The World Cheese Book

Arzúa-Ulloa DOP Bauma Carrat Beato de Tábara an elegant round cheese with a waxy Toni Chueca, with Rose Heras, left the santiago Lucas Leon and his sons sPain clean yellow rind and soft almost city in 1980 to make cheese using milk shepherd their own flock in the sierra squishy, smooth interior, it remains the from their own herds, but now focuses de la Culebra and make this artisan most popular within galicia. Various on making the cheeses and acquiring cheese, inspired by the illustrated artisan producers near the river Ulla excellent milk from a single farmer. manuscripts of the monastery at san make it, hence its name. TasTing noTes Fragile and striking, the Martín de Tábara, by hand. TasTing noTes although the paste is deep black ash rind protects the bright TasTing noTes Cool on the palate, its unexpectedly mild, more like butter white smooth, moist interior. The paste stone-gray rind and aroma of cellars than cheese, it is deeply aromatic, and is fresh yet luxuriously creamy, with a take you to dark underground spaces, its sweet, milky flavors develop with distinct but not strong goaty taste. while the bright white paste brings you quiet confidence on the palate. How To enjoy Ripe tomatoes alone are back to the meadows. an elegant and How To enjoy Relish its gentle flavors excellent partners to Carrat, and its exceptional cheese. simply on breadsticks, or spread the perfect Catalan partner would be How To enjoy To be true to the monastic cheese like butter onto wholemeal, escalivada—grilled eggplants, green purity of the cheese’s inspiration, it is sourdough, or pumpernickel. Pairs well peppers, and aragón olives—with a best appreciated on its own, or after with a white Ribeiro wine. fruity white wine such as alella. dinner with a refreshing Riesling. SPAIN Galicia SPAIN Borreda, Cataluña SPAIN San Martin de Tábara, Castilla-León 149 Age 15–30 days Age 15–21 days Age 60–100 days Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–7lb 11oz Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), square Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb (500g–3.5kg), round Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (500g–1kg), cylinder Size D. 4–10in (10–26cm), H. 2–5in (3cm) Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm), H. 21⁄2–3in (5–12cm) Milk Goat (6–7cm) Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Producer Formatge Bauma SL Classification Hard Producer Various Producer Santiago Leon Lucas

Benabarre Benasque Cabrales DOP sPAin And PorTuGAl Blessed with an absolutely stunning Produced in the stunning Benasque A notorious strictly artisan blue cheese setting, this dairy sits in the foothills of valley in the heart of the Pyrenees, also matured in the damp, mold-rich caves the Pyrenees facing the valleys of Aran, known as the “Valle escondido”, or of the rugged, isolated Picos de europa where its herds of Granadina goats hidden valley, on a family-run farm. mountains, where mixed herds pasture. pasture. The cheese is shaped like a The cattle graze on natural mountain its original maple-leaf covering has pumpkin and possesses the size and pastures, supplemented with a diet of now been replaced by green foil. weight of a small rock. dry food, ensuring that milk quality TAsTinG noTes The thin, soft gray rind TAsTinG noTes Matured in cellars remains consistent year-round. envelops a creamy paste that is heavily ventilated by clean mountain air, the TAsTinG noTes Hand-molded and slowly streaked with blue veins and punctuated natural molds on the rind develop matured in underground cellars, it is with irregular cavities. Although the aromas of fresh mushroom. The paste moist yet crumbly, with a hint of salt cheese’s aroma is a touch fetid, a keen is compact, revealing flavors of and a full-bodied strong, tangy finish. creaminess comes through. hazelnuts, acorns, and wild herbs. How To enjoy A well-rounded cheese How To enjoy This very strong cheese is How To enjoy serve simply, accompanied best served simply with fresh crusty best sampled at the end of a meal with by a good red somontano wine and a white bread and a glass of the local a dry Asturian cider, as even young bowl of dark Aragón olives. somontano wine. Cabrales will overwhelm most pairings. 150 SPAIN Benabarre, Aragón SPAIN Huesca, Aragón SPAIN Asturias Age 14–60 days Age 3–6 months Age 3 months minimum Weight and Shape 14oz–1lb 5oz Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), round Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz–8lb 13oz (400–600g) or 51⁄2–61⁄2lb (2.5–3kg), square Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2–3in (5–7cm) (600g–4kg), drum Size L. 41⁄2–9in (11–23cm), W. 41⁄2–9in Milk Cow Size D. 6–81⁄2in (15–22cm), H. 3–4in (11–23cm), H. 2–3in (5–8cm) Classification Hard (7–10cm) Milk Goat Producer Quesería el Benasques Milk Cow, ewe, and goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue Producer Quesos Benabarre Producer Various

Cabra Rufino Camerano DOP Cañarejal For 40 years the Rufino family has Also known as La Aulaga Camerano, This artisan torta, a contemporary SpAin been aging these five-day-old tortas. this is the brainchild of Monica northern version of the more famous each piece is methodically turned, Figuerola. Shaped in traditional wicker Torta La Serena, was an initiative of washed, and checked daily. The best are molds and aged for up to two months, the local sheep-farming Santos family. made in the fall, when the goats enjoy this is a resolutely artisan cheese made it is produced using milk from the the local acorns, making the cheese only in spring and summer. Santos’ flock of robust Awassi sheep, particularly creamy. its full name is TASTing noTeS The natural mold has a which graze the local grasslands. Queso de Cabra Rufino. powerful aroma of mushrooms. The TASTing noTeS Made with thistle rennet, TASTing noTeS Seasonality and aging texture of the cheese itself is close, and this is the creamiest of all the Spanish affect the cheese, which ranges from dissolves on the palate into subtle tortas. Very aromatic, with soft, earthy dense and compact with a crumbly yet flavors of goat and mountain herbs. flavors, it has a typical bitter finish. moist paste and a strong, genuine spicy How To enjoy eaten as a dessert with How To enjoy open the thin rind to bite, to unctuous in the autumn. honey, grapes, or quince when young, or expose the silky interior, and scoop out How To enjoy ideally, relaxing in the served simply with toasted pistachios, with a teaspoon or breadsticks. it is local Bar Rufino, with country-style country bread, and a young Rioja wine. also delicious melted on a rare fillet bread and a strong wine or beer. steak served with caramelized onions. SPAIN Olivia de la Frontera, Extremadura SPAIN Munilla, La Rioja SPAIN Pollos, Castilla-León 151 Age 60–120 days Age 7 days fresh; 60 days cured Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), drum Weight and Shape 9oz–1lb 2oz Size Various Size D. 41⁄2–6in (11.5–15cm), (250–500g), round Milk Goat H. 2–4in (5.5–10cm) Size D. 4–5in (10–12cm), H. 2–21⁄2in Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat (5–6cm) Producer Quesos Artesanos Rufino Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe Producer Quesería la Aulaga Classification Semi-soft Producer Cañarejal SL

Cantabria DOP Casín DOP Castellano sPAiN ANd PorTugAL Also known as Queso Nata de Casina cattle feed on lush, mountain Little known and understood mainly by Cantabria, this was originally made in meadow to provide milk for one of the its brand name, Castellano cheese can the Cóbreces Cistercian monastery, but oldest cheeses in Asturias. The unique actually be of outstanding character is now produced by numerous small and recipe involves repeated rolling of the when made well because the Castilla- medium-sized family dairies using milk curds during the first week, before they León region produces the best, from the abundant dairy cattle found are kneaded into shape to producing creamiest ewe’s milk in spain. pasturing in sheltered green valleys. Casín’s peculiar grainy paste. TAsTiNg NoTes when aged for six months TAsTiNg NoTes its smooth waxy rind TAsTiNg NoTes with a strong smell that and made with raw milk, it gains hides a pale interior, with a dense, suggests rancid butter, the taste is very piquancy and a smooth texture that springy texture and a mellow, sweet, fiery and oily on the palate. The dense, reveals a distinct caramelized onion and buttery flavor, sometimes with creamy-looking paste is oddly grainy. flavor of sheep and an intense finish. a tart finish. How To eNjoy Producers imprint their How To eNjoy An apéritif cheese ideal How To eNjoy eat on crusty toast with name on the cheese with a wooden with bold red wines such as somontano chestnut honey, quince, or apple jelly. stamp, making Casín a very attractive or Priorato, it is also excellent with Also ideal picnic fare with a salad and option to serve whole on a cheeseboard. unsalted nuts and dried fruit, quince a dry white or young red wine. Best enjoyed with beer or cider. jelly or paste, or fresh pears and apples. 152 SPAIN La Cavada, Cantabria SPAIN Asturias SPAIN Castilla-León Age Minimum 15 days Age 60 days Age 2–6 months Weight and Shape 14oz–6lb Weight and Shape 9oz–21⁄4lb (250g–1kg), Weight and Shape 41⁄2–61⁄2lb (400g–2.8kg), round or brick hemisphere (2–3kg), drum Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) (pictured) Size D. 4–8in (10–20cm), H. 11⁄2–3in Size D. 41⁄2-71⁄2in (11–19cm), H. 3–4in Milk Cow (4–7cm) (8–10cm) Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Milk Ewe Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Producer Various Producer Various

Cebreiro Flor de Guîa Gamonedo DOP Reminiscent of a chef’s hat or stout An exceptional and very rare cheese, A blue mountain cheese overshadowed SPAin mushroom in shape, Cebreiro is rarely curiously only ever made by women, it by its neighbor Cabrales (see p150), but found away from its mountain home in is named Flor de Guîa (thistle flower) with quite an individual character: Galicia. The characteristic shape is after the local thistle used to coagulate harder pressed, elegant-looking rind, less achieved when the curd is put in a bag the milk. Shaped with a grass belt, the blue veining, and lightly smoked before and a hoop slipped over the top to hold cheese develops gently rounded sides. placing in the natural curing caves. it in position; as the hoop is not tall TASTinG noTeS Creamiest of all Canarian TASTinG noTeS This cheese blues lightly enough, the curd spills over the top. cheeses, Flor de Guîa has an unctuous, in patches nearer to the hard dry rind TASTinG noTeS The fresh white paste is rich texture that melts in the mouth, and has a gentle spikiness, revealing moist and close-textured but granular. releasing its mildly acidic, aromatic hints of damp mushroom, salt, and a it has a fresh, lightly acidic yogurt flavor and the typical bitterness of nutty aftertaste of hazelnuts. tang, with an aroma of warm butter. thistle rennet on the finish. How To enjoy Relish in the rustic flavor How To enjoy Serve with honey and fruit How To enjoy Complements fruity white of a cheese made in shepherds’ cabins jams and preserves, or use in gratins wines from Galicia, tropical fruit such on the mountain passes of the Picos de and béchamel sauce. Cebreiro happily as bananas, and fruit jams such as europa. Gamonedo del Valle is a pairs with chilled young Albariño wine. those made from berries. A rare treat. milder, more accomplished cheese. SPAIN Lugo, Galicia SPAIN Gran Canaria, Islas Canarias SPAIN Cangas de Onis and Onis, Asturias 153 Age 3–7 days Age 2–3 weeks Age 3–5 months Weight and Shape 10oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 41⁄2–11lb (2–5kg), Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–15lb 7oz (300g–2kg), chef’s hat wheel (500g–7kg), drum Size D. 31⁄2–6in (9–15cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 81⁄2–12in (22–30cm), H. 11⁄2–21⁄2in Size D. 4–12in (10–30cm), H. 2½–6in Milk Cow (4–6cm) (6–15cm) Classification Fresh Milk Ewe and cow Milk Cow, with some ewe or goat Producer Queixerias Castelo de Branas; Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue Carmen Arrojo Valcarcel Xan Busto Producer Various Producer Various

Mahón DO a clOser lOOk granted denomination of origin status in 1985, Mahón comes Mahón is lovingly nurtured and from the Balearic island of Menorca. the tiny island has a matured by the skillful afinadores colorful history, with invasions by the Carthegians, romans, who buy the generic young cheeses arabs, French, and lastly the British in the 18th century, who and age them according to their own introduced the Friesian cow. individual methods. spain and portugal Port of Mahón, Menorca, from which the TasTing nOTes at 20–60 days it is interior supple, buttery. and mild; semi- cheese takes its name. cured at 2–5 months, the flavor THe racks the cheeses are stored on wooden increases and the texture racks in underground caves where the afinador records show that Mahón was becomes firmer; cured, or carefully controls the temperature, humidity, and traded around the Mediterranean añejo, at 5–10 months, it flow of fresh air. from about the 13th century. is hard and slightly However, it owes its international granular, not unlike reputation to the local merchants parmigiano-reggiano who, in the late 1800s, started taking (see pp130–131), and the farmers’ cheese in exchange for has an aroma and goods. Known as recogedor-afinador, taste of peaches with gatherer-ripeners, they ripened the a sea-salt finish. young cheeses in underground caves where the airflow, temperature, and green-labeled 154 humidity provided the cheese with a Mahón is made by hand unique microclimate. this practice from raw milk on small continues, with about 300 family- farms and finished by an owned dairy farms selling their afinador, whose skill is to milk to the big cooperatives. bring out the best in each cheese. today, the best-known afinador the harder, more piquant style is nicolas Cardona. with its red label and bright orange rind is made in cooperatives and has an unexpectedly sharp, mouth- puckering bite. HOw TO enjOy traditionally served as an appetizer, drizzled with olive oil and topped with a sprig of fresh rosemary. serve it alongside a glass of sherry, which brings out the personality of the cheese. However, like all hard cheeses, it is extremely versatile and is used in many recipes from the spanish omelet to tapas and pastries. the more matured or cured Mahón pairs well with beer or even sake (Japanese rice wine). SPAIN Menorca, Balearic Islands Age 20 days–5 months Weight and Shape 3lb 4oz (1.5kg), square “cushion” Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Classification Hard Producer Various

All aged Mahón is speckled with small, irregular holes, caused by the fermentation that happens as the cheese ripens. Cloth pressing The young artisanal cheese is wrapped in cloth (fogasser) and tied by its corners. This is pressed manually, forcing out excess whey and forming the cheese into its distinct “cushion” shape. The upper surface of matured artisanal Mahón bears the pattern of the creases and folds of the fogasser. Spain Exterior 155 The ocher-yellow color of the rind is created not by bacteria but by rubbing butter, paprika, and olive oil into the rind to enhance its appearance and prevent mold.

