The World Cheese Book

norway Gammelost Gjetost Jarlsberg Gammelost means “old cheese,” a name Made in the Gudbrandsdalen Valley First produced in the 1860s in N o r way given because it grows a green-brown using milk, cream, and whey, Gjetost jarlsberg and Vestfold county, it was mold traditionally achieved by has the color of French mustard and revived in the mid-1900s. Made from wrapping the cheese in straw soaked in the texture of fudge. It was once made the rich milk produced from cows gin and juniper berries. It is made with using only goat’s milk—gjet means grazing in high summer pastures, it very low-fat skim milk, mainly in sogn “goat” in Norwegian. To differentiate has large round holes and a lemony- og Fjordane, and hardanger. the styles today, that made with pure yellow color. TasTING NoTes sharp and aromatic with cow’s milk is called mysost, while ekta TasTING NoTes It was inspired by swiss a brittle, granular texture and a gjetost is made with pure goat’s milk. emmental, but jarlsberg is softer, more pungent tang reminiscent of aged TasTING NoTes This is not to everyone’s supple, sweeter, and less nutty, with a Camembert or Danish Blue. Its taste, but Norwegians love its sweet fermenting fruit tang to the finish. brownish yellow interior is flecked with caramel and peanut butter flavors as how To eNjoy Try sliced in salads or erratic, uneven streaks of blue. well as its unique aromatic, goaty taste. as a party snack. This versatile how To eNjoy an after-dinner favorite, how To eNjoy Gjetost is traditionally cheese is also great in sandwiches robust enough to be enjoyed with strong eaten thinly shaved on flatbread, or with smoked ham, melted on toast, digestives such as schnapps or grappa. with spiced fruit cake at Christmas. or served with crudités. NORWAY Vestlandet NORWAY Østlandet NORWAY All over 249 Age 4–5 weeks Age From a few days Age 1–15 months Weight and Shape 6½lb (3kg), drum Weight and Shape 9oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), wheel or Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 8in (20cm) (250–500g), block block Milk Goat Size Various, L. 6in (15cm), W. 2½in (6cm), Size: Various Classification Hard H. 1½in (4cm) (pictured) Milk Cow Producer Various Milk Goat or cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Producer Tine Producer Various

s C a N D i N av i aNökkelost Ridder Ädelost swedenMade with partially skimmed milkRidder is a semi-soft cheese that isÄdelost, or “noble cheese,” is sweden’s and generously scattered with finely washed in brine mixed with annatto, only original blue and was created as chopped cumin seeds and cloves, this which gives it a sticky, orange rind. an alternative to the imported French semi-soft cheese is based on Dutch Named after the Norwegian word for blues. it is characterized by blue-gray Leidsekaas. Made in Norway since the “knight,” it was invented in 1969 by the pockets and short broken veins that are 17th century, it is named after the swedish cheesemaker sven Fenelius, scattered through its pale, creamy crossed keys (nökkel) that are the and it is now available worldwide. interior. the thin, pale rind is dusted emblem of the Dutch city of Leiden, with gray, white, and blue molds. and only two small dairies are still tastiNg Notes sweet, buttery yet sharp, producing it. and slightly nutty, with a dense, tastiNg Notes Ädelost’s high-moisture pliable, pale yellow interior. as it ages, texture emphasizes the sharp, spicy, tastiNg Notes springy yet firm, it has Ridder becomes more pungent. blue bite and salty tang of the cheese. a creamy feel and a warm spicy flavor that hints of Christmas. how to eNjoy an excellent dessert how to eNjoy Crumble over salads or cheese when young, especially when it mix with extra virgin olive oil and how to eNjoy Nökkelost adds a warm is served with fresh summer berries. balsamic vinegar to make a piquant spiciness to tarts and baked vegetables, it tastes more mellow when it is grilled salad dressing. serve with a hoppy beer or serve simply with fresh apples and or baked. or local schnapps. pears, pumpernickel, and beer. NORWAY Vestlandet (Western Norway) SWEDEN All over 250 NORWAY All over Age 12–15 weeks Age 8–12 weeks Age 12 weeks Weight and Shape 7lb (3.25kg); wheel Weight and Shape 5½lb (2.5kg), drum Weight and Shape Various Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 2–3in (5–7cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size Various Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft Producer Tine Producer Various Producer Tine

Grevéost Herrgärdsost Hushällsost Commercially produced and based on Created in the early 20th century as a Hushällsost means “household cheese” Sweden emmental (see pp242–23), Grevéost local alternative to Gruyère (see p240), in Swedish, and as such and with more has a pale yellow, dense interior with Herrgärdsost gets its name from the than 700 years of history behind it, holes of irregular size and shape. Swedish for “manor house.” Although it is one of the country’s best-known Produced in large wheels, and a “lite” based on Gruyère, it is softer and more and most well-used cheeses. Unlike variety, this cheese plays a daily role in supple, with smaller round holes. many Swedish cheeses, it is made Swedish cooking because its mild, sweet tAStinG noteS the pale yellow interior unashamedly with full-fat milk. flavor appeals to young and old alike. has a thin rind that is most often tAStinG noteS Mild and creamy, with tAStinG noteS Sweet and nutty, it is firm waxed. nutty and with a similar a straw-colored interior, Hushällsost to the bite, with a dense and pliable taste to mild Cheddar, its zingy tang has a lemon-fresh finish, an open texture, but it lacks emmental’s depth. intensifies with age. texture with small irregular holes, and a barely formed rind. How to enjoy Spread brioche with How to enjoy Like Gruyère, this is an How to enjoy Popular as part of the butter and fill with thin slices of the excellent eating and cooking cheese. traditional breakfast buffet, it is also cheese and smoked ham. Also works try it with pickled gherkins, to great for sandwiches, pizzas, tarts, and well as a snack, melted, or grated into accentuate its tangy character, and even melted on top of casseroles. béchamel-type sauces. match with a fruity white wine. SWEDEN All over SWEDEN All over SWEDEN All over 251 Age 40 weeks Age 4–24 months Age 4–12 weeks Weight and Shape 33lb (15kg), wheel Weight and Shape 33lb–39lb 11oz Weight and Shape 6½lb (3kg), drum Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 4–5½in (10–14cm) (12–18kg), round Size D. 8–10in (20–25cm), H. 2–3in Milk Cow Size Various, D. 15½in (40cm), H. 5in (5–8cm) Classification Semi-soft (12cm) (pictured) Milk Cow Producer Various Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various

Mesost Prästost Västerbottenost S C a n d i n aV i a This whey cheese came about from the Prästost or “priest cheese,” dates from Swedish cuisine is all about converting need of the Scandinavian producers to the 16th century when farmers paid a the bounty of the brief summer harvest use every element of their milk. The tithe to the local church in the form of into food that will last through the whey is cooked so that the proteins and goods, including milk. once paid, the long, harsh winter. as a result, hard fats separate and the remaining liquid farmer’s wife converted the balance cheeses were made in homes and small evaporates, leaving behind a sticky of the milk into cheese and sold it at dairies across Sweden. Västerbottenost, brown caramelized mass of sugars. the local market to recoup some costs. a mass-produced cheese invented in the Sometimes cream or milk is added to Today it is factory-made. mid-19th century, is modeled on these increase the yield. TaSTing noTeS Supple with rice-sized traditional cheeses. TaSTing noTeS an acquired taste to those holes and a squishy texture, it is TaSTing noTeS it is hard and granular not brought up with it, the cheese is robust, sweet-sour, and leaves a sharp, like aged Cheddar, with small irregular sweet with a creamy, caramel fudge fruity tingle on the palate. holes and a fruity tang that becomes flavor and bitter aftertaste. How To enjoy Try it sprinkled on hearty more savory with age. How To enjoy it is usually served for soups, on chili con carne, or as an extra How To enjoy a great after-dinner breakfast with toast or bread, or dimension to a cheeseboard with a cheese, best served with beer, as a snack. fruity red. Schnapps, or red wine. 252 SWEDEN All over SWEDEN All over SWEDEN All over Age From a few days Age Up to 12 months Age Up to 12 months Weight and Shape 2lb 4oz–17lb 6oz Weight and Shape 26lb 5oz–33lb Weight and Shape 44lb (20kg), wheel (1kg–8kg), blocks (12kg–15kg), wheels Size D. 20in (50cm), H. 8in (20cm) Size Various Size Various, D. 4in (10cm), H. 1–3in Milk Cow Milk Cow, goat, or ewe (5–7cm) (pictured) Classification: Hard Classification Fresh Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Producer Various

finland Juustoleipä Oltermanni Turunmaa a unique cheese, juustoleipä, or an Havarti-style cheese made by Valio, This cheese was originally made as a finland “cheese bread” was once made in homes a large dairy owned by finnish dairy breakfast cheese in the grand manor using cow or reindeer milk. The curd farmers, who produce the cleanest milk houses of Turku, finland’s ancient was pressed into flat wooden platters in the eU due to their crystal clear capital in the 16th century. an Havarti- then “toasted” in front of an open water and freedom from industrial style cheese, it has a firm yet open fire, hence the name. Today it is pollution. outside finland it is texture, and a richness that comes from commercially made with cow’s milk. sometimes sold as Baby Muenster the excellent grazing in the area. TasTing noTes Beneath the lightly- or finlandia Cheese. TasTing noTes Chewy and creamy with toasted rind, the whitish-yellow TasTing noTes similar to Turunmaa, it tiny eyes and a rich, deep buttery taste. interior is floppy and squeaky on the has a barely formed rind and small, it has a savory tang liked grilled palate, with hints of coconut, pineapple, irregular holes. Cheddar on the finish, like a rather sweet milk, and eggs. How To enjoy like many scandinavian delicious but slightly rubbery omelet. How To enjoy Rarely found outside cheeses, it is served at breakfast, sliced How To enjoy like most scandinavian finland, where it is grilled and served on rye bread, or melted over toast. cheeses it is served at breakfast or with with fruit jam for breakfast, or dropped slices of smoked ham and cold meats. into a cup of coffee, but not consumed. FINLAND Finland and Lapland FINLAND All over FINLAND All over 253 Age From a few days Age 1–3 months Age 8–12 weeks Weight and Shape 28oz (800g), flattened Weight and Shape 2lb 4oz (1.1kg), Weight and Shape 13–22lb (6–10kg), round cylinder drum Size D. 51⁄2in (14cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm) Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm); H. 2–3in (5–7cm) Milk Cow or reindeer Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Valio Producer Valio

poland CzeCH Slovakia repuBliC produCed tHrougHout romania tHe Country Bryndza ★, Oštiepok ★ Hungary produCed tHrougHout tHe Country Kashkaval Slovenia Croatia BoSnia& Herzegovina SerBia Bulgaria montenegro Kaseri ★ maCedonia adriatic sea alBania Galotiri ★ aegean sea Kaseri ★ Kaseri ★ greeCe Galotiri ★ produCed tHrougHout tHe Country Anthotyros ★, Feta ★, Kefalotyri ★, Manouri, Myzithra ionian sea n 200 miles 200 km

