The World Cheese Book

Chabichou du Poitou Chaource AOC Charolais AOC Said to have been created by the monks This fermier cheese made from goat’s france This natural-rinded cheese comes from of Pontigny, the name of this soft milk hails from the Bourgogne region. the Loire, home to the majority of white-rinded cheese comes from the a distinctive-looking cheese, charolais french goat’s cheeses. It has been town that is the center of that region. It is shaped like a small barrel and often protected by the aOc label since 1990, was originally sold fresh or demi-sec, displays a characteristic bluish rind. and its production can be fermier, but now it is preferred as a more mature TaSTInG nOTeS charolais has a firm cooperative, or industrial. cheese. aOc protected since 1970. and compact paste and a natural rind. TaSTInG nOTeS Its white, crusty, and faintly sour, it holds a distinct flavor of TaSTInG nOTeS The thin, white rind, downy rind becomes pigmented with milk and almonds. with its yellow and blue mold, conceals brown as it ages. It has a creamy HOW TO enJOY Serve with chestnuts a cheese with a distinct aroma and texture and a milky, fruity flavor with a and walnuts or a loaf of sourdough a pronounced to sharp flavor, compared faint aroma of mushrooms, becoming bread. fruity wines, such as fleurie, to other goat’s cheeses. sharper and salty as it matures. are the most appropriate for drinking HOW TO enJOY Team it with fruity white alongside this cheese. HOW TO enJOY Delicious with the lively, wines of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, chablis, fruity red wines of the neuville-de- and Irancy, or fruity reds and rosés. Poitou, Dissay, and Saint-martin-la- rivière regions. FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Saligny, Bourgogne FRANCE Bourgogne 49 Age 3 weeks Age 2 weeks–2 months Age 2–6 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), small Weight and Shape 4oz (120g), barrel Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 21⁄2in (5cm) cylinder Size D. 2in (4.5cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Milk Goat Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Producer Various Classification Soft white Producer Various Producer Lincet

France 50 PERSILLE DE TIGNES The gradual development of fine gray, brown, and white molds are like an intricately woven spider web, and are actively encouraged by the cheesemaker because they contribute to the breakdown of the curd. (See p76).

Chevrotin des Aravis Chevrotin des Bauges Ch’ti Roux france AOC AOC The deep tangerine-orange color of this One of the few washed-rind goat This fermier cheese is produced in the cheese is the result of roucous or cheeses, chevrotin des aravis is named mountain region of Savoie, known for annatto being added to the milk, and after the type of milk used and the its magnificent scenery and colorful, the rind being washed with a mix of Vallée des aravis where it is made. It is diverse natural pastures. This area is dark beer and annatto. ch’ti roux is similar in appearance and texture to home to many of france’s best-loved one of many cheeses made by the reblochon; a moist, yellowish-orange cheeses, including reblochon, which family of Bernard-Wierre effroy in the rind is covered with a fine white mold. chevrotin resembles except that it is nord-Pas-de-calais, from its own cows. It was granted an aOc in 2002 as the made with goat’s milk. TaSTInG nOTeS This firm-textured 40th member. cheese has quite a powerful, spicy, TaSTInG nOTeS a thick, rustic rind covers and salty flavor with a long, slightly TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese has a mild, a smooth, supple, melting paste with peppery finish. slightly goaty flavor. The fine-textured small irregular eyes. The creamy, sweet HOW TO enJOY a dark beer or a wine from paste melts slightly at the edges. flavor has a hint of goat. Bourgogne, such as côte de Baune or Beaujolais, will complement this HOW TO enJOY It is best paired with a HOW TO enJOY Pair this cheese with flavorsome cheese. sharp-tasting red wine, such as a a fruity, dry white Savoie wine, such as Mondeuse or chignin-Bergeron. the roussette. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais 51 Age 2 months Age 21 days Age 4 months Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), brick Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 2in (4cm) Size D. 31⁄2–41⁄2in (9–11.5cm), Size L. 41⁄2in (11cm), W. 1in (2.5cm), H. 2in Milk Goat H. 11⁄2in (4cm) (4.5cm) Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Milk Cow Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Saint Godeleine Farm (M. Bernard)

France Clochette Cœur de Neufchâtel Cœur de Touraine AOC This name of this goat’s cheese reflects The Loire is famous not only for its its dramatic-looking shape—clochette neufchâtel is a cow’s milk cheese that great chateaux, but also for its goat’s translates as “little bell”. It is produced is produced in Haute-normandie, and cheeses. This heart-shaped cheese in the Poitou-charentes region, which has benefited from the aOc label since (reflecting its name—the “heart” of is also home to another well-known 1969. as its name suggests, this version Touraine) with its ash-covered rind is goat’s cheese, chabichou. clochette has is heart-shaped, but it can also be very popular. a dry and crusty rind of natural mold, found as a small cylinder or brick, TaSTInG nOTeS Like all traditional Loire but a firm and tender paste. when it is simply called neufchâtel. goat’s cheese, the inside is a bit sticky TaSTInG nOTeS The pleasant aroma of on the palate and the rind is edible— dried hay and goats derives from its TaSTInG nOTeS The white rind is dry, including the mold, which is very mold and from the cellar in which it velvety, and crumbly with a savory. The overall taste is mild; a little was ripened. It has a smooth texture mushroomy aroma. The paste is firm salty yet mouth-watering. and a warm, powerful flavor. but slightly grainy, with a subtle milk HOw TO enjOy coeur de Touraine is HOw TO enjOy eat it warm with olives or taste and salty tang. a real delight with nut bread or raisin nuts and serve alongside full-bodied bread and a white wine, such as Burgundy wines. HOw TO enjOy Its flavor works well with a Mont Louis. good crusty breads; locals like to melt it on warm bread and eat it for breakfast. FRANCE Roullet-Saint-Estéphe, FRANCE Haute-Normandie FRANCE Centre Poitou-Charentes Age 8–10 weeks Age 3 weeks at least Age 2–3 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), heart Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), heart Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), bell Size L. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size W. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Cow Milk Goat 52 Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 4in (10cm) Classification Soft white Classification Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Various Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Producer GAEC Jouseaume

Coulommiers Crayeux de Roncq Crémeux du Puy a more petite member of the Brie The farmer and cheesemaker This soft cheese is injected with blue france family, coulommiers is produced in Marie-Therese couvreur teamed up mould and is produced in the auvergne the Ile-de-france region, near Paris. with cheese affineur Philippe Olivier to region, which is renowned for its a fermier or industrially-produced create this cheese, which is named excellent cheeses. It has a thick blue cheese, it has a downy white rind that crayeux for its chalky center. Washed rind, which is overlaid by a delicate is dotted with reddish ferments and regularly with salt water and beer, its layer of white mold. a supple texture. distinct aroma belies a mild and TaSTInG nOTeS It has a creamy, delicate TaSTInG nOTeS coulommiers has a rather creamy taste under an orange-colored taste, with a hint of mushrooms and pronounced tang and leaves a long crust. Produced in very small volume, it flavors of the cave in which it was left aftertaste. The pale yellow paste is is rarely seen outside the region. to mature. smooth and melts in the mouth. TaSTInG nOTeS It has a subtle, nutty HOW TO enjOy extremely flavorsome, HOW TO enjOy Delicious eaten as part of flavor between sweet and acid, which with a texture not unlike reblochon, a cheeseboard at the end of the meal, or leaves a pleasing, unusual aftertaste. crémeux du Puy makes a popular for lunch. It is best served with lively HOW TO enjOy The best match for this addition to any cheeseboard. Serve this and fruity red wines, such as a cheese is a structured red wine, such as delicious cheese with some fresh, crusty côtes-de-Beaune. a Médoc or Graves. bread and a glass of côtes-du-rhône. FRANCE Seine-et-Marne, Ile-de-France FRANCE Roncq, Nord-Pas de Calais FRANCE Haute-Loire, Auvergne 53 Age 4–8weeks Age 2 months Age 6–8 weeks Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round Weight and Shape 15oz (425g), square Weight and Shape 13⁄4oz (50g), disc Size D. 5in (12cm), H 1in (2.5cm) Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 2in Size D. 3in (8cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow (4.5cm) Milk Cow Classification Soft white Milk Cow Classification Blue Producer Nugier, Dongé dairies Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Marie-Therese Couvreur

France Crottin de Chavignol Curé Nantais Dauphin AOC this cheese is believed to have been It is said that when Louis XIV was It has an unfortunate name because introduced to the Pays de la Loire travelling through the Hainaut (in crottin literally means horse dung, but region by a Vendéen monk who was modern Belgium) with the Dauphin, this is actually a reference to the shape enduring the food shortage of the his son and heir, he liked this cheese so and color of this cheese when at full French revolution. now it is produced much that he asked local cheesemakers maturity. However, most are sold much by a dairy that respects the traditional to name the cheese in his son’s honor. younger when the rind is pale brown- methods of making it. It is also known this distinctive cheese’s washed, white. aOc protected since 1976. as Fromage du Pays nantais dit reddish rind encases a semi-soft paste. du curé. tastIng nOtes a member of the tastIng nOtes Known for its piquant tastIng nOtes a strong-tasting cheese Maroilles family, this is a strong, spicy, taste, it can be eaten at various stages. with a soft and slightly elastic golden and aromatic cheese flavored with When young, it is tender in texture, paste, featuring a few small holes. tarragon, parsley, pepper, and cloves. becoming harder, dry, crumbly, and HOW tO enJOY It tastes delicious served HOW tO enJOY this full-flavored cheese sharp as it ages. with crusty bread and onion relish. makes an interesting addition to any accompany it with a fruity Muscadet, cheeseboard and is best paired with HOW tO enJOY Best paired with the most such as a Melon Blanc. a robust wine, such as côtes-du-rhône. vigorous full-bodied wines to enjoy the flavor of both wine and cheese. FRANCE Centre FRANCE Pays de la Loire FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais Age 1 month Age 2–3 months Age Best around 2 months Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), round Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), dolphin Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size L. 5in (12.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) Weight and Shape 2oz (60g), small drum Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Flavor-added 54 Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 3⁄4in (2cm) Producer Curé Nantais dairy Producer Various Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Producer Various

Deauville Délice des Cabasses Dôme de Vézelay This modern french cheese combines The term délice, meaning “delight”, will This is a raw-milk fermier cheese that france attributes from two of normandie’s give you a clue to the qualities of this is produced in very small volume and most famous washed-rind cheeses: very fresh, soft ewe’s milk cheese made therefore rarely found outside the Pont l’evêque and Livarot. In spite of in the Pyrénées. It is a legitimate name Yonne region. It is distinctive in its that, Deauville also has its own unique for such an enticing cheese. unusual shape, which is, as indicated character and style. TaSTInG nOTeS With a pleasing yet by its name, that of a dome. TaSTInG nOTeS The rich and flowery unobtrusively mild taste, Délice des TaSTInG nOTeS Vézelay has a natural qualities of the cows’ grazing pastures cabasses is fresh, delicate, and has a rind and a fine, mellow paste. It has comes through in the flavor of this subtle sweetness. It is best enjoyed in a subtle flavor that is later echoed by a slightly milky semi-soft cheese, which the spring or summer months. spicier aftertaste. has a sticky and supple texture. HOW TO enJOY Some apple marmalade HOW TO enJOY This cheese can find a HOW TO enJOY This cheese combines well and a glass of fresh cider make the place in any meal—from fruity to with sweet flavors such as honey or fig perfect accompaniments to this salty—and is delicious served with a jam and with fruity and aromatic white tasty cheese. fresh and simple-tasting light wine. wines such as a chablis, a Mâcon blanc or a Meursault. FRANCE Normandie FRANCE Aveyron, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Bourgogne (Yonne) 55 Age 7 weeks Age 2 weeks Age 10 days at least Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 3oz (85g), round Weight and Shape 4oz (120g), dome Size D. 5in (12cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (4.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Ewe Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Classification Fresh Producer Fromagerie Thebault Producer M. Dombres Producer Various

