449 TRACKING THE AMERICAN WAR H is to ry N i x on & H is D octrine The American War in Vietnam was the story for a generation. Follow in the footsteps of sol- diers, journalists and politicians on all sides with a visit to the sites where the story unfolded. China Beach The strip of sand near Danang where US soldiers dropped in for some rest and relaxation. Cu Chi Tunnels The Vietnamese dug an incredible and elaborate tunnel network to evade American forces, just 30km from Saigon and right under the noses of a US base. Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) The no-man’s land at the 17th Parallel, dividing North and South Vietnam. After 1954, it became one of the most heavily militarised zones in the world. Ho Chi Minh Trail The supply route for the South; the North Vietnamese moved soldiers and munitions down this incredible trail through the Truong Son Mountains in an almost unparalleled logistical feat. Hue Citadel The ancient Citadel was razed to the ground during street-to-street fighting in early 1968 when the Americans retook the city from the communists after a three- week occupation. Khe Sanh This was the biggest smokescreen of the war, as the North Vietnamese massed forces around this US base in 1968 to draw attention away from the Tet Offensive. Long Tan Memorial The Australian contingent who fought in Vietnam, mostly based near Vung Tau in the south, is remembered here with the Long Tan Memorial Cross. My Lai The village of My Lai is infamous as the site of one of the worst atrocities in the war, when American GIs massacred hundreds of villagers in March 1968. Vinh Moc Tunnels The real deal: these tunnels haven’t been surgically enlarged for tour- ists and they mark yet another feat of infrastructural ingenuity. This new escalation provoked violent anti-war protests in the US and elsewhere. A peace demonstration at Kent State University in Ohio re- sulted in four protesters being shot dead. The rise of organisations such as Vietnam Veterans Against the War demonstrated that it wasn’t just those fearing military conscription who wanted the USA out of Vietnam. It was clear that the war was tearing America apart. In the spring of 1972, the North Vietnamese launched an offensive across the 17th Parallel; the USA responded with increased bombing of the North and by laying mines in North Vietnam’s harbours. The ‘Christ- mas bombing’ of Haiphong and Hanoi at the end of 1972 was calculated to wrest concessions from North Vietnam at the negotiating table. Even- tually, the Paris Peace Accords were signed by the USA, North Vietnam, South Vietnam and the VC on 27 January 1973, which provided for a 1972 1973 1975 1976 The North Vietnamese All sides put pen to On 30 April 1975, Sai- The Socialist Re- cross the Demilitarised paper to sign the gon falls to the North public of Vietnam is Zone (DMZ) at the 17th Vietnamese, as the last proclaimed as Saigon parallel to attack South Paris Peace Accords Americans scramble to is re-named Ho Chi Vietnam and US forces on 27 January 1973, Minh City. Hundreds of in what became known stipulating an end to leave the city. thousands flee abroad, as the Easter Offensive. including many boat hostilities, but the conflict rumbles on. people.
H is to ry O ther F oreign I nvolvement450 ‘WE WERE WRONG’ Commentators and historians have since observed that if Washington had allowed Viet- nam’s long history of successfully repelling invaders to deter it, the extensive tragedy of this war might have been averted, and likewise the resulting social disruption in America, as people sought to come to terms with what had happened in Vietnam. An entire gen- eration of Americans had to assess its conduct. Years later, one of the architects of the war, former Defense Secretary Robert NcNamara, stated in his memoir, ‘We were wrong, terribly wrong. We owe it to future generations to explain why’. The Paris Peace ceasefire, the total withdrawal of US combat forces and the release of 590 Accords of American POWs. The agreement failed to mention the 200,000 North Vietnamese troops still in South Vietnam. 1973 included a provision for US teams continue to search Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia for the US reparations remains of their fallen comrades. In more recent years, the Vietnamese have been searching for their own MIAs in Cambodia and Laos. to Vietnam totalling US$3.5 Other Foreign Involvement billion, and this became the main Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, the Philippines and Thailand also stumbling block sent military personnel to South Vietnam as part of what the Americans to normalising called the ‘Free World Military Forces’, whose purpose was to help inter- relations in 1978. nationalise the American war effort in order to give it more legitimacy. No money has ever been paid to Australia’s participation in the conflict constituted the most signifi- cant commitment of its military forces since WWII. Of the 46,852 Aus- Vietnam. tralian military personnel who served in the war, casualties totalled 496, with 2398 soldiers wounded. Most of New Zealand’s contingent, which numbered 548 at its highest point in 1968, operated as an integral part of the Australian Task Force, which was stationed near Baria, just north of Vung Tau. The Fall of the South Most US military personnel departed Vietnam in 1973, leaving behind a small contingent of technicians, advisors and CIA agents. The bombing of North Vietnam ceased and the US POWs were released. Still the war rumbled on, only now the South Vietnamese were fighting alone. In January 1975, the North Vietnamese launched a massive ground attack across the 17th Parallel using tanks and heavy artillery. The inva- sion provoked panic in the South Vietnamese army, which had always depended on US support. In March, the NVA occupied a strategic section of the central highlands at Buon Ma Thuot. South Vietnam’s president, 1978 1979 1980s 1986 Vietnamese forces China invades northern During the decade Doi moi (economic invade Cambodia on Vietnam in February Vietnam receives reform), Vietnam’s an- Christmas Day 1978, in a retaliatory attack nearly $3 billion a swer to perestroika and sweeping through the against Vietnam’s year in economic the first step towards shattered country and overthrow of the and military aid from later overthrowing the the Soviet Union and re-engaging with the Khmer Rouge govern- Khmer Rouge, but the trades mostly with the West, is launched with Vietnamese emerge USSR and eastern bloc ment on 7 January relatively unscathed. a rash of economic 1979. Thousands of ethnic nations. reforms. Chinese flee Vietnam.
451 Nguyen Van Thieu, decided on a strategy of tactical withdrawal to more The majority of H is to ry R e u nification of V ietnam defensible positions. This was to prove a spectacular military blunder. Vietnamese ‘boat people’ who fled Whole brigades of ARVN soldiers disintegrated and fled southward, the country in the joining hundreds of thousands of civilians clogging Hwy 1. City after city – late 1970s were Hue, Danang, Quy Nhon, Nha Trang – were simply abandoned with ethnic Chinese hardly a shot fired. The ARVN troops were fleeing so quickly that the whose wealth and North Vietnamese army could barely keep up. business acumen, to say nothing of Nguyen Van Thieu, in power since 1967, resigned on 21 April 1975 and fled the country, allegedly carting off millions of dollars in ill-gotten their ethnicity, wealth. The North Vietnamese pushed on to Saigon and on the morning made them an of 30 April 1975, their tanks smashed through the gates of Saigon’s Inde- obvious target for pendence Palace. General Duong Van Minh, president for just 42 hours, the revolution. formally surrendered, marking the end of the war. Neil Sheehan’s account of the life Just a few hours before the surrender, the last Americans were evac- of Colonel John uated by helicopter from the US embassy roof to ships stationed just Paul Vann, Bright offshore. Harrowing images of US Marines booting Vietnamese people Shining Lie, won off their helicopters were beamed around the world. And so more than a quarter of a century of American military involvement came to a close. the Pulitzer Throughout the entire conflict, the USA never actually declared war on Prize and is the North Vietnam. portrayal of one The Americans weren’t the only ones who left. As the South collapsed, man’s disen- 135,000 Vietnamese also fled the country; over the next five years, at chantment with least half a million of their compatriots would do the same. Those who the war, mirroring left by sea would become known to the world as ‘boat people’. These America’s realisa- refugees risked everything to undertake perilous journeys on the South tion it could not China Sea, but eventually some of these hardy souls found new lives in places as diverse as Australia and France. be won. Reunification of Vietnam On the first day of their victory, the communists changed Saigon’s name to Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). This was just for starters. The sudden success of the 1975 North Vietnamese offensive surprised the North almost as much as it did the South. Consequently, Hanoi had no detailed plans to deal with the reintegration of the North and South, which had totally different social and economic systems. The party faced the legacy of a cruel and protracted war that had frac- tured the country. There was bitterness on both sides, and a daunting series of challenges. Damage from the fighting was extensive, includ- ing anything from unmarked minefields to war-focused, dysfunctional economies; from a chemically poisoned countryside to a population who were physically or mentally scarred. Peace may have arrived, but the struggle was far from over. 1989 1991 1992 1994 Vietnamese forces Vietnam, a hard A new constitution is The US trade embargo pull out of Cambodia currency–starved drawn up which allows on Vietnam, in place in September as the nation, opens its doors in the North since Soviet Union scales to tourism in a bid to selective economic back its commitment boost its finances. reforms and freedoms. 1964 and extended to The first backpackers the reunified nation to its communist arrive, though tough However, the Com- partners. Vietnam is at restrictions apply to munist Party remains since 1975, is revoked peace for the first time as relations begin to travel. the leading force in normalise. in decades. Vietnamese society and politics.
452 H is to ry C hina & the K hmer R o u ge THE COST OF WAR In total, 3.14 million Americans (including 7200 women) served in Vietnam. Officially, 58,183 Americans were killed in action or listed as missing in action (MIA). The direct cost of the war was officially put at US$165 billion, though its real cost to the economy was likely to have been considerably more. By the end of 1973, 223,748 South Vietnamese soldiers had been killed in action; North Vietnamese and VC fatalities have been estimated at one million. Approximately four million civilians (or 10% of the Vietnamese population) were injured or killed during the war. At least 300,000 Vietnamese and 2200 Americans are still listed as MIA. For a human per- Until the formal reunification of Vietnam in July 1976, the South spective on the was ruled by the Provisional Revolutionary Government. The Com- North Vietnamese munist Party did not trust the South’s urban intelligentsia, so large experience during numbers of Northern cadres were sent southward to manage the tran- the war, read The sition. This fuelled resentment among Southerners who had worked Sorrow of War against the Thieu government and then, after its overthrow, found by Bao Ninh, a themselves frozen out. poignant tale of love and loss The party opted for a rapid transition to socialism in the South, but that suggests the it proved disastrous for the economy. Reunification was accompanied soldiers from the by widespread political repression. Despite repeated assurances to the North had the contrary, hundreds of thousands of people who had ties to the previous same fears and regime had their property confiscated and were rounded up and impris- desires as most oned without trial in forced-labour camps, euphemistically known as American GIs. re-education camps. Tens of thousands of business people, intellectuals, artists, journalists, writers, union leaders and religious leaders – some of whom had opposed both the Southern government and the war – were held in terrible conditions. Contrary to its economic policy, Vietnam sought a rapprochement with the USA, and by 1978 Washington was close to establishing rela- tions with Hanoi. But the China card was ultimately played: Vietnam was sacrificed for the prize of US relations with Beijing, and Hanoi moved into the orbit of the Soviet Union, on whom it was to rely for the next decade. China & the Khmer Rouge Relations with China to the north and its Khmer Rouge allies to the west were rapidly deteriorating. War-weary Vietnam felt encircled by enemies. An anti-capitalist campaign was launched in March 1978, seizing pri- vate property and businesses. Most of the victims were ethnic Chinese – 1995 2003 2004 2006 Vietnam joins the As- Crime figure Nam The first US commer- Vietnam plays host sociation of South-East Can is sentenced to cial flight since the end to the glitzy APEC Asian Nations (ASEAN), death for corruption, (Asia-Pacific Eco- embezzlement, kidnap of the American War an organisation and murder; the case touches down in Ho Chi nomic Cooperation) originally founded as a implicates dozens of summit, welcomes US bulwark against the ex- police and politicians. Minh City. pansion of communism president George W Bush, and prepares to in the region. join the World Trade O rganization.
hundreds of thousands soon became refugees or ‘boat people’, and rela- 453 H is to ry O pening the D oor tions with China soured further. Vietnam re- ceived nearly Meanwhile, repeated attacks on Vietnamese border villages by the $3 billion a year Khmer Rouge forced Vietnam to respond. Vietnamese forces entered in Soviet Union Cambodia on Christmas Day 1978. They succeeded in driving the Khmer aid throughout Rouge from power on 7 January 1979 and set up a pro-Hanoi regime in the 1980s, and Phnom Penh. China viewed the attack on the Khmer Rouge as a seri- most of its ous provocation. In February 1979, Chinese forces invaded Vietnam and trade was with fought a brief, 17-day war before withdrawing. other socialist countries, from Liberation of Cambodia from the Khmer Rouge soon turned to oc- Cuba to Czecho- cupation and a long civil war, which exacted a heavy toll on Vietnam. slovakia. Russian The command economy was strangling the commercial instincts of Vi- and Vietnamese etnamese rice farmers. Today, one of the world’s leading rice exporters, politicans would Vietnam was a rice importer back in the early 1980s. War and revolution seal deals at had brought the country to its knees and a radical change in direction restaurants such was required. as Maxim’s in Ho Chi Minh City Opening the Door with Bulgarian wine and Havana In 1985, President Mikhael Gorbachev came to power in the Soviet Union. Glasnost (openness) and perestroika (restructuring) were in, cigars. radical revolutionaries were out. Vietnam followed suit in 1986 by choosing reform-minded Nguyen Van Linh to lead the Vietnamese Communist Party. Doi moi (economic reform) was experimented with in Cambodia and introduced to Vietnam. As the USSR scaled back its commitments to the communist world, the far-flung outposts were the first to feel the pinch. The Vietnamese decided to unilaterally with- draw from Cambodia in September 1989, as they could no longer af- ford the occupation. The party in Vietnam was on its own and needed to reform to survive. However, dramatic changes in Eastern Europe in 1989 and the col- lapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 were not viewed with favour in Hanoi. The party denounced the participation of non-communists in Eastern bloc governments, calling the democratic revolutions ‘a counter-attack from imperialist circles’ against socialism. Politically, things were moving at a glacial pace, but economically the Vietnamese decided to embrace the market. Capitalism has since taken root, and Vietnam joined ASEAN in 1995. Relations with Vietnam’s old nemesis, the USA, have also vastly im- proved. In early 1994, the USA lifted its economic embargo, which had been in place against the North since the 1960s. Full diplomatic relations were restored and presidents Bill Clinton and George W Bush have sub- sequently visited Hanoi. 2009 2010 2013 2015 Pro-democracy Hanoi celebrates its General Giap, architect Vietnam marks the activists are jailed for 1000th birthday in Oc- of the victory at Dien 40th anniversary of tober with exhibitions, Bien Phu and military reunification with mas- ‘spreading propa- sive military parades. ganda against the and wild celebrations commander during the government’ by actions grip the capital; its American War, dies at including hanging the age of 102. Millions pro-democracy ban- imperial Citadel is de- pay their respects ners on a road bridge clared a Unesco World across the nation. and publishing articles Heritage site. on the internet.
4 5 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd People & Culture Industrious, proud, stubborn and yet mischievous, quick to laugh and fond of a joke, the Vietnamese are a complicated bunch. For Westerners, the national character can be difficult to fathom: direct questions are frequently met with evasive answers. A Viet- namese person would never tell a relative stranger their life story or profound personal thoughts the way people sometimes share feelings in the West. Their deep respect for tradition, family and the state reflects core Confucian principles. Shadows and The National Psyche Wind (1999), by journalist Robert Historically the national mentality has been to work as a team, in har- mony rather than in conflict; but times are changing. If you’re on the Templer, is a highway or doing business, it’s everyone for themselves. It’s these atti- snappily written tudes (towards traffic and commerce) that many outsiders, not just West- exploration of erners, find most alien. ‘Face’ is vital, and Vietnamese people hate giving contemporary way, often employing elaborate tactics of bluster and bluff (and cunning) Vietnam, from Ho to ensure they get where they want to go. Chi Minh per- My Generation sonality cults to Vietnam’s rock- In many ways Vietnam is still a traditional, conservative society, par- and-roll youth. ticularly for the older generation, who remember the long, hard years and every inch of the territory for which they fought. Brought up on restraint and moderation, many remain unmoved by 21st-century con- sumer culture. For the new generation, Vietnam is very different: a place to succeed and to ignore the staid structures set by the Communists. And yes, to show off that gleaming new motorbike, sharp haircut or iPhone. North–South Divide The north–south divide lingers on. It’s said that Southerners think, then do; while Northerners think, then think some more. Southerners typi- cally reckon Northerners have ‘hard faces’, that they take themselves too seriously and don’t know how to have fun. Northerners are just as likely to think of Southerners as superficial, frivolous and business-obsessed. C aricatures these may be, but they shed light on the real differences be- BROTHERS OR MATES? There are few places on earth where terms of address are as important as Vietnam. To use the wrong term can be a gross insult, disrespectful, or just a little too casual depend- ing on the circumstances. Age and status are key factors. Three men, all strangers, get chatting in a bar. Dzung is in his mid-20s, Vinh in his mid-30s, Huong is in his 40s. They quickly work out they have broadly similar social backgrounds. The correct way for Dzung to refer to Vinh is anh (big brother), but he should call Huong chu (uncle). He should also refer to himself as em (little brother) when speaking to Vinh but chau (nephew) to Huong. Unless they are being very modern (or very merry!) and all decide to use the term ban (friend).
tween north and south that reach beyond the (very different) regional 455People & Culture Lifest yle dialects. Dancing Girl, directed by Le Climate plays its part too. Life is easier in the south, where the fertile Hoang, caused Mekong Delta allows three rice harvests a year. The north endures a long a major splash winter of grey skies, drizzle, mist and cool winds. Think of the differences with its release between northern and southern Europe (or Maine and Alabama) and in 2003. It tells you have a snapshot of how one people can become two. Don’t forget that the story of two the north has also lived with communism for more than half a century, HIV-positive while the south had more than two decades of free-wheelin’ free-for-all prostitutes, and with the Americans. Hoa (played by My Duyen) is Face seen mainlining Face is all important in Asia, and in Vietnam it is above all. Having ‘big heroin. face’ is synonymous with prestige, and prestige is particularly important. All families, even poor ones, are expected to have elaborate wedding par- Vietnamese who ties and throw their money around like it’s water in order to gain face. have emigrated This is often ruinously expensive, but far less distressing than ‘losing are called Viet face’. Kieu. They have traditionally been Foreigners should never lose their tempers with the Vietnamese; this will bring unacceptable ‘loss of face’ to the individual involved and end maligned by any chance of a sensible solution to the dispute. Similarly, it’s also not locals as cow- culturally acceptable for Vietnamese traders to shout at, tug or pressure ardly, arrogant tourists when trying to do a deal. Hustlers can adopt these tactics during and privileged. a hard sell. Walk on. However the official policy is Lifestyle now to welcome them, and their Traditionally, Vietnamese life has revolved around family, fields and money, back to faith, with the rhythm of rural existence continuing for centuries at the the motherland. same pace. All this has been disrupted by war, the impact of communism and globalisation. Whilst it’s true that several generations may still share the same roof, the same rice and the same religion, lifestyles have changed immeasurably. Vietnam is experiencing its very own ’60s swing, which is creating feisty friction as sons and daughters dress as they like, date who they want and hit the town until all hours. But few live on their own and they still come home to Mum and Dad at the end of the day, where arguments might arise, particularly when it comes to marriage and settling down. Some things never change. Most Vietnamese despise idleness and are early risers. You’ll see parks full of t’ai chi devotees as dawn breaks, and offices are fully staffed by 7am. Indeed the whole nation seems super- charged with energy and vitality, no matter how hot and humid it is. Family In Vietnam the status of your family is more important than your salary. A family’s reputation commands respect and opens doors. Extended family is important to the Vietnamese and that includes sec- ond or third cousins, the sort of family that many Westerners may not even realise they have. The extended family comes together during times of trouble and times of joy, celebrating festivals and successes, mourning deaths or disappointments. This is a source of strength for many of the older generation. Business Practices Western visitors regularly complain about the business practices of many Vietnamese they encounter, which can range from mild price hiking to outright scamming. For many foreigners it’s the most off-putting aspect of their visit to the nation. At times it seems impossible to get the local price for anything. A little background is important.