black sea EASTERN EUROPE AND THE NEAR EAST GREECE In Greek mythology, Apollo’s son presented a gift of “everlasting value” to the Greeks: the secret of making cheese, which was the food of the gods. Records of Greek cheesemaking can be traced back as far as the 10th century bce, and today, Greeks eat more cheese per head than the French or Italians. The variety of mountain and maritime natural pastures plus the sun-kissed climate provide ideal conditions for the tenacious native goats and hardy sheep that provide the milk for some of the world’s oldest and greatest cheeses. EASTERN EUROPE Since 552 ce, Eastern Europe’s borders changed frequently and numerous forces occupied the region, which led to a melting pot of culinary influences, from Roman to Russian and Turkish to Central Asian. As a result, unique local cheeses are sold alongside Swiss and Danish Havarti-style cheeses made in Lithuania and Slovenia; a version of Mozzarella, called Lubelski, made in Poland; and numerous Feta-like cheeses. When post-war communism led to mass production, small producers all but died out, but since the Iron Curtain dropped, artisan cheesemakers have re-emerged. The Eastern European dairy industry is now thriving, with many small traditional creameries producing a variety of European and local cheeses. ISRAEL AND THE NEAR EAST Although archaeological sites dating from 7000 bce show signs that the domestication of the then-evolving sheep and goat population could have led to the development of the first cheeses for this region, the harsh climate prevented the creation of the sophisticated cheeses that were seen in Europe. In the 1980s, interest in cheese beyond just fresh and salted or dried styles started a new wave of artisan and industrial cheeses. European-trained cheesemakers were able to upgrade the quality and awareness of traditional cheeses and produce European-style cheeses. Tulum TuRkEy SyRIA PRoDuCED THRouGHouT THE CounTRy Beyaz Peynir Tulum CyPRuS LEbAnon PRoDuCED PRoDuCED THRouGHouT THRouGHouT THE CounTRy THE CounTRy Anari, Akkawi Halloumi Graviera ★ Key Turkeez kRíTI ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Graviera ★ Inbar Produced only here mediterranean sea Ketem ISRAEL Produced throughout the region PRoDuCED THRouGHouT THE CounTRy Labane, Zfatit

greece Anthotyros DOC Graviera DOC Kaseri DOC eastern europe and the near east this has been made for centuries this is one of the most popular Greek one of the oldest cheeses in the world, using the whey of ewe and goat’s milk, cheeses. It is based on Gruyère but can Kaseri is produced using a mix of goat’s or a mix of both, with the addition of be made with cow, goat, or ewe’s milk, and ewe’s milk (minimum 80 per cent small quantities of milk and cream. depending on the season. Graviera from ewe’s). It is an aged pasta filata or It is widely available throughout Krìti (Crete) is made using ewe’s milk stretched curd cheese, similar to Italian Greece as a soft or a hard cheese. and some goat, while Graviera naxos is provolone, which gives it a stringy tastInG notes when fresh it is creamy made with cow’s milk with a little ewe texture when cooked. and lemony with a unique floral taste; or goat. tastInG notes Firm but supple with no when aged it develops gray molds and tastInG notes the Cretan Graviera is rind, it becomes elastic when cooked. is dry with a stronger, salty tang and sweet and fruity like emmental, with Quite salty, yet slightly sweet and a hint of smoke on the finish. a delicate fragrance and burnt caramel pungent with a dry feel in the mouth. how to enjoy traditionally used in finish. the naxos version is richer, how to enjoy a table cheese that is savory or sweet pastries, and when creamier and more nutty. great for melting. try on top of pita aged it is grated over hot savory dishes. how to enjoy a classic all-around table bread and smothered in fresh vine- It is especially tasty when paired with cheese which can also be baked in tomato pulp and olives for your own fresh figs. cheese pastries. Greek-style pizza. 256 GREECE All over GREECE Naxos and Krìti GREECE Thessalia, Mitilini island, and Xanthi Age A couple of days up to 12 months Age 3–5 months Age 12 weeks Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), ball or Weight and Shape 41⁄2–171⁄2lb (2–8kg), Weight and Shape 2–20lb (1–9kg), wheel truncated cone drum Size Various Size Various Size Various Milk Ewe and goat Milk Ewe and goat Milk Ewe, goat, or cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh and aged fresh Classification Hard Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various

Kefalotyri DOC Manouri Galotiri DOC Greece Made throughout Greece since the A very old and popular Greek “white” Galotiri is one of the oldest Greek Byzantine era, Kefalotyri is referred or fresh cheese that is made from the cheeses. it is predominantly made to as a “male or first cheese,” a term drained whey from Feta production, with ewe’s milk, typically for household used to describe cheeses made with full with the addition of larger quantities of consumption rather than on a milk—as opposed to “female or second” milk than used in Anthotyros. commercial scale. The fresh curds cheeses, which are made with whey. from successive days are placed in TAsTinG noTes similar to Feta cheese but barrels and sealed with fat or hung TAsTinG noTes Firm but dry with smoother, creamier, and less salty, from the rafters in sacks to drain until numerous irregular holes, it has a fresh Manouri is drained in cloth sacks and needed. if mold grows, it is scraped off taste and distinct tang of ewe’s milk. it generally sold in logs. to enable the whey to escape and the also has a herbaceous tang as it finishes, cheese to breathe. which is reminiscent of olive oil. how To enjoy its low salt content TAsTinG noTes soft and spreadable with means it is used in savory and sweet a refreshing, slightly sour and brackish how To enjoy Traditionally used in the dishes, particularly pastries such as taste, which is much appreciated by classic Greek dish saganaki, where spanakopita, a baked spinach and the Greeks. thick slices are fried, sometimes cheese filo pastry pie, or sweet pastries, covered in egg and bread crumbs, and or simply served drizzled with honey. how To enjoy Used in various served with a squeeze of lemon. traditional dishes, especially in GREECE All over spreads with herbs or spices. GREECE All over Age From a few days Age 3–4 months Weight and Shape 1lb (500g), log GREECE Epirus and Thessalia Weight and Shape 13–171⁄2lb (6–8kg), Size L. 91⁄2in (25cm) H. 3in (7cm) Age Few days to a few months drum Milk Ewe or goat Weight and Shape Various, small pots Size Various Classification Fresh Size No size Milk Ewe, and ewe and goat Producer Various Milk Ewe, or ewe and goat Classification Hard Classification Fresh Producer Various Producer Various Myzithra Made for thousands of years from whey of Feta and Kefalotyri, Myzithra is considered the ancestor of all Greek whey cheeses. it comes in two types: fresh Myzithra is unsalted or slightly salty and similar to cottage cheese, while aged is dry, salty, and firm. TAsTinG noTes Mild and refreshing when fresh, it has a nuttier and more salty 257 taste when aged and a dusty, gray moldy rind. how To enjoy Fresh Myzithra makes deliciously light sweet or savory dishes, while the dried version is ideal for grating over savory dishes such as pasta and pastries. GREECE All over Age From a couple of days Weight and Shape 2.5–4.5lb (1–2kg) (fresh); 1–3lb (500g–1.5kg) (dried), pear Size Various Milk Ewe and goat Classification Aged fresh Producer Various

Feta PDo a closer look according to Greek mythology, the gods sent apollo’s son to teach Feta is produced in homes, small the Greeks the art of cheesemaking; however, the first, but no less family-run dairies, and large magical, record of cheesemaking was homer’s Odyssey. Written industrial units, but all respect the in the 8th century, homer describes seeing Cyclops the giant traditional recipe protected by the making ewe’s milk cheese in his cave, a simple recipe that pdo status. It is an important would later become Feta. component of the Greek diet, connected with the history and traditions of the country. eastern europe and the near east Feta, granted protection in 2002 to those of us used to seeing sheep under the eu protected name grazing ankle-deep in grass and scheme pdo (see p8), can now only clover, it is hard to imagine they can be made in the mountainous regions eke out sufficient food to survive, let of Macedonia, thrace, epirus, alone produce milk for cheese from thessaly, sterea ellada, their diet of wild herbs, flowers, and peloponnesus, and Mytilini from tenacious grasses. But it is precisely ewe’s or goat’s milk because it is in why they produce some of the these areas that the herds still graze thickest, most aromatic milk in the freely. as you watch the agile goats world. the scent of the thyme, and endlessly patient sheep grazing marjoram, and pine are captured and the steep rugged hills and rock concentrated in the tiny fat globules strewn pastures, it is easy to see why in the milk. the comfort-loving cow never made Greece it home! there are no TasTing noTes Firm and compact pesticides, insect repellents, or other yet easily crumbled, it has no rind and pollutants used, and you can still a myriad of small holes. Very white if catch the sound and a glimpse of the made with pure goat’s milk, it has a herds passing through small villages very fresh taste that hints of wild on the way to new pastures. herbs, white wine, and a slightly goaty tang. ewe’s milk Feta feels a bit richer and creamier and is more ivory white. Feta is usually cut into small blocks and vacuum the taste is reminiscent of roast lamb, packed along with a little brine. Originally, lamb fat, and lanolin. Both have a salt shepherds who lived far from the sea where salt tang on the finish and a depth of flavor was bought would store their cheeses in olive oil. from the grazing. 258 How To enjoy Feta is eaten at every meal in Greece, notably in The hardy goats graze the rugged landscape of spanokopita, the delicious cheese and Greece’s mountainous regions. spinach pies found all over Greece. Feta is also used in salads, usually with GREECE All over olives, tomatoes, raw onion, and olive Age 2 months minimum oil, or mixed with any combination of Weight and Shape Various raw or cooked vegetables. It does not Size Various dissolve completely when baked or Milk Goat or ewe melted, giving a lightness to many Classification Fresh Greek dishes. Producer Various If you find Feta to be too salty, simply soak a chunk in cold water or milk for 10–15 minutes. this removes excess salt but does not mask its flavor.

Cutting the Curd Once the starter draining The curds and whey are culture and rennet have done their job, the soft poured onto large draining tables with floppy curd is cut into ½–¾in (1–2cm) cubes low sides, or traditionally it would have using what looks like a giant wooden comb or been put in a basket woven from reeds, square harp. and left to drain. During this time, the curd is turned 2–3 times over the next few hours and salted to speed up the expulsion of the whey. The color changes depending on the ratio of the different milks used. Goat’s milk is more white, whereas ewe’s milk is more ivory. Greece 259 Block of cheese It crumbles easily, making it perfect for salads.