Comté AOC A ClOser lOOk This ancient french cheese, also known as Gruyere de comté, has Local affineurs take the young cheeses been made in small village-based cooperative dairies, or fruitière, for from the frutière and, with a love of over eight centuries. This system has created a sense of solidarity their craft and centuries of knowledge, and pride, and has preserved the traditions and the small- coax the very best from each cheese. scale production techniques that have helped ensure comté continues to be one of france’s most popular cheeses. It takes about 120 gallons (530 liters) native breeds of cow that must be rind comté is recognized of milk to make just one 80lb (35kg) used: the native Montbéliarde cow, by its thin, beige rind. comté wheel, the daily yield of 30 known for its sweet milk, makes up france cows. On average, each fruitière has around 95 percent of the herds, the 19 members or local dairy farms, rest are french Simmental cows. located within an eight-mile radius. During spring, the meadows, a The method, and the area in which blaze of colorful flowers, echo with comté is made, has not changed for the clanging bells as the cows return centuries, and is now defined by from winter in the valleys. During appellation d’Origine contrôlée the winter, the cows are fed on a diet (aOc) regulations as the rugged of hay cut from the summer pastures. mountains and wide plateaux of the Massif du Jura, a region which spans TAsTing nOTes each fruitière the Jura, the Doubs (both of which has its own distinct profile that are in the franche-comté), and the reflects the soil, climate, and flora ain (in the rhône-alpes). where the cows graze—from melted butter, milk chocolate, It is the richness and diversity of hazelnuts, and fudge to aromas its mountain pastures and markedly of toast, plum jam, leather, different seasons that give comté its pepper, and dark chocolate, unique flavor along with the two others can be more reminiscent of butterscotch and hazelnuts and even sweet oranges. 56 HOw TO enjOy The french enjoy comté at virtually any The milk of the Montbéliarde cow is known for time of day. as it melts well, it can its sweetness. be found in numerous french dishes from quiches, soups, and gratins FRANCE Franche-Comté, and Rhône-Alpes to fondue, sauces, and salads. Age 4–18 months Its creamy texture and fruity Weight and Shape 77–88lb (35–40kg), tang marries well with fish and wheel white meat and the local Jura Size D. 24–28in (60–70cm), H. 4in (10cm) wines or chardonnay, chenin Milk Cow Blanc, or Viognier. Classification Hard Producer Various

grading When the affinage is complete, each batch is graded out of 20 based on its taste, texture, and appearance. cheeses with a grading of at least 15 get a green comté extra label; those between 12 and 14 are awarded a brown label reading comté; but those with a rating below 12 do not qualify for the aOc comté label. The affinage The affineur must decide The texture is firm, dry, on the time and conditions that suit the potential slightly grainy, and more of each wheel. regular turning, brushing, and dense than Cheddar. rubbing with salty brine is vital to the process. Interior france 57 exterior The green “extra” label indicates a score by the grader of at least 15 out of 20.

Embruns aux Algues Emmental de Savoie Feuille de Dreux France This cheese will certainly impress Production of this now-popular hard This very distinctive, ancient artisan dinner guests. embruns aux algues cheese began in France in the 19th cheese was historically eaten by is made in the same way as curé century, thanks to the imagination workers in the fields as a snack and is nantais, but it is rounder in shape and of german-swiss cheesemakers. it is still enjoyed by local farmers today. The the curd is mixed with seaweed. This a distinctive-looking cheese, with decorative addition of a chestnut leaf encourages the rind to develop a coral, a firm, ivory to pale paste punctuated on the top also has a practical pink-orange color and sticky texture. with holes of about 1⁄2–1in (1.5–3cm). purpose—it stops the cheeses sticking TasTing noTes a taste sensation, the TasTing noTes emmental has a smooth to each other when stacked. special seaweed gives this cheese texture and a mild, pleasant flavor—it TasTing noTes This soft white cheese has a salty and powerful flavor and a is fruity but also has a sweet and a fruity, mushroomy flavor, and the distinctive aroma of the sea. slightly nutty taste. faint smell of the chestnut leaf mingles HoW To enJoY it is delicious eaten with HoW To enJoY This popular choice for with a pleasant, moldy aroma. fresh bread and onion relish. Team any cheeseboard can also be grated into HoW To enJoY excellent on a formal it with a fruity Muscadet, such as recipes or simply served in chunks as a cheeseboard or as a simple snack with a Melon Blanc. canapé. it goes well with all light and crackers or bread. serve with a fruity, fruity wines. lively red wine, such as a chinon. FRANCE Pays de la Loire FRANCE Savoie, Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Center Age 6 months Age Around 2 months Age 1 month Weight and Shape 176lb–220lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round (80–99kg), wheel Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), round Size Various, D. 34in (87cm), H. 10in (25cm) Milk Cow (pictured) Classification Soft white 58 Size D. 4in (8.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) Milk Cow Producer Various Milk Cow Classification Hard Producer Various Classification Flavor-added Producer Curé Nantais dairy

Figuette Fium’Orbu Fleur du Maquis This small and charming fig-shaped The sticky-rinded artisanal cheese covered with herbs and chilies, this france goat’s cheese from the Pyrénées is fium’Orbu is named after a small unusual artisan cheese is called the sometimes covered with dried grasses, river in a little-known unspoilt part of “flower of the maquis”—the maquis ash, or, as shown here, paprika in order corse. as with other cheeses made being the corsican landscape. not only to make it even more decorative and on this mountainous Mediterranean does it look better than other cheeses, appealing to the tastebuds. island, its complex flavors and unique it also smells pretty good. it is also TasTing nOTes figuette is sweet and has qualities can be partially attributed known as Brindamour. a lactic flavour. The delicious aromas to the warm climate, the robust local TasTing nOTes The combination of herbs come from the various coatings that it breeds and the wild, diverse grazing. and spicy chilies does not overwhelm is given. TasTing nOTes soft, tender, and buttery, the flavor, thanks to the proportions HOW TO enJOY eat it with a little honey the complex herbaceous flavors being cleverly thought out; the cheese to enhance its sweetness and tone originate from the ewe’s fragrant itself is quite tender, and the overall down its goaty flavor. Bergerac grazing. Washing endows this semi-soft taste is rather honeyed. wines are light and therefore most cheese with a lingering meaty tang. HOW TO enJOY This is a full-flavored appropriate with this cheese. HOW TO enJOY corsicans eat it with fig cheese, so serve it alone, at the end of jam accompanied by a fruity red wine. a meal, with a local red like cap corse. FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Corse FRANCE Corse 59 Age Fresh Age 8–12 weeks Age 3 months Weight and Shape 6oz (175g), fig Weight and Shape 16oz (450g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g), round Size D. 3in (8cm), H. 2in (4.5cm) Size L. 31/2in (8.5cm), W. 3in (8cm), H. 1in Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (4.5cm) Milk Goat (3cm) Milk Ewe Classification Fresh Milk Ewe Classification Aged fresh Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various

Forme d’Antoine Fouchtra Fougerus France This recently created, semi-soft cow’s The rind is similar to that of cantal an artisan cheese that was originally milk cheese is produced in the nord and St. nectaire, and is dusted with made for family consumption, Fougerus Pas-de-calais region. It is formed into a colorful mix of white, red, and has been commercially produced since an unusual but attractive dome shape, sulphur-yellow molds. It has a subtle, the beginning of the 20th century. In and encased in an orange crusty rind mild taste and its flavor reflects the size it is slightly bigger than its Brie which is formed over six weeks through flora found in the volcanic mountains relative, coulommier. the process of regular washings. where it is produced. It is also made TaSTInG nOTeS The fern leaves used to TaSTInG nOTeS It has quite a strong using cow’s milk. decorate the cheese give it a “forest” flavor balanced with a milky and spicy TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese has a aroma, and the rind has a moldy, taste. The semi-soft paste has a surprisingly soft and silky texture. The mushroomy scent. Soft in texture, it milky aroma. distinctive and memorable flavor has a melts in the mouth with a rather HOW TO enJOY Pair this cheese with lingering almondy aftertaste. pronounced tang. a full-bodied wine, such as a côte de HOW TO enJOY a full-bodied, structured HOW TO enJOY This decorative cheese Beaune or Beaujolais, or with a sweet red wine, such as Saint Joseph or brightens up a cheese board. Try wine, such as Gewürztraminer. Vacqueyras, is the best match for this pairing it with a lively fruity red wine, flavorsome cheese. such as a côte de Beaune. FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Ile-de-France Age 3 months Age at its best 3–4 weeks Age 4 months Weight and Shape 13lb 4oz (6kg), wheel Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), dome Milk Goat or cow Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white 60 Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (4.5cm) Producer Various Producer Various Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Producer M. Bernard

Fourme d’Ambert AOC Fourme de Fruité du Boulonnais Montbrison AOC One of the oldest cheeses in france, recently created and already warmly this blue cheese dates from the roman fourme d’ambert and fourme de received, fruité du Boulonnais is period. The aOc was granted in 1972 Montbrison are made in their two characterized by an unusual and and since then methods of production different namesake towns, but because excellent paste and an orange crusty have been streamlined to bring it into they are very similar, they share an rind that is formed during eight weeks line with its aOc partner, fourme aOc. Fourme comes from the Latin of regular washing. de Montbrison. forma, meaning form or shape. TaSTInG nOTeS You can eat this cheese at various stages and its flavor will TaSTInG nOTeS It has quite a pronounced TaSTInG nOTeS Montbrison tends to be be anything from smooth to strong, france flavor, with some bitterness. The less creamy, slightly stronger and more depending on its age. It has a gentle texture is creamy, bold, and rich, while complex than fourme d’ambert, with and pleasant milky aroma. the aroma gives a hint of the cellar in a long, spicy finish. The pale yellow HOW TO enJOY Pair with a french “real which it is aged. interior is streaked with uneven ale” from the growing number of small HOW TO enJOY Serve with wines such as blotches and broken lines of blue. breweries springing up in nord-Pas-de- coteaux d’auvergne, côtes roannaises, HOW TO enJOY Team it with local wines calais, such as a beer from the and a full-bodied Beaujolais, or try it like coteaux d’auvergne or côtes castelain Brewery. with a sweet Sauternes or Banyuls. roannaises or a sweet wine. FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais 61 Age 3 months Age 3 months Age 4 months Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1.5kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1.5kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), cylinder Size D. 5in (12cm), L. 7in (17cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 8in (21cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 5cm (2in) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer M. Bernard

