The World Cheese Book

Sierra Nevada Smokey Blue Cheese Soft Wheel Named after the sierra Nevada Rogue Creamery age their cheeses in Michael Lee started out as a cheese usa Mountains, California, the Roquefort-style caves, and after their retailer, but since 2005 he has been cheesemakers of the same name also success with oregon Blue, the first blue producing his own cheese from a small produce a range of natural and organic made on the west Coast, its producers herd of 25 goats. Respectful of cheeses, including a Cheddar and decided to be the first to smoke a blue. seasonality, as and when needed, this various flavored Jack cheeses. However, Hence smokey Blue was born. cheesemaker often supplements his their best cheeses are these authentic, TasTiNg NoTes This cheese is smoked supply of milk with cow’s milk from old-style cream ones. over a bed of local hazelnut shells, neighboring farms. TasTiNg NoTes sierra Nevada has giving the robust, spicy blue a hint of TasTiNg NoTes soft wheel is a pungent, a full-cream flavor and texture with hazelnuts with a touch of creamy washed-rind cheese. The rind is thick hints of sweet grass, warm butter, and caramel and smoke on the finish. but soft and sticky, while the inside is a sea-salty tang on the finish. How To eNJoy The marriage of this rich and goaty with hints of chestnuts. How To eNJoy spread on a bagel or fold smoked blue with a bottle of Chocolate How To eNJoy spread on warm crusty into an omelet with smoked salmon stout and slices of stoneground-wheat bread and serve with dried fruit and and chives, alongside a glass of baguette is a great way to enjoy nuts alongside an alsace-style aromatic California sauvignon Blanc. a sunny afternoon. white wine or wheat beer. USA Willows, California USA Central Point, Oregon USA West Cornwall, Vermont 299 Age 1–3 weeks Age 3 months Age 80 days Weight and shape 7oz (200g), container Weight and shape 5lb (21⁄4kg), wheel Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (700g), wheel Size No size Size Various Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat and cow Classification Fresh Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft Producer Sierra Nevada Producer Rogue Creamery Producer Twig Farm

THE AMERICAS Surfing Goat Dairy Tarentaise Taupinière Quark Trained in the Haute-Savoie, the Made in the historic town of Sonoma, The farm is located on the sunny Putnams offer an excellent American this is based on the traditional Hawaiian slopes of Maui’s Haleakala interpretation of Alpine cheeses using taupinière cheese from the French Crater, providing the herd of goats with their organically farmed jersey cow’s region of Poitou-Charentes—the name native vegetation to forage on, as well milk and traditional alpine cheesemaking reflects the shape of the cheese, which as pasture, and adding distinctive equipment and techniques. means “molehill” in French. regional flavors to the milk. TASTIng noTES The deep golden color TASTIng noTES Slightly aged with a seems almost to translate right into the dense texture and pleasant cream TASTIng noTES Smooth on the palate, flavor, with its warm, toasty caramel flavor, the cheese is dusted in blue-gray with a sweet creamy taste and pleasant notes and a touch of acidity on the finish. charcoal powder to create a consistency tangy goat milk finish. It has a strong cherrylike aroma when of soft paste. freshly cut. The texture is initially How To Enjoy Heat in the oven ever so How To Enjoy Serve the Quark with medium dry, but relaxes in the mouth. slightly, and serve with a fresh crusty fresh mango slices and macadamia How To Enjoy Pairing with Vin de Savoie bread and rich full-bodied red wine nuts over salad greens. For a true and some fresh apples is a good place such as Zinfandel. tropical experience, complement with a to start. It makes terrific fondue, too. Kona Brewing Co. Fire Rock Pale Ale. 300 USA Kula, Maui, Hawaii USA North Pomfret, Vermont USA Sonoma, California Age A few days Age 8 months Age 2–6 weeks Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), jar Weight and Shape 18lb (8.2kg), wheel Weight and Shape 6oz (175g), molehill Size No size Size D. 20in (50cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat Classification Fresh Classification Hard Classification Soft white Producer Surfing Goat Dairy Producer Thistle Hill Farm Producer Laura Chenel’s Chèvre

Telford Reserve Thomasville Tomme Triple Cream Wheel At Hendricks Farm, located just outside Sweet Grass Dairy is located on Coach Farm produces exceptional milk USA Philadelphia, they believe in traditional beautiful wooded terrain in southern from its large herd of Alpine goats and sustainable farming, including the use Georgia. The Littles keep a small herd makes a wide range of products. Given of a team of draft horses to work the of goats and Jersey cows, from which the relatively small yield, every drop of farm. They produce roughly ten cheeses, they produce several different styles of cream goes into producing this 75 per alongside many other traditional farm cheese. This one is modeled after cent fat triple-cream goat cheese. products that feed almost exclusively traditional tommes of the Pyrénées. TASTinG noTeS Dense, rich, sweet, and into the local community. TASTinG noTeS Although relatively mild buttery, with a subtle tart finish and TASTinG noTeS Deliciously complex, with in flavor, this cheese has an appealing barely a hint of the goat’s milk, it does a tart bite often found in traditional simplicity that is best compared to not exhibit a tendency to become runny Cheddar and a long butterscotch finish farm-fresh milk: clean, rich, slightly or soupy, as is sometimes the case with typical of premium aged Gouda. it has sweet, and perfectly balanced. The triple-cream cheeses. a firm but not crumbly texture. texture is chewy and semi-soft. How To enJoy Too delicate to cook, try it with Champagne. To indulge, smear on How To enJoy Beer, preferably good lager, How To enJoy ideal for macaroni and pita wedges and top with caviar. is the best match. Great with sourdough cheese, its mellow flavor lends richness bread, country ham, and hot mustard. to recipes without being overpowering. USA Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA Thomasville, Georgia USA Pine Plains, New York 301 Age 10 months Age 3–6 months Age 20–30 days Weight and Shape 8lb (, 3.6kg) wheel Weight and Shape 9lb (4.1kg), wheel Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), wheel Size D. 16in (40cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Producer Hendricks Farm and Dairy Producer Sweet Grass Dairy Producer Coach Farm

THE AMERICAS 302 BLUE CHEESE The holes where the stainless steel rods have penetrated the rind are clearly visible. These create fine tunnels that allow air to reach the interior, encouraging the blue mold added to the milk to turn blue.

Tulare Cannonball Tumalo Tomme Twig Farm Square USA Cheese Made using jersey cow’s milk and the Tumalo Tomme is named after Tumalo 500-year old traditional Dutch recipe in Oregon’s Cascade Mountains; the not able to rely fully on the availability for edam, this is named in honor of “tomme” comes from the style of artisan of goat’s milk, Twig Farm sometimes Tulare County, where the dairy is cheeses produced mainly in the French follows the traditional practice of located and which counts milk as its Alps that bear this name. It is made supplementing its supply with cow’s most valuable agricultural product. with raw milk from a mixed herd of milk. But for certain cheeses, including TASTIng nOTeS It has the classic creamy Alpine, La Mancha, and Saanen goats. this one, it uses only milk from its own texture associated with edam, with a TASTIng nOTeS The pine essence from the herd. Tying it in muslin or cheesecloth spicy aroma and slightly salty finish. aging planks is reflected in the pastoral forms its irregular square shape. The cheese is matured for a minimum flavors that complement the earthy of 5 months, when its flavor reaches its components of this washed-rind cheese. TASTIng nOTeS Hazelnuts are the leading peak of perfection. The finish has floral overtones. flavor, which rolls into a surprisingly HOw TO enjOy For an afternoon picnic, HOw TO enjOy Pear cider enhances the mellow, sweet finish. The rind carries a serve with a selection of fresh melon flavors of Tumalo Tomme, especially certain pungency, but this does not slices sprinkled with pine nuts, and when served with pear compote and penetrate the firm, dense paste. pair with a fruity Beaujolais. crusty walnut bread. HOw TO enjOy Perfect with a honey derived from nut or herbal blossoms. USA Visalia, California USA Redmond, Oregon USA West Cornwall, Vermont 303 Age 5–6 months Age 6 months Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 3–5lb (1.35–2.25kg), Weight and Shape 3–5lb (1.35–2.25kg), Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), flat square ball wheel Size L. 10cm (4in), W. 10cm (4in), Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 6in (15cm) Size D. 61⁄2in (17cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) H. 5cm (2in) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Producer Bravo Farms Producer Juniper Grove Farm Producer Twig Farm

Vaquero Blue Vermont Ayr Vermont Shepherd THE AMERICAS This organic farm produces a wide This cheesemaker is keeper of a herd of Aside from producing this excellent range of handmade ewe’s milk or mixed increasingly uncommon Ayrshire cows cave-aged sheep’s milk cheese, Patch ewe’s and cow’s milk cheeses. Many, on a farm in Vermont’s Champlain Farm has served as a training ground including this one, are cave-aged on the Valley. The cheeses are made in small for many aspiring cheesemakers. To property. Their strictly seasonal batches and lightly brined before being highlight the importance of terroir, production means that many of Willow transferred to the cellar for ripening. each wheel of cheese is delivered with a Hill’s cheeses come and go quickly, but TASTIng noTES The grazing of timothy- certificate detailing the herd’s activity patience is rewarded with exceptional grass, clover, brome, and alfalfa comes on the day of production. quality and dynamic flavors. right through into the cheese. The TASTIng noTES Deliciously sweet and TASTIng noTES Its appearance speaks texture is tight and nutty, but opens up concentrated, its texture is very dense volumes about the cave ripening, but to become creamy in the mouth. The and relaxes nicely in the mouth. True this medium-strong, slightly musty blue flavor builds in intensity and lingers to Pyrenean style, it has a long sweet- is buttery and smooth on the palate. pleasantly before dissipating. savory finish, with a hint of woolliness. HoW To Enjoy Ideal for crumbling into HoW To Enjoy Serve Vermont Ayr with HoW To Enjoy The classic pairing is with salads or grilling on your favorite steak, other medium to mild cheeses as part a black cherry conserve, but it works paired with a Merlot or dry Riesling. of a cheeseboard. nice with Syrah wine. equally well with quince paste. 304 USA Milton, Vermont USA Champlain Valley, Vermont USA Putney, Vermont Age 6 months Age 3 months Age 6 months Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 2–3lb (900g–1.35kg), Weight and Shape 3lb (1.35kg), convex Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 6in (15cm) round drum Milk Ewe and cow Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Classification Blue Milk Cow Milk Ewe Producer Willow Hill Farm Classification Hard Classification Hard Producer Crawford Family Farm Producer Vermont Shepherd Cheese

Wabash Cannonball Winchester Super Winnemere USA Aged Gouda Capriole, founded by Judy Schadd, has Available only from midwinter through an ever-evolving range of French-style Jules Wesselink was born and raised in spring, this is always worth waiting for, goat cheeses distinctively its own. the the Netherlands, where he learned the and its slight variability from year to Wabash Cannonball has been a success traditional Dutch methods for making year always stirs excitement for the for years and was an American Cheese cheese. He has re-created these to cheese to become available. Like Jasper Society award winner in 1995. produce this super aged “boere kaas,” Hill’s other cheeses, the beer-washed tAStiNG NoteS Firm and slightly dry, or farmhouse, Gouda. Winnamere reflects european training. with a thin white rind dusted with ash, tAStiNG NoteS it has a sweet sort of this surface-ripened cheese has a goaty tAStiNG NoteS its smooth, thick rind pungency, but also hints of wet stone. and slightly acidic flavor; the rind lends protects the dense interior with its the full sweet flavor has an almost a pleasant muskiness. the finish is rich myriad holes and tiny calcium crystals baconlike smokiness to it, while the and buttermilky. that crunch in the mouth. By 15 months, paste’s texture is so perfectly velvety HoW to eNJoy ideal with dried fruit and the sweet, buttery flavor becomes sharp that you hardly notice the soft rind. sparkling wine. Bread and crackers and assertive, with a nuance of toffee. HoW to eNJoy Delicious with sweet beers distract from the flavor, so it is best to or cider, this cheese presents very well enjoy this one on its own. HoW to eNJoy Superb on a cheeseboard on lightly toasted rounds of baguette. with almonds, fresh crusty bread, and apples, accompanied by a cool lager. USA Greenville, Indiana USA Winchester, California USA Greensboro, Vermont 305 Age 3–10 weeks Age 15 months Age 2 months Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), flattened Weight and Shape 11–12lb (5–5.4kg), Weight and Shape 11⁄4lb (550g), round ball wheel Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 6in (15cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh Classification Hard Producer Jasper Hill Farm Producer Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheese Producer Winchester Cheese Company

More Cheeses 5 Spoke Creamery Alpine Lakes of the USA Browning Gold Creamy Bleu The following cheeses are The name 5 Spoke Creamery was The milk for this blue cheese comes rare, largely because they are inspired by the ambling bicycle journeys from a herd of mixed east Friesland only available seasonally or around the world of two friends, which and Locaune sheep, which is then because they are produced in they likened to the journey of discovery infused with traditional roqueforti very remote areas. Although when making cheese. All the cheeses are mold to create a pristine, true blue it has proved impossible to handmade in the farmstead tradition, flavor and rustic appearance. photograph them, they are produced on site from the raw milk of a important and interesting closed herd of grass-fed cows. TASTing noTeS Alpine Lakes Creamy examples of cheeses of the Bleu is ripened and brought to market USA, so we are including them. TASTing noTeS This hard cheese is aged when 60 days old. By then it is rich, So, read, savor, and seek out. for 24 months until it is full of rich smooth, and creamy to taste with an buttery flavors and has a firm Cheddar- ivory center streaked with blue. it like texture. intensifies in flavor with age. THe AmeRiCAS HoW To enjoy Truly a fine pairing with HoW To enjoy Serve on a cheeseboard toasted almonds, a fresh-baked sweet with fresh plums, cherries, and a crusty baguette, and a golden Ale. Walnut Levaine loaf alongside an aromatic, crisp White Port. USA Port Chester, New York Age 24 months USA Leavenworth, Washington Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4–4.9kg), Age 2–3 months cylinder Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 71⁄2in (19cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classification Hard Classification Blue Producer 5 Spoke Creamery Producer Alpine Lakes Sheep Cheese Ancient Heritage Scio Bad Axe Beechers Flagship Reserve The cheesemakers at Ancient Heritage Hidden Springs Farm is a sustainable Dairy were impressed by the flavor sheep dairy in the rolling hills of These beautifully cloth-bound wheels, and texture of traditional, european western Wisconsin, combining an aged as Reserve Cheddar, are inspired ewe’s milk cheese, so they decided to old-fashioned, all-natural farmstead by traditional english Cheddar. They recreate one at home in oregon. Ancient with just enough modern equipment are produced using similar methods; Heritage Scio was produced in honor of and science to keep the quality at its they are pressed then bandaged or old-world cheesemakers. peak. Bad Axe is named after the river wrapped to protect the rind during TASTing noTeS The distinct flavors of this that flows through the Westby Valley. ageing. The milk used is a blend of 306 two-month aged, raw, ewe’s milk cheese TASTing noTeS A delectably creamy and Holstein and jersey. stand out as a sweet, moist, and dense sweet semi-soft cheese. The flavor of taste on the palate with a hint of the ewe’s-milk cream stays pleasantly TASTing noTeS At 13 months, the roasted nuts in the finish. on the palate. developed cheddar taste arrives on the palate with a creamy and clean flavor HoW To enjoy Ancient Heritage Scio is HoW To enjoy Pairs perfectly with and a firm, slightly crumbly texture pleasantly delicious when paired with a fresh baguette stuffed with arugula that finishes with a fruity essence. almonds, fresh-baked wheat breads, and tomatoes and served up for an and a nutty Brown Ale. afternoon picnic. HoW To enjoy Sliced and served with a country-style pâté, crusty sourdough USA Scio, Oregon USA Westby, Wisconsin baguette, and a nutty Brown Ale. Age 60 days Age 8–12 weeks Weight and Shape 5lb (2.25kg), wheel Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), wheel USA Seattle, Washington Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 15cm (6in), H. 7.5cm (3in) Age 12–16 months Milk Ewe Milk Ewe Weight and Shape 16lb (7.2kg), truckle Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 9in (23cm) Producer Ancient Heritage Dairy Producer Hidden Springs Creamery Milk Cow Classification Hard Producer Beechers Handmade Cheese