hungary slovakia Kashkaval Bryndza PGI Oštiepok PGI eastern europe and the near east Kashaval has been made since before originally from the Carpathain a traditional ewe’s milk cheese, this is the roman empire and the creation of Mountain region, Bryndza is very similar to the polish oszcypek mozzarella, and similar cheeses are a Feta-style cheese, probably cheese. the curds are pressed into produced across eastern europe and introduced by the Greeks. similar beautiful, hand-crafted wooden molds Central asia. a pasta filata cheese—the cheeses are made throughout eastern giving each a unique identity, then curds have been heated and stretched europe using cow, goat, or ewe’s milk. stored in the eaves of the house where prior to salting, then aged—its color tastinG notes similar to Feta, but softer, it absorbs smoke from the fire below. ranges from pale yellow to yellow- spreadable, and not as salty. it has a tastinG notes smoky, slightly salty with brown, with a natural thin rind. lemony acidity and ranges from soft, to a caramel taste from the milk and the tastinG notes Flexible and crumbly, firm and crumbly, depending on its age rind ranges from a pale straw colored with a salty, sharp, almost bitter taste. and the type of milk used. to deep orange-brown, depending on there is also a hint of caramelized how to enjoy spread on warm grainy the age and smoking. onions in the aftertaste. bread or crumble over baby salad how to enjoy a table cheese, it combines how to enjoy traditionally a table leaves and tomatoes. served as part of well with cured meats and sausages. cheese, it can be fried, baked in pastry the traditional dish bryndzové halušky dishes, or grated over vegetables. (potato dumplings with Bryndza). 260 HUNGARY All over SLOVAKIA All over SLOVAKIA All over Age 8 weeks Age 4 weeks or more Age 1–4 weeks Weight and shape 15lb 7oz–19lb 13oz Weight and shape 31⁄2–10oz (100–300g), Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz–41⁄2lb (7–9kg), irregular round block (150g–2kg), various shapes Size D. 2–41⁄2in (5–11.5cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size L. 3–5in (7.5–12cm), 2–4in Size Various Milk Ewe, or ewe and cow (W. 5–10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Ewe Classification Hard Milk Ewe, goat, or cow Classification Hard Producer Various Classification Fresh Producer Various Producer Various

turkey cyprus Beyaz Peynir Tulum Anari Known as “white cheese,” this Feta-like One of the world’s oldest cheeses, anari is made using whey from TurKey anD Cyprus cheese is made and consumed in large Tulum is made by packing specially Halloumi, plus some goat or ewe’s milk quantities all over Turkey. The recipe cured goat’s skins with fresh curd over to improve the texture and taste. varies slightly from place to place, a period of weeks. The skins are Traditionally, if it is not consumed and it can be made from ewe, goat or stitched up and left to age for three fresh, it is salted and dried in the cow’s milk. months, before being slit open for the warm, dry air—which today happens TasTing nOTes The taste varies from cheese to be served from the skins. by gentle heating. season to season depending on the mix TasTing nOTes surprisingly mild with TasTing nOTes Chalky white, it is soft, of milks used. it can be salty to very aromatic or sweet flavors depending on moist, and creamy with a very delicate, salty, hard to soft, but the creamier the milk and the seasons. erzincan, the milky taste. Dried anari is very hard version produced in Marmara is much most common variety, can be quite and salty. sought after. strong and somewhat bitter. HOw TO enjOy Fresh anari is served with HOw TO enjOy it plays a major role in HOw TO enjOy a relatively expensive fruit or carob-based syrups, or used to Turkish cuisine from breakfast to artisan cheese, it is best served simply make bourekia—sweet and savory salads, snacks, or as a filling in drizzled with olive oil alongside fruit, pastries. Dried anari is grated over vegetable and pastry dishes. figs, olives, or fresh vegetables. salads, pasta or sauces. TURKEY All over TURKEY Eastern Anatolia and Aegean regions CYPRUS All over 261 Age Minimum of 3 months Age From 3 months Age From a few days to a few months Weight and shape 9oz–21⁄4lb (250g–1kg), Weight and shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 5oz Weight and shape Various various (500–600g); pots or blocks Size Various, L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), Size Various Size Various, L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 4in (10cm) (pictured) Milk Ewe, goat, or cow H. 4in (10cm) (pictured) Milk Goat and ewe Classification Fresh Milk Ewe, goat, or a mixture Classification Fresh Producer Various Classification Fresh Producer Various Producer Various

Halloumi a closer look Born out of a need to preserve milk and provide protein during the Halloumi is not unlike the Italian winter months when the sheep and goats stopped producing milk, pasta filata cheeses which are Halloumi was, and still is, a vital part of the Cypriot diet. stretched. Halloumi is in fact kneaded, but it produces a similar texture. What gives Halloumi its unique place eASTerN eurOPe AND THe NeAr eAST and is less expensive; however, this Heating Traditionally, raw goat’s or in culinary history is not only its does impact the taste. ewe’s milk, or a combination of both, was ability to keep its shape and not melt heated in a cauldron. Today, some cow’s when cooked, but the source of its Cyprus has applied for PDO milk is usually mixed in and pasteurized milk, the amazing Mouflon breed of status, which is expected to be in stainless steel vats. sheep, which were introduced in the confirmed in a few years. Neolithic period and over thousands of years adapted to their environment tasting notes Salty and and became an integral part of the tangy with a bouncy texture but, community. Sadly, they are now when cooked, the milk sugars or considered an endangered species lactose in the cheese caramelize on although in other parts of the world the outside, giving it a sweet onion they are bred for hunting and sport. taste, while the texture is supple, springy, and squeaky. Handsome looking, they have a red-brown rough coat and striking The flavor varies according to the thick spiral horns that arch back seasons and type of milk used. The over the head. best are made with raw goat’s and ewe’s milk during the spring and Some Halloumi is still made summer months when the free- traditionally in rural areas, but ranging animals graze on a myriad of following huge international demand, wild flowers, herbs, grasses, and most is now produced in factories. bushes that cover the rocky island. Although they adhere to the traditional recipe using goat’s and HoW to enJoY The main ewe’s milk, most mix it with some ingredient in a Cypriot breakfast, cow’s milk since it is not seasonal appetizer, or lunch, Halloumi is usually served alongside fresh fruit, 262 such as melon and figs, or with vegetables. It is the only cheese that the Mouflon sheep, introduced during the does not melt when heated, thanks to Neolithic period. its unique texture, and is excellent cut into thick slices and barbecued or fried as an appetizer. It is essential not to use oil when frying Halloumi, as this seals the cheese and stops the milk sugars from escaping, resulting in the cheese losing its sweet caramel flavor. CYPRUS All over Weight and Shape 12oz (250g), blocks Size L. 5in (12cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Goat, ewe, or cow Classification Fresh Producer Various

The early-formed rind is shiny from the brine in which it was stored. Cutting the Curds cyprus The curds are cut with knives or wires on a frame and stirred in the hot whey to harden the curd and expel more whey. The firm, dense texture is easy to slice for frying or grilling. 263 Block of cheese, sliced KneAding The still slightly rubbery curds are cut into plastic molds and pressed by hand to remove the excess whey and create the texture.

lebanon israel Akkawi Inbar Ketem eASTeRn euRoPe AnD THe neAR eAST Very similar to Feta, Akkawi is After a visit to a Swiss dairy, Michal Daniel and Anat Kornmehl, as part sometimes soaked in water to remove Melamed became fascinated with of a new generation of Israeli the salt so it can be used in sweet cheese making. She and her husband cheesemakers, have created a range of dishes. Its name originates from Acre, then moved to the Galilee where they european-style goat cheeses in the the port town. It is still made in many built their dairy in Kibbutz Reshafim negev desert. Ketem (“spot” in english) homes, but increasingly it is made to make ewe and goat cheese. Inbar is is based on the much-loved French commercially in europe for the a tribute to Alpine-style cheeses. cheese, Pelardon (see p73). Arab market. TASTInG noTeS Firm yet supple with TASTInG noTeS Beneath its wrinkled TASTInG noTeS Very white and firm with a hard, dry rind and delicate, yet white rind, it is firm yet creamy and some small holes and a fresh, salty aromatic, slightly nutty taste. Also melts in your mouth. when young it is taste. It feels slightly fatty when made made flavored with black pepper, distinctly goaty but mild; once mature with cow’s milk. thyme, red wine, mustard seeds, and it is strong, aromatic, sharp, and very How To enjoy It is very versatile and is even chiles. stormy in character. a staple ingredient of many Lebanese How To enjoy Good on a cheeseboard, How To enjoy Best served as part of a and Middle eastern dishes, from salads or slice thinly for sandwiches. Grate cheeseboard, but it is also good grilled to pastries, or simply as a snack. and melt in vegetable dishes. or baked. 264 LEBANON All over ISRAEL Kibbutz Reshafim, Emek ISRAEL Tlalim, Ramat HaNegev Age 1–3 months Hama’ayanot Age 2–3 weeks Weight and Shape Various, blocks Age From 2 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g), square Size L. 41⁄2–6in (11–15cm), W. 4–6in Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), round Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), (10–15cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 3–4in (7–8cm) H. 1in (3cm) Milk Ewe or cow Milk Ewe Milk Goat Classification Fresh Classification Flavor-added Classification Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Shirat Roim Dairy Producer Kornmehl Family Dairy

Labane Turkeez Zfatit Found throughout the Middle East, The Barkanit family dairy was one of a popular israeli cheese, Zfatit was isRaEL Labane is made by draining thick, the first in israel—established in 1978. first made in safed (Hebrew, Zfat) in full-fat yogurt overnight in cloth and is The family learned their skills in the 19th century by the Hame’iry made in many households for use as Europe and this attractive cheese, family. it is now made in small baskets one of the basic ingredients of Eastern made from the milk of their own sheep by various producers in israel and Mediterranean cuisine. Without doubt, and goats that graze the pastures of around the world. the best are made with ewe’s milk, but Harod Valley, is one of their best. TasTing noTEs Bearing the imprint of is increasingly made with cow’s milk. TasTing noTEs Velvety with a fresh the baskets, it is a little spongy but TasTing noTEs Deliciously rich and acidity and a hint of salt, while the high in moisture with a silky texture. velvety smooth with a mildly lemony walnuts provide a crunchy, nutty The combination of milky sweetness fresh tang. Those made with ewe’s milk balance. With age, it has a taste and salt makes it irresistible. often have a lovely sweetness. reminiscent of Roquefort (see pp82–83). flavored with herbs and spices. HoW To Enjoy Traditionally eaten at HoW To Enjoy good on cheeseboards, or HoW To Enjoy Best on a sunny morning breakfast or served with olive oil, fresh break it into chunks and use in fruit with a dash of olive oil, fresh tomatoes, local herbs, pine nuts, and pita bread. salads, with smoked meats or grilled basil, grated pepper, and accompanied over pears. Excellent with sweet wines. by warm sourdough bread. ISRAEL All over ISRAEL Kfar Yechezke’el, Gilboa ISRAEL All over 265 Age A few hours Age From a few days Age From a few days Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) and Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz and 1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round 1lb 2oz (500g), pots (150g and 500g), truncated cone Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size No size Size D. 4in and 8in (10cm and 20cm), H. 3in Milk Cow Milk Cow, ewe, goat, or a mixture and 6in (7cm and 15cm) Classification Fresh Classification Fresh Milk Goat Producer Various Producer Various Classification Fresh Producer Barkanit Dairy

Alaska cAnAdA Vache de Vashon Appel Farms Cheddar united Seastack StAteS Mutschli Golden Glen Creamery Mozzarella, mexico Creamery Subblime Samish Bay Cheese Montasio Pine Stump Crottin South Sally Jackson Cayuse Mountain Goat Grand Queso the AmericA Steamboat Island Beechers Flagship Reserve Goat Farm Gouda Alpine Lakes Creamy Bleu AmericAS Two Faced Blue Peccato wAShington Larzac ALASKA Up in Smoke oregon montAnA north wyoming dAKotA Cranberry Ridge Brindisi Alsea Acre Fromage Blanc South Farm Chevre Fontina dAKotA Goatzarella Bleu Age cAnAdA Ancient Heritage Scio gulf of Ferns Edge Goat Dairy Pondhopper alaska Smokey Blue Cheese idAho Elk Mt. Fog Lights Gavenstein Gold Sierra Nevada Ashed Tomette Yerba Santa Dairy Fresca nebrASKA Petit Marcel Charolais Matos St. George MouCo ColoRouge Andante Dairy Picolo, Carmela Délice de la Vallée, Barely Buzzed Queso de Mano Bellwether Farms Crescenza, Mezzo Secco, utAh Rustic Bleu Goat Taupinière Le Petit Chevre Bleu Monet Oakdale Cheese Company Gouda San Juaquin Gold Mt. Tam, St. Jorge coLorAdo Point Reyes Original Blue Hawai’i Tulare Cannonball nevAdA united StAteS Pozo Tomme Midcoast Teleme hAwAi’i Surfing Goat cALiforniA of AmericA Monterey Jack KAuA’i o’Ahu Dairy Quark Bubalus Bubalis Mozzerella di Bufala mAui Winchester Cheese Company Super Aged Gouda ArizonA Big Island Feta pacific new mexico ocean pacific ocean hAwAi’i texAS the americas Usa cheesemaking in north America began when the early settlers in the 17th century brought with them the skills of dairy farming and preserving milk in the form of butter and cheese. As more european settlers arrived, the range of cheeses made increased with Spanish-, dutch-, Swiss-, french-, english-, and italian-style cheeses all gaining popularity. it wasn’t until the mid-1800s that commercial production of cheese began, particularly in wisconsin, “the dairyland State,” with its vast, lush pastures and ideal climate for milk production. nowadays, there are hundreds of factories and large producers creating copies of the european classics alongside hundreds of artisan cheesemakers across the States, making cheeses as unique and original as the makers and the landscape.