Peo ple & C u lt u re T h e P e o pl e o f V i e t n a m456 WHEN IN NAM… DO AS THE VIETS Take your time to learn a little about the local culture in Vietnam. Here are a few tips to help you go native. Dress code Respect local dress standards: shorts to the knees, women’s tops covering the shoulder, particularly at religious sites. Remove your shoes before entering a temple. Topless or nude sunbathing is totally inappropriate. It’s on the cards Exchanging business cards is an important part of even the smallest transaction or business contact. Hand them out like confetti. Deadly chopsticks Leaving a pair of chopsticks sitting vertically in a rice bowl looks very much like the incense sticks that are burned for the dead. This is not appreciated anywhere in Asia. Mean feet Remove shoes when entering somebody’s home. Don’t point the bottom of your feet towards other people. Never, ever point your feet towards anything sacred, such as a Buddha image. Hats off to them As a form of respect to elderly or other esteemed people, such as monks, take off your hat and bow your head politely when addressing them. The head is the symbolic highest point – never pat or touch a person on the head. Failing businesses Most of these rapacious individuals work in tourism; chronic over- often call in a charging is rare once you’re off the main banana pancake trail. The men- tality is that Westerners do not bother to learn the real price, don’t learn geomancer (feng Vietnamese and are only in the country for a week or two. For years, shui expert). many Vietnamese have only thought about the short term – about mak- ing a fast buck. Steadily the concept has grown that good service will Sometimes the bring repeat business (and bad service will be all over internet forums solution is to immediately). move a door or a window. If this It’s not an excuse, but Vietnam is a unique country. Famine killed 2 doesn’t do the million in the 1940s, and the country was among the poorest of the poor trick, it might following the American War. Vietnam’s tourism industry is still young be necessary to and the Vietnamese state actually helped forge this overcharging men- move an ances- tality – until relatively recently the government set separate local and tor’s grave. foreign rates (which were four to 10 times more) for everything from train fares to hotel rooms. The People of Vietnam Vietnamese culture and civilisation have been profoundly influenced by the Chinese, who occupied the country for 1000 years and whose culture deeply permeates Vietnamese society. History has of course influenced the mix of Vietnamese minorities. The steady expansion southwards in search of cultivable lands absorbed first the Kingdom of Champa and later the eastern extent of the Khmer Empire; both the Chams and the Khmers are sizeable minorities today. Traffic was not only one-way. Many of the 50 or more minority groups that live in the far northwest only migrated to these areas from Yun- nan (China) and Tibet in the past few centuries. They moved into the mountains that the lowland Vietnamese considered uncultivable, and help make up the most colourful part of the ethnic mosaic that is Viet- nam today. The largest minority group in Vietnam has always been the ethnic- Chinese community, which makes up much of the commercial class in the cities. The government has traditionally viewed them with suspicion, and many left the country as ‘boat people’ in the 1970s. But today they play a major part in economic development.
457 Minorities Paradise of the Peo ple & C u lt u re T h e P e o pl e o f V i e t n a m Blind, by Duong Vietnam is home to 53 ethnic minority groups (around 14 million Thu Huong, was people). Most live in northern Vietnam, carving an existence out of the the first Vietnam- lush mountain landscapes along the Chinese and Lao borders. ese novel to be published in the Some groups have lived in Vietnam for millennia, while the Hmong USA. It is set in a migrated south from China in the past few centuries. Each has its own northern village language, customs, mode of dress and spiritual beliefs. and a Hanoi slum, and recalls the The government has long encouraged hill tribes to shift to lower alti- tudes and adopt wet-rice agriculture and the cultivation of cash crops, lives of three tea and coffee, with incentives such as subsidised irrigation, better edu- women and the cation and health care. But the hill tribes’ long history of independence hardships they keep many away from the lowlands. faced over some In the far north, many hill-tribe women still wear incredible hand- 40 years. woven costumes – some girls start to learn to embroider before they can walk. In the central highlands attachment to traditional dress is rarer. Prejudices against hill tribe people endure. Attitudes are changing slowly but the Vietnamese media can still present them as primitive and exotic. It’s also not uncommon for Vietnamese people to still see minor- ities as subversive (some sided with the USA during the American War). The reality is that minority people remain at the bottom of the edu- cational and economic ladder. Despite improvements in rural schooling and regional healthcare, many hill tribe people marry young, have large families and die early. According to 2015 World Health Organisation fig- ures, poor minority households account for 50% of all Vietnam’s poor households (yet only number 14% of the population). Minority Groups These are some of the main minority groups in Vietnam: Tay (population 1.6 million) Live at low elevations between Hanoi and the Chinese border. They adhere closely to Vietnamese beliefs in Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism, but many also worship genies and local spirits. Tay literature and arts are famous throughout Vietnam. Thai A large group (population 1.5 million) with origins in southern China, they set- tled along fertile riverbeds between Hoa Binh and Muong Lay. Villages consist of thatched houses built on bamboo stilts. The Thai minority are usually categorised by colour: Red, Black and White Thai. Black Thai women wear vibrantly coloured blouses and headgear. Muong Mainly concentrated in Hoa Binh province, the male-dominated Muong (population 1.4 million) live in small stilt-house hamlets and are known for their folk literature, poems and music (performed with gongs, drums, pan pipes, flutes and two-stringed violin). Hmong Around a million Hmong are spread across the far northern mountains. Most are animists, cultivating dry rice and raising animals. Each Hmong group – Black, White, Red, Green and Flower – has its own dress code. ETHINIC MINORITY VILLAGES Vietnam’s minorities are spread throughout highland areas in the north and west of the country. Sapa Red Dzao and Black Hmong live in the dramatic valleys around town. Bac Ha Famous for its market, which draws Flower Hmong from far and wide. Mai Chau Beautiful valley base of the White Thai, with many homestays. Cao Bang Rugged highland region where Hmong, Nung and Tay people live. Kon Tum Traditional Bahnar settlements and homestays. Bho Hoong Remote village with homestays that’s in Co Tu heartland.
458 Peo ple & C u lt u re R e ligi o n Nung This tribe (population 800,000) live in small villages in the far northeastern During the provinces; their culture combines ancestral worship and a talent for handicrafts, including basketry. American War, Jarai These people (population 350,000) of the south-central highlands still many minorities practise animistic rituals, paying respect to their ancestors and nature through a were enrolled in host or yang (genie). Jarai cemeteries are elaborate, including carved totem-style the Civil Irregular effigies of the deceased. Defense Program Sedang The 150,000 Sedang of the south-central highlands do not carry family (CIDG), part of names, and there’s said to be complete equality between the sexes. Sedang customs include grave abandonment and giving birth at the forest’s edge. the US Army Special Forces. Religion Some fighters later formed mili- Many Vietnamese are not very religious and some surveys indicate that tias and resisted only 20% of the population consider themselves to have a faith. That Hanoi rule well said, over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have fused into the 1980s. with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to create the Tam Giao (Triple Religion) that many Vietnamese identify with. Christianity, present in Vietnam for 500 years, and Cao Daism (unique to the region) are other important religions. Buddhism The predominant school of Buddhism in Vietnam is Mahayana Bud- dhism (Dai Thua or Bac Tong, meaning ‘From the North’). The largest Mahayana sect in the country is Zen (Dhyana or Thien), also known as the school of meditation. Dao Trang (the Pure Land school), another im- portant sect, is practised mainly in the south. Theravada Buddhism (Tieu Thua or Nam Tong) is found mainly in the Mekong Delta region, and is mostly practised by ethnic Khmers. TET: THE BIG ONE Tet is Christmas, New Year and birthdays all rolled into one. Tet Nguyen Dan (Festival of the First Day) ushers in the Lunar New Year and is the most significant date in the Vietnamese calendar. It’s a time when families reunite in the hope of good fortune for the coming year, and ancestral spirits are welcomed back into the family home. And the whole of Vietnam celebrates a birthday; everyone becomes one year older. The festival falls between 19 January and 20 February, the same dates as Chinese New Year. The first three days after Tet are the official holidays but many people take the whole week off. Tet rites begin seven days before New Year’s Day. Altars, laden with offerings, are pre- pared to ensure good luck in the coming year. Cemeteries are visited and the spirits of dead relatives invited home for the celebrations. Absent family members return home. It’s important that the new year is started with a clean slate; debts are paid and cleaning becomes the national sport. A New Year’s tree (cay neu) – kumquat, peach or apricot blossom – is displayed to ward off evil spirits. At the stroke of midnight on New Year’s Eve, all problems are left behind and mayhem ensues. The goal is to make as much noise as possible: drums and percussion fill the night air. The events of New Year’s Day are crucial as it’s believed they affect the year ahead. People take extra care not to be rude or show anger. Other activities that are believed to attract bad spirits include sewing, sweeping, swearing and breaking things. It’s crucial that the first visitor of the year to each household is suitable – a wealthy married man with several children is ideal. Foreigners may not be considered auspicious! Apart from New Year’s Eve itself, Tet is a quiet family affair – banh chung (sticky rice with pork and egg) is eaten at home. Shops are closed, and virtually all transport ceases to run. It’s a troublesome time to travel in Vietnam. However you’re sure to be invited to join the celebrations. Just remember this phrase: chuc mung nam moi – Happy New Year!
Taoism 459Peo ple & C u lt u re R e ligi o n In recent years, Taoism (Lao Giao or Dao Giao) originated in China and is based on the vast new Bud- philosophy of Laotse (Old One), who lived in the 6th century BC. dhist temples Understanding Taoism is not easy. The philosophy values contempla- have been tion and simplicity. Its ideal is returning to the Tao (the Way, or the es- constructed, sence of which all things are made), and it emphasises am and duong, including Chua the Vietnamese equivalents of yin and yang. Bai Dinh (near Ninh Binh), while Confucianism giant new Buddha statues now de- More a philosophy than an organised religion, Confucianism (Nho Giao fine the coastline or Khong Giao) has been an important force in shaping Vietnam’s social of Danang and system and the lives and beliefs of its people. Vung Tao. Confucius (Khong Tu) was born in China around 550 BC. His code laid down a person’s obligations to family, society and the state, which remain the pillars of the Vietnamese nation today. Cao Daism Cao Daism is an indigenous Vietnamese religion founded in the 1920s that fuses the secular and religious philosophies of both East and West. Its prophets include Buddha, Confucius, Jesus Christ, Moses and Mohammed, and some wacky choices, such as Joan of Arc, William Shakespeare and Victor Hugo. There are thought to be between two and three million followers of Cao Daism in Vietnam. Its colourful headquarters are in Tay Ninh, north- west of HCMC. Hoa Hao Buddhism The Hoa Hao Buddhist sect (Phat Giao Hoa Hao) was founded in the Mekong Delta in 1939 by Huynh Phu So. His Buddhist philosophies in- volve simplicity in worship and no intermediaries between humans and the Supreme Being. Christianity Catholicism was introduced in the 16th century by missionaries. Today, Vietnam has the second-highest concentration of Catholics (8% to 10% of the population) in Asia. Protestantism was introduced to Vietnam in 1911 and most of the 200,000 or so followers today are hill tribe people in the central h ighlands. Islam Around 70,000 Muslims, mostly ethnic Chams, live in Vietnam, mainly in the south of the country. Traditionally, most Cham Muslims followed a localised adaptation of Islam (praying only on Fridays), though more orthodox Muslim practices have now been adopted. Hinduism There are around 60,000 Cham living in Vietnam who identify them- selves as Hindus. They predominantly live in the same region as Cham Muslims, concentrated around Phan Rang on the south-central coast.
460 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Arts & Architecture Vietnam has a fascinating artistic and architectural heritage. Historically, the nation has absorbed influences from China, India and the Khmer kingdoms and fused them with in- digenous traditions. Then the French, Americans and Soviet Union left their mark. Today, contemporary artists and architects look across the globe for inspiration. Arts Traditional Music Vietnam’s traditional music uses the five note (pentatonic) scale of Chi- nese origin. Folk tunes are usually sung without any instrumental ac- companiment (and have been adapted by the Communist Party for many a patriotic marching song). Indigenous instruments include the dan bau, a single-stringed zither that generates an astounding array of tones, and the trung, a large bam- boo xylophone. Vietnam’s minorities use distinctive instruments: reed flutes, gongs and stringed instruments made from gourds. Contemporary Music Vietnam’s contemporary music scene is diverse and influenced by trends in the West and east Asia. As all artists are monitored by the govern- ment, subjects which could be deemed subversive are largely avoided (or heavily coded). V-pop girl and boy bands like 365 and YO!Girls with heavily stylised looks and choreographed moves are wildly popular with teenagers. There’s a small but growing hip-hop scene, with HCMC-born Suboi (who has over a million Facebook likes and two albums under her belt) acknowledged as Vietnam’s leading female artist; she raps to eclectic beats including dubstep rhythms. Vietnam’s electronic scene is dominated by commercial DJs playing EDM. Club DJs are hampered by government policies (such in advance as producing track lists and translated lyrics – not easy for house and techno!). However HCMC’s Heart Beat (www.heartbeatsaigon.com) pro- motes excellent underground events around the city. In the north, the Quest Festival (www.questfestival.net) pioneers electronic music, as well as indie and acoustic acts. Hot bands include rock band Microwave, metal merchants Black In- finity, the punk band Giao Chi and also alt-roots band 6789. Trinh Cong Son, who died in 2001, was a prolific writer-composer of anti-war and reconciliation songs; he was once called the Bob Dylan of Vietnam by Joan Baez. Dance Traditionally reserved for ceremonies and festivals, Vietnamese folk dance is again mainstream thanks to tourism. The Conical Hat Dance is visually stunning: women wearing ao dai (the national dress of Vietnam) spin around, whirling their classic conical hats.
Theatre 461Arts & Architecture Arts A Good Scent Vietnamese theatre fuses music, singing, recitation, dance and mime from a Strange into an artistic whole. Classical theatre is very formal, employing fixed Mountain by Rob- gestures and scenery and has an accompanying orchestra (dominated by ert Olen Butler is the drum) and a limited cast of characters. a compelling col- lection of short Popular theatre (hat cheo) expresses social protest through satire. The stories focusing singing and verse include many proverbs accompanied by folk melodies. on the struggles Modern theatre (cai luong) shows strong Western influences. Spoken of Vietnamese drama (kich noi or kich), with its Western roots, appeared in the 1920s emigrants in and is popular among students and intellectuals. America Vietnamese theatre is performed by dozens of state-funded troupes and companies around the country. Puppetry Conventional puppetry (roi can) and the uniquely Vietnamese art form of water puppetry (roi nuoc) draw their plots from the same legendary and historical sources as other forms of traditional theatre. Water puppetry was first developed by farmers in northern Vietnam, who manipulated wooden puppets and used rice paddies as a stage. There are water-puppet theatres in both Hanoi and HCMC. Painting Painting on frame-mounted silk dates from the 13th century. It was orig- inally the preserve of scholar-calligraphers, who painted grand works inspired by nature and realistic portraits for use in ancestor worship. Much recent work has had political rather than aesthetic or artistic motives – some of this propaganda art is now highly collectable. Some young artists have gone back to the traditional-style silk or lacquer paint- ings, while others experiment with contemporary subjects. Hanoi and Hoi An have some great galleries. Literature Traditional oral literature (truyen khau) includes legends, folk songs and proverbs while Sino-Vietnamese literature was dominated by Confucian and Buddhist texts and governed by strict rules of metre and verse. From the late-13th century, nom characters began to used: the earliest text written was Van Te Ca Sau (Ode to an Alligator). One of Vietnam’s literary masterpieces, Kim Van Kieu (The Tale of Kieu) was written by Nguyen Du (1765–1820), a poet, scholar, mandarin and diplomat. Contemporary writers include Nguyen Huy Thiep, who articulates the experiences of Vietnamese people in The General Retires and Other Stories while Duong Van Mai Elliot’s memoir, The Sacred Willow: Four Generations in the Life of a Vietnamese Family was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize. Cinema One of Vietnam’s earliest cinematographic efforts was a newsreel of Ho Chi Minh’s 1945 Proclamation of Independence. Prior to reunification, the South Vietnamese movie industry produced a string of sensation- al, low-budget flicks. Conversely, North Vietnamese film-making efforts were very propagandist. Contemporary films span a wide range of themes, from warfare to modern romance. In Nguyen Khac’s The Retired General (1988), the cen- tral character copes with adjusting from his life as a soldier to that of a civilian family man. Dang Nhat Minh is perhaps Vietnam’s most prolific film-maker. In The Return (1993), he hones in on the complexities of modern relationships,
Arts & Architecture Architecture462 CONTEMPORARY LGBT FILMS Important Vietnamese films featuring powerful LGBT narratives have recently been released. Vu Ngoc Dang’ s 2011 Lost In Paradise is an empathetic portrayal of a country boy seeking a new life in HCMC, while the excellent Hanoi-set 2014 Flapping in the Middle of Nowhere, directed by Hoang Diep Nguyen, deals with sexual obsession and features a transgender character. The latter won best film at the Venice International Critics Week. Colonial while The Girl on the River (1987) tells the stirring tale of a female jour- Style nalist who joins an ex-prostitute in search of her former lover, a Viet Cong soldier. Balconies Grace important munici- For a look at the impact of doi moi (economic reform), Vu Xuan Hung’s Misforutune’s End (1996) tells the tale of a silk weaver who is deserted by pal buildings. her husband for a businesswoman. Louvered win- Overseas-Vietnamese films include Tran Anh Hung’s touching The dows Usually Scent of Green Papaya (1992) which celebrates the coming of age of a green or brown. young servant girl in Saigon. Cyclo (1995), his visually stunning mas- terpiece, cuts to the core of HCMC’s gritty underworld and its violent Stucco features existence. Decorative flourishes. Vietnamese-American Tony Bui made a splash with his exquisite fea- ture debut Three Seasons (1999); it was set in HCMC and featured Har- Colour Ochre/pale vey Keitel. mustard. Architecture Terracotta roof tiles Traditional Vietnamese architecture is unusual, as most important build- ings are single-storey structures with heavy tiled roofs based on a sub- Mediterranean- stantial wooden framework (to withstand typhoons). style. In rural parts, houses are chiefly constructed from timber and built in stilted style, so that the home is above seasonal floods (and away from snakes and wild animals). Bamboo and palm leaves (for roofing) are also well suited to the tropical monsoon climate. Homes are usually divided into sections for sleeping, cooking and storage, while livestock live below the house. Quirky Vietnamese styles include the narrow tube houses of Hanoi’s Old Quarter – the government collected tax according to the width of the space, so the slimmer the cheaper. The Nung minority people’s homes are also unusual, sometimes built with mud walls and with only one part elevated on stilts. Consider the Vietnamese saying ‘land is gold’ as you survey a typical townscape today. Skinny concrete blocks of dubious architectural merit, many up to seven storeys high, soar above empty lots or loom above pad- dy fields. Planning laws (or the virtual lack of them) allow land owners to build whatever they like, so cement constructions painted lime green or pink, kitted out with mirror windows, and built with vaguely French- inspired ornate balconies or Chinese details are quite common. Colonial Buildings Vietnam’s French legacy is pronounced in the nation’s architecture. Stately neoclassical buildings reinforced notions of European hegemony in the colonial era, and many still line grand city boulevards. After the 1950s, most of these were left to rot as they symbolised an era many Vietnamese wished to forget. However recent renovation pro- grams have led to structures, such as the former Hôtel de Ville (People’s Committee Building) in Ho Chi Minh City and the Sofitel Metropole Hotel in Hanoi, being restored to their former glory. In HCMC, stop to ad- mire the spectacular halls and vaulted ceiling of the central post office –
463 designed by Gustave Eiffel (of tower fame). Haiphong is another city with Soviet architec- Arts & Architecture Architecture wonderful French designs. tural influence is deeply evident In Hanoi’s French Quarter, many grand villas have fallen on hard in Vietnam. Key times and are today worth a fortune to developers. Meanwhile in Dalat, buildings include French villas have been converted into hotels; these include the classy Ana Mandara Villas; stately Dalat Hotel du Parc with its grand facade; Ho Chi Minh’s and the shock-and-awe colonial magnificence of the Dalat Palace Hotel. Mausoleum in Hanoi and the Colonial churches were built in a range of architectural styles. In Ha- Reunification noi, the sombre neo-Gothic form of St Joseph is enhanced by dark grey Palace in Ho Chi stone, whereas all the bricks used to construct Ho Chi Minh City’s cathe- dral were imported from France. Minh City. Art deco curiosities built under French rule include Dalat’s wonder- Pagoda ful train station, with its multicoloured windows, and the sleek La Resi- Features dence Hotel in Hue. Bodhisattvas Pagodas & Temples Enlightened earthly Vietnamese religious structures do not follow a specific national proto- figures. type. Pagoda styles echo the unique religious make-up of the nation, with Cheung Huang strong Chinese content (including Confucian, Tao and Mahayana Bud- Yeh Feared God of dhist elements), while southern Cham temples reflect influences from India, Hindu culture and the Khmer empire. the City. Quan Am Goddess Pagodas (chua) incorporate Chinese ornamentation and motifs, with buildings grouped around garden courtyards and adorned with statues of Mercy. and stelae. Most have single or double roofs with elevated hip rafters, Swastika Sacred though there are some with multi-tiered towers (thap) like Hue’s Thien symbol signifying Mu Pagoda. the heart of the Vietnamese pagodas are designed according to feng shui (locally called Buddha. dia ly) to achieve harmony of surroundings. They’re primarily Buddhist Thien Hau places of worship, even though they may be dedicated to a local deity. Goddess providing Most are single-storey structures, with three wooden doors at the front. protection at sea. Inside are a number of chambers, usually filled with statues of Buddhas, bodhisattvas and assorted heroes and deities (Thien Hau, Goddess of the Sea, is popular in coastal towns). Flashing fairy lights, giant smoking incense spirals, gongs and huge bells add to the atmosphere. Garden courtyards, many with sculptures and some with a sacred pond (perhaps filled with turtles), connect to other temple structures, and there’s often accommodation for monks at the rear. Check out Hanoi’s Temple of Literature for a superb example of a tra- ditional Vietnamese temple or the wonderful pagodas in Hue. Cham Style The Cham primarily practised the Hindu religion, though some elements of Buddhism were also incorporated. Temple-building commenced as early as the 4th century. Most Cham temples were built from brick, with decorative carvings and detailing probably added later. Principal features included the kalan (tower, the home of the deity), saddle-roofed kosagrha temples (which housed valuables belonging to the gods) and the gopura gateway. Dot- ting the temple sites are stone statues of deities and numerous stelae with inscriptions listing important events. Important Cham sights include My Son, Po Nagar, Po Klong Garai and Po Shanu.
