Lonely Planet Vietnam

4 Sleeping & Eating 149 You’ll find several cheap restaurants scat- minutes between 4am and 8.30pm) and Xin Man tered along P Nguyen Trai. (to pick up onward transport to Bac Ha; 80,000d to 110,000d, 6am, 11.45am and 12.15pm) leave Cao Nguyen Hotel HOTEL $ from here. (%0219-386 6966; khachsancaonguyen@gmail. com; 297 P Nguyen Thai Hoc; r 400,000-500,000d; A second bus station, 2.5km from the town aW) Near the Lo River, this place has 40 centre, operates provincial services to Dong Van spotless and spacious rooms with actual (via Tam Son, Yen Minh and taking the northern separate shower cubicles in the bathrooms – fork along the high pass road); and to Meo Vac some even have rain shower heads. There (veering off the high road after Yen Minh and tak- are good pho stalls just a short walk away. ing the southern fork along the low road direct to Meo Vac). Buses to Dong Van (100,000d, 4½ N o rth e rn Vi e tna m NSHlaoerGetiphainwge sP&trEoVaivteiitnnncgaem Huy Hoan Hotel HOTEL $ hours) leave at 5am, 6.30am, 10am, 10.30am, (%0219-386 1288; P Nguyen Trai; s/d/tr 11.30am and noon. To Meo Vac (110,000d, six hours) there are services at 5am, 5.30am, 6am, 10.30am, 11.30am, noon and 1pm. 250,000/350,000/500,000d; aW) Run by a Quan Ba Pass friendly family, the Huy Hoan offers large, clean, well-kept rooms with (very) firm beds. Leaving Ha Giang, the road climbs over the The communal balcony at the back of each Quan Ba Pass (Heaven’s Gate) around 40km floor looks out over a limestone cliff. from the city. Poetic licence is a national pas- time in Vietnam, but this time the romantics Truong Xuan Resort BUNGALOW $$ have it right. The road winds over a saddle (%0219-386 2268; www.hagiangresort.com; Km 5, and opens up on to an awesome vista of P Nguyen Van Linh; bungalow US$25-30; aW) A knobbly topped limestone mountains. gem of a place sitting alongside the bank of the Lo River, 5km out of town, with bunga- At the top of Quan Ba Pass is an informa- lows set in a lush garden. You’ll want a riv- tion centre and lookout with amazing views erfront bungalow to make the most of the down into Tam Son. An English-­language view. Meals (US$5 to $10) are available in information board details the 2011 initiative the restaurant, herbal baths and Red Dzao to declare the Dong Van Karst Plateau part massages are offered, and it rents motor- of the Unesco Global Network of National bikes (US$10 per day). Geoparks. It’s the first Unesco-recognised From the bus station, count on 40,000d geopark in Vietnam and the second one in for a xe om. Southeast Asia, after Langkawi Geological Park in Malaysia. Bien Nho Thanh Tam Son Thu Restaurant VIETNAMESE $$ The small town of Tam Son lies in a valley (%0219-328 2558; 17 P Duong Huu Nghi; meals at the end of the Quan Ba Pass. On Sundays from 120,000d; h11am-10pm) For something there’s a good market with ethnic minori- exotic, this place has crocodile, seafood, ties, including White Hmong, Red Dzao, Tay goose and traditional food from the ethnic and Giay. minorities of Ha Giang. There’s also good accommodation at the 88 Information guesthouse Nha Nghi Nui Doi (%0219-651 0789; Tam Son; d/tr 250,000/300,000d; aW) Most accommodation in Ha Giang can organise with seven light-filled, simple rooms. All your travel permit (US$10) for the road north the buses trundling via the high road to from Tam Son – or you can pay the fee at which- Dong Van and the low road to Meo Vac pass ever hotel you stay overnight in along the route. through here (100,000d). There are a couple of internet cafes on P From Tam Son to Dong Van Nguyen Trai. Agribank (P Nguyen Trai; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, From Tam Son, Ha Giang province’s main 8-11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr) mountain pass road connects to Dong Van, first trundling onto the sleepy town of Yen 88 Getting There & Away Minh. The Thao Nguyen Hotel (%0219- 385 2297; [email protected]; Ha Giang’s main bus station (Ɖ 19-5) is Yen Minh; r 300,000-400,000d), on the main centrally located just off P Nguyen Trai, west of the Lo River. Buses to Hanoi (day/sleeper 120,000/220,000d, seven hours, every 30

150 the compact old quarter of Dong Van. The street through town, opposite the Agribank traditional terracotta-coloured adobe hous- ATM, has well-kept, colourful rooms, but it’s es here, with timber details and slouchy tiled worth pushing on to overnight in Dong Van. roofs, date from the French colonial period. There’s a great no-name restaurant in Yen Minh that’s a popular spot for lunch; com- Lung Cu MONUMENT ing from Ha Giang, turn left on the corner before the Thao Nguyen Hotel to find it. (admission 10,000d; h8am-5pm) Around 25km Around 5km east of Yen Minh a road north of Dong Van and right on the Chinese meanders southeast to Meo Vac, but the border, Lung Cu is a massive flag tower recommended route is the northern fork to erected in 2010 to mark the northernmost Dong Van with the mountain road rubbing point of Vietnam. The summit is reached by shoulders with the Chinese border and vast almost 300 steps from a midlevel car park, panoramic vistas of green valleys rolling on and the views across rural villages are stun- below.N o rth e rn Vi e tna m SNHiaogrhGttihasnwge sPtr oV iveitnncaem ning. You’ll need to show your passport and If you’re travelling by public transport, Ha Giang permit twice – at the local tourist you can flag down buses to Dong Van (via police and army checkpoint near the base the northern fork) and Meo Vac (low road) of the tower – before ascending to the top. as they pass through. The northern fork heads past the as- 4 Sleeping & Eating tounding Vuong Palace (admission 20,000d; h8am-5pm), a grandiose two-storey mansion The market halls in Dong Van’s old mar- built for a local Hmong king by the French. ket plaza, in the centre of town, have been Set in a hidden valley near a quiet village, turned into open-air cafes, which are great the building was renovated in 2006 and is a for a coffee or cold drink. fascinating sight in such a remote region of the country. The Vuong Palace is at Sa Phin, Lam Tung Hotel HOTEL $ around 15km west of Dong Van, and the (Ɖ Vao Cho; d/tw/tr 280,000/350,000/380,000d; scenery of countless conical peaks through aW) Just off Dong Van’s main road, and to Dong Van is quite incredible. overlooking the plaza that hosts the Sun- day market, the Lam Tung has surprising- ly smart modern rooms and friendly staff. Some of the best food in town is dished up Dong Van at the restaurant downstairs (meals from 50,000d per person), though unfortunately Dong Van is the Ha Giang region’s most pop- there’s no English menu. It rents motorbikes ular overnight stop. The main road through for 200,000d per day. town isn’t particularly inspiring, but in the old quarter a clutch of traditional Hmong Hoang Ngoc Hotel HOTEL $ houses still clings on and timing your visit (%0219-385 6020; www.hoangngochotel2.blog to be here for the chaotic Sunday market spot.com; Ɖ 3-2; d/tr 300,000/370,000d; aW) is highly recommended. The town is also a A solid choice on Dong Van’s main road, the good base for day treks around nearby mi- Hoang Ngoc features spacious, sparkling-­ nority villages and nearby sights such as clean rooms, some with balconies. There’s Lung Cu. a handy map in reception showing trekking 1 Sights trails around the area. Staff can arrange trips to Vuong Palace, Lung Cu and Meo oDong Van Market Vac, and can usually rustle up motorbikes MARKET (Ɖ Vao Cho; h6am-2pm Sun) Once a week, local to rent. villagers from the surrounding hills, includ- ing the Hmong, Tay, Nung and Hoa ethnic Quang Dung Restaurant VIETNAMESE minorities, flood into Dong Van for the Sun- (19 P Co; meals 50,000-120,000d; h7am-10pm; v) Opposite the old market plaza, in the day market. It’s an entirely local affair full centre of town, Quang Dung is a real find of noise, colour, and the hustle and bustle of commerce. with friendly on-the-ball service. There’s an English menu featuring good breakfasts and hearty Vietnamese staples, and the titchy Old Quarter ARCHITECTURE (off P Co) At the northern end of P Co, just balcony at the front is a great place to chill past the old market plaza, a narrow lane, out with a coffee or beer after a long drive. backed by a limestone cliff, meanders into

151 88 Information Auberge de Meo Vac GUESTHOUSE $$ (%0219-387 1686; [email protected]; Dong Van’s only ATM is on the main road dm/d US$15/60) Located in a semirural (Ɖ 1-3) just past, and opposite, the old market neighbourhood, around 500m from Meo plaza. Vac’ Sunday market, this is a unique stay in a lovingly restored ethnic minority house dat- 88 Getting There & Away ing from the 19th century. Look forward to clay walls, lots of natural timber and a spa- Buses to Ha Giang (100,000d, 4½ hours) leave cious inner courtyard. Bathroom facilities at 5am, 7am, 10am and noon. Dong Van’s tiny are shared, and breakfast (US$5) and dinner bus station, on the main road at the western end (US$12) are available. of town, very rarely has anyone in attendance outside of bus departure times, but Dong Van’s 88 Getting There & Away N o rth e rn Vi e tna m IHNnaofroGtrihamnwagetsiPotrnoV iveitnncaem hotels can all book bus tickets for you and get the bus to pick you up from the hotel. Heading west, Meo Vac has around five services daily between 5am and noon via the low road There is no public transport linking Dong Van to Ha Giang. The bus schedule tends to change to Meo Vac. A xe om to Meo Vac should cost frequently, so check with the Hoa Cuong Hotel around 100,000d and a taxi around 500,000d. for up-to-date departure times. Most hotels in Dong Van can arrange this for you and can also help organise private transport to There is no public transport southeast to the Vuong Palace and Lung Cu. transport hub of Cao Bang. Instead catch a xe om (800,000d) or taxi (1,500,000d) to Bao Lac, Meo Vac where there is accommodation and a daily bus to Cao Bang. Meo Vac is a district capital hemmed in by mountains and, like many towns in the South to Bao Lac & Cao Bang northwest, it is steadily being settled by Vi- etnamese from elsewhere. The journey here Foreigners are now permitted to travel from along the spectacular Mai Pi Leng Pass, Meo Vac to Bao Lac in Cao Bang province. which winds for 22km from Dong Van, is the You must have your Ha Giang permit to do main attraction. The road has been cut into this spectacular trip. The road is now paved, the side of a cliff with a view of rippling hills though it’s still best on trail bikes or by 4WD. tumbling down to the distant waters of the Nho Que River far below. Right at the top of Heading south from Meo Vac you’ll pass the pass is a lookout point where you can through the town of Khau Vai after about stop to take in the scenery. 20km, which is famous for its annual love market, where the tribal minorities swap Don’t be surprised if you’re offered a slug wives and husbands. Though it’s undoubt- of a local speciality, ‘bee wine’, while you’re edly a fascinating tradition, many busloads in town. We’re still trying to work out if it’s of Vietnamese tourists now gatecrash the made from bees and honey, or just ‘100% dating scene, and this unique event has be- bees’. Either way, it’s a bracing drink on a come something of a circus. It takes place on chilly Meo Vac night. the 27th day of the third lunar month in the Vietnamese calendar, usually from late April Meo Vac has a good Sunday market. Its to mid-May. proximity and timing with Dong Van’s Sun- day market means that it’s easy enough to After Khau Vai, a new bridge crosses combine the two by xe om. the Nho Que River, and the road contin- ues south to Bao Lac. In Bao Lac, the Song 4 Sleeping Gam (%0263-870 269; Bao Lac; s/d from 200,000/250,000d; aW) guesthouse has a Hoa Cuong Hotel HOTEL $ riverside location and is popular with mo- (%0219-387 2888; d/tr 400,000/500,000d; torbike tours. A daily bus service (110,000d) aW) Centrally located, opposite Meo Vac’s leaves at 6am for Cao Bang, from where Sunday market, this hotel has spacious, neat there is transport to Hanoi and Ba Be rooms with beige decor and big TVs. The National Park. karaoke places nearby are more active on Saturday and Sunday nights.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Central Vietnam Includes  Why Go? Ninh Binh Province . . 153 The geographic heart of the nation, central Vietnam is Phong Nha-Ke Bang packed with historic sights and cultural interest, and bless- National Park . . . . . . . 162 ed with ravishing beaches and outstanding national parks. Demilitarised Marvel at Hue and its imperial citadel, royal tombs and Zone (DMZ). . . . . . . . . 169 excellent street food. Savour the unique heritage grace of Hue. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 riverside jewel Hoi An, and tour the military sites of the De- Bach Ma militarised Zone (DMZ). Check out Danang, fast emerging National Park . . . . . . . 190 as one of the nation’s most dynamic cities. Also emerging Danang. . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 as a must-visit destination is the extraordinary Phong Nha Hoi An. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 region, home to three gargantuan cave systems (including the world’s largest cave), and a fascinating war history con- Best Places to Eat cealed amid stunning scenery. Enjoy well-earned downtime on the golden sands of An Bang beach or learn to cook cen- ¨¨Nu Eatery (p216) tral Vietnamese cuisine, the nation’s most complex. With ¨¨Morning Glory Restaurant improving highways, and upgraded international airports (p216) at Hue and Danang, access to this compelling and diverse ¨¨Cargo Club (p216) part of Vietnam has never been easier. ¨¨Waterfront (p197) ¨¨Fatfish (p197) When to Go Rainfall inches/mm 32/800 Hue °C/°F Temp 40/104 Best for 30/86 24/600 Spectacular Scenery 20/68 16/400 ¨¨Tam Coc (p157) 10/50 8/200 ¨¨Phong Nha-Ke Bang 0/32 MAM J 0 National Park (p162) JF J ASOND ¨¨Bach Ma National Park Late Apr May Tempera- Sep Sticky sum- (p190) Danang’s river- tures rise and mer heat relents, front explodes central Vietnam’s peak crowds are a ¨¨Hai Van Pass (p193) with colour for the beaches come memory and sea annual fireworks into their own. temperatures are ¨¨Cham Islands (p223) competition. balmy.

153 History Cuc Phuong Nam Dinh National Park This region’s seen them all: kings and Thai Binh king-makers, warriors and occupiers and a THANH Ninh history of warfare and conflict. The ancient Nam Can HOA Binh kingdom of Champa began here in the 2nd century and flourished for more than a thou- NGHE Thanh sand years. Myriad Cham towers and temples 7 AN Hoa dot the landscape; the most renowned are at My Son. The Vietnamese subdued Champa Do Luong Dien Chau SOUTH in the 15th century, while in subsequent cen- CHINA turies European, Japanese and Chinese trad- SEA ers established footholds in Hoi An. Vinh Cau In 1802, Vietnam’s last royal dynasty, the Treo HA Ha Tinh Nguyens, set up court at Hue, which became the centre of political intrigue, intellectual TINH 1 excellence and spiritual guidance. Later em- perors were subdued by expanding French Cha Lo Ky Anh ambitions in Vietnam, and by the time of in- dependence the locus of national power had Phong Nha-Ke Bang shifted back to Hanoi. National Park In 1954, Vietnam was fatefully parti- LAOS Dong Hoi C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NG eiontrhttihBn-ignCheTnhPterrroaevl&i nVAci ewetanyam tioned into North and South, creating a QUANG Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) that saw some of 0 the heaviest fighting of the American War. 0 BINH Vinh Moc Thousands of lives were lost in bloody bat- Lao Tunnels tles as entire cities, including Vinh and most Bao Dong Ha of Hue’s imperial enclosure, were flattened. QUANG Vast tracts of countryside around Dong Hoi and Dong Ha remain littered with lethal TRI ordnance. Historic Hoi An was one of the few places spared. THUA Hue THIEN-HUÉ Today, tourism drives Hue and Hoi An, and Danang is expanding with energy and QUANG An Bang Danang investment, but the region’s north remains NAM My Son Hoi An relatively undeveloped. 100 km 60 miles Chien Dan NORTH-CENTRAL Towers VIETNAM 88 Getting There & Away Central Vietnam Highlights The main north–south railway cuts directly through the region, as does Hwy 1 and the Ho Chi 1 Travelling back in time in the historic Minh Hwy. There are airports at Vinh and Dong old port of Hoi An (p203). Hoi, with flights to Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) and 2 Going underground at the astounding Hanoi. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park (p162), the world’s foremost caving Ninh Binh Province destination. South of Hanoi, Ninh Binh province is bless- 3 Treading in the footsteps of emperors ed with natural beauty, cultural sights and from the Forbidden Purple City to the the Cuc Phuong National Park. However, imperial tombs of Hue (p174). Ninh Binh is very popular with domestic 4 Taking it easy amid the relaxed beach travellers, and many attractions are heavily scene at An Bang (p220). commercialised. Expect hawkers and a de- 5 Experiencing the urban energy and gree of hassle at the main sights. bright lights of exciting Danang (p193). 6 Wondering while you wander amid the enigmatic Cham ruins at My Son (p224). 7 Testing your two-wheel prowess on a motorbike tour (p212) around the idyllic back roads of central Vietnam. 8 Exploring the fascinating Vinh Moc Tunnels (p170) in the Demilitarised Zone.

154 North-Central Vietnam 0 50 km 0 25 miles Hanoi (68 km) Xam Vieng Na Meo Quan PNuaTCtLuhaur1ume5oynRNNgeChaTsuVetohicrionuvQPnhneahugluaNFKPnoCVlneahohrngiaalkulhmtaaDignGBiegnaahiKTCenaoRVmhTcearGsanBNenaILHrIgNNvNooeAHinHanPnghhLNuaBDtNNDaiDtnIAiauNnhimreMheHm 10 Nua Xai Hoa Loc Thai Binh Nam Xoi Ba Thuoc THAI THANH BINH HOA Xuan Thuy Chu River LAOS Thuong Tho 1 Que Xuan Xuan Thanh Hoa Phong Sam Son C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NG eiontrhttihBn-ignCheTnhPterrroaevl&i nVAci ewetanyamuong XenNam Can Quy Nghia Tinh Gia (40km) NGHE Chau Dan 1 Tuong AN Quynh Luu Duong Quy Hop Dien Chau Ca River Cua Lo Beach 7 Nghi Loc Con Cuong Anh Son Tan Ky Gulf of Tonkin Do Luong 7 Thanh Nam Dan Chuong Kim Lien Vinh LAOS Tay Son 8 Duc Can Loc (Trung Tam) Tho Keo Nua Pass Cau Ha Tinh Treo Nam HA Phao TINH Lak Sao Nam Phao River Cam Xuyen 1 Mui Ron 8 T ru notnagi nSso n Ky Anh M Tuyen Hoa o u Deo Ngang Tu Lan Caves Quang Mekong Phong Nha-Ke Bang Trach Cha Lo National Park Bo River Na Phao Phong Nha Son Trach Nhat Le Nakhon Cave Trach Beach Phanom Tha Khaek Paradise Hang En Dong Cave Hang Son Hoi Doong THAILAND 15 Lao Bao (45km) Ninh Binh Vietnamese flock to nearby sights, including the nation’s biggest pagoda and the Unesco % 030 / POP 158,000 World Heritage–listed Trang An grottoes. Ninh Binh is a good base for exploring quin- The region has significant natural allure, tessentially Vietnamese limestone scenery. but insensitive development combines giant A few Western tourists head here, but many cement factories next to nature spots.