Garrotxa Herreño Ibérico SPain and POrTuGal One of the new generation of Spanish Similar cheeses are produced all over imprinted with the marks of the artisan cheeses to come to prominence these rugged islands under the various woven-basket mold, ibérico is a blend in recent years, this is notable for its island names, but this has the most of cow’s, goat’s, and ewe’s milk, typical subtle goaty flavor and dark gray interesting texture and flavor. when of many traditional Spanish cheeses, velveteen rind, or pell florida. First smoked, there are beautiful burnished and makes up more than 50 percent of produced in 1981 by a single maker, lines on the rind from the racking. the nation’s consumption of cheese. Garrotxa is now made by several other artisan cheesemakers in the region. TaSTinG nOTeS it is bright white and TaSTinG nOTeS The rind is often colored TaSTinG nOTeS a fresh slice, unusually refreshingly acidic when young, while to indicate age, and the blend of milks chalky for Spanish cheese, invokes smoked Herreño is a satisfying balance brings together the best of each one: memories of mountain herbs, walnuts, of light smoke, usually fig or prickly creamy and mellow from the cow, sweet and mushrooms; the lingering finish pear branches, and delicate flavor. and nutty from the ewe, and has distinct creamy overtones of goat. HOw TO enjOy when young, it pairs well herbaceous notes from the goat. HOw TO enjOy ideal for tapas or at the with white and rosé wines; aged it is HOw TO enjOy The flavor changes subtly end of a meal, served with almonds, better with red wines. excellent lightly with the seasons, but ibérico is always walnuts, and a robust white Priorat. melted and served with red or green delicious in a toasted sandwich or used mojo sauces or in the local cheesecake. for a gratin, whatever time of year. 156 SPAIN Cataluña SPAIN El Hierro, Islas Canarias SPAIN Castilla-La Mancha; Castilla León Age 2–4 months Age 10–60 days Age 1 month minimum Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg,) round Weight and Shape 12oz–8lb 13oz Weight and Shape 21⁄4–7lb 11oz Size D. 6in (15cm), 3in (H. 7cm) (350g–4kg), cylinder (1–31⁄2kg), drum Milk Goat Size D. 31⁄2–10in (8.5–25.5cm), Size D. 31⁄2–81⁄2in (9–22cm), H. 3–5in Classification Semi-soft H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in (6–8.5cm) (7–12cm) Producer Various Milk Goat, cow, and ewe Milk Cow, goat, and ewe Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Producer Sociedad Cooperativa Ganaderos Producer Various de El Hierro; Valverde

Ibores DOP Idiazábal DOP Liébana DOP a rustic cheese whose roots lie in the This ancient cheese comes from the Small cheeses (quesucos) are made in SPain migrating herds of native Verata and Basque mountains, where shepherds each village in the foothills of the Picos Retinta goats and the wild vegetation spent summer in the high pastures, de europa. Mainly fresh or semi-soft, and oak forests of the area, it is found before returning in the fall with their sometimes smoked, they are made with either plain or brushed with olive oil cheeses. Stored in the rafters of the cow’s or sometimes ewe’s or goat’s milk. and pimentón (smoked paprika). shepherds’ huts over the summer, the TaSTing noTeS Lemony when fresh, but TaSTing noTeS The firm white paste is cheese took on a wood-smoke flavor. most are supple, buttery, and aromatic, rich with aromas of broom, lavender, TaSTing noTeS Hard and chewy, with with a hint of caramel when made with and thyme, while the copper-colored tiny holes and a coppery rind, idiázabal ewe’s milk. The rinds are typically thin, pimentón rind imparts a warmth to the is smoked with beech wood, adding a rough, and straw-colored, or bright cheese’s tangy finish. light smokiness to the distinctive white if fresh. Smoking adds piquancy. How To enjoy Sprinkle a slice with caramel sweetness of the ewe’s milk. How To enjoy Serve on a cheeseboard pimentón, lightly toast, and serve with artisan varieties are a rare treat. alongside dried fruits and nuts, and a an apéritif or as a light supper with How To enjoy Try a Basque recipe such selection of young wines. young cheeses salad. ideal with a crisp dry white wine as squid and idiazábal risotto, or serve are delicious with mountain honey. and unsalted nuts. simply with Txacoli or a Basque cider. SPAIN Caceres, Extremadura SPAIN Navarra SPAIN Cantabria 157 Age 2 months minimum Age 3–6 months Age 2 weeks minimum Weight and Shape 1lb 7oz–21⁄2lb Weight and Shape 21⁄4–61⁄2lb (1–3kg), Weight and Shape 14oz–1lb 2oz (650g–1.2kg), drum drum (400g–500g), round Size D. 41⁄2–6in (11–15cm), H. 2–31⁄2in Size D. 4–12in (10–30cm), H. 3–5in Size D. 3–5in (8–12cm), H. 1–4in (5–9cm) (8–12cm) (3–10cm) Milk Goat Milk Ewe Milk Cow and occasionally ewe and goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Flavor-added Classification Fresh or semi-soft Producer Queserías de las Villuercas; Producer Various Producer Various Berrocales Trujillanos

Majorero DOP Monte Enebro Los Montes de Toledo SPain anD PoRTugaL The scrubby desert landscape of when most would be retiring, Rafael This is the innovation of a spirited Fuerteventura nourishes the Majorero Báez chose to create this pata de mulo, individual, anna Maria Rubio. The goats that produce this exceptional or mule’s-hoof-shaped, goat’s cheese, Toledo Mountains neighbor ibores, cheese. The rind, rubbed with olive oil, with its distinctive rind covered in gray where goats dominate, so local goat bears the imprint pattern of a palm and black molds. it was the first farmers joined the cooperative and frond belt. Some are rubbed with either modern artisan cheese in Spain to gain provide milk for this soft, unique torta. paprika or gofio (roasted corn flour). international recognition. TaSTing noTeS a clean aroma and silky TaSTing noTeS Supple to firm, Majorero TaSTing noTeS Dense curds are gently texture with flavors that vary with the ranges from creamy fresh with a subtle compressed, and the flavor matures seasons from more acidic with a touch goaty flavor, through to a more robust over time from a light citric creaminess of salt to sweeter during the spring, it nutty, almondy sweetness. to an assertive, pungent bite. is a mild cheese. How To enjoy Traditionally grated into How To enjoy Savor with muscatel How To enjoy Sublime on crusty white vegetable soups or summer salads, and dessert wine, add to beetroot salad, or bread with fruits and nuts: pistachios, served with a minerally white island fry in tempura batter and serve with apples, and quince paste. Pair with wine. young Majorero makes a superb orange blossom honey, accompanied by fruity white wine or chilled dry fino. fondue flavored with orange zest. a light, white La Mancha wine. 158 SPAIN Fuerteventura, Islas Canarias SPAIN Avila, Castilla-León SPAIN Navalmorales, Castilla-La Mancha Age 20 days minimum Age 6–8 weeks Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb–13lb 4oz Weight and Shape 3lb (1.4kg), mule’s hoof Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), round (1–6kg), round Size L. 9in (23cm), W. 12cm (5in), H. 21⁄2in Size D. 61⁄2in (17cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 6–14in (15–35cm), H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in (61⁄2cm) Milk Goat (6-9cm) Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Classification Natural rind Producer La Merendera Sociedad Classification Hard Producer Queserias del Tietar Cooperativa Producer SAT Ganaderos de Fuerteventura

Murcia al Vino DOP Palmero DOP Pasiego de las Garmillas Spain’s hot and arid region of Murcia Spain’s largest cheese comes from the SPaIn has a growing cheese industry based on greenest of the Canary Islands, where a fragile primitive cheese made the exceptionally productive native the Palmero goat feeds on rich pasture, without a mold that was originally goats, Murciano-granadina, honed by moving steadily up the slopes as the from the valley of Pas, it is now made genetic selection over generations. This weather warms. to more contemporary standards and cheese is washed with local jumilla TaSTIng noTeS Diverse and lush grazing available at the weekly market in the and yecla red wines. gives this lightly smoked cheese a rich town of ampuero and beyond. TaSTIng noTeS a washed-curd cheese flavor. Palmero is pleasantly crumbly, with a slightly elastic texture and salty, earthy, and lightly acidic, with a TaSTIng noTeS So fresh that the pale distinct, aromatic flavor, with hints of toasted aroma. rind has barely formed, its interior is almonds from the rich milk and a How To enjoy as Palmero breaks up soft and fatty, with an aroma of fresh slightly winey, fermenting fruit finish. easily, it is commonly used in local yogurt and mountain streams. How To enjoy Try the cheese in salads, cuisine grated into the mojo sauces or lightly fried, or grilled on toast and sliced alongside fish, vegetable, and How To enjoy Its delicate, sweet flavors served with the young white or rosé potatoes. also good on its own with the work well with crusty bread, salted wines from jumilla and yecla. local mineral-rich Malvasia wines. anchovies, and piquillo peppers, accompanied by a very cold dry cider. Used for the local quesada pasiega. SPAIN Jumilla, Murcia SPAIN La Palma, Islas Canarias SPAIN Ampuero, Cantabria 159 Age 3 weeks minimum Age 1–3 months Age 15–20 days Weight and Shape 10oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz–33lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), flat disk (300g–2 kg), drum (7–15kg), wheel Size D. 5½in (14cm), H. ¾in (2cm) Size D. 3–7in (7–18cm), H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in Size D. 5–231⁄2in (12–60cm), H. 21⁄2–6in Milk Cow (6–9cm) (6–15cm) Classification Fresh Milk Goat Milk Goat Producers Queso Las Garmillas Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various

sPaiN aND PoRTugal Pata de Mulo Payoyo Peña Blanca de Corrales Named “mule’s hoof” because of its set up in 1997 by 14 farmers, this shape, this was traditionally molded by cooperative makes cheeses using milk assertive ewe’s milk cheese with a rind hand in cheesecloth, then rolled on a from native Payoyo goats and rare-breed of red and ochre molds, this is an table until the typical shape was grazalema sheep that roam the green original recipe using lactic coagulation, achieved. Thankfully, since the late pastures of the sierra de grazalema, and its makers very successfully 1990s, production of this disappearing 900m (2,750ft) above sea level. capture the terroir of the sierra de cheese has been reinvigorated. TasTiNg NoTes The strictly artisan espadas where it is made. TasTiNg NoTes a rounded flavor, grainy methods used mean that even the texture, nutty nose, light oil on the rennet derives from the Payoyo goat. TasTiNg NoTes The aroma is reminiscent palate, and persistent finish are typical The plain rind can be coated with lard of a Cabrales, but the dense paste has of this very Castilian aged ewe’s cheese, or paprika, and it has a firm texture the texture of fresh curds, with hints of with its straw-colored wrinkled rind. that reveals a soft, rounded nutty taste, leather, caramelized onions, and wool. How To eNjoy attractive for slicing into with hints of toffee. salads or displayed on a cheeseboard, it How To eNjoy ideal with an apéritif. How To eNjoy its restrained piquancy pairs beautifully with young red or rosé serve with almonds and a Manzanilla works well with other Mediterranean wines of Ribera del Duero or Navarra. dry sherry or a cold refreshing beer. flavors: fino or palo cortado sherry, black olives, extra virgin olive oil, and fresh crusty bread. 160 SPAIN Castilla-León SPAIN Sierra de Grazalema, Andalucía SPAIN Almedíjar, Valencia Age 2–6 months Age 6–12 weeks Age 90 days Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), flattened Weight and Shape 21⁄4–51⁄2lb (1–2.5kg), Weight and Shape 5lb (2.2kg), cylindrical oval log cylinder Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 3in (8cm) Size L. 9in (23cm), W. 5in (13cm), H. 3in Size D. 5–61⁄2in (12–17cm), H. 3–4in Milk Ewe (8cm) (8–10cm) Classification Hard Milk Ewe Milk Goat Producer Quesería Los Corrales Classification Hard Classification Hard Producer Various Producer Quesos Artesanales de Villaluenga SL