46 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Food & Drink Prepare to be amazed by Vietnam’s cuisine. From traditional street stalls to contem- porary big-city temples of upscale dining, the country serves up an endless banquet of exquisite eating. The best Diverse landscapes – fertile highlands, waterlogged rice paddies, forest- way to tackle cloaked mountains and sandy coasts – lend the cuisine variety, while a Vietnamese long history of contact with outsiders brings complexity. Over the cen- cuisine head-on turies locals have adapted Chinese, Indian, French and Japanese tech- is to sign up for niques and specialities to their own palates. a cooking course during your stay. The country’s vast range of excellent edibles invites experimentation. Courses have Though Vietnam’s well-known classics – pho, spring rolls and shrimp really taken off in paste grilled on sugar cane – are all good and tasty, it pays to venture recent years, and into the backstreets and markets and chow down on the street with the many courses locals, as that’s where you’ll often find the most authentic food. also incorporate a market visit to Flavours purchase essen- tial ingredients. Vietnamese palates vary from north to south, but no matter where they are, local cooks work to balance hot, sour, salty and sweet flavours in each dish. Saltiness Vietnamese food’s saltiness comes from, well, salt, but also from the fer- mented seafood sauces that grace the shelves of every Vietnamese pan- try. The most common is nuoc mam (fish sauce), which is so elemental to the cuisine that, sprinkled over a bowl of rice, it’s considered a meal. Nuoc mam is made from small fish (most often anchovies) that are lay- ered with salt in large containers, weighted to keep the fish submerged in their own liquid, and left in a hot place for up to a year. As they fer- ment, the fish release a fragrant (some might say stinky) liquid. The first extraction, called nuoc mam cot, is dark brown and richly flavoured – essentially an ‘extra virgin’ fish sauce reserved for table use. The second extraction, obtained by adding salted water to the already fermented fish is used for cooking. Phu Quoc Island is famous for its nuoc mam, though some cooks prefer the milder version made around coastal Phan Thiet. Sweetness Sugar’s centrality to the cuisine is best illustrated by the ever popular kho, a sweet-savoury dish of fish or meat simmered in a clay pot with fish sauce and another oft-used seasoning – bitter caramel sauce made from cane sugar. Vietnamese cooks also use sugar to sweeten dipping sauces, desserts and, of course, coffee. Sourness Sweetness is countered with fruity tartness, derived from lime (to squeeze into noodle soups and dipping sauces) and from kalamansi (a small, green-skinned, orange-fleshed citrus fruit), the juice of which is combined with salt and black pepper as a delicious dip for seafood,
465 meats and omelettes. In the south, tamarind is added as a souring agent Food & Drink Flavours to a fish-and-vegetable soup called canh chua, and to a delectable dish of whole prawns coated with sticky, sweet-and-sour sauce called tom rang me. Northern cooks who seek sourness are more likely to turn to vine- gar. A clear, yellowish vinegar mixed with chopped ginger is often served alongside snail specialities such as bun oc (rice noodle and snail soup). Herbs Vietnamese food is often described as ‘fresh’ and ‘light’ owing to the plates heaped with gorgeous fresh herbs that seem to accompany every meal. Coriander, mint and anise-flavoured Thai basil will be familiar to anyone who’s travelled in the region. Look also for green-and-garnet perilla leaves; small, pointy, pleasantly peppery, astringent rau ram leaves; and rau om (rice-paddy herb), which has delicate leaves that hint of lemon and cumin. Rau om invariably shows up atop bowls of canh chua. Shallots, thinly sliced and slowly fried in oil until caramelised, add a bit of sweetness when sprinkled on salad and noodle dishes. Chilli & Pepper Vietnamese cooking uses less hot chilli than Thai cuisine, though it’s a key ingredient in central Vietnamese meals. Local chillies vary from the mild-flavoured, long, red, fleshy variety that appears in many south- ern dishes and is served chopped to accompany noodles, to the smallish pale-chartreuse specimen served as an accompaniment in restaurants specialising in Hue cuisine. Beware: the latter really packs a punch. Dried ground chillies and spicy chilli sauces are tabletop condiments in many a central Vietnamese eatery. Vietnam is a huge peppercorn exporter, and ground black and white peppercorns season everything from chao (rice porridge) to beef stew. Wonderfully pungent, Vietnamese black peppercorns put what’s sold in supermarkets back home to shame; if your country will allow it in, a half-kilogram bag makes a fine edible souvenir. Fish Flavours When it comes to fermented fish products, nuoc mam is only the tip of the iceberg. Mam tom is a violet (some would also say violent!) paste of salted, fermented shrimp. It’s added to noodle soups, smeared onto rice- paper rolls, and even serves as a dip for sour fruits like green mango. It also lends a pungent salty backbone to specialities like bun mam (a southern fish-and-vegetable noodle soup). Mam tom has many versions in Vietnam, including ones made from crabs, shrimp of all sizes and various types of fish. Try to get past the odour and sample a range of dishes made with it: the flavour it lends to food is much more subtle than its stench might imply. HABITS & CUSTOMS Enter the Vietnamese kitchen and you’ll be convinced that good food comes from sim- plicity. Essentials consist of a strong flame, basic cutting utensils, a mortar and pestle, and a well-blackened pot or two. The kitchen is so sacred that it is inhabited by its own deity, Ong Tao (Kitchen God). Offerings are always left in the kitchen for the spiritual guardian of the hearth, and every kitchen has an Ong Tao altar, considered to be the most important object in the kitchen. When ordering from a restaurant menu don’t worry about the succession of courses. All dishes are placed in the centre of the table as soon as they’re ready and diners serve themselves. If it’s a special occasion, the host may drop a morsel or two into your rice bowl.
466 Fo o d & D ri n k Sta p l e s Fish flavours also come from dried seafood. Vietnamese cooks are Kim Fay’s quite choosy about dried shrimp, with market stalls displaying up to 15 grades. You’ll also find all sorts and sizes of dried fish, both whole and Communion – A in fillets, and dried squid. The latter is often barbecued and sold from Culinary Journey roving stalls. Through Vietnam Sauces, Spices & Curries offers a real insight into Viet- Vietnamese cooks use quite a few sauces, such as soy, oyster and fer- nam’s wonderful mented soybean – culinary souvenirs of China’s almost 1000-year rule food scene as the over the country’s north. Warm spices like star anise and cinnamon are author travels the essential to a good pho. nation, shifting from street-food Curries were introduced to Vietnam by Indian traders; now they’re cooked stalls to exquisite up using locally made curry powder and paste packed in oil. Vietnamese cur- seafood restau- ries, such as ca ri ga (chicken curry cooked with coconut milk and lemon- rants. Engaging grass) and lau de (curried goat hotpot), tend to be more aromatic than fiery. text is accompa- nied by recipes Staples and photographs. Rice Rice, or com, is the very bedrock of Vietnamese cuisine. In imperial Hue, rice with salt was served to distinguished guests by royal mandarins; these days locals eat at least one rice-based meal every day and offer a bowl of rice to departed ancestors. If a Vietnamese says ‘an com’ (literally ‘let’s eat rice’), it’s an invitation to lunch or dinner. You can also get your fill of the stuff, accompanied by a variety of stir-fried meat, fish and vegetable dishes, at specialised, informal eateries called quan com binh dan. Cooked to a soupy state with chicken, fish, eel or duck, rice becomes chao (rice porridge); fried in a hot wok with egg, vegetables and other in- gredients, it’s com rang; and ‘broken’ into short grains, steamed, topped with barbecued pork, an egg, and sliced cucumber, and accompanied by nuoc cham (a dipping sauce of sweetened fish sauce), it’s com tam. Tiny clams called hen are sautéed with peppery Vietnamese coriander and ladled over rice to make com hen. Sticky or glutinous rice (white, red and black) is mixed with pulses or rehydrated dried corn, peanuts and sesame seeds for a filling break- fast treat called xoi (ngo in central Vietnam). It can also be mixed with sugar and coconut milk then moulded into sweet treats, or layered with pork and steamed in bamboo or banana leaves for banh chung, a Tet speciality. Soaked and ground into flour, rice becomes the base for everything from noodles and sweets to crackers and the translucent ‘papers’ that Vi- etnamese moisten before using to wrap salad rolls and other specialities. VEGETARIANS & VEGANS The good news is that there is now more choice than ever before when it comes to vegetarian dining. The bad news is that you have not landed in Veg Heaven, for the Viet- namese are voracious omnivores. While they dearly love veggies, they also adore much of what crawls on the ground, swims in the sea or flies in the air. However, there are vegetarian (com chay) establishments in most towns, usually near Buddhist temples. Often these are local, simple places popular with observant Buddhists. Many use ‘mock meat’, tofu and gluten, to create meat-like dishes that can be quite delicious. In keeping with Buddhist precepts, many vendors and eateries go vegetarian on the 1st and 15th days of each lunar month; this is a great time to scour the markets and sam- ple dishes that would otherwise be off-limits. Otherwise, be wary. Any dish of vegetables may well have been cooked with fish sauce or shrimp paste.
Noodles 467Fo o d & D ri n k Sta p l e s A legacy of the Noodles are an anytime-of-day Vietnamese meal or snack. Pho is made French, banh with banh pho (flat rice noodles), and though this northern dish gets all mi refers to the the culinary press, the truth is that truly fine versions, featuring a rich, crackly crusted carefully made broth are hard to come by. Other northern-style noodle rice- and wheat- dishes worth seeking out include bun cha, barbecued sliced pork or pork flour baguettes patties served with thin rice vermicelli, and banh cuon, stuffed noodle sold everywhere sheets that recall Hong Kong–style noodle rolls. (eaten plain If you’re a noodle lover, look for dishes featuring bun, the round rice or dipped in noodles that are a central element in bun bo Hue, a spicy, beef speciality beef stew and from central Vietnam. Other characteristically central Vietnamese noo- soups), and the dle dishes include my quang, a dish of rice noodles tinted yellow with sandwiches annatto seeds or pale pink (if made from red rice flour) topped with made with them, pork, shrimp, slivered banana blossoms, herbs and chopped peanuts, stuffed with and doused with just enough broth to moisten. It’s eaten with rice crack- meats, veggies ers (crumbled over to add crunch) and sweet hot chilli jam. and pickles. If you haven’t tried Cao lau, a noodle dish specific to the ancient port town of Hoi An, stuffed banh mi, features thick, rough-textured noodles that are said to have origins in you haven’t eaten the soba noodles brought by Japanese traders. It’s moistened with just a in Vietnam. smidge of richly flavoured broth, then topped with slices of stewed pork, blanched bean sprouts, fresh greens and herbs, and crispy square ‘crou- tons’ made from the same dough as the noodles. Southerners lay claim to a number of noodle specialities as well, such as the cool salad noodle bun thit nuong and bun mam, a strong fish- flavoured rice-noodle broth that includes tomatoes, pineapple and bac ha (a thick, spongy plant stem). (An identically named but significant- ly more challenging dish of cool rice noodles, bean sprouts and herbs dressed with straight nuoc mam is found in central Vietnam.) Across Vietnam, keep an eye open also for banh hoi, very thin rice- flour noodles that are formed into delicate nests and eaten rolled with grilled meat in leafy greens. Chinese-style egg noodles (mi) are thrown into soups or fried and topped with a stir-fried mixture of seafood, meats and vegetables in gravy for a dish called mi xao. Mien (bean-thread noo- dles) made from mung-bean starch are stir-fried with mien cua (crab meat) and eaten with steamed fish. Rice-Paper Rolls Vietnamese will wrap almost anything in crackly rice paper. Steamed fish and grilled meats are often rolled at the table with herbs, lettuce and slices of sour star fruit and green banana, and dipped in nuoc cham. Fat goi cuon, a southern speciality popularly known as ‘salad’ or ‘summer’ rolls, contain shrimp, pork, rice noodles and herbs and are meant to be dipped in bean paste or hoisin sauce. Bo pia, thin rice-paper cigars filled with slices of Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, cooked jicama (a crisp root vegetable), lettuce and chilli paste, are usually knocked up to order by street vendors with mobile carts. Hue has its own version of the spring roll: soft, fresh nem cuon Hue, filled with sweet potato, pork, crunchy pickled prawns, water spinach and herbs. And then there’s nem ran ha noi, northern-style, crispy, deep- fried spring rolls. Meat, Fish & Fowl Chicken and pork are widely eaten. In the mornings, the tantalising aroma of barbecuing nuoc mam–marinated pork, intended to fill break- fast baguette sandwiches and top broken rice, fills the air of many a city street. Beef is less frequently seen but does show up in bowls of pho, in kho bo (beef stew with tomato), in thit bo bit tet (Vietnamese pan-seared beefsteak), and wrapped in la lot (wild pepper leaves) and grilled. Other
468 Fo o d & D ri n k Sta p l e s sources of protein include goat (eaten in hotpots with a curried broth) Keep an eye out and frogs. for sinh to stalls stocked with a Thanks to Vietnam’s long coastline and plentiful river deltas, seafood variety of fruits is a major source of protein. From the ocean comes fish such as tuna, (including avo- pomfret, red snapper and sea bass, as well as prawns, crabs and clams. cado, which the In Vietnam, seafood restaurants always keep their catch live in tanks or Vietnamese treat bowls, so you can be assured it’s ocean fresh. as a fruit rather than a vegetable) Flooded rice paddies yield minuscule crabs and golf-ball-sized snails and a blender, called oc. In northern Vietnam, the former go into bun rieu cua, thin where you can rice noodles in a crimson-hued broth made from tomatoes and pulverised treat yourself crab shells; on top floats a heavenly layer of crab fat sautéed with shallots. to a refreshing blended- Snails can be found in bun oc, or chopped with lemongrass and herbs, to-order iced stuffed into the snail shells and steamed, for oc nhoi hap la xa (a sort of fruit smoothie. It Vietnamese escargot). A length of lemongrass leaf protrudes from each doesn’t get much snail shell – give it a tug to pull out the meat. fresher than that. Other favourite freshwater eats include the well-loved ca loc (snake- head fish), catfish, and, along the central coast, hen (small clams). The latter are eaten with rice in hen com, in broth with noodles, or scooped up with rice crackers (banh da). Vegetables & Fruit Vegetables range from the mundane – tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants (de- licious grilled and topped with ground pork and nuoc mam), cucumbers, asparagus – to the exotic. Banana blossoms and lotus-flower stems are made into goi (salads), a thick, spongy plant stem called bac ha is added to soups, and thien ly, a wild plant with tender leaves and fragrant blos- soms, is eaten stir-fried with garlic. Bunches of sunshine-yellow squash blossoms are a common sight in southern markets; locals like them sim- ply stir-fried with garlic. All sorts of delicious wild mushrooms sprout on forest floors during the rainy season, and if you’re off the beaten track, then you might also be treated to tender fern tips, which, like the more common rau mu- ong (water spinach), get the stir-fry treatment. Especially loved are leafy greens such as lettuce, watercress and mustard, which Vietnamese use to wrap banh xeo (crispy pork and shrimp pancakes) into bite-sized parcels suitable for dipping in nuoc mam. If you’re a fruit lover you’ve come to the right place. Depending on when you’re travelling, you’ll be able to gorge on mangoes, crispy and sour green or soft and tartly floral pink guavas, juicy lychees and lon- gans, and exotic mangosteen, passionfruit and jackfruit. Hue cooks treat young jackfruit as a vegetable, boiling the flesh (which tastes like a cross between artichoke and asparagus), shredding it, dressing it with fish sauce, scattering the lot with sesame seeds, and serving the dish (called nom mit non) with rice crackers. Tamarind is a typically southern in- gredient; it also sauces shelled or unshelled prawns in tom rang me – a messy but rewarding sweet-tart dish. Sweets Do ngot (Vietnamese sweets) and do trang mieng (desserts) are popu- lar everywhere, and are especially prevalent during festivals when you’ll encounter sweet varieties of banh (traditional cakes). Rice flour is the base for many desserts, sweetened with sugar and coconut milk and en- riched with lotus seeds, sesame seeds and peanuts. Yellow mung beans are also used, while the French influence is evident in crème caramel. Cold sweets, like kem (ice cream), thach, lovely layered agar-agar jellies in flavours such as pandan and coffee-and-coconut, and locally made sweetened yoghurt sold in small glass pots, hit the spot on steamy days.
