Lonely Planet Vietnam

PDF Vietnam PDF ebook Edition 13th Edition Release Date Aug 2016 Pages 520 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: PLAN YOUR TRIP 1 Sights 4 Sleeping Your planning tool kit Photos & suggestions to help r Beaches 5 Eating you create the perfect trip. 2 Activities 6 Drinking ON THE ROAD C Courses 3 Entertainment Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use T Tours 7 Shopping maps & insider tips. z Festivals 8 I&nfTorramnsaptioornt UNDERSTAND & Events Get more from your trip Learn about the big picture, to All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, make sense of what you see. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we SURVIVAL GUIDE suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Your at-a-glance reference Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Vital practical information range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these for a smooth trip. ranges, by author preference. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train n Nonsmoking apt apartments a Air-conditioning d double rooms i Internet access dm dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Vietnam Northern Vietnam p99 Hanoi p54 Central Vietnam p152 Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor (Cambodia) p417 Southwest Highlands p287 Southeast Coast p233 Ho Chi Minh City Mekong p311 Delta p366 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Iain Stewart, Brett Atkinson, Anna Kaminski, Jessica Lee, Nick Ray, Benedict Walker

PLAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP HUYTHOAI/GETTY IMAGES © Welcome to Vietnam. . . . . 4 HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Lang Co Beach. . . . . . . . . . 192 Vietnam Map. . . . . . . . . . . 6 Hai Van Pass & Tunnel. . . . 193 PETER ADAMS/GETTY IMAGES © Vietnam’s Top 20. . . . . . . 8 NORTHERN Ba Na Hill Resort. . . . . . . . 193 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 18 VIETNAM. . . . . . . . . . . 99 Danang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 First Time Vietnam. . . . . . 20 Around Danang. . . . . . . . . . 199 What’s New. . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Northeast Vietnam. . . . . 102 Hoi An. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Ba Be National Park . . . . . 102 Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . . 220 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 25 Con Son & My Son. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Den Kiep Bac . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Tra Kieu (Simhapura) . . . 226 Vietnam Outdoors . . . . . . 36 Haiphong. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Chien Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Eat & Drink Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Bai Tu Long Bay. . . . . . . . . 120 SOUTHEAST Regions at a Glance. . . . . 50 Mong Cai & COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 the Chinese Border. . . . . . 122 HA GIANG PROVINCE P148 Quang Ngai. . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Northwest Vietnam . . . . 127 Around Quang Ngai. . . . . 236 FLOWER HMONG PEOPLE, Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Quy Nhon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 BAC HA P145 Mai Chau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Cha Ban Cham Area . . . . 243 Son La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Dien Bien Phu. . . . . . . . . . . 131 Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang . . . 245 Muong Lay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Lai Chau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Around Nha Trang . . . . . . 263 Sapa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Phan Rang & Lao Cai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Thap Cham. . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Bac Ha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Ninh Chu Beach. . . . . . . . 265 Ha Giang Province. . . . . . . 148 Ca Na. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Mui Ne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 CENTRAL Phan Thiet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 VIETNAM. . . . . . . . . . 152 Ta Cu Mountain . . . . . . . . . 273 Phan Thiet to North-Central Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Vietnam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Ninh Binh Province . . . . . . 153 Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Phong Nha-Ke Bang Con Dao Islands. . . . . . . . 279 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Dong Hoi & Around . . . . . . 167 SOUTHWEST HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . 287 South-Central Vietnam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Dalat & Around. . . . . . . . . 289 Demilitarised Ngoan Muc Pass. . . . . . . . 298 Zone (DMZ). . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Cat Tien Dong Ha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 298 Quang Tri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Lak Lake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Hue. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Around Hue. . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Bach Ma National Park. . 190

Contents UNDERSTAND Buon Ma Thuot. . . . . . . . . . 301 Can Tho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Vietnam Today . . . . . . . . 434 Around Buon Soc Trang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Ma Thuot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Ca Mau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 People & Culture . . . . . . 454 Pleiku. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 U-Minh Forest. . . . . . . . . . 387 Arts & Architecture. . . . 460 Kon Tum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Rach Gia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387 Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . . 464 Phu Quoc Island. . . . . . . . 389 Environment. . . . . . . . . . 470 HO CHI MINH Ha Tien. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399 CITY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Chau Doc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 SURVIVAL Sam Mountain . . . . . . . . . 409 GUIDE Around Long Xuyen. . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 Ho Chi Minh City . . . . . . 359 Cao Lanh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 478 Cu Chi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 Sa Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 Tay Ninh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498 One Pillar Pagoda. . . . . . .364 SIEM REAP & Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 503 Can Gio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 THE TEMPLES OF Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512 ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . . 417 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . 518 MEKONG DELTA. . . . 366 Siem Reap. . . . . . . . . . . . 418 My Tho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 Ben Tre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 Temples of Angkor. . . . 426 Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 Angkor Wat. . . . . . . . . . . . 426 Vinh Long. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . 427 BRUNO DE HOGUES/GETTY IMAGES © SPECIAL FEATURES Vietnam Outdoors. . . . . . 36 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . . 43 Hue in 3D. . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Scenes of Vietnam. . . . . 227 Angkor Wat in 3D. . . . . . 428 HOI AN P203

4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Vietnam Astonishingly exotic and utterly compelling, Vietnam is a country of breathtaking natural beauty with a unique heritage, where travel quickly becomes addictive. Sensory Overload A Culinary Superpower Unforgettable experiences are everywhere The Thais may grumble, but in Southeast in Vietnam. There’s the sublime: gazing Asia nothing really comes close: Vietnam- over a surreal seascape of limestone islands ese food is that good. Incredibly subtle in from the deck of a traditional junk in Ha- its flavours and outstanding in its diversity, long Bay. The ridiculous: taking 10 minutes Vietnamese cooking is a fascinating draw just to cross the street through a tsunami for travellers – myriad street-food tours and of motorbikes in Hanoi. The inspirational: cooking schools are testament to this. Geo­ exploring the world’s most spectacular cave graphy plays a crucial role, with Chinese systems in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National flavours influencing the soups of the north, Park. The comical: watching a moped spices sparking up southern cuisine, and loaded with honking pigs weave a wobbly herbs and complex techniques typifying route along a country lane. And the con- the central coastline, rightly renowned as templative: witnessing a solitary grave in a Vietnam’s epicurean epicentre. And up and cemetery of thousands of war victims. down the country you can mingle with vil- lagers, sample local dishes and sip rice wine War, Peace & Progress in Vietnam’s many regional markets. Forty years after the carnage and destruc- Thrills & Chills tion of an epoch-defining conflict, Vietnam is resolutely a nation, not a war, in the If you’ve got the bills, Vietnam’s got the eyes of the world. Self-confident and fast- thrills and chills. Some require a little developing, its progress is all-evident in the physical effort, such as motorbiking switch- country’s booming metropolises. Vietnam’s back after switchback up the jaw-dropping allure is easy to appreciate (and something Hai Van Pass in central Vietnam. Others of a history lesson) as ancient, labyrinthine require even more sweat: kitesurfing the trading quarters of still-thriving craft in- tropical oceanic waters off Mui Ne or hiking dustries are juxtaposed with grand colonial the evergreen hills around Bac Ha or Sapa. mansions from the French era, all overseen And when you’re done with all that adrena- from the skybars of 21st-century glass-and- line stuff, there’s plenty of horizontal ‘me’ steel highrises. time to relish. Vietnam has outstanding spas – from marble temples of treatments, to simple family-run massage salons with backpacker-friendly rates.

JAKKREE THAMPITAKKUL/500PX © 5 Why I Love Vietnam By Iain Stewart, Writer I find myself returning to Vietnam for the same reasons: to feast on the best seafood in the world, ride a lonely mountain pass I’ve not yet experienced, and search for that perfect cove beach I’ve not yet found. The country has changed immeasurably since I first arrived in 1991 (when the nation was still shell-shocked from the war with the USA and Hanoi was a city of bicycles) but I continue to be astounded by the spirit, determination and sheer lust for life of the Vietnamese people. For more about our writers, see page 520 Above: Terraced rice fields, Sapa (p136)

Vietnam 0 200 km 0 120 miles Sapa Trekking Lai Chau Ha Giang CHINA 20ºN Hike through tribal (Tam Duong) Nanning 18ºN Lao Bac Ha villages (p137) Cai Ba Be Cao Bang Paracel National Park Islands Sapa Hoang Lien Extreme North Muong Lay National Park Ba Be Lakes Pingxiang Hill tribes and spectacular (Lai Chau) MYANMAR Dien Bien FTG(3uaia1nao4sni3pmSaon)nMHLooauanntgaYMieLnnaiNsieBCNanatBhaCiiPoaatauiunVorVcanikeliPathlTPuroiaTQnruHukgyoaenangBinhNTHhgLDAauaiuHnyNoBeganaOniTScghoINaniinBhHinahHipCCIahslailootMtaynnnBgogdangHBCaaaliyoBLnoagmni DgToouuBnangytxainign scenery (p148) (BURMA) Phu Zhanjiang Tay Trang Halong Bay Ba Be National Park Thousands of amazing Forested peaks and fine limestone islands (p107) hiking (p102) LAOS Nam Xoi Na Meo Tam Ninh Binh Coc Thanh Hoa Hanoi Nong Nam Can Captivating capital steeped Phonsavan Haet Hainan in history (p54) Island (China) Gulf of Vinh Tonkin VIENTIANE Cau Ha Tinh Phong Nha-Ke Bang Treo National Park Mekong Nam Phao Caves, rivers and outstanding mountain scenery (p162) River Cha Lo Tha Khaek Na Phao Dong Hoi Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Dong Ha Hue Lao Majestic former imperial Bao capital (p174) Dansavanh Khe Sanh Hue