Vermont maine Hartwell Vaquero Blue Baley Hazel Blue, Constant Bliss, Vermont Winnamere Cabot Clothbound Cheddar new Bouree, Coupole hampShire Menuet Blythdale Farm Camembert Soft Wheel, Tarentaise Twigg Square Cheese Vermont Ayr Ascutney Mountain Cheese new yorK Dorset Vermont Shepherd maSSaChuSettS maine minneSota Vermont City of Ships Hubbardston Blue Rosemary’s Waltz, R&R Cheddar Widmers Cellars Aged Brick Cheese Kunik new hampShire wiSConSin maSSaChuSettS Mona Cave Aged Marisa miChigan Ewe’s Blue Great Hill Blue Bad Axe, Les Frères rhode iSland O’Cooch new yorK Pleasant Ridge Reserve Bleu Mont Dairy Cheddar Triple Cream Wheel , Brigid’s Abbey, Gruyère SurchoixBridgewater Round Aged Green Peppercorn Chevre Hooligan iowa ConneCtiCut Maytag Blue Ouray, pennSlyVania Eden 5 Spoke Creamery Browning Gold Frisian Farms Mature Gouda Telford Reserve new JerSey ohio indiana Mountain Top Bleu delaware maryland illinoiS Fleur de la Terre weSt Virginia Old Kentucky Tome, Wabash Cannonball Everona Piedmont KanSaS miSSouri KentuCKy Virginia Awe Brie Appalachian, Grayson oKlahoma tenneSSee north Carolina Belle Chèvre arKanSaS Clemson Blue South Carolina alabama georgia AtlAntic oceAn Pecan Chèvre, Blanca Bianca, louiSiana Thomasville Tomme Hoja Santa miSSiSSippi Claire de Lune Fleur-de-Lis gulf of mexico n 200 miles Florida Key 200 km ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Produced only here Produced throughout the region

CANADA Canada’s cheese history dates back to 1635, when arctic ocean french colonists first produced cheese. throughout the centuries, immigrants from europe, the middle east, and even india brought baffin bay with them their favorite recipes, adding diversity and complexity to the variety of cheeses. until the 1990s, most cheeses were made on small farms for local consumption or in huge factories that produced blocks of strong cheddar. the renaissance of artisan cheesemakers, who used cow’s, goat’s, and ewe’s milk, led Canadians to discover and voice their pride in their country’s exceptional cheeses. nearly 200 cheese companies exist today, which reflects increasing consumption. Key ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Produced only here Produced throughout the region beaufort sea yukon nunavut Labrador sea territory newfoundland guLf of aLaska northwest territories queen Canada hudson bay newfoundland Charlotte and laBrador islands alBerta ProduCed quÉBeC Old Grizzly throughout British the Country Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar ColumBia Baby Blue Cheddar Curds Sieur de Duplessis Le Paillasson de I’isle d’Orléans manitoBa Bouquetin de Portneuf, La Sauvagine saskat- ontario Chewan Le Délice des Appalaches Harvest Moon Le Cendré des Prés Allegretto Le Sabot de Blanchette vanCouver PrinCe island La Barre du Jour, edward Le Cru des Erables island Pacific ocean Dragon’s Seven-Year-Old Orange Cheddar new Breath Blue nova BrunswiCk sCotia Bleu Bénédictin Le Cabanon Piacere Prestige Oka Classique Vicky’s Spring Splendour n 500 miles Comfort Cream 500 km atLantic ocean

mexiCo guLf of MEXICO the history of mexican cheese can be traced back to mexico 16th century Spanish conquistadors, who introduced cattle, goats, ProduCed and sheep to mexico, along with the agricultural practices required throughout Central for their successful husbandry. many mexican cheeses have the Country ameriCa Spanish influences, but some mimic Portuguese and italian styles. SOUTH AMERICA on a continent famous for beef rather than Queso Anejo, dairy, production of cheese has until recently been limited. due Queso Blanco, to the influence of Spanish, Portuguese, and italian immigrants, Queso Fresco however, the numerous acres of natural grazing were finally put to use in making cheese an important part of the diet and economy. Key caribbean sea ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Produced only here Produced throughout the region guyana Venezuela Suriname frenCh guiana ColumBia equador South ameriCa n Peru Brazil pacific ocean BoliVia Paraguay Queijo Mineiro Requeijão Cremoso 800 miles uruguay 800 km Chile argentina ProduCed throughout the Country Sardo atLantic ocean

usa the AmericAs Aged Green Alsea Acre Fromage Andante Dairy Picolo Peppercorn Chevre Blanc the cheesemakers at california’s coach Farm has acquired a reputation the mild oregon climate provides the Andante Dairy are inspired by the for outstanding quality over the last Alsea Acre family farm with the ideal various musical tempos of the few years and has won numerous environment to create european-style cheesemaking process. this luxurious international awards. they make cheeses all year round. triple-cream cheese combines jersey regular appearances at many of New milk and crème fraîche. York city’s great farmer’s markets. tAstiNg Notes the pure goat’s milk tAstiNg Notes made with fresh farm flavors arrive with a zesty fresh taste, cow’s milk, Picolo has a pleasantly tAstiNg Notes Firm and crumbly, it has alongside hints of citrus and pinenut. tart and sweet taste inspired by spring. a lemony sourness that is perfectly the finish is a complex and creamy when properly aged, it melts in accented, but not overpowered, by the taste on the palate. the mouth. mild green peppercorn flavor. the how to eNjoY Drizzle wedges of Picolo finish is delicate and clean. how to eNjoY sprinkle over fresh salad with citrus honey and accompany with greens with green grapes, roasted a sweet baguette and a glass of how to eNjoY Delicate yet complex, it is almonds, and toasted crostini. enjoy sparkling Prosecco. ideal with a summer salad of fresh with a chilled glass of roussanne. greens and ripe tomatoes. 270 USA Pine Plains, New York USA Alsea, Oregon USA Petaluma, California Age 30 days Age From a few days Age 2–4 weeks Weight and Shape 3lb (1.35kg), brick Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), tubs Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g), round Size L. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size No size Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Soft white Classification Fresh Classification Soft white Producers Coach Farm Producers Alsea Acre Producers Andande Dairy

Appalachian Appel Farms Cheddar Ascutney Mountain usa Cheese Meadow Creek Dairy, located in the This cheese is handmade at appel mountainous southwest of Virginia, Farms in Washington state using the The Cobb hill cheesemakers are part of draws inspiration from various Cheddaring technique of authentic a community of 23 households making traditional European cheeses. English cheddar (see p180–181). The agricultural products. They produce appalachian loosely resembles a milk comes from a herd of 300 cows fed two raw milk cheeses from a small herd French Tomme (see pp90–94). on grass and corn silage grown on the of jersey cows. The farm uses no TasTing noTEs The flavor is very delicate farm. an alternative variety is flavored chemical fertilizers, additives, or feeds. and raw with strong vegetal notes and with black peppers a spicy finish. The texture is dense and TasTing noTEs aged a minimum of TasTing noTEs Loosely based on alpine chewy with a musty strong aroma. 3 months, the nutty and buttercup cheeses, ascutney Mountain is not hoW To Enjoy appalachian melts well, flavors become sharper on the quite as dense but still has a firm making it the perfect cooking cheese. palate as it matures. texture. The mild initial flavor develops however, the flavor is robust enough to hoW To Enjoy an outstanding addition toward a pineapple-like sweet and serve the cheese on its own. to homemade macaroni and cheese. sour finish. accompany with a fine Pilsner. hoW To Enjoy The sweet taste favors a good hoppy beer, like an iPa, and some savory chutney. USA Galax, Virginia USA Ferndale, Washington USA Hartland, Vermont 271 Age 60 days Age 3–6 months Age 6–10 months Weight and Shape 10lb (4.5kg) wheel Weight and Shape 5lb (2.25kg), wheel Weight and Shape 10lb (4.5kg), wheel Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 15in (38cm), H. 5in (12cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Classification Hard Producers Meadow Creek Dairy Producers Appel Farms Producers Cobb Hill Cheese

Ashed Tomette Awe Brie Barely Buzzed The AmericAs since 1976, Ana and Gilbert cox have From a farm located in the rolling hills hand-rubbed with a blend of south been making award-winning cheese of Kentucky and influenced by Western American and indonesian coffee beans from their herd of Alpine, La mancha, european cheesemakers, Awe Brie is finely ground with French lavender and Nubian dairy goats on their farm the first Brie made within the United buds, and mixed with oil to suspend the just north of the town of Willits in states to be produced using raw milk. dry ingredients in the rub, Barely mendocino county. in fact, all of the farm’s cheeses are Buzzed is aged in caves on Utah blue TAsTiNG NoTes The striking ash-covered made using raw milk, piped fresh from spruce. its unusual name comes disc has a firm yet flaky texture, with a the milking barn for processing. courtesy of a contest held by Beehive cream-white center that has a subtle TAsTiNG NoTes The cheese is ripened to cheese company in 2007. goaty taste and nutty overtones. 60 days. its snow-white exterior TAsTiNG NoTes A smooth cheddar-style hoW To eNjoy match with a hearty conceals a golden interior that has a cheese with a nutty flavor, the rub and cabernet, and serve with a seasonal silky texture and robust flavor. sweet jersey milk impart hints of fresh fruit platter and warm crunchy hoW To eNjoy in honor of Kentucky, a butterscotch, caramel, and coffee. sweet baguettes. bourbon and fresh pear slices are the hoW To eNjoy This is ideal paired with a perfect marriage to serve alongside a stout and crusty whole wheat bread. cheeseboard of Awe Brie. 272 USA Willits, California USA Austin, Kentucky USA Uintah, Utah Age 2–4 weeks Age 60 days Age 3–4 months Weight and Shape 2oz (60g), disc Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), wheel Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4.1–5kg), Size Various Size Various wheel Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Classification Fresh Classification Soft white Milk Cow Producer Shamrock Artisan Goat Cheese Producer Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese Classification Flavor-added Producer Beehive Cheese Company