469 VIETNAMESE COFFEE CULTURE Fo o d & D ri n k D r ink s Enjoying a Vietnamese coffee is a tradition that can’t be rushed. A glass tumbler, topped with a curious aluminium top is placed before you while you crouch on a tiny blue plastic chair. A layer of condensed milk on the bottom of the glass is gradually infused with coffee lazily drop, drop, dropping from the aluminium top. Minutes pass, and eventually a darker caffeine-laden layer floats atop the condensed milk. Stir it together purposefully – maybe pouring it over ice in a separate glass – and it’s definitely an energising ritual worth waiting for. And while you’re waiting, consider the caphe variations usually on offer in a Vietnamese cafe. Caphe sua da Iced coffee with condensed milk Caphe da Iced coffee without milk Caphe den Black coffee Caphe sua chua Iced coffee with yoghurt Caphe trung da Coffee topped with a beaten egg white Che are sweet ‘soups’ that combine ingredients like lotus seeds or Northerners tapioca pearls and coconut milk. They’re also a scrumptious shaved-ice favour hot green treat, for which a mound of ice crystals with your choice of toddy palm tea, while in the seeds, bits of agar-agar jelly, white or red beans, corn, and other bits is south the same is doused with coconut milk, condensed milk, sugar syrup or all three. The often served over combination of beans, corn and sweet liquid might sound strange, but in big chunks of ice. addition to being delicious, che is surprisingly refreshing. Chrysanthemum Drinks and jasmine infusions are also You’re unlikely to go thirsty in Vietnam where, thanks to a healthy drink- popular. Particu- ing culture, there exists all manner of beverages, including plenty of beer. larly delicious is a Sooner or later every traveller succumbs to bia hoi (‘fresh’ or draught beer) – local brands are served straight from the keg by the glass for a pit- fragrant non- tance from specialist stands on street corners. If you’re looking to pay a lit- caffeinated tea tle more, Saigon and Huda are decent, and La Rue, brewed on the central made from lotus coast is quite good. In Ho Chi Minh City, the Pasteur Street Brewing Com- pany (p347) has excellent craft beer often incorporating local ingredients seeds. like kaffir lime, jackfruit, and fragrant peppercorns from Phu Quoc Island. While imported liquor can be expensive, Vietnam brews a number of its own spirits, including a drinkable, dirt-cheap vodka called Ha Noi. Distilled sticky-rice wine called ruou is often flavoured with herbs, spic- es, fruits and even animals. Travel to the northern highlands and you may be offered ruou can, sherry-like rice wine drunk through long bam- boo straws from a communal vessel. And you’ll undoubtedly encounter ruou ran (snake wine), supposedly a cure-all elixir. Cobras and many other snakes in Vietnam are officially listed as endangered, a fact that producers rarely heed. In Vietnam, the preparation, serving and drinking of tea (tra in the south and che in the north) has a social importance seldom appreciated by Western visitors. Serving tea in the home or office is more than a gesture of hospitality; it is a ritual. Vietnam is also a major coffee producer, and whiling away a morning or an afternoon over glasses of iced coffee, with or without milk (caphe sua da or caphe da) is something of a ritual for Vietnam’s male population. Other liquid options in Vietnam include mia da, a freshly squeezed sugar-cane juice that’s especially refreshing served over ice with a squeeze of kalamansi; sinh to (fresh-fruit smoothies blended to order); and soy milk.
470 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Environment Vietnam is one of the most diverse countries on earth, with tropical lowlands, intensely cultivated rice-growing regions, a remarkable coastline and karst mountains. But due to population pressure, poverty and a lack of environmental protection, many regions, and the nation’s wildlife, are under threat. The Landscape As the Vietnamese are quick to point out, their nation resembles a don ganh, the ubiquitous bamboo pole with a basket of rice slung from each end. The baskets represent the main rice-growing regions of the Red River Delta in the north and the Mekong Delta in the south. The country bulges in the north and south and has a very slim waistline – at one point it’s only 50km wide. Mountain ranges define most of Vietnam’s western and northern borders. Coast & Islands Vietnam’s extraordinary 3451km-long coastline is one of the nation’s big- gest draws and it doesn’t disappoint, with sweeping sandy beaches, tow- ering cliffs, undulating dunes and countless offshore islands. The largest of these islands is Phu Quoc in the Gulf of Thailand; others include Cat Ba and Van Don, the 2000 or so islets of Halong Bay, a spattering of dots off Nha Trang, and the fabled Con Dao Islands way out in the South China Sea. River Deltas The Red River and Mekong River deltas are both pancake-flat and prone to flooding. Silt carried by the Red River and its tributaries, confined to their paths by 3000km of dykes, has raised the level of the river beds above the surrounding plains. The Mekong Delta has no such protection, so when cuu long (‘the nine dragons’, ie the nine channels of the Mekong in the delta) burst their banks, it creates havoc for communities and crops. RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL ¨¨Consider shunning elephant rides. Working elephants are still illegally trapped and conservation groups have grave concerns about their living conditions, as well as the detrimental effects elephant rides have on the animal’s health. ¨¨When snorkelling or diving be careful not to touch coral as this hinders its growth. ¨¨Avoid touching limestone formations as it affects their development and turns the limestone black. ¨¨Most ‘exotic’ meats such as porcupine and squirrel have been illegally poached from national parks. ¨¨Many civets are kept in appalling conditions to produce ‘poo coffee’. ¨¨Before downing snake wine or snake blood consider that the reptiles (sometimes endangered species) are killed without anaesthesia and can carry salmonella.
471 KARST YOUR EYES E Wildlife Karsts are eroded limestone hills, the result of millennia of monsoon rains that have shaped towering tooth-like outcrops pierced by fissures, sinkholes, caves and under- ground rivers. Northern Vietnam contains some of the world’s most impressive karst mountains, with stunning landscapes at Halong Bay, Bai Tu Long Bay, around Ninh Binh and in the Phong Nha region. At Halong and Bai Tu Long bays, an enormous limestone plateau has dramatically eroded so that old mountain tops stick out of the sea like bony vertical fingers pointing towards the sky. Phong Nha’s cave systems are on an astonish- ing scale, stretching for tens of kilometres deep into the limestone land mass. Highlands Tram Chim Na- tional Park in the Three-quarters of the country consists of rolling hills (mostly in the Mekong Delta is south) and mighty mountains (mainly in the north), the highest of which one of Vietnam’s is 3143m Fansipan, close to Sapa. The Truong Son Mountains, which most important form the southwest highlands, run almost the full length of Vietnam wetland reserves, along its borders with Laos and Cambodia. The coastal ranges near Nha Trang and those at Hai Van Pass (Danang) are composed of granite, and and home to the giant boulders littering the hillsides are a surreal sight. The western the giant sarus part of the southwest highlands is well known for its fertile, red volcanic crane, which can soil. However, Northern Vietnam’s incredible karst formations are prob- measure up to ably the nation’s most iconic physical features. 1.8m in height. In October 2013 Wildlife customs officials We’ll start with the good news. Despite some disastrous bouts of de- in Haiphong forestation, Vietnam’s flora and fauna is still incredibly exotic and varied. found more than Intensive surveys by the World Wildlife Fund along the Mekong River (including the Vietnamese section) found a total of 1068 new species two tonnes of from 1997 to 2007, placing this area on Conservation International’s list elephant tusks of the top five biodiversity hot spots in the world. Numerous areas inside and marine turtle Vietnam remain unsurveyed or poorly known, and many more species shells hidden in are likely to be found. a consignment The other side of the story is that despite this outstanding diversity, labelled the threat to Vietnam’s remaining wildlife has never been greater due to ‘seashells’. poaching, hunting and habitat loss. Three of the nation’s iconic animals – the elephant, saola and tiger – are on the brink. It’s virtually certain that the last wild Vietnamese rhino was killed inside Cat Tien National Park in 2010. And for every trophy animal there are hundreds of other less ‘head- line’ species that are being cleared from forests and reserves for the sake of profit (or hunger). Many of the hunters responsible are from poor minority groups who have traditionally relied on the jungle for their survival. Animals Vietnam has plenty to offer those who are wild about wildlife, but in re- ality many animals live in remote forested areas and encountering them is extremely unlikely. With a wide range of habitats – from equatorial lowlands to high, tem- perate plateaus and even alpine peaks – the wildlife of Vietnam is enor- mously diverse. One recent tally listed 275 species of mammals, more than 800 birds, 180 reptiles, 80 amphibians, hundreds of fish and tens of thousands of invertebrates, but new species are being discovered at such a rapid rate that this list is constantly being revised upward. Rare and little-known birds previously thought to be extinct have been spotted and no doubt there are more in the extensive forests along the
472 E N ation a l Pa r k s William DeBuys’ Lao border. Edwards’s pheasant, previously believed to be extinct, was The Last Unicorn: found on a scientific expedition, and other excursions have yielded the A Search for One white-winged wood duck and white-shouldered ibis. of Earth’s Rarest Even casual visitors will spot a few bird species: swallows and swifts Creatures is flying over fields and along watercourses; flocks of finches at roadsides about searching and in paddies; and bulbuls and mynas in gardens and patches of forest. Vietnam is on the east-Asian flyway and is an important stopover for for the saola migratory waders en route from Siberian breeding grounds to their Aus- and written by tralian winter quarters. a Pulitzer Prize Endangered Species finalist. Vietnam’s wildlife has been in significant decline as forest habitats are Twitchers with a destroyed, waterways polluted and hunting continues with minimal serious interest checks. Captive-breeding programs may be the only hope for some, but in the birdlife of rarely are the money and resources available for such expensive efforts. Vietnam should carry a copy of Officially, the government has recognised 54 species of mammal and Birds of South- 60 species of bird as endangered. Larger animals at the forefront of the east Asia (2005) country’s conservation efforts include elephant, tiger, leopard, black bear, by Craig Robson, honey bear, snub-nosed monkey, flying squirrel, crocodile and turtle. In which includes the early 1990s, a small population of Javan rhinoceroses, the world’s rar- thorough cover- est rhino, was discovered in Cat Tien National Park. Twenty years later age of Vietnam. they had all been wiped out. However, there have been some successful stories. The Siamese croco- dile, extinct in the wild due to excessive hunting and cross-breeding, has been reintroduced to Cat Tien and is now thriving. Wildlife populations have also re-established themselves in reforested areas, and birds, fish and crustaceans have reappeared in replanted mangroves. National Parks Vietnam has 31 national parks, from Hoang Lien in the far north to Mui Ca Mau on the very southern tip of Vietnam and over 150 nature re- serves. Officially, 9% of the nation’s territory is now protected. Levels of infrastructure and enforcement vary widely but every park has a ranger station. You can hire a ranger to guide you in most parks. The management of national parks is a continuing source of conflict because Vietnam is still figuring out how to balance conservation with the needs of the adjoining rural populations (many of them minority people). Rangers are often vastly outnumbered by villagers who rely on ON THE BRINK Vietnam’s native elephant species has been listed as endangered since 1976. The govern- ment announced the creation of three conservation areas to help protect wild elephants (in Pu Mat, Cat Tien and Yok Don national parks) in June 2013, but as the Forestry depart- ment estimates that less than 100 elephants remain in the wild, many see the action as too little, too late. Only discovered in 1992, the saola is a large antelope-like wild ox and is only found in the Annamite mountains of Vietnam and Laos. Surviving numbers are thought to be in the hundreds. Conservation groups are working with minority people in the area to remove tens of thousands of snares from their forest habitat. For more information, con- sult www.savethesaola.org. It’s estimated that around 350 Indochinese tigers remain in the region, of which be- tween 30 and 70 are in Vietnam. As they are in isolated pockets, their long-term chances are not great. Tigers are particularly vulnerable because of their value in the illegal trade in tiger parts for ‘traditional’ medicine.
473 TOP 10 NATIONAL PARKS PARK FEATURES ACTIVITIES BEST TIME TO VISIT Ba Be lakes, rainforest, water- Apr-Nov falls, towering peaks, hiking, boating, Bai Tu Long caves, bears, langurs bird-watching Bach Ma karst peaks, tropical swimming, surfing, boat- Apr-Nov E Environm e nta l I s s u e s Cat Ba evergreen forest, caves, ing, kayaking, hiking hidden beaches Cat Tien hiking, bird-watching Feb-Sep Con Dao waterfalls, tigers, Cuc Phuong primates hiking, swimming, Apr-Aug bird-watching Hoang Lien jungle, caves, trails, langurs, boars, deer, jungle exploration, Nov-Jun Phong Nha-Ke Bang waterfowl hiking Nov-Jun Yok Don Nov-Feb primates, elephants, bird-watching, snorkel- birdlife, tigers ling, diving dugongs, turtles, endangered-primate beaches viewing, hiking jungle, grottoes, hiking, cycling, Sep-Nov, Apr & May primates, bird-watching bird-watching, mountain centre, caves climbing Apr-Sep Nov-Feb mountains, birdlife, boat trips, caving, minority communities kayaking, hiking caves, karsts elephant rides, hiking stilt houses, minority communities forests for food and income. Some parks now use high-tech mapping Fauna & Flora software to track poaching and logging activity. International (www.fauna-flora. If you can, try to visit the more popular parks during the week. For org) produces the many locals a trip to a park is all about having a good time, and noise and excellent Nature littering can be a part of the weekend scene. Tourism Map of Vietnam, which Many parks have accommodation and a restaurant; you should always includes detailed call ahead and order food in advance though. coverage of all the national parks Environmental Issues in the country. All proceeds from Vietnam’s environment is not yet in intensive care, but it’s reaching crisis sales of the map level on several fronts. As a poor, densely populated country, the govern- go towards sup- ment’s main priorities are job creation and economic growth. There’s porting primate minimal monitoring of pollution and dirty industries, while loggers and conservation in animal traffickers are all too often able to escape trouble through bribery and official inaction. Quite simply, the environment is a low priority de- Vietnam. spite the government signing up to key conservation treaties. Deforestation Deforestation is a key issue. While 44% of the nation was forested in 1943, by 1983 only 24% was left and in 1995 it was down to 20%. Recent reforestation projects have increased cover since then, but these mostly consist of monocultural plantations of trees (like acacia for furniture) in straight rows that have little ecological merit. Plantations accounted for around 16% of all forest cover by 2015.
E Environm e nta l I s s u e s474 RHINO HORN & VIETNAM The international pressure around the use of rhino horn is growing; in 2013, the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and Traffic (the wildlife trade monitoring network) launched a cam- paign in Vietnam to counter its sale and consumption, declaring that the country needed to ‘clean up its act’. Demand for rhino horn has increased in recent years in Vietnam, spurred by super- stitions and old wives’ tales about rhino horn doing everything from increasing libido to curing cancer. Using rhino horn is also considered something of a status symbol for some of the emerging wealthy class. Some utterly deluded individuals even consider it a hangover-cure. Even the tragic news about the extinction of the rhino in Vietnam has failed to curb demand. With tens of thousands of dollars being paid per kilo of horn, traffickers have simply switched their attention elsewhere. Vietnamese gangs have stolen dozens of antique rhino horns from museum displays across Europe, sometimes at gunpoint. And in South Africa, home to over 70% of all the world’s rhinos, there’s been a rhino-poaching crisis. In 2007, 13 rhinos were killed in the country. By 2014 authorities reported a staggering 1215 rhinos had been killed (one every eight hours). According to the Environmental Investigation Agency, groups including Al- Shabaab are selling rhino horn to fund terrorism. Vietnam is the world’s largest user of rhino horn. A media campaign – public-service announcements on national radio, TV and internet lobbying – is ongoing to try to change mindsets and make the consumption of rhino horn unacceptable in Vietnam. In September 2014, a new campaign called ‘Chi’ was launched, backed by Save the Rhino International (www.savetherhino.org), Traffic (www.traffic.org) and ENV (Education for Nature-Vietnam; www.envietnam.org). Market research found that wealthy businessmen from Hanoi and HCMC were the main consumers. As these people had little global environmental awareness, Chi promoted the slogan ‘The most charismatic and successful men create their own good fortune’ (the inference being rather than use rhino horn to prove their wealth or status). Other public education efforts have sought to reinforce the fact that rhino horn has no beneficial medical properties. However, progress is slow; a 2015 survey found that 38% of Vietnamese still thought rhino horn could help treat diseases such as cancer and rheumatism. Rhino horn actually consists of a form of keratin, similar to fingernails. PanNature (www. Vietnam banned unprocessed timber exports in 1992, which has pro- nature.org.vn) is a duced a rise in the amount of forest cover. However, this has been bad Vietnamese NGO news for its neighbours, because it simply means Vietnam buys its tim- promoting solu- ber from Laos and Cambodia, where environmental enforcement is lax. tions to environ- mental problems. Hunting It occasionally Wildlife poaching has decimated forests of animals; snares capture and offers volunteer kill indiscriminately, whether animals are common or critically endan- opportunities. gered. Figures are very difficult to ascertain, but a 2007 survey by wildlife trade monitoring organisation Traffic estimated that a million animals were illegally traded each year in Vietnam. Some hunting is done by minority people simply looking to put food on the table, but there’s a far bigger market (fuelled by domestic and Chinese traders) for dac san (bush meat) and traditional medicine. For many locals, a trip to the country involves dining on wild game, the more exotic the better, and there are bush-meat restaurants on the fringes of many national parks. A 2010 survey by the Wildlife Conservation Society found that 57 out of 68 restaurants in Dalat were offering wild game (including civet, porcupine and wild pig). Attempts to curtail this trade at local and national level are thwarted by bribery, corruption and understaffing of the Forest Protection Depart- ment. ENV (Education for Nature-Vietnam) is a local NGO combating
the illegal wildlife trade by lobbying politicians and providing education- 475E Environm e nta l I s s u e s al programs in schools. It maintains files on restaurants offering bush ENV (Education meat and campaigns against the bear bile trade. for Nature- Industry & Pollution Vietnam; www. Vietnam has a serious pollution problem. In Ho Chi Minh City, the air envietnam. quality is punishing, while Hanoi is the most contaminated city in South- org) works to east Asia. Motorbikes are the main culprits, all running on low-quality foster greater fuel that has choking levels of benzene, sulphur and microscopic dust understanding in (PM10). Particulate (dust, grime) matter in Hanoi is around 150 micro- Vietnam about grams per cu metre, whereas the World Health Organisation recom- wildlife, and the mends a limit of 20. illegal consump- tion of products Water pollution affects many regions, particularly the cities and coast- from endangered al areas (where groundwater has become saline due to over-exploitation). animals. If you Manufacturers have flooded into Vietnam to build clothing, footwear see endangered and food-processing plants, but most industrial parks have no waste- animals for sale water treatment plants. The result is that discharge has caused biological or listed on a death for rivers like the Thi Van. Nationwide, only 14% of all city waste restaurant menu, water is treated. call its toll-free Toxic and industrial waste is illegally imported along with scrap for hotline use as raw materials for production and for re-export. Enforcement is (%1800 1522). lax, though some violators have been fined. Global Warming Vietnam is ranked as one of the most vulnerable countries in the world in the face of climate change, because rising tides, flooding and hurri- canes will likely inundate low-lying areas. The National Centre for Hydro-Meteorology Forecasting reported that 246 tropical storms affected Vietnam between 1961 and 2010. While there were three storms in 1961, the number was 10 in 2008. A sea-level rise of only a metre would flood more than 6% of the coun- try and affect up to 10 million people. HCMC already experiences serious flooding every month, and the Saigon River only has to rise 1.35m for its dyke defences to be breached. If monsoons worsen, similar flooding will create havoc in the vast deltas of the Red River. PARADISE IN PERIL Unesco World Heritage site Halong Bay is one of Vietnam’s crown jewels. A dazzling collection of jagged limestone karst islands emerging from a cobalt sea, its beauty is breathtaking. This beauty has proved a blessing for the tourist industry, yet cursed Halong with an environmental headache. In 2014, 1.8 million people cruised the karsts. In order to ac- commodate everyone, the authorities have ripped up mangroves to build coastal roads and new docks. Inadequate toilet-waste facilities and diesel spills from cruise boats have long contaminated the bay. A deep-water port in Hon Gai draws hundreds of container ships a year through an international shipping channel that cuts through the heart of Halong. The resulting silt and dust has cloaked the sea grasses and shallow sea bottom, making it a struggle for sea life to survive, and putting the entire marine ecosystem in peril. Even more alarming are the gargantuan Cam Pha coal mines and cement factory, just 20km east of Halong City, from which tonnes of coal dust and waste leak into the bay. There’s been some recent progress. Until 2012, untreated water was dumped into riv- ers and ended up in the bay, but a new treatment plant on the Vang Dang River has eased the flow of pollutants. And in November 2015 authorities suspended the cruise licences of over 200 boats which had failed to install oil waste separator filters.
