﺨ ﱠﻠ َﻠﻬﺎ ﻣﺎ ﻳُﻌي ُن ﻋﲆ إِ ْﻟﺼﺎ ِﻗﻬﺎ‪َ .‬وﻫﻲ ُﻣﺤ ﱠﺪدة‬ ‫اﻷَ ْﻃﺮا ِف ﰲ رأَى ا ْﻟﻌ ْي ِن‪ ،‬و ُرﺑﱠﻤﺎ أَ ْﻣ َﻜ َﻦ اﻟ ﱡﺼﻌﻮ ُد إِﻟﻴﻬﺎ‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﲆ َﺧﻄ ٍﺮ وﻣ َﺸ ﱠﻘ ٍﺔ‪َ .‬ﻓﺘَ ْﻠ َﻘﻰ أَﻃﺮا َﻓﻬﺎ‬ ‫ال ُمﺤ ﱠﺪد َة ﻛﺄَ ْو َﺳ ِﻊ ﻣﺎ ﻳﻜﻮ ُن ﻣﻦ اﻟ ﱢﺮﺣﺎب‪َ .‬ﻟﻮ رام أَﻫ ُﻞ اﻷَ ْر ِض ﻧَ ْﻘ َﺾ ِﺑﻨﺎ ِﺋﻬﺎ ﻷَ ْﻋﺠ َﺰ ُﻫ ْﻢ ذﻟﻚ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻷَﺣ ِﺪ اﻟ َﻜﺒيرﻳْ ِﻦ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﺑﺎ ٌب ﻳُ ْﺼﻌ ُﺪ إِﻟﻴﻪ َﻋ َﲆ ﻧَ ْﺤ ِﻮ اﻟﻘﺎ َﻣ ِﺔ ِﻣ َﻦ اﻷَر ِض — أَ ْو أَ ْزﻳَﺪ —‬ ‫وﻳُ ْﺪ َﺧ ُﻞ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ إِﱃ ﺑﻴْﺖ َﻛﺒي ٍر‪َ ،‬ﺳﻌﺘُﻪ ﻧَ ْﺤ ُﻮ ا ْﻟ َﺨ ْﻤ ِﺴي َن ِﺷ ًﱪا‪ ،‬وﻃﻮﻟُﻪ ﻧﺤ ُﻮ ذﻟﻚ‪.‬‬ ‫وﰲ َﺟ ْﻮ ِف ذﻟﻚ اﻟﺒﻴﺖ ُرﺧﺎﻣ ٌﺔ ﻃﻮﻳﻠ ٌﺔ ُﻣ َﺠ ﱠﻮ َﻓ ٌﺔ‪ ،‬ﻳُﻘﺎ ُل إِﻧﻬﺎ َﻗ ْﱪٌ‪.‬‬ ‫ودو َن اﻟ َﻜﺒي ِر َﻫﺮ ٌم َﺳﻌﺘُ ُﻪ ﻣﻦ اﻟ ﱡﺮ ْﻛ ِﻦ اﻟ َﻮاﺣ ِﺪ إِﱃ اﻟ ﱡﺮ ْﻛ ِﻦ اﻟﺜﱠﺎﻧﻰ ﻣﺌﺔ وأَ ْرﺑﻌﻮ َن ُﺧ ْﻄ َﻮ ًة‪.‬‬ ‫ودو َن ﻫﺬا اﻟﺼﻐي ِر ﺧﻤﺴ ٌﺔ ِﺻﻐﺎ ٌر; ﺛَﻼﺛ ٌﺔ ُﻣﺘﱠﺼ َﻠ ٌﺔ‪ ،‬واﻻﺛﻨﺎن — َﻋ َﲆ َﻣ ْﻘﺮﺑ ٍﺔ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ — ُﻣﺘﱠ ِﺼﻼ ِن‪.‬‬ ‫‪25‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪» (25‬أَﺑﻮ اﻟ َﻬ ْﻮل«‬ ‫و َﻋ َﲆ ﻣ ْﻘﺮﺑﺔ ﻣ ْﻦ ﻫﺬ ِه اﻷَ ْﻫﺮا ِم ُﺻﻮ َر ٌة َﻏ ِﺮﻳﺒ ٌﺔ ِﻣ ْﻦ َﺣ َﺠ ٍﺮ‪َ ،‬ﻗ ْﺪ ﻗﺎﻣ ْﺖ ﻋ َﲆ ِﺻ َﻔ ِﺔ آد ِﻣ ﱟﻲ ﻫﺎ ِﺋ ِﻞ‬ ‫ال َمﻨْ َﻈﺮ‪َ ،‬و ُﻫ َﻮ َﻗ ِﺮﻳ ٌﺐ ِﻣ َﻦ اﻷَ ْﻫ َﺮا ِم‪ ،‬و َﻇ ْﻬ ُﺮ ُه إِﱃ اﻟ ِﻘﺒْ َﻠ ِﺔ‪َ :‬ﻣ ْﻬ ِﺒ ِﻂ اﻟﻨّﻴ ِﻞ‪ .‬وﻫﻲ ﺗُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ِﺑﺄَ ِﺑﻲ اﻷَ ْﻫ َﻮا ِل‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (26‬ﻣﺪﻳﻨ ُﺔ »اﻟﺠﻴﺰة«‬ ‫وﻋ َﲆ َﺷ ﱢﻂ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ ِﻣ ّﻤﺎ ﻳَ ِﲇ َﻏ ْﺮ ِﺑ ﱠﻲ ِﻣ َﴫ — واﻟﻨﱢﻴ ُﻞ ُﻣ ْﻌ َ ِﱰ ٌض ﺑَﻴْﻨَ ُﻬﻤﺎ — َﻗ ْﺮﻳ ٌﺔ َﻛﺒي َر ٌة َﺣ ْﻔ َﻠ ُﺔ‬ ‫ا ْﻟﺒُﻨْﻴﺎ ِن‪ ،‬ﺗُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑ»ا ْﻟ ِﺠﻴ َﺰ ِة«‪ ،‬ﻟ َﻬﺎ — ﻛ ﱠﻞ ﻳَ ْﻮ ِم أَ َﺣ ٍﺪ — ﺳﻮ ٌق ﻣﻦ اﻷَ ْﺳ َﻮا ِق ا ْﻟ َﻌ ِﻈﻴ َﻤ ِﺔ ﻳُ ْﺠﺘَ َﻤ ُﻊ‬ ‫إِﻟﻴﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻳ ْﻌ َ ِﱰ ُض ﺑﻴْﻨَﻬﺎ وﺑ ْي َن » ِﻣ ْ َﴫ« َﺟ ِﺰﻳ َﺮ ٌة ِﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﺴﺎ ِﻛ ُﻦ ِﺣ َﺴﺎ ٌن‪ ،‬و َﻋﻼَ ِﱃﱡ ُﻣ ْ ِﴩ َﻓ ٌﺔ‪َ .‬وﻫﻲ‬ ‫َﻣ ْﺠ َﻤ ُﻊ اﻟ ﱠﻠ ْﻬ ِﻮ واﻟﻨﱡ ْﺰ َﻫ ِﺔ‪ ،‬وﺑﻴﻨﻬﺎ وﺑي َن » ِﻣ ْ َﴫ« َﺧﻠﻴ ٌﺞ ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟﻨﱢﻴﻞ‪ ،‬ﻳﺬﻫ ُﺐ ﺑ ُﻄﻮ ِﻟﻬﺎ ﻧَ ْﺤ َﻮ ا ْﻟ ِﻤﻴ ِﻞ‪،‬‬ ‫وﻟﻬﺎ َﻣ ْﺨﺮ ٌج َﻟ ُﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (27‬ا ْﻟﻤﻘﻴﺎس‬ ‫‪26‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻹ ْﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳَﺔ إﱃ اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ‫و ِﺑﻬ ِﺬ ِه ا ْﻟﺠﺰﻳ َﺮ ِة َﻣ ْﺴ ِﺠ ٌﺪ َﺟﺎ ِﻣ ٌﻊ ﻳُ ْﺨ َﻄ ُﺐ ﻓﻴ ِﻪ‪َ ،‬وﻳَﺘﱠ ِﺼ ُﻞ ﺑﻬﺬا ا ْﻟﺠﺎ ِﻣ ِﻊ ا ْﻟ ِﻤﻘﻴﺎ ُس اﻟﺬي ﻳُ ْﻌﺘَ َﱪُ ﻓﻴ ِﻪ‬ ‫َﻗ ْﺪ ُر ِزﻳَﺎ َد ِة اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ َﻓﻴْ ِﻀ ِﻪ ﻛ ﱠﻞ َﺳﻨَ ٍﺔ‪ .‬وا ْﺳ ِﺘ ْﺸﻌﺎ ُر اﺑﺘﺪا ِﺋ ِﻪ ﰲ َﺷ ْﻬﺮ ﻳُﻮﻧْﻴ َﺔ‪ ،‬و ُﻣ ْﻌ َﻈ ُﻢ اﻧْ ِﺘ َﻬﺎ ِﺋ ِﻪ‬ ‫أَ ُﻏ ْﺸ ُﺖ )أُ ْﻏ ْﺴ ُﻄﺲ(‪ ،‬وآ ِﺧ ُﺮ ُه أَ ﱠو ُل َﺷ ْﻬ ِﺮ أُ ْﻛﺘﻮﺑَﺮ‪ .‬وﻫﺬا الِمﻘﻴﺎ ُس َﻋ ُﻤﻮ ُد ُر َﺧﺎ ٍم أَﺑْﻴَ ُﺾ ُﻣﺜَ ﱠﻤ ٌﻦ‪،‬‬ ‫ﰲ َﻣ ْﻮ ِﺿ ٍﻊ ﻳَﻨ َﺤ ِ ُﴫ ﻓﻴ ِﻪ المﺎءُ — ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ اﻧْ ِﺴﻴﺎ ِﺑ ِﻪ إ َﻟﻴْ ِﻪ — و ُﻫﻮ ُﻣﻔ ﱠﺼ ٌﻞ ﻋﲆ اﺛْﻨَﺘَ ْي ِن وﻋﴩﻳ َﻦ‬ ‫ِذرا ًﻋﺎ ُﻣ َﻘ ﱠﺴﻤ ًﺔ ﻋﲆ أَرﺑﻌ ٍﺔ وﻋﴩﻳ َﻦ ِﻗ ْﺴ ًﻤﺎ‪ :‬ﺗُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑﺎﻷَﺻﺎﺑ ِﻊ‪ ،‬ﻓ ِﺈذا اﻧْﺘَ َﻬﺂ ا ْﻟ َﻔﻴْ ُﺾ ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ ُﻫ ْﻢ إِﱃ‬ ‫أَن ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ْﻮﰲ المﺎ ُء ِﺗ ْﺴﻊ ﻋ ْﴩ َة ِذرا ًﻋﺎ ﻓﻬﻲ ا ْﻟﻐﺎﻳ ُﺔ ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ ُﻫ ْﻢ ﰲ ِﻃﻴﺐ اﻟﻌﺎم‪ .‬وال ُمﺘﻮ ﱢﺳﻂ ﻋﻨﺪ ُﻫﻢ‬ ‫ﻣﺎ اﺳﺘَ ْﻮﰱ َﺳﺒْ َﻊ ﻋﴩ َة ِذرا ًﻋﺎ‪ ،‬و ُﻫ َﻮ اﻷَ ْﺣ َﺴ ُﻦ ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ ُﻫ ْﻢ ﻣﻦ ِﺗ ْﻠ َﻚ اﻟ ﱢﺰﻳﺎد ِة‪ .‬واﻟﺬي ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ِﺤ ﱡﻖ ﺑ ِﻪ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠﻄﺎ ُن َﺧﺮا َﺟ ُﻪ ِﻣ ْﻦ ﺑﻼ ِد ﻣ ْ َﴫ‪ِ :‬ﺳ ﱠﺖ َﻋ ْﴩ َة ذرا ًﻋﺎ ﻓﺼﺎ ِﻋ ًﺪا‪ ،‬وﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﻄﻰ ا ْﻟ ِﺒﺸﺎ َر َة اﻟﺬي‬ ‫ﻳُﺮا ِﻋﻰ اﻟ ﱢﺰﻳﺎ َد ُة ﰲ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻳَ ْﻮ ٍم‪ ،‬وﻳُ ْﻌ ِﻠ ُﻢ ﺑﻬﺎ ُﻣﻴﺎ َو َﻣ ًﺔ ﺣﺘﻰ ﺗَ ْﺴﺘَ ْﻮ ِﰲَ اﻟﻐﺎﻳ َﺔ‪ .‬وإِ ْن َﻗ ﱠﴫ َﻋ ْﻦ ِﺳ ﱠﺖ‬ ‫َﻋ ْﴩ َة ِذرا ًﻋﺎ ﻓﻼ ﺟﺒﺎﻳ َﺔ ِﻟﻠ ﱡﺴ ْﻠ َﻄﺎ ِن ﰲ ذﻟﻚ ا ْﻟﻌﺎ ِم وﻻ َﺧﺮا َج‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣﻦ ﻣ َﻔﺎ ِﺧ ِﺮ ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠ َﻄﺎ ِن أَﻧﱠﻪ ﺳ ﱠﻬ َﻞ اﻟ ﱠﺴ ِﺒﻴ َﻞ ﻟﻠ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج — ﺑ ْﻌﺪ أَن َﻛﺎ َدت ﺗﻨ َﻘ ِﻄ ُﻊ‪.‬‬ ‫و َﻛ َﻔﻰ ﷲُ المﺆﻣﻨي َن َﻋ َﲆ ﻳَ َﺪ ْى ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ِن اﻟﻌﺎ ِد ِل َﺣﺎ ِدﺛًﺎ َﻋﻈﻴ ًﻤﺎ‪ ،‬و َﺧ ْﻄﺒًﺎ أَ ِﻟﻴ ًﻤﺎ‪َ ،‬ﻓﺎ ْﺳﺘَﺤ ﱠﻖ‬ ‫ﺑﺬﻟﻚ اﻟ ﱡﺸ ْﻜ َﺮ ِﻣﻦ ﻛ ﱢﻞ َﻣﻦ ﻳَﻌﺘَ ِﻘ ُﺪ أَ ﱠن َﺣ ﱠﺞ اﻟﺒﻴ ِﺖ ا ْﻟ َﺤﺮا ِم‪ ،‬أَﺣ ُﺪ اﻟ َﻘﻮا ِﻋ ِﺪ ا ْﻟ َﺨ ْﻤ ِﺲ ِﻣﻦ ا ِﻹﺳﻼ ِم‪.‬‬ ‫َوا ْﺳﺘَ ْﻮ َﺟﺐ اﻟﺪﻋﺎ َء ﻟﻪ ﰲ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ُﺻﻘ ٍﻊ ِﻣﻦ اﻷَ ْﺻ َﻘﺎ ِع‪َ ،‬وﺑُ ْﻘ َﻌ ٍﺔ ِﻣﻦ اﻟ ِﺒ َﻘﺎ ِع‪ .‬وﷲُ ﻻ ﻳُ ِﻀﻴ ُﻊ أَ ْﺟ َﺮ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫أَﺣﺴ َﻦ َﻋﻤﻼ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (28‬ا ْﻟ ُﻤﻜﻮس واﻟﴬاﺋﺐ‬ ‫وﻛﺎن ﰲ اﻟ ِﺒﻼ ِد الِم ِﴫﻳ ِﺔ وﺳﻮاﻫﺎ ُﻣ ُﻜﻮ ٌس وﴐا ِﺋ ُﺐ ﻋ َﲆ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻣﺎ ﻳُﺒَﺎ ُع وﻳُ ْﺸ َﱰى — ﻣ ﱠﻤﺎ َد ﱠق‬ ‫أَو َﺟ ﱠﻞ — ﺣﺘﻰ َﻛﺎن ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﻜ ُﺲ ﻳُ َﺆ ﱠدى َﻋ َﲆ ُ ْﴍ ِب ﻣﺎءِ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ‪ ،‬ﻓ ْﻀ ًﻼ ﻋ ﱠﻤﺎ ِﺳﻮا ُه‪ .‬ﻓ َﻤﺤﺎ ﻫﺬا‬ ‫اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ُن ﻫﺬه اﻟ ِﺒ َﺪ َع اﻟ ﱠﻠ ِﻌﻴﻨَ َﺔ ﻛ ﱠﻠﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﺑَ َﺴ َﻂ ا ْﻟ َﻌ ْﺪل‪ ،‬وأَ ﱠﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱡﺴﺒُ َﻞ‪.‬‬ ‫َﻓﺎﻃ َﻤﺄَ ﱠن اﻟﻨﺎ ُس — ﰲ ﺑﻼ ِده — وزا َوﻟُﻮا أَﻋﻤﺎ َﻟﻬﻢ ﰲ َﺳﻮا ِد اﻟ ﱠﻠﻴﻞ‪ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ ﻳُﺰا ِوﻟﻮﻧَﻬﺎ ﰲ‬ ‫َﺿﻮ ِء اﻟﻨﱠﻬﺎر‪ ،‬و َﻟ ْﻢ ﻳ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺸ ِﻌ ُﺮوا ﻟﻈﻼ ِم اﻟ ﱠﻠﻴ ِﻞ َﻫﻴﺒ ًﺔ ﺗَﺜْ ِﻨﻴ ِﻬﻢ ﻋﻦ ذﻟﻚ‪ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ ﺷﺎﻫ ْﺪﻧﺎ أَ ْﺣﻮا َﻟﻬﻢ ﰲ‬ ‫» ِﻣ َﴫ« و»اﻹ ْﺳ َﻜﻨْ َﺪرﻳﱠ ِﺔ«‪.‬‬ ‫‪27‬‬



‫اﻟﻔﺼﻞ اﻟﺜﺎﻟﺚ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫﺮة إﱃ َﻋﻴﺬا ْب‬ ‫)‪َ (1‬ﻣﻮاﻃ ُﻦ اﻷَﻧ ِﺒﻴﺎ ِء‬ ‫وﰲ َﺻ ِﺒﻴﺤ ِﺔ اﻟﻴ ْﻮ ِم اﻟ ﱠﺴﺎ ِد ِس ِﻣﻦ َﺷﻬﺮ ال ُم َﺤ ﱠﺮ ِم‪َ ،‬ﻛﺎن اﻧ ِﻔﺼﺎﻟُﻨﺎ ﻋﻦ »اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫ َﺮ ِة«‪ ،‬و ُﺻﻌﻮ ُدﻧﺎ —‬ ‫ﰲ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ — ﻗﺎ ِﺻﺪﻳ َﻦ إِﱃ » ُﻗﻮص«‬ ‫وﻗﺪ رأَﻳْﻨﺎ ا ْﻟ ُﻘﺮى ُﻣﺘﱠﺼ َﻠ ًﺔ ﻋ َﲆ ﺷ ﱢﻂ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ‪ ،‬ﻓ ِﻤﻨْ َﻬﺎ َﻗ ْﺮﻳَ ٌﺔ ﰲ اﻟ ﱢﻀ ﱠﻔ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠ ْﴩ ِﻗﻴﱠ ِﺔ ِﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ‬ ‫ُﻣﺒﺎ َ َﴍ ًة‪ِ ،‬ﻟﻠ ﱠﺼﺎ ِﻋ ِﺪ ﻓﻴ ِﻪ‪ .‬وﻳُﺬ َﻛ ُﺮ أَ ﱠن ﻓﻴﻬﺎ َﻛﺎن َﻣﻮﻟ ُﺪ اﻟﻨﱠﺒ ﱢﻲ » ُﻣﻮﳻ اﻟﻜﻠﻴ ِﻢ« ﺻ ﱠﲆ ﷲ ﻋ َﻠﻴ ِﻪ‬ ‫و َﺳ ﱠﻠ َﻢ‪ ،‬وﻣﻨْﻬﺎ أَ ْﻟ َﻘﺘْ ُﻪ أُ ﱡﻣ ُﻪ ﰲ ا ْﻟﻴَ ﱢﻢ‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ُﻞ‪ .‬وﻋﺎﻳﻨﱠﺎ أَﻳ ًﻀﺎ ﺑ َﻐ ْﺮﺑ ﱢﻲ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ؛ ُﻣﻴﺎ ِﻣﻨًﺎ ﻟﻨﺎ — ﻳ ْﻮ َم‬ ‫إِﻗﻼ ِﻋﻨﺎ‪ ،‬وﰲ اﻟﻴَ ْﻮم اﻟﺬي وﻟِﻴَ ُﻪ — ال َمﺪﻳﻨَ َﺔ اﻟ َﻘﺪﻳﻤ َﺔ المﻨْ ُﺴﻮﺑَ َﺔ ﻟ»ﻳُﻮ َﺳﻒ اﻟ ﱢﺼ ﱢﺪﻳ ِﻖ«‪ ،‬و ِﺑﻬﺎ َﻣ ْﻮ ِﺿ ُﻊ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱢﺴ ْﺠ ِﻦ اﻟﺬي َﻛﺎن ﻓﻴ ِﻪ‪ .‬وﺗُﻨْ َﻘ ُﻞ أَ ْﺣﺠﺎ ُر ُه إِﱃ اﻟ َﻘﻠ َﻌ ِﺔ ال ُمﺒْﺘَﻨﺎ ِة اﻵ َن َﻋ َﲆ »اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫ َﺮ ِة«‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ ِﺣ ْﺼ ٌﻦ‬ ‫َﺣﺼي ُن ال َمﻨَ َﻌ ِﺔ‪ ،‬وﻛﺎ َن ﺑﻬﺬ ِه ال َم ِﺪﻳﻨَ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠﻄﻌﺎ ُم اﻟﺬي اﺧﺘَ َﺰﻧَ ُﻪ ﺑﻬﺎ »ﻳﻮﺳ ُﻒ« ﺻ ﱠﲆ ﷲ ﻋ َﻠﻴ ِﻪ وﺳ ﱠﻠ َﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ُ (2‬ﻣﻨْﻴ ُﺔ اﺑ ِﻦ اﻟ َﺨ ِﺼﻴﺐ‬ ‫وﻣﻨْﻬﺎ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﻮ ِﺿ ُﻊ ال َمﺬ ُﻛﻮ ُر ﺑ» ُﻣﻨْﻴ ِﺔ اﺑﻦ ا ْﻟﺨ ِﺼﻴ ِﺐ«‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ ﺑ َﻠ ٌﺪ ﻋﲆ َﺷ ﱢﻂ اﻟﻨﻴ ِﻞ — ُﻣﻴﺎ ِﻣﻨًﺎ ﻟﻠ ﱠﺼﺎ ِﻋﺪ‬ ‫ﻓﻴ ِﻪ — ﻛﺒيرٌ‪ِ ،‬ﻓﻴ ِﻪ اﻷَ ْﺳﻮا ُق وا ْﻟ َﺤ ﱠﻤﺎﻣﺎ ُت وﺳﺎ ِﺋ ُﺮ ﻣﺮا ِﻓﻖ ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ُﺪ ِن‪ .