Savannakhet Bach Ma Danang THAILAND National Cham Islands Park Hoi An My Son Tam Ky Hoi An A delightful ancient port Pakse Quang Ngai (p203) Attapeu Bo Y SOUTH Angkor Wat (Cambodia) Kon Tum CHINA One of the wonders Pleiku of the world (p426) C e n t r a l H i gh l an d s SEA CAMBODIA Mekong River 14ºN BANGKOK Angkor Wat Siem Reap Quy Nhon Battambang Tonlé Yok Don Sap National Tuy Hoa Dalat Park Atmospheric old French Buon Ma hill station (p289) Thuot Gulf of Cat Tien National Park Nha Trang Thailand Wildlife-spotting, hiking Dalat 12ºN ELEVATION and biking (p298) Cat Tien 1500m PHNOM Tay Ninh National Phan Rang & Mui Ne 1000m PENH Cu Chi Park Thap Cham Cosmopolitan beach and 500m Kaam Samnor watersport resort (p265) 200m Vinh Xuong Mui Ne 0 Takeo HO CHI MINH Bien Hoa Phan CITY (SAIGON) Thiet Kampot Tinh Chau Doc Cao Lanh Duong Ha Tien Bien My Tho Ben Tre Dong Long Long Hai Ho Chi Minh City Xuyen Vinh Vung Vietnam at its liveliest, Rach Tau Phu Quoc Gia Can Tho Long Tra Vinh buzzing best (p311) Island 10ºN Mekong Soc Trang Delta PaPrhaduisQeuisolcanIdslainntdhe Gulf of Thailand (p389) Ca Mau Bac Lieu Con Dao FarCoount,DfaaroeIasslta(npd2s79) Con Dao National 110ºE Islands Park 102ºE 104ºE 106ºE 108ºE

8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Vietnam’s Top 20

9 Food Hoi An 1 Locally sourced and seasonal, complex 2 Vietnam’s most cosmopolitan and and refined, Vietnamese food (p464) civilised town, this beautiful ancient is perhaps Asia’s greatest culinary secret. port is bursting with gourmet restaurants, Essentially it’s all about the freshness of hip bars and cafes, quirky boutiques and the ingredients – chefs shop twice daily to expert tailors. Immerse yourself in history collect just-picked herbs from the market. in the warren-like lanes of the Old Town, The result? Incomparable texture and and tour the temples and pagodas. Dine flavour combinations. For the Vietnamese, like an emperor on a peasant’s budget a meal should balance sour and sweet, (and even learn how to cook like the lo- crunchy and silky, fried and steamed, soup cals). Then hit glorious An Bang Beach, and salad. Wherever you are, you’ll find wander along the riverside and bike the exquisite local specialities – the ‘white back roads. Yes, Hoi An (p203) has it all. rose’ of Hoi An, the canh chua (a fish and vegetable soup) of the Mekong Delta or the good ol’ pho of the north. MEOGIAPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES © IAIN BAGWELL/LONELY PLANET ©

10 Phong Nha-Ke Bang Halong Bay National Park 4 Halong Bay’s (p107) stunning com- 3 With hills shrouded in rainforest, and bination of karst limestone peaks mountain rivers coursing through ra- and sheltered, shimmering seas is one of vines, above ground the Phong Nha-Ke Bang Vietnam’s top tourist draws, but with more region (p162) is one of Vietnam’s most spec- than 2000 different islands, there’s plenty tacular national parks. Head underground of superb scenery to go around. Definitely for proof that this area should be part of any book an overnight cruise and make time for Vietnamese itinerary. A fortunate selec- your own special moments on this World tion of travellers can experience Hang Son Heritage wonder – rise early for an ethereal Doong, the world’s largest cave, but more misty dawn, or pilot a kayak into grottoes accessible are the ziplining and kayaking and lagoons. If you’re hankering for more thrills of Hang Toi, and the ethereal beauty of karst action, move on to the less touristy Paradise Cave. Hang En (p163) but equally spectacular Lan Ha Bay. KEVIN BOUTWELL/500PX © 3 PL A N YO U R TRI P V I E T N A M ’ S T O P 2 0

SKIP NALL/GETTY IMAGES © 11ROBERT MUCKLEY/GETTY IMAGES © PL A N YO U R TRI P V I E T N A M ’ S T O P 2 0 45 6 THUC NGUYEN/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES © Ho Chi Minh City Hue 5 Increasingly international but still 6 The capital of the nation for 150 years unmistakably Vietnamese, the former in the 19th and early 20th centuries, Saigon’s visceral energy will delight big- Hue (p174) is perhaps the easiest Viet- city devotees. HCMC (p311) doesn’t in- namese city to love and spend time in. spire neutrality: you’ll either be drawn into Its situation on the banks of the Perfume its thrilling vortex and hypnotised by the River is sublime, its complex cuisine justifi- perpetual whir of its orbiting motorbikes, ably famous, and its streets are relatively or you’ll find the whole experience over- traffic free. And that’s without the majesty whelming. Dive in and you’ll be rewarded of the Hue Citadel, its royal residences with a wealth of history, delicious food and and elegant temples, formidable walled a vibrant nightlife that sets the standard defences and gateways to explore. On the for Vietnam. The heat is always on in Sai- city’s fringes are some of Vietnam’s most gon; loosen your collar and enjoy. impressive pagodas and royal tombs, many in wonderful natural settings.

12 PL A N YO U R TRI P V I E T N A M ’ S T O P 2 0 MINHHUE/SHUTTERSTOCK © 7 8 VUCONGDANH/GETTY IMAGES © Hanoi Extreme North 7 Ancient but dynamic, the nation’s 8 The extreme north of Vietnam is all capital hurtles toward modernity, cau- about raw adventure travel. Ha Giang tiously embracing visitors. Sample Hanoi’s province (p148) is Vietnam’s spectacular (p54) heady mix of history and ambition by emerging destination for the intrepid, with wandering the streets of the Old Quarter, dizzying ascents up the Quan Ba Pass sipping drip-coffee, slurping on a hearty (Heaven’s Gate), towering karsts and gran- bowl of bun rieu cua (hearty crab broth) ite outcrops, and jaw-dropping vistas on and scoring souvenirs for next to nothing. the epic trip between Dong Van and Meo When you’re done, check out the crum- Vac. And with improved roads, new trek- bling decadence of the French Quarter king routes, minority markets and a wider then zip up to cosmopolitan Tay Ho for choice of guesthouses, Vietnam’s final finer dining and the lowdown on Hanoi’s frontier – now a Unesco-listed geopark – is burgeoning art scene. really opening up. Ha Giang province (p148)

DELTAOFF/GETTY IMAGES © 13 PL A N YO U R TRI P V I E T N A M ’ S T O P 2 0 9 10 STEPHEN STUDD/GETTY IMAGES © Phu Quoc Island Markets 9 Lapped by azure waters and edged 10 From the floating markets of the with the kind of white-sand beaches Mekong Delta, souvenir-rich streets that make sun seekers sink to their weak of Hoi An, urban affairs of Ho Chi Minh City knees, Phu Quoc (p389) – way down in the and the tribal gatherings in the highlands, south of Vietnam – is ideal for slipping into Vietnamese markets are a riot of colour low gear, reaching for a seaside cocktail and commerce. For photographers, mar- and toasting a blood-orange sun as it dips kets are ideal for getting shots of Vietnam- into the sea. And if you want to notch it up ese villagers and their perfectly arranged a tad, grab a motorbike and hit the red-dirt pyramids of fruit or glistening seafood dis- roads: the island’s the size of Singapore. plays. The region around the town of Bac Ha (p145) is particularly market-rich and should not be missed if you’re anywhere in the north. Lacquered bowls, Bac Ha Market (p145)

14 PL A N YO U R TRI P V ietnam ’ s T op 2 0 Con Dao Islands Cat Tien National Park 11 The furious energy that character- 12 An accessible and impressive ises Vietnamese cities can be intoxi- protected area, Cat Tien (p298) cating, but when you need an urban detox, lies conveniently midway between Ho Chi these idyllic tropical islands make the per- Minh City and Dalat. It is set on a bend in fect escape. Once hell on earth for a gener- the Dong Nai River, and there is something ation of political prisoners, Con Dao (p279) vaguely Apocalypse Now about arriving is now a heavenly destination of remote here. Popular activities include trekking, beaches, pristine dive sites and diverse cycling and wildlife spotting: the Wild Gib- nature. It’s a wonderful place to explore by bon Trek is a must. The park is also home bike in search of that dream beach, while to a primate centre, where gibbons and the main settlement of Con Son is one of langurs are coaxed back into their natural Vietnam’s most charming towns. environment. Bar-bellied Pitta 11 CUONGVND/GETTY IMAGES © 12 FEATHERCOLLECTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ALEXEYBORODIN/GETTY IMAGES © ANDREW BAIN/GETTY IMAGES © 15PL A N YO U R TRI P V ietnam ’ s T op 2 0 13 14 15 INGRAM PUBLISHING/GETTY IMAGES © Coffee Time Dalat Ba Be National Park 13 Starbucks may 14 Dalat (p289) is have opened its the queen of the 15 Detour off the regu- first branch here in 2013, southwest highlands and lar Vietnam tourist but in Vietnam, coffee has been popular with trail in Ba Be National Park culture (p469) runs deep. international tourists since (p102), an essential des- Virtually every neighbour- the days of the French tination for adventurous hood in every town (and colonialists. Grand Gallic travellers, with towering most villages) will have a villas are dotted amid pine limestone mountains, little cafe where locals go groves and the whole town plunging valleys and ever- to de-stress from the of- is centred on a pretty lake, green forests. Waterfalls, fice, the family or simply with numerous nearby caves and lakes combine in the traffic (most are lo- waterfalls adding to its a landscape that sustains cated on quiet side streets natural appeal. Dalat is over 550 different plants with copious greenery also fast becoming one of and hundreds of different to promote relaxation). Vietnam’s key adventure- bird and animal species. Vietnamese coffee can be sport hubs, with abseiling, Explore Ba Be’s natural served hot or iced (a real canyoning, mountain- spectacle by boat or on treat in summer), either biking, hiking and rafting trekking and mountain- treacle-thick, or with milk all on off er. The temperate biking excursions, before (usually sweetened and climate here will be quite a relaxing and recharging in condensed) for a double- relief if you’ve been suffer- the rustic homestays and whammy caffeine-sugar ing in Saigon. village guesthouses of the kick. local Tay ethnic minority.