476 E Environm e nta l I s s u e s In the Mekong Delta, the nation’s rice bowl, rivers up to 50km inland Vietnam is are seeing increased salinity. Near the mouth of the delta, salination of the world’s water supplies has been such that many families have switched from rice cultivation to shrimp farming. second-largest coffee producer. Ecocide: The Impact of War It’s a vital cash crop in the south- The American War witnessed the most intensive attempt to destroy a west highlands country’s natural environment the world has ever seen. Forty years lat- where it’s known er, Vietnam is still in recovery mode, such was the devastation caused. as ‘brown gold’. American forces sprayed 72 million litres of defoliants (including Agent Orange, loaded with dioxin) over 16% of South Vietnam to destroy the Around 97% Viet Cong’s natural cover. of Vietnamese coffee is the Enormous bulldozers called ‘Rome ploughs’ ripped up the jungle floor, removing vegetation and topsoil. Flammable melaleuca forests were ig- cheaper, nited with napalm. In mountain areas, landslides were deliberately cre- caffeine-packed ated by bombing and spraying acid on limestone hillsides. Elephants, robusta bean. useful for transport, were attacked from the air with bombs and napalm. By the war’s end, extensive areas had been taken over by tough weeds The Vietnam (known locally as ‘American grass’). The government estimates that Association for 20,000 sq km of forest and farmland were lost as a direct result of the Conservation of American War. Nature & Envi- ronment (www. Scientists have yet to conclusively prove a link between the dioxin vacne.org.vn) residues of chemicals used by the USA and spontaneous abortions, still- acts as a bit of births, birth defects and other human health problems. Links between a clearing house dioxin and other diseases including several types of cancer are well for stories and established. projects related Chemical manufacturers that supplied herbicides to the US military to Vietnam’s paid US$180 million to US war veterans, without admitting liability. How- environment. ever, the estimated four million Vietnamese victims of dioxin poisoning in Vietnam have never received compensation. Court cases brought by the Vietnamese Association of Victims of Agent Orange (http://vava.org. vn) have so far been rejected in the USA. Journalists and other commentators have concluded that the Viet- namese government has been reluctant to pursue compensation claims for Agent Orange poisoning through the international courts because it has placed a higher priority on normalising relations with the USA. In December 2014, President Barack Obama authorised funds for a clean-up of a dioxin-contaminated former US base at Danang airport. The Vietnamese government continues to lobby for US assistance so oth- er affected areas can be decontaminated.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Survival Guide DIRECTORY A–Z. . . . 478 Visas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485 Volunteering. . . . . . . . . . . . 486 Accommodation. . . . . . . . . 478 Women Travellers. . . . . . . . 487 Children. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479 Work. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487 Customs Regulations. . . . . . . . . . . . . 479 TRANSPORT. . . . . . . 488 Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480 Embassies & GETTING THERE Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480 & AWAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 Food. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480 Entering Vietnam. . . . . . . . 488 Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 Internet Access. . . . . . . . . . 481 Land. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 Legal Matters . . . . . . . . . . . 481 River. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491 LGBT Travellers. . . . . . . . . . 481 GETTING AROUND. . . . . . . 491 Maps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491 Money. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482 Bicycle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491 Opening Hours. . . . . . . . . . 483 Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492 Photography. . . . . . . . . . . . 483 Bus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492 Post. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 483 Car & Motorcycle. . . . . . . . 493 Public Holidays. . . . . . . . . . 483 Local Transport. . . . . . . . . . 495 Safe Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 483 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495 Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484 Train. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496 Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485 Toilets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485 HEALTH. . . . . . . . . . . 498 Tourist Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . 485 LANGUAGE . . . . . . . . 503 Travellers with Disabilities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485
478 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Directory A–Z Accommodation ually. Discounts are often equipped, with US$12 to US$16 available at quiet times of often bagging you in-room Accommodation in Viet year. Some hotels (particu wi-fi, air-con, hot water and a nam is superb value for larly those on the coast) TV. Some places even throw in money. Big cities and the raise their prices in the a free breakfast, too. Towards main tourism centres have main tourist season (July the upper end of this category, everything from hostel and August) and for public minihotels – small, smart pri- dorm beds to luxe hotels. In holidays. vate hotels – usually represent the countryside and visiting excellent value for money. Few provincial towns, there’s Passports are almost budget places have lifts (eleva- less choice; you’ll usually always requested on arrival tors), however. be deciding between guest at a hotel. It is not absolutely Midrange hotels At the lower houses and midrange essential to hand over your end of this bracket, many of hotels. passport, but at the very the hotels are similar to budget least you need to provide a hotels but with bigger rooms Cleanliness standards photocopy of the passport or balconies. Flash a bit more are generally good and details and visa. cash and the luxury factor rises there are very few real exponentially, with contem- dumps – even remote rural Guesthouses & porary design touches and a areas have some excellent Hotels swimming pool and massage budget places. Communi or spa facilities becoming the cation can often be an issue Hotels are called khach san norm. (particularly off-the-beaten and guesthouses nha khach Top-end hotels Expect path where few staff speak or nha nghi. Many hotels everything from faceless English), but it’s usually have a wide variety of rooms business hotels, colonial places possible to reach an under (a spread of between US$20 resonating with history and standing. Perhaps because and US$60 is not unusual). chic boutique hotels in this of this, service standards Often the cheapest rooms bracket. Resort hotels are in Vietnam can be a little are at the end of several dotted along the coastline. Top haphazard. flights of stairs or lack a beach spots such as Nha Trang window. and Mui Ne all have a range of Prices are quoted in dong Budget hotels Guesthouses sumptuous places. Villa-hotels or US dollars based on the (usually family-run) vary (where your accommodation preferred currency of the enormously depending on the has a private pool) are becom- particular property. Most standards of the owner; often ing popular, while others even rooms fall into a budget the newest places are in the include complimentary spa price category and dorm best condition. Most rooms facilities. You’ll find ecolodges bed prices are given individ in this category are very well in the mountains of the north and around the fringes of BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE national parks. For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet Homestays authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/ vietnam. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as Homestays are a popular recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, option in parts of Vietnam. you can book online. As the government imposes strict rules about registering
479 are no safety seats in rent ed cars or taxis, but some SLEEPING PRICE RANGES restaurants can find a high The following price ranges refer to a double room with chair. bathroom in high season. Unless otherwise stated, tax is Breastfeeding in public is quite common in Vietnam, included, but breakfast excluded, from the price. but there are few facilities for changing nappies (diapers) $ less than US$25 (560,000d) a night D i rec to ry A–Z C h i l d ren $$ US$25 (560,000d) to US$75 (1,680,000d) other than using toilets and $$$ more than US$75 (1,680,000d) bathrooms. For kids who are too young to handle chop sticks, most restaurants also have cutlery. foreigners who stay over but pay close attention to The main worry through night, all places have to be any playtime in the sea, as officially licensed. there are some big riptides out Vietnam is keeping an running along the main eye on what strange things Areas that are well set up coastline. Some popular infants are putting into include the Mekong Delta; beaches have warning flags their mouths. Their natural the White Thai villages of and lifeguards, but at quieter curiosity can be a lot more Mai Chau, Ba Be, Moc Chau; beaches parents should costly in a country where parts of the central high test the current first. Seas dysentery, typhoid and lands; the Cham Islands; and around Phu Quoc Island are hepatitis are commonplace. the Bho Hoong village near more sheltered. Anti-bacterial hand gel Hoi An. (bring from home) is a great Kids generally enjoy local idea. Some specialist tour cuisine, which is rarely too companies and motorbike spicy: the range of fruit is Keep their hydration touring companies have staggering and spring rolls levels up and slap on the developed excellent relations usually go down very well. sunscreen. with remote villages and offer homestays as part of their Comfort food from home trips. (pizzas, pasta, burgers and ice cream) is available in Customs Taxes most places too. Regulations Most hotels at the top end Pack plenty of high-factor Enter Vietnam by air and the levy a tax of 10% and a ser sunscreen before you go as procedure usually takes a vice charge of 5%, displayed it’s not that widely available few minutes. If entering by as ++ (‘plus plus’) on the bill. in Vietnam (and costs more land, expect to attract a bit Some midrange (and even than in many Western more interest, particularly at the odd budget place) also countries). remote borders. try to levy a 10% tax, though this can often be waived. Babies & Infants Duty limits: Baby supplies are available ¨¨400 cigarettes in the major cities, but dry up Children quickly in the countryside. ¨¨1.5 litres of spirit You’ll find cots in most mid ¨¨Large sums of foreign Children get to have a good range and top-end hotels, currency (US$5000 and time in Vietnam, mainly be but not elsewhere. There greater) must be declared. cause of the overwhelming amount of attention they attract and the fact that almost everybody wants to HOTELS FROM HELL play with them. However, this attention can sometimes be We hear about a lot less hotel scam stories these days overwhelming, particularly but they do still occur occasionally; Hanoi is one city for blonde-haired, blue-eyed to take care in. This is what can happen: a hotel will babes. Cheek pinching, or worse still (though rare), get a good reputation and before you know it a copy groin grabbing for boys, are distinct possibilities, so keep cat place with exactly the same name opens down the them close. road. Dodgy taxi drivers work in tandem with these copycat hotels, ferrying unsuspecting visitors to the Big cities have plenty to fake place. Check out your room before you check keep kids interested, though in if you have any concerns. Some Hanoi hotels will in most smaller towns and also harass you to book tours with them. That said, rural areas boredom may set most guesthouse and hotel operators are decent and in from time to time. There are some great beaches, honest folk.
480 D i rec to ry A–Z E l ectr i c i ty Vincom Center, Ho Chi Minh BIDV Tower, 194 Ð Tran Quang City) Khai, Hanoi) Electricity Cambodian Embassy (Map Netherlands Consulate (Map p68; [email protected]; p319; %08-3823 5932; www. The usual voltage is 220V, 50 71A P Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi) hollandinvietnam.org; Saigon cycles, but you’ll (very rarely) Cambodian Consulate (Map Tower, 29 ÐL Le Duan, HCMC) encounter 110V, also at 50 p319; %08-3829 2751; camcg. New Zealand Embassy (Map cycles, just to confuse things. [email protected]; 41 Ð Phung p62; %04-3824 1481; www. Electrical sockets usually Khac Khoan, HCMC) nzembassy.com/viet-nam; Level accommodate plugs with two Canadian Embassy (Map p66; 5, 63 P Ly Thai To, Hanoi) round pins. www.canadainternational.gc.ca/ New Zealand Consulate (Map vietnam; 31 Ð Hung Vuong, p315; %08-3822 6907; www. 127V/220V/50Hz Hanoi) nzembassy.com; 8th fl, The Canadian Consulate (Map Metropolitan, 235 Ð Dong Khoi, Embassies & p315; %08-3827 9899; hochi@ HCMC) Consulates international.gc.ca; 10th fl, 235 Singaporean Embassy (Map Ð Dong Khoi, HCMC) p66; %04-3848 9168; www. Generally speaking, embas Chinese Embassy (Map p66; mfa.gov.sg/hanoi; 41-43 Ð Tran sies won’t be that sympa %04-8845 3736; http:// Phu, Hanoi) thetic if you end up in jail vn.china-embassy.org/chn; 46 Thai Embassy (Map p66;%04- after committing a crime. In P Hoang Dieu, Hanoi) 3823 5092; www.thaiembassy. genuine emergencies you Chinese Consulate (Map p319; org; 3-65 P Hoang Dieu, Hanoi) might get some assistance, %08-3829 2457; http://hcmc. Thai Consulate (Map p320; but only if other channels chineseconsulate.org; 175 Ð Hai %08-3932 7637; www.thai have been exhausted. Ba Trung, HCMC) embassy.org/hochiminh; 77 Ð French Embassy (Map p68; Tran Quoc Thao) If you have your passport %04-3944 5700; www.amba- UK Embassy (Map p62; %04- stolen, it can take some time france-vn.org; P Tran Hung Dao, 3936 0500; http://ukinvietnam. to replace it as some embas Hanoi) fco.gov.uk; 4th fl, Central Bldg, sies in Vietnam do not issue French Consulate (Map p319; 31 P Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi) new passports, which have www.consulfrance-hcm.org; UK Consulate (Map p319; to be sent from a regional 27 Ð Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, %08-3829 8433; consularen- embassy. HCMC) [email protected]; Australian Embassy (Map p70; German Embassy (Map p66; 25 ÐL Le Duan, HCMC) %04-3774 0100; www.vietnam. %04-3845 3836; www.hanoi. US Embassy (Map p70; %04- embassy.gov.au; 8 Ð Dao Tan, diplo.de; 29 Ð Tran Phu, Hanoi) 3850 5000; http://vietnam. Ba Dinh District, Hanoi) German Consulate (Map p319; usembassy.gov; 7 P Lang Ha, Australian Consulate (Map %08-3829 1967; www.ho-chi- Ba Dinh District, Hanoi) p315;%08-3521 8100; www. minh-stadt.diplo.de; 126 Ð US Consulate (Map p319; hcmc.vietnam.embassy.gov. Nguyen Dinh Chieu, HCMC) %08-3822 9433; http://ho- au; 20th fl, Ð 47 Ly Tu Truong, Japanese Embassy (Map chiminh.usconsulate.gov; 4 ÐL p70; %04-3846 3000; www. Le Duan, HCMC) vn.emb-japan.go.jp; 27 P Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi) Food Japanese Consulate (Map p320; %08-3933 3510; www. Eating out is a real highlight hcmcgj.vn.emb-japan.go.jp; 261 of travel in Vietnam. For Ð Dien Bien Phu, HCMC) much, much more on the Laotian Embassy (Map p68; subject consult the Food & %04-3942 4576; www.emba Drink chapter (p464). laohanoi.gov.la; 22 P Tran Binh Trong, Hanoi) Insurance Laotian Consulate (Map p315; %08-3829 7667; 93 Ð Pasteur, Insurance is a must for Viet HCMC) nam, as the cost of major Netherlands Embassy (Map medical treatment is prohibi p62; %04-3831-5650; www. tive. A travel insurance policy hollandinvietnam.org; 7th fl, to cover theft, loss and medi cal problems is the best bet.
481 Some insurance policies ciary. Not surprisingly, most PLANET OF THE D i rec to ry A–Z Internet A ccess specifically exclude such legal disputes are settled out FAKES ‘dangerous activities’ as of court. riding motorbikes, diving You’ll probably notice a and even trekking. Check Drugs lot of cut-price Lonely that your policy covers an Planet Vietnam titles emergency evacuation in the The country has a very seri available as you travel event of serious injury. ous problem with heroin and around the country. methamphetamine use and Don’t be deceived, these Worldwide travel insur the authorities clamp down are pirate copies. Some ance is available at www. hard. times the copies are lonelyplanet.com/bookings. OK, sometimes they’re You can buy, extend or claim Marijuana and, in the awful. The only certain anytime – even if you’re northwest, opium are readily way to tell is the price. If already on the road. available. Note that there are it’s cheap, it’s a copy. many plain-clothes police If you’re driving a vehicle, in Vietnam and if you’re ar you need a Vietnamese in rested, the result might be a surance policy (p494). large fine, a long prison term or both. Internet Access Police screenings, talks, parties and a bike rally. Internet and wi-fi is very Few foreigners experience widely available throughout much hassle from police In recent years two criti Vietnam. Something like and demands for bribes are cally lauded Vietnamese films 98% of hotels and guest very rare. That said, police featuring gay characters have houses have wi-fi, only in corruption is an everyday been released (p462). very remote places (such reality for locals. If something as national parks) is it not does go wrong, or if some In January 2015, a Law standard. It’s almost always thing is stolen, the police on Marriage and Family was free of charge, except in can’t do much more than passed which officially allows some five-star places. Many prepare an insurance report gay weddings (though their cafes and restaurants also for a negotiable fee – take an legal status has not yet been have wi-fi. English-speaking Vietnamese recognised). This has been with you to translate. welcomed as a positive step Connection speeds in by activists, and Vietnam towns and cities are normally LGBT Travellers now has a more progressive quite good, though not usual governmental policies than ly fast enough for gaming or Vietnam is a relatively hassle- many of its Asian neighbours. streaming. free place for gay, lesbian and trans travellers. There Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh Cybercafes are also plenti are no official laws prohibit City both have gay scenes, ful, usually costing 3000d to ing same-sex relationships, but gay venues still keep a 8000d per hour. or same-sex sexual acts in low profile. Most gay Viet Vietnam, nor is there much namese have to hide their Legal Matters in the way of individual har sexuality from their families assment. VietPride (www. and friends and a lot of stig Civil Law vietpride.com) marches ma remains. have been held in Hanoi and On paper it looks good, but HCMC since 2012. The Hanoi Gay travellers shouldn’t in practice the rule of law in event now takes place over expect any problems in Vi Vietnam is a fickle beast. Lo several days in late July/early etnam. Checking into hotels cal officials interpret the law August and includes film as a same-sex couple is any way it suits them, often perfectly acceptable, though against the wishes of Hanoi. it’s prudent not to flaunt your There is no independent judi sexuality. As with heterosexu al couples, passionate public EATING PRICE RANGES displays of affection are con sidered a basic no-no. The following price ranges refer to a typical meal (ex cluding drinks). Unless otherwise stated, taxes are Interestingly, the US included in the price. Ambassador to Vietnam, Ted Osius, is openly gay and Budget less than US$5 (107,000d) arrived with his husband Midrange US$5 (107,000d) to US$15 (323,000d) and baby when appointed in Top end more than US$15 (323,000d) December 2014. Utopia (www.utopia-asia. com) has useful gay travel information and contacts in Vietnam. The gay dating app Grindr is popular in Vietnam.