Bayley Hazen Blue Belle Chèvre Bellwether Farms USA Crescenza The Kehlers have been producing Located in Elkmont, Alabama, cheese from a pure Ayrshire herd only Fromagerie Belle Chèvre is among This cheese is modeled on the famous since 2002, but the complexity and relatively few cheesemakers in the italian cheese Crescenza (see p116), sophistication of their products speaks southern United States. Nonetheless, right down to its traditional square to the incredible amount of research the creamery has gathered more than shape, but with a twist of California and training they have undergone as 50 awards over the years for its fresh coastal sea breeze flavor. they strive for perfection. goat’s milk cheeses. TASTiNg NoTES A medium-strong and TASTiNg NoTES This traditional French- TASTiNg NoTES Handmade and sent to relatively dry blue cheese, Bayley style chèvre is very rich and smooth, market at 1 week of age, it is milky Hazen Blue delivers a complex flavor. with a tangy flavor and distinct white and high in moisture. The rich The blue is upfront and slightly herbaceous finish. jersey milk gives it a creamy flavor peppery, while the cheese’s finish is How To ENjoy Marries well with almost balanced by a pleasant tartness and long and creamy. any preserve and perfect for any recipe yeasty finish. How To ENjoy Complemented well by that calls for fresh chèvre. Alternatively, Port or sweet wines, it is best served as serve plain with almonds, walnuts, and How To ENjoy Dollop a spoonful of part of a cheeseboard. a crisp white wine. homemade apricot compote over the top, serve with crunchy fresh baguette, and pair with a crisp Pinot Blanc. USA Greensboro, Vermont USA Elkmont, Alabama USA Petaluma, California 273 Age 4–6 months Age Fresh Age 1 week Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), drum Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), log Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), square Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 9in (23cm) Size D. 1in (2.5cm), L. 2in (5cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 1⁄2in (1cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Fresh Classification Fresh Producer Jasper Hill Farm Producer Fromagerie Belle Chèvre Producer Bellwether Farms

Big Island Feta Big Woods Blue Blanca Bianca THE AMERICAS Dick Threlfall, a retired farrier who Despite losing much of their herd in a Paula Lambert has spent more than shod horses for more than 35 years, devastating fire on the farm in 2005, 20 years working with cheese, drawing focuses on the feta, the herd, and the the Reads have been slowly rebuilding particular inspiration from her travels machinery, while Heather, having with the help of the local community in Italy. The Mozzarella Company was worked in the veterinary field, milks the and Slow Food groups, and continue to founded to produce fresh mozzarella, goats and makes the soft cheese. produce this magnificent raw milk but production now includes many of TASTIng noTES The pleasant slight tang cheese for blue lovers. Paula’s own creations, including this has a hint of unusual flavors because TASTIng noTES Creamy and mild, it is cheese washed with white wine. the goats graze on pastures as well as very approachable for blue-shy tasters, TASTIng noTES Rich and full-flavored, the tropical vegetation ranging from bamboo yet still complex and surprising for chewy paste fills the mouth and nose shoots to macadamia tree leaves. veterans. The robust and only slightly with sweet floral tastes. while not a How To Enjoy Create a Hawaiian salad salty cheese melts in the mouth like particularly powerful washed-rind with toasted whole macadamia nuts, milk chocolate. cheese when young, it develops a strong fresh-picked spinach, sweet island How To Enjoy The complexity of this but pleasing punch as it matures. pineapple, and serve with a chilled cheese deserves to be matched with How To Enjoy Try with dark walnut Kona Brewing Big wave golden ale. a great vintage port. raisin bread and a light beer. 274 USA Honokaa, Hawaii USA Nerstrand, Minnesota USA Dallas, Texas Age 3–12 weeks Age 4–6 months Age 2 months Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), block Weight and Shape 7lb (3.2kg), round Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g), flat wheel Size Various Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Goat Milk Ewe Milk Cow Classification Fresh Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft Producer Hawaiian Island Goat Dairy Producer Shepherd’s Way Farms Producer Mozzarella Company

Bleu Mont Cheddar Blythedale Farm Bourrée Camembert Willie Lehner is a second-generation Dancing Cow Farm began producing cheesemaker who trained in england Becky and Tom Loftus at Blythedale cheese in 2006. Unlike many artisanal and Switzerland. He buys milk from Farm in Corinth, Vermont, have been cheesemakers, after the cheese is made, local certified organic producers and producing Camembert and Brie-style Steve and Karen getz hand the job makes cheese off-site at other producers’ cheeses since 1994. They have stuck of ripening over to the experts in cheesemaking facilities. All his cheeses with the tried-and-true recipe, using the cellars at Jasper Hill, so that they are then transferred to a custom-built milk from their herd of Jersey cows to can focus on maintaining high milk cave on his property to ripen. produce these well-regarded cheeses. quality standards. TASTing noTeS With a very pleasant and TASTing noTeS While possessing the TASTing noTeS Although it is a washed- USA tasty element of freshly turned earth, typical rich creamy flavor you would rind cheese, its aroma is relatively mild this handmade clothbound Cheddar expect in a Camembert-style cheese, it and floral. The texture is smooth, rich, has a medium-strong flavor with good has a softer and wetter rind, as well as and somewhat sticky on the palate, grassy notes and a nice lingering finish. a tarter initial flavor. with a peanut-like flavor that grows HoW To enJoy Savor on its own with HoW To enJoy Use to make a great ham more intense as it finishes. some chutney and dried figs or dates. and Camembert sandwich on a baguette, HoW To enJoy Bourrée is best served or serve with crackers and Champagne. with a strong ale and some chutney. USA Blue Mounds, Wisconsin USA Corinth, Vermont USA Bridport, Vermont 275 Age 12–18 months Age 4 weeks Age 3 months Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), drum Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), round Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Producer Bleu Mont Dairy Producer Blythedale Farm Producer Dancing Cow Farmstead Cheese

The AmericAS 276 MT. TAM The red or brown streaks and pigments that develop on the rind are gradually covered by the more virulent white Penicillium mold, but as maturation progresses, the streaks will once again appear through the white. (See p292).

Bridgewater Round Brigid’s Abbey Bubulus Bubalis USA Mozzarella di Bufala Zingerman’s has firmly built its Brigid’s Abbey is the most popular ever-growing reputation on selling cheese out of about 12 varieties made Making cheeses in the traditional style, excellent, flavorsome, traditionally at Cato Corner, a small family-run Bubalus Bubalis is the only producer of made foods, including a huge range of farm priding itself on the high quality water buffalo mozzarella, as well as cheeses, and educating and inspiring of its Jersey milk. In true farmhouse ricotta cheese and scamorza (smoked their staff and customers alike. So it style, this washed-rind cheese varies in mozzarella), in California. was almost inevitable that it would texture with the seasons. turn its hand to cheesemaking. TASTIng noTeS The cheese is at its most TASTIng noTeS A fresh, snow-white TASTIng noTeS Made with added cream creamy during the winter months. The buffalo milk, hand-formed into a round and spiked with freshly ground black flavor is rich and earthy, with hints of and filled with creamy and delicate pepper. Bridgewater Round has a rich, straw. In the summer, it becomes quite flavors with a silky finish. silky feel and taste, with a hint of firm and more vegetal-tasting. mushrooms on the finish. How To enJoy This monastery-style How To enJoy Layer fresh mozzarella in How To enJoy A star of the cheeseboard, cheese naturally pairs well with beer. slices with fresh basil leaves, roasted it is complemented by nuts, dried fruit, great with crudités, it is also delicious red peppers, golden tomatoes, crushed and a crisp, fruity Chinon. melted in grilled cheese sandwiches. olives, and roasted eggplant slices, and drizzle with olive oil. Accompany with a glass of Friulano. USA Ann Arbor, Michigan USA Colchester, Connecticut USA Gardena, California 277 Age 4–8 weeks Age 3–4 months Age 1–7 days Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), round Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), ball Size Various Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size Various Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Water buffalo Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Producer Zingerman’s Producer Cato Corner Farm Producer Bubalus Bubalis

Cabot Clothbound Cave Aged Marisa Charolais THE AMERICAS Cabot Creamery can trace its origins Sid Cooke is the master cheesemaker This farmstead cheese made with back to 1919, when a cooperative of at the helm of this large wisconsin alpine goat’s milk has a distinct rind 94 local farmers was formed in Vermont. creamery, which produces dozens of that provides an attractive contrast to This raw milk cheese, a handmade varieties of cheese, yet crafts each one its pure white interior. Cheeses are traditional bandaged Cheddar, is cave- with great care and attention. The made in small 190-liter (50-gallon) aged in the cellars at Jasper Hill Farm. majority is made with cow’s milk, but batches using 1- to 2-day-old milk. TASTIng noTES Initially sweet and this one uses ewe’s milk. TASTIng noTES This is at its peak at buttery on the palate, its finish is much TASTIng noTES A dense medium-firm about 60 days, when the flavors arrive more savory and heavy; rather than a natural rind cheese, it has an intense to melt in your mouth with subtle and classic Cheddar acidity, it has a fuller, floral aroma and a very sweet initial delicate hints of the Bodega coast. rounder sour bite. flavor. As the flavor develops, it How To EnJoy Champagne complements How To EnJoy Serve simply with some becomes more savory. There is a hint a cheeseboard of Charolais, especially hearty bread, homemade chutney, and of lanoline to the finish. when served with fresh gravenstein a beer. Big red wines work well, too. Its How To EnJoy It is great served with apples, honey-toasted walnuts, and a flavor and texture also make Cabot black fruit preserves or quince paste, crusty sweet baguette. Clothbound perfect for sandwiches. and good hearty dark bread. 278 USA Montpelier, Vermont USA La Valle, Wisconsin USA Bodega, California Age 12 months or more Age 6 months Age 60 days minimum Weight and Shape 12lb (5.4kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), round Weight and Shape 4–7oz (115–200g), Size D. 18in (46cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm) cylinder Milk Cow Milk Ewe Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 4in (10cm) Classification Hard Classification Hard Milk Goat Producer Cabot Creamery Cooperative Producer Carr Valley Cheese Company Classification Aged fresh Producer Bodega Artisan Cheese

City of Ships Clemson Blue Constant Bliss This small producer keeps her business Produced at Clemson University, The name comes from American USA local, buying milk from nearby farms Clemson Blue dates back to 1941, when Revolutionary history and seems and supplying cheese to local outlets, the cheese was aged in an abandoned improbably fitting because the but the high-quality milk and expert railroad tunnel under Stumphouse cheese is aged just to the US legal ripening make this worth seeking out. Mountain. Since the late 1950s, the minimum of 60 days and offers a rare TASTing noTeS highly complex flavors entire making and ripening process has glimpse into the world of soft raw milk cover the full range of senses. initially taken place on campus. cheeses, typically unavailable in the sweet, it yields to herbal and sea salty TASTing noTeS The texture is medium- United States. flavors, building to a strong lingering grained and slightly clumpy, but on the TASTing noTeS The thin dry rind has a butterscotch finish that coats the palate it quickly opens up into an stony aroma and slight bitterness tongue. The texture is tight and chewy, exceptionally smooth creaminess. its enveloped by the paste’s salty, buttery, with a faint crunch. medium blue flavor is well balanced almost popcorn-like flavor. with age, it how To enjoy To savor the best of its against a buttermilk sweetness. becomes soft and rich, but not runny. myriad flavors, serve it on its own or how To enjoy its moderate intensity how To enjoy Feature on a cheeseboard with other medium-strength cheeses allows it to be paired with both sweet with other premium cheeses. even better, and mild crackers with gentle textures. wines and fruitier reds such as Merlot. serve with Champagne and caviar. USA Phippsburg, Maine USA Clemson, South Carolina USA Greensboro, Vermont 279 Age 8 months Age 6 months Age 60 days Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), rounded Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), flat disc Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round wheel Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 11in (28cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Soft white Classification Hard Producer Clemson University Producer Jasper Hill Farm Producer Hahn’s End