16 17 16 18 PL A N YO U R TRI P V ietnam ’ s T op 2 0 NIGEL KILLEEN/GETTY IMAGES © CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON/GETTY IMAGES © MRSIXINTHEMIX/GETTY IMAGES © Battle Sites Mui Ne Bia Hoi 16 In the centre of Viet- 17 Perhaps the adven- 18 One of the great nam, the Demilita- ture sport epicentre pleasures of travel- rised Zone (DMZ; p169) has of Vietnam, the relaxed, ling in Vietnam, bia hoi – the greatest concentration prosperous beach resort fresh draught beer (p84) – is of battle sites from the of Mui Ne (p265) is a kite- brewed daily, without ad- American War (and some surfing capital with world- ditives or preservatives, excellent tour operators class wind and conditions, to be drunk within hours. to get you around them). and excellent schools for Incredibly cheap and wide- Down south the Cu Chi professional training. For ly available, bia hoi is said Tunnels are a very popular those who prefer dry land, to have been introduced day trip from Ho Chi Minh sandboarding and golf to Hanoi by Czech brewers City, while there are numer- are popular alternatives. over 40 years ago. Every ous war sites around Vung The resort itself has more town has a bia hoi place, Tau, which was a big AN- than 20km of palm-fringed often with a street terrace, ZAC base. In the far north, beachfront that stretches offering a very local experi- Dien Bien Phu should not invitingly along the shores ence. Park (or attempt to be missed: there’s a good of the South China Sea. park) your rear on one of new museum here to ex- From guesthouses to bou- the tiny plastic stools and plain the significance of tique resorts, boho bars to get stuck in. Snacks to eat the battle that precipitated fine-value spas, Mui Ne has are often sold too. the French expulsion from a broad appeal. Indochina. Hien Luong Bridge over the Ben Hai River (p171), DMZ

17 Sapa Trekking Temples of Angkor PL A N YO U R TRI P V ietnam ’ s T op 2 0 19 Undulating rice terraces cascade 20 Over the border in Cambodia, the down to valleys inhabited by Hmong, temples of Angkor (p426) form Red Dzao and Giay villages. Up above, the one of the world’s most magnificent sights. sinuous ridges of the Hoang Lien Mountains Choose from Angkor Wat itself, the world’s (dubbed the Tonkinese Alps by the French) largest religious building; Bayon, with its touch the sky. Brushed with every shade immense stone faces; or Ta Prohm, where of green in the palette, the countryside nature runs amok. Siem Reap is the base surrounding Sapa (p136) is a showcase of for exploring Angkor and is a buzzing des- northern Vietnam’s most superb rural vis- tination with a superb selection of restau- tas and a fascinating glimpse into the coun- rants and bars. Beyond the temples await try’s astounding cultural diversity. This is activities like quad biking and ziplining, and prime territory for digging out your walking cultured pursuits such as cooking classes boots and hitting the trails. and birdwatching. Angkor Thom (p427) 19 CHAN SRITHAWEEPORN/GETTY IMAGES © 20 BARTOSZ HADYNIAK/GETTY IMAGES ©

1 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p477) Currency When to Go Dong (d) Warm to hot summers, mild winters Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons Language Sapa # Vietnamese GO Mar–May & Sep–Nov Visas # Hanoi GO Mar–May & Sep–Nov Complicated and fast-changing: some # Danang nationalities need a visa GO Mar–Sep in advance for all visits, some don’t (for 15-day # Ho Chi Minh City stays). GO Nov–Feb Money High Season Shoulder Low Season (Jul & Aug) (Dec–Mar) (Apr–Jun, Sep–Nov) ATMs can be found throughout the country, ¨¨Prices increase ¨¨During the Tet ¨¨Perhaps the best even in small towns, by up to 50% by the festival, the whole time to tour the though charges for coast; book hotels country is on the whole nation. withdrawls can be quite well in advance. move and prices rise. ¨¨Typhoons can steep. In general cash is ¨¨All Vietnam, ¨¨North of Nha lash the central and king in Vietnam, though except the far north, Trang can get cool northern coastline credit and debit cards is hot and humid, weather. Expect cold until November. can be used in many with the summer conditions in the very hotels. monsoon bringing far north. downpours. ¨¨In the south, clear Mobile Phones skies and sunshine are the norm. To avoid roaming charges, local SIM cards can be used in most European, Asian and Australian (and many North American) phones. Time Vietnam is seven hours ahead of GMT/UTC.

19 Useful Websites Daily Costs Arriving in PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K no w Vietnam Vietnam Coracle (http:// Budget: vietnamcoracle.com) Excellent Less than US$40 Tan Son Nhat International independent travel advice from ¨¨Glass of bia hoi: from Airport (Ho Chi Minh City; a long-term resident. US$0.50 p357) Taxis to central districts Thanh Nien News (www.thanh ¨¨One hour on a local bus: (around 190,000d) take about niennews.com) Government- US$1–1.50 30 minutes. There’s also an approved news, but includes ¨¨Cheap hotel: US$10–15 a air-conditioned Route 152 bus diverse and interesting content. night, dorms less (6000d, every 15 minutes, 6am Lonely Planet (www.lonely ¨¨Local meal of noodles: to 6pm, around 40 minutes). planet.com/vietnam) Destina- US$1.50–2.50 Noi Bai Airport (Hanoi; tion information, hotel bookings, p94) Taxis to the centre cost traveller forum and more. Midrange: 400,000d and take around The Word (www.wordhcmc.com) US$40–100 50 minutes. Jetstar shuttles Based in HCMC, this magazine ¨¨Comfortable double room: (35,000d) and Vietnam Airlines has excellent coverage. US$25–50 minibuses (50,000d) run hourly. Vietnam Online (www.vietnam ¨¨Meal in a smart restaurant: The Route 17 public bus to Long online.com) Good all-rounder. from US$8 Bien bus station is 5000d. Rusty Compass (www. ¨¨One-hour massage: rustycompass.com) Useful US$6–20 Getting Around online travel guide. ¨¨Ten-minute taxi ride: US$4 Buses are the main mode of Important Top End: transport for locals in Vietnam, Numbers More than US$100 but travellers tend to prefer ¨¨Luxury hotel room: from planes, trains and automobiles. To call Vietnam from outside the US$80 Train Reasonably priced country, drop the initial 0 from ¨¨Gourmet restaurant: from and comfortable enough in the area code. Mobile numbers US$20 air-conditioned carriages (and begin with %09 or %01. ¨¨Internal flight: US$30–100 sleepers). But note there are no real express trains. Country Code %84 Opening Hours Plane Cheap if you book ahead %00 and the network is pretty com- International Hours vary very little throughout prehensive. However, cancella- Access Code %116 the year. tions are not unknown. Banks 8am to 3pm weekdays, to Car Very useful for travelling Directory %113 11.30am Saturday at your own pace or for visiting Assistance %1080 Offices and museums 7am or regions with minimal public 8am to 5pm or 6pm; museums transport. Cars always come Police generally close on Monday and with a driver. some take a lunch break Bus On the main highways General Restaurants 11.30am to 9pm services are very frequent, Information Shops 8am to 6pm although it’s not a particularly Service Temples and pagodas 5am relaxing way to travel. In the to 9pm sticks things deteriorate rapidly. Exchange Rates Open-tour buses are very inex- pensive and worth considering. Australia A$1 16,041d Canada C$1 17,005d For much more on Euro €1 24,495d getting around, Japan ¥100 18,640d see p491 New NZ$1 17,676d Zealand UK £1 34,341d US US$1 22,316d For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd First Time Vietnam For more information, see Survival Guide (p477) Checklist Top Tips for Your Trip ¨¨Check out the visa ¨¨Prepare yourself for the crazy driving: traffic can come at you situation; you may need to every which way, and in the cities swarms of motorbikes reach apply in advance biblical proportions. Try to keep calm and consider arranging a ¨¨Make sure your passport massage after a long journey. is valid for at least six months ¨¨Be aware that Vietnam has more than its fair share of scams; past your arrival date most concern overcharging. Though very rare, there are some more ¨¨Check your immunisation serious dangers (like unexploded ordnance) to also be aware of. history ¨¨In towns like Hue and Sapa, and beaches popular with tourists, ¨¨Arrange appropriate travel expect plenty of hustle from street vendors, cyclo (pedicab cycle insurance rickshaw) drivers and the like. Off the beaten track there’s little or ¨¨Pre-book internal flights no hassle. and trains ¨¨Load your bargaining head before you arrive. ¨¨Inform your debit-/credit- card company What to Wear What to Pack There are no serious cultural concerns about wearing inap- propriate clothing in Vietnam. In religious buildings and ¨¨Good footwear – Vietnam’s government offices (or if attending a formal dinner), legs streets are bumpy and lumpy should be covered and sleeveless tops avoided. ¨¨Mosquito repellent with DEET Yes, Vietnam is in the tropics, but visit anywhere north of ¨¨Rain jacket Hoi An between October and March and it can be cool, so ¨¨Electrical adapter pack some layers (a fleece or two). The rest of the year, and ¨¨Torch (flashlight) in the south, flip-flops or sandals, a T-shirt and shorts are ¨¨Flip-flops or sandals likely to be your daily uniform. ¨¨Binoculars Sleeping Tourism is booming in Vietnam so it’s usually best to book your accommodation a day or two in advance, or several weeks ahead in the high season (the Tet holiday, July to August, and around Christmas). ¨¨Hotels Range from simple functional minihotels to uber-luxurious spa resorts. ¨¨Hostels Popular in the main tourism centres, but rare elsewhere. ¨¨Guesthouses Usually family-run and less formal than hotels.