Gaperon Gour Noir Gratte-Paille France In the past,the number of these cheeses This delicious artisan cheese, made This white-rinded cheese, created in hanging in the kitchen was an from goat’s milk and sprinkled with the 1970s, is a real treat for those who indication of a farmer’s wealth and wood ash, is the product of farmers of are not put off by a high fat content. therefore his daughter’s dowry. This the auvergne who are passionate about Made with triple cream (70 percent speciality of auvergne was originally cheesemaking and their products. cream for every 3½oz/100g of cheese), made by mixing buttermilk with fresh These same cheesemakers also make the rind bears the imprint of the straw milk; buttermilk is no longer used, but gour Blanc, a variety without ash. mats on which it is ripened. it is still ripened by airing. TasTIng noTes Beneath the soft, wrinkly TasTIng noTes The triple cream gives TasTIng noTes Beneath the dry, hard rind, the taste changes according to its gratte-Paille a rich, very milky taste, rind is an elastic paste containing age: it can be very sweet or spicy, but it while the almost buttery paste has garlic and pepper, which gives it a is always full of subtle flavors and has an oily texture and sometimes pronounced flavor. since it is hung and a delicate hint of goat’s milk. a mushroomy flavor. cured by the fire, it has a smoky tang. HoW To enJoY serve gour noir with HoW To enJoY combine it with other HoW To enJoY It is a delicious cheese for a slice of simple country bread. It is foods; grate on vegetable and chicken snacking. Partner with robust, full- complemented well by a light Loire dishes and use in sauces. It is delicious bodied wines, such as côtes-du-rhône. wine, such as a chateaumeillant. served with strawberries! FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Seine-et-Marne, Île-de-France Age 1–2 months Age 2–6 weeks Age About 4 weeks Weight and Shape 121⁄2oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), oval Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), brick (350g–500g), flattened ball Size L. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) Size H. 31⁄2in (7.5cm), W. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow 62 Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 21⁄2–3in Classification Aged fresh Classification Soft white Producer La Fromagerie Corbreche Producer Rouzaire dairy (6cm–7.5cm) Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Producer Various

Laguiole AOC Langres AOC Lavort france also known as fourme de Laguiole, With its orange-coloured rind, Langres shaped like a crater as a tribute to this is a very old cheese that dates resembles epoisses de Bourgogne, the auvergne volcanoes, this ewe’s back centuries, first produced by monks while its name comes from the plateau cheese was created in the late 20th in their monastery in the aubrac of Langres in champagne, where it was century. The five bands of rush leaves mountains. Laguiole has benefited from traditionally sold. The annatto used in were originally positioned around it to the aOc label since 1961. the wash gives the rind its color. aOc prevent the cheese from collapsing as TasTing nOTes Laguiole has a firm, protected since 1991. it matured. smooth texture; a strong smell with TasTing nOTes This strong-smelling TasTing nOTes its creamy and delicate a penetrating bouquet; and a spicy tang cheese has a penetrating bouquet, paste has numerous holes and differs but a mild, milky flavor. as the cheese and it tastes a little spicy when young. in texture depending on the level of ages, it becomes more delicious. The texture changes with age, starting maturity. The finish has a subtle taste HOW TO enJOY it is excellent for snacks or out grainy and becoming very creamy, of hazelnuts. served on a cheeseboard at the end of sticky, and melt-in-the-mouth. a meal. You can serve it with all fruity HOW TO enJOY Pair it with any of the HOW TO enJOY it is excellent in a crunchy wines of Marcillac, du fel, costières full-bodied red wines of the Bourgogne salad, so much so that it is featured in du gard. region to match its strong flavor. several local salad-based specialities. FRANCE Laguiole, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Langres, Champagne Ardenne FRANCE Puy Guillaume, Auvergne 63 Age 4–6 months Age 2–3 months Age 3–6 months Weight and Shape 66–88lb (30–40kg), Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), cylinder Weight and Shape 12oz–1lb 2oz cylinder with sunken top (350–500g), drum Size D. 16in (40cm), H. 14–16in Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size Various, D. 6in (15cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) (35cm–40cm) Milk Cow (pictured) Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe Classification Hard Producer Schertenleib Dairy and Reumillet Classification Hard Producer Jeune Montagne cooperative Producer Fromagerie de Terre-Dieu

Epoisses de Bourgogne AOC A CLOsER LOOk According to legend, Epoisses was created in the 16th century The unique appearance of Epoisses is by the local monks. It was based on the first washed-rind caused by regularly hand washing the cheese created at Maroilles Abbey in Thierache, Northern France cheeses in brandy and brine, which around 960ce. also made it one of the most pungent of the washed-rind cheeses. FRANCE The monks were forbidden meat on famous town of Dijon. Despite being fast days, and with over a hundred of made by only 4 producers, it is found these—not to mention compulsory in cheese shops as far afield as the fish on Friday—cheese was an United States, China, and Australia. essential part of their diet. The washed-rind cheeses with their TAsTING NOTEs Epoisses Frais, strong, pungent meaty taste must at 30 days, is firm, moist, slightly have seemed like a gift from above. grainy with a softening around the When the monastery closed, the thin, pale orange rind and is monks left behind the recipe which mild and lactic with a subtle was then passed from mother to savory, yeasty tang. At 40 daughter. However, it was all but lost days, Epoisses Affinee has a until Robert and Simone Berthaut sticky, wrinkled, terracotta decided to revive the old recipe in rind and pungent spicy aroma 1956. Other producers have since and a smooth velvety texture. joined the revival, and, in 1991, When the outer edges are near Epoisses was awarded an AOC to collapsing, the inside is not Protected Designation Origin. far behind and the aroma, described by some as To qualify for AOC status it must reminiscent of smelly socks, is be made in the departments of the matched by the wickedly Cote d’Or, the Yvonne and the Haute strong, strangely meaty taste. Marne, and a small area West of the 64 HOw TO ENjOY No APPLYING BRANDY cheeseboard is complete The monks of Epoisses, The milk for Epoisses come from Brune, French without a washed-rind cheese, taking advantage of their Simmental, and Montbeliarde cows. and Epoisses is among the proximity to the great greatest. Smear it on nut and vineyards of Burgundy, FRANCE Bourgogne and Champagne raisin bread or, if you love strong decided to wash the cheese Ardenne cheese, bake and serve it with crusty in a strong local brandy or Age 4–6 weeks bread or dollop some on sliced potatoes marc which imparts a Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round and bake. Cooking brings out its distinct alcoholic whiff and Size D. 6in (16.5cm), H. 1in (3cm) sweeter side, but its intense flavor creates an intense, sticky, Milk Cow and aroma means it should be used orange rind. Classification sparingly. The smooth velvety texture Producer Various and strong aromatic flavor demands a fine red Burgundian Pinot Noir or a rich buttery Chardonnay, but a spicy aromatic Riesling or Marc de Bourgogne are also equally good companions.

SMEAR-RiPEning Every day for 4–6 weeks, the young cheeses are washed in a mix of brine and a special bacteria called brevibacterium linens, a process often referred to as smear-ripening. PAckAging The cheeses are YELLOWing Smear-ripening causes the rind to packed in small round wooden gradually change from pale yellow-orange to an boxes with wood from the increasingly sticky, glistening tangerine orange with a fine Jura mountains. Traditionally, they dusting of white flora or yeast. were lined with chestnut leaves, but these are now banned due to The washed rind is orange health regulations. Now, attractive to terracotta in color, and brown paper leaves are used pungent in flavor. instead. The perforated micro film stretched over the box in which it is FRANCE sold prevents the buyer from feeling if the cheese is ripe. Instead you judge its maturity by the intensity of its color. 65 The interior is moist and Round, portion removed creamy-colored.

France Lingot de la Ginestarie Livarot AOC Lou Rocaillou This small, fresh ewe’s milk cheese is One of the most ancient cheeses of Lou rocaillou means “the craggy produced in the Pyrénées by M. Teosky, normandie, Livarot was probably cheese” in local dialect, referring to the a passionate farmer who is originally invented by local monks. Its nickname, causse Méjean, a large limestone from Poland and who grazes both ewes “the colonel,” comes from the five plateau where the ewes whose milk and goats on his pastures. stripes of sedge grass that encircle creates this cheese enjoy grazing. TaSTInG nOTeS a farmhouse cheese, the cheese’s washed rind and resemble TaSTInG nOTeS rocaillou has a white Lingot de la Ginestarie is soft, the stripes used on military uniforms molded rind and a smooth, supple, and becoming almost runny with age, and to denote an officer’s rank. fine paste that almost melts in the tastes sweet with a fresh and pleasant mouth. Whether it is eaten young or countryside aroma. TaSTInG nOTeS a good Livarot should kept until it is more mature, it is HOW TO enJOY Its brick shape makes it have a firm, orange-brown, slightly always a very sweet cheese. distinctive-looking on a cheeseboard, sticky rind and a strong spicy flavor. HOW TO enJOY It makes a delicious snack and its fresh, delicate taste is best whether eaten on its own or spread on paired with a light red wine such as HOW TO enJOY Team a perfectly ripe fresh bread. as part of a cheeseboard, it a chinon. cheese with any well-knit red wine, but offers an interesting alternative to it is equally good with a cider, such as sharper cheeses. one from normandy, or a sweet late-harvest alsace wine. FRANCE Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Basse-Normandie FRANCE Aveyron, Midi-Pyrénées Age 3 months Age 2 weeks Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), drum Weight and Shape 3oz (85g), round Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) Weight and Shape 5oz (140g), brick Milk Cow Milk Ewe Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh 66 Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 2in (5cm), H. 2in Producer M. Dombres (5cm) Producer Fromagerie E Graindorge; Fromagerie Thebault Milk Ewe Classification Aged fresh Producer M. Teosky

Lou Sotch Lucullus Mâconnais AOC Lou Sotch is a small, oval ewe’s milk This soft white cheese is produced in The Mâconnais is made from pure france cheese from the Grands causses normandy and named after a famous goat’s milk or from a combination of nature Park in the aveyron area. With roman general and gourmet. It is made goat’s and cow’s milk, which is its thin wrinkly rind dusted with white by adding generous quantities of cream available all year round. It is produced mold, it looks a little like rocamadour, to the milk before it is coagulated. Its in the Bourgogne region and was given a small goat’s milk cheese, but this high cream content means it is more the aOc label in 2005. cheese is more flavorful. stable than other soft white cheeses, so TaSTInG nOTeS It has a unique taste: TaSTInG nOTeS a smooth paste, tender keeps for longer in the refrigerator. a faint goaty and slightly nutty flavor, rind, and nutty powerful taste makes TaSTInG nOTeS It develops a soft white and a delicate aroma of spring herbs. Lou Sotch a delightful alternative for rind with a mushroomy aroma. It has eaten fresh, it is white and creamy; all lovers of goat cheese. a wickedly rich, luxurious feel in the left to mature, it becomes harder and HOW TO enJOY eat with savory chutneys mouth and a nutty flavor. forget the fat slightly salty. and serve with a chilled dry white wine content—just enjoy the taste! HOW TO enJOY It is best served with the as an aperitif. HOW TO enJOY eat on crackers or crusty dry and fruity whites of the Mâconnais bread and team with a light fruity wine region, such as Beaujolais and Mâcon. with bouquet, such as red Bouzy. FRANCE Aveyron, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Ile-de-France and Basse Normandie FRANCE Bourgogne 67 Age 12–20 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 1–2 weeks Weight and Shape 1oz (2.5cm), oval Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), drum Weight and Shape 2oz (60g), Size L. 6in (15cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) truncated cone Milk Ewe Milk Cow Size D. 2in (5cm) at base, 1.5in (31⁄2cm) at Classification Aged fresh Classification Soft white top, H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) Producer M. Dombres Producer Various Milk Goat and cow Classification Aged fresh Producer Various