‬ا ْﺟﺘَ ْﺰﻧﺎ ﻋ َﻠﻴْ ِﻪ ﰲ ا ْﻟﻴَ ْﻮم اﻟﺜﱠﺎﻣﻦ‬ ‫ِﻹﻗﻼ ِﻋﻨﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ » ِﻣ َﴫ« — ﻷ ﱠن اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳ َﺢ َﺳ َﻜﻨَ ْﺖ ﻋﻨﱠﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓ َﱰﺑﱠ ْﺼﻨﺎ ﰲ اﻟ ﱠﻄﺮﻳ ِﻖ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻟﻮ َذ َﻫﺒْﻨﺎ إِﱃ َر ْﺳ ِﻢ ُﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻣﻮ ِﺿ ٍﻊ ﻳﻌﱰ ُﺿﻨﺎ ﰲ َﺷ ﱠﻄ ِﻲ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ — ﻳﻤﻴﻨًﺎ و ِﺷﻤﺎ ًﻻ — ﻟﻀﺎ َﻗ ِﺖ‬ ‫اﻟﻜﺘ ُﺐ ﻋﻨْ ُﻪ‪ .‬ﻟﻜ ْﻦ ﻧَ ْﻘ ِﺼ ُﺪ ﻣﻦ ذﻟﻚ إِ َﱃ اﻷَ ْﻛ ِﱪ اﻷَ ْﺷ َﻬﺮ‪.‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪ (3‬إِ َﱃ أُ ْﺳﻴﻮ َط‬ ‫وﻣ َﺮ ْرﻧﺎ ﺑﻤ ِﺪﻳﻨ ٍﺔ ﻗﺪﻳﻤﺔ ﻛﺎن ﻟﻬﺎ ُﺳﻮ ٌر ﻋﺘﻴ ٌﻖ‪ ،‬ﻫﺪ َﻣﻪ » َﺻﻼ ُح اﻟﺪﻳ ِﻦ« وﺟﻌ َﻞ — ﻋ َﲆ ُﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻣﺮ َﻛ ٍﺐ‬ ‫ُﻣﻨْ َﺤ ِﺪ ٍر ﰲ اﻟﻨﻴﻞ — َو ِﻇﻴﻔ ًﺔ ﻣﻦ َﺣ ْﻤﻞ َﺻ ْﺨ ِﺮه إﱃ اﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮ ِة‪ ،‬ﻓﻨُ ِﻘ َﻞ ﺑﺄَ ْ ِﴎ ِه إِ َﻟﻴْﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻤﻮا ِﺿ ِﻊ اﻟﺘﻲ ا ْﺟﺘَ ْﺰﻧﺎ ﻋ َﻠﻴْﻬﺎ ﰲ اﻟ ﱠﺼ ِﻌﻴﺪ‪ :‬ﻣﻮﺿ ٌﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑ» َﻣﻨْ َﻔﻠُﻮ َط« ﺑﻤﻘ َﺮﺑَ ٍﺔ ِﻣ َﻦ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱠﺸ ﱢﻂ ا ْﻟ َﻐ ْﺮﺑ ﱢﻲ‪ُ ،‬ﻣﻴﺎﻣﻨًﺎ ﻟﻠ ﱠﺼﺎ ِﻋﺪ ﰲ اﻟﻨﱢﻴﻞ — ﻓﻴ ِﻪ اﻷَ ْﺳﻮا ُق وﺳﺎ ِﺋ ُﺮ ﻣﺎ ﻳُﺤﺘﺎ ُج إِ َﻟﻴْ ِﻪ ﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺮا ِﻓ ِﻖ‪،‬‬ ‫ﰲ ﻧﻬﺎﻳ ٍﺔ ﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱢﻄﻴ ِﺐ‪ .‬و َﻗ ْﻤ ُﺢ ﻫﺬا ا ْﻟﺒَ َﻠ ِﺪ ﻳُ ْﺠ َﻠ ُﺐ إِ َﱃ » ِﻣ َﴫ«‪ِ ،‬ﻟﻄﻴﺒ ِﻪ ورزاﻧَ ِﺔ َﺣﺒﱠﺘِ ِﻪ ) ِﺛ َﻘ ِﻠﻬﺎ(‪ .‬و َﻗ ِﺪ‬ ‫ا ْﺷﺘَﻬﺮ ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ ُﻫ ْﻢ ﺑﺬ ِﻟ َﻚ‪ .‬ﻓﺎﻟﺘﱡ ﱠﺠﺎ ُر ﻳُ َﺼ ﱢﻌ ُﺪون ﰲ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺮا ِﻛ ِﺐ ﻻ ْﺳ ِﺘ ْﺠﻼ ِﺑ ِﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣﻨْﻬﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨ ُﺔ »أُ ْﺳﻴُﻮط«‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ ﻣﻦ ُﻣ ُﺪ ِن اﻟ ﱠﺼﻌﻴ ِﺪ اﻟ ﱠﺸﻬي َر ِة‪ ،‬ﺑَﻴْﻨَﻬﺎ وﺑ ْين اﻟ ﱠﺸ ﱢﻂ ا ْﻟ َﻐ ْﺮﺑ ﱢﻲ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ ﻣﻘﺪا ُر ﺛﻼﺛ ِﺔ أَﻣﻴﺎ ٍل‪.‬‬ ‫وﻫﻲ ﺟﻤﻴﻠ ُﺔ ا ْﻟ َﻤﻨْ َﻈ ِﺮ‪َ ،‬ﺣ ْﻮ َﻟﻬﺎ ﺑَﺴﺎ ِﺗي ُن اﻟﻨﱠ ْﺨ ِﻞ‪ ،‬و ُﺳﻮ ُرﻫﺎ ﻋﺘﻴﻖ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪َ (4‬ﻫﻴْ َﻜ ُﻞ إِ ْﺧ ِﻤﻴ َﻢ‬ ‫وﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ ﻳﻌﺮف ﺑ»أَﺑﻲ ِﺗﻴ ٍﺞ«‪ .‬وﻫﻮ ﺑ َﻠ ٌﺪ ﻓﻴ ِﻪ اﻷَ ْﺳﻮا ُق وﺳﺎﺋ ُﺮ ﻣﺮاﻓ ِﻖ ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ُﺪ ِن‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ ﰲ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱠﺸ ﱢﻂ اﻟﻐﺮﺑ ﱢﻲ ﻣ َﻦ اﻟﻨﱢﻴﻞ‪ .‬ورأَﻳﻨﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨ َﺔ »إِ ْﺧ ِﻤﻴ َﻢ« وﻫﻲ أَﻳ ًﻀﺎ ﻣﻦ ُﻣﺪ ِن اﻟ ﱠﺼﻌﻴ ِﺪ اﻟﺸﻬير ِة‬ ‫ا ْﻟﻤﺬﻛﻮر ِة‪ ،‬ﺑ ْﴩ ِﻗ ﱢﻲ اﻟﻨﻴ ِﻞ‪ ،‬وﻋﲆ َﺷ ﱢﻄﻪ‪ .‬وﻫﺬ ِه ا ْﻟ َﻤﺪﻳﻨ ُﺔ ﻗﺪﻳﻤ ُﺔ ا ِﻹﻧﺸﺎءِ‪ ،‬ﻋﺘﻴﻘ ُﺔ اﻟ َﻮ ْﺿ ِﻊ‪ ،‬وﺑﻬﺎ‬ ‫آﺛﺎ ٌر وﻣﺼﺎﻧ ُﻊ ﻣﻦ ﺑُﻨْﻴﺎ ِن ا ْﻟ ُﻘ َﺪﻣﺎءِ‪ ،‬وﻛﻨﺎ ِﺋ ُﺲ ﻳَ ْﻌ ُﻤ ُﺮﻫﺎ — إِﱃ اﻵ َن — ﺑﻌ ُﺾ ﻧﺼﺎ َرى اﻟ ِﻘﺒْ ِﻂ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣ ْﻦ أَ ْﻋ َﺠ ِﺐ اﻟﻬﻴﺎﻛﻞ — ال ُمﺘ َﺤ ﱠﺪ ِث ﺑﻐﺮاﺋﺒﻬﺎ ﰲ اﻟﺪﻧﻴﺎ — َﻫﻴْ َﻜ ٌﻞ ﻋﻈﻴ ٌﻢ ﰲ ﴍ ِﻗ ﱢﻲ ﺗﻠﻚ ال َمﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫وﺗﺤ َﺖ ُﺳﻮرﻫﺎ‪ ،‬ﻃﻮﻟُﻪ ِﻣﺎﺋَﺘﺎ ِذرا ٍع وﻋﴩو َن ذرا ًﻋﺎ‪ ،‬و َﺳ َﻌﺘُ ُﻪ ﻣﺌﺔ و ِﺳﺘُﻮ َن ِذرا ًﻋﺎ‪ .‬وﻫﻮ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف‬ ‫ﻋﻨْ َﺪ أَ ْﻫ ِﻞ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺠﻬ ِﺔ ِﺑﺎ ْﺳ ِﻢ »ا ْﻟ َ ْﱪﺑَﻰ«‪ ،‬وﻫﺬا اﻻ ْﺳ ُﻢ ﻳُﻄﻠﻘﻮﻧﻪ ﻋﲆ اﻵﺛﺎ ِر اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻤﺎﺛﻠُﻪ‪،‬‬ ‫وﻫﺬا اﻟﻬﻴﻜ ُﻞ اﻟﻌﻈﻴ ُﻢ َﻗﺎم ﻋﲆ أَ ْرﺑﻌي َن َﺳﺎ ِرﻳ ًﺔ‪ ،‬ﺣﺎ َﺷﺎ ِﺣﻴ َﻄﺎﻧَ ُﻪ‪َ .‬د ْو ُر ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﺳﺎرﻳﺔ )ﻋ ُﻤﻮ ٍد(‬ ‫ﻣﻨﻬﺎ َﺧ ْﻤ ُﺴﻮن ِﺷﱪًا‪ ،‬وﺑي َن ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﺳﺎرﻳ ٍﺔ وﺳﺎرﻳ ٍﺔ ﺛﻼﺛﻮن ِﺷ ْ ًﱪا‪.‬‬ ‫‪30‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫﺮة إﱃ َﻋﻴﺬا ْب‬ ‫و ُرءو ُﺳﻬﺎ ﰲ ِﻧﻬﺎﻳ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟ ِﻌ َﻈﻢ وا ِﻹﺗ َﻘﺎ ِن‪ ،‬ﻗﺪ ﻧُ ِﺤﺘَ ْﺖ ﻧﺤﺘًﺎ ﻏﺮﻳﺒًﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﺠﺎ َء ْت ﺑﺪﻳﻌ َﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺸﻜ ِﻞ‪،‬‬ ‫ُﻣ َﺮ ﱠﻛﻨَ ًﺔ ) َﻣﺘﻴﻨَ َﺔ اﻟ ِﺒﻨﺎءِ(‪ ،‬ﻛﺄَ ﱠن اﻟﺨ ﱠﺮاﻃي َن ﺗَﻨﺎوﻟُﻮﻫﺎ‪ .‬وﻫﻲ ﻛ ﱡﻠﻬﺎ ﻣﺰ َﺧ َﺮ َﻓ ٌﺔ ﺑﺄَﻧﻮا ِع اﻷَ ْﺻ ِﺒ َﻐ ِﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻼﱠ َز َو ْر ِدﻳﱠ ِﺔ وﺳﻮاﻫﺎ‪ .‬واﻟ ﱠﺴﻮاري ﻛ ﱡﻠﻬﺎ ﻣﻨﻘﻮﺷ ٌﺔ‪ِ ،‬ﻣ ْﻦ أَ ْﺳﻔﻠﻬﺎ إِﱃ أَﻋﻼﻫﺎ‪ .‬وﻗ ِﺪ اﻧﺘﺼﺐ ﻋ َﲆ‬ ‫رأْ ِس ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﺳﺎرﻳ ٍﺔ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ إِﱃ رأْس ﺻﺎﺣﺒﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻠﻴﻬﺎ َﻟ ْﻮ ٌح ﻋﻈﻴ ٌﻢ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺤﺠ ِﺮ ال َمﻨﺤﻮت‪.‬‬ ‫و َﺳ ْﻘ ُﻒ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻬﻴﻜﻞ ُﻛ ﱡﻠ ُﻪ ِﻣ ْﻦ أَ ْﻟﻮاح ا ْﻟ ِﺤﺠﺎرة المﻨْﺘَ ِﻈﻤ ِﺔ ﺑﺒﺪﻳﻊ ا ِﻹ ْﻟﺼﺎ ِق‪ .‬ﻓﺠﺎءَ ْت ﻛﺄَﻧﱠﻬﺎ َﻓ ْﺮ ٌش‬ ‫واﺣ ٌﺪ‪ .‬و َﻗ ِﺪ اﻧﺘﻈﻤ ْﺖ َﺟﻤﻴ َﻌ ُﻪ اﻟﺘﺼﺎوﻳ ُﺮ اﻟﺒﺪﻳﻌ ُﺔ واﻷَ ْﺻ ِﺒ َﻐ ُﺔ اﻟ َﻐ ِﺮﻳﺒَ ُﺔ‪ ،‬ﺣﺘﻰ ﻟﻴُ َﺨﻴﱠ ُﻞ ﻟﻠﻨﱠﺎﻇﺮ ِﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫أَﻧﱠﻬﺎ َﺳ ْﻘ ٌﻒ ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟﺨ َﺸﺐ ال َمﻨ ُﻘﻮش‪ .‬واﻟﺘﱠﺼﺎوﻳ ُﺮ َﻋ َﲆ أَﻧﻮا ٍع‪ ،‬ﰲ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﺑﻼ َﻃ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻼﻃﺎﺗﻪ‪ .‬ﻓﻤﻨﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﺎ ﻗﺪ ﺟ ﱠﻠ َﻠﺘْ ُﻪ ُﻃﻴﻮ ٌر ِﺑ ُﺼ َﻮ ٍر را ِﺋ َﻘﺔ‪ ،‬ﺑﺎﺳ َﻄ ٌﺔ أَ ْﺟﻨﺤﺘَﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﺗُﻮﻫ ُﻢ اﻟﻨﱠﺎ ِﻇ َﺮ إِﻟﻴْ َﻬﺎ أَﻧﱠﻬﺎ ﺗَ ُﻬ ﱡﻢ ﺑﺎﻟ ﱠﻄ َيرا ِن‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﺎ َﻗ ْﺪ ﺟ ﱠﻠ َﻠﺘْ ُﻪ ﺗَﺼﺎ ِوﻳ ُﺮ آ َد ِﻣﻴﱠ ٌﺔ‪ ،‬را ِﺋ َﻘ ُﺔ المﻨ َﻈﺮ‪ ،‬راﺋ َﻌ ُﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺸ ْﻜ ِﻞ‪َ ،‬ﻗ ْﺪ أُ ِﻋ ﱠﺪ ْت ﻟﻜ ﱢﻞ ﺻﻮرة ﻣﻨﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻫﻴﺌَﺔ ﻫﻲ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ‪َ :‬ﻛﺈ ْﻣﺴﺎ ِك ِﺗ ْﻤﺜﺎ ٍل ﺑﻴ ِﺪﻫﺎ‪ ،‬أَو ﺳﻼ ٍح‪ ،‬أَ ْو ﻃﺎﺋ ٍﺮ‪ ،‬أَو ﻛﺄْ ٍس‪ ،‬أَو إِﺷﺎر ِة ﺷﺨﺺ إﱃ‬ ‫آﺧ َﺮ ِﺑﻴَ ِﺪ ِه‪ ،‬أَو ﻏي ِر ذﻟﻚ‪ ،‬ﻣﻤﺎ ﻳَ ُﻄﻮ ُل اﻟ َﻮ ْﺻ ُﻒ َﻟ ُﻪ‪ ،‬وﻻ ﺗﺘﺄَﺗﱠﻰ اﻟﻌﺒﺎر ُة ِﻻ ْﺳﺘﻴﻔﺎ ِﺋ ِﻪ‪ .‬و َدا ِﺧ َﻞ ﻫﺬا‬ ‫اﻟﻬﻴﻜ ِﻞ ا ْﻟ َﻌ ِﻈﻴ ِﻢ وﺧﺎر َﺟ ُﻪ وأَﻋﻼ ُه وأَ ْﺳ َﻔ َﻠﻪ‪ :‬ﺗﺼﺎوﻳ ُﺮ‪ ،‬ﻛ ﱡﻠﻬﺎ ُﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺎ ُت اﻷَﺷﻜﺎل واﻟ ﱢﺼﻔ ِﺔ‪ .‬ﻣﻨﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺼﺎوﻳ ُﺮ ﻫﺎﺋﻠ ُﺔ ال َمﻨ َﻈ ِﺮ‪ ،‬ﺧﺎرﺟ ٌﺔ ﻋﻦ ُﺻ َﻮ ِر اﻵد ِﻣﻴﱢين‪ ،‬ﻳ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺸ ِﻌ ُﺮ اﻟﻨﺎﻇ ُﺮ إِﻟﻴْﻬﺎ ُر ْﻋﺒًﺎ‪َ .‬وﻳَﺘَ َﻤﻸُ‬ ‫ﻣﻨْﻬﺎ ِﻋ ْ َﱪ ًة وﺗَ َﻌ ﱡﺠﺒًﺎ‪ .‬و َﻟ ْﺴ َﺖ ﺗﺮى ﻓﻴﻪ َﻣ ْﻐ ِﺮ َز إِ ْﺷ َﻔﻰ )وا ِﻹﺷ َﻔﻰ‪ :‬الِمﺜْ َﻘﺐ اﻟﺬي ﻳُ ْﺨ َﺮز ﺑﻪ ا ْﻟ ِﺠﻠ ُﺪ(‪،‬‬ ‫وﻻ ﺗَﺠ ُﺪ َﻣ ْﻐ ِﺮ َز إِﺑﺮة‪ ،‬إِﻻ وﺟﺪ َت ﻓﻴﻪ ﺻﻮر ًة أو ﻧَ ْﻘ ًﺸﺎ‪ ،‬أَو ﻛﺘﺎﺑ ًﺔ ﻻ ﺗُ ْﻔ َﻬ ُﻢ ﻛﺄَﻧﱠﻬﺎ ا ْﻟ َﺨ ﱡﻂ ال ُم ْﺴﻨَ ُﺪ‬ ‫) َو ُﻫ َﻮ َﺧ ﱞﻂ ﻳَ َﻤ ِﻨ ﱞﻲ َﻗ ِﺪﻳ ٌﻢ(‪ .‬و َﻗ ْﺪ َﻋ ﱠﻢ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻬﻴﻜ َﻞ اﻟﻌﻈﻴ َﻢ اﻟﺸﺄْ ِن — ُﻛ ﱠﻠ ُﻪ — ﻫﺬا اﻟﻨﱠ ْﻘ ُﺶ اﻟﺒﺪﻳ ُﻊ‪.‬‬ ‫‪31‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫وﻳﺘَﺄَﺗﱠﻰ ِﰲ ُﺻ ﱢﻢ اﻟ ِﺤﺠﺎر ِة ِﻣ ْﻦ ذﻟﻚ ﻣﺎ ﻻ ﻳﺘﺄَﺗﱠﻰ ﰲ اﻟ ﱢﺮ ْﺧ ِﻮ ﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ َﺨ َﺸ ِﺐ‪َ ،‬ﻓﻴَ ْﺤ َﺴ ُﺐ اﻟﻨﺎﻇ ُﺮ —‬ ‫اﺳﺘﻌﻈﺎ ًﻣﺎ ﻟﻪ — أَ ﱠن اﻟﺰﻣﺎ َن َﻟ ْﻮ ُﺷ ِﻐ َﻞ ﺑ َﱰْ ِﻗﻴ ِﺸ ِﻪ وﺗَ ْﺮ ِﺻﻴ ِﻌ ِﻪ وﺗَ ْﺰ ِﻳﻴﻨِ ِﻪ‪ ،‬ﻟ َﻀﺎ َق َﻋﻨْ ُﻪ‪ .‬و َﻋ َﲆ أَ ْﻋ َﲆ‬ ‫ﻫﺬا اﻟ َﻬﻴﻜ ِﻞ َﺳ ْﻄ ٌﺢ َﻣﻔﺮو ٌش ﺑﺄَ ْﻟﻮا ِح ا ْﻟ ِﺤﺠﺎ َر ِة اﻟ َﻌﻈﻴ َﻤ ِﺔ — َﻋ َﲆ اﻟ ﱢﺼ َﻔ ِﺔ ال َمﺬ ُﻛﻮ َر ِة — و ُﻫﻮ ﰲ‬ ‫ِﻧﻬﺎﻳ ِﺔ اﻻرﺗ َﻔﺎ ِع‪َ ،‬ﻓﻴﺤﺎ ُر ا ْﻟ َﻮ ْﻫ ُﻢ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻳَ ِﻀ ﱡﻞ اﻟ َﻌ ْﻘ ُﻞ‪ِ ،‬ﺣين ﻳﺘَ َﻤﺜﱠ ُﻞ ا ْﻟ ُﺠﻬﻮ َد اﻟﺘﻲ ﺑُ ِﺬ َﻟ ْﺖ ﰲ َر ْﻓ ِﻊ‬ ‫ﻫﺬ ِه اﻟﺼﺨﻮر اﻟ َﻬﺎ ِﺋ َﻠﺔ‪ ،‬إِﱃ أَﻋ َﲆ ذﻟﻚ اﻟ َﻬﻴﻜ ِﻞ‪.‬‬ ‫ودا ِﺧ َﻞ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻬﻴﻜ ِﻞ — ﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺠﺎﻟ ِﺲ واﻟ ﱠﺰواﻳﺎ‪ ،‬وال َمﺪا ِﺧ ِﻞ وال َمﺨﺎر ِج‪ ،‬وا ْﻟ َﻤﺼﺎ ِﻋ ِﺪ‬ ‫وال َمﻌﺎر ِج‪ ،‬وال َمﺴﺎ ِر ِب وال َمﻮاﻟ ِﺞ — ﻣﺎ ﺗَ ِﻀ ﱡﻞ ﻓﻴﻪ اﻟﺠﻤﺎﻋﺎ ُت ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﺎ ِس‪ ،‬وﻻ ﻳَ ْﻬﺘَ ِﺪي ﺑﻌ ُﻀﻬﻢ‬ ‫ِﻟﺒَ ْﻌﺾ إِﻻﱠ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﱢﺪا ِء اﻟ َﻌﺎ ِﱄ‪ .‬و َﻋ ْﺮ ُض ﺣﺎ ِﺋ ِﻄ ِﻪ ﺛﻤﺎﻧﻴ َﺔ ﻋ َ َﴩ ِﺷ ْﱪًا‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ ﻛ ﱡﻠ ُﻪ ﻣﻦ ِﺣﺠﺎر ٍة‬ ‫ﻣ ْﺮ ُﺻﻮ َﺻ ٍﺔ َﻋ َﲆ اﻟ ﱢﺼﻔ ٍﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ذﻛﺮﻧﺎﻫﺎ‪ .