Bleu Age Brindisi Fontina Carmela Rollingstone Chevre, established in Brindisi is the maiden name of The name of the producers of this 1988, was the first farmstead goat cheesemaker Rod Volbeda’s mother, cheese, goat’s Leap, reflects the energy cheese producer in Idaho. From the and Fontina is one of Italy’s great and personality of the La Mancha goats first goat, purchased to provide milk for cheeses, made in the alps since the that graze on the farm, and the fine the family, their herd has expanded to 12th century. This american version life they lead amongst the hills of over 300, from which they now make a is made using 100 percent jersey California’s napa Valley. range of wonderful cheeses, including cow’s milk. TasTIng noTes an elegant and this unusual external blue mold one. TasTIng noTes The jersey milk gives sophisticated raw goat cheese, it is TasTIng noTes Beneath the thick, the cheese a warm golden glow, a rich hand salted and dusted with paprika. midnight-blue Penicillum roqueforti smooth feel on the palate, and a strong Carmela is sweet to the taste and has coat is a thin, almost liquid, sweet aroma and flavor. It has a nutty bite a clean, goat’s-cream finish. It is at its layer, then a firmer nutty interior. and a subtle, sweet cream finish. best when it is 12 months old. It has a distinct, but not strong, goaty How To enjoy Makes an excellent How To enjoy The Carmela is an elegant taste and a spicy blue tang. Brandy Fondue, with dark grain bread, addition to a sunday brunch, served How To enjoy serve with walnuts, slices roasted potatoes and apples, and a alongside honeycombs, fresh cherries, of fresh pears, and a dry Riesling. glass of apple brandy. and Lambic Cherry Beer. USA Parma, Idaho USA Salem, Oregon USA St. Helena, California Age 30 days Age 3–9 months Age 12 months Weight and shape 6oz (175g), round or Weight and Shape 8–10lb (3.6–4.5kg), Weight and Shape 5lb (2.2kg), wheel pyramid wheel Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size Various Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft Producer Goat’s Leap Cheese Producer Rollingstone Chevre Producer Willamette Valley Cheese Company Cayuse Mountain Goat Claire de Lune Creamery Subblime Usa Clare Paris makes raw goat’s and ewe’s This semi-soft cheese forms part of the This cheese owes its name not just to milk cheeses including shepherd’s gem, Pure Luck Texas legacy of organic its flavor, but to “subby,” a La Mancha a hard ewe’s milk cheese; Rosa Rugosa, farmstead goat cheese. The vision was doe in the farm’s herd that once broke a semi-soft ewe’s and goat’s milk cheese; established by sara Bolton in 1979, but her neck and resembled a submarine and Cayuse, which is named after a it continues today through her three while healing! all estrella Family mountain summit in okanogan County. daughters. They now have 100 nubian Creamery cheeses are made with raw TasTIng noTes It has a dense, creamy and alpine goats that graze on the milk and the animals graze on texture and a complex, yet subtle, same five acres, now certified organic, organically maintained pastures. character that has all the nutty and that were purchased by sara. herbaceous attributes of a hard goat TasTIng noTes Ripened for 2–6 months, TasTIng noTes aged for two months to 307 cheese without the feral goaty taste the supple interior is filled with sweet, semi-soft perfection, it has a delicate associated with French-style chèvre. creamy, goaty flavors that are hint of goat and a tang of coastal salt How To enjoy It is best on a cheese plate accentuated by tang notes on the finish. air on the finish. with charcuterie, herbed olives, and How To enjoy Pleasant when served a flavourful Zinfandel. with a glass of Cabernet Franc, How To enjoy Best with a baguette, currants, and a fresh walnut baguette. apple slices, a drizzle of wild honey, and a washington state Chardonnay to highlight the elegant flavors. USA Tonasket, Washington USA Dripping Springs, Texas USA Montesano, Washington Age 6 months Age 2–6 months Age 60 days Weight and Shape 2–3lb (900g–1.35kg), Weight and Shape 21⁄2lb (1.1kg), round Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round wheel Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size Various Size Various Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Ewe and goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer Pure Luck Texas Producer Estrella Family Creamery Producer Lakhaven Farmstead Cheeses

Elk Mountain Ferns Edge Goat Dairy Golden Glen Creamery Mozzarella The production of this semi-soft cheese Fern’s edge Dairy is nestled in the is based on the method used to make foothills of Mount Zion in the Cascade Golden Glen Creamery is the only european mountain-style cheeses such Hills of Oregon. The fresh, artisan farmstead producer on the washington as the Tomme of the Pyrénées. This cheese of the same name is handcrafted coast that hand-makes and stretches american version is named after elk using the milk of the organic farm’s fresh mozzarella. Mountain, near the Rogue River in goats, and seasoned with some of their Oregon, where it is made. home-grown herbs. TasTInG nOTes Moist and creamy to TasTInG nOTes Best eaten when it has TasTInG nOTes a fresh-flavored Chèvre, start, it is rich in flavor and has a aged six months. This cheese is washed it is made by hand to create a delicate delicate texture that reflects the gentle in a local wild Mountain Oregon beer, and soft texture, which is followed by process by which the cheese was made. and the paste has a very buttery flavor a sweet cream finish. and firm texture. HOw TO enjOy serve with fresh pears, HOw TO enjOy Toss in a salad with HOw TO enjOy a true pairing of this some blanched almonds, and a sweet arugula, serve as a snack with a Oregon cheese would be with savory baguette, and wash it down with dribble of fresh pesto, or add to a fresh fig preserves while enjoying an elk a crisp glass of Viognier. tomato and garlic pasta dish. add a Mountain ale. bottle of rich washington syrah to create a fine meal. THe aMeRICas USA Rogue River, Oregon USA Lowell, Oregon USA Bow, Washington Age 6 months Age 1–3 weeks Age 2–10 days Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), wheel, Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), log Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), ball Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size Various Size Various Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Classification Fresh Producer Phoila Farm Producer Ferns Edge Goat Dairy Producer Golden Glen Creamery Midcoast Teleme Ouray Petit Marcel The Original Teleme was created by sprout Creek Farm, who produce this Pugs Leap Farm is committed to Giovanni Peluso, however, the tradition semi-soft cheese, is owned by the sustainable practices and the principles continues to this day thanks to the non-profit organization, society of the of the slow Food Movement, essentially work of third-generation cheesemaker sacred Heart. This society provides that “buying locally brings health, Frankin Peluso. It is still made using thousands of children with the chance economic, environmental, and social rice flour that has been coated Teleme to work with animals and to learn how benefits to the community.” within the state of California. a farm works. TasTInG nOTes The soft, fresh, velvety flavors and overtly pleasant tang of TasTInG nOTes This fresh, butcher’s-block TasTInG nOTes Ouray has a thin, this soft white cheese present a rich 308 shaped cheese is aged for one week in leathery rind dusted with gray molds. and delicate goat’s milk flavor, coupled The dense, creamy paste is filled with with a balance of saltiness from the order to yield a velvety smooth, moist earthy and buttery flavors and a sweet start to the finish. texture and a fresh clean flavor. floral essence. HOw TO enjOy Petit Marcel is HOw TO enjOy Italian salami, Teleme, HOw TO enjOy a fine cheese that is complemented by a handmade pâté, and a sourdough baguette make a perfect paired with fresh currants, fresh baked breads, and a crisp, classic san Francisco north Beach walnut bread, and a good apple cider. light Riesling. sandwich. enjoy it with a glass of old vine Zinfandel. USA San Louis Obispo, California USA Poughkeepsie, New York USA Healdsburg, California Age 1 week Age 2–4 months Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), block Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), drum Weight and Shape 2–31⁄2oz (60–100g), Size L. 8in (20cm),W. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size Various round Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Producer Franklin’s Cheeses Producer Sprout Creek Farm Classification Soft white Producer Pugs Leap Farm

Pine Stump Crottin Pleasant Valley Dairy Point Reyes Original Mutschli Blue This Crottin is made in the traditional French way, where the curd is gently This original washington creation is an since its debut in 2000, this original ladled into molds and allowed to drain artisan cheese that is produced from Blue cheese, made in Point Reyes, off without pressing. over time it the milk of this family farmstead’s California, has become a mainstay on creates a snow-white, round drum with cows. Mutschli was first made to be an cheeseboards and the recipient of a thin white rind. american version of swiss cheese, with numerous cheesemaking awards. TasTinG noTes when young, this goat the same smooth texture but no holes. cheese is delicate and soft. as it TasTinG noTes This blue cheese has ages, the cheese becomes dense and TasTinG noTes The raw milk offers a a pleasant tang, with salty ocean strengthens in flavor, maintaining its mild though sweet milk flavor that flavors developing as the blue-gray original earthy tones. finishes with a hint of toasted walnuts. veins mature throughout the creamy, How To enJoy warmed Crottin, sprinkled smooth white wheel. The taste becomes with cracked black pepper and olive How To enJoy Use it to create a rich more robust with age. oil over frisée greens is a meal that warm dish of potatoes au gratin with offers real pleasure when served with fresh parsley, red onions, and toasted How To enJoy Crumble over a warm dish a fruity Marsanne. walnuts. Complement and accentuate of green beans sprinkled with pancetta its flavors with a nutty brown ale. and savor the taste while enjoying a glass of California Cabernet. USA Omak, Washington USA Ferndale, Washington USA Point Reyes, California Age Over 60 days Age 8 – 12 weeks Age 6–8 months Weight and shape 4–8oz (115–225g), Weight and Shape 2–6lb (900g–2.7kg), Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), wheel drum rounds Size Various Size D. 31⁄2–4in (9–10cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size Various Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Aged fresh Classification Hard Producer Point Reyes Cheese Producer Pine Stump Farms Producers Pleasant Valley Dairy Pozo Tomme Rustic Bleu Goat Samish Bay Cheese Usa Montasio Jim and Christine Macquire started The cheesemakers Jumpin Good Goats making cheese in earnest when they relocated to Colorado in 2009, from although this american cheese is based moved to their small ranch near san where they continue to produce their on the northeastern italian cheese of Luis obisbo in 1999. There they award-winning farmstead products the same name, it has a flavor and established their mixed herd of sheep as well as other new, regionally style of its own that is influenced by and goats and soon after they created inspired cheeses. the grazing and coastal breeze of Pozo Tomme, their flagship cheese. TasTinG noTes The unusual, washed- samish Bay. The milk used comes from TasTinG noTes This semi-soft cheese rind, goat’s milk blue cheese is aged for their own organic herd of Jersey, Dutch develops a thin natural rind and old four to six weeks and finishes with a Belted, and shorthorn cows. world flavors that range from earthy hearty, earthy, and robust blue flavor. undertones to a distinct nuttiness. How To enJoy eat as a salad course, 309 with age it becomes firm, and rich in crumbled into a bed of candied walnuts TasTinG noTes Firm to the touch, it has butterscotch flavors. and seasonal salad mix, or with fresh a rich creamy taste that becomes more How To enJoy serve on its own or, when pears topped with a Champagne flavorful and complex with age. aged, grate over grilled vegetables or Vinaigrette. risotto, accompanied by a Pinot Grigio. How To enJoy Grate over warm ravioli or fresh cooked spinach pasta, and serve with a glass of sangiovese. USA Santa Margarita, California USA Buena Vista, Colorado USA Bow, Washington Age 2–4 months Age 4–6 weeks Age 6–9 months Weight and Shape 5–6lb (2.25–2.7kg), Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz (4kg), wheel wheel Size Various Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size Various Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classification Blue Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Producer Jumpin Good Goats Producer Samish Bay Cheese Producer Rinconada Dairy

The AmericAS 310 COUPOLE Tiny black spots of ash dot the yellow-green barely formed rind, while the white frostlike crystals are the threads or mycella of penicillium candidum molds starting to grow. (See p280).

Steamboat Island Goat Two Faced Blue Up in Smoke Farm Gouda Peccato The underlining character of the Jason Drew, a supporter of the slow The name refers to the fact that it is various cheeses produced by River’s Food movement, established steamboat made using a combination of two milks: edge Chevre is attributed to the island goat Farm in 2006. his raw ewe and cow’s. it is one of several abundance of grazing in the meadows intention was to create handmade goat blues made in the century-old barn on alongside the siletz River and the cheeses that could be produced with the banks of the Chehalis River. surrounding woodlands. Up in smoke integrity and which would support his is, as the name suggests, smoked, then community and family farm. TasTing noTes a vein of musical blues wrapped in smoked maple leaves that runs through each wheel, inspired by have been sprinkled with bourbon. TasTing noTes Farm gouda is a the notes of the cheesemaking. The TasTing noTes The combination of Cheddar-style cheese with a full flavor taste is a blend of earthy and floral smoke, maple leaves, and hints of of goat’s milk, along with balanced flavors, encompassed in a soft, natural, bourbon provide an unusual but meadow and floral undertones and a and blue-gray rind. elegant contrast to the lemony fresh nutty background. tang and creamy texture of the cheese. hoW To enJoy eat with fresh figs, honey, hoW To enJoy serve with crusty bread or hoW To enJoy serve with sourdough rolls and toasted walnut bread for a late maple-toasted walnuts and smoked ale. or as a great alternative to cow’s milk afternoon cheeseboard, alongside Cheddar. excellent with a Pilsner beer. a Washington state Pinot noir. USA Steamboat Island, Washington USA Doty, Washington USA Lodsden, Oregon Age 2–6 months Age 3 months Age 1–3 weeks Weight and shape 2–10lb (900g–4.5kg), Weight and Shape 10lb (4.5kg) wheel Weight and Shape 5oz (140g), square round Size Various Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size Various Milk Ewe and cow Milk Goat Milk Goat Classification Blue Classification Fresh Classification Hard Producer Willapa Hills Farmstead Cheese Producer River’s Edge Chevre Producer Steamboat Island Goat Farm Vache de Vashon Widmers Cellars Aged Yerba Santa Dairy Usa Brick Cheese Fresca influenced by the alpine regions of France, italy, and switzerland, sea Joe Widmer, a third generation The family originally came from Peru Breeze has created their own unique cheesemaker in the town of Theresa, where they made cheese, but moved to cellar-aged regional and original raw Wisconsin makes a large range of the United states and in 1986 bought a milk cheeses. cheeses including this aged brick, a farm where they strive to create a TasTing noTes The essence of apples Wisconsin original first made in 1877 model of sustainable agriculture and and pears tease the palette, with a that is washed or smeared to create the excellent goats’ milk cheeses. sweet and delicate rich, buttery texture orange sticky rind. on the finish. TasTing noTes Freshly made and 311 hoW To enJoy you can appreciate Vache TasTing noTes supple and smooth, delivered to market daily, the creamy de Vashon with a dry cider or the flavor changes from mild and taste and brine flavors come through sauvignon Blanc along with sweet sweet with a subtle nuttiness to the crumbly texture of this Feta- pound cake for dessert. pungent and tangy when aged. also style cheese. available as a spread. hoW To enJoy serve a chef ’s sandwich hoW To enJoy slices for sandwiches, of Fresca, olives, and roasted red especially with pumpernickel bread, peppers while enjoying with a robust mustard, and onions. good with ale. California Zinfandel. USA Vashon Island, Washington USA Theresa, Wisconsin USA Lakeport, California Age 2 – 4 months Age 8 –12 weeks Age 1–2 weeks Weight and Shape 2–3lb (900g–1.35kg), Weight and Shape 5lb (2.25kg), brick Weight and Shape 4oz (115g) and 8oz wheel Size Various (225g), containers Size Various Milk Cow Size Various Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Producer Widmers Cellars Classification Fresh Producer Sea Breeze Farm Producer Yerba Santa Dairy

canada THe AMeRICAs Allegretto Avonlea Clothbound Baby Blue Cheddar This washed-rind cheese is produced Using raw and pasteurized milk, the in Québec’s far north Abitibi region, an This Prince edward Island Dairy, well grace sisters produce a range of blue, unusual location for dairy sheep known for its delicious ice cream and hard, soft white, and fresh cheeses production. Its producers believe that funky cow-inspired T-shirts, has moved from their farm on salt spring Island, the pasture’s shorter growing season into cheesemaking using traditional including this Brie-style blue. and the Nordic microclimate give the clothbound Cheddar techniques. TAsTINg NoTes The delicate subtle blue milk a richer, sweeter taste. flavor has a sweet milk aroma, a TAsTINg NoTes The large wheel has an TAsTINg NoTes The gray-green rind bears buttery texture, and a slight cultured off-white paste with a few pinholes. the impressions of the cloth. The aroma cream finish. Its richness and yellow Its nutty aroma and sweet, full flavor is of fruit and nuts, and has the taste of interior are derived from the unique make it very morish. lingering herbs. The cheese’s off-white qualities of the jersey milk. How To eNjoy Melt on a special raclette interior is dense yet crumbly because How To eNjoy savor with a glass of grill, or under an ordinary broiler, and of its long aging. Pilsner, sauvignon Blanc, or Icewine. scrape onto a crusty baguette, or try it Melt over poached pears with toasted with steamed asparagus. serve with an How To eNjoy Melt on open-faced roast walnuts for a succulent dessert. amber ale, dry Riesling, or Zinfandel. beef sandwiches, grate into cider and maple syrup soup, or mix into mashed potatoes. enjoy with ale or Merlot. 312 CANADA La Sarre, Québec CANADA Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island CANADA Salt Spring Island, British Columbia Age 60–75 days Age 12–18 months Age 30–45 days Weight and Shape 71⁄2lb (3.5kg), wheel Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg), tall Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g), round Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm) cylinder Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Ewe Size D. 91⁄2in (24cm), H. 8in (20cm) Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Classification Blue Producer Fromagerie La Vache à Maillotte Classification Hard Producer Moonstruck Organic Cheese Producer Cows Inc.