21 Tours PL A N YO U R TRI P F irst T ime V ietnam Vietnam can be a culture SOFT_LIGHT/GETTY IMAGES © shock for many travellers. Taking a tour can really help you understand the nation better. Cities includ- ing Hanoi, Hoi An, Danang and Nha Trang have street food tours, while motorbike tours are also very popular. Bargaining Enjoy stunning views over Vietnam’s verdant bays Bargaining is essential Etiquette in Vietnam, but not for everything. Sharpen your ¨¨Meals When dining with Vietnamese people, it’s customary for haggling skills when shop- the most senior diner to pay for everyone. ping in marketplaces and ¨¨Homes Remove your shoes when entering a private house. in some small shops (that ¨¨Heads Don’t pat or touch an adult (or child) on the head. sell souvenirs and the like), ¨¨Feet Avoid pointing your feet at people or sacred objects. and when arranging local transport like cyclos and xe Eating om (motorbike taxi). It’s rarely necessary to reserve a table in advance in Viet- Many hotels will also of- nam. Exceptions include national park restaurants and fer a discount if you ask for upmarket, select places in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. one. In restaurants, prices ¨¨Local restaurants Vietnamese restaurants tend to have are fixed. purely functional decor and even look scruffy, but if they’re busy the food will usually be fresh and delicious. Some bus drivers try to ¨¨International restaurants In tourist areas many restaurants overcharge foreigners. Bar- serve up Western and Asian food. Often the local food is toned gain if you’re certain the down and not that authentic. fare is overpriced. ¨¨Street food Pavement kitchens offer cheap, often incredibly tasty, local grub. Tipping ¨¨Cafes May have a snack or two available, but rarely meals. ¨¨Hotels Not expected. Leave a small gratuity for cleaning staff if you like. ¨¨Restaurants Not expected; 5% to 10% in smart restaurants or if you’re very satisfied. Locals don’t tip. ¨¨Guides A few dollars on day trips is sufficient, more for longer trips if the service is good. ¨¨Taxis Not necessary, but a little extra is appreciated, especially at night. ¨¨Bars Never expected. Language English is not widely spoken in Vietnam. In the tourist areas, most staff in hotels and restaurants will speak a lit- tle, but communication problems are very common. A few key phrases of Vietnamese go a long way.

22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd What’s New Bai Xep Lotte Tower, Hanoi A cool beach scene is developing fast on The best place to gauge the voracity of this lovely bay south of Quy Nhon, now Hanoi’s growth relative to the Old Quarter home to three great beachside guesthouses. is from the observation deck of this spec- (p238) tacular new landmark; it’s also home to myriad bars and restaurants. (p71) More Cave Trips Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park con- Mui Ne Backpacker Village tinues to be an essential destination. New Travellers have never had it so good with trips include the exciting zipline, swim- the opening of this chic new pool-blessed ming and kayaking combo to Hang Toi hostel just a few steps from the beach. (Dark Cave) and the subterranean wonders (p269) of Hang Va. (p162) Con Dao Cafe Scene Villa Vista New places including Bar200 Con Dao This intimate hilltop mansion with am- (p285) and Infinity Cafe & Lounge (p285) phitheatrical views of Dalat has lashings have injected life and a little cosmopolitan of 19th-century French opulence. It’s un- elan to sleepy old Con Son town. doubtedly the southwest highlands’ most atmospheric stay. (p294) Aqua Expeditions This sleek, waterborne five-star hotel, Craft Beer in Ho Chi Minh City complete with deckside pool and gourmet Pasteur Street Brewing Company (p347) in- meals, traverses the Mekong Delta’s water- fuses local ingredients like lemongrass and ways in style. (p376) Dalat coffee; travelling hopheads will find more local brews at BiaCraft (p351) in Sai- Amanoi gon’s emerging District 2 neighbourhood. Built into the cliffs on a gorgeous stretch of coastline, this uber-luxurious resort Vespa Adventures has drop-dead gorgeous pavilions and a There’s no better way to explore the rural tip-top spa, and offers real tranquility and lanes, craft villages and riverside scenery relaxation. (p265) around Hoi An than on the back of a vintage scooter. This new outfit has great SUP, Cat Ba Island tours. (p212) Stand-up paddleboarding has hit Cat Ba Is- land with all-new SUP tours of Lan Ha Bay Dien Bien Phu Museum being pioneered by Asia Outdoors. (p116) The important collection commemorating the seminal 1954 battle has found a new For more recommendations and home in this upgraded, modern museum reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/ building, designed to showcase the exhib- vietnam its at their best. (p133)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23 If You Like… Fine Dining Hang Da Check out the base- My Son The most impressive ment of this lesser-known Hanoi Cham site; the hilltop location is Hoi An Try unique regional market for recycled threads. very special too. (p224) specialities, then take a cooking (p89) Hanoi Come face-to-face with course. (p215) Dong Ba Market Cross the history in Ho Chi Minh’s austere Ho Chi Minh City Gourmet Perfume River in Hue to the mausoleum. (p64) restaurants, to-die-for Vietnam- compelling sensory overload of Cao Dai Great Temple A ese eateries and international this market. (p186) magnificent hybrid of Chinese cuisine. (p340) temple, mosque and cathedral Hue Famous for its complex im- Remote & Hidden near HCMC. (p363) perial cuisine tradition. (p184) Cholon Discover the Chinese Pots ‘n Pans Innovative Viet- Ha Giang Crammed with jaw- heritage of HCMC amid gilded fusion cuisine in a chic Hanoi dropping scenery, this rugged and incense-infused temples. setting. (p83) area abuts China. (p148) (p324) Ganh Hao Dine by the water’s Tam Hai Island Idyllic isle that Vo Thi Sau Evocative Con Son edge at this outstanding Vung features a whale graveyard, resting place of a national Tau seafood restaurant. (p277) Cham ruins and no crowds. heroine. (p281) Hill Station Signature (p235) Restaurant The traditional Pirate Island Descendants of Beautiful Beaches flavours of the Hmong. (p141) pirates take you night-fishing for Bassac Restaurant Interna- squid. (p403) Phu Quoc Island Picture- tional classics meet delicate HCMC Tours Sample food from perfect white crescents and Vietnamese dishes. (p408) the backstreets and dig out the sandy bays sheltered by rocky city’s hidden pockets. (p333) headlands. (p389) Markets Ganh Da Dia Coastline boasting Con Dao Islands We suggest empty beaches, lonely fishing a self-imposed exile of at least Bac Ha Head north to one of villages and impressive sand three nights. (p279) the most colourful markets in dunes. (p241) Mui Ne Squeaky sands along Southeast Asia. (p145) Phu Dien This small Cham tem- the shore, towering sand dunes Mekong Delta’s Floating ple was buried in sand dunes for nearby and empty beaches up Markets Catch the delta water­ centuries. (p191) the coast. (p265) world’s river markets, selling An Bang Ride a bicycle from Hoi everything from durian to dog Tombs & Temples An to An Bang’s combo of sun, meat. (p383) sand and seafood. (p220) Ben Thanh Market HCMC’s Hue Vietnamese emperors Nha Trang Flop on the inviting central market is a hive of constructed dazzling monu- sands, then explore the bay’s activity. (p352) ments around this city. Don’t islands by boat. (p247) miss Tu Duc (p187) and Minh Mang (p188).

PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y o u L ik e …24 BRUNO DE HOGUES/GETTY IMAGES © Road Trips Mai Pi Leng Pass Negotiate this mountainous route from Dong Van to Meo Vac, cut through a narrow pass. (p151) Highway 6 Rural vistas of paddy- field patchworks and rolling hills between Mai Chau and Son La. (p129) Hue to Hoi An Travel by motor­ cycle taking in the Hai Van Pass and China Beach. (p193) Ho Chi Minh Highway Light on traffic, big on scenery and ideal for cyclists. (p304) Spectacular Treks SANTIAGO URQUIJO/GETTY IMAGES © Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Hike through pristine moun- tain and valley trails, or to the world’s largest cave. (p162) Sapa Join Hmong guides to ex- plore the ethnic minority villages around Sapa. (p136) Yok Don National Park Trek and camp in the hope of spotting wild elephants. (p303) Cuc Phuong National Park Hike through wildlife-rich forests and up to tribal villages. (p160) Quirky Tipples Top: Citadel (p175), Hue Bottom: Flower Hmong women, Bac Ha Market (p145) Highland homebrew Head to Sapa (p136) or Bac Ha (p145) markets to knock back hill-tribe rice and corn wines. Pasteur Street Brewing Company Lemongrass and Phu Quoc peppercorns are both used in the excellent Saigon Saison beer. (p347) K’Ho Coffee Locally roasted coffee grown by K’Ho minority farmers at an 1860s coffee farm. (p292) Quan Ly Sample traditional ruou (rice wine) liquor in this atmos- pheric watering hole. (p86)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25 Month by Month TOP EVENTS conditions. Conversely, Ma Thuot plays host to Tet, January–February sunny hot days are the norm an annual coffee festival. Hue Festival, April in the southern provinces. Growers, grinders, blenders (Biennial) and addicts rub shoulders Wandering Souls Day, z Tet (Tet in the city’s main park, August and local entertainment is Danang Fireworks Nguyen Dan) provided. Festival, April The Big One! Falling in late Buddha’s Birth, January or early February, 3 Saigon Enlightenment and Vietnamese Lunar New Death, May Year is like Christmas, Cyclo Challenge New Year and birthdays On your marks…get pedal- January all rolled into one. Travel ling. Ho Chi Minh City’s is difficult at this time, as fastest rickshaw drivers Winter temperatures can transport is booked up and battle it out in their three- be bitterly cold in the far many businesses close. wheeled chariots to raise north, with snow possible. funds for charity. Takes The further south you go, z Quang Trung place in mid-March every the milder the weather. Tet year. celebrations occur at the Wrestling competitions, end of the month (or in lion dances and human April February). chess take place in Hanoi on the fifth day of the first Generally an excellent time z Dalat lunar month at Dong Da to cover the nation, as Mound, site of the uprising the winter monsoon rains Flower Festival against the Chinese led should have subsided and Held early in the month, by Emperor Quang Trung there are some excellent this is always a wonderful (Nguyen Hué) in 1788. festivals. Flights are usually occasion, with huge elabo- moderately priced (unless rate displays. It’s become March Easter falls in this month). an international event, with music and fashion shows Grey skies and cool z Holiday of the and a wine festival. temperatures can affect anywhere north of Hoi An, Dead (Thanh Minh) February but towards the end of the It’s time to honour the month the thermometer ancestors with a visit to North of Danang, chilly starts to rise. Down south, graves of deceased rela- ‘Chinese winds’ usually the dry season is ending. tives to tidy up and sweep mean grey, overcast tombstones. Offerings of z Buon Ma Thuot flowers, food and paper are presented. It’s held on the Coffee Festival first three days of the third Caffeine cravers should moon. make for the highlands during March, as Buon