Maroilles AOC Mimolette Mont d’Or AOC The most famous cheese in the north This hard cheese originated in the The Mont d’Or mountains lie on the of France, Maroilles was invented by netherlands, but since the 17th French–Swiss border, and it is there monks in 962 ce. regular turning and century it has also been made in that this cheese is made between the washing eliminates the natural white northern France. It is produced using end of august and the middle of March. mold and promotes the development of the same methods as edam, but is It has been produced in both countries the bacteria that gives the rind its colored with annatto and aged for for centuries; however, it is the French distinctive orange-red color. a minimum of six months. who have been granted an aOc label (in 1981). France TaSTInG nOTeS Maroilles’ paste is TaSTInG nOTeS as it ripens, the paste of TaSTInG nOTeS This creamy cheese has golden-yellow, soft, and oily, and it has this colorful cheese changes from a delicate taste with a hint of the a strong flavor and aroma with a sweet, bright orange to orange-brown, and the spruce band that binds it and helps it lingering aftertaste. texture becomes brittle. The flavor is to keep its shape while maturing. HOW TO enJOY a local favourite involves mild but becomes stronger with age. HOW TO enJOY Scoop it out with a spoon using Maroilles in a sauce for chicken HOW TO enJOY eat as an appetizer. Serve at the end of the meal or melt it in the dishes. eat it alongside all very strong, with all light and fruity wines, such as oven and eat it like fondue. vigorous red wines, such as côte de Beaune, but it is commonly châteauneuf-du-Pâpe. served with beers, port or Madeira. FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Nord-Pas-De-Calais FRANCE Franche-Comté Age 3–24 months Age 1 month Age 4 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb–6lb Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), round (2.5kg–2.7kg), ball Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1⁄2in (1cm) Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb (800g) square Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 5in (13cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft 68 Size L. 5in (13cm), W. 5in (13cm) H. 11⁄2in Classification Hard Producer Various (4cm) Producer Various Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Producer Various

Morbier AOC Morvan Mothais-sur-Feuille This washed-rind cheese is made by This is a soft cheese that is typically Goats were introduced to the Poitou france the cheesemakers of comté in the Jura eaten during spring and summer. It is province by the Moors during the 15th mountains. It is characterized by a fermier cheese that is produced in century and now play a significant role a horizontal dark line in the center of Bourgogne and named after the in the local economy. This farmhouse the cheese. Traditionally, the producers regional nature Park of Morvan, cheese undergoes an unusual sprinkled soot from wood fires over the a beautiful nature preserve of woods, production method for a goat cheese; it morning curd, then covered it with forests, and mountains. is placed on a chestnut leaf and ripened curd from the evening milking. Today, TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese is best eaten at a high humidity, rather than in dry wood ash is used to recreate the look. fresh. It is slightly nutty and has conditions, so it retains more moisture. TaSTInG nOTeS It has a soft and delicate a faint goaty flavor. TaSTInG nOTeS With a soft, sticky white paste, a rather pronounced flavor, and a HOW TO enJOY eat it with fresh seasonal rind and creamy texture, the Mothais- mild, milky aroma. The more it ages, berries. Team with a light white sur-feuille has a light, moldy aroma the sweeter and stronger the taste. wine such as Mâconnais, Beaujolais, and a long-lasting, delicate aftertaste. HOW TO enJOY Serve with a local arbois or Mâcon. HOW TO enJOY Partner this melt-in-the- wine or light and fruity wines like mouth cheese with a full-bodied red Beaujolais or Jura. wine from Poitou. FRANCE Franche-Comté FRANCE Bourgogne Region Poitou-Charentes 69 Age 2–3 months Age 3 weeks Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 11lb–19lb 13oz Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (115g), drum Weight and Shape 8–9oz (225–250g), (5–9kg), wheel Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) round Size D. 14–16in (36–41cm), H. 3–4in Milk Goat Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) (7.5–10cm) Classification Aged fresh Milk Goat Milk Cow Producer Various Classification Aged fresh Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various

Munster AOC Olivet Ossau-Iraty AOC France Munster is an ancient, washed-rind named after the town on the Loire The name of this hard cheese refers to cheese of monastic origin that dates river in which it was first made, Olivet the valley of Ossau, in Béarn, and the back to the Middle ages. It is also is produced in a variety of forms. forests of Iraty, in the Basque country, known as “Géromé” when made in the cendré (shown here), matured in ashes, and encompasses a number of Lorraine region. Its aOc status was has a rather gritty, ash-gray rind; au wonderful cheeses made using the milk established in 1969. Foin has a white rind covered with a of the Manech ewes that graze in this TaSTInG nOTeS When properly matured, few strands of dry grass; and Poivre is breathtakingly beautiful region. it has a strong penetrating smell and covered in crushed pepper. TaSTInG nOTeS Ossau-Iraty has a sharp the flavor of rich milk. There is also TaSTInG nOTeS Olivet has a subtle taste and somewhat nutty taste, and the rind a version available that comes flavored of salt and mushrooms, tinged with is pretty firm, especially after a long with cumin. a slight scent of mold. maturation. If you have a strong palate, HOW TO enJOY eat this like a local: serve HOW TO enJOY Serve with rosé wines try the espelette pepper variety. it with cumin on boiled potatoes. Pair from the region, such as a Pinot HOW TO enJOY eat in traditional fashion a young cheese with Gewürztraminer, Meunier from Orléanais or any fruity with itxassou, a local black cherry jam, and an older one with very full-bodied red, such as a Borgueil. which counterbalances its sharpness. It reds like côte-rôtie or Haut-Médoc. is also featured in numerous local dishes. FRANCE Alsace and Lorraine FRANCE Centre FRANCE Aquitane Age 2–3 months Age 1 month Age 3 months minimum Weight and Shape 10oz– 3lb 3oz Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb–15lb 7oz (280g–1.5kg), round Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) (2–7kg), round Milk Cow Size D. 7–11in (18–28cm), H. 3–41⁄2in 70 Size D. 5–7in (13–19cm), H. 1–3in Classification Soft white (7–15cm) Producer Various Milk Ewe (2.5–8cm) Classification Hard Milk Cow Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Producer Various

Palet de Bourgogne Pavé d’Auge Pavé Blésois This is a 20th-century creation of the an old variation of Pont-L’evêque, this This artisan cheese is produced in both france well-known Burgundian cheesemaker, semi-soft cheese is nowadays a generic a square and a rectangle shape, and its raymond Gaugry. This cheese is based name for several square, washed-rind dry surface is covered in an elegant on epoisse and is washed every cheeses produced in the auge area. and interesting silvery blue mold. It is two days with brine and Marc de These include Pavé de Moyaux (the made in the Blesois region of france, Bourgogne so that it becomes wet and name of an area), Pavé du Plessis (the near the river Loire. reddish in color. name of a dairy), and Trouville (named TaSTInG nOTeS It has an aroma of goat’s TaSTInG nOTeS The paste of this strongly after a small seaside town). Pavé is the milk. The paste is clean and smooth, scented cheese is fine and creamy, and french for the rough paving stones with a hazelnut note and a tongue- has a powerful and penetrating flavor found in most old local towns. tingling aftertaste. that is not unlike the epoisses and the TaSTInG nOTeS Pavé d’auge has a spicy HOW TO enJOY an excellent country ami du chambertin, but not as strong. flavor and strong tang that can be cheese, Pavé Blesois makes a great HOW TO enJOY This full-flavored cheese is a little bitter. addition to a simple salad and is best best eaten alongside a light red wine, HOW TO enJOY Pair this with a strong, served with a dry and simple light such as a Savigny-les-Beaune. full-bodied red wine with some bouquet: white wine, such as a chinon. Bourgueil, fleurie, or Pomerol. FRANCE Gevrey-Chambertin, Bourgogne FRANCE Basse-Normandie FRANCE Centre 71 Age 4 weeks Age 2 months Age 6 weeks Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g), Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) square, Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) square 10oz (300g) rectangle Milk Cow Size L. 41⁄2in (11cm), W. 41⁄2in (11cm H. 2in Size Square: L. 3in (8cm), W. 3in (8cm), Classification Semi-soft (5cm) H. 11⁄2in (4cm); Rectangle: L. 5in (12cm), Producer Fromagerie Gaugry Milk Cow W. 3in (7cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Producer Various Classification Aged fresh Producer Various

Pavé de la Ginestarie Pavé du Nord Pavin a unique cheese, Pavé de la Ginestarie This cheese is also known as Pavé de Produced in the mountains of Forez is produced from the milk of goats roubaix, named after the textile city of using a similar method to that for that live in the Pyrenées mountains, roubaix located in the north of France. Saint-nectaire, this semi-soft cheese is but exactly how it is made is a well- Historically, the cheese could always be named after a lake in the auvergne. kept secret. What is known is that found on the weavers’ tables. Its Pavin is washed with a mix of brine there are traces of straw in the rind attractive, carrot-orange interior, like and annatto to create a sticky orange and that its bacteria form part of the Mimolette, is derived from the use of rind that is dusted with a fine ripening process. annatto in its production. white mold. TaSTInG nOTeS an organic, white-rinded France cheese, it has a pale paste with a hint TaSTInG nOTeS It has a rock-hard, orange TaSTInG nOTeS The paste is light yellow of straw in the flavor. It has a subtle to brown rind and a very hard, compact in color and is tinged with the scent of taste but a long-lasting finish. texture with a few small holes, and an mushrooms, and it has the flavor of HOW TO enJOY For a delicious intense, mouth-tingling, tangy finish. hazelnuts. combination, pair this delicate cheese with fresh blackberries or currants to HOW TO enJOY Shave or thinly slice as HOW TO enJOY Serve it with a full-bodied give it a real sweetness. an appetizer with a beer, or use to add wine from the Bourgogne, such as a character and flavor to cheese sauces. Pommard or Mercurey. FRANCE Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Auvergne Age 6–24 months Age About 8 weeks Age 3 weeks Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz (4kg), brick Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), round Size L. 11in (27cm), W. 5in (13cm), Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 2in (4cm) Weight and Shape 1oz (30g), square H. 3in (8cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft 72 Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 3⁄4in (2cm) Classification Hard Producer Various Milk Goat Producer Various Classification Aged fresh Producer M. Teosky