La Barre du Jour Bleu Bénédictin Bouquetin de Portneuf Québec cheesemakers are creating new Produced at Abbaye Saint-Benoît-du- An artisanal farmstead-produced CAnAdA versions of european classics. this is a Lac, a Benedictine monastery set cheese based on the famed Crottin goat’s milk version of the Swiss Raclette among woodlands on the edge of a lake, de Chavignol, this aged fresh goat’s (see p241) and has a thin layer of red this blue won Grand Champion at the cheese is eaten from 10 days old up to espelette chilli sprinkled through the 2000 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix. 2 months. the change in its flavor center like a spicy Morbier (see p69). tAStinG noteS Blue Bénédictin has profile is quite amazing. tAStinG noteS the thin line of red offsets pronounced streaks and patches of tAStinG noteS Creamy when young with beautifully the ivory white-colored blue-green veins throughout the a rich, lingering flavor and a slight interior, and the flavors are delicate off-white paste, an aroma of mold and herbal, barnyard aroma; the older and mild—until your taste buds detect salt, and a lingering spicy, salty tang. cheese is more dense in consistency, the heat and spiciness of the chilli. how to enjoy Serve melted over a with light brown and gray molds on the how to enjoy this delicious melting juicy steak with a red wine jus. Many rind and a piquant aftertaste. cheese can be used in a spicy version of Canadian sommeliers match this how to enjoy Melt the young cheese into raclette with steamed vegetables, champion with another Canadian icon, scrambled eggs with chives, or try with grilled sausage, or shrimp. A dark beer icewine. the wine’s sweetness perfectly chanterelles, leeks, and puréed garlic. or a Merlot would be a good match. balances the saltiness of the cheese. Chardonnay or Pilsner matches well. CANADA Mont-Laurier, Québec CANADA Saint-Benoît-du-Lac, Québec CANADA Saint-Raymond de Portneuf, 313 Age 45–60 days Age 3–5 months Québec Weight and Shape 4lb (1.7kg), wheel Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), wheel Age 10–60 days Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (95g), cylinder Milk Goat Milk Cow’s milk Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Classification Flavor-added Classification Blue Milk Goat Producer Fromagerie Le P’tit Train du Nord Producer Abbaye Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Classification Aged fresh Producer Ferme Tourilli

Le Cabanon Le Cendré des Prés Cheddar Curds This artisanal farmstead cheese is This Camembert-style cheese was first eastern Canadian Cheddar makers made by Fromagerie La Moutonnière, made by Fromagerie Domaine Féodal discovered that the fresh unpressed one of the pioneers in ewe’s milk cheese in 2001. It is produced using local, curds were a delicious “squeaky” and in Québec. It is wrapped in both maple organic ayrshire cow’s milk and has a salty snack popular with their regular and grape leaves that have first been decorative layer of maple ash running patrons. goat’s and ewe’s milk versions soaked in alcohol, such as eau de vie. through its center. are now appearing in shops. THe aMeRICas TasTIng noTes Upon unwrapping the TasTIng noTes The soft, creamy off-white TasTIng noTes The white or orange- small cheese from its leafy cover, you paste has a sweet aroma and mushroom colored curds must be “squeaky” to be discover an ivory-white rindless cheese. flavor; the ash adds a great visual good. some are flavored with garlic a slight herbal aroma introduces you to component when the cheese is cut. powder, barbecue or souvlaki spices, a lingering grassy flavor, and the soft The rind is soft and slightly spongy. herbs, or maple seasoning. paste melts delicately on the palate. How To enjoy The cheesemaker suggests How To enjoy as a snack, still warm How To enjoy serve with a crisp Viognier stuffing the cheese into a phyllo-wrapped from the vat, or in the Québec dish white wine, whole roasted garlic cloves, seared pork tenderloin. Bake until the poutine—French fries with white and a sliced baguette, or crumble into dough is golden. Riesling, Beaujolais, or Cheddar curds, topped with a brown salads with a light vinaigrette. Pilsner is best savored with this dish. velouté sauce. enjoy with an ale. 314 CANADA Sainte-Hélène-de-Chester, Québec CANADA Berthierville, Québec CANADA All over Age 30 days Age 45–55 days Age Best within 48 hours of being made Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (130g), round Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), wheel Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) bags, Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) finger-shaped Milk Ewe Milk Cow Size No size Classification Aged fresh Classification Soft white Milk Cow Producer Fromagerie La Moutonnière Producer Fromagerie Domaine Féodale Classification Fresh Producers Various

Comfort Cream Le Cru des Erables Le Délice des Canada Appalaches niagara Peninsula’s Upper Canada Influenced by the aromas of its Cheese Company, the first in the recent surroundings, this washed-rind cheese named after the nearby appalaches wave of new artisanal cheesemakers in is made in an old maple syrup shanty— mountain range, the cheese is washed ontario, produces this Camembert- where the sap is boiled and reduced to with ice cider, a unique frozen apple- style cheese. It is made using milk from a thick, sweet syrup—then washed in a based Québec drink. apples are left to a single herd of local guernsey cows. local maple sap liqueur. freeze outdoors, before being pressed tastIng notes the warm yellow paste tastIng notes Beneath the pale to produce this regional speciality. has a subtle mushroom aroma, and the pink-orange rind, the light yellow paste rich guernsey milk gives the supple has a smooth, satiny texture, while the tastIng notes a pale orange rind, interior a delicate, buttery flavor. full, persistent flavor has beefy off-white paste, supple and velvety how to enjoy Bake in buttery phyllo undertones and a slight barn aroma. texture, scents of apples and nuts, and a dough with local wine jelly. Remove the how to enjoy Melt over mushrooms mild flavor with a slight lactic aftertaste. rind, and melt the paste with other sautéed with garlic, or serve on a cheese to produce a variation of a grilled slice of baguette as a great how to enjoy serve with an apple-based normandy seafood fondue. serve with winter snack. Matches well with amber beverage such as hard cider, Calvados, a niagara Peninsula Chardonnay. ale or Baco noir red wine. or ice cider. It melts very well, making it ideal for fondue or used in béchamel sauces to accompany pork dishes. CANADA Jordan Station, Ontario CANADA Mont-Laurier, Québec CANADA Plessisville, Québec 315 Age 30–45 days Age 45–60 days Age 45–60 days Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), wheel Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), wheel Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), square Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size L. 5in (12cm), W. 8in (20cm), Milk Cow Milk Cow H. 2in (5cm) Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Upper Canada Cheese Company Producer Les Fromages de l’Erablière Classification Semi-soft Producer Fromagerie Éco-Délices

Dragon’s Breath Blue Harvest Moon OKA Classique the americas this small black bell of blue cheese gitta sutherland makes this washed- one of canada’s best-known cheeses, covered in a thick black wax coating is rind cheese only at the full moon. this was originally produced at the made by maja and Willem van den Poplar grove is in British columbia’s trappist monastery in oka, Québec, hoek, who recommend that you slice okanagan Valley, renowned for its using methods taught to the monks by off the top and inhale, and, if there is bountiful harvest of apples, nuts, a visiting brother from the abbaye any mold under the wax, mix it in. and grapes. Port-du-salut in France. agropur, the tasting notes Under the black wax, the tasting notes the pale yellow paste has province’s largest dairy cooperative, white paste has a few holes, a spicy a buttery aroma, supple, silky texture, now produces it commercially. blue aroma, with a subtle creamy and delicate cream flavor. the pale tasting notes Washed in brine, this has saltiness and lingering flavors, but no orange rind, characteristic of washed a tangerine coloured sticky rind with a bitterness or harshness—despite what cheeses, gives it a slight salty aroma. light yellow pinholed paste, and a its name might imply. hoW to enjoy serve on a cheese platter nutty, salty aroma. With age, it becomes hoW to enjoy stuff it into ravioli with with frozen grapes and candied or spicy more meaty, piquant, and farmyardy. leeks or stir it into freshly cooked walnuts. it goes well with a wheat beer hoW to enjoy great on a cheeseboard, in pasta, or as a topping for dried apricots. or okanagan chardonnay. tarts, or melted on potatoes. a Belgian- match to icewine, beer, or dry riesling. style beer is a good accompaniment. 316 CANADA Upper Economy, Nova Scotia CANADA Penticton, British Columbia CANADA Oka, Québec Age 30–45 days Age 30–40 days Age 45–75 days Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), cylinder Weight and Shape 7oz (190g), wheel Weight and Shape 5lb (2.5kg), wheel Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer That Dutchman’s Farm Producer Poplar Grove Cheese Company Producer Agropur Cooperative

Old Grizzly Le Paillasson de l’isle Piacere d’Orléans This aged traditional gouda-style similar to a Corsican Fleur du Maquis cheese is made by an award-winning This simple fresh cheese introduced in (see p59), this cheese is coated with Dutch artisanal cheesemaker, within 1635 by the first French colonists on rosemary, summer savory, juniper sight of alberta’s Rocky Mountains. all the Ile d’Orléans near Québec City, it berries, chili, and a touch of gray-green of sylvan star’s cheese are made with had all but died out until being revived mold, and is made with ewe’s milk milk from its own herd. in 2003 by Jocelyn Labbe. produced by local Mennonite farmers. TasTIng nOTes Over the two-year TasTIng nOTes The lemon-fresh taste TasTIng nOTes Piacere’s white interior CanaDa maturing period, the milk proteins with the sweetness of fresh milk and a has a delicate, slightly sweet flavor caramelize to a light brown color. when hint of saltiness. This cheese has a firm that balances well with the lingering you break a piece off the large boulder- but moist texture perfect for grilling. flavors provided by the herb- and shaped wheel, a sweet cultured-cream hOw TO enJOy serve fresh with fruit, or spice-coated rind. with age, the paste aroma is evident and the cheese has a pan-fried with maple-caramelized becomes very soft and creamy. sweet-savory tang. apples, smoked salmon, and mesclun. hOw TO enJOy superb on a cheeseboard, hOw TO enJOy grate over potatoes, soups, Try with sautéed onions and shiitake but Piacere also melts well when baked pasta, and casseroles, or use in sauces. mushrooms. a light white wine works or broiled. a fruity white or a Merlot Match with a big red or a strong beer. well with this salty cheese. would be a good complement. CANADA Red Deer, Alberta CANADA Ile d’Orléans, Québec CANADA Millbank, Ontario 317 Age 2 years Age 3–10 days Age 30–45 days Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), wheel Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), disc Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g), wheel Size D. 14in (36cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 1⁄2in (1cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classification Hard Classification Fresh Classification Flavor-added Producer Sylvan Star Cheese Producer Les Fromages de l’isle d’Orléans Producer Monforte Dairy

the aMeRiCas Prestige Le Sabot de La Sauvagine Blanchette Fromages Chaput make an interesting Made by La Fromagerie alexis de range of raw cow’s and goat’s milk the guitels have been making raw Portneuf, a large-scale producer of cheeses based on French artisan recipes. and pasteurized cheese from their own numerous cheeses, La sauvagine is a Prestige is a large aged fresh cheese herd of cows and goats since 1995, double cream cheese washed in brine. that is made to appeal to those who using recipes from their homelands, it won grand Champion at the 2006 like a distinctly goaty cheese. France and switzerland. included Canadian Cheese grand Prix. tasting notes the smooth, dense white among these is Le sabot, based on the tasting notes the added cream makes interior is covered in black olivewood cheeses of the Loire. it almost runny, rich, and buttery, with ash overlaid by white and gray molds, a hint of mushrooms. the washed adding complexity to the cheese’s fresh, tasting notes the soft, satiny texture orange rind with its dusting of white aromatic, and slightly peppery taste. with a delicate sweetness counteracts has a rustic, farmyardy taste. how to enjoy Perfect for a cheeseboard the lactic goaty aromas. as it ages, blue how to enjoy this is superb on its own, melted on crusty bread and served with molds appear on the thin wrinkly rind. but its supple texture means it also thinly sliced cucumber or leafy green melts well, especially when broiled. the salad. Both sauvignon Blanc and dry how to enjoy an attractive cheeseboard creamy richness goes well with ale or a Riesling make good partners. choice that also bakes superbly, juicy red from Cahors. especially in quiches and tarts. serve with crisp whites, rosé, or light beer. 318 CANADA Châteauguay, Québec CANADA Saint-Roch-de-l’Achigan, Québec CANADA Saint-Raymond-de-Portneuf, Québec Age 45–60 days Age 30–45 days Age 30–45 days Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), wheel Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), pyramid Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), wheel Size D. 7in (17.5cm), H. 5in (12.5cm) Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (3cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Classification Aged fresh Classification Semi-soft Producer Fromages Chaput Producer Fromagerie La Suisse Normande Producer La Fromagerie Alexis de Portneuf

Seven-Year-Old Sieur de Duplessis Vicky’s Spring CAnADA Orange Cheddar Splendour Pressed and washed in brine, then aged A farmer-owned cooperative, Pine River for a period of up to nine months, Sieur All of Fifth town’s cheeses are made was established in 1885 on the banks of de Duplessis is Atlantic Canada’s only with local goat’s or ewe’s milk, and the river of the same name near Lake unpasteurized ewe’s milk cheese. aged in subterranean caves for extra huron. today, Cheddar is its main tASting noteS the mottled golden brown flavor. Vicky’s Spring Splendour is business and is colored with annatto, to rind surrounds a firm, dense pale covered in a colorful mix of herbs and give it a bright mandarin-orange color, yellow interior that has the sweet, named after the local organic grower. then aged for seven years. nutty taste of ewe’s milk, with floral notes from the pastures. As the cheese tASting noteS the herbs grow into the tASting noteS the long, slow aging ages, the flavor becomes more intense, white rind, imparting their distinctive process causes calcium crystals to form, with a rich meaty finish. flavor to the cheese’s soft, slightly providing a flavor burst and sharp tang. how to enjoy Although this is almost too chalky interior. the finish has a crisp the texture is hard, dry and crumbly. good to cook, it has all the versatility of acidity with vegetal notes. a hard cheese and lends its sweetness how to enjoy this extremely versatile to any dish. Match with a full-bodied how to uSe elegant on a cheeseboard, it hard cheese is regularly found served white, fruity red, or indian Pale Ale. also adds another dimension crumbled with apple pie, an ontario favorite. into salads or baked in fresh figs. Serve enjoy with strong ale, stout, or porter. with a Zinfandel or india Pale Ale. CANADA Pine River, Ontario CANADA Sainte-Marie-de-Kent, New CANADA Waupoos, Ontario 319 Age 7 years Brunswick Age 30 days Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5 kg), block Age 3–9 months Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (120g), log Size L. 12in (30cm), W. 10in (25cm), Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), wheel Size L. 4in (10cm) H. 2in (5cm), H. 18in (45cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classification Soft white Classification Hard Classification Hard Producer Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Producer Pine River Cheese and Butter Co-op Producer La Bergerie aux 4 Vents

mexico Queso Anejo Queso Blanco Queso Fresco The AmericAs meaning “aged cheese,” Queso Anejo simply meaning “white cheese,” this introduced by the spanish it means is simply an aged version of Queso skimmed cow’s milk cheese is prevalent simply “fresh cheese” and is consumed Fresco, or “fresh cheese” and was throughout mexico and Latin America. within a few days as it has high originally made purely with goat’s resembling a cross between salty moisture content. made by curdling milk, though nowadays it is more likely cottage cheese and mozzarella, it is cow’s and goat’s milk then lightly to be made with goat’s and cow’s milk, made by coagulating the milk with pressing the cheese, it is made in due to demand. lemon juice and scalding the curds homes and large factories. TAsTing noTes it becomes firm, chewy, before pressing and kneading them. TAsTing noTes it is very white, creamy, yet crumbly with age and has mild TAsTing noTes Lemon fresh and with spongy, slightly grainy, and mild with herbacious notes that are heightened a buttery mild flavor, it is firm and a fresh lemony acidity and slight when cooked, A salty bite, and elastic to the bite. saltiness somewhere between ricotta definitely hot when rolled in paprika. how To enjoy Used as a topping for and Feta. how To enjoy grated or shredded onto spicy dishes such as enchiladas and how To enjoy crumbled over enchiladas various dishes including chili con empanadas, or crumbled over soups or or used as a filling in many mexican carne, enchiladas, and tacos. it is also salads. in Peru it is melted with spices dishes, it softens and becomes creamy great crumbled over salads. to make a cold sauce for boiled potatoes. when heated, but it will not melt. 320 MEXICO All over MEXICO All over MEXICO All over Age 2–8 months Age From a few days Age From 1 to 5 days Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb–11lb (5–10kg) Weight and Shape Various Weight and Shape Various rounds or blocks Size Various Size L. 31⁄2in (9cm) W. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size L. 31⁄2in (9cm) W. 31⁄2in (9cm), Milk Cow H. 3⁄4in ( 2.5cm) H. 3⁄4in (2.5cm) Classification Fresh Milk Cow or Goat Milk Goat or Cow and Goat Producer Various Classification Fresh Classification Hard Producer Various Producer Various

brazil argentina Queijo Mineiro Requeijão Cremoso Sardo a household staple in the hilly Minas this very popular and now mass- it takes its name and basic recipe brazil and argentina gerais region of brazil that produces produced cheese can be traced back to from the famous italian sheep’s milk more coffee and milk than any other an italian immigrant named Mario cheese Pecorino Sardo, which it state in brazil. Made by thousands of Silvestrini who developed the cheese emulates, and although its hard, grainy small producers, the cheese arrived in back in 1911. the cheese is made using texture is similar, it is made with cow’s the region with the Portuguese a secret recipe and is now synonymous milk and the thin rind is waxed with explorers of the 1500s. with the large manufacturer Catupiry. red or black wax. taSting noteS Soft and moist with a taSting noteS Soft white, tangy, and taSting noteS Hard but less grainy than very mild salty tang and hint of lemon creamy, this cheese is easily spreadable, italian Pecorino, it has a richness in on the palate, it becomes yellow with with the consistency of cream cheese the mouth and sharp, salty taste with a a white center with age, and develops but without the sweet taste. lingering raw onion bite on the finish. a deeper tang and slight bitterness. How to enjoy a great snacking cheese, it How to enjoy excellent grating cheese, How to enjoy Usually eaten at breakfast can be eaten on bread or crackers, as a it is sprinkled onto to various local with French bread, it can be used as a stuffing in savory pastries, or even on dishes as well as pasta and salads, or filling in the traditional Pão de queijo, pizzas. it can also be used as a dessert. thinly sliced as a snack. bread balls stuffed with cheese. BRAZIL Minas Gerais BRAZIL Minas Gerais ARGENTINA All over 321 Age From 4 to 10 days (to a few months Age From 4 to 10 days (to a few months Age 9–18 months when aged) when aged) Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb–11lb (3–5kg) Weight and Shape Various Weight and Shape Various drum Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Classification Hard Producer Various Producer Laticínios Catupiry® Ltda Producer Various