THE AMERICAS Coupole Cranberry Ridge Délice de la Vallée Farm Chèvre Allison Hooper’s cheesemaking journey Délice de la Vallée is named in honor began in the 1970s, working in France. Unique to Alaska, Cranberry Ridge of both California’s Sonoma Valley and By 1985 she had formed Vermont Farm is one of only three cheesemakers the delicacy and flavor of the cheese. Butter and Cheese Company with Bob located in wasilla, where it produces TASTIng noTES A blend of fresh cow’s Reese, where they make a variety of French-style chèvre from a herd of and goat’s milk, the cheese has a sweet award-winning dairy products. Coupole, Alpine, La Mancha, nubian, and essence and creamy delicate sensation sprinkled with ash, exhibits all the best Saanen goats. on the palate. qualities of a French-style goat cheese. How To Enjoy Drizzle with a Meyer TASTIng noTES Soft and smooth, but not TASTIng noTES Aged for just 1 week, this lemon and olive oil dressing, sprinkle runny, it has just enough punch to fresh cheese has a subtle goat’s milk with fresh basil, and serve with rustic remind you of the goat’s milk from flavor, light and clean to taste, with a breads and a bottle of chilled Friulano. which it is made, but is mild enough to delicate lemony essence. charm first-time goat cheese tasters. How To Enjoy Perfect on a cheeseboard, How To Enjoy Serve as a simple but or try it in a salad that includes nuts, delicious dessert with fresh golden pears, and a spicy salad green. raspberries and garnished with mint leaves, accompanied by Champagne. 280 USA Bare, Vermont USA Wasilla, Alaska USA Sonoma, California Age 45 days Age 1 week Age 1–7 days Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), dome Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), tubs Weight and Shape 8oz (225g) and Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size No size 2lb (900g), Milk Goat Milk Goat Size Various Classification Aged fresh Classification Fresh Milk Cow and goat Producer Vermont Butter and Cheese Producers Rhonda & Matt Shaul Classification Fresh Producer Sheana Davis

Dorset Eden Everona Piedmont Located in Vermont’s Champlain Valley, Located just an hour north of New York The Piedmont region of Virginia is in USA the dairy has roots dating back to the City, Sprout Creek Farm makes a wide the foothills of the ancient Blue Ridge mid-19th century. It is now being variety of cheeses from its mixed herd, Mountains, and Dr. Pat elliot has revitalized by cheesemaker Peter Dixon using traditional methods and operated a full-time sheep farm here and others, who produce several sustainable farming practices. The milk since 1992, alongside her farm-based cheeses from their organic herds of is produced seasonally. In harmony family medical practice. everona also jersey cows and oberhasilis goats. with its cheesemaking ventures, the produces the ewe’s milk cheese Stony TASTINg NoTeS Dorset is a lightly washed farm also offers educational workshops Man, as well as a range of flavored, or Taleggio-style cheese. Not particularly to increase understanding of good “infused,” versions of Piedmont, and a pungent, the soft but chewy cheese farming practices. wine-washed cheese, Pride of Bacchus. displays the butteriness of the jersey TASTINg NoTeS Lightly washed in brine, TASTINg NoTeS Made with raw ewe’s milk well, with a round, sweet flavor. it has an apple tartness to its flavor, milk, it is filled with nutty, fruity, and How To eNjoY Dorset benefits from being with a long and full savory finish. The even floral tones, with a creamy finish. left to come to room temperature, as texture is supple and chewy. How To eNjoY This pairs wonderfully the flavor really opens up. Lovely with How To eNjoY This cheese is perfect to with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, served Malbec and dried fruit. serve with cider. simply with fresh pear slices. USA West Pawlet, Vermont USA Poughkeepsie, New York USA Rapidan, Virginia 281 Age 60 days Age 3 months Age: 3–6 months Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), round Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), flat wheel Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g) and 6lb Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 2in (5cm) (2.7kg), wheel Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe Producer Bardwell Farm Producer Sprout Creek Farm Classification Hard Producer Everona Dairy

Ewe’s Blue Fleur-de-Lis Fleur de la Terre The AmericAs Located in New York state’s hudson Bittersweet Plantation Dairy produces Located outside indianapolis, Traders Valley, Old chatham has grown since several artisan cheeses that reflect Point was established by jane and 1993 to become one of the largest sheep Lousiana’s rich creole and cajun Fritz Kunz out of a desire to protect not dairies in the United states. its range cultural and culinary heritage. This just traditional farming, but also the of sophisticated and well-executed triple-cream guernsey milk cheese is land itself from the pressures of cheese and yogurt products are widely named in honor of the French fleur-de- suburban development. The organic available throughout the United states. lis symbol, as it was the French who farm produces cheese year-round from TAsTiNg NOTes similar in style to founded the colony of Louisiana, and a herd of Brown swiss cows. roquefort, it is moist and creamy with continue to live there in spirit. TAsTiNg NOTes it has an uncomplicated pockets of blue-green mold and fruity, TAsTiNg NOTes Aged for four weeks, this but interesting profile; despite its age, buttery notes; it has a more mineral- white bloomy rind cheese, with its the cheese has a raw brightness of like character and less saltiness than smooth, buttery center, makes for a flavor and a tart finish, with a smooth its French counterpart. perfect taste of France from Louisiana. but slightly chewy paste. hOw TO eNjOY Try it crumbled on top of hOw TO eNjOY complement Fleur-de-Lis hOw TO eNjOY The fresh flavor is the salad greens, or enjoy it simply, with with a delicate riesling and a bowl of highlight here, and should be paired French bread and a glass of sauterne. Louisiana pecans. with fresh fruits and a pear cider. 282 USA Old Chatham, New York USA Gonzales, Louisiana USA Zionsville, Indiana Age 6–8 months Age 4 weeks Age 4–6 months Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), cylinder Weight and Shape 12lb (5.4kg), boulder Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 8in (20cm) , H. 5in (12cm) Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Soft white Classification Hard Producer Old Chatham Sheepherding Producer Bittersweet Plantation Dairy Producer Traders Point Creamery Company

Fog Lights Les Frères Frisian Farms Mature UsA Gouda this beautiful ash- and mold-covered Located in Waterloo, Wisconsin, this cheese is named after the lights viewed farm with a herd of 950 Holstein cows Making farmstead gouda in the Dutch through the Humboldt fog that often is operated by the four Crave brothers tradition is part of Frisian Farms’ line the region of California’s northern and their families. It produces cheeses commitment to its Dutch ancestry. It is coast where Cypress grove is found. that reflect the family’s French and located just outside Pella, Iowa, a tAstIng notes each disc, which is Irish heritage such as Les Frères and predominantly Dutch community that covered with a bloomy rind, is aged for its little brother, Petit Frère, but also has preserved its Dutch culture, four weeks, producing an elegant finish includes mozzarella and mascarpone. including traditional windmills, an of rich and creamy goat flavor. tAstIng notes A washed-rind cheese, Les historical village, and an annual tulip HoW to enjoy slice over a bed of fresh Frères has a very gentle and somewhat festival. the gouda is available in seasonal salad greens, drizzled with claylike aroma. Its rind is leathery and young, mature, and smoked versions. olive oil and white balsamic vinegar; chewy, while the soft, very rich paste complement with a Carignane wine. or has a complex salty-sweet flavor. tAstIng notes each golden wheel is serve with slices of fresh apple, or even HoW to enjoy terrific on a cheeseboard filled with nutty flavors and fruity as a dessert with baked pears. with dark beers and dried fruit, or try it essences, with a sweet cream finish. melted over potatoes and grilled onions. HoW to enjoy savor with a Riesling, fresh grapes, and wheat crackers. USA Arcata, California USA Waterloo, Wisconsin USA Oskaloosa, Iowa 283 Age 4 weeks Age 3 weeks Age 6–8 weeks minimum Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), disc Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g), round Weight and Shape 20lb (9.1kg), wheel Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 6in (15cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Producer Cypress Grove Chèvre Producer Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese Producer Frisian Farms

Goatzarella Grand Queso Gravenstein Gold Fifty Alpine and Nubian goats provide The Roths’ stated mission when they Gravenstein Gold is named in honor the organic milk for this supple, elastic began producing cheese in the United of the Sebastopol Gravenstein, the mozzarella-style cheese. The goats are States was not to import cheese, but home-grown variety of apple in which also the family pets and all know their rather to utilize the traditions and the cheese is washed and which is such names. Goatzarella is one of several technology. Although Grand Queso is a vital part of the rich history and goat’s milk cheeses made by Fraga reminiscent of Spanish Manchego, it economy of Sebastopol. Farm, including a chèvre and a feta. has its own unique flavor profile. TASTING NoTES As the cheese is aged, the apple cider wash creates a balanced, THE AMERICAS TASTING NoTES Made with vegetarian TASTING NoTES It has a full, rounded complex array of flavors, including rennet, it is rich in cream with a grassy taste and aroma that is sweet and very hints of apples and cream. meadow flavor, and finishes with a buttery, while the texture is gummy How To ENjoy Ideal as an appetizer, silky texture on the palate. and slightly oily, but not heavy. Gravenstein Gold is particularly enjoyable with hard apple cider, fresh How To ENjoy For cooking rather than How To ENjoy Grand Queso is a terrific apple slices, and pumpkin seed bread. for the cheeseboard, it grates and melts option in Spanish and Mexican recipes superbly. Try it on fresh herbed foccacia calling for a hard full-flavored cheese. with tomatoes and olive oil, paired with or serve it grated over bruschetta an oregon Pinot Noir. topped with sun-dried tomatoes. 284 USA Sweet Home, Oregon USA Monroe, Wisconsin USA Sebastopol, California Age 2–6 weeks Age 6 months Age 2–3 months Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), square Weight and Shape) 5lb (2.25kg, wheel Weight and Shape 3lb (1.35kg), wheel Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size Various Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat Classification Fresh Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Producer Fraga Farm Goat Cheese Producer Roth Käse USA Producer Redwood Hill Farm

Grayson Great Hill Blue Gruyère Surchoix Meadow Creek Dairy is located in the This old dairy farm located south of The Roth family came to the United USA Blue Ridge Mountains of southwest Boston has been in the family for more States from Switzerland in 1990 to Virginia, at an altitude of 2800ft (850m). than a generation. The dairy purchases capitalize on the great milk produced According to the cheesemakers, it is the Jersey and Holstein milk from several in wisconsin. The family had been in great air and water quality, along with surrounding farms, but it is neither the cheese business for generations, ecologically responsible farming, that pasteurized nor homogenized. The and the result is an American gruyère result in exceptionally high milk quality. resulting cheese has won numerous that is of similar quality to the Swiss TASTing noTeS This intensely strong- awards since its launch in 1996. original, but with distinctive character. smelling washed cheese possesses an TASTing noTeS it has a surprisingly tight TASTing noTeS The pale white cheese has appropriately strong vegetal flavor. its texture that opens on the palate like an aroma of dried apples with a hint of firm texture holds up well on the palate, cool butter. Tangy with a good blue mustiness. The flavor continues in that and it finishes surprisingly cleanly. punch, it is just salty enough to direction, but the lengthy finish turns How To enJoy grayson’s intense flavor complement the natural sweetness. to a meaty saltiness. demands strong-flavors to match, such How To enJoy Delightful on its own or in How To enJoy The perfect choice for as crackers with black pepper, or rye a salad with apples and bacon; pair fondue. Alternatively, serve with a bread with onion confit. with aromatic Riesling or Viognier. selection of dry salamis and Riesling. USA Galax, Virginia USA Marion, Massachusetts USA Monroe, Wisconsin 285 Age 4 months Age 6 months Age 9–19 months Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), square Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), drum Weight and Shape 16lb (7.3kg), wheel Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 5in (12cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue Classification Hard Producers Meadow Creek Dairy Producer Great Hill Dairy Producer Roth Käse USA