T Tours 155 Hotels can organise tours around Ninh Binh W) With a riverside setting around 5km province. from Tam Coc, Nguyen Shack’s easygoing lazy days thatched bungalows are the per- Truong Nguyen TOUR fect antidote to the bustle of Hanoi. Lie in a hammock, drop a fishing rod off your rustic (%091 566 6211, 0165 348 8778; truong_tour@ terrace, or grab a bicycle and go exploring. yahoo.com) Freelance guide Truong offers There’s an on-site restaurant and bar too. escorted motorbike trips around Ninh Binh Mua Cave Ecolodge LODGE $$ using country back roads, and also trekking in Pu Luong Nature Reserve, a forested area (%030-361 8754; www.muacaveecolodge.com; Khe Ha village, Hoa Lu district; s/d 500,000/750,000d; across two mountain ridges, where you can aW) Surrounded by rice paddies and karst stay in Thai and Hmong homestays. limestone, this ecolodge has spacious rooms 4 Sleeping and bungalows with a tinge of heritage style. A quirky highlight is the restaurant and bar Ninh Binh city has good-value hotels and located within a cave. Half- and full-day guesthouses. There’s also excellent accom- tours are available around the area. It’s rel- modation around greater Ninh Binh, often atively isolated, so you’ll need to count on conveniently located for cycling to the area’s eating at the lodge as well. C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NT oionurhrtshB-i nChe nPtrroavli nVci eetnam attractions. 4 Ninh Binh City Limestone View Homestay GUESTHOUSE $$ (%091 845 3761; limestoneviewhomestay@gmail. Xuan Hoa Hotel 1 HOTEL $ com; Ð Xuan Thanh, Xuan Ang village, Hoa Lu dis- (%030-388 0970; www.xuanhoahotel.com; 31d P trict; s/d US$40/57; aW) With a village lo- Minh Khai; r US$15-30; aiW) A friendly op- cation convenient for Tam Coc (5km), Hoa eration with rooms across two buildings. Lu (5km) or Trang An (2km), Limestone The original Xuan Hoa Hotel 1 has a room View has four private rooms, and the com- where guests can leave their luggage or have pany of a friendly Dzung family and their a free shower after checkout. Nearby Xuan school-age kids. When we dropped by, there Hoa Hotel 2 (%030-388 0970; 3d P Minh Khai; r were plans to transform the rooftop into a US$6-12; naiW) has balconies overlooking restaurant and cafe. Bicycles are available to a quiet neighbourhood. Before dining at the go exploring. Xuan Hoa Hotel 1, have a beer on the edge of oTam Coc Garden BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ the compact lake. (%096 603 2555; www.tamcocgarden.com; Hai Nham village, Hoa Lu district; d US$116-152; Thanh Thuy’s Guest House aWs) The most Zen place to stay around & New Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ Ninh Binh is this lovely boutique hotel. In (%030-387 1811; www.hotelthanhthuy.com; 53 Ð Le Hong Phong; dm US$6, r US$12-30; aiW) a private location and surrounded by a sea This guesthouse’s courtyard and restaurant of rice paddies, Tam Coc Garden has eight are a great place to meet other travellers. Of- stone and timber bungalows set in a luxu- fers good-value, clean rooms, some with bal- riant garden. Following a day of cycling or cony, and also books tours. Cheaper rooms exploring nearby attractions, there’s the are fan-only. compact pool to look forward to. Thuy Anh Hotel HOTEL $$ Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh HOTEL $$$ (%030-387 1602; www.thuyanhhotel.com; 55a Ð Truong Han Sieu; r 400,000-700,000d; naiW) (%030-365 8333; www.emeraldaresort.com; Van Long Nature Reserve; r US$119-140, ste US$184; Choose between inexpensive, good-value naWs) Built in a neotraditional style rooms in the old wing or spotless and com- fortable rooms in the new wing. You’ll also this large resort hotel has comfortable villas with elegant decor, a great pool area and a find a top-floor bar and restaurant serving (pricey) spa. However, staff speak limited Western-style food (including hearty compli- mentary breakfasts). English and the location, though in lovely grounds, is 10km north of town and near cement factories. 4 Around Ninh Binh 5 Eating & Drinking oNguyen Shack BUNGALOW $$ (%030-361 8678; www.nguyenshack.com; near Plan to eat early as not much is open after Mua Cave, Hoa Lu district; bungalows US$25-55; 9pm. There’s a good restaurant – open to

156 Ninh Binh e# 0 400 m Chookie’s CAFE $ 0 0.2 miles (www.facebook.com/chookiesninhbinh; 17 Ð Luong A B Van Tuy; meals 30,000-70,000d; h11.30am-10pm; 66·/1 W) Good-value Vietnamese and Western 1 Hong Phong 8 #û food, cheap beer, and plenty of local infor- Ð Phanh Ð Van Giang Ximang Le Bridge 1 mation about what to do and see around ÐVLaunoTnugy#ú6 ÿ# 1 Ð Ninh Binh. Also offers motorbike and car Dinh Phung tours around the area. 2 Ð Tran Hung DaoÐ Van Giang 66ÐKim #ì ÐHTarnuSoiú#negu ÿ# Ð Huong Dieu Snail Restaurants VIETNAMESE $ (meals 30,000-60,000d) The lanes north of Ð 2 Dong Ð Le Dai HaVannhRiver Luong Van Tuy, close to the stadium, have ò# 5 snail restaurants serving oc luoc xa (snails Hospital HÐoaHTohaú#an7mg StaTtr£#iaoinn 2 cooked with lemongrass and chilli). You’ll (380m) find a few casual bars here too. 666Ð HLaani TOhnugong Lim ›#BStuastion Cho Bop Market MARKET $ Bridge (Truong Han Sieu; h6am-4pm) For fresh fruit C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NIniofnrohtrhBm-ianCtheinoPtnrroavli nVci eetnam D and street food. ÐÐNgTruayennHHuuneg Dao P Minh ÿ#3 Bia Hoi BAR Khai 666/·TamCoc 1 For drinking bia hoi (draught beer), try the ÿ# riverside places that are located near the 34 3 local brewery. (9km) D 88 Information AB Hospital (Benh Vien Da Khoa Tinh; % 030-387 1030; Ð Hai Thuong Lan Ong; h24hr) Main city Ninh Binh hospital. Main Post Office (Ð Tran Hung Dao; h7am- 666ÿ Sleeping 6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) 1 Thanh Thuy's Guest House & Vietin Bank & ATM (Ð Tran Hung Dao; h7am- New Hotel .......................................... A1 2.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-noon Sat) One of two 2 Thuy Anh Hotel .................................... A1 branches on this street. 3 Xuan Hoa Hotel 1 .................................A3 4 Xuan Hoa Hotel 2.................................A3 88 Getting There & Away ú Eating BUS 5 Cho Bop market...................................A2 Ninh Binh’s bus station (Ð Le Dai Hanh) is 6 Chookie's.............................................. A1 located near Lim Bridge. Public buses leave 7 Trung Tuyet .........................................B2 every 15 minutes until 7pm for the Giap Bat and Luong Yen bus stations in Hanoi (from û Drinking & Nightlife 65,000d, 2½ hours), and there are regular buses 8 Bia Hoi .................................................. B1 to Haiphong (85,000d, three hours, every 1½ hours) and twice-daily connections to Halong outside guests – and cold beer at the Xuan City (120,000d, 3½ hours). Hoa 1 hotel Ninh Binh is also a stop for open-tour buses The local speciality is de (goat meat), between Hanoi (US$6, two hours) and Hue served with fresh herbs and rice paper. (US$14, 10 hours). Hotel pick-up and drop-offs Around 3km out of town, the road to Trang are available. An is lined with goat meat restaurants. TRAIN Trung Tuyet VIETNAMESE $ The train station (Ga Ninh Binh; 1 Ð Hoang Hoa (14 Ð Hoang Hoa Tham; meals 40,000-75,000d; Tham) is a scheduled stop on the main north– h7am–9.45pm) Expect filling portions and a south line, with destinations including Hanoi warm welcome from the host family at this (from 85,000d, two to 2½ hours, four daily), busy little place that’s popular with travel- Vinh (from 108,000d, six hours, four daily) and lers. They’ll even drop you off at the nearby Hue (from 301,000d, 12½ to 13½ hours, four train station if you’re kicking on after your daily). meal.

157 88 Getting Around b­ eauty along the Ngo Dong River, but it is also immensely popular with domestic tour- Most hotels rent out bicycles (around US$2 per ists. Consider visiting early morning or late day) and motorbikes (US$5 to US$8 per day). afternoon when things are quieter. Rowers Motorbike drivers charge around US$10 a day. use their feet to propel the oars, as the route (around two hours) negotiates Tam Coc’s Tam Coc three caves. Unfortunately the area is now overshadowed by giant cement factories. With limestone outcrops amid serene rice You can’t see them from the river, but air paddies, Tam Coc is best appreciated on a lan- quality and pollution are concerns. guorous row-boat ride with the soundtrack of the river lapping against the oars. Bich Dong Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE Unfortunately, you’ll need to be prepared (Jade Grotto) F This charming cluster of for a glut of fairly persistent hawkers. The cave temples is a couple of kilometres north guys photographing you will want to sell of Tam Coc. The Lower Pagoda is located at you the pix when you return, and overpriced the base, from which 100 steps lead to the drinks and snacks are sold at the turn­ Middle Pagoda, then a shorter but steep as- around point for boat trips. cent to the Upper Pagoda. Inside each cave temple, looming statues peer from the haze C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m GN eiontrhttihBn-ignCheAnrPtorruoanvldi nVci eetnam Bring your own refreshments, and com- of burning incense. Outside offers incredible bine a polite but firm ‘no’ and complete lack countryside views. of interest to combat the hawkers. 1 Sights & Activities Van Lan VILLAGE Tam Coc Boat Trips BOATING Near the entrance to Tam Coc, Van Lan is (adult/child 120,000/60,000d, boat 150,000d, famous for its embroidery. Local artisans maximum 2 per boat; h7am-3.30pm) Tam Coc (meaning ‘three caves’) boasts surreal make napkins, tablecloths, pillowcases and T-shirts. Bargain hard. PHAT DIEM Home to a huge cathedral, combining Sino-Vietnamese and European architecture, Phat Diem makes an intriguing half-day excursion. During colonial times, Phat Diem’s bishop ruled the area with his private army, until French troops took over in 1951. The cathedral (1891) featured in Graham Greene’s novel The Quiet American – from the bell tower the author watched battles between the North Vietnamese Army (NVA) and the French. The entrance can be busy with hawkers, but inside is peaceful. The cathedral’s largely wooden interior boasts a vaulted ceiling supported by massive columns. Above the gran- ite altar Vietnamese-looking cherubs swarm, while Chinese-style clouds drift across the blue ceiling. Beneath are icons of the martyrs slaughtered by Emperor Tu Duc during the 1850’s anti-Catholic purges. Opposite the cathedral’s main doors is the free-standing bell tower, and two enor- mous stone slabs are where mandarins used to observe the Catholic mass. Between the tower and the cathedral is the tomb of the Vietnamese founder, Father Six, and a Lourdes-style grotto. Many Vietnamese tourists visit, few of them Catholic, but many curious about Christi- anity. Mass is celebrated daily at 5am and 5pm, when the massive bell is rung. Near Phat Diem is a late-19th-century covered bridge. Dong Huong Pagoda is the area’s largest Buddhist pagoda, and many of its congregation are minority Muong people. Turn right at the canal at the north of town, and continue alongside the water for 3km. A Gothic counterpoint to Phat Diem is the cathedral at Ton Dao, along Route 10 about 5km from Phat Diem. At the rear, a statue of the Virgin Mary keeps unexpected company with porcelain images of Quan Am. Phat Diem, also known as Kim Son, is 26km southeast of Ninh Binh. Buses run from Ninh Binh (25,000d, one hour), and xe om drivers charge about 200,000d for a return trip.

158 electric train (per person 30,000d) contin- ues to the main entrance. If you arrive inde- 88 Getting There & Away pendently by bicycle, you’ll still be directed to the car park to catch the train. Tam Coc is 9km southwest of Ninh Binh. Ninh Binh hotels run tours, or make your own way by The entrance leads to cloistered walk- bicycle or motorbike. Hotels can advise on beau- ways past 500 stone arhats (enlightened tiful back roads. Hanoi tour operators offer day Buddhists) lining the route to the main trips from around US$25. t­ riple-roofed Phap Chu pagoda. This con- tains a 10m, 100-tonne bronze Buddha, Mua Cave flanked by two more gilded Buddha figures. Mua Cave CAVE Steps behind lead to a viewpoint, a 13-storey pagoda and a giant Buddha. (Cave of Dance; admission 30,000d; h7am-4pm) The compound’s central area features Down a sleepy road between rice paddies, more temples, including one showcasing a this cave is not terribly impressive, but there 36-tonne bell, the largest in Vietnam. Most are panoramic views from the peak above. structures use natural materials, and the A stone staircase beside the cave entrance complex’s impressive bronzework, lacquer- zigzags through the karst (beware the goat work and stone-carving was crafted by local droppings) and it’s almost 500 steps to a artisans. simple altar to Quan Am (the Goddess of C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NG eiontrhttihBn-ignCheTnhPterrroaevl&i nVAci ewetanyam Mercy). Look west for the Ngo Dong River Chua Bai Dinh is 11km northwest of Ninh winding through Tam Coc. Binh, and attracts many Vietnamese visi- The climb is paved but steep in sections, tors. Think twice if you’re after a spiritual so bring water and allow an hour. Mua Cave experience. is 5km from Ninh Binh and is a popular stop on Tam Coc tours. Kenh Ga Hoa Lu Kenh Ga (Chicken Canal) is named after the wild chickens that used to live here. Today, a Hoa Lu was the capital of Vietnam during riverine way of life and stunning limestone the Dinh (AD 968–80) and early Le (AD formations are the main draw. 980–1009) dynasties. The Dinh chose the site to distance themselves from China. Locals spend many hours on the water, watching over fish-breeding pens or selling Most of the ancient citadel is in ruins, but vegetables boat-to-boat. Even the children there are two surviving temples (admission commute to school by river. This was largely 10,000d; h24hr). Dinh Tien Hoang is dedi- a floating village, but more land-based hous- cated to the Dinh dynasty and has the stone es have now been built. pedestal of a royal throne. Inside are bronze bells and a statue of Emperor Dinh Tien From the pier, hire a motorboat (two Hoang with his three sons. p­ eople, 200,000d) for a 1½-hour ride around the village. Kenh Ga is best seen in the wet The second temple is dedicated to mon- season from June to September. During arch Le Dai Hanh. It has drums, gongs, other months, boats are far less frequent as weapons and a statue of the king and his water levels are lower and there are fewer queen and son. A modest museum features visitors to the area. an excavated 10th-century city wall. Kenh Ga is 21km from Ninh Binh, off the For a great perspective of the ruins, hike road to Cuc Phuong National Park. Follow 20 minutes to the tomb of Emperor Dinh Hwy 1 north for 11km, then it’s 10km west Tien Hoang. Access is via the hill opposite to the pier. the ticket office. Van Long Nature Reserve Hoa Lu is 12km northwest of Ninh Binh; turn left 6km north of town on Hwy 1. There Set amid limestone pinnacles, this tran- is no public transport, but tours leave from quil reserve (admission 15,000d, boat 90,000d; Ninh Binh. h7am-5pm) comprises a reedy wetland ideal for birdwatching. Look for the rare black- Chua Bai Dinh faced spoonbill, cotton pygmy goose and white-browed crake. The reserve is also one Completed in 2014, the Buddhist complex of the last refuges of the endangered Dela- of Chua Bai Dinh (h7am-5.45pm) F is cour’s langur. hugely popular with Vietnamese tourists. Tours arrive at the main car park where an

159 Row-boat rides (90 minutes, maximum Trang An is 7km northwest of Ninh Binh. C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NG eiontrhttihBn-ignCheTnhPterrroaevl&i nVAci ewetanyam two people per boat) are a more relaxed You’ll pass it on the way to the Chua Bai alternative to occasional hawker hassles Dinh. at Tam Coc. Ninh Binh hotels can arrange tours. Cuc Phuong National Park Van Long is 2km east of Tran Me, 23km % 030 / ELEVATION 150-656M from Ninh Binh along the road to Cuc Phuong. With 307 bird species, 133 mammals, 122 reptiles and more than 2000 different Trang An Grottoes plants, this national park is one Vietnam’s most important protected areas. Trang An (h7.30am-4pm) offers a similar experience to Tam Coc, though it is very Cuc Phuong spans two limestone moun- commercial. The sheer number of boats, tain ranges and three provinces. Its highest vast parking lots and weekend traffic jams peak is Dinh May Bac (Silver Cloud Peak) at can make it very busy with local tourists. 656m. In 1962, Ho Chi Minh declared this However, access for hawkers is more tight- Vietnam’s first national park, saying: ‘Forest ly controlled, and visitors experience mini- is gold’. mum hassle. The area was granted Unesco World Heritage status in 2014, which, de- Unfortunately, poaching and habitat de- spite the numbers visiting, should ensure struction plague the park. Improved roads the stunning landscapes and water quality have led to illegal logging, and many native are protected. species – the Asiatic black bear, Siamese crocodile, wild dog and tiger – have now Rowboats bob along the Sao Khe River vanished from the area. Other wildlife is through limestone caves. It’s a relaxing trip, notoriously elusive, so manage your expec- but many caves have also been enlarged to tations accordingly. accommodate boats, including the removal of the odd pesky stalactite. The park is also home to the minority Mu- ong people, whom the government relocated Boat trips (150,000d per person, or from the park’s central valley to its western 600,000d for your own boat) take two hours, edge in the late 1980s. and there are two possible routes, both visit- ing caves and temples. Bring a hat and sun- The best time to visit is in the dry months screen as the boats lack shade. from November to February. From April to June it becomes increasingly hot, wet and muddy, and from July to October the rains arrive, bringing lots of leeches. Visitors in SAVING MONKEYS & TURTLES Cuc Phuong’s conservation centres offer a glimpse of the fascinating animals they’re helping. Arrange a guide (no charge) from the visitor centre to escort you to these places around 2km from the entrance. The Endangered Primate Rescue Center (%030-384 8002; admission 30,000d; h9-11am & 1.30-4pm) is supervised by the Frankfurt Zoological Society, and is home to around 150 monkeys: 12 kinds of langur, three species of gibbon and two loris. All the centre’s animals were either bred here or rescued from illegal traders. The centre has bred more than 100 offspring in all, from nine different species, includ- ing the world’s first captive-born Cat Ba langur and grey-shanked douc langur. Because it’s difficult to rehabilitate primates once they’ve lived in cages, only 30 or so gibbons and langurs have been released into semi-wild areas (one site is adjacent) since the centre opened in 1993. The Turtle Conservation Center (%030-384 8090; www.asianturtleprogram.org; h9-11am & 2-4.45pm) houses more than 1000 terrestrial, semi-aquatic and aquatic turtles representing 20 of Vietnam’s 25 native species. Many have been confiscated from smugglers who have been driven by demand from the domestic and Chinese markets – eating turtle is thought to aid longevity. Displays include incubation and hatchling viewing areas. The centre successfully breeds and releases turtles from 11 different species, including six native turtles. Around 60 turtles are released back into the wild each year.

160 Bong Sub-Station GUESTHOUSE $ April and May might see millions of butter- (stilt house per person US$8, bungalows US$23-27) flies. Note, weekends can be busy with Viet- At the reserve’s heart, Bong is 18km from namese families. the entrance and good for early morning The visitor centre has English-speaking walks and birdwatching. There are simple staff, and can arrange guides and tours. rooms with no hot water in a stilt house, and more-private bungalows. 1 Sights & Activities Kanh Village Homestays HOMESTAY $ Cuc Phuong (%030-384 8006; www.cucphu (per person US$10) Simple homestays with ongtourism.com; adult/child 40,000/20,000d) Muong families can be organised by park offers excellent hiking. Short walks in- staff. clude a 220-step trail up to the Cave of Prehistoric Man. Human graves and tools Cuc Phuong Resort RESORT $$$ found here date back 7500 years, making (%030-384 8886; www.cucphuongresort.com; it one of Vietnam’s oldest sites of human Dong Tam village; bungalow/villa from US$92/153; ­habitation. aiWs) This resort is near a natural spring, enabling mineral-rich water to be Popular hikes include a 6km-return walk C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SNiognrhhtthBs-i nC&heAnPcttrroiavvliitnVi cei esetnam pumped into wooden bath-tubs in each to the massive, 1000-year-old ‘old tree’ (Te- room. There are (spring-fed) indoor and trameles nudiflora) and a longer four-hour outdoor pools, tennis courts and an impres- walk to Silver Cloud Peak. There’s also a sive spa; breakfast is included. It’s 2km from strenuous 15km (approximately five-hour) the park entrance. Rooms are cheapest from hike to Kanh, a Muong village. You can stay Sunday to Thursday. overnight here with local families and raft on the Buoi River (80,000d). 88 Getting There & Away Park staff can provide basic maps, but Cuc Phuong National Park is 45km from Ninh a guide is recommended for day trips and Binh. The turn-off from Hwy 1 is north of Ninh mandatory for longer treks. Two-hour es- Binh and follows the road that runs to Kenh Ga corted night hikes to spot nocturnal an- and Van Long Nature Reserve. imals, or the Silver Cloud Peak hike both cost US$25 (for up to five people). The Deep Buses (two hours, 80,000d) from Hanoi’s Jungle trek (US$60) gets into remote ter- Giap Bat southern bus station depart to the rain where you might spot flying squirrels. town of Nho Quan near Cuc Phuong regularly See the park’s website for other one-day and from 8am to 4pm, with return buses to Hanoi overnight options. from 7am to 3pm. From Nho Quan to the park, catch a xe om (100,000d) or taxi (200,000d). 4 Sleeping & Eating There’s also a direct bus from Giap Bat to Cuc Phuong departing at 3pm, with a return bus to There is accommodation in the park, and Hanoi at 9am. one luxury resort nearby. It’s advised to book for weekends and public holidays. Camping From Ninh Binh, catch a xe om or taxi to the park. (per person US$4) is also available at the vis- Hanoi tour companies offer trips to Cuc itor centre or Mac Lake. Phuong, usually combined with other sights in the Ninh Binh area. There are simple restaurants and snack shops at the park headquarters and Mac Vinh Lake. Practically obliterated during the Ameri- Park Headquarters GUESTHOUSE $ can War, Vinh was rebuilt with East Ger- (s US$16-35, d US$27-50, stilt house US$14, bun- man aid – hence the brutalist concrete galow US$23) Beside the park entrance, with architecture that dominates the downtown a­ccommodation including recently redeco- area. The only reasons to stop here are if rated ‘deluxe’ rooms, a stilt house and a pri- you’re a Ho Chi Minh devotee (he was born vate bungalow. Non-deluxe rooms are quite in a nearby village), or if you’re heading ­to dark, but still adequate. Laos. Mac Lake BUNGALOW $ Vinh is a major transport hub that has (bungalows US$16-27) Attractive bungalows regular bus services to HCMC, Hanoi, overlooking Mac Lake are 2km inside the Danang and Dien Bien Phu, and trains park, though the location is quite isolated to all stops north to Hanoi and south to and the restaurant often undersupplied. HCMC. Open-tour buses pass through town

161 GETTING TO LAOS: VINH TO PHONSAVAN & LAK SAO C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NG eiontrhttihBn-ignCheTnhPterrroaevl&i nVAci ewetanyam An alternative crossing is from the Vietnamese city of Thanh Hoa to Sam Neua in Laos, but this route is plagued by reports of rampant overcharging of non-Vietnamese travel- lers by taxi drivers and bus companies. Vinh to Phonsavan Getting to the border The often mist-shrouded Nam Can/Nong Haet border crossing is 250km northwest of Vinh. Buses leave at 6am Mondays, Wednesdays, Fri- days and Saturdays for Luang Prabang (700,000d, 22 hours) via Phonsavan (410,000d, 12 hours). It’s possible to travel independently from Vinh to Muong Xen by bus and then take a motorbike (around 170,000d) uphill to the border, but we strongly recommend you take the direct option due to overcharging and hassle. At the border The border post’s opening hours are from 7am to 5pm. Vietnamese visas aren’t available, but Lao visas are available for most nationalities for between US$30 and US$40. Moving on Travellers not on the direct bus connection face numerous challenges. Firstly you’ll have to haggle over a motorbike ride from the border to the nearest town, Muong Xen. The route is breathtaking but only 25km downhill and should cost around 100,000d; drivers may ask for up to 300,000d. From Muong Xen there are irregular buses to Vinh (125,000d, six hours). Note that some buses from Phonsavan claim to continue to Hanoi or Danang, but unceremoniously discharge all their passengers in Vinh. Transport on the Laos side to Nong Haet is erratic, but once you get there you can pick up a bus to Phonsavan. Vinh to Lak Sao Getting to the border The Cau Treo/Nam Phao border crossing has a dodgy reputation with travellers on local non-direct buses, who report chronic overcharging and hassle (such as bus drivers ejecting foreigners in the middle of nowhere unless they cough up extra bucks). Stick to direct services. Most transport to Phonsavan in Laos uses the Nong Haet–Nam Can border further north. Buses leave Vinh at 6am (on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays) for Vieng Khan in Laos (280,000d). There are also regular local buses from Vinh to Tay Son (70,000d, two hours) and then irregular services from Tay Son on to the border at Cau Treo. Otherwise xe om (motorbike taxis) ask for around 170,000d for the ride. At the border The border is open from 7am to 5pm. Lao visas are available. Moving on If you’re not on a direct bus, expect rip-offs. Upon entering Vietnam bus drivers quote up to US$40 for the ride to Vinh. A metered taxi costs about US$50, a motorbike about 320,000d. Some buses from Lak Sao claim to run to Danang or Hanoi, but in fact terminate in Vinh. On the Laos side, a jumbo or songthaew (truck) between the border and Lak Sao runs to about 50,000 kip (bargain hard). between Hanoi and Hue, and while it’s easy Around Vinh to ask to jump off here, it’s difficult to ar- range a pick-up. CUA LO BEACH Most convenient for Lao-bound travellers Cua Lo offers white sand, clean water, pine is the Thanh An Hotel (%030-384 3478; 156 trees and good seafood restaurants, but the Nguyen Thai Hoc; r 230,000-350,000d; aiW), karaoke and massage parlours won’t suit all with a handy location 300m south of the travellers. main bus terminal, and comfortable rooms with attractive wooden furniture and good Huge government hotels face the beach beds. and behind them are uninspired guesthouses (rooms 300,000d to 400,000d). In summer, rooms can go for triple the usual price.