Japan n Sakura HOkkaIDO Due to the introduction of yogurt drinks, an increase in the number of Western restaurants Yama No Cheese during the 1964 Tokyo Olympics and the Osaka Robiola Expo in 1970, and more Japanese natives traveling abroad in the 1980s, milk products, which were once considered inedible by the Japanese, became a part of the once rice- dominated Japanese diet. Initially, most cheeses were processed, but after the year 2000, subsidies and technical support from the government led to an increase of cheesemakers, which is why Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido, now boasts more than 30 cheesemakers. Most cheeses are like Camembert, Emmental, and Edam in style, but some retailers, such as Fromagerie Fermier, are experimenting with small, unique cheeses. Key ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI,oorrPPDDOOcchheeeesseess Produced only here Produced throughout the region Guernsey Cream Provolone Japan Kachokabaro HOnsHu Mori No Cheese Petit Nuage Serendipity sHIkOku kyusHu 100 miles 100 km

japan Guernsey Cream Kachokabaro Mori No Cheese Made on Sado Island, once a place of Say the name aloud and you realize it a japanese original, this washed-rind japan exile for political prisoners and even a is Caciocavallo, the Italian cheese made cheese has a sticky, mandarin-orange deposed monarch, it is now a pleasant in the shape of a small gourd. Made by rind dusted with blue-gray molds. getaway and home to a herd of one of japan’s most renowned Made from the milk of a single herd guernsey cows. originally from the cheesemakers, Yoshida Farm, who also of brown Swiss cows that graze the small island off the southern coast of make a Camembert, ricotta, fresh high mountain pastures giving the england, the breed thrives in the lush mozzarella, and rakoret (raclette). cheese a darker color and richer taste. pastures on the island. TaSTIng noTeS It has a hard edible rind, Mori is the japanese word for “forest,” TaSTIng noTeS The thick, sweet milk firm, straw-colored fibrous texture, and so the name literally means, “cheese of with its yellow tinge is characteristic is slightly sour with a rich lingering the forest.” of guernsey cows and gives this creamy milky flavor when young. With age the TaSTIng noTeS Supple with lots of small cheese a smooth, moist yet dense feel taste becomes dense with umami. eyes, both aroma and taste are almost like a thick cheesecake. hoW To enjoY Cut into chunks and put reminiscent of fallen leaves in the forest hoW To enjoY With pickled plums, called on a brochette, then melt or grate and with a wonderful strong robust flavor. Kishu no Umeboshi, and toasted bagels, use in various recipes. hoW To enjoY excellent with medium- to which bring out the milk’s character. full-bodied red wine or rice wine. JAPAN Sado, Niigata JAPAN Kaga-gun Kibi Chuo, Okayama JAPAN Matsumoto, Nagano 323 Age 2–10 days Age 2–3 months Age 3–8 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), pots Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 14oz Weight and Shape 9–101⁄2oz (250–300g), Size D. 3in (7cm), H 21⁄2in (6cm) (500g–850g), teardrop or pear round Milk Cow Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), L. 57⁄8in (15cm) Size Various, D. 41⁄2in (10.5cm), H. 11⁄2in Classification Fresh Milk Cow (3.5cm) (pictured) Producer J.A. Sado Milk Kobo Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Yoshida Farm Classification Semi-soft Producer Shimizu Farm

Petit Nuage Provolone Robiola japan Based on the Corsican cheese Brocciu, The expense of importing cheese from Based on the popular Italian cheese of petit nuage is made from the whey of europe to japan has lead to the the same name (see p136), Robiola Brown Swiss cows. Its name, “small development of many great japanese means “to become red” in Italian, and cloud” in French, refers to its small alternatives such as this one, which is refers to the reddish hue that develops size and white appearance. after based on the famous Italian stretched on the rind as a result of washing with draining, the fresh cheese is turned curd cheese of the same name (see p129). “grappa,” or grape-based spirit. out of its molds bearing the imprint of TaSTIng noTeS It has a sweet melted Shiranuka Farm is situated near the the basket weave. butter taste, a fine slightly smoked rind coast on the east Side of hokkaido. TaSTIng noTeS Made by heating the that is covered with wax, and a subtle TaSTIng noTeS The rich, sweet milk is fresh whey, this cheese is very white smoky aroma. Best eaten cooked, as the converted into a strong pungent, meaty and very mild with the sweetness of taste will be more intense. cheese with the classic supple texture milk. The light, delicate almost mousse- how To enjoy Try baking it over rice of washed rind cheeses. like fine curd feels like eating a cloud. cakes, especially those made with local how To enjoy Delicious melted on how To enjoy Delicious as a dessert with rice, Nitamai, or on local beef, Oku- oysters, with potatoes, full-bodied red jam or honey or in savory dishes, such Izumo, and serve with soy sauce. also wine, or with locally made grape jam. as pasta or quiche. works well baked with honey. 324 JAPAN Matsumoto, Nagano JAPAN Unnan, Shimane JAPAN Shiranuka Gun, Hokkaido Age 2–10 days Age 1–3 months Age 4–8 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), flat round Weight and Shape 13oz (380g), drum Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb–3lb 3oz Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 3in (8cm), H 2in (4.5cm) (1–1.5kg) Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. 81⁄2in (22cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Producer Shimizu Farm Producer Kisuki Nyugyo Classification Semi-soft Producer Shiranuka Farm

Sakura Serendipity Yama No Cheese The cherry blossom, known as Sakura produced from spring to fall from goats Yama literally means “cheese of the japan in japan, that for just a week every that graze on the japanese alps in the mountain,” and is loosely based on year paints the country a candy floss village of Hakuba. Once formed, they the cheeses made in the French alps. pink, inspired the cheesemaker to are removed from their small round Made on the eastern most part of create japan’s first original cheese. molds, and preserved in pots in rice oil Hokkaido, the north island of japan, produced on the cooperative, Kyodo and locally grown herbs. where from spring to fall the cows gakusha shintoku Farm. TasTing nOTes it has a mild taste that graze the Tokachi plains. TasTing nOTes Mild, lemony with a melt- balances well with the herbs and subtle TasTing nOTes Long affinage gives it a in-the-mouth feel and an earthy aroma rice oil, which is very light and draws firm, compact texture and a complex, from the cherry leaves it is aged on. out the delicate flavor of the cheese. nutty, rich lingering flavor and aroma. when ripe, it becomes creamy beneath HOw TO enjOy Best enjoyed with a little its deep yellow color is the result of the the soft rind and the aroma deepens. of the oil on fresh bread or spread on lush, green summer pastures. HOw TO enjOy an elegant addition to a rice crackers with a glass of rosé. also HOw TO enjOy Delicious on a cheese plate cheeseboard and can be served with very versatile in cooking and salads. served with coffee, roasted green tea, green tea or red wine, such as pinot salad, or with Hakushaku potatoes. noir. also great with grilled Kobe beef. JAPAN Shiranuka Gun, Hokkaido JAPAN Matsumoto, Nagano JAPAN Shibetsu Gun, Hokkaido 325 Age 2–4 weeks Age From 10 days to a few months Age 6–18 months Weight and Shape 3oz (90g), round Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g), jars Weight and Shape 221⁄2–243⁄4lb Size D. 23⁄4 in (6.5cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 2in (5.2cm), H 1in (2.5cm) (10–11kg), wheel Milk Cow Milk Goat Size D. 14in (36cm), H 4in (10cm) Classification Soft White Classification Fresh Milk Cow Producer Kyodo Gakusha Shintoku Farm Producer Kaze No Tani Farm Hakuba Classification Hard Producer Mitomo Farm

NortherN territory QueeNslANd AustrAliA south AustrAliA New south wAles great australian bight N Woodside Edith Washington Washrind 200 miles Holy Goat La Luna, 200 km Holy Goat Pandora Richard Thomas Fromage Blanc, VictoriA Yarra Valley Dairy Persian Fetta Shaw River Meredith Blue Buffalo Mozzarella indian ocean Ironstone Extra NortherN coral sea Gunnamatta Gold Gippsland Blue, territory Jenson’s Red Washed Rind, AustrAliA Roaring Forties, Strzelecki Blue westerN Stormy bass strait AustrAliA south QueeNslANd Pacific ocean AustrAliA Healey’s Pyengana New south wAles Heidi Farm Gruyère, VictoriA tasman sea Heidi Farm Raclette tAsmANiA tAsmANiA New ZeAlANd Bruny Island C2, Bruny Island Lewis

corAl SEA AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND Gympie Farmhouse AUSTRALIA Although Australian dairy farming began when the first fleet landed in Chèvre Sydney Cove in 1788, it was not until the end of the gold rush, almost a century later, that cooperatives made Cheddar and butter for export. Milk production mostly takes place in cooler, southeastern coastal regions. Although low-cost industrial production, quarantine, and protective trade policies once created barriers to the production of artisanal cheeses, demand has resulted in adaptations of European recipes to Australian conditions during the past two decades. However, many local and international raw-milk benchmarks are still banned from sale. NEW ZEALAND European migrants to New Zealand in the early 1800s had to bring cattle and cheesemaking skills with them. Small-scale family production of Cheddar and Cheshire gave way to farmer-owned cooperatives, and the first dairy factory opened in Edendale in 1882. With refrigerated shipping, Cheddar became a major export by the 1840s; by the 1920s, cheese and butter were being exported to England. When Dutch cheesemakers migrated to New Zealand in the 1980s with their traditional recipes, the revival of small-scale artisan cheesemaking began. With a growing awareness of the wider cheese world, a growing band of passionate, hands- on cheesemakers began producing alternatives to the great cheeses of Europe and creating unique New Zealand artisan cheeses. NEW ZEAlAND Mahoe Vintage Edam, Mahoe Vintage Gouda Crescent Dairy Farmhouse Canaan Labane Mt Eliza Red Leicester Mercer Maasdam, Meyer Vintage Gouda NortH ISlAND Waimata TASMAN SEA Camembert Key Meadowcroft Farm Goat’s Curd Mt Hector Kapiti ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Neudorf Te Mata Irongate, Richmond Red Te Mata Pakipaki, Produced only here Te Mata Port Ahuriri Produced throughout the region SoutH Zany Zeus ISlAND Halloumi Karikaas Vintage Leyden Barry’s Bay Cheddar Whitestone Windsor Blue 200 miles Evansdale Farmhouse Brie 200 km Blue River Curio Bay Pecorino, Blue River Tussock Creek Sheep Feta

australia Bruny Island C2 Bruny Island Lewis Gippsland Blue ausTRaLIa aND NEw ZEaLaND Nick Haddow is passionate about This is another quirky cheese from Nick Created in 1981 at Hillcrest farm in cheese and studied extensively in Haddow based on a mountain recipe he gippsland, this natural gray rind Europe before settling on Bruny studied in savoie, France. with no milk cheese was the first artisan australian Island, south of Hobart, with his produced on the island, the cheese is blue. Based on gorgonzola, its milk partner Leonie in 2005. C2 was his made from the milk from a single herd comes from the farm’s Holstein Friesian first cheese, named after the vat in of saanen goats near Cygnet on the cows and is matured on wooden shelves which it was created. mainland. It is named after a beloved in special underground cellars built TasTINg NoTEs Best when at least family goat that once guarded the deep beneath the farm dairy. 9 months old, when it develops a vegetable patch next to the dairy. TasTINg NoTEs This rich and creamy blue deliciously rich complex nutty TasTINg NoTEs Ripened under an elegant is at its best when it develops a soft flavor with a hint of caramel and thick natural slate-colored rind, the and sticky texture punctuated with mouth-tingling tang. pure white dense interior is subtly steely blue veins. How To ENjoy Ideal cheese for sauces or nutty with fresh herbal overtones. How To ENjoy a very seasonal cheese— melting, or as it is on a cheeseboard. How To ENjoy Enjoy simply with crusty recommended from late fall to early Match with a dry Tasmanian Riesling. sourdough bread and a glass of chilled summer—to be enjoyed with an Tasmanian sparkling wine. australian late-harvest sweet wine. 328 AUSTRALIA Bruny Island, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Bruny Island, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Neerim South, Victoria Age 9–12 months Age 4–6 months Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 13lb (7kg), drum Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), drum Weight and Shape 12lb (5.5kg), wheel Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 7in (18cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 91⁄2in (24cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Hard Classification Blue Producer Bruny Island Cheese Company Producer Bruny Island Cheese Company Producer Tarago River Cheese

Gunnamatta Gold Gympie Farmhouse Healey’s Pyengana auSTRaLia Chèvre Created by Trevor and jan Brandon at Dating back to 1901, this venerable the tiny Red Hill cheesery on Victoria’s Camille Mortaud learned his craft in cheese from the lush george River Mornington Peninsula, this cheese is the Poitou-Charentes region of France, Valley is the oldest surviving traditional handmade using organic milk from a renowned for its aged fresh cheeses, clothbound australian cheese. farm at Fish Creek in gippsland. open and follows the traditions at Conondale originally made by a cooperative, the to the public, the cheesery is only an hour in the hinterland behind the Sunshine “washed curd” Colby recipe was adopted from Melbourne and takes its name from Coast in southeast Queensland using by the Healey family and is now one of the peninsula’s best surf breaks. milk sourced from nearby Kingaroy. handmade from the milk of its herd of TaSTing noTeS Beneath the slightly Holstein Friesian cows. sticky terra-cotta rind lies a soft and TaSTing noTeS The rind turns a gray TaSTing noTeS Made in various sizes, but creamy cheese with a delicious rich dusty blue the longer the cheese is aged the most sought after are the large finish and a hint of smoke. and can be quite strong; the interior wheels matured for at least a year until How To enjoy Like all intense washed- has a delightful savory flavor with a the moist, open texture develops herbal rind cheeses, it needs a spicy, aromatic delicious lingering goaty finish. hints of pasture and honey. wine, such as a Mornington Peninsula How To enjoy ideal with crusty bread Pinot noir, and crusty bread. How To enjoy ideal with crusty bread and a Tasmanian cider or Pinot noir. and a crisp dry white wine, or melted and served with wild rocket salad. AUSTRALIA Mornington Peninsula, Victoria AUSTRALIA Gympie, Queensland AUSTRALIA Pyengana, Tasmania 329 Age 4–5 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 9–18 months Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round Weight and Shape 4oz (110g), cylinder Weight and Shape 401⁄2lb (18.5kg), wheel Size D. 4in (10cm), H.1in (3cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), L. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 8in (20cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged Fresh Classification Hard Producer Red Hill Cheese Producer Gympie Farm Cheese Producer Pyengana Cheese Factory

Heidi Farm Gruyère Heidi Farm Raclette Holy Goat La Luna AuSTRALiA ANd NeW zeALANd Weighing in at 66lb (30kg), this is Very successfully adapted in the 1980s Holy goat was established at Sutton Australia’s largest handmade artisan by farmer and master cheesemaker grange organic Farm in 2001, when cheese, and has won many accolades Frank Marchand from the traditional Carla Meurs and Anne-Marie Monda since it was launched by Swiss migrant Swiss raclette, this uses Friesian milk returned from studying artisan goat’s and cheesemaker Frank Marchand. from several local farms and has since cheese in europe. All cheese is Heidi Farm is now owned by National won many national awards. handmade in their small dairy using Foods, but the cheese is still handmade. TASTiNg NoTeS Beneath the cheese’s organic milk from a herd of 60 very TASTiNg NoTeS Sold at various ages, but sticky, slightly “smelly” terra-cotta rind pampered goats. at its best when aged for at least a year, lies a creamy pliable interior with a TASTiNg NoTeS Beneath the rind of this when its smooth concentrated texture melange of grassy farm flavors and unusual ring of goat cheese covered develops an intensely rich, slightly a hint of sweetness. with a creeping wrinkled gray mold lies nutty flavor with a hint of honey. HoW To eNjoy A delicious table cheese, a pure white curd with deliciously HoW To eNjoy A wonderful melting or enjoy cut in half and grilled in the complex lingering nutty flavors. cheese, this is particularly good as a traditional manner in front of a hot HoW To eNjoy Perfect with crusty bread base for macaroni cheese. great with grill. Serve with Pink eye or similar and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, La a full-bodied red wine. potatoes and a dry Riesling. Luna also bakes and melts well. 330 AUSTRALIA Exton, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Exton, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Sutton Grange, Victoria Age 9–12 months Age 2–4 months Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 66lb (30kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz (4kg), wheel Weight and Shape 3lb (1.4kg), disc Size D. 18in (46cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh Producer Heidi Farm Producer Heidi Farm Producer Holy Goat Organic Cheeses