monterey Jack a closer look also known as monterey sonoma Jack or, colloquially, “Jack,” there are numerous Jacks on the monterey Jack was given its official title by the Food and Drug market, and flavored ones are gaining administration in 1955 to encompass all the varieties then on the in popularity. Young, mezzo secco. market. a debate has raged as to whom actually created or Dry—the process remains largely monterey Jack, and the characters behind the story are as the same—the difference is in smooth, colorful, and sharp as a Dry Jack itself. the maturing the americas in the mid-1800s, Dona Juana cota manufacture the cheese on a large measuring the curds Once the de Boronda made and sold a cheese scale, however, according to research whey has been drained, the curds are carefully called Queso del Pais door-to-door to by Wendy moss in 1966, it was the help feed her family of 15 children. Franciscan monks in the 1700s who measured and placed in square pieces of meanwhile, Domingo Pedrazzi of brought the recipe for a soft, creamy carmel Valley is known to have cheese known as Queso Blanco Pais cheesecloth, then knotted, ready for shaping. created a similar cheese that from spain, via mexico. required the application of pressure from a device called a “housejack.” he today, monterey Jack is one of the named it Pedrazzi’s Jack cheese. best-loved american cheeses and can be found in most supermarkets. it it was the shrewd and less-than- accounts for about 10 percent of all popular local businessman David cheese production in california. Jacks, however, that laid claim to monterey Jack cheese, and it is said tasting notes Young Jack is that he stole the idea of Queso del very mild with a lactic taste. it is Pais and started major production sometimes flavored with spices, using milk from his 14 dairy ranches pimientos, or jalapeño peppers. the in the 1890s. Jacks marketed the Farmstead version is almost runny, has cheese as Jacks’ cheese. an earthy, mushroomy aroma, and a sweet creamy taste that hints of What is not in doubt is that David hazelnuts, with a citrus tang. Jack was the first person to mezzo secco is a firmer fresh Jack. 286 it first appeared in the 1930s as an alternative to Parmesan. aged for 7–12 months or longer, it has a deep yellow-gold interior with a grainy, brittle texture and a deep full-bodied tang that is sweet and nutty. the best example is the Dry Jack made by ig Vella of Vella cheeses—a legend in his own life. drums of dry Jack mature on wooden racks of how to enJoy the a cellar. Dry Jack is usually aged for 7–12 months. supple texture of Young Jack is perfect for grilling, snacking, USA California or in numerous mexican-style Age 1 week–12 months dishes. Young Jack is perfect Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg) drum with a cool beer or cider. Dry Size Various Jack is great for sauces, Milk Cow omelets, soufflés, or grated on Classification Semi soft (Monterey Jack); pasta, tacos, and enchiladas. Dry Hard (Dry Jack) Jack needs the depth of one of Producer Various california’s great reds.

maturing The cheeses are aged for about five weeks until their edges firm up. at this stage, the cheese is soft and supple and ready for consumption as Young Jack. More mature varieties are hand-coated with a special mixture of vegetable oil, cocoa, and pepper, which ensures the cheese dries out slowly over the next seven or so months. shaping It takes great skill to shape the 10lb (5kg) mass of curds into a uniform ball without squeezing out too much whey. Young Jack is a pale The long soaking in ivory color, and very mild, brine creates a thin, smooth, and rubbery with barely formed rind, which may be waxed. small irregular holes. usa a whole Young Monterey Jack. 287 a Young Jack, halved

Hartwell Hoja Santa Hooligan THE AMERICAS Marisa Mauro and Princess MacLean Paula Lambert has been making Hooligan, a washed-rind basket-molded founded Ploughgate Creamery in 2008, mozzarella at her creamery near Dallas cheese, is made by Mark gillman, school after training with many great for more than 20 years and has teacher turned cheesemaker, who is a cheesemakers in Vermont. They have developed an exciting range of Italian- regular at new york’s Union Square climbed the learning curve quickly, inspired cheeses. This is a fresh cheese farmers’ market. Cato Corner keeps its having successfully produced several similar to a French Banon, but wrapped own herd of about 40 hormone- and excellent soft cow’s, ewe’s, and blended in the Mexican hoja santa leaf. antibiotic-free jersey cows. milk cheeses. TASTIng noTES A fresh goat’s milk cheese, TASTIng noTES Cato Corner’s best-known TASTIng noTES This traditional Brie-style it has a very fine curd that feels light and most pungent cheese, the aroma is cheese has an exceptionally well- and clean in the mouth. what makes it intense and slightly yeasty, the texture developed rind, perfectly balanced in unique from other fresh chèvre is the firm but moist, with a slight grittiness texture and flavor with the paste, natural woody sassafras flavor that from the rind, and it melts on the which is sweet and full, but not heavy. comes off the leaf . palate, with a creamy sweet finish. How To Enjoy Hartwell is sturdy enough How To Enjoy Delicious on toast, but, to How To Enjoy Excellent melted on toast to be served warm, drizzled with honey really bring out the flavor of the hoja with a little tomato or on its own with and sprinkled with walnuts. santa, try this with some Chardonnay. a good-quality Belgian ale. 288 USA Craftsbury Common, Vermont USA Dallas, Texas USA Colchester, Connecticut Age 30 days Age 4 weeks Age 60 days Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), drum Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), wheel Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Soft white Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft Producer Ploughgate Creamery Producer Mozzarella Company Producer Cato Corner Farm

Hubbardston Blue Kunik Larzac Now operated by the Kilmoyers, Nettle Meadow is currently home to Along the Touchet River in southwest USA westfield Farm has been producing more than 100 goats, in addition to a washington State’s walla walla Valley high-quality goat’s milk cheeses in all multitude of other farm animals that lies the home of the first farmstead shapes, sizes, and types since 1971. have been rescued or retired over the ewe’s milk dairy using recipes based on Hubbardston is a surface-ripened blue years. This cheese is an unusual cheeses from southern France. Larzac cheese; the bright blue mold grows on triple-cream blend of goat’s milk and has an attractive thin layer of fine the outside rather than internally, but cream from the farm’s Jersey cows. wood ash through the center. as it ages the blue is overlaid with a TASTiNg NoTeS A remarkably sweet, TASTiNg NoTeS each batch is handmade distinctive gunmetal gray rind. honeylike cheese that has a mouthfeel to achieve a delicate soft texture, then TASTiNg NoTeS Very soft and creamy, ranging from custard when fresh to cellared for a month to complete the sometimes runny, it is not particularly butter if the cheese has dried a bit. aging that highlights the fresh sweet pungent, with mushroom-like flavors How To eNJoy Kunik is perfectly suited goat milk flavors in each cheese. and a mild blue finish. to very dark breads such as rye, where How To eNJoy Larzac is perfect sliced How To eNJoy A very approachable blue, the sweetness of the cheese will really over fresh butterleaf greens, roasted it works well with whole grain crackers, shine and cry out for an accompanying golden beets, and olive oil, and paired fresh figs, and a sweet white wine. glass of Champagne. with a crisp Pilsner beer. USA Hubbardston, Massachusetts USA Warrensburg, New York USA Dayton, Washington 289 Age 30–40 days Age 2–4 weeks Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 225g (8oz), truncated Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) cylinder Milk Goat Milk Goat with cow’s milk cream Size D. 4in (10cm), base, 2in (5cm), top, Classification Blue Classification Soft white H. 3in (7.5cm) Producer Westfield Farm Producer Nettle Meadow Goat Farm Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh

Matos St. George Maytag Blue Menuet This is made to honor the island of Certainly one of the most famous and Steve and Karen Getz began producing São Jorge in the Azores, from where oldest original American cheeses yet, cheese in 2006, using organic milk from Mary and George Matos originally despite high demand, it is still produced a herd of about 20 Jersey and Guernsey come. The Matos family now makes its by hand as it was when it was first cows. Their raw milk cheeses are all Portuguese-style farmstead cheese in made in 1941. Although the cheese is handmade using fresh milk piped Santa Rosa, California. cave-aged, it always remains bleach directly from the milking parlor into TASTInG noTES A perfect balance of white in appearance. their cheese vats. creamy dense and rich flavors, with a THE AMERICAS firm Cheddar-like texture that offers TASTInG noTES A blur similar to Roquefort TASTInG noTES Menuet captures the hints of earthy meadow, enhanced over but made with cow’s milk, Maytag has essence of a traditional tome. while the time with crunchy crystals that round an enigmatic flavor. Initially creamy nose is musty, the flavor is salty and out the full flavor of the Jersey cream. and steely blue, it yields to a lemon- meaty, with an interesting vegetable How To EnJoy A marvelous choice for tartlike sweet-sourness on the finish. brothlike finish. macaroni and cheese with sun-dried tomatoes and olive oil, complemented How To EnJoy In addition to service on How To EnJoy This cheese’s unusually by a glass of Barbera. the cheeseboard, this sturdy cheese is soothing appeal should be reflected perfect for salads, melted on fillet steak, in any accompaniment. Try it with or even baked into fruit-based desserts. crackers and tea. 290 USA Santa Rosa, California USA Newton, Iowa USA Bridport, Vermont Age 3–6 months Age 4 months Age 4 weeks to 3 months Weight and Shape 9–16lb (4.1–7.3kg), Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), drum Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), drum wheel Size: D. 7in (18cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size Various Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Producer Maytag Dairy Farms Producer Dancing Cow Farm Producer Matos St. George

Mezzo Secco Mona Monet Mezzo Secco is not as hard or dry as The cooperative began operating in Decorated with fresh marigold, borage, USA Monterey jack, but firmer than a 1997 to help small sheep dairy farms and viola flowers, the French chèvre- young, soft jack. it was first created in better negotiate the sometimes highly style Monet produced by Dee Harley is the 1920s, in the days before the advent complex regulations involved with a true artist’s palate reflecting the of refrigeration, when perishable foods getting their milk to cheese plants. Now beautiful gardens that surround this were stored in “ice boxes,” and cheese encompassing 15 dairies, it produces a coastal California dairy. had to fend for itself. few products under its own label. TASTiNg NoTeS This fresh and clean TASTiNg NoTeS Mezzo Secco’s supple, TASTiNg NoTeS it has a very fine slightly chèvre’s soft, smooth texture is the dense golden interior has a rich and grainy texture in the mouth and a very result of the gentle handling of the nutty full flavor, enhanced by a black sweet, salty, and full flavor, but its fresh goat’s milk, and has hints of pepper and vegetable oil coating. strongest feature is the length, often spring grass flavor year-round. How To eNjoy This is always a great lasting minutes on the side of the How To eNjoy with its floral decoration, choice for picnics, or slice and serve it tongue and inside the cheeks. it makes a stunning centerpiece for a over grilled lamb burgers with a glass How To eNjoy Mona is well suited to cheeseboard, or serve with a garden- of Californian Pinot Noir. grating over pasta. An American Pinot fresh salad and a crisp Pinot grigio. Noir makes a good wine match. USA Sonoma, California USA River Falls, Wisconsin USA Pescadero, California 291 Age 4–6 months Age 6 months Age 1–3 weeks Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4.1–5kg), Weight and Shape 12lb (5.4kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), ball wheel Size D. 14in (35.5cm), 5in (12cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 11in (28cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Ewe and cow Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Fresh Classification Hard Producer Wisconsin Sheep Dairy Producer Harley Farms Goat Dairy Producer Vella Cheese Company Cooperative