Pechegos Pélardon AOC Pérail This cheese derives its name from Pélardon is a generic name for small although it has existed for centuries, france a plateau in the Tarn region. It is here goat cheeses produced in the cévennes this small cheese used to be made only that the goats whose raw milk is used region of france, near the alps. as a way to prevent wastage, using up in the production of Pechegos graze. These include Pélardon des cévennes small quantities of milk when there The finished washed cheese has (shown here), Pélardon d’anduze, was not enough left to make roquefort. a distinctive-looking copper-colored and Pélardon d’altier. nowadays it is considered to be a rind and is bound with spruce bark. TaSTInG nOTeS Pélardon cheeses have a renowned speciality. TaSTInG nOTeS Pechegos has a very creamy and dense texture; a full, rich TaSTInG nOTeS Pérail has a less creamy texture, similar to the famous milky and nutty flavor; and a lingering pronounced flavor than most ewe’s milk Mont d’Or on which the recipe is based. aftertaste. The rind is barely formed, cheeses, probably because of its rather It is a real taste sensation, with many thin, soft, and wrinkled, and as it short aging period. With its smooth different mushroomy and truffle flavors. matures it develops a natural mold. paste and tender rind, it has a soft yet distinguishable nutty taste. HOW TO enJOY Serve it alongside potatoes HOW TO enJOY Lightly broil or bake and HOW TO enJOY Serve with rose hip jam. It or eggs, with a full-bodied white, such accompany with a red costières de pairs well with all lively wines from the as Jurancon, or a red, such as Madiran. nîmes or a full-bodied côtes du rhône, south of france. such as Gigondas or Vacqueyras. FRANCE Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Languedoc-Roussillon FRANCE Aveyron, Midi-Pyrénées 73 Age 8 weeks Age 2–3 weeks Age Best around 2 weeks Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 3–41⁄2oz (85–125g), Weight and Shape 3–5oz (85–140g), disc Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) disc Size D. 3–4in (8–10cm), H. 1in (2cm), Milk Goat Size D. 21⁄2–3in (6–7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Ewe Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Producer Le Pic Cooperative Classification Aged fresh Producer M. Dombres Producer Various

Reblochon de Savoie AOC A CLOSER LOOk Although Reblochon has been made in the summer Alpine Reblochon is a piece of history and a pastures since the 13th century, it was unheard of until after the reflection of the unique geology of the French revolution. The reason for secrecy was the introduction of region, the indigenous breed of cows, a tax. In the 14th century, farmers who grazed their cattle in the and the people who make it. magnificent Haute-Savoie pastures overlooking Lake Annecy were forced to pay a tax based on the milk yield of their cattle. To avoid payment of the tax, the summer pastures in winter. The farmer would only partially milk his feeding of silage or concentrates is cows in the presence of the tax man, banned because it can taint the then, once he departed, the cows sweetness of the milk, and the were remilked. This additional stipulation that it can only be made “tax-free” milk was then made into from unpasteurized milk ensures Reblochon—from the old Savoie word production is always near the source THE CASEIN LABEL A round green casein stamp on the rind means it’s a fermier, reblocher, to “remilk” or “pinch the of the raw material. “farmhouse”, cheese, made in an Alpine chalet or farms in the Thones area. A red stamp cow’s udder again,” and was kept for Reblochon must be made and means it has been made in a factory, or by the milk of more than one herd within a wider family consumption only. matured in the Haute-Savoie and defined area. After the French revolution, the north-eastern parts of the Savoie by tax was removed and the farmers individual farmers, fermier, were free to sell their cheese. cooperatives, fruitiere, or commercial Reblochon has been protected by the dairies, industriel, who receive their AOC regulations since 1976, which milk from local farms. states that the milk can only come TASTINg NOTES When young, FRAnCE from the indigenous Abondance, Tarine, and Montbéliarde cows that the cheese has the sweetness of stolen graze the alpine pastures in summer fruit. As it matures it is no longer and dine on hay cut from those rich sweet but tastes of freshly pickled, crunchy walnuts and a hint of the mountain flowers. Its supple, creamy texture flows over and caresses the palate like warm, English custard. The fermier cheese has a more intense, complex flavor and a farmyard aroma, but do not be deterred. The interior captures the aroma of the wild flowers and herbs of the 74 Haute-Savoie pastures. The Haute-Savoie pastures and Lake Annecy. HOw TO ENjOy Traditionally Round of Reblochon served with crusty pain de campagne FRANCE Rhône–Alpes (a sourdough bread), a few slices of The supple interior oozes Age 4–12 weeks sweet jambon de pays (air-dried ham), beneath the rind. Weight and Shape 9–11⁄4lb (240–550g), and pickled gherkins. However, it melts round like a river of cheese and is amazing Size D. 31⁄2–5in (9–12cm), H. 1in (3cm) grilled on bread, vegetables, as a Milk Cow topping for soups or baked with Classification Semi soft potatoes and cream, or on ratatouille. Producer Various Apremont, a crisp local white wine, light beer, or sweet cider make perfect companions; or try a soft red with low tannin, such as Merlot.

PRESSING A large piece of white cloth is stretched over a tray of cheese molds. The curd is then FORMING THE RIND In cool cellars, often ladled into each mold and a small wooden disc placed over the top to lightly press the curd. carved into the hillside under the mountain chalets, the rind grows a mix of gray and white The rind ranges from pinkish-yellow molds, which are discouraged by regular when young to a pale terracotta-red, brushing and washes in brine. The rind should be dry not damp, smooth not cracked or split, usually covered with whitish flora. and feel supple. fRAnce PACKAGING Reblochon is wrapped with a little wooden disc on the base and sometimes on top so you need to rely on your cheese merchant to tell you if it is ripe. 75 The wrinkles and irregularities in the rind are formed when the cloth is trapped in the curd during pressing.

France Persillé de Tignes Petit Fiancé des Picodon AOC Pyrénées although persillé translates as This cheese is made from the milk of “parsley,” it in fact refers to the fine First created in 1989, this the goats that graze on the mountain blue-green mold that appears naturally unpasteurized goat’s cheese is made grass and shrubs of the ardèche and inside the cheese rather than as a from the milk of an alpine breed of Drome regions. These pastures are result of piercing to encourage the blue. goats. after the whey is drained from filled with strong aromas and flavors, The mustard-colored pigment on the the curds, the cheese is circled with which in turn produce milk of the rind is thought to be linked to the fact a band of ash wood and washed highest quality. Picodon has been aoc that the goats whose milk is used graze repeatedly for six weeks as it matures. protected since 1983. on sulphurous soil. TasTing noTes The goats’ diet gives TasTing noTes it is lactic and herbaceous TasTing noTes The washing process Picodon its spicy flavor; however, the with richer flavors in summer and fall. gives the cheese a moist texture, paste is so dry that the flavor is best as it ripens, it becomes dry, spicy, and and the ash binding infuses it with obtained by sucking the cheese. intense, and it breaks easily. a woody aroma. The finished cheese HoW To enJoY Picodon tastes delicious has a supple melting interior. when added to salads or paired with lively, full-bodied red and white wines HoW To enJoY Persillé can be enjoyed HoW To enJoY Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées from the côtes-du-rhône. with all fruity and light red wines, such is best paired with a fruity white wine, as a crépy or saumure. such as a condrieux. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Age 6 weeks Age 1 month Age 2–6 months Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), round Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), cylinder Milk Goat Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh 76 Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Producer Fromagerie Fermier Cabrioulet Producer Various Milk Goat Classification Hard Producer Various

Pierre-Robert Pithiviers Plaisir au Chablis Pierre-robert originally owes its name Produced in Bondaroy, near Orléans, named “the pleasure of france to robert rouzaire, the producer, and his Pithiviers used to be made in summer chablis” after the wine used in its friend Pierre. This soft white cheese is when milk was plentiful and then production, this semi-soft cheese is now made by rouzaire’s son. it is not a stored in hay until the fall. now it is from the same family as the epoisses cheese for anyone watching their calorie produced all year round, but it is still de Bourgogne. it is also known as intake; this triple-cream cheese has covered in fine strands of dried grasses, affidélis, and is a sticky, creamy cheese extra cream added to the milk to give it herbs and meadow flowers. that is usually sold in a wooden box. a fat content of 75 percent for every TasTing nOTes The white rind is TasTing nOTes Being washed once 3½ /100g and a luxurious, rich taste. sprinkled with hay, and the paste is a week with chablis, a crisp white TasTing nOTes This very creamy, buttery soft with a slight fragrance of mold and wine, gives it a fruity, alcoholic taste. and slightly sour cream tang melts in mushrooms, exuding a tangy flavor. Like all washed-rind cheeses, Plaisir the mouth when young. Over time, it HOW TO enJOY Team Pithiviers with the has a strong taste. becomes richer and tangy. pale red Pinots of Orléanais and the HOW TO enJOY as the name suggests, HOW TO enJOY it is delicious with pears, fruity, lively light red wines of Orléans this is best served with a crisp white or with a full-bodied Bourgogne, such and Touraine (chinon and Bourgeuil). wine, especially a chablis. as Pommard or Mercurey. FRANCE Seine-et-Marne, Ile-de-France FRANCE Centre FRANCE Brochon, Bourgogne 77 Age 1 month Age 4–5 weeks Age 6 weeks Weight and shape 1lb (450g), round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 61⁄2oz (180g), round Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 3in (8cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow Classification Soft white Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Producer Fromagerie Rouzaire Producer Various Producer Fromagerie Gaugry; Fromagerie Berthault

Pont-l’Evêque AOC Pot Corse Pouligny-Saint-Pierre AOC France Originally called angelot, this Pot corse is a fromage fort, a recipe washed-rind cheese is probably one of developed by the French as a means of This goat cheese, aOc protected since the oldest French cheeses. It is even using leftover cheese. The remnants of 1972, is nicknamed “the Pyramid” or mentioned by Guillaume de Lorris in ewe’s milk cheeses are gathered “the eiffel Tower” because of its shape. his 13th century allegorical poem together and combined with a little It has a dry, vaguely knobby, pale “roman de la rose.” Pont-L’evêque white wine, garlic, spices, and perhaps cream to reddish rind which is dusted was granted an aOc in 1976. some herbs, then spread on bread like with a blue-gray mold. TaSTInG nOTeS The creamy, yellow, butter. This corsican variation is smooth paste develops small holes as it presented in a small pot. TaSTInG nOTeS With a moist, soft, and ripens, and has a lingering, sweet taste. TaSTInG nOTeS The strong, powerful and crumbly paste, the flavor changes from Older cheeses have a stronger flavor. buttery flavor has vegetal overtones. sour to salty to sweet. It has an aroma of the straw and of the milk of the HOW TO enJOY Try eating this cheese HOW TO enJOY Do as the corsicans do alpine goats used to produce it. alongside a glass of stout, or with and match it with spicy food and a a glass of full-bodied red wine, full-bodied red wine. Its pretty HOW TO enJOY It is superb for a from Bordeaux, Burgundy, or presentation is a bonus. cheeseboard or broiled. Team it with a côtes du rhône. fruity chenin or Sauvignon wine from the Touraine and Berry regions. FRANCE Pont-l’Evêque, Basse Normandie FRANCE Corse FRANCE Centre Age 20 weeks Age 3–5 weeks Age 5–6 weeks Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), jar Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), pyramid Size No size Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 31⁄2in (8cm) Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), square Milk Ewe Milk Goat Classification Fresh Classification Aged fresh 78 Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm) H. 1in Producer Various Producer Various (2.5cm) Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Producer Fromagerie E Graindorge, Fromagerie Thebault