482 D i rec to ry A–Z M aps PRACTICALITIES so bargaining should be good-natured. Smile and Laundry You’ll find laundry places in all the main tourist don’t get angry or argue. In areas. Guesthouses also have cheap laundry services, some cases you will be able but check that there is a dryer if the weather is bad. to get a 50% discount or more, at other times this may Newspapers & Magazines Vietnam News is a propa only be 10%. And once the gandist English-language daily. Popular listings mags money is accepted, the deal include the Guide, which covers the whole country, plus is done. AsiaLife and The Word in HCMC and Live Hoi An in Hoi An. For national news, the website www.thanhniennews. Cash com is a good resource. The US dollar remains king Radio & TV Voice of Vietnam hogs the airwaves all day of foreign currencies and and is pumped through loudspeakers in many rural can be exchanged and used towns (and Hanoi). There are many TV channels and a widely. Other major curren steady diet of satellite/cable stuff. cies can be exchanged at banks including Vietcombank Smoking Vietnam is a smoker’s paradise (and a and HSBC. non-smoker’s nightmare). People spark up everywhere, though there’s an official ban against smoking in public Check that any big dollar places and on public transport. It’s not socially accept bills you take do not look too able to smoke on air-conditioned transport – so those tatty, as no-one will accept long bus journeys are usually smoke-free. them in Vietnam. Weights & Measures The Vietnamese use the metric You cannot legally take system for everything except precious metals and gems, dong out of Vietnam but you where they follow the Chinese system. can reconvert reasonable amounts of it into US dollars Maps For the last few years the on departure. dong has been fairly stable at The road atlas Tap Ban Do around 22,000d to the dollar. Most land border cross Giao Thong Duong Bo Viet ings now have some sort of Nam is the best available, Where prices on the official currency exchange, but the latest roads are not ground are quoted in dong, offering the best rates avail included. It’s available in we quote them in dong. Like able in these remote parts of bookstores including Fahasa wise, when prices are quoted the country. (which has shops in HCMC, in dollars, we follow suit. Hanoi and Danang) and costs Credit Cards 220,000d. There’s no real black mar ket in Vietnam. Visa and MasterCard are Vietnamese street names accepted in major cities are preceded by the words ATMs and many tourist centres, Pho, Duong and Dai Lo – on but don’t expect budget maps they appear respec ATMs are widespread in guesthouses or noodle bars tively as P, Ð and ÐL. Vietnam and present in virtu to take plastic. Commission ally every town in the coun charges (around 3%) some It’s also worth picking up try. You shouldn’t have any times apply. a copy of the highly informa problems getting cash with a tive Xin Chao Map of Hanoi, regular Maestro/Cirrus debit If you wish to obtain a the second edition was pub card, or with a Visa or Mas cash advance, this is possible lished in July 2015, which has terCard debit or credit card. at Vietcombank branches in tips and recommendations. Watch out for stiff withdrawal most cities. Banks generally You can order it at www. fees, however (typically charge at least a 3% com nancychandler.net. 25,000d to 50,000d), and mission for this service. withdrawal limits – most are Money around 2,000,000d; Agrib Tipping ank allows up to 6,000,000d The Vietnamese currency is and Commonwealth Bank up Tipping is not expected in the dong (abbreviated to ‘d’). to 10,000,000d. Vietnam, but it is enormously US dollars are also widely appreciated. For a person used, though less so in rural Bargaining who earns US$150 per areas. month, a US$1 tip is signif Some bargaining is essential icant. Upmarket hotels and in most tourist transactions. some restaurants may levy a Remember that in Asia 5% service charge, but this ‘saving face’ is important, may not make it to the staff. Consider tipping drivers and guides. Typically, trav ellers on minibus tours will pool together to collect a
communal tip to be split be and monochrome film can 483D i rec to ry A–Z O pen i ng Hours tween the guide and driver. be bought in Hanoi and HCMC, but don’t count on it Public Holidays It is considered proper elsewhere. to make a small donation at If a public holiday falls on a the end of a visit to a pagoda Cameras are reasonably weekend, it is observed on (roughly US$2), especially priced in Vietnam and all the Monday. if a monk has shown you other camera supplies are New Year’s Day (Tet Duong around; most pagodas have readily available in major Lich) 1 January contribution boxes for this cities. Vietnamese New Year (Tet) purpose. January or February – a three- Sensitive Subjects day national holiday Travellers Cheques Founding of the Vietnamese Avoid snapping airports, Communist Party (Thanh Lap Travellers cheques are a total military bases and border Dang CSVN) 3 February – the pain to cash in Vietnam. Few checkpoints. Don’t even think date the party was founded in banks will touch them these of trying to get a snapshot 1930 days and expect a long wait of Ho Chi Minh in his glass Hung Kings Commemorations if one agrees to. Try Asia sarcophagus! (Hung Vuong) 10th day of the Commercial Bank (ACB) or 3rd lunar month (March or April) Sinh Tourist (%08-3838 Photographing anyone, in Liberation Day (Saigon Giai 9597; www.thesinhtourist.com) particular hill-tribe people, Phong) 30 April – the date offices. demands patience and the of Saigon’s 1975 surrender is utmost respect for the local commemorated nationwide Opening Hours customs. Photograph people International Workers’ Day with discretion and man (Quoc Te Lao Dong) 1 May Vietnamese people rise ners. It’s always polite to ask Ho Chi Minh’s Birthday (Sinh early and consider sleeping first and if the person says Nhat Bac Ho) 19 May in to be a sure indication no, don’t take the photo. If Buddha’s Birthday (Phat Dan) of illness. Lunch is taken you promise to send a copy Eighth day of the fourth moon very seriously and virtually of the photo, make sure (usually June) everything shuts down you do. National Day (Quoc Khanh) 2 between noon and 1.30pm. September – commemorates the Government workers tend to Post Declaration of Independence by take longer breaks, so figure Ho Chi Minh in 1945 on getting nothing done Every city, town and village between 11.30am and 2pm. has some sort of buu dien Safe Travel Many government offices are (post office). open till noon on Saturday, All in all, Vietnam is an ex but closed Sunday. Opening Vietnam has a quite reli tremely safe country to travel hours are only included when able postal service. For any in. The police keep a pretty they differ from these stand thing important, express- tight grip on social order and ard hours. mail service (EMS), available we rarely receive reports in the larger cities, is twice about muggings, robberies Hours vary very little as fast as regular airmail or sexual assaults. Sure there throughout the year. and everything is registered. are scams and hassles in Banks 8am to 3pm weekdays, to some cities, particularly in 11.30am Saturday Private couriers such as Offices and museums 7am or FedEx, DHL and UPS are 8am to 5pm or 6pm; museums reliable for transporting doc generally close on Monday and uments or small parcels. some take a lunch break Restaurants 11.30am to 9pm GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE Shops 8am to 6pm Temples and pagodas 5am The following government websites offer travel adviso to 9pm ries and information on current hot spots: Australian Department of Foreign Affairs www.smart Photography traveller.gov.au British Foreign Office www.fco.gov.uk Memory cards are pretty Global Affairs Canada www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca cheap in Vietnam, which is NZ Foreign Affairs www.safetravel.govt.nz fortunate given the visual US State Department http://travel.state.gov feast awaiting even the am ateur photographer. Slide
D i rec to ry A–Z T e l ep h one484 Since 1975 more than the country. Just dial 171 or Hanoi, HCMC and Nha Trang 40,000 Vietnamese have 178, the country code and (and to a lesser degree in Hoi been maimed or killed by your number – most coun An). But perhaps the most this leftover ordnance. The tries cost a flat rate of just important thing you can do central provinces are par US$0.60 per minute. Many is to be extra careful if you’re ticularly badly affected, with budget hotels now operate travelling on two wheels on more than 8000 incidents in even cheaper web-call Vietnam’s anarchic roads – Quang Tri alone. services. traffic accident rates are woeful and driving standards While cities, cultivated You’ll also find many are pretty appalling. areas and well-travelled rural hotels have Skype and web roads and paths are safe for cams set up for their guests. Sea Creatures travel, straying from these areas could land you in the Local Calls If you plan to spend your middle of danger. Never time swimming, snorkelling touch any rockets, artillery Phone numbers in Hanoi, and scuba-diving, familiarise shells, mortars, mines or HCMC and Haiphong have yourself with the various haz other relics of war you may eight digits. Elsewhere ards. The list of dangerous come across. Such objects around the country phone sea creatures includes jelly can remain lethal for dec numbers have seven digits. fish, stonefish, scorpion fish, ades. And don’t climb inside Telephone area codes are sea snakes and stingrays. bomb craters – you never assigned according to the However as most of these know what undetonated province. creatures avoid humans, the explosive device is at the risk is very small. bottom. Local calls can usually be made from any hotel or res Jellyfish tend to travel in You can learn more about taurant phone and are often groups, so as long as you the issue of landmines from free. Domestic long-distance look before you leap into the the Nobel Peace Prize– calls are also quite reasona sea, avoiding them should winning International Cam bly priced. not be too hard. Stonefish, paign to Ban Landmines scorpion fish and stingrays (www.icbl.org), or visit the Mobile Phones tend to hang out in shallow websites of the Mines Ad water along the ocean floor visory Group (www.magin Vietnam has an excellent, and can be very difficult ternational.org) and Clear comprehensive cellular to see. One way to protect Path International (www.cpi. network. Call and data pack against these nasties is to org) which both specialise in ages are extremely cheap by wear plastic shoes in the sea. clearing landmines and UXO. international standards. The nation uses GSM 900/1800, Undetonated Telephone which is compatible with Explosives most of Asia, Europe and A mobile phone with a local Australia but not with North For more than three dec SIM card and a Skype/Viber America. ades, four armies expended (or similar) account will untold energy and resources allow you to keep in touch It’s well worth getting mining, booby-trapping, economically with anyone in a local SIM card if you’re rocketing, strafing, mortar the world. planning to spend any time ing and bombarding wide in Vietnam. A local number areas of Vietnam. When the International Calls will enable you to send texts fighting stopped, most of this (SMS) anywhere in the world ordnance remained exactly It’s usually cheapest to use a for 500d to 2500d per mes where it had landed or been mobile phone to make inter sage and make calls to most laid; American estimates at national phone calls; rates countries for between 3000d the end of the war placed can be as little as US$0.15 a and 6000d a minute. 3G the quantity of unexploded minute. data packages start at just ordnance (UXO) at 150,000 50,000d for 1GB. tonnes. Otherwise, you can call abroad from any phone in If you don’t want to bring your flash handset from ALL CHANGE home, you can buy a cheap phone in Vietnam for as little In January 2015, the Vietnamese government an as 300,000d, often with nounced that phone codes across the country (affecting 150,000d of credit includ 59 of Vietnam’s 63 provinces) were to change. However, ed. Get the shop owner (or this plan was not implemented, and by December 2015 someone at your hotel) to set existing codes were still in operation. up your phone in English or your native language. Three main mobile phone compa nies (Viettel, Vinaphone and Mobifone) battle it out in the local market, and they all
485 have offices and branches turning a profit. Don’t come acute, with traffic coming D i rec to ry A–Z T i me nationwide. here hoping for independent at you from all directions. travel information. Just getting across the road If your phone has roaming, in cities such as Hanoi and it is easy enough to use your Vietnam Tourism (www. HCMC is tough enough for handset in Vietnam, though it vietnamtourism.com), the those with 20:20 vision, so can be outrageously expen main state organisation, you’ll definitely need a sight sive, particularly if you use and Saigon Tourist (www. ed companion! the internet. saigon-tourist.com) are examples of this genre, but The Travellers With Dis Time nowadays most provinces abilities forum on Lonely have at least one such organ Planet’s Thorn Tree (www. Vietnam is seven hours isation. Travel agents, back lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) ahead of Greenwich Mean packer cafes and your fellow is a good place to seek the Time/Universal Time Coordi travellers are a much better advice of other travellers. nated (GMT/UTC). Because source of information than Alternatively, you could try of its proximity to the equa these ‘tourist offices’. organisations like Mobility In tor, Vietnam does not have ternational USA (www.miusa. daylight-saving or summer There are fairly helpful org), the Royal Association time. tourist offices in Hanoi and for Disability Rights (http:// HCMC. disabilityrightsuk.org) or the Toilets Society for Accessible Travel Travellers with & Hospitality (www.sath.org). The issue of toilets and what Disabilities to do with used toilet paper Visas can cause confusion. In gen Vietnam is not the easiest eral, if there’s a wastepaper of places for travellers with The (very complicated) basket next to the toilet, disabilities, despite the fact visa situation has recently that is where the toilet paper that many Vietnamese are changed for many nation goes (many sewage systems disabled as a result of war alities, and is fluid – always cannot handle toilet paper). If injuries. Tactical problems check the latest regulations. there’s no basket, flush paper include the chaotic traffic The government has relaxed down the toilet. and pavements that are visa exemption rules to routinely blocked by parked include more countries and Toilet paper is usually motorbikes and food stalls. reduced visa fees in a bid to provided, except in bus and stimulate tourism. train stations, though it’s That said, with some care wise to keep a stash of your ful planning it is possible to Firstly, if you are staying own while on the move. enjoy a trip to Vietnam. Find more than 15 days and from a reliable company to make a Western country, you’ll There are still some squat the travel arrangements and still need a visa (or approval toilets in public places and don’t be afraid to double- letter from an agent) in ad out in the countryside. check things with hotels and vance. If your visit is under 15 restaurants yourself. days, some nationalities are The scarcity of public now visa exempt. toilets is more of a problem Some budget and many for women than for men. Vi midrange and topend hotels Note that travellers using etnamese men often urinate have lifts. Note that bath a visa exemption cannot in public. Women might find room doorways can be very extend their stay at the end roadside toilet stops easier if narrow; if the width of your of the visa exemption period wearing a sarong. You usually wheelchair is more than and must leave Vietnam; have to pay a few dong to an 60cm you may struggle to they cannot return again attendant to access a public get inside. using a visa exemption within toilet. 30 days. So if you are from a Train travel is not really non-visa exemption country Tourist geared for travellers with (say the USA, Australia or Information wheelchairs, but open tour New Zealand) or you wish to buses are doable. If you stay longer in Vietnam than Tourist offices in Vietnam can afford to rent a private your permitted exemption have a different philosophy vehicle with a driver, almost period, or you wish to enter from the majority of tourist anywhere becomes instantly and leave Vietnam multiple offices worldwide. These accessible. As long as you are times, you will need to apply government-owned enter not too proud about how you for a visa in advance. prises are really travel agen get in and out of a boat or up cies whose primary interests some stairs, anything is pos Tourist visas are valid for are booking tours and sible, as the Vietnamese are either 30 days or 90 days. always willing to help. A single-entry 30-day visa The hazards for blind travellers in Vietnam are
486 D i rec to ry A–Z V o l unteer i ng VISA-EXEMPTED NATIONALITIES or 90 days depending on the visa you hold. Citizens of the following countries do not need to apply in advance for a Vietnamese visa (when arriving by either air You can extend your visa or land). Always double-check visa requirements before you in big cities, but if it’s done in travel as policies change regularly. a different city from the one you arrived in (oh the joys of COUNTRY DAYS Vietnamese bureaucracy!), 14 it’ll cost you around US$30. Myanmar, Brunei 15 In practice, extensions work most smoothly in HCMC, Belarus, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, 21 Hanoi, Danang and Hue. Japan, South Korea, Norway, Russia, Spain, 30 Sweden, UK Volunteering Philippines Opportunities for voluntary work are quite limited in Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Singapore, Vietnam as there are so Thailand many professional develop ment staff based here. costs US$20, a three-month Visas via an Embassy multiple entry visa is US$70. or Consulate For information, chase up the full list of nongovernment There are two methods of You can also obtain visas organisations (NGOs) at the applying for a visa: via online through Vietnamese embas NGO Resource Centre visa agents, or via a Vietnam sy and consulates around the (Map p70; %04-3832 8570; ese embassy or consulate. world. but fees are normally www.ngocentre.org.vn; Room higher than using a visa 201, Building E3, 6 Dang Van Online Visa Agents agent, and (depending, on Ngu, Trung Tu Diplomatic Com- the country) the process can pound, Dong Da, Hanoi), which This is now the preferred be slow. In Asia, Vietnamese keeps a database of all of method for most travellers visas tend to be issued in the NGOs assisting Vietnam. arriving by air, since it’s two to three working days Service Civil International cheaper, faster and you in Cambodia, or Europe (www.sciint.org) has links to don’t have to part with your and North America it takes options in Vietnam, including passport by posting it to an around a week. the Friendship Village (www. embassy. It can only be used vietnamfriendship.org), es if you are flying into any of Multiple-Entry Visas tablished by veterans from Vietnam’s five international both sides to help victims of airports, not at land cross It’s possible to enter Cam Agent Orange. The Center ings. The process is straight bodia or Laos from Vietnam for Sustainable Develop forward, you fill out an online and then re-enter without ment Studies (http://csds. application form and pay the having to apply for another vn) addresses development agency fee (around US$20). visa. However, you must hold issues through international You’ll then receive by email a multiple-entry visa before exchange and non-formal a Visa on Arrival approval you leave Vietnam. education. letter signed by Vietnamese immigration which you print If you arrived in Vietnam on Or try contacting the fol out and show on arrival (and a single-entry visa, multiple- lowing organisations if you then pay your visa fee). There entry visas are easiest to ar want to help in some way. are many visa agents, but range in Hanoi or HCMC, but KOTO (www.koto.com.au) we recommend you stick to you will have to ask a visa or helps give street children career well-established companies, travel agent to do the paper opportunities in its restaurants these two are professional work for you. Agents charge in Hanoi or HCMC; a three- and efficient: about US$50 for the service month minimum commitment is Vietnam Visa Choice (www. and visa fees are charged on required. vietnamvisachoice.com) Online top of this – the procedure support from native English takes up to seven days. International organisa speakers and they guarantee tions offering placements in your visa will be issued within Visa Extensions Vietnam include Voluntary the time specified. Service Overseas (www. Vietnam Visa Center (www. If you’ve got the dollars, vsointernational.org) in the vietnamvisacenter.org) Com- they’ve got the rubber stamp. UK, Australian Volunteers petent all-rounder which offers Tourist visa extensions offi International (www.australi a two-hour express service for cially cost as little as US$10, anvolunteers.com), Volunteer last-minute trips. and have to be organised via Service Abroad (www.vsa. agents. The procedure can org.nz) in New Zealand and take seven days and you can US-based International only extend the visa for 30
487 Volunteer HQ (www.volun improved as more Vietnam adventure sports specialists D i rec to ry A–Z W omen T rave l l ers teerhq.org), which has a wide ese people are exposed to will always need instructors, range of volunteer projects foreign visitors, but very but for most travellers the in Hanoi. The UN’s volunteer occasionally some ill- main work opportunities are program details are available educated locals may think an teaching a foreign language. at www.unv.org. Asian woman accompanying a Western male could be a Looking for employment is Women Travellers prostitute. a matter of asking around – jobs are rarely advertised. Vietnam is relatively free of Many Vietnamese women serious hassles for Western dress modestly and expose Teaching women. There are issues to as little body flesh as possi consider of course, but thou ble (partly to avoid the sun). English is by far the most sands of women travel alone Be aware that exposing your popular foreign language through the country each upper arms (by wearing a with Vietnamese students. year and love the experience. sleeveless top) can attract There’s some demand for Most Vietnamese women plenty of attention away from Mandarin and French too. enjoy relatively free, fulfilled the beach. lives and a career; the sexes Private language centres mix freely and society does Work (US$10 to US$18 per hour) not expect women to behave and home tutoring (US$15 in a subordinate manner. There’s some casual work to US$25 per hour) are available in Western-owned your best bet for teaching East Asian women trav bars and restaurants work. You’ll get paid more in elling in Vietnam may want throughout the country. This HCMC or Hanoi than in the to dress quite conserva is of the cash-in-hand vari provinces. tively, especially if they look ety, that is, working without Vietnamese. Things have paperwork. Dive schools and Government-run univer sities in Vietnam also hire some foreign teachers.