La Peral Picón Bejes Tresviso Roncal DOP sPAin DOP This relatively modern foil-wrapped Records for this Pyrenean sheep’s blue cheese from Asturias is made by From the villages of Bejes and Tresviso cheese date back to the 13th century, the third generation of creator Antonio in the Picos de Europa, this ancient and detail control of the herds as they León’s family. Production remains small blue cheese has the hallmark sharp were moved between their summer and scale and consistent, resulting in an flavor characteristic of cheeses made in winter pastures, and routes up and accessibly priced, very pleasant cheese. these high peaks. Abandoned mines down the Roncal valley. The cheese is TAsTing noTEs A sticky yellow rind with and natural caves provide excellent pressed, then aged in cloth. a pale yellow interior lightly inked with damp space for curing. TAsTing noTEs Dense with a smooth blue veins, it emits a gentle buttery straw- to gray-colored rind that bears smell. The shiny curd-like cheese has a TAsTing noTEs The light gray rind with the imprint of the cloth. with age, there creamy salty flavor that gradually orange overtones conceals an interior may be hints of dried fruit, a growing develops into a clean, fresh mild blue. veined with dense blue streaks. A piquancy, and a lingering aftertaste. How To Enjoy savor this cheese with pungent blue cheese with a distinctive How To Enjoy serve simply with crusty blackberries and walnuts, accompanied balance of bite, butter, and salt. white bread and a good navarran red by either an Asturian cider or a Pedro wine or cider. Artichoke gratin with Ximenez sherry. How To Enjoy sprinkle with ground Roncal is a popular local dish. hazelnuts or serve with prunes; pair with muscatel or a sweet red Priorat. SPAIN Illas, Asturias SPAIN Cantabria SPAIN Roncal, Navarra 161 Age 60–150 days Age 3–6 months Age 4 months minimum Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), tall cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–61⁄2lb Weight and Shape 21⁄4–61⁄2lb (1–3kg), Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (500g–3kg), drum drum Milk Cow with ewe’s cream Size D. 4–8in (10–21cm), H. 21⁄2–5in Size D. 6–8in (15–20cm), H. 4–41⁄2in Classification Blue (6–13cm) (10–11cm) Producer Herederos de Antonio León Milk Cow, goat, and ewe Milk Ewe Classification Blue Classification Hard Producer Various Producer Various

Manchego DOC Manchego takes its name from the dry plateau of La Mancha, south of Madrid and not far from Toledo. Baptized by the Arabs, Al Mansha (land without water), La Mancha is a vast, dry flat region with few trees, scorched by temperatures of up to 122°F (50°C) and minimal rainfall. It is a magnificent part of Spain with a sense of timelessness and history, dotted with old ruins, scrawny sheep, and the windmills made famous by Don Quixote. Modern irrigation has meant vast sheep is lifted off its back legs so the acres of vines, olive groves, milk from the swollen udder collects sunflowers, and crops have replaced in the bucket, yielding but a few liters much of the indigenous shrubs, of milk each a day. Yet every drop is acorns, blackthorn, vetch, and wild imbued with the essence of the wild grasses of the dehesa (uncultivated thyme, aromatic herbs, and withered land). However, sufficient natural, acorns that form their diet. The uncultivated land still exists in the resulting thick, sweet, aromatic milk mountains, woodlands, around is what makes Manchego unique. riverbanks, and on the plains, to SpAIn AnD pOrTUgAL provide summer grazing for the TasTing nOTes The depth and a ClOser lOOk hardy sheep, whose thick, aromatic complexity of flavor depends on age, but milk gives Manchego its character. all Manchego has an unmistakable Most Manchego is now made with In fall and winter, their diet is richness reminiscent of Brazil nuts and pasteurized milk in modern factories supplemented with sweet tendrils caramel, with a distinct aroma of lanolin that comply with EU regulations. from vines and the stubble from and roast lamb, and a slightly salty However, great care has been taken crops and hay. finish. The texture is dry yet creamy. It to ensure the finished cheese is as can be slightly oily on the surface and close to traditional handmade cheeses Most Manchego is made in may feel a little greasy in the mouth, but as possible. factories, but milking is still largely that just makes it taste better. Each done by hand. It is an awesome sight mouthful is a taste of Spanish culture, to see the shepherds as they work history, and gastronomy. methodically through the herds, often upward of 700 at a time. Each Cheeses that reach a great age have a peppery bite to the finish and, if cut into thin wedges and marinated in the strong aromatic local green olive oil, the flavor is intensified. 162 HOw TO enjOy Like all hard pressing anD aging Once the curd is cheeses, Manchego keeps well and is in the molds, they are placed on a horizontal The vast, dry plains of La Mancha. gorgeous eaten just as it is; however, press to expel excess whey. Artisan cheeses are like any hard cheese, it is extremely then aged in stone barns, sometimes dug into SPAIN Castilla La Mancha versatile and, when cooked, lends a the sides of the limestone hills. Factory cheeses Age 6–18 months nutty, sweetness to the dish. are aged in large, airy barns. Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), drum Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Manchego will absorb tannin, so Milk Ewe enjoy it with a robust or young rough Classification Hard red, crisp white, or perhaps the best Producer Various combination is with sherry, either dry or sweet.

Marking To qualify for the DOC label, the cheese must bear the distinct zigzag markings along the sides and the flor, “flower,” design on the top and bottom. Originally, the zigzag marks were made by encircling the fresh curd with plaited esparto grass and placing it on hand-carved wooden boards to drain. Regrettably, the boards and grass have been replaced with plastic molds, imprinted with the zigzag pattern. The texture of the ivory-colored interior is firm and dry, yet rich and creamy. interior The distinctive yellow to brownish- beige rind gathers a multitude of molds that must be washed and scrubbed and sometimes waxed before being sold. spain 163 Exterior

San Simón da Costa Taramundi Tetilla DO SPaIn anD PorTugal Shaped as a large teardrop or spinning The creation of a splinter cooperative This popular cheese from northwestern top with a small nipple on the top, it is who wanted to respond to the growth Spain is well known beyond its borders thought to have its origins in Celtic in popularity of local cheese and take due to its mellow taste and distinctive culture. Its distinctive smooth copper- advantage of the rich mountain milk, shape—the name Tetilla means “small colored rind is the result of gentle Taramundi is inspired by the sweeter, breast”. original farmhouse production smoking over birch wood. more elastic cheeses of Switzerland. has been almost totally replaced by a TaSTIng noTeS The smoky taste blends TaSTIng noTeS Made plain or with strong dairy industry. elegantly with the buttery aroma and walnuts or hazelnuts, this cheese has TaSTIng noTeS It is ready to eat after taste, while the overall flavour is mild an unusual but pleasant flavor—a mix only seven days, when the deep bright with some salt, a pleasant balance of of toast, butter, and sweetness—and a yellow interior is sweet, clean, buttery, acidity, and sweetness in the aftertaste. springy texture. and unctuous; with maturity, Tetilla How To enjoy a good melting cheese, How To enjoy an excellent hors d’oeuvre becomes firmer and more resilient, this works well in rice, pasta, and alongside crudités, it also has the same with a slight acidity on the finish. vegetable dishes, or added to salads. superb melting qualities as raclette. How To enjoy Delicious when served at Delicious with a glass of a young red Perfect when combined with young, the end of a meal, with either quince Valdeorras wine and some peanuts. fruity white wines or cider. paste or a sharp apple purée. 164 SPAIN Galicia SPAIN Taramundi, Asturias SPAIN Galicia Age 3 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 7 days minimum Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb–3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–3lb 3oz (800g–1.5kg), large cone (500g–1kg), wheel (500g–1.5kg), flattened cone Size D. 5–6in (12–15cm), H. 5–7in Size D. 4–8in (10–20cm), H. 1½–2½in Size D. 31⁄2–6in (9–15cm), H. 31⁄2in–6in (13–18cm) (4–6cm) (9–15cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow and goat Milk Cow Classification Flavor-added Classification Flavor-added Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various

Tortas Extremeñas Tou del Til·lers Tronchón once considered fit only for peasants, This tender soft cheese with its white a delightful volcano-shaped cheese, SPaIn these lush cheeses have recently taken mold rind is a thoroughly modern Tronchón is imprinted with original europe by storm with their near-liquid cheese created at a dairy founded in carved wooden molds made by the interiors. There are three versions, 1995. It is situated in the heart of the shepherds. The tradition of taking including Torta de Barros (pictured), Pyrenees, in Pallars Sobirà, where mixed herds of goat and sheep into the Torta del Casar, and Torta La Serena. varied high pasture enriches the Sierra del Maestrazgo extends its TaSTIng noTeS Thistle rennet gives these quality of the milk. spread throughout the provinces of cheeses a distinctive earthy flavor and TaSTIng noTeS The rind reveals notes of Tarragona, Teruel, and Castellón. a gentle bitterness on the finish; the ammonia and, although there are hints TaSTIng noTeS Mountain pastures endow paste is very soft and rich, with aromas of fresh mushroom and rich cream, the this soft, buttery cheese, available reminiscent of dry hay. pungent, gluey, and assertive flavor of either fresh or cured, with hints of How To enjoy Heat in the oven until this cheese is hard to deny. lavender and oregano. warmed right through, cut a hole in the How To enjoy Full of character, it is best How To enjoy Serve fresh ewe’s milk top of the cheese, and scoop out the soft enjoyed with a dense white country- Tronchón with crusty bread and green interior with a teaspoon or breadsticks. style loaf and a strong red wine such as olives; the cured goat’s milk variety is a Terra alta or Somontano. sharper and pairs well with young reds. SPAIN Extremadura SPAIN Sort, Cataluña SPAIN Aragón and Pais Valenciano 165 Age From 8 weeks Age 6–12 weeks Age From 45 days Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–3lb Weight and Shape14oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–41⁄2lb (500g–1.3kg), round (400–500g) and 21⁄4lb (1kg), round (500g–2kg), round with a crater Size D. 41⁄2–6in (11–16cm), H. 2–21⁄2in Size D. 5in and 81⁄2in (13 and 22cm), Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm), H. 3–4in (5–6cm) H. 1 and 11⁄2in (3 and 4cm) (7–10cm) Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Ewe or goat, or a blend Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Classification Hard Producer Various Producer Tros de Sort Producer Various

Tupí Valdeón DO Zamorano DO sPain anD PoRTugaL This spread, which is a very ancient The innovative alonso brothers, Tomás The dry pastures of northern Castilla shepherd’s recipe that is firmly back on and javier, produce this on the León contribute to Zamorano’s complex the modern-day Catalan cheese menu, side of the Picos de europa, where the character. shepherding and moving is made from the second fermentation climate of Valdéon is less humid than herds between summer and winter of fresh and cured cheeses, blended that of Picón. The resulting less- pasture have a strong heritage here, with olive oil and brandy or liqueur. virulent mold produces a less intense and the dramatic landscape offers a TasTing noTes Matured in small ceramic flavor than similar blues. Valdeón is great variety of vegetation and climate. clay pots, this is a strangely compulsive often marketed as Picos de europa. TasTing noTes The quality and character cheese. it has the texture of porridge, a TasTing noTes The rind is rough, sticky, of the ewe’s milk allow the cheese to be strong piquant flavor, and a slightly speckled with molds, and wrapped in matured for long periods. it develops an fetid aroma, but develops a surprisingly sycamore leaves. Distinctly spicy, but intense, slightly tart, nutty complexity satisfying finish. not strong, and flavored with a touch of with a distinct sheepy aroma. How To enjoy its soft texture makes it salt, it leaves an elegant aftertaste. How To enjoy select a gran Reserva, perfect for canapés on dry bread, but it How To enjoy serve with hazelnuts, aged for 12 months, and serve alone at is not a cheese for the faint-hearted. it walnuts, and prunes, and with port or the end of a meal, or perhaps with pairs well with cold beers and ciders. cider. it also makes an excellent sauce. quince paste, and the local wine Toro. 166 SPAIN Cataluña SPAIN León, Castilla-León SPAIN Castilla-León Age A few weeks Age 2–3 months Age 100 days minimum Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g) and 7oz Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), drum Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb–8lb 13oz (200g), pots Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (2–4kg), drum Size No size Milk Cow, occasionally with goat Size D. 8–91⁄2in (20–24cm), H. 31⁄2–51⁄2in Milk Cow Classification Blue (9–14cm) Classification Fresh Producer Queserías Picos de Europa Milk Ewe Producer Various Classification Hard Producer Various

portugal Azeitão DOP Cabra Transmontano Castelo Branco DOP PoRTugal DOP This rustic-looking cheese wrapped in This DoP, which is also called Beira gauze hails from the lush foothills of This cheese, which comes from the area Baxta, describes three cheeses made the arrabida mountains, where the famous for port is made from the hardy with thistle rennet. Castelo Branco, flora and local soil conditions strongly and resilient Serrana goat. The herds which is a white ewe’s milk cheese, is influence the quality of the milk. are moved from high to low altitudes as the most common, but there is also a TaSTing noTeS The curds are molded in the weather moves into winter, and yellow version blended with goat’s milk cloth, the rind is brine-washed, and the spring time brings the opportunity for and a hotter, more mature recipe. paste is pale yellow. it has a sweet, milking and, of course, cheesemaking. TaSTing noTeS it is tangy with a slightly slightly acidic and very delicate taste, bitter finish, becoming more spicy as it with fatty spice on the finish. TaSTing noTeS Rich in butterfat and is matured for up to 60 days. young How To enjoy Cut open the top, scoop protein, the paste is firm with a slightly cheeses have a soft texture that gets out the runny paste, dollop into mini unctuous texture. The flavor is lemony firmer and chewier with age. cooked pastry shells, and sprinkle with and zesty, with earthy undertones. How To enjoy in all its variations, this oregano to serve with an apéritif, or eat cheese adds interest to a cheeseboard, with nutty bread and wash down with How To enjoy it is excellent for grating alongside dried fruit and nuts. Serve Tempranillo or albarinho wine. or crumbling over a summer salad and with reds such as Pinot noir. can be served as a table cheese, paired with a tawny Port or fruity white wine. PORTUGAL Setúbal PORTUGAL Bragança and Vila Real PORTUGAL Castelo Branco 167 Age 20–30 days Age 60 days Age 45–60 days Weight and Shape 31⁄2–9oz (100–250g), Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz–2lb Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz–21⁄4lb soft round (600–900g), round (750g–1kg), round Size D. 2–41⁄2in (5–11cm), H. 3⁄4–21⁄2in Size D. 5–71⁄2in (12–19cm), H. 1–21⁄2in Size D. 5–6in (12–16cm), H. 21⁄2–3in (2–6cm) (3–6cm) (6–7cm) Milk Ewe Milk Goat Milk Ewe Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various