MouCo ColoRouge Mt. Tam Mountain Top Bleu This particular cheesemaker enjoys named after Mt. Tamalpais, a small Firefly Farms originally kept its own the changing of the seasons. The flavors mountain located on the Marin County herd of goats, but ultimately decided to within the cheese change as it ages coast of northern California, just buy milk from a local Amish cooperative and evolves. ColoRouge is rubbed north of San Francisco Bay, Cowgirl in Pennsylvania, so that it could focus with a brine solution to create the Creamery’s signature triple-cream exclusively on cheese production. It red-orange rind with its distinctive cheese is made with organic cow’s milk make several varieties, but this small haze of white mold. from the Straus Family Dairy. blue is particularly unusual. TASTIng noTES The relatively uncommon THE AMERICAS TASTIng noTES Hand-ladled to create a TASTIng noTES Under the thick, white pyramid shape hints at Mountain Top soft and creamy texture beneath the bloomy rind, Mt. Tam is creamy and Bleu’s unique flavor. while subtle, the smear rind, it has mild buttery dense in texture, with a rich flavor and blue is well balanced against grassy, overtones that develop into complex a pleasant fruity finish. bright, and enjoyably goaty flavors. Its and spicy notes. How To Enjoy Mt. Tam goes extremely texture is soft and velvety. How To Enjoy Spread ColoRouge over well with a golden Pilsner or a Fumé How To Enjoy The cheesemaker suggests crispy crackers, and serve with a rich Blanc, dried apricots, and fresh-baked serving this with poached figs. A white tawny port and halved fresh red and crunchy Pugliese bread. Port would go well on the side. green grapes. 292 USA Fort Collins, Colorado USA Point Reyes, California USA Bittinger, Maryland Age 3–8 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 5 weeks Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 2oz (60g), round Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), pyramid Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm) , H. 3in (7.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Classification Blue Producer MouCo Cheese Company Producer Cowgirl Creamery Producer FireFly Farms

Oakdale Cheese O’Cooch Old Kentucky Tome Company Gouda Hidden Springs, located in a part of A great cheese from Capriole, founded Dutch-born Walter and Lenneke Bulk Wisconsin known as the Driftless Area, by judy and Larry Schadd, it is based re-create the cheeses of their homeland, operates in close cooperation with its on the mountain tommes of Europe, but gouda and Edam, in central California, surrounding Amish neighbors, utilizing has a thinner rind dusted with a fine nestled between almond orchards and traditional sustainable methods. The powdery white mold. The quality of the strawberry fields. it is available plain high-quality milk is sourced from a herd cheeses exhibit the great care with or flavored, including peppercorns, of East Friesian and Lacaune sheep that which the Schadds keep their herd of garlic, mustard, or jalapeño peppers. thrive in this terrain. more than 400 goats. TASTing noTES Aged to perfection for TASTing noTES This very firm-textured TASTing noTES its pure white, smooth USA about 10 weeks, the cheese has flavors cheese is crumbly and slightly grainy texture feels light on the palate, and it that share elements of butterscotch on the palate, with a fat, sweet, and has a slightly goaty nose, with a hint of and toasted almonds. very nutty flavor. it has a delightful toasted walnut on the finish. HoW To Enjoy Create a golden grilled aroma of sheep on open pasture. HoW To Enjoy Robust enough to stand up sandwich on French bread with a slice HoW To Enjoy o’Cooch is delicious with to many flavors, but judy suggests a of country ham; serve with Sangiovese honey and almonds, or on its own with yellow tomato and ginger preserve. and fresh or dried fruit. a good red Burgundy. Pair with a Pinot noir or other soft red. USA Oakdale, California USA Westby, Wisconsin USA Greenville, Indiana 293 Age 2–4 months Age 4 months Age 4–8 months Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4.1–5kg), Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), wheel Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), drum boulder Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 7.5in (3cm) Milk Ewe Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Soft white Classification Hard Producer Hidden Springs Creamery Producer Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheeses Producer Oakdale Cheese Company

the americas 294 ROGUE RIVER BLUE Brine-soaked grape leaves surround the young cheese so that when it ripens, the gray, blue, and white molds that develop on the outside of the cheese intermingle between the layers of leaves and the rind. (see p296).

Pecan Chèvre Le Petit Chèvre Bleu Pleasant Ridge USA Reserve Sweet grass Dairy in southern georgia One of the oldest continuously produces a variety of cow’s and goat’s producing cheese companies in the To demonstrate the superior quality of milk cheeses on its farm. Some cheeses Unites States, Marin French, located their milk, the gingrich and Patenaude are traditional in style, but this one, within California’s Sonoma County, families worked together to develop with the addition of world-famous shows a strong French influence in this handmade Alpine-style cheese. it georgia pecans, is unique. each of its cheeses. is produced only during peak pasture TASTing nOTeS Coated in ground pecans, TASTing nOTeS Aged for 30 days, this season from spring to fall, and the cows which give it a delicious crunchy nut triple-cream Brie-style cheese strikes are moved into fresh pasture daily to taste and texture, the cheese itself is a good balance between rich flavors and graze naturally. creamy and fairly strong, with a tart delicate fine blue veining. it has a bite to the rind. creamy texture, with a subtle, mild, TASTing nOTeS Daily washing imparts a HOw TO enjOy This is a cheese that is at white pepper spicy taste. strong aroma. The flavor ranges from its best when served younger, rather HOw TO enjOy Spread on buttered toast very fruity and sweet when young, to than older. The cheesemaker suggests in the morning, and savor with apricot savory and slightly sour as it matures. serving with fragrant fresh peaches preserves and fresh pear juice, or pair when they are in season. with a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. HOw TO enjOy A great melting cheese, it can be used like gruyère in fondue or to make an excellent French onion soup. USA Thomasville, Georgia USA Petaluma, California USA Dodgeville, Wisconsin 295 Age 3 weeks Age 30 days or more Age 8–12 months Weight and Shape 6oz (175g), pyramid Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), round Weight and Shape 12lb (5.4kg), wheel Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 2½in (5.5cm), H. 4in (1¾cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Classification Soft white Classification Hard Producer Sweet Grass Dairy Producer Marin French Cheese Company Producer Uplands Cheese Company

Pondhopper Queso de Mano Rogue River Blue THE AMERICAS Tumalo Farms combines the traditional Cheesemaker jim Schott built his Rogue Creamery, founded in the 1930s methods of Dutch and Italian cheese business from the ground up, by one of America’s great cheesemakers cheesemaking to produce its unique starting in 1989. Despite encountering Thomas Vella, continues to enjoy great goat’s milk cheeses in the Cascade many hurdles along the way, the farm success. Under the management of Mountain Range. now produces several pasteurized and David gremmels, in 2008 Rogue River TASTIng noTES The pale yellow-white raw award-winning cheeses. Queso de became the first American raw-milk interior has a few tiny eyes and Mano was its first raw milk cheese. cheeses to be certified for export. smooth, creamy supple feel, with a TASTIng noTES Queso de Mano is very TASTIng noTES wrapped in grape leaves hoppy taste balanced with a nutty tang firm and slightly grainy on the palate. and soaked in pear brandy, it has great from the goat’s milk. It is not a salty cheese, but medium dry, intensity and depth of flavor. Firm, How To Enjoy Pondhopper is a natural with a robust toasty hazelnut flavor yet moist and smooth in the mouth, it partner for a nutty ale accompanied by and spicy finish. is less salty than many blues, and is yeasty bread, especially one with dried How To Enjoy Pairings for this cheese creamy and sweet with a spicy finish. cherries and walnuts. include toasted almonds or cherries. How To Enjoy Pair with dessert wines The suggested pairing with Beaujolais and pears or use in desserts such as works very, very well. poached pears or calvados soufflé. 296 USA Bend, Oregon USA Longmont, Colorado Region Central Point Oregon Age 2–12 weeks Age 4–6 months Age 6–8 months Weight and Shape 9lb (4.1kg), wheel Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), drum Weight and Shape 5lb (2.25kg), drum Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Hard Classification Blue Producer Tumalo Farms Producer Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy Producer Rogue Creamery

Rosemary’s Waltz R&R Cheddar St. Jorge Silvery Moon Creamery was founded in Founded in the 1700s, Smiling Hill The Fagundes family makes cheeses USA 2003 by jennifer Betencourt who, after Farm is ancient by American standards. based on those from the Azores, a group studying cheesemaking at Cornell, It keeps a herd of Holsteins grazing on of small islands west of Portugal, where formed a partnership with Smiling Hill pastures free of chemical fertilizer and Isabel Fagundes made cheese in the Farm. Although located in a relatively pesticides. Silvery Moon Creamery late 1800s. St. jorge, the family’s first, commercial area of Maine, the farm partnered with Smiling Hill in 2003, was released in 2000 and, like all their still works the same pristine pastures adding artisan cheese production to its cheese, is made only with morning milk that have remained in the hands of the existing diary business. from their farm. same family since the 1700s. TASTIng noTeS Mild but full of interesting TASTIng noTeS with a texture between TASTIng noTeS Very fresh and clean with subtlety, it has a chewy texture and Cheddar and gouda, this raw milk a crumbly texture, it picks up the tight grain; the flavor is sweet and full. cheese is long in flavor and slow to flavors of the rosemary and juniper on Rather than salty or savory on the mature. After the initial sharp bite, it the rind without being overpowered. finish, it has an earthy minerality. mellows to a creamy, sweet-fruity tang. How To enjoy Its mildness makes it a How To enjoy The texture and age make How To enjoy An excellent cheese for good base for numerous recipes. Try it it ideal for melting in sandwiches, or grating, it also makes a tasty snack shaved over baked sweet potato slices. enjoy on its own with a strong lager. with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. USA Westbrook, Maine USA Westbrook, Maine USA Hanford, California 297 Age 1 month Age 6 months minimum Age Up to 3 years Weight and Shape 3lb (1.35kg), wheel Weight and Shape 17lb (7.7kg), drum Weight and Shape 6–8lb (2.7–3.6kg), Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 4in (10cm) wheel Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 4in (10cm) Classification Fresh Classification Hard Milk Cow Producer Silvery Moon Creamery Producer Silvery Moon Creamery Classification Hard Producer Fagundes Old World Cheese

Sally Jackson San Juaquin Gold Seastack the americas this semi-soft cheese is produced Named after the san Juaquin Valley in the rock formations covering the by one of the only american california, this american original is coastal lines of the Pacific Northwest cheesemakers that hand-makes inspired by swiss-mountain cheeses. are the inspiration for the cheeses cheese over a wood-fired stove. this it is produced with the milk of holstein produced at the mt. townsend traditional method gives the cheese Farmstead cows, in keeping with the creamery in washington. its unique flavor and texture. cheesemaker’s concept of creating tastiNg Notes the coating of vegetable tastiNg Notes wrapped in chestnut cheese in the european tradition. ash and sea salt prior to ripening is the leaves and aged for 2–4 months, the tastiNg Notes it is aged for 16 to key to the balance of flavors in this soft golden-cream color that the paste gains 24 months to create a full-flavored white cheese. it is a one-of-a-kind from the guernsey milk welcomes you cheese with a buttery golden color cheese, with a silky texture and earthy to enjoy its floral essence with hints of and a crumbly texture. as it ages, the flavors that become piquant as it ages. cream on the palate. complex flavors of nuts and grass arise how to eNJoy a perfect picnic and hiking how to eNJoy each cheese deserves to the palate. cheese served with a fresh, crusty a toast with champagne or a fruity how to eNJoy grate it into a creamy baguette, Viognier, and dried fruit. ale to make a fine finish to a meal pasta dish and serve with a full-bodied equally, it makes a delicious finale to with friends. san Juaquin syrah. a fine meal with friends. 298 USA Oroville, Washington USA Modesto, California USA Port Townsend, Washington Age 2–4 months Age 16–24 months Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), wheel Weight and Shape 30lb (13.6kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Size Various Size Various Size Various Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard Classification Soft white Producer Sally Jackson Cheeses Producer Farmstead Cheese Producer Mt. Townsend Creamery