C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NPS ihogorhntthgs-NC&heAnact-tKrieavlBi taVinei egstNnaatmi o na l Pa r k162 In the past, access to the national park Cua Lo is 16km northeast of Vinh and can was limited and strictly controlled by the Vietnamese military. Access is still quite be reached by motorbike (180,000d includ- tightly controlled for good reason (the park ing waiting time) or taxi (around 140,000d is still riddled with unexploded ordnance). one way). Officially you are not allowed to hike here without a licensed tour operator. You can, KIM LIEN however, travel independently (on a mo- Ho Chi Minh’s 1890 birthplace in Hoang torbike or car) on the Ho Chi Minh Hwy or Tru, and the village of Kim Lien, where he Hwy 20, which cut through the park. spent some of his formative years, are around 14km northwest of Vinh. For the party faith- The Phong Nha region is changing fast. ful, these pilgrimage spots (h7-11.30am & Son Trach village (population 3000) is the 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm Sat & Sun) main centre, with an ATM, a growing range F offer recreated bamboo houses, dressed of accommodation and eating options, and sparsely with furniture. Not far from the Kim improving transport links with other parts Lien house – around 2km from Hoang Tru – of central Vietnam. is a shrine-like museum, and a shop with Ho memorabilia. The caves are the region’s absolute high- lights, but the above-ground attractions of No English-language information is at ei- forest trekking, the area’s war history, and ther site. From Vinh, xe om drivers charge rural mountain biking means it deserves a 130,000d (including waiting time), and taxis stay of around three days. ask around 250,000d. Phong Nha-Ke Bang 1 Sights & Activities National Park The Phong Nha region is exploding in popu- % 052 larity, and it’s recommended that overnight caving tours for Tu Lan, Hang Va and Hang Designated a Unesco World Heritage site in En are booked in advance if possible. 2003, the remarkable Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park F contains the oldest oTu Lan Cave CAVE karst mountains in Asia, formed approxi- mately 400 million years ago. Riddled with (www.oxalis.com.vn; 2-day tour 5,500,000d) The hundreds of cave systems – many of extraor- Tu Lan cave trip begins with a countryside dinary scale and length – and spectacular hike then a swim (with headlamps and life underground rivers, Phong Nha is a speleol- jackets) through two spectacular river caves ogist’s heaven on earth. before emerging in an idyllic valley. Then there’s more hiking through dense forest to Serious exploration only began in the a ‘beach’ where rivers merge that’s an ideal 1990s, lead by the British Cave Research campsite. There’s more wonderful swim- Association and Hanoi University. Cavers ming here in vast caverns. Moderate fitness first penetrated deep into Phong Nha Cave, levels are necessary. Tu Lan is 65km north one of the world’s longest systems. In 2005 of Son Trach and can only be visited on a Paradise Cave was discovered, and in 2009 guided tour. a team found the world’s largest cave – Son Longer Tu Lan tours are also available. Doong. In 2015 public access to two more The longer excursions penetrate deeper into cave systems was approved. the jungle, but as the region is so pristine even day hikes are rewarding. Howard and Above the ground, most of the moun- Deb Limbert, consultants to tour operator tainous 885 sq km of Phong Nha-Ke Bang Oxalis, discovered these caves in 2010. See National Park is near-pristine tropical ev- the Oxalis website for details and costs of ergreen jungle, more than 90% of which longer tours. is primary forest. It borders the biodiverse Hin Namno reserve in Laos to form an oHang Toi CAVE impressive, continuous slab of protected habitat. More than 100 types of mammal (Dark Cave; per person 350,000d) Incorporating (including 10 species of primate, tigers, an above-water zipline, followed by a swim elephants and the saola, a rare Asian an- into the cave, and then exploration of a telope), 81 types of reptile and amphibian, pitch-black passageway of oozing mud, it’s and more than 300 varieties of bird have little wonder Hang Toi is the cave experience been logged in Phong Nha. you may have already heard about from other travellers. Upon exiting the cave, a

163 leisurely kayak paddle heads to a jetty where Hang Va CAVE there’s more into-the-water zipline thrills to (www.oxalis.com.vn; per person 9,000,000d) Dis- be had. covered in 2012, and opened to visitors in The Dark Cave can be visited indepen­ 2015, Hang Va is explored on a two-day/one- dently or on the Farmstay’s National Park night excursion that travels firstly along an Tour (p164). underground river in Hang Nuoc Nut. Tours overnight in a jungle camp at the entrance Paradise Cave CAVE to Hang Va, where the cave’s highlight is a spectacular stalagmite field partly sub- (Thien Dong; adult/child under 1.3m merged in crystalline waters. Ropes and 250,000/125,000d; h7.30am-4.30pm) Sur- harnesses are used extensively. rounded by forested karst peaks, this re- markable cave system extends for 31km, though most people only visit the first kilo- Hang En CAVE metre. The scale is breathtaking, as wood- (per person 6,000,000d) This gigantic cave en staircases descend into a cathedral-like is very close to Hang Son Doong, and fea- space with colossal stalagmites and glim- tured in the same National Geographic mering stalactites. Get here early to beat the photographic spread in 2011. Getting here crowds, as during peak times (early after- involves a trek through dense jungle, valleys noon), tour guides shepherd groups using and the Ban Doong minority village, a very C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NPS ihogorhntthgs-NC&heAnact-tKrieavlBi taVinei egstNnaatmi o na l Pa r k megaphones. Paradise Cave is about 14km remote tribal settlement (with no electricity southwest of Son Trach. Electric buggies or roads). You stay overnight in the cave or (per person one-way/return 15,000/25,000d) a minority village. Tours can be booked via ferry visitors from the car park to the Oxalis or the Phong Nha Farmstay. entrance. To explore deep inside Paradise Cave, con- Phong Nha Museum MUSEUM sider booking Phong Nha Farmstay’s (p164) (admission 15,000d; h9am-5pm) Poignant 7km Paradise Cave tour (2,650,000d, mini- black-and-white photographs of the area’s mum two people), which includes a swim war history – especially the Ho Chi Minh through an underground river and lunch Trail and Hwy 20 – combine with an exhibi- under a light shaft. tion about the ongoing work done by MAG (Mine Action Group) in clearing unexploded CAVE ordnance around the region. Phong Nha Cave & Boat Trip (adult/child under 1.3m 150,000/25,000d, boat up to 14 people 320,000d; h7am-4pm) The spec- tacular boat trip through Phong Nha Cave is an enjoyable, though touristy, experience A RELAXING FORESTED beginning in Son Trach village. Boats cruise RETREAT along past buffalo, limestone peaks and church steeples to the cave’s gaping mouth. Nuoc Mooc Ecotrail (adult/child The engine is then cut and the boats are 80,000d/free; h7am-5pm) A beautiful negotiated silently through cavern after gar- riverside retreat inside Phong Nha- ishly illuminated cavern. On the return leg Ke Bang National Park, the wooden there’s the option to climb (via 330 steps) up walkways and paths of the Nuoc Mooc to the mountainside Tien Son Cave (ad- Ecotrail extend over a kilometre through mission 80,000d) with the remains of 9th-­ woods to the confluence of two rivers. century Cham altars. It’s a beautiful place for a swim, where you can wallow hippo-style in turquoise The ticket office and departure jetty are waters with a limestone-mountain in Son Trach village. Allow two hours to see backdrop. Recently added attractions Phong Nha; add an hour for Tien Son. In include an exciting rope bridge straight November and December seasonal floods from an Indiana Jones movie, and kay- may mean Phong Nha Cave is closed. Week- aking on a compact weir on the river. ends are extremely popular with Vietnam- Bring a picnic, or order food and drinks ese visitors, whose presence is amplified and dine in one of Nuoc Mooc’s breezy by the spectacular echoes and unventilated open-air pavilions. Nuoc Mooc is 12km cigarette smoke. Note the cave was used as a southwest of Son Trach, and is a great hospital and ammunition depot during the place to spend a relaxed day taking your American War and was heavily bombed. foot off the travel accelerator.

164 esting is bouncing in a US jeep or Russian Ural motorbike and sidecar exploring the T Tours area’s scenery and war history. The Farm- stay’s popular National Park Tour (per person Tours of Phong Nha are available from Dong 1,450,000d) travels by minibus to incorporate Hoi, but as the region offers so much, it’s the Ho Chi Minh Trail with Paradise Cave and best to stay near the national park. Tours Hang Toi. can be set up through most accommodation and the following recommended operators. Jungle Boss Trekking HIKING Don’t even consider a day trip from Hue, as you’ll spend most of the time on the road. oOxalis Adventure Tours TOUR (%094 374 8041; www.junglebosshomestay.com; per person US$75) Originally from the DMZ, (%091 990 0423; www.oxalis.com.vn; Son Trach) Dzung – aka ‘Jungle Boss’ – has been in Oxalis is unquestionably the expert in cav- ing and trekking expeditions, and is the only Phong Nha for eight years, and is an experi- enced guide to the area. He speaks excellent outfit licensed to conduct tours to Hang Son English and runs an exciting one-day tour Doong. Staff are all fluent English speak- ers, and trained by world-renowned British around the Ho Chi Minh Trail and the re- mote Abandoned Valley area of the national cavers Howard and Deb Limbert. All excur- park. You’ll need moderate to high fitness sions, from day trips to Tu Lan to week-long C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m PTNohouorrntshg-NC he nat- Krea lB aVni egtNnaatmi o na l Pa r k expeditions to the world’s largest cave, are levels. meticulously planned and employ local Hai’s Eco Conservation Tour HIKING guides and porters, so the wider community benefits. You can discuss trips at its riverside (%096 260 6844; www.phong-nha-bamboo-cafe. com; per person 1,000,000d) Interesting day Expedition Cafe. tours combining hiking in the jungle – you’ll Pre-booking Son Doong for the following need to be relatively fit – with a visit to year is essential, and if possible, booking Phong Nha’s Wildlife Rescue and Rehabil- a few months ahead for expeditions in Tu itation Centre, which rehabilitates rescued Lan and Hang En is recommended to avoid animals (mainly macaques from nearby disappointment. regions, but also snakes and birds). Prices include a barbecue lunch, and there’s an op- Phong Nha Farmstay Tours ADVENTURE TOUR portunity to cool off at the end of the day (%052-367 5135; www.phong-nha-cave.com; Cu in a natural swimming hole. Hai is usually Nam) The Farmstay can book cave tours – in at his Bamboo Cafe (p166) in the evenings. conjunction with Oxalis – but equally inter- HANG SON DOONG: WORLD’S LARGEST CAVE Ho Khanh, a hunter from a jungle settlement close to the Vietnam–Laos border, would often take shelter in the caves that honeycomb his mountain homeland. He stumbled across gargantuan Hang Son Doong (Mountain River Cave) in the early 1990s, but the sheer scale and majesty of the principal cavern (more than 5km long, 200m high and, in some places, 150m wide) was only confirmed as the world’s biggest cave when British explorers returned with him in 2009. The expedition team’s biggest obstacle was to find a way over a vast overhanging bar- rier of muddy calcite they dubbed the ‘Great Wall of Vietnam’ that divided the cave. Once they did, its true scale was revealed – a cave big enough to accommodate a battleship. Sections of it are pierced by skylights that reveal formations of ethereal stalagmites that cavers have called the Cactus Garden. Some stalagmites are up to 80m high. Colossal cave pearls have been discovered, measuring 10cm in diameter, formed by millennia of drips, as calcite crystals fused with grains of sand. Magnificent rimstone pools are pres- ent throughout the cave. Hang Son Doong is one of the most spectacular sights in Southeast Asia, and the government only approved (very restricted) access to the cave system in June 2013. The only specialist operator permitted (by the Vietnamese president no less) to lead tours here is Son Trach–based Oxalis. Son Doong is no day-trip destination: it’s in an extremely remote area and the only way to visit is by booking a seven-day expedition with around 16 porters. It costs US$3000 per person, with a maximum of 10 trekkers on each trip.

165 Phong Nha Oxalis Home HOTEL $$ (%052-367 7678; www.oxalis.com.vn; Son Trach; Adventure Cycling MOUNTAIN BIKING (%098 555 5827; www.phongnhacycling.jimdo. d mountain/river view 1,200,000/1,500,000d; com; per person US$65-87) Excellent mountain naW) This new riverside hotel is used by biking tours with the irrepressible Private travellers booking cave tours with Oxalis, Shi. Options include biking sections of the but is also open to others. Accommodation Ho Chi Minh Trail, visiting local villages, is in spacious rooms, either with river views, and lunch at the Chay Lap homestay in the or to equally spectacular karst mountain park. peaks. Bikes and kayaks – Oxalis Home has its own compact beach – are free for guests, 4 Sleeping and the on-site Expedition Cafe has elevated river views. There are simple local hotels in Son Trach town, all charging around 350,000d. Pepper House GUESTHOUSE $$ Easy Tiger HOSTEL $ (%016 7873 1560; www.facebook.com/pepper househomestay; Khuong Ha; dm 200,000d, villas (%052-367 7844; www.easytigerphongnha.com; 1,400,000d; aWs) Run by long-term Aussie Son Trach; dm 160,000d; aiWs) In Son Trach town, this hostel has four-bed dorms, expat Dave (aka ‘Multi’) and his local wife Diem, this welcoming place combines a ru- C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NPS lhoeorentphgi -nNCghe nat- Krea lB aVni egtNnaatmi o na l Pa r k a great bar-restaurant area, pool table ral setting and new double rooms in villas and excellent travel information. A swim- ming pool and beer garden makes it ideal arrayed around a compact swimming pool. There are also simpler dorms inside the for relaxation after trekking and caving. main house. Look forward to good food and And yes, the bedspreads are actually faux ­leopard-skin. Don’t ask. Do ask about free cold beer as well. Located 6km east of Son Trach. bicycles and a map to explore the interesting Bong Lai valley. Jungle Boss Homestay GUESTHOUSE $$ (%094 374 8041; www.junglebosshomestay.com; oPhong Nha Farmstay GUESTHOUSE $$ Son Trach; d/f US$40/50; aW) Run by the (%052-367 5135; www.phong-nha-cave.com; Cu Nam; r 900,000-1,200,000d, f 1,300,000- friendly Dzung – a local trekking guide with excellent English – and his wife Huong, this 2,000,000d; naiWs) The place that real- place has three simple but stylish rooms, ly put Phong Nha on the map, the Farmstay has peaceful views overlooking an ocean of and a great edge-of-the-village location with rice paddy views. Rates include breakfast rice paddies. Rooms are smallish but neat, and free use of bicycles, and Dzung also of- with high ceilings and shared balconies. The bar-restaurant serves up Asian and Western fers caving and jungle trekking trips. meals, and there’s a social vibe and occasion- Ho Khanh’s Homestay HOMESTAY $$ al movies and live music. Local tours are ex- cellent and there’s free bicycle hire. (%012 9959 7182; www.phong-nha-homestay.com; Son Trach; r US$45-50; aW) How often do you The Farmstay is in Cu Nam village, 9km get the chance to meet a Vietnamese legend? east of Son Trach. This homestay belongs to Ho Khanh, who discovered Son Doong, the world’s largest Phong Nha Lake cave. He’s also a master carpenter, and has House Resort HOTEL $$ four wood-panelled rooms, recently fitted (%052-367 5999; www.phongnhalakehouse.com; Khuong Ha; dm US$10, d US$42-60, f US$70; out with air-con and private bathrooms, and also excellent private bungalows. Drop aWs) Impressive lakeside resort owned by for a delicious chocolate coffee in the at- by an Australian-Vietnamese couple with an excellent dorm (with quality beds, mosquito tached cafe. nets, en-suite bathroom and high ceilings), Phong Nha and spacious and stylish villas. A pool and newer lake-view bungalows are more proof Homestay Community HOMESTAY $$ (%094 374 8041; www.phongnhahomestay. this is the area’s most comfortable place to com; Son Trach; d/f US$40/50) Numbering stay. The wooden restaurant is a traditional structure from Ha Giang province in north- three places to stay at the time of writing, this collection of local homestays includes ern Vietnam. the Jungle Boss Homestay, the Phong Nha The Lake House is located 7km east of Son Trach. Mountain House (a lovely wooden bunga- low), and the slightly more rustic Minh’s

166 farm-fresh). A kilo of perfectly grilled chick- Homestay in a traditional wooden house. en is 200,000d. All three have en-suite bathrooms and really welcoming family owners, and rates include Wild Boar Eco-Farm VIETNAMESE $$ breakfast. (Bong Lai valley; meals from 100,000d; h11am- 6pm) Surprisingly it’s roast chicken on of- 5 Eating & Drinking fer here, although giant porkers are raised as well. Reached by boat or via a bumpy At the time of writing, other rustic business- bike path, the attraction here is relaxing in es selling roast duck and local foods were simple bamboo shelters overlooking a river kicking off around the surrounding Bong valley. Service can be leisurely, so ask the Lai valley. Easy Tiger can provide you with team at Easy Tiger or the Farmstay to phone a map to get there by bike. Bamboo Cafe CAFE $ ahead and order. Oh, and for a map... When we dropped by, Cuong the owner (www.phong-nha-bamboo-cafe.com; Son Trach; had introduced river-tubing and was also meals 35,000-70,000d; h7am-10.30pm; W) This laid-back haven on Son Trach’s main drag looking at offering tented accommodation. has colourful decor, a cool outside deck, and Vung Hue VIETNAMESE $$ well-priced food and drink, including excel- C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NEPahotorintnhgg-NC&heDnart- iKrneaklBi naVgni egtNnaatmi o na l Pa r k lent fresh fruit smoothies. It’s also where (Son Trach; meals 70,000-130,000d; h11am-9pm) Your best bet for a Vietnamese meal in Son you’ll usually find the friendly Hai who runs Trach, with good-value multidish menus eco conservation tours (p164). and a handy location near the car park for departures to the Phong Nha Cave. Capture Vietnam CAFE $ (www.facebook.com/capturevietnam; Son Trach; snacks & meals 40,000-100,000d; h7am-7pm) Jungle Bar BAR Located beside Easy Tiger (p165), this cafe (Son Trach; h7am-midnight; W) The in-house bar-cafe at Easy Tiger is the most happen- has espresso coffee, homestyle baking, and ing place in Son Trach, with cheap beer, interesting Western and Vietnamese meals. There’s also an attached shop selling local pool tables, and live music four nights a week. Add to the growing display of nation- souvenirs – try the Phong Nha beef jerky – al flags if you’re feeling patriotic. There’s and takeaway beer, wine and cider. loads of local information on hand, even if you’re not staying at Easy Tiger. The Best Spit Roast Pork & Noodle Shop in the World (Probably...) VIETNAMESE $ 88 Information (Son Trach; meals 30,000-50,000d; h7am-4pm) Also probably the longest name of any res- Hai at the Bamboo Cafe is a superb source of taurant in Vietnam… sells excellent grilled independent travel information, and the helpful pork paired with noodles, baguettes or rice. staff at the Phong Nha Farmstay and Easy Tiger Get ready to smell this place well before you can assist with tours, information and transport. see it as you’re wandering Son Trach’s sleepy main street. There’s a tourist office opposite the jetty in Son Trach, but staff are not well versed regard- Mountain Goat Restaurant VIETNAMESE $$ ing independent travel. There’s a couple of adja- (Son Trach; goat from 150,000d; h11am-9pm) cent ATMs, but occasional power cuts mean they Dine on grilled and steamed de (goat) – try sometimes don’t work. It’s wise to bring enough the goat with lemongrass – at this riverside Vietnamese dong for your stay. spot in Son Trach. Other options include spicy chicken and ice-cold beer. From the 88 Getting There & Around Phong Nha Cave boat station, walk 150m along the river, just past the church. Son Trach town is 50km northwest of Dong Hoi. From Dong Hoi head 20km north on Hwy 1 to Bo Pub with Cold Beer BARBECUE, BAR $$ Trach, then turn west for another 30km. (Bong Lai valley; beer 20,000d,meals from 50,000d; h8am-8pm) Up a dirt track in the middle of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park abuts Son nowhere (but well signposted), this excellent Trach and spreads west to the Lao border. Until barn-cum-bar is owned by a local farming 2011 access was tightly controlled by the Viet- family and does what it says on the tin – the namese state, and some areas remain off limits beer is ice cold. Hungry? Order roast chick- to independent travellers. en with peanut sauce (all ingredients are Hotels can organise lifts in private cars from Dong Hoi (500,000d); they work together so rides can be shared between travellers to cut costs.

