Lonely Planet Vietnam

IN VIETNAM facilities – in Hanoi, HCMC 499Health Avail abilit y & Cost of He alth Care and Danang – have health-­ Availability facility standards that come Infectious & Cost of close to those in developed Diseases Health Care countries. Bird Flu The significant improvement State Hospitals in Vietnam’s economy has The bird flu virus rears its brought with it some major Most are overcrowded and head from time to time in advances in public health. basic. In order to treat for- Vietnam. It occurs in clus- However, in remote parts, eigners, a facility needs to ters, usually among poultry local clinics will only have ba- obtain a special licence and workers. It’s rarely fatal for sic supplies – if you become so far only a few have been humans. When outbreaks do seriously ill in rural Vietnam, provided. occur, eggs and poultry are get to Ho Chi Minh City banished from the menu in (HCMC), Danang or Hanoi Self-Treatment many hotels and restaurants. as quickly as you can. For surgery or other extensive If your problem is minor (eg Dengue treatment, don’t hesitate to travellers’ diarrhoea) this is fly to Bangkok, Singapore or an option. If you think you This mosquito-borne disease Hong Kong. may have a serious disease, is becoming increasingly especially malaria, do not problematic in Southeast Private Clinics waste time – travel to the Asia. Several hundred thou- nearest quality facility to sand people are hospitalised These should be your first receive attention. with dengue haemorrhagic port of call. They are familiar fever in Vietnam every year, with local resources and Buying medication over but the fatality rate is less can organise evacuations if the counter is not recom- than 0.3%. As there is no necessary. The best medical mended, as fake medications vaccine available, it can only and poorly stored or out- be prevented by avoiding of-date drugs are common. mosquito bites. The mos- Check expiry dates on all quito that carries dengue medicines. RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends the following vaccinations for ­travellers to Southeast Asia: Adult diphtheria and tetanus Single booster recommended if you’ve had none in the previous 10 years. Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another 20 years’ protection. Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is also available, as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A. Lifetime protection occurs in 95% of people. Measles, mumps and rubella Two doses of MMR are required unless you have had the diseases. Many young adults require a booster. Typhoid Recommended unless your trip is less than a week and only to developed cities. The vaccine offers around 70% protection and lasts for two or three years. Varicella If you haven’t had chickenpox, discuss this vaccination with your doctor. Long-Term Travellers These vaccinations are recommended for people travelling for more than one month, or those at special risk: Japanese B encephalitis Three injections in all. A booster is recommended after two years. A sore arm and headache are the most common side effects reported. Meningitis Single injection. Rabies Three injections in all. A booster after one year will provide 10 years of protection. Tuberculosis Adults should have a TB skin test before and after travel, rather than the vaccination.

500 Health Infectious Dise ases TAP WATER Diagnosis can only be made by taking a blood sample. Be very careful of what you drink. Tap water is heavily chlorinated in urban areas, but you should still avoid it. Two strategies should be Stick to bottled water, which is available everywhere. Ice comb­ ined to prevent malaria: is generally safe in the cities and resorts, and is often mosquito avoidance and added to drinks and coffee. antimalarial medications. bites throughout the day sex workers and drug users. MALARIA PREVENTION and night, so use insect-­ Condoms are widely availa- ¨¨Choose accommodation avoidance measures at all ble throughout Vietnam. with screens and fans (if not times. Symptoms include a air-conditioned). high fever, a severe headache Japanese B ¨¨Impregnate clothing with and body aches (dengue was Encephalitis permethrin in high-risk once known as ‘breakbone areas. fever’). Some people develop This viral disease is transmit- ¨¨Sleep under a mosquito a rash and experience diar- ted by mosquitoes. It’s very net. rhoea. There is no ­specific rarely caught by travellers ¨¨Spray your room with treatment, just rest and but vaccination is recom- insect repellent before going paracetamol – do not take mended for those spending out for your evening meal. aspirin as it increases the extended time in rural areas. ¨¨Use a DEET-containing likelihood of haemorrhaging. There is no treatment; a third insect repellent on all See a doctor to be diagnosed of infected people will die exposed skin, particularly the and monitored. while another third will suffer ankle area. Natural repellents permanent brain damage. such as citronella can be Hepatitis A effective but must be applied Malaria frequently. A problem throughout the ¨¨Use mosquito coils. region, this food- and water-­ For such a serious and poten- ¨¨Wear long sleeves and borne virus infects the liver, tially deadly disease, there trousers in light colours. causing jaundice (yellow skin is an enormous amount of and eyes), nausea and lethar- misinformation concerning MALARIA MEDICATION gy. There is no specific treat- malaria. You must get expert There are various medica- ment for hepatitis A – you advice as to whether your tions available. just need to allow time for trip actually puts you at Chloroquine & Paludrine The the liver to heal. All travellers risk. Many parts of Vietnam, effectiveness of this combination to Vietnam should be vacci- particularly city and resort is now limited in Vietnam. Gener- nated against hepatitis A. areas, have minimal to no ally not recommended. risk of malaria, including Doxycycline A broad-spectrum Hepatitis B Danang, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh antibiotic that has the added City and Nha Trang. For most benefit of helping to prevent a The only serious sexually rural areas, however, the risk variety of tropical diseases, in- transmitted disease that can of contracting the disease cluding leptospirosis, tick-borne be prevented by vaccination, far outweighs the risk of any disease, typhus and melioidosis. hepatitis B is spread by tablet side effects. Travellers Potential side effects include a body fluids, including sexual to isolated areas in high-risk tendency to sunburn, thrush in contact. In some parts of regions such as Ca Mau and women, indigestion and interfer- Southeast Asia up to 20% of Bac Lieu provinces, and the ence with the contraceptive pill. the population are carriers rural south, may like to carry It must be taken for four weeks of hepatitis B, and usually a treatment dose of medi- after leaving the risk area. are unaware of this. The cation for use if symptoms Lariam (mefloquine) Receives long-term consequences occur. Remember that ma- a lot of bad press, some of it can include liver cancer and laria can be fatal. Before you justified, some not. This weekly cirrhosis. travel, seek medical advice tablet suits many people. Serious on the right medication and side effects are rare but include HIV dosage for you. depression, anxiety, psychosis and seizures. It’s around 90% The official figures on the Malaria is caused by a effective in Vietnam. number of people with HIV/ parasite transmitted by the Malarone Side effects are AIDS in Vietnam are vague, bite of an infected mosquito. uncommon and mild, most com- but they are on the rise. The most important symp- monly nausea and headaches. Health-education messages tom of malaria is fever, but It is the best tablet for scuba-­ relating to HIV/AIDS are vis- general symptoms such as ible all over the countryside, headache, diarrhoea, cough but the official line is that or chills may also occur. infection is largely limited to

501 divers and for those on short spread of most sexually within two weeks of starting Health Tr avellers’ Diarrhoe a trips to high-risk areas. transmitted diseases. How- their trip. In over 80% of A final option is to take no ever, they may not guard cases, travellers’ diarrhoea preventive medication but to against genital warts or is caused by a bacteria, and have a supply of emergency herpes. If after a sexual therefore responds promptly medication (Malarone is encounter you develop any to treatment with antibiotics. usually recommended: four rash, lumps, discharge or It can also be provoked by tablets once daily for three pain when passing urine, a change of diet, and your days) should you develop the seek immediate medical stomach may settle down symptoms of malaria. This is attention. again after a few days. less than ideal, and you’ll still need to get to a good medical Tuberculosis Treatment consists of facility within 24 hours of staying hydrated, or you developing a fever. Tuberculosis (TB) is very could take rehydration rare in short-term travellers. ­solutions. Measles Medical and aid workers, and long-term travellers who Loperamide is just a Measles remains a problem have significant contact with ‘stopper’ and doesn’t get to in Vietnam, including the Ha- the local population should the cause of the problem. It noi area. Many people born take precautions. Vaccina- is helpful if you have to go before 1966 are immune as tion is usually only given to on a long bus ride, but don’t they had the disease in child- children under the age of five, take loperamide if you have a hood. Measles starts with a but it is recommended that fever or blood in your stools. high fever and rash but can at-risk adults have pre- and be complicated by pneumo- post-travel TB testing. The Amoebic Dysentery nia and brain disease. There main symptoms are fever, is no specific treatment. cough, weight loss, night Amoebic dysentery is very sweats and tiredness. rare in travellers. Symptoms Rabies are similar to bacterial Typhoid ­diarrhoea (eg fever, bloody This uniformly fatal disease diarrhoea and generally is spread by the bite or lick This serious bacterial infec- feeling unwell). Treatment of an infected animal – most tion is spread via food and involves two drugs: tinidazole commonly a dog or monkey. water. It gives a high, slowly or metronidazole to kill the Seek medical advice im- progressive fever and head- parasite and a second to kill mediately after any animal ache. Vaccination is recom- the cysts. bite and start post-exposure mended for all travellers treatment. Having a pre-­ spending more than a week Giardiasis travel vaccination means the in Vietnam, or travelling out- post-bite treatment is greatly side of the major cities. Be Giardia lamblia is a parasite simplified. If an animal bites aware that vaccination is not that is relatively common in you, gently wash the wound 100% effective so you must travellers. Symptoms include with soap and water, and still be careful with what you nausea, bloating, excess gas, apply an iodine-based anti- eat and drink. fatigue and intermittent diar- septic. If you are not vacci- rhoea. ‘Eggy’ burps are often nated you will need to receive Typhus attributed solely to giardiasis, rabies immunoglobulin as but they are not specific to soon as possible. Murine typhus is spread by this infection. The treatment the fleas of rodents whereas of choice is tinidazole. Schistosomiasis scrub typhus is spread via a mite. These diseases are rare Environmental Schistosomiasis (also called in travellers. Symptoms in- Hazards bilharzia) is a tiny parasite clude fever, muscle pains and that enters your skin after a rash. You can avoid these Air Pollution you’ve been swimming in diseases by following general contaminated water. If you insect-avoidance measures. Air pollution, particularly are concerned, you can be Doxycycline will also help vehicle pollution, is severe in tested three months after prevent them. Vietnam’s major cities. If you exposure. Symptoms are have severe respiratory prob- coughing and fever. Schis- Travellers’ lems consult your doctor tosomiasis is easily treated Diarrhoea before travelling. with medications. Travellers’ diarrhoea is by far Food STDs the most common problem affecting travellers – Eating in restaurants is the Condoms, widely available between 30% and 50% of biggest risk factor for con- throughout Vietnam, are people will suffer from it tracting travellers’ diarrhoea. effective in preventing the Ways to avoid it include eat- ing only freshly cooked food,