‬ﻓﺸﺄْ ُن ﻫﺬا اﻟﻬﻴﻜ ِﻞ ﻋﻈﻴﻢ‪ ،‬و َﻣ ْﺮآ ُه ِﻣ ْﻦ ﻋ َﺠﺎ ِﺋ ِﺐ اﻟ ﱡﺪﻧﻴﺎ‬ ‫ا ﱠﻟﺘﻲ ﻻ ﻳﺒْﻠ ُﻐﻬﺎ ا ْﻟ َﻮ ْﺻ ُﻒ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (5‬أَﻋﻮا ُن اﻟﺰﻛﺎ ِة‬ ‫وﰲ ﺑﻼ ِد ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱠﺼﻌﻴ ِﺪ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﱰ ُض ﻃﺮﻳ َﻖ اﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج وال ُمﺴﺎﻓﺮﻳ َﻦ‪ :‬ﻛ ِﺈﺧﻤﻴ َﻢ‪ ،‬و ُﻗﻮ ٍص‪ ،‬و ُﻣﻨْﻴَ ِﺔ‬ ‫اﺑْ ِﻦ ا ْﻟ َﺨﺼﻴ ِﺐ‪ ،‬ﻛﺜيرٌ ﻣﻦ اﻷَذَى وال ُمﻀﺎﻳﻘﺎ ِت اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳُ ْﻠ ِﺤ ُﻘﻬﺎ ال َم ﱠﻜﺎ ُﺳﻮ َن ﺑﻬﻢ‪ ،‬ﻣﺘﻌ ﱢﻠﻠين ﺑﺎﻟﺮﻏﺒﺔ‬ ‫ﰲ ﺗَ ْﺤ ِﺼﻴ ِﻞ اﻟ ﱠﺰﻛﺎ ِة‪ ،‬ﻓﻬﻢ — ﻛﺄَﺻﺤﺎ ِﺑﻬﻢ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ اﺳﺘَ ْﻘﺒَﻠﻮﻧﺎ ﰲ ﻣﻴﻨﺎ ِء ا ِﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪرﻳﺔ — ﻳُ ْﺪ ِﺧﻠﻮن‬ ‫أَﻳْﺪﻳَ ُﻬ ْﻢ ﰲ أَ ْوﺳﺎ ِط اﻟﺘﱡﺠﺎر‪َ ،‬ﻓ ْﺤ ًﺼﺎ ﻋ ﱠﻤﺎ ﺗﺄَﺑﱠ ُﻄﻮ ُه أَ ِو ا ْﺣﺘَﻀﻨﻮه ﻣﻦ درا ِﻫ َﻢ أَ ْو دﻧﺎﻧيرَ‪ ،‬دو َن‬ ‫أَن ﻳُﺮا ُﻋﻮا ﻣﺎ ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ْﻮ ِﺟﺐ اﻟ ﱠﺰﻛﺎ َة‪ .‬و ُرﺑﱠﻤﺎ أَﻟﺰ ُﻣﻮ ُﻫ ُﻢ اﻷَﻳْﻤﺎ َن َﻋ َﲆ ﻣﺎ ﺑﺄَﻳﺪﻳ ِﻬ ْﻢ‪ ،‬وﻫ ْﻞ ﻋﻨﺪ ُﻫ ْﻢ ﻏيرُ‬ ‫ذﻟﻚ؟ وﻳُ ْﺤ ُﴬو َن ﻛﺘﺎ َب ِﷲ اﻟﻌﺰﻳ ِﺰ ﻳَ َﻘ ُﻊ ا ْﻟﻴ ِﻤي ُن ﻋﻠﻴ ِﻪ‪ ،‬ﻓﻴ ِﻘ ُﻒ اﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ُج — ﺑَ ْين أَﻳْ ِﺪي ﻫﺆﻻءِ‬ ‫ال ُمﺘﻨﺎوﻟي َن ﻟﻠ ﱠﺰﻛﺎ ِة — َﻣﻮا ِﻗ َﻒ ِﺧ ْﺰي و َﻣﻬﺎﻧَﺔ‪ ،‬ﺗُ َﺬ ﱢﻛ ُﺮ ُﻫ ْﻢ أَﻳﱠﺎم ال ُمﻜﻮ ِس‪.‬‬ ‫)‪َ (6‬ﺟ ْﻮر ال َم ﱠﻜﺎﺳين‬ ‫وﻫﺬا أَﻣﺮ ﻻ ﺷﻚ ﰲ أَن »ﺻﻼ َح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳ ِﻦ« ﻻ ﻳَ ْﻌ ِﺮ ُﻓﻪ‪ ،‬وﻟﻮ َﻋ َﺮ َﻓ ُﻪ ﻷَﻣﺮ ِﺑ َﻘ ْﻄ ِﻌ ِﻪ وإِزاﻟﺘ ِﻪ‪َ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ‬ ‫أَﻣﺮ ﺑ َﻘﻄ ِﻊ ﻣﺎ ُﻫﻮ أَ ْﻋ َﻈ ُﻢ ِﻣﻨْﻪ‪ ،‬وﻟﺠﺎﻫ َﺪ أَﺻﺤﺎ َب ﻫﺬا اﻟ َﺠﻮ ِر ال ُمﺘَﻨَﺎ ِوﻟي َن ﻟﻠ ﱠﺰﻛﺎ ِة‪ ،‬ﻓ ِﺈن ِﺟﻬﺎ َد ُﻫ ْﻢ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻮاﺟﺒﺎت‪ِ ،‬ﻟﻤﺎ ﻳَ ْﺼ ُﺪر ﻋﻨﻬﻢ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺘَﻌ ﱡﺴ ِﻒ‪ ،‬وا ْﻟ َﺠ ْﻮر‪َ ،‬و َﻋ ِﺴي ِر ا ِﻹ ْرﻫﺎ ِق‪ ،‬وﺳﻮءِ المﻌﺎ َﻣ َﻠ ِﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻊ ُﻏﺮﺑﺎ َء ﻗﺪ اﻧْﻘ َﻄ ُﻌﻮا إِﱃ ﷲ‪ ،‬وﺧﺮ ُﺟﻮا ُﻣﻬﺎﺟ ِﺮﻳﻦ إِﱃ َﺣﺮ ِﻣﻪ اﻷَﻣي ِن‪ .‬و َﻟ ْﻮ ﺷﺎ َء ﷲُ ﻟﻜﺎﻧَ ْﺖ‬ ‫‪32‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫﺮة إﱃ َﻋﻴﺬا ْب‬ ‫ﻫﺬه ال ُمﻨﺎ َﺳﺒ ُﺔ ُﻓ ْﺮﺻ ًﺔ ﻟﺘَ ْﺤﺼﻴ ِﻞ اﻟ ﱠﺰﻛﺎ ِة‪ ،‬و َﻣﻨْ ُﺪو َﺣ ًﺔ ﻻ ْﻗ ِﺘﻀﺎ ِﺋﻬﺎ َﻋ َﲆ أَﺟ َﻤ ِﻞ اﻟ ُﻮﺟﻮ ِه ِﻣ ْﻦ َذوى‬ ‫ا ْﻟﺒﻀﺎﺋﻊ ﰲ اﻟﺘﱢﺠﺎرا ِت‪َ ،‬ﻣﺘَﻰ ﺣﺎ َل َﻋ َﻠﻴْﻬﺎ ا ْﻟ َﺤ ْﻮ ُل‪ ،‬وا ْﺳﺘَ ْﻮ َﺟﺒَ ِﺖ اﻟ ﱠﺰﻛﺎ َة‪ .‬أَ ﱠﻣﺎ اﻋﱰا ُض اﻟﻐﺮﺑﺎ ِء‬ ‫ال ُمﻨْ َﻘﻄﻌي َن — ِﻣ ﱠﻤ ْﻦ ﺗَ ِﺠ ْﺐ اﻟ ﱠﺰﻛﺎ ُة َﻟﻪ ﻻ َﻋ َﻠﻴْ ِﻪ — ﻓﺄَ ْﻣ ٌﺮ ﻻ ﻳَ ْﺮﺿﺎ ُه ذ ِﻟ َﻚ اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠﻄﺎ ُن اﻟﻌﺎ ِد ُل‪ ،‬ا ﱠﻟﺬي‬ ‫َﻗ ْﺪ ﺷ ِﻤ َﻞ اﻟﺒﻼ َد َﻋ ْﺪﻟُ ُﻪ‪ ،‬وﺳﺎ َر ﰲ اﻵﻓﺎ ِق ِذ ْﻛ ُﺮ ُه‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (7‬ﺷﻴﺎ ِﻃي ُن ا ِﻹﻧْ ِﺲ‬ ‫َو ِﻣ ْﻦ أَ ْﺷﻨَ ِﻊ ﻣﺎ َﺷﺎ َﻫ ْﺪﻧﺎ ُه — ِﻣ ْﻦ ذ ِﻟ َﻚ — ُﺧﺮو ُج ﻃﺎﺋﻔ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ ال َم َﺮ َدة‪ :‬أَﻋﻮا ِن اﻟﺰﻛﺎة‪ ،‬وﻗﺪ رأَﻳﻨﺎ‬ ‫ﰲ ﻳ ِﺪ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ﻣﺎرد ﻣﻨﻬﻢ ِﻣ َﺴ ﱠﻠ ًﺔ — ِﻣ َﻦ ال َمﺴﺎ ﱢل اﻟ ﱢﻄﻮا ِل — ﻓﻴَﺼ َﻌ ُﺪو َن إِﱃ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺮاﻛ ِﺐ اﺳ ِﺘ ْﻜ َﺸﺎ ًﻓﺎ‬ ‫ِﻟﻤﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﻼ ﻳَ ْﱰُﻛﻮن ِﻏﺮارة وﻻ ِﻋ ْﻜ ًﻤﺎ ) َزﻛﻴﺒ ًﺔ( إِﻻﱠ ﺗَ َﺨ ﱠﻠﻠُﻮ ُه و َﺧ ﱠﺮ ُﻗﻮ ُه ِﺑﺘِ ْﻠ َﻚ الِم َﺴﻼﱠ ِت ال ُم ْﺆ ِذﻳَ ِﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫َﻣﺨﺎ َﻓ َﺔ أَن ﻳﻜﻮ َن ﰲ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟ ِﻐﺮارة أَو ا ْﻟ ِﻌ ْﻜﻢ — اﻟ ﱠﻠ َﺬﻳْ ِﻦ ﻻ ﻳَ ْﺤﺘَ ِﻮﻳﺎ ِن َﻏ ْيرَ اﻟ ﱠﺰا ِد — َ ْﳾ ٌء ُﻏﻴﱢ َﺐ‬ ‫ﻋﻠﻴ ِﻪ ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﺑ َﻀﺎ َﻋﺔ أَ ْو َﻣﺎل‪.‬‬ ‫وﻗﺪ ﻧَ َﻬﻰ ﷲُ ﻋﻦ اﻟﺘﱠ َﺠ ﱡﺴ ِﺲ‪ ،‬ﻓ َﻜﻴْ َﻒ َﻋ ْﻦ َﻛ ْﺸ ِﻒ ﻣﺎ ﻳُ ِﺮﻳ ُﺪ ﺻﺎ ِﺣﺒُ ُﻪ أَن ﻳ ْﺴ ُﱰَ ُه‪ ،‬وﻻ ﻳُﺤﺐ‬ ‫أَ ْن ﻳُ ْﻄ ِﻠ َﻊ ﻋﻠﻴﻪ أَ َﺣ ًﺪا — ﻟﺤﻘﺎ َر ِﺗﻪ أَو ﻧﻔﺎﺳ ِﺘ ِﻪ — ﻣﻦ َﻏ ْي ِر أَن ﻳَﺒْ َﺨ َﻞ ﺑﻮا ِﺟ ٍﺐ ﻳﻠ َﺰ ُﻣ ُﻪ‪ .‬وﷲُ اﻵ ِﺧﺬُ‬ ‫ﻋﲆ أَﻳﺪي ﻫﺆﻻ ِء اﻟ ﱠﻈ َﻠﻤ ِﺔ ﺑﻴ ِﺪ ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱡﺴﻠﻄﺎ ِن اﻟﻌﺎ ِد ِل وﺗﻮﻓﻴ ِﻘ ِﻪ‪ ،‬إِ ْن ﺷﺎءَ ﷲ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (8‬ﻃﺎﺋﻔ ٌﺔ ﻣﻦ ُﻣ ُﺪن اﻟﺼﻌﻴﺪ‬ ‫و ِﻣ َﻦ المﻮا ِﺿ ِﻊ اﻟﺘﻲ اﺟﺘَ ْﺰﻧﺎ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ — ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺪ »إِ ْﺧ ِﻤﻴ َﻢ« ﻣ ْﻮ ِﺿ ُﻊ ُﻣﻨْﺸﺎ ِة اﻟ ﱡﺴﻮدا ِن‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﲆ اﻟ ﱠﺸ ﱢﻂ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﻐ ْﺮﺑ ﱢﻲ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ‪ .‬وﻫﻲ َﻗ ْﺮﻳَ ٌﺔ َﻣ ْﻌ ُﻤﻮ َر ٌة‪ ،‬وﻳﻘﺎ ُل إِﻧﱠﻬﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ِﰲ ا ْﻟ ِﻘ َﺪ ِم َﻣﺪﻳﻨَ ًﺔ ﻛﺒير ًة‪ .‬وﻗ ْﺪ ﻗﺎم‬ ‫أَﻣﺎم ﻫﺬه اﻟ َﻘ ْﺮﻳ ِﺔ — ﺑﻴﻨَﻬﺎ وﺑي َن اﻟﻨﱢﻴ ِﻞ — رﺻﻴ ٌﻒ ﻋﺎل ﻣﻦ اﻟ ِﺤﺠﺎرة ﻛﺄَﻧﱠ ُﻪ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻮ ُر ﻳَ ْ ِﴬ ُب‬ ‫ِﻓﻴ ِﻪ اﻟﻨﻴ ُﻞ وﻻ ﻳَ ْﻌﻠُﻮ ُه ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ َﻓﻴْ ِﻀ ِﻪ وﻣ ﱢﺪ ِه‪ .‬ﻓﺎ ْﻟ َﻘ ْﺮﻳَ ُﺔ — ِﺑ َﺴﺒَﺒ ِﻪ — ﰲ أَ ْﻣ ٍﻦ ﻣﻦ أَ ْﻣﻮا ِج اﻟﻨﻴﻞ‬ ‫وﻣﻴﺎ ِﻫ ِﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﻮﺿ ٌﻊ ﻳُ َﺴ ﱠﻤﻰ »ا ْﻟﺒُ ْﻠﻴَﻨَ َﺔ« وﻫﻲ َﻗ ْﺮﻳَ ٌﺔ ﺣ َﺴﻨَ ٌﺔ ﻛﺜير ُة اﻟﻨﱠ ْﺨﻞ‪ ،‬ﺑﺎﻟ ﱠﺸ ﱢﻂ ا ْﻟ َﻐ ْﺮ ِﺑ ﱢﻲ ِﻣ َﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻨﻴ ِﻞ‪ ،‬ﺑﻴﻨَﻬﺎ وﺑي َن » ُﻗﻮ ٍص« أَ ْرﺑَ َﻌ ُﺔ ﺑُ ُﺮ ٍد‪ ،‬وﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﻮﺿ ٌﻊ ﻳﺴ ﱠﻤﻰ » َد ْﺷﻨَﺔ« ﺑﺎﻟ ﱠﺸ ﱢﻂ اﻟ ْﴩ ِﻗ ﱢﻲ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻨﻴﻞ‪ ،‬ﺑﻴﻨﻬﺎ وﺑي َن » ُﻗﻮ ٍص« ﺑَﺮﻳﺪا ِن )وا ْﻟ ِﱪﻳﺪ‪ :‬اﺛْﻨَﺎ َﻋ َ َﴩ ِﻣﻴ ًﻼ(‪ .‬وﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﻮﺿ ٌﻊ ﺑ َﻐ ْﺮﺑ ﱢﻲ اﻟﻨﻴ ِﻞ‪،‬‬ ‫وﻋﲆ ﻣﻘ َﺮﺑﺔ ﻣﻦ َﺷ ﱢﻄ ِﻪ‪ ،‬ﻳﺴ ﱠﻤﻰ » َدﻧْ َﺪ َر َة« وﻫ َﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﻨ ٌﺔ ﻣﻦ ُﻣ ُﺪ ِن اﻟ ﱠﺼ ِﻌﻴﺪ‪ ،‬ﻛﺜير ُة اﻟﻨﺨ ِﻞ‪،‬‬ ‫ُﻣ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺤ َﺴﻨَ ُﺔ ال َمﻨ َﻈ ِﺮ‪ُ ،‬ﻣ ْﺸﺘَ ِﻬﺮ ٌة ِﺑ َﻄﻴﱢ ِﺐ اﻟ ﱡﺮ َﻃ ِﺐ‪ ،‬ﺑﻴﻨﻬﺎ وﺑي َن » ُﻗﻮ ٍص« ﺑَ ِﺮﻳ ٌﺪ‪ .‬وذُ ِﻛ َﺮ ﻟﻨﺎ أَ ﱠن ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫‪33‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫َﻫﻴْ َﻜ ًﻼ َﻋ ِﻈﻴ ًﻤﺎ — وﻫﻮ ﻣﻌﺮو ٌف ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ أَ ْﻫ ِﻞ ﻫﺬ ِه اﻟﺠﻬﺎ ِت »ﺑﺎ ْﻟ َﱪْﺑَﻰ« — َﺣﺴﺒﻤﺎ ذ َﻛﺮﻧﺎ ﻋﻨ َﺪ‬ ‫ِذﻛ ِﺮ »إِ ْﺧ ِﻤﻴ َﻢ« و َﻫﻴْ َﻜ ِﻠﻬﺎ‪َ .‬وﻳﻘﺎ ُل إِ ﱠن َﻫﻴْ َﻜ َﻞ »دﻧْ َﺪ َر َة« أَﺣﻔ ُﻞ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ وأَﻋﻈ ُﻢ‪ .‬وﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨ ُﺔ » ِﻗﻨﺎ«‬ ‫وﻫﻲ ﻣﻦ ُﻣﺪن اﻟ ﱠﺼ ِﻌﻴ ِﺪ‪ ،‬ﺑَﻴْﻀﺎءُ أَﻧﻴ َﻘ ُﺔ ا ْﻟ َﻤﻨْ َﻈ ِﺮ‪ ،‬ذا ُت ﻣﺒﺎن ﺣ ِﻔﻴ َﻠ ٍﺔ‪ .‬وﻣﻨﻬﺎ » ِﻗ ْﻔ ٌﻂ« وﻫ َﻲ‬ ‫ﻣﺪﻳﻨ ٌﺔ ِﺑ َ ْﴩ ِﻗ ﱢﻲ اﻟﻨﻴﻞ — وﻋﲆ ﻣﻘﺪار ﺛﻼﺛ ِﺔ أَ ْﻣﻴﺎل ﻣﻦ َﺷ ﱢﻄﻪ — وﻫ َﻲ ﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ُﺪ ِن المﺬﻛﻮر ِة ﰲ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱠﺼﻌﻴ ِﺪ ُﺣ ْﺴﻨًﺎ وﻧﻈﺎ َﻓ َﺔ ﺑُﻨﻴﺎ ٍن‪ ،‬وإِﺗﻘﺎ َن َو ْﺿ ِﻊ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺛﻢ ﻛﺎن اﻟﻮﺻﻮ ُل إﱃ » ُﻗﻮ ٍص« ﻳﻮ َم ا ْﻟ َﺨﻤﻴﺲ اﻟ ﱠﺮاﺑ ِﻊ واﻟﻌﴩﻳ َﻦ ِﻟ ُﻤ َﺤ ﱠﺮ ٍم؛ ﻓﻜﺎ َن ُﻣﻘﺎ ُﻣﻨَﺎ‬ ‫ﰲ اﻟﻨﻴ ِﻞ ﺛﻤﺎﻧﻴ َﺔ َﻋ َ َﴩ ﻳَ ْﻮ ًﻣﺎ‪ ،‬ودﺧﻠﻨﺎ َﻣ ِﺪﻳﻨَ َﺔ » ُﻗﻮص« ﰲ اﻟﺘﺎﺳ َﻊ َﻋﴩ‪ ،‬وﻫﺬ ِه المﺪﻳﻨ ُﺔ ﺣﻔﻴﻠ ُﺔ‬ ‫اﻷَ ْﺳﻮا ِق‪ ،‬ﻣﺘﱠ ِﺴﻌ ُﺔ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺮاﻓ ِﻖ‪ ،‬ﻛﺜير ُة ا ْﻟ َﺨ ْﻠ ِﻖ‪ِ ،‬ﻟ َﻜﺜْﺮ ِة اﻟﺼﺎ ِد ِر واﻟﻮار ِد ﻣﻦ اﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج واﻟﺘﱡ ﱠﺠﺎ ِر‬ ‫اﻟﻴَ َﻤﻨﻴي َن واﻟ ِﻬﻨْ ِﺪﻳي َن وﺗُ ﱠﺠﺎر أَ ْر ِض ا ْﻟ َﺤﺒَ َﺶ؛ ﻷَﻧﱠﻬﺎ َﻣ ْﺨ َﻄ ٌﺮ ) َﻣ َﻤ ﱞﺮ( ِﻟ ْﻠ َﺠ ِﻤﻴﻊ‪ ،‬و َﻣ َﺤ ﱞﻂ ِﻟﻠ ﱢﺮﺣﺎ ِل‪،‬‬ ‫و ُﻣ ْﺠﺘَ َﻤ ُﻊ اﻟ ﱢﺮﻓﺎ ِق‪ ،‬و ُﻣ ْﻠﺘَ َﻘﻰ ا ْﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج ال َمﻐﺎ ِرﺑ ِﺔ والِمﴫﻳي َن وا ِﻹ ْﺳ َﻜﻨْ َﺪ ِرﻳي َن و َﻣ ْﻦ ﻳﺘﱠﺼ ُﻞ ﺑﻬ ْﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻳُﺴﺎ ِﻓﺮون ُﻣ َﻔ ﱢﻮ ِزﻳﻦ )ﻗﺎ ِﻃﻌي َن ا ْﻟ َﻤﻔﺎزة( ِﺑ َﺼ ْﺤﺮا ِء » َﻋﻴْﺬَا َب«‪ ،‬وإِﻟﻴﻬﺎ اﻧْ ِﻘﻼﺑُ ُﻬ ْﻢ ﺣين‬ ‫ﻳَ ْﺮ ِﺟ ُﻌﻮن ﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ َﺤ ﱢﺞ‪ .‬وﻛﺎن ﻧُ ُﺰوﻟُﻨَﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﺑ ُﻔﻨْ ُﺪ ٍق ﻳُﻨْ َﺴ ُﺐ ﻻﺑْ ِﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻌ َﺠ ِﻤ ﱢﻲ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ُ (9‬ﺧﺴﻮ ُف اﻟﻘﻤﺮ‬ ‫واﺳﺘَ َﻬ ﱠﻞ ِﻫﻼ ُل » َﺻ َﻔﺮ« ﻟﻴﻠ َﺔ اﻷَ ْر ِﺑﻌﺎ ِء‪ ،‬وﻧَ ْﺤ ُﻦ ﺑ» ُﻗﻮ ٍص« ﻧُﺮﻳ ُﺪ اﻟ ﱠﺴ َﻔﺮ إِﱃ » َﻋﻴﺬا َب«‪ ،‬وﰲ ﻳَ ْﻮ ِم‬ ‫اﻹﺛْﻨَ ْي ِن اﻟﺜﺎﻟ َﺚ ﻋ َﴩ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ‪ ،‬أَ ْﺧ َﺮ ْﺟﻨﺎ ﺟﻤﻴ َﻊ ِرﺣﺎ ِﻟﻨﺎ — ِﻣ ْﻦ َزاد وﺳﻮا ُه — إِﱃ ﻣ ْﻮ ِﺿ ٍﻊ ِﺑ ِﻘﺒْﲇﱢ‬ ‫ا ْﻟﺒَ َﻠ ِﺪ و َﻋ َﲆ َﻣ ْﻘ َﺮﺑ ٍﺔ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ‪َ ،‬ﻓﺴﻴ ِﺢ اﻟ ﱠﺴﺎ َﺣ ِﺔ‪ُ ،‬ﻣ ْﺤ َﺪ ٍق ﺑﺎﻟﻨﱢ ِﺨﻴﻞ‪ ،‬ﻳَ ْﺠﺘَ ِﻤ ُﻊ ﻓﻴ ِﻪ ِرﺣﺎ ُل اﻟﺤﺎ ﱢج واﻟﺘﱡﺠﺎ ِر‪،‬‬ ‫وﺗُ َﺸ ﱡﺪ ﻓﻴ ِﻪ‪ ،‬وﻣﻨ ُﻪ ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ِﻘ ﱡﻠﻮ َن َوﻳَ ْﺮ َﺣﻠﻮن‪ ،‬وﻓﻴ ِﻪ ﻳُﻮ َز ُن ﻣﺎ ﻳُ ْﺤﺘَﺎ ُج إِﱃ و ْزﻧِ ِﻪ َﻋ َﲆ ا ْﻟ َﺠ ﱠﻤﺎ ِﻟي َن‪.