167 BUS Dong Hoi e# 0 44400 m Local buses (35,000d, 90 minutes) shuttle 0 0.2 miles between Dong Hoi’s bus station and Son Trach, Nam LongAPlaza (300m); B leaving regularly from 6am to 5pm. Dong Hoi’s D #– Dong Hoi (5km) railway station is around 1.3km from the bus 44 station and the city is on the main north–south ÿ#8 line. MY CANH 1 1 #ÿ 7 From Hue (around 120,000d, five hours), the Nhat Le Hung Thanh open-tour bus leaves 49 Ð Chu #5 10#ú#4 Ð Ho Xuang Van An at 4.30pm, and the Tan Nha bus leaves 3 9 Huong from the Why Not? bar on Ð Vo Thi Sau around Ð Nguyen Du 6.30am. #Ð Ly Thuong Kiet#ú 1 #Ü Tam Toa Church 6 #ÿ Coming from Danang or Hoi An, a local bus (250,000d, seven hours) leaves the Danang bus station for Phong Nha around 1pm. This service 2 D 2 ›# (800m); 3 has been haphazard so check with the Easy #£ (2.2km) Tiger or Oxalis websites for the latest status. Citadel Ð Hung Vung Dong Hoi Nhat Le River C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NSDiognrhgtthsH- Co&ei An&cttArriavoli utVineidestnam #â Citadel MOTORCYCLE & BICYCLE Motorcycling or scootering around the national Gate park is not recommended for inexperienced 3 Dong Hoi #â ì#ÐÐMNegTSuruayoietæ#n#ú211 Citadel 444drivers – the area is not well signposted and every year there’s an increasing number of injuries to travellers. A good option is to book 444a tour with Thang’s Phong Nha Riders (www. Gate Ð QTruuannggÐ Co Tam easytigerhostel.com/thangs-phong-nha-riders/; beside Easy Tiger). A day’s hire of a bike and A 44B4 44driver is around 400,000d, staff are well- versed in the sights of the area, and you’ll be providing work for enthusiastic locals. Thang’s Dong Hoi can also arrange motorbike transfers through absolutely stunning scenery to Hue or Khe æ Top Sights Sanh. 1 Tam Toa Church .................................. A1 Cycling is recommended to explore Phong æ Sights Nha’s rural back roads, especially the quirky 2 Fish Market ..........................................B3 collection of rustic local restaurants and ac- tivities popping up around the nearby Bong Lai valley. Easy Tiger rent bikes and can supply a Ø Activities, Courses & Tours handy map. 3 A2Z ....................................................... A1 4 Nam Long Hotel Tours ........................ A1 5 Phong Nha Discovery.......................... A1 Dong Hoi & Around ÿ Sleeping 6 Buffalo Hostel ......................................A2 % 052 / POP 116,000 7 Nam Long Hotel................................... A1 8 Nam Long Plus..................................... A1 Dong Hoi is a pleasantly untouristed, port and seaside town. It enjoys an attractive ú Eating location, clinging to the banks of the Nhat 9 7th Heaven ........................................... A1 Le River, and has beaches to the north and 10 Tree Hugger Cafe ................................ A1 south. 11 Tu Quy ..................................................B3 As the main staging area for the North û Drinking & Nightlife Vietnamese Army (NVA), Dong Hoi suffered Buffalo Pub .................................. (see 6) more than most during the American War. The town has since recovered as a bustling the haunting, ruined facade of the Tam Toa provincial capital, and also has excellent Church F, which was bombed in 1965. transport links to the Phong Nha region. All that remains of Dong Hoi Citadel 1 Sights & Activities (1825) are two restored gates, one close to the riverbank, the other on Ð Quang Trung. The Nhat Le River, which divides the city from a beautiful sandy spit, boasts a land- Get up early and check out the excellent scaped riverside promenade that includes fish market (Ð Me Suot; h6am-2pm).

168 Nam Long Hotel Tours TOUR Buffalo Hostel HOSTEL $ (%091 892 3595; www.namlonghotels.com/at (%052-381 5599; www.buffalodonghoi.com; 4 Ð tractions-tours/; 22 Ð Ho Xuan Huong) Variety Nguyen Du; dm/d 100,000/250,000d; aW) Dong of trips to Phong Nha and exploring the Hoi’s new hostel ticks all the boxes for the DMZ. Also gives out free local maps with thrifty traveller: colourful dorms and private suggested Dong Hoi self-guided walking rooms, loads of local information on where tours. to kick on to next, and the promise of a cold beer and company downstairs at the at- Phong Nha Discovery ADVENTURE TOUR tached Buffalo Pub. The friendly owners can also hook up travellers with various tours. (%052-385 1660; www.phongnhadiscovery.com; 63 Ð Ly Thuong Kiet; day tours US$50-57) Daily tours from Dong Hoi to Paradise Cave and Tu Quy VIETNAMESE $ Hang Toi (Dark Cave); also has multiday (17 Ð Co Tam; meals 20,000–40,000d; h7am- tours incorporating Tu Lan and Hang En. 8.30pm) This area is famous for its banh khoai (shrimp pancake) restaurants, of A2Z TOUR which Tu Quy is one of the best. It has street- side tables with the river in sight. (%052-384 5868; www.atoztourist.com; 29 Ð Ly Thuong Kiet) Contact for tours to Phong Nha C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m NSDloenregtphiH-nCogei n&tEAraratoliunVngide tnam or open-tour bus tickets. Tree Hugger Cafe CAFE $ (www.treehugger-cafe.com; 30 Ð Nguyen Du; 4 Sleeping & Eating snacks 40,000-60,000d; h7am-10pm; Wv) Operated by a Vietnamese-German couple, oNam Long Hotel HOTEL $ Tree Hugger’s appealing combo of coffees, (%091 892 3595; www.namlonghotels.com; 22 Ð juices and Western-style snacks is popular Ho Xuan Huong; dm US$6, r US$20-30; naiW) with both travellers and English-speaking Simply excellent budget hotel run by Nga Dong Hoi locals. There are also interesting and Sy, a welcoming, ever-helpful, English-­ organic and ecofriendly local products for speaking couple. Rooms are bright and airy sale, and the information folders and tour with enormous windows – book 301 for a listings are really worth investigating for on- river-view balcony. The eight-bed dorm is ward travel. superb, with two en-suite bathrooms and its own balcony with great views. Breakfasts are available, and Phong Nha tours and on- 7th Heaven INTERNATIONAL $ ward transport can be organised. (%052-383 3856; www.7thheavenrestaurant.com; 39 Ð Duong Van An; meals 45,000-155,000d; h10.30am-9pm) Cosy and friendly expat-­ Nam Long Plus HOTEL $ owned restaurant and bar that offers (%091 892 3595; www.namlonghotels.com; 28a everything from burgers and steaks to Thai Ð Phan Chu Trinh; dm US$6, d US$22-25, f US$35; curries. naW) Fine eight-storey hotel, with 19 comfortable, spacious rooms and dorms, most with city or river views. A free hot Buffalo Pub PUB breakfast is included, service is good and tours can be arranged. (www.buffalodonghoi.com; 4 Ð Nguyen Du; h7am- 11.30pm; W) The best place in town for meet- ing other travellers over a cold beer is this BUSES FROM DONG HOI DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY Danang 200,000 8 7am, 8.30am & 9.30am Dong Ha 100,000 2 frequent 6am-5pm Hanoi (via Ninh Binh) 250,000 9 daily, 10pm Hoi An 250,000 5 daily, 3.30am Hue 150,000 3½ frequent 6am-5pm Phong Nha 35,000 1½ frequent 6am-5pm For Laos, buses leave for Vientiane daily (400,000d) and for Thakhek from Tuesday to Sunday (300,000d). Both nine-hour services run via the Cha Lo–Na Phao border crossing, where Lao visas are available. For all up-to-date transport information, see Sy at the Nam Long Hotel.

169 chilled spot decked out in lots of natural TRAIN timber. There’s a pool table and occasional The train station (Ga Dong Hoi; Ð Thuan Ly) is live music, or you can hijack the sound sys- located 3km west of the centre. Trains leave for tem with your own portable music device of destinations including Hanoi (350,000d, 9½ to choice. Upstairs, sleep comes relatively easy 11½ hours, five daily), Hue (150,000d, three to at the attached hostel. four hours, six daily) and Danang (170,000d, five hours, six daily). All prices quoted are for soft 88 Information seats on express trains. Staff at both Nam Long hotels can organise mo- SOUTH-CENTRAL torbike and bicycle rentals, provide local maps VIETNAM and book bus and train tickets. Agribank (2 Ð Me Suot; h7.30am-4pm Mon- Fri, 7.30am-12.30pm Sat) ATM and exchange services. 88 Getting There & Away Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) AIR % 053 The airport is 6km north of town. Vietjet (www.vietjetair.com) To/from HCMC. Most of the bases and bunkers have long Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com) vanished, but this 5km strip of land on ei- To/from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. ther side of the Ben Hai River is still known by its American War moniker: the DMZ. From 1954 to 1975 it acted as a buffer be- tween the North and the South. Ironically, C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SDInoefmuotirlhmi-taCateriniostnerda lZ oVni eet(nDaMmZ ) South-Central Vietnam Son Moun t a i n s 0 50 km 0 25 miles QUANG Vinh Moc Tunnels Demilitarised BINH Ben Hai Zone (DMZ) Ben Hai River Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) 1 15 Dong Ha SOUTH QUANG Quang Tri CHINA TRI 9 SEA Lao Bao Huong Dansavanh Hoa Huong Thuan An Dien Phu Thuan Duong No Phu Dien Hue Vinh Tanh Vinh Loc Vinh Hien Huong Thuy Thuon Phu An Phu Bai Airport 1 Cau Hai Suoi Voi THUA Lang Co Beach 14 THIEN-HUÉ Hamburger Hill Phu Son Tra Island Aluoi Bach Ma Loc Hai Van Pass National DANANG Nui Son Tra Park Danang Suoi Mo China Beach Cham Ba Na Islands Hill Station Vinh Dien LAOS Dien An Bang Hien Dai Loc Ban Beach Hoi An My Son Duy Xuyen Tra Thang Binh Tr uong Giang Kieu Chien Dan Que 1 Son QUANG Hiep Duc Tam Ky NAM 14 Tien Phuoc Nui Thanh Ban Phon Phuoc Son Tra My Tra Bong QUANG NGAI

170 Around the DMZ 0 20 km 0 12 miles Dong Hoi (40km) Con Co Vinh Moc Ba Binh Tunnels 1 Vinh Moc Phuong SOUTH Vit Thu lu Lieu Ho Xa Vinh CHINA 15 Ben Hai Quang Cua Tung SEA QUANG Beach BINH Truong Son Demilitarised National Doc Mieu Zone (DMZ) Base Cemetery Ben Hai River Vu Con Con Gio Linh Cua Viet HLuaoHpnHiglilll888811SNouotrhTKtChrhuoeComnaSgmbaanSLthoonDZRMeoiovmnueRenirltoi(atTDciankhMrspeisiZele)d Thien Beach Ha Firebase Quang Tri Dong 9 Cam Lo Gia Dang Camp Beach Carroll River 1 Cua Valley Hai Lang Dakrong Town ong RiverSavannakhetBase Tri Dien C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m DS ioegmuhtitlhsi-tCaerni sterda lZ oVni eet(nDaMmZ ) Ba Long Quang Mon 14 QUANG (Laos; 230km) Dakrong Lao Bao Huong Hoa Bridge TRI Ban Dansavanh 9 (Khe Sanh Town) Dakr Huong Dong Vay Special Dien Roc Lang Co THUA Mountain Forces Camp THIEN-HUÉ Hamburger Hill LAOS (38km); Aluoi (43km) Hue (23km) the DMZ became one of the most militarised in their original form (except for electric areas in the world, forming what Time mag- lights, a recent addition). azine called ‘a running sore’. An English-speaking guide will accompa- The area just south of the DMZ was the ny you around the complex, pointing out the scene of some of the bloodiest battles in 12 entrances until you emerge at a glorious America’s first TV war, turning Quang Tri, beach, facing the South China Sea. The mu- The Rockpile, Khe Sanh, Lang Vay and seum has photos and relics of tunnel life, in- Hamburger Hill into household names. cluding a map of the tunnel network. Fast forward several decades and there’s The turn-off to Vinh Moc from Hwy 1 not much left to see. Most sites have been is 6.5km north of the Ben Hai River in the cleared, the land reforested or planted with village of Ho Xa. Follow this road east for rubber and coffee. Only Ben Hai, Vinh Moc 13km. and Khe Sanh have small museums. Unless you’re an American veteran or military buff, Khe Sanh Combat Base HISTORIC SITE you might find it a little hard to appreciate the place – which is all the more reason to (museum 20,000d; hmuseum 7am-5pm) The hire a knowledgeable guide. site of the most famous siege of the Amer- ican War, the USA’s Khe Sanh Combat Base was never overrun, but saw the bloodiest 1 Sights battle of the war. About 500 Americans, 10,000 North Vietnamese troops and un- Vinh Moc Tunnels HISTORIC SITE counted civilian bystanders died around this (admission 20,000d; h7am-4.30pm) A highly remote highland base. It’s eerily peaceful to- impressive complex of tunnels, Vinh Moc is the remains of a coastal North Vietnamese day, but in 1968 the hillsides trembled with the impact of 1000kg bombs, white phos- village that literally went underground in phorus shells, napalm, mortars and endless response to unremitting American bomb- ing. More than 90 families disappeared into artillery rounds, as desperate American forc- es sought to repel the NVA. three levels of tunnels running for almost The 75-day siege of Khe Sanh began on 2km, and continued to live and work while bombs rained down around them. Most of 21 January 1968 with a small-scale assault on the base’s perimeter. As the marines and the tunnels are open to visitors, and are kept

171 South Vietnamese rangers braced for a full­ white tombstone headed by the inscription scale ground attack, Khe Sanh became the liet si (martyr). Many graves lie empty, sim- focus of global media attention. It was the ply bearing names, representing a fraction cover story for both Newsweek and Life mag- of Vietnam’s 300,000 soldiers missing in azines, and made the front pages of count- action. It’s 27km northwest of Dong Ha; the less newspapers around the world. During turn-off from Hwy 1 is close to Doc Mieu. the next two months the base was subjected to continuous ground attacks and artillery Ben Hai River RIVER fire, and US aircraft dropped 100,000 tonnes of explosives in its vicinity. But the expected (museum 20,000d; hmuseum 7am-4.30pm) attempt to overrun the base never came. Once the border between North and South Vietnam, Ben Hai River’s southern bank On 7 April 1968, after heavy fighting, US now has a grandiose reunification monu- troops reopened Hwy 9 and linked up with ment, its stylised palm leaves oddly resem- the marines, ending the siege. bling missiles. Cua Tung Beach’s fine golden sands are just east of here. Ben Hai’s north- It now seems clear that the siege was an ern bank is dominated by a reconstructed enormous diversion to draw US attention flag tower and small museum full of war away from the South Vietnamese population mementoes. Ben Hai is 22km north of Dong centres in preparation for the Tet Offensive, Ha on Hwy 1. C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m DS ioegmuhtitlhsi-tCaerni sterda lZ oVni eet(nDaMmZ ) which began a week after the siege started. Hamburger Hill HISTORIC SITE Today the site is occupied by a small museum, which contains some fascinating F Hamburger Hill (Ap Bia) was the site old photographs, plus a few reconstructed of a tumultuous battle in May 1969 between bunkers and American aircraft. Most of the US forces and the NVA over a 900m-high area is now planted with coffee, and vendors mountain – resulting in over 600 North offer high-grade local arabica beans for sale Vietnamese and 72 American deaths. Today at the entrance. you need a special permit (US$25 and only obtained in the town of Aluoi) and a guide Khe Sanh is 3km north of the small town to see the remaining trenches and bunkers. of Huong Hoa. Hamburger Hill is 8km northwest of Aluoi, Truong Son National Cemetery CEMETERY about 6km off Hwy 14, and less than 2km An evocative memorial to the legions of from Laos. North Vietnamese soldiers who died along There’s a rudimentary visitor centre (with the Ho Chi Minh Trail, this cemetery is a a map and information in English) at the sobering sight. More than 10,000 graves base of the hill, from where a 6km trail leads dot these hillsides, each marked by a simple WATCH YOUR STEP Millions of tonnes of ordnance were dropped on Vietnam during the American War – it’s estimated that about a third did not explode. Death and injury still happen most days. At many places there’s still a chance of encountering live mortar rounds, artillery projectiles and mines. Watch where you step and don’t leave the marked paths. Never touch any leftover ordnance. It’s not just the DMZ that’s affected. It is estimated that as much as 20% of Viet- nam remains uncleared, with more than 3.5 million mines and 350,000 to 800,000 tonnes of unexploded ordnance (UXO). In the one-year period between 2012 and 2013, the NGO Mines Advisory Group estimated it cleared 185,639 sq metres of ­battle-affected areas, and removed and destroyed 16,035 UXO items and 2188 cluster bombs. Between 1975 and 2007, UXO resulted in 105,000 injuries and over 45,000 deaths. Every year hundreds die and are injured – a disproportionate number of them children or people from the ethnic minority groups. The People’s Army is responsible for most ongoing mine clearance. It’s joined by foreign NGOs such as the Mines Advisory Group (www.maginternational.org) and Clear Path International (www.cpi.org), whose efforts are well worth supporting. Dong Ha has the excellent Mine Action Visitor Centre (p173). Do drop by if you’re in the area.

C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m DSGoe tunttgihnH-gCaeTnhterrael&VAi ertonuanmd172 GONE UNDERGROUND In 1966 the USA began a massive aerial and artillery bombardment of North Vietnam. Just north of the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), the villagers of Vinh Moc found themselves living in one of the most heavily bombed and shelled strips of land on the planet. Small family shelters could not withstand this onslaught and villagers either fled or began tun- nelling by hand and with simple tools into the red-clay earth. The Viet Cong (VC) found it useful to have a base here and encouraged the villagers to stay. After 18 months of tunnelling, an enormous complex was established, creating new homes on three levels from 12m to 23m below ground, plus meeting rooms and even a maternity unit (17 babies were born underground). Whole families lived here, their longest sojourn lasting 10 days and 10 nights. Later, the civilians and VC were joined by North Vietnamese soldiers, whose mission was to keep communication and supply lines to nearby Con Co Island open. Other villages north of the DMZ also built tunnel systems, but none was as elaborate as Vinh Moc (p170). The poorly constructed tunnels of Vinh Quang village (at the mouth of the Ben Hai River) collapsed after repeated bombing, killing everyone inside. US warships stationed off the coast consistently bombarded the Vinh Moc tunnels (craters are still visible), and occasionally the tunnel mouths that faced the sea were struck by naval gunfire. The only ordnance that posed a real threat was the ‘drilling bomb’. It scored a direct hit once but failed to explode, and no one was injured; the inhab- itants adapted the bomb hole for use as an air shaft. up the mountain. Bring water and be sure rebuilt in 2001 and bears a marker hailing to stick to the main trail. Security is tight its importance as a conduit for the Ho Chi around here and you’re sure to get your per- Minh Trail. mits inspected by border guards. 88 Getting There & Around Con Thien Firebase HISTORIC SITE Virtually everyone explores the DMZ on a tour. Only one bunker remains of the US Marine Standard tours are cheap (around US$15 for Corps base that used to cover the three small a group day trip) and can be arranged in Hue hills here. In September 1967 Con Thien or Dong Ha. Most take in the Rockpile, Khe was besieged by the NVA, provoking a US Sanh, Vinh Moc and Doc Mieu and leave Hue at response of 4000 bombing sorties. Today 7am, returning by about 5pm. From Hue, much the region (though cleared of mines) is still more time is spent driving around 300km than studded with unexploded ordnance – stick sightseeing. to the paths. Con Thien Firebase is 15km west of Hwy 1 and 8km south of Truong Son A superior experience is to see the DMZ in- National Cemetery. dependently. Reckon on US$120 for a car and expert guide. Leaving from Dong Ha rather than Camp Carroll HISTORIC SITE Hue means less time on the road. Camp Carroll’s colossal cannons used to Dong Ha shell targets as far away as Khe Sanh. All that remains now is a Vietnamese memorial. %053 / POP 88,800 The turn-off to Camp Carroll is 10km west of Cam Lo; it’s 3km from Hwy 9. Dong Ha is an important transport hub that sits at the intersection of Hwys 1 and Rockpile HISTORIC SITE 9. Its dusty, traffic-plagued main drag looks pretty dismal – this is because the town was Visible from Hwy 9, this 230m-high karst completely flattened during the American outcrop once had a US Marine Corps look- War. However, the town does have its at- out on top and a base for American long- tractive aspects, with a string of riverside range artillery nearby. The Rockpile is 29km seafood restaurants. Dong Ha makes a west of Dong Ha on Hwy 9. useful base for exploring the DMZ and is the gateway town to the Lao Bao border Dakrong Bridge BRIDGE crossing. Crossing the Dakrong River 13km east of the Khe Sanh bus station, this bridge was