Health Women’s He alth502 Leeches Found in humid forest and may fail to heal because of and avoiding shellfish and areas. They do not transmit the humidity. Take meticulous buffets. Peel all fruit and try any disease but their bites care of any wounds: immediately to stick to cooked vegetables. can be intensely itchy. Apply wash in clean water and apply Eat in busy restaurants with an iodine-based antiseptic to antiseptic. a high turnover of customers. any leech bite to help prevent infection. Sunburn Heat Snakes Both poisonous and harmless snakes are common in ¨¨Even on a cloudy day, Many parts of Vietnam are Vietnam, though very few travel- sunburn can occur rapidly. hot and humid throughout lers are ever bothered by them. ¨¨Always use a strong the year. Take it easy when Wear boots and avoid poking sunscreen (at least factor you first arrive. Avoid dehy- around dead logs and wood when 30). dration and excessive activity hiking. First aid in the event of ¨¨Reapply sunscreen after in the heat. Drink rehydration a snakebite involves pressure swimming. solution and eat salty food. immobilisation via an elastic ¨¨Wear a hat. Heat exhaustion Symptoms bandage firmly wrapped around ¨¨Avoid the sun between include feeling weak, headaches, the affected limb, starting at the 10am and 2pm. irritability, nausea or vomiting, bite site and working up towards sweaty skin and a fast, weak the chest. The bandage should Women’s Health pulse. Cool down in a room with not be so tight that the circu- air-conditioning and rehydrate lation is cut off, and the fingers Supplies of sanitary products with water containing a quarter or toes should be kept free so are readily available in urban of a teaspoon of salt per litre. the circulation can be checked. areas. Birth-control options Heatstroke This is a serious Immobilise the limb with a splint may be limited, so bring medical emergency. Symptoms and carry the victim to medical adequate stocks. come on suddenly and include attention. Do not use tourniquets weakness, nausea, a temperature or try to suck the venom out. Pregnant women should of over 41°C, dizziness, confusion Antivenom is available only in receive specialised advice and eventually collapse and loss major cities. before travelling. The ideal of consciousness. Seek medical Ticks Contracted during walks in time to travel is in the second help and start cooling by follow- rural areas. If you have had a tick trimester (between 16 and ing cooling treatment. bite and experience symptoms 28 weeks), during which the Prickly heat A common skin such as a rash (at the site of risk of pregnancy-related rash in the tropics. Stay in an the bite or elsewhere), fever or problems is at its lowest. air-conditioned area for a few muscle aches, you should see Some advice: hours and take cool showers. a doctor. Doxycycline prevents Rural areas Avoid remote areas tick-borne diseases. with poor transportation and Bites & Stings medical facilities. Skin Problems Travel insurance Ensure you’re Bedbugs These don’t carry covered for pregnancy-related disease but their bites are very Fungal rashes Common in possibilities, including premature itchy. Move hotel, and treat the humid climates. Moist areas that labour. itch with an antihistamine. get less air, such as the groin, Malaria None of the more Jellyfish In Vietnamese waters armpits and between the toes, effective antimalarial drugs are most are not dangerous, just are often affected. Treatment completely safe in pregnancy. irritating. Pour vinegar (or urine) involves using an antifungal Travellers’ diarrhoea Many onto the affected area. Take cream such as clotrimazole. diarrhoea treatments are not painkillers, and seek medical Consult a doctor. recommended during pregnancy. advice if you feel ill in any way. Cuts and scratches Minor Azithromycin is considered safe. Take local advice if there are cuts and scratches can become dangerous jellyfish around and infected easily in humid climates keep out of the water.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 503 Language Vietnamese, or tiếng Việt dee·úhng vee·ụht, ing and the high broken tones are both pro- is the official language of Vietnam and spo- nounced as the low rising tone. Vietnamese ken by about 85 million people worldwide, words are considered to have one syllable, so both in Vietnam and among migrant com- word stress is not an issue. munities around the world. It belongs to the Mon-Khmer language family and has Muong The variation in vocabulary between the (a hill-tribe language) as its closest relative. Vietnamese of the north and that of the south is indicated in this chapter by (N) and (S). Vietnamese pronunciation is not as hard as it may seem at first as most Vietnamese BASICS sounds also exist in English. With a bit of prac- tice and reading our coloured pronunciation Hello. Xin chào. sin jòw guides as if they were English, you shouldn’t have much trouble being understood. Note Goodbye. Tạm biệt. daạm bee·ụht that the vowel a is pronounced as in ‘at’, aa as Yes. Vâng. (N) vuhng in ‘father’, aw as in ‘law’, er as in ‘her’, oh as in Dạ. (S) yạ ‘doh!’, ow as in ‘cow’, u as in ‘book’, uh as in ‘but’ and uhr as in ‘fur’ (without the ‘r’). Vowel No. Không. kawm sounds can also be combined in various ways within a word – we’ve used dots (eg dee·úh- Please. Làm ơn. laàm ern ng) to separate the different vowel sounds to keep pronunciation straightforward. As for Thank you Cảm ơn. ğaảm ern the consonants, note that the ng sound, which is also found in English (eg in ‘sing’) can also You’re welcome. Không có chi. kawm ğó jee appear at the start of a word in Vietnamese. Also note that d is pronounced as in ‘stop’, đ Excuse me./ Xin lỗi. sin lõy as in ‘dog’ and ğ as in ‘skill’. Sorry. You’ll notice that some vowels are pro- How are you? ğáw kwả kawm nounced with a high or low pitch while others Có khỏe không? swoop or glide in an almost musical manner. This is because Vietnamese uses a system Fine, thank you. And you? of tones. There are six tones in Vietnamese, indicated in the written language (and in our Khỏe, cám ơn. kwả ğaảm ern pronunciation guides) by accent marks above or below the vowel: mid (ma), low falling Còn bạn thì sao? kwả ğòn baạn teè sow (mà), low rising (mả), high broken (mã), high rising (má) and low broken (mạ). Note that What’s your name? den laà zeè the mid tone is flat. In the south, the low ris- Tên là gì? den doy laà ... My name is ... WANT MORE? Tên tôi là ... For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan- Do you speak English? et’s Vietnamese Phrasebook and Hill Tribes Bạn có nói được baạn ğó nóy đuhr·ẹrk Phrasebook. You’ll find them at shop. tiếng Anh không? díng aang kawm lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the I (don’t) understand. Apple App Store. Tôi (không) hiểu. doy (kawm) heẻ·oo ACCOMMODATION Where is a ...? Đâu có ... ? đoh ğó ... hotel khách sạn kaák saạn guesthouse nhà khách nyaà kaák