4 8 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Transport GETTING THERE Air Reap, Singapore, Tokyo and & AWAY airports in China including Hong Airlines Kong, Guangzhou and Nanning. Most travellers enter Viet- Noi Bai Airport (%04-3827 nam by plane or bus, but The state-owned carrier 1513; www.hanoiairportonline. there are also train links from Vietnam Airlines (www. com) Serves the capital Hanoi. China and boat connections vietnamairlines.com.vn) has Phu Quoc International Airport from Cambodia via the Me- flights to 17 countries, mainly (Map p390; www.phuquoc kong River. Flights, tours and in East Asia, but also to the airport.com) International rail tickets can be booked UK, Germany, France and flights include to Hanoi, HCMC online at lonelyplanet.com/ Australia. The airline has a and Singapore. bookings. modern fleet of Airbuses Tan Son Nhat International and Boeings, and has a good Airport (%08-3848 5383; Entering Vietnam recent safety record. www.tsnairport.hochiminhcity. gov.vn/vn; Tan Binh District) For Formalities at Vietnam’s in- Airports Ho Chi Minh City. ternational airports are gen- erally smoother than at land There are five international Tickets borders. That said, crossing airports in Vietnam. Others, overland from Cambodia including Hue, are officially It’s hard to get reservations and China is now relatively classified as ‘international’ but for flights to/from Vietnam stress-free. Crossing the have no overseas connections during holidays, especially border between Vietnam and (apart from the odd charter). Tet, which falls between late Laos can be slow. Cam Ranh International Air- January and mid-February. port (%058-398 9913) Located Passport 36km south of Nha Trang, with Land flights to Hong Kong, Chengdu Your passport must be valid and Seoul. Vietnam shares land borders for six months upon arrival in Danang Airport (Map p200; with Cambodia, China and Vietnam. Many nationalities %0511-383 0339) International Laos and there are plenty of need to arrange a visa in flights to Lao airports including border crossings open to for- advance. Pakse, Savannakhet and Vien- eigners with each neighbour. tiane; also Kuala Lumpur, Siem CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with con- tributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
489 Border Crossings overcharging is common at scams (eg serious overcharg- Tr a nsp o rt L a nd all borders except Bavet. ing) on the Vietnamese side. Standard times that foreign- Devious drivers have even ers are allowed to cross are Cambodian border cross- stopped in the middle of usually 7am to 5pm daily. ings are officially open daily nowhere to renegotiate the between 8am and 8pm. price. There are now legal money- changing facilities on the CHINA Transport links on both Vietnamese side of these There are currently three sides of the border can be border crossings, which can borders where foreigners are hit-and-miss, so don’t use deal with US dollars and permitted to cross between the more remote borders un- some other key currencies, Vietnam and China: Huu Nghi less you have plenty of time, including Chinese renminbi, Quan (the Friendship Pass), and patience, to spare. Lao kip and Cambodian riel. Lao Cai and Mong Cai. It is Avoid black marketeers, as necessary to arrange a Chi- Bus they have a well-deserved nese visa in advance. China reputation for short-c hanging time is one hour ahead. Bus connections link Viet- and outright theft. nam with Cambodia, Laos LAOS and China. The most popular Travellers at border cross- There are seven overland way to/from Cambodia is ings are occasionally asked crossings between Vietnam using international buses via for an ‘immigration fee’ of a and Laos. Thirty-day Lao visas the Moc Bai–Bavet border dollar or two. are available at all borders. crossing. When it comes to Laos, many travellers take CAMBODIA The golden rule is to try the long nightmare bus be- Cambodia and Vietnam to use direct city-to-city bus tween Vientiane and Hanoi share a long frontier with connections between the via the Cau Treo crossing, or seven border crossings. One- countries, as potential hassle the easier route from Savan- month Cambodian visas are will be greatly reduced. If you nakhet in southern Laos to issued on arrival at all border travel step-by-step using Hue in central Vietnam via crossings for US$30, but local buses expect transport the Lao Bao border crossing. VIETNAM BORDER CROSSINGS Cambodia CROSSING VIETNAMESE TOWN CONNECTING TOWN Le Thanh–O Yadaw (p305) Pleiku Ban Lung Moc Bai–Bavet (p355) Ho Chi Minh City Phnom Penh Chau Doc Phnom Penh Vinh Xuong–Kaam Samnor (p408) Ha Tien Kep, Kampot Xa Xia–Prek Chak (p401) Ha Tien, Chao Doc Takeo, Phnom Penh Tinh Bien–Phnom Den (p407) CONNECTING TOWN China VIETNAMESE TOWN Kunming Lao Cai Dongxing CROSSING Mong Cai Nanning Lao Cai–Hekou (p143) Lang Son Mong Cai–Dongxing (p122) CONNECTING TOWN Dong Dang–Pingxiang (p123) Attapeu Lak Sao Laos VIETNAMESE TOWN Sepon, Savannakhet Kon Tum, Pleiku Phonsavan CROSSING Vinh Muang Khua Bo Y–Phou Keau (p307) Dong Ha, Hue Cau Treo–Nam Phao (p161) Vinh Lao Bao–Dansavanh (p174) Dien Bien Phu Nam Can–Nong Haet (p161) Tay Trang–Sop Hun (p133)
490 0 200 km 0 120 miles Vietnam Border Crossings CHINA Hekou (CH) Lao Cai (V) Dongxing (CH) Mekong Dong Dang (CH) Mong Cai (V) Pingxiang (V) Tr a nsp o rt L a nd SOUTH Sop Hun (L) V I E T N A M CHINA Tay Trang (V) SEA HANOI LAOS Nam Xoi (L) Na Meo (V) Nong Haet (L) Nam Can (V) VIENTIANE Nam Phao (L) Cau Treo (V) Na Phao (L) River Cha Lo (V) Dansavanh (L) Lao Bao (V) THAILAND Phou Keua (L) Bo Y (V) CAMBODIA O Yadaw (C) Le Thanh (V) VIETNAM Trapeang Plong (C) Trapeang Sre (C) Loc Ninh (V) PHNOM Xa Mat (V) PENH Kaam Samnor (C) Bavet (C) Vinh Xuong (V) Moc Bai (V) Prek Chak (C) Phnom Den (C) HO CHI MINH Xa Xia (V) Tinh Bien (V) CITY (SAIGON) Gulf of LEGEND Thailand (C) Cambodia (L) Laos (CH) China (V) Vietnam International Boundary
491 Two daily buses also link Ha- CHINA GUIDEBOOKS CONFISCATED Tr a nsp o rt R iv e r noi with Nanning in China. Travellers entering China from Vietnam have periodically Passengers always have reported that Lonely Planet China guidebooks have been to get off buses at borders confiscated by border officials. The guidebook’s maps to clear immigration and show Taiwan as a separate country and this is a sensitive customs. issue. If you’re carrying a copy of Lonely Planet’s China guide, consider putting a cover on the book, removing Car & Motorcycle any potentially offensive maps and burying it deep in your bag. It is theoretically possible to travel in and out of Vietnam Mekong. Regular fast boats Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnam by car or motorbike, but only ply the route between Phnom airlines.com.vn) Excellent cover- through borders shared with Penh in Cambodia and Chau age of the entire nation. Cambodia and Laos. How Doc in Vietnam via the Vinh ever, bureaucracy makes this Xuong–Kaam Samnor bor- Bicycle a real headache. It is gener- der. Several luxury riverboats ally easy enough to take a with cabins run all the way Bikes are a great way to get Vietnamese motorbike into to the temples of Angkor at around Vietnam, particularly Cambodia or Laos but very Siem Reap in Cambodia. when you get off the main difficult in the other direction highways. In the countryside, (and the permits are costly). GETTING Westerners on bicycles are It’s currently not possible to AROUND often greeted enthusiastically take any vehicle into China. by locals who don’t see many Air foreigners pedalling around. Consult the forums on www.gt-rider.com for the Airlines in Vietnam Long-distance cycling is latest cross-border biking popular in Vietnam. Much of information. Vietnam has good domestic the country is flat or mod- PAPERWORK flight connections, with new erately hilly, and the major Drivers of cars and riders routes opening up all the roads are in good shape. of motorbikes will need the time, and very affordable Safety, however, is a concern. vehicle’s registration papers, prices (if you book early). liability insurance and an Airlines accept bookings on Bicycles can be transport- International Driving Permit. international credit or debit ed around the country on the Most important is a carnet cards. Note, however, that top of buses or in train bag- de passage en douane, cancellations are quite com- gage compartments if you which acts as a temporary mon. It’s safest not to rely on run out of puff (usually US$1 waiver of import duty. a flight from a regional air- for a short trip or US$1.50 port to make an international per hour for longer trips). Train connection the same day – travel a day early if you can. Bicycle Types Several international trains Vietnam Airlines is the least link China and Vietnam. A likely to cancel flights, but its Decent bikes can be bought daily train connects Hanoi fares are usually higher than at a few speciality shops in with Nanning (and on to rival airlines. Hanoi and HCMC, but it’s bet- Beijing!). The most scenic Jetstar Airways (%1900 1550; ter to bring your own if you stretch of railway is between www.jetstar.com) This budget plan to cycle long distances. Hanoi and Kunming via Lao airline has very affordable Basic cycling safety equip- Cai; there are currently four fares, and serves 16 airports in ment and authentic spare daily trains from the Chi- Vietnam. parts are also in short supply. nese border town of Hekou Vasco (%038 422 790; www. A bell or horn is mandatory – to Kunming. There are no vasco.com.vn) Connects HCMC the louder the better. railway lines linking Vietnam with the Con Dao Islands and with Cambodia or Laos. the Mekong Delta. Owned by, Rentals and code-shares with, Vietnam Readers have reported Airlines. Hotels and some travel agen- being able to book tickets for VietJet Air (%1900 1886; cies rent bicycles for US$1 to Chinese trains online using www.vietjetair.com) Serves 15 US$3 per day, better-quality www.chinahighlights.com/ domestic airports. models cost from US$6. china-trains; there’s a small Cycling is the perfect way to booking fee. explore smaller cities such as Hoi An, Hue or Nha Trang River (unless it’s the rainy sea- son!). There are innumerable There’s a river border cross- bicycle repair stands along ing between Cambodia and Vietnam on the banks of the
492 Transport Boat FARE’S FAIR? For most visitors one of the most frustrating aspects of travelling in Vietnam is the percep- tion that they are being ripped off. Here are some guidelines to help you navigate the maze. Airfares Dependent on when you book and what dates you want to travel. No price dif- ference between Vietnamese and foreigners. Boat fares Ferries and hydrofoils have fixed prices, but expect to pay more for the priv- ilege of being a foreigner on smaller local boats around the Mekong Delta and to places like the Cham Islands. Bus fares More complicated. If you buy a ticket from the point of departure (ie the bus station), then the price is fixed and very reasonable. However, should you board a bus along the way, there’s a good chance the driver or conductor will overcharge. In remote areas drivers may ask for four, or even 10, times what the locals pay. Local bus prices should be fixed and displayed by the door, but foreigners are sometimes overcharged on routes such as Danang–Hoi An. Rail fares Fixed, although naturally there are different prices for different classes. Taxis Mostly metered and very cheap, but very occasionally some taxis have dodgy meters that run fast. Xe oms & cyclos Fares are definitely not fixed and you need to bargain. Hard. the side of the road to get Most travellers never visit alternative to trains, and punctures and the like fixed. a Vietnamese bus station at costs are comparable. all, preferring to stick to the Boat convenient, tourist-friendly Deluxe buses are open-tour bus network. non-smoking and some even Vietnam has an enormous have wi-fi (don’t count on number of rivers that are at Whichever class of bus fast connections though). On least partly navigable, but the you’re on, bus travel in Viet- the flipside, most of them are most important by far is the nam is never speedy – reck- equipped with TVs (expect Mekong and its tributaries. on on just 50km/h on major crazy kung-fu videos) and Scenic day trips by boat are routes (including Hwy 1) due some with dreaded karaoke possible on rivers in Hoi An, to the sheer number of mo- machines. Earplugs and eye Danang, Hue, Tam Coc and torbikes, trucks and pedestri- masks are recommended. even HCMC. ans competing for space. Deluxe buses stop at most Boat trips are also possi- Bus Stations major cities en route, and for ble on the sea. Cruising the meal breaks. islands of Halong Bay is a Cities can have several bus Mai Linh Express (%098 529 must for all visitors to north- stations, and responsibilities 2929; www.mailinhexpress.vn) ern Vietnam. In central Viet- can be divided according to This reliable, punctual company nam the lovely Cham Islands the location of the destination operates clean, comfortable (accessed from Hoi An) are a (whether it is north or south deluxe buses across Vietnam. good excursion, while in the of the city) and the type of Destinations covered include all south, trips to the islands off service (local or long distance, main cities along Hwy 1 between Nha Trang and around Con express or non-express). Hanoi and HCMC, Hanoi to Dao are also popular. Haiphong, HCMC to Dalat, and Bus stations can look cities in the central highlands. Bus chaotic but many now have The Sinh Tourist (%08-3838 ticket offices with official 9597; www.thesinhtourist.com) Vietnam has an extensive prices and departure times An efficient company that has network of buses that clearly displayed. nationwide bus services, includ- reaches the far-flung cor- ing sleepers. You can book ahead ners of the country. Modern Deluxe Buses online. Look out for special buses, operated by myriad promotional prices. companies, run on all the Modern air-con buses oper- main highways. Out in the ate between the main cities. Local Buses sticks expect seriously un- This is the deluxe class and comfortable local services. you can be sure of an allocat- Short-distance buses depart ed seat and enough space. when full. Don’t count on many leaving after about Some offer reclining seats, 4pm. others have padded flat beds for really long trips. These sleeper buses can be a good
493 These buses and mini north–south journey, the 2015, and foreigners are now Tr a nsp o rt C a r & M otorcycl e buses drop off and pick up as HCMC–Mui Ne–Dalat–Nha permitted to drive in Vietnam many passengers as possible Trang route is popular. with an International Drivers’ along the route; frequent Permit (IDP). However, this stops make for a slow journey. If you are set on open- must be combined with local tour tickets, look for them insurance for it to be valid. Conductors tend to rou- at budget cafes in HCMC tinely overcharge foreigners and Hanoi. The Sinh Tour- The reality on the ground on these local services so ist (%08-3838 9597; www. has always been that for- they’re not popular with thesinhtourist.com) has a good eigners are never asked for travellers. reputation, with computer- IDPs by police, and no rental ised seat reservations and places ever ask to see one. Open Tours comfortable buses. However this may change with the new law. In backpacker haunts Reservations & Costs throughout Vietnam, you’ll No car rental agencies see lots of signs advertising Reservations aren’t required allow you to self-drive, so all ‘Open Tour’ or ‘Open Ticket’. for most of the frequent, car rentals come with a driver. These are bus services cater- popular services between ing mostly to foreign budget towns and cities, but it Fuel travellers. The air-con buses doesn’t hurt to purchase the run between HCMC and ticket the day before. Always Fuel costs around 20,500d Hanoi (and other routes) and buy a ticket from the office, per litre of unleaded gasoline. passengers can hop on and as bus drivers are notorious hop off the bus at any major for overcharging. Even the most isolated city along the route. communities usually have On many rural runs someone selling petrol by the Prices are reasonable. A foreigners are typically over- roadside. Some sellers dilute through ticket from Ho Chi charged anywhere from fuel to make a quick profit – Minh City to Hanoi costs be- twice to 10 times the going try to fill up from a proper tween US$30 and US$75, de- rate. As a benchmark, a petrol station. pending on the operator and typical 100km ride should be exact route. The more stops between US$2 and US$3. Hire you add, the higher the price. Try to book the next leg of your Car & Motorcycle The major considerations trip at least a day ahead. are safety, the mechanical Having your own set of condition of the vehicle, the Buses usually depart from wheels gives you maximum reliability of the rental agen- central places (often hostels flexibility to visit remote cy, and your budget. popular with travellers), avoid- regions and stop when and ing an extra journey to the bus where you please. Car hire CAR & MINIBUS station. Some open-tour bus- always includes a driver. Self-drive rental cars are es also stop at sights along Motorbike hire is good value unavailable in Vietnam, the way (such as the Cham and this can be self-drive or which is a blessing given ruins of Po Klong Garai). with a driver. traffic conditions, but cars with drivers are popular and The downside is that Driving Licence plentiful. Renting a vehicle you’re herded together with with a driver-cum-guide is other backpackers and The rules governing driving li- a realistic option even for there’s little contact with cences were changing in late budget travellers, provided locals. Additionally, it’s hard- there are enough people to er to get off the main ‘banana share the cost. pancake’ trail as open-route buses just tend to run to the ROAD DISTANCES (KM) most popular places. Some open-tour operators also Hoi An 716 depend on kickbacks from sister hotels and restaurants Sapa 1868 1117 along the way. Hue 830 138 1038 Buying shorter point-to- 545 point tickets on the open- Halong City 1653 911 380 823 tour buses costs a bit more 2104 658 but you achieve more flexi- Hanoi 1488 793 1097 165 bility, including the chance to 1889 take a train, rent a motorbike HCMC 310 942 1724 or simply change your plans. Dalat Nevertheless, cheap open- Hoi An tour tickets are a temptation Sapa and many people go for Hue them. Aside from the main Halong City Hanoi Note: Distances are approximate
494 Tr a nsp o rt C a r & M otorcycl e Insurance reasonably well maintained, Hanoi, HCMC and the but seasonal flooding can be If you’re travelling in a tourist a problem. A big typhoon can main tourist centres have vehicle with a driver, the create potholes the size of a wide selection of travel rental company organises bomb craters. In some remote agencies that rent vehicles insurance. If you’re using a areas, roads are not surfaced with drivers for sightseeing rental bike, the owners should and transform themselves trips. For the rough roads of have some insurance. If into a sea of mud when the northwestern Vietnam you’ll you’re considering buying a weather turns bad – such definitely need a 4WD. vehicle Baoviet (www.baoviet. roads are best tackled with com.vn) has a third-party a 4WD vehicle or motorbike. Approximate costs per fire and theft coverage policy Mountain roads are particu- day are between US$80 which includes liability for larly dangerous: landslides, and US$120 for a standard 87,000d. falling rocks and runaway ve- car, or between US$120 and hicles can add an unwelcome US$135 for a 4WD. Many rental places will edge to your journey. make you sign a contract MOTORBIKE agreeing to a valuation for the EMERGENCIES Motorbikes can be rented bike if it is stolen. Make sure Vietnam does not have an from virtually anywhere, you always leave it in guarded efficient emergency-rescue including cafes, hotels parking where available. system, so if something hap- and travel agencies. Some pens on the road, it could be places will ask to keep your Do not even consider some time before help ar- passport until you return the renting a motorbike if you rives and a long way to even bike. Try to sign some sort of are daft enough to be trav- the most basic of medical agreement, clearly stating elling in Vietnam without facilities. Locals might help in what you are renting, how travel insurance. The cost of extreme circumstances, but much it costs, the extent of treating serious injuries can in most cases it will be up to compensation and so on. be bankrupting for budget you (or your guide) to get you travellers. to the hospital or clinic. To tackle the mountains of the north, it is best to get Road Conditions & Road Rules a more powerful model such Hazards as a road or trail bike. Plenty Basically, there aren’t many of local drivers are willing to Road safety is definitely not or, arguably, any. Size matters act as chauffeur and guide one of Vietnam’s strong and the biggest vehicle wins for around US$20 per day. points. The intercity road by default. Be particularly network of two-lane highways careful about children on the The approximate costs is becoming more and more road. Livestock is also a men- per day without a driver are dangerous. High-speed, head- ace; hit a cow on a motorbike between US$5 and US$7 for on collisions are a sickeningly and you’ll both be hamburger. a semi-auto moped, between familiar sight on main roads. US$6 and US$10 for a fully automatic moped, or US$20 In general, the major and up for trail and road bikes. highways are paved and HIRING A VEHICLE & DRIVER Renting a car with a driver gives you the chance to design a tailor-made tour. Seeing the country this way is almost like independent travel, except that it’s more comfortable, less time-consuming and allows for stops along the way. Most travel agencies and tour operators can hook you up with a vehicle and driver (most of whom will not speak English). Try to find a driver-guide who can act as a trans- lator and travelling companion and offer all kinds of cultural knowledge, opening up the door to some unique experiences. A bad guide can ruin your trip. Consider the following: ¨¨Try to meet your driver-guide before starting out and make sure that this is someone you can travel with. ¨¨How much English (French or other language) do they speak? ¨¨Drivers usually pays for their own costs, including accommodation and meals, while you pay for the petrol. Check this is the case. ¨¨Settle on an itinerary and get a copy from the travel agency. If you find your guide is making it up as they go along, use it as leverage. ¨¨Make it clear you want to avoid tourist-trap restaurants and shops. ¨¨Tip them if you’ve had a good experience.