26 PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month AOSHIVN/GETTY IMAGES © z Hue Festival (Biennial) Vietnam’s biggest cultural event (www.huefestival. com) is held every two years, with events in 2016 and 2018. Most of the art, theatre, music, circus and dance performances are held inside Hue’s Citadel. z Danang Fireworks Festival Danang’s riverside explodes with sound, light and col- our during this spectacular event, which features com- peting pyrotechnic teams from the USA, China, Eu- rope and Vietnam. Held in the last week of the month. May PHAM LE HUONG SON/GETTY IMAGES © A fine time to tour the Top: Danang Fireworks Festival centre and north, with Bottom: Dragon parade at Tet (Tet Nguyen Dan) a good chance of clear skies and warm days. Sea temperatures are warming up nicely and it’s a pretty quiet month for tourism. z Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment and Death (Phong Sinh) A big celebration at Bud- dhist temples with street processions, and lanterns used to decorate pagodas. Complexes including Chua Bai Dinh (p158) near Ninh Binh and HCMC’s Jade Emperor Pagoda (p318) host lavish celebrations. Fifteenth day of the fourth lunar month. z Nha Trang Sea Festival Falls at the end of May (and the beginning of June) and includes a street festival, photography exhibitions, embroidery displays and kite-flying competitions.

z Cham 27 June corn and dragon dance pro- New Year (Kate) PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month cessions are enacted, and This is celebrated at Po A great time to tour children are fully involved Klong Garai Cham Tow- Vietnam as it’s just before in the celebrations. ers in Thap Cham on the the peak domestic season. seventh month of the Cham Humidity can be punishing September calendar. The festival at this time of year, so plan commemorates ancestors, to spend some time by the Excellent time to tour the Cham national heroes and coast. whole nation. The coastal deities, such as the farm- resorts are less crowded ers’ goddess Po Ino Nagar. z Summer Solstice and there are fewer people (p263) on the move. Temperatures Day (Tet Doan Ngo) and humidity levels drop. z Khmer Oc Keep epidemics at bay with offerings to the spir- z Vietnam National Bom Boc Festival its, ghosts and the God The Mekong Delta’s Khmer of Death on the fifth day Day (Sep 2) community celebrates on of the fifth moon. Sticky Big parades and events are the 15th day of the 10th rice wine (ruou nep) is held across Vietnam on moon of the lunar calendar consumed in industrial September 2. Celebrated (late October or November) quantities. with a rally and fireworks with colourful boat races at at Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi Ba Dong Beach in Tra Vinh August (in front of Ho Chi Minh’s province and on the Soc Mausoleum) and there are Trang River. The peak month for also boat races on Hoan tourism with domestic and Kiem Lake. December international tourists. Book flights and accommodation October The month begins quietly, well ahead. Weather-wise but from mid-December it’s hot, hot, hot. A good time to visit the the popular tourist resorts far north, with a strong get increasingly busy. Book z Wandering Souls chance of clear skies and well ahead to secure a mild temperatures. Winter room over the Christmas Day (Trung Nguyen) winds and rain begin to break. Steamy in the south, Second in the pecking affect the centre, but down but can get chilly up north. order to Tet is this ancient south it’s often dry. Vietnamese tradition. Huge z Christmas Day spreads of food are left out z Mid-Autumn for lost spirits who, it’s be- (Giang Sinh) lieved, wander the earth on Festival (Trung Thu) Not a national holiday, but this day. Held on the 15th A fine time for foodies, is celebrated throughout day of the seventh moon. with moon cakes of sticky Vietnam, particularly by rice filled with lotus seeds, the sizeable Catholic popu- z Children’s (or watermelon seeds, peanuts, lation. It’s a special time to the yolks of duck eggs, be in places such as Phat Mid-Autumn) Festival, raisins and other treats. It’s Diem and HCMC, where Hoi An celebrated across the na- thousands attend midnight This is a big event in Hoi tion on the 15th day of the Mass. An and Hanoi, when eighth moon and can fall in citizens celebrate the full September or October. moon, eat mooncakes and beat drums. The lion, uni-

28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Plan Your Trip MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET © Itineraries MYANMAR HANOI CHINA (BURMA) _# #• Halong Bay É LAOS THAILAND É #÷ Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP SCOHUI NT HA É SEA •#Hue •# Hoi An #• My Son CAMBODIA #ÙDoc Let Beach •# Nha Trang Cu Chi •# É Tunnels •# Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) 2WEEKS From South to North Making the most of Vietnam’s to discover wartime history at the Cu Chi spectacular coastline, this route hugs Tunnels. the shore and is bookended by the country’s two greatest cities. You’ll have Then it’s a plane, train or bus trip up the ample opportunity to indulge in some coast to the big brash resort of Nha Trang serious beach time, and be able to hit for a couple of days by the sea. Party people the cultural sights. Consider taking an will love the city’s hedonistic bar scene, internal flight or two to save time. while spa lovers can indulge in a gooey, blissful session in one of the area’s three The adventure begins in the cauldron mud bath resorts. Nha Trang’s beach is a of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City fine one, but for a less-developed base head (HCMC). Spend two days hitting the mar- up to the largely-undeveloped coastline kets, browsing museums and eating some to the north, where you’ll find Doc Let of the globe’s best cuisine. Take a daytrip Beach, or south to the near-infinite sands of Bai Dai beach.

29 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Halong Bay (p107) Cultured charmer and culinary mecca caving region, with towering limestone Hoi An is the next essential stop. This mountains and cobalt jungle rivers. town certainly warrants three days, such is its allure. Spend a couple of days enjoy- Next it’s a long journey by road or ing Hoi An’s unique ambience, touring the train towards Halong Bay, with more town’s temples, pagodas and museums, than 2000 limestone outcrops dotting and feasting on delectable Central Viet- the ocean. Budget for at least a couple namese cuisine. Consider a motorbike trip of days in Hanoi to sample its evocative around the town’s rural hinterland, or an Old Quarter and to view the city’s elegant excursion to the terrific Cham ruins of My architecture and memorable museums. Son. Then it’s on to the old imperial capi- Make the most of your last day, perhaps tal of Hue for a night to explore its citadel, munching street food and sampling bia tombs and pagodas. From here head up hoi (draught beer). to the truly remarkable Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, the world’s greatest

30 ÉCHINADong Van #••# Meo VacCHINA ÉÉ #•Cao Bang É PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Bac Ha É É •# ÉSapa É#•É É É ÷# É Ba Be ÉNational Park VIETNAM •# Dien Bien Phu Son La #• #_ HANOI LAOS #• Mai Chau

31 WALTER BIBIKOW/GETTY IMAGES © 3WEEKS Northern Mountains Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself: a PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries land of brooding mountains, overwhelming LYNN GAIL/GETTY IMAGES © beauty and a mosaic of ethnic minorities. It’s ideal terrain to cover on two wheels, with light traffic and breathtaking views, though, with a patient attitude, most of the region can be tackled by public transport. Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai Chau, home to the White Thai people, for your first two nights; it’s a perfect introduction to ethnic minority life. Northwest, where the road begins to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical over- night stop is Son La. Continue on for two nights at Dien Bien Phu, a name that resonates with history as it was here that the French colonial story ended in defeat. Tour the military sights and impres- sive new museum then continue north through stunning scenery up the Tram Ton Pass. Sapa is the premier destination in the north- west, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day!), and an amazing array of minority peoples. Explore the area on two feet or two wheels for around four days before heading to Bac Ha for three nights to experience the best of the region’s markets. Most colourful are the Flower Hmong people. From Bac Ha, move east to Ha Giang prov- ince, taking it slowly through stunning scenery and towns including Yen Minh, Dong Van and Meo Vac. Explore remote destinations like the Lung Cu flag tower and the Vuong Palace from Dong Van. Onwards towards the vertiginous Mai Pi Leng Pass and Meo Vac, there’s no pub- lic transport (so you’ll need to hire a xe om (mo- torbike taxi) or car). The route then loops down to the riverside junction town of Bao Lac. Local buses run from Bao Lac to Cao Bang and on to Ba Be National Park. Spend about three nights around Ba Be, staying at local Tay ethnic minority homestays, and exploring the park by trekking or kayaking. From Ba Be travel back to Cao Bang for the trip back south to Hanoi. Top: Dien Bien Phu (p131) Bottom: Flower Hmong women at Bac Ha Market (p145)