1 Sights 173 Mine Action Visitor Centre MUSEUM (two people) for a day’s touring around the main war sites in a car. (%093 521 1281; Ð Ly Thuong Kiet; h8am-5pm Sepon Travel MILITARY, TRANSPORT Mon-Fri, by appointment Sat & Sun) F The Quang Tri province was the most heavily (%385 5289; www.sepontour.com; 189 Ð Le Duan) Tours of the DMZ by car and with English-­ bombed part of Vietnam and it remains the speaking drivers. most contaminated with ordnance. This museum – in English and Vietnamese – 4 Sleeping provides an excellent historical overview, with photographs of the 1972 destruction Violet Hotel HOTEL $ (%053-358 2959; Ð Ba Trieu; s 200,000d, d & tw of Quang Tri Citadel and people attempting 250,000-330,000d; aW) Represents out- to deactivate mines with bamboo sticks. A new display details the tragic legacy of the standing value, with inviting modern rooms all with minibar, TV, fan and air-con; some defoliant Agent Orange. Call an hour ahead also have rice-paddy views and a balcony. In and Phu, the excellent English-s­peaking manager, will show you around the a quiet location 1km from the centre. museum. Huu Nghi Hotel HOTEL $ C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SDiogunhtgthsH- Cae nt r a l V i e tnam Information panels detail the grim reality (%053-385 2361; www.huunghihotel.com.vn; 68 Ð for locals: cluster bombs cause 46% of in- Tran Hung Dao; r from 450,000d; aW) Spacious, cidents, of which 80% are fatal. Over 8500 inviting rooms all with smart furnishings people have died in the province since the including wardrobe, reading light, bed with war ended. Minority people are particularly comfortable mattress and flat-screen TV – vulnerable as they seek scrap metal to sell. some also have commanding river views. Films (from 11 minutes to over an hour) are Breakfast is included. also available to view. DMZ Hotel HOTEL $ (%053-356 0757; 50 Ly Thuong Kiet; r 200,000d; Bao Tang Quang Tri MUSEUM (8 Ð Nguyen Hue; h7.30-11am & 1.30-5pm Tue,Thu, aiW) Well-priced rooms with cable TV Sat & Sun) F A modest museum that doc- uments the history of the Quang Tri prov- and minibar. ince, with a focus on its ethnic minorities. Saigon Quang Binh HOTEL $$ (%053-382 2276; www.sgquangbinhtourist.com. T Tours vn; 20 Quach Xuan Ky; r 1,600,000-1,900,000d; aWs) The fanciest place in town has a Dong Ha has several excellent DMZ guides. great riverside location, smart rooms and Annam Tour MILITARY good online specials. The rooftop bar-cafe or the new pool area are top spots for a beer or (%090 514 0600; www.annamtour.com; 207B Ð a coffee even if you’re not staying here. Nguyen Du) Outstanding tailor-made tours, guided by military historian Mr Vu (who speaks excellent English). Using iPads to 5 Eating & Drinking show photographs and maps, the sights Dong Ha is famous for seafood. Head to the and battlegrounds come to life. Trips cost strip of riverside restaurants on Ð Hoang around US$120 per day, and can be set up Dieu for wonderful cua rang me (crab in from Hue too. tamarind sauce), vem nuong (grilled clams) and steamed or roasted squid. There’s an- Tam’s Tours MILITARY, FOOD other group of places opposite the Violet Hotel for Vietnamese meat and seafood. Try (%090 542 5912; http://tamscafe.jimdo.com; the amazing roast suckling pig. Tam’s Cafe,211 Ð BaTrieu) Excellent backpacker-­ priced tours taking in the DMZ sights using English-speaking war veterans. Tours cost around US$30 to US$40 (per person per Tam’s Cafe CAFE $ (http://tamscafe.jimdo.com; 211 Ð Ba Trieu; meals day) by motorbike, or in a car it’s around US$2-3; h7am-6pm; W) Vietnamese food US$65 to US$80. Tam also offers an excel- and pizza, smoothies and juices. It’s run by lent evening street-food tour (US$20). the ever-helpful Tam, a switched-on, fluent English speaker who works tirelessly to help DMZ Tours MILITARY, ADVENTURE travellers, offering inexpensive tours and in- (%0914 017 835; www.dmztours.net; 113 Le Loi St) dependent travel advice. The cafe employs Quality DMZ tours. Prices start at US$118 and supports deaf people. At the time of

C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SQInoufuaontrhgm-aTCtre inotnr a l V i e tnam174 GETTING TO LAOS: DONG HA TO SAVANNAKHET Getting to the border The Lao Bao/Dansavanh border crossing, on the Sepon River (Song Xe Pon), is one of the most popular and least problematic border crossings between Laos and Vietnam. Buses to Savannakhet in Laos run from Hue via Dong Ha and Lao Bao. From Hue, there’s a 7am air-con bus (350,000d, 9½ hours), on odd days only, that stops in Dong Ha at the Sepon Travel office around 8.30am to pick up more passengers. It’s also easy to cross the border on your own; Dong Ha is the gateway. Bus- es leave the town to Lao Bao (55,000d, two hours) roughly every 15 minutes. From here xe om charge 15,000d to the border. You can check schedules and book tickets at Tam’s Cafe. Tam’s also book tickets to Vientiane (14 hours), Thakhek (10 hours) and Pakse (10 hours). It’s not possible to cross on motorbikes from Vietnam at the Lao Bao border. At the border The border posts (open 7am to 6pm) are a few hundred metres apart. Lao visas are available on arrival, but Vietnamese visas need to be arranged in advance. There are several serviceable hotels on the Vietnamese side. Try not to change currency in Lao Bao: money-changers offer terrible rates. Moving on Songthaew head regularly to Sepon, from where you can get a bus or anoth- er songthaew to Savannakhet. writing Tam was looking to add a hostel to TRAIN his setup in early 2017. Check the website for Dong Ha’s train station (Ga Dong Ha; 2 Ð Le the latest. Thanh Ton), 2km south of the Hwy 1 bridge, has trains to destinations including Hanoi (sleeper Once his hostel’s up and running, he’ll from 65,000d, 11 to 14 hours, five daily), Dong pick you up for free if you advise him of your Hoi (from 65,000d, 1½ to 2½ hours, six daily) arrival one day prior. and Hue (from 50,000d, 1½ to 2½ hours, six daily). 88 Information Quang Tri For impartial travel and tourist information and a useful city map, head to Tam’s Cafe. % 053 / POP 28,600 88 Getting There & Away Quang Tri once boasted an important cita- del, but little of its old glory remains. In the BUS Easter Offensive of 1972, North Vietnamese Dong Ha bus station (Ben Xe Khach Dong Ha; forces laid siege to and then captured the % 053-385 1488; 68 Ð Le Duan) is near the town. This provoked carpet bombing and intersection of Hwys 1 and 9. Buses to Dong artillery shelling by the USA and South Vi- Hoi (58,000d, two hours), Hue (46,000d, 1½ etnamese forces, which all but destroyed hours), Danang (75,000d, 3½ hours), Khe Sanh Quang Tri. (30,000d, 1½ hours) and Lao Bao (55,000d, two hours) depart regularly. Buses are adver- Remnants of the ancient moat, ramparts tised to Savannakhet in Laos, but the station and gates of the citadel remain. It’s off Ð won’t book tickets for foreigners. Mekong Tran Hung Dao, 1.6km north of Hwy 1. Travel (68 Ð Le Duan; h 9am-6pm) and Tam’s Cafe (p173) will. Outside Quang Tri, along Hwy 1 towards Hue, is the skeleton of Long Hung Church. For Phong Nha, there are also three daily It bears countless bullet holes and mortar minibus connections (120,000d) to Son Trach damage from the 1972 bombardment. village at noon, 1pm and 5pm. At 6.30pm, the Hung Thanh company runs a sleeper bus service The bus station (Ð Tran Hung Dao) is about (160,000d) to Easy Tiger hostel, located in Son 1km from Hwy 1, but buses can also be Trach. flagged down on the highway. Check all transport schedules at Tam’s Cafe. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Hue A one-way car trip to the Lao Bao border will set you back US$60. Motorbikes can be hired from % 054 / POP 361,000 US$6 per day. Pronounced ‘Hway’, this deeply evocative capital of the Nguyen emperors still reso- nates with the glories of imperial Vietnam,

175 even though many of its finest buildings 1 Inside the Citadel C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHiouguehtths- C e nt r a l V i e tnam were destroyed during the American War. Built between 1804 and 1833, the Citadel Hue owes its charm partly to its location (Kinh Thanh) is still the heart of Hue. Heav- on the Perfume River – picturesque on a ily fortified, it consists of 2m-thick, 10km- clear day, atmospheric even in less flattering long walls, a moat (30m across and 4m weather. Today the city blends new and old deep) and 10 gateways. as sleek modern hotels tower over crum- bling century-old Citadel walls. The Citadel has distinct sections. The Im- perial Enclosure and Forbidden Purple City Journalist Gavin Young’s 1997 memoir, A formed the epicentre of Vietnamese royal Wavering Grace, is a moving account of his life. On the southwestern side were temple 30-year relationship with a family from Hue, compounds. There were residences in the and is a fine literary companion to the city. northwest, gardens in the northeast and in the north, the Mang Ca Fortress (still a mil- A few touts are a minor hassle, but Hue itary base). remains a tranquil, conservative city, and only a few bars open late. Note that if you’re planning on also vis- iting the Royal Tombs, combination tickets History including the Citadel and the tombs are available. In 1802, Emperor Gia Long founded the Nguyen dynasty, moved the capital from oImperial Enclosure HISTORIC SITE Hanoi to Hue in an effort to unite northern and southern Vietnam, and commenced the (adult/child 150,000/30,000d; h7am-5.30pm) building of the Citadel. The city prospered, The Imperial Enclosure is a citadel-within-­ but its rulers struggled to counter the grow- a-citadel, housing the emperor’s residence, ing influence of France. temples and palaces and the main build- ings of state within 6m-high, 2.5km-long In 1885, French forces responded to a walls. What’s left is only a fraction of the Vietnamese attack by storming the Citadel, original – the enclosure was badly bombed burning the imperial library and removing during the French and American wars, and every object of value. The emperors con- only 20 of its 148 buildings survived. This tinued to reside in Hue, but were excluded is a fascinating site easily worth half a day, from events of national importance. but poor signage can make navigation a bit difficult. Restoration and reconstruction is In 1968, the attention again shifted to ongoing. Hue during the Tet Offensive. While the Expect a lot of broken masonry, rubble, Americans concentrated on holding Khe cracked tiling and weeds as you work your Sanh, North Vietnamese and Viet Cong (VC) way around. Nevertheless it’s enjoyable as a forces seized Hue, an audacious assault that leisurely stroll and some of the less-visited commanded headlines across the globe. areas are highly atmospheric. There are little cafes and souvenir stands dotted around. During the 3½ weeks that the North con- It’s best to approach the sights starting trolled the Citadel, more than 2500 people from Ngo Mon Gate and moving anticlock- (ARVN soldiers, wealthy merchants, govern- wise around the enclosure. ment workers, monks, priests and intellec- tuals) were killed. The North called them ¨¨Ngo Mon Gate ‘lackeys who owed blood debts’. The USA The principal entrance to the Imperial En- and South Vietnamese responded by level- closure is Ngo Mon Gate, which faces the ling whole neighbourhoods, battering the Flag Tower. The central passageway with its Citadel and even using napalm on the im- yellow doors was reserved for the use of the perial palace. Approximately 10,000 people emperor, as was the bridge across the lotus died in Hue, including thousands of VC pond. Others had to use the gates to either troops, 400 South Vietnamese soldiers and side and the paths around the pond. On top 150 US Marines – but most of those killed of the gate is Ngu Phung (Belvedere of the were civilians. Five Phoenixes); on its upper level is a huge drum and bell. 1 Sights The emperor appeared here on important Most of Hue’s principal sights lie within the occasions, most notably for the promulga- moats of its Citadel and Imperial Enclosure. tion of the lunar calendar. On 30 August Other museums and pagodas are dotted around the city. The royal tombs are south of Hue.

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178 C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHiouguehtths- C e nt r a l V i e tnam Hue 34 Star City Hotel ....................................... H3 35 Stay Hotel ...............................................G3 æ Top Sights ú Eating 1 Imperial Enclosure................................. B3 36 Com Hen .................................................G2 2 To Mieu Temple Complex ..................... B4 37 Gecko Pub...............................................G3 38 Hang Me Me............................................G3 æ Sights 39 Hong Mai .................................................C2 3 Co Ha Gardens....................................... B3 40 Les Jardins de la Carambole .................B5 4 Dien Tho Residence............................... A4 41 Lien Hoa ..................................................H5 5 Dieu De National Pagoda ....................... E1 42 Mandarin Café ........................................ F5 6 Emperor's Reading Room..................... B3 43 Quan Bun Bo Hue................................... F6 7 Forbidden Purple City ........................... B3 44 Quan Thai Phu ........................................C7 8 General Museum Complex ................... C3 45 Ta.ke........................................................ F5 9 Halls of the Mandarins .......................... B4 û Drinking & Nightlife 10 Ho Chi Minh Museum ............................ C7 46 Bar Why Not? ........................................ G4 11 National School ..................................... C7 47 Brown Eyes ............................................ H4 12 Ngan Gate .............................................. C4 48 Café on Thu Wheels ...............................G5 13 Ngo Mon Gate ........................................ B4 49 Cafe Tre Nga...........................................H2 14 Nine Holy Cannons ................................ B5 50 DMZ Bar ..................................................G3 15 Nine Holy Cannons ................................ C4 16 Quang Duc Gate..................................... B5 Hue Backpackers ......................... (see 28) 17 Royal Fine Arts Museum ....................... H7 Sirius ............................................. (see 28) 18 Royal Theatre......................................... B3 Wounded Heart Tea Room.......... (see 53) 19 Thai Hoa Palace ..................................... B4 þ Shopping 51 Blue de Hue ............................................G3 20 Thai To Mieu Temple Complex............. C3 52 Dong Ba Market...................................... E2 21 Truong San Residence .......................... A3 53 Spiral Foundation Healing the 22 University of Arts ................................... C3 Wounded Heart Center.......................G3 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 54 Trang Tien Plaza..................................... E3 Cafe on Thu Wheels .....................(see 48) ï Information 55 DMZ Travel .............................................G3 23 Stop & Go Café .......................................F4 56 Mandarin Café ........................................ F5 57 Sinh Tourist ........................................... H4 ÿ Sleeping ï Transport 24 Alba Spa Hotel ....................................... G5 58 Jetstar ..................................................... F5 25 Gold Hotel .............................................. H3 59 Vietnam Airlines ..................................... F6 26 Home Hotel ............................................ G3 27 Hotel Saigon Morin .................................F4 28 Hue Backpackers .................................. G3 29 Hue Thuong............................................ G3 30 Huenino .................................................. G3 31 Jade Hotel .............................................. H4 32 La Residence.......................................... C7 33 Moonlight Hotel Hue ............................. G3 1945, the Nguyen dynasty ended here when ¨¨Halls of the Mandarins Emperor Bao Dai abdicated to a delegation Located immediately behind Thai Hoa Pal- sent by Ho Chi Minh. ace, on either side of a courtyard, these halls were used by mandarins as offices and to ¨¨Thai Hoa Palace prepare for court ceremonies. The hall on the This palace (Palace of Supreme Harmo- right showcases fascinating old photographs ny; 1803) is a spacious hall with an ornate (including boy-king Vua Duya Tan’s corona- timber roof supported by 80 carved and tion), gilded Buddha statues and assorted lacquered columns. It was used for the em- imperial curios. Behind the courtyard are the peror’s official receptions and important ruins of the Can Chanh Palace, where two ceremonies. On state occasions the emperor wonderful long galleries, painted in gleaming sat on his elevated throne, facing visitors en- scarlet lacquer have been reconstructed. tering via the Ngo Mon Gate. No photos are permitted, but be sure to see the impressive ¨¨Emperor’s Reading Room audio-visual display, which gives an excel- (Thai Binh Lau) The exquisite (though crum- lent overview of the entire Citadel, its archi- bling) little two-storey Emperor’s Reading tecture and the historical context. Room was the only part of the Forbidden Pur- ple City to escape damage during the French

179 reoccupation of Hue in 1947. It’s currently embroidered royal garments. Just outside a C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHiouguehtths- C e nt r a l V i e tnam being renovated and not open to v­isitors, pleasure pavilion above a lily pond has been but it’s worth checking out the Gaudí- transformed into a cafe worthy of a refresh- esque roof mosaics. ment stop. ¨¨Royal Theatre ¨¨oTo Mieu Temple Complex (Duyen Thi Duong; %054-351 4989; www.nhanhac. com.vn; performances 50,000-100,000d; hperfor- Taking up the southwest corner of the Impe- mances 9am, 10am, 2.30pm & 3.30pm) The Roy- rial Enclosure, this highly impressive walled al Theatre, begun in 1826 and later home complex has been beautifully restored. The to the National Conservatory of Music, has imposing three-tiered Hien Lam Pavilion been rebuilt on its former foundations. Cul- sits on the south side of the complex, dating tural performances here last 45 minutes. from 1824. On the other side of a courtyard is the solemn To Mieu Temple, housing Southeast of here almost nothing remains shrines to each of the emperors, topped by of the Thai To Mieu temple complex (it’s their photos. Between these two temples are now a plant nursery) and former University Nine Dynastic Urns (dinh), cast between of Arts. 1835 and 1836, each dedicated to one Nguyen sovereign. ¨¨Co Ha Gardens Occupying the northeast corner of the Im- About 2m in height and weighing 1900kg perial Enclosure, these delightful gardens to 2600kg each, the urns symbolise the were developed by the first four emperors power and stability of the Nguyen throne. of the Nguyen dynasty but fell into disre- The central urn, also the largest and most pair. They’ve been beautifully recreated in ornate, is dedicated to dynasty founder Gia the last few years, and are dotted with lit- Long. Also in the courtyard are two drag- tle gazebo-style pavilions and ponds. This is ons, trapped in what look like red phone one of the most peaceful spots in the entire boxes. Citadel, and was undergoing further careful renovation when we last visited. On the north side of the complex, a gate leads into a small walled enclosure that ¨¨Forbidden Purple City houses the Hung To Mieu Temple, a recon- (Tu Cam Thanh) In the very centre of the Impe- struction of the 1804 original, built to hon- rial Enclosure, there’s almost nothing left of our Gia Long’s parents. the once-magnificent Forbidden Purple City. ¨¨Nine Holy Cannons This was a citadel-within-a-citadel-within-a- Located just inside the Citadel ramparts, citadel and was reserved solely for the per- near the gates to either side of the Flag sonal use of the emperor – the only servants Tower, are the Nine Holy Cannons (1804), allowed into this compound were eunuchs symbolic protectors of the palace and king- who would pose no threat to the royal concu- dom. Commissioned by Emperor Gia Long, bines. The Forbidden Purple City was almost they were never intended to be fired. The entirely destroyed in the wars, and its crum- four cannons near Ngan Gate represent bling remains are now overgrown with weeds. the four seasons, while the five cannons next to Quang Duc Gate represent the ¨¨Truong San Residence five elements: metal, wood, water, fire and In 1844, Emperor Thieu Tri described this as earth. one of Hue’s most beautiful spots, but it was devastated by war. Check out the entrance Each brass cannon is 5m long and weighs gate with prancing dragons and phoenixes, about 10 tonnes. and the oval moat. The exterior has been restored, while the interior remains empty, 1 Outside the Citadel except for its elaborate columns and tiles. Dieu De National Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE ¨¨Dien Tho Residence (Quoc Tu Dieu De; 102 Ð Bach Dang) F Over- The stunning, partially ruined Dien Tho looking Dong Ba Canal, this pagoda was Residence (1804) once comprised the apart- built under Emperor Thieu Tri’s rule (1841– ments and audience hall of the Queen Moth- 47) and is famous for its four low towers, ers of the Nguyen dynasty. The audience hall one either side of the gate, and two flanking houses an exhibition of photos illustrat- the sanctuary. The pavilions on either side ing its former use, and there is a display of of the main sanctuary entrance contain the 18 La Ha, whose rank is just below that

Hue’s Imperial ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES © Enclosure Dien Tho Residence R EXPLORING THE SITE This pretty corner of the complex, with its low AUSTIN BUSH © structures and pond, was the residence of An incongruous combination of meticulously many Queen Mothers. The earliest structures restored palaces and pagodas, ruins and here date from 1804. rubble, the Imperial Enclosure is approached from the south through the outer walls of Tu Vo Phuong the Citadel. It’s best to tackle the site as a Pavilion walking tour, winding your way around the structures in an anticlockwise direction. Truong San Residence You'll pass directly through the monumental AUSTIN BUSH © Ngo Mon Gateway 1� where the ticket 4 office is located. This dramatic approach quickens the pulse and adds to the sense To Mieu Temple of occasion as you enter this citadel-within- Complex a-citadel. Directly ahead is the Thai Hoa Palace 2 where the emperor would greet Nine Dynastic Urns offical visitors from his elevated throne. These colossal bronze urns were commissioned by Continuing north you’ll step across a Emperor Minh Mang and cast between 1835 and 1836. MsBPmhuairanlatlddlUucabroorinisungorttsthye3arerdi,gwntoohfetRhraeemmtawIa,itnnhedHiamarplinlosssionogfntcheehad They're embellished with decorative elements including thbòehitr(oorfdfiincaetsionahnadll)parseitpsatarnedds ftoodracyeisrtehme onial landscapes, rivers, owers and animals. orcescualtsoiof rnesno. vations dating back to the reign of Rama III (r 1824–51). ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES © To the northeast is the Royal Theatre, where traditional dance performances are held several times daily. Next you'll be able to get a glimpse of the Emperor’s Reading Room built by Thieu Tri and used as a place of retreat. Just east of here are the lovely Co Ha Gardens. Wander their pathways, dotted with hundreds of bonsai trees and potted plants, which have been recently restored. Guarding the far north of the complex is the Tu Vo Phuong Pavilion, from where you can follow a moat to the Truong San residence and then loop back south via the Dien Tho Residence 4 and finally view the beautifully restored temple compound of To Mieu, perhaps the most rewarding part of the entire enclosure to visit, including its fabulous Nine Dynastic Urns 5. TOP TIPS Allow half a day to explore the Citadel. Drink vendors are dotted around the site, but the best places to take a break are the delightful Co Ha Gardens, the Tu Vo Phuong Pavilion and the Dien Tho Residence (the latter two also serve food).