495 The police almost never HELMET LAW Tr a nsp o rt L oc a l T r a nsport bother stopping foreigners on bikes. However, speeding It is compulsory to wear a helmet when riding a motor- fines are imposed and the bike in Vietnam, even when travelling as a passenger. police now have speed ‘guns’. Consider investing in a decent imported helmet if you In any area deemed to be are planning extensive rides on busy highways or wind- ‘urban’ (look out for the blue ing mountain roads, as the local eggshells don’t offer sign with skyscrapers), the much protection. Better-quality helmets are available in limit is 50km/h. In cities, major cities from US$30. there is a rule that you can- not turn right on a red light. before going anywhere or Tours you’re likely to get stiffed. Honking at all pedestrians The quality of bottom-end and bicycles (to warn them Approximate fares are budget tours being peddled of your approach) is not road between 10,000d and in HCMC and Hanoi is often rage but an essential element 20,0000d for a short ride, be- terrible. You tend to get what of safe driving – larger trucks tween 20,000d and 40,000d you pay for. and buses might as well have for a longer or night ride, or a dynamo-driven horn. There around 40,000d per hour. Handspan Travel Indochina is no national seat-belt law. (%04-3926 2828; www.hand Travellers have reported span.com) Expert locally owned Legally, a motorbike can being mugged by cyclo driv- company that offers a wide carry only two people, but ers in HCMC so, as a general range of innovative, interesting we’ve seen up to six on one rule, hire cyclos only during tours to seldom-visited regions vehicle! This law is enforced the day in that city. When including Moc Chau and alterna- in major cities, but wildly leaving a bar late at night, tive destinations like Cao Bang in ignored in rural areas. take a metered taxi. the north. Other options include jeep tours, mountain biking, Spare Parts Taxi trekking and kayaking. Ocean Tours (%04-3926 0463; Vietnam is awash with Taxis with meters, found in www.oceantours.com.vn) Pro- Japanese (and Chinese) most major cities, are very fessional tour operator based in motorbikes, so it is easy to cheap by international stand- Hanoi, with Ba Be National Park get spare parts for most ards and a safe way to travel and mountain-biking options, a bikes. But if you are driving around at night. Average tar- great Thousand Island tour of something obscure, bring iffs are 12,000d to 15,000d Halong Bay, and excellent 4WD substantial spares. per kilometre. However, dodgy road trips around the northeast. taxis with go-fast meters do Buffalo Tours (Map p58; www. Local Transport roam the streets of Hanoi and buffalotours.com) Offers diverse HCMC, and they often hang and customised trips, including Bus around bus terminals. Only a superb Halong Bay tour by travel with reputable or rec- seaplane and luxury junk. Few travellers deal with city ommended companies. Exo Travel (www.exotravel.com) buses due to communication Offers a wide range of tours, issues and the cheapness Two nationwide compa- including cycling, trekking and of taxis, cyclos and xe om. nies with excellent reputa- community tourism. The 10-day That said, the bus systems tions are Mai Linh (www. Central Coast Cycle Ride be- in Hanoi and HCMC are not mailinh.vn) and Vinasun tween Hue and Nha Trang covers impossible to negotiate – get (www.vinasuntaxi.com). lots of great coastal scenery. your hands on a bus map. Sinhbalo Adventures (www. Xe Om sinhbalo.com) Specialises in Cyclo cycling tours to the Mekong The xe om (zay-ohm) is a Delta and beyond, plus trips to The cyclo is a bicycle rick- motorbike taxi. Xe means the Dalat region and southwest- shaw. This cheap, environ- motorbike, om means hug ern highlands. mentally friendly mode of (or hold), so you get the Grasshopper Adventures (www. transport is steadily dying picture. Getting around by grasshopperadventures.com) out, but is still found in Viet- xe om is easy, as long as you Well-planned cycling trips, from nam’s main cities. don’t have a lot of luggage. day-rides in the Mekong to an excellent seven-day Highlands & Groups of cyclo drivers Fares are comparable with Coast of Vietnam trip. always hang out near major those for a cyclo, but nego- hotels and markets, and tiate the price beforehand. many speak at least broken There are plenty of xe om English. To make sure the drivers hanging around street driver understands where corners, markets, hotels and you want to go, it’s useful to bus stations. They will find bring a city map. Bargaining you before you find them… is imperative. Settle on a fare
Tr a nsp o rt T r a in496 Cuong’s Motorbike Adventure onto the back of trains offer (http://cuongs-motorbike- a classy way of travelling Motorbike Tours adventure.com) Adventurous between Lao Cai and Hanoi: tours across the north organised those offered by Orient Specialised motorbike tours by experts with decades of Express Trains (%04-3929 through Vietnam are a bril- experience. Urals (solo and with 0999; www.orientexpresstrain- liant way to experience the sidecar) and Hondas are used; sapa.com) and Victoria Hotels nation and get off the main jeep and 4WD trips are also are renowned and very highways. Two wheels can offered. pricey, but there are at least reach the parts that four Free Wheelin’ Tours (Map p70; six other options including wheels sometimes can’t, by %04-3926 2743; www.free- Livitrans (www.livitrans.com; traversing small trails and wheelin-tours.com; 62 Ɖ Yen from US$52). traffic-free back roads. A Phu, Ba Dinh; h10am-7pm) little experience helps, but Based in Hanoi, offering some Livitrans also offers luxury many leading companies also great custom-made tours in carriages between Hanoi and offer tuition for first-timers. northern Vietnam. Hue (US$75) and Danang Mounting a bike to take on Moto Tours Asia (http://moto (US$85), as do many other the peaks of the north is toursasia.com; from US$90 per companies. Golden Trains one of Vietnam’s defining day) Enjoys a good reputation (%08-3825 7636; www.golden- moments and should not be for its trips in the north, with train.com) connects HCMC missed. bike options from scooters to with Nha Trang (US$35 to Royal Enfields. US$43 soft sleeper). Foreign guides charge considerably more than Train SLEEPERS local guides. Based on a A hard sleeper has three group of four people, you Operated by national carrier tiers of beds (six beds per can expect to pay from Vietnam Railways (Duong compartment), with the US$100 per person per day Sat Viet Nam; %04-3747 upper berth cheapest and for an all-inclusive tour that 0308; www.vr.com.vn), the the lower berth most expen- provides motorbike rental, Vietnamese railway system sive. Soft sleeper has two petrol, guide, food and is an ageing but dependable tiers (four beds per com- accommodation. service, and offers a relaxing partment) and all bunks are way to get around the nation. priced the same. Fastidious Hoi An Motorbike Adventure Travelling in an air-con sleep- travellers will probably want (Map p204; %090 510 1930; ing berth sure beats a hairy to bring a sleeping sheet, www.motorbiketours-hoian. overnight bus journey along sleeping bag and/or pillow com; 111 Ba Trieu) A professional, Hwy 1. case with them, although established operator with a fine linen is provided. selection of tours, most shortish Classes rides around the Hoi An area Costs (from US$50). Options include a Trains classified as SE are great off-road tour (US$125), and the smartest and fastest, Ticket prices vary depending trips to Danang, Hue and a Co Tu while those referred to as TN on the train; the fastest trains minority village are also offered. are slower and older. are more expensive. Children Well-maintained classic-looking under two are free; those Minsk bikes are used, either self- There are four main tick- between two and nine years drive or with driver. et classes: hard seat, soft of age pay 50% of adult fare. Explore Indochina (%09-1309 seat, hard sleeper and soft There are no discounts on 3159; www.exploreindochina. sleeper. These are also split the Hanoi–Lao Cai route. com) Using vintage Ural or into air-con and non-air-con Minsk bikes, these tours are options. Presently, air-con Freight expertly coordinated. The Karst is only available on the Away trip (from US$1240) is faster express trains. Some Bicycles and motorbikes a seven-day adventure around SE trains now have wi-fi must travel in freight car northeast Vietnam. (though connection speeds, riages, which will cost around Offroad Vietnam (%04-3926 like Vietnamese trains, are 375,000d for a typical over- 3433; www.offroadvietnam. not the quickest). Hard-seat night trip. Sometimes it’s com) An experienced, well- class is usually packed and not possible to travel on the organised operator which offers tolerable for day travel, but same train as your bike, so three types of trips: fully guided expect plenty of cigarette remember to make a note of (all-inclusive), semi-guided (you smoke. the train it’s on and when it is and a guide), and self-guided expected to arrive. (DIY) trips across northern and PRIVATE CARRIAGES central Vietnam, mainly using Comfortable, even luxurious Reservations Honda bikes. The Ha Giang tours private carriages tagged (US$1192 for an eight-day tour) You can can buy tickets in really get you off the beaten advance from Vietnam Rail- track. ways’ booking site (http:// dsvn.vn), however at the time
497Tr a nsp o rt T r a in REUNIFICATION EXPRESS Construction of the 1726km-long Hanoi–Saigon railway, the Transindochinois, began in 1899 and was completed in 1936. In the late 1930s, the trip from Hanoi to Saigon took 40 hours and 20 minutes at an average speed of 43km/h. During WWII the Japanese made extensive use of the rail system, resulting in Viet Minh sabotage on the ground and US bombing from the air. After WWII, efforts were made to repair the Transindochinois, major parts of which were either damaged or had become overgrown. During the Franco–Viet Minh War (1946–54), the Viet Minh again engaged in sabotage against the rail system. At night the Viet Minh made off with rails to create a 300km network of tracks (between Ninh Hoa and Danang) in an area wholly under their control – the French quickly responded with their own sabotage. In the late 1950s the South, with US funding, reconstructed the 1041km track between Sai- gon and Hue. But between 1961 and 1964 alone, 795 Viet Cong (VC) attacks were launched on the rail system, forcing the abandonment of large sections of track (including the Dalat spur). By 1960, North Vietnam had repaired 1000km of track, mostly between Hanoi and China. During the US air war against the North, the northern rail network was repeatedly bombed. Even now, clusters of bomb craters can be seen around virtually every rail bridge and train station in the north. Following reunification in 1975, the government immediately set about re-establishing the Hanoi–Ho Chi Minh City rail link as a symbol of Vietnamese unity. By the time the Reunification Express trains were inaugurated on 31 December 1976, 1334 bridges, 27 tunnels, 158 stations and 1370 shunts (switches) had been repaired. Today, the Reunification Express chugs along only slightly faster than the trains did in the 1930s, at an average speed of 50km/h. Chronic under-investment means that it’s still mainly a single-track line, and carries less than 1% of all north–south freight. Plans for a massive overhaul of the rail system to create a high-speed network have been shelved, but a gradual upgrade of the network is ongoing and it’s hoped that this will raise maximum speeds up towards 90km/h by 2020. of research only Vietnamese (www.vietnamimpressive. Safety credit cards were accepted. com) is another dependable However, you can book online private booking agent and will Petty crime can be a prob- using the travel agency Bao deliver tickets to your hotel lem on Vietnamese trains. Lau (www.baolau.vn), which in Vietnam, free of charge (or Thieves can try to grab stuff has an efficient website, de- can send them abroad for as trains pull out of stations. tails seat and sleeper-berth a fee). Always keep your bag nearby availability, and accepts and lock or tie it to some- international cards. E-tickets Many travel agencies, thing, especially at night. are emailed to you; there’s hotels and cafes will also buy a 40,000d commission per you train tickets for a small Schedules ticket. commission. Many Reunification Express You can reserve seats/ Routes trains depart from Hanoi berths on long trips 60 to 90 and HCMC every day. Train days in advance (fewer on Aside from the main HCMC– schedules change frequently, shorter trips). Most of the Hanoi run, three rail-spur so check departure times on time you can book train tick- lines link Hanoi with the other the Vietnam Railways website, ets a day or two ahead with- parts of northern Vietnam. Bao Lau’s website or www. out a problem, except during One runs east to the port city seat61.com, the international peak holiday times. But for of Haiphong. A second heads train website. sleeping berths, it’s wise to northeast to Lang Son and book a week or more before continues across the border A bare-bones train sched- the date of departure. to Nanning, China. A third ule operates during the Tet runs northwest to Lao Cai festival, when most trains Schedules, fares, informa- (for trains on to Kunming, are suspended for nine days, tion and advance bookings China). beginning four days before are available on Bao Lau’s Tet and continuing for four website. Vietnam Impressive ‘Fast’ trains between Ha- days afterwards. noi and HCMC take between 32 and 36 hours.
498 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Health Health issues (and the qual- Insurance ¨¨antibacterial cream, eg ity of medical facilities) can mupirocin vary enormously depending Even if you are fit and ¨¨antifungal treatments on where you are in Viet- healthy, don’t travel without for thrush and tinea, eg nam. The major cities are health insurance – acci- clotrimazole or fluconazole generally not high risk and dents do happen. If your ¨¨antihistamines for have good facilities, though health insurance doesn’t allergies, eg cetirizine for rural areas are another cover you for medical ex- daytime and promethazine matter. penses abroad, get extra for night insurance – check our ¨¨antiseptic for cuts and Travellers tend to worry website (www.lonelyplanet. scrapes, eg iodine solution about contracting infectious com) for more information. such as Betadine diseases in Vietnam, but Emergency evacuation ¨¨DEET-based insect serious illnesses are rare. is expensive – bills of repellent Accidental injury (especially US$100,000 are not un- ¨¨diarrhoea ‘stopper’, eg traffic accidents) account known – so make sure your loperamide for most life-threatening policy covers this. ¨¨first-aid items, such as problems. That said, a bout scissors, plasters (such of sickness is a relatively Required as Band-Aids), bandages, common thing. The following Vaccinations gauze, safety pins and advice is a general guide tweezers only. The only vaccination ¨¨paracetamol or ibuprofen required by international for pain BEFORE YOU GO regulations is yellow fever. ¨¨steroid cream for Proof of vaccination will allergic/itchy rashes, eg 1% ¨¨Pack any medications in only be required if you have hydrocortisone clearly labelled containers. visited a country in the ¨¨sunscreen ¨¨Bring a letter from your yellow-fever zone within six doctor describing your days of entering Vietnam. Websites medical conditions and medications. Most vaccines don’t There’s a wealth of travel- ¨¨If carrying syringes or produce immunity until at health advice on the internet. needles, have a physician’s least two weeks after they’re www.who.int/ith Publishes letter documenting their given, so visit a doctor a superb book called Inter medical necessity. four to eight weeks before national Travel & Health, which ¨¨If you have a heart d eparture. is a vailable free online. condition, bring a copy of a www.cdc.gov Good general recent ECG. Medical Checklist information. ¨¨Bring extra supplies of any www.travelhealthpro.org.uk regular medication (in case Recommended, but not ex- Useful health advice. of loss or theft). haustive, items for a personal medical kit:
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