504 I’d like (a) ... Tôi doy KEY PATTERNS To get by in Vietnamese, mix and match muốn ... moo·úhn ... these simple patterns with words of your choice: single room phòng đơn fòm dern double room phòng fòm (big bed) giường đôi zuhr·èrng đoy Language DIRECTIONS How much is it per night/person? When’s (the next bus)? Khi nào là (chuyến kee nòw laà (jwee·úhn Giá bao nhiêu một zaá bow nyee·oo mạwt xe buýt tới)? sa bweét der·eé) đêm/ngừơi? đem/nguhr·eè air-con máy lạnh máy laạng Where’s (the station)? bathroom (Nhà ga) ở đâu? (nyaà gaa) ẻr đoh fan hot water phòng tắm fòm dúhm Where can I (buy a ticket)? mosquito net Tôi có thể (mua doy ğó tẻ (moo·uh sheet quạt máy gwaạt máy vé) ở đâu? vá) ẻr đoh toilet toilet paper nước nóng nuhr·érk nóm I’m looking for (a hotel). towel Tôi tìm (khách sạn). doy dìm (kaát saạn) màng maàng Do you have (a map)? ra trãi zaa chaĩ Bạn có (bản đồ) baạn ğó (baản đàw) giường zuhr·èrng không? kawm nhà vệ sinh nyaà vẹ sing Is there (a toilet)? Có (vệ sinh) không? ğó (vẹ sing) kawm giấy vệ sinh záy vẹ sing I’d like (the menu). khăn tắm kúhn dúhm Xin cho tôi (thực sin jo doy (tụhrk đơn). đern) DIRECTIONS I’d like to (hire a car). Tôi muốn (xe doy moo·úhn (sa Where is ...? hơi). her·ee) ... ở đâu ? ... ẻr đoh Could you please (help me)? Làm ơn (giúp đỡ)? laàm ern (zúp đẽr) What is the address? Ðiạ chỉ là gì? đee·ụh cheẻ laà zeè I have (a visa). Tôi có (visa). Could you write it down, please? doy ğó (vee·saa) Xin viết ra giùm tôi. sin vee·úht zaa zùm doy Can you show me (on the map)? Do you have a menu in English? Xin chỉ giùm sin jeẻ zùm Bạn có thực đơn bằng baạn káw tụhrk đern tiếng Anh không? bùhng díng aang kawm (trên bản dồ này). (chen baản dàw này) Go straight ahead. What’s the speciality here? Thẳng tới trước. Ở đây có món gì đặc ẻr đay kó món zeè dụhk tủhng der·eé chuhr·érk biệt? bee·ụht at the corner ở góc đường ẻr góp đuhr·èrng I’d like ... sin jo doy ... dại đèn zow Xin cho tôi ... at the traffic tại đèn giao tawm lights thông đùhng sow Not too spicy, please. đùng chuhr·érk Xin đừng cho cay quá. sin đùrng jo ğay gwaá behind đằng sau gùhn đóy zee·ụhn I’m aănvecgheatya. rian. in front of đằng trước saang chaí Tôi doy uhn jay saang faỉ near (to) gần I’m allergic to (peanuts). opposite đối diện Tôi bị dị ứng doy beẹ zeẹ úhrng Turn left. Sang trái. với (hạt lạc). ver·eé (haạt laạk) Turn right. Sang phải. Can you please bring me ...? Xin mang cho tôi...? sin maang jo doy ... EATING & DRINKING Can I have a (beer), please? Xin cho tôi (chai bia)? sin jo doy (jai bee·uh) I’d like a Tôi muốn doy moo·úhn Cheers! júp súhrk kwả table for … đặt bàn cho … đụht baàn jo … Chúc sức khoẻ! (two) people (hai) (hai) Thank you, that was delicious. người nguhr·eè Cám ơn, ngon lắm. ğaám ern ngon lúhm (eight) vào lúc vòw lúp The bill, please. sin díng dee·ùhn o’clock (tám) giờ (dúhm) zèr Xin tính tiền.

505 Key Words green beans đậu xanh đọh saang green pepper ớt xanh ért saang bottle chai jai lemon chanh chaang bát/ baát/ lettuce rau diếp zoh zee·úhp bowl chén (N/S) jén lychee vải vaỉ mandarin quýt gweét breakfast ăn sáng uhn saáng mango xoài swaì Language EATING & DRINKING mushrooms nấm núhm chopsticks đôi đũa đoy·ee đoõ·uh orange cam ğaam papaya đu đủ đoo đỏo cold lạnh laạng peas đậu bi đọh bee pineapple dứa zuhr·úh dessert món tráng món chaáng potato khoai tây kwai day dinner ăn tối uhn dóy pumpkin bí ngô beé ngaw strawberry dâu zoh fork cái dĩa/ ğaí deẽ·uh/ sweet potato khoai lang kwai laang nĩa (N/S) neẽ·uh tomato cà chua ğaà joo·uh watermelon dưa hấu zuhr·uh hóh glass cốc/ly (N/S) káwp/lee hot (warm) nóng nóm knife con dao ğon zow lunch ăn trưa uhn chuhr·uh plate đĩa đeẽ·uh restaurant nhà hàng nyaà haàng snack ăn nhẹ uhn nyạ spicy cay ğay spoon cái thìa ğaí tee·ùh Other with với ver·eé chilli sauce tương ớt duhr·erng ért trứng chúhrng without không có kawm ğó eggs nước mắm nuhr·érk múhm phở fẻr Meat & Fish fish sauce beef thịt bò tịt bò flat rice cơm rang ğerm zaang thịt gà tịt gaà noodles thập cẩm (N) tụhp ğủhm chicken ğoo·uh fried rice cơm chiên (S) ğerm jee·uhn crab cua luhr·ern eel cơm ğerm lươn rice sa lát saa laát fish cá kaá salad frog ếch ék canh ğaang goat thịt dê tịt ze soup steamed rice cơm trắng ğerm chaáng pork thịt lợn/ tịt lẹrn/ ice đá đaá heo (N/S) hay·o pepper hạt tiêu haạt dee·oo prawns/shrimp tôm dawm salt muối đường moo·eé snail ốc áwp sugar bún dur·èrng squid mực mụhrk thin rice noodles bún Fruit & Vegetables yellow egg mì meè noodles apple táo/bơm (N/S) dów/berm banana chuối joo·eé Drinks cabbage bắp cải búhp ğaỉ beer bia bi·a carrot cà rốt ğaà záwt coffee cà phê ğaà fe coconut dừa zuhr·ùh iced lemon juice chanh đá jaang đaá corn ngô/bắp (N/S) ngow/búp milk sữa sũhr·uh cucumber dưa leo zuhr·uh lay·o mineral water nước nuhr·érk eggplant cà tím ğaà dím khoáng (N) kwaáng grapes nho nyo nước suối (S) nuhr·érk soo·eé

506 Numbers Tôi bị đau. doy beẹ đoh 1 một mạwt It hurts here. jãw beẹ đoh ẻr đay Chỗ bị đau ở đây. 2 hai hai I’m allergic to (antibiotics). Tôi bị dị ứng với doy beẹ zeẹ úhrng ver·eé 3 ba baa (thuốc kháng sinh). (too·úhk kaáng sing) Language EMERGENCIES 4 bốn báwn 5 năm nuhm SHOPPING & SERVICES 6 sáu sóh I’d like to buy ... Tôi muốn mua ... 7 bảy bảy doy moo·úhn moo·uh ... 8 tám dúhm Can I look at it? Tôi có thể xem 9 chín jín được không? doy ğó tẻ sam đuhr·ẹrk kawm 10 mười muhr·eè I’m just looking. 20 hai mươi hai muhr·ee Tôi chỉ ngắm xem. doy jeẻ ngúhm sam 30 ba mươi ba muhr·ee I don’t like it. Tôi không thích nó. doy kawm tík nó 40 bốn mươi báwn muhr·ee How much is this? 50 năm mươi nuhm muhr·ee Cái này giá bao nhiêu? ğaí này zaá bow nyee·oo 60 sáu mươi sów muhr·ee It’s too expensive. ğaí này gwaá múhk Cái này quá mắc. 70 bảy mươi bảy muhr·ee Do you accept credit cards? 80 tám mươi daám muhr·ee Bạn có nhận thẻ baạn kó nyụhn tả 90 chín mươi jín muhr·ee tín dụng không? dín zụm kawm 100 một trăm mạwt chuhm There’s a mistake in the bill. Có sự nhầm lẫn ğó sụhr nyùhm lũhn 1000 một nghìn (N) mạwt ngyìn trên hoá đơn. chen hwaá đern một ngàn (S) mọt ngaàn I’m looking Tôi tìm ... doy dìm ... for a/the ... orange juice cam vắt ğaam vúht red wine bank ngân hàng nguhn haàng rượu vang zee·oọ vaang soy milk đỏ đỏ market chợ jẹr tea sữa đậu sũhr·uh đọh tourist văn phòng vuhn fòm white wine office hướng huhr·érng nành naàng dẫn du lịch zũhn zoo lịk chè/trà (N/S) jà/chaà rượu vang zee·oọ vaang TIME & DATES trắng chaáng EMERGENCIES What time is it? máy zèr zòy Mấy giờ rồi? bay zèr laà (dúhm) zèr Help! ğuhr·oó doy It’s (eight) o’clock. Cứu tôi! Bây giờ là (tám) giờ. There’s been an accident! morning buổi sáng boỏ·ee saáng Có tai nạn! ğó dai naạn afternoon buổi chiều boỏ·ee jee·oò evening buổi tối boỏ·ee dóy Leave me alone! toy yesterday hôm qua hawm ğwaa Thôi! today hôm nay hawm nay tomorrow ngày mai ngày mai\\ I’m lost. doi beẹ laạk đuhr·èrng Tôi bị lạc đường. Where is the toilet? Nhà vệ sinh ở đâu? nyaà vẹ sing ẻr đoh Please call the police. Monday thứ hai túhr hai Làm ơn gọi công an. laàm ern gọy ğawm aan Tuesday thứ ba túhr baa Wednesday thứ tư túhr duhr Please call a doctor. Thursday thứ năm túhr nuhm Làm ơn gọi bác sĩ. laàm ern gọy baák seẽ I’m sick.