Raclette de Savoie Racotin Rigotte de Condrieu france AOC The name is derived from the french During the production process, the curd verb racler, meaning to scrape, as this of this goat cheese is drained, and it This farmhouse cheese is quite rare cheese was traditionally placed in is the natural flora in the milk that because it is made with goat’s milk, front of an open fire and, as it melted, brings a yellow tinge to the blue-white unlike most rigottes, which are made scraped on to hot potatoes or bread. crinkled rind of the finished product. with cow’s milk. It is a very old cheese, Some are made with added flavors, Similar to charolais, but smaller, it is and has been aOc protected since 2008. such as raclette fumée, which is aged by Bernard Sivignon, a renowned smoked over beechwood; au vin blanc, affineur based in Bourgogne. TaSTInG nOTeS rigotte de condrieu rubbed with a white wine; and la TaSTInG nOTeS racotin has a dense, firm, tastes milky but does not have a very moutarde, made with mustard seeds. slightly grainy texture and a goaty pronounced flavor. It has a natural TaSTInG nOTeS The supple, elastic flavor with a peppery, buttery tang. rind, a robust paste, and a honey and texture melts superbly and has a sweet HOW TO enJOY fresh raspberries and acacia aroma. taste that is stronger when melted. nutty bread are good accompaniments HOW TO enJOY Slice and grill or broil with to this goat cheese, along with a crisp HOW TO enJOY It goes perfectly with potatoes, and serve with cooked meats white wine. the light and fruity wines of côtes and fruity red or white Savoy wines. du Lyonnais, Beaujolais, and côtes du rhône. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Rhône-Alpes 79 Age Minimum 2 months Age 3–4 weeks Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 83⁄4lb–15lb 7oz Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), cylinder Weight and Shape 2oz (60g), round (4.5–7kg), wheel Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 11–14in (28–36cm), H. 2in–3in Milk Goat Milk Goat (5.5–7.5cm) Classification Aged fresh Classification Aged fresh Milk Cow Producer Various Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Producer Various

Rocamadour AOC Rollot Rouelle du Tarn France This goat cheese was once known as This semi-soft washed-rind cheese used This creamy goat cheese was created cabécou de rocamadour, but since it to be exclusively round, but in recent by a farmer from the Tarn region in gained its aOc status in 1996, it has years, a factory version has been 1984. Its unusual and distinctive shape been renamed simply rocamadour, produced, called cœur de rollot, which is achieved by ladling the curd into after the best-known market in the has been molded into a heart shape. a mold with a hole in the middle. region. This change in name sets it TaSTInG nOTeS This powerful cheese is It is then sprinkled with ash to create apart from other cabécou cheeses that similar in taste to a Maroilles (see p68) a white-gray rind. The combination are not made in the rocamadour area, and has a spicy tang. The paste has a of these techniques makes it an and so cannot carry the aOc label. soft, sticky texture. aesthetically-pleasing addition to TaSTInG nOTeS With a tender and creamy HOW TO enJOY The heart-shaped version any cheeseboard. paste, rocamadour tastes mild and looks decorative on an after-dinner TaSTInG nOTeS rouelle du Tarn has slightly milky, but has a delicious sweet cheeseboard. You can serve it with a milky, deliciously creamy flavor and and nutty aftertaste. all lively and fruity wines, such as a hazelnut note. HOW TO enJOY Serve with figs and pair Saint-emilion, côte rôtie, and HOW TO enJOY Ideal with all fruity and and a fruity, robust red wine, preferably Savigny-les-Beaune. light red wines, particularly a Saumur of the cahor region. or chinon. FRANCE Aquitaine FRANCE Picardie FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées Age 6–8 weeks Age 1 month Age 1–3 weeks Weight and Shape 7–10oz (200–300g), Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round round or heart Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1⁄2in (1cm) Weight and Shape 1oz (30g), disc Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh 80 Size D. 2in (4.5cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm) Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Milk Goat Producer Various Classification Aged fresh Producer Various

Rove Cendré Roves des Garrigues Sablé de Wissant Generously sprinkled with ash, the This fresh cheese is named after the a recent creation made in Wissant, on france rove cendré comes from a farm that rove breed of goat that is native to the france’s northern coast, this semi-soft has around 200 rove goats with their Mediterranean and now very rare. cheese is rolled in bread crumbs to give distinct long horns and red coats. It is rove goats produce very little milk it a rough, sandy (or sablé) rind that made only from March to December, each day (about 2 liters compared with absorbs the pale local beer in which it although the hardy goats remain an average of 5 liters in other breeds), is washed. outdoors, grazing on the wild fragrant but what it does produce is extremely TaSTInG nOTeS Supple with small holes, pastures, berries, and small bushes. dense and flavorsome. this cheese feels rich and creamy in the TaSTInG nOTeS The texture is smooth TaSTInG nOTeS The paste is pure mouth. It has the aroma and taste of and creamy, and the flavor is aromatic white with a soft melt-in-the-mouth beer—yeasty and slightly sweet with a and herbaceous. sensation and a fresh lemony tang that pungent farm-yardy finish. HOW TO enJOY rove cendré ‘s ash is overlaid with a hint of thyme and HOW TO enJOY Great on a cheeseboard coating and fresh lemony tang make it wild herbs. because of its unusual appearance, but an attractive apéritif. Serve with fresh HOW TO enJOY excellent served with like all washed-rind cheeses, it should figs and berries, and a glass of a quince paste and washed down with be use sparingly in cooking. Serve with Provençal rosé. a glass of red côtes du Ventoux. a light ale or a glass of champagne. FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Wissant, Nord-Pas-de-Calais 81 Age 2 weeks Age 1–2 weeks Age 7 weeks Weight and Shape 21⁄2oz (75g), oval Weight and Shape 21⁄2oz (75g), round Weight and Shape 13oz (350g), square Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Various Producer Bernard Brothers

Roquefort AOC A ClOseR lOOk folklore has it that roquefort was created some 2000 years ago There are only seven producers of when a love struck shepherd, distracted by his young love from roquefort in the world, each using tending his sheep, left his lunch, a piece of bread and cheese, in the same basic process and yet each the cave where he had been sheltering. a few days later he achieves their own distinct and remembered the cheese and found it had developed a individual character. The biggest greenish mold through the center. is the roquefort Société. Since then, shepherds have been It takes milk from 6–8 ewes to make Pockets of mold. maturing their cheese in the deep one 6lb 6oz (3kg) cheese. france limestone caves of cambalou. no chemicals, unwanted molds, or roquefort has been protected since stainless steel shelves are used to 1411 when charles VI signed a disturb the delicate balance that has charter granting the people of for centuries produced one of the roquefort-sur-Soulzon the rights to world’s finest cheeses. The natural make it, and in 1926 it was the first caves are about 984ft (300m) wide, cheese to be granted appellation and go down four to five levels. d’Origine contrôlée (aOc) status. Only those unfamiliar with the process The often harsh climate with its would compare other ewe’s milk cheese hot, dry summers and cold winters, with roquefort. and the rugged, rocky geography has for centuries been home to a local TAsTing nOTes When fully aged, breed of hardy indigenous sheep. the mold will have fanned out to the Lactation lasts from December to edges of the buttery mass in streaks July, and each sheep, grazing on the and pockets and the flavor is spicy, tussock grasses and wild herbs, strong, and mouth-watering. Sadly, produces around 3½–5 pints some roquefort is consumed too young (2–3 liters) of rich, flavorsome milk. when there is barely a hint of blue and the texture is crumbly rather than cohesive and the bite has no backbone. HOw TO enjOy roquefort is sublime when eaten in chunks with sourdough bread, and spectacular in sauces, or when crumbled on top of salads or pasta. Traditionally it is 82 paired with Port or Sauternes, but it is fantastic with just about any dessert wine as they cut though the salty tang and highlight the sweetness of the milk. Pencillium roqueforti, the fungus responsible for Roquefort’s blue-gray mold. France Midi-Pyrénées Age 3 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2–61⁄4lb (2.5–2.9kg), drum Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3–4in (8.5–10.5cm) Milk Ewe Classification Hard Producer Various

The Caves The numerous cracks and Foil Wrapping The cheeses are fissures of the limestone caves allow the cool wrapped in foil four weeks after their arrival in the caves to prevent any further mold growth air and indigenous molds to circulate. To on the rind. encourage the growth of the blue penicillium roqueforti molds, large loaves of locally grown The rind is very open and porous. rye bread are placed in the caves and over three months grow a fine furry gray coat which, when dried and powdered, is sprinkled over the newly formed cheeses. Once pierced, the spore-laden air quickly penetrates the nooks and crannies of the loosely packed curd, developing pockets of delicious blue-green mold. france 83 Drum, quarter removed

Saint-Christophe Saint-Domnin Saint-Félicien France although this goat cheese is made This is an alpine goat cheese that has a natural-rinded cheese, Saint-Félicien in the same way as Saint-Maure de a character all its own. It is made in was originally produced using goat’s Touraine, it is made outside the area the alpes-de-Haute-Provence, near milk but now it is made with cow’s designated by the aOc regulations, so ancient Sisteron, and is decorated with milk. Made in the rhône-alpes area, the cheesemaker must use another sprigs of the lavender that thrives on it is similar to, but slightly larger than name. It is available plain or with ash, the region’s rocky plateaus. It is also Saint-Marcellin. as seen here. known as carré Saint-Domnin. TaSTIng nOTeS The rind is very soft, TaSTIng nOTeS Matured in a very moist TaSTIng nOTeS The smooth texture wrinkly, and creamy; the interior varies environment, it develops a soft, sticky, melts in the mouth and is imbued from firm to almost runny and very wrinkled rind and creamy texture. It is with the scent of lavender and the creamy, with a delicate nutty flavor. distinctly goaty, with a nutty taste and subtle flavors associated with this HOw TO enjOy accompany it with a light, moldy aroma. sun-drenched land. a sharp, strong-tasting red wine such HOw TO enjOy It is excellent with any of HOw TO enjOy It makes the perfect as Saint amour or a white Vin de Paille the crisp white wines of the Loire or a ending to a hearty lunch; serve with from jura. light red wine of the chinon. a Provençal rosé or a sweet Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. FRANCE Saint-Christophe-Vallon, FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte-D’Azur FRANCE Saint Félicien, Rhône-Alpes Midi-Pyrénées Age 2 weeks Age 2 weeks Age 2–3 weeks Weight and shape 51⁄2oz (150g), square Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), round Weight and Shape 10oz (280g), log Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 1in Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1⁄2in (1cm) (3cm) Milk Cow 84 Size L. 51⁄2in (14cm), W: 2in (5.5cm), Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Classification Aged fresh Producer Etoile du Vercors Dairy H: 11⁄2in (4.5cm) Producer Various Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Producer Pavé Jacquin