32 HAIMINHDUONG/GETTY IMAGES © 2WEEKS Deep South PHAMSONPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES © This itinerary takes in a lovely offshore island, the nation’s main watersport centre and a waterworld of floating villages. If tropical sunsets and white-sand beaches are high on your agenda it’s probably best not to plan this trip during the southern rainy season. There’s frequent public transport to virtually all the main centres. After a couple of days enjoying the urban de- lights and compelling energy of HCMC, head into the Mekong Delta, stopping at Ben Tre to explore canal-side lanes by bike and islands by boat. Then hop on board a cargo ship for a slow, scenic journey to Tra Vinh and take in the town’s colourful pagodas. Next it’s a short trip to Can Tho where it’s worth lingering a couple of days to visit the bustling floating markets, the city museum and a temple or two. Further north, by the Cambodian border, Chau Doc is surrounded by beautiful countryside, begging for two-wheeled trips. Head to Phu Quoc Island for three days of well-earned beachtime on some of Vietnam’s best sandy shores. From Phu Quoc, fly (or bus it) back to HCMC, then head north into the Southcentral High- lands via a night in Cat Tien National Park, home to gibbons, crocodiles and bountiful bird- life. Next up it’s the romantic hill station of Dalat for a tour of its quirky sights, and the opportunity to get stuck into some adventure sports like canyoning, mountain biking or kayaking. The road trip from Dalat down to Mui Ne is one of the nation’s finest, negotiating highland ridges and plunging through valleys and pine forests; it’s ideally done on the back of a motor- bike (consider hiring an Easy Rider). You can then rest up by the beach in Mui Ne for two or three days, a tropical idyll with towering sand dunes and a laid-back vibe – or for those with the stamina, get stuck into some crazy kitesurf- ing or a sailing course. Round the trip off in style with a night in HCMC, perhaps with an ale or two at the Paster Street Brewing Company and dining out some- where really special like the Racha Room. Top: Dinh Cau Beach, Phu Quoc Island (p389) Bottom: Temple in Tra Vinh (p373)

33 #• Dalat Cat Tien ÷# National Park CAMBODIA É É É É É É Mui Ne#• #• Chau Doc–# Ben Tre#• •# É Ho Chi ÉÉ Minh City É (Saigon) #• Phu Quoc •# •# Can Tho Tra Vinh SCOHSUEI NAT HA

34PL A N YO U R TRI P O F F T H E B EATEN TRA C K Mekong Off the Beaten Track: Vietnam 0 200 km 0 120 miles CHINA DONG VAN DONG VAN Lao Ha Giang Nanning Use this sleepy Ha Giang town as a Cai hub for trekking, visiting local SINHO Sapa markets and exploring remote attractions such as Lung Cu and the MYANMAR Yen Bai Lang Vuong Palace. (p150) (BURMA) Son Tay Trang Mong Cai Son La HANOI Halong Bai Tu Zhanjiang City Long Bay BAI HUONG LAOS HOA BINH Hai Halong Duong Bay Take part in a homestay in this beautifully situated fishing village in SINHO Na Meo the Cham Islands, just a short boat ride from the tourist mecca of Hoi An. Travel by motorbike to the remote Thanh Hoa (p223) mountain village of Sinho, or unravel Nam Can the intricacies of public transport in Hainan Island northwestern Vietnam. (p135) Gulf of (China) Vinh Tonkin TAM HAI ISLAND Cau Ha Tinh Treo Enjoy the serenity in tiny Tam Hai, HANG EN CAVE home to fine beaches, Cham ruins and a whale cemetery (p235) Visit this spectacular cave deep inside River Cha Lo Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park on Tha Khaek Dong Hoi a park-ranger-led hiking and camping HANG EN trip. (p163) CAVE Khe Sanh Dong Ha Paracel Islands Hue PHU THUAN

Hue PHU THUAN Danang BAI HUONG PHU THUAN Savannakhet Cham Pakse Hoi An Islands Enjoy the magnificent oceanic THAILAND coastline and lack of development at GANH DA DIA Phu Thuan, which has two great TAM HAI places to stay. (p191) ISLAND Marvel at Ganh Da Dia's fascinating volcanic rock formations, located on a stunning slice of coastline with good beaches and swimming. (p241) CAMBODIA 35PleikuSOUTH CHINA BANGKOK Siem Reap Central HighlandsQuy Nhon SEA Mekong River GANH DA DIA Battambang Tonlé Sap Tuy Hoa Buon Ma JUNGLE BEACH Thuot Gulf of Nha Trang JUNGLE BEACH Thailand PHNOM Dalat Unwind at this slice of bohemian XEO QUYT FOREST PENH paradise – bungalows on the beach of Hop on a boat through silent swamps Phan Rang & your dreams – just an hour or so and enjoy an almost primordial calm Thap Cham north of Nha Trang. (p246) among the trees, one of the last Tay Ninh natural forests of the region. (p415) Vinh Xuong Takeo HO CHI MINH CITY Phan (SAIGON) Thiet XEO QUYT Tinh FOREST KE GA LIGHTHOUSE Bien Duong Vung Dong Ben Tre Tau Phu Quoc Rach Tra Vinh KE GA LIGHTHOUSE Island Gia Mekong Con Dao Charter a fishing boat for the ride out Delta Islands to this imposing, 40m-high island lighthouse, which dates from the Ca Mau French era. (p273) PLAN YOUR TRIP OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kayaking, Halong Bay (p107) Plan Your Trip Vietnam Outdoors Vietnam has great outdoor appeal. Watersports include superb kayaking, kitesurfing, good diving and snorkelling, sailing and surf- ing. Inland there’s trekking, cycling and motorbiking, and you’ll find some outstanding adventure sports operators to get you to that trail or out in the ocean.

37 PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oorsBest OutdoorsAvoid It would be foolish to attempt an ascent of MIHTIANDER/GETTY IMAGES ©Best Trekking Fansipan in the height of the rainy season, from May to September. Snorkelling and Sapa Superlative views but can be crowded. diving is not that rewarding between No- Dong Van Trails through dramatic mountain vember and April when visibility drops. scenery. Bac Ha Spectacular highland hiking incorpo- Trekking rating village homestays. Mai Chau Sublime landscapes and tribal Vietnam offers excellent trekking and villages. less strenuous walks. The scenery is often remarkable – think plunging highland Best Diving & Snorkelling valleys, tiers of rice paddies and soaring limestone mountains. Anything is possible, Con Dao Islands Remote, but the best. from half-day hikes to assaults on Fansi- Phu Quoc Visibility can be a challenge, but pan, Vietnam’s highest mountain. some nice coral gardens. Nha Trang Professional scuba schools and Generally, northern Vietnam is your many dive sites. best bet: its dramatic mountain paths and fascinating minority culture are a huge Best Cycling draw. Elsewhere, national parks and na- ture reserves have established trails (and Dalat Base camp for the dramatic two-day usually guides available to keep you on descent to Mui Ne. them). Hoi An Flat terrain to explore craft villages and cut across rice paddies. Northern Vietnam Mekong Delta Back roads beside waterways under the shade of coconut palms. The region north of Hanoi is truly spec- tacular. Sapa (p136) is Vietnam’s trekking Planning hub, full of hiking operators and hire stores (renting out sleeping bags, boots When to Go and waterproof gear). Maps detailing trails are available, as are guides. The scenery Whether you’re a committed kitesurfer or is spectacular, with majestic mountains, a warm-water diver, some careful planning impossibly green rice paddies and some is essential – Vietnam’s climate is extreme- fascinating tribal villages. But prepare your- ly variable and monsoon-dependent. self – the main trails are incredibly popular Best and some villages see hiking groups on an Surfers should be aware that the wave ac- hourly basis. To trek remote paths you’ll tion peaks in winter (November to April). have to find an expert local guide. Kitesurfing also excels at this time of year. Divers take note that water visibility is At a lower elevation is Bac Ha (p145), best in the calm months of June, July and less rainy and the trails are not heavily August. trampled. It’s very picturesque, but it lacks SAFETY FOR HIKERS ¨¨Don’t stray from established paths – Vietnam is full of unex- ploded ordnance. ¨¨Guides are usually worth hiring; they’re inexpensive, speak the lan- guage and understand indigenous culture. ¨¨Boots with ankle support are a great investment.