507 Friday thứ sáu túhr sóh the first đầu tiên đòw dee·uhn Saturday thứ bảy túhr bảy the last cuối cùng ğoo·eé ğùm Sunday chủ nhật jỏo nhụht the next kế tiếp ğé dee·úhp ticket office phòng bán vé fòm baán vá January tháng giêng taáng zee·uhng timetable thời biểu ter·eè beẻ·oo February March tháng hai taáng hai Language TRANSPORT April May tháng ba taáng baa Driving & Cycling June July tháng tư taáng tuhr I’d like to Tôi muốn doy moo·úhn August hire a ... thuê ... (N) twe ... September tháng năm taáng nuhm Tôi muốn doy moo·úhn October muớn ... (S) muhr·érn ... November tháng sáu taáng sóh tháng bảy taáng bảy car xe hơi sa her·ee December tháng tám taáng dúhm bicycle xe đạp sa đạp tháng chín taáng jín motorbike xe moto sa mo·to tháng mười taáng muhr·eè tháng mười taáng muhr·eè Is this the road to ...? một mạwt Con đường nầy ğon đuhr·èrng này tháng mười taáng muhr·eè có dẫn đến ...? ğó zũhn đén ... hai hai How many kilometres to ...? ... cách đây bao ... ğaák đay bow TRANSPORT nhiêu ki-lô-mét? nyee·oo kee·law·mét Where’s a service station? Trạm xăng ở đâu? chaạm suhng ẻr doh Public Transport Please fill it up. Làm ơn đổ đầy bình. laàm ern đỏ đày bìng When does Chuyến ... jwee·úhn ... I’d like ... litres. doy moo·úhn ... léet the (first)... (sớm nhất) (sérm nyúht) Tôi muốn ... lít. leave/arrive? chạy lúc mấy jạy lúp máy giờ? zèr boat tàu/ dòw/ diesel dầu diesel zòh dee·sel thuyền twee·ùhn highway xa lộ leaded dầu xăng saa lạw bus xe buýt sa beét petrol có chì map bản đồ zòh suhng plane máy bay máy bay unleaded dầu xăng ğó jeè petrol train xe lửa sa lủhr·uh baản đàw zòh suhng I’d like a ... Tôi muốn doy moo·úhn ticket. vé ... vá ... 1st class hạng nhất haạng nyúht (How long) Can I park here? Chúng tôi có thể đậu júm doy ğó tẻ dọh 2nd class hạng nhì haạng nyeè xe được (bao lâu)? sa đuhr·ẹrk (bow loh) one way đi một đee mạt chiều jee·oò I need a mechanic. júm doy ğùhn tẹr Chúng tôi cần thợ sủhr·uh sa return khứ hồi kúhr haw·eè sửa xe. The car/motorbike has broken down (at ...) I want to go to ... Xe bị hư (tại ...). sa beẹ huhr (daị ...) Tôi muốn đi ... doy moo·úhn đee ... The car/motorbike won’t start. How long does the trip take? (Xe hơi/Xe moto) (sa her·ee/sa mo·to) Chuyến đi sẽ jwee·úhn đee sã không đề được. kawm đè đuhr·ẹrk mất bao lâu? múht bow loh I have a flat tyre. What time does it arrive? Bánh xe tôi bị xì. baáng sa doy beẹ seè Mấy giờ đến? máy zèr đén I’ve run out of petrol. bus station bến xe bén sa Tôi bị hết dầu/xăng. doy beẹ hét zòh/suhng railway station ga xe lửa gaa sa lủhr·uh I’ve had an accident. Tôi bị tai nạn. doy beẹ dai naạn

508 GLOSSARY Language GLOSSARY A Di Da – Buddha of the Past Dai The Chi Bo Tat – an Indochina – Vietnam, Agent Orange – toxic, ­assistant of A Di Da ­Cambodia and Laos. The name ­carcinogenic chemical ­herbicide dan bau – single-stringed derives from Indian and Chinese used extensively during the zither that generates an influences. American War astounding magnitude of tones am duong – Vietnamese dan tranh – 16-stringed zither kala-makara – sea-monster equivalent of Yin and Yang den – temple god American War – Vietnamese Di Lac Buddha – Buddha of kalan – a religious sanctuary name for what is also known as the Future khach san – hotel the Vietnam War dikpalaka – gods of the Khmer – ethnic Cambodians Annam – old Chinese name directions of the compass Khong Tu – Confucius for Vietnam, meaning ‘Pacified dinh – communal meeting hall kich noi – spoken drama South’ DMZ – Demilitarised Zone, a Kinh – Vietnamese language ao dai – Vietnamese national strip of land that once separated Kuomintang – Chinese dress worn by women North and South Vietnam N­ ationalist Party, also known as apsaras – heavenly maidens doi moi – economic KMT. The KMT controlled China ARVN – Army of the R­ epublic r­estructuring or reform, which between 1925 and 1949 until of Vietnam (former South commenced in V­ ietnam in 1986 d­ efeated by the c­ ommunists. Vietnamese army) dong – natural caves. Also Vietnamese currency. li xi – lucky money d­ istributed ba mu – midwife. There are dong son – drums during the ­Vietnamese Lunar 12 ‘midwives’, each of whom New Year teaches newborns a different ecocide – term used to liberation – 1975 takeover of skill necessary for the first year describe the devastating effects the South by the North. Most of life: s­ miling, sucking, lying on of the herbicides sprayed over foreigners call this ‘reunification’. their ­stomachs, and so forth Vietnam during the American Lien Xo – literally, Soviet ban – mountainous village War Union. Used to call attention to bang – congregation (in the a foreigner Chinese community) fléchette – experimental linga – stylised phallus which bar om – literally ‘holding’ bars US weapon. An artillery shell represents the Hindu god Shiva associated with the sex industry. containing thousands of darts. Also known as ‘karaoke om’. Funan – see Oc-Eo manushi-buddha – Buddha buu dien – post office who appeared in human form garuda – half human-h­ alf bird moi – derogatory word meaning cai luong – Vietnamese gom – ceramics ‘savages’, mostly used by ethnic modern theatre Vietnamese to describe hill-tribe Cao Daism – indigenous hai dang – lighthouse people Vietnamese religion hat boi – classical theatre in Montagnards – term mean- Cham – ethnic minority the south ing highlanders or mountain peo- descended from the people of hat cheo – Vietnamese popu- ple, sometimes used to refer to Champa lar theatre the ethnic minorities who inhabit Champa – Hindu kingdom hat tuong – classical theatre remote areas of Vietnam dating from the late 2nd in the north muong – large village century AD ho ca – aquarium unit made up of quel (small Charlie – nickname for the Viet Ho Chi Minh Trail – route ­stilt-houses) Cong, used by US soldiers used by the North Vietnamese chua – pagoda Army and Viet Cong to move naga – Sanskrit term for a chu nho – standard Chinese supplies to the south mythical serpent being with characters (script) Hoa – ethnic Chinese, one divine powers; often depicted Cochinchina – the southern of the largest single minority forming a kind of shelter over part of Vietnam during the groups in Vietnam the Buddha French-colonial era hoi quan – Chinese nam phai – for men com pho – rice and rice- ­congregational assembly halls napalm – jellied petrol noodle soup huong – perfume (gasoline) dropped and lit from crémaillère – cog railway huyen – rural district aircraft; used by US forces with cyclo – pedicab or bicycle devastating repercussions during rickshaw the American War