Tu Vo Phuong Pavilion Halls of the MICHAEL RUNKEL / GETTY IMAGES © The two-storey Tu Vo Phuong Pavilion, Mandarins elevated above a moat, was once a defense Unesco-sponsored bastion for the northern part of the Imperial conservation work Enclosure. It combines both European and is ongoing in the Vietnamese architectural styles (note the eastern hall here elaborate roof dragons). to preserve the elaborate ceiling Emperor’s and wall murals. Reading Room Co Ha Gardens Royal Theatre 3 2 1 �5 Ngo Mon Gateway A huge, grandiose structure that guards the main approach to the Imperial Enclosure, this gateway has a fortied lower level and a more architecturally elaborate upper part. It dates from 1833. Thai Hoa Palace Be sure to check out this palace’s incredible ironwood columns, painted in 12 coats of brilliant scarlet and gold lacquer. The structure was saved from col- lapse by restoration work in the 1990s. SAMI SARKIS / GETTY IMAGES © ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES ©

182 National School NOTABLE BUILDING of Bodhisattva, and the eight Kim Cang, ­protectors of Buddha. In the back row of (Truong Quoc Hoc; 10 Ð Le Loi; h11.30am-1pm & the main dais is Thich Ca Buddha, flanked from 5pm) One of the most famous secondary by two assistants. schools in Vietnam, the National School was Dieu De was a stronghold of Buddhist founded in 1896. Its former pupils include and student opposition to the South Viet- General Vo Nguyen Giap and Ho Chi Minh namese government and the American War, (who attended for a year in 1908). You can and many arrests were made here when po- visit the school during lunch break and after lice stormed the building in 1966. classes finish. Royal Fine Arts Museum MUSEUM Ho Chi Minh Museum MUSEUM (150 Ð Nguyen Hue; h6.30am-5.30pm summer, (7 Ð Le Loi; h7-11am & 1.30-4pm Tue-Sun) F 7am-5pm winter) F This recently reno- The father of the modern Vietnamese nation vated museum is located in the baroque-­ spent 10 years in Hue, and you’ll find some influenced An Dinh Palace, commissioned intriguing photographs as well as a collec- by Emperor Khai Dinh in 1918 and full of tion of certificates and medals here. There’s elaborate murals, floral motifs and trompe very little information in English though. l’œil details. Emperor Bao Dai lived here C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHT ouue rths - C e nt r a l V i e tnam with his family after abdicating in 1945. In- Tang Tau Lake LAKE side, you’ll find some outstanding ceramics, paintings, furniture, silverware, porcelain (Ð Dien Tien Hoang) An island on Tang Tau and royal clothing, though information is a Lake, which is northeast of Tinh Tam Lake, little lacking. was once the site of a royal library. It is now occupied by the small Ngoc Huong Pagoda. Bao Quoc Pagoda TBUDDHIST TEMPLE Tours (Ham Long Hill) F Founded in 1670, this Stop & Go Café TOUR hilltop pagoda is on the southern bank of the Perfume River and has a striking triple- (%054-382 7051; www.stopandgo-hue.com; 3 Ð gated entrance reached via a wide staircase. Hung Vuong) Personalised motorbike and car On the right is a centre for training monks, tours. A full-day DMZ car tour guided by which has been functioning since 1940. a Vietnamese vet costs around US$27 per person for four people, representing a good deal. Guided trips to Hoi An stopping at General Museum Complex MUSEUM beaches are also recommended. (Ð 23 Thang 8; admission 15,000d; h7-11am & 1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Formerly a school for princes and the sons of high-ranking man- Cafe on Thu Wheels TOUR darins, this slightly rundown complex has a pagoda devoted to archaeology, a small (%054-383 2241; [email protected]; 10/2 Ð Natural History Museum and a building Nguyen Tri Phuong) Inexpensive cycle hire, and with exhibitions about anticolonial resist- motorbike, minibus and car tours around Hue ance. In the grounds are a variety of military and the DMZ. Can also arrange transfers to Hoi An by motorbike (US$45) or car (US$55). aircraft and vehicles, both Vietnamese and Hue Flavor TOUR American. (%0905 937 006; www.hueflavor.com; per person US$45) Excellent street-food tours exploring PERFUME RIVER BOAT TRIPS Many sights around Hue, including Thien Mu Pagoda and several of the Royal Tombs, can be reached by boat via the Perfume River. Most hotels and travellers’ cafes offer shared day tours from US$5 to US$20 per person. Better ones start with a morning river cruise, stopping at pagodas and temples, then after lunch a minibus travels to the main tombs before returning to Hue. On the cheaper options you’ll often have to hire a motorbike to get from the moorings to the tombs, or walk in tropical heat. At the moorings on the south side of the river you can theorectically negotiate your own route. Rates for chartering a boat start at US$10 for an hour’s cruise, but these boats are slow. A full day is needed for the more impressive, distant tombs. Be clear on your requirements, preferably in writing.

183 the delights of Hue cuisine. Transport is by has an artistic flavour with stylish furniture, cyclo and around 15 different dishes are artwork and smallish rooms with minibar, sampled across four hours. cable TV and good-quality beds. A generous breakfast is included. Ton That Quy TOUR (%093 578 2533; www.vietnammotortrail.com) Stay Hotel HOTEL $ Quy is a friendly and trustworthy motorbike (%054-3823 999; www.stayhotelhue.com; 7 Ð guide who can arrange scenic transfers via Nguyen Cong Tru; dm US$7, d US$14-24; aiW) the Hai Van Pass to Hoi An, local sightseeing Stay Hotel is a new opening in the up- around Hue and the DMZ, and longer trips and-coming accommodation scene along exploring all parts of Vietnam. Ð Nguyen Cong Tru. Rooms are decorated with colourful art, breakast is offered in a Tran Van Thinh TOUR stylish dining area, and some rooms have (%0905 731 537; [email protected]) river views. Knowledgeable local motorbike guide who can arrange local city tours and explora- tions of the royal tombs. Thinh is a long- Jade Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ (%054-393 8849; http://jadehotelhue.com; 17 Ð time resident of Hue and speaks excellent Nguyen Thai Hoc; r US$17-30; naiW) You’ll English. find simply excellent service standards C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m HFSeousuettihva- Clesnt r a l V i e tnam at this fine place; staff are very sweet and Oriental Sky Travel ADVENTURE TOUR welcoming indeed. Rooms enjoy soft comfy (%0985 555 827; www.orientalskytravel.com) mattresses and there’s a nice lobby-lounge Helmed by the experienced and friendly Shi, this tour company can arrange active trips for hanging out. including hiking and a zipline in Bach Ma Star City Hotel HOTEL $ National Park, and also mountain biking, (%054-383 1358; http://starcityhotelhue.com; kayaking and caving around Phong Nha Na- 2/36 Ð Vo Thi Sau; r US$14-18; aiW) Offering tional Park and the DMZ. Ask about accom- really cheap rates, this five-storey hotel has modation at the Chay Lap village homestay a lift, and clean, spacious rooms, all with TV near Phong Nha. and air-con. It’s set off the street so traffic noise isn’t an issue. z Festivals Hue Thuong HOTEL $ Festival of Hue FESTIVAL (%054-388 3793; www.huethuonghotel.com; 11 Ð (www.huefestival.com; hlate Apr-early May) Held Chu Van An; r US$15-25; aiW) A great little in even-numbered years (next in 2018), this biennial arts festival features local and inter- minihotel, where the rooms, though small- ish, have a real sparkle and are very well national artists and performers. presented – all come with purple and white 4 Sleeping linen and attractive furniture. Hue accommodation rates are well below Hue Backpackers HOSTEL $ Hanoi or HCMC. The main tourist enclave (%054-382 6567; www.vietnambackpackerhostels. is between Ð Le Loi and Ð Vo Thi Sau, and com; 10 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; dm US$8-12, r US$18; other good options are along Ð Nguyen aiW) Backpackers’ mecca thanks to its Cong Tru. central location, eager-to-please staff, good info and sociable bar-restaurant. Dorms are oHome Hotel well designed and have air-con and lockers. HOTEL $ (%054-383 0014; www.huehomehotel.com; 8 Ð Nguyen Cong Tru; r US$16-25; aiW) Run by oAlba Spa Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%054-382 8444; www.albaboutiquehotels.com; a really friendly team, the welcoming Home 29 Ð Tran Quang Khai; r US$55-85; aWs) Hotel has a younger, hip vibe, and spacious rooms arrayed across several levels. Ask to This lovely new hotel combines cool and classy rooms with a spa centre downstairs. book a room looking over Ð Nguyen Cong The compact indoor pool is nice for relax- Tru for a compact balcony, French doors and views of the river. No lift. ing after a spa treatment, and the break- fast spread – including local Hue culinary Huenino GUESTHOUSE $ specialities – is one of the city’s best. The ho- (%054-625 2171; www.hueninohotel.com; 14 Ð Nguyen Cong Tru; r US$18-25; naiW) Family-­ tel’s location is in a quiet backstreet, just a short walk from all the action. owned, this warm, welcoming guesthouse

184 oTam Tinh Vien BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ Hotel Saigon Morin HOTEL $$$ (%054-382 3526; www.morinhotel.com.vn; 30 Ð Le (%054-3519 990; www.huehomestay.wevina.vn; Loi; r/ste from US$100/170; naiWs) Built Long Ha village; r US$40; aiWs) Around 6km from Hue in Long Ha village, Tam in 1901, this was the first hotel in central Tinh Vien is called a homestay, but is really Vietnam and once the hub of French colo- nial life in Hue. The building is very classy, a delightful boutique guesthouse. Arrayed with accommodation set around two inner around a small pool and verdant garden, courtyards and a small pool. Rooms are spacious villas with four-poster beds are grand and beautifully presented, with plush imbued with a chic Asian aesthetic. Borrow carpets and period detail. a bike to make the 30-minute journey into Hue – a taxi is 100,000d. 5 Eating Moonlight Hotel Hue HOTEL $$ We have the famed fussy eater Emperor Tu (%054-397 9797; www.moonlighthue.com; 20 Duc to thank for the culinary variety of Hue. Ð Pham Ngu Lao; r US$50-75, ste US$80-135; naiWs) A ‘new generation’ Hue hotel Royal rice cakes, the most common are where the rooms boast a very high spec for banh khoai, are worth seeking out. Other lo- the modest bucks charged, all with polished cal variations are banh beo, banh loc, banh C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHEaoutueitnhg- C e nt r a l V i e tnam wooden floors, marble-clad bathrooms (with it and banh nam. tubs) and lavish furnishings. Pay a bit more for a balcony with a Perfume River view. The Vegetarian food has a long tradition in pool area is small and covered, and there are Hue. Stalls in Dong Ba Market serve it the good rooftop drinks in the Sirius bar. first and 15th days of the lunar month. Hue also has great street food. Follow our recom- Gold Hotel HOTEL $$ mendations or join a street-food tour with Hue Flavor (p182). (%054-381 4815; www.goldhotelhue.com; 28 Ð Hang Me Me VIETNAMESE $ Ba Trieu; r US$42-51, ste US$72-92; aiWs) I­mpressive hotel a short walk or cyclo (pedi­ (16 Ð Vo Thi Sau; snacks from 20,000d) A top spot to try Hue’s dizzying menu of royal rice cab) ride from the river. It has a main res- cakes. Serving portions are pretty big, so taurant area and immaculately presented modern rooms with superb bathrooms (all rustle up a few friends to try the different variations. Our favourite is the banh beo, have tubs). It’s efficiently run and excellent perfect little mouthfuls topped with scal- value, though the pool area is a bit of an afterthought. lions and dried shrimp. La Residence HOTEL $$$ Com Hen VIETNAMESE $ (17 Ð Han Mac Tu; meals from 10,000d; h7am- (%054-383 7475; www.la-residence-hue.com; 5 Ð 11pm) Tuck into bowls of rice (com hen) or Le Loi; r from US$145; naiWs) Once the French governor’s residence, this wonder- noodles (bun hen) combining fresh herbs and tasty local clams from a nearby island ful hotel resonates with art-deco class, with in the middle of the Perfume River. Servings its original features and period detailing. A frangipani-lined path leads down to the are fairly small, so maybe have a bowl of each. 30m pool, from where you can gaze over the Perfume River. Rooms are sumptuously appointed, the restaurants are excellent, and Lien Hoa VEGETARIAN $ (3 Ð Le Quy Don; meals 50,000-75,000d; h6.30am- service is polished and professional. 9.30pm; v) No-nonsense Viet vegetarian res- taurant renowned for filling food at bargain Pilgrimage Village RESORT $$$ prices. Fresh banh beo, noodle dishes, crispy (%054-388 5461; www.pilgrimagevillage.com; 130 Ð Minh Mang; r/bungalows from US$155/230; fried jackfruit and aubergine with ginger all deliver. The menu has very rough English naiWs) Designed around a verdant translations to help you order (staff speak valley that includes a 40m pool, lotus ponds and a spa and yoga space, this is a thorough- little or no English). ly relaxing, luxury eco-retreat. Rooms are all Hong Mai VIETNAMESE $ supremely comfortable, but for the ultimate (110 Ð Dinh Tien Toang; snacks from 20,000d; experience book a bungalow with a private h11am-8pm) After you’ve admired the Cit- plunge pool. There’s a fine restaurant, lovely adel, make your way to this excellent Viet- breakfast room and bar. Located about 3km namese eatery for superior versions of two from the centre of Hue. local street-food classics. The banh khoai

185 (rice crepes filled with pork and shrimp) are majors in Gallic classics, and there’s a light and crammed with bean sprouts, and lengthy wine list and informed service. It’s the nem lui (minced pork grilled on lemon- just the place for a romantic meal – arrive grass sticks) go perfectly with a chilled Huda by cyclo and it’s easy to roll back the years lager. to Indochine times. Quan Thai Phu VIETNAMESE $ 6 Drinking (2 Ð Dien Bien Phu; meals 15,000-30,000d; h9am- 9pm) Our favourite spot for Hue’s famous Cafe Tre Nga CAFE bun thit nuong – grilled pork with vermi- (7 Ð Nguyen Cong Tru) Families, courting cou- ples and card players all hang out at this celli and a forest of fresh herbs. Don’t forget hidden bamboo-shrouded riverside haven a hearty dollop of the special peanut sauce. that’s our favourite place in Hue for a caphe sua da (iced coffee with milk). Walk down Quan Bun Bo Hue VIETNAMESE $ the lane off Ð Nguyen Cong Tru past the art (17 Ð Ly Thuong Kiet; meals 30,000d; h6am-2pm) Excellent spot for a hearty bowl of bun bo galleries to find the cafe. Hue, the city’s signature noodle dish com- bining tender beef, vermicelli and lemon- DMZ Bar BAR grass. Next door at number 19, Ly Thuong (www.dmz.com.vn; 60 Ð Le Loi; h7am-1am; W) C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m HSDoruiuentkhi-nCge nt r a l V i e tnam Ever-popular riverside bar with a free pool Kiet is equally good. Both sell out by early table, cold Huda beer, cocktails (try a water- afternoon. melon mojito) and good craic most nights. Also serves Western and local food till mid- Mandarin Café VIETNAMESE $ night, smoothies and juices. Happy hour is (%054-382 1281; www.mrcumandarin.com; 24 Ð Tran Cao Van; meals from 25,000d; h6am-10pm; 3pm till 8pm. Check out the upside-down Wv) Owner-photographer Mr Cu, whose map of the DMZ – complete with a US chop- inspirational pictures adorn the walls, has per – on the ceiling of the bar. been hosting backpackers for years, and his relaxed restaurant has lots of vegetarian and Wounded Heart Tea Room TEAHOUSE breakfast choices. Also operates as a tour (www.hwhshop.com; 23 Ð Vo Thi Sau; tea 40,000d; h8am-6pm) Attached to a Fairtrade gift agency. shop, this little place specialises in Viet- Gecko Pub CAFE $$ namese tea (including jasmine, ginger and (9 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; meals 30,000-80,000d; oolong), but it will also rustle up a coffee. h8am-midnight) With a laid-back vibe, this Complimentary snacks are served with your is our favourite of the cafes and restaurants drink. along Pham Ngu Lao. Friendly service and Asian chic decor combine with the best Brown Eyes BAR streetside tables in town, and food is a (Ð Chu Van An; h5pm-late; W) The most popu- lar late-night bar in town, with a good blend versatile mix of Western and Vietnamese of locals and traveller-revellers and a party favourites. Look forward to one of central Vietnam’s best mojitos too. vibe. DJs drive the dance floor with R&B, hip hop and house anthems, and staff rally the troops with free shots. Ta.ke JAPANESE $$ (34 Ð Tran Cao Van; meals 60,000-140,000d; h10am-10pm) An authentic Japanese restau- Sirius BAR rant with tasteful furnishings including lan- (www.moonlighthue.com; Moonlight Hotel, 20 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; snacks from 55,000d; h10am- terns and calligraphy, and a winsome menu 10pm) Atop the Moonlight Hotel, Sirius is the with sushi, tempura and yakitori dishes. The interior is a calming haven away from Hue’s best place in town for sunset drinks. Com- bine BBQ snacks – beef, squid, prawns – and increasingly busy streets. a few beers or a cocktail and view the arrival Les Jardins of dusk on the Perfume River. de la Carambole FRENCH, VIETNAMESE $$$ Café on Thu Wheels BAR (%054-354 8815; www.lesjardinsdelacarambole. com; 32 Ð Dang Tran Con; mains from US$5; (10/2 Ð Nguyen Tri Phuong; h6.30am-11pm; W) Graffiti-splattered walls, a sociable vibe, h7am-11pm; W) A memorable dining expe- excellent food and smoothies all combine rience, this classy and refined French res- taurant occupies a gorgeous colonial-style at this welcoming spot owned by a friend- ly family. They also offer good tours, serve building in the Citadel quarter. The menu

186 Dong Ba Market MARKET cheap meals and have books and mags to browse. (Ð Tran Hung Dao; h6.30am-8pm) Just north of Trang Tien Bridge, this is Hue’s largest mar- Hue Backpackers BAR ket, selling anything and everything. (10 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; h6am-11pm; W) There’s always a buzz about this backpackers’ drink- Trang Tien Plaza SHOPPING CENTRE ing den, which packs ’em in with its infused (6 Ð Tran Hung Dao; h8am-10pm) A small shop- vodkas, cocktail list and regular happy ping centre situated between Trang Tien hours. A good bet for the football or big Bridge and Dong Ba Market with a Coop- sporting events. mart supermarket. Bar Why Not? BAR 88 Information (21 Ð Vo Thi Sau) This place has a more relaxed vibe than some other bars in town, a sensa- MEDICAL SERVICES tional list of cocktails and a popular street Hue Central Hospital (Benh Vien Trung Uong terrace. Hue; % 054-382 2325; 16 Ð Le Loi; h 6am- 10pm) Well-regarded local hospital. C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m HS hououe tpphi-nCge nt r a l V i e tnam 7 Shopping MONEY Vietcombank (30 Ð Le Loi; h7.30am-3.30pm Hue produces the finest conical hats in Vi- Mon-Sat) At the Hotel Saigon Morin. etnam. The city’s speciality is ‘poem hats’, Vietin Bank ATM (12 Ð Hung Vuong) Centrally which, when held up to the light, reveal located ATM. shadowy scenes of daily life. It’s also known for its rice paper and silk paintings. POST Post Office (8 Ð Hoang Hoa Tham; h7am- Spiral Foundation Healing HANDICRAFTS 5.30pm Mon-Sat) Main post office. the Wounded Heart Center (%054-383 3694; www.spiralfoundation.org; 23 Ð Vo Thi Sau; h8am-6pm) Generating cash from TRAVEL AGENCIES trash, this store stocks lovely handicrafts – Most travel agencies and tour operators pool such as quirky bags made from plastic, and clients on their budget tours, so when you book a (standard) DMZ tour, you’ll be on a large bus. picture frames made from recycled beer Specialist bespoke trips are available but cost cans – created by artists with disabilities. far more. Profits aid heart surgery for children in A popular way to travel between Hue and Hoi need. An – or vice versa – is by motorbike. Trips often stop for a seafood lunch at Lang Co lagoon, Blue de Hue ANTIQUES and also at the Hai Van pass. Count on around (43 Ð Vo Thi Sau; h7.30am-6.30pm) Well-­ US$45 to US$50 on the back of a bike, or US$25 regarded antiques store selling stonework, to US$30 if you’re comfortable being in charge ceramics, laquerware and wooden carvings. of two wheels. Also see Cafe on Thu Wheels (p182) and Stop & Go Café (p182). TRANSPORT FROM HUE DESTINATION AIR BUS CAR/MOTORBIKE TRAIN Danang - 2½-4hr Dong Hoi 60,000d, 3hr, 3½hr US$3.50-6, Hanoi - frequent 16hr 2½-4hr, 7 daily HCMC 22hr Ninh Binh from 1,000,000d, 85,000d, 4hr, 11hr US$5-11, 3-5½hr, Vinh 1hr, 3 daily frequent 7hr 7 daily from 480,000d, 1¼hr, 4 daily 260,000d, US$24-42, 12- - 13-16hr, 9 daily 15½hr, 6 daily - 490,000d, US$32-55, 19-24hr, 9 daily 19½-23hr, 5 daily 250,000d, US$19-35, 10-13hr, 10½-12hr, 8 daily 5 daily 150,000d, 7½-9hr, US$23-38, frequent to 1pm 6½-10hr, 5 daily