38 NAIHEI/GETTY IMAGES © Sapa’s jaw-dropping mountain scenery. However, you will find great hikes to Flow-PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors er Hmong and Nung villages. High altitude Ha Giang province (p148), in the extreme north of Vietnam, is the nation’s Tibet. Hikers can hook up with guides in Ha Giang city, or head out to Dong Van where there are exciting trek- king opportunities. The Moc Chau plateau (p130) is famous for its limestone karsts, plum orchards, tea plantations and dairy products. It’s an emerging region, and hiking routes are steadily being developed here. Nearby Mai Chau is more established, offering great walking in an idyllic valley setting. Elsewhere, Ba Be National Park (p102) has a network of rugged trails through spectacular karst scenery to minority vil- lages and Cat Ba (p112) boasts a popular 18km-hike (and shorter alternatives like Butterfly Valley). Central Vietnam Rice terraces, Northern Vietnam Some outstanding treks and numerous Further south there’s little for hikers to new trails are being developed between get excited about – the climate is peren- the limestone hills of Phong Nha-Ke Bang nially hot and humid and the landscape National Park (p162) by outfits like Jungle largely flat. Con Son (p281) is one curi- Boss Trekking (p164). Many routes com- ous exception, an island with cooling sea bine trekking with some caving, including, breezes and hikes through rainforest and most famously, the hike to the world’s larg- mangroves. est cave, Hang Son Doong. Cycling You’ll find excellent trails inside Cuc Phuong National Park (p160) through Bikes are a popular mode of transport in superb forest and past ancient trees and Vietnam, so cycling is an excellent way to caves to a minority village. experience the country. Basic bicycles can be rented for US$1 to US$3 per day, and Close to Danang, Bach Ma National good-quality mountain bikes for US$6 to Park (p190) has some good trails while the US$15. Ba Na Hill Station (p193) has short trails and awesome views. Adventure tours oper- The flat lands of the Mekong Delta ators in Hoi An also offer some intriguing region are ideal for long-distance rides treks in the tribal areas west of town. down back roads. Good routes include the country lanes around Chau Doc, and the Southern Vietnam quiet road that runs along the Cambodian border from Chau Doc to Ha Tien (with a With a bit of luck you might glimpse one possible detour to Ba Chuc). There’s also of the dozens of mammals present in Yok some nice cycling on the islands off Vinh Don National Park (p303) near Buon Ma Long. Thuot. You’ll need to hire a guide to see the best of Cat Tien National Park (p298), Avoid Hwy 1 as insane traffic makes it where crocodiles can be seen and night tough going and dangerous. Consider the hikes are possible; the Wild Gibbon Trek here is highly popular. Over in Dalat, sev- eral adventure tour operators offer hikes: one rewarding area is the Bidoup Nui Ba National Park (p292).

39 PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors OLGA KHOROSHUNOVA/GETTY IMAGES © Explore Vietnam by motorbike inland Ho Chi Minh Highway (Hwys 14, 15 Unless you relish getting high on ex- and 8), which offers some stunning scenery haust fumes and barged by trucks, avoid and little traffic. Hoi An is an excellent too much time on Hwy 1. The inland Ho base for exploring craft villages and rural Chi Minh Highway running the spine of lanes. Hue is also a great place for cycling, the country from north to south is one with temples, pagodas and the Perfume alternative, though of course you miss out River. on the ocean. The stretch from Duc Tho to Phong Nha offers wonderful karst scenery, In the Southwest highlands, Dalat has forests, little traffic and an excellent paved lots of dirt trails and is the base camp for road. the dramatic two-day descent to Mui Ne. Motorbiking ALT HIGHWAY 1 Motorbiking through Vietnam is an unfor- Hwy 1’s heavy traffic and trucks don’t gettable way to experience the nation. It’s make for great motorbiking or bicy- the mode of transport for most Vietnam- cling. It’s possible, with some careful ese, and there are repair shops everywhere. planning, to loop off Hwy 1 at regular Two wheels put you closer to the country- intervals and use coastal back roads: side – its smells, people and scenery – com- ¨¨east of Hue between Thuan An pared with getting around by car or bus. and Vin Hien For those seeking true adventure, there is no better way to go. ¨¨between Chi Thanh and the Hon Gom peninsula If you’re not confident riding a mo- torbike, it’s comparatively cheap to hire ¨¨south of Nha Trang to the Cam someone to drive one for you. Easy Riders Ranh airport (p295) is one such scheme. ¨¨between Phan Thiet and Vung Tau

40 PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors Two of the most dramatic rides in the In season, head to Bai Dai beach, 27km southern half of the country are the Hai south of Nha Trang, where’s there’s a good Van Pass, featuring hairpin after hairpin left-hand break. and oceanic views, and the spectacular road between Nha Trang and Dalat which cuts Beginners can head to Mui Ne, with through forests and takes in a 1700m pass. multiple breaks around the bay, includ- ing short right- and left-handers. Further Further north, there’s glorious mountain south, Vung Tau is inconsistent, but offers scenery, river valleys and tribal villages some of Vietnam’s best waves when condi- around Sapa and Dien Bien Phu. The route tions are right. through Ha Giang province through Ha Giang, Dong Van and Bao Lac is the ulti- Anyone searching for fresh waves in mate, with superlative vistas and stupen- remote locations should be extremely wary dous mountain roads. of unexploded ordnance. Garbage, storm- water run-off and industrial pollution are other hazards. Surfing Kitesurfing, Windsurfing & Sailing There’s surf most times of year in Vietnam, though it isn’t an acclaimed destination – Windsurfing and kitesurfing are taking the wave scene in Apocalypse Now was off. Mui Ne Beach is fast becoming a wind- shot in the Philippines. Dedicated surf chasers’ hotspot in Asia with competitions shops are rare; though the odd guesthouse and a real buzz about the place. Nha Trang and adventure sport tour operator have and Vung Tau are other possibilities. boards for hire. Two-hour beginner lessons start at Surf’s up between November and April US$100; it’s tough to get your head around when the winter monsoon blows from the all the basics (and also tough on your body!). north. Several typhoons form in the South China Sea each year, and these produce the The best conditions in Mui Ne are be- biggest wind swells. tween November to April. Mornings are ideal for beginners, while in the afternoon The original GI Joe break, China Beach wind speeds regularly reach 35 knots. is a 30km stretch of sand, which can pro- duce clean peaks of over 2m, though watch Also based in Mui Ne, Manta Sail Train- out for pollution after heavy rains. ing Centre (p268) is a professional new sailing outfit offering training and boat rentals. BEST BEACHES Drawing up a list of Vietnam’s best beaches is a near-impossible task (there are a dozen idyllic coves in Phu Quoc alone) but here are our picks: Sao Beach, Phu Quoc (p391) Bai Dat Doc, Con Dao Islands (p283) Long Beach, Phu Quoc (p391) Doc Let Beach (p245) Bai Mon, Vung Ro Bay (p246) An Bang Beach, Hoi An (p220) Thuan An Beach, Hue (p191) Mui Ne (p265) Minh Chau Beach, Quan Lan Island (p121) Bai Dai (p262) Nha Trang Beach (p247) My Khe, Danang (p202)

PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors41 Top: Caving, PhongCHRISTER FREDRIKSSON/GETTY IMAGES © Nha-Ke Bang National Park (p162) Bottom: Windsurfing, Mui Ne (p265) CARSTEN PETER/GETTY IMAGES ©

42 PL A N YO U R TRI P V i e tn a m O u t d oors Diving & Snorkelling Whitewater Rafting Vietnam is not a world-class dive mecca Rafting is in its infancy in Vietnam. Sev- but it does have some fascinating dive eral outfits in Dalat offer trips around the sites. If you’ve experienced reefs in Indo- town, including Phat Tire Ventures (p293), nesia or Australia, prepare yourself for less which runs a day trip down the Lang- sea life and reduced visibility. The most bian River with Class II, III or IV rapids, popular scuba-diving and snorkelling is depending on the season; prices start at around Nha Trang (p247), where there are US$67. Companies based in Nha Trang several reputable dive operators. Hoi An’s also offer trips. dive schools head to the Cham Islands (p223), where macro life can be intriguing. Caving Phu Quoc Island (p389) is another popular spot. There are stupendous cave trips at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park (p162), many Two fun dives cost around US$70 to of which involve some hiking, swimming US$80; expect to pay US$25 to US$40 for (there are a lot of river caves) and a short snorkelling daytrips. PADI Open Water climb or two. courses cost between US$325 and US$500. Specialist Oxalis (p164) is the only oper- The Con Dao Islands offer unquestion- ator licensed to take you to the wonders of ably the best diving and snorkelling in Hang Son Doong, the world’s largest cave. Vietnam, with bountiful marine life, fine But if your budget won’t stretch to this, reefs and even a wreck dive. However, other excellent options include Hang Toi prices are higher (around US$160 for two (Dark Cave) and Hang Va (both recently fun dives). opened up to visitors). You can trek 7km inside Paradise Cave and do a remarkable Note that Vietnam is home to several two-day hike to Hang En Cave and Ban dodgy dive shops, some of which have fake Doong village, and there’s the lovely swim- PADI credentials. Nha Trang in particu- through Tu Lan cave system. lar has an excess of such places. Stick to reputable, recommended dive schools with good safety procedures, qualified instruc- tors and well-maintained equipment. Kayaking & SUP Rock Climbing Kayaking has exploded in popularity The pioneers and acknowledged rock around Halong Bay. Many tours now climbing specialists are Asia Outdoors include a spot of kayaking or stand up (p116), a highly professional outfit based paddle-boarding through the karst islands, in Cat Ba Town that has instruction for or you can choose a specialist and paddle beginners and dedicated trips for rock around majestic limestone pinnacles be- stars. In Dalat there are a couple of good fore overnighting on a remote bay. adventure tour operators offering climbing and canyoning. And in Hoi An, Phat Tire Other key destinations include Cat Ba Ventures (p212) offers climbing and rappel- Island, the Con Dao Islands, Phong Nha, ling on a marble cliff. Dalat and rivers in the Hoi An region. You can also rent sea kayaks and SUPs on beaches including Nha Trang. Operators include Asia Outdoors (p116), Cat Ba Ventures (p116), Hoi An Kayak Center (p212) and SUP Monkey (p212).

MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Pho bo (beef noodle soup) Plan Your Trip Eat & Drink Like a Local Showcasing fresh and vibrant flavours, excellent street food and elegant restaurants in restored colonial architecture, Vietnam is packed with superb opportunities for eating and drinking. Cookery classes, market visits and walking tours make it easy to discover the country’s culinary heritage.