Évora DOP Ilha Graciosa Nisa DOP sPain and PorTugaL The home of this hand-shaped washed- The cheesemaking technique used to Merina Branca, the local breed of ewes, rind cheese is the famous walled town produce ilha graciosa has been handed produce the rich milk for this of Évora, where it was once traded as down by settlers of the azores’ most traditional cheese, which farmers and currency. Merino ewe’s milk and northern island for many centuries. it locals have enjoyed for years. Local cardoon thistle rennet combine to is similar to são jorge, but is matured thistle rennet coagulates the milk, and create one of the best cheeses of its kind. for a shorter period. the cheese may be preserved in terra-cotta pots of olive oil called TasTing noTes This is a delicious, TasTing noTes The island’s fertile talhas. light-yellow cheese with a crumbly volcanic soil and damp climate provide texture, light acidity, spicy fruity flavor, the lush pastures that characterize this TasTing noTes The texture of this yellow- and salty finish. spring pastures create firm straw-yellow cheese, with its white cheese with a well-formed crust a creamier, fruitier, and stronger strong, clean spicy taste and aroma. is dense, with small eyes in the paste. version. nisa has a slightly sweet taste and is How To enjoy graciosa cheese is well very rich and creamy. How To enjoy it is traditionally thinly suited to eating before or after meals sliced and accompanied by olives, cured with the local minerally white wines or How To enjoy one of Portugal’s most meats, and sourdough bread dowsed in sugarcane rum. Very mature versions popular cheeses, it is perfect on a olive oil, it is also an excellent salad are ideal for grating over gratin dishes. cheeseboard with fruits such as plums cheese. Pair it with sangiovese wines. or apricots, and a crisp white wine. PORTUGAL Ilha Graciosa, Azores 168 PORTUGAL Évora Age 90 days PORTUGAL Portalegre Age 30–90 days Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), cylinder Age 3–4 months Weight and Shape 4–10oz (120–300g), Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 6in (15cm) Weight and Shape 7oz–3lb (200g–1.3kg), cylinder Milk Cow round Size D. 3–4in (7–10cm), H. 11⁄4in (3–3.5cm) Classification Hard Size D. 4–5in (10–13cm), H. 5–6in Milk Ewe Producer Various (12–16cm) Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Producer Various

São Jorge DOP Serpa DOP Serra da Estrela DOP introduced by a group of Flemish Serpa is similar to Serra, but is made Made from milk of the Bordeleira da poRTugaL sailors who made Madeira their home, with the milk of the Laconne ewes, Serra da estrela ewes, Serra has a long it dates back to the 15th century and is rather than the Bordeleira. The hot dry history dating back to the time of the based on a gouda-type recipe. it is so climate and sparse aromatic grazing Romans. The flocks are moved to named because the island was gives the cheese a rich and fruity taste. different pastures within the northern discovered on St. george’s Day. TaSTing noTeS a full, creamy cheese, mountains, and they feed on wild TaSTing noTeS The abundant grass and Serpa is soft, clean, and slightly salty herbs, flowers, and grasses. salty pastures allow the cheese to gain on the palate, with a tangy finish. The TaSTing noTeS The supple and luscious a strong spicy flavor, a clean bouquet, cardoon or thistle rennet used to make yellow paste, coagulated with thistle and a hard but crumbly texture. it is it adds a lightly acidic aftertaste and rennet, possesses a mild acidity with akin to a cross between Cheddar and a slight bitterness. the sweetness of toffee and a hint of gouda, with some small holes. How To enjoy it is perfect paired with strawberries and thyme. How To enjoy ideal for fondues, São red wine as an apéritif. Scoop out the How To enjoy Bring the cheese to room jorge also makes a fine addition to a middle with breadsticks, then fill the temperature, cut off the top like a lid, traditional cheeseboard with fresh fruit shell with mild onions and potatoes, and eat with breadsticks or a spoon such as pears and muscatel grapes. and bake. Complete enjoyment. along with marmalade or quince paste. PORTUGAL São Jorge, Madeira PORTUGAL Beja PORTUGAL Guarda 169 Age 4–6 months Age 30 days Age 45 days Weight and Shape 22lb–241⁄4lb Weight and Shape 7oz–3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb (10–11kg), cylinder (200g–1.5kg), round (500g and 1kg), round Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 5in (12.5cm) Size D. 4–7in (10–18cm), H. 5–8in Size D. 4–7in (10–18cm), H. 5–8in Milk Cow (12–20cm) (12–20cm) Classification Hard Milk Ewe Milk Ewe Producers Various Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producers Various Producer Various

gREAT bRITAIN Orkney 100 miles AND IRELAND 100 km Blue Monday, Clava Brie NORTH sea SCOTLAND Harsh, unpredictable weather, long, Caboc, dark, unforgiving winters, and brief summers meant Crowdie, n that cheeses were originally made mainly by the old Strathdon Blue clan folk and crofters for their own consumption. Cuillin Goats Inspiration for cheeses came from various sources, including the Vikings and the Irish. Today there are around 20 Scottish artisan cheesemakers producing both traditional and unique cheeses from cow’s, goat’s, and ewe’s milk. IRELAND Irish cheesemaking dates back centuries thanks to high rainfall levels, lush pastures, proximity to Europe, and the influence of itinerant monks. In recent decades, the industry has seen a major revival of farmhouse-based productions, beginning in 1976 when Veronica Steele created Milleens, Ireland’s first modern farmhouse cheese. Raw and pasteurized milk from goats, cows, and sheep is now used here for a wide variety of styles and flavors, including superb soft fresh cheeses, blues, hard Cheddar, and Dutch and Swiss styles. The Irish Farmhouse Cheese Association (CAIS) lists more than 40 farmhouse cheesemakers in the country. Key SCoTlAnD ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Iona Cromag Produced only here Produced throughout the region aTLaNTIC OCeaN Lanark Blue Dunlop Bishop Doddington Kennedy gREAT BRITAIn Cairnsmore Kebbuck Northumberland Ewes noRTHERn Allerdale IRElAnD Cotherstone

Wensleydale Swaledale Goat Buffalo Blue Corleggy Ribblesdale Original Goat Bellingham Blue Lancashire Glebe Brethan IRISH Sea Blacksticks Blue IRELAnd REpubLIC Grace Ffteys EngLAnd of IRELAnd Gorau Glas Cheshire White Lincolnshire Poacher Stilton★ Stichelton Whitehaven Shropshire Blue, Mount Callan Mossfield Organic Stilton, Stilton White Stilton★ St Tola Log WALES Innes Button Red Leicester, Cooleeney Knockdrinna Caerphilly Cheshire Shropshire Blue, Gold, Sage Derby Stilton, Beenoskee Cashel Blue, Lavistown Caerphilly Fowlers White Stilton★ Crozier Blue Finn, Forest Blue Berkswell Saval, Suffolk Gold Baylough Cheddar Teifi Farmhouse Hafod Perroche, Snodsbury St Eadburgha, Shipcord Ragstone Goat St Oswald Ardrahan St Gall Cerwyn Perl Las Hereford Hop, Stinking Bishop Daylesford Cheddar, Coolea Dragons Back Penyston Milleens Ardsallagh Pont Gar Pant-Ys-Gawn Windrush Double Gloucester, Desmond, Gubbeen Durrus BBilrudewHoeoadvenCPyerranmeyid Oxford Isis Single Gloucester ★ Barkham Blue Talley Mountain Goat’s Cheese, Waterloo Duddleswell, Talley Mountain Mature Cheese Sussex Slipcote Campscott Tunworth WALES Wales is primarily a pastoral country boasting Cheddar New Forest Blue, beautiful and varied landscapes with high mountain ranges, luscious lowlands, and a mild variable climate. Vulscombe Old Sarum Lord The grasses, wild herbs, and flowers give a unique Curworthy of the character to the milk of the goats, cows, and sheep that Quickes Hard Goat Old Winchester, Fairlight Hundreds graze there. Cornish Blue Norsworthy, Rosary Plain Keltic Gold Posbury Isle of Wight Blue Wealden, Simple cheese has been made in Wales for centuries St Endellion Wealdway and was an essential part of the local economy, but the best known is Caerphilly, initially made on lowland Flower Marie, farms for the mining community. Golden Cross The past 25 years brought an extraordinary revival Yarg Beenleigh Blue Little Ryding of on-farm cheesemaking. Welsh cheese producers now Cornish Sharpham, make a variety of traditional and modern cheeses, from Cheese ★ Sharpham Rustic, mild creamy goat’s to robust blues. Ticklemore Goat ENGLAND A great wedge of the geology and history Farleigh Wallop, Tymsboro Bath Soft of England can be told through its iconic cheeses, such Little Wallop Cheese, as Cheddar, Lancashire, and Red Leicester. However, in Blissful Village Green Wyfe of Bath the last 25 years there has been an upsurge in small, Blue Buffalo English artisan cheeses, not only resulting in an increase Wedmore in complex and flavorful cheeses, but also ensuring a Pendragon future for some of the rare native breeds that give cheese Black-eyed Susan the subtleties, nuances, and quality so essential for these handmade products. Cheese is a reflection of individual Exmoor Blue★ Ogleshield cheesemakers, their craft, and their passion. As a result, Capricorn Goat Dorset Blue the cheeses of England are a reflection of the very Vinney landscape, its people, and the animals that graze it. Woolsery English Goat Caerphilly, Rachel, Cheddar Cheddar White Nancy

england Allerdale Barkham Blue Bath Soft Cheese gReaT BRiTaiN aNd iReLaNd This was Carolyn Fairbairn’s first The buttery consistency of Channel graham Padfield, a third-generation cheese when she began her dairy career island milk, which colors the interior farmer, began making cheese in 1993, in the basement of the family home in deep yellow, characterizes this excellent but the recipe for Bath soft dates back 1979, using milk from her herd of goats. cheese that looks as good as it tastes. to the time of admiral Lord Nelson, Nowadays, she works alongside her ammonite-shaped with an attractive who, in 1801, was sent some by his daughter Leonie, translating the flavors rustic mold-covered rind, it has father as a gift. Today’s organic version of Cumbria’s lush green grazing into blue-green veining from the Penicillium of this cheese is packed in parchment delicious cheese. roqueforti mold. bearing a distinctive red wax seal. TasTiNg NoTes This sweet, moist cheese TasTiNg NoTes Rich and creamy, this TasTiNg NoTes Reminiscent of a mellow has a clean hint of almond and a texture blue melts in the mouth and, while it Brie, this mild cheese begins with a similar to Cheshire (see p176), its admirably avoids harshness, it achieves fresh hint of spring onion and matures maturation in cloth allows different a satisfying and spicy depth. a blue for to a creamier, more mushroomy taste. layers of flavors to permeate. anyone who usually avoids blue. How To eNjoy Remove from the How To eNjoy oven-baked or grilled; How To eNjoy serve on its own, in a refrigerator an hour beforehand, and serve on a bed of baby spinach with a soup, or in a salad with Conference enjoy as part of a cheeseboard with drizzle of oil and a full-bodied white. pears, mixed leaves, and dressing. Bath oliver Biscuits and wheat beer. 172 ENGLAND Thursby, Cumbria ENGLAND Barkham, Berkshire ENGLAND Bath, Somerset Age 3–5 months Age 6–8 weeks Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), truckle Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), ammonite Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), square Size D. 51⁄2in (14cm), H. 51⁄2in (14cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄4in Milk Goat Milk Cow (3cm) Classification Hard Classification Blue Milk Cow Producer Thornby Moor Dairy Producer Two Hoots Cheese Classification Soft white Producer Bath Soft Cheese Company