Holy Goat Pandora Ironstone Extra Jensen’s Red AuSTRALIA Washed Rind The name says it all! This small drum After studying overseas, Steven Brown is ripened under a cocktail of molds. returned home to the family farm near This bulging soft cheese from Tarago It was created by Carla Meurs and Neerim South in Gippsland to set up a River near Neerim South in Gippsland, Anne-Marie Monda to be enjoyed at small dairy. Ironstone is based on a Victoria, is named after one of the dairy one sitting, and customers claim it traditional Dutch Boerenkaas recipe. founders—cheesemaker Laurie jensen. pairs with everything and never fails All cheese is made between spring and Made on the farm using Friesian to please. fall from the farm’s small herd of Holstein milk, it is matured on wooden TASTING NoTeS At its best when the Holstein Friesians, to ensure the rich shelves and hand-washed until it chalky center has an irresistible soft pastures are reflected in the cheese. develops a bright orange rind. creamy texture that rarely fails to satisfy with its luxurious feel and TASTING NoTeS Matured for up to two TASTING NoTeS Beneath the “pongy” rind refreshingly mild goat flavor. years, Ironstone extra develops a with its hint of yeast and eucalyptus How To eNjoy Cut off the lid, dig out the sensational rich, buttery caramel flavor lies a rich fudgy texture with a mild center in large dollops like clotted reminiscent of shortbread. and creamy flavor. cream, and enjoy with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc or rosé. How To eNjoy A wonderful addition to How To eNjoy Ideal for a cheeseboard. any cheeseboard, or serve in chunks Serve with or without the rind, with with an apéritif. crusty bread and sparkling white wine. AUSTRALIA Sutton Grange, Victoria AUSTRALIA Drouin West, Victoria AUSTRALIA Neerin South, Victoria 331 Age 2–3 weeks Age 18–24 months Age 4–5 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), cylinder Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), boulder Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), round Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (3cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Producer Holy Goat Organic Cheeses Producer Piano Hill Producer Tarago River Cheese

AUSTRAlIA ANd NEw zEAlANd Meredith Blue Richard Thomas Roaring Forties Fromage Blanc Handmade on the Cameron family This full-flavored blue cheese is aptly dairy near Meredith using milk from This soft, tender hand-ladled cow’s named for the strong westerly winds the largest flock of dairy ewes in milk curd from Richard Thomas is that buffet King Island, which lies in Australia, this, the first Australian fresh cheese at its simple best. Using Bass Strait and is famous for the many sheep’s milk blue, was created in 1990. milk from the yarra Valley, it is shipwrecks along its isolated coast. It is still matured in old shipping beautifully presented in self-draining Straw mattresses washed up from the containers next to the dairy, which has containers that ensure that the whey wrecks are said to be responsible for an enviable reputation for its goat’s does not sour the cheese. the island’s grasses and ultimately the and ewe’s milk cheeses and yogurt. quality of the milk. TASTING NOTES Ewe’s milk is highly TASTING NOTES Its delicate silky TASTING NOTES The combination of rich seasonal, but is at its best in early exceptionally moist texture has the creamy milk, blue “roqueforti” molds, spring, when the soft ivory interior unmistakable sweet lactic perfume and a coating of dark blue wax ensures texture of the cheese develops dark of a dairy, with a refreshingly mild this dependable cheese is always very pockets of salty blue molds. lemony acidity. moist in texture with a sweet salty tang. HOw TO ENjOy Serve with toasted walnut HOw TO ENjOy Serve with dark rye bread, bread or drizzled with local honey. HOw TO ENjOy At its best served cold as it and match with a sweet fortified wine. comes, or with homemade preserves or fresh berries for a breakfast treat. 332 AUSTRALIA Meredith, Victoria AUSTRALIA Yarra Valley, Victoria AUSTRALIA Loorana, King Island, Tasmania Age 8–12 months Age 1–2 days Age 10–12 weeks Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), drum Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), pot Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), drum Size D. 51⁄2in (14cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 3in (8cm) Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Fresh Classification Blue Producer Meredith Dairy Producer Richard Thomas Producer King Island Dairy

Shaw River Buffalo Stormy Strzelecki Blue AUSTRAlIA Mozzarella Another great Australian washed rind “Count” Pawel Strzelecki was the first Roger Haldene imported the first dairy cheese, this is named after Stormy Bay person to discover gold in Australia in buffalo into Australia in 1996 against on the windswept coast of King Island, 1835, and it seems appropriate that his all odds and red tape. The herd grazes Tasmania, renowned for its rich and name is now attached to this striking on the lush coastal pastures beside the creamy cheeses. Stormy was originally blue. It uses milk from a nearby single Shaw River, and son-in-law Andrew created by cheesemaker Frank farm and is matured in underground Royal is the cheesemaker. Beurain, using techniques borrowed cellars beneath the dairy. from the traditional washed-rind TASTING NOTES A seasonal cheese at its TASTING NOTES Unlike in Europe, the cheeses of Northern Europe. optimum with spring or fall milk, it is herd is pasture-based year-round, with TASTING NOTES The soft, buttery paste quick to mature and best when its soft the richest, sweetest milk produced beneath the “whiffy” tangerine-colored creamy interior is threaded with steely during the warmer months, especially rind has a very mild creamy flavor and blue veins and the slightly sweet flavor late summer and early fall. slightly salty sea-breeze finish. has a distinct savory tang. HOw TO ENjOy Great on a cheeseboard, HOw TO ENjOy Perfect for a cheeseboard HOw TO ENjOy The slightly firm texture melted on pizza with cracked pepper, or accompanied by a glass of dessert wine makes it ideal for pizza. Also delicious served with baked potatoes and beer. or a Gippsland Pinot. with vine-ripened tomatoes, fresh basil, and extra virgin olive oil. AUSTRALIA Yambuk, Victoria AUSTRALIA Loorana, King Island, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Neerim South, Victoria 333 Age Within a few days of production Age 4–5 weeks Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 1oz (50g), ball Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), brick Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), drum Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 21⁄2in (6.5cm) Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 11⁄2in (4cm), Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 71⁄2in (19cm) Milk Buffalo H. 1in (3cm) Milk Goat Classification Fresh Milk Cow Classification Blue Producer Shaw River Buffalo Cheese Classification Semi-soft Producer Tarago River Cheese Producer King Island Dairy

AUsTRALiA AnD nEW zEALAnD Washington Washrind Woodside Edith Yarra Valley Dairy Persian Fetta Victoria McClurg established Barossa Kris Lloyd makes several dozen Valley Cheese Company in Angaston’s original cow’s and goat’s milk cheeses; There are dozens of marinated main street in 2003, after extensive Edith is one of the oldest and takes its feta-style cheeses in Australia, but the winemaking travels in Europe. The name from the Frenchwoman who first was created by Richard Thomas in dairy makes a range of washed-rind provided the original recipe. its secret 1994, inspired by a Persian recipe and cheeses using cow’s and goat’s milk. is milk quality, handling, and slow using milk collected from yarra Valley The strongest is Washington. overnight fermentation, before being Dairy’s herd of Holstein Friesian cows. TAsTing noTEs A small orange disc with smothered in black vine ash and ripened. a very distinct and indiscreet aroma. TAsTing noTEs Deliciously nutty when TAsTing noTEs Creamy chunks of curd Beneath the sticky rind lies a smooth young, it ages gracefully, as the chalky are marinated in a powerful garlicky silky paste with a mild creamy flavor. center gradually breaks down to a blend of oils infused with crushed HoW To Enjoy Perfect on a cheeseboard, smooth clotted texture. garlic, fresh thyme, and spices. the yeasty flavors in the rind match HoW To Enjoy ideal on a cheeseboard well with the local Coopers ale and matched with crusty bread and HoW To Enjoy A surprisingly versatile wood-fired sourdough bread. Use sauvignon Blanc—but avoid eating the cheese that can be enjoyed straight sparingly when cooking. peppery hot rind when fully mature. from the jar on toast or crackers, drizzled over steamed vegetables, or as an instant dressing for a salad. 334 AUSTRALIA Angaston, South Australia AUSTRALIA Woodside, South Australia AUSTRALIA Yarra Valley, Victoria Age 4–5 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 1–2 months Weight and Shape 8oz (220g), round Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), drum Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), tin Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 3in (8cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft, washed Classification Natural rind Classification: Fresh Producer Barossa Valley Cheese Company Producer Woodside Cheese Wrights Producer Yarra Valley Dairy

new zealand Barry’s Bay Cheddar Blue River Curio Blue River Tussock NEw ZEalaND Bay Pecorino Creek Sheep Feta Since 1989 the walkers have kept alive the tradition started by early English Blue River sources milk from 3,000 Blue River took over the production of settlers of making clothbound Cheddar crossbred East Friesians sheep on its this traditional feta-style cheese from on Banks Peninsular. when Don retired own farms throughout Southland. This another Southland cheesemaker, in 2008, Mike and Catherine Carey impressive cheese is the result of the Chobani. Using the same methods, it stepped enthusiastically into his shoes. unique grazing and head cheesemaker continues to make the best in New TaSTiNg NoTES The only clothbound wayne Robertson’s talent. Zealand and export to the Middle East. rinded Cheddar in New Zealand, its hefty rounds are waxed and matured TaSTiNg NoTES Hard and granular, TaSTiNg NoTES Pure white, definitely for anything up to five years. at their almost crumbly, and straw-colored. sheepy, and fatty, but balanced by the best, these rounds are hard and Sweet and slightly gamey with an edge saltiness of the brine in which the granular, with a sweet but sharp of salt, it is best at a year old when the blocks are stored until sold. This feta mustard flavor. paste remains moist and rich. has a crumbly but moist texture. How To ENjoy Best with good bread and chutney, or an apple, and a bottle of How To ENjoy Eat in chunks with crusty How To ENjoy Perfect for the classic handmade Canterbury beer. bread and quince paste. grate onto pasta, greek salad, drizzled with a fruity risotto, or polenta, or shave onto salads. extra virgin olive oil. Match with a Fruity red wines are a good match. citrussy wheat beer or a glass of rosé. NEW ZEALAND Barry’s Bay, Canterbury NEW ZEALAND Invercargill, Southland NEW ZEALAND Invercargill, Southland 335 Age 2–5 years Age 10–14 months Age 10–24 months Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg) and Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), round Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), block 91⁄2lb (4.5kg) truckles, 79lb (36kg), round Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size L. 8in (21cm), W. 41⁄2in (11cm), Size truckle: D. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 61⁄2in Milk Ewe H. 3in (8cm) (17cm), H. 51⁄2in (14cm) and 61⁄2in (17cm); Classification Hard Milk Ewe round: D. 151⁄2in (40cm), H. 14in (35cm) Producers Blue River Dairy Products Classification Fresh Milk Cow Producer Blue River Dairy Products Classification Hard Producer Barry’s Bay Traditional Cheeses

AustrALiA AND New ZeALAND Canaan Labane Crescent Dairy Evansdale Farmhouse Farmhouse Brie simcha and ilan tur-shalom arrived from israel in 2003, determined to Crescent Dairy Goats is the smallest set up in 1979 by schoolteacher Colin create the best Mediterranean-style cheesemaker in New Zealand with Dennison, to utilize excess milk from cheeses. the result is a range of 17 goats, producing just one 41⁄2lb (2kg) the family’s house cow, and managed by irresistible kosher cheeses bursting cheese a day, yet this hard cheese is a son Paul, evansdale remains small, with character, especially the Labane, consistent winner year after year at the hands-on, and quirky. its Farmhouse a yogurt-based cheese. New Zealand Cheese Awards. Brie has become a New Zealand icon. tAstiNG Notes Light, almost fluffy, it tAstiNG Notes Varying one day to the tAstiNG Notes smaller and twice as melts in the mouth and tastes wickedly next, sometimes with coconut milk thick as traditional brie, the evansdale rich, yet is low in fat. Lemony fresh like discernible, sometimes cinnamon and has a fluffy white candidum rind, a yogurt, it has a subtle, delicate but thyme, but all develop a fresh, earthy smooth and buttery center, and a taste never bland flavor. goaty flavor. Best when still moist and that is both sweet and yogurty sharp. How to eNjoy Combine with olive oil and slightly soft. How to eNjoy: excellent with buttery za’atar to make a superb traditional How to eNjoy too precious as a mere Chardonnay or spritzy Champagne. dip to serve with pita bread and olives, sandwich filling, it should be savored try with fresh fruit platter of apricots, and a crisp white or rosé wine. with a good sauvignon Blanc. nectarines, and peaches. 336 NEW ZEALAND Auckland, Auckland NEW ZEALAND Auckland, Auckland NEW ZEALAND Waikouaiti, Otago Age A few days Age 6–12 months Age 5–10 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), pot Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), round Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), round Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 3in (7cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Fresh Classification Hard Classification Soft white Producer Canaan Cheese Producer Crescent Dairy Goats Producer Evansdale Cheese

Karikaas Vintage Mahoe Vintage Edam Mahoe Vintage Gouda Leyden New Zealand’s most northern the Rosevears produce cheese from New ZeALAND Set up by Rients and Karen Rypma in commercial cheesemakers are situated August through to April using milk 1984, two of the Dutch cheesemakers in lush oromahoe in the Bay of islands. from their small Friesian herd. After 22 who helped to resurrect traditional the Rosevears have been making years they remain small and family- cheesemaking in New Zealand, the cheese from their own milk since 1986. run, skilfully producing some of New Karikaas Dairy is now owned by a very traditionally, this lower fat cheese is Zealand’s best cheese. their gouda is hands-on Diane Hawkins. mild and rubbery, but when aged is as authentic as any made under that more akin to Parmesan. name in the Netherlands. teStiNg NoteS Flavored with cumin and a pale sunshine yellow, this Leyden is tAStiNg NoteS Butterscotch and caramel, tAStiNg NoteS Fudgy, slightly crumbly firm yet supple, sweet, spicy, and with a with a lactic acid tang and crunchy with age, but not dry, the cheese has a hint of curry. At two years old, it is texture, this finishes with a bite sweet toffee caramel richness that drier, sharper, and caramel-sweet. unexpected from a cheese bearing the finishes with a bite at the end. name edam. How to eNjoy Shave over a summer How to eNjoy great melted over How to eNjoy excellent with aromatic salad, or include as the highlight of a potatoes, matched with strong, spicy white or dessert wines, it also stands lunch platter. excellent with a sweet or cured meats. the cumin complements up to a full-bodied red or even beer. peaty single-malt whisky. mulled red wine or dark ales and stout. NEW ZEALAND Loburn, Canterbury NEW ZEALAND Kerikeri, Northland NEW ZEALAND Kerikeri, Northland 337 Age 6–36 months Age 18–24 months Age 18–24 months Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), boulder Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg) or 22lb Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg) or 22lb Size D. 121⁄2in (32cm), H. 5in (12cm) (10kg), round (10kg), boulder Milk Cow Size D. 9in (23cm) or 13in (33cm) Size D. 9in (23cm) or 13in (33cm) Classification Flavor-added H. 4in (10cm) or 41⁄2in (11cm) H. 4in (10cm) or 41⁄2in (11cm) Producer Karikaas Dairy Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Hard Producer Mahoe Farmhouse Cheese Producer Mahoe Farmhouse Cheese

AuSTrALIA AND NeW ZeALAND Meadowcroft Farm Mercer Maasdam Meyer Vintage Gouda Goat’s Curd Maasdam is made by several of New Chosen as “Cheese of the Decade” at Golden Bay, at the top of the South Zealand’s Dutch cheesemakers, juliet Harbutt’s last New Zealand Island, is the sunniest place in New including Albert Alfrink of Mercer Cheese Awards in 2003, this vintage Zealand and where Averill Turnbull Cheese. He sells it from his small shop, Gouda has been handmade by Dutch makes her simple but sublime cheese. which is packed with hundreds of cheesemakers the Meyers since the Her 50 goats are well looked after and different Dutch-style cheeses. 1980s. It uses a traditional recipe with carefully milked—the reason, she TASTING NoTeS Proprionic acid bacteria calf rennet and milk from their herd. believes, her cheese is so good. added to the milk produces the small TASTING NoTeS Smooth, chewy, and holes in the soft, rubbery interior and a caramel-sweet, with a savory tang and TASTING NoTeS Whether it is plain, rolled distinctive fermenting fruit sweetness a sprinkling of calcium crystals. At in fresh herbs, or marinated in oil, the that mellows out with age. With age, it three years, it is as dark, intense, and curd possesses a finely tuned balance of is more like emmental. rock-hard as any Dutch Boerenkaas. acidity and salt, and a texture that is HoW To eNjoy excellent with cured meats, HoW To eNjoy Lovely eaten in generous moist and very slightly granular. particularly ham, it melts beautifully, chunks with sourdough bread, or in a also making it ideal on pizza or in a toasted sandwich with onions. Match HoW To eNjoy Perfect on crusty bread fondue. Lovely with an off-dry riesling. with lighter red wines or lager. with Sauvignon Blanc or Champagne, or spooned over fresh fruit and honey. 338 NEW ZEALAND Golden Bay, Tasman NEW ZEALAND Hamilton, Waikato NEW ZEALAND Hamilton, Waikato Age 0–5 weeks Age 4–7 months Age 18–24 months Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), packet Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), fat boulder Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), boulder Size No size Size D. 13in (33cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size D. 13in (33cm), H. 5in (12cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Producer Meadowcroft Farm Producer Mercer Cheese Producer Meyer Gouda Cheese