Saint-Florentin Saint-Jacques Saint-Marcellin Saint-florentin, a town near the The farm on which this soft white This pale and creamy cheese has been france famous wine area of chablis, is also cheese is made lies on the edge of the made in homes and small farms in the located in the heart of one of france’s famous forest of rambouillet, near Dauphine region for centuries. It is great dairy regions. The traditional- Paris. Originally a cereal farm with a traditionally produced from goat’s milk, style cheeses, with their reddish-brown small herd of cows, the dairy side has but today, all but a handful are made crusts, are now quite rare, having been gradually taken over, and they now from cow’s milk. replaced by paler, factory-made cheeses produce hand made cheese six days a TaSTInG nOTeS The taste, texture and that are sold when very young. week using milk from their own herd. appearance vary according to how the TaSTInG nOTeS The smooth, shiny rind TaSTInG nOTeS The thin, very soft rind cheese is ripened, but the best have an has a strong penetrating aroma, while encases a creamy interior that varies in orange-tinged rind and are soft inside. the supple interior has a fresh, slightly texture from firm to almost runny. Its Saint-Marcellin can be firm to creamy, salty flavor and can be quite spicy. flavor hints delicately of mushrooms. almost liquid, with a light, subtle HOW TO enJOY It makes a delicious HOW TO enJOY complement it with a soft lemony freshness and a nutty aroma. addition to a fresh salad, and is best and gentle claret, such as Pomerol, so HOW TO enJOY It is superb when baked; served with a robust Burgundy. as not to overpower it. serve with a light and fruity Beaujolais or fruity côtes du rhône. FRANCE Bourgogne FRANCE Ile-de-France FRANCE Rhône-Alpes 85 Age 2 months Age 4–5 weeks Age 2–6 weeks Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), round Weight and Shape 121⁄2oz (350g), round Weight and Shape 3oz (85g), round Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow or goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Classification Aged fresh Producer Fromagerie Lincet Producer Ferme de la Tremblaye Producer Various

France 86 LANGRES The cheese has been rubbed frequently with a mix of the natural dye annatto and brine, giving it a gorgeous tangerine-orange sticky rind that attracts white Penicillium candidum mold once the washing stops. (See p63.)

Saint-Nectaire AOC Saint-Nicolas-de-la- Sarments d’Amour france Dalmerie one of the great cheeses of france, for centuries, the vineyards around Saint-nectaire is made with milk from at the monastery of St. nicholas, Lyon have been home to herds of goats, Salers cows that graze the rich and founded in 1965, the monks live off the which produce the milk for these perfumed volcanic pastures of the land and keep goats. Using raw milk charming cheeses. These vineyards are uplands of the auvergne region. The from the herd, they create an aromatic the inspiration behind the “branch of traditional methods of production have cheese, redolent with the flavor of love” that decorates this modern been aoc protected since 1955. thyme. as the rind develops, it turns french cheese; the protruding vine TaSTing noTeS at maturity, the thick from gentle orange to chestnut in color. stem lends it an attractive air. rind gives off a subtle, slightly pungent The interior is stark white. TaSTing noTeS Sarments d’amour has aroma of straw and mushrooms, while a dense white paste that feels luscious the paste should have a pronounced TaSTing noTeS Tangy, fruity, deep in the mouth and a subtle, but distinct, taste of nut, milk, and lush pastures. flavors typical of only the best goat goat flavor. how To enjoy eat on its own with crusty cheese characterize this fine example, how To enjoy its charming appearance bread and any light fruity wines, which is firm to the touch but melts in and small size make it perfect for an especially côteaux d’auvergne and the mouth. appetizer; serve it with a crisp rosé or côtes roannaises. even a sparkling wine. how To enjoy accompanied by a glass of fruity dry white wine. FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon FRANCE Rhône-Alpes 87 Age 8–10 weeks Age 3 weeks Age 1 week Weight and Shape 3lb 5oz (1.5kg), wheel Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), bar Weight and Shape 1oz (30g), cone Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1½in (4cm) Size W. 11⁄2in (4cm), L. 31⁄2in (8.5cm), Size Various Milk Cow H. 1in (3cm) Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Producer Various Classification Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Le Monastère Orthodoxe Saint-Nicolas

Selles-sur-Cher AOC Signal Soumaintrain France This popular goat cheese has been aOc This seasonal cheese is made only from This brine-washed cheese is a protected since 1975 to maintain its March to november from the milk of member of the epoisses family, but traditional artisan methods of goats that graze near Lac Soumaintrain is larger and tends to be production. about 1.3 liters of milk are d’aiguebellette in Savoie. This is eaten when much younger when it has needed to make a single Selles-Sur- France’s third-largest lake, and it is set a very thin orangey rind. The summer cher; it is then coated with ash on against a stunning backdrop of cheese is creamy and fresh, but it can which a bluish-gray mold develops. meadows, forests and the mountains of be left to mature until winter, when it TaSTInG nOTeS It has a firm texture epine, which were crossed in 218bce by has a slightly harder rind. but melts in the mouth. The taste is Hannibal, his army, and 37 elephants. TaSTInG nOTeS The rind is barely formed, a combination of sour, salty, and sweet. TaSTInG nOTeS The very dense and moist, and orange in color, while the The locals eat the rind because they rich paste is quite similar to that of paste is soft but grainy, becoming believe it gives the truest taste. charolais, while the flavor has a hint of smoother with age. It has a spicy tang HOW TO enJOY Team Selles-Sur-cher mountain flowers. and a penetrating aroma. with all dry whites and rosés of Blésois, HOW TO enJOY eat this flavorsome HOW TO enJOY Team this young cheese and light and fruity reds of Touraine, cheese with ripe, fresh fruit, such as with full-bodied Burgundies, such as such as chinon and Bourgeuil. pears and mountain berries. nuits and Beaune. FRANCE Centre FRANCE Savoie, Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Epoisses, Bourgogne; Brochon, Age 10–21 days Age 3 weeks Bourgogne Weight and Shape 41⁄2–5oz (125–140g), Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), round Age 6 weeks round Size Various Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), round Milk Goat Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) 88 Size Various, D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Classification Aged fresh Milk Cow Producer La Chèvrerie du Signal Classification Semi-soft (pictured) Producer Fromagerie Berthault; Fromagerie Milk Goat Gaugry Classification Aged fresh Producer Various

Tarentais Taupinette Tétoun de Santa Agata Charentaise This authentic fermier, or farmhouse, The name of this goat cheese translates cheese originates in the Tarentaise This cheese is at its best in spring. to “Santa agata’s nipple” because of Valley in the mountains that border The curd of Taupinette is ladled into the peppercorn on its peak. The cheese Italy. It is washed with a regional dome-shaped molds to mature. sits on a bed of sweet, herbaceous white wine. The best cheeses are The crinkled, gray-white rind of the Provençal olive oil and finely chopped those aged by affineur Denis Provent, finished product closely resembles herbs, giving it an original taste in chambery. sphere-shaped coral. and appearance. TaSTInG nOTeS Tarentais has buttery and TaSTInG nOTeS Taupinette has a mild, TaSTInG nOTeS The contrast of france flowery flavors and a long finish. sometimes nutty flavor that becomes smooth, white creamy paste with although it is usually eaten fresh, it more robust stronger as it ages and the olive oil and fresh herbs gives this can be allowed to mature to take on a mold spreads. It has a smooth texture delicately flavored cheese a wonderfully more piquant flavor. when young. aromatic quality. HOW TO enJOY It is superb broiled or HOW TO enJOY Serve this attractive HOW TO enJOY for full effect, serve it served on its own with bread or quince cheese with a red wine such as Pinot alone, spread on bread, or lightly paste, and it goes well with a salad or noir or Saint Joseph. melted. excellent with a light rosé roast vegetables. de Provence wine. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur 89 Age 15 days–3 months Age 3 weeks Age 1–2 weeks Weight and Shape 81⁄2oz (240g), cylinder Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), sphere Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g), cone Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 31⁄2in (8.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm) base, H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Classification Aged fresh Classification Fresh Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various

France Tome des Bauges AOC Tomme à l’Ancienne Tomme de Brebis Corse The milk for this semi-soft cheese Invented by a couple living near the comes from the cows grazing on the town of Banon, Tomme à l’ancienne is This typical corsican hard cheese has alpine pastures of the natural Park made with pure goat’s milk and is a rustic, brown wrinkled crust and is of Bauges. The meadows of wild flowers ladled by hand into disc-shaped molds made with ewe’s milk. It is similar to provide a rich diet for the cows, which to create delicate soft texture. the Basque cheese Ossau-Iraty. is reflected in the sweet, complex TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese is marinated flavors of this cheese. in a strong local brandy—the eau de vie TaSTInG nOTeS This cheese contains TaSTInG nOTeS One of the tastiest of the (the water of life)—along with some a wonderful mix of delicate corsican Tomme de Savoie cheeses, since it is pepper, cloves, thyme, and bay leaves. aromas, including pepper, the native made with full milk and lightly pressed This combination gives it a wonderful aromatic scrub or ‘maquis’. to give it a supple texture with tiny complexity of flavors. holes. The rind becomes thick, HOW TO enJOY It is delicious served with HOW TO enJOY Fig jam makes a very wrinkled, and gray with age. fresh figs and nuts and either a glass of tasty accompaniment. Serve with HOW TO enJOY combine it with hazelnuts eau de vie or a local rosé wine. a good corsican wine, a chinon, and prunes, or add to omelets, soups or a Menetou Salon, or a Faugères. a salad with fennel and endive. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur Region Corse Age 2 weeks–2 months Age 3 months Age Around 5 weeks Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), disc Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), cylinder Size D. 3in (8cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm) , H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Weight and Shape 21⁄2oz (75g), round Milk Goat Milk type Ewe Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard 90 Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Producer Various Producer Various Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Producer Various

Tomme Caprine des Tomme de Chartreux Tomme de Chèvre des france Pyrénées Charentes chartreux is a member of the Tomme This fermier goat cheese is produced in de Savoie family, which is a generic It is produced by just one farmer on the the Pyrénées, a region better known for name for Savoie cheeses that differ small Island of ré, near La rochelle. its excellent ewe’s milk cheese. This from producer to producer. This cheese, This goat cheese is washed twice hard cheese is at its best when made with its flavoring of mountain herbs, a week with a mix of brine and local during the spring and summer months, has characteristics reminiscent of the white wine to develop the complexity which is when the mountainside Swiss raclette (see p241), but with a of aromas and flavors for which it pastures are at their most verdant. bite. This similarity is not surprising is renowned. because the family makers of this TaSTInG nOTeS The taste is rich and cheese originate from Switzerland. TaSTInG nOTeS The flavor is rich, with buttery, and it has a melt-in-the-mouth TaSTInG nOTeS It varies from mild and a sea breeze tang that is derived from texture. The pleasant aroma is flowery milky to nutty with a rich savory tang the atlantic Ocean surrounding the and exotic. and a pleasant farmyard aroma. island. The rind is hard and compact. hOw TO enjOy Try with fresh fruit and hOw TO enjOy Team this rustic goat a light, fruity Savoie wine or richer hOw TO enjOy Serve lightly grilled on cheese with a sweet jurançon wine. regional wines, such as Mondeuse. crusty bread with apples, walnuts, or with a mellow white wine, such as a Muscat. FRANCE Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Alex, Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Poitou-Charentes 91 Age 6–8 weeks Age 8–16 weeks Age Minimum 3 months Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), wheel Weight and Shape 5lb 3oz (2.4kg), round Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), wheel Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 3in (8cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Producer Schmidhauser Dairy Producer Various

Sainte-Maure de Touraine AOC A ClOSer lOOk Goats were introduced to the Loire in the 8th century by the Like most aged fresh cheeses, Saracens who also left behind a lasting legacy of cheesemaking. Sainte-Maure is best when allowed to Today, the chèvre, “goat cheeses,” of the Loire are perceived by age gracefully in the hands of an cheese lovers around the world as the benchmark against which affineur, who will sell them at all aged fresh goat cheeses are measured. varying stages of ripeness depending on the tastes of the clientèle. They include six AOC cheeses— milk. The best are made between As the cheese matures, the Chabichou du Poitou (p49), Crottin Easter and All Saints Day at the wrinkles will become deeper and more pronounced. de Chavignol (p54), Pouligny-Saint- beginning of November. Pierre (p78), Selle-sur-Cher (p88), Valençay (p97), and Sainte-Maure. TASTing nOTeS The wood ash They are made in every conceivable provides a stark contrast against the shape from tiny buttons, bells, and pure white, slightly grainy interior. pears to bricks, rounds, cylinders, As the molds develop, it becomes more logs, and pyramids. They are all dense and the lemony fresh, slightly undeniable classics, but Sainte- nutty flavor intensifies to a more Maure de Touraine, until modern aromatic, herbaceous taste typical of times referred to simply as le long Loire goat’s cheeses. It should not, chèvre, is one of the most popular. however, develop the musky goat taste The rind is dusted with ash and that many people find distasteful until covered with tufted blue molds, the surface becomes deeply wrinkled patches of gray, and mottled with and covered with dark gray and pinks and yellow. The high rainfall, reddish molds. FRANCE warm summers, lush pastures, woodlands, wide rivers, and rolling HOw TO enjOy Its unusual hills of the Loire provide the perfect shape makes it an attractive environment for the goats to produce addition to a cheeseboard, a high yield of excellent, aromatic like all the Loire chèvre. It is also an integral part of Chèvre Salad, France’s ubiquitous salad, with thick rings grilled on slices of crusty bread bringing out its rich, aromatic, nutty side. Sadly, chefs across the 92 world have assumed that any goat cheese can be used, but in fact chèvre refers solely to the Loire-style goat cheeses. The crisp whites, light Rosés, or fruity Alpine and Saanen goats are the breeds whose red wines of the Loire make the best milk is used to make Sainte-Maure. drink companions. FRANCE Centre and Poitou Charentes Age 10–28 days Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), cylinder Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm), L. 7in (18cm) Milk Goat Classification Aged Fresh Producer Various

THE STRAW The use of the straw, paille, indicates the cheese has been made by an artisan producer. You can also use it to pick the cheese up, but it will usually collapse into large indelicate chunks. SHAPING The soft, wet, fragile curds achieved by coagulation are ladled into log-shaped molds to drain and take shape. The surface is encased with a dusty blue-gray mold. THE ASH The logs are sprinkled FrAnCe with a mix of salt and wood ash. Halved log The straw inside is placed Initially, only the ash covers the there by hand and shows that bright, white, moist young curd. The cheese’s texture is firm, the cheese has been made by an It must be at least 10 days old almost brittle. artisan producer. when sold, to comply with the AOC rules. 93 AGING Gradually, the cheese starts to lose moisture, a soft thin wrinkly rind develops, and the surface attracts a variety of micro flora. First, the familiar white velvet of penicillium candidum, then, within 12 days, a delicate blue powder pufflike mold appears that will take over from the white mold.

France Tomme aux Herbes Tomme de Savoie Tommette Brebis des Alpes Tomme aux Herbes is a variety of Tomme de savoie, the generic name the famous French tomme cheeses. for the cheeses or “tommes” of savoie, The high altitudes of this region It has a thin layer of herbs pressed into vary from producer to producer, village produce glorious pastureland, that the rind. to village, and season to season. some influences the wonderful flavors of TasTIng noTes It is supple yet dense and may be flavored with herbs, or spices cheeses produced here. This particular more buttery than most tommes, it such as cumin, or aged under example is made in small quantities absorbs the essence of the aromatic a thick layer of marc, the residue left and is distinguished by its brown rind. herbs that coat the rind, dominated after wine pressing. The “Brebis” of its name signifies the by thyme and rosemary. TasTIng noTes The flavor ranges from use of ewe’s milk. How To enjoy nothing beats a tomme mild and milky to nutty with a savory purchased locally and consumed along tang. It has a herbaceous or farmyard TasTIng noTes This cheese has a mix with warm crusty bread and a local aroma. a label showing four red hearts of delicate aromas and herbaceous red, such as cornas. is a guarantee of quality. flavors, evocative of alpine meadows. How To enjoy excellent baked or broiled. Try with light, fruity savoie wines or a How To enjoy gooseberry jam makes lively Mondeuse or les abymes. a tasty accompaniment. serve with a fruity and bodied red wine, such as chinon or Menetou salon. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Rhône-Alpes Age 1–2 months Age 2–4 months Age 3 months Weight and Shape 3–6lb (1.35–2.7kg), Weight and Shape 3lb (1.35kg), round round Size D. 5in (11.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), round Size D. 7–12in (18–30cm), H. 2–3in Milk Ewe (5–8cm) Classification Semi-soft 94 Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm) Milk Cow Producer Various Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Producer Various

Tommette de Chèvre Trappe d’Echourgnac Trèfle france des Bauges Since 1868, the nuns at the abbaye association des fromagers caprins This rarely produced, authentic goat d’echourgnac have been using milk Perche et Loir is a group group of seven cheese originates in the Bauges from neighboring farms to make and artisan cheesemakers and goat farmers mountains in Savoie. Tommette refers ripen this artisan cheese. Produced who got together in 2002 to create a to a small tommes—a french term that only in small quantities, it is well new cheese using the milk of their goat simply means a small cheese that is worth seeking out. herds. The cheese is shaped like a usually made on small farm in TaSTInG nOTeS Washing with walnut four-leafed clover; trèfle means clover in mountain regions. It has a hard, dry, liquor gives the rind an attractive french, hence its name. gray-brown crust. dark brown color, and the supple paste TaSTInG nOTeS Beneath its soft, thin coat has a smokier taste and a simple, of blue-gray mold, the paste is tender TaSTInG nOTeS The slightly moist, soft balanced flavor. and the taste peppery and long-lasting. and sticky paste fills the mouth with HOW TO enJOY It becomes runny and HOW TO enJOY Serve it with sweet ripe mountain flavors. It has subtle and slightly stringy when cooked, but figs and fresh berries alongside structured aromas. is especially good for stuffing into a Sauvignon Blanc. homemade ravioli. Serve with cider HOW TO enJOY Team this goat cheese or a red or rosé from cahors. with a fruity, full bodied white wine of condrieux. FRANCE Rhône-Alpes FRANCE Dordogne, Aquitaine FRANCE Pays de la Loire 95 Age 2 months Age 2 months Age 2 weeks Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g), round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 4.6oz, 4-leaf clover Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 1in (3.5cm) Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Abbaye d’Echourgnac Producer Various

France Trois Cornes de Truffe de Valensole U Bel Fiuritu Vendée The area around the village of This washed-rind cheese has a thick, after a halt of several years, production Valensole, in the Haute-Provence slightly sticky, orange rind that is of this fresh goat cheese, with its region, is renowned for its truffles. This dusted with white and gray mold and distinctive triangular shape, was hand-shaped cheese reflects its origins exudes a pungent farm-yardy aroma. It resumed in the 1980s near the seaside by being covered with a fine layer of is one of the few corsican ewe’s milk city of Marans. The curious name black charcoal to resemble these highly cheeses made with pasteurized milk. comes from the shape of the famous scented and much-prized mushrooms. TaSTInG nOTeS Supple, smooth, and goat’s horn belonging to Monsieur TaSTInG nOTeS Soft and almost mousse- creamy with small holes scattered Seguin, a character in the tales of the like with a delicate lemony freshness through the pale yellow paste. Its sweet French writer alphonse Daudet. and a hint of herbs on the finish. aromatic flavor reflects the corsican HOW TO enJOY For pure luxury, try it landscape and the wild herbs and TaSTInG nOTeS The paste is bold and rich stirred into pasta with a fine shaving of grasses on which the sheep graze. with a bittersweet flavor. It is best fresh truffles. Serve with a light white HOW TO enJOY U Bel Fiuritu can be eaten fresh, but can be cured for one or wine, such as coteaux Varois, or with enjoyed with full-bodied, structured red two weeks. a light fruity red, such as Beaujolais. wines, such as a Muscat du cap corse or a 12-year-old Frontignan. HOW TO enJOY Try with dry white Loire wines such as Sancerre or chinon. FRANCE Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur FRANCE Venaco, Corse Age Around 2 weeks Age 4–10 weeks Age 1 month Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), ball Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), round Size Various Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), triangular Milk Goat Milk Ewe Classification Aged fresh Classification Semi-soft 96 Size H. 31⁄2in (9cm), W. 1in (2.5cm) Producer Various Producer Pierucci Dairy Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Producer Various

U Pecurinu Valençay AOC Venaco U Pecurinu is a dense washed-rind It is said that this cheese was once named after a small picturesque france cheese from corsica, an island made in the shape of a pyramid, but on village in central corsica where it was renowned for its unique and flavorful seeing it, napoleon became angry once made, this is one of the best cheeses, thanks to its warm climate, because it reminded him of his known corsican cheeses. It is a robust local breeds, and wild and egyptian defeat and he angrily washed-rind fermier cheese and is best diverse grazing. chopped off the top with his sword, when produced between spring and TaSTInG nOTeS This semi-soft cheese is creating a truncated shape. Valençay fall, the milk benefiting from the sheep tender and buttery and has a complex has been aOc protected since 1998. grazing lush pastures. herbaceous flavor with vegetal TaSTInG nOTeS This natural-rinded TaSTInG nOTeS Beneath its thin and overtones. The repeated washing leaves cheese is covered in salted charcoal sticky orange rind, the paste is dense a lingering meaty tang and pungent ashes. It has a soft, moist paste and yet soft and sticky with a full-bodied farmyard aroma. a mild and slightly nutty flavor. and very spicy taste. HOW TO enJOY corsicans often eat this HOW TO enJOY Valençay is delicious HOW TO enJOY Spread sparingly on bread cheese with fig jam; a fruity red wine paired with all fruity and lively white with herbs, garlic, or olive oil for an makes the perfect accompaniment. wines of the Berry and Touraine excellent snack. Sharp and tasty, it is regions of france, especially Sancerre. best with big reds like Gigondas. FRANCE Corse FRANCE Centre region FRANCE Corse 97 Age 2–16 weeks Age 5 weeks Age 3–4 months Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), round Weight and Shape 7–9oz (200–250g), Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 10oz Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) truncated pyramid (500–750g), round Milk Ewe Size D. 21⁄2–3in (6–7cm) base, 1–11⁄2in Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Classification Semi-soft (3.5–4cm) top, 21⁄2–3in (H. 6–7cm) Milk Ewe Producer Various Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh Producer Various Producer Various

FrAnce 98 SELLES-SUR-CHER Over the fine ash coating, a fine, velvetlike white Penicillium candidum mold is overlaid by splotches of blue-gray Penicillium glaucum. As the cheese dries out, the original skin shrinks and wrinkles. (See p88).