Beenleigh Blue Berkswell Birdwood Blue Heaven one of a very few British blue cheeses This consistent award winner at the made from ewe’s milk (and available British Cheese Awards was created by The young stock from jonathan and from August to january), this is the Stephen Fletcher and his mother, Melissa Ravenhill’s herd of Shorthorns creation of Robin Congdon, a skilled Sheila, on their 16th-century farm near graze on the unimproved limestone blue-cheese aficionado whose dairy the village of Berkswell. It is now made grassland of Minchinhampton Common. skirts the banks of the river Dart. by their cheesemaker Linda Dutch, with an addition of Penicillium TASTIng noTES Rich, sweet, and slightly who uses milk from their flock of East roqueforti, Melissa creates a semi-soft crumbly, with a blue-green mold Friesland sheep. mold-ripened blue cheese. running through it, this cheese has hints of burnt caramel that show what TASTIng noTES originating from a TASTIng noTES The creamy, soft paste, EngLAnD an excellent ewe’s milk cheese it really traditional recipe, this characterful streaked with patches of blue and is. The rough exterior has a slight cheese provides a satisfying mouthful: encased in a natural molded crust, is stickiness. firm texture, sweet, nutty, caramel pleasantly piquant. How To Enjoy Use in a salad or serve on hints, and a surprisingly tangy finale. How To Enjoy Perfect for canapés or on its own, complemented with a sweet How To Enjoy Its texture makes it ideal a cheeseboard with crusty bread and a Devon cider. for dishes that call for grated cheese; drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Serve when cooked, it forms a delicious crust. with a Cotswold Brewery wheat beer. ENGLAND Sharpham Barton, Devon ENGLAND Berkswell, West Midlands ENGLAND Minchinhampton, Gloucestershire 173 Age 5-plus months Age 4–6 months Age 6–8 weeks Weight and Shape 61⁄2–71⁄2lb (3–3.5kg), Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), flying Weight and Shape 14oz (400g) and drum saucer 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), flat round Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4–5in (10–13cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size D. 2in (5cm) and 8in (20cm), H. 2in Milk Ewe Milk Ewe (5cm) and 6in (15cm) Classification Blue Classification Hard Milk Cow Producer Ticklemore Cheese Producer Ram Hall Dairy Sheep Classification Blue Producer Birdwood Farmhouse Cheesemakers

Black-eyed Susan Blacksticks Blue Blissful Blue Buffalo GReaT BRiTain and iReland Taking its name from the flower of the named after a group of chestnut trees once in the carpet business, daisy family, this is created using the that resemble a collection of black cheesemaker ian arnett is now more dairy’s young Brie-like Goldilocks sticks in winter, the Blacksticks range interested in the tufted Hampshire cheese. Black peppercorns are crushed was originally developed for the sward that the buffalo graze upon to to exactly the right consistency—still restaurant trade. By popular request, it produce his fine blues. not one to retaining a certain bite—and the has made it into stores. Blacksticks compromise, he can make a mighty cheese is then rolled in them, before Blue is a contemporary soft blue-veined strong blue. being allowed to ripen. cheese, milder and creamier than other TasTinG noTes Rich and creamy, this is TasTinG noTes The glory lies in the British blues such as stilton. one of a handful of British buffalo’s contrast between the spicy outside and TasTinG noTes Blacksticks Blue starts by milk blues. The cheese is tangy, moist, the runny “gold” within. Made with milk delighting the nose, then strokes the smooth and light, and you can taste the from Jersey cows, the ripened interior tongue, and finally lingers delightfully sweetness of the milk and the richness is reminiscent of thick Jersey cream. on the palate with a mild spicy tang. of the countryside. How To enJoy serve simply with How To enJoy Pair with hot buttered How To enJoy it is best served on its own crackers, and enjoy with your favorite irish soda bread, or use in a rich blue because it is so unusual, with a good Chardonnay or cider. sauce for grilled steak or pasta. bottle of red to wash it down. 174 ENGLAND North Brewham, Somerset ENGLAND Inglewhite, Lancashire ENGLAND Lydeard St Lawrence, Somerset Age 4 weeks Age 9–12 weeks Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), round Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), drum Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), drum Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 81⁄4in (21cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Buffalo Classification Soft white Classification Blue Classification Blue Producer Daisy and Co. Producer Butlers Farmhouse Cheese Producer Exmoor Blue Cheese Company

Buffalo Blue Campscott Capricorn Goat From the only maker of buffalo blue Middle Campscott Farm in Devon, Lubborn Creamery nestles in a green engLAnD cheese in yorkshire, this is handmade with fields overlooking the Atlantic somerset Valley and specializes in from the milk of local water buffalo. Ocean, specializes in organic sheep’s making continental styles of cheeses. One of judy Bell’s aims in using milk and goat’s cheese. The full-flavored Ripened for seven weeks, this cheese from sheep and buffalo was to help Campscott is matured for at least two develops a thin delicate white mold rind. people with dairy allergies. she created months, when it develops a firm TAsTing nOTes Like the goats themselves, something rather special in the process. texture and thin gray rind. this cheese changes character with age. TAsTing nOTes it looks light—soft and TAsTing nOTes Unpasteurized milk eaten young, it has a slight nutty creamy—and it is light, although there allows the characteristics of the flavor; however, as it ripens, this is, of course, a reminder that it is a seasons to come through: drier with a develops into a salty-sweetness, and “blue” in its nutty, slightly salty taste. nutty taste in summer; creamier and the paste is softer and creamier. HOw TO enjOy stir a healthy portion sweeter in winter. HOw TO enjOy Crumble the young cheese of cheese and a dollop of half and half HOw TO enjOy The younger cheese is into salads, or grill. savor the mature into a potato soup before liquidizing, excellent on its own; the more mature cheese simply as it comes, with a glass to produce a deliciously rich and varieties are delicious grated and grilled, of sauvignon Blanc. creamy broth. or sprinkled over salads or pasta. ENGLAND Newsham, North Yorkshire ENGLAND Lee, Devon ENGLAND Cricket St Thomas, Somerset 175 Age 8–10 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 7 weeks Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg) drum Weight and Shape: 21⁄4lb (1kg) and 41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 41⁄4oz (120g) cylinder Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 8in (20cm) (2kg), cylinder Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Buffalo Size D. 41⁄4in (10.5cm) and 51⁄2in (14cm), Milk Goat Classification Blue H. 4in (10cm) and 6in (15cm) Classification Soft white Producer Shepherds Purse Cheeses Milk Ewe Producer Lubborn Creamery Classification Hard Producer Middle Campscott Farm

Cerney Pyramid Cheshire Cornish Blue greAT BrITAIn AnD IreLAnD Handsome and fresh, this eye-catching A cheese woven into the fabric of In 2001 Philip and Carol stansfield, cheese is made by hand from a recipe english history, Cheshire was looking for a way to diversify their developed by Lady Angus of Cerney: a mentioned in the Domesday Book. dairy farm, spotted the gap in the full-fat Valençay-type cheese from a since the cattle were grazed on salt market for a young blue cheese that unique starter culture. It is coated with marshes, the salt content caused the could compete with imported blue oak ash and a sea salt mix from France, cheese to ripen slowly and gave it a cheese. This mild blue was the result, and shaped into a truncated pyramid. crumbly texture. Available white, most and the stansfields have since won TAsTIng noTes Luxuriously smooth, with are coloured with annatto. many awards. a creamy texture, it exudes a fresh, TAsTIng noTes Dense, slightly dry with a TAsTIng noTes with a creamy texture clean taste with floral notes. It is far very fine crumbly texture and a mild like gorgonzola and thick streaks of milder than expected from a goat’s fresh acidity, Cheshire has a savory, blue, it is surprisingly mild and sweet, cheese, but develops as it matures. salty tang that lingers in the mouth. becoming spicier and tangier as it ages. How To enjoy A striking addition to the How To enjoy grill it (as in traditional How To enjoy Perfect for pepping cheeseboard, this black-and-white welsh rarebit), bake it, crumble it in up—but not overpowering—risotto, truncated pyramid is heavenly with soups and salads, or marry it with a sauces, appetizers, and more; it goes crackers and a dry white wine. glass of real ale. beautifully with fruit and a glass of Champagne. 176 ENGLAND South Cerney, Gloucestershire ENGLAND Today produced in Cheshire, Age 1 month Shropshire, and Wales ENGLAND Liskeard, Cornwall Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), pyramid Age 2–6 months Age 14 weeks Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Weight and Shape 481⁄2lb (22kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 131⁄4lb (6kg), round Milk Goat Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 101⁄2in (26cm) Size D. 11in (28cm), H. 7in (18cm) Classification Fresh Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Cerney Cheese Classification Hard Classification Blue Producer Various Producer Cornish Cheese Company

Cotherstone Curworthy Daylesford Cheddar Cotherstone and similar cheeses were With its own natural rind or, more Created in 2001 by joe Schneider for engLanD once common in the wild and beautiful strikingly, a black wax coating, the Lady Bamford, using organic milk from Pennines, but today—at Quarry Farm traditional Curworthy is based on a the Daylesford estate in the Cotswolds, on the banks of the river Tees— joan 17th-century cheese and uses milk and made in a modern creamery next Cross is the only remaining producer of from the farm’s herd of Friesian cows. to the Daylesford Farmshop. Made like this cheese, thanks to a recipe handed The cheese is one of six varieties traditional Cheddar, this has won down to her by her mother. produced by Rachel Stephens at various awards, including Best english TaSTing noTeS Cotherstone’s interior is Stockbeare Farm in Devon. Cheese in 2002. pale yellow, moist, crumbly, and fatty, TaSTing noTeS The texture is dense and TaSTing noTeS Hard yet chewy, this has and it develops a buttery richness of chewy, with a lovely buttery feel when a rich full-bodied tang that mellows out flavor that is edged with a fruity tang young, and it matures into a more to a savory lingering finish that hints on the finish. tangy, peppery flavor. of green grass and toffee. HoW To enjoy The signature tanginess HoW To enjoy it is ideal on a HoW To enjoy Versatile in cooking, but it goes well with a variety of wines, but in cheeseboard or served with an alsace also stands proud on any cheeseboard the Dales they favor a glass of dark gewürztraminer, which will complement paired with a not-too-tannic red wine, stout as the requisite accompaniment. Curwothy’s young, buttery flavor. such as a Pinot noir or Merlot. ENGLAND Teesdale, County Durham ENGLAND Okehampton, Devon ENGLAND Daylesford, Gloucestershire 177 Age 1–3 months Age 2–6 months Age 9–18 months Weight and Shape 11lb 2oz–61⁄2lb Weight and Shape 1–5lb (450g–2.2kg), Weight and Shape 20lb (9kg), truckle (500g–3kg), millstone drum Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 16in (40cm) Size D. 3–81⁄2in (7.5–22cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 31⁄2–8in (9–20cm), H. 21⁄2–4in Milk Cow Milk Cow (6–10cm) Classification Hard Classification Hard Milk Cow Producer Daylesford Organic Creamery Producer Cotherstone Cheese Classification Hard Producer Curworthy Cheese

Doddington Dorset Blue Vinny Double Gloucester greaT BriTaiN aND ireLaND Made at Doddington Dairy, situated at once upon a time, every self-respecting This iconic cheese can be traced back to the bottom of the Cheviot Hills, this Dorset farmhouse made this cheese— the 15th century, when severn Vale cheese is described by its makers Neill an excellent use for milk left over from farmers made it from famed Cotswold and Jackie Maxwell as lying somewhere the buttermaking. But with changing sheep. gradually, milk from gloucester between a Leicester and Cheddar. They times, the recipe itself nearly died out, cows replaced it. Today, it is made have been making ice cream and until Mike Davies revived it in the throughout england, but not cheeses since 1990 after learning their 1980s. He makes it with a combination necessarily with gloucester milk. craft in the Netherlands and France. of skim and full fat milk, so it is more TasTiNg NoTes with a leathery rind, this TasTiNg NoTes an attractive brick-red moist than the original. hard cheese has a strong, savory, and rind and a hard, compact, slightly dry TasTiNg NoTes as it is unpasteurized and mellow flavor. it is made with full-fat texture, with a rich, sweet caramel the butterfat content of the milk varies milk and colored deep orange with taste and a long-lasting nuttiness. according to the time of year, this cheese annatto seeds. How To eNJoy serve with fruit and nuts, is sometimes crumbly and sometimes How To eNJoy eat plain, cook with it, or wrapped in warm bread, or grated over creamy; nutty but not too strong. watch it being rolled down Coopers Hill salads or pasta, along with a medium- How To eNJoy Try with traditional in gloucester in May, as per tradition. bodied red wine such as a Merlot. Dorset knob biscuits and a sweet cider. 178 ENGLAND Wooler, Northumberland ENGLAND Stock Gaylard, Dorset ENGLAND All over Age 12–14 months Age 12–14 weeks Age Around 4 months Weight and Shape 11lb and 22lb, drum Weight and Shape 13lb (6kg), round Weight and Shape Various, wheel Size D. 9in (23cm) and 121⁄2in (32cm), Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 12in (30cm) Size Various H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Hard Classification Hard Producer Mike Davies, Woodbridge Farm Producer Various Producer Doddington Dairy

Duddleswell Exmoor Blue PGI Fairlight You would expect a delicious cheese ian Arnett makes a range of traditional The free-range, mainly British saanen eNgLAND from a farm set in a region officially handmade hard and soft blue-veined goats on this farm are raised along designated as an Area of Outstanding cheeses with vegetarian rennet, using biodynamic principles, producing a Natural Beauty. The Hardy family local cow, sheep, goat, and buffalo salt-free fresh cheese in a traditional started High Weald Dairy in 1988, in milk. exmoor Blue is the only one way. Made fresh every day, and hung in the beautiful surroundings of Ashdown with Pgi status, which means that muslin, it offers a mild purity that is Forest; Duddleswell has echoes of it is made according to strict guidelines, universally appealing. traditional Dales cheeses, with all the including using local unpasteurized TAsTiNg NOTes Fresh and clean, with a nutritional benefits of ewe’s milk. jersey milk. soft, silky texture, it is also available TAsTiNg NOTes smooth and creamy with TAsTiNg NOTes Balance is the key to this rolled in organic cracked pepper a sweet, nutty release, Duddleswell is semi-soft blue veined cheese, where the (Peasmarsh); in garlic pepper, parsley, a hard-pressed cheese with a thin and zing of the blue still allows other subtle, and salt crumb (icklesham); and leathery natural rind. mildly salty flavors to reach the palate. infused with fresh chives (Winchelsea). HOW TO eNjOY Feature as part of a HOW TO eNjOY Partake with simple HOW TO eNjOY spread on bread or a cheeseboard, or instead of pecorino; appreciation on the cheeseboard and, if cracker, use it in a salad or in cooking, great with pasta or topping a salad. you can find it, somerset cider brandy. or try it in a cheesecake recipe. ENGLAND Horsted Keynes, West Sussex ENGLAND Taunton, Somerset ENGLAND Hastings, East Sussex 179 Age 3–4 months Age 4–5 weeks Age 6 days Weight and Shape 7lb (3.2kg), truckle Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g) and Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), log Size D. 91⁄2in (24cm), H. 23⁄4–31⁄4in (7–8cm) 23⁄4lb (1.25kg), flat round Size L. 3in (7.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Ewe Size D. 43⁄4in (12cm) and 7in (18cm), Milk Goat Classification Hard H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Classification Fresh Producer High Weald Dairy Milk Cow Producer Hollypark Organics Classification Blue Producer Exmoor Blue Cheese Company