187 DMZ Travel (% 054-224 1904; www.dmz.com. US$5 to US$10. A car with driver costs US$50 to vn; 60 Ð Le Loi) Budget boat trips along the Per- US$55 per day. fume River and DMZ tours. Also tickets to Laos. Mandarin Café (% 054-382 1281; www. Cyclo drivers usually quote extortionate mrcumandarin.com; 24 Ð Tran Cao Van) Mr Cu prices in Hue, and a short ride begins at around offers great information, transport and tours 40,000d. It’s usually cheaper and quicker to get around Hue and beyond. a metered taxi. Sinh Tourist (% 054-384 5022; www.thesinh tourist.vn; 37 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; h 6.30am- For a taxi, try the reliable Mai Linh (% 054- 10pm) Books open-tour buses and buses to 389 8989). Laos. Around Hue C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SAGore otututihnn-dgCHeTnuhteerrael&VAi ewtanyam 88 Getting There & Away South of Hue are the extravagant mauso- AIR leums of the rulers of the Nguyen dynasty Jetstar (%1900 1550; Ð Hung Vuong; (1802–1945), spread out along the banks of h closed Sun) To/from HCMC. the Perfume River between 2km and 16km VietJet (%1900 1886; www.vietjetair.com) To/ south of the city. There are also fine pagodas from HCMC. and other sights. Vietnam Airlines (% 054-382 4709; 23 Ð Nguyen Van Cu; h closed Sun) To/from Hanoi Almost all the royal tombs were planned and HCMC. by the emperors during their lifetimes, and some were used as residences while they BUS were still alive. The main bus station, 4km southeast of the centre, has connections to Danang and south to Most of the mausoleums consist of five HCMC. An Hoa bus station (Hwy 1), northwest essential elements. The first is a stele pa- of the Citadel, serves northern destinations, vilion dedicated to the accomplishments, including Dong Ha (44,000d, two hours, every exploits and virtues of the emperor. Next is 30 minutes). a temple for the worship of the emperor and empress. The third is an enclosed sepulchre, For Phong Nha (around 120,000d, five hours), and fourth an honour courtyard with stone the Hung Thanh open-tour bus leaves 49 Ð Chu elephants, horses, and civil and military Van An at 4.30pm, and the Tan Nha bus leaves mandarins. Finally, there’s a lotus pond sur- from the Why Not? bar on Ð Vo Thi Sau around rounded by frangipani and pine trees. 6.30am. One daily bus (look for ‘Phuc Vu’ in the windscreen) heads for Phong Nha Farmstay and Most people visit on an organised tour Son Trach at 11.15am (150,000d, four hours) from Hue, either by boat or combining boat from Hue’s An Hoa bus station. and bus, but it’s possible to rent a xe om or bicycle and do a DIY tour. Hue is a regular stop on open-tour bus routes. Most drop off and pick up passengers at central Entrance to the main sites is adult/child hotels. Expect some hassle from persistent 100,000/20,000d per site, but discounted hotel touts when you arrive. combination tickets including the Citadel are also available. Mandarin, Sinh and Stop & Go Café can ar- range bookings for buses to Savannakhet, Laos. 1 Sights TRAIN Tomb of Tu Duc TOMB The Hue train station (% 054-382 2175; 2 Ð Phan Chu Trinh) is at the southwestern end of (adult/child 100,000/20,000d) This tomb, con- Ð Le Loi. structed between 1864 and 1867, is the most popular and impressive of the royal mauso- 88 Getting Around leums. Emperor Tu Duc designed it himself to use before and after his death. The enor- Hue’s Phu Bai Airport is 14km south of the mous expense of the tomb and the forced city. Metered taxis cost about 220,000d to the labour used in its construction spawned centre, or use the minibus service for 50,000d. a coup plot that was discovered and sup- Vietnam Airlines runs an airport shuttle. pressed. Tu Duc’s tomb is 5km south of Hue on Van Nien Hill in Duong Xuan Thuong Pedal power is a fun way to tour Hue and the village. Royal Tombs. Hotels rent bicycles for around From the entrance, a path leads to Luu US$3 per day. Traffic around Hue can be busy, Khiem Lake. The tiny island to the right, especially on the bridges crossing the river, so Tinh Khiem, is where Tu Duc used to hunt take care when cycling. Motorbikes are from small game. Across the water to the left is

188 Around Hue e# 0 2 km empress; Tu Duc was only 153cm tall. Minh 0 1 mile Khiem Chamber, to the right behind Hoa A B Khiem Temple, was originally meant to be Thuan An a theatre. Dress-up photo opportunities and Beach (13km) cultural performances are available here. D Directly behind Hoa Khiem Temple is the PHU quieter Luong Khiem Temple, dedicated to HIEP Ð Pham Van Dong Tu Duc’s mother, Tu Du. Around the lake- 1 /·1 ›# 10 See Hue Map (p176) 1 shore is the Honour Courtyard. (PerTfuÐHmELeeHCRDuiIevuT#£eaAr#Ún)DE1ÐLLePLÐhoPuiCHMHuBAanaUTginiV–#›#SuBoRNOn((A1gih2vU0NukekTmnrmKHg)); You pass between a guard of elephants, 66D·/2 horses and diminutive mandarins (even NORTH Ð Dien Bien Phu 2 shorter than the emperor) before reach- BANK Ð Le Duan ing the Stele Pavilion, which shelters a Thien Mu 20-tonne stone tablet. Tu Duc drafted the #ÚPa1SgonogdHauong inscriptions himself. He freely admitted he’d made mistakes and named his tomb Khiem æ# 3 (‘modest’). The tomb, enclosed by a wall, is 66#Ú9 2 Tam Thai on the far side of a tiny lagoon. It’s a drab Hill monument and the emperor was never in- R terred here; where his remains were buried (along with great treasure) is not known. To 4 Ngu Binh R keep it secret from grave robbers, all 200 Hill servants who buried the king were behead- #â ed. Tu Duc lived a life of imperial luxury and C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m AS iorgouhutthns-dCHe nuter a l V i e tnam carnal excess (he had 104 wives and count- æ# 8 less concubines), though no offspring. 3 R3 Thien Thai æ# 7 Hill Perfume River Chau Chu æ# 5 Tomb of Minh Mang TOMB Village #\\ (adult/child 100,000/20,000d) This majes- \\# tic tomb is renowned for its architecture D4 4 æ# 6 Tuan and sublime forest setting. The tomb was Village RVHuilnl g planned during Minh Mang’s reign (1820– Tomb of Gia Long 1840) but built by his successor, Thieu Tri. (250m) Minh Mang’s tomb is in An Bang village, AB on the west bank of the Perfume River, 12km Around Hue from Hue. The Honour Courtyard is reached via æ Top Sights three gates on the eastern side of the wall. 1 Thien Mu Pagoda.................................A2 Three granite staircases lead from the courtyard to the square Stele Pavilion (Dinh æ Sights Vuong). 2 Bao Quoc Pagoda ................................B2 Sung An Temple, which is dedicated 3 Ho Quyen..............................................A2 to Minh Mang and his empress, is reached 4 Nam Giao Esplanade ...........................B2 via three terraces and the rebuilt Hien Duc 5 Tomb of Khai Dinh ...............................B4 Gate. On the other side of the temple, three 6 Tomb of Minh Mang ............................A4 stone bridges span Trung Minh Ho (Lake of 7 Tomb of Thieu Tri ................................A3 Impeccable Clarity). The central bridge was 8 Tomb of Tu Duc ...................................A3 for the emperor’s use only. Minh Lau Pavil- 9 Tu Hieu Pagoda ...................................A2 ion (Pavilion of Light) stands on the top of three superimposed terraces that represent ï Transport the ‘three powers’: the heavens, the earth 10 An Hoa Bus Station ............................. A1 and water. To the left is the Fresh Air Pavil- ion, to the right, the Angling Pavilion. Xung Khiem Pavilion, where he would sit From a stone bridge across crescent-­ with his concubines, composing or reciting shaped Tan Nguyet Lake (Lake of the New poetry. Hoa Khiem Temple is where Tu Moon), a monumental staircase with dragon Duc and his wife, Empress Hoang Le Thien banisters leads to Minh Mang’s sepulchre. Anh, were worshipped – today it houses roy- The gate to the tomb is opened only once al artefacts. The larger throne was for the

189 a year on the anniversary of the emperor’s (Sakyamuni); and Di Lac Buddha, the Bud- death. dha of the Future. oThien Mu Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE For a scenic bicycle ride, head southwest (parallel to the Perfume River) on riverside F Built on a hill overlooking the Perfume Ð Tran Hung Dao, which turns into Ð Le River, 4km southwest of the Citadel, this pa- Duan after Phu Xuan Bridge. Cross the rail- goda is an icon of Vietnam and as potent a way tracks and keep going on Ð Kim Long. symbol of Hue as the Citadel. The 21m-high Thien Mu Pagoda can also be reached by octagonal tower, Thap Phuoc Duyen, was boat. constructed under the reign of Emperor Thieu Tri in 1844. Each of its seven storeys is Tomb of Khai Dinh TOMB dedicated to a manushi-buddha (a Buddha (adult/child 100,000/20,000d) This hillside monument is a synthesis of Vietnamese that appeared in human form). Visit in the and European elements. Most of the tomb’s morning before tour groups show up. Thien Mu Pagoda was originally found- grandiose exterior is covered in blackened concrete, creating an unexpectedly Gothic ed in 1601 by Nguyen Hoang, governor of air, while the interiors resemble an explo- Thuan Hoa province. Over the centuries its buildings have been destroyed and rebuilt sion of colourful mosaic. Khai Dinh was the penultimate emperor of Vietnam, from 1916 C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SA iorgouhutthns-dCHe nuter a l V i e tnam several times. Since the 1960s it has been a to 1925, and widely seen as a puppet of the flashpoint of political demonstrations. To the right of the tower is a pavilion con- French. The construction of his flamboyant tomb took 11 years. The tomb of Khai Dinh is taining a stele dating from 1715. It’s set on 10km from Hue in Chau Chu village. the back of a massive marble turtle, a sym- bol of longevity. To the left of the tower is an- Steps lead to the Honour Courtyard where mandarin honour guards have a other six-sided pavilion, this one sheltering mixture of Vietnamese and European fea- an enormous bell (1710), weighing 2052kg and audible from 10km away. tures. Up three more flights of stairs is the stupendous main building, Thien Dinh. The The temple itself is a humble building in walls and ceiling are decorated with murals the inner courtyard, past the triple-gated entrance where three statues of Buddhist of the Four Seasons, Eight Precious Objects and Eight Fairies. Under a graceless, gold-­ guardians stand at the alert. In the main speckled concrete canopy is a gilt bronze sanctuary behind the bronze laughing Bud- dha are three statues: A Di Da, the Buddha statue of Khai Dinh. His remains are in- terred 18m below the statue. of the Past; Thich Ca, the historical Buddha A FIERY PROTEST Behind the main sanctuary of the Thien Mu Pagoda is the Austin motorcar that trans- ported the monk Thich Quang Duc to the site of his 1963 self-immolation. He publicly burned himself to death in Saigon to protest against the policies of South Vietnamese President Ngo Dinh Diem. A famous photograph of this act was printed on the front pages of newspapers around the world, and his death inspired a number of other self-immolations. The response of the president’s notorious sister-in-law, Tran Le Xuan (Madame Nhu), was to crassly proclaim the self-immolations a ‘barbecue party’, saying ‘Let them burn and we shall clap our hands’. Her statements greatly aggravated the already substantial public disgust with Diem’s regime. In November, both President Diem and his brother Ngo Dinh Nhu (Madame Nhu’s husband) were assassinated by Diem’s military. Madame Nhu was overseas at the time. Another self-immolation sparked fresh protest in 1993. A man arrived at the pagoda and, after leaving offerings, set himself alight chanting the word ‘Buddha’. Although his motivation remains a mystery, this set off a chain of events whereby the pagoda’s lead- ing monks were arrested and linked with the independent United Buddhists of Vietnam, the banned alternative to the state-sanctioned Vietnam Buddhists. This led to an official complaint to the UN by the International Federation of Human Rights accusing the Viet- namese government of violating its own constitution, which protects freedom of religion.

190 Ho Quyen HISTORIC SITE at the furthest end of the park, has photo- graphs with English captions. F Wildly overgrown but evocative, Ho Quyen was built in 1830 for the royal pas- Since 2006, the ceremony has been re-­ time of watching elephants and tigers face enacted as part of the Festival of Hue (p183). off in combat. The tigers (and leopards) Nam Giao Esplanade is at the southern end were usually relieved of their claws and of Ð Dien Bien Phu, about 2km from the rail- teeth so that the elephants – a symbol of the way tracks. emperor’s power – triumphed every time. Climb up grassy ramparts and imagine the Tomb of Thieu Tri TOMB scene in the old arena – the last fight was (admission 80,000d) The only royal tomb not enclosed by a wall, the monument of Thieu held in 1904. Tri (built 1848) has a similar floor plan to his The south-facing section was reserved for the royal family, while diametrically oppo- father Minh Mang’s tomb, but is substantial- ly smaller. The tomb is about 7km from Hue. site are the tiger cages. Ho Quyen is about 3km outside Hue in Truong Da village. Fol- low Ð Bui Thi Xuan west from the train sta- Tomb of Gia Long TOMB tion, then look out for the blue sign near the (admission free) F Emperor Gia Long founded the Nguyen dynasty in 1802 and C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SBioagcuhhtthsM- Ca eNnattri oa lnaVli ePtanrakm market that indicates the turn-off on the left. ruled until 1819. Both the emperor and his Follow this lane for about 200m to a fork in the road and go right. queen are buried here. The rarely visited tomb is presently in a state of ruin, but care- ful restoration has begun. It is around 14km Tu Hieu Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE south of Hue and 3km from the west bank of F Nestled in a pine forest, this popular the Perfume River. pagoda was built in 1843 and later co-o­ pted by eunuchs from the Citadel. Today 70 monks reside at Tu Hieu; they welcome vis- itors to the twin temples (one dedicated to Bach Ma National Park Cong Duc, the other to Buddha). Listen to their chanting daily at 4.30am, 10am, noon, A French-era hill station, this nation- 4pm and 7pm. Tu Hieu Pagoda is about 5km al park (Vuon Quoc Gia Bach Ma; %054-387 from the centre of Hue, on the way to the 1330; www.bachmapark.com.vn; adult/child tomb of Tu Duc. 40,000/20,000d) reaches a peak of 1450m Tu Hieu is associated with Zen master at Bach Ma mountain, only 18km from Thich Nhat Hanh, who studied at the mon- the coast. The cool climate attracted the astery in the 1940s, but lived in exile for French, who built over a hundred villas more than 40 years, and was only permitted here. Not surprisingly the Viet Minh tried to return to Vietnam in 2005. hard to spoil the holiday – the area saw some heavy fighting in the early 1950s and Thanh Toan Bridge BRIDGE again during the American War. A classic covered Japanese footbridge in The national park, extended in 2008, picturesque countryside, this makes a lovely stretches from the coast to the Annamite diversion from Hue. The bridge is in sleepy mountain range at the Lao border. More Thuy Thanh village, 7km east of Hue. Head than 1400 species of plants, including rare north for a few hundred metres on Ð Ba ferns and orchids, have been discovered in Trieu until you see a sign to the Citadel Ho- Bach Ma, representing a fifth of the flora of tel. Turn right and follow the bumpy dirt Vietnam. There are 132 kinds of mammals, road for another 6km past villages, rice pad- three of which were only discovered in the dies and several pagodas. 1990s: the antelope-like saola, Truong Son muntjac and the giant muntjac. Nine spe- Nam Giao Esplanade HISTORIC SITE cies of primates are also present, including small numbers of the rare red-shanked Douc This three-tiered esplanade was once the langur. It’s hoped wild elephants will return most important religious site in Vietnam, from the Lao side of the border. the place where the Nguyen emperors made animal sacrifices and elaborate offerings to As most of the park’s resident mammals the deity Thuong De. Ceremonies (last held are nocturnal, sightings demand a great in 1946) involved a lavish procession and a deal of effort and patience. Birdwatching is three-day fast by the emperor at the nearby fantastic, but you need to be up at dawn for Fasting Palace. The Fasting Palace, located the best chance of glimpsing some of the 358

191 TOMBS & DUNES C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SBioagcuhhtthsM- Ca&eNAnactttriioavlni taVilei esPtanrakm From the centre of Hue it’s only 15km north to the coast, the road shadowing the Per- fume River before you hit the sands of Thuan An Beach. Southeast from here there’s a beautiful, quiet coastal road to follow with very light traffic (so it’s ideal for bikers). The route traverses a narrow coastal island, with views of the Tam Giang-Cau Hai lagoon on the inland side and stunning sandy beaches and dunes on the other. This coastal strip is virtually undeveloped, but between September and March, the water’s often too rough for swimming. From Thuan An the road winds past villages alternating with shrimp lagoons and veg- etable gardens. Thousands of garishly colourful and opulent graves and family temples line the beach, most the final resting places of Viet Kieu (overseas Vietnamese) who wanted to be buried in their homeland. Tracks cut through the tombs and sand dunes to the beach. Pick a spot and you’ll probably have a beach to yourself. At glorious Phu Thuan beach (about 7km southeast of Thuan An), the Beach Bar Hue (%0908 993 584; www.beachbarhue.com; Phu Thuan beach; dm US$12; nW) has excellent shared four-bed bungalows and sits pretty on a sublime stretch of sand (with no hawkers…for now). There’s a funky bamboo-and-thatch bar for drinks and snacks, and next door Villa Louise (%0917 673 656; www.villalouisehue.com; Phu Thuan beach; d US$86-148, villa US$120-244; aWs) has wonderful villas, private rooms and two swimming pools. The villas are lovingly decorated in heritage Vietnamese style. The pools, restaurant and beach can all be used by outside guests, but there’s an entrance fee of 100,000d, which can be offset against food and beverage purchases in the beachfront bar. A taxi from Hue to Phu Thuan is around 250,000d and a xe om around 125,000d. Around 8km past Beach Bar Hue, the remains of Phu Dien, a small Cham temple, lie protected by a glass pavilion in the dunes just off the beach. There are seafood shacks here too. Continuing southeast, a narrow but paved road weaves past fishing villages, shrimp farms and giant sand dunes and the settlement of Vinh Hung until you reach the mouth of another river estuary at Thuon Phu An, where there’s a row of seafood restaurants. This spot is 40km from Thuan An. Cross the Tu Hien bridge here and you can continue around the eastern lip of the huge Cau Hai lagoon and link up with Hwy 1. species logged, including the fabulous crest- day) over the forest, Cau Hai lagoon and the ed argus pheasant. coast. Unexploded ordnance is still around, so stick to the trails. 1 Sights & Activities Zipline ADVENTURE TOUR Bach Ma is the wettest place in Vietnam, with the heaviest of the rain falling in Oc- (2 to 5 people 800,000d) Bach Ma’s newest at- tober and November (and bringing out the traction is a zipline through the Parashorea leeches). It’s not out of the question to visit forest at the 14km mark on the summit road. then, but check road conditions first. The Fans of aerial action will also appreciate the best time to visit is from February to Sep- ropes and ladders forming part of other tember, particularly between March and treks in the park. June. 4 Sleeping & Eating Hiking HIKING Visitor Centre The Rhododendron Trail (from Km 10 on Accommodation GUESTHOUSE $ the road) leads to the upper reaches of a (%054-387 1330; www.bachmapark.com.vn; spectacular waterfall; it’s 689 steps down for campsite per person 20,000d, r 300,000d) The a dip. The Five Lakes Trail passes pools for park authority has a small camping ground swimming before reaching a much smaller and two guesthouses near the entrance, waterfall. with basic twin-bed rooms with private The short Summit Hike leads to a view- bathrooms. point with magnificent views (on a clear

192 Summit Lang Co Beach Accommodation GUESTHOUSE $$ % 054 (%054-387 1330; www.bachmapark.com.vn; d 650,000-1,050,0000d) Near the summit are Lang Co is an attractive island-like stretch of four options, from the simple Kim Giao villa palm-shaded white sand, with a turquoise la- to the more comfortable Phong La villa. All goon on one side and 10km of beachfront on have private bathrooms, but note that not the other. As a beach resort it’s more geared all villas may be available for booking. When to Vietnamese day trippers than Western you book accommodation, give at least four travellers, but if the weather’s nice the ocean hours’ notice if you’re also wanting meals. is certainly inviting (if you stay away from Karaoke can be a feature of mountain life the central section, which could be cleaner). at the weekend. High season is April to July. From late Au- 88 Information gust till November, rains are frequent, and from December to March it can get chilly. C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m LSInaofnuogtrhCm-aoCteBineotanrcahl V i e tnam At the visitor centre (www.bachmapark. 4 Sleeping & Eating com.vn) by the park entrance there’s an exhibition on the park’s flora and fauna, and Most of the accommodation is north of the hiking booklets are available. You can book town along the highway. village and birdwatching tours and English- or French-speaking guides (between 300,000d Chi Na Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ and 500,000d per day). Ask whether Mr Cam (%054-387 4597; s/d 200,000/250,000d; aW) is available. One of several clean, basic guesthouses north of the centre, but here the family 88 Getting There & Around speaks a little English. Rooms are ageing but serviceable. Bach Ma is 28km west of Lang Co and 40km southeast of Hue. The turn-off is signposted in Vedana Lagoon RESORT $$$ the town of Cau Hai on Hwy 1. You can also enter (%054-381 9397; www.vedanalagoon.com; Phu Loc; from the town of Phu Loc. bungalows/villas from US$126/179; naiWs) Combining contemporary chic with natural Buses from Danang (80,000d, two hours) materials, this remote but very comfortable and Hue (60,000d, one hour) stop at Cau Hai, spa hotel has gorgeous villas and bungalows where xe om drivers can ferry you around 3km with thatched roofs, modish furnishings (25,000d) to the entrance. and outdoor bathrooms. Some have private pools, others jut over the lagoon to maximise From the visitor centre at the park entrance, the views. The complex includes a wonderful it’s a steep, serpentine 15km ascent, and the wellness centre (for t’ai chi and yoga classes). road almost reaches the summit. Walking down Vedana is 15km north of Lang Co. from the summit takes about three to four hours; you’ll need water and sunscreen. Minh Hang SEAFOOD $$ (meals 70,000-130,000d; h7am-9pm) The best Private transport to the summit is available seafood restaurant, situated on the north side from the visitor centre, and a return same-day of Lang Co, and has a lagoon view (instead journey is 900,000d for a six-person minibus. of the highway and rumbling trucks). Try At busy times, travellers can usually share the the lemon pepper squid or spicy clams with cost with other passengers. For an overnight ­lemongrass. stay, transport to the summit is 1,300,000d for six people. 88 Getting There & Away Note that cars are allowed in the park, so it’s Lang Co is on the north side of the Hai Van Tun- worth considering a tour here from Hue, or nel and Danang. arranging a car and driver for around US$50 return. Motorbikes are not allowed in the park, Lang Co’s train station (% 054-387 4423) is but there is a secure parking area near the visi- 3km from the beach, in the direction of the la- tor centre. goon. Getting a xe om to the beach shouldn’t be difficult. The train journey from here to Danang A recommended Hue-based tour company is (50,000d, 1½ to two hours, five daily) is one of Oriental Sky Travel (% 0985 555 827; www. the most spectacular in Vietnam. Services also facebook.com/bachmanationalpark.hue connect to Hue (60,000d, 1½ to two hours, four vietnam; 2 days/1 night per person US$201), daily). which offers regular overnight explorations of the park.