‬‬ ‫ﻓﻠﻤﺎ ُﻛﻨﱠﺎ إِﺛ َﺮ َﺻﻼ ِة اﻟ ِﻌﺸﺎ ِء‪ ،‬رﻓ ْﻌﻨﺎ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ إِﱃ ﻣﺎ ٍء ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑﺎﻟﺤﺎﺟ ِﺮ‪ ،‬ﻓ ِﺒﺘْﻨَﺎ ﺑ ِﻪ‪ .‬وأَ ْﺻﺒَ ْﺤﻨﺎ‬ ‫— ﻳﻮ َم اﻟﺜﱡﻼﺛﺎ ِء ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺪ ُه — ُﻣﻘﻴﻤي َن ﺑﻪ‪ِ ،‬ﺑ َﺴﺒﺐ ﺗَﻔ ﱡﻘ ِﺪ ﺑﻌ ِﺾ اﻟﺠ ﱠﻤﺎﻟين — ِﻣﻦ اﻟ َﻌﺮب —‬ ‫ِﻟﺒُﻴﻮ ِﺗ ِﻬ ْﻢ‪ ،‬و َﻛﺎﻧَ ْﺖ َﻋ َﲆ َﻣ ْﻘ َﺮﺑﺔ ِﻣﻨْ ُﻬ ْﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫وﰲ َﻟﻴﻠﺔ اﻷَ ْر ِﺑﻌﺎ ِء‪ :‬اﻟﺨﺎﻣ َﺲ ﻋ َ َﴩ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ — وﻧَ ْﺤ ُﻦ ﺑﺎﻟﺤﺎﺟ ِﺮ — ُﺧ ِﺴ َﻒ اﻟ َﻘﻤ ُﺮ ُﺧﺴﻮ ًﻓﺎ‬ ‫ُﻛ ﱢﻠﻴٍّﺎ — أَ ﱠو َل اﻟﻠﻴ ِﻞ — وﺗﻤﺎ َدى إِﱃ َﻫ ْﺪ ٍء ﻣﻨ ُﻪ‪ .‬ﺛ ﱠﻢ أَ ْﺻﺒَ ْﺤﻨﺎ ﻳَ ْﻮ َم اﻷَ ْر ِﺑﻌﺎءِ ُﻣﺴﺎ ِﻓﺮﻳ َﻦ — إِﱃ‬ ‫ﻧﺼﻒ اﻟﻨﱠﻬﺎر — َﻓﺒ َﻠ ْﻐﻨﺎ ﻣ ْﻮﺿ ًﻌﺎ ﻳُ ْﻌﺮ ُف ﺑ ِﻘﻼع اﻟ ﱢﻀﻴﺎ ِع‪ .‬ﺛ ﱠﻢ ﻛﺎ َن ا ْﻟ َﻤﺒﻴ ُﺖ ِﺑ َﻤ ْﻮﺿﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف‬ ‫ِﺑ َﻤ َﺤ ﱢﻂ اﻟ ﱠﻠﻘﻴ َﻄ ِﺔ‪ .‬ﻛ ﱡﻞ ذﻟ َﻚ ﰲ َﺻ ْﺤﺮاءَ ﻻ ِﻋﻤﺎ َر َة ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫‪34‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫﺮة إﱃ َﻋﻴﺬا ْب‬ ‫)‪ (10‬ﻣﴫ ُع اﻟ َﻌﺒﺪﻳﻦ‬ ‫ﺛُ ﱠﻢ َﻏ َﺪ ْوﻧﺎ ﻳَ ْﻮ َم اﻟﺨﻤﻴ ِﺲ‪ ،‬ﻓﻨَ َﺰ ْﻟﻨﺎ َﻋ َﲆ ﻣﺎ ٍء ﻳُﻨْ َﺴ ُﺐ ِﻟ ْﻠ َﻌﺒْ َﺪﻳْﻦ‪ ،‬وﻗﺪ ﺳﺄَ ْﻟﻨﺎ ﻋﻦ اﻟ َﻌﺒْ َﺪﻳﻦ ﻣﻦ ُﻫﻤﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫َﻓﻘﻴ َﻞ َﻟﻨَﺎ إِن َﻋﺒْ َﺪﻳ ِﻦ ﻗﺪ ﻣﺎﺗﺎ ﻋﻄ ًﺸﺎ — ﻗﺒﻞ أَن ﻳ ِﺮدا ﻫﺬا المﺎءَ — َﻓ ُﺴ ﱢﻤ َﻲ ذﻟ َﻚ ال َم ْﻮﺿ ُﻊ ﺑﻬﻤﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫و َﻗ ْﱪا ُﻫﻤﺎ ﺑ ِﻪ‪َ ،‬ر ِﺣ َﻤ ُﻬﻤﺎ ﷲُ‪ .‬ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ﺗ َﺰ ﱠو ْدﻧﺎ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ المﺎ َء ﻟﺜﻼﺛ ِﺔ أَﻳﱠﺎم‪َ ،‬و َﻓ ﱠﻮ ْزﻧﺎ ) ِ ْﴎﻧﺎ ﰲ ال َم َﻔﺎزة‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ‪:‬‬ ‫اﻟ ﱠﺼ ْﺤﺮا ُء( ُﻣﺴﺎﻓ ِﺮﻳ َﻦ َﺳ َﺤ َﺮ ﻳَ ْﻮم ا ْﻟ ُﺠ ُﻤﻌ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺴﺎﺑ َﻊ ﻋ َﴩ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ‪ ،‬ﻧَﺒﻴ ُﺖ ُﻛ ﱢﻠﻤﺎ ﺟﺎ َء اﻟﻠﻴ ُﻞ‪ ،‬وﻧ َﺮى ﰲ‬ ‫َﻃﺮﻳﻘﻨﺎ اﻟ َﻘﻮا ِﻓ َﻞ اﻟ َﻌﻴْﺬا ِﺑﻴﱠ َﺔ واﻟ ُﻘﻮ ِﺻﻴﱠ َﺔ — ﺻﺎ ِد َر ًة ووا ِرد ًة — وا ْﻟ َﻤﻔﺎ َز َة َﻣ ْﻌﻤﻮ َر ًة أَ ْﻣﻨًﺎ‪ .‬ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ‬ ‫ﻛﺎ َن ﻳَ ْﻮ ُم اﻹﺛْﻨَ ْي ِن ال ُمﻮﰲ ِﻋﴩﻳ َﻦ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ‪ ،‬ﻧ َﺰﻟﻨﺎ ﻋﲆ ﻣﺎ ٍء ﺑﻤ ْﻮ ِﺿ ٍﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ ِﺮ ُف ِﺑﺎ ْﺳ ِﻢ »دﻧْﻘﺎش« وﻫ َﻲ‬ ‫ﺑ ْﱤٌ َﻣ ِﻌﻴﻨ ٌﺔ َﻗ ِﺮﻳ ٌﺐ ﻣﺎؤﻫﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ وﺟ ِﻪ اﻷَ ْرض‪َ ،‬ﻓيرْﺗَ ِﻮي ﻣﻨﻬﺎ — ﻣﻦ اﻷَﻧﺎم واﻷَﻧﻌﺎ ِم — ﻣﺎ ﻻ‬ ‫ﻳُ ْﺤ ِﺼﻴ ِﻬ ْﻢ إِﻻ ﷲُ َﻋ ﱠﺰ و َﺟ ﱠﻞ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (11‬اﻟﻬﻮا ِد ُج اﻟﻴﻤﻨﻴﱠﺔ‬ ‫وﻻ ﻳﺴﺎ َﻓ ُﺮ ﰲ ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱠﺼ ْﺤﺮاءِ إِﻻﱠ َﻋ َﲆ ا ِﻹ ِﺑﻞ; ِﻟ َﺼ ْ ِﱪﻫﺎ َﻋ َﲆ اﻟ ﱠﻈ َﻤ ِﺈ‪ .‬وأَ ْﺣ َﺴ ُﻦ ﻣﺎ ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَﻌي ُن ﺑ ِﻪ‬ ‫ال ُمﺴﺎ ِﻓﺮو َن — ِﻣﻦ أَ ْﻫ ِﻞ اﻟﻴﺴﺎ ِر وذَ ِوي اﻟ ﱠﱰْﻓﻴ ِﻪ — أَﻧﱠ ُﻬﻢ ﻳَ َﻀﻌﻮن َﻋ َﲆ ا ْﻟ ِﺠﻤﺎ ِل َﺷﻘﺎد َف ﺗُ ْﺸ ِﺒ ُﻪ‬ ‫اﻟ َﻬ َﻮاد َج وال َمﺤﺎﻣ َﻞ‪ .‬وأَ ْﺣﺴ ُﻦ أَﻧﻮا ِﻋﻬﺎ اﻟﻴﻤﺎﻧﻴﱠ ُﺔ‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ ُﻣ َﺠ ﱠﻠ َﺪة ُﻣﺘﱠ ِﺴ َﻌ ٌﺔ‪َ ،‬ﻣ ْﺸﺪود ُة إِﱃ اﻟﺠﻤﺎ ِل‬ ‫ﺑﺄَ ْﺣ ِﺰﻣﺔ ﻳُﻮ َﺻ ُﻞ ﺑين ُﻛ ﱢﻞ اﺛْﻨَ ْين ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﺤﺒﺎل اﻟﻮﺛﻴﻘﺔ‪ .‬وﻳﻮﺿﻊ اﻟ َﻬ ْﻮ َد ُج أَ ِو اﻟ ﱡﺸ ْﻘ ُﺪ ُف َﻋ َﲆ َﻇ ْﻬ ِﺮ‬ ‫ا ْﻟﺒَﻌير‪ .‬وﻟﻬﺎ أَذْ ُر ٌع َﻗ ْﺪ َﺣ ﱠﻔ ْﺖ ﺑﺄَ ْرﻛﺎ ِﻧﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻳﻜﻮ ُن َﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ ِﻣ ﱠﻈﻠ ٌﺔ ﺗَﻘﻲ َﻣ ْﻦ ﰲ اﻟ َﻬ ْﻮ َد ِج َﺣ ﱠﺮ اﻟ ﱠﺸﻤﺲ؛‬ ‫َﻓﻴﻘ ُﻌ ُﺪ ُﻣ ْﺴﱰﻳ ًﺤﺎ‪ ،‬وﻳﺘﻨﺎ َو ُل — ﻣﻊ َﻋﺪﻳﻠ ِﻪ — ﻣﺎ ﻳَ ْﺤﺘﺎ ُج إِﻟﻴ ِﻪ ﻣﻦ زا ٍد و ِﺳﻮا ُه‪ ،‬وﻳُﻄﺎ ِﻟ ُﻊ —‬ ‫ﻣﺘَﻰ ﺷﺎءَ ال ُمﻄﺎ َﻟﻌ َﺔ — ﰲ ُﻣ ْﺼ َﺤ ٍﻒ أَ ْو ﻛﺘﺎ ٍب‪ .‬و ِﻟﻤ ْﻦ ﺷﺎءَ — ِﻣ ﱠﻤ ْﻦ ﻳﺄْ َﻟ ُﻒ ا ﱠﻟﻠ ِﻌ َﺐ ﺑﺎﻟ ﱢﺸ ْﻄ َﺮﻧْ ِﺞ‬ ‫َوﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ِﺠﻴ ُﺰ ُه — أَن ﻳُﻼ ِﻋ َﺐ َﻋﺪﻳ َﻠﻪ ﺗَ َﻔ ﱡﻜ ًﻬﺎ وإِ ْﺟﻤﺎ ًﻋﺎ ِﻟﻠﻨﱠ ْﻔ ِﺲ‪ .‬وﺑﺎ ْﻟ ُﺠ ْﻤ َﻠ ِﺔ ﻓ ِﺈﻧﻬﺎ ُﻣ ِﺮﻳ َﺤ ٌﺔ ِﻣﻦ ﻧَ َﺼ ِﺐ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱠﺴ َﻔ ِﺮ‪ .‬وأَ ْﻛﺜ ُﺮ ال ُمﺴﺎ ِﻓﺮﻳ َﻦ ﻳ ْﺮ َﻛﺒﻮ َن ا ِﻹ ِﺑ َﻞ َﻋ َﲆ أَ ْﺣﻤﺎ ِﻟﻬﺎ‪َ ،‬ﻓﻴُﻜﺎﺑﺪو َن ِﻣﻦ َﻣ َﺸ ﱠﻘ ِﺔ ا ْﻟ َﺤ ﱢﺮ و َﻟ ْﻔ ِﺢ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱠﺸﻤﺲ َﻋﻨَﺘًﺎ َو َﻣ َﺸ ﱠﻘ ًﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫‪35‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪ِ (12‬ﺷﺠﺎر اﻟﺠ ّﻤﺎﻟين‬ ‫وﰲ ﻫﺬا المﺎءِ وﻗ َﻌ ْﺖ ُﻣﺸﺎﺟ َﺮ ٌة ِﺑ َﺴﺒ ِﺐ اﻟﺘﱠ َﺰا ُﺣ ِﻢ َﻋ َﲆ المﺎءِ ﺑين ﺑ ْﻌ ِﺾ َﺟ ﱠﻤﺎ ِﱄ اﻟﻌ َﺮ ِب اﻟﻴَ َﻤﻨﻴﱢي َن‬ ‫— أَ ْﺻ َﺤﺎ ِب ﻃﺮﻳ ِﻖ » َﻋﻴْﺬَاب« —وﺑين ﺑ ْﻌ ِﺾ اﻷَ ْﻏﺰا ِز )واﻟ ُﻐ ﱡﺰ ِﺟﻨْ ٌﺲ ﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱡ ْﱰك(؛ ﻓﻜﺎ َدت ﺗﻠ َﻚ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ ُﻤﻬﺎ َو َﺷ ُﺔ ﺗُ ْﻔﴤ إِﱃ اﻟ ِﻔﺘْﻨَ ِﺔ‪ ،‬ﺛ ﱠﻢ َﻋ َﺼ َﻢ ﷲُ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ و َﻟ َﻄ َﻒ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (13‬اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻘﺎن‬ ‫واﻟ َﻘ ْﺼ ُﺪ إِﱃ » َﻋﻴْﺬاب« ِﻣﻦ » ُﻗﻮ ٍص«‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﲆ ﻃﺮﻳ َﻘ ْي ِن‪ :‬إِ ْﺣﺪا ُﻫﻤﺎ ﺗُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ِﺑ َﻄﺮﻳ ِﻖ ا ْﻟ َﻌﺒْ َﺪﻳْ ِﻦ —‬ ‫وﻫﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺘﻲ ﺳﻠ ْﻜﻨﺎﻫﺎ — وﻫ َﻲ أَ ْﻗ ُﴫ َﻣﺴﺎﻓ ًﺔ‪ .‬واﻷُ ْﺧ َﺮى ﺗﺒْ َﺪأُ ِﻣﻦ ﻗ ْﺮﻳﺔ ﻋﲆ ﺷﺎﻃ ِﺊ اﻟﻨﱢﻴﻞ‬ ‫ﺑﺎﻟ ُﻘ ْﺮ ِب ﻣﻦ َﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ » ِﻗﻨَﺎ«‪ :‬وﺗَﻠﺘﻘﻲ اﻟ ﱠﻄﺮﻳﻘﺎ ِن َﻋ َﲆ َﻣ ْﻘ َﺮﺑﺔ ﻣ ْﻦ ﻣﺎءِ »دﻧﻘﺎش«‪ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ ﺗَ ْﻠﺘَ ِﻘﻴﺎ ِن‬ ‫ﻛﺬﻟﻚ ﻋﲆ ﻣﺎ ِء »ﺷﺎ ِﻏ ٍﺐ«‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ َﻋ َﲆ ﻣﺴﺎﻓﺔ ﻳ ْﻮم ﺑ ْﻌ َﺪ »دﻧﻘﺎش«‪.‬‬ ‫ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻛﺎ َن ِﻏﺸﺎءُ ﻳ ْﻮ ِم اﻹﺛﻨ ْين‪ ،‬ﺗَ َﺰ ﱠو ْدﻧﺎ المﺎءَ — ِﻟﻴ ْﻮ ٍم و َﻟﻴْ َﻠ ٍﺔ — ورﻓﻌﻨﺎ إﱃ ﻣﺎءِ »ﺷﺎ ِﻏ ٍﺐ«‪،‬‬ ‫َﻓ َﻮ َر ْدﻧﺎ ُه‪ .‬وﻫﺬا المﺎ ُء ِﺛ َﻤﺎ ٌد )ﻗﻠﻴ ٌﻞ( واﻟﻨﱠﺎ ُس ﻳَ ْﺤ ِﻔ ُﺮو َن ﻋﻠﻴ ِﻪ ﰲ اﻷَ ْر ِض‪َ ،‬ﻓﺘَ ْﺴ َﻤ ُﺢ اﻷَ ْر ُض ﺑ ِﻪ‬ ‫ﻗﺮﻳﺒًﺎ ﻏي َر ﺑَﻌﻴ ِﺪ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ُ (14‬ﻣ ْﻠﺘَ َﻘﻰ اﻟﻘﻮا ِﻓ ِﻞ‬ ‫ﺛُ ﱠﻢ رﺣ ْﻠﻨَﺎ ﰲ وﻗﺖ اﻟ ﱠﺴ َﺤ ِﺮ ﻣﻦ ﻳَ ْﻮ ِم ا ْﻟ َﺨ ِﻤﻴ ِﺲ — ﺑ ْﻌ َﺪ أَن ﺗ َﺰ ﱠو ْدﻧﺎ ا ْﻟﻤﺎ َء — ﻓ َﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻛﺎ َن َﺿ ْﺤ َﻮ ُة‬ ‫ﻳَ ْﻮ ِم اﻷَ َﺣ ِﺪ ﻧ َﺰ ْﻟﻨﺎ ﺑ»أَ ْﻣﺘﺎ َن«‬ ‫وﰲ ﻫﺬا ا ْﻟﻴ ْﻮ ِم ﻛﺎ َن َﻓﺮا ُﻏﻨﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﺣ ْﻔ ِﻆ ِﻛﺘﺎ ِب ِﷲ‪َ ،‬ﻋ ﱠﺰ و َﺟ ﱠﻞ‪ ،‬ﻟ ُﻪ ا ْﻟ َﺤ ْﻤ ُﺪ و َﻟ ُﻪ اﻟ ﱡﺸ ْﻜ ُﺮ َﻋ َﲆ‬ ‫ﻣﺎ ﻳَ ﱠﴪ َﻟﻨﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ ذ ِﻟ َﻚ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻗﺪ َو َر ْدﻧَﺎ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺎءَ ﺑ »أَ ْﻣﺘﺎ َن« ِﰲ ِﺑ ٍﱤ ﻣ ِﻌﻴﻨَ ٍﺔ‪َ ،‬ﻗ ْﺪ َﺧ ﱠﺼﻬﺎ ﷲُ ِﺑﺎ ْﻟ َﱪﻛ ِﺔ‪َ ،‬و ُﻫ َﻮ أَ ْﻃﻴَ ُﺐ ِﻣﻴﺎه‬ ‫اﻟ ﱠﻄﺮﻳ ِﻖ وأَ ْﻋ َﺬﺑُﻬﺎ‪َ .‬ﻓﻴُ ْﻠ ِﻘﻲ ﻛ ﱡﻞ وار ٍد َد ْﻟ َﻮ ُه‪ ،‬وﺗﻠﺘَﻘﻲ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ِدﻻ ُؤ ُﻫﻢ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻻ ﺗُﺤﴡ‪َ ،‬ﻓ َ ْﱰ َوى‬ ‫ا ْﻟﻘﻮا ِﻓ ُﻞ اﻟﻨﱠﺎ ِز َﻟ ُﺔ َﻋﻠﻴْﻬﺎ — َﻋ َﲆ َﻛﺜْ َﺮ ِﺗﻬﺎ — وﺗَ ْﺮ َوى َﺟﻤﺎﻋﺎ ٌت َﻛ ِﺜيرة ﻣﻦ اﻹ ِﺑﻞ‪ ،‬ﻟﻮ َو َر َد ْت ﻧَ ْﻬ ًﺮا‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻷَﻧْﻬﺎ ِر ﻷَﻧْ َﻀﺒَﺘْ ُﻪ وأَﻧْ َﺰ َﻓﺘْ ُﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻗﺪ أَردﻧﺎ أن ﻧُ ْﺤ ِ َﴢ ا ْﻟ َﻘﻮا ِﻓ َﻞ ا ْﻟﻮا ِر َد َة واﻟ ﱠﺼﺎ ِدر َة — ﰲ ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱠﻄﺮﻳﻖ — ﻓﻤﺎ ﺗَ َﻤ ﱠﻜ َﻦ‬ ‫َﻟﻨﺎ‪ ،‬وﻻ ِﺳﻴﱠﻤﺎ اﻟ َﻘﻮا ِﻓ َﻞ اﻟ َﻌﻴْﺬَاﺑﻴﱠ َﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗ ْﺤ ِﻤ ُﻞ ِﺳ َﻠ َﻊ »اﻟﻬﻨﺪ« وﺑ َﻀﺎ ِﺋ َﻌﻬﺎ ا ْﻟﻮا ِﺻ َﻠ َﺔ إِﱃ »ا ْﻟﻴَ َﻤ ِﻦ«‬ ‫ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ِﻣ َﻦ »ا ْﻟﻴَ َﻤ ِﻦ« إِﱃ » َﻋﻴْﺬاب«‬ ‫‪36‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫﺮة إﱃ َﻋﻴﺬا ْب‬ ‫وأَ ْﻛﺜَ ُﺮ ﻣﺎ ﺷﺎ َﻫ ْﺪﻧﺎ ِﻣﻦ ذﻟﻚ أَ ْﺣﻤﺎ ُل ا ْﻟ ُﻔ ْﻠ ُﻔ ِﻞ‪َ ،‬ﻓ َﻠ َﻘ ْﺪ ُﺧﻴﱢ َﻞ إِ َﻟﻴْﻨﺎ — ِﻟ َﻜﺜْ َﺮﺗ ِﻪ — أَﻧﱠ ُﻪ ﻳُﻮا ِزي‬ ‫اﻟ ﱡﱰا َب ِﻗﻴﻤ ًﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻗﺪ ُﻛﻨﱠﺎ ﻧَ ِﺴيرُ ِﺑﻘﺎ ِر َﻋ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠﻄﺮﻳﻖ — ﰲ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟ ﱠﺼ ْﺤﺮا ِء — َﻓﻨَﺮى أَ ْﺣﻤﺎ َل اﻟ ُﻔ ْﻠ ُﻔﻞ واﻟ ِﻘ ْﺮﻓ ِﺔ‬ ‫و َﻏ ْي ِرﻫﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﻀﺎ ِﺋ ِﻊ واﻟ ﱢﺴ َﻠ ِﻊ‪َ ،‬ﻣ ْﻄ ُﺮو َﺣ ًﺔ — ﻻ ﺣﺎ ِر َس ﻟﻬﺎ — وﻗﺪ ﺗُ ِﺮ َﻛ ْﺖ ﰲ ُﻋ ْﺮ ِض اﻟ ﱠﻄﺮﻳ ِﻖ‪،‬‬ ‫إِ ﱠﻣﺎ ِﻹ ْﻋﻴﺎ ِء ا ِﻹ ِﺑ ِﻞ ا ْﻟﺤﺎ ِﻣ َﻠ ِﺔ ﻟﻬﺎ أَ ْو ﻏي ِر ذﻟﻚ ﻣﻦ اﻷَ ْﻋﺬا ِر‪ .