44 PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r in k L i k e a L o cal Vy’s Market (p215) The country’s diverse dishes are served around lively open kitchens in Hoi An. A Day in Hanoi Quan An Ngon (p81) Bustling Hanoi showcases of Vietnamese food in colonial buildings in the Surrounded by eating and drinking op- nation’s capital. portunities, this is how a resident of the Vietnamese capital might fill a tasty day. Street-Food Tours Early Morning Pull up a squat plastic stool and enjoy dis- covering what makes Vietnam’s street food A local breakfast speciality is bun rieu cua, exceptional. noodle soup made with a hearty broth using Saigon Street Eats (p334), Ho Chi Minh City tiny crabs from rice paddies. Eat Hoi An (p212), Hoi An Danang Unplugged (p196), Danang Mid-Morning Hue Flavor (p182), Hue Hanoi Street Food Tours (p72), Hanoi Simple cafes and coffee stalls dot Hanoi, Dalat Happy Tours (p293), Dalat and catching up with friends over deliciously strong caphe is virtually mandatory. During Best Fusion Restaurants summer, tra chanh (iced lemon tea) is popular. Discover the culinary intersection between Western flavours and Vietnamese cuisine Lunch at these elegant restaurants. La Badiane (p82) French flavours blend with Bun cha (grilled pork with crab spring rolls, Vietnamese in this leafy colonial villa in Hanoi. fresh herbs and vermicelli) is the classic Xu (p342) Stylish HCMC restaurant-lounge with Hanoi midday meal. an inventive Vietnamese-inspired fusion menu. Nu Eatery (p216) Down a Hoi An laneway and Mid-Afternoon delivering Vietnamese and global flavours with a modern accent. Popular on-the-go snacking options include Spice House at Cassia Cottage (p396) Subtle banh ghoi, deep-fried pastries with pork and flavours served beachside with sunset views on mushrooms. Phu Quoc Island. Evening Hanoi’s footpaths come alive with simple bia hoi (fresh draught beer) stalls; popular drinking snacks include roast duck and dried squid. Food & Drink Vegetarian & Vegan Food Experiences Com Chay (vegetarian) restaurants serv- Plan your travel around these tasty recom- ing vegan food can be found across Viet- mendations and understand the essence of nam, often adjacent to Buddhist temples. Vietnamese cuisine. Around the first and 15th days of the Buddhist calendar month, some food stalls Introducing substitute tofu in their dishes. Vietnamese Food Chay Nang Tam (p82) Tasty variations on tofu and tempeh; Hanoi. Welcome to your first night in Vietnam. Hum Vegetarian Cafe & Restaurant (p345) Here’s where to go to get up to speed with Excellent salads in an elegant HCMC space. the country’s cuisine. Com Chay Vi Dieu (p271) Around five different Secret Garden (p340) Vietnamese classics daily dishes feature at this simple roadside spot served amid a rooftop garden in Ho Chi Minh City. in Mui Ne. Lien Hoa (p184) Featuring flavour-packed dishes with aubergine and jackfruit; Hue.

45 Viet Chay Sala (p235) Excellent selection of PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r in k L i k e a L o cal tempting dips and sauces in Quang Ngai. MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET © Minority Flavours Curious travellers should seek out the food of Vietnam’s ethnic minority groups. Look forward to occasionally challenging, but always interesting dishes. Chim Sao (p82) Try the ethnic minority sausages, served with a mint and coriander dipping sauce; Hanoi. Quan Kien (p83) Dishes inspired by Hmong, Thai and Muong cuisine, also in Hanoi. Hill Station Signature Restaurant (p141) Modern decor combines with dishes influenced by traditional Hmong cuisine in Sapa. Pleiku (p305) Popular local street foods include pho kho (two-dish noodle) and thit bo nuong ong (beef cooked in bamboo pipe). Vietnamese Coffee Street-food stalls, Hoi An (p215) Try these places to get your caffeine fix. Regional Specialities Café Duy Tri (p83) Dripping with heritage, and virtually unchanged for more than 75 years; Hanoi. Travelling north to south is a Vietnamese Cafe Pho Co (p83) Negotiate your way to a hid- journey that, geographically and gastro- den balcony overlooking Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem Lake. nomically, begins in China and ends in Cafe Xua & Nay (p242) Ocean breezes and a Southeast Asia. Differences in history, traditional wooden house built in 1832; Quy Nhon. culture and geography combine for many K’Ho Coffee (p292) Sample coffee and buy techniques, ingredients and tastes, all freshly roasted beans at this highland plantation linked by the Vietnamese love for vibrant near Dalat. flavours, fresh herbs, noodles and seafood. Cooking Courses Northern Vietnam Cooking courses can range from a simple Northern Vietnamese food bears the im- set-up in someone’s backyard to purpose- print of centuries of Chinese occupation. built schools. Comforting noodle dishes, generally mild Green Bamboo Cooking School (p211) An flavours and rustic elegance are all hall- accomplished chef offers personalised cooking marks of the region’s cuisine. Soy is used courses in Hoi An. as frequently as fish sauce, vinegar adds Hanoi Cooking Centre (p72) Excellent cooking sourness rather than lime juice or tama- classes in Hanoi that include a visit to the market rind, chillies give way to black pepper, and and cooking classes for kids. long cooking times coax maximum flavour GRAIN Cooking Classes (p332) HCMC classes from unpretentious ingredients. coordinated by Australian-Vietnamese chef Luke Banh Cuon These rolls are made from rice-flour Nguyen. batter that’s poured onto a piece of muslin cloth stretched over a steamer; once firm, the noodle sheet is scattered with chopped pork, mushrooms and dried shrimp, then rolled up, sprinkled with

46 Sapa •# CHINA LAOS MYANMAR É#_ HANOI (BURMA) É PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r in k L i k e a L o cal THAILAND É #Ù An Bang Beach SCOHSUEI NAT HA É •# Hoi An É •# Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) •# É Phu Quoc Island 2WEEKS The Ultimate Vietnamese Food Tour Start in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s energetic southern hub, and negotiate the city’s street-food scene on two wheels with Vespa Adventures (p333) or XO Tours (p334). Dis- cover local dishes like banh xeo (savoury Vietnamese crêpes) before exploring markets and trying a cooking class with Cyclo Resto (p344). Adjourn to the Pasteur Street Brew- ing Company (p347) for craft beers infused with local ingredients like lemongrass and rambutan. Consider a southern sojourn on Phu Quoc Island, taking in grilled seafood at the Dinh Cao Night Market (p396), before heading north to Hoi An. Once one of Asia’s most cosmopolitan ports with traders from around the world, Hoi An now hosts international visitors at the town’s many cookery schools. Learn the secrets of local cuisine at the Morning Glory Cooking School (p211) or Red Bridge Cooking School (p211), and uncover street food secrets with the Eat Hoi An (p212) food tour. Detour to nearby An Bang Beach for more seafood at Sea Shell (p222), and try Hoi An’s signature dish cao lau (Japanese-style noodles with herbs, salad greens, bean sprouts and roast pork) at Mermaid Restaurant (p215). Continue north to Hanoi, and negotiate the bustling labyrinth of the Old Quarter with Hanoi Street Food Tours (p72). Iconic Hanoi dishes to try include cha ca (grilled fish with turmeric and dill) at Cha Ca Thang Long (p80), and pho bo (beef noodle soup) at Pho Thin (p79). Learn about northern Vietnamese cuisine at the Hanoi Cooking Centre (p72), try dish- es inspired by Vietnam’s ethnic minorities at Quan Kien (p83) or Chim Sao (p82), and then head north to Sapa, the heartland region of minority groups including the Hmong and the Red Dzao. Experience Hmong-inspired dishes at Hill Station Signature Restau- rant (p141), book in for its cooking class, and toast your new knowledge of Vietnamese cuisine with a ruou (rice wine) tasting set.

47 PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r in k L i k e a L o cal FABVIETNAM_PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES © Bun bo Hue (spicy beef soup) crispy shallots, and served alongside a tangle of and herbs are miniature versions of their bean sprouts, slivered cucumber and chopped southern selves, while Hue’s imperial fresh herbs, with a saucer of nuoc cham (dipping cuisine showcases dainty, delicate dishes. sauce) for drizzling. One edible legacy of the royal court is eas- Bun Cha This street favourite features barbecued ily found on the street: banh beo, delicate sliced pork or pork patties served with thin rice steamed cakes made from rice flour. The vermicelli, fresh herbs and green vegetables, and central Vietnamese like gutsy and spicy a bowl of lightly sweetened nuoc mam (fish sauce) flavours, including briny shrimp sauce and with floating slices of pickled vegetables. The spritely lemongrass. Hanoi version combines sliced pork belly and pork Banh Khoai These hearty, dessert-plate-sized patties formed from chopped pork shoulder. crepes are made with rice-flour batter and cooked Pho Bo A northern culinary highlight is pho bo with oil in special long-handled pans. With a filling (beef noodle soup). A good pho hinges on the of shrimp, pork, egg and bean sprouts, they are broth, which is made from beef bones boiled for encased with fresh herbs in lettuce, and then hours with shallot, ginger, fish sauce, black car- dunked in a sauce based on earthy fermented damom, star anise and cassia. Hardcore northern soybeans. pho lovers frown upon adding lime, basil, and bean Bun Bo Hue This punchy rice-noodle soup with sprouts to their bowls. beef and pork exemplifies the central Vietnamese proclivity for spicy food. Tinged yellow-orange Central Vietnam by chillies and annatto, the broth is laden with lemongrass notes and anchored by savoury Positioned between culinary extremes, shrimp sauce (mam tom). Like most Vietnamese the food of central Vietnam combines noodle soups, it’s accompanied by herbs and leafy moderation and balance – except where it greens. concerns the locals’ love of chilli. People Com Hen Rice is served with the flesh of tiny cook from the land, transforming mod- clams, their cooking broth, and garnishes est resources into fare fit for an emperor. including roasted rice crackers, crisp pork Everything seems smaller; baguettes

MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET © 48 BHOFACK2/GETTY IMAGES © Top: Market stall in Hoi An (p215) Bottom: Pork banh mi (filled baguettes) PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D r in k L i k e a L o cal