Mt. Eliza Red Leicester Mt Hector Kapiti Neudorf Richmond Red Cheesemakers Chris and Jill Whalley Kapiti Cheese was established in 1985 NeW ZeaLaNd started making cheese in 2007 and are and has had a huge influence on New Zealand’s first ewe’s milk cheese, the only New Zealand cheesemakers cheesemaking in New Zealand. Mount Neudorf Richmond Red was created by maturing hard cheeses in cloth. The hector, with its Penicillium geotrichum Kate Light in the late 1990s. Brian Red Leicester curd is finely cut and and P. candidum molds, and pyramid Beuke, her milk supplier, has now twice-milled, to give it a uniquely shape, is decidedly French in style. taken up the mantle and continues to authentic close texture. TasTiNg NoTes: at its best this cheese is make this excellent cheese. TasTiNg NoTes Bright orange from the chalky at the center and runny under annatto, this cheese is dense, smooth, the rind, and smells of hay and nuts. TasTiNg NoTes at 10 months it is dense and slightly sweet, with a strong bite at slightly almondy with a sharp lemony and creamy with a nutty and caramel the back of the tongue. it is earthy and tang, it can become very goaty and sweetness. at 20 months it is hard and deep-flavored near the rind. overripe if left in its wrapper too long. the flavor more intense, but not as sheepy and salty at italian Pecorino. hoW To eNJoy Lovely with darker beers hoW To eNJoy Very versatile when hoW To eNJoy Wonderful with sliced pear and real ale, it is perfect in a sandwich young, this is great with fruit compotes, or quince paste, and the harder version with raw onion or peppery watercress, melted, or spread on a crispy baguette, is perfect grated on risotto or spaghetti, and makes a good Welsh rarebit. accompanied by a dry white wine. with a Pinot Noir or Pinot gris. NEW ZEALAND Katikati, Bay of Plenty NEW ZEALAND Paraparaumu, Wellington NEW ZEALAND Upper Moutere, Nelson 339 Age 8–10 months Age 4–6 weeks Age 10–20 months Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg), wheel Weight and Shape 4oz (120g), truncated Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), round Size D. 91⁄2in (24cm), H. 6in (16cm) pyramid Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Cow Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Ewe Classification Hard Milk Goat Classification Hard Producer Mt. Eliza Cheese Classification Soft white Producer Neudorf Dairy Producer Kapiti Fine Foods

Te Mata Irongate Te Mata Pakipaki Te Mata Port Ahuriri aUSTralIa and new Zealand Set up in 2005, with a viewing galley hawkes Bay’s hot, dry summers one of three blue cheeses made by Te and excellent café, Te Mata Cheese provide the ideal grazing for goats to Mata from both cow’s and ewe’s milk, makes a range of soft and blue cow’s, produce flavorsome, aromatic milk for Port ahuriri Blue distinguishes itself sheep’s, and goat’s milk cheeses. this Brie-style cheese and Te Mata’s from the plethora of “creamy” blue Included among these is Irongate, pyramid-shaped feta-style Mt erin and cheeses available in new Zealand by based loosely on Pont l’Évéque (see p78). lemony fresh goat’s curd Summerlee. not adding extra cream and allowing a TaSTIng noTeS a washed rind with white TaSTIng noTeS Pakipaki achieves the full blue flavor to develop. penicillium mold, it is more flavorful delicate balance of fully realized goat TaSTIng noTeS The strong flavor of Port than most new Zealand Bries, but flavors, without being too much for the ahuriri is balanced by a salty sweet milder than typical washed cheeses. It developing new Zealand palate, and nutty undertone. Its texture is is best when extra soft, russet-rinded, although it can be runny, sticky, and almost fudge-like and slightly crumbly. rich, smooth, and slightly smelly. feral when slightly overripe. how To enjoy Perfect with dried fruits how To enjoy Serve with crusty bread how To enjoy Use for goat’s cheese tart, such as dates or figs, or with sticky and slices of apple and pear, or melt or serve with thin, crisp ginger biscuits. dessert wines, sherry, or port, Port with fried onions. Try with apple or a fine match for Sauvignon Blanc or a ahuriri’s intense flavor also makes it pear cider or even Calvados. lighter malt whisky. ideal for crumbling over salads. 340 NEW ZEALAND Havelock North, NEW ZEALAND Havelock North, Hawkes NEW ZEALAND Havelock North, Hawkes Hawkes Bay Bay Bay Age 6–10 weeks Age 8–10 weeks Age 6–8 months Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), square Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), round Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), round Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 81⁄2in (22cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 81⁄2in (22cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Classification Blue Producer Te Mata Cheese Producer Te Mata Cheese Producer Te Mata Cheese

Waimata Camembert Whitestone Zany Zeus Halloumi Windsor Blue Established in 1995, Rick and Carol Mike Matsis’s passion for cheese Thorpe’s Waimata Cheese Company is set up in the mid 1980s by Bob Berry, started when his Cyprus-born mother the largest independent cheesemaker Whitestone is another early pioneer of taught him to make halloumi, as her in New Zealand, producing more than New Zealand’s cheese renaissance. mother had done before her. Fascinated 300 tons of soft and blue cheese a year. Windsor Blue, its flagship blue, holds by the process, he decided to become a Despite this, its large Camembert true to the company’s mantra: “unique cheesemaker and makes authentic is traditionally mold-ripened and as the land that created it”. Mediterranean-style cheeses. among the best of this cheese style in New Zealand. TasTiNg NoTEs The added cream gives it a TasTiNg NoTEs Eaten cooked, halloumi NEW ZEalaND TasTiNg NoTEs When young, it is mild taste like blue butter. Fruity and sharp tastes deliciously salty, feels slightly and milky, but once ripe can either when young, it becomes sweet, slightly squeaky like a dense mozzarella, and develop into a light runny vanilla salty, and spicy with age. has a caramel sweetness from the milk cream or become strong and “farmy”. hoW To ENjoy spread on crackers or sugars that caramelize on the outside. hoW To ENjoy serve in a properly made baguette, toss into hot pasta, or serve hoW To ENjoy When fried or barbecued fresh crusty baguette, ideally with a with pears and gingerbread for dessert. on skewers, halloumi becomes crisp on good sparkling or light white wine. Match with a slightly sweet, spritzy the outside and melts on the inside. white wine. serve with fruity white or red wines. NEW ZEALAND Gisborne, East Cape NEW ZEALAND Oamaru, Otago NEW ZEALAND Petone, Wellington 341 Age 4–7 weeks Age 3–8 months Age From a few days Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb (800g), round Weight and Shape 2lb (3.6kg), round Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), block Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size D. 8in (21cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size L. 2½in (6cm), W. 11⁄2in (4cm), Milk Cow Milk Cow H. 11⁄2in (4 cm) Classification Soft white Classification Blue Milk Cow Producer Waimata Cheese Company Producer Whitestone Cheese Classification Fresh Producer Zany Zeus

Glossary always been made with skim or low fat milk, MOLD-RIPENED however, have been developed to bring out the best The process by which molds on the rind of cheeses, ANNATTO in the milk and consumers can rarely tell they are typically white, gray-blue, and orange colored, orange-red dye, obtained from the natural lower in fat. speed up the breakdown of the curd. pigments in the seeds of the annatto tree (Bixa orellana). FERMENTATION ORGANIC During ripening, the fat, protein, and Cheeses produced on farms approved by an official, BACTERIA LINENS carbohydrates in the cheese are broken down by government scheme that adheres to the principles Formally known as bacillus linens, this bacteria biochemical changes with the help of temperature, of organic production, such as no pesticides or is used to create the sticky orange rind on humidity, bacteria, and enzymes, which affect the chemicals on the land, in the dairy, or for the washed-rind cheeses. texture, flavor, and aroma of the ripe cheese. animals. Glossary BRINE FULL FAT PASTA FILATA a strong salt solution used to seal the outside Indicates that the milk has not been skimmed also known as stretched Curd, a technique of some cheeses and prevent unwanted mold before being turned into cheese. Most cheeses are whereby curd is immersed in hot acid whey to from growing. made from full-fat milk. It should be noted, make it elastic, then kneaded or stretched in hot however, that the fat content of milk is only water. Examples include Mozzarella and Provolone. BUTTERMILK 3.8 percent for cow’s milk to 16 percent for The slightly sour liquid left after butter has reindeer’s milk, and the fat content of cheese PASTEURIZATION been churned. ranges from 20–34 percent, significantly lower The heat treatment of raw milk for at least one than most people realize. minute at 163°F (73°C) to destroy any potential CAROTENE harmful micro-organisms. Unfortunately, it also The yellow to red natural colorant that comes GLOBULES destroys many flavor-enriching micro-organisms. from grasses and is converted through the liver Form in which fat is present in milk. Fat globules into Vitamin a. vary in size depending on the breed of animal. PASTE Used in European cheeses to describe the interior CASEIN HOOP of a cheese. also known as Pâte. Milk’s chief and particular protein, precipitated in The container into which fresh curd is packed after cheesemaking by acid development and by rennin salting, it typically has a perforated base and sides, PENICILLIUM CANDIDUM enzyme, becoming curd. and an open top. (see also Mold.) a white mold with a mushroom aroma and taste that grows on soft white cheeses such as COAGULATION LACTATION Camembert and Brie. also called curdling, this refers to the The period of time covering the milk production separation of the solids and liquids in milk caused season of a cow, from calving to drying out. PIERCING by acid and enzyme activity and heat. It is the Inserting of needles into a cheese to facilitate the fundamental process in cheesemaking. LACTIC ACID entry and development of blue molds. Formed by the bacterial action on lactose in milk. COOKED CHEESES Within three months, the natural acidity of a PROCESSED CHEESE Cheeses in which the just cut curd is heated or cheese will kill off the remaining bacteria, leaving Cheese is heated along with an emulsifying agent, “cooked” in the whey, rendering the curd more the enzymes to continue the ripening. oil, and water, and shaped when hot and elastic and expelling more whey. immediately sealed in its final pack. LACTIC FERMENTATION CURDS The curdling of milk from lactose to lactic acid PROTEOLYSIS The solid protein that forms when milk coagulates. using only a starter culture (when rennet is not Breakdown of proteins by enzymes, acids, alkalis used), traditionally made by souring the previous or heat. 342 This is the basis of cheese. (see also Whey.) day’s milk or whey. Today, they are mostly prepared in laboratories. also known as lactic Cheese. RANCID ESTERS Used as a general term for unpleasant flavors The fatty acids and glycerides in plants. aromatic LACTOSE in fats. esters from flora consumed by animals give aroma soluble sugar, specific to milk of all mammals. and flavor to cheeses. Converted to lactic acid by the enzyme action of RAW MILK some micro-organisms in the lactic Fermentation. Term used to describe milk, in its natural state, not EYES subjected to pasteurization. The small eye-shaped holes that form in the body MARBLING of some cheeses during fermentation. Most are see Veining. RENNET small and uniform except in the Gruyère-style an enzyme extracted from the stomach lining of a cheeses, such as Emmentaler, where they are MOLD milk-fed animal, which breaks down the solids in round and more often referred to as “holes”. 1. The container into which the fresh curd is milk into a digestible form, helping coagulation. packed after salting, it typically has a perforated FAT CONTENT base but an open top with perforations on the RIPENING Fat is a carrier of flavor and feels soft and creamy walls. The end is fixed. (see also Hoop.) 1. (of milk) Natural maturing of milk through in the mouth. If the fat is reduced or removed from 2. Micro-organisms belonging to the mycota rising acidity before renneting, without addition milk, it will change its depth of flavor and texture family that grow on the outside or inside of cheeses of starter culture. or “mouth feel.” The recipe for cheeses that have and come from the aspergillus, mucor, and 2. (of cheese) Continuing enzyme action of rennet penicillium genus. and completion of bacterial action on curd, and consequent enzyme action.

SERUM Cheese-tasting terms Moist Used in contrast to “dry”, as in the texture of Glossary see Whey. some cakes. The following terms are commonly used to describe Pungent a forceful, pleasant, sometimes almost SILAGE the aroma, texture, and flavor of cheese: bitter flavor reminiscent of chicory, or fresh Grasses and legumes preserved by air-free storage, young grass. with limited fermentation. Acidity In a cheese, like wine, this can be Rubbery a bouncy springy feel and a rippable, a positive attribute if it is not excessive—it rather than breakable, texture SMEAR-RIPENED leaves a refreshing, sometimes tingly, sensation Smooth an absence of any structure, like heavy a cheese whose rind is rubbed or smeared with a in the mouth. cream or custard. solution of brine and bacillus linens, usually with a Soft a yielding texture like mashed potato or cloth that forms a sticky orange rind. Aromatic a sensation of varied and interesting cheesecake. aromas—could be spicy, perfumed, herbaceous, Squeaky When curd is washed it becomes very STARTER CULTURE or fruity. smooth and feels shiny and “squeaky” clean. Typically a combination of lactic bacterial cultures Supple More dense than “rubbery”, as it has an used to start transformation of lactose to lactic acid Bite a distinct, sharp, intense initial flavor, underlying structure. which causes the milk to curdle. Mostly used in usually carried through to the finish. Tangy a tart or acidic flavor that causes the conjunction with rennet. mouth to pucker and tingle. often associated with Bitter a characteristic taste of some cheeses; can mature hard cheeses such as Cheddar. TABLE CHEESE be a positive attribute as in strong Cheddar or a Unctuous Fatty and greasy to English speakers a term used in Italy to describe a hard cheese fault when used to describe Brie. but creamy, rich, and luxurious when used by that can be used as an eating or snacking cheese some Europeans. as well as in cooking, and was traditionally left on Body The sensation of weight and substance in Velvety Thick but soft, smooth, and without the table. the mouth, like red wine or Port. structure, such as processed cheese. THERMIZED CHEESES Dry a feeling of lack of moisture in the mouth. 343 Cheeses whose curd has been heated to 130°F (54°C) in the whey—lower than pasteurization. Earthy an aroma of freshly tilled soil. TURNING Elastic a firm but flexible texture that returns to The process of regularly turning a whole cheese its original shape after gentle pressure, often with while maturing, it ensures that the moisture in a tearable layered texture. a cheese is evenly distributed and the mold grows evenly. Finish The aftertaste, or sensation left on the palate after the last mouthful. VAT a container in which the milk is contained for Friable The tendency of a cheese to crumble into cheesemaking. small grainy fragments. VEGETARIAN CHEESE Fruity a flavor reminiscent of both the odor Cheeses in which a non-animal alternative to and taste of fresh fruit picked at its optimum rennet is used to curdle the milk, in place of the stage of ripeness, such as pears, apples, melons, more traditional animal rennet. The difference in and mangoes. taste in most cheeses is barely distinguishable. Grainy a texture in which barely detectable small VEINING particles can be discerned—these are usually salt also known as Marbling, this refers to the streaks or crystals of calcium lactate. or lines of blue mold found in the body of all blue cheeses. The Italians use the word erborinatura Grassy Characteristic flavor of freshly cut grass. and the French use the term persille (both mean “parsley”) to describe the scattered veining in their Green Grass a fresh, pleasantly sharp grassy traditional cheeses. flavor. WASHED RIND Herbaceous The leafy fragrance of wild flowers, Cheeses that are washed regularly over a period of hedges, and grasses. time, not just once or twice, in a brine solution, often mixed with spices or alcohol, creating a sticky Lactic The taste of slightly soured milk. orange rind. Lactose The sugar in milk that is converted to WHEY lactic acid as the milk sours. The liquid residue of milk after most of the solids, including the fats, have been coagulated into curd. Metallic The mold in blue cheeses can be mild and It is sometimes referred to as serum. slightly fruity, reminiscent of tarragon and thyme, or when strong develops a distinct sharp mineral or metallic taint.