509 nguoi thuong – the current Quan The Am Bo Tat – Thich Ca Buddha – the Language GLOSSARY government’s preferred term for Goddess of Mercy historical Buddha Sakyamuni, highland people quoc am – modern Vietnam- whose real name was S­ iddhartha nha hang – restaurant ese literature Gautama nha khach – hotel or quoc ngu – Latin-based guesthouse phonetic alphabet in which thong nhat – reunification. nha nghi – guesthouse Vietnamese is written Also a commonly used term nha rong – large stilt house, for the Reunification Express used by hill tribes as a kind of rap – cinema train. community centre Revolutionary Youth nha tro – dormitory League – first Marxist group in thuoc bac – Chinese m­ edicine NLF – National Liberation Front, Vietnam and predecessor of the toc hanh – express bus the official name for the VC Communist Party Tonkin – the northern part nom – Vietnamese script, used roi can – conventional of Vietnam during the French- between the 10th and early 20th ­puppetry colonial era. Also the name of centuries roi nuoc – water puppetry a body of water in the north nu phai – for women ruou (pronounced xeo) – (Tonkin Gulf). nui – mountain rice wine nuoc mam – fish sauce, added RVN – Republic of Vietnam (the truyen khau – traditional oral to almost every main dish in old South Vietnam) literature Vietnam NVA – North Vietnamese Army salangane – swiftlet UNHCR – UN High sao – wooden flute C­ ommissioner for Refugees Oc-Eo – Indianised Khmer saola – antelope-like c­ reature kingdom (also called Funan) in shakti – feminine VC – Viet Cong or southern Vietnam between the ­manifestation of Shiva Vietnamese Communists 1st and 6th centuries song – river Viet Kieu – overseas Ong Bon – Guardian Spirit of SRV – Socialist Republic of Vi- Vietnamese Happiness and Virtue etnam (Vietnam’s official name) Viet Minh – League for the OSS – US Office of Strategic Independence of Vietnam, a Services. The predecessor of Strategic Hamlets Pro- nationalistic movement that the CIA. gram – program (by South fought the Japanese and French Vietnam and the USA) of forcibly but later b­ ecame communist pagoda – traditionally an moving peasants into fortified dominated eight-sided Buddhist tower, but villages to deny the VC bases of VNQDD – Viet Nam Quoc Dan in Vietnam the word is commonly support Dang. Largely middle -class used to denote a temple sung – fig tree nationalist party. phong thuy – literally, ‘wind and water’. Used to describe Tam Giao – literally, ‘triple xang – petrol geomancy. Also known by its religion’. Confucianism, Taoism xe Honda loi – wagon pulled Chinese name, feng shui. and Buddhism fused over time by a motorbike PRG – Provisional Revolution- with popular Chinese beliefs and xe lam – tiny three-wheeled ary Government, the temporary ancient Vietnamese animism. trucks used for short-haul Communist government set up Tao – the Way. The essence of passenger and freight by the VC in the South. It existed which all things are made. transport from 1969 to 1976. Tay ba lo – backpacker xe loi – wagon pulled by a Tet – Vietnamese Lunar New motorbike in the Mekong Delta quan – urban district Year region Quan Cong – Chinese God thai cuc quyen – Vietnamese xe om – motorbike taxi, also of War for t’ai chi called Honda om xich lo – cyclo, from the French cyclo-pousse

510 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS R   Rehahn Croquevielle, Réhahn Croquevielle, Riad El-Bdour, Richard Ackermann, Robert Many thanks to the travellers who used Hoke, Robert Moss, Rogier van den Heuvel, the last edition and wrote to us with help- Ruth Webber S   Sabine Höhn, Selma Askin, ful hints, useful advice and interesting Sina Afshar, Sophie Sykes, Steven Cras, Susan anecdotes: Prolman T   Ted Kaynor, Theo Muth, Tia Bul- A   Aida Soldevila , Alex Jones, Alfonso Te- len, Tim Bird, Tim Schmitt, Tina Trenkner, Tony deschi, Alison Lewis, Amy Baxter, Andrew Chan, Torben Retboll W   William Tinkler, Wood, Angeline Schoor, Anna Staudigl, Anto- Wouke Eindhoven Y   Yee Foo, Yves Le Saux nia Diaz, Arundhati Katju  B   Bill Batcheller, Bill Weir, Bonnet Jean-Baptiste, Brandon Cae- AUTHOR THANKS sar, Bryan Brennan C   Carole Moore, Cornay Sinac D   Daniel Kingston, David Cutaia, Iain Stewart David English, Delphine Charlet, Douglas Brat- ten, Duc Le, Dustin Gerding E   Eline Bongers, So many people have helped me over the Emily McGill F   Fabiola Frattini, Felicity Bush, years, shape and create this guide. I’d particu- Florin Teodorescu, Frank Knab G  Garry larly like to single out Nick and Slo in HCMC, Grass, Giles Denby, Ginny Tong, Gordon Blues the Mui Ne posse, Dave in Con Dao, all the H   Harriet & Bryony Perks, Holly Hutchinson, Nha Trang crew and Nick Ray. Caroline Mills’ Huw Jones J   Jack Tattis, James Morrison, contacts and contributions greatly helped me Jane Edwards, Janneke Blom, Jasper Raut- along the way and cheers to Vinh Vu of Hand- enberg, Jay Sherrerd, Jeffrey Eng, Josephine span, Ben and Bich, Howard and Deb, Chien Van As, Jvala Schelling K   Karlie Drutz, in Hanoi and Neil Fraser, Mark and Dzung in Kilian Friese L   Lesli Uebel, Liz Cornwell, Liz Hoi An. Thanks also to Laura Crawford for her Rushton, Loeiz Lagadec, Lucy Marris M  Mar support and all the LP editorial and production Mosquera, Marcus Wood, Markus Pusnik, Mar- staff. tin Woodford, Massimo Corona, Matt Yates, Megan Harcourt, Michael A. Jensen, Michael Brett Atkinson Hromadka, Michael Meryash N  Nadine Tapfer, Nguyen Tanh, Nick Comer O  Ozzy Cam ơn to Kien Tran and my extended Hanoi Unsworth P   Patricia & John Livesley, family, and around Phong Nha, thanks to Ben, Peter Aston, Peter Calingaert, Peter Heading Bich and the team. In Dong Ha, thanks to Tam for surprising local flavours, and cheers to Mark, Leanne, Neil, and Caroline in Hoi An, and

to Tony in Danang. Nick Ross, Ariele Gold and window at extremely short notice, to house BEHIND THE SCENES (especially) Mark Zazula were great contacts sit for me so that I could research this book. in HCMC, and thanks to all the Lonely Planet editors and cartographers. Final thanks to Benedict Walker Carol and my family in New Zealand. Big thanks to my friends in Vietnam, Kien and Anna Kaminski family, Sophie, Fabiola and my old pal Zoe Butt: you’re an inspiration, girl. To Mum for I would like to thank Laura for entrusting me keeping me sane when my bag disappeared with these chapters, fellow scribes for advice and for always keeping the faith. To Jess at LP along the way, and also the following: Kelly for lending a hand and the wonderful Laura McCartney for the serendipitous meeting on Crawford for opening so many doors. This a plane, Thu and friends for the wonderful book is for aunty Bonnie, my book lady, for outing in Cao Lanh, Sherry and Brijiu for the sticking around when I hit the road and still company in Chau Doc, Hieu in Can Tho (and being here when I got back. If you’re an angel on Pirate Island), the good people of Mango by the time this hits shelves, keep an eye on Home Riverside, Murray Guesthouse and me please! Villa Vista for all your help and advice, Curtis and Thuy in Dalat, Andy in Ha Tien, Mr The ACKNOWLEDGMENTS and Mr Hiep for the careful driving, and Mr An for introducing me to the culture of the Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Bahnar. Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Jessica Lee Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. On the road, thanks to Shu, Mr Tung, Dong and Linh and huge thanks to my road-tripping Cover photograph: Temple of Literature, buddy Kien. Also, thanks to fellow author Hanoi; Jon Arnold, AWL © Brett for some great advice and tips. Back home, shout out to the amazing Shannon Illustrations pp180–1 and pp428–29 by Wang who tossed her entire plans out the Michael Weldon. THIS BOOK This guidebook was produced Bain, Michelle Bennett, Andrea by the following: Dobbin, Carly Hall, Victoria This 13th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Laura Harrison, Lauren O’Connell, Planet’s Vietnam guidebook Crawford Kristin Odijk, Jeanette Wall was researched and written by Product Editors Alison Iain Stewart, Brett Atkinson, Ridgway, Katie O’Connell Assisting Layout Designer Anna Kaminski, Jessica Lee, Virginia Moreno Nick Ray and Benedict Walker. Regional Senior Cartogra- Cover Researcher Naomi The previous edition was phers Valentina Kremenchut- Parker written and researched by skaya, Diana Von Holdt Thanks to Carolyn Boicos, Iain Stewart, Brett Atkinson, Book Designer Mazzy Jane Grisman, Jenna Myers, Damian Harper and Nick Ray. Prinsep Kathryn Rowan, Dianne Schall- Assisting Editors Carolyn meiner, Ellie Simpson, Lauren Wellicome