‬وﺗﺒﻘﻰ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻷَ ْﺣ َﻤﺎ ُل ِﺑ َﻤ ْﻮ ِﺿﻌﻬﺎ‪ ،‬إﱃ أَ ْن‬ ‫ﻳَﻨْ ُﻘﻠﻬﺎ ﺻﺎ ِﺣﺒُﻬﺎ َﻣ ُﺼﻮﻧَ ًﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻵﻓﺎ ِت‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﲆ َﻛﺜْ َﺮة المﺎ ﱢرﻳ َﻦ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ ُﻣﺨﺘَ ِﻠﻒ اﻟﻨﱠﺎ ِس‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (15‬ﻃﺮﻳﻖ اﻟ َﻮ َﺿ ِﺢ‬ ‫ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ﻛﺎ َن َر ْﻓ ُﻌﻨﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ »أَ ْﻣﺘَﺎ َن« َﺻ ِﺒﻴﺤ َﺔ ﻳَ ْﻮ ِم اﻹﺛْﻨَين‪ ،‬وﻧ َﺰ ْﻟﻨﺎ ﻋﲆ ﻣﺎ ٍء ِﺑ َﻤ ْﻮ ِﺿ ٍﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ِﺑﺎ ْﺳ ِﻢ‬ ‫» ُﻣﺠﺎ ٍج« ِﺑ َﻤ ْﻘ َﺮﺑَﺔ ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱠﻄﺮﻳ ِﻖ‪ُ ،‬ﻇ ْﻬ َﺮ ﻳ ْﻮ ِم اﻻﺛْﻨَ ْي ِن‪ ،‬و ِﻣﻨْ ُﻪ ﺗَ َﺰ ﱠو ْدﻧﺎ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺎ َء ﻷَ ْرﺑَ َﻌ ِﺔ أَﻳﱠﺎم — إِ َﱃ َﻣﺎءٍ‬ ‫ِﺑﻤ ْﻮ ِﺿ ٍﻊ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑﺎ ْﺳﻢ »ا ْﻟ َﻌ َﴩا ِء«‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﲆ ﻣﺴﺎ َﻓﺔ ﻳَ ْﻮ ٍم ِﻣ ْﻦ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب«‪.‬‬ ‫و ِﻣ ْﻦ ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱢﺮ ْﺣ َﻠ ِﺔ ال ُم َﺠﺎ ِﺟﻴﱠ ِﺔ ﻳُ ْﺴ َﻠ ُﻚ ا ْﻟ َﻮ َﺿ ُﺢ‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ ر ْﻣ َﻠ ٌﺔ َﺳ ْﻬ َﻠ ٌﺔ ﺗَﺘﱠ ِﺼﻞ ﺑﺴﺎ ِﺣ ِﻞ ﺑَ ْﺤﺮ‬ ‫» ُﺟ ﱠﺪ َة« وﺗُ َﻮ ﱢﺻ ُﻞ إِ َﱃ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب«‪َ ،‬ﺣﻴْ ُﺚ ﻳ ْﻤﴙ ال ُم َﺴﺎ ِﻓ ُﺮ ﰲ أَرض َﻓ ِﺴﻴ َﺤ ِﺔ اﻷَرﺟﺎ ِء‪ ،‬ﻳَ ْﻤﺘَ ﱡﺪ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ا ْﻟﺒَﴫ ﻳَ ِﻤﻴﻨًﺎ و ِﺷ َﻤﺎ ًﻻ‪.‬‬ ‫وﰲ ُﻇﻬﺮ اﻟﺜﱡﻼﺛَﺎ ِء ﻛﺎ َن َر ْﻓ ُﻌﻨﺎ ِﻣ ْﻦ » ُﻣﺠﺎ ٍج«‪ ،‬ﺳﺎﻟﻜين َﻋﲆ ا ْﻟ َﻮ َﺿ ِﺢ‪ .‬و َﻗﺪ اﺳﺘﻬ ﱠﻞ ﻫﻼ ُل‬ ‫َرﺑﻴﻊ اﻷَ ﱠول ﻟﻴﻠ َﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﻌﺔ‪ ،‬وﻧﺤﻦ ﺑﺂ ِﺧﺮ ا ْﻟ َﻮ َﺿﺢ‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﲆ ﻧ ْﺤﻮ ﺛَﻼ ِث َﻣﺮا ِﺣ َﻞ ﻣﻦ » َﻋﻴْﺬَاب«‪.‬‬ ‫وﰲ وﻗﺖ اﻟﻐﺪاة ِﻣﻦ ﻳﻮم ا ْﻟ ُﺠ ُﻤ َﻌ ِﺔ‪ ،‬ﻛﺎن ﻧُﺰوﻟُﻨﺎ َﻋ َﲆ ا ْﻟﻤﺎ ِء ﺑ َﻤ ْﻮ ِﺿ ِﻊ »ا ْﻟ ُﻌ َ َﴩاءِ«‪َ ،‬ﻋ َﲆ‬ ‫َﻣ ْﺮ َﺣ َﻠﺘَ ْي ِن ِﻣ ْﻦ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب«‪.‬‬ ‫َوﻣﺎ ُء ﻫﺬا ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﻮ ِﺿﻊ َﻟﻴْ َﺲ ِﺑ َﺨﺎ ِﻟﺺ ا ْﻟ ُﻌﺬُوﺑَ ِﺔ‪ .‬و ُﻫ َﻮ ِﰲ ِﺑ ْ ٍﱤ َﻏ ْي ِر َﻣ ْﻄ ِﻮﻳﱠﺔ ) َﻏ ْي ِر َﻣﺒْﻨِﻴﱠ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺪا ِﺧﻞ(‪.‬‬ ‫وأَ ْﻟ َﻔﻴْﻨَﺎ اﻟ ﱠﺮ ْﻣ َﻞ ﻗﺪ اﻧْﻬﺎ َل ﻋﻠ ِﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻏ ﱠﻄﻰ ﻣﺎءَﻫﺎ‪ .‬ﻓﺮا َم ا ْﻟ َﺠ ﱠﻤﺎﻟُﻮ َن َﺣ ْﻔ َﺮﻫﺎ وا ْﺳ ِﺘ ْﺨﺮاج‬ ‫ﻣﺎ ِﺋﻬﺎ‪َ ،‬ﻓ َﻠ ْﻢ ﻳَ ْﻘ ِﺪ ُروا َﻋ َﲆ ذ ِﻟ َﻚ‪َ ،‬وﺑَ ِﻘﻴَ ِﺖ ا ْﻟ َﻘﺎ ِﻓ َﻠ ُﺔ ﻻ ﻣﺎ َء ِﻋﻨْ َﺪﻫﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻓﺄَ ْ َﴎﻳْﻨَﺎ ِﺗ ْﻠ َﻚ اﻟﻠﻴْ َﻠ َﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﻨَ َﺰ ْﻟﻨَﺎ — َﺿ ْﺤ َﻮ ًة — َﻋ َﲆ ﻣﺎءٍ َﻗ ِﺮﻳ ِﺐ ِﻣ ْﻦ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب«‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ ِﺑ َﻤ ْﺮأَى‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﻌ ْي ِن ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﺗَ ْﺴﺘَ ِﻘﻲ ِﻣﻨْ ُﻪ ا ْﻟ َﻘﻮا ِﻓ ُﻞ وأَ ْﻫ ُﻞ ا ْﻟﺒَ َﻠ ِﺪ‪ ،‬وﻳَ ُﻌ ﱡﻢ ا ْﻟ َﺠ ِﻤﻴ َﻊ‪َ ،‬وﻫﻮ ِﺑ ْﱤٌ َﻛ ِﺒيرَ ٌة‪.‬‬ ‫‪37‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪ (16‬ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب«‬ ‫ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻛﺎن َﻋ ِ ﱡﴚ ﻳَ ْﻮ ِم اﻟ ﱠﺴﺒْ ِﺖ دﺧﻠﻨﺎ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب«‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﻨ ٌﺔ ﻋﲆ ﺳﺎ ِﺣ ِﻞ ﺑَ ْﺤ ِﺮ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة«‪َ ،‬ﻏ ْيرُ‬ ‫ُﻣ َﺴ ﱠﻮر ٍة‪ ،‬أَﻛﺜ ُﺮ ﺑﻴﻮﺗِﻬﺎ اﻷَ ْﺧﺼﺎ ُص‪ ،‬وﻓﻴﻬﺎ اﻵن ﺑﻨﺎءٌ ُﻣ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺤ َﺪ ٌث ﺑﺎ ْﻟ ِﺠ ﱢﺺ‪َ .‬وﻫ َﻲ ﻣﻦ أَ ْﺣ َﻔ ِﻞ‬ ‫َﻣﺮا ِﳼ اﻟ ﱡﺪﻧْﻴﺎ‪ ،‬ﻷَ ﱠن ﻣﺮا ِﻛ َﺐ اﻟﻬﻨ ِﺪ وا ْﻟﻴَ َﻤ ِﻦ ﺗَ ُﺤ ﱡﻂ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﺗُ ْﻘ ِﻠﻊ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ‪َ ،‬زا ِﺋ ًﺪا إِﱃ َﻣﺮاﻛﺐ اﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج‬ ‫اﻟﺼﺎدر ِة واﻟﻮارد ِة‪ .‬وﻫﻲ ﰲ َﺻﺤﺮا َء ﻻ ﻧَﺒﺎ َت ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻻ ﻳُﺆﻛ ُﻞ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ْﳾءٌ إِﻻﱠ َﻣ ْﺠﻠُﻮ ٌب ﻳَﺠﻴﺌﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﻼ ِد اﻷُﺧﺮى‪.‬‬ ‫ﻟ ِﻜ ﱠﻦ أَﻫ َﻠﻬﺎ — ِﺑ َﺴﺒَ ِﺐ ا ْﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎج — ﺗ ْﺤ َﺖ َﻣ ْﺮﻓ ٍﻖ ﻛﺜي ٍر‪ ،‬وﰲ َﺧ ْي ٍر ﻋﻤﻴ ٍﻢ‪ ،‬ﻷَ ﱠن ﻟﻬﻢ —‬ ‫ﻋﲆ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ِﺣ ْﻤﻞ َﻃﻌﺎ ٍم ﻳَ ْﺠﻠُﺒﻮﻧَ ُﻪ — ﴐﻳﺒ ًﺔ ﻣﻌﻠﻮﻣ ًﺔ ﺧﻔﻴ َﻔ َﺔ ال ُم ْﺆﻧَ ِﺔ‪ ،‬إِذا ﻗﻴ َﺴ ْﺖ إﱃ اﻟﻮﻇﺎ ِﺋ ِﻒ‬ ‫ال ُم ُﻜﻮﺳﻴﱠ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﻮا ﻳﺘﻘﺎ َﺿ ْﻮﻧَﻬﺎ ﻗﺒ َﻞ اﻟﻴ ْﻮ ِم‪.‬‬ ‫وﻗﺪ ذﻛﺮﻧﺎ أَن » َﺻﻼ َح اﻟﺪﻳﻦ« ﻗﺪ أَزاﻟﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻟﻬﻢ أَﻳ ًﻀﺎ ﻣﻦ ال َمﺮا ِﻓ ِﻖ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺤﺎ ﱢج إِﻛﺮا ُء‬ ‫ا ْﻟ ِﺠﻼَ ِب ﻣﻨﻬﻢ )أَﺟ ُﺮ ال َمﺮاﻛﺐ(‪َ ،‬ﻓﻴَ ْﺠﺘَ ِﻤ ُﻊ ﻟﻬﻢ ِﻣ ْﻦ ذﻟﻚ ﻣﺎ ٌل ﻛﺜيرٌ ﻳﺘﻘﺎ َﺿﻮﻧَ ُﻪ ﻣﻦ ﺣ ْﻤﻞ اﻟﺤ ﱠﺠﺎج‬ ‫إِﱃ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪ َة« و َر ﱢد ِﻫ ْﻢ إِﱃ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب« وﻗ َﺖ اﻧ ِﻔﻀﺎ ِﺿ ِﻬ ْﻢ ﻣﻦ أَداءِ ا ْﻟ َﻔ ِﺮﻳ َﻀ ِﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (17‬ﰲ دا ِر اﻟ َﺤﺒَ ِ ﱢﴚ‬ ‫و َﻟ ْﺴ َﺖ ﺗَﺮى أَﺣ ًﺪا ِﻣ ْﻦ أَﻫﻠﻬﺎ َذ ِوي ا ْﻟﻴَ َﺴﺎر واﻟ ِﻐﻨﻰ إِﻻﱠ َﻣ ْﻦ ﻟ ُﻪ ا ْﻟ َﺠ َﻠﺒَ ُﺔ وا ْﻟ َﺠ َﻠﺒﺘﺎن )الم ْﺮ َﻛﺐ‬ ‫وال َمﺮ َﻛﺒَﺎ ِن(‪ .‬ﻓﻬﻲ ﺗﻌﻮد ﻋﻠﻴﻬﻢ ﺑﺮزق وا ِﺳ ٍﻊ‪ُ .‬ﺳﺒْ َﺤﺎ َن ﻗﺎ ِﺳ ِﻢ اﻷَرزا ِق ﻋﲆ ا ْﺧ ِﺘﻼ ِف أَﺳﺒﺎﺑﻬﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻻ إِﻟﻪ ِﺳﻮا ُه‪.‬‬ ‫وﻛﺎن ﻧُ ُﺰوﻟُﻨﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ِﺑ َﺪا ٍر ﺗُﻨْ َﺴ ُﺐ إِﱃ » َﻣﻮﻧَﺢ« أَ َﺣ ِﺪ ُﻗ ﱠﻮا ِدﻫﺎ ا ْﻟ َﺤﺒَ ِﺸﻴﱢي َن اﻟﺬﻳ َﻦ ﺑَﻨَ ْﻮا ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ال َمﻨﺎز َل وﺗﺄَﺛﱠﻠُﻮا ﺑﻬﺎ )اﻛﺘَ َﺴﺒُﻮا وأَ ﱠﺳ ُﺴﻮا( اﻟ ﱢﺪا َر واﻟ ﱢﺮﺑﺎ َع وا ْﻟ ِﺠﻼ َب‪.‬‬ ‫‪38‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺎ ِﻫﺮة إﱃ َﻋﻴﺬا ْب‬ ‫)‪ (18‬ﻣﻐﺎ ُص اﻟﻠ ْﺆﻟﺆ‬ ‫وﰲ ﺑَﺤ ِﺮ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب« َﻣ َﻐﺎ ٌص َﻋ َﲆ اﻟ ﱡﻠ ْﺆﻟُﺆ ﰲ ﺟﺰاﺋﺮ ﻋﲆ ﻣﻘ َﺮﺑﺔ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ‪ .‬وأَوا ُن ا ْﻟ َﻐ ْﻮ ِص ﻋﻠﻴ ِﻪ ﰲ‬ ‫ﻫﺬا اﻟﺘﺎرﻳ ِﺦ اﻟﺬي أُ َﻗﻴﱢ ُﺪ ﻓﻴﻪ ﻫﺬه اﻷَ ْﺣ ُﺮ َف — وﻫﻮ َﺷ ْﻬ ُﺮ ﻳﻮﻧْﻴُﻮ ا ْﻟﻌﺠﻤﻲ — واﻟ ﱠﺸ ْﻬ ُﺮ اﻟﺬي‬ ‫ﻳَﺘْﻠُﻮ ُه‪.‬‬ ‫وﻳُ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺨ َﺮ ُج ﻣﻨ ُﻪ َﺟ ْﻮ َﻫ ٌﺮ ﻧَ ِﻔﻴ ٌﺲ‪ ،‬ﻟ ُﻪ ِﻗﻴﻤ ٌﺔ َﺳ ِﻨﻴّ ٌﺔ‪ ،‬ﻳَ ْﺬ َﻫ ُﺐ اﻟﻐﺎ ِﺋﺼﻮ َن ﻋﻠﻴ ِﻪ إِﱃ ﺗﻠﻚ ا ْﻟ َﺠﺰا ِﺋ ِﺮ‬ ‫ﰲ اﻟ ﱠﺰوا ِرﻳ ِﻖ‪ ،‬وﻳﻘﻴﻤﻮ َن ﻓﻴﻬﺎ اﻷَﻳﱠﺎ َم‪َ ،‬ﻓﻴَ ُﻌﻮدو َن ﺑﻤﺎ َﻗ َﺴ َﻢ ﷲُ ِﻟ ُﻜ ﱢﻞ وا ِﺣﺪ ﻣﻨﻬﻢ ِﺑ َﺤ َﺴ ِﺐ َﺣ ﱢﻈ ِﻪ‬ ‫ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱢﺮ ْز ِق‪ .‬وا ْﻟ َﻤﻐﺎ ُص ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻗﺮﻳ ُﺐ اﻟ َﻘﺎ ِع‪ ،‬ﻟﻴ َﺲ ﺑﺒﻌﻴ ٍﺪ‪َ .‬وﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺨ ِﺮ ُﺟﻮﻧَ ُﻪ ﰲ أَ ْﺻﺪا ٍف ﻟﻬﺎ أَ ْروا ٌح‬ ‫— َﻛﺄَﻧﱠﻬﺎ ﻧَ ْﻮ ٌع ﻣ َﻦ ا ْﻟ ِﺤﻴﺘﺎ ِن — و ِﻫ َﻲ أَ ْﺷﺒَ ُﻪ َ ْﳾ ٍء ِﺑﺎﻟ ﱡﺴ َﻠ ْﺤﻔﺎ ِة‪ .‬ﻓ ِﺈذا ُﺷ ﱠﻘ ْﺖ َﻇ َﻬ َﺮ ِت اﻟ ﱠﺸﻔﺘﺎ ِن‬ ‫— ِﻣﻦ داﺧﻠﻬﺎ — ﻛﺄَﻧﱠ ُﻬﻤﺎ َﻣﺤﺎرﺗَﺎ َﻓ ﱠﻀ ٍﺔ‪ .‬ﺛ ﱠﻢ ﻳَ ُﺸ ﱡﻘﻮن ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ َﻓﻴَ ِﺠ ُﺪو َن ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ا ْﻟ َﺤﺒﱠ َﺔ — ﻣ َﻦ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﺠ ْﻮ َﻫ ِﺮ — ﻗﺪ َﻏ ﱠﻄﻰ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ َﻟ ْﺤ ُﻢ اﻟ ﱠﺼ َﺪ ِف‪َ .‬ﻓﻴَ ْﺠﺘ ِﻤ ُﻊ ﻟﻬ ُﻢ ﻣﻦ ذﻟﻚ ِﺑ َﺤ َﺴ ِﺐ ا ْﻟ ُﺤ ُﻈﻮ ِظ واﻷَ ْر َزا ِق‪.‬‬ ‫َﻓ ُﺴﺒْﺤﺎ َن ُﻣ َﻘ ﱢﺪ ِرﻫﺎ ﻻ إِﻟﻪ ِﺳﻮا ُه‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ُ (19‬ﺳﻜﺎ ُن اﻟ ِﺠﺒﺎ ِل‬ ‫ﻟ ِﻜﻨﱠ ُﻬ ْﻢ ِﺑﺒ ْﻠ َﺪ ٍة ﻻ ر ْﻃ َﺐ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ وﻻ ﻳﺎ ِﺑﺲ‪ ،‬ﻗﺪ أَ ِﻟ ُﻔﻮا ﺑﻬﺎ َﻋﻴْ َﺶ اﻟﺒَﻬﺎ ِﺋ ِﻢ‪َ .‬ﻓ ُﺴﺒﺤﺎ َن ِﷲ ال ُم َﺤﺒﱢ ِﺐ‬ ‫اﻷَ ْوﻃﺎ َن إِﱃ أَ ْﻫ ِﻠﻬﺎ!‬ ‫ﻋﲆ أَﻧﱠﻬﻢ أَ ْﻗﺮ ُب إِﱃ ا ْﻟﻮ ْﺣ ِﺶ ﻣﻨﻬﻢ إﱃ ا ِﻹﻧْ َﺴﺎ ِن‪.‬‬ ‫‪39‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫واﻟ ﱡﺮﻛﻮ ُب ﻣﻦ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪ َة« إِﻟﻴﻬﺎ آﻓ ٌﺔ ِﻟ ْﻠ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج ﻋﻈﻴﻤ ٌﺔ‪ ،‬إِﻻﱠ اﻷَﻗ ﱠﻞ ﻣﻨﻬﻢ‪ِ ،‬ﻣ ﱠﻤ ْﻦ ﻳُ َﺴ ﱢﻠ ُﻢ ﷲُ َﻋ ﱠﺰ‬ ‫و َﺟ ﱠﻞ‪ .‬وذﻟﻚ أَ ﱠن اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳﺎ َح ﺗُ ْﻠ ِﻘﻴﻬ ْﻢ — ﻋﲆ اﻷَ ْﻛﺜَﺮ — ﰲ ﻣﺮا ٍس ِﺑ َﺼﺤﺎري ﺗَﺒْ ُﻌ ُﺪ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﻤﺎ ﻳﲇ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﺠﻨُﻮ َب‪ .‬ﻓﻴﻨْ ِﺰ ُل إِﻟﻴﻬﻢ اﻟﺒُﺠﺎ ُة — وﻫﻢ ﻧ ْﻮ ٌع ﻣﻦ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻮدا ِن ﺳﺎ ِﻛﻨُﻮ َن ﺑﺎ ْﻟ ِﺠﺒَﺎ ِل — َﻓﻴُ ْﻜ ُﺮو َن‬ ‫ﻣﻨﻬﻢ اﻟﺠﻤﺎ َل‪ ،‬ﺛ ﱠﻢ ﻳَ ْﺴﻠُﻚ ﺑﻬﻢ اﻟﺒُﺠﺎ ُة ﻏي َر ﻃﺮﻳ ِﻖ المﺎ ِء‪َ .‬ﻓ ُﺮﺑ َﻤﺎ ذﻫﺐ أَ ْﻛﺜَ ُﺮ ُﻫ ْﻢ َﻋ َﻄ ًﺸﺎ وﺣﺼﻞ‬ ‫ا ْﻟﺒُﺠﺎ ُة َﻋ َﲆ ﻣﺎ ﺗَ َﺨﻠ َﻒ ﻣ ْﻦ ﻧَ َﻔ َﻘ ٍﺔ أَ ْو ِﺳﻮاﻫﺎ‪ .‬و ُرﺑﻤﺎ ﻛﺎن ﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج َﻣ ْﻦ ﻳﺘَ َﻌ ﱠﺴ ُﻒ ﺗﻠﻚ‬ ‫اﻟﺼﺤﺮاءَ َﻋ َﲆ َﻗ َﺪ َﻣﻴْ ِﻪ‪ ،‬وﻳﻤﴚ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻋﲆ ﻏير ُﻫ ًﺪى‪َ ،‬ﻓﻴَ ِﻀ ﱡﻞ وﻳَ ْﻬ ِﻠ ُﻚ َﻋ َﻄ ًﺸﺎ‪ .‬واﻟﺬي ﻳ ْﺴ َﻠ ُﻢ ﻣﻨﻬﻢ‬ ‫ﻳﺼ ُﻞ إِﱃ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب« ﻛﺄَﻧﱠ ُﻪ َﻣﻴﱢ ٌﺖ ﻗﺪ ﻋﺎ َد إِﱃ اﻟﺤﻴﺎ ِة و َﻫ ُﻮ ُﻣﻨَ ﱠ ٌﴩ ﻣﻦ َﻛ َﻔﻦ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻗﺪ ﺷﺎ َﻫ ْﺪﻧﺎ ﻣﻨﻬ ْﻢ — ُﻣ ﱠﺪ َة ُﻣﻘﺎ ِﻣﻨﺎ — أَ ْﻗﻮا ًﻣﺎ ﻗﺪ َوﺻﻠﻮا َﻋ َﲆ ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱢﺼ َﻔ ِﺔ‪ .‬ﰲ َﻣﻨﺎ ِﻇ ِﺮ ِﻫﻢ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱠﺸﺎ ِﺣﺒَ ِﺔ ال ُم ْﺴﺘ ِﺤﻴ َﻠ ِﺔ و َﻫﻴْﺌَﺎﺗ ِﻬ ُﻢ ا ْﻟ ُﻤﺘ َﻐ ﱢيرة‪ ،‬آﻳ ٌﺔ ِﻟ ْﻠ ُﻤﺘَﻮ ﱢﺳﻤي َن‪َ ،‬و ِﻋ ْﱪَ ٌة ﻟﻠﻨﱠﺎ ِﻇﺮﻳ َﻦ‪.‬‬ ‫وأَ ْﻛﺜَﺮ َﻫﻼَ ِك ا ْﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج ِﺑﻬﺬ ِه ال َمﺮا ِﳼ‪ ،‬وﻣﻨﻬﻢ ﻣ ْﻦ ﺗُ َﺴﺎ ِﻋ ُﺪ ُه اﻟﺮﻳ ُﺢ إِﱃ أَ ْن ﻳَ ُﺤ ﱠﻂ ﺑ ُﻤ ْﺮ َﳻ » َﻋﻴْ َﺬاب«‬ ‫َو ُﻫ َﻮ اﻷَ َﻗ ﱡﻞ‪.‬‬ ‫‪40‬‬

‫اﻟﻔﺼﻞ اﻟﺮاﺑﻊ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ َﻋﻴﺬاب إﱃ ُﺟ ّﺪة‬ ‫)‪ُ (1‬ﺳ ُﻔ ُﻦ اﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎج‬ ‫وال َمﺮا ِﻛ ُﺐ — اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳُ َ ﱢﴫﻓﻮﻧﻬﺎ ﰲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺒ ِﺤ ِﺮ اﻟ ِﻔ ْﺮ َﻋ ْﻮ ِﻧ ﱢﻲ — ُﻣ َﻠ ﱠﻔ َﻘ ُﺔ ) ُﻣﺘَﻀﺎ ﱠﻣ ُﺔ( ا ِﻹﻧﺸﺎ ِء‬ ‫واﻟ ﱠ ْﱰ ِﻛﻴ ِﺐ‪ ،‬ﻻ ﻳُ ْﺴﺘﻌﻤ ُﻞ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ِﻣ ْﺴﻤﺎ ٌر ا ْﻟﺒَﺘﱠ َﺔ‪ ،‬إِﻧﻤﺎ ﻫﻲ َﻣ ِﺨﻴﻄ ٌﺔ ِﺑﺄَﻣﺮاس ﻣﻦ اﻟ ِﻘﻨْﺒﺎ ِر ﱢى‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ‬ ‫ِﻗ ْ ُﴩ َﺟ ْﻮز اﻟﻨﱠﺎ َرﺟﻴﻞ )ا ْﻟ َﺠ ْﻮ ِز اﻟﻬﻨْ ِﺪ ﱢي(‪َ .‬و ُﻫ ْﻢ ﻳَ ْﺪ ُرﺳﻮﻧ ُﻪ إِﱃ أَن ﻳُ ْﺼ ِﺒﺢ ُﺧﻴﻮ ًﻃﺎ‪ ،‬وﺛَ ﱠﻢ ﻳَ ْﻔ ِﺘﻠﻮن‬ ‫ﻣﻨ ُﻪ أَ ْﻣﺮا ًﺳﺎ )ﺣﺒﺎ ًﻻ( ﻳَﺨﻴﻄﻮن ﺑﻬﺎ ال َمﺮا ِﻛ َﺐ‪ ،‬وﻳﻀﻌﻮن ﰲ ﺧﻼﻟﻬﺎ ِﻗ َﻄ ًﻌﺎ ﻣ ْﻦ ِﻋﻴﺪان اﻟﻨﺨﻞ‪،‬‬ ‫ﺑَﺪﻻ ﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ َﻤ َﺴﺎ ِﻣي ِر‪ .‬ﻓ ِﺈذا َﻓ َﺮﻏﻮا ﻣ ْﻦ إِﻧﺸﺎ ِء ال َم ْﺮ َﻛ ِﺐ َﻋ َﲆ ﻫﺬه اﻟ ﱢﺼ َﻔ ِﺔ‪ ،‬ﺳ َﻘ ْﻮﻫﺎ ﺑﺎﻟ ﱠﺴ ْﻤ ِﻦ‪ ،‬أَ ْو‬ ‫ﺑ ُﺪ ْﻫ ِﻦ ا ْﻟ ِﺨ ْﺮ َو ِع‪ ،‬أَ ْو ِﺑ ُﺪ ْﻫ ِﻦ اﻟ ِﻘ ْﺮش‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ أَ ْﺣ َﺴﻨُﻬﺎ‪ .‬وﻫﺬا اﻟ ِﻘ ْﺮ ُش ُﺣﻮ ٌت َﻋﻈﻴ ٌﻢ ﰲ اﻟﺒ ْﺤ ِﺮ‪ ،‬ﻳَﺒْﺘَ ِﻠ ُﻊ‬ ‫اﻟ َﻐ ْﺮ َﻗﻰ‪ .‬وإِﻧﻤﺎ ﻳ ْﺪ ُﻫﻨﻮن ال َم ْﺮ َﻛ َﺐ ﺑ ُﺪﻫﻦ اﻟ ِﻘ ْﺮ ِش ِﻟﻴَﻠي َن ﻋﻮ ُده وﻳَ ْﺮ ُﻃ َﺐ — ﻟ َﻜﺜْ َﺮة اﻟ ﱢﺸﻌﺎب اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﺗَ ْﻌ َ ِﱰ ُض ال َمﺮا ِﻛ َﺐ ﰲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺒَ ْﺤﺮ — وﻟﺬﻟﻚ ﻻ ﻳُ َ ﱢﴫﻓﻮن ﻓﻴ ِﻪ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺮ َﻛ َﺐ الِم ْﺴﻤﺎ ِر ﱠي‪.‬‬ ‫و ُﻋﻮ ُد ﻫﺬه ال َمﺮا ِﻛﺐ َﻣ ْﺠﻠﻮ ٌب ﻣ َﻦ اﻟﻬﻨْ ِﺪ واﻟﻴَ َﻤﻦ‪ ،‬وﻛﺬﻟﻚ ا ْﻟ ِﻘﻨْﺒﺎ ِر ﱡي اﻟﺬي ذ َﻛ ْﺮﻧﺎ ُه آﻧ ًﻔﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻣﻦ أَ ْﻋ َﺠ ِﺐ أَ ْﻣ ِﺮ ﻫﺬه ال َمﺮا ِﻛﺐ أَ ﱠن ُ ُﴍ َﻋﻬﺎ ﻣﻨْﺴﻮﺟ ٌﺔ ﻣﻦ ُﺧﻮ ِص َﺷ َﺠﺮ ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ْﻘ ِﻞ‪َ .‬ﻓ َﻤ ْﺠﻤﻮع ﻣﺎ‬ ‫ﰲ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟ ﱡﺴ ُﻔﻦ ُﻣﺘَﻨﺎ ِﺳ ٌﺐ ﰲ اﺧﺘﻼ ِل اﻟ ِﺒﻨْﻴَ ِﺔ و َﺿ ْﻌ ِﻒ اﻟ ﱠﱰْﻛﻴﺐ‪َ ،‬ﻓ ُﺴﺒْ َﺤﺎن ُﻣﺴ ﱢﺨ ِﺮﻫﺎ َﻋ َﲆ ﺗ ْﻠﻚ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺎل‪ ،‬وﺗَﺒَﺎر َك ا ْﻟ ُﻤ َﺴ ﱢﻠ ُﻢ ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻻ إِﻟﻪ ِﺳﻮا ُه‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (2‬ﻃﻤﻊ ال َمﻼﱠﺣين‬ ‫وﻷَ ْﻫ ِﻞ » َﻋﻴْﺬَاب« — ﰲ ا ْﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج — أَ ْﺣ َﻜﺎ ٌم ﺟﺎ ِﺋﺮ ٌة‪ ،‬وذ ِﻟ َﻚ أَﻧﱠ ُﻬ ْﻢ ﻳَ ْﺸ َﺤﻨُﻮ َن ِﺑ ِﻬﻢ اﻟ ِﺠﻼ َب —‬ ‫َو ِﻫﻲ ال َمﺮا ِﻛ ُﺐ — ﺣﺘﱠﻰ ﻳَ ْﺠﻠ َﺲ ﺑَ ْﻌ ُﻀﻬﻢ َﻋ َﲆ ﺑَ ْﻌ ٍﺾ‪ ،‬وﺗَﻌﻮ َد ِﺑ ِﻬﻢ ﻛﺄَﻧﱠﻬﺎ أَ ْﻗ َﻔﺎ ُص اﻟ ﱠﺪﺟﺎ ِج‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﻤﻠﻮءَ ُة‪ .‬ﻳَ ْﺤ ِﻤ ُﻞ أَ ْﻫ َﻠﻬﺎ َﻋ َﲆ ذ ِﻟ َﻚ ا ْﻟ ِﺤ ْﺮ ُص واﻟ ﱠﺮ ْﻏﺒَ ُﺔ ﰲ ا ْﻟ ِﻜﺮا ِء‪َ ،‬ﺣﺘﱠﻰ ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ْﻮ ِﰲَ ﺻﺎ ِﺣ ُﺐ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺮ َﻛ ِﺐ‬ ‫ِﻣﻨْ ُﻬ ْﻢ ﺛَ َﻤﻨَ ُﻪ ِﰲ َﻃ ِﺮﻳﻖ وا ِﺣ َﺪة‪ ،‬وﻻ ﻳُﺒﺎﱄ ِﺑ َﻤﺎ ﻳﺼﻨَ ُﻊ ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ُﺮ ﺑﻬﺎ ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺪ ذ ِﻟ َﻚ‪ .‬وﻳَ ُﻘﻮﻟُﻮ َن‪:‬‬ ‫» َﻋ َﻠﻴْﻨَﺎ ﺑﺎﻷَ ْﻟﻮا ِح‪ ،‬و َﻋ َﲆ اﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج ﺑﺎﻷَ ْر َوا ِح«‪.‬‬ ‫ﻫﺬَا َﻣﺜَ ٌﻞ ُﻣﺘَﻌﺎ َر ٌف ﺑﻴﻨَ ُﻬﻢ‪ ،‬وﻫﺬ ِه ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﻠﺪ ُة ِﻫ َﻲ أَ َﺣ ﱡﻖ ﺑﻼد ﷲ ﺑﺄَن ﻳُ َﻄ ﱢﻬ َﺮ َﻫﺎ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻴْ ُﻒ َوﻳَ ْﻤ ُﺤ َﻮ‬ ‫ﻣﻈﺎﻟ َﻢ أَ ْﻫ ِﻠﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻳُﻨْ ِﻘ َﺬ اﻟﻨﺎ َس ﻣﻦ ﴍورﻫﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ُ (3‬ﺳﺒُﻞ اﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎج‬ ‫واﻷَ ْو َﱃ ِﺑﺎ ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺮءِ أَﻻﱠ ﻳ َﺮاﻫﺎ وأَﻻﱠ ﻳﺬﻫ َﺐ إِﻟﻴْﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وأَ ْن ﻳﻜﻮ َن ﻃﺮﻳ ُﻘ ُﻪ َﻋ َﲆ اﻟﺸﺎ ِم إِﱃ اﻟ ِﻌﺮا ِق‪ ،‬وﻳَ ِﺼ َﻞ‬ ‫ﻣ َﻊ أَﻣير اﻟﺤﺎ ﱢج اﻟﺒَ ْﻐ َﺪا ِد ﱢي‪ .‬وإِ ْن َﻟ ْﻢ ﻳُ ْﻤﻜﻨْ ُﻪ ذﻟ َﻚ أَ ﱠو ًﻻ‪َ ،‬ﻓﻴُﻤﻜﻨُﻪ آ ِﺧ ًﺮا ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ اﻧْ ِﻔ َﻀﺎ ِض اﻟﺤﺎ ﱢج‪،‬‬ ‫ِﻟﻴَﺘَ َﻮ ﱠﺟ َﻪ — ﻣﻊ أَﻣير اﻟﺤﺎ ﱢج ﻫﺬا — إِﱃ »ﺑَ ْﻐ َﺪا َد«‪ ،‬وﻣﻨﻬﺎ إِﱃ » َﻋ ﱠﻜ َﺔ«‪ ،‬ﻓ ِﺈ ْن ﺷﺎ َء َر َﺣ َﻞ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ إِﱃ‬ ‫»ا ِﻹ ْﺳ َﻜﻨْ َﺪ ِرﻳﱠ ِﺔ«‪ ،‬وإِ ْن ﺷﺎ َء إِﱃ » ِﺻ ِﻘ ﱢﻠﻴَ َﺔ« أَ ْو ِﺳﻮا ُﻫﻤﺎ‪ .‬وﻳُ ْﻤ ِﻜ ُﻦ أَ ْن ﻳ ِﺠ َﺪ َﻣ ْﺮﻛﺒًﺎ ﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱡﺮو ِم ﻳُ ْﻘ ِﻠ ُﻊ‬ ‫إِﱃ » َﺳﺒْﺘ َﺔ« أَ ْو ِﺳﻮاﻫﺎ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻼ ِد ال ُم ْﺴﻠﻤي َن‪.‬‬ ‫وإِ ْن ﻃﺎ َل ﻃﺮﻳ ُﻘﻪ َﻓﻴَﻬﻮ ُن ل َمﺎ َﻟ ِﻘ َﻲ ِﺑ َﻤﺪﻳﻨ ِﺔ » َﻋﻴْﺬَاب« وﻧ ْﺤ ِﻮﻫﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ُ (4‬ﺳﻠﻄﺎ ُن اﻟﺒُﺠﺎ ِة‬ ‫وأَ ْﻫﻠُﻬﺎ اﻟﺴﺎﻛﻨﻮن ِﺑ َﻬﺎ ﻣ ْﻦ َﻗﺒﻴ ِﻞ اﻟ ﱡﺴﻮدا ِن‪ ،‬ﻳُ ْﻌﺮ ُﻓﻮ َن ﺑﺎ ْﻟﺒُ َﺠﺎ ِة‪ ،‬وﻟ ُﻬ ْﻢ ُﺳ ْﻠﻄﺎ ٌن ﻣ ْﻦ أَﻧْ ُﻔ ِﺴﻬﻢ‬ ‫ﻳَ ْﺴ ُﻜﻦ َﻣﻌ ُﻬ ْﻢ ﰲ ا ْﻟﺠﺒﺎ ِل ال ُمﺘﱠ ِﺼ َﻠ ِﺔ ِﺑﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫و ُرﺑﱠ َﻤﺎ َو َﺻﻞ ﰲ ﺑَ ْﻌ ِﺾ اﻷَ ْﺣﻴﺎ ِن‪ ،‬وا ْﺟﺘَﻤﻊ ﺑﺎ ْﻟﻮا ِﱄ — اﻟﺬي ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ ا ْﻟ ُﻐ ﱢﺰ — إِ ْﻇﻬﺎ ًرا‬ ‫ﻟﻠ ﱠﻄﺎﻋ ِﺔ‪ .‬وا ْﻟ َﻔﻮا ِﺋ ُﺪ ﻛ ﱡﻠﻬﺎ ﻟﻠ ﱡﺴ ْﻠﻄﺎن إِﻻﱠ ا ْﻟ َﻘﻠﻴﻞ‪ .‬وﻫﺬه اﻟ ِﻔ ْﺮ َﻗ ُﺔ — ِﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﱠﺎ ِس — ﻫ َﻲ أَ َﺿ ﱡﻞ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻷَﻧﻌﺎم ﺳﺒﻴ ًﻼ‪ ،‬وأَ َﻗ ﱡﻞ ﻋﻘﻮ ًﻻ‪ ،‬وﻟﻴ َﺲ ﻟﻬ ْﻢ دﻳ ٌﻦ ِﺳ َﻮى ﻛﻠﻤ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﱠ ْﻮﺣﻴ ِﺪ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳَﻨْ ِﻄﻘﻮن ﺑﻬﺎ إِ ْﻇﻬﺎ ًرا‬ ‫ﻟ ِﻺ ْﺳﻼ ِم‪ .‬و َوراءَ ذﻟﻚ — ِﻣ ْﻦ َﻣﺬا ِﻫ ِﺒ ِﻬ ِﻢ اﻟﻔﺎ ِﺳ َﺪ ِة‪ ،‬و ِﺳ َير ِﻫﻢ — ﻣﺎ ﻻ ﻳُ ْﺮ ِﴈ َوﻻ ﻳَ ِﺤ ﱡﻞ‪.‬‬ ‫ورﺟﺎﻟُﻬﻢ وﻧﺴﺎ ُؤ ُﻫﻢ ﻳﺘَ ﱠﴫﻓﻮ َن ُﻋ َﺮا ًة — إِﻻﱠ ِﺧ َﺮ ًﻗﺎ ﻳَ ْﺴ ُﱰون ﺑﻬﺎ ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺾ أَ ْﺟﺴﺎ ِدﻫﻢ —‬ ‫وأَ ْﻛﺜَ ُﺮﻫﻢ ﻻ ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ِﱰُو َن‪.‬‬ ‫‪42‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ َﻋﻴﺬاب إﱃ ُﺟ ّﺪة‬ ‫)‪ (5‬ﻳﻮ ُم اﻟ ﱠﺴ َﻔﺮ‬ ‫وﰲ ﻳ ْﻮم ا ِﻻﺛْﻨين‪ :‬اﻟﺨﺎﻣ ِﺲ واﻟﻌﴩﻳ َﻦ ﻟﺮ ِﺑﻴ ٍﻊ اﻷَ ﱠو ِل‪ ،‬ر ِﻛﺒْﻨَﺎ ال َم ْﺮ َﻛ َﺐ ِﻟ ْﻠ ُﻌﺒﻮ ِر إِ َﱃ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪ َة«‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ َﻗ ْﻤﻨﺎ‬ ‫ﻳﻮﻣﻨﺎ ذﻟﻚ ﺑﺎل ُم ْﺮ َﳻ‪ِ ،‬ﻟ ُﺮﻛﻮد اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳ ِﺢ وﻣ ِﻐﻴ ِﺐ اﻟﻨﱠﻮا ِﺗ ﱢﻲ )ال َمﻼﱠ ِﺣي َن(‪ .‬ﻓ َﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻛﺎ َن َﺻﺒﻴﺤ ُﺔ ﻳﻮ ِم‬ ‫اﻟﺜﱡﻼﺛَﺎ ِء‪ ،‬أَ ْﻗ َﻠ ْﻌﻨﺎ َﻋ َﲆ ﺑَ َﺮ َﻛ ِﺔ ِﷲ — ﻋ ﱠﺰ و َﺟ ﱠﻞ — َو ُﺣ ْﺴ ِﻦ َﻋ ْﻮ ِﻧﻪ ال َمﺄْ ُﻣﻮ ِل‪ ،‬ﻓﻜﺎﻧَ ْﺖ ُﻣ ﱠﺪ ُة ال ُم َﻘﺎ ِم‬ ‫ِﺑ َﻌﻴْ َﺬاب — ﺣﺎ َﳽ ﻳﻮ َم ا ِﻻﺛْﻨَين ال َمﺬ ُﻛﻮر — ﺛﻼﺛَ ًﺔ و ِﻋ ْﴩﻳ َﻦ ﻳ ْﻮ ًﻣﺎ‪ُ ،‬ﻣ ْﺤﺘَ َﺴﺒَ ًﺔ ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ ﷲ‪ ،‬ﻟ َﺸ َﻈ ِﻒ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﻌﻴْ ِﺶ و ُﺳﻮءِ ا ْﻟﺤﺎ ِل‪ ،‬وا ْﺧﺘﻼ ِل اﻟ ﱢﺼ ﱠﺤ ِﺔ ِﻟ َﻌ َﺪ ِم اﻷَ ْﻏ ِﺬﻳَ ِﺔ ال ُمﻮا ِﻓ َﻘ ِﺔ‪ .