resources Resources 919 F street, Penn Quarter, Washington, D.c. St. James Cheese Company 20004 www.stjamescheese.com If you would like to explore the cheese world Tel: +1 202 393 6880 5004 Prytania streer, New orleans, LA 70118 further, Juliet Harbutt’s website is a great resource. Di Bruno Bros. Tel: +1 504 899 4737 www.thecheeseweb.com. To bring a world of www.dibruno.com cheeses to your refrigerator, this choice of suppliers Trader Joe’s from around the globe is an excellent start. 1730 chestnut street, Philadelphia, PA 19103 www. traderjoes.com Tel: +1 215-665-9220 usA 8928 Holly Ave Ne, Albuquerque, NM 87122 Artisanal 1701 JFK Blvd, Philadelphia, PA 19103 Tel: +1 505 796 0311 www.artisanalcheese.com Tel: +1 215-531-5666 Tel: +1 877 797 1200 5600 N Port Washington rd, Milwaukee, WI 53217 This mail order company ships worldwide. Fahey & Fromagerie Tel: +1 414 962 3382 51 Pleasant st. Nantucket, MA 02554 Beecher’s Handmade Cheese Tel: +1 508 325 5644 3909 Hillsboro Pike, Nashville, TN 37215 www.beechershandmadecheese.com Tel: +1 615 297 6560 1600 Pike Place, seattle, WA 98101 Gourmet International Tel: +1 206 956 1964 www.gourmetint.com Vermont Shepherd Farm Tel: +1 800 875 5557 www.vermontshepherd.com Buzios Brazilian Store This is a mail order store that ships throughout 281 Patch Farm road, Putney, VT 05346 20 West 46th street, New York, NY the us. Tel: +1 802 387 4473 Tel: +1 212 869 6552 Grace’s Marketplace Whole Foods Central Market www.gracesmarketplace.com www.wholefoodsmarket.com www.centralmarket.com 1237 Third Avenue NYc 10021 Ponce de Leon, 650 Ponce de Leon Ave Ne, Atlanta, 4001 N. Lamar Blvd. Austin, TX 78756 Tel: +1 212 737 0600 GA 30308 Tel: +1 512 206-1000 Tel: +1 404 853 1681 81 Glen cove road, Greenvale, Long Island, NY 5750 e. Lovers Ln. Dallas, TX 75206 11548 2693 edmonson rd, cincinnati, oH 45209 Tel: +1 214 234-7000 Tel: +1 516 621 5100 Tel: +1 513 531 8015 3815 Westheimer, Houston, TX 77027 HEB capitol Hill, 900 e. 11th Ave, Denver, co 80218 Tel: +1 713 386-1700 www.heb.com Tel: +303 832 7701 Tel: +1 512 421 1170 4821 Broadway st. san Antonio, TX 78209 4544 south Lamar Blvd, Austin, TX 78745 Galleria, 1601 s. Brentwood Blvd, st. Louis, Mo Tel: +1 210 368-8600 63144 igourmet Tel: +314 968 7744 Chelsea Market Baskets www.igourmet.com www.chelsemarketbaskets.com Tel: +1 877 446 8763 Zingerman’s Deli Tel: +1 888 727 7887 This mail order store ships throughout the us. www.zingermansdeli.com This is a mail order store that ships throughout 422 Detroit st. Ann Arbor, MI 48104 the us. La Fromagerie Tel: +1 734 663 3354 www.lafromagerieonline.com 344 1222 King street, Alexandria, VA 22314 Zupan’s Markets Tel: +1 703 879 2467 www.zupans.com The Cheese Works 3301 se Belmont, Portland, or www.thecheeseworks.com Murray’s Cheese Shop Tel: +1 503 239 3720 Tel: +1 800 962 1220 www.murrayscheese.com This is a mail order store only for those in the cANADA california area. 254 Bleecker st. New York, NY 10014 Denninger’s Foods of the World Tel: +1 212 243.3289 www.denningers.com Cowgirl Creamery www.cowgirlcreamery.com 43rd st. & Lexington, New York, NY 10017 699 Guelph Line Burlington, oN Tel: +1 212 922.1540 Tel: +1 905-639-0510 Ferry Plaza, 1 Ferry Building, #17, san Francisco, cA 94111 Taste 284 King street east Hamilton, oN Tel: +1 415 362 9354 www.tastecheese.com Tel: +1 905-528-8468 1243 1/2 university Ave, san Diego, cA 92103 Tel: +1 619 683 2306

Jackson square Mall, 2 King street West, Harrods Fromagerie Barthélémy (Sté) Hamilton, oN www.harrods.com Ad51, rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris. Tel: +1 905-525-9641 87-135 Brompton road, sW1X 7XL Tel: +33 (0) 1 42 22 82 24 Tel: +44 (0) 20 7730 1234 2410 Lakeshore road oakville, oN Quatrehomme Tel: +1 905-827-3717 KäseSwiss 62 rue sèvres, 75007 Paris www.kaseswiss.co.uk Tel: +33 (0) 1 47 34 33 45 Fromagerie Hamel At Borough Market, 8 southwark street se1 1TL sPAIN www.fromageriehamel.com Mortimer and Bennet Poncelet 220 rue Jean-Talon est, Montréal, Qc www.mortimerandbennett.co.uk www.poncelet.es Tel: +1 514 272 1161 33 Turnham Green Terrace, London W4 1rG calle Argensola, 27, 28004-Madrid Tel: +44 (0) 20 8995 4145 Tel: +34 (0) 91 308 02 21 Gourmet Laurier 1042 rue Laurier ouest, Montréal, Qc H2V 2K8 Mr. Christian’s BeLGIuM resources Tel: +1 514 274 5601 www.mrchristians.co.uk Kaasaffineurs Michel Van Tricht & zoon 11 elgin crescent, Notting Hill, London W11 2JA www.kaasmeestervantricht.be Les Amis du Fromage Tel: +44 (0) 20 7229 0501 Fruit Hoflaan 13-15, 2600 Berchem www.buycheese.com Tel: +32 (0) 3440 7212 Neal’s Yard Dairy 843 east Hastings street, Vancouver, Bc V6A 1r8 www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk THe NeTHerLANDs Tel: +1 604-253-4218 17 shorts Gardens, London Wc2H 9AT De Kaaskammer Tel: +44 (0)20 7240 5700 runstraat 7, Jordaan, 1016, Amsterdam #518 Park royal south, Vancouver, Bc V7T 2W4 Tel: +31 (0) 20 623 3483 Tel: +1 604-925-4218 Rick Stein’s Delicatessen www.rickstein.com IsrAeL 1752 West 2nd Avenue, Vancouver, Bc V6J 1H6 south Quay, Padstow, cornwall PL28 8BY Ran Buck’s Cheese Cellar Tel: +1 604 732 4218 Tel: +44 (0)1841 533486 www. gvina.co.il 81 sokolov st. ramat Hasharon Yannick Fromagerie Rippon Cheese Stores Tel: +972 3 547 2332 www.yannickfromagerie.ca www.ripponcheese.com 11690 rue du salaberry (Marché de l’ouest), 26 upper Tachbrook street, sW1V 1sW Dollard-des-ormeaux H9B 2r8 Tel: +44 (0) 20 7931 0628/0668 Tel: +1 514 421 9944 Scandinavian Kitchen JAPAN 345 uK www.scandikitchen.co.uk Fermier Barrington’s Delicatessen 61 Great Titchfield street, W1W 7PP www.shopping.fermier.fm www.barringtonsdeli.co.uk Tel: +44 (0) 20 7580 7161 1 F Atago As Building, 1-5-3, Atago, Minato-ku, 60 High street, Bishops Waltham, Hampshire Tokyo 105 0002 so32 1AB Wensleydale Cheese Shop Tel: +44 (0) 14 8989 6600 www.wensleydale.co.uk AusTrALIA Wensleydale creamery, Gayles Lane, Hawes, North Rosalie Gourmet Market The Borough Cheese Company Yorkshire www.rosaliegourmet.com.au www.boroughcheesecompany.com Tel: +44 (0) 19 6966 7664 rosalie Village, Paddington, Brisbane At Borough Market, 8 southwark street se1 1TL Tel: +61 (0) 7 3876 6222 ITALY The Cheeseboard, Casa del Parmigiano NeW ZeALAND 1 commercial street, Harrogate, North Yorkshire www.famigliagastaldello.it Canterbury Cheesemongers Tel: +44 (0) 14 2350 8837 Piazza castello, 25, 36063 Marosica, Vicenza www.cheesemongers.co.nz Tel: +39 (0) 424 75071 44 salisbury st, christchurch, New Zealand. The Cheeseworks Tel: +64 (0) 3 379 0075 www.thecheeseworks.co.uk FrANce 5 regent street, cheltenham, Gloucestershire Androuët Tel: +44 (0) 12 4225 5022 www.androuët.com 134, rue Mouffetard - 75005 Paris The Cotswold Delicatessen Tel: +33 (0) 1 45 87 85 05 www.cotswolddelicatessen.co.uk 2 Middle row, chipping Norton oX7 5NH Fauchon oxfordshire www.fauchon.com Tel: +44 (0) 16 0864 2843 24-26 Place de la Madeleine, Paris Tel: +33 (0) 1 70 39 38 00

Index Bastardo del Grapa 105 Brie & Brie-style Little Ryding 185 Bastelicaccia 100 Awe Brie 272 St. Eadburgha 194 A Bath Soft Cheese 172 Baby Blue 312 Tunworth 202 Bath, Wyfe of 206 Bath Soft Cheese 172 Waimata Camembert 341 A Casinca 32 Bauernkäse (Lagundo) 143 Bla Castello 247 Camerano DOP 151 A Filetta 32 Bauma Carrat 149 Brie de Meaux AOC 14, 15, 46–7 Campscott 175 Abbaye de Cîteaux 30 Bavaria Blu (Bavarian Blue) 21, 236 Brie de Melun AOC 15, 42 Canaan Labane 336 Abbaye du Mont des Cats 30 Bayerische Bierkäse (Weisslacker) Brie de Nangis 42 Canada 268, 312–19 Abbaye Notre-Dame de Belloc 30 Clava Brie 208 Cañarejal 151 Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire 31 237 Coulommiers 53 Canestrato Foggiano (Pecorino Dauno) Abbaye de Tamié 31 Bayley Hazen Blue 273 Evansdale Farmhouse Brie 336 125 Abbaye de Troisvaux 100 Beato de Tábara 149 Fougerus 60 Canestrato Moliterno 106, 112 Abondance AOC 31 Beaufort AOC 18, 19, 38–9 Hartwell 288 Canestrato di Pecora 143 Ädelost 250 Beaufort d’Alpage 38 Le Petit Chèvre Bleu 295 Canestrato Pugliese PDO 112 Affidélis (Plaisir au Chablis) 77 Beaufort d’Hiver 38 Pont Gar 215 Canestrato di Vacca 143 affineurs 7 Beechers Flagship Reserve 306 St. Endellion 195 Cantabria DOP 152 Afuega’l Pitu DOP 148 Beenleigh Blue 173 Sharpham 15, 195 Cantal AOC 45 Aged Fresh cheeses 8, 12–13, 24, 25 Beenoskee 220 Te Mata Irongate 340 Capri Lezeen 45 Aged Green Peppercorn Chèvre 270 Beira Baxta (Castelo Branco DOP) 167 Te Mata Pakipaki 340 Capricorn Goat 14, 15, 175 Agrì di Valtorta 142 Bel Paese 119 Caprino Fresco 112 Ahumado de Pría 148 Bela Badia 143 Brigid’s Abbey 277 Caprino Stagionato 113 Aisy Cendré 48 Belgium 226, 227–9 Brillat-Savarin 42 Carmela 307 Akkawi 264 Bella Italia 119 Brindamour (Fleur du Maquis) 59 Carnia 113 Allegretto 312 Bella Milano 119 Brindisi Fontina 307 Carré de l’Est 45 Allerdale 172 Belle Chèvre 273 Brique du Forez 43 Carré Saint Domnin 84 Allgäuer Bergkäse 235 Bellelay (Tête de Moine AOC) 244 Brocciu Casatella Trevigiana 113 Allgäuer Emmental 234, 235 Bellingham Blue 219 Casciotta d’Urbino PDO 115 Almkäse 104 Bellwether Farms Crescenza 273 Brocciu AOC 43 Caseus Helveticus (Sbrinz AOC) 241 Alpine Lakes Creamy Bleu 306 Benabarre 150 Brocciu Pasu 43 Cashel Blue 220, 221 Alsea Acre Fromage Blanc 270 Benasque 150 Petit Nuage 324 Casín DOP 152 L’Alt Urgell y La Cerdanya DOP 148 Bergkäse (Pusteria) 144 Brossauthym 43 Casolet 115, 134 Altenburger Ziegenkäse PDO 234, Bergues 35 Bruny Island C2 328 Castellano 152 235 Berkswell 25, 173 Bruny Island Lewis 328 Castelmagno PDO 115 Ami du Chambertin 32 Bernardo 143 Bryndza PGI 260 Castelo Branco DOP 167 Anari 261 Berrichon 35 Bubulus Bubalis Mozzarella di Bufala Cathare 48 Ancient Heritage Scio 306 Bethmale 35 277 Cave Aged Marisa 278 Andante Dairy Picolo 270 Bettelmatt 105 Buchette Pont d’Yeu 44 Caws Cenarth 215, 216 Angelot (Pont-l’Evêque AOC) 78 Beyaz Peynir 261 Buffalo Blue 175 Cayuse Mountain 307 Anthotyros DOC 256, 257 Big Island Feta 274 buffalo milk cheeses 6 Cebreiro 153 AOC 8 Big Woods Blue 274 Blissful Blue Buffalo 174 Cendré Lochois 41 INDEx Appalachian 271 Bio Bleu 227 Buffalo Blue 175 Cendré de Niort 48 Appel Farms Cheddar 271 Birdwood Blue Heaven 173 Pendragon 189 Le Cendré des Prés 314 Appenzeller 240 Bishop Kennedy 207 Ricotta di Bufala Campana (PDO Cendré de Vergy 48 Ardi-Gasna 33 Bitto DOC PDO 105 transitory list) 144 Cerney Pyramid 176 Ardrahan 219 Bla Castello 247 see also Caciocavallo; Mozzarella Cerwyn 213 Ardsallagh 219 Black-eyed Susan 174 Burrata 107, 145 Chabichou du Poitou AOC 49, 52, 92 Argentina 269, 321 Blacksticks Blue 174 Chalet d’Alpage 38 Arômes au Gêne de Marc 33 Blanca Bianca 274 C Chaource AOC 15, 49 Arzúa-Ulloa DOP 149 Bleu Age 307 Charolais Ascutney Mountain Cheese 271 Bleu d’Auvergne AOC 36 C2 (Bruny Island C2) 328 Charolais (France) 49 Ashed Tomette 272 Bleu Bénédictin 313 Le Cabanon 314 Charolais (USA) 278 Asiago PDO 104 Bleu des Causses AOC 36 Cabécou de Rocamadour Racotin 79 Asiago d’Allevo 104 Bleu de Chèvre 36 Cheddar & Cheddar-style 19, 47, Asiago Pressato 104 Bleu de Gex Haut-Jura AOC 37 (Rocamadour AOC) 80 180–1, 327 Australia 326–34 Bleu Mont Cheddar 275 Caboc 210–11, 212 Appel Farms Cheddar 271 Austria 234, 238–9 Bleu de Termignon 37 Cabot Clothbound 278 Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar 312 Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar 312 Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage AOC 37 Cabra Rufino 151 Barely Buzzed 272 346 Awe Brie 272 Blissful Blue Buffalo 174 Cabra Transmontano DOP 167 Barry’s Bay Cheddar 335 Blue Castello (Bla Castello) 247 Cabrales DOP 150, 153 Beechers Flagship Reserve 306 Ayr (Vermont Ayr) 304 Blue cheeses 8, 20–1, 25, 302 Cabri Ariégeois 44 Bleu Mont Cheddar 275 Azeitão DOP 167 Blue Monday 207, 212 Cacio Reale 119 Cabot Clothbound 278 Blue Moon (Gorau Glas) 214 Caciocavallo 108 Cantal AOC 45 B Blue Pearl (Perl Las) 215 Daylesford Cheddar 177, 197 Blue River Curio Bay Pecorino 335 Caciocavallo Occhiato 108 5 Spoke Creamery Browning Gold Baby Blue 312 Blue River Tussock Creek Sheep Feta Caciocavallo Podolico 108 306 Baby Muenster (Oltermanni) 253 Caciocavallo Silano PDO 109 Hafod 214 Bad Ax 306 335 Kachokabaro 323 Lincolnshire Poacher 185 Bagòss 104 Blue Vinney, Dorset 178 Cacioricotta 143 Mount Callan 225 Baguette Laonnaise 33 Blythedale Farm Camembert 275 Caciotta 109 Pendragon 189 Banon Bonde de Gâtine 40 Caciotta di Pecora (Toscanello) 145 Quickes Hard Goat 190 Boulette d’Avesnes 40, 100 Caerphilly & Caerphilly-style 171, R&R Cheddar 297 Banon AOC 34 Boulette de Cambrai 40 204, 215, 216–17 Seven-Year-Old Orange Cheddar Banon aux Baies Roses 34 Boulette de Papleux 100 Caws Cenarth 215, 216 319 Banon à la Sarriette 34 Bouquetin de Portneuf 313 Dragons Back 213 Cheddar Curds 314 Hoja Santa 288 Bourrée 275 Lavistown 223, 224 Cheeseboard selections 24–5 Barely Buzzed 272 Bouton-de-Culotte 41 Cairnsmore Ewes 207 Cheesemaking, Barkham Blue 172 Bouyguette des Collines 41 Calcagno 109 history & techniques 6–7 Barossa Valley Washington Washrind Bra DOC PDO 107 Camembert & Camembert-style 322 see also specific cheeses (eg 334 Bra Duro 107 Bavaria Blu (Bavarian Blue) 21, 236 Gouda); specific types (eg Soft La Barre du Jour 313 Bra Tenero 107 Blythedale Farm Camembert 275 White cheeses) Barry’s Bay Cheddar 335 Braculina (Paglierine) 124 Camembert de Normandie AOC 6, Cheshire 176 Branzi 107 14, 15, 25, 44, 46 Chevrotin des Aravis AOC 51 Brazil 269, 321 Le Cendré des Prés 314 Chevrotin des Bauges AOC 51 Brebis du Lochois 41 Comfort Cream 315 Bridgewater Round 277 Cooleeney 221 Farleigh Wallop 182