51 2 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A Bahnar villages 307-8 Buddha’s Birth, Phong Nha Caves 163, 41 Bai Bau Beach 238 Enlightenment and Tam Thanh Cave 123 accommodation 20, 478-9, Bai Dai Beach 262 Death 26 Tu Lan cave 162 see also individual Bai Huong 223 locations Buddhism 458 caving 42, 41 Bai Tu Long Bay 120-2, budget 19 cell phones 18, 484-5 activities 25-7, 36-42, see Buon Ma Thuot 301-3, 302 central Vietnam 51, also individual activities 108 bus travel Bai Xep 22, 229 152-226, 153 air travel Ban Gioc Waterfall 126-7 local transport 495 climate 152 to/from Vietnam 488 Banh It Cham Towers 243 to/from Vietnam 489, 491 food 152 within Vietnam 491 Bao Lac 151 within Vietnam 492-3 highlights 153 bargaining 21, 482 bushwalking, see trekking Cha Ban Cham Area 243-4 Amanoi 22 Bat Trang 96 business hours 19, 483 Cham Islands 223-4 American War 446-51, 476 bathrooms 485 Cham New Year 263 An Bang Beach 220-2, C Champa 243 Bayon 428, 431, 428 229, 228 beaches 23, 40, 229 Ca Mau 385-6, 386 Chau Doc 405-9, 406 An Thoi Islands 391 bedbugs 502 Ca Na 265 Chien Dan 226 Angkor temple complex Cambodia 417-32 children, travel with 479 beer 16, 22, 84, 16 Cambodia border crossings 426-32, 418, 427, Ben Tre 372-3, 372 Hanoi 61 428-9, 428-9 bicycle travel, see cycling 489, 491 Ho Chi Minh City 333 Angkor Thom 427-31, 17, biofuel 405 Chau Doc 407, 408 China Beach 201-3 429 bird flu 499 Ha Tien 401 China border crossings 489 Angkor Wat 17, 426-7, 428-9, birdwatching Ho Chi Minh City 355 Lang Son 123 428-9, 17, 428-9 Pleiku 305 Lao Cai 143 animals 471-2, see also Ba Be National Park 102 Cam Kim Island 220 Mong Cai 122 wildlife sanctuaries Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary Can Gio 365 Christianity 459 & reserves, individual Can Tho 379-83, 380 Chua Bai Dinh 158 species 384 Cannon Fort 116 churches & cathedrals Anzac sites 278 Bang Lang 383-4 Cao Bang 124-5, 151, 125 Cha Tam Church 328 architecture 462-3 Cuc Phuong National Cao Daism 459 Cho Quan Church 328 area codes 19 Cao Lanh 412-15, 413 Immaculate Conception art galleries, see museums Park 159 car travel & galleries Tra Su Bird Sanctuary to/from Vietnam 491 Cathedral 309 arts 460-2, see also within Vietnam 24, 493-4 Nha Trang Cathedral 249 individual arts 409 Cat Ba Island 22, 112-20, Notre Dame Cathedral 314 ATMs 482 U-Minh Forest 387 229, 114, 229 St Joseph Cathedral 63 bites 502 Cat Ba National Park 113-14 cinema 461 B boat travel Cat Tien National Park 14, cities 232 to/from Vietnam 491 298-300, 14 climate 18, 25-7, see also  Ba Be National Park 15, within Vietnam 492 cathedrals, see churches & individual locations 102-3, 15 boat trips, see also sailing cathedrals clothing 20 Cat Ba Island 116 caves 231 Co To Island 122 Ba Chuc 404 Halong Bay 111 Halong Bay 107-8 Co Tu people 222 Ba Na Hill resort 193 Ho Chi Minh City 330 Hang En 163, 10, 227 Ba Vi National Park 97-8 Nha Trang 252, 255 Mua Cave 158 coffee 15, 45, 83, 469, 15 Bac Ha 13, 145-8, 145, 2, bombs 484 Nguom Ngao Cave 126-7 Con Dao Islands 14, 22, books 434, 461 Nhi Thanh Cave 123 24, 30-1 279-86, 280, 14 Bach Ma National Park 190-2 border crossings 489, 490, Con Son 103-4, 279-86, 282 see also Cambodia Confucianism 459 Map Pages 000 border crossings, China Photo Pages 000 border crossings, Laos border crossings

513 consulates 480 dengue fever 499-500 G hiking, see trekking I N D E X C - H cooking courses 45 diarrhoea 501 Hinduism 459 Dien Bien Phu 131-4, 132, Ganh Da Dia 241 history 436-53 Buon Don 304 gardens 232 Hanoi 72 30-1 gay travellers 462, 481 American War 446-51 Ho Chi Minh City 332-3 disabilities, travellers China relations 452-3 Hoi An 211 Hanoi 85 Chinese occupation Mui Ne 269 with 485 Ho Chi Minh City 350 Sapa 138 diving & snorkelling 42 geography 470-1 438, 439 Siem Reap 419 geology 471 communism 443 courses, see also cooking Cham Islands 223 Giant Jesus 275 first inhabitants 437 courses, individual Con Dao Islands 284 gibbons 299, 422 French occupation 441-2 locations Hoi An 210-11 global warming 475 independence 442-3 diving & snorkelling 42, Nha Trang 252-3 Khmer Rouge 453 Phu Quoc Island 393 H Le Loi rebellion 440 210, 252, 284, 393 DMZ, see Demilitarised reunification 451-2 kitesurfing 40, 268 Zone Ha Giang 12, 148-9 Tay Son Rebellion 441 language 72, 333 Doc Let Beach 245-6 Ha Giang Province 12, 148- Viet Cong (VC) 446 sailing 40, 268 Dong Ha 172-4 WWII 444 yoga 213 Dong Hoi 167-9, 167 51, 2, 12 HIV 500 credit cards 482 Dong Van 150-1 Ha Tien 399-403, 400 Cu Chi 359-62 Dragon Bridge 195, 232 Hai Van Pass 193 Hmong people 137, 457, 2, Cua Dai Beach 220 drink spiking 259 24, 30-1 Cua Lo Beach 161-75 drinking, see individual Haiphong 104-7, 105 Cuc Phuong National Park locations Halong Bay 10, 107-20, 475, Ho Chi Minh 443, 444, 445 159-60 drinks 24, 469, see also Ho Chi Minh City 11, 51, culture 434-5, 454-9 beer 108, 11, 28-9, 36 currency 18, 482 driving, see car travel Halong City 110-12, 110 311-65, 312-13, 315, customs regulations 479 driving licences 493 Ham Ho Nature Reserve 319, 320, 325, 336, cuts 502 drugs 481 359, 11, 26 cycling 38-9, 115, 253, Duong Dong 391, 392 240 accommodation 311, 491-2 Duong Long Cham Towers 334-40 cyclo travel 495 243-4 Hang En 163, 10, 227 activities 330-2 Hang Pac Bo 125-6 climate 311 D E Hang Son Doong 164 courses 332-3 Hanoi 12, 22, 50, 54-98, drinking & nightlife 22, Dai Lanh Beach 245 economy 434-5 347-51 Dai Nam Theme Park 360 electricity 480 56-7, 58-9, 62-3, 66, entertainment 351-2 Dalat 15, 22, 289-98, elephants 304, 471, 472 68, 70, 12 festivals & events 334 embassies 480 accommodation 54, 74-8 food 311, 340-7 290, 15 emergencies 19 activities 71-2 highlights 312-13 accommodation 293-4 entertainment, see  children, travel with 61 history 314 activities 293 climate 54 itineraries 322 drinking 296-7 individual locations courses 72 shopping 352-4 entertainment 296-7 environment 470-6 drinking 84-7 sights 314-30 food 294-6 environmental hazards entertainment 87 tourist information 355 history 289 festivals & events 74 tours 333-4 information 297 501-2 food 54, 78-84 travel to/from 356 shopping 297 environmental issues 473-6 highlights 56-7 travel within 357-8 sights 289-93 etiquette 21, 49, 456 history 55 walking tours 330-1, 331 travel to/from 297-8 events 25-7 itineraries 55 Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum travel within 298 exchange rates 19 scams 90 Complex 64-7 explosives 484 shopping 87-9 Ho Chi Minh Trail 96, Danang 26, 193-9, 194, sights 55-71 304, 446 200, 26, 232 F tourist information 91 Ho Coc Beach 273 tours 72-4 Ho Tram Beach 273 Danang Fireworks Festival festivals 25-7, see also travel agencies 88 Hoa Binh 127-9 26 individual locations travel to/from 92-4 Hoa Hao Buddhism 459 travel within 94-5 Hoa Lu 158 dance 460 film 434, 461 Hoan Kiem Lake 61 dangers, see safety fish farming 405 walking tours 73, 73 Dao Ngoc Vung Island 122 food 9, 21, 23, 43-9, 464-9, health 498-502 Hoi An 9, 203-20, 204-5, deforestation 473-4 heat exhaustion 502 3, 9, 45, 48 Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) 480, 8-9, 43, 46, 47, heatstroke 502 accommodation 213-15 48, see also individual hepatitis A 500 activities 210-11 16, 169-72, 170, 16 locations hepatitis B 500 courses 211-13 Den Kiep Bac 103-4 fungal rashes 502 Hien Luong Bridge 16 highlands 231, 231