193 est) cable car system has opened up access. Hai Van Pass & Tunnel The ride involves a rise of almost 1400m, a truly spectacular trip over dense jungle and C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SHGoeatui tVtiahnn-gCPeTanhstesrra&el&TVuAinewntaenylam The Hai Van (Sea Cloud) Pass crosses over waterfalls. At the top, attractions include a a spur of the Truong Son mountain range replica French provincial town, a funicu- that juts into the sea. About 30km north of lar railway ascending even higher, and an Danang, the road climbs to an elevation of exciting and fun downhill luge. None of the 496m, passing south of the Ai Van Son peak attractions are vaguely Vietnamese, but the (1172m). It’s an incredibly mountainous cable car journey is truly spectacular, and if stretch of highway – you may have seen the you visit on a weekend or public holiday, it’s spectacular views on the Top Gear Vietnam interesting to mix in with local tourists. special. The railway track, with its many tunnels, goes around the peninsula, follow- Take an extra layer or two whatever ing the beautiful and deserted shoreline. time of year you visit – when it’s 36°C on the coast, it could be 15°C on the mountain. In the 15th century, this pass formed the Cloud and mist also cling to the hilltop, so if boundary between Vietnam and the kingdom you can, try to visit on a clear day. of Champa. Until the American War, it was heavily forested. At the summit is a bullet-­ Mountain tracks lead to waterfalls scarred French fort, later used as a bunker by and viewing points. Near the top is the the South Vietnamese and US armies. Linh Ung Pagoda (2004) and a colossal 24m-high white seated Buddha that’s visible If you cross in winter, the pass is a tangi- for miles around. ble dividing line between the climates of the north and south, protecting Danang from As all the hotels are poor value for money, the fierce ‘Chinese winds’ that sweep in from it’s best to see Ba Na on a day trip. the northeast. From November to March the exposed Lang Co side of the pass can be wet See the Ba Na Hill website (www.ban- ahills.com.vn) for more information. and chilly, while just to the south it’s often 88 Getting There & Away warm and dry. The top of the pass is the only place you Ba Na is 42km west of Danang. From the resort’s can stop. The view is well worth it, especially car park and entrance, the cable car (return if you climb up to the abandoned fort. 500,000d) ascends to the mountain resort. In 2005, the 6280m-long Hai Van Tun- Travel agencies in Danang or Hoi An can arrange day tours (per person from US$50), or a return nel opened, bypassing the pass and shaving taxi from Danang is around US$60. an hour off the journey between Danang and Hue. Motorbikers and cyclists are not permitted to ride through the tunnel (but you can pay to have your bike transported Danang through in a truck). Sure it saves time, but % 0511 / POP 1,070,000 on a nice day it really is a shame to miss the views from the pass. Nowhere in Vietnam is changing as fast as Danang. For decades it had a reputation as Despite the odd hair-raising encounter, a provincial backwater, but big changes are the pass road is safer than it used to be. If ongoing. Stroll along the Han riverfront and you can take your eyes off the highway, keep you’ll find gleaming new modernist hotels, them peeled for the small altars on the road- and apartments and restaurants are emerg- side – sobering reminders of those who have ing. Spectacular new bridges now span the died in accidents on this winding route. Han River, and in the north of the city, the landmark new D-City is rising from the flat- lands. Venture south and the entire China Beach strip is booming with hotel and resort Ba Na Hill Resort developments. % 0511 / ELEV 1485M That said, the city itself still has few con- ventional sightseeing spots, except for a very A hill resort inherited from the French, lush decent museum and a stunningly quirky Ba Na has refreshingly cool weather and bridge. So for most travellers, a few days gorgeous countryside views. Established in enjoying the city’s beaches, restaurants and 1919, the resort area once held 200-odd vil- nightlife is probably enough. Book an after-­ las, but only a few ruins remain. dark tour to see Danang at its shimmering Until WWII, the French were carried up the last 20km of rough mountain road by se- dan chair, but now a 5.7km (the world’s long-

194 e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles Danang B C D 44A 4 #ú 13 #ú 1 Ð Dong Da 16 Bay ofNguyen Tat Thanh 21 Danang #û 4441 Ð Tran Qui Cap 444 Ð Bach DangÐ Ly Thuong Kiet Ù# Ð Tran Phu TBhiannhh Beach Ð Le Loi Ð Nguyen Du 2 Ð Ong Ich Khiem Ð Cao Thang Ð Ly Tu Trong #û 23 2 ÿ# 8 66Ð Dinh Tien Hoang Ð Ba Dinh C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SGDoae tnutatihnng-gC eTnhterrael&VAi ewtanyam 15 #ú Ð Le Lai Ð Quang Trung Ð Nguyen Chi Thanh 3 Ð Tran Cao Van Hospital C Fatfish 3 £# #î Ð Nguyen Thi Minh Khai 6ÿ# Ð Hai PhÚ#ongÐ Ngo Gia Tu D(1.2km) 66Danang 3 Ð Le Duan ò# ÿ# Danang Ð Pasteur Ð Phan Dinh Phung11 Stadium 24ï# 20#ü 4 Con 4 666Market Han Ð Hung Vuong Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc Market Ð Pham 7 ÿ# Ð Yen ÿ# Hong Thai Bai#Ü #ú 18 10 Ð Tran PhuToan 4 #25 Ð Pham Phu Thu 26 #, #û 19 6665 ÐTran Quoc Ð Hoang Dieu #ú Ð Trieu Nu Vuong Ð Phan Chu Trinh Ð OngIchKhiemÐ Nguyen Trai ÿ# Ð 17 5 9 Thai Phien #û #ì Ð Le Hong 22 Phong Han River Ú# ÿ# Ð Hoang Van Thu 5 Ð 12 Danang Family Le Dinh Medical Practice #î Ð HuyKnhhaTnhguc Duong Dragon Ð Nguyen Van Linh Bridge 6 Museum of æ# 6 1 Cham Sculpture 66A B C D â# 2 Ð 2/9 14 #ú Ð Trung Nu Vuong neon-lit best. The city’s street-food scene soldiers). China Beach and the five Marble also deserves close investigation. Mountains lie southwest of the city. Danang also makes a great base for day History trips. The city is part of a long thin pen- insula, at the northern tip of which is Nui Known during French colonial rule as Tou- Son Tra (called Monkey Mountain by US rane, Danang succeeded Hoi An as the most

195 Danang 14 Com Tay Cam Cung Dinh ......................B6 C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SDioagnuhatthnsg- C e nt r a l V i e tnam 15 Le Bambino.............................................B3 æ Top Sights 16 Madame Lan ........................................... D1 1 Dragon Bridge........................................ D6 17 Quan Com Hue Ngon .............................D5 2 Museum of Cham Sculpture................. D6 18 Waterfront ..............................................D5 û Drinking & Nightlife æ Sights 19 Bamboo 2 Bar.........................................D5 3 Cao Dai Temple ..................................... B3 20 Cong Caphe ............................................D4 4 Danang Cathedral.................................. D5 21 Luna Pub ................................................. D1 5 Phap Lam Pagoda ................................. B6 22 On the Radio ...........................................D5 23 Sky 36 .....................................................D2 ÿ Sleeping ï Information 6 Funtastic Danang Hostel ...................... B3 24 Danang Visitor Centre ...........................D4 7 New Moon Hotel .................................... D4 25 Sinh Tourist ............................................D5 8 Novotel Danang Premier Han ï Transport River..................................................... D2 26 Vy Bicycle ...............................................D5 9 Orange Hotel.......................................... C5 10 Sanouva.................................................. C5 11 Stargazer Hotel...................................... D4 12 Zion Hotel ............................................... C6 ú Eating 13 Bread of Life............................................D1 important port in central Vietnam during ID – passport or drivers licence – or leave a the 19th century, a position it retains to refundable US$50 bond. this day. The treasures come from Dong Duong As American involvement in Vietnam (Indrapura), Khuong My, My Son, Tra Kieu escalated, Danang was where American and other sites. There are also exhibits fo- combat troops first landed in South Viet- cusing on Cham culture today, with con- nam – 3500 Marines in March 1965. Mem- temporary artefacts and photos of the Kate orably, they stormed Nam O Beach in full Festival (the Cham New Year). battle gear, only to be greeted by a bevy of ao dai–wearing Vietnamese girls bearing oDragon Bridge BRIDGE cheerful flower garlands. A decade later, with the Americans and South Vietnamese (Map p194; Cau Rong) Welcome to the biggest in full retreat, the scene was very different as show in town every Saturday and Sunday desperate civilians fled the city. On 29 March night. At 9pm, this graceful golden-hued 1975, two truckloads of communist guerril- bridge spouts fire and water from the drag- las, more than half of them women, declared on’s head near the Han River’s eastern bank. Danang liberated without firing a shot. The best places to observe are the various cafes lining the eastern bank to the north of Today Danang hosts one of Vietnam’s the bridge, and boat trips also depart from most vibrant economies, and is often dubbed Ð Bach Dang on the river’s western bank to ‘Silicon City’ due to its booming web sector. make the most of Danang’s after-dark, neon-­ lit splendour. 1 Sights Cao Dai Temple BUDDHIST TEMPLE oMuseum of Cham Sculpture MUSEUM (Map p194; 63 Ð Hai Phong; hprayers 5.30am, (Bao Tang; Map p194; 1 Ð Trung Nu Vuong; admis- 11.30am, 5.30pm & 11.30pm) F This is Cen- sion 40,000d; h7am-5pm) This fine museum tral Vietnam’s largest Cao Dai temple, serv- has the world’s largest collection of Cham ing about 50,000 followers. A sign reading artefacts, housed in buildings marrying van giao nhat ly (all religions have the same French-colonial architecture with Cham reason) hangs before the main altar. Behind elements. Founded in 1915 by the École the gilded letters are the founders of five Française d’Extrême Orient, it displays more of the world’s great religions: Mohammed, than 300 pieces including altars, lingas, Laotse (wearing Eastern Orthodox–style garudas, apsaras, Ganeshas and images of robes), Jesus, a Southeast Asian–looking Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu – all dating from Buddha and Confucius. Behind the main al- the 5th to 15th centuries. To hire an MP3 tar sits an enormous globe with the Cao Dai audio guide (20,000d), you’ll need to show ‘divine eye’ symbol.

196 Ho Chi Minh Museum MUSEUM dark river cruises to bar-hopping and the city’s spooky ghostly past. (Map p200; 3 Ð Nguyen Van Troi; h7-11am & 1.30- 4.30pm) F Despite its huge grounds, this 4 Sleeping museum is typically unenlightening for a site venerating Ho Chi Minh. At the front is Danang has a fast-expanding selection of a display of the usual US, Soviet and Chinese modern hotels along the riverside, and a weaponry. Hidden behind the Party build- couple of much-needed new hostels. For ac- ings are a replica of Ho Chi Minh’s house in commodation just across the river, see the Hanoi, and the museum. China Beach listings. Danang Cathedral CHURCH Funtastic Danang Hostel HOSTEL $ (Map p194; Ð Tran Phu) F Known to locals (Map p194; %0511-389 2024; www.funtastic as Con Ga Church (Rooster Church) be- cause of the weathercock atop the steeple, danang.com; 115 Ð Hai Phong; dm US$9, d & tw US$19; aiW) Danang’s first specialist hos- the candy-pink Danang Cathedral was built tel is a goodie, with young and energetic for the city’s French residents in 1923. To- day it serves a Catholic community of over owners, colourful rooms and dorms, and a comfortable lounge area when all you want 4000, and is standing room only if you ar- to do is chill and watch a DVD. Ask about C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m DST oaunarthsng- C e nt r a l V i e tnam rive late. the street-food tours. Phap Lam Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE Zion Hotel HOTEL $ (Map p194; 574 Ð Ong Ich Khiem; h5-11.30am (Map p194; %0511-382 8333; http://sion.com. & 1-9pm) F This pagoda has three gi- ant Buddha statues in the courtyard, and vn; 121/7 Ð Hoang Van Thu; s US$15, d US$20-25; aiW) There’s a scarlet theme running an equally imposing large gold one in the through this excellent-value hotel from the temple. lobby to the inviting, modern rooms. Boasts a convenient location and staff are eager to T Tours please. Danang Unplugged TOUR Orange Hotel HOTEL $$ (%0905 101 930; www.danangunplugged.com; per (Map p194; %0511-356 6177; www.danang person US$69-89) These tours – conducted in either a US Army jeep or on the back of a orangehotel.com; 29 Ð Hoang Dieu; d US$52-75; aiW) This family-owned hotel has an out- motorbike – explore the city’s street-food standing approach to customer service, all and after-dark scenes. Other options are sightseeing around town, or a day trip to instilled by the friendly patriarch/boss who’s usually on hand at reception or in the roof- the Hai Van Pass. Look forward to really in- top restaurant. The room decor does veer teresting street-food discoveries for curious travelling foodies. to chintzy on the style continuum, but any OTT design choices can easily be overlooked because of the spotless rooms and expansive Danang Food Tour FOOD (www.danangfoodtour.com; per person US$45) Ex- breakfast buffet featuring local dishes. cellent morning and evening explorations of the local food scene by a passionate expat Sanouva BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (Map p194; %0511-382 3468; www.sanouvadan foodie. Check the website for his great blog ang.com; 68 Ð Phan Chau Trinh; d from US$40; on the best of Danang. aiW) Boutique meets business at the styl- ish Sanouva, located in a bustling commer- Funtastic Tours TOUR (%0903 561 777; www.funtasticdanang.com; per cial street just a few blocks from Danang’s person US$45) Run by the funky young team behind Danang’s Funtastic hostels, with riverfront. An Asian chic lobby is the intro- duction to relatively compact but modern tours including street food and sightseeing. rooms, and the in-house S’Spa and S’Ngon Transport is by car. Check out www.danang restaurant are two good reasons to linger cuisine.com for Danang tips by operator within the Sanouva’s chic interior. Summer Ly, a local food blogger who’s been featured in the NY Times. New Moon Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p194; %0511-382 8488; www.newmoon hotel.vn; 126 Ð Bach Dang; r 440,000-900,000d; Meet My Danang TOUR (www.meetmydanang.com; per person US$8-40) aiW) Modern minihotel with a selection Tours exploring Danang ranging from after- of inviting rooms in different price catego-

197 ries, all with flat-screen TV, minibar, wi-fi Pasteur St Brewing. Fatfish is good for a few and en-suite marble bathrooms, while the snacks or a more leisurely full meal. river-view options enjoy incredible vistas. Book for before 9pm on a Saturday or Stargazer Hotel HOTEL $$ Sunday night for front-row seats to see the (Map p194; %0511-381 5599; www.stargazer.net; nearby Dragon Bridge do its fiery party 77 Ð Tran Phu; r 350,000-800,000d; aiW) trick. Around Fatfish, a new boating marina A welcoming hotel with neat, if smallish, and boardwalk is being completed, and the rooms featuring attractive wood furniture, area will no doubt develop into Danang’s large TVs and comfy beds with duvets. Num- hottest restaurant precinct. ber 301 has a balcony and river view. oWaterfront INTERNATIONAL $$ Novotel Danang (Map p194; %0511-384 3373; www.water frontdanang.com; 150-152 Ð Bach Dang; meals Premier Han River HOTEL $$$ 95,000-360,000d; h10am-11pm; W) Riverfront (Map p194; %0511-392 9999; www.novotel -danang-premier.com; 36 Ð Bach Dang; r/ste from lounge-cum-restaurant that gets everything right on every level. It works as a stylish bar US$130/220; naiWs) Towering river­ for a chilled glass of NZ Sauvignon Blanc or side landmark with hip rooms and un- matched views over the Han River towards an imported beer and also as a destination C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m SDEaoatnuiatnhngg- C e nt r a l V i e tnam restaurant for a memorable meal (book the the beach and ocean. Staff are welcoming terrace deck for a stunning river vista). The and well trained, and facilities include a pool, spa and fitness centre. Those who en- menu features imported meats, Asian sea- food and also terrific ‘gourmet’ sandwiches. joy the high life should check out the 36th- floor sky bar. Le Bambino FRENCH, INTERNATIONAL $$ (Map p194; %0511-389 6386; www.lebambino. 5 Eating com; 122/11 Ð Quang Trung; meals 120,000- Danang’s restaurant scene is growing more 300,000d; h11.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-10pm Mon- cosmopolitan by the day. Street food is also Sat, 4.30-10pm Sun; W) Atmospheric place run great here, with copious bun cha (barbe- by a couple (French husband, Vietnamese cued pork), com (rice) and mi quang (noo- wife) who have crafted a great menu that dle soup) stalls. Dedicated foodies should takes in French classics, pub food, barbe- strongly consider booking a food tour to cued meat (try the ribs) and a few Vietnam- really explore the Danang scene. ese favourites. Eat inside or around the pool, and don’t neglect the wine list or the cheese Quan Com Hue Ngon VIETNAMESE $ selections, both of which are superb. (Map p194; 65 Ð Tran Quoc Toan; meals 45,000- 80,000d; h3-9pm) Fab barbecue place, all Madame Lan VIETNAMESE $$ (Map p194; www.madamelan.com; 4 Ð Bach charcoal smoke and sizzling meats, where Dang; meals 100,000-250,000d; h10am-10pm; you grill your own. There’s a street terrace, and the welcoming English-speaking owner W) Huge restaurant in a French colonial–­ style building where you can eat in an will help with the menu. open courtyard or in one of the river-facing Com Tay Cam Cung Dinh VIETNAMESE $ dining rooms. The menu has lots of good (Map p194; K254/2 Ð Hoang Dieu; meals 20,000- 50,000d; h11am-8pm) This simple place is choices, including squid with chilli and salt, and green papaya salad with shrimp good for local dishes, including hoanh and garlic. thanh (a wonton-like combination of minced pork and shrimp). It’s down a little alley. Bread of Life INTERNATIONAL $$ (Map p194; www.breadoflifedanang.com; 4 Ð Dong oFatfish Da; meals 70,000-180,000d; h10am-10pm Mon- FUSION, PIZZA $$ (Map p200; www.fatfishdanang.com; 439 Ð Tran Hung Dao; meals 70,000-285,000d; h9am-11pm; Sat; W) Excellent American-style diner- cum-bakery with a good menu of burgers, W) This stylish restaurant and lounge bar Mexican food, sandwiches, pizza and pasta. is leading the eating and drinking charge across the river on the Han’s eastern shore. A very good bet for brekkie; the bacon bur- rito really hits the spot. Run by deaf staff, Innovative Asian fusion dishes, pizza and proceeds go towards training activities for wood-fired barbecue dishes all partner with flavour-packed craft beers from Saigon’s the deaf in Danang.

198 Bamboo 2 Bar BAR 6 Drinking (Map p194; 230 Ð Bach Dang; h10am-midnight; W) Sociable, but predictable expat bar with For a lounge-bar-style drink with a view, clientele of boozy regulars, cheap beer and also check out Waterfront (p197) or Fatfish a busy pool table. A good place to catch live (p197). Luna Pub BAR sport on TV. (Map p194; www.facebook.com/lunapubdanang; 88 Information 9a Ð Tran Phu; h11.30am-late; W) Half-bar, half-Italian restaurant, this hot hang-out is Agribank (Map p194; 202 Ð Nguyen Chi Thanh; a cool warehouse-sized space with an open h7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Sat) With ATM. frontage, a DJ booth in the cabin of a truck, Danang Experience (www.danangexperience. cool music, an amazing drinks selection and com) Comprehensive website with an expat slant some shisha smoking action. Also popular but is also good for visitors with eating, drinking with the expat crowd for its authentic Italian and accommodation recommendations. food (pizza, pasta, salads and more). Check Danang Family Medical Practice (Map p194; Facebook for regular live gigs. % 0511-358 2700; www.vietnammedical practice.com; 50-52 Ð Nguyen Van Linh; C e ntr a l Vi e tn a m DS oar niunatkhnig-nCge nt r a l V i e tnam Sky 36 COCKTAIL BAR h7am-6pm) With in-patient facilities; run by an Australian doctor. (Map p194; Novotel Danang, 36 Ð Bach Dang; Danang Visitor Centre (Map p194; % 0511-386 h5pm-midnight) Ubermodern rooftop bar 3595; www.tourism.danang.vn; 32a Ð Phan with excellent cocktails, innovative bar snacks Dinh Phung; h7.30am-9pm) Really helpful, and the best after-dark views of Danang’s riv- with English spoken, and good maps and er and neon-lit bridges. Note there is a smart- brochures. Danang’s official tourism website is casual code – including wearing closed-in one of Vietnam’s best. shoes – this applies to male visitors. Hospital C (Benh Vien C; Map p194; % 0511- 382 1483; 122 Ð Hai Phong; h24hr) The most Cong Caphe CAFE advanced of the four hospitals in town. In Danang (www.indanang.com) Danang’s most (Map p194; 1 Ð Bach Dang; drinks from 40,000d; established expat/tourist information website. h7am-11pm; W) The Danang offshoot of Main Post Office (Map p194; 64 Ð Bach Dang; Hanoi’s quirky Communist-themed cafes is h7am-5.30pm) Near the Song Han Bridge. a top spot for a riverside caffeine fix – try Sinh Tourist (Map p194; % 0511-384 3258; the superb coffee with yoghurt – or a well- www.thesinhtourist.vn; 154 Ð Bach Dang; priced beer or cocktail later in the day. It h7am-10pm) Books open-tour buses and can get smoky, so try and grab a seat near tours, and offers currency exchange. the windows. On the Radio BAR 88 Getting There & Away (Map p194; www.facebook.com/ontheradio.bar; 35 AIR Ð Thai Phien; h6pm-late; W) Danang’s go-to Danang’s busy airport has many domestic spot for live music and draught beer, and a connections and popular international flights good place to meet younger residents with a to Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong and Singapore. decent grasp of English. TRANSPORT FROM DANANG DESTINATION AIR BUS CAR/MOTORBIKE TRAIN Dong Hoi - Hanoi 120,000d, 6½hr, 6-7hr US$12-20, 5½- HCMC from US$42, 1hr 7 daily 8½hr, 6 daily Hue 10min, 9 daily Nha Trang from US$47, 1hr 365,000d, 16-19hr, 19hr US$35-50, 14½- 15min, 18 daily 7 daily 18hr, 6 daily - 380,000d, 19-25hr, 18hr US$35-55, 17-22hr, from US$45, 9 daily 5 daily 30min, 2 daily 55,000d, 3hr, 2½-4hr US$4-7, 2½-4hr, every 20min 6 daily 230,000d, 10-13hr, 13hr US$20-35, 9-12hr, 8 daily 5 daily