‬و َﺣ ْﺴﺒُﻚ ِﻣﻦ ﺑَ َﻠﺪ ﻛ ﱡﻞ َﳾءٍ‬ ‫ﻓﻴ ِﻪ َﻣ ْﺠﻠُﻮ ٌب ﺣﺘﱠﻰ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺎءُ‪ ،‬ﻓ ِﺈﻧﱠ ُﻪ ُزﻋﺎ ٌق ) ُﻣ ﱞﺮ َﻏﻠﻴﻆ ﻻ ﻳُﻄﺎ ُق ُ ْﴍﺑُ ُﻪ(‪ ،‬وا ْﻟ َﻌ َﻄ ُﺶ أَ ْﺷ َﻬﻰ إِﱃ اﻟﻨَ ْﻔ ِﺲ‬ ‫ﻣﻨ ُﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫َﻓﺄَ َﻗ ْﻤﻨﺎ ﺑَ ْي َن ﻫﻮا ٍء ﻳُ ِﺬﻳ ُﺐ اﻷَ ْﺟ َﺴﺎ َم‪ ،‬وﻣﺎ ٍء ﻳَ ْﺸ َﻐﻞ ا ْﻟ َﻤ ِﻌ َﺪ َة ﻋﻦ ا ْﺷ ِﺘﻬﺎءِ اﻟ ﱠﻄﻌﺎم‪.‬‬ ‫َﻓﻤﺎ َﻇ َﻠﻢ ﻣﻦ َﻋﻨَﻰ ﻫﺬه ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﻠﺪ َة ِﺑ َﻘ ْﻮﻟِ ِﻪ‪» :‬ﻣﺎ ٌء ُزﻋﺎ ٌق‪ ،‬و َﺟ ﱞﻮ ُﻛ ﱡﻠ ُﻪ َﻟ َﻬ ُﺐ«‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ِ (6‬ﺳﺠﻦ اﻟﻌﻔﺎرﻳﺖ‬ ‫ﻓﺎ ْﻟ ُﺤﻠُﻮ ُل ﺑﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ أَ ْﻋ َﻈ ِﻢ ال َم َﻜﺎر ِه اﻟﺘﻲ ُﺣ ﱠﻒ ﺑﻬﺎ اﻟ ﱠﺴ ِﺒﻴ ُﻞ إِﱃ ا ْﻟﺒَﻴْ ِﺖ ا ْﻟﻌ ِﺘﻴ ِﻖ‪ ،‬زا َد ُه ﷲُ ﺗَ ِﴩﻳ ًﻔﺎ‬ ‫وﺗ ْﻜ ِﺮﻳ ًﻤﺎ‪ ،‬وأَ ْﻋ َﻈ َﻢ أُ ُﺟﻮ َر ا ْﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج َﻋ َﲆ ﻣﺎ ﻳُﻜﺎ ِﺑ ُﺪون‪ ،‬وﻻ ِﺳﻴﱠﻤﺎ ﰲ ِﺗ ْﻠﻚ ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﻠﺪ ِة اﻟ ﱠﺸ ِﻘﻴﱠﺔ‪ ،‬وﻗﺪ‬ ‫َﻟ ِﻬ َﺞ اﻟﻨﺎ ُس ﺑ ِﺬﻛﺮ ﻗﺒﺎﺋﺤﻬﺎ ﺣﺘﱠﻰ ز َﻋ ُﻤﻮا أَن »ﺳ َﻠﻴﻤﺎ َن ﺑْ َﻦ دا ُو َد« — َﻋ َﲆ ﻧَ ِﺒﻴﱢﻨَﺎ وﻋ َﻠﻴْ ِﻪ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻼَ ُم‬ ‫— ﻛﺎن ﻗ ِﺪ اﺗ َﺨﺬﻫﺎ ِﺳ ْﺠﻨًﺎ ﻟ ْﻠﻌﻔﺎرﺗَ ِﺔ ) ِﻟ ْﻠ َﻌﻔﺎ ِرﻳ ِﺖ(‪ .‬وﻫﺬه اﻷُﺳ ُﻄﻮر ُة ﺗُﻤﺜﱢﻞ ﻣﺎ ﻳ ْﻠ َﻘﺎ ُه ال ُمﻘﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ ﻣ َﺸ ﱠﻘ ٍﺔ و َﻋﻨﺎءٍ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (7‬ﺑ ْﺤ ُﺮ ِﻓ ْﺮ َﻋ ْﻮن‬ ‫وﻗﺪ ﺗَﻤﺎ َدى َﺳ ْيرُﻧﺎ ﰲ اﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ِﺮ ﻳﻮ َم اﻟﺜﱡﻼﺛَﺎ ِء وﻳَ ْﻮ َم اﻷَ ْرﺑﻌﺎءِ ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺪ ُه ﺑﺮﻳ ٍﺢ ﻓﺎ ِﺗ َﺮ ِة ا ْﻟ َﻤ َﻬ ﱢﺐ‪ ،‬ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻛﺎن‬ ‫اﻟ ِﻌ َﺸﺎءُ ﻣﻦ َﻟﻴْ َﻠﺔ اﻟﺨﻤﻴ ِﺲ — وﻧَﺤﻦ ﻗﺪ اﺳﺘَﺒْ َ ْﴩﻧﺎ ِﺑ ُﺮؤﻳ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠﻄ ْير ال ُم َﺤ ﱢﻠﻘ ِﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺑَ ﱢﺮ اﻟ ِﺤﺠﺎ ِز —‬ ‫َﻟ َﻤ َﻊ ﺑ ْﺮ ٌق ﻣﻦ ِﺟ َﻬﺔ ا ْﻟ ﱢﱪ‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ ﺟ َﻬ ُﺔ اﻟ ﱠ ْﴩ ِق‪ ،‬ﺛُ ﱠﻢ ﻧَ َﺸﺄَ ﻧَ ْﻮءٌ أَ ْﻇ َﻠﻢ ﻟﻪ اﻷُ ُﻓ ُﻖ إِﱃ أَن َﻛﺴﺎ ا ْﻟ َﺠ ﱢﻮ‬ ‫ُﻛ ﱠﻠ ُﻪ َﺳ َﻮا ًدا‪.‬‬ ‫وﻫﺒﱠ ْﺖ ِرﻳ ٌﺢ ﺷﺪﻳﺪ ٌة َﴏ َﻓ ِﺖ ال َم ْﺮ َﻛ َﺐ ﻋﻦ ﻃﺮﻳﻘ ِﻪ‪ ،‬راﺟ ًﻌﺎ وراءَ ُه‪ .‬وﺗَﻤﺎ َدى ُﻋﺼﻮ ُف‬ ‫اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳﺎ ِح‪ ،‬وا ْﺷﺘَ ﱠﺪ ْت ُﺣ ْﻠ َﻜ ُﺔ اﻟ ﱡﻈ ْﻠﻤ ِﺔ َو َﻋ ﱠﻤﺖ اﻵﻓﺎ َق‪ ،‬ﻓ َﻠ ْﻢ ﻧَ ْﺪ ِر اﻟ ِﺠﻬ َﺔ ال َمﻘ ُﺼﻮ َدة ﻣﻨﻬﺎ‪ ،‬إِﱃ أَ ْن َﻇﻬﺮ‬ ‫‪43‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫ﺑَ ْﻌ ُﺾ اﻟﻨﱡﺠﻮم‪ ،‬ﻓﺎﺳﺘَﺪ َﻟ ْﻠﻨﺎ ﺑﻬﺎ ﺑ ْﻌ َﺾ اﻻ ْﺳ ِﺘ ْﺪﻻ ِل‪ ،‬و َﺣ َﻄ ْﻄﻨﺎ ا ْﻟ ِﻘ ْﻠ َﻊ إِﱃ أِ ْﺳ َﻔﻞ اﻟ ﱠﺼﺎ ِري‪ .‬وأَ َﻗ ْﻤﻨﺎ‬ ‫َﻟﻴْ َﻠﺘَﻨﺎ ﺗﻠ َﻚ ﰲ َﻫ ْﻮل ﻳُ ْﺆ ِذ ُن ﺑﺎ ْﻟﻴَﺄْ ِس‪ ،‬وأَراﻧَﺎ ﺑَ ْﺤ ُﺮ ِﻓ ْﺮ َﻋ ْﻮ َن ﺑ ْﻌﺾ أَ ْﻫﻮا ِﻟﻪ ال َم ْﻮ ُﺻﻮ َﻓ ِﺔ‪ ،‬إِﱃ أَن أَﺗَﻰ‬ ‫ﷲُ ﺑﺎ ْﻟ َﻔﺮ ِج ُﻣ ْﻘ َ ِﱰﻧًﺎ ﻣﻊ اﻟ ﱠﺼﺒﺎ ِح‪ ،‬ﻓ َﺴ َﻜﻨَ ِﺖ اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳ ُﺢ‪ ،‬وأَ ْﻗ َﺸ َﻊ اﻟ َﻐﻴْ ُﻢ‪ ،‬وأَ ْﺻ َﺤﺖ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻤﺎءُ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (8‬ﻋﺎ ِﺋ َﻘ ُﺔ اﻟ ﱡﺴ ُﻔ ِﻦ‬ ‫وﻻح ﻟﻨﺎ ﺑَ ﱡﺮ اﻟﺤﺠﺎز — َﻋ َﲆ ﺑُ ْﻌ ٍﺪ — ﻻ ﻧُﺒْ ِ ُﴫ ﻣﻨﻪ إِﻻﱠ ﺑﻌ َﺾ ِﺟﺒﺎ ِﻟﻪ‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ َ ْﴍ ًﻗﺎ ﻣﻦ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪ َة«‪.‬‬ ‫َز َﻋ َﻢ ُرﺑﱠﺎ ُن ال َم ْﺮ َﻛ ِﺐ — وﻫﻮ اﻟﺮا ِﺋ ُﺲ — أَ ﱠن ﺑي َن ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﺠﺒﺎ ِل اﻟﺘﻲ ﻻ َﺣ ْﺖ ﻟﻨﺎ وﺑَ ﱢﺮ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة«‬ ‫ﻳَ ْﻮ َﻣ ْي ِن‪ ،‬وﷲُ ﻳُ َﺴ ﱢﻬ ُﻞ ﻟﻨﺎ ﻛ ﱠﻞ َﺻ ْﻌﺐ وﻳُﻴَ ﱢ ُﴪ ﻟﻨﺎ ﻛ ﱠﻞ َﻋﺴي ٍر‪ .‬ﻓﺠ َﺮﻳْﻨﺎ ﻳَ ْﻮ َﻣﻨﺎ ذﻟﻚ — وﻫﻮ ﻳﻮ ُم‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﺨ ِﻤﻴ ِﺲ — ﺑ ِﺮﻳ ٍﺢ ُر َﺧﺎءٍ َﻃﻴﱢﺒَ ٍﺔ‪ ،‬ﺛ ﱠﻢ أَ ْر َﺳﻴْﻨَﺎ َﻋ ِﺸﻴﱠ ًﺔ ﰲ َﺟ ِﺰﻳﺮ ٍة ﺻﻐيرة ﰲ ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ِﺮ ﻋﲆ َﻣ ْﻘ َﺮة ِﻣ َﻦ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﱪﱢ؛ ﺑﻌﺪ أَ ْن ﻟ ِﻘﻴﻨﺎ ِﺷﻌﺎﺑًﺎ ﻛﺜير ًة ﻳ ْﻜﺜُﺮ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ المﺎءُ وﻳَ ْﻀ َﺤ ُﻞ )ﻳَﻘ ﱡﻞ(‪ ،‬ﻓﺘﺨ ﱠﻠﻠﻨﺎ ﰲ أَﺛﻨﺎﺋﻬﺎ ﻋﲆ‬ ‫َﺣﺬَر وﺗَ َﺤ ﱡﻔ ٍﻆ‪ .‬وﻛﺎ َن اﻟ ﱡﺮﺑﱠﺎ ُن ﺑَ ِﺼي ًرا ﺑ َﺼﻨْ َﻌ ِﺘ ِﻪ ﺣﺎ ِذ ًﻗﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﺨ ﱠﻠﺼﻨﺎ ﷲُ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﺣﺘﻰ أَ ْر َﺳﻴْﻨَﺎ‬ ‫ﺑﺘﻠ َﻚ ا ْﻟ َﺠﺰﻳ َﺮ ِة‪ ،‬وﻧَ َﺰ ْﻟﻨَﺎ إِﻟﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬و ِﺑﺘْﻨَﺎ ﺑﻬﺎ ﻟﻴﻠ َﺔ اﻟ ُﺠ ُﻤ َﻌ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﺎﺳ ِﻊ واﻟﻌﴩﻳ َﻦ ﻟ َﺮﺑﻴ ٍﻊ اﻷَ ﱠو ِل‪ .‬وأَﺻﺒَﺢ‬ ‫اﻟﻬﻮاءُ راﻛ ًﺪا واﻟ ﱢﺮﻳ ُﺢ ﻏيرَ ﻣﺘﻨَ ﱢﻔ َﺴ ٍﺔ إِﻻﱠ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺠﻬ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻻ ﺗُﻮا ِﻓ ُﻘﻨَﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ َﻗ ْﻤﻨَﺄ ﺑﻬﺎ ﻳﻮ َم اﻟ ُﺠ ُﻤ َﻌﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻛﺎن ﻳﻮ ُم اﻟ ﱠﺴﺒْ ِﺖ ﺗﻨَ ﱠﻔﺴ ِﺖ اﻟ ﱢﺮﻳ ُﺢ ﺑﻌ َﺾ ﺗﻨَ ﱡﻔ ٍﺲ؛ ﻓﺄَ ْﻗ َﻠ ْﻌﻨَﺎ — ﺑﺬﻟﻚ اﻟﻨﱠ َﻔ ِﺲ — ﻧَ ِﺴيرُ َﺳ ْي ًرا‬ ‫ُر َوﻳْ ًﺪا‪ ،‬وﺳ َﻜ َﻦ اﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ُﺮ ﺣﺘﻰ َﺧﻴﱠ َﻞ ﻟﻨﺎ ِﻇ ِﺮ ِه أَﻧﻪ َﺻ ْﺤ ُﻦ ُزﺟﺎج أَ ْز َر ُق‪ ،‬ﻓﺄَ َﻗ ْﻤﻨﺎ ﻋﲆ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﺤﺎ ِل‬ ‫ﻧﺮﺟﻮ ﻟﻄﻴ َﻒ ُﺻﻨْ ِﻊ ِﷲ‪ ،‬ﻋ ﱠﺰ و َﺟ ﱠﻞ‪ .‬وﻫﺬه اﻟﺠﺰﻳﺮ ُة ﺗُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑﺠﺰﻳﺮ ِة »ﻋﺎ ِﺋ َﻘ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱡﺴ ُﻔ ِﻦ«‪ ،‬ﻓ َﻌﺼ َﻤﻨﺎ‬ ‫ﷲُ ﻣﻦ َﻓﺄْ ِل ا ْﺳ ِﻤﻬﺎ ال َم ْﺬﻣﻮ ِم‪ ،‬وللهِ اﻟ َﺤ ْﻤ ُﺪ واﻟ ﱡﺸ ْﻜﺮ ﻋﲆ ذﻟﻚ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (9‬ﻣﻴﻨﺎء أَﺑﺤﺮ‬ ‫اﺳﺘﻬ ﱠﻞ ِﻫﻼ ُل رﺑﻴ ٍﻊ اﻵ ِﺧ ِﺮ — ﻟﻴْ َﻠ َﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺴﺒْ ِﺖ — وﻧَ ْﺤ ُﻦ ﺑﺘﻠﻚ ا ْﻟ َﺠ ِﺰﻳ َﺮ ِة‪ .‬وﻟﻢ ﻳَ ْﻈ َﻬ ْﺮ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟ ﱠﻠﻴْ َﻠ َﺔ‬ ‫ﻟﻸَﺑْ َﺼﺎ ِر — ﺑﺴﺒ ِﺐ اﻟ ُﻐﻴُﻮم وال َم َﻄ ِﺮ — ﻟﻜﻨﱠ ُﻪ َﻇ َﻬﺮ ﰲ اﻟ ﱠﻠﻴْ َﻠ ِﺔ اﻟﺜﱠﺎ ِﻧﻴَ ِﺔ ﻛﺒيرًا ُﻣ ْﺮﺗَ ِﻔ ًﻌﺎ‪َ ،‬ﻓﺘَ َﺤ ﱠﻘ ْﻘﻨَﺎ‬ ‫إﻫﻼ َل َﻟﻴْ َﻠ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺴﺒْ ِﺖ‪.‬‬ ‫وﰲ َﻋ ِ ﱢﴚ ﻳَ ْﻮ ِم اﻷَ َﺣ ِﺪ أَ ْر َﺳﻴْﻨَﺎ ِﺑ ُﻤ ْﺮ ًﳻ ﻳُ ْﻌ َﺮ ُف ﺑ»أَﺑْﺤﺮ«— َﻋ َﲆ ﺑَ ْﻌ ِﺾ ﻳَ ْﻮ ٍم ﻣﻦ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪ َة«‬ ‫و ُﻫ َﻮ ﻣﻦ أَ ْﻋ َﺠ ِﺐ ال َم َﺮاﳻ َو ْﺿ ًﻌﺎ‪ .‬وذﻟﻚ أَن َﺧ ِﻠﻴ ًﺠﺎ ِﻣ َﻦ ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ِﺮ ﻳَ ْﺪ ُﺧﻞ إِﱃ اﻟ َ ﱢﱪ‪ ،‬واﻟ َ ﱡﱪ ُﻣ ِﻄﻴ ٌﻒ ﺑ ِﻪ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ِﻛ ْﻠﺘَﺎ َﺣﺎ َﻓﺘَﻴْ ِﻪ‪َ ،‬ﻓ ُﱰ ِﳼ ال َمﺮا ِﻛ ُﺐ ﻣﻨﻪ ﰲ َﻗﺮار ٍة ﻫﺎ ِدﺋَ ٍﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫‪44‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ َﻋﻴﺬاب إﱃ ُﺟ ّﺪة‬ ‫ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ ﻛﺎن َﺳ َﺤ ُﺮ ﻳﻮ ِم اﻹﺛْﻨَ ْي ِن ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺪ ُه‪ ،‬أَ ْﻗ َﻠ ْﻌﻨَﺎ ﻣﻨ ُﻪ َﻋ َﲆ ﺑَ َﺮ َﻛ ِﺔ ِﷲ — ﺗﻌﺎﱃ — ﺑﺮﻳ ٍﺢ ﻓﺎ ِﺗ َﺮة‪،‬‬ ‫ﻓﻠ ﱠﻤﺎ َﺟ ﱠﻦ اﻟﻠﻴ ُﻞ أَ ْر َﺳﻴْﻨَﺎ ﻋﲆ ﻣﻘ َﺮﺑ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة«‪ ،‬وﻫ َﻲ ﺑ َﻤ ْﺮأَى ا ْﻟﻌ ْي ِن ِﻣﻨﱠﺎ‪ .‬وﺣﺎ َﻟ ِﺖ اﻟﺮﻳ ُﺢ‬ ‫ﺻﺒﻴﺤ َﺔ ﻳﻮ ِم اﻟﺜﱡﻼﺛﺎ ِء ﺑﻴﻨﻨﺎ وﺑين ُدﺧﻮل ُﻣ ْﺮ َﺳﺎﻫﺎ‪ ،‬و ُدﺧﻮ ُل ﻫﺬه المﺮاﳻ ﺻ ْﻌ ُﺐ ال َمﺮا ِم‪ِ ،‬ﺑ َﺴﺒَ ِﺐ‬ ‫َﻛﺜْﺮة اﻟ ﱢﺸﻌﺎب واﻟﺘﻔﺎ ِﻓﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وأَﺑﴫﻧﺎ ﻣﻦ ﺻﻨﻌﺔ ﻫﺆﻻءُ اﻟﺮؤﺳﺎءِ واﻟﻨﱠﻮا ِﺗ ﱢﻲ — ﰲ اﻟﺘ ﱡﴫف ﺑﺎل َم ْﺮ َﻛ ِﺐ ﰲ أَﺛﻨﺎ ِﺋﻬﺎ —‬ ‫أَﻣ ًﺮا َﻋﺠﻴﺒًﺎ‪ :‬ﻳُ ْﺪﺧﻠُﻮﻧﻬﺎ َﻋ َﲆ ﻣﻀﺎ ِﻳ َﻖ‪ ،‬وﻳُ َ ﱢﴫ ُﻓﻮﻧﻬﺎ ِﺧﻼَ َﻟﻬﺎ ﺗَ ْ ِﴫﻳ َﻒ ا ْﻟ َﻔﺎ ِر ِس ِﻟ ْﻠ َﺠﻮا ِد اﻟ ﱠﺮ ْﻃ ِﺐ‬ ‫اﻟ ِﻌﻨَﺎ ِن‪ ،‬اﻟ ﱠﺴ ِﻠ ِﺲ اﻟ ِﻘﻴَﺎ ِد‪َ ،‬وﻳﺄْﺗُﻮ َن — ﰲ ذﻟﻚ — ِﺑ َﻌ َﺠ ٍﺐ ﻳَ ِﻀﻴ ُﻖ ا ْﻟﻮ ْﺻ ُﻒ ﻋﻨ ُﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ُ (10‬ﻣ ْﺮ َﳻ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة«‬ ‫وﰲ ُﻇﻬ ِﺮ ﻳَﻮم اﻟﺜﱡﻼﺛﺎءِ َﻛﺎن ﻧُ ُﺰوﻟﻨﺎ ﺑ» ُﺟ ﱠﺪة« ﺣﺎ ِﻣﺪﻳ َﻦ ﷲ — ﻋ ﱠﺰ و َﺟ ﱠﻞ — و َﺷﺎ ِﻛﺮﻳ َﻦ َﻋ َﲆ‬ ‫اﻟ ﱠﺴﻼ َﻣ ِﺔ واﻟﻨﱠﺠﺎ ِة ِﻣﻦ َﻫ ْﻮ ِل ﻣﺎ ﻋﺎﻳَﻨﱠﺎ ُه ﰲ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﺜﱠﻤﺎ ِﻧﻴَ ِﺔ اﻷَﻳﺎ ِم ُﻃﻮ َل ُﻣﻘﺎ ِﻣﻨﺎ َﻋ َﲆ اﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ِﺮ‪.‬‬ ‫و َﻛﺎﻧَﺖ أَﻫﻮا ٌل َﺷﺘﱠﻰ‪ ،‬ﻋﺼ َﻤﻨﺎ ﷲُ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﺑ َﻔ ْﻀ ِﻠ ِﻪ و َﻛﺮ ِﻣﻪ‪ .‬ﻓ ِﻤﻨْﻬﺎ ﻣﺎ َﻛﺎن ﻳ ْﻄ َﺮأُ ِﻣﻦ اﻟﺒَ ْﺤﺮ‬ ‫وا ْﺧ ِﺘﻼ ِف ِرﻳﺎ ِﺣﻪ و َﻛﺜْﺮة ِﺷﻌﺎﺑﻪ ال ُم ْﻌ َﱰﺿ ِﺔ ﻓﻴﻪ‪ .‬وﻣﻨْﻬﺎ ﻣﺎ َﻛﺎن ﻳ ْﻄﺮأُ ﻣﻦ َﺿ ْﻌ ِﻒ ُﻋ ﱠﺪ ِة ا ْﻟ َﻤﺮا ِﻛﺐ‬ ‫واﺧ ِﺘﻼ ِﻟﻬﺎ واﻗ ِﺘﺼﺎ ِﻣﻬﺎ ) َﻛ ْ ِﴪﻫﺎ( — ال َم ﱠﺮ َة ﺑَ ْﻌ َﺪ ال َم ﱠﺮ ِة — ِﻋﻨْ َﺪ َرﻓ ِﻊ اﻟ ﱢ َﴩا ِع‪ ،‬أو َﺣ ﱢﻄ ِﻪ‪ ،‬أَو َﺟ ْﺬ ِب‬ ‫ِﻣ ْﺮﺳﺎ ٍة ِﻣﻦ َﻣﺮا ِﺳﻴ ِﻪ‪ .‬ورﺑﱠ َﻤﺎ َﺟﻨَﺢ أَ َﺳ َﻔ ُﻞ ال َم ْﺮﻛ ِﺐ ِﻟ ِﺸ ْﻌ ٍﺐ ِﻣﻦ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟ ﱢﺸﻌﺎ ِب — ف‪ d‬أَﺛﻨﺎءِ‬ ‫ﺗَ َﺨ ﱡﻠﻠ ِﻪ — ﻓﻨَ ْﺴ َﻤ ُﻊ َﻟ ُﻪ َﻫ ٍّﺪا و َﻗ ْﺼ ًﻔﺎ ﻳُ ْﺆ ِذﻧﺎ ِن ﺑﺎ ْﻟﻴَﺄْ ِس‪ .‬ﻓ ُﻜﻨﱠﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻧ ُﻤﻮ ُت ِﻣﺮا ًرا‪ ،‬وﻧَﺤﻴَﺎ ِﻣﺮا ًرا‪.‬‬ ‫‪45‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫وا ْﻟ َﺤ ْﻤ ُﺪ للهِ — َﻋ َﲆ ﻣﺎ َﻣ ﱠﻦ ﺑﻪ ﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ِﻌ ْﺼ َﻤ ِﺔ‪ ،‬وﺗ َﻜ ﱠﻔ َﻞ ﺑﻪ ﻣﻦ اﻟ ِﻮ َﻗﺎﻳﺔ واﻟ ِﻜ َﻔﺎﻳ ِﺔ — َﺣ ْﻤ ًﺪا ﻳَﺒﻠُ ُﻎ‬ ‫ر َﺿﺎ ُه‪ ،‬وﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ْﻬ ِﺪي ال َمﺰﻳ َﺪ ِﻣﻦ ﻧُ ْﻌ َﻤﺎ ُه‪.‬‬ ‫‪46‬‬

‫اﻟﻔﺼﻞ اﻟﺨﺎﻣﺲ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ُﺟ ّﺪة إِﱃ َﻣ ّﻜﺔ‬ ‫)‪ (1‬ﺻﺎ ِﺣ ُﺐ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة«‬ ‫و َﻛﺎن ﻧُ ُﺰوﻟُﻨﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ِﺑﺪا ِر اﻟ َﻘﺎ ِﺋ ِﺪ‪َ » :‬ﻋ ِﲇﱟ«‪ ،‬و ُﻫﻮ ﺻﺎﺣ ُﺐ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة« ِﻣﻦ ِﻗﺒَﻞ أَﻣي ِر » َﻣ ﱠﻜ َﺔ«‪ .‬وﻗﺪ‬ ‫َﺣ َﻠ ْﻠﻨﺎ َ ْﴏ ًﺣﺎ ِﻣﻦ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟ ﱡ ُﴫو ِح ا ْﻟ ُﺨﺼﻮ ِﺻﻴﱠ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳَﺒْﻨُﻮﻧَﻬﺎ ﰲ أَﻋﺎ ِﱃ دﻳﺎ ِرﻫﻢ وﻳَﺨ ُﺮﺟﻮن ِﻣﻨﻬﺎ‬ ‫إِﱃ ُﺳﻄﻮح ﻳَ ِﺒﻴﺘُﻮن ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻋﻨ َﺪ ا ْﺣﺘﻼ ِﻟﻨﺎ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة« ﻋﺎ َﻫ ْﺪﻧﺎ ﷲَ — ُ ُﴎو ًرا ِﺑ َﻤﺎ أَﻧ َﻌ َﻢ ﷲُ ﺑﻪ ﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻼ َﻣ ِﺔ — أَﻻﱠ ﻳﻜﻮ َن‬ ‫اﻧْ ِﴫا ُﻓﻨﺎ َﻋ َﲆ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ِﺮ ال َم ُﺨﻮ ِف اﻟ َﻬﺎ ِﺋﻞ‪ ،‬إِﻻﱠ إِ ْن َﻃﺮأَ ْت َﻋﻠﻴْﻨﺎ َ ُﴐو َر ٌة ﺗَ ُﺤﻮ ُل ﺑﻴْﻨﻨَﺎ وﺑي َن‬ ‫ِﺳﻮا ُه ﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱡﻄ ُﺮق‪ ،‬وﷲُ َو ِﱄﱡ ا ِﻟ ِﺨيرَ ِة‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (2‬آﺛﺎ ُر » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة«‬ ‫و» ُﺟ ﱠﺪة« ﻫﺬ ِه‪َ ،‬ﻗ ْﺮﻳ ٌﺔ َﻋ َﲆ ﺳﺎ ِﺣﻞ اﻟﺒَ ْﺤ ِﺮ‪ ،‬أَ ْﻛﺜَ ُﺮ ﺑُﻴﻮﺗِﻬﺎ أﺧ َﺼﺎ ٌص‪ .‬وﻓﻴ َﻬﺎ ﻓﻨَﺎ ِد ُق َﻣﺒْ ِﻨﻴﱠ ٌﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﺎ ْﻟ ِﺤ َﺠﺎ َر ِة واﻟ ﱢﻄي ِن‪ ،‬وﰲ أَﻋﻼﻫﺎ ﺑُﻴﻮ ٌت ِﻣﻦ اﻷَﺧﺼﺎ ِص ﻛﺎ ْﻟ ُﻐ َﺮ ِف‪ ،‬وﻟﻬﺎ ُﺳ ُﻄﻮ ٌح ﻳُ ْﺴ َﱰا ُح ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫— ﺑﺎ ﱠﻟﻠﻴﻞ — ِﻣﻦ أَذَى ا ْﻟ َﺤ ﱢﺮ‪ .‬وﺑﻬ ِﺬه ا ْﻟ َﻘ ْﺮﻳ ِﺔ آﺛﺎ ٌر ﺗَ ُﺪ ﱡل َﻋ َﲆ أَﻧﱠﻬﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻣﺪﻳﻨَ ًﺔ ﻗﺪﻳﻤ ًﺔ‪ ،‬وأَﺛَ ُﺮ‬ ‫ُﺳﻮ ِرﻫﺎ ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ْﺤ ِﺪ ِق ﺑﻬﺎ ﺑﺎ ٍق إِﱃ ا ْﻟﻴَﻮ ِم‪.‬‬ ‫وﺑﻬﺎ َﻣﻮ ِﺿ ٌﻊ ﻓﻴ ِﻪ ُﻗﺒﱠ ٌﺔ ُﻣ َﺸﻴﱠ َﺪ ٌة َﻋﺘﻴ َﻘ ٌﺔ‪ ،‬ﻳُ ْﺬ َﻛ ُﺮ أَﻧ ُﻪ َﻛﺎن َﻣﻨْ ِﺰ َل »ﺣ ﱠﻮا َء« أُ ﱢم ا ْﻟﺒَ َ ِﴩ — ﺻ ﱠﲆ‬ ‫ﷲُ ﻋﻠﻴْﻬﺎ و َﺳ ﱠﻠﻢ — ِﻋﻨْ َﺪﻣﺎ ﺗَ َﻮ ﱠﺟ َﻬ ْﺖ إِﱃ »ﻣ ﱠﻜ َﺔ« َﻓﺒُ ِﻨ َﻲ ذﻟﻚ ا ْﻟ َﻤﺒْﻨَﻰ ﻋ َﻠﻴ ِﻪ‪ ،‬ﺗَ ْﺸ ِﻬيرًا ِﻟ َ َﱪ َﻛ ِﺘﻪ‪،‬‬ ‫وإِذا َﻋ ًﺔ ﻟ َﻔ ْﻀ ِﻠﻪ‪ ،‬وﷲُ أَ ْﻋ َﻠ ُﻢ‪.‬‬

‫اﺑﻦ ﺟﺒير ﰲ ﻣﴫ واﻟﺤﺠﺎز‬ ‫)‪ (3‬أَ ْﻫﻞ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة«‬ ‫وأَ ْﻛﺜَ ُﺮ ُﺳﻜﺎ ِن ﻫﺬ ِه ا ْﻟﺒَ ْﻠﺪ ِة — ﻣ َﻊ ﻣﺎ ﻳَﻠِﻴﻬﺎ ِﻣ َﻦ اﻟ ﱠﺼ ْﺤﺮا ِء وا ْﻟ ِﺠﺒﺎل — أَ َﴍا ٌف‪ .‬و ُﻫﻢ — ِﻣ َﻦ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﻔ ْﻘ ِﺮ و َﺷ َﻈ ِﻒ ا ْﻟﻌﻴْ ِﺶ — ِﺑﺤﺎ ٍل ﻳﺘَ َﺼ ﱠﺪ ُع ﻟ َﻬﺎ ا ْﻟ َﺠ َﻤﺎ ُد إِﺷ َﻔﺎ ًﻗﺎ و ُﺣ ْﺰﻧًﺎ‪ .‬وﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺨ ِﺪﻣﻮ َن أَﻧْ ُﻔ َﺴ ُﻬ ْﻢ‬ ‫ﰲ ﻛ ﱢﻞ ِﻣ ْﻬﻨَ ٍﺔ ﻣ َﻦ الِم َﻬ ِﻦ‪ِ ،‬ﻣ ْﻦ إِ ْﻛﺮاءِ ِﺟ َﻤﺎ ٍل — إِ ْن َﻛﺎن ﻟ ُﻬ ْﻢ ِﺟ َﻤﺎ ٌل — أَو َﻣﺒﻴ ِﻊ َﻟﺒَ ٍﻦ أَو ﻣﺎ ٍء‪ ،‬إِﱃ‬ ‫َﻏي ِر ذﻟﻚ ِﻣ ْﻦ ﺛَ َﻤ ٍﺮ ﻳ ْﻠﺘَ ِﻘ ُﻄﻮﻧَ ُﻪ‪ ،‬أَو َﺣ َﻄ ٍﺐ ﻳَﺤﺘَ ِﻄﺒُﻮﻧَﻪ‪ .‬و ُرﺑﱠ َﻤﺎ َﺷﺎ َر َﻛﺘْ ُﻬ ْﻢ ﰲ ﻫﺬه الِمﻬ ِﻦ ا ْﻟ َﺤﻘير ِة‬ ‫ِﻧﺴﺎ ُؤ ُﻫﻢ اﻟ ِﴩﻳ َﻔﺎ ُت ﺑﺄَﻧْ ُﻔ ِﺴ ِﻬ ﱠﻦ‪ .‬ﻓ ُﺴﺒﺤﺎﻧَ ُﻪ ال ُم َﻘ ﱢﺪ ِر ِﻟ َﻤﺎ ﻳَ َﺸﺎ ُء‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ (4‬آﺑﺎر » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة«‬ ‫و ِﺑ َﺨﺎر ِج ﻫﺬه اﻟﺒَ ْﻠ َﺪ ِة َﻣﺼﺎﻧ ُﻊ ﻗﺪﻳﻤ ٌﺔ ﺗ ُﺪ ﱡل َﻋ َﲆ ِﻗ َﺪ ِم ا ْﺧ ِﺘﻄﺎ ِﻃ َﻬﺎ وإِﻧﺸﺎﺋﻬﺎ‪ .‬وﻳُ ْﺬ َﻛ ُﺮ أَﻧﻬﺎ َﻛﺎﻧ ْﺖ‬ ‫ِﻣﻦ ُﻣ ُﺪ ِن اﻟ ُﻔ ْﺮ ِس‪ .‬وﺑﻬﺎ ِﺟﺒﺎ ٌب )آﺑﺎر( َﻣﻨْ ُﻘﻮ َر ٌة ﰲ ا ْﻟ َﺤ َﺠﺮ اﻟ ﱠﺼ ْﻠ ِﺪ‪ ،‬ﻳَﺘﱠ ِﺼ ُﻞ ﺑَ ْﻌ ُﻀﻬﺎ ﺑﺒ ْﻌﺾ‪،‬‬ ‫ﺗﻔﻮ ُت ا ِﻹ ْﺣﺼﺎ ِء َﻛﺜْ َﺮ ًة‪َ .‬وﻫﻲ دا ِﺧ َﻞ ا ْﻟﺒَ َﻠ ِﺪ َوﺧﺎ ِر َﺟ ُﻪ‪ ،‬ﺣﺘﻰ إِﻧﻬﻢ ﻳَ ْﺰ ُﻋﻤﻮن أَن اﻟﺘﻲ ﺧﺎر َج‬ ‫ا ْﻟﺒَﻠ ِﺪ ﺛَﻼ ُث ﻣﺌﺔ و ِﺳﺘﱡﻮ َن ُﺟﺒٍّﺎ‪ ،‬وﻣﺜْ َﻞ ذﻟﻚ دا ِﺧ َﻞ اﻟﺒَ َﻠ ِﺪ‪ .‬وﻋﺎﻳَﻨﱠﺎ ﻧَ ْﺤ ُﻦ ُﺟ ْﻤ َﻠ ًﺔ َﻛﺜيرَ ًة ﻻ ﻳﺄْ ُﺧﺬُﻫﺎ‬ ‫ا ِﻹ ْﺣﺼﺎ ُء‪.‬‬ ‫وﻋﺠﺎ ِﺋ ُﺐ ال َم ْﻮﺿﻮﻋﺎ ِت َﻛﺜي َر ٌة‪َ ،‬ﻓ ُﺴﺒﺤﺎ َن ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ِﺤﻴ ِﻂ ِﻋ ْﻠ ًﻤﺎ ﺑﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫)‪َ (5‬ﻣﺬا ِﻫ ُﺐ ال ُمﺘَﻄ ﱢﺮﻓي َن‬ ‫وأَ ْﻛﺜَ ُﺮ ﻫﺬه ا ْﻟ ِﺠﻬﺎ ِت َو ِﺳ َﻮاﻫﺎ ِﻓ َﺮ ٌق َو ِﺷﻴَ ٌﻊ‪ ،‬ﻻ دﻳ َﻦ ﻟ ُﻬ ْﻢ‪ ،‬ﻗﺪ ﺗَﻔ ﱠﺮﻗﻮا َﻋ َﲆ َﻣﺬا ِﻫ َﺐ َﺷﺘﱠﻰ‪.‬‬ ‫َو ُﻫ ْﻢ ﻳَ ْﻌﺘَ ِﻘ ُﺪو َن ﰲ اﻟﺤﺎ ﱢج ﻣﺎ ﻻ ﻳُ ْﻌﺘَ َﻘ ُﺪ ﰲ أَ ْﻫ ِﻞ اﻟ ﱢﺬ ﱠﻣ ِﺔ‪ ،‬ﻗ ْﺪ َﺻ ﱠيرُو ُﻫ ْﻢ ﻣ ْﻦ أَ ْﻋﻈ ِﻢ َﻏﻼﱠﺗ ِﻬﻢ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ِﻐ ﱡﻠﻮﻧﻬﺎ‪ :‬ﻳﻨْﺘَﻬﺒﻮﻧﻬﻢ اﻧ ِﺘﻬﺎﺑًﺎ‪ ،‬وﻳَﻨْﺘَ ِﺤﻠﻮ َن اﻷَﺳﺒﺎ َب ﻻ ْﻏ ِﺘﺼﺎ ِب ﻣﺎ ِﺑﺄَﻳْ ِﺪﻳﻬﻢ ا ْﻏ ِﺘﺼﺎﺑًﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫وا ْﺳﺘﺠﻼ ِب ﻣﺎ ﻳَ ْﻤ ِﻠ ُﻜﻮن ا ْﺳﺘﺠﻼﺑًﺎ‪ .‬ﻓﺎﻟﺤﺎ ﱡج ﻣﻌﻬﻢ ﻻ ﻳﺰا ُل ﰲ ﻏﺮا َﻣ ٍﺔ و َﻣ َﺸ ﱠﻘﺔ‪ ،‬إﱃ أَن ﻳُﻴَ ﱢ َﴪ‬ ‫ﷲُ ُر ُﺟﻮ َﻋ ُﻪ إِﱃ َوﻃﻨ ِﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫‪48‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ ُﺟ ّﺪة إِﱃ َﻣ ّﻜﺔ‬ ‫)‪ (6‬ﻓﻀ ُﻞ »ﺻﻼ ِح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳ ِﻦ«‬ ‫َو َﻟ ْﻮﻻ ﻣﺎ ﺗﻼﰲ ﷲُ ﺑﻪ ال ُم ْﺴﻠ ِﻤي َن ﰲ ﻫﺬه ا ْﻟ ِﺠ َﻬﺎ ِت — ﺑ» َﺻﻼ ِح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳ ِﻦ« — ﻷَ ْر َﻫ َﻘ ُﻬ ُﻢ اﻟ ﱡﻈ ْﻠ ُﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻓ ِﺈﻧ ُﻪ ر َﻓ َﻊ َﴐاﺋ َﺐ ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ُﻜﻮس ﻋﻦ اﻟﺤﺎ ﱢج‪ ،‬و َﺟﻌ َﻞ — ِﻋ َﻮ َض ذﻟﻚ — َﻣﺎ ًﻻ َوﻃ َﻌﺎ ًﻣﺎ‪ ،‬ﻳﺄْ ُﻣ ُﺮ‬ ‫ﺑﺘَ ْﻮﺻﻴﻠِﻬﻤﺎ إِﱃ » ُﻣ ْﻜ ِﺜ ٍﺮ« أَﻣي ِر »ﻣ ﱠﻜ َﺔ«‪َ .‬ﻓﻤﺘَﻰ أَﺑْﻄﺄَ ْت َﻋﻨ ُﻬ ْﻢ ﺗ ْﻠﻚ ا ْﻟ َﻮﻇﻴ َﻔ ُﺔ ا ْﻟ ُﻤ َﱰَﺗﱢﺒَ ُﺔ ﻟ ُﻬ ْﻢ — ِﻣﻦ‬ ‫ال َمﺎل واﻟ ﱠﻄ َﻌﺎ ِم — ﻋﺎ َد ﻫﺬا اﻷﻣيرُ إِﱃ ﺗَ ْﺮ ِوﻳ ِﻊ اﻟﺤﺎ ﱢج وﺗَ ْﺨ ِﻮﻳﻔ ِﻬ ْﻢ واﻧْ ِﺘﻬﺎ ِب ﻣﺎ َﻣ َﻌ ُﻬ ْﻢ ِﺑﺴﺒَ ِﺐ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ ُﻤ ُﻜﻮ ِس‪.‬‬ ‫َواﺗﱠ َﻔ َﻖ َﻟﻨﺎ — ﻣﻦ ذﻟﻚ — أَ ْن َو َﺻ ْﻠﻨَﺎ » ُﺟ ﱠﺪة«‪ ،‬ﻓﺄ ْﻣ َﺴ ْﻜﻨَﺎ ﺑﻬﺎ ِﺧﻼ َل ﻣﺎ ُﺧﻮ ِﻃ َﺐ » ُﻣ ْﻜ ِﺜ ٌﺮ«‬ ‫اﻷَِﻣيرُ‪ ،‬ﻓﻮ َر َد أَ ْﻣ ُﺮ ُه ِﺑﺄَ ْن ﻳَ ْﻀ َﻤ َﻦ ا ْﻟﺤﺎ ﱡج‪ :‬ﺑ ْﻌ ُﻀ ُﻬ ْﻢ ﺑَ ْﻌ ًﻀﺎ‪ ،‬وﻳَﺪﺧﻠﻮا إﱃ َﺣ َﺮ ِم ِﷲ‪ ،‬ﻓ ِﺈ ْن و َر َد ال َمﺎ ُل‬ ‫واﻟ ﱠﻄ َﻌﺎ ُم اﻟ ﱠﻠ َﺬا ِن ِﺑ َﺮ ْﺳ ِﻤ ِﻪ ِﻣ ْﻦ ِﻗﺒَ ِﻞ » َﺻﻼ ِح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳ ِﻦ« َوإِﻻﱠ ﻓﻬﻮ ﻻ ﻳَ ْﱰُ ُك ﻣﺎ َﻟ ُﻪ ِﻗﺒَ َﻞ اﻟﺤﺎ ﱢج‪ .‬ﻫﺬا‬ ‫َﻟ ْﻔ ُﻈ ُﻪ وﻛﻼ ُﻣ ُﻪ‪ ،‬ﻛﺄَ ﱠن َﺣ َﺮ َم ِﷲ ﻣيرا ٌث ﺑﻴَ ِﺪ ِه‪ُ ،‬ﻣ َﺤ ﱠﻠ ٌﻞ أَن ﻳﺘ َﻘﺎ َﴇ أَ ْﺟ َﺮ ُه ﻣ َﻦ ا ْﻟ َﺤﺎ ﱢج‪َ .‬ﻓ ُﺴﺒْ َﺤﺎ َن‬ ‫ُﻣ َﻐ ﱢير اﻟ ﱡﺴﻨَ ِﻦ و ُﻣﺒَ ﱢﺪ ِﻟﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫و َﻗ ْﺪ َﺟﻌ َﻞ َﻟ ُﻪ »ﺻﻼ ُح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳ ِﻦ« — ﺑَ َﺪ ًﻻ ِﻟﺘﺄْﻣين ا ْﻟ َﺤﺎ ﱢج — أَ ْﻟ َﻔ ْﻲ ِدﻳﻨَﺎر وأَ ْﻟ َﻔ ْﻲ إِ ْر َد ﱟب ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ا ْﻟ َﻘ ْﻤ ِﺢ‪َ ،‬ﺣﺎﳽ إِ ْﻗﻄﺎﻋﺎ ٍت أُ ْﻗ ِﻄ َﻌﻬﺎ ِﺑﺼ ِﻌﻴ ِﺪ ِﻣ ْ َﴫ‪ ،‬و ِﺑ ِﺠﻬﺔ ا ْﻟﻴَ َﻤ ِﻦ ﺑﻬﺬا اﻟ ﱠﺮ ْﺳﻢ ال َمﺬ ُﻛﻮ ِر‪.‬‬ ‫و َﻟ ْﻮﻻَ َﻣ ِﻐﻴ ُﺐ ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠ َﻄﺎ ِن ا ْﻟ َﻌﺎ ِد ِل‪َ » :‬ﺻﻼَ ِح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳﻦ« ﺑﺠﻬ ِﺔ اﻟ ﱠﺸﺎم — ﰲ ُﺣﺮو ٍب ﻟ ُﻪ ﻫﻨﺎ َك‬ ‫ﻣ َﻊ ا ِﻹ ْﻓ ِﺮﻧْ ِﺞ — لمﺎ َﺻ َﺪ َر ﻋ ْﻦ أَ ِﻣي ِر » َﻣ ﱠﻜ َﺔ« — ﻫﺬا — ﻣﺎ َﺻ َﺪ َر ِﻣ ْﻦ ُﻇ ْﻠ ِﻢ ا ْﻟ َﺤﺎ ﱢج‪.‬‬ ‫)‪ُ (7‬ﻗ ﱠﻄﺎ ُع اﻟ ﱡﻄ ُﺮ ِق‬ ‫ﻓﺄَ َﺣ ﱡﻖ ﺑﻼ ِد ِﷲ ﺑﺄَ ْن ﻳُ َﻄ ﱢﻬ َﺮﻫﺎ اﻟ ﱠﺴﻴْ ُﻒ وﻳَ ْﻐ ِﺴ َﻞ أَ ْرﺟﺎ َﺳﻬﺎ وأَ ْدﻧَﺎ َﺳﻬﺎ — ﺑﺎﻟ ﱢﺪ َﻣﺎ ِء ا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺴ ُﻔﻮ َﻛ ِﺔ ﰲ‬ ‫ﺳﺒﻴ ِﻞ ِﷲ — ﻫﺬ ِه ا ْﻟ ِﺒﻼَ ُد اﻟ ِﺤ َﺠﺎ ِزﻳﱠ ُﺔ‪ِ ،‬ﻟﻤﺎ ُﻫ ْﻢ ﻋﻠﻴ ِﻪ ﻣﻦ َﻓ ﱢﻚ ُﻋ َﺮا ا ِﻹ ْﺳﻼَ ِم‪ ،‬وا ْﺳ ِﺘ ْﺤﻼَ ِل أَ ْﻣﻮا ِل‬ ‫اﻟ َﺤﺎ ﱢج و ِد َﻣﺎ ِﺋﻬﻢ‪ .‬وﻗﺪ اﺗﱠ َﺨﺬُو ُه َﻣﻌﻴ َﺸ َﺔ َﺣ َﺮا ٍم‪ ،‬و َﺟﻌﻠُﻮ ُه ﺳﺒﺒًﺎ إِﱃ ا ْﺳ ِﺘﻼَ ِب اﻷَﻣﻮال وﻧَ ْﻬ ِﺒﻬﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫و ُﻣﺼﺎ َد َر ِة اﻟ ُﺤ ﱠﺠﺎ ِج ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬و َ ْﴐ ِب اﻟ ﱢﺬ ﱠﻟ ِﺔ وا ْﻟ َﻤ ْﺴ َﻜ ِﻨﺔ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﻢ‪َ .‬ﻓ ُﻬ ْﻢ ﻳَ ْﻌﺘَ ِﱪُو َن ال ُم ْﺴ ِﻠ ِﻤي َن ﻛﺄَﻧﱠ ُﻬ ْﻢ‬ ‫أَﻫ ُﻞ ِذ ﱠﻣﺔ َﻟ َﺪﻳْ ِﻬ ْﻢ‪ ،‬وﻳَ ْﺴﺘَ ْﺠ ِﻠﺒُﻮ َن أَﻣﻮا َﻟ ُﻬ ْﻢ — ِﺑﻜ ﱢﻞ ِﺣﻴ َﻠﺔ وﺳﺒﺐ — َوﻳَ ْﺮ َﻛﺒُﻮ َن َﻃ َﺮا ِﺋ َﻖ ﻣﻦ اﻟ ﱡﻈ ْﻠﻢ‬ ‫ﻟﻢ ﻳُ ْﺴ َﻤ ْﻊ ﺑ ِﻤﺜْ ِﻠ َﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻻ َرﻳْ َﺐ أَ ﱠن ﻫﺬا اﻟ ﱡﺴ ْﻠ َﻄﺎ َن ا ْﻟﻌﺎ ِد َل »ﺻﻼ َح اﻟ ﱢﺪﻳ ِﻦ« اﻟﺬي ﻗﺪ ذ َﻛ ْﺮﻧَﺎ ِﺳيرَﺗَ ُﻪ و َﻣﻨﺎ ِﻗﺒَ ُﻪ —‬ ‫َﻟ ْﻮ َﻛﺎ َن ﻟ ُﻪ أَ ْﻋ َﻮا ٌن ﻋ َﲆ اﻟ َﺤ ﱢﻖ ﻻ ْﺳﺘَﻄﺎ َع أَن ﻳُﻨ ِﻘﺬَ ال ُم ْﺴ ِﻠﻤي َن ِﺑ َﺠ ِﻤﻴ ِﻞ ﻧَ َﻈ ِﺮ ِه‪ ،‬و َﻟ ِﻄﻴﻒ ُﺻﻨْ ِﻌ ِﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫‪49‬‬