514 I N D E X H - N Hoi An continued Jarai people 458 M Cambodia Landmine drinking 217 jellyfish 484, 502 Museum 419 festivals 213 magazines 482 food 215-17 K Mai Chau 129-31 Dien Bien Phu Museum history 203-5 malaria 500-1 22 shopping 217-18 Karst Mountains 231, maps 482 sights 205-10 230-1 Marble Mountains 201 Ethnographic Museum tourist information 219 markets 13, 23 301 tours 212 karsts 111, 115, 123, 471 travel to/from 219 kayaking 42 Bac Ha Market 145, 146, Fine Arts Museum (Ho travel within 219-20 2, 13, 24, 31 Chi Minh City) 324 Cat Ba National Park holidays 483 115-16 Binh Tay Market 325 Fine Arts Museum of Hon Chong 403-4 Cai Be Floating Market Vietnam (Hanoi) 67 Hon Chong Promontory Halong Bay 109, 36 Ke Ga lighthouse 273 377 HCMC Museum 317 249-50 Kenh Ga 158 Cai Rang 383 History Museum 320 Hon Giang 403 Khmer Krom 371 Can Tho 382 Ho Chi Minh Museum Hon Lao 254 Khmer people 371 Cao Bang 126 kitesurfing 40, 268-9 Dong Van 150 317-18 Hue 11, 174-87, 176-7, 188, Kon Harachot 309 Dong Xuan Market 60 Ho Chi Minh Trail 11, 24, 180-1 Kon Jodreh 309 Hanoi 89 accommodation 183-4 Kon Klor 309 Phong Dien 383 Museum 96 drinking 185-6 Kon Ktu 309 massages Hoi An Museum of festivals 183 Kon Tum 231, 307-10, Hanoi 71 food 184-5 Hoi An 211 History & Culture history 175 308, 231 Ho Chi Minh City 332 209-10 shopping 186 Kon Tum Konam 309 measles 501 Long Thanh Gallery 251 sights 175-82 Kon Tum Kopong 309 measures 482 Museum of Cham tourist information 186-7 medical services 499 Sculpture 195 tours 182-3 L Mekong Delta 52, 366-416, Museum of Traditional travel to/from 187 Vietnamese Medicine travel within 187 Lai Chau 135-6 367 329 lakes accommodation 366 Museum of Vietnamese Hue Festival 26 climate 366 Revolution 62 hunting 474-5 Ho Tay 69 food 366 National Museum of Hoan Kiem Lake 61 highlights 367 Vietnamese History 61 I Lak Lake 300-1 Mekong River 376, 398 National Oceanographic Tonlé Sap 423 Meo Vac 151 Museum 251 immigration 485-6, 488 Truc Bach Lake 69 mines 484 San Art 329 Imperial Enclosure, Hue Lan Ha Bay 113 mobile phones 18, 484-5 Vietnam Museum of Lang Co Beach 192 Moc Chau 130 Ethnology 69 175, 178-81, 180-1, Lang Son 123-4 money 18, 19, 482-3 Vietnamese Women’s 180-1 language 18, 21, 503-9 Mong Cai 122-3 Museum 63 infectious diseases language courses monkeys 159, 254 War Remnants Museum 499-501 Hanoi 72 motorcycle travel 22, 321-2 insurance Ho Chi Minh City 333 39-40, 39 music 460 car 494 langurs 113 central highlands 295 My Khe Beach 236-7 health 498 Lao Cai 143-5 northern Vietnam 128 My Lai Massacre 237 travel 480-1 Laos border crossings 489 to/from Vietnam 491 My Son 224-6, 225 internet access 481 Dien Bien Phu 133 tours 496 My Tho 368-70, 369 internet resources 19, 483 Dong Ha 174 within Vietnam 493-4 Islam 459 Kon Tum 307 mountain biking, see cycling N islands 229 Vinh 161 Mua Cave 158 laundry services 482 Mui Nai 403 Nam O Beach 201 itineraries 28-35, 46, 28, Le Loi 440 national parks & reserves 30, 33, 34-5, 46 leeches 502 Mui Ne 16, 22, 265-72, 266, legal matters 481 16, 41 472-3 J lesbian travellers 462, 481 Ba Be National Park 15, Hanoi 85 Muong Lay 134-5 Japanese B encephalitis Ho Chi Minh City 350 Muong people 457 102-3, 15 500 literature 434, 461 museums & galleries Ba Vi National Park 97-8 local transport 495 Bach Ma National Park Map Pages 000 Long Hai 274-5 Alexandre Yersin Photo Pages 000 Long Xuyen 411-12, 411 Museum 249 190-2 Cat Ba National Park Angkor National Museum 418 113-14 Cat Tien National Park 14, 298-300, 14 Cuc Phuong National Park 159-60 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park 10, 22, 162-7, 231, 10, 41, 227, 230

515 Tram Chim National Dieu De National Pagoda photography 483 safety 259, 483-4 I N D E X N - S Park 415 179 Phu Quoc Island 13, 389-99, sailing 40, 268 Sam Mountain 409-11 Van Long Nature Reserve Giac Lam Pagoda 329 390, 13, 32-3 158-9 Giac Vien Pagoda 328 Pirate Island 403 Sapa 17, 136-43, 138, 5, 17 Ha Chuong Hoi Quan planning 18-19, see also scams 75, 90 Yok Don National Park schistosomiasis 501 303-5 Pagoda 327-8 individual locations scratches 502 Jade Emperor Pagoda budgeting 19 Sedang people 458 newspapers 482 calendar of events 25-7 Siem Reap 52, 417-26, Nghe Islands 403 318-20 children, travel with 61, Ngoan Muc Pass 298 Khanh Van Nam Vien 418, 420 Nguom Ngao Cave 126-7 333, 479 accommodation 421-2 Nguyen Van Linh 453 Pagoda 326 first-time visitors 20-1 activities 419 Nha Trang 229, 247-63, Kh’leang Pagoda 385 itineraries 28-35, 28, drinking 423-4 Long Khanh Pagoda 240 entertainment 424 248, 250, 228-9 Long Son Pagoda 248-9 30, 33, 34-5 food 422-3 accommodation 255-7 Mahatup Pagoda 384 repeat visitors 22 shopping 424-5 activities 252-4 Munireangsey Pagoda 379 travel seasons 18, 25-7 sights 418-19 diving & snorkelling 252-3 Nghia An Hoi Quan Vietnam basics 18-19 tourist information 425 drinking 259-60 Vietnam’s regions 50-2 travel to/from 425-6 food 257-9 Pagoda 327 websites 19, 483, 498 travel within 426 shopping 260 One Pillar Pagoda of Thu Plei Thonghia 309 Sinho 135 sights 247-52 Pleiku 305-7 skin problems 502 tourist information 261 Duc 364-5 police 19, 481 smoking bans 482 tours 254 Ong Bon Pagoda 327 politics 434-5 snakes 502 travel to/from 261-2 Ong Pagoda 375 pollution 475, 501 Soc Trang 384-5 travel within 262-3 Perfume Pagoda 97 population 435, 456-8 Son La 131 Ninh Binh 154-5, 156 Phu Dung Pagoda 401 postal services 483 Son My 236 Ninh Binh province 153-62 Phung Son Pagoda 328-9 Preah Khan 431, 429 south-central Vietnam Ninh Chu Beach 265 Phuoc An Hoi Quan Preah Neak Poan 431, 429 169-226, 169 Ninh Van Bay 246-7 prickly heat 502 southeast coast 51, Nixon, Richard 448-9 Pagoda 327 public holidays 483 233-86, 234 north-central Vietnam Phuoc Lam Pagoda 209 puppetry 86, 461 accommodation 233 153-69, 154 Quan Am Pagoda 327 climate 233 northeast Vietnam 102-27 Tam Bao Pagoda 400 Q food 233 northern Vietnam 50, Tam Son Hoi Quan highlights 234 99-151, 100-1, 38 Quan Ba Pass 149 southwest highlands 51, accommodation 99 Pagoda 327 Quan Lan Island 121-2 231, 287-310, 288 climate 99 Tay An Pagoda 410 Quang Ngai 235-6 accommodation 287 food 99 Tay Ho Pagoda 69 Quang Tri 174 climate 287 highlights 100-1 Tay Phuong Pagoda 96 Quy Nhon 238-43, 239 food 287 northwest Vietnam 127-51 Thach Dong Cave highlights 288 Nui Son Tra 199-201 R travel to/from 289 Nung people 458 Pagoda 400 travel within 289 Thay Pagoda 96 rabies 501 spas O Thien Hau Pagoda 325-6 Rach Gia 387-9, 388 Ho Chi Minh City 332 Thien Mu Pagoda 189 radio 482 Hoi An 211 Oc-Eo 412 Tran Quoc Pagoda 69 rafting 42 Mui Ne 267 One Pillar Pagoda 364-5 Truc Lam Pagoda 291 religion 435, 458-9 Nha Trang 253-4 opening hours 19, 483 Tu Hieu Pagoda 190 reserves, see national outdoor activities 36-42 Van Thanh Mieu Temple Sra Srang 429, 429 parks & reserves, STDs 501 P 377 wildlife sanctuaries & stilt houses 129 Vinh Trang Pagoda 369 reserves stings 502 packing 20 Xa Loi Pagoda 323-4 responsible travel 470 sunburn 502 paddleboarding 22, 42 Xa Long Pagoda 385 Reunification Palace 322-3 surfing 40, pagodas 463, see also painting 461 rhino horn 474 parks & gardens 232 rivers 232 Bai Dai Beach 262 temples passports 485-6, 488 road distance chart 493 China Beach 202 Ambassadors’ Pagoda 68 Phan Rang 263-5 road rules 494-5 Mui Ne 268 Ang Pagoda 374 Phan Thiet 272 rock climbing 42, 116 Vung Tau 275 Bao Quoc Pagoda 182 Phare the Cambodian Cavern Pagoda 409 Circus 424 S Chuc Thanh Pagoda 209 Phat Diem 157 Phoenix Island 370-2 Sa Dec 415-16, 416 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park 10, 22, 162-7, 231, 10, 41, 227, 230