Cheddar The story of Cheddar can be traced back to the Romans who introduced hard cheeses to Britain. It was the feudal system, however, that led to the development of the large, buxom traditional British cheeses because it placed the majority of land in the hands of a few great landowners who could afford to make very large cheeses. Yet, it was not until the 16th century TasTinG noTes To taste an that this hard cheese made in the unpasteurized, clothbound cheddar Mendip Hills near the Cheddar Gorge made from the milk of cows whose diet in Somerset became known as is fresh grass, clover, buttercups, and Cheddar. The lush grazing, rolling hills daisies, is to taste a piece of England. and natural caves offered the ideal The bite is firm but yielding like conditions for large herds and meant chocolate, the aroma earthy and the cheesemakers tended to make slightly savory. The flavor differs from huge 60–120lb (27–54kg) cheeses farm to farm, but there is always the requiring 2–3 years to mature. rich sweetness of the milk, a classic acidity, sometimes nutty, often with an GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND explosion of flavor in the mouth and a lingering cheese and onion tang. The rolling hills of England’s West Country. hoW To enjoy For generations, Exterior Cheddar has been an integral part of The fine gray mold that grows over the cloth Since then it has been emulated the English diet, in sandwiches, as reduces the moisture loss so that the cheese quick snacks, in lunches, or displayed can develop its characteristic hard, dense, throughout the world, especially in huge wedges on cheese platters, creamy texture and earthy aroma. embellished with pickled walnuts, and 180 Canada, Australia, and New Zealand crusty bread. It is also superb in a Closer looK where the majority is made in blocks sauces, melted over baked potatoes, or grated over numerous vegetable dishes Cheddar can be sold as young as six rather than elegant clothbound and broiled. Best with a Merlot or months, when it has a softer texture Pinot Noir, but avoid Clarets, as they and mild, almost buttery taste. At cylinders. But only those made from have too much tannin. 12 months, the texture is firmer, almost chewy, and the taste is more cows that graze the green and Farmhouse Cheddar intense. At 18 months, the texture is drier, sometimes with crunchy calcium verdant hills of England truly Although the texture and quality of crystals and the flavor more savory. block cheddar has improved enormously deserve the name Cheddar. in recent years, it can never achieve the Wedge same hardness and depth of flavor as those ENGLAND Dorset, Devon, and Somerset made by hand with the raw milk of a Age 6–24 months single farm. The following produce prime Weight and Shape 56lb (26kg), cylinder examples of excellent farmhouse Cheddar. or block Size D. 121⁄2in (32cm), H. 101⁄2in (26cm) ashley Chase dairy, Dorset Milk Cow Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company, Classification Hard Somerset Producer Various denhay Cheddar, Dorset Green’s of Glastonbury, Somerset Keen’s, Somerset montgomery’s, Somerset Quickes Traditional Cheeses, Devon Westcombe Cheddar, Somerset

CHEDDARing To create the Milling The flattened bricks are unique texture of Cheddar, the mass of then milled or “minced” to finger-sized curds is molded into brick-sized blocks pieces and pitched by hand using and piled two bricks high. This process giant forks to aerate and cool the curd is repeated every 15–20 minutes until before salting. the bricks flatten out, the acidity rises, and more whey is forced out. ENGLAND The interior is a soft 181 sunshine butter-yellow Interior color with an orange tinge as it ages.

Farleigh Wallop Finn Flower Marie gReAT BRiTAin AnD iReLAnD Produced by Peter Humphries at White Charlie Westhead, Haydn Roberts, and Kevin and Alison Blunt produce this Lake Cheeses in Somerset, and created their team produce cheeses in a dairy unique ewe’s milk cheese, with its soft by Alex James (Blur bassist) and Juliet atop Dorstone Hill, with glorious views rind and moist interior that is often Harbutt (chairman British Cheese over the Wye Valley towards the Black compared to the feel of melting ice Awards), this lovely Camembert-style Mountains. As with French double- cream. They have been making cheese cheese is decorated with a sprig of cream cheeses, ten percent additional on the farm since 1989; this one lives thyme, pressed into the velvety crust. cream is added to the milk before up to its name—demure-looking, but TASTing noTeS Uncomplicated yet far the cheesemaking begins, giving it a with a suggestion of naughtiness, from overly simple, this lovely-looking creamy riches. captured in a lemony freshness. cheese liquefies with age, exuding hints TASTing noTeS inside its creamy-white TASTing noTeS: The sweetness of the of mushroom and thyme, with a gentle rind lies a soft but firm cheese with a ewe’s milk lends a caramel subtlety almondy nuttiness on the finish. creamy acidity, a salty-sweet mingling, that is gentle and moist, while the rind HoW To enJoy enjoy it as is—a visual and a hint of mushrooms. has a mushroomy taste and aroma. pleasure, too—or try it in a light-as-air HoW To enJoy Bake with it, or savor the HoW To enJoy Serve it spread on a chunk soufflé or grilled over roasted beetroot extra richness set off to perfection by of fresh, soft crusty bread, accompanied with a dry new Zealand Riesling. the plainest of crackers. by a glass of fine port. 182 ENGLAND Glastonbury, Somerset ENGLAND Dorstone, Herefordshire ENGLAND Whitesmith, East Sussex Age 4–6 weeks Age 3 weeks Age 4–5 weeks Weight and Shape 4oz (125g), round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), square Size D. 31⁄4in (8cm), H. 11⁄4in (3cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classification Soft white Classification Soft white Classification Soft white Producer White Lake Cheeses Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery Producer Golden Cross Cheese Company

Fowlers Forest Blue Golden Cross Hereford Hop Fowlers can lay claim to the title of Kevin and alison Blunt’s herd of 300 The lightly roasted hops give this England oldest cheesemaking family business in goats grazes outside all summer and cheese its instantly recognizable England, the keepers of cheesemaking enjoys a diet of hay all year round, which appearance, but it is the skill of the secrets whispered down through the contributes to continuing success at the almost-legendary Charles Martell that generations. They are also proud of the British Cheese awards. From their milk ensures the quality under the surface. high-calcium water from the 1,000-ft comes a st Maure-style cheese, each log He has also helped to preserve rare (300-m) borehole, which adds to the lightly dusted with charcoal and breed gloucester cattle and to revive cheese’s flavor and texture. matured to a creamy, full flavor. interest in perry, which is like cider, but TasTing noTEs This is a handcrafted TasTing noTEs sweeter in taste than you made with local pears. traditional blue cheese, which matures might expect, it is soft and delicate, and TasTing noTEs Mellow sweetness is in humidity-controlled cellars. soft- redolent of those grassy pastures that thrown into relief by the aroma and rinded, firm, and creamy, it is lightly the goats so enjoy. taste of the cheese’s coat of hops, like a veined, salty, and mildly tangy. How To Enjoy Complemented by celery hint of beer permeating through. How To Enjoy Melt together with on a cheeseboard, it is also an excellent How To Enjoy a delightful addition to warwickshire ale and worcestershire cheese for all sorts of dishes, thanks to the cheeseboard, particularly with a sauce, and spread on toast. its gorgeous texture. dollop of homemade apple chutney. ENGLAND Earlswood, West Midlands ENGLAND Whitesmith, East Sussex ENGLAND Dymock, Gloucestershire 183 Age 3 months Age 3–4 weeks Age 10–12 weeks Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 9oz (225g), log Weight and Shape 5lb (2.2kg), round Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 6in (15cm) Size L. 51⁄2in (14cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 81⁄2in (22cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Soft white Classification Flavor-added Producer Fowlers of Earlswood Producer Golden Cross Cheese Company Producer Charles Martell & Son

Innes Button Isle of Wight Blue Keltic Gold gReAT BRITAIN ANd IReLANd This tiny unpasteurized goat’s cheese, guernsey cows that munch on the Full of pungency and character all at made by Stella Bennett, was the first riches of the Isle of wight’s fertile the same time, this cheese from Sue cheese ever to win Supreme Champion Arreton Valley help give this tangy yet Proudfoot is rind-washed three times a twice at the British Cheese Awards. It mellow cheese its creamy texture. week with local cider until it is ripe. is now a favorite of culinary gurus such Richard Hodgson gave up a career as a The resulting sticky terra-cotta rind as Anton Mosimann and Nigel Slater, film editor to make cheese, while his should not be ignored, but instead form and top London cheese shops. mother, julie, joined him after selling part of the pleasure of the eating. TASTINg NoTeS Perfection itself—soft, the family’s small hotel. TASTINg NoTeS Prepare to be deluged by almost mousse-like, it melts in the TASTINg NoTeS A thick gray molded rind layers of delicious notes, varying from mouth, releasing its lemony freshness hides a mellow, nutty paste, which is bacon to yeast, with distinct nuttiness with hints of walnuts and white wine smooth in texture with a slight spicy in between and farmyardy finish. on the finish. Available with ash, pink bite from the blue. How To eNjoy Make a vegetarian version peppercorns, or chopped nuts. How To eNjoy Simply enjoy it as it comes of a Cornish pasty with apple, onion, How To eNjoy Savor on its own, spread or as part of a cheeseboard, or layer it and sage wrapped around Keltic gold, on soft, warm bread, or grill and serve with slices of fresh pear for rather or melt it with a little freshly grated with a Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier. special party canapés. nutmeg for an alpine-style fondue. 184 ENGLAND Tamworth, Staffordshire ENGLAND Sandown, Isle of Wight ENGLAND Bude, Cornwall Age 3–7 days Age 3–5 weeks Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 13⁄4oz (50g), button Weight and Shape 8oz (230g), drum Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), drum Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Fresh Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft Producer Innes Cheese Producer Isle of Wight Cheese Company Producer Whalesborough Farm Foods

Lancashire Lincolnshire Poacher Little Ryding One of the great “territorial” cheeses of Once a traditional folk song, it is now Previously made by Mary Holbrook of EngLand England, Lancashire comes in three also a cheese invented by simon jones Timsbury, it is now made by the main styles: creamy, tasty, and crumbly, and made with his brother Tim. It was Bartlett brothers, to whom she sold her the latter being a fast-ripening and originally a brilliant solution to the recipe after deciding to concentrate on high-acid recent creation. Its history abundant supplies of spring milk from goat’s cheese. In 2004, using milk from goes back as far as the 13th century, their herd of Holsteins, and has become their own flock, james and david’s first when every farmer’s wife made use of a much-loved modern British cheese. It cheese went on sale, to great applause. surplus milk. was supreme Champion at the British TasTIng nOTEs Handmade with a TasTIng nOTEs Made by combining the Cheese awards in 1996. Camembert-like rind and creamy curd from three consecutive days, it has TasTIng nOTEs This is similar to an middle, this is like traditional British a mottled appearance, soft, vaguely excellent mature Cheddar-style cheese. sunday lunch on a plate, with flavors of lumpy feel in the mouth, and buttery Hard and chewy, lively and complex, it burnt onions and roast lamb, and yet a richness balanced by an oniony tang. offers a full taste experience. caramel sweetness, too. HOw TO EnjOy Its meltingly smooth, even HOw TO EnjOy Eat it plain, grate it, melt HOw TO EnjOy: serve simply with thin consistency makes it ideal for anything it, or bake it with onions, bacon, and crackers and a side order of homemade from cheese on toast to tasty pies. potatoes for a fine gratin. caramelized onion chutney. ENGLAND Around the Forest of Bowland, ENGLAND Alford, Lincolnshire ENGLAND North Wootton, Somerset 185 Lancashire Age 12–24 months Age 3–8 weeks Age 4–12 weeks for “creamy”; 12-plus Weight and Shape 44lb (20kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), round weeks for “tasty” Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 9in (23cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄4in (3cm) Weight and Shape 411⁄2lb (19kg), cylinder Milk Cow Milk Ewe Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 10in (25cm) Classification Hard Classification Soft white Milk Cow Producer FW Read & Sons Ltd Producer Wootton Organic Dairy Classification Hard Producer Various