Chimay Dôme de Vézelay 55 5 Spoke Creamery Browning Gold 306 Northumberland 187 Chimay à la Bière 227, 229 Dorset 281 Flavor-added cheeses 8, 22–3, 24, 25 Oakdale Cheese Company Gouda Vieux Chimay 229 Dorset Blue Vinney 178 Fleur-de-Lis 282 293 Double Gloucester 178 Fleur du Maquis 59 Old Grizzly 317 Chorherrenkäse 238 Ribblesdale Original Goat 191 Christian IX (Danbo) 247 see also Snodsbury Goat see also Piacere São Jorge DOP 169 Ch’ti Roux 51 Dragons Back 213 Fleur de la Terre 282 Steamboat Island Goat Farm Cîteaux (Abbaye de Cîteaux) 30 Dragon’s Breath Blue 316 Flor de Guîa 153 Gouda 311 City of Ships 279 Dry Jack 18, 286, 287 Flower Marie 182 Teifi Farmhouse 218 Clacbitou 49 Duddleswell 179 Fog Lights 283 Tilsiterkäse 237 Dunlop 209 Fontal 117 Winchester Super Aged Gouda 305 Mini Clac 41 Durrus 222 Fontina Gour Blanc 62 Claire de Lune 307 Gour Noir 62 Clava Brie 208 E Brindisi Fontina 307 Grace 223 Clemson Blue 279 Fontina PDO 117 Graciosa (Ilha Graciosa) 168 Clochette 12, 13, 52 Edam & Edam-style 17, 22, 230, 232 Forest Blue (Fowlers Forest Blue) 183 Grana 130 Coeur de Neufchâtel AOC 52 Mahoe Vintage Edam 337 Formaggella del Luinese 117 Grana Padano PDO 19, 119, 138 Coeur de Rollot 80 Mimolette 19, 68 Formaggio di Fossa 118 Grand Queso 284 Coeur de Touraine 52 Tulare Cannonball 303 Formaggio Primo Sale 126, 129 Gratte-Paille 62 Colonel (Livarot AOC) 66 Formaggio Ubriaco 118 Gravenstein Gold 284 ColoRouge, MouCo 292 Eden 281 Formai de Mut dell’Alta Val Graviera DOC 256 Comfort Cream 315 Edith (Woodside Edith) 334 Brembana PDO 118 Grayson 285 Comté AOC 56–7 Eiffel Tower (Pouligny-Saint-Pierre Forme d’Antoine 60 Great Hill Blue 285 Constant Bliss 279 Fort de Béthune 101 Greece 254–9 Coolea 220 AOC) 78 Fouchtra 60 Grevéost 251 Cooleeney 221 Ekta Gjetost 249 Fougerus 60 Gruyère & Gruyère-style Corleggy 221 Elk Mountain Tomme 308 Fourme d’Ambert AOC 61 Bettelmatt 105 Cornish Blue 176 Embruns aux Algues 58 Fourme de Laguiole (Laguiole AOC) 63 Graviera DOC 256 Cotherstone 177 Emmental & Emmental-style 322 Fourme de Montbrison AOC 61 Gruyère AOC 19, 240, 243 Cottage Cheese 11 Fowlers Forest Blue 183 Gruyère Surchoix 285 Coulommiers 53 Allgäuer Bergkäse 235 France 26–101 Heidi Farm Gruyère 330 Coupole 280, 310 Allgäuer Emmental 234, 235 Les Frères 283 Herrgärdsost 251 Crabotin 100 Danbo 247 Fresh cheeses 8, 10–11, 25 Pleasant Ridge Reserve 295 Cranberry Ridge Farm Chèvre 280 Emmental de Savoie 58 Frisian Farms Mature Gouda 283 Gubbeen 223 Crayeux de Roncq 53 Emmental 19, 242–3 Fromage Blanc (Richard Thomas Guernsey Cream 323 Creamery Subblime 307 Fontal 117 Fromage Blanc) 332 Gunnamatta Gold 329 Crémet du Cap Blanc-Nez 100 Grevéost 251 fromage fort, Pot Corse 78 Gympie Farmhouse Chèvre 329 Crémeux du Puy 53 Jarlsberg 249 Fromage Frais 11 Crescent Dairy Farmhouse 336 Maasdam 231 Fromage du Pays Nantais dit du H INDEX Crescenza 116 Samsø 248 Curé (Curé Nantais) 54, 58 England 171, 172–206 Fruité du Boulonnais 61 Hafod 214 347 Bellwether Farms Crescenza 273 Epoisses & Epoisses-style Halloumi 10, 11, 262–3 Crottin 219, 225 Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire 31 G Epoisses Affinée 64 Zany Zeus Halloumi 341 Bouquetin de Portneuf 313 Epoisses de Bourgogne AOC 48, Gabriel 222 Handkäse 236 Crottin de Chavignol AOC 13, 35, 64–5 Galotiri DOC 257 Hard cheeses 8, 18–19, 25 54, 92 Epoisses Frais 64 Gammelost 249 Hartwell 288 Pine Stump Crottin 309 Langres AOC 16, 17, 63, 86 Gamonedo DOP 153 Harvest Moon 316 Crowdie 208, 210 Palet de Bourgogne 71 Gamonedo del Valle 153 Harzer Käse 236 Crozier Blue 221 Plaisir au Chablis 77 Gaperon 62 Havarti & Havarti-style Le Cru des Érables 315 Soumaintrain 88 Garrotxa 156 Cuillin Goats 208 Erzincan 261 Geitenkaas Met Kruiden 230 Havarti (Havarthi) 17, 248 curds Esrom PGI 248 Germany 234–7 Oltermanni 253 Cheddar Curds 314 Evansdale Farmhouse Brie 336 Géromé (Munster AOC) 70 Turunmaa 253 Meadowcroft Farm Goat’s Curd Everona Piedmont 281 Gippsland Blue 328 Healey’s Pyengana 329 338 Évora DOP 168 Gjetost 249 Heidi Farm Gruyère 330 Peli Pabo 213 Ewe’s Blue 282 Glebe Brethan 222 Heidi Farm Raclette 330 Schichtkäse 237 Exmoor Blue PGI 179 Gloucester Hereford Hop 22, 183 Te Mata Summerlee 340 Extra Mature Smoked Gubbeen 223 Herreño 156 Curé Nantais 54, 58 Double Gloucester 178 Herrgärdsost 251 Curio Bay Pecorino (Blue River Curio F Single Gloucester PDO 197 Hervé 227 Bay Pecorino) 335 see also Snodsbury Goat Hobelkäse 240 Curworthy 177 Fairlight 179 Goatzarella 284 Hocpustertaler (Pusteria) 144 Cyprus 255, 261–3 Farleigh Wallop 182 Golden Cross 183 Hoja Santa 288 Ferns Edge Goat Dairy Chèvre 308 Golden Glen Creamery Mozzarella Holland 226, 230–3 D Feta & Feta-style 308 Holy Goat La Luna 330 Goldilocks 174 Holy Goat Pandora 331 Danablu 247 Beyaz Peynir 261 Gorau Glas 214 Hooligan 288 Danbo 247 Big Island Feta 274 Gorgonzola & Gorgonzola-style Hubbardston Blue 289 Danish Blue (Danablu) 247 Blue River Tussock Creek Sheep Bavaria Blu (Bavarian Blue) 21, Hungary 254, 255, 260 Danish Port Salut see Esrom PGI Feta 335 236 Hushällsost 251 Dauphin 54 Bryndza PGI 260 Cornish Blue 176 Daylesford Cheddar 177, 197 Feta PDO 11, 257, 258–9 Gippsland Blue 328 I Daylesford Creamery Penyston 189 Ffetys 213 Gorgonzola DOP 20, 21, 110–11, 138 Deauville 55 Te Mata Mt. Erin 340 Gouda & Gouda-style 19, 22, 230, Ibérico 156 Le Délice des Appalaches 315 Weisslacker 237 232–3 Ibores DOP 157 Délice des Cabasses 55 Yarra Valley Dairy Persian Fetta Coolea 220 Icklesham 179 Délice de la Vallée 280 334 Frisian Farms Mature Gouda 283 Idiazábal DO 23, 157 Denmark 246, 247–8 Feuille de Dreux 58 Ilha Graciosa 168 Ilha Graciosa 168 Denomination & Designation of Ffetys 213 Kanterkaas 231 Inbar 264 Figuette 59 Leidse Kaas 231 Innes Button 25, 184 Origin 8 Finland 246, 253 Mahoe Vintage Gouda 337 Iona Cromag 209 Derby 194 Finlandia Cheese (Oltermanni) 253 Meyer Vintage Gouda 338 Ireland 170, 219–25 Desmond 222 Finn 182 Mossfield Organic 224 Dobbiaco 116 Fiore Sardo PDO 116 Nagelkaas 23, 231 DOC 8 Fium’Orbu 59 Doddington 178

Irongate (Te Mata Irongate) 340 Livarot AOC 66 Mount Callan 225 Fairlight 179 Ironstone Extra 331 see also Deauville Mt. Eliza Red Leicester 339 Fleur de la Terre 282 Isis (Oxford Isis) 188 Mt. Erin (Te Mata Mt. Erin) 340 Grace 223 Isle of Wight Blue 184 Lord of the Hundreds 186 Mt. Hector Kapiti 339 Gunnamatta Gold 329 Israel 255, 264–5 Los Montes de Toledo 158 Mt. Tam 276, 292 Holy Goat La Luna 330 Italico 119 Losange de Saint-Paul 100 Mountain Top Bleu 292 Holy Goat Pandora 331 Italy 102–45 Lou Rocaillou 66 Mozzarella & Mozzarella-style 10, 11, Keiems Bloempje 228 Lou Sotch 67 274, 283, 288 Little Ryding 185 J Lubelski 255 Menuet 290 Lucullus 67 Bubulus Bubalis Mozzarella di Mossfield Organic 224 Jack see Monterey Jack Bufala 277 Mt. Tam 292 Jacks’ Cheese 286 M Burrata 107, 145 Pas de Rouge 228 Japan 322–5 Goatzarella 284 Pavé de la Ginestarie 72 Jarlsberg 249 Maasdam 231 Golden Glen Creamery Mozzarella Penyston 189 Jensen’s Red Washed Rind 331 Mercer 338 308 St. Tola Log 225 Jersey Shield 187 Lubelski 255 Sussex Slipcote 198 Juustoleipä 253 Mâconnaise AOC 67 Mozzarella di Bufala 120–1, 144 Tarentaise 300 Bouton-de-Culotte 41 Mozzarella Passita (Scamorza) 137 Vaquero Blue 304 K Shaw River Buffalo Mozzarella Original Blue (Point Reyes Original Mahoe Vintage Edam 337 333 Blue) 309 Kachokabaro 323 Mahoe Vintage Gouda 337 Mt. see Mount Original Goat (Ribblesdale Original Kanterkaas 231 Mahón DO 154–5 Munster Goat) 191 Kapiti (Mt. Hector Kapiti) 339 Mainzer 236 Munster AOC 70, 101 Orkney 212 Karikaas Vintage Leyden 337 Maiorchino (Piacentinu Ennese) 128 St. Severin 238 Ossau-Iraty AOC 70 Kaseri DOC 256 Majorero DOP 158 Murazzano PDO 123 see also Tomme de Brebis Corse Kashkaval 260 Manchego Murcia al Vino DOP 159 Ossolano 124 Kebbuck 209 Mutschli 241 Oštiepok PGI 260 Kefalotyri DOC 257 Grand Queso 284 Pleasant Valley Dairy Mutschli 309 Oszcypek 260 Keiems Bloempje 228 Manchego DOC 18, 19, 162–3 Mysost 249 Ouray 308 Keltic Gold 184 Manouri 257 Myzithra 257 Oxford Blue 188 Kernhem 230 Marisa (Cave Aged Marisa) 278 Oxford Isis 188 Ketem 13, 264 Maroilles & Maroilles-style N King Christian (Danbo) 247 Baguette Laonnaise 33 P King Island Roaring Forties 332 Boulette de Papleux 100 Nagelkaas (Nail cheese) 23, 231 King Island Stormy 333 Dauphin 54 Natural smoked cheeses see Smoked Paglierine 124 Knockdrinna Gold 223 Fort de Béthune 101 cheeses Paglietta (Paglierine) 124 Kunik 289 Maroilles AOC 6, 68 Neal’s Yard Creamery Finn 182 Le Paillasson de l’isle d’Orlèans 317 Rollot 80 Neal’s Yard Creamery Perroche 189 Pakipaki (Te Mata Pakipaki) 340 INDEx L Vieux-Lille 99 Neal’s Yard Creamery Ragstone 191 Palermo DOP 159 Marzolino 122 The Netherlands 226, 230–3 Palet de Bourgogne 71 La Aulaga Camerano DOP 151 Mascare 101 Neudorf Richmond Red 339 Pandora (Holy Goat Pandora) 331 La Barre du Jour 313 Mascarpone 11, 122, 283 Neufchâtel 52 Pannarello 124 La Luna (Holy Goat La Luna) 330 Matos St. George 290 New Forest Blue 186 Pannerone 125 La Peral 161 Maytag Blue 290 New Zealand 327, 335–41 Pant-Ys-Gawn 214 la Pierre-qui-Vire (Abbaye de la Meadowcroft Farm Goat’s Curd 338 Nîmois 101 Parmigiano-Reggiano (Parmesan) & Pierre-qui-Vire) 31 Menuet 290 Nisa DOP 168 Parmigiano-Reggiano-style La Sauvagine 318 Mercer Maasdam 338 Nökkelost 250 Labane 265 Meredith Blue 332 Norsworthy 187, 190 Dry Jack 18, 286, 287 Canaan Labane 336 Mesost 252 Northumberland 187 Mahón DO 154–5 Laguiole AOC 63 Mexico 269, 320 Norway 246, 249–50 Parmigiano-Reggiano DOC 6, 18, Lagundo 143 Meyer Vintage Gouda 338 Notre-Dame de Belloc (Abbaye 19, 130–1 L’Alt Urgell y La Cerdanya DOP 148 Mezzo Secco 286, 287, 291 Notre-Dame de Belloc) 30 Sbrinz AOC 241 Lanark Blue 212 Midcoast Teleme 308 Nut Knowle Farm Wealden 203 Pas de Rouge 228 Lancashire 185 Milleens 170, 224 Nut Knowle Farm Wealdway 204 Pasiego de las Garmillas 159 Langres AOC 16, 17, 63, 86 Mimolette 19, 68 Passendale 228 Larzac 289 Mini Clac 41 O pasta filata cheeses Latteria 119 Mona 291 Kashkaval 260 348 Lavistown 223, 224 Monastery-style see Trappist-style Oakdale Cheese Company Gouda 293 Ragusano PDO 133 Mondseer 238 O’Cooch 293 Stracciata 145 Lavort 63 Monet 291 Ogleshield 187 Vastedda della Valle del Belice 145 Le Cabanon 314 Mont des Cats (Abbaye du Mont des Oka Classique 316 see also Caciocavallo; Mozzarella; Le Cendré des Prés 314 Cats) 30 Old Grizzly 317 Provolone Le Cru des Érables 315 Mont d’Or & Mont d’Or-style Old Kentucky Tome 293 Pata de Mulo 160 Le Délice des Appalaches 315 Cabri Ariégeois 44 Old Sarum 188 Monte Enebro 158 Le Paillasson de l’isle d’Orléans 317 Mont d’Or AOC 68 Old Smales (Old Winchester) 188 Pavé d’Auge 71 Le Petit Chèvre Bleu 295 Pechegos 73 Old Winchester 188 Pavé Blésois 71 Le Sabot de Blanchette 318 Mont Ventoux 101 Olivet 70 Pavé de la Ginestarie 72 Lebanon 255, 264 Montasio Olivet Cendré 70 Pavé de Moyaux 71 Leicester see Red Leicester Montasio PDO 122 Olivet au Foin 70 Pavé du Nord 72 Leidse Kaas 231 Samish Bay Cheese Montasio 309 Olivet Poivre 70 Pavé du Plessis 71 Nökkelost 250 Monte Enebro 158 Olmützer Quargel 236 Pavé de Roubaix (Pavé du Nord) 72 Les Frères 283 Monte Veronese PDO 123 Oltermanni 253 Pavin 72 Lewis (Bruny Island Lewis) 328 Monterey Jack 286–7 organic cheeses Payoyo 160 Leyden (Karikaas Vintage Leyden) 337 Dry Jack 18, 286, 287 PDO 8 Liébana DOP 157 Mezzo Secco 286, 287, 291 Baby Blue 312 Peasmarsh 179 Limburger 236 Young Jack 286, 287 Bath Soft Cheese 172 Pecan Chèvre 295 Hervé 227 Los Montes de Toledo 158 Birdwood Blue Heaven 173 Pechegos 73 Lincolnshire Poacher 185 Morbier AOC 69 Bleu Mont Cheddar 275 Pecorino 18 Lingot de la Ginestarie 66 see also La Barre du Jour Campscott 175 Blue River Curio Bay Pecorino 335 Little Ryding 185 Mori No Cheese 323 Le Cendré des Prés 314 Pecorino Crotonese 125 Little Wallop 186 Morlacco 123 Claire de Lune 307 Pecorino Dauno 125 Morn Dew 190 Creamery Sublime 307 Pecorino delle Crete Senesi Morvan 69 Daylesford Cheddar 177, 197 (Pecorino di Pienza) 127 Mossfield Organic 224 Mothais-sur-Feuille 69 MouCo ColoRouge 292