I N D E X T-Y516 Po Ro Me Cham Tower travel to/from Vietnam W 264 488-91 T walking, see trekking Po Shanu Cham towers travel within Vietnam 19, walking tours Ta Cu Mountai 273 267 491-7 Hanoi 73, 73 Ta Prohm 429, 432, 429 Preah Khan 431, 429 travellers cheques 483 Ho Chi Minh 330-1, 330 Tam Coc 157-8 Preah Neak Poan 431, trekking 24, 37-8 Temples of Angkor Tam Dao Hill Station 98 Tam Hai Island 235 429 Ba Be National Park 428-9, 428-9 Tam Son 149 Quan Cong Temple 102 Wandering Souls Day 27 Taoism 459 water, drinking 500 taxis 495 208-9 Bac Ha 146 weather 18, 25-7, see also Tay Ninh 362-4 Quan Thanh Temple 68 Bach Ma National Tay people 457 individual locations telephone services 18, Ta Prohm 429, 432, 429 Park 191 websites 19, 483, 498 Temple of Lady Xu 410 Cat Ba National Park weights 482 484-5 Temple of Literature Whale Island 245 temples 23, 463, see also 113, 116 whitewater rafting 42, 253 63-4 central Vietnam 38 wildlife 471-2 pagodas Thap Doi Cham Towers northern Vietnam 37-8 wildlife sanctuaries & Angkor temple complex safety 37 238 Sapa 137 reserves, see also  426-32, 418, 427, To Mieu Temple southern Vietnam 38 birdwatching, national 428-9, 428-9 tuberculosis 501 parks & reserves Angkor Thom 427-31, Complex 179 Tuc Dup Hill 404 Angkor Centre for 17, 429 turtles 159 Conservation of Angkor Wat 17, 426-7, 17, Tet 25, 458, 26 Tuy Hoa 244-5 Biodiversity 419 428-9 Thai people 457 TV 482 Cat Tien Bear & Wild Cat Assembly Hall of the Thanh Ha 220 typhoid 501 Rescue Station 299 Fujian Chinese Thap Cham 263-5 typhus 501 Dao Tien Endangered Congregation 207 theatre 461 Primate Species Bach Ma Temple 59 Thuan An Beach 191 U Centre 299 Bakon 432 ticks 502 Endangered Primate Banteay Srei 432 time 18, 485 U-Minh Forest 387 Rescue Center 159 Baphuon 431 tipping 21, 482-3 Turtle Conservation toilets 485 V Center 159 Bayon 428, 431, 428 tombs 23 windsurfing 40, 275, 41 Beng Mealea 432 vacations 483 women travellers 487 Buu Son Tu 384 Tomb of Khai Dinh 189 vaccinations 498, 499 women’s health 502 Cao Dai Holy See 363 Tomb of Minh Mang 188 Van Don Island 120-1 work 487 Cao Dai Temple 195 Tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau Van Long Nature Reserve Chau Phu Temple 405 X Hai Ba Trung Temple 69 410-11 158-9 Koh Ker 432 Tomb of Tu Duc 187-8 Van Phuc 96 xe om travel 495 Le Van Duyet Temple vegetarian travellers 44-5, Xeo Quyt Forest 415 Tonkinese Alps 231, 230 329 Tonlé Sap 423 466 Y Mariamman Hindu tourist information 485, Viet Cong (VC) 446 Vietnam Military History Ya Chim 309 Temple 323 see also individual Yen Chau 130 Minh Thanh Temple 306 locations Museum 66-7 Yen Minh 149-50 My Son 224-6 tours 21, 495-6, see also Vinh 160-1 yoga courses 213 Ngoc Son Temple 62 boat trips, walking Vinh Long 376-9, 377 Yok Don National Park Nham Cham Tower 244 tours Vinpearl Land 249 Ong Temple 379 Tra Ban Island 122 visas 18, 485-6 303-5 Phnom Bakheng 431 Tra Kieu (Simhapura) 226 Vo Thi Sau 283 Po Klong Garai Cham volunteering 486-7 Tra Vinh 373-6, 374, 32-3 Vung Ro Bay 246 Towers 263-4 train travel Vung Tau 275-9, 276, Po Nagar Cham Towers to/from Vietnam 491 279 247 within Vietnam 496-7 Tram Chim National Park 415 Trang An Grottoes 159 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

517 NOTES

51 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Map Legend Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Walking Tour Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour Sikh Gate Path/Walking Trail Taoist Hut/Shelter Winery/Vineyard Lighthouse Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Lookout Other Sight Mountain/Volcano International Oasis State/Province Activities, Park Disputed Courses & Tours Pass Regional/Suburb Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (National) Skiing Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Snorkelling City/Large Town Intermittent River Surfing Town/Village Canal Swimming/Pool Walking Transport Water Windsurfing Other Activity Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Border crossing Sleeping Bus Reef Cable car/Funicular Sleeping Cycling Areas Camping Ferry Metro/MRT/MTR station Airport/Runway Eating Monorail Parking Beach/Desert Eating Petrol station Skytrain/Subway station Cemetery (Christian) Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Train station/Railway Cemetery (Other) Drinking & Nightlife Tram Cafe Underground station Glacier Other Transport Entertainment Mudflat Note: Not all symbols displayed above Entertainment appear on the maps in this book Park/Forest Shopping Sight (Building) Shopping Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Nick Ray Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Wat- ford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and children, Julian and Belle. He has written for countless guide- books on the Mekong region, including Lonely Planet’s Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam books, as well as Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. When not writing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of Cambodia as a location scout and manager for the world of television and film, including everything from Tomb Raider to Top Gear. Motorbikes are a part-time passion and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels. Read more about Nick at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/nickjray Benedict Walker Hanoi Currently hanging by the beach near his Mum, in hometown Newcastle (Australia), Ben is living his dreams, travelling the world for LP. So far, Ben has contributed to Lonley Planet’s Japan, Canada, Florida, Australia and Germany guidebooks. This is his first time writing for the Vietnam team. Otherwise, he’s written and directed a play, toured Australia managing travel for rock stars and is an avid photographer toying with his original craft of filmmaking. He’s an advo- cate of following your dreams – they can come true. For updates, see www.wordsandjourneys.com. Contributing Authors Andrea Nyugen wrote the Regional Specialities content in the Eat & Drink Like a Local chapter. Andrea is the acclaimed author of Into the Vietnamese Kitchen and Asian Tofu. She also publishes Vietworldkitchen.com.

OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Iain Stewart Coordinating Writer, Southeast Coast Iain Stewart has been visiting Vietnam since 1991 and has explored virtually every province in the country over the years. This is the fourth edition of Lonely Planet Vietnam he’s contributed to and the third as co-ordinating writer. Travelling the highway between Vung Tau and Tam Hai was some road (and rail) trip, taking in the full spectrum of Vietnam’s stunning coastal scenery and numerous memorable meals. Iain also wrote the Plan and Understand chapters, Survival Guide and the Scenes of Vietnam colour section. Read more about Stewart at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stewpot Brett Atkinson Central Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City For more than 20 years, Brett has been explor- ing one of his favourite countries, and his latest Vietnam sojourn spanned street food and history in Hue and Hoi An, the thrilling cave systems of Phong Nha, and the irresistible urban buzz of Ho Chi Minh City. Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand and has covered more than 50 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his most recent work and upcoming travels. Brett also wrote the Eat & Drink Like a Local and the Food & Drink chapters. Read more about Brett at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brettatkinson Anna Kaminski Southwest Highlands, Mekong Delta A big fan of two-wheeled travel, Anna fell hard for the picturesque lanes of the Mekong Delta and the hills of the South- west Highlands in years past and remains smitten. Given the food, the friendly locals, and ample indigenous culture, there’s little surprise that southern Viet- nam remains one of her favourite destinations. Having previously lived in and backpacked all over Southeast Asia, on this occasion Anna explored the Delta’s forgotten corners and motorbiked part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Anna tweets at @ACKaminski. Jessica Lee Northern Vietnam Jessica first came to Vietnam in the late 90’s and has visited several times since then. This trip saw her road-tripping the winding highways of the northwest, up into the mountains of Ha Giang province, and then down to the bustle of Halong Bay – along the way, drinking more caphe sua da than is probably recommended. When she’s not travelling, Jess lives in the Middle East, and has also contributed to Lonely Planet’s guidebooks to Turkey, Egypt and Cambodia. OVER MORE Read more about Jessica at: PAGE WRITERS http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/jessicalee1 Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 13th edition – August 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum ISBN 978 1 74321 872 3 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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