Little Wallop Lord of the Hundreds New Forest Blue gReAT BRITAIn AnD IReLAnD It was a big move for Juliet Harbutt, Radiating out from the hamlet of gwyn and ness Williams use pure founder of the British Cheese Awards, stonegate are the slopes of the Rother Ayrshire milk from a herd grazed on to establish her own cheese label; being Valley, a landscape that leaves clues of the Hampshire Downs; it is, they say, who she is, she had to get it right. In its many qualities within the subtleties “the best milk we have ever tasted, and partnership with columnist and of this cheese. Cheesemaker Cliff fantastic for cheesemaking”. The musician Alex James, that’s exactly Dyball gave up a career in London as recipes for their cheeses—including what she has done. an insurance broker for rewards of a this excellent example—are designed to TAsTIng noTes Produced exclusively for different kind. bring out the milk’s charmingly them by White Lake Cheese, Little TAsTIng noTes It has a rustic reddish idiosyncratic characteristics. Wallop is washed in local cider brandy brown rind, dusted with gray, and a TAsTIng noTes It has a light blue touch, and wrapped in vine leaves. When compactly satisfying density within. with an attractive sharpness from that young, it exudes a mild, creamy Think pecorino; expect a dry, grainy extra blue tang. freshness, which later matures into a texture, with mild nuttiness alongside HoW To enJoy Pep up risotto, crumble nutty, distinctly goaty complexity. a deep burnt caramel sweetness. over salads, or savor the full taste of HoW To enJoy A beautiful-looking cheese HoW To enJoy The maker recommends “Ayrshire” by serving this cheese as to grace any cheeseboard. quince jelly as the perfect complement. simply as possible. 186 ENGLAND Glastonbury, Somerset ENGLAND Stonegate, East Sussex ENGLAND Redlynch, Wiltshire Age 3–6 weeks Age 6–8 months Age 6–8 weeks Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), round Weight and Shape 51⁄2–101⁄2lb Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), Size D. 31⁄4in (8cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) (2.5–4.8kg), round cylinder Milk Goat Size D. 7–91⁄2in (18–24cm), H. 3–41⁄2in Size D. 63⁄4in (17cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Classification Natural rind (7.5–11cm) Milk Cow Producer White Lake Cheese Milk Ewe Classification Blue Classification Hard Producer Loosehanger Cheeses Producer The Traditional Cheese Dairy

Norsworthy Northumberland Ogleshield Originally a naval engineer from it was a book about sheep and their when Cheddar cheesemaker Jamie eNgLaND Durham, Dave Johnson now has his cheeses that first set Mark Robertson Montgomery had two americans to own herd of 180 goats in Devon and along the artisan cheese road in 1984, stay, they all spent some enjoyable makes a series of hard and soft cheeses. and he received so much support and hours using his Jersey milk in various Based on a Dutch recipe, Norsworthy is encouragement that he ended up “experiments”. Thus Jersey shield was made from unpasteurized milk using diversifying into goats and cows. Over born. Bill Oglethorpe at Neal’s yard the Dutch washed-curd method. the years, he has taken inspiration Dairy then began another round of TasTiNg NOTes its pleasant and mild from various sources. experiments, using the washed-rind taste deepens and lingers. Matured for TasTiNg NOTes a gouda-style cheese, it is technique to arrive at this cheese. a month, it develops a fine crusty brown smooth, moist, mild, and creamy, with TasTiNg NOTes Beneath the orange rind rind and a white paste within that hints of green grass and red onions. is a yellow heart with an aroma as becomes more crumbly as it ripens. also available in flavored versions. robust as its flavor—onion soup and HOw TO eNJOy Delicious served with a HOw TO eNJOy The perfect choice for yeasty bread. a cheese to get to know. chunk of fresh crusty country-style making traditional Northumberland HOw TO eNJOy Think of raclette; this is an bread, accompanied by an english pale pan haggerty, with its layers of potato, excellent west Country alternative that ale or a Merlot. onion, and grated cheese. melts like a dream. ENGLAND Norsworthy, Devon ENGLAND Blagdon, Northumberland ENGLAND North Cadbury, Somerset 187 Age 1 month Age 12 weeks Age 4–5 months Weight and Shape 41⁄2–51⁄2lb (2.5kg), Weight and Shape 5lb (2.3kg), round Weight and Shape 121⁄4lb (5kg) wheel round Size D. 9in (20cm), H. 71⁄2in (3cm) Size D. 121⁄2in (32cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer Northumberland Cheese Producer JA & E Montgomery Producer Norsworthy Dairy Goats Company

Old Sarum Old Winchester Oxford Isis greAT BriTAin AnD irelAnD With this dairy’s cheeses, you know Mike and judy Smales, who have been Created by Harley Pouget and his that the Ayrshire cow’s milk will making their cheeses for eight years, father, who is best known for his produce that characteristic smooth-as- came up with Old Winchester—still Oxford Blue, this cheese is lightly velvet texture. Old Sarum comes in the creamy, but with “subtle nuttiness”—to washed with five-year-old full-flavored form of a tall, elegant cylinder with a satisfy customers who were looking for locally produced mead (made from natural gray-brown rind, a moist a fuller flavored cheese. it is also fermented honey) that continues to interior, and blue-gray veins amid a known as Old Smales. mature in the bottle. yellow paste. TASTing nOTeS Old Winchester’s hard, TASTing nOTeS The sticky orange rind TASTing nOTeS in the tradition of the smooth crust protects the hard, almost has a pervasive aroma that is both italian soft blue cheese Dolcelatte, this brittle warm yellow interior, with its spicy and pungent, while the interior is is a sweet-tasting blue that melts in distinctive nuttiness and lasting velvety, almost runny, with a sweet the mouth like rich, spicy butter. salty-sweet finale. yeasty taste from the mead. HOW TO enjOy As an indulgent lunchtime HOW TO enjOy Use as either a table HOW TO enjOy Serve on a cheeseboard treat, serve in a crusty baguette with cheese or a vegetarian alternative to with crusty bread and, if you can find crispy, preferably rare-breed bacon. hard italian cheeses. it, a glass of mead. 188 ENGLAND Redlynch, Wiltshire ENGLAND Landford, Wiltshire ENGLAND Oxford, Oxfordshire Age 6–8 weeks Age 16 months Age 6–8 weeks Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), tall Weight and Shape 9lb (4kg), boulder Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round cylinder Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 63⁄4in (17cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue Producer Lyburn Farmhouse Cheesemakers Producer Oxford Cheese Company Producer Loosehanger Cheeses

Pendragon Penyston Perroche Philip Rainbow, one of a handful of The Friesians of Daylesford organic These elegant individual cylinders, englAnD producers in Britain to use buffalo’s enjoy the clean, unspoiled pastures of available plain or rolled in fresh herbs, milk, makes this firm Cheddar-style this timeless part of england; you can use milk from a farm near Ashleworth cheese. Pendragon takes its name from even taste the seasons in the cheese. in gloucestershire. Although now strong historical connections Somerset Penyston might call to mind the produced by Charlie westhead, Haydn has with the Arthurian myths. It is also popular norman cheese Pont l’evêque, Roberts, and the team, the cheese’s available lightly smoked. but it has its own distinguishing name derives from the creamery’s TASTIng noTeS The hard, waxy yellow features and is mild for a washed rind. previous managers, Perry james and paste has a mild sweetness and its TASTIng noTeS Described as delivering Beatrice garroche. understated character appeals to those “waves of flavor”, the cheese leads from TASTIng noTeS gently does it with this who like a clean flavor. Being made a meaty aroma to a full-bodied orange process, resulting in a light, mousse- with buffalo milk means that the stickiness as it ages. like texture with a subtle goaty taste cheese is admirably low in cholesterol. How To enjoy Use in an upmarket and clean, almondy finish. How To enjoy Assemble a sophisticated cheese and tomato sandwich, How To enjoy Delia Smith herself makes cheeseboard, using Pendragon to give preferably made with a loaf of organic a point of recommending Perroche as a variety among cow’s and goat’s cheeses. country-style bread. beautifully mild cheese that grills well. ENGLAND Ditcheat, Somerset ENGLAND Daylesford, Gloucestershire ENGLAND Dorstone, Herefordshire 189 Age 4–12 months Age 8 weeks Age 1 week Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg) and 71⁄2lb Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), square Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), cylinder (3.5kg), round Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm) base, 2in (5cm) top, Size D. 7in (18cm) and 10in (25cm), H. 11⁄4in (3cm) H. 23⁄4in (7cm) H. 23⁄4in (7cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat’s milk Milk Buffalo Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Classification Hard Producer Daylesford Creamery Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery Producer Somerset Cheese Company

Posbury Quickes Hard Goat Rachel gReat bRitaiN aND iRelaND Posbury is a Dutch-style cheese based the Quicke family has farmed the Peter Humphries makes two washed- on Dave Johnson’s Norsworthy (see same land for more than 450 years. rind cheeses: Morn Dew, with cow’s p189). Flavored with garlic, onion, aound 40 years ago, sir John and his milk, and this one, made with goat’s horseradish, and paprika, this flavor- wife, Prue, built the dairy where their milk. it looks distinguished, with its added cheese shows an excellent daughter Mary continues to produce fine orange leathery rind, dusted with balance of tastes. cheese, including this recently created white, gray, and even yellow with tastiNg Notes the orange rind conceals Cheddar-style goat cheese. molds—it is the most popular cheese he a white paste dotted with holes and tastiNg Notes Firm, almost chewy, it has produces. orangey flecks. Posbury’s flavor is a subtle goaty taste and an aromatic, tastiNg Notes Rachel is sweet, curvy, mild and creamy, but the horseraddish almondy tang with a fresh acidity. this and slightly nutty, with a whole raft of gives it a warm kick on the palate. is an excellent alternative for people taste experiences: rich and tangy, How to eNJoy this is excellent sandwich with an allergy to cow’s milk. meaty and savory, but with a citric material, particularly nestled between How to eNJoy this cooks superbly. try sharpness and a sweet nutty finish. slices of wholemeal bread. wilting spinach or similar greens in a How to eNJoy savor on its own or in a little water, add with the cheese to a salad, paired with a glass of sancerre roux of rice flour and milk, then purée. or a single-varietal cider. 190 ENGLAND Norsworthy, Devon ENGLAND Newton St Cyres, Devon ENGLAND Pylle, Somerset Age 4-plus weeks Age 6–10 months Age 3 months Weight and Shape 41⁄2–51⁄2lb (2–2.5kg), Weight and Shape 53lb (24kg), truckle Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), round round Size D. 14in (35.5cm), H. 12in (30cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Flavor-added Producer Quickes Traditional Producer White Lake Cheeses Producer Norsworthy Dairy Goats

Ragstone Red Leicester Ribblesdale engLAnD Original Goat Another great cheese from Charlie named after the city of Leicester, this Westhead, Ragstone was originally traditional english cheese is made in a The late iain Hill and his wife made in his first creamery based near similar way to Cheddar, but colored Christine created this fresh, delicate Sevenoaks in Kent, and it was the with annatto. Prolific by the late cheese, and niece iona now carries on nearby Ragstone Ridge that lent its eighteenth century, its quality was their work. it is made in the yorkshire name to this cheese. partly ascribed to the county’s excellent Dales’ Ribble Valley, where the natural TASTing noTeS The wrinkly rind will call grazing. Farmhouse production in the pastures and high rainfall provide to mind a Brie, and it is certainly a county had died out by the mid 1900s, excellent grazing for the goats. lovely-looking product. Creamy yet until 2005 when the Leicestershire light on the tongue, it has a hint of Handmade Cheese Company revived it. TASTing noTeS With a firm yet supple mushroomy notes and a lemony tang. TASTing noTeS The distinctive tangerine texture like young gouda, it is HoW To enjoy This cheese melts coloured interior is dense, waxy, and delicately goaty and has chicory and superbly. Alternatively, bake in the smooth, with a sweet, mellow nuttiness almond flavors. oven, drizzled with a little olive oil, that strengthens as it matures. until it is at melting point. Serve warm HoW To enjoy Serve on toast, in tarts, or HoW To enjoy Serve on its own, grate and oozy, on a bed of mixed leaves. use it to add color to a cheeseboard. it, melt it, or, above all, bake it with figs. Works well with an oaky Chardonnay or Merlot. ENGLAND Dorstone, Herefordshire ENGLAND Leicestershire ENGLAND Horton-in-Ribblesdale, North 191 Age 3 weeks Age 4–5 months Yorkshire Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), log Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg) and 44lb Age 8–12 weeks Size L. 6in (15cm), H. 2in (5cm) (20kg), wheel Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), boulder Milk Goat Size D. 14in (35.5cm) and 18in (46cm), Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Classification Soft white H. 5in (13cm) and 7in (18cm) Milk Goat Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Hard Producer Ribblesdale Cheese Company Producer Various

