[Lonely Planet] Morocco

PDF Morocco PDF ebook Edition 11th Edition Release Date Aug 2014 Pages 520 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 1 Sights 4 Sleeping PLAN YOUR TRIP r Beaches 5 Eating Your planning tool kit Photos & suggestions to help 2 Activities 6 Drinking you create the perfect trip. C Courses 3 Entertainment 2 T Tours 7 Shopping ON THE ROAD z Festivals & 8 I&nfTorramnsaptioornt Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use Events maps and insider tips. All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, 3 starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we UNDERSTAND suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Get more from your trip Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Learn about the big picture, to range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these make sense of what you see. ranges, by author preference. 4 These symbols give vital information for each listing: SURVIVAL GUIDE Must-visit recommendation Your at-a-glance reference Vital practical information Sustainable or green recommendation for a smooth trip. No payment required % Telephone number E English-language menu h Opening hours c Family-friendly p Parking # Pet-friendly n Nonsmoking g Bus a Air-conditioning f Ferry i Internet access j Tram W Wi-fi access d Train s Swimming pool v Vegetarian selection For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Morocco Mediterranean Coast & the Rif p220 Atlantic Imperial Cities, Coast Middle Atlas & the East p153 p281 Marrakesh & Central Morocco p46 Southern Morocco & Western Sahara p357 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Paul Clammer, James Bainbridge, Paula Hardy, Helen Ranger

PLAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP SCHULTHEISS SELECTION GMBH & COKG/GETTY IMAGES © Welcome to Morocco. . . . . 4 MARRAKESH & CENTRAL Taouz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Morocco Map . . . . . . . . . . . 6 MOROCCO. . . . . . . . . . 46 NIKKI BIDGOOD/GETTY IMAGES © Morocco’s Top 17 . . . . . . . . 8 Rissani to Zagora. . . . . . 150 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 16 Marrakesh. . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Alnif . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Tazzarine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 21 Around Marrakesh. . . . . . 83 N’Kob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Ouirgane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Morocco Outdoors. . . . . . 29 ATLANTIC COAST . . . 153 Trekking in Morocco . . . . 32 The High Atlas . . . . . . . . . 84 Travel with Children. . . . 40 Central High Atlas . . . . . . . 84 Casablanca . Regions at a Glance. . . . . 43 Western High Atlas . . . . . . 96 (Dar el-Baïda). . . . . . . . . . . 155 Toubkal National Park. . . 100 Rabat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 TEA SERVICE, MARRAKESH Tizi n’Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Salé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 (P76) Moulay Bousselham . . . . 190 The Southern Oases . . . 109 Larache . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 COUSCOUS WITH TAJINE Tizi n’Tichka. . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Lixus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 (P434) Telouet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Assilah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Aït Benhaddou. . . . . . . . . . 110 El-Jadida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Ouarzazate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Azemmour. . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Oualidia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Drâa Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Safi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205 Agdz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Essaouira . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Tamnougalt. . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Circuits Touristiques. . . . . 120 MEDITERRANEAN Timidarte. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 COAST & THE RIF. . . 220 Zagora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Tamegroute . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 West Mediterranean M’Hamid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 West of Erg Chigaga . . . . . 127 Tangier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Cap Spartel . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Dadès Valley & Ceuta (Sebta) . . . . . . . . . 239 the Gorges . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Skoura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 The Rif Mountains . . . . . 245 Kelaâ M’Gouna . . . . . . . . . 130 Tetouan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Boumalne du Dadès . . . . . 131 Chefchaouen . . . . . . . . . . 252 Trekking Jebel Saghro. . . . 132 Oued Laou . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Dadès Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Targa to El-Jebha . . . . . . . . 261 Tinerhir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Al-Hoceima . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Todra Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Al-Hoceima . Tinejdad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 265 Goulmima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Cala Iris & Torres . de Alcala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Ziz Valley & the Tafilalt . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Trekking in the Rif Er-Rachidia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Mountains: Talassemtane Erfoud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 National Park . . . . . . . . 266 Rissani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Merzouga. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147

Contents UNDERSTAND DOUG PEARSON/GETTY IMAGES © SOUTHERN MOROCCO Morocco Today. . . . . . . 406 & WESTERN History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 CAMEL DRIVER, AÏT SAHARA . . . . . . . . . . 357 A Day in the Life of BENHADDOU (P110) Morocco. . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 The Souss Valley . . . . . . 359 Moroccan Cuisine. . . . . . 431 Chefchaouen to . Agadir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 Bab Taza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Souss-Massa . Literature & Cinema . . 443 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 366 Art & Crafts. . . . . . . . . . 446 East Mediterranean Taroudannt . . . . . . . . . . . . 369 Architecture . . . . . . . . . 452 Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Taliouine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Natural Wonders. . . . . . . 457 Melilla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Nador. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 The Anti Atlas . . . . . . . . 375 SURVIVAL Saïdia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Tafraoute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375 GUIDE Ameln Valley & . IMPERIAL CITIES, Jebel L’Kest . . . . . . . . . . . 380 Directory A‒Z. . . . . . . . 464 MIDDLE ATLAS & THE Tata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . 482 EAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492 Trekking in the Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 497 Imperial Cities . . . . . . . . 283 Anti Atlas. . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 Fez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Jebel Siroua . . . . . . . . . . . 384 SPECIAL Sefrou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 FEATURES Bhalil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Southern Atlantic Meknès . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 Trekking in Volubilis (Oualili) . . . . . . . 335 Tiznit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 Morocco. . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Moulay Idriss . . . . . . . . . . 338 Aglou Plage . . . . . . . . . . . 388 Medina Life. . . . . . . . . 291 Mirleft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 Natural Middle Atlas . . . . . . . . . . 339 Sidi Ifni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 Landscapes. . . . . . . . . 313 Ifrane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Goulimime . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 Azrou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 Tan Tan & . Midelt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Tan Tan Plage . . . . . . . . . . 396 Tarfaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 The East. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Taza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Western Sahara . . . . . . 399 Jebel Tazzeka Circuit. . . . 350 Laâyoune (Al-‘Uyun) . . . 400 Oujda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Dakhla (Ad-Dakhla) . . . . 402

4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Morocco Morocco is one of the most diverse countries in Africa, with high mountains, sweeping desert, rugged coastline, and the winding alleyways of ancient medina cities and souqs. Mountains & Desert Moroccan Activities From Saharan dunes to the peaks of the Meeting the Moroccan people involves High Atlas, Morocco could have been tailor- nothing more than sitting in a cafe and made for travellers. Lyrical landscapes waiting for your mint tea to brew. The carpet this sublime slice of North Africa trick is to leave enough time to watch the like the richly coloured and patterned rugs world go by with the locals when there’s so you’ll lust after in local cooperatives. The much else to fit in: hiking up North Africa’s mountains – the famous High Atlas but also highest peak, learning to roll couscous, the Rif and suntanned ranges leading to camel trekking, shopping in the souqs, Saharan oases – offer simple, breathtaking getting lost in the medina, and sweating pleasures: night skies glistening in the thin in the hammam. Between the activities, air, and views over a fluffy cloudbank from you can sleep in the famous riads, relax on the Tizi n’Test pass. On lower ground, there panoramic terraces and grand squares, and are rugged coastlines, waterfalls, and caves mop up tajines flavoured with saffron and in forested hills – and the mighty desert. argan. Traditional Life Ancient Medinas The varied terrain may inform your dreams, Often exotic, sometimes overwhelming and but it shapes the very lives of Morocco’s always unexpected, these ancient centres Berbers, Arabs and Saharawis. Despite en- are bursting with Maghrebi mystique and croaching modernity, with motorways join- madness: the perfect complement to the ing mosques and kasbahs as features of the serene countryside. When you hit the town landscape, Moroccan people remain closely and join the crowds, you follow a fine tra- connected to the environment. Nomadic dition of nomads and traders stretching southern ‘Blue Men’ brave the desert’s burn- back centuries. Unesco has bestowed World ing expanses in robes and turbans, mobile Heritage status on the Fez medina, the phones in hand. Traditional life continues – world’s largest living medieval Islamic city, with tweaks – in the techniques of Berber and on the carnivalesque street theatre of carpet makers, in date cooperatives, in the Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh. medina spice trading, and in the lifestyles in mountain hamlets and ports like Essaouira.

UGURHAN BETIN/ GETTY IMAGES © 5 Why I Love Morocco By Paul Clammer, Author I first went to Morocco as a backpacking student in 1993. I didn’t plan it – another trip had fallen through – but it was one of the happiest accidents of my life. I got wonderfully lost in the medina in Fez, got blisters climbing Jebel Toubkal and sunburn in the desert in Merzou- ga, and was hypnotised by the grand spectacle of Marrakesh’s Djemaa el-Fna. Most impor- tantly, I was inspired to come back, and over the past 20 years I’ve spent more time exploring this amazing land than any other country on the planet. For more about our authors, see p520 Above: Fez medina (p284)





8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Morocco’s Top 17

9 Djemaa el-Fna Fez Medina Street Theatre 2 The Fez medina (p284) is the maze to 1 Circuses can’t compare to the mad- end all mazes. The only way to experi- cap, Unesco-acclaimed halqa (street ence it is to plunge in head first, and don’t theatre) in Marrakesh’s main square (p50). be afraid of getting lost – follow the flow By day, ‘La Place’ draws crowds with as- of people to take you back to the main trologers, snake-charmers, acrobats and thoroughfare, or pay a local to show you dentists with jars of pulled teeth. Around the way. It’s an adventure into a medieval sunset, 100 restaurant stalls kick off the world of hidden squares, enormous stud- world’s most raucous grilling competition. ded doors and colourful souqs (markets). ‘I teach Jamie Oliver everything he knows!’ Remember to look up and see intricate brags a chef. ‘We’re number one…liter- plasterwork, magnificent carved cedar- ally!’ jokes the cook at stall number one. wood and curly Arabic calligraphy, while at After dinner, Djemaa music jam sessions your feet are jewel-like mosaics. get under way – audience participation is always encouraged, and spare change ensures encores. UGURHAN BETIN/GETTY IMAGES © TIM BARKER/GETTY IMAGES ©

10 PLAN YOUR TRIP Morocco’s Top 17 Drâa Valley Kasbah Trail The High Atlas 3 Roads now allow speedy passage 4 Hemmed in by the cracked and fis- through the final stretches of ancient sured summit of Aroudane (3359m), caravan routes from Mali to Marrakesh, the valley of Zaouiat Ahansal (p88) is but beyond the rocky gorges glimpsed characterised by kilometres of cliffs, soar- through car windows lies the Drâa Valley ing buttresses and dramatic slot canyons. of desert-traders’ dreams. The palms and With the arrival of a paved road in 2013, this mud-brick castles of Tamegroute (p124), awesome natural canvas is just beginning to Zagora (p120), Timidarte (p120) and Agdz attract attention. For rafters and kayakers (p118) must once have seemed like mirages the valley is a green jewel where rafts whip after two months in the Sahara. Fortifica- between 2.5m-wide limestone walls; for tions that housed caravans are now open climbers and trekkers the extreme topogra- to guests, who wake to fresh dates, bread phy and huge routes offer ridiculous views baked in rooftop ovens, and this realisation: and a thrilling sense of wilderness. speed is overrated. 3 DOUGLAS PEARSON/GETTY IMAGES © 4 KODIAK GREENWOOD/GETTY IMAGES ©

THOMAS DRESSLER/GETTY IMAGES © DOUG PEARSON/GETTY IMAGES © 11PLAN YOUR TRIP Morocco’s Top 17 56 7 TIM E WHITE/GETTY IMAGES © Life in the Tafraoute Surfing Palmeraies 6 Tafraoute (p375) has a 7 You can surf all along 5 Thick with palms and jumble of pink houses Morocco’s Atlantic networked by com- and market streets with ex- coast, but the best place munal wells and khettara traordinary surroundings. to catch waves is Tag- (irrigation channels), the The Ameln Valley is dotted hazout (p367). It’s clear palmeraies (palm groves) with palmeraies and Berber what floats the village’s of Figuig (p355), Ziz Valley villages, and the looming board as soon as you ar- (p142), Tinejdad (p141), mountains stage a twice- rive: the usual cafes and Tinerhir (p137) and Skoura daily, ochre-and-amber téléboutiques are joined by (p128) are the historical light show. With a relatively surf shops, where locals lifeblood of the Moroccan undeveloped tourist indus- and incomers wax boards south. Even today they try, despite the region’s and wax lyrical about the continue to play a vital role many charms, it’s a won- nearby beaches. On the in oasis life, with plots be- derful base for activities same stretch of coast neath the shaded canopy including mountain biking between Agadir and Es- providing a surprising and seeking out prehistoric saouira, Tamraght (p367) bounty of barley, toma- rock carvings (p379). As if and Sidi Kaouki (p218) are toes, mint, pomegranates, the granite cliffs and oases also set up for surfing; fur- apricots, figs and almonds weren’t scenic enough, a ther south, Mirleft (p389) sustaining generation after Belgian artist applied his is Morocco’s newest surf generation. paint brush to some local destination, with an annual boulders (p379) – with longboard championship. surreal results. Beach at Taghazout (p367)

12 10 8 PLAN YOUR TRIP Morocco’s Top 17 ASILAH MOROCCO/ALAMY © ALDO PAVAN/GETTY IMAGES © 9 SUSANNA WYATT/GETTY IMAGES © Assilah Fès Festival of Anti Atlas Medina Art World Trekking Sacred Music 8 In a refreshing take on 10 A granite range lead- graffiti, large expanses 9 With intimate concerts ing to the Sahara, the of walls in Assilah medina in mosaic-studded Anti Atlas remains unex- (p195) are adorned with riads, harmonic afternoons plored compared with the colourful murals. In July at the Batha Museum, High Atlas. The star attrac- every year, local and for- mesmerising Sufi Nights tion is the quartz massif eign artists are invited to in a Pasha’s garden and of Jebel L’Kest (p383), the contribute to the Assilah grand performances in the ‘amethyst mountain’, which Festival by painting the magnificent crenellated you can walk to through the walls. Some murals, like Bab al Makina, this festival lush Ameln Valley. More those near the El-Khamra (p311) still charms and farming villages and crum- Tower or the lookout at the impresses after 20 years. bling kasbahs are found Koubba of Sidi Mansur, are A love of music that engen- around Jebel Aklim (p384), huge. But you might round ders harmony between another of the excellent a bend in the medina and civilisations and religions trekking possibilities in spot a small corner down is the cornerstone here: it this area of blue skies and an alleyway that has been could be Mongolian fiddles Berber shepherds. The brightly decorated. or whirling dervishes, Sufi landscape has enough qawwali or Persian maqām, variety, from palm-filled Irish laments or African gorges to brooding, vol- drums. Qawwali singers, Faiz Ali canic Jebel Siroua (p384), Faiz ensemble to justify multiple treks.

13 Moulay Idriss Sidi Ifni PLAN YOUR TRIP Morocco’s Top 17 11 Named for Morocco’s most revered 12 Shhh! Don’t tell your friends, but saint, this little town (p338) con- this formerly Spanish seaside town tains his mausoleum and is one of the (p390), a camel ride from the Sahara, is most important pilgrimage spots in the every bit as dilapidated, breezy and magical country. It straddles two hills and which- as well-trodden Essaouira. You can walk to ever side of town you’re on, the views the stone arches at Legzira Plage (p393), or across the green roofs and out to the roll- just explore the blue-and-white backstreets ing countryside beyond are arrestingly of one of southern Morocco’s most alluring pretty, especially in the evening light. At hang-outs. The best time to appreciate the the very top is Morocco’s only cylindrical art-deco relics – more reminiscent of Cuba minaret, which is well worth the climb, than Casa – is sunset, when the Atlantic while spread at its feet are olive groves winds bend the palms and fill the air with a that produce a fragrantly tasty oil. cooling sea mist. Legzira Plage (p393) 11 SEAN CAFFREY/GETTY IMAGES © 12 THOMAS DRESSLER/GETTY IMAGES ©

14 PLAN YOUR TRIP Morocco’s Top 17 Volubilis Camel Trekking in the Sahara 13 Berber king Juba II, his wife the 14 When you pictured dashing into daughter of Antony and Cleopatra, the sunset on your trusty steed, was installed at Volubilis (p335) by the Ro- you probably didn’t imagine there’d be mans. The town became a thriving farming quite so much lurching involved. Don’t community producing olive oil, wheat and worry: no one is exactly graceful clamber- wine for the Roman army. Stand on the ba- ing onto a saddled hump. But even if your silica steps today, look out over the same dromedary leaves you knock-kneed, you’ll fertile fields and survey his kingdom. This instinctively find your way to the summit World Heritage site has few rules about of the dunes at nightfall. Stars have never where you can walk, little signage and lots seemed clearer, and with good reason: at of storks nesting on column-tops. It has Erg Chigaga (p125), you’re not only off the some dazzling mosaics and a brand-new grid, but several days’ camel trek from the museum. nearest streetlights. 13 DON KLUMPP/GETTY IMAGES © 14 DOUGLAS PEARSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

GARY CONNER/GETTY IMAGES © WALTER BIBIKOW/GETTY IMAGES © 15PLAN YOUR TRIP Morocco’s Top 17 15 16 17 JULIAN LOVE/GETTY IMAGES © Chefchaouen Taroudannt Casablanca’s Medina Architectural 16 With views of both Heritage 15 Steep and cobbled, the High Atlas and the Chefchaouen Anti Atlas, this Souss Val- 17 If anyone tells you medina (p253) tumbles ley trading centre (p369) is there’s nothing to down the mountainside known as Little Marrakesh, see in Casablanca except in a shower of red roofs, offering a medina and the Hassan II Mosque, wrought-iron balconies souqs without the big-city they haven’t looked up. and geraniums. The blue- hustlers. Day trippers from Dating from the early 20th washed lanes enchant, Agadir will certainly find it century, when Casa was making the town a photo­ charming. The town’s red- the jewel of the French grapher’s dream come true. mud ramparts are unique, colonies, a wealth of With a grand red-hued kas- changing colour according Mauresque and art-deco bah lording it over the cafe- to the time of day. Circle buildings can be found in packed main square, you the 7.5km perimeter by the downtown areas, with could be content for hours foot, bike or horse-drawn rounded corners, tumbling just people-watching over calèche, then return to the friezes of flowers and a mint tea. Alternatively, medina through one of the curved wrought-iron balco- amble down the riverside gates. After the sunset nies. Some buildings have walk, stroll to the Spanish glow fades from the walls, been cared for while others mosque on the hill or even the town is a relaxing, are shamefully neglected. venture into the surrounding everyday place with some The Casablanca walking Talassemtane National Park good restaurants. tour (p164) showcases to explore the Rif Mountains. most of them.

16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p463) Currency When to Go Dirham (Dh) Desert, dry climate Tangier Dry climate # GO May–Jun & Sep Language Mild summers, cold winters Fez GO Apr–Jun & Sep # Moroccan Arabic (Darija) Berber # High Atlas French # GO May–Jun GO MaMr–aJrurnak&esOhct–Nov Money Sahara ATMs widely avail- GO Sep–Nov # able. Major credit cards widely accepted in main High Season Shoulder Low Season tourist centres. (Nov–Mar) (Apr & Oct) (May–Sep) Visas ¨¨Spring and ¨¨Spring ¨¨Discounts in autumn are the most sandstorms in accommodation and Not required for most popular times to the Sahara and souqs (markets). nationalities for stays of visit. persistent rain in the ¨¨Domestic tourism up to 90 days. Passports ¨¨Accommodation north. keeps prices high on must be valid for six prices are highest. ¨¨Popular the coast. months beyond date ¨¨Marrakesh and the elsewhere. ¨¨Ramadan will fall of entry. south are popular at ¨¨Accommodation between late May Christmas and New prices and demand and late July during Mobile Phones Year, but the north of jump around Easter. the lifetime of this the country can be guidebook. GSM phones work on chilly. roaming. For unlocked phones, local prepaid mobile SIM cards are a cheaper option (about Dh20). Time GMT/UTC

17 Useful Websites Daily Costs Arriving in PL AN YOUR TRIP N eed to K now Morocco The View from Fez (http:// Budget: riadzany.blogspot.com) News Less than Dh350 Mohammed V International and opinions. ¨¨Basic double (shared Airport (Casablanca; p171) bathroom): from Dh50 Trains to Casa Voyageurs station Visit Morocco (www.visit ¨¨Soup or sandwich: Dh4–30 (Dh40, 35 minutes) run hourly morocco.com) Moroccan ¨¨Four-hour local bus trip: from 6am to 10pm, and again National Tourist Office website. Dh60 at midnight. A taxi to central Casablanca (45 minutes) is Maroc Mama (http://maroc Midrange: Dh300 to Dh350. mama.com) Food and travel Dh550–1000 blog from Marrakesh. ¨¨Admission to sights: Tanger Med ferry terminal Dh10–50 (p237) Shuttle buses to central Al-Bab (www.al-bab.com/ ¨¨Hotel room: Dh400–800 Tangier (Dh25, 45 minutes) run maroc) Handy links. ¨¨Dinner main: Dh70–150 hourly. Menara Airport (Marrakesh; Lonely Planet (www.lonely Midrange: p81) Bus to central Marrakesh planet.com/morocco) Info, More than Dh1400 (Dh30) every 20 minutes. A bookings and forums. ¨¨Hire car: Dh300 taxi to central Marrakesh costs ¨¨Day tour: Dh300 Dh70/100 day/night. Private Important ¨¨Double in a city riad: from hotel transfers in the city are Numbers Dh1000 Dh170 to Dh200. Dial the local four-digit area Opening Hours Getting Around code even if you are dialling from the same town or code Morocco keeps the Western Transport in Morocco is reason- area. working week, but some ably priced, and mostly quick businesses may close early and efficient. Ambulance %15 or completely on the Muslim Train Reasonably priced, with Fire %15 prayer day or Friday. Opening good coverage and frequent Police (city) %19 hours may vary departures between the major Police %177 Banks 8.30am to 6.30pm cities, but no lines in the south (countryside) Monday to Friday or along the Mediterranean Restaurants noon to 3pm and coast. Exchange Rates 7pm to 10pm (cafes generally Car Useful for travelling at your open earlier and close later) own pace, or for visiting regions Australia A$1 Dh7.24 Shops 9am to 12.30pm and with minimal public transport. Canada C$1 Dh7.37 2.30pm to 8pm Monday to Cars can be hired in every town Europe €1 Dh11.22 Saturday or city. Drive on the right, but Japan ¥100 Dh7.95 beware erratic local drivers. Maurita- UM100 Dh2.84 Bus Cheaper and slower than nia trains, ranging from modern New NZ$1 Dh6.80 coaches to rickety local affairs. Zealand Useful for destinations not UK UK£1 Dh13.62 serviced by trains. USA US$1 Dh8.22 Taxi Mercedes ‘grands taxis’ run set routes between nearby For currency exchange rates see towns and cities. Cheap but www.xe.com. cramped. For much more on getting around, see p485

1 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd If You Like… Medinas Craft & Culture Off the Beaten Track If you pause for a moment Whether you want to catch in the medina, stepping out some Gnaoua (bluesy music Morocco’s small towns and of the stream of shoppers, developed by freed slaves), picturesque villages are you can watch Morocco’s see the Maghreb’s hottest ideal for unwinding and very essence flash by. These contemporary art or forever meeting the locals over ancient, crowded quarters – transform your mantel with mint tea. with winding lanes, dead quality craftwork, Morocco Afella-Ighir The road to these ends, riad hotels, piles of will inundate you with oasis villages is little visited; spices, traders, tea drink- options. in Tiwadou, stay in an auberge ers, and a sensory assault Taroudannt Pick up Chleuh with a local museum. (p379) around every corner – offer silver jewellery, influenced by a strong dose of Morocco’s Saharan tribes and Jewish sil- Agdz Watch other travellers famous Maghrebi mystique. versmiths, in the souqs. (p369) hurry along the Drâa Valley Fez The planet’s largest living from your relaxing vantage Islamic medieval city and its Fès Festival of World Sacred point amid the palmeraie (palm biggest car-free urban environ- Music In June, Morocco’s grove) and mudbrick kasbahs of ment, with donkeys trekking to premier music festival features Agdz. (p118) tanneries in the leather district. international names and inti- (p284) mate concerts by tariqas (Sufi Imilchil The Middle Atlas village orders). (p311) is famous for its marriage Marrakesh Exuberant Mar- Marrakesh Shop beyond the moussem (festival), but the rakshis course between souqs souqs, alongside design fanat- journey there is stunning year- (markets), palaces and the ics in Quartier Industriel Sidi round. (p140) Djemaa el-Fna within the me- Ghanem, and collectors in the dina’s 19km of ramparts. (p47) hip art galleries of Guèliz. (p47) Midelt Between the Middle and Carpets Compared with the High Atlas, visit the surrounding Tangier Hop off the ferry for cities, towns like Ouarzazate and villages and kasbahs, enjoy the a fitting introduction to North Tafraoute have cooperatives, mountain views and leave with a Africa in this gem of a medina, ensembles and shops that are carpet. (p344) contained by the walls of a 15th- low-pressure spots to bag a century Portuguese fortress. tasselled souvenir. (p116) Tarfaya Clean up in a tented (p222) Tangier The American Legation pool hall near a shipwrecked Museum contains the ‘Moroccan ferry, and watch the Saharawi Chefchaouen Medinas aren’t Mona Lisa’ and a wing devoted world go by. (p397) always like diving from the top to Paul Bowles, William Bur- board; smaller, stylish examples roughs and the Beat writers’ Around Essaouira Leave the include this Andalucian-blue associates in Tangier. (p224) crowds in the medina and one. (p253) follow the surf trail south to Sidi Kaouki and Taghazout. (p218) (p367)

DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES © 19PL AN YOUR TRIP I f Yo u L ike … TIM E WHITE/GETTY IMAGES © Food Adventures (Above) Decorating pottery, Fez (p283) Morocco offers culinary (Below) Prayer time, Marrakesh medina (p58) adventures from couscous rolling to eating camel tajine. Fez On a culinary course or walk- ing tour, pack your tanjia (slow- cooked stew) at the butcher’s, then leave it to cook in the ham- mam’s woodfired oven. (p300) Desert food Learn Saharawi recipes or the secrets of elaborate traditional couscous at M’Hamid’s Saharan retreats. (p87) Marrakesh Buy ingredients at the souq, learn to cook like a dadas (chef) and feast on the results in the comfort of a riad. (p64) Seafood Buy your dinner fresh off the boat in Al-Hoceima port, or try Atlantic catches at Es- saouira’s fish souq and outdoor fish grills. (p261) (p208) Taliouine Tour saffron and argan producers and learn how to make a saffron-tinted tajine. (p374) Demnate Try local almonds, olive oil and wildflower honey, and choose between 40 restaurants in this Berber foodie hub near Marrakesh. (p84) Architecture Morocco’s buildings, wheth- er reinvented as a boutique medina retreat or crumbling into a hillside, reflect the country’s long history as a cultural melting pot. Ali ben Youssef Medersa Inside this splendid 14th-century theo- logical seminary in Marrakesh are five-colour zellij (tilework) walls and stucco archways. (p51) Art deco The Atlantic Coast has some wonderful art-deco archi- tecture, mostly in Casablanca, where it influenced the local Mauresque style, and in white- and-blue Sidi Ifni. (p164) (p390)

20 PL AN YOUR TRIP I f Yo u L ike … Kairaouine Mosque and Uni- Beaches Figuig It’s worth trekking east to versity One of Africa’s largest Morocco’s oasis par excellence, mosques and the world’s oldest Its coastline stretching with palmeraies, ksour and universities, this 1150-year-old from the Mediterranean to views of Algeria. (p355) complex in Fez has a green the Sahara, Morocco packs Erg Chigaga Enlist a ‘Blue Man’ pyramidal roof. (p285) in beaches for every taste in M’Hamid, where dunes nuzzle Essaouira The town’s name between its coves, cliffs, against the guesthouses, to means ‘well designed’, and it still boardwalks and ports. find this 40km stretch of sand suits the whitewashed medina Some are fit for family fun, mountains reaching 300m. behind 18th-century seafront others wait for development (p125) ramparts. (p208) to happen, and many are Drâa Valley Timbuktu-bound Rissani On a 21km loop, you can untrodden apart from the caravans once passed through see a zawiya (shrine), a ruined odd surfer and migratory this desolate valley; now you Saharan trading post, multiple bird. can board a ‘ship of the desert’ ksour and a museum about Marabout’s Beach With its (read: camel) to palm-shaded life in the fortified strongholds. eponymous saint’s tomb and oases. (p118) (p145) savage rocks, this is the most dramatic of Mirleft’s half-dozen Atlantic beaches. (p389) Berber Culture Agadir The city is a concrete Mountains grid, but its long, curving beach, Morocco’s proud in- clean and well lit at night, will With Berber villages nes- digenous people are a have families scrambling for tling beneath snowy peaks, memorable part of many buckets and spades. (p359) the High Atlas is one of the travellers’ journeys here. Yellich Facing a small Mediter- world’s most awe-inspiring Their Amazigh colour and ranean island you can walk to; mountain ranges. Whether character are a big part of visit Yellich and Cala Iris’ other you want to climb, trek, special spots such as Mar- beaches before the fishing vil- experience rural life or rakesh and the Atlas. lage becomes a resort. (p266) just escape the rat race Regional costumes Women Tangier Escape the city on a far below, Morocco’s other display their local allegiances; day trip to Plage Robinson, at mountains are also worth from black shawls and colourful the northwestern extremity exploring. dresses around Tata to Riffian of Africa’s Atlantic Coast, or Jebel Toubkal Trek to the top hats and candy-striped skirts in Ksar es-Seghir on the Strait of of North Africa for thin air and Tangier. (p381) (p222) Gibraltar. (p238) (p239) views across the High Atlas. (p103) Demnate Just 1½ hours from Marrakesh, immersion in Ameln Valley Stay in a traditional village house among indigenous culture and cuisine palmeraies and the gold-pink awaits, with Morocco’s best olive Anti Atlas. (p380) oil and a Berber Romeo and Deserts Middle Atlas Around towns like Juliet. (p84) Azrou and Midelt, the mellower Imilchil marriage moussem Morocco’s Saharan ex- northern Atlas range is ideal Berbers look for marriage panses are some of Africa’s for day hikes though hills and material in the Middle Atlas safest and most evocative forests. (p342) (p344) village. (p140) places to experience the Jebel el-Kelaâ There’s more to Maison Tiskiwin Understand great desert. Not only can the Rif than kif crops – as you’ll how the Berbers tie into the rest you see curvy dunes and see from this peak, walkable in of North Africa in Marrakesh’s harsher hammada (stony a day from the idyllic mountain museum of trans-Saharan desert), you can also meet town of Chefchaouen. (p257) blue-robed Berbers and try the nomadic lifestyle. culture. (p55) Erg Chebbi This classic Saharan Eastern Atlas Barren, Martian- Al-Hoceima The seaside town sandscape, its dunes rising to red mountains overlook the Ziz is the unofficial capital of 160m, can be explored by camel, Gorges and the wedding-festival Morocco’s northern Berbers. 4WD or sandboard, followed by village of Imilchil. (p142) (p140) (p261) a night in a Berber tent. (p148)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 21 Month by Month TOP EVENTS 2 Marrakesh z Almond Blossom Fès Festival of World Marathon Festival Sacred Music, June The year-round Djemaa A very pretty festival held Festival of Popular el-Fna carnival acquires a in the Anti Atlas in spring, Arts, July sporty dimension with this when the Tafraoute area is Marriage Moussem, annual road race, when awash with blossoms. Tra- September 5000 marathoners cross ditionally about celebrating Marathon des Sables, the finish line on the the harvest in Morocco’s March grand square. The route almond capital, the festival Riffian Trekking, April follows the city ramparts is now also about local folk- and alleys of palms, lore, with singing, dancing, orange and olive trees. theatre and storytelling. (p66) (p377) January February 2 Marathon des Moroccan winter: the Winter continues: the Sables north is wet and snow weather is generally poor, Starting and finishing in makes many mountains although drier, balmier Morocco’s movie town, impassable for trekkers spots such as Marrakesh Ouarzazate, the Saharan and even motorists. and Agadir are bearable. ultramarathon is as epic as Marrakesh and the south Outside overlanders and films made in ‘Ouallywood’. receive the most tourists, city-breakers, few visitors The gruelling six-day chal- especially around New are spotted. lenge, held in March or Year. April, crosses 243km of March desert. Water is provided. z Moussem of Sidi (p113) The country wakes up ben Aïssa with the beginning April One of Morocco’s largest of spring, when the moussems (festivals) takes mountains thaw and the Springtime continues: the place at the Sufi saint’s wildflowers and almond country is lush and green mausoleum, outside the and cherry trees blossom. and temperatures are Meknès medina walls. Winds begin to disturb now reliably hot Public displays of glass- the desert and the Souss nationwide. Tourist eating, snake bites and Valley, continuing through numbers are high, ritual body piercing are April. particularly around Easter, no longer allowed, but when prices jump. fantasias (musket-firing cavalry charges), fairs and the usual singing and danc- ing are.

22 are still snowy. Northern around 30°C. The beaches z Festival of Sufi Morocco and the coast are are breezy, but busy with Culture good places to be. During domestic and European the Fès Festival of World tourists in the north. PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month Fez’ cultural festival hosts Sacred Music, there is events including films and major demand for local z Festival of lectures, and concerts with accommodation. Sufi musicians from around Popular Arts the world. The setting is the Andalucian-style garden of the Batha Museum, which z Gnaoua & World Unesco praised this street- is housed in a 19th-century theatre festival, a typically summer palace. (p302) Music Festival colourful Marrakshi event, This passionate celebra- as a ‘masterpiece of cul- 2 Riffian Trekking tion is held in Essaouira tural patrimony’. Djemaa on the third weekend of el-Fna is even more anar- Between the wet northern June, with concerts featur- chic than usual during the winter and fierce summer, ing international, national opening-night parade, fea- spring is perfect for trek- and local performers, and turing 500-plus performers. king trails in the Rif Moun- art exhibitions. It offers a (p66) tains. The best scenery is great chance to hear some found in Talassemtane Na- bluesy Gnaoua music, z Assilah Festival tional Park (p266), includ- developed here by freed ing the God’s Bridge rock slaves. (p211) Assilah confirms its arty formation and, closer to the leanings with this cultural Mediterranean, Al-Hoceima z Cherry Festival jamboree, which attracts National Park (p265). some 200,000 spectators Sleepy Sefrou awakes for to three weeks of public art May Morocco’s longest-running demonstrations, workshops, town festival, held in mid- concerts and exhibitions. A Prices drop in hotels June. Folk music, artists’ concurrent three-day horse displays, parades, fantasias festival features a fantasia. and sports events celebrate (p197) the cherry harvest – culmi- nating in the picturesque and souqs (markets) as crowning of the Cherry the tourist season ends, Queen. (p324) although the heaviest summer heat is yet z Fès Festival of August to come; the average temperature in Marrakesh World Sacred Music This month is a scorcher is about 28°C. Ideal for Organise tickets well in with an average of 40°C mountain trekking. advance for Fez’ successful in Marrakesh, and it can world-music festival, which easily exceed that in the z Rural Festivals has hosted the likes of interior. Head to southern Ravi Shankar and Youssou Atlantic beaches to avoid During the Festival du N’Dour. Equally impressive the crowds. Desert, Er-Rachidia hosts are the concerts by Moroc- performers from across can tariqas (Sufi orders); z Moussems the Sahara, including local fringe events include ex- Gnaoua band Les Pigeons hibitions, films and talks. During Morocco’s largest du Sable. Down the Dadès (p311) moussem, picturesque Valley, garlands come out whitewashed Moulay for Kelaâ M’Gouna’s festival Idriss fills with fanta- to celebrate the rose sias, markets and music. harvest. (p142) Five pilgrimages to this moussem are said to equal July one to Mecca. Moussems June also take place in Setti Snow melts from the Fatma, southeast of Mar- Summer is hotting up, mountains, the High Atlas rakesh, and Ouarzazate. is scorching and Ramadan (p338) adds intensity to the although High Atlas peaks temperatures, hovering

23 September (shrines); Fez’ Moussem of heading to the desert PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month Moulay Idriss sees a musi- or trekking nearby. With autumn, Morocco is cal, rosewater-showered Birdwatchers stake out once again prime territory procession through the me- wetlands, and Mauritania- for foreign travellers. dina; thousands of pilgrims bound overlanders roll Accommodation prices go head east to the moussem through. up, but everyone’s in high at Sidi Yahia Ben Younes spirits after Ramadan. (p352), which includes a 1 Harvests Beaches empty of local fantasia. (p302) holidaymakers and even Around the Immouzzer des the desert is pleasant, October Ida Outanane waterfalls with dates and gentle in the High Atlas foothills, breezes. Another popular month villagers climb into the to visit, although, north trees to shake olives from z TANJAzz of the Middle Atlas, rain is the branches. In Taliouine, beginning to set in. Eid al- a festival celebrates the Attracting an ever-growing Adha interrupts transport saffron harvest, and you roster of international as and life in general for a few can see locals picking the well as local musicians, days in late October/early flowers. Tangier’s annual jazz fes- November. tival is a great way to take December in the cosmopolitan side 1 Rallye Toulouse of Morocco’s music scene. The country is busy at (p228) Saint-Louis the end of the month with In late September to Christmas holidaymakers. z Marriage early October, this event Snow closes High Atlas in Tarfaya remembers the passes, but the white Moussem colonial French airmail blanket is good news for At this famous three-day service that stopped here, skiers. marriage festival in the and its most famous pilot, Middle Atlas village of the writer Antoine de z Marrakesh Imilchil (p140), local Ber- Saint-Exupéry. Planes pass bers search for a partner. through here en route International Film Everyone looks their best, from Toulouse in France Festival sporting woollen cloaks, to Saint Louis in Senegal. The Marrakesh event lives white jellabas (flowing (p398) up to its name, with stars garments) and elaborate from Hollywood to Bolly- jewellery. November wood jetting in to walk the red carpet. The week z Religious This is a busy time in culminates in wildly eclec- Marrakesh and further tic awards shows – recent Moussems south, with more people honourees include Ben Hamdouchi Moussem (p84) Kingsley and Harvey Keitel. is a dance-off between re- (p66) ligious fraternities outside Demnate’s two zawiyas

24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Itineraries É •# Fez ATLANTIC Casablanca •# OCEAN •# Midelt Marrakesh Todra •# Gorge •# •# Aït Benhaddou Essaouira •# É •# Erg Chebbi É •# Merzouga ALGERIA 2WEEKS Essential Morocco Touch down in Casablanca, the commercial capital, and start with a tour of the stupen- dous Hassan II Mosque. Head by train to the easternmost imperial city of Fez, venerable heart of Moroccan religious and cultural life, with its ancient yet thriving medina. Next, head south over the Middle Atlas via Midelt, for your first startling taste of Moroccan kasbah architecture, and to shop for the region’s distinctive Berber carpets. Continue all the way to Merzouga, Morocco’s gateway to the Sahara. Saddle up your camel and sleep under the stars amid Morocco’s largest sand sea, the perfectly sculpted Erg Chebbi. Shadowing the High Atlas as you head west brings you to the sharp cleft of the Todra Gorge for a day’s hiking amid the canyons and palmeraies (palm groves). From here, head past Ouarzazate to Aït Benhaddou, with its fairytale-like 11th-century kasbah. En route to the Atlantic, check into a luxurious riad in Marrakesh, where you can spend as many sunsets as possible on the theatrical Djemaa el-Fna, and then don’t stop until you reach Essaouira, with its artsy seaside medina and fishing port.

25 ATLANTIC PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries OCEAN ‚ Tichka Ouarzazate É Plateau •# Taroudannt •# •# É Taliouine Agadir •# •# É •# Draâ Valley Jebel ‚L'Kest R Ameln Valley É Erg Chigaga •# Tafraoute •#•# •# Aït PMiearnrseosuBrlGeuoergse•#s•# •# Tata •# Ukas•#TiwadAokuka ALGERIA 3WEEKS Circling the South This itinerary takes you deep into the south for wild mountain and desert landscapes, far from clicking cameras, with plenty of activities to stimulate the mind and body. Agadir is a handy entry point, but adventurers will want to leave quickly. Head to tiny but vibey Tafraoute, surrounded by beautiful Anti Atlas scenery such as the Ameln Valley, with its lush palmeraies and pink-hued houses. Spend a few days trek- king through the valley and up Jebel L’Kest, bike past rock formations and engravings to the surreal Pierres Bleues (Painted Rocks), and continue south through the Aït Mansour Gorges. At the far end of the gorges, where the beautiful scenery belies the ancient slave routes that passed this way, stay in the Afella-Ighir oasis. Use Tiwadou as a base for more trekking or discovering the rock carvings at Ukas. By now you’ve developed a taste for Morocco’s secluded southern corners. Once back in Tafraoute, wind east through the Anti Atlas and descend to the equally silent and epic Sahara. The last stop before Jebel Bani and a whole lot of hammada (stony desert), Tata makes a convenient base for exploring the oases, kasbahs, agadirs (fortified granaries) and magnificent rock engravings in spots such as Akka. A dusty journey to the east, the yellow-gold dunes of Erg Chigaga are more remote and less visited than Merzouga. In nearby M’Hamid, find yourself a camel to lead you north into the kasbah-littered Drâa Valley. At the top of valley, head back towards the mountains. Commandeer a bike (mountain or motor), horse, mule or dromedary in film favourite Ouarzazate, where the stony desert landscape has been a celluloid stand-in for Tibet, Rome, Somalia and Egypt. Re- turn to the coast via Taliouine, where you can buy the world’s most expensive spice in Africa’s saffron capital. Pause here or in Taroudannt for a trekking reprise in a moun- tainous area such as the Tichka Plateau. With its red walls and backdrop of snow- capped peaks, Taroudannt has hassle-free echoes of Marrakesh. Its souqs and squares are pleasant places to relax, and it’s handy for Agadir’s Al-Massira Airport.

26 Bou-Ahmed Al-Hoceima Tangier •# É National Park Tetouan •#•#•# Al-Hoceima Chefchaouen •# •# •# É ATLANTIC ‚ Beni-Snassen OCEAN ‚ Mountains ‚ R •# Zegzel Gorge ‚ •# Oujda Akchour PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries É •# Fez •# Azrou ALGERIA 3WEEKS The Med & the Mountains In the north the Mediterranean littoral and the Rif Mountains have seen huge invest- ment from the government, and there are plans to push tourism in the area. But if you get in now, you’ll be ahead of the pack. Start in Tangier, ideally arriving by ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar to feel the thrill of crossing from Europe to Africa. In the mid-20th century, characters from gun- runners to Beatnik literati mixed in this legendary port city. After a few days taking in the history, nightlife and restaurants, skip inland to Tetouan, the old capital of Spanish Morocco, with its charming blend of Arab medina and Andalucian architecture. The Spanish left a lighter imprint on nearby Chefchaouen, nestled in the Rif Mountains, with its gorgeous blue-painted medina. It’s tempting to spend a string of sunsets listen- ing to the minarets chorus each other’s call to prayer, but this is a good trekking spot. You can head deep into the mountains on a five-day trek via riverside Akchour to Bou- Ahmed, a fishing village in the Oued Bouchia valley. Continue east along the coast to the proud, modern seaside resort Al-Hoceima, gate- way to the dry canyons and limestone cliffs of Al-Hoceima National Park. Walk to the park along the coast, or book a memorable tour including hiking or mountain biking and a homestay with a Berber family. En route to the Algerian border, there’s more fine scen- ery in the Beni-Snassen Mountains, which you can enjoy in a swimming pool with mountain views, or a 300-year-old rural lodge. With its gorges, caves, mesa and Barbary sheep, this verdant area is far removed from classic images of Morocco. In the Zegzel Gorge, pluck a cumquat and see why the Romans remarked on this small citrus fruit. From here, head to Oujda to refresh yourself with some city comforts, before taking the train to that grandest of imperial cities, Fez. Dive into the medina and relax in a riad, but if you find yourself missing the countryside, you can make an easy day (or several-day) trip into the cedar-clad Middle Atlas around the Berber market town of Azrou.

27 Tangier •# R Rif Mountains •# Chefchaouen ATLANTIC Meknès •# •# Fez PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries OCEAN •# Middle Atlas É Imilchil •# Midelt •#É‚ •# Ziz Gorges Essaouira •# Marrakesh •# •# •# Demnate É Taghazout •# É Todra •#Erg Chebbi É Gorges Tiznit •# Taroudannt ‚ Mirleft •# Tata •# •# Sidi Ifni •# Tarfaya •# ALGERIA 6WEEKS Highlights & Hidden Gems Climb off a ferry in famously decadent Tangier, with its Europe-facing medina, and head into the Rif Mountains. European influence continues in Chefchaouen, with its bright blue, Andalucian-tinted medina. Further south, the imperial cities Fez and Me- knès are more quintessentially Moroccan in their ancient medinas. After a few days of labyrinthine lanes and dye pits, you’ll be ready for more moun- tains. Wind through the Middle Atlas to the Berber village of Midelt, then on through the Martian landscape of the Ziz Gorges. It’s now just a few dusty hours to Erg Chebbi, the achingly beautiful expanse of rolling dunes, which you can explore on a camel or sandboard. Brush off the Sahara and return to the High Atlas at Todra Gorge. Hike between the enclosing rock walls, then jump in a market-bound truck through tiny villages and deeper into the mountains. Imilchil, surrounded by red rock and turquoise lakes, is the site of a wedding moussem (festival) in September. Descend through the Middle Atlas and turn southwest, pausing to refuel in Berber foodie and cultural hub Demnate. The next stop is Marrakesh, with its famous riad hotels, medina shopping and Djemaa el-Fna. Hit the Wild West coast at hippie-turned- boutique hang-out Essaouira, then head south to vibrant Taghazout, Morocco’s pre- mier surf spot. Then take the N10 to Taroudannt, the Souss Valley’s prettiest market town with its mud-walled medina and kasbah. Travel barren mountains and empty roads to Tata, a Saharan gateway where blue- robed guides can show you the desert. The road back to the Atlantic passes oases, palm- eraies, kasbahs, agadirs and rock carvings. Near the coast, detour north to the Tiznit jewellery souq, particularly if it’s a Thursday (market day). Arcing west and south, you come to Mirleft, with its pink-and-blue arches, and Sidi Ifni, a jumble of wind-whipped art-deco relics surrounded by coastal walks. End your journey on the edge of the Western Sahara in sandy, gloriously isolated Tarfaya.

28 ATsasnilgahie•#r •# Volubilis ATLANTIC Moulay Idriss OCEAN Fez Sefrou É RABAT _# Meknès Middle Atlas ÉATLANTIC ÉEl-Jadida •# Oualidia •# OCEAN PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Essaouira •# HighMAtolauslay Idriss •# •# Fez Diabat •# VoMluebkinlièss•#•# •# Sefrou Sidi Kaouki •# Agadir •# Mirleft •# Sidi Ifni •# ALGERIA High Atlas •# •# Marrakesh 3WEEKS Atlantic Adventure 1DA0YS Empire & Atlas Morocco’s Atlantic seaboard takes you This trip begins in two cities once ruled by from the clamour of the north to the enlightened dynasties. Throw back a shot quieter coastline of the south. of Maghrebi exoticism in Fez, where mod- ern Morocco and its rich past crowd for Take the ferry from Spain to Tangier, at space in the extraordinary medina. Next, once a quintessentially Moroccan mosaic catch your breath in nearby Meknès, by- and a decadent outpost of Europe. Catch passed by many travellers despite its echoes the train south, first to artsy Assilah, of Sultan Moulay Ismail’s glory days. with its whitewashed charms, and then to \\Rabat, with its colonial architecture A detour north takes you to Volubilis, and palm-lined boulevards. Follow subur- Morocco’s best-preserved ancient city, and banites to the sleepy ‘Cité Portugaise’, El- testament to the Roman Empire’s astonish- Jadida, then take the spectacular ocean ing breadth. Nearby Moulay Idriss, with road to Oualidia, the St Tropez lookalike the mausoleum of the founder of Morocco’s with a perfect crescent lagoon. first imperial dynasty, is another wonder- ful antidote to urban clamour. Further south, the hippies once gravi- tated to Essaouira, and its white-walled Unless you’re a completist and want to ramparts, bohemian beat and renovated visit all four Moroccan imperial cities, skip riads still make travellers linger. When Rabat and head into the Middle Atlas. you’ve eaten your fill at the outdoor fish We’ve suggested a few stops in our Moroc- grills, follow Jimi Hendrix and today’s can Odyssey itinerary; another is the Ber- surfers to the peaceful beaches at Diabat ber town of Sefrou, its medina pierced by and Sidi Kaouki. the Oued Aggaï, 30km south of Fez. Take the cross-country route via Beni Mellal, Past more surf spots, Agadir is a skirting the edge of the High Atlas to the family-friendly seaside resort, but the icon of contemporary Morocco: Marra- beaches and boutique accommodation of kesh. The city’s souqs, street performers Mirleft are more appealing, as is art-deco and imperial architecture form an intoxi- Sidi Ifni. cating mix.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 29 Plan Your Trip Morocco Outdoors Morocco may be well known as one of Africa’s top trekking destina- tions, but the country’s diverse terrain means there are many other outdoor activities on offer. Birdwatching enthusiasts, cyclists, climb- ers and horse riders will all find options to challenge and excite. Another bonus: whether you’re skiing, surfing or camel trekking, be- tween activities you can enjoy the Moroccan culture and hospitality. Birdwatching Top Activity Spots Morocco is a birdwatcher’s paradise. Mountains A startling array of species inhabits the country’s diverse ecosystems and Hoist yourself up here for rock climbing from boul- environments, especially the coastal dering to mountaineering; downhill skiing and ski wetlands. trekking; wildlife spotting, including apes, sheep and leopards, all of the Barbary variety; trekking; Around 460 species have been re- mountain biking; and white-water rafting. corded in the country, many of them migrants passing through in spring and Desert autumn, when Morocco becomes a way station between sub-Saharan Africa and Hotfoot it to the Sahara to take part in camel breeding grounds in Scandinavia, Green- treks, moonlight dune hikes and sandboarding, land and northern Russia. Other birds fly and to watch wildlife – including desert warblers to Morocco to avoid the harsh northern and the bat-eared fennec foxes – and sleep in a European winters. The lagoon at Merja Berber tent. Zerga National Park (p191) near Larache is the best site in the country for migra- Coast tory birds. Hit the beach for surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, A pleasant time for birdwatching is kayaking and canoeing; and for marine mammals March through May, when the weather is and bird life such as the endangered bald ibis. comfortable and a wide variety of species is usually present. The winter is also a par- ticularly active time in the wetlands and lagoons. Guides & Tours In addition to local birdwatching guides, the following UK-based companies offer Moroccan tours:

30 Birdfinders (www.birdfinders.co.uk) Specialist travel companies offer guided Naturetrek (www.naturetrek.co.uk) horse-riding tours: Wild Insights (www.wildinsights.co.uk) Club Farah (www.clubfarah.com) Meknès- based Swiss-Moroccan company running trips throughout Morocco, from the imperial cities to the southern Atlantic coast. PL AN YOUR TRIP M o r o c c o Ou t d o o r s Camel Treks Unicorn Trails (www.unicorntrails.com) UK- based operator offering four expeditions in the Exploring the Sahara by camel – whether High Atlas, Sahara and Essaouira area. on an overnight excursion or a longer desert safari – is one of Morocco’s signa- Mountain Biking ture activities and most rewarding wilder- ness experiences. Ordinary cycling is possible in Morocco, but mountain biking opens up the options Morocco’s most evocative stretches of considerably. Saharan sand are Erg Chebbi, near Mer- zouga, and Erg Chigaga, near M’Hamid For the very fit, the vast networks of and Zagora, and past the more accessible pistes (dirt tracks) and footpaths in the Tinfou Dunes. High Atlas offer the most rewarding biking. The Anti Atlas, the Jebel Saghro Only consider doing your camel trek plateau and the Drâa Valley also offer ex- in autumn (September and October) or cellent trails. winter (November to early March). Outside these months, the desert experiences Travel agencies, hotels and shops hire gruelling extremes of heat, as well as sand- out mountain bikes, for example in Ta- storms in the spring. fraoute, but the quality isn’t really high enough for an extended trip. Adventure- Prices start at around Dh300 per person tour companies cater to serious cyclists. per day, but vary depending on the number of people, the length of the trek and your The following operators offer mountain- negotiating skills. bike tours in Morocco: Saddle Skedaddle (www.skedaddle.co.uk) The agency organises the bivouac (tem- porary camp), which may be a permanent camp for shorter trips, and may offer Ber- ber music and mechoui (barbecued lamb). Organising a Camel Trek Biking Morocco (www.mountain-biking -morocco.com) Travellers with lots of time can organise a Freeride Morocco (www.freeridemorocco.com) guide and provisions in situ. This benefits the local community and counters the trend Rock Climbing towards young guides leaving home to look for work in more popular tourist centres. There is a growing climbing scene in Mo- rocco, with some sublime routes. Anyone M’Hamid is probably the most hassle- contemplating climbing should have plenty free of the main desert gateways, although of experience and be prepared to bring all the choice is wider at Zagora and Mer- their own equipment. zouga. Try to get recommendations from other travellers. The Anti Atlas and High Atlas offer everything from bouldering to very It’s quicker and easier, involving less demanding mountaineering routes that negotiations and waiting, to organise a trip shouldn’t be attempted unless you have a in advance – either through an interna- great deal of experience. tional tour operator or a company based in The Dadès and Todra Gorges are prime Ouarzazate or Marrakesh. climbing territory. Des Clark’s guidebook Mountaineering Horse Riding in the Moroccan High Atlas (published by Cicerone), subtitled ‘Walks, climbs and Southern Morocco is popular for horse rid- scrambles over 3000m’, is destined to ing, from beaches such as Diabat to hills, mountains, valleys, gorges and the desert.

31 become a classic. It covers some 50 routes rated, destination for surfing, windsurfing PL AN YOUR TRIP M o r o c c o Ou t d o o r s and 30 peaks in handy pocket-sized, and kitesurfing. Lessons, equipment hire plastic-covered form, with plenty of maps, and surf holidays are available. photos and practical information. Northern & Central Morocco The following are useful for information and hooking up with other climbers: North of Rabat, Mehdiya Plage has strong Nicolò Berzi ([email protected]) Italian currents but reliable year-round breaks. climbing guide organising trips to Todra Gorge. Moving south, Plage des Nations and Te- PlanetMountain.com (www.planetmountain. mara Plage, both within 20km of Rabat, com/english/rock/morocco) Has a section on are also good for surfing. Sidi Bouzid and Morocco. the beaches around El-Jadida also attract Royal Moroccan Ski & Mountaineer- surfers. ing Federation (www.frmsm.ma) Has a list of routes. Oualidia is known for surfing, windsurf- ing and kitesurfing. En route to Safi, the Skiing Lalla Fatna area has some of Morocco’s best breaks: one of the world’s longest tu- Skiing is viable from November to April, bular right-handers has drawn some of the although Morocco’s ski stations are some- biggest names in surfing. what ramshackle. Southern Morocco Downhill Skiing & Snowboarding Essaouira has been singled out by some surfers, although the ‘Windy City of Africa’ Popular resort Oukaïmeden, about 70km is a better windsurfing and kitesurfing south of Marrakesh, has North Africa’s destination year-round. Nearby Sidi highest ski lift, and equipment for hire. Kaouki is an up-and-coming destination There are other spots dotted around the for all three sports. Middle Atlas, most notably Mischliffen, near Fez, although some seasons the snow Near Agadir, the Taghazout area has is thin on the ground. There’s ad hoc some of Morocco’s best surfing beaches equipment hire, but no ski-lift. and numerous businesses catering to surfers. Other destinations to consider in south- ern Morocco are Agadir, Aglou Plage, Mirleft, and Sidi Ifni. Ski Trekking White-Water Rafting & Kayaking Ski randonné is increasingly popular, es- pecially from late December to February, Although white-water rafting and kayaking when the Aït Bougomez Valley has prime are underdeveloped in Morocco, the rivers routes. in the High Atlas near Bin el-Ouidane have stunning scenery. Surfing, Windsurfing & Kitesurfing Water by Nature (www.waterbynature.com) The specialist UK- and USA-based adventure With thousands of kilometres of coastline, company offers rafting and kayaking trips, includ- the Moroccan Atlantic is a fine, if under- ing family rafting trips, and caters to all levels of experience.

32 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Plan Your Trip Trekking in Morocco Morocco is blessed with some of the world’s most beautiful moun- tains, and is a year-round trekking destination. In summer, head to Jebel Toubkal (North Africa’s highest peak). In winter, when snow makes the High Atlas impossible to trek, there’s Jebel Saghro to explore, while the Rif Mountains are ideal for the seasons in between. Trekking Regions Getting Started High Atlas Where to Trek Tackle North Africa’s highest peak, Jebel Toubkal, These are some of the best trekking spots and meet the Berbers on the longer Toubkal in the country. Circuit. Escape the crowds and be inspired by the remote Toubkal Summit & Circuit M’Goun Massif’s spectacular valleys and beautiful An ascent of Jebel Toubkal (p103), north villages. Africa’s highest peak (4167m), is Morocco’s most iconic trek. The two-day hike starts Jebel Saghro at Imlil near Marrakesh; those wanting more can hire mules to make a Toubkal Head southeast to some of Morocco’s most Circuit trek of up to 10 days. rugged and stunning scenery, perfect for winter walking. M’Goun Traverse Despite the sometime fearsome reputation Rif Mountains of the M’Goun Traverse, this four-day trek (p93) is suitable for most levels of fitness. Take a gentler path through little-visited cedar The landscape is both varied and spectacu- forests in the Talassemtane National Park, near lar, from dry gorges to lush valleys, but be Chefchaouen. prepared to get your feet wet sometimes hopping or wading across shallow rivers. Anti Atlas Rif Mountains Visit a few of the Ameln Valley’s 26 villages, en Morocco’s lowest mountain range is ideal route to an ascent of the ‘amethyst mountain’, for springtime trekking (p266), when the Jebel L’Kest. Rif’s oak forests are greenest and slopes are Enjoy serious trekking and stark beauty among carpeted with wildflowers. Trek through the remote villages and tremendous gorges the Talassemtane National Park, past Ber- beneath volcanic Jebel Siroua. ber villages to arrive at the audacious natu- ral rock formation of God’s Bridge.

33 Jebel Saghro guides (guide offices), tourist offices, gîtes PL AN YOUR TRIP T rekking in M orocco This trek (p132) of five to six days threads d’étape (trekkers’ hostels), huts, refuges a path between the High Atlas and the (huts), campsites, souq (market) days and Dadès Valley. The traverse of Jebel Saghro other information. is arid but starkly beautiful, and is a prime winter trek when other mountain trails are You should be able to pick it up in closed due to snow. ONMT offices overseas and in Marrakesh and other major cities, or at Imlil’s bureau Anti Atlas des guides. The Anti Atlas (p382) is where Morocco’s ripple of mountains finally peters out Edisud/Belvisi publishes Gravures into the Sahara. In these much over- Rupestres du Haut Atlas, which looks looked mountains hardcore trekkers can at the rock art of Plateau du Yagour, take a week to tackle the volcanic peak of northeast of Setti Fatma, and Randon- Jebel Siroua, or hike for five days through nées Pédestres Dans le Massif du Mgoun. the villages of the Ameln Valley to Jebel These are available online, and sporadi- L’Kest. cally at tourist offices, in bookshops in Rabat and Marrakesh, from the Club Maps Alpin Français (CAF) and in the CAF’s Oukaïmeden refuge. Morocco is covered by a 1:100,000 and also a 1:50,000 topographical map series. The Mountains Look on Marrakech is Hamish Brown’s atmospheric account of a Some of the 1:50,000 series are unavail- 96-day trek across the mountains. able to the public; travellers exploring wide areas are advised to stick to the 1:100,000 Clubs, Information & Tours series. Club Alpin Français (CAF; http://cafmaroc Although marked in Cyrillic script, 2011.ffcam.fr; Casablanca) Operates refuges in 1:100,000 maps of Morocco made by the the Toubkal area. Its website is a good source of Soviet military are as topographically ac- information. curate as any available. La Fédération Royale Marocaine de Ski et Montagne (Royal Moroccan Ski & The best place in Morocco to buy maps Mountaineering Federation, FRMSM; www. is Direction de la Cartographie (p185) in frmsm.ma; Casablanca) Has basic information Rabat, which lists the maps it sells online. on its website. Maps and photocopies are also available Clothing & Equipment at other bookshops around Morocco, as well as at stalls around the Djemaa el-Fna Clothing (p50) in Marrakesh and, as a last resort, All year round you will need to pack on the approaches to the Atlas trekking strong, well-broken-in walking boots. You routes. will also need a waterproof and windproof outer layer. It’s amazing how quickly the The Foyle Reading Room of the Royal weather can change, so you’ll also need Geographical Society (www.rgs.org; cnr Ex- a sunhat, sunglasses and high-factor hibition Rd & Kensington Gore, Kensington, Lon- sunscreen. don, UK; admission per day £10) has one of the world’s largest private collections of maps, In the summer (June to August) light, and you can view its catalogue online. baggy cotton trousers and long-sleeved shirts are musts, and because the nights Websites including Amazon (www.ama- can still get cold even at lowish altitudes, zon.com) sell maps such as West Col Pro- you should also bring along a fleece or ductions maps of the Toubkal and M’Goun jumper. Massifs. When trekking during winter (Novem- Books ber to March) always pack walk clothing, including a woollen hat and gloves for The booklet Morocco: Mountain and High Atlas trekking. You should be pre- Desert Tourism (2005), published by Office pared for very cold weather wherever you National Marocain du Tourisme (ONMT), trek in the country. the Moroccan tourist office, has a good introduction to trekking in Morocco, plus lists of car-hire companies, bureaux des

34 Trekking Areas 0 100 km 0 50 miles Assilah Jebel 3 Al-Hoceima El-Kelaâ TREKKING MAPS Larache Chefchaouen 1 p107 Toubkal Summit & Circuit Trek Moulay 2 p95 Trekking the M'Goun Traverse Bousselham Ouezzane Rif Targuist 3 p267 The Rif Mountains PL AN YOUR TRIP T rekking in M orocco 4 p134 Jebel Saghro Trek Mountains Kenitra R413 Taza Guercif Jebel Mehdiya Volubilis Sidi-Kacem Tazzeka RABAT Salé ATLANTIC Fez OCEAN Meknès A2 Sefrou Casablanca Ben Azrou Ifrane Jebel Slimane Bou Naceur Azemmour Khouribga Mischliffen Atlas El-Jadida Missour Khenifra M i d d l e Settat Oued-Zem Oualidia Midelt P7 Kasba-Tadla P8 Benguérir P24 Afourer Beni Mellal Atlas Ziz Safi Azilal Gorges High Er-Rachidia Marrakesh Irhil AJzeobuerlki Todra P32 Gorge P10 S501 Plateau M'Goun 2 Tinerhir Erfoud du Yagour Kelaâ Rissani Toubkal M'Gouna National Park Jebel Saghro Oukaïmeden Ouarzazate Merzouga Jebel Jebel 4 Afensou Igdet 1 Toubkal Taouz Border Disputed Tichka Taliouine Dadès N'Kob Tazzarine Plateau Valley P31 Zagora Taroudannt A n t i A t l a s Tazenakht ALGERIA Tents Stoves The key decision, when planning a route, Many gîtes have cooking facilities, but you is whether or not to sleep in a tent. A good may want to bring a stove if you are camp- tent opens up endless trekking possibilities ing. Multifuel stoves that burn anything and will get you away from the crowds. from aviation fuel to diesel are ideal. You can hire tents from tour operators Methylated spirits is hard to get hold and guides, and at trailheads. of, but kerosene is available. Pierce-type butane gas canisters are also available, but If you would rather not carry a tent, in are not recommended for environmental most regions you can stay in the villages. reasons. Sleeping Bags Your guide will be able to advise you Whether you are camping or staying on this. in houses, a four-season sleeping bag is essential for the High Atlas and Jebel Other Equipment Saghro from September to early April, Bring a basic medical kit as well as water- when temperatures as low as -10°C are not purification tablets or iodine drops or a unknown. mechanical purifier. All water should be treated unless you take it directly from the In lower ranges, even in high summer, a source. bag comfortable at 0°C is recommended. A thick sleeping mat or thin foam mattress is To go above 3000m between November a good idea since the ground is extremely and May, as well as having experience rocky. Guides can usually supply these. in winter mountaineering, you will need

35 essentials including crampons, ice axes increased their chances of survival. So PL AN YOUR TRIP T rekking in M orocco and snow shovels. Again, this equipment is however confident you feel, we recommend available for hire. that you never walk into the mountains unguided. If you are combining trekking with vis- its to urban areas, consider storing extra Choosing a Guide luggage before your trek rather than lug- A flash-looking, English-speaking faux ging around unwanted gear. Most hotels guide from Marrakesh is no substitute will let you leave luggage, sometimes for for a gnarled, old, local mountain guide a small fee. Train stations in larger cities who knows the area like the back of his have secure left-luggage facilities. hand. Guides Official guides carry photo-identity cards. Guides should be authorised by the However much trekking and map-reading Fédération Royale Marocaine de Ski et experience you have, we strongly recom- Montagne or l’Association Nationale des mend that you hire a qualified guide – if Guides et Accompagnateurs en Montagne for no other reason than to be your trans- du Maroc. They should be credited as lator (how is your Tashelhit?), chaperone guides de montagne (mountain guides), (faux guides – unofficial guides – won’t which requires study for at least six come near you if you are with a guide), months at the Centre de Formation aux deal-getter and vocal guidebook. Métiers de Montagne, a school for moun- tain guides at Tabant in the Aït Bougomez A good guide will also enhance your valley. cultural experience. They will know local people, which will undoubtedly result in Accompagnateurs (escorts) will have invitations for tea and food, and richer had only one week’s training, and will not experiences of Berber life. be insured to lead mountain trips; guides de tourisme (tourist guides) are not quali- If something goes wrong, a local guide fied to lead treks. will be the quickest route to getting help. Every year foreigners die in the Moroccan Official mountain guides, who can mountains. Whatever the cause – a freak always show an identity card as proof of storm, an unlucky slip, a rock slide – the their status, have been trained in mountain presence of a guide would invariably have INTERNATIONAL SPECIALIST TRAVEL MAP & BOOKSHOPS Australia Melbourne Map Centre (www.melbmap.com.au; Malvern East, Victoria) Australia’s largest map shop stocks half-a-dozen Morocco maps. France Au Vieux Campeur (www.au-vieux-campeur.fr) UK Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk; London & Bristol) It sells maps including Editorial Piolet’s 1:40,000 map of the Jebel Toubkal area; and West Col’s series of 1:160,000 maps of the Atlas, based on the Soviet military survey maps. The Map Shop (www.themapshop.co.uk; Upton upon Severn, Worcestershire) USA East View Map Link (http://store.maplink.com) Has a list of other map shops in the United States and elsewhere. Omnimap (www.omnimap.com; Burlington, North Carolina) Sells an excellent range of maps, including the West Col and Soviet military survey maps, some available digitally. Rand McNally (http://store.randmcnally.com)

36 PL AN YOUR TRIP T rekking in M orocco craft, including first aid. In times of uncer- If your guide (rather than a tour opera- tain weather or in an emergency, they will tor) is organising your trip, be sure to go be infinitely more efficient than a cheaper through all aspects of the trek ahead of guide lacking proper training. If a guide is time. Discuss where each day will start reluctant to show a photo card, it probably and end; whether tents will be shared means he/she either doesn’t have one or it (most guides have a tent and/or sleeping has expired (they should be renewed every bag); how many mules will be hired; who three years). will be cooking (if there are enough of you, the guide may insist on hiring a cook, usu- Some guides de montagne have addi- ally for about Dh100 a day); food prefer- tional training in rock climbing, canyoning ences, water provision, and the division of and mountaineering. All guides speak food and equipment among the group. French, and some also speak English, Spanish or German. Several young Moroc- Mules can female guides, who have succeeded in breaking into the previously all-male world Mules (and the odd donkey) are widely of mountain guiding, are in high demand. used in Morocco for transporting goods through the mountains, and you can easily Hiring a Guide hire one to carry your gear. There are more than 400 accredited moun- tain guides in Morocco, and many can be If you are relying on heavy local sup- found through the bureaux des guides plies, or are in a large group, hiring a mule in Imlil, Setti Fatma, Chefchaouen, and makes especially good sense. As a rough Maroc Profond in Tabant (Aït Bougomez guide, mules can carry up to 120kg – or Valley). up to four sets of gear. If the route is very steep or demanding, the muleteer may At the time of writing, the minimum insist upon carrying less. He will have rate for official guides was Dh300 per day the wellbeing of his meal ticket in mind, (per group, not per person). This rate can although Moroccans are generally unsenti- vary according to season and location. The mental about their pack animals. rates do not include food and accommoda- tion expenses. Some trekking routes are not suitable for mules, although detours (for the mule) Guides generally get free accommoda- are often possible. If high passes are cov- tion in refuges and gîtes, but you may be ered in snow, porters may have to be used asked to cover their meals. If you walk a instead of mules (one porter can carry up linear route, you’ll also be expected to pay to 18kg). for their return journey. There is usually a standard charge for a Negotiate all fees before departure and mule and muleteer of about Dh100 per day. count on giving at least a 10% tip at the As with guides, if you trek a linear route, end, unless you have been unhappy with you’ll also be expected to pay for the the service. muleteer’s return journey. TREKKING GUIDEBOOKS ¨¨Great Atlas Traverse by Michael Peyron. The two-volume work by the Morocco- based British writer is the definitive text for the great traverse. Less useful for the casual trekker. ¨¨The Atlas Mountains: A Walking and Trekking Guide by Karl Smith. Published by the walking specialist Cicerone, this has route descriptions and information on subjects such as ski-touring, although it gets mixed reviews. ¨¨Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas by Des Clark. Also published by Cicerone, this guide covers some 50 routes and 30 peaks in handy pocket-sized, plastic-covered form, with plenty of maps, photos and practical information. ¨¨Trekking in the Moroccan Atlas by Richard Knight. Has 43 maps and informa- tion ranging from green hiking tips to language advice, although it also has both fans and detractors. Likely to be the most useful book for inexperienced trekkers, but it’s also the bulkiest.

37 On the Trek Food PL AN YOUR TRIP T rekking in M orocco Accommodation The choice of dry rations is limited in rural Morocco. You cannot be sure of finding If you would rather not carry a tent, you much beyond powdered milk, a range of can often stay in refuges and in villages dried fruit and sachets of soup, biscuits, at either gîtes d’étape (basic homestays or some tinned fish and dates. Supermarkets hostels) or chez l’habitant (in someone’s in larger towns and cities are a much bet- home). Especially in more remote areas, ter option, and if you take a mule, you will village rooms may not even have a mat- be able to plan a more varied diet. tress on the floor, although in places such as Imlil they often come with the luxury Bread, eggs, vegetables and some basic of a bed. supplies (eg tea and tinned tuna) may be available in some mountain villages, but The bulk of trekking accommodation you cannot count on it. Meals can also be options in the High and Middle Atlas are arranged in some villages (Dh30 to Dh50 gîtes. In the Rif and Anti Atlas, gîtes are per person is standard), especially at gîtes uncommon, and accommodation is more and refuges, although they usually need to often in local homes or in tents. be ordered in advance. Again, do not rely on local suppliers as your only source of Gîtes d’Étape food unless you have made previous Gîtes provide basic accommodation, often arrangements. offering little more than a foam mattress in an empty room, or on a roof terrace or Change money in the nearest major balcony. They have basic bathrooms and town and ensure that you have plenty of toilets, although the better ones have hot small notes. If you do get stuck, euro notes showers. Given notice, the proprietor can may be accepted. rustle up a tajine. Responsible Trekking At the time of writing, the standard rate was Dh50 per person per night, Morocco is being developed as a walking although the price can vary according destination, but many regions remain re- to season and location. Meals are extra mote – and susceptible to the cultural and (usually Dh30 to Dh50 per person), as are environmental impact of tourism. Many hot showers (usually Dh10 to Dh15 per travellers return home warmed and heart- shower). ened by Berber hospitality, but as visitor numbers increase so too does the pressure The more upscale, privately owned gîtes on locals. In response, travellers should typically charge up to Dh200 per person adopt an appropriate code of behaviour. for half-board, while rooms at one luxury kasbah in Imlil cost up to Dh2780. Cross-Cultural Considerations Refuges CAF operates refuges in Imlil, Ou- Dress kaïmeden, Tazaghart, Tacheddirt and on The way you dress is important, especially Toubkal. Officially, bookings should be among remote mountain people, who made in advance through the Oukaïmeden remain conservative. In villages, wear but- refuge. However, in practice you can usual- toned shirts or T-shirts and not sleeveless ly find out if space is available at the other vests, which villagers use as underwear. refuges in the Toubkal region by asking in Above all, trousers should be worn rather Oukaïmeden or Imlil. Refuges are often than shorts. This applies equally to men packed in July and August. and women. CAF members and HI members get the The importance of dress in the villages cheapest price for a bed. Members of affili- cannot be overemphasised (as many a ated and recognised alpine organisations frustrated and embarrassed trekking tour (eg the UK’s Alpine Club) and children leader will affirm). However much you aged under 16 years are also eligible for might disagree with this conservatism, discounts.

38 WORDS TO TREK BY PL AN YOUR TRIP T rekking in M orocco Even just a few words in a foreign language can make a big difference to your ex- perience. The following words may be helpful on these treks. (A) indicates Arabic, (B) indicates Berber; other useful Arabic and Berber words can be found in the Glossary (p502). adfel (B) – snow azib (B) – seasonal shelter for shepherds adrar (B) – mountain (plural idraren) brhel (A) – mule afella (B) – summit hâba (B) – ravine agdal (B) – pasture (also aougdal) iferd (B) – lake aghbalu (B) – water spring ifri (B) – cave ain (A) – water spring jebel (A) – mountain or hill aman (B) – water kerkour (B) – cairn anzar (B) – rain taddart (B) – house argaz (B) – man talat (B) – dried-up ravine/watercourse asserdoun (B) – mule tamada (B) – lake assif (B) – watercourse, river tigm (B) – house azaghar (B) – plane/plateau (also izwghar) tizi (B) – mountain pass respecting local traditions will bring great Environmental rewards, not least by way of contact, hospi- Considerations tality and assistance. Rubbish Hospitality Carry out all your rubbish; never bury it Invitations for tea and offers of food are or burn it (Western-style packaging never common in the mountains. By taking a burns well). Your guide may be happy to guide, who may have friends in many vil- bag up all your rubbish and hurl it over a lages, you’ll open yourself up to even more cliff, but that approach is unsustainable, offers of genuine hospitality. especially given that more and more people are now trekking in Morocco. So if you have While these offers are unconditional, it carried it in, then you should carry it out. is worth bearing in mind that the moun- tain economy is one of basic subsistence Minimise the waste you’ll carry out by farming. No one has large supplies, and in taking minimal packaging, and by repack- outlying villages there may be no surplus aging provisions into reusable containers food. Offering your hosts some Chinese when appropriate. If you want to make a gunpowder tea and some sugar (preferably gesture, consider carrying out some of the in cones) is a very welcome gesture. Dried rubbish left by others. fruits are also appreciated, as is a taste of any imported food you may have. Don’t rely on bought water in plastic bottles, as disposal of these bottles is cre- For this reason, it is important to be ating a major problem in Morocco. Instead generous when buying provisions for your- purify locally sourced water. self and guides. Human Waste Disposal Medicine Contamination of water sources by hu- In remote areas, people along the way will man faeces can lead to the transmission of often ask for medicine, from disinfectant hepatitis, typhoid and intestinal parasites. and bandages to painkillers or cream for This is a particular problem in more popu- dry skin (which many children have). Al- lated trekking areas. ways make sure the guide explains what to do with what you offer – how often to take Where there is a toilet, it is a good idea it and so on. to use it; where there is none, bury your waste. Dig a small hole 15cm (6in) deep and

39 at least 100m from any watercourse – an a new trail straight down a slope, it will PL AN YOUR TRIP T rekking in M orocco important point to remember, given how turn into a watercourse with the next many trekking routes follow rivers and heavy rainfall, eventually causing soil loss streams. Consider carrying a lightweight and deep scarring. trowel: in the arid Atlas Mountains, dig- ging without one can be difficult. In snow, Low-Impact Cooking dig down to the soil; otherwise, your waste Don’t depend on open fires for cooking. will be exposed when the snow melts. As you will see, cutting wood for fires has caused widespread deforestation in Use toilet paper sparingly, burn it when Morocco. Ideally, cook on a lightweight possible or bury it with the waste. Cover multifuel or kerosene stove and avoid the waste with soil and a rock. those powered by disposable butane gas canisters. Washing Don’t use detergents or toothpaste in or If you do make a fire, ensure that it is near watercourses, even if they are bio- fully extinguished after use by spreading degradable. For personal washing use the embers and dousing them with water. biodegradable soap and wash at least 50m A fire is only truly safe to leave when you away from any watercourse. Disperse the can comfortably place your hand in it. waste water widely to allow the soil to filter it fully before it makes its way back Camping to the watercourse. Use a scourer, sand or Vegetation at high altitude is highly sensi- snow to wash cooking utensils rather than tive. When camping, minimise your im- detergent. Again, make sure you’re at least pact on the environment by not removing 50m from any watercourse. or disturbing the vegetation around your campsite. In order to avoid aggravating Erosion the persistent and serious problem of over- Hillsides and mountain slopes, especially grazing in many of the regions, sufficient at high altitudes, are prone to erosion. fodder (barley) for all baggage mules and Stick to existing tracks and avoid short donkeys should be brought in. Enquire cuts that bypass a switchback. If you blaze about this before setting off.

40 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Plan Your Trip Travel with Children Morocco has plenty to capture a child’s imagination. The souqs of Marrakesh and Fez are an endlessly fascinating sensory explo- sion, and nights around a campfire or camel rides on the beach are equally memorable – but factor in some time by the hotel pool at the end of a hot day. Best Regions for Kids Morocco for Kids Marrakesh Morocco is ideal for parents who once travelled to intrepid destinations, and All generations can retire to pool, park, horse- don’t necessarily fancy a Western poolside drawn calèche or camel back. The Djemaa el-Fna now they have knee-high travelling com- is Morocco’s carnival capital. panions. Compared with Asia, Morocco is easily accessible from Europe and North Coast America; Marrakesh is less than four hours from London. And when you touch The Atlantic Coast offers plenty of beaches and down, you’ll find that children open nu- water and wind sports. Agadir’s long, sandy beach merous doors, getting you closer to the is popular; mix it with somewhere more colourful heart of this family-oriented country. like Essaouira, with its fun-to-explore ramparts and medina. Meeting the Locals Drâa Valley Moroccans love children so much that you may even want to bring a backpack to Tour Ouarzazate’s film studios and kasbah, then carry smaller kids, in case they grow tired head down the valley for dunes and dromedary of the kissing, hugging, gifts and general rides. adulation. Locals have grown up in large families, and children break the ice and Rabat encourage contact with Moroccans, who are generally very friendly, helpful and pro- With souqs, ruins and gardens, this is a relatively tective towards families. mellow slice of urban Morocco. Attractions include a zoo, amusement park and pony rides. As you travel the countryside, women may pick up their own child and wave from Middle Atlas their doorway. Such moments emphasise your children’s great benefit: having yet to For mountain scenery, waterfalls, forest walks and acquire any stereotypes about Africa and less hair-raising passes than in the High Atlas. the Middle East, their enduring impres- Easily visited from spots like Azrou and Fez. sion of Morocco is likely to be its people’s warmth and friendliness.

41 Of course, this certainly doesn’t mean delicious fruit and veggies, but be sure to PL AN YOUR TRIP T r ave l with C hi l d r e n parents receive special treatment from the wash or peel them. salesmen in the country’s souqs. However, even the grizzliest shopkeepers generally To avoid stomach upsets, stick to welcome Western women and children, as purified or bottled water. Milk is widely it gives their store the image of having a available – UHT, pasteurised and pow- broad, family-friendly appeal. Letting your dered – but you should bring any special kids run amok in carpet shops can also be foods you require. an excellent bargaining technique! Adapting to Morocco Children’s Highlights Morocco will be an unfamiliar environ- Animal Encounters ment to many, and children will probably take a day or so to adapt, but it has plenty ¨¨Travelling by road to a High Atlas trailhead of familiar and fun aspects that kids can such as Imlil (p101), then taking a day walk in the relate to. Hectic first impressions will be mountains with a guide and mule. countered by exciting finds like the snakes ¨¨Camel or horse rides along the beaches charmers on the Djemaa el-Fna. In the around Essaouira (p208) or in the Sahara, with countryside, simple things like beehives accessible dunes in the Drâa Valley (p118) and and plants endlessly fascinate children. Merzouga (p147). Dedicated play facilities in parks and pub- ¨¨Calèche (horse-drawn carriage) rides around lic gardens are very rare. the ramparts of places like Marrakesh (p47) and Taroudannt (p369). Taking Your Time Splashing Around A key to successful family travel in Mo- rocco is to factor in lots of time: to accli- ¨¨Wind and water sports around Essaouira, or matise at the beginning, and to just relax the beach at Agadir (p359) for young children. and muck about at the end. Trying to cram ¨¨Oualidia lagoon (p204), with safe, calm everything in, as you might if you were by waters and a wide, sandy beach. yourself, will lead to tired, cranky kids. ¨¨Ceuta’s creative Parque Marítimo del Distances are deceptive due to factors such Mediterráneo, its pools surrounded by as bad roads, and you need to build in restaurants and cafes. contingency plans in case children get ill. However, having to slow your pace to that Fun & Games of your kids – for example, having to stay put in the hottest hours between noon and ¨¨Jardin Majorelle (p60) and Djemaa el-Fna 4pm – is another way children draw you (p50), Marrakesh; on the latter, children enjoy closer to the Moroccan landscape, people amusements such as the ‘fishing for a bottle’ and pace of life. game. ¨¨Atlas Film Corporation Studios (p112), Eating Out Ouarzazate, featuring sets and props from famous films made hereabouts. Tajines contain many familiar elements, such as potatoes and carrots. Although Planning you may want to encourage your child to try Moroccan food, you may struggle if If you look hard enough, you can buy just they don’t like potatoes or bread; in which about anything you need for young chil- case Western foods, such as pasta, pizza dren in Morocco. Before leaving home, and fries, are available. High chairs are not think about what you can take with you always available in restaurants, although to Morocco’s various environments; wet- staff are almost universally accommodat- weather gear is vital in the mountains in ing with children. case the weather turns bad. Be careful about choosing restaurants; steer clear of salads and stick to piping- hot tajines, couscous, omelettes and soups such as harira (lentil soup). Markets sell

42 PL AN YOUR TRIP T r ave l with C hi l d r e n Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children has Health & Hygiene more information and tips. Alcohol gel (hand sanitiser) is essential, Accommodation as children tend to touch everything. Dis- posable nappies are a practical solution Some hotels are more family-friendly than when travelling despite the environmental others, so check your children will be well drawbacks; international brands are read- catered for before booking. ily available. All travellers with children should know how to treat minor ailments Like the airlines, many hotels will not and when to seek medical treatment. charge children under two years of age. For those between two and 12 years sharing a Make sure the children are up to date room with their parents, it’s often 50% off with routine vaccinations, and discuss pos- the adult rate. If you want reasonable toilet sible travel vaccines well before departure, and bathroom facilities, you’ll need to stay as some are not suitable for children aged in midrange hotels. under a year. Transport Upset stomachs are always a risk for children when travelling, so take particu- Northern Morocco has a great rail infra- lar care with diet. If your child is vomiting structure, and travel by train may be the or experiencing diarrhoea, lost fluid and easiest, most enjoyable option: children salts must be replaced. It may be helpful to can stretch their legs, and fold-out tables take rehydration powders for reconstitut- are useful for drawing and games. Travel- ing with sterile water; ask your doctor. Be lers and children are eligible for reductions aware that at roadside stops and cheaper and discount cards. hotels, squat-style toilets are more com- mon than Western-style toilets. Grands taxis and buses can be a real squeeze with young children, who count In Morocco’s often-searing heat, sun- not as passengers in their own right but burn, heat exhaustion and dehydration as wriggling luggage, and have to sit on should all be guarded against, even on your lap. The safety record of buses and cloudy days. Bring high-factor sunscreen shared taxis is poor, and many roads are with you, and avoid travelling in the interi- potholed. or during midsummer, when temperatures rise to 40°C plus. Hiring a vehicle – a taxi in Marrakesh or a 4WD to the mountains – is well worth Encourage children to avoid dogs and the extra expense. It’s worth bringing a other mammals because of the risk of child seat – it will allow children to see out rabies and other diseases – although there of the window and hire-car companies nor- isn’t likely to be a risk on camel rides in mally don’t have them. Seats generally cost the desert, or with donkeys and mules more in Morocco than they do in Europe. working in places like Fez medina.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 43 Regions Atlantic Coast at a Glance Beaches Architecture Marrakesh & Central Morocco Birdwatching Adventure Beaches Architecture This stretch encompasses Food the aptly named Paradise Adventure Beach, a carriage ride from With its dunes, mountains, souqs and kasbahs, Central Assilah, and Sidi Kaouki, Morocco is an adventure. But before you leave Marra- a top surfing and wind- kesh, dive into the Djemaa el-Fna. The square’s peculiar surfing spot. In between, magic – like a circus meeting a giant barbecuing compe- Temara Plage and Haouzia tition – soon sweeps travellers into a jubilant party mood. beach are near Rabat and Architecture Casablanca, and chic Oua- Marrakesh has more riads than any other city, kasbahs lidia has a sand-fringed dot the Drâa Valley, and ksour (fortified strongholds) lagoon. line the Rissani road. White window frames and blue doors distinguish stone, mud and thatch villages from Architecture their High Atlas settings. Gems include Essaouira Food and El-Jadida, fortified Fantastic street food, lavish riad dining, local organic seaside towns with wave- ingredients – and that’s just in Marrakesh. Slow Food is lashed ramparts. Hispano- even taking off, from Saharan date syrup to honey from Moorish Larache recalls its medicinal herbs. Try some local wines, particularly the two spells under Spanish crisp rosé and gris varieties. rule and murals decorate p46 nearby Assilah’s medina. Mauresque beauties are found in Casablanca (which also has the world’s third- largest mosque) and Rabat. Birdwatching Beaches and coastal wetlands offer excellent birdwatching, particularly around Moulay Boussel- ham: Merja Zerga (Blue Lagoon) attracts thou- sands of birds. Lac de Sidi Bourhaba is one of the last places to see large numbers of marbled ducks. p153

44 PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance Imperial Cities, Mediterranean Middle Atlas & the Southern Morocco Coast & the Rif East & Western Sahara Beaches Souqs Coastal Hideaways National Parks History Oases Trekking Food Activities Beaches Souqs Coastal Hideaways The Mediterranean coast Fez medina includes the Remote seaside escapes ripples east from beaches Henna Souq (actually best offer empty beaches and near Tangier. Top beaches for blue pottery) and the dilapidated charm. Mirleft include Oued Laou, Cala Carpenters’ Souq, with is a favourite hang-out with Iris, Al-Hoceima and thrones built for weddings. its cafes and boutique ac- Saídia, all unruffled in Meknès has souqs devoted commodation; art-deco Sidi comparison with Europe’s to textiles, jewellery, car- Ifni is as perfectly faded as Mediterranean beaches. pets and embroidery, and a sepia photo; and Tarfaya’s Middle Atlas souqs are colonial Spanish relics peel National Parks piled with Berber carpets. between the eddying sands. Two stunning national parks offer the best of History Oases the region’s coastline and Fez medina is the world’s Beneath ochre cliffs, palms mountains. Talassemtane largest living medieval worthy of Lawrence of Ara- National Park encompasses Islamic city, and the Fès bia nestle in the Aït Man- green mountains, tiny Festival of World Sacred sour Gorges and Ameln villages, an eco-museum Music showcases Sufi mu- Valley. Palms also line the and the God’s Bridge rock sic. Elsewhere, memories winding road through formation; and the Al- of Meknès’ past glories Paradise Valley, and refresh Hoceima National Park’s remain; Volubilis was a Ro- Saharan travellers around great mesas, dry canyons man outpost; Moulay Idriss Tata and Tighmert. and thuya forests lead to is dedicated to its 8th- limestone sea cliffs. century namesake; and an Activities 11th-century minaret over- Taghazout is Morocco’s Trekking looks oasis town Figuig. premier surf spot, the sun- Trekking through the Rif and-sand fun continues Mountains in Talassemtane Food year-round in Agadir, and National Park is superb, Fez’ dishes include wild Mirleft and Sidi Ifni offer and largely undiscovered thistle/artichoke stew, and wind and water sports. compared with High Atlas the medina has a snail Inland, the Anti Atlas is a routes. From Chefchaouen, stand. The Middle Atlas mountain-biking and trek- multiday trails lead has homegrown delights, king playground, and Tata through forests of cedar, such as the red goodies at is an emerging destination cork oak and fir. Sefrou’s Cherry Festival. for desert excursions. p220 p281 p357

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd On the Road Mediterranean Coast & the Rif p220 Atlantic Imperial Cities, Coast Middle Atlas & the East p153 p281 Marrakesh & Central Morocco p46 Southern Morocco & Western Sahara p357

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Marrakesh & Central Morocco ‫مراكش وسط المغرب‬ Marrakesh ................... 47 Why Go? Central High Atlas........ 84 Western High Atlas...... 96 The central region of Morocco is the most exciting and di- Ouarzazate ................. 112 verse destination in the entire country. The biggest draw- Zagora ....................... 120 card is the pink city of Marrakesh. Founded almost 1000 M’Hamid .....................125 years ago, it is one of the great cities of the Maghreb and Skoura ........................128 its spectacular setting against the snow-capped High Atlas Dadès Gorge ...............135 mountains lingers long in the minds of most travellers. Todra Gorge.................138 Er-Rachidia .................142 Somehow this vibrant, bursting-at-the-seams city exists Rissani ........................145 on the edge of the Sahara, hemmed in by cloud-busting High Merzouga. ................... 147 Atlas passes. You’d never guess from GPS coordinates that beyond them a burbling river interrupts stony-faced Todra Best Places Gorge, or rocks melt like wax candles into the Dadès Gorge. to Eat Just when the rocky Ziz and Drâa Valleys seem utterly bar- ren, water seeps through fissures and bursts into exuberant ¨¨Amal Centre (p75) palm oases. In the far southeast, the sculpted sand dunes ¨¨Djemaa el-Fna (p50) surrounding Merzouga and M’Hamid provide the perfect ¨¨Bab el-Oued (p119) pink-hued curtain call to this extraordinary region. ¨¨Accord Majeur (p116) ¨¨Ksar el-Khorbat (p141) When to Go Rainfall inches/mm 8/200 Best Places Marrakesh to Stay °C/°F Temp ¨¨Dar al Assad (p69) ¨¨Tizouit (p85) 40/104 ¨¨Dar Ahansal (p89) ¨¨Jardins de Skoura (p130) 30/86 6/150 ¨¨La Dune Blanche (p124) 20/68 4/100 10/50 2/50 0/32 MAM J 0 JF J ASOND Mar–Apr Moun- May–Jun Ideal Oct–Nov Prime tains thaw, desert High Atlas hiking: desert time: blooms. Skip hot, not scorch- gentle breezes, Easter holidays ing. Accommoda- dates galore. when prices tion and souq jump. bargains.

47 MARRAKESH ‫مراكش‬ and Golden) paved the Badi Palace with gold and took opulence to the grave in the gilded POP 1,070,800 Saadian Tombs. Marr akesh & Centr al Morocco MS iaAgrRhrRtaAsKk EeSshH From the moment you arrive in Marrakesh, Alawite leader Moulay Ismail preferred you’ll get the distinct feeling you’ve left Meknès to Marrakesh, and moved his head- something behind – a toothbrush or socks, quarters there – though not before looting maybe? But no, what you’ll be missing in the Badi Palace. Marrakesh entered its Wild Marrakesh is predictability and all sense West period, with big guns vying for control. of direction. Never mind: you’re better off Those who prevailed built extravagant riads, without them here. Start at action-packed though much of the population lived hand to Djemaa el-Fna and head north into Marra- mouth in crowded funduqs (rooming hous- kesh’s maze of souqs, where Berber tribes es). In 1912 the French protectorate granted once traded slaves, gold, ivory and leather, Pasha Glaoui the run of southern Morocco, and where modern tourists scour people- while French and Spanish colonists built packed alleys for carpet bargains and ba- themselves a ville nouvelle. bouches (leather slippers). Look carefully, and you’ll also spot a number of creative Without a clear role post-Independence, new boutiques and galleries. They signify Marrakesh resumed its fall-back career as the evolving face of the medina as a new a caravanserai – and became the nation’s generation of craftspeople and artists try to breakaway success. Roving hippies built connect the city’s hankering for modernity the city’s mystique in the 1960s and ’70s, with its traditional craft heritage. and visits by the Rolling Stones, Beatles and Led Zeppelin gave the city star power. Beyond the souqs, the medina is an ideal In the 1990s private medina mansions were place to explore private palaces and riad converted into B&Bs, just in time for low- mansions, many of which now provide the cost airlines to deliver weekenders to brass- city’s most atmospheric accommodation. studded riad doors. But it’s worth leaving the old city occasion- ally for dinner, drinks and art galleries in the Marrakesh was amid a major tourism ville nouvelle (new town), mountain bike boom in 2008 when the global financial rides in the palmeraie (palm oasis) or horse- crisis started to wreak havoc in European riding and weekend retreats in the Agafay markets, which account for over 80% of the Desert and Ouirgane. city’s visitors. Hot on the heels of this fiscal collapse, an Islamist militant disguised as a History guitar-carrying hippie walked into Café Ar- gana on the Djemaa el-Fna and planted two Many desert caravans passed through this bombs that killed 17 people in April 2011. outpost before Almoravid Berber leader Youssef ben Tachfine and his savvy wife Confidence in the Red City plummeted: Zeinab recognised its strategic potential, tourists cancelled bookings and investment and built ramparts around the encampment tumbled. But while economic growth hit the in AD 1062. The Almoravids established the skids, dropping from 4.9% in 2011 to 2.9% city’s khettara (underground irrigation sys- in 2012, Morocco’s circumspect handling of tem) and signature pink mudbrick architec- Arab Spring tensions saw a gradual return ture. But when Almohad warriors stormed to growth in 2013. What’s more, the city’s the city, they left only the plumbing and the dynamic entrepreneurs are determined to Koubba Ba’adiyn intact. Almohad Yacoub put Marrakesh back on track with audacious el-Mansour remodelled Marrakesh with a plans for Africa’s largest contemporary art fortified kasbah, glorious gardens, qissariat museum scheduled for completion in 2016. (covered markets), a rebuilt Koutoubia and a triumphal gate (Bab Agnaou). But the 1 Sights Almohads soon lost their showpiece to the Merenids, who turned royal attention to Me- 1 Medina knès and Fez. Most monuments are inside the medina Life improved again in the 16th century, ramparts (a 19km circuit). If you wander when the Saadians made Marrakesh the off course exploring souqs and palaces, ask crux of lucrative sugar-trade routes, estab- someone to point you towards Djemaa el- lished a trading centre for Christians and a Fna (preferably a shopkeeper – kids some- protected mellah (Jewish quarter) in 1558. times mislead tourists) or head towards the Ahmed al-Mansour ed-Dahbi (the Victorious Koutoubia minaret, the tallest in town.

48 Safi (22km) Casablanca (135km) Sebt-des- Gzoula P12 El-Kalaâ- Bzou Afourer N9 des-Sraghna Oulad-Brahim Cascades N7 N8 d'Ouzoud Bin- el-Ouidane OuedTamelelt Azilal OuVriaklaleyA7 Oued NfissEssaouiraOudayaOued Tensitt Sidi- Lac des Demnate (75km) Rahal Aït-Aadel Imi n'Ifri Marr akesh & Centr al Morocco &MS iaCgrehrntastkreaslhM orocco H igh l ightsN8 Sidi- Chichaoua Aït-bou-Riah Marrakesh Aït-Ourir Jebel Ghat Moktar N9 (3825m) N8 A7 Guemassa Agafay R203 P2017 Z a t Va lley Aït-Barka Tamda Tirdouine Lakes Desert Tahanaoute Aghmat Tessaout R212 Barrage Lalla Tnine Taddert Tighza Amezri Imi-n- Bou-Laouane Takerkoust Asni Tizi n' Telouet Anmiter Tanoute H IGH Amizmiz Mizane Setti Tichka Achahoud Fatma (2260m) Tamdaght Aït Ouirgane Valley Aït Souss Adassil Jebel Oukaïmeden Benhaddou Imlil Agouim N9 Tidrheste Igdet Jebel Toubkal Tisselday Jebel (3616m) (4167m) Tichka Souk Tnine- Amerzgane (3350m) Ijoukak Amsouzart Tigouda Tin Mal Mosque Ouarzazate Taourirt Tizi n'Test Asif Iriri N9 DOrâuaed (2092m) Tachokchte Ej-Jemima Aoufour Aoulouz Askaoun Jebel Anzal Tizi n'Tinififft Siroua N10 Oulad Berhil (3304m) Taroudannt Taliouine Tazenakht Agadir Algou Tassetift Aït Hamane (67km) Asarrakh Asaka Igherm Tisfrioudine Foum Zguid Pistes: Impassable Tata in bad weather Marrakesh & Central Morocco Highlights 1 Contrast the outrageous walls of authentic Marrakshi 3 Follow desert caravan antics of Djemaa el-Fna (p50) riads (p67) routes from kasbah to kasbah street performers with the 2 Walk through Morocco’s through the Drâa Valley serenity and social graces Shangri-la, the stunning and (p118) hidden behind the austere pink secluded Aït Bougomez 4 Stargaze in the rolling Valley (p90) dunes at Erg Chigaga (p125)