Stilton PDO a clOSer lOOk In the early 18th Century, the town of Stilton was a major staging To create the smooth buttery texture post on the London to York road, and the landlord of the Bell Inn characteristic of Stilton, the freshly in Stilton started serving a soft, blue-veined cheese made in the drained curds are left to ripen nearby Leicestershire town of Melton Mowbray. overnight, significantly longer than most other cheeses. Such was the popularity of the Today, Stilton is one of a handful Jagged blue lines radiate cheese that Cooper Thornhill, the of British cheeses granted Protected erratically from the enterprising landlord, was soon Designation Origin (PDO) status by sending Stilton to London, upward the European Commission. There center to the outside like of a thousand a week by the mid- are just seven dairies licensed to shattered porcelain. 1700s. The cheese was therefore make Stilton. gREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND named after the place from which it was made famous, rather than where TaSTIng nOTeS Each maker’s it was made. cheese is slightly different, but all are sharp and aggressive when eaten too Initially made on small farms, the young and mellow out to a rich, spicy intricate and time-consuming nature butter taste with hints of cocoa on the of its production soon influenced finish and sometimes a touch of Stilton-makers to join forces, and in walnuts or a slight sharp acidity. 1875 the first Stilton was produced by hand in a small factory. In 1910, HOw TO enjOy Ideal for sauces, the Stilton Makers Association was dressings, and soups, especially broccoli registered as a trademark, ensuring or celery soup, baked in a quiche or the cheese could only be made in the tart, paired with spinach or crumbled counties of Nottinghamshire, over a grilled steak, or into a salad Derbyshire, and Leicestershire, and with a sweet balsamic dressing. This decision ultimately saved the cheese from mediocrity or even The sweet richness of vintage Port extinction—the fate of other fine can overpower Stilton. Instead, try a British fine territorial cheeses. tawny Port or a crisp yet sweet wine like Montbazillac, but not Sauterne, 192 which is too sweet. Alternatively, try an aromatic dry Riesling or light beer. The tradition of pouring Port into Stilton came about to kill the creatures that gathered at the bottom of Stilton bells. Nowadays, with modern refrigeration, there is no need to spoil the Stilton or waste good Port. The Bell Inn, which is in the town of Stilton, Peterborough, England. BRITAIN Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire, and Leicestershire Age 9–14 weeks Weight and Shape 17lb (7.5 kg), tall cylinder Size D. 8in (20cm), H.12in (30cm) Milk Cow Classification Blue Producer Various

salting The curd is milled before being the Molds The curds are placed measured into special pans so the salt can be in tall, open-ended, stainless steel, cylindrical molds and placed on wooden mixed through by hand. slates where gravity and the weight of the curd gradually forces out whey through the holes in the sides of the hoops and through the bottom. Some 17 gallons (77 liters) of milk are required to make one 15lb (7.5kg) Stilton. Once the cheese can stand on its own, it is removed and the curds allowed to drain overnight. Piercing At about 6 weeks, each cheese is placed on a special stand and pierced with 18–20 long, narrow stainless steel needles to allow air to enter the body of the cheese. ENGLAND grading Before being released to 193 the retailers, each batch is graded. An “iron” is used to bore into the cheese and extract a plug. By visual inspection and by smell, the grader can determine whether the cheese is up to the mark. Quarter cylinder The rind is dry, rough, and crusty, with the pierced holes quite visible. The interior should be straw yellow, not brown or dull.

gReAT BRiTAin AnD iRelAnD Rosary Plain Sage Derby St. Eadburgha Chris and Claire Moody began making Derby is one of england’s oldest and The Staceys have farmed at the foot of cheese in 1986, originally using milk most famous cheeses. The custom of the Cotswolds for more than 35 years, from their own small herd of goats. As adding finely chopped sage, thought to and named this Camembert-style they became more successful, however, have health-giving properties, to the cheese after the great-granddaughter the pair made the pragmatic decision fresh curd began in the 17th century. of Alfred the great, to whom a local to buy in milk from a herd of pedigree Today, most are factory-made, but the church is dedicated. it is made from the Saanen goats. Their fresh cheese west Midlands family producer, milk of Montbeliarde and Friesian cows Rosary Plain is a consistent award- Fowlers of earlswood, still makes Sage that graze in pear orchards and on winner at the British Cheese Awards. Derby traditionally. lush, grassy pastures. TASTing noTeS Moist, fresh, meltingly TASTing noTeS Softer than Cheddar, this TASTing noTeS This is at its best when it soft, and delightfully aromatic, it also pale yellow cheese has a melted butter is soft in the middle, when the flavor comes in flavored garlic and herb, taste and a delightful, but subtle, becomes more pungent and meaty. pepper-coated, and ash-coated versions. herbal flavor from the sage. How To enjoy Delicious warmed until How To enjoy Use as a table cheese, for How To enjoy with its ribbon of herbs, the inside starts to run, or on the melting or spreading, or add it at the this makes a colorful and distinctive cheeseboard with cider, a light ale, or last moment to a fluffy omelette. addition to the cheeseboard. a full-bodied red wine. 194 ENGLAND Landford, Wiltshire ENGLAND West Midlands ENGLAND Broadway, Worcestershire Age 3 days Age 10–20 weeks Age 4–12 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), round Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), round Weight and Shape 6oz–61⁄2lb (175g–3kg), Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) round Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. 31⁄2–133⁄4in (9–35cm), H. 11⁄2in Classification Fresh Classification Flavor-added (4cm) Producer Rosary Goats Cheese Producer Various Milk Cow Classification Soft white Producer Gorsehill Abbey Farm

St. Endellion St. Oswald Sharpham Started by two farming families in This cheese, another from Mike Stacey, Reminiscent of a small Brie, Sharpham engLanD 1996, the creamery—which overlooks is named after a former Bishop of is produced by one of the first British the rugged atlantic coast—has made a Worcester. It is washed in brine and creameries to make this style of cheese. name for itself with its innovative matured for at least one month, and The estate began making it by hand, to approach to cheesemaking. This is a the rind changes from yellow to a its own recipe, in 1980, using milk from Brie-style cheese made with Cornish sticky orange-brown as it matures. the estate’s herd of jersey cows, which double cream. St. Oswald is the latest addition to this graze beside the river Dart near Totnes. TaSTIng nOTeS Luxury is the keynote dairy’s repertoire. TaSTIng nOTeS It has a wonderfully here. as the cheese ripens, the paste TaSTIng nOTeS The smooth, supple paste creamy texture (firm to begin with, but softens to a wonderful creamy becomes almost runny and has a full, softens with ripening) and a unique consistency with a full-bodied flavor, rich meaty flavor, with onion notes that depth of intense flavor, with some fresh tanginess, and hint of mushroom. become stronger as it ages. mushroom character. HOW TO enjOy Leave loosely wrapped for HOW TO enjOy Serve as it comes with a HOW TO enjOy good on its own, but also a couple of hours, before serving as part good full-bodied red wine and dried a handsome-looking choice for gracing of a cheeseboard. It is especially good fruit. Or put a few dollops in among the cheeseboard. Matches well with a with a spicy white wine. finely sliced potatoes, and bake. red wine from the Sharpham estate. ENGLAND Trevarrian, Cornwall ENGLAND Broadway, Worcestershire ENGLAND Totnes, Devon 195 Age 6 weeks Age 1–3 months Age 4–8 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g) and 2lb Weight and Shape 12oz (350g) and 51⁄2lb Weight and Shape 9oz–21⁄4lb (250g–1kg), 3oz (1kg), round (2.5kg), round square and round Size D. 8in (20cm) and 351⁄2in (90cm), Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 133⁄4in (35cm), Size D. 33⁄4in (9.5cm) and 71⁄4in (19cm), H. 1in (3cm) and 11⁄2in (3.5cm) H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) H. 11⁄2in (4cm) and 13⁄4in (4.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Producer Cornish Country Larder Producer Gorsehill Abbey Farm Producer Sharpham Partnership

Sharpham Rustic Shipcord Shropshire Blue gReAT bRiTAin AnD iRelAnD One of several cheeses produced on this suffolk is not traditionally known as a Rather oddly named, as it was actually estate, also famous for its outstanding cheesemaking region, so when the first created in inverness, scotland, in wines, Rustic is made using sweet, rich Richards family, long-standing dairy 1970, this cheese is based on the recipe milk from the Jersey herd. The curd is farmers, decided to start cheesemaking for stilton with the addition of annatto placed, unpressed, in a colander to give in 2006, local cheese lovers greeted them giving it its attractive mandarin orange it its unusual shape and knobbly rind. enthusiastically. each cheese is named color. it was eventually adopted by the Also available with chives and garlic. after a river meadow on the farm. stilton makers who now make it. TAsTing nOTes Deep yellow with a TAsTing nOTes The curds and whey are TAsTing nOTes Milder than stilton, but natural mold-coated rind, this moist scalded, reminiscent of French tommes, equally creamy in texture, its streaks cheese has a wonderful creamy texture giving the cheese a close texture and a of blue stand out against the orange and a buttery sweet flavor balanced by “long” creamy amd nutty flavor that interior. There is a hint of caramel a fresh, gentle acidity. develops a tangy acidity as it matures. sweetness behind its spicy, blue tang. HOw TO enJOy serve on its own or HOw TO enJOy its creamy texture makes HOw TO enJOy spectacular crumbled into crumbled over warm asparagus or into it a perfect snacking cheese, along with salads or melted in soups, this cheese is a roast beetroot and pea shoot salad, crackers, celery, apple, or grapes, but equally at home on a cheeseboard, with with a glass of cider or fruity red wine. shipcord also melts and grills well. an accompanying port or brown ale. 196 ENGLAND Totnes, Devon ENGLAND Baylham, Suffolk ENGLAND Leicestershire and Age 6–8 weeks Age 6–12 months Nottinghamshire Weight and Shape 33⁄4lb (1.7kg), elliptical Weight and Shape 91⁄2–101⁄2lb Age 10–13 weeks Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (4.3–4.8kg), wheel Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg), cylinder Milk Cow Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 10in (25cm) Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Milk Cow Producer Sharpham Partnership Classification Hard Classification Blue Producer Rodwell Farm Dairy Producer Various

Single Gloucester Snodsbury Goat Stichelton enGLAnD PDO On their farm in Worcester, Colin and stichelton, the original name for the One of the few english cheeses with Alyson Anstey produce a range of hard village of stilton, provided leading Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), cow’s milk cheeses based on traditional cheesemaker joe schneider with his it was rescued from extinction by cheeses that were once made in the inspiration for this cheese. After his Charles Martell of stinking Bishop county. In 2005, they decided to branch success with Daylesford Cheddar, he fame. Traditionally, evening milk was out, and created this clothbound goat’s decided to set up his own dairy in 2006 skimmed to make butter, then mixed cheese based on Double Gloucester. and make a blue. Based on the stilton with full milk the next morning to make TAsTInG nOTes Dense with a smooth recipe, it cannot be called stilton the cheese. Producers must have at creaminess, it has a distinct almondy because it is made with raw milk. least one Gloucester cow. nuttiness rather than the more distinct TAsTInG nOTes Creamy white with bold goaty taste you find in softer goat’s blue streaks, stichelton is complex and TAsTInG nOTes Firm but yielding, it has a cheeses, with hints of chicory and wild delicious, and moves from a fruitiness mild, buttery flavor, with subtle hints herbs on the finish. to a spicy sweetness, all carried within of vanilla and nuts, and a gentle acidity. HOW TO enjOy serve on crackers with a creamy texture. some home-made pickle, or grate over HOW TO enjOy serve on the cheeseboard, HOW TO enjOy Best enjoyed with apples salads and soups. with crackers and a glass of port. or pears and pickled walnuts, served with perry, a traditional pear cider. ENGLAND Gloucestershire ENGLAND Worcester, Worcestershire ENGLAND Cuckney, Nottinghamshire 197 Age 2–3 months Age 4–6 months Age 12–14 weeks Weight and Shape 5lb (2.25kg), wheel Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), drum Weight and Shape 151⁄2lb (7kg), cylinder Size D. 81⁄2in (22cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 81⁄2in (22cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Hard Classification Blue Producer Various Producer Anstey’s of Worcester Producer Stichelton Dairy

Stinking Bishop Suffolk Gold Sussex Slipcote GREaT BRITaIN aNd IRElaNd Named after an old variety of pear Creamy milk from this family-run The name derives from an old English used to make the perry (fermented dairy’s small herd of pedigree Guernsey word meaning a “little” (slip) piece of pear juice) in which the cheese is cows (graced with names such as “cottage” (cote) cheese, and the organic washed, Stinking Bishop was created Madge and armilla) is used to make milk used to make it comes from farms by Charles Martell in 1972. It has this cheese, which is lightly pressed especially selected by this dairy on the become one of the best-known and and aged to develop a golden rind. edge of ashdown Forest. Traditionally loved of English washed-rind cheeses, Established in 2004, the dairy also made with cow’s milk, it is given a and even featured in one of Nick Park’s produces a soft white, blue, and sweeter taste here with ewe’s milk. Wallace and Gromit films. fresh cheeses. It comes in different flavors, including TaSTING NoTES Rich and meaty, with a TaSTING NoTES The high butterfat garlic and herb, and peppercorn. hint of sweetness, it is milder than the content in the Guernsey milk comes TaSTING NoTES Very moist, almost smell suggests. The supple paste and through in the mild sweetness and mousse-like, it has a lemony fresh tang sticky golden rind are encapsulated in deep yellow color, while the texture that finishes with sweet notes. a thin band of wood. is firm with a few small holes. HoW To ENjoy Best spread on bread or HoW To ENjoy Ideal on the cheeseboard HoW To ENjoy Perfect with oatcakes and biscuits, but also a good addition to a with pears and a robust red wine. an apple, or melted under the broiler. baked potato or pasta. 198 ENGLAND Dymock, Gloucestershire ENGLAND Coddenham, Suffolk ENGLAND Horsted Keynes, West Sussex Age 5–8 weeks Age 10–12 weeks Age 10 days Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g) and 3lb Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), wheel Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), button 3oz (1.5kg), round Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 21⁄4in (5.5cm), H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) Size D. 5in (13cm) and 81⁄4in (21cm), Milk Cow Milk Ewe H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) and 2in (5cm) Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Milk Cow Producer Suffolk Farmhouse Cheeses Producer High Weald Dairy Classification Semi-